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</pre>

    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <h1>
      Practical Suggestions<br>
      <i>for</i><br>
       Mother and Housewife
    </h1>
    <center>
      <p>
        &nbsp;
      </p><b>By MARION MILLS MILLER, Litt D.</b>
    </center>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <center>
      <b>Edited by THEODORE WATERS</b>
    </center>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <h2>
      Contents
    </h2>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch01">CHAPTER I</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE SINGLE WOMAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Her Freedom. Culture a desideratum in her choice of work.
      Daughters as assistants of their fathers. In law. In
      medicine. As scientific farmers. Preparation for speaking or
      writing. Steps in the career of a journalist. The editor. The
      Advertising writer. The illustrator. Designing book covers.
      Patterns.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch02">CHAPTER II</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE SINGLE WOMAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Teaching. Teaching Women in Society. Parliamentary law.
      Games. Book-reviewing. Manuscript-reading for publishers.
      Library work. Teaching music and painting. Home study of
      professional housework. The unmarried daughter at home. The
      woman in business. Her relation to her employer. Securing an
      increase of salary. The woman of independent means. Her civic
      and social duties.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch03">CHAPTER III</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE WIFE
    </center>
    <p>
      Nature's intention in marriage. The woman's crime in marrying
      for support. Her blunder in marrying an inefficient man for
      love. The proper union. Mutual aid of husband and wife.
      Manipulating a husband. By deceit. By tact. Confidence
      between man and wife.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch04">CHAPTER IV</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE HOUSE
    </center>
    <p>
      Element in choice of a home. The city apartment. Furniture
      for a temporary home. Couches. Rugs. Book-cases. The suburban
      and country house. Economic considerations. Buying an old
      house. Building a new one. Supervising the building. The
      woman's wishes.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch05">CHAPTER V</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE HOUSE
    </center>
    <p>
      Essential parts of a house. Double use of rooms. Utility of
      piazzas. Landscape gardening. Water supply. Water power.
      Illumination. Dangers from gas. How to read a gas-meter. How
      to test kerosene. Care of lamps. Use of candles. Making the
      best of the old house.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch06">CHAPTER VI</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      FURNITURE AND DECORATION
    </center>
    <p>
      The qualities to be sought in furniture. Home-made furniture.
      Semi-made furniture. Good furniture as an investment.
      Furnishing and decorating the hall. The staircase. The
      parlor. Rugs and carpets. Oriental rugs. Floors. Treatment of
      hardwood. Of other wood. How to stain a floor covering.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch07">CHAPTER VII</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      FURNITURE AND DECORATION
    </center>
    <p>
      The carpet square. Furniture for the parlor. Parlor
      decoration. The piano. The library. Arrangement of books. The
      "Den." The living-room. The dining-room. Bedrooms. How to
      make a bed. The guest chamber. Window shades and blinds.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch08">CHAPTER VIII</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE MOTHER
    </center>
    <p>
      Nursing the child. The mother's diet. Weaning. The nursing
      bottle. Milk for the baby. The baby's table manners. His
      bath. Cleansing his eyes and nose. Relief of colic. Care of
      the diaper.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch09">CHAPTER IX</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      THE MOTHER
    </center>
    <p>
      The school child. Breakfast, Luncheon, Supper. Aiding the
      teacher at home. Manual training. Utilizing the collecting
      mania. Physical exercise. Intellectual exercise. Forming the
      bath habit. Teething. Forming the toothbrush habit. Shoes for
      children. Dress. Hats.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch10">CHAPTER X</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      CARE OF THE PERSON
    </center>
    <p>
      The mother's duty toward herself&#8212;Her dress. Etiquette
      and good manners. The Golden Rule. Pride in personal
      appearance. The science of beauty culture. Manicuring as a
      home employment. Recipes for toilet preparations.
      Nail-biting. Fragile nails. White spots. Chapped hands. Care
      of the skin. Facial massage. Recipes for skin lotions.
      Treatment of facial blemishes and disorders. Care of the
      hair. Diseases of the scalp and hair. Gray hair. Care of
      eyebrows and eyelashes.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch11">CHAPTER XI</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
    </center>
    <p>
      The prevalence of good receipts for all save meat dishes.
      Increased cost of meat makes these desirable. No need to save
      expense by giving up meat. The "Government Cook Book." Value
      of the cuts of meat.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch12">CHAPTER XII</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
    </center>
    <p>
      Texture and flavor of meat. General methods of cooking meat.
      Economies in use of meat.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch13">CHAPTER XIII</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      RECIPES FOR MEAT DISHES
    </center>
    <p>
      Trying out fat. Extending the flavor of meat. Meat stew. Meat
      dumplings. Meat pies and similar dishes. Meat with starchy
      materials. Turkish pilaf. Stew from cold roast. Meat with
      beans. Haricot of mutton. Meat salads. Meat with eggs. Roast
      beef with Yorkshire pudding. Corned beef hash with poached
      eggs. Stuffing. Mock duck. Veal or beef birds. Utilizing the
      cheaper cuts of meat.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch14">CHAPTER XIV</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      RECIPES FOR MEAT DISHES
    </center>
    <p>
      Prolonged cooking at low heat. Stewed shin of beef. Boiled
      beef with horseradish sauce. Stuffed heart. Braised beef, pot
      roast, and beef a la mode. Hungarian goulash. Casserole
      cookery. Meat cooked with vinegar. Sour beef. Sour beefsteak.
      Pounded meat. Farmer stew. Spanish beefsteak. Chopped meat.
      Savory rolls. Developing flavor of meat. Retaining natural
      flavors. Round steak on biscuits. Flavor of browned meat or
      fat. Salt pork with milk gravy. "Salt-fish dinner." Sauces.
      Mock venison.
    </p>
    <h3>
      <a href="#ch15">CHAPTER XV</a>
    </h3>
    <center>
      HOUSEHOLD RECIPES
    </center>
    <p>
      Various recipes arranged alphabetically.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <h2>
      INTRODUCTION
    </h2>
    <p>
      What a tribute to the worth of woman are the names by which
      she is enshrined in common speech! What tender associations
      halo the names of <i>wife, mother, sister</i> and
      <i>daughter!</i> It must never be forgotten that the dearest,
      most sacred of these names, are, in origin, connected with
      the dignity of service. In early speech the wife, or wife-man
      (woman) was the "weaver," whose care it was to clothe the
      family, as it was the husband's duty to "feed" it, or to
      provide the materials of sustenance. The mother or matron was
      named from the most tender and sacred of human functions, the
      nursing of the babe; the daughter from her original duty, in
      the pastoral age, of milking the cows. The lady was so-called
      from the social obligations entailed on the prosperous woman,
      of "loaf-giving," or dispensing charity to the less
      fortunate. As dame, madame, madonna, in the old days of
      aristocracy, she bore equal rank with the lord and master,
      and carried down to our better democratic age the
      co-partnership of civic and family rights and duties.
    </p>
    <p>
      Modern science and invention, civic and economic progress,
      the growth of humanitarian ideas, and the approach to
      Christian unity, are all combining to give woman and woman's
      work a central place in the social order. The vast machinery
      of government, especially in the new activities of the
      Agricultural and Labor Departments applied to investigations
      and experiments into the questions of pure food, household
      economy and employments suited to woman, is now directed more
      than ever before to the uplifting of American homes and the
      assistance of the homemakers. These researches are at the
      call of every housewife. However, to save her the
      bewilderment of selection from so many useful suggestions,
      and the digesting of voluminous directions, the fundamental
      principles of food and household economy as published by the
      government departments, are here presented, with the
      permission of the respective authorities, together with many
      other suggestions of utilitarian character which may assist
      the mother and housewife to a greater fulfillment of her
      office in the uplift of the home.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch01"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER I
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE SINGLE WOMAN
    </h3>
    <p>
      Her Freedom&#8212;Culture a Desideratum in Her Choice of
      Work&#8212;Daughters as Assistants of Their Fathers&#8212;In
      Law&#8212;In Medicine&#8212;As Scientific
      Farmers&#8212;Preparation for Speaking or Writing&#8212;Steps
      in the Career of a Journalist&#8212;The Editor&#8212;The
      Advertising Writer&#8212;The Illustrator&#8212;Designing Book
      Covers&#8212;Patterns.
    </p>
    <pre>
      She, keeping green
  Love's lilies for the one unseen,
  Counselling but her woman's heart,
  Chose in all ways the better part.
      BENJAMIN HATHAWAY&#8212;<i>By the Fireside.</i>
</pre>
    <p>
      The question of celibacy is too large and complicated to be
      here discussed in its moral and sociological aspects. It is a
      condition that confronts us, must be accepted, and the best
      made of it. Whether by economic compulsion or personal
      preference, it is a fact that a large number of American men
      remain bachelors, and a corresponding number of American
      women content themselves with a life of "single blessedness."
      It is a tendency of modern life that marriage be deferred
      more and more to a later period of maturity. Accordingly the
      period of spinsterhood is an important one for consideration.
      It is a question of individual mental attitude whether the
      period be viewed by the single woman as a preparation for
      possible marriage, or as the determining of a permanent
      condition of life. In either case the problem before her is
      to choose, like Mr. Hathaway's heroine, "the better part."
    </p>
    <p>
      The single woman has an advantage over her married sister in
      freedom of choice, of self-improvement, and service to
      others. Says George Eliot of the wife, "A woman's lot is made
      for her by the love she accepts." The "bachelor girl," on the
      other hand, has virtually all the liberty of the man whom her
      name indicates that she emulates.
    </p>
    <p>
      To the unmarried woman, especially the one who may
      subsequently marry, education in the broad sense of
      self-culture and development is of primary importance. The
      question of being should take precedence over doing, although
      not to the exclusion of the latter, for character is best
      formed by action. But all her studies, occupations, even her
      pastimes, should be pursued with the main purpose of making
      herself the ideal woman, such an one as Wordsworth describes,
      one with:
    </p>
    <pre>
  "The reason firm, the temperate will,
  Endurance, foresight, strength and skill;
  A perfect Woman, nobly planned
  To warn, to comfort, and command;
  And yet a Spirit still, and bright
  With something of angelic light."
</pre>
    <p>
      It is an obviously true, and therefore a trite observation,
      that no one, woman or man, should consider that education
      (using the term broadly) stopped with graduation from school
      or college. But the statement that a grown person who has not
      settled down to some particular life work, such as is often
      the case with a young unmarried woman, should continue at
      least one serious <i>study,</i> will not be so generally
      accepted or acceptable. Yet in no other way may that mental
      discipline be obtained which is necessary to the mature
      development of character. Neglect to cultivate the ability to
      go down to the root of a subject, to observe it in its
      relations, and to apply it practically, will inevitably lead
      to superficial consideration of every subject, and even
      ignorance of the fact that this is superficial consideration.
      As a practical result, the person will drift through life
      rudderless, the sport of circumstance. She will act by
      impulse and chance, and be continually at a loss how to
      correct her errors. The shallowness with which women as a
      class are charged is due to the fact that, their aim in life
      for a considerable period not having been fixed by marriage
      or choice of a profession, they do not substitute some
      definite interest for such remissness, and so form the habit
      of intellectual laziness.
    </p>
    <p>
      The study which an unmarried and unemployed woman should
      pursue may be anything worthy of thought, but preferably a
      practical subject at which, if necessary, the woman is ready
      to earn her living. Many a family has been saved from
      financial ruin by a daughter studying the business or the
      profession of the father, and, upon his breakdown from
      ill-health, becoming his right-hand assistant, or, in the
      case of his death, even taking his place as the family
      bread-winner. In these days when farming is becoming more and
      more a question of the farmer's management, and less and less
      of his personal manual labor, a daughter in a farmer's family
      already supplied with one or more housekeepers may, as
      legitimately as a son, study the science of agriculture, or
      one of its many branches, such as poultry-raising or
      dairying, and with as certain a prospect of success. Ample
      literature of the most practical and authoritative nature on
      every phase of farming may be secured from the Department of
      Agriculture at Washington, and the various State universities
      offer special mid-winter courses in agriculture available for
      any one with a common-school education, as well as send
      lecturers to the farmer's institutes throughout the State.
    </p>
    <p>
      To give examples of women who have made notable successes at
      farming and its allied industries would be invidious, since
      there are so many of them.
    </p>
    <p>
      Studies that look to the possibility of the student becoming
      a teacher are preeminent in the development of mentality. The
      science of psychology is the foundation of the art of
      pedagogy, and every woman, particularly one who may some day
      be required to teach, should know the operations of the mind,
      how it receives, retains, and may best apply knowledge. An
      essential companion of this study is physiology, the science
      of the nature and functions of the bodily organs, together
      with its corollary, hygiene, the care of the health. From
      ancient times psychology and physiology have been considered
      as equally associated and of prime importance. "A sound mind
      in a sound body" is an old Latin proverb. The need of every
      one to "know himself," both in mind and body, was taught by
      the earliest "Wise Men" of Greece. The Roman emperor Tiberius
      said that any one who had reached the age of thirty in
      ignorance of his physical constitution was a fool, a thought
      that has been modernized, with an unnecessary extension of
      the age, into the proverb, "At forty a man is either a fool
      or a physician."
    </p>
    <p>
      The study of psychology is a basis for every employment or
      activity which has to deal with enlightenment or persuasion
      of the public. The person who would like to become a speaker
      or writer needs to begin with it rather than with the study
      of elocution or rhetoric. The first thing essential for him
      to know is himself; the second, his hearers or
      readers&#8212;what is the order of progress in their
      enlightenment. Even logical development of a subject is
      subsidiary to the practical psychological order. Formal
      logic, the analysis of the process of reasoning, is a
      cultural study rather than a practical one, save in criticism
      both of one's own work and another's. More cultural, and at
      the same time more practical, is the study of exact reasoning
      in the form of some branch of mathematics. Abraham Lincoln,
      when he "rode the circuit" as a lawyer, carried with him a
      geometry, which he studied at every opportunity. To the
      mental training which it gave him was due his success not
      only as a lawyer, but also as a political orator. Every one
      of his speeches was as complete a demonstration of its theme
      as a proposition in Euclid is of its theorem. Lincoln once
      said that "demonstration" was the greatest word in the
      language.
    </p>
    <p>
      Delineation of character is the chief element of fiction, and
      herein literary aspirants are particularly weak, especially
      the women, far more of whom than men try their hand at short
      stories and novels, and who are generally without that
      preliminary experience in journalism which most of the male
      writers have undergone. It is not enough for a novelist to
      "know life"; he must also know the literary aspect of life,
      must have the imaginative power to select and adapt actual
      experiences artistically. Young women who write are prone to
      record things "just as they happened." This is a mistake.
      Aristotle laid down the fundamental principle of creative
      work in his statement that the purpose of art is to fulfil
      the incomplete designs of nature&#8212;that is, aid nature by
      using her speech, yet telling her story the way she ought to
      have told it but did not. This is his great doctrine of
      "poetic justice."
    </p>
    <p>
      The writing of children's stories is peculiarly the province
      of the woman author, and here, because of her knowledge of
      the mind of the child, she is apt to be most successful. The
      best of stories about children and for children have been
      written by school-teachers. Of these authors a notable
      instance was the late Myra Kelly, whose adaptations in story
      form of her experiences as a teacher to the foreign
      population of the "East Side" of New York will long remain as
      models of their kind.
    </p>
    <p>
      Journalism is a sufficient field in itself for a woman writer
      in which to exercise her ability, as well as a preparation
      for creative literary work. The natural way to enter it is by
      becoming the local correspondent of one of the newspapers of
      the region. In this work good judgment in the choice of items
      of news, variety in the manner of stating them, and logical
      order in arranging and connecting them should be cultivated.
      The writing of good, plain English, rather than "smart"
      journalese should be the aim. Stale, vulgar and incorrect
      phrases, such as "Sundayed," and "in our midst," should be
      avoided. There are two tests in selecting a news item: (1)
      Will it interest readers? (2) Ought they to know it? When by
      these tests an item is proved to be real news that demands
      publication, it should be published regardless of a third
      consideration, which is too often made a primary one: Will it
      please the persons concerned? This consideration should have
      weight only in regard to the manner of its statement. When
      the news is disagreeable to the parties concerned, it should
      be told with all kindness and charity. Thus the facts of a
      crime should be stated, who was arrested for it, etc.; but
      there should be no positive statement of the guilt of the one
      arrested until this has been legally proved. Many a publisher
      has had to pay heavy damages because he has overlooked, or
      permitted to be published, an unwarranted statement or
      opinion of a reporter or correspondent. But even though there
      were no law against libel, the commandment against bearing
      false witness holds in ethics.
    </p>
    <p>
      The woman at home may also become a contributor to the
      newspaper. Her first articles should be statements of fact on
      practical subjects, such as the results of her own or some
      neighbor's experiments in a household matter of general
      interest, or reminiscences of matters of local history that
      happen to be of current interest. Thus when a new church is
      erected, the history of the old one may be properly told.
      Here the amateur journalist may practise herself in
      interviewing people.
    </p>
    <p>
      After such a preparation as this, one may confidently enter
      the active profession of journalism as a reporter, preferably
      upon the paper for which she has been writing. Since in
      entering any profession opportunity for improvement and
      advancement in it is the first consideration, the young
      reporter should cheerfully accept the low salary that is paid
      beginners. There is no discrimination on account of sex in
      the newspaper world. Copy is paid for according to its amount
      and quality, regardless of whether it was written by a woman
      or a man. Women labor here, as elsewhere, under physical
      disabilities in comparison with men, and yet in compensation
      they have the advantage over men in their special adaptation
      to certain features of newspaper work, such as the
      interviewing of women, writing household and fashion
      articles, etc. There are more chances for this kind of
      special work in large cities, and here the aspiring newspaper
      woman may go, when she has proved her ability.
    </p>
    <p>
      Mrs. Ida Husted Harper, who stands in the front rank of
      newspaper women, has tersely stated the duties a woman
      reporter must undertake and the sacrifices she must make, as
      follows: "The woman who wishes to be a newspaper reporter
      should ask herself if she is able to toil from eight to
      fifteen hours of the day, seven days in the week; if she is
      willing to take whatever assignment may be given; to go
      wherever sent, to accomplish what she is delegated to do, at
      whatever risk, or rebuff, or inconvenience; to brave all
      kinds of weather; to give up the frivolities of dress that
      women love and confine herself to a plain serviceable suit;
      to renounce practically the pleasures of social life; to put
      her relations to others on a business basis; to subordinate
      personal desires and eliminate the 'ego'; to be careful
      always to disarm prejudice against and create an impression
      favorable to women in this occupation; to expect no favors on
      account of sex; to submit her work to the same standard by
      which a man's is judged."
    </p>
    <p>
      The salaries earned by women as reporters are, with a few
      notable exceptions, not large. As low as $8 and $10 a week
      are paid to beginners; from $15 to $25 a week is considered a
      fair salary, and $30 a week an exceptionally good one for a
      woman who has not received recognition as a thoroughly
      experienced reporter.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is from the ranks of newspaper women who have gone to the
      large cities and made a name for themselves as capable
      reporters that the editorial staffs of the magazines are
      recruited. As a rule they obtain their introductions by
      magazine contributions chiefly of special articles on
      subjects in which they have made themselves experts. The
      salaries of these positions range from $25 a week for
      assistant editors to $50 and upward for the heads of
      departments.
    </p>
    <p>
      Book publishers employ women of this class to edit and
      compile works upon their specialties. Quite a number of women
      in New York earn several thousand dollars a year each at such
      work, while continuing their regular editorial labors.
    </p>
    <p>
      Many newspaper women drift naturally into advertising
      writing, which is well-paid for when cleverly done. Since the
      goods chiefly advertised are largely for women, women have
      the preference as writers of advertisements. Then, too,
      manufacturers and advertising agents pay well for ideas
      useful in promoting the commodities of themselves or their
      clients. Here the woman at home may find out whether she has
      special ability as an advertising writer, by thinking out new
      and catchy ideas for the promotion of articles which she sees
      are widely advertised, and mailing these to the
      manufacturers. It is well if she have artistic ability, so
      that she may make designs of the ideas, though this is not
      essential.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is the advertising columns of the newspapers and
      magazines, even more than the reading matter, which give a
      demand for work in illustration. To the woman who has talent
      rather than genius in drawing, illustration and commercial
      art afford a far safer field, in respect to remuneration,
      than the making of oil-paintings and water-colors. If ability
      in drawing is conjoined with ability in designing and writing
      advertisements, the earnings are more than doubled. Since
      payment for the individual drawing is more customary than
      employing an artist at a fixed salary, illustrating and the
      designing of advertisements can be done at home. There are
      many young girls just out of the art-school who earn from $25
      to $50 a week by such "piece-work."
    </p>
    <p>
      Akin to this work is the designing of book-covers, for which
      publishers pay from $15 to $25 each.
    </p>
    <p>
      Of a more mechanical nature is making the drawings for
      commercial catalogues, and the prices paid are low, $9 a week
      being the rule for beginners. Designers of patterns, etc.,
      for various manufacturers receive a similar amount at first.
      They may hope, after several years of experience, to rise to
      $25 a week, or possibly $30 or $35.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch02"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER II
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE SINGLE WOMAN
    </h3>
    <p>
      Teaching&#8212;Teaching Women in Society&#8212;Parliamentary
      Law&#8212;Games&#8212;Book-reviewing&#8212;Manuscript-reading
      for Publishers&#8212;Library Work&#8212;Teaching Music and
      Painting&#8212;Home Study of Professional Housework&#8212;The
      Unmarried Daughter at Home&#8212;The Woman in
      Business&#8212;Her Relation to Her Employer&#8212;Securing an
      Increase of Salary&#8212;The Woman of Independent
      Means&#8212;Her Civic and Social Duties.
    </p>
    <p>
      Teaching is a profession that is particularly the province of
      the unmarried woman. The best teachers are those who have
      chosen it as their life-work, and have therefore thoroughly
      prepared themselves for it. A girl who takes a school
      position merely for the money that there is in it, expecting
      to give it up in a year or so, when she hopes to marry, is
      inflicting a grievous wrong on the children under her charge.
      There are other remunerative employments where her lack of
      serious intention will not be productive of lasting injury.
      Lack of preparation for teaching generally goes with this
      lack of intention, doubling the injury. Against this the
      examination for the school certificate is not always a
      sufficient safeguard, since many girls are clever enough to
      "cram up" sufficiently to pass the examination who have not
      had the perseverance necessary to master the subjects they
      are to teach, not to speak of that interest in the broad
      subject of pedagogy, without which the application of its
      principles in teaching the various branches is certain to be
      neglected. Enthusiasm in her profession, a whole-hearted
      interest in each pupil as an individual personality should
      characterize every teacher, for next to the mother, she plays
      the most important part in the development of the coming
      generation.
    </p>
    <p>
      There is a general complaint that the salaries of
      school-teachers are too low, measured by the rewards of
      persons of corresponding ability in other professions. When,
      however, the certainty of pay and the virtual assurance that
      the employment is for life if good service is rendered, are
      considered, together with the respect accorded the teacher by
      the community and the fact that her work necessarily tends to
      the cultivation of her mind, the lot of the school-teacher
      must be reckoned as one of the most favored. Americans are
      more prone than any other people to spend money on education,
      and this spirit is ever increasing, so that the
      school-teacher is more certain than the member of any other
      profession that she will be rewarded worthily in the future.
      The establishment of the Carnegie pension fund for retired
      college professors is an indication of this growing spirit,
      as well as the recent advance of the salaries of public
      school teachers in New York City and elsewhere, in
      recognition of the increase in the cost of living.
    </p>
    <p>
      To the bright woman who is interested in the study of civics,
      political economy, and sociology, there is opportunity to
      earn a living at home by organizing classes in these subjects
      among the club-women of her town. Teachers of parliamentary
      law are in especial demand. The organization of a mock
      congress for parliamentary practise is the most entertaining
      as well as the most improving play in which women can join.
      There is also a demand among women who seek an intellectual
      element in their recreation for instruction in the games of
      bridge-whist, whist, and chess. Bridge-whist is the most
      popular, largely because of the desire to win money and
      valuable prizes at the game. Then, too, a greater amount of
      time is spent at it than is legitimate for recreation. For
      moral reasons, therefore, the teaching of it cannot be
      recommended. Straight whist is also played occasionally for
      money, but this practise, happily, is rapidly becoming
      obsolete. Chess, except among professionals, is played purely
      for sport, and is therefore the best of games to study.
      Unfortunately there is very little demand for instruction in
      it by women; nevertheless, it is the best of all games for
      cultivating the analytical power of the mind, a faculty in
      which women, as a rule, are weak.
    </p>
    <p>
      This power may, with equal pleasure and greater profit, be
      gained by paying special attention, in the reading of books
      and magazines, to literary style and construction. The
      average reader assimilates only a small percentage of what he
      reads. The careful thought which the author puts into his
      manner of presentation, no less than into the matter, is
      appreciated by very few of his readers, and by these only to
      a limited extent. Especially is this true of fiction. If one
      wishes to become an author, he should first cultivate this
      power of criticism, always accompanying the study by
      exercises in reconstruction of faults in the author read.
      Thus, wherever a sentence appears awkward in expression, the
      reader should revise it; wherever there is a seeming error in
      the logical development of a subject, or the psychological
      development of a fictitious character, he should reconstruct
      it. Nothing is so helpful to a writer as self-criticism. Thus
      Mrs. Humphrey Ward has recently confessed that the happy
      ending of her "Lady Rose's Daughter" was an artistic error,
      false to psychology, her heroine being doomed to unhappiness
      by her character. After creating his characters, and placing
      them in situations where their individuality has proper scope
      for action, the author must let them work out their own
      salvation. A thoroughly artistic work is marked throughout by
      the quality of "the inevitable," and for this the reader
      should always be seeking. There is no surer indication of
      shallowness than the desire to read only about pleasant
      subjects and characters and events. It is akin to the habit
      of ignoring the existence of everything disagreeable in life,
      which Dickens has satirized in his character, Mr. Podsnap.
      And "Podsnappery" exists among women even more than among
      men, because of their more sensitive emotional nature. If
      women are to join with men in making the world better, they
      must not blink at the misery and vice about them, and the
      evil elements in human nature and society which produce
      these. To be good and brave is better for a grown woman than
      to be "sweet" and "innocent," in the limited sense of these
      terms. A woman, like a man, should, "see life steadily, and
      see it whole."
    </p>
    <p>
      The foundation of a critical habit in reading has a practical
      bearing, inasmuch as it is a direct training for the
      positions of book-reviewer and manuscript reader for magazine
      and book publishers. Since women read more than men, the
      woman's view of a manuscript is often preferred by
      publishers. Therefore there are more women than men in the
      position of literary adviser. These are paid salaries ranging
      from $25 to $50 a week. Manuscripts are read by the piece for
      from $3 to $5 each. Book reviews are paid for at all prices,
      from the possession of the book alone to the payment of a
      cent a word. It is best for the aspiring critic to practice
      herself on book reviews first. In these she can with profit
      display her power to analyze the artistic construction of
      books, and so develop her abilities as a manuscript reader.
    </p>
    <p>
      The knowledge of books and the ability to digest their
      contents are necessary to the making of a library worker, an
      employment which the great increase in libraries, through the
      benefaction of Andrew Carnegie and others, is offering to
      thousands of American women. The salaries are low, but in
      considering entering upon the work, weight should be given to
      the opportunities for literary knowledge and culture it
      affords and its refined surroundings. The making of a
      descriptive catalogue of the home library, using the card
      index system, forms an ideal test for the young woman who is
      uncertain whether she has the taste and ability required in
      this sort of work. To the student in the home, even though
      she intends to follow some other vocation, such as teaching
      or writing, such an inventory of her intellectual store-house
      will be invaluable. It matters not how small the library is,
      for "intensive cultivation" is as profitable in mental
      culture as in agriculture.
    </p>
    <p>
      Even such accomplishments as music and painting are most
      cultural when pursued as if the intention of the student were
      to teach them. Knowledge of technique and of the methods by
      which its difficulties are overcome is the foundation of all
      appreciation of art. The only true connoisseur is the one who
      can enter into the delight felt by the artist in creating his
      work. Exercise leads to invention. The ancients well said
      that the contortions of the sibyl generated her inspiration.
      Critics have been sneeringly defined as "those who have
      failed in literature and art," but this is not true of the
      greatest critics, who never carried their creative work to
      the point of success simply because they had found a better
      vocation in criticism before reaching such a point. What a
      loss to the world it would have been had Ruskin developed
      into a painter, even a great one, instead of the master
      interpreter and teacher of painting that he did become!
    </p>
    <p>
      Household employments, such as cooking, needlework, etc., as
      vocations for the unmarried woman, no less than the married,
      need only be mentioned here, as their appropriateness for the
      girl at home is obvious, and they are fully discussed
      elsewhere in this series. It should be suggested, however,
      that the greater leisure of the unmarried woman enables her
      to try experiments in these subjects while the married
      housewife is too fully occupied by the routine of her duties
      to undertake them. Indeed, if a woman become a notable cook
      after marriage, it is often a sign that she is not a notable
      wife or mother.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is an old saying that,
    </p>
    <pre>
  "My son's my son till he gets him a wife,
   But my daughter's my daughter all her life."
</pre>
    <p>
      By the common bond of sex, a daughter is her mother's natural
      companion in sympathy, however separated from her in
      distance. Therefore, when she lives at home, what a special
      obligation is there to be her mother's comfort and
      dependence! Even though she acquire greater skill in
      household affairs, she should still resign herself to the
      subordinate place of assistant.
    </p>
    <p>
      The thought that she is becoming useless is the chief dread
      of a woman who has been a managing worker all her life, and
      her daughter should carefully avoid bringing this to her
      mind, indeed, should so act that the ageing mother retains
      the management of the house, even though her labors diminish.
      In respect to the direction of children, the elder daughter
      should take a hint from the manner in which the
      school-teacher supplements rather than supplants the mother
      in her care of the young people, leading to a difference in
      the kind of regard which these feel for them. The sister
      should always consider herself simply as the eldest, most
      experienced of the children, and so the natural monitor of
      the group, and, when necessary, the mediator with the
      parents.
    </p>
    <p>
      In a similar fashion the unmarried woman should act toward
      her neighbors who are wives and mothers. In matters where the
      interests of children and households are of chief concern she
      should resign the leadership to the married women, and, after
      them, to the professional teachers. Religious, social, and
      civic matters, wherein as a church member and a citizen she
      is on an equal footing with wives and teachers, afford her
      ample scope for exercising her instinct for leadership.
    </p>
    <p>
      Every unmarried woman who lives alone should, whether or not
      she possess an income, have a vocation. Earnings and wages
      are not alone good in themselves, but are an additional
      gratification, in that they supply a proof that the earner's
      service is of worth to the world. Some day, when social
      conditions are so adjusted that economic competition is
      really free, and wealth cannot be obtained save by service,
      money will be a proper measure of standing in the community.
      It is all the more a duty now, both to herself, her class,
      and to society, that the woman who works should contend to
      the last cent for her part of the wealth that is created by
      the business in which she is engaged. Where her work is equal
      to a man's, she should contend for wages equal to his; where
      it is inferior, she should be willing to accept less; where
      superior, she should demand more. In these matters women are
      apt to be either too complaisant or too clamorous. They
      should first be sure that they are justified in their claims,
      and then, if right, be firm in their demands, and, if wrong,
      be resigned to abandon them. The law of supply and demand
      acting in the labor market allots wages between workers with
      natural justice&#8212;certainly more equitably than the
      interested opinion either of employer or employee.
    </p>
    <p>
      It will be seen that the woman in business needs to study the
      fundamental elements of political economy even more than the
      housewife. Books and magazines are filled with superficial,
      obvious advice as to the way in which women as employees
      should conduct themselves toward their employers and fellow
      workers, but rarely is there a hint given of the actual
      rights and obligations of these relations, upon which the
      proper conduct is based.
    </p>
    <p>
      Employment is a business contract between employer and
      employee, in which there is no legal or moral obligation for
      either party to exceed the terms. Owing to an over-supply of
      labor, wages may be exceedingly low, even down to the
      starvation point, but for this condition the employer, if he
      be not also a monopolist, is not responsible. Indeed, as
      employer, his presence in the labor market as an element of
      demand raises the market wage. In fact, it is only by his
      increasing his business that he can raise wages. If he pay
      more to his employees than he needs to, or is profitable for
      him, this increase is not real wages, but a gratuity,
      something no self-respecting person likes to take. Some other
      class in society created this condition, and it is this class
      that the low-paid workers should blame, and, as citizens,
      take measures against, not the employers. Indeed, they should
      consider these as their natural allies in making better
      economic conditions.
    </p>
    <p>
      Accordingly, the woman in business should have sympathy for
      her employer, who owing to the prevalent condition of
      shackled competition has troubles of his own. She should aid
      him by loyal, efficient work, thus, and only thus,
      establishing a moral claim upon him to recognize her loyalty
      in kind. Personal relations, except of this nature, should
      not be sought by the employee, particularly if she is a
      woman. Outside of the office or shop she may meet and treat
      her employer as a fellow citizen and member of society, under
      the common rights of citizenship and the proper social rules,
      but in business hours she should obey the strict ethics of
      business. Thus she may don what dress she will when her work
      is done, adopt all the eccentricities of fashion she pleases,
      but she should wear with cheerfulness, and even pride, the
      simple dress prescribed, for good and sufficient reasons, as
      her working costume. Even when no such regulations are made,
      her good sense and taste should lead her to adopt a modest,
      practical working dress, simple mode of arranging the hair,
      etc. This is always agreeable to customers, and it is by
      pleasing these she best pleases her employer.
    </p>
    <p>
      Stenographers and secretaries have a special obligation to
      keep sacred the confidences of their employers. If they find
      that in so doing they are made instruments in perpetrating
      frauds on other business men, or the community in general,
      they have no right to expose these. Their only proper course
      is to resign their positions, holding sacred, however, the
      knowledge gained while acting as employees. It is only when
      formally relieved of this obligation by legal compulsion to
      testify in court that they may reveal this knowledge.
    </p>
    <p>
      While it is the custom of an employer to demand references of
      the employee, and not give them for himself, the only safe
      course for a woman seeking employment is to look into the
      character of the man for whom she is to work, and the nature
      of his business. This she may do indirectly in the case of
      character, and directly in the case of nature of business. If
      the employer refuses to impart this, saying, "Your work will
      be to do whatever I ask you," it is a blind, and therefore
      dangerous contract into which you are entering, and you
      should withdraw from it in time.
    </p>
    <p>
      When an employee has proved her efficiency, and has seen that
      it is producing an amount of returns to the business of which
      she is not receiving her proportionate share, it is her right
      and duty to ask for an increase in wages. If she fails to
      receive this, she should investigate the conditions in the
      labor market of her class, and guide her action accordingly.
      If she finds that there is a demand for workers of her
      ability at the higher wage, she should again proffer her
      request to her employer, with a statement of this fact. If he
      still refuses the increase, she should resign her position,
      upon proper notice, and seek employment elsewhere.
    </p>
    <p>
      When the unmarried woman employs herself in free service for
      the public good there will be no need for her to contend for
      the proper returns, which will be the love and respect of the
      community, given her in full measure. In comparison with
      these rewards, the honors of club president and society
      leader, for which many women contend with a rivalry that
      surpasses in bitterness contests for political honors among
      men, are mean and empty. The words of the Master to His
      disciples, that he who would be first among them should be
      servant to his fellows, should be taken to heart by American
      women, before whom are opening new and vast opportunities for
      the display of pride and ambition no less than for modest,
      faithful service.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch03"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER III
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE WIFE
    </h3>
    <p>
      Nature's Intention in Marriage&#8212;The Woman's Crime in
      Marrying for Support&#8212;Her Blunder in Marrying an
      Inefficient Man for Love&#8212;The Proper Union&#8212;Mutual
      Aid of Husband and Wife&#8212;Manipulating a Husband&#8212;By
      Deceit&#8212;By Tact&#8212;Confidence Between Man and Wife.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      "Her very soul is in home, and in the discharge of all those
      quiet virtues of which home is the centre. Her husband will
      be to her the object of all her care, solicitude and
      affection. She will see nothing but by him, and through him.
      If he is a man of sense and virtue, she will sympathize in
      his sorrows, divert his fatigue, and share his pleasures. If
      she becomes the property of a churlish or negligent husband,
      she will suit his taste also, for she will not long survive
      his unkindness."&#8212;SIR WALTER
      SCOTT&#8212;<i>Waverley.</i>
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      Marriage is the crown of woman's life, a dignity that is all
      the more honorable because it is of general expectation and
      realization. There is a presumption that the unmarried woman
      has missed the central and significant reason for her
      existence, the perpetuation and nurture of the race, and that
      the burden is upon her for compensating society by other
      services for this lost opportunity. Marriage for a woman
      means attainment first and fulfilment after, the reward given
      in advance of labor, and therefore entailing a special moral
      obligation that it be justified in its fruits. Nature gives
      the future mother peace of mind, rest from doubt as to career
      and from responsibility as to breadwinning, in order that she
      may tranquilly devote herself to her special function as the
      maker of the home.
    </p>
    <p>
      The fact that in the normal home the wife is relieved from
      the necessity of earning the living of the home sometimes has
      the effect of making her careless about expenditure. The
      thoughtless wife, and here thoughtless means selfish, assumes
      that the problem of providing is "up to" the husband and
      takes no care to aid him in its solution. If the suggestion
      of her being a burden to him ever does cross her mind, she is
      ready to excuse herself by consolatory sayings such as "Two
      can live cheaper than one," the truth of which, though
      universal when every wife was a producer of such things as
      clothing that are now bought is now the case only in
      agricultural homes, and even there has lost a great deal of
      its force. Men do not marry now, as they once did, for
      economic reasons, but rather in spite of them, for the higher
      rewards of love and companionship of wife and children, and
      this the wife should recognize by giving her husband the
      things for which he has made his economic sacrifice. In the
      old days a man who did not marry paid for his liberty by loss
      of physical comfort and wealth. Thus Hesiod, one of the
      earliest Greek poets, in his Farmer's Almanac called "Works
      and Days," coupled the marrying of a wife with the purchase
      of a yoke of oxen and a plow as the first things needful in
      beginning to farm, and this in despite of the fact that he
      was a woman-hater.
    </p>
    <p>
      Now it is the woman who is tempted to marry for economic
      reasons, to be certain of material support while she
      exercises herself in those household avocations and social
      pleasures which constitute the main activities of women. This
      is a legitimate consideration only when the interest of the
      man is also taken into account. Marriage to a man whom she
      does not love is a crime for any woman; giving falsely the
      offerings of love for material things is harlotry even though
      legitimated by vows and ceremonies.
    </p>
    <p>
      On the other hand, marriage for love to a man who cannot
      support her is a sad mistake for a woman who is not able or
      willing to take the place of breadwinner, for such a union
      defeats its own purpose. Therefore, in kindness to the man as
      well as to herself, such a woman should satisfy herself that
      he can support her, not necessarily in "the style to which
      she has been accustomed," but in the style necessary for her
      to perform the duties of homemaker and mother. Those
      marriages are the happiest where a wife can also enter into
      sympathy with her husband's business ambitions in particular
      and ideals of life in general. Here she is peculiarly his
      helpmate. He can hire a housekeeper, but not a companion of
      his bosom.
    </p>
    <p>
      A girl properly reared will naturally be drawn to a man
      complementary to her in character&#8212;not "opposite," as is
      so often said. Opposition implies antagonism, which would be
      the ruin of home life. The term complementary implies
      similarity in the main elements of character with adaptable
      differences. Good qualities, such as strength and delicacy,
      may complement each other, but not evil and good qualities,
      such as brutality and tenderness. As Scott says in the
      quotation at the head of this chapter, a tender wife may suit
      the taste of a churlish husband, but only by not long
      surviving his unkindness. While such opposition may not
      result in actual death, it certainly leads to the demise of
      all that makes life worth living.
    </p>
    <p>
      A woman should not expect to find a perfect husband. Indeed,
      her chief usefulness to him will be in her strengthening his
      weak points, and cultivating his right inclinations until
      they are confirmed habits. Yet in this work she should
      realize the imperfections in herself, and respond to the
      similar aid he gives her by his example and suggestions.
      Mutual aid is the great bond of marriage, as it is of all
      human relations.
    </p>
    <p>
      Women, from their weaker condition, have from ages past been
      trained to gain their desires from men by indirection. In the
      worst form, this appears as deceit; in the best, as tact.
      Laying aside the moral aspect, deceit is always unwise in a
      wife, since, in time, it defeats its own end. Many a woman
      thinks that she is deceiving her husband, since she wins her
      points, when he thoroughly recognizes her machinations, and
      accedes to them without contest simply for peace in the
      household, acquiring a feeling of moral superiority to her
      which, though it may be tolerant, is nevertheless
      contemptuous. But when she employs loving tact, especially in
      the improvement of her husband's habits and traits, even
      though he realizes it, he is at heart grateful for it, and
      proud of his wife's superiority in these points.
    </p>
    <p>
      In those matters where the characters of husband and wife are
      strong enough to permit frankness, this should always be
      employed. In all the grave problems of life there should be
      perfect confidence between the pair who have taken the solemn
      vows of wedlock. Any third party that enjoys a superior
      confidence with one of them, whether relative or friend, even
      the pastor or family physician, is the man invoked against in
      the marriage charge, who "puts them asunder." Where unhappily
      the husband is irreligious and the wife is forced to seek
      confidential help and consolation of her spiritual adviser,
      she should strictly limit these to religious matters, else
      she will grow apart from her husband. George Moore, in his
      collection of stories entitled, "The Untilled Field,"
      presents the propensity of women in Ireland to run to the
      priest for guidance on every question, as the chief cause of
      their domestic tragedies. In America the family physician is
      as apt as the pastor to be made the recipient of such
      confidences, with evil results where he is not wise enough to
      advise that the husband is the proper person to whom the wife
      should go.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch04"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER IV
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE HOUSE
    </h3>
    <p>
      Elements in Choice of a Home&#8212;The City
      Apartment&#8212;Furniture for a Temporary
      Home&#8212;Couches&#8212;Rugs&#8212;Bookcases&#8212;The
      Suburban and Country House&#8212;Economic
      Considerations&#8212;Buying an Old House&#8212;Building a New
      One&#8212;Supervising the Building&#8212;The Woman's Wishes.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      <br>
       Of love, of joy, of peace and plenty: where,<br>
       Supporting and supported, polished friends<br>
       And dear relations mingle into bliss.<br>
       JAMES THOMSON&#8212;<i>The Seasons</i>
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      When husband and wife are truly mated, they form a
      co-partnership in the building of the home. In this work the
      man, occupied with his business, must leave a large part of
      the direction, even in material things, to the woman. And
      these material things are of primary consideration, as they
      are apt to be in every problem of life. The happiness of home
      is immediately and always dependent on the kind of a house
      used for dwelling and its equipment for utility and comfort.
    </p>
    <p>
      The first thing to be considered is the location of the home.
      The choice of a good neighborhood, from both social and
      sanitary viewpoints, is essential. Good neighbors are almost
      as necessary as good air and good drainage. Even before the
      children have come, it is a limitation on the function of a
      home for husband and wife to be forced to seek social life
      entirely outside the neighborhood. If charity (that is,
      loving, helpful associations) begins at home, it certainly
      does not stop at the threshold, or leap therefrom over those
      nearest us. The best citizens are those who take a human
      interest in the people of their street, or ward, or village,
      for influence in civic reform is dependent on neighborliness.
    </p>
    <p>
      Children are good citizens in this respect by nature. Limited
      to association with children of the neighborhood, they form
      an affection for their playmates, which may lead to good or
      evil results, as these playmates are moral or vicious in
      their tendencies. Therefore, at the formative period of
      character children should be guarded from the debasing
      influences of improper companions, as well as such
      institutions as saloons and low dance-halls which are
      generally found to be the local causes of bad neighbors.
    </p>
    <p>
      Of course, a neighborhood should be selected where there are
      good public schools, churches, and allied institutions for
      education and culture. It is always a loss to a child in this
      democratic country to be educated in a private school, and
      yet, especially in cities, careful parents are often
      compelled to resort to private instruction for their girls
      and boys because of the lack of refining influences in the
      public schools. This is why it is often better for families,
      when the father works in the city, to live in the suburbs,
      where, as a rule, the best public schools are to be found.
    </p>
    <p>
      But it may not be feasible to live out of the city,
      especially in the first years of married life, and therefore
      the home life must begin in an apartment. The same sanitary
      considerations that obtain in choice of a neighborhood are
      essential in the choice of a flat. Good air, light, space,
      proper plumbing, and general cleanness are to be sought.
      Owing to the general demand for these advantages, and a
      limited supply of them which is due to economic conditions
      prevailing in our cities, they unfortunately require money,
      therefore, the flat-seeker is compelled to do the best he can
      with that part of his income which he may safely appropriate
      for rent. As a rule, this amount is not more than one-fourth
      of income.
    </p>
    <p>
      When an apartment house has been properly built, and the
      walls are settled and the plastering dry, it generally comes
      up to the standard of comfort and health. Here the latest
      improvements in plumbing will be apt to be found, and there
      will be no danger of vermin. Then, too, a concession is more
      apt to be made by the landlord, who is anxious to secure
      tenants, by remission of a month's or a fortnight's rent, to
      be taken out after the first month. The landlord of such a
      house is also readier than the owner of an old one to make
      decorations, and even alterations, to suit the taste of the
      tenant.
    </p>
    <p>
      The walls in the kitchen should be painted rather than
      papered, and other parts of the flat designed primarily for
      utility. Since light is the great desideratum, the paint, as
      a rule, should be light in color, though soft and tinted in
      tone for restfulness to the eye. Where wallpaper is used, it
      should have the same characteristics. Fanciful designs should
      be avoided. Indeed, plain paper forms the best base for
      artistic color schemes in the decoration of rooms, the
      variety in which is best obtained by the choice of furniture
      and pictures and other wall ornaments.
    </p>
    <p>
      When there is a prospect that living in apartments will be
      only a temporary arrangement, the furniture should be chosen
      with a view to its adaptability for a house. Thus
      folding-beds should be avoided, and other articles that gain
      space by complexity, however ingenious. Simplicity is the
      quality to be desired. Thus if the exigency of space requires
      that a living room by day be converted into a sleeping room,
      a couch should be bought for it, instead of a folding bed. It
      will then serve the purpose of a sofa as well as a bed. If it
      is a box couch, further economy will be gained by its use as
      a place to store the bedclothes. But the simplest of all
      arrangements is a divan bed, formed of springs and mattress
      alone, and supported on legs nailed to the corners of the
      spring-frame. Over it a cover should be thrown during the
      day, and the pillows in use, if there is not room for them
      elsewhere, should be slipped into covers harmonious in color
      with the couch drapery. Such a reclining and sleeping couch
      may also be used in bedrooms, although an iron or brass
      bedstead gives an appearance of neatness and personal privacy
      that is desirable in such chambers.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where there is lack of closet space and lockers, trunks can
      be utilized in a flat for storing things. Steamer trunks that
      can be placed beneath the beds and couches are therefore the
      best kind to buy. They can also be readily converted into
      window seats by making pads of cotton batting to fit the
      tops, and placing over them covers and pillow cushions
      harmonious with the decoration of the room. Long flat
      "wardrobe trunks" are sold, which contain at one end rods for
      hanging clothes, so that, when stood up on the other end
      against the wall they serve as wardrobes. They always look,
      however, like makeshifts, and so are more useful in
      travelling than in the home.
    </p>
    <p>
      Rugs are more desirable than carpets in a city apartment,
      since they can be more readily cleaned, and, in case of
      moving to another flat or a house in the suburbs, will be
      more adaptable to the new situation.
    </p>
    <p>
      Bookcases in a temporary home should be of the unit system,
      where each shelf is a separate box enabling the books to be
      moved without repacking, and permitting rearrangement to suit
      the new situation, or the acquisition of new books. Where,
      however, the lower part of wall space is desired to give room
      for articles of furniture such as couches, shelves can be
      built, beginning at four and one-half or five feet above the
      floor. Mr. Edwin Markham, the poet, whose home overflows with
      books, has greatly economized space by building for them a
      broad lower shelf, about eighteen inches wide, and, three
      inches above this, another shelf twelve inches wide, and,
      three inches above this, a third six inches wide. When these
      are filled with books the titles of all are exposed, and, by
      taking out the volume or two immediately in front, a volume
      on one of the back shelves is readily obtained. Thus, by
      walking about his room, Mr. Markham can look with level eyes
      for the book he wants, and procure it without recourse to a
      chair or stepladder. This plan of banking books also lends
      itself to a decorative arrangement of them.
    </p>
    <p>
      Except in matters such as these, where economy is imperative,
      the furnishing of a city apartment does not differ
      essentially from that of a house, and the reader is therefore
      referred to the discussion of this in the following pages.
    </p>
    <p>
      The suburban, village, or country home differs from the city
      apartment, or even city house, in that it has been built
      without the primary consideration of space. It is separated
      from other houses, even though by the narrowest space of
      green lawn, that gives a house the individuality and
      independence without which it is hard for it to gather the
      associations of home. Even when a detached house is found in
      a city, its architecture is generally hampered by its
      adaptation to its narrow grounds. It rarely has that rounded
      development of character which is as desirable in a home as
      in a person.
    </p>
    <p>
      In selecting a rented home in the suburbs, the cost of the
      husband's transportation to and from the city should be added
      to the rent to keep this within the proper ratio to income,
      just as the difference in price of provisions should be
      considered in that portion allotted to food. Provisions, even
      country produce, are often dearer in suburban communities
      than in the city, and less saving can be made by close
      marketing, because the farmers and gardeners find it more
      profitable to send their produce to the center of greatest
      demand, and therefore of readiest sale, even though it costs
      more for transportation than to the smaller markets near by.
      So suburban grocers and provision men are wont to buy in the
      city markets, and add the cost of transportation back from
      the city, and an additional profit for the transaction, to
      the price to the consumer.
    </p>
    <p>
      Owing to the close competition for householders among
      real-estate men, it is now almost as easy to purchase a
      suburban home as it is to rent one, and it is therefore
      advisable to do this. The interest on purchase, and the fixed
      charges of taxes, insurance, water rent, etc., should be
      counted as rent, but a higher percentage of income may be
      safely allotted to these than to rent proper, since the
      purchase is also an investment. As a rule, the increase of
      land value near a growing city will considerably exceed the
      diminution in the value of the improvements. Indeed, owing to
      the constant advance of cost of building material in recent
      years, there is often enhancement rather than depreciation in
      the house value.
    </p>
    <p>
      For these economic reasons it is advisable to buy an old
      house when its cost is less than the cost of constructing a
      new one of the same desirability. The home-seeker, however,
      should curb his propensity to make extensive alterations,
      for, one leading to another, he will find at the end (if he
      ever reaches it) that he has virtually built a new house at a
      cost greater than he could afford.
    </p>
    <p>
      On the other hand, he should avoid those houses built on
      speculation to sell. In these a showy appearance is gained at
      the expense of durability of construction, and the purchaser
      will find that he must pay in plumbing, coal bills, and
      general repairs an amount he had not calculated upon as
      interest on the home, for, unless he rebuilds the house at
      ruinous expense, these will be annual charges.
    </p>
    <p>
      The most satisfactory way, and the one leading to great
      enjoyment in satisfying the "nest-building" instinct which
      possesses newly mated people no less than birds, is for the
      owners themselves to plan and superintend the building of the
      home. There is an infinite variety of architectural plans
      spread before the homeseeker in books and magazines. An
      examination of these will be of great value to him in
      clarifying his hazy ideas, but he should not settle upon any
      one of them without expert opinion. He should employ a local
      architect, or at least a builder with practical architectural
      ideas, to examine every feature of the plan selected as
      nearest the homeseeker's ideal, and revise it according to
      local conditions, cost and availability of material, etc.
      Money is always well spent that relieves one of
      responsibility, enabling him to say thereafter, "Well, I did
      every thing I could to have the thing done properly."
    </p>
    <p>
      The woman's wish should be paramount in planning the
      building. The home is her workshop, and she should have every
      convenience she requires to do her work properly. Things that
      appear of minor importance to a man, the architect and
      builder no less than her husband, are to her most vital. What
      pockets are to a man or business woman in clothes, closets
      and shelves are to a woman in her house, and yet she usually
      has to fight for them with the architect as the business
      woman does for pockets with her dressmaker. Unless she has
      worked out the practicability of her ideas, however, she will
      be at a great disadvantage with the experts, and therefore it
      is wise for her to make herself as familiar as possible with
      the main principles of building and the special details of
      the improvements she desires, especially as this knowledge
      will be of great use in seeing that the work is done as
      ordered. Where she has not acquired this knowledge, and the
      husband is either incompetent or not free to undertake this
      supervision, it is well to employ a contractor, arranging for
      thorough, satisfactory work, and holding him strictly to the
      contract.
    </p>
    <p>
      The prime requisite in a house is that it be adapted for home
      life, be a comfortable place in which to sleep, cook, eat,
      rest and read, talk and laugh, and play and pray; in a word,
      in which to do all the work that enables these necessities
      and pleasures to be obtained. Next to the comfort of the
      family comes that of the outside world. It is desirable,
      though not essential, that the home contain facilities for
      entertaining.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch05"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER V
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE HOUSE
    </h3>
    <p>
      Essential Parts of a House&#8212;Double Use of
      Rooms&#8212;Utility of Piazzas&#8212;Landscape
      Gardening&#8212;Water-supply&#8212;Water-power&#8212;Illumination&#8212;Dangers
      from Gas&#8212;How to Read a Gas-meter&#8212;How to Test
      Kerosene&#8212;Care of Lamps&#8212;Use of
      Candles&#8212;Making the Best of the Old House.
    </p>
    <p>
      The parts that are desirable in a well-ordered house may be
      enumerated as follows: Cellar, the kitchen, the storehouse,
      the pantry, the laundry, the dining-room, the living or
      sitting-room, the lavatory, the parlor, the hall, the
      library, the nursery, the sewing-room, the bedrooms,
      including guest chamber, the attic, the piazzas.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where economy of space must be practiced, storehouse and
      pantry may be combined, and nursery and sewing-room; and one
      of the family bedrooms may be devoted to the use of the
      occasional guest. The hall may be thrown into the parlor. The
      parlor may be properly converted into a library and music
      room, although when the father is of retiring literary
      tastes, he should have a "den" of his own, where he may read
      and smoke in peace.
    </p>
    <p>
      The parlor is too often wasted space in a house. As the "best
      room," and very often the largest room, it is reserved for
      reception of guests, weddings, and funerals, and at other
      times shut up in gloomy grandeur from the family, except,
      perhaps, as the place of banishment for a naughty child.
      Except when used as a library and music room, it should be
      one of the smallest in the house, and may, indeed, be
      entirely dispensed with. The family living-room is not an
      improper place in which to receive a guest, especially one
      whom it is desired should "feel at home."
    </p>
    <p>
      Of the rooms for the family, the nursery is the best to
      dispense with, the very young children being kept under the
      mother's oversight in her sewing-room, or the attic, or a
      loft in an out-building being fitted up for the elder ones as
      a play-room. In the case of the loft, it is well to equip it
      as a simple gymnasium.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is mistaken economy to use the living-room as a
      dining-room, since this interferes with the orderly work of
      the house, no less than with the comfort of the family. It
      may with propriety, however, be made also the sewing-room,
      and, in general, the mother's managerial office. Here she
      should keep her desk and her household account-books, and
      meet the tradesmen and other business callers. It is also
      more suited than the parlor for use as a family reading-room
      and working library. Disorder that betokens use, such as
      magazines on the center-table, or of papers on the desk, is
      here not inappropriate. Indeed, it gives a homelike
      appearance even to the social guest.
    </p>
    <p>
      China and glassware and silver arranged in proper array in
      wall closets, cabinets, and sideboards are the most
      appropriate decorations of the dining-room. It is not at all
      necessary that there should be pictures on the wall of game,
      fruit and flowers, or "still life" studies of vegetables and
      kitchen utensils. Indeed, these have become so expected that
      a change is quite a relief to a guest, who would welcome even
      the death's head that was the invariable ornament of the
      Egyptian feasts. Any pictures which are lively and cheerful
      in suggestion are suitable. Those that have a story to tell
      or a lesson to point are never out of place in a room
      frequented by children.
    </p>
    <p>
      For convenience the table-linen should be kept in drawers or
      lockers built beneath the shelves containing the china. A
      butler's pantry is not an essential when such arrangements as
      these are made.
    </p>
    <p>
      The kitchen, pantry, storeroom, and laundry form, as it were,
      the "factory" of the house, with the range as the central
      "engine." Accordingly they should be planned with respect to
      each other to save steps. Fortunately this means also saving
      expense in construction. Architects have been most ingenious
      as well as practical in perfecting these arrangements, and
      the housebuilder, therefore, needs no advice from us.
    </p>
    <p>
      It cannot be too much emphasized, however, that the cellar
      is, from the standpoints of sanitation and comfort, the most
      important part of the house. There should be no attempt to
      save expense by limiting its proper size, materials for
      walls, windows for ventilation, drainage, etc., for money so
      saved will inevitably be paid out many times over in coal
      bills, doctor's fees, and, perhaps, undertaker's bills. A dry
      cellar must be secured at all costs, for the air from it
      permeates the whole house. Where this is damp, it leads not
      alone to disease among the inmates, but to the disintegration
      of the house itself, through what is called "dry rot," but is
      paradoxically the result of dampness. Edgar Allan Poe, in his
      weird story, "The Fall of the House of Usher," has given a
      mystical interpretation of the dissolution of an old
      homestead which really has a scientific explanation that
      might be found in the cellar.
    </p>
    <p>
      The proper floor of a cellar is a layer of broken stones in
      which tile drains are laid, having outlets into a common
      drain, and over which a layer of concrete is placed, The
      walls, of plastered stone, brick, or concrete, should rise
      above the ground far enough to permit small windows, and
      prevent the admission of surface water from rain or snow.
      These windows should open from within, upward, and there
      should be hooks on the ceiling to keep them open for
      ventilation.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where a house is heated by a furnace, the style of this
      should be selected with great care, special regard being had
      to the economy of fuel. The systems of steam-heating,
      hot-water heating, or hot-air heating have each their merits,
      depending on the location of the house and the climate of the
      region. The cellar can also be used as a storeroom for those
      things not affected by the heat of the furnace, such as
      perishable food requiring an ice-box or a cool place,
      vegetables, especially those with a penetrating odor; apples,
      canned fruit and goods, etc., should be kept here, and
      barrels of commodities, such as vinegar, that are bought in
      large quantities. Shelves should be built on the walls and
      hooks hung on the rafters to increase the facilities for
      storage. Articles hung upon the hooks should be tied in paper
      bags. It is well to have the cellar ceiled, to keep out the
      dust of the house and reduce the risk of fire. Here, of
      course, is the natural place for the coal-bin, and, when
      there are no out-buildings, the man's workshop. The laundry
      may also be placed in the cellar, and, in stormy weather, the
      clothes hung there to dry. In the country the cellar is a
      good place in which to build an ice-vault.
    </p>
    <p>
      The kitchen should, of course, be airy and sunny. The sink
      should be placed near a south window, if possible, to prevent
      freezing of pipes. An iron sink is more cleanly than a wooden
      one, and cheaper than porcelain and copper. It should have a
      platform with room for two dishpans, and a drying shelf,
      raised at one end to permit drainage. Where economy of space
      is essential, this shelf may be removable, permitting the use
      for other things of the table beneath.
    </p>
    <p>
      Two other tables are necessary in a proper kitchen equipment,
      one covered with zinc for a work-table, set near the range,
      and the other a plain table set near the dining-room, for the
      prepared dishes. There should be three lights, lamps in
      brackets, gas-jets, or electric bulbs, near the sink, range
      and food-table respectively. The refrigerator should be put
      outside the kitchen, in some such place as a sheltered part
      of the back piazza. Commodities such as tea and coffee, not
      requiring ice, should be kept in covered jars, preferably
      earthen, on a dresser or shelf, where the bread-box may also
      stand. There should be a kitchen closet for the flour-barrel
      and sugar-box, which should be covered for further protection
      from dust, flies, dampness, etc., and for the canned goods in
      immediate requisition.
    </p>
    <p>
      The stove or range should be selected with reference on the
      one hand to the amount of cooking to be done for the family,
      and on the other to the saving of fuel. Where there is a
      water supply, of course there should be a boiler connected
      with the range. This should be large enough to assure a
      sufficient supply of hot water for the house. There should be
      a shelf near the range for such articles as the pepper-box
      and salt-box which are in constant use in cooking, and hooks
      should be near at hand for hanging up the poker, lid-lifter,
      and a coarse towel for use in taking pans from the oven.
      Other shelves and hooks, of course, should be put in for the
      various utensils necessary in the kitchen.
    </p>
    <p>
      The floor of the kitchen should be covered with a good
      quality of linoleum. A perforated rubber mat may be placed at
      the sink, although this is not necessary. In fact, it is a
      better plan for the woman in the kitchen, as indeed
      elsewhere, to get rubber heels for her shoes. The Arabs have
      a proverb that to him who is shod it is as if the whole world
      were covered with leather, and rubber heels similarly cause
      every floor in the house, whether bare or carpeted, to be
      equally easy to the feet of the busy housewife.
    </p>
    <p>
      The laundry should be supplied with two tubs, an
      ironing-table, an ironing-board, and a stove for the boiler
      and the irons. The ironing-board should be supported upon two
      "horses" of the height of the table. The table should be
      supplied with an iron-rest.
    </p>
    <p>
      In a well-planned house there should be separate bedrooms for
      every inmate except the very small children. It is quite an
      economy in the care of the house that each child, at as early
      an age as possible, should have its own room and be taught to
      take care of it. Since the room is designed primarily for
      sleeping, care should be taken that the bed be placed in such
      a position that the light falls from behind the sleeper's
      head. The dresser should be so placed that the light falls on
      the face of the occupant of the room when he is looking into
      the mirror. Even at the expense of space in the bedroom
      proper, there should be a large closet in every
      sleeping-room. The deeper the closet the better, for, by
      using rods attached to the back of the closet and projecting
      through its width, whereon clothes-hangers may be strung, far
      more room will be obtained for clothes than where hooks and
      nails are employed. By the use of these clothes-hangers, too,
      suits and dresses may be kept in much better order. The top
      of the closet may be occupied by one broad, high shelf,
      whereon hats and bonnets may be kept in their proper
      receptacles. Shoes should be kept in a drawer at the bottom
      of the closet, rather than thrown on the floor beneath the
      dresser. It is a mistake to substitute a curtain for the door
      of the closet, since it is of the first importance to keep
      the clothing free from dust.
    </p>
    <p>
      Shelves are better than closets for the keeping of the bed
      linen. It is a handy thing to have a separate linen closet in
      the house, but this is not essential. The sewing-room of the
      mother is a suitable place for keeping the linen. Shelves are
      preferable to closets for this purpose. There should also be
      a medicine closet or locker in the mother's room which will
      be handy in case of sudden illness among the children.
    </p>
    <p>
      In view of the importance of sanitation, more thought than is
      ordinarily allotted to it should be given to the lavatory.
      Where there is room to spare, it is best to have the bath
      separate from the toilet, in order to prevent inconvenience
      in use. There should be a basin and toilet upon the ground
      floor, and a bathroom and toilet upon the sleeping floor. The
      walls of the lavatory should be tiled, or, if this is too
      expensive, they should be covered with water-proof paper. All
      toilet arrangements should be systematically kept clean, and
      the necessary supplies at all times provided.
    </p>
    <p>
      Piazzas may be made to add no less to the utility than to the
      beauty and comfort of the house. A lower back piazza, covered
      with vines, is the ideal place in summer for eating and such
      heating labors as ironing. When thoroughly secured from
      intrusion, an upper balcony furnishes the best of sleeping
      quarters for one wise and brave enough to scout the
      superstition of the bad effects of night air. Many persons of
      delicate health, even consumptives, have been restored to
      vigorous strength by sleeping in such a place, not only in
      summer but throughout the winter, save in beating storms.
    </p>
    <p>
      Closely conjoined with forethought for utility in the
      planning of a house is forethought for beauty. It is well to
      have an artistic imagination in visualizing, as it were, the
      "hominess" of the house as it will appear after its rawness
      has been mellowed by time, and its forms have been endeared
      by association. This imagination is specially essential in
      the planting of trees, arrangement of flower gardens, the
      choice of the kind of enclosure, whether hedge or fence, and,
      in general, all that is known under the name of landscape
      gardening.
    </p>
    <p>
      The housekeeper's work is greatly dependent upon the kind of
      water supply available for the house. In cities and towns the
      kind of supply is fixed for her, but in the country she is
      afforded her freedom of choice. She has a choice of water
      from wells or springs, which is more or less "hard," that is,
      impregnated with lime, and water collected from rain or
      melting snow. For household purposes rainwater is the more
      desirable, and, when properly filtered and kept in clean
      cisterns protected from the larvae of mosquitoes and other
      disease-bearing insects, it is also the best for drinking
      purposes. To one accustomed to drinking hard water from a
      well or spring, rain water is a little unpalatable, but after
      he is accustomed to its use he will prefer it. It is always
      wise to secure an analysis of the drinking water of the
      house, since water reputed pure because of its clearness and
      coldness is as apt as any other to be contaminated. Where
      soft water is not available for household use, hard water may
      be softened by the addition to it of pearline or soda, or by
      boiling, in the latter case the lime in it being precipitated
      to the bottom of the kettle or boiler.
    </p>
    <p>
      When well water is used for drinking some knowledge of the
      geology of the home grounds is essential. Thus, because the
      top of a well is on higher ground than the cess-pool is no
      reason for assuming that the contents of the latter may not
      seep into the water, for the inclination of the strata of the
      rocks may be in a contrary direction to that of the surface
      of the ground.
    </p>
    <p>
      When filters and strainers are used they should be carefully
      cleaned at regular intervals, since if they are permitted to
      accumulate impurities they become a source of contamination
      instead of its remedy. Every once in a while the housekeeper
      should take off the strainers from the faucets and boil them.
    </p>
    <p>
      There are many excellent systems for obtaining water power
      for the house in the country, each of which has its special
      advantages. The pumping of water to a tank at the top of the
      house by a windmill is that most commonly used. This is the
      cheapest method, but the most unsightly. Small kerosene or
      hot-air engines may be employed for the power at very slight
      cost, and will prove useful for other purposes, such as
      sawing wood or even operating the sewing-machines. Owing to
      the many inventions for isolated lighting plants by acetylene
      and other kinds of gas, dwellers in the country have
      virtually as free a choice of illumination as the people in
      towns and cities.
    </p>
    <p>
      Great caution is necessary in the use of any form of
      illuminating gas, since all produce asphyxiation.
      Accordingly, all gas fixtures of the house should be
      regularly inspected to see that there is no escape of the
      subtile, destructive fluid. The odor of escaping gas which is
      so unpleasant is really a blessing, in that it informs the
      householder of his danger. A cock that turns completely
      around and, after extinguishing the light, permits the escape
      of the gas, is more dangerous than a poisonous serpent. Yet
      there may be nothing radically wrong with this fixture, and
      the use of the screwdriver may make it as good as new. Gas
      should never be turned low when there is a draught in the
      room, nor allowed to burn near hanging draperies. Care should
      always be taken in turning out a gas-stove or a drop-light to
      do so at the fixture and not at the burner. This is not alone
      safer, but it keeps the rubber tube from acquiring a
      disagreeable odor from the gas that has been left in it.
    </p>
    <p>
      Great economy in the consumption of gas may be secured by the
      use of Welsbach and other incandescent burners. Where these
      are not employed, care should be taken to select the most
      economical kind of gas tips, and to see that when these
      become impaired by use they are replaced.
    </p>
    <p>
      In the large cities there is constant complaint of defective
      gas-meters, so much so that inspectors have been appointed to
      correct this abuse. It has been found, however, that many
      complaints have been unfounded because the housewives were
      not able properly to read the meter. Directions how to do
      this will therefore be found useful. A gas-meter has three
      dials marking tip to 100,000 feet, 10,000 feet, and 1,000
      feet respectively. The figures on the second dial are
      arranged in opposite order from those on the first and third
      dials, and this often leads to an error in reckoning.
      However, there should be no trouble in setting down the
      figures indicated by the pointer on each dial. We first set
      down the figure indicated upon the first dial in the units
      place of a period of three places, then that indicated upon
      the second dial in the tens place, and then that indicated
      upon the third dial in the hundreds place. To these we add
      two ciphers, to obtain the number of feet of gas that has
      been burned since the meter was set at zero on the three
      dials. From this number we subtract the total of feet burned
      at the time when the preceding gas bill was rendered. This is
      generally called on the bill "present state of meter." The
      result of the subtraction will be the amount of gas that has
      been burned since the last bill was rendered. For example:
    </p>
    <pre>
   95,300, amount indicated on dial.
   82,700, amount marked "present state of meter" on preceding gas bill.
   &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;
   12,600, amount of gas for which current bill is rendered.
</pre>
    <p>
      Equal care must be exercised when kerosene is used for
      illumination, since, while it is not so dangerous directly to
      life, it is the chief source of the destruction of property.
      Accordingly the nature of kerosene and the way it illuminates
      is a profitable subject of study if we would prevent
      destructive fires. Really, we do not burn the oil, but the
      gas that arises from the oil when liberated by the burning
      wick and becomes incandescent when fed by the oxygen of the
      air. While kerosene requires a high temperature for
      combustion, it is closely related to other products of coal
      oil, such as naphtha and gasoline, which become inflammable
      at a low heat and are therefore very dangerous. Since the
      cheap grades of kerosene approach these products in quality,
      care should be taken to see that it is of high "proof" in
      order to prevent explosions. The proof required of kerosene
      differs in various States; that in some is as low as 100
      degrees Fahrenheit, that is, the temperature at which the oil
      will give off vapors that will ignite. This is too low a
      proof, for such a degree of temperature is quite common in
      the household. It is safe only to use that kerosene which is
      at least 140 degrees proof, for then, even though the oil is
      spilled, there is little danger that it will ignite except in
      the immediate presence of flame. There is no danger at all in
      soaking wood with this kind of oil in a stove or grate
      wherein the fire has gone out.
    </p>
    <p>
      To test kerosene, put a thermometer into a cup partially
      filled with cold water, and add boiling water until the
      mercury stands at 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Then take out the
      thermometer and pour two teaspoonfuls of kerosene into the
      cup and pass over it the flame of a candle. If the oil
      ignites, it is unsafe.
    </p>
    <p>
      In order to prevent the flame from running down into the lamp
      and causing an explosion, the wick should be soft, filling
      the burner completely. The highest efficiency in the form of
      illumination is obtained by round burners, especially those
      in lamps which admit air to the inside of the wick and so
      induce the largest possible amount of combustion. Such a lamp
      produces quite a high degree of heat, and will answer the
      purpose of an oil-stove in a small room.
    </p>
    <p>
      Contrary to the popular idea, wicks should be carefully
      trimmed with scissors rather than with a match or other
      instrument. In extinguishing a lamp one should first turn
      down the wick and blow across the chimney, never down the
      chimney.
    </p>
    <p>
      Owing to the fact that the wick is constantly bringing up oil
      by capillary attraction, whether it is lighted or unlighted,
      lamps in which the wicks have not been cared are kept
      continually greasy. In fact, a lamp that is greasy or that
      gives out a bad odor is one that has not been properly cared.
      With due attention, lamps are as clean and handy a means of
      illumination as any other form.
    </p>
    <p>
      Candles, that are now used chiefly for decorative purposes,
      may still be practically employed for carrying light about
      the house. The danger from a falling candle carried by a
      child up to bed is not nearly so great as that which may
      result from either spilt oil from a broken lamp or the
      cutting glass of its chimney.
    </p>
    <p>
      To those who live in an old house, all the foregoing advice
      should prove a source of helpfulness in making the best of
      the old home, rather than of dissatisfaction with its seeming
      shortcomings. There are many simple, inexpensive ways of
      making it conform to the model house. Expense need only be
      incurred in sanitary improvement, such as the better drainage
      of the cellar, enabling it to be utilized for purposes which
      now crowd the "work-rooms" of the home, and the alterations
      of the windows to permit better lighting and ventilation.
      Very often a room can be made to exchange purposes by a
      simple transference of furniture, thus saving the housekeeper
      steps. A woodhouse can be converted into a summer kitchen,
      and the old one, during this season, used as a dining-room,
      though it may be found even pleasanter to eat out of doors
      under an arbor or on a wide piazza. A porch may be
      partitioned off into a laundry, and the attic ceiled and
      partitioned for use as a bedroom. Very often an old boxed-off
      stairway, built in the days when it was thought unseemly to
      show a connection with the upper bedrooms, can be relieved of
      its door and walls, to the increase of space in the lower
      room, and of the beauty of its appearance. Indeed, as a rule,
      there are too many doors in an old house. Some of these can
      be altered into open arched entrances, making one large
      commodious room out of two little inconvenient ones. Unused
      out-buildings can be turned into playrooms for the children,
      and even sleeping quarters. All these are changes that make
      for the beauty no less than the utility of home, as proved by
      the fact that many artists, especially those who have studied
      abroad where old country houses are more or less of this
      unconventional character, go into the country and alter in
      this fashion old and even abandoned houses into houses
      admired for their charming individuality. Illustrations of
      such "hermitages" frequently appear in the magazines, and may
      be studied for suggestions. Sometimes the alteration is of
      the exterior only. The repainting in a proper color, or the
      simple creosote staining of a weather-beaten house, with the
      addition of a rustic porch or the breaking of a corner
      bedroom into a balcony, will sometimes so transform an old
      house that it looks as if it were a new creation.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch06"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER VI
    </h2>
    <h3>
      FURNITURE AND DECORATION
    </h3>
    <p>
      The Qualities to Be Sought in Furniture&#8212;Home-made
      Furniture&#8212;Semi-made Furniture&#8212;Good Furniture as
      an Investment&#8212;Furnishing and Decorating the
      Hall&#8212;The Staircase&#8212;The Parlor&#8212;Rugs and
      Carpets&#8212;Oriental Rugs&#8212;Floors&#8212;Treatment of
      Hardwood&#8212;Of Other Wood&#8212;How to Stain a
      Floor&#8212;Filling as a Floor Covering.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      Necessity invented stools,<br>
       Convenience next suggested elbow-chairs,<br>
       And Luxury the accomplished sofa last.<br>
      <br>
       WILLIAM COWPER&#8212;<i>The Task.</i>
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      Utility, comfort and elegance are, as Cowper shows, the three
      successive purposes for which furniture was designed. And
      to-day the order of development remains also the order of
      importance. The first things to be desired in any article of
      furniture are durability and simple application to its
      purpose. These being found, a person naturally looks to see
      if the use of them will contribute to his physical pleasure
      as well as his convenience, that the back of a chair is the
      right height and curvature to fit his back, and the seat is
      not so deep as to strain his legs; that the table or desk is
      one he can spread his legs under in natural fashion, and rest
      his elbows upon with ease; in short, that the furniture
      conforms to his bodily requirements, as the chair and bed of
      the "wee teenty bear" suited exactly the little old woman of
      Southey's tale. Last of all, the aesthetic pleasure, the
      appreciation of beauty by the mind, decides the choice in
      cases of equal utility and comfort. The artistic
      considerations are so many that furniture has become a branch
      of art, like sculpture or painting, with a large literature
      and history of its own.
    </p>
    <p>
      Since most authorities on the subject largely ignore the
      questions of utility and comfort, devoting themselves to the
      questions of aesthetic style, it will be useful to our
      purpose here to confine the discussion to the neglected
      qualities. As a rule, a durable, useful, and comfortable
      article is a beautiful one. At least it has the beauty of
      "grace," by which terms the old writers on aesthetics
      characterized perfect adaptation to purpose, and the beauty
      of what they called "homeliness," or, as we would now say,
      since this term has been perverted, of "hominess," the
      suggestion of adding to the pleasure of the household.
    </p>
    <p>
      The quality of "hominess" is greatly increased in an article
      of furniture by a frank look or "home-made" appearance. There
      is no more delightful occupation for the leisure hours of a
      man or woman, and no more useful training for a boy or girl,
      than the making of simple articles of home furniture. Really,
      the first article of furniture which should be brought into
      the house is a well-equipped tool-chest, and the first room
      which should be fitted up is the workshop. A vast amount of
      labor will be saved thereby in unpacking, adjusting,
      repairing, and polishing the old and the new household
      articles, so that life in the new home be begun under the
      favorable auspices of the great household deity, the Goddess
      of Order. When it is further considered that often small
      repairs made by a carpenter cost more than a new article, the
      tool-chest will be valued by the family as a most profitable
      investment.
    </p>
    <p>
      If it is not possible to procure the proper materials and
      tools for making the entire article, some part of the work,
      the shaping, and certainly the staining and polishing, can be
      done at home. If the visitor does not recognize the home
      quality in such an article, the maker does, and will always
      have a pride and affection for it.
    </p>
    <p>
      Many furniture manufacturers give in their catalogues designs
      of semi-made or "knock together" furniture, that is, the
      parts of tables, chairs, etc., cut out and planed, which it
      is intended that the purchaser put together himself. These,
      as a rule, are made of good material befitting the hand
      workmanship which will be put upon them, and are offered at a
      considerable reduction from the price asked for ready-made
      furniture of the same material.
    </p>
    <p>
      Furniture stains of excellent quality are found in every
      hardware store and paint shop, which can easily be applied by
      the merest amateur.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is never wise to buy flimsy furniture, however cheap. As a
      rule, there is too much furniture in the American home. It is
      better to get along with a few good, durable articles, even
      though a little expensive, than with a profusion of inferior
      ones. These soon reveal their "cheap and nasty qualities,"
      are in constant need of repair, and quickly descend from the
      place of honor in the parlor to be endured a while in the
      living room, then abused in the kitchen, and, finally, burnt
      as fuel. Good wood and leather, however, are long in becoming
      shabby, and even then require only a little attention to be
      restored to good condition. When it is considered that in
      furniture there is virtually no monopoly of design or
      invention, and one therefore pays for material and labor
      alone, and competition has reduced these to the lowest terms,
      the purchaser is certain to get the worth of his money when
      he pays a higher price for durable material and honest
      workmanship. When it is further recalled that our chief
      heirlooms from the former generations are tables and chairs
      and bureaus, it will appear that it is our duty to hand down
      to our children furniture of similar durability and honest
      quality. Therefore, money spent for good furniture may be
      considered as a permanent investment whose returns are
      comfort and satisfaction in the present, and loving
      remembrance in the days to come.
    </p>
    <p>
      So often is the artistic beauty of a house destroyed by a bad
      selection and arrangement of furniture and choice of
      inharmonious decorations, that many architects are coming to
      advise, and even dictate, the style of everything that goes
      into the house. Thus Colonial furniture is prescribed for a
      residence in Colonial style, Mission furniture for Mission
      architecture, etc. There is a corresponding movement among
      makers of artistic furniture to plan houses suited to their
      particular styles. Thus "Craftsman" houses and "Craftsman"
      furniture are designed by the same business interest.
    </p>
    <p>
      Since, however, the average American home is something of a
      composite in architectural design, the housekeeper may be
      permitted to exercise her taste in making selections from the
      infinite variety of styles of furniture that are offered her
      by the manufacturers of the country. It is advisable,
      however, that the furniture in each room be in harmony.
    </p>
    <p>
      Let us briefly examine the articles of furniture and styles
      of decoration appropriate for the several rooms.
    </p>
    <p>
      The hall, now often the smallest, most ill-considered part of
      the house, was once its chief glory. In the old days in
      England, and, indeed, in America, the word was used as
      synonymous with the mansion, as Bracebridge Hall, Haddon
      Hall, etc. It was the largest apartment, the center of family
      and social life. Here the inmates and their guests feasted
      and danced and sang. Gradually it was divided off into rooms
      for specific purposes, until now in general practice it has
      narrowed down to a mere vestibule or entrance to the other
      rooms, with only those articles of furniture in it which are
      useful to the one coming in or going out of the house,
      combination stands with mirror, pins for hanging up hats and
      overcoats, umbrella holder, a chair or so, or a settee for
      the guest awaiting reception, etc. Often the chair or settee
      is of the most uncomfortable design, conspiring with the
      narrow quarters to make the visitor's impression of the house
      and its inmates a very disagreeable one. If space is lacking
      to make the hall a comfortable and pleasing room, it should
      be abolished, and the visitor, if a social one, taken at once
      to the parlor, and if a business one, to the living-room.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where, however, size permits it, the hall should be made the
      most attractive part of the house. Here is the proper place
      for a "Grandfather's Clock," a rug or so of artistic design,
      and a jardiniere holding growing plants or flowers. The
      wallpaper should be simple and dignified in design, but of
      cheerful tone. Some shade of red is always appropriate.
      Remember in choosing decorations that the colors of the
      spectrum&#8212;violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange,
      red&#8212;run the gamut of emotive influence from depression
      to exhilaration. Violet and indigo lower the spirits, blue
      and green hold them in peaceful equilibrium, yellow begins to
      cheer them, and orange and red excite them.
    </p>
    <p>
      However, the color scheme of a hall is largely dependent upon
      the wood-finish, because of the amount of this shown in the
      stairs.
    </p>
    <p>
      Dark red is a very suitable color for the stair-carpet. The
      best way to fasten this is by a recent invisible contrivance
      which goes underneath the material. Brass rods are
      ornamental, rather too much so, and carpet tacks are
      provoking, both in putting down and taking up the carpet.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where the hall and stairway are wide and room-like, pictures
      should be hung on the walls, interesting in subject and
      cheerful in decorative tone. The presence of the stairway,
      especially if this is broken by a landing, permits quite a
      variety of arrangement. The line of ascent should be followed
      only approximately. Remember that it is a fundamental law of
      art always to suggest a set idea, but never to follow it; to
      have a rule in mind, and then play about it rather than
      strictly pursue it. Art is free and frolicking. It gambols
      along the straight path of utility, following the scent of
      airy suggestion into outlying fields and by-paths, but always
      keeping the general direction of the path.
    </p>
    <p>
      The parlor, when this is not combined with the hall, should
      be furnished and decorated according to the chief use the
      family intend to make of it. If they are given to formal
      entertainment, the color scheme may be in "high key," that
      is, a combination of white with either gold, rose, or green,
      any of which forms a bright setting for gay evening costumes.
      But this decoration is not advisable in the case of the
      average American home, since it is too fine and frivolous for
      the reception of neighbors in ordinary dress. A quieter, more
      dignified color-scheme should be adopted; such as golden
      brown, with subdued decorations for the wall, and
      ecru-colored lace curtains for the windows. The floor may be
      of hardwood, in which case a few medium-sized Oriental rugs
      should be placed on the floor. It is not essential that these
      "match" the wallpaper, for they are of the nature of artistic
      household treasures, and so rise autocratically above the
      necessity of conformity. Where they are chosen with a view to
      the color scheme, it is advisable to make them the means of
      transition from the hall. If this is decorated in dark red,
      the rugs leading from it into the parlor may shade off from
      this into more golden tones. The design of the rugs should be
      unobtrusive. The homemaker should not feel that Oriental rugs
      are too expensive for consideration. Every once in a while
      their is a glut of them in the market, owing to an extensive
      importation, when they can be purchased at a price which will
      always insure the owner getting his money back if at any time
      he wishes to dispose of them. But the purchaser should be
      certain that the bargains offered are real ones, for
      rug-stores, like trunk-stores, always seem to be selling out
      "at a sacrifice." All Oriental rugs are well made, and, with
      proper usage, will last for generations, even enhancing in
      value. Therefore, they are always safe investments. Oriental
      rug-dealers repair rugs at a fair price for the time spent in
      doing so.
    </p>
    <p>
      Since the floor space of a room with rugs in it is about
      two-thirds bare, the rugs will often not exceed the cost of a
      good carpet.
    </p>
    <p>
      Hard woods take best a finish in brown or green, that gives
      an impress of natural texture impossible to secure by paint.
      Hardwood floors should be polished at least once a week with
      floor-wax, a simple compound of beeswax and turpentine, which
      can be made at home, or bought at the stores. This is useful
      for polishing any floor or woodwork. When the floor is not of
      hardwood, it may be stained. All varieties of stains are
      sold, the most durable, though the most expensive being the
      old-fashioned oil oak-stain. For the parlor and other floors,
      and corridors, stairways, etc., that do not get much wear, as
      well as for hardwood work in general, varnishing saves time
      and labor in cleaning.
    </p>
    <p>
      For proper staining, the wood should be thoroughly scrubbed
      with soap and water; then, when dry, brushed over with hot
      size. Use concentrated size, a dry powder, rather than that
      in jelly form, as it is more convenient. It is dissolved and
      should be applied with a broad paint-brush. The application
      should be very rapid to prevent congealing and setting in
      lumps on the boards; accordingly the bowl containing the size
      should be set in boiling water until it is thoroughly liquid,
      and kept in this condition. The number of coats must depend
      upon the absorbent nature of the boards. One coat must be
      allowed to dry thoroughly before another is applied. Over
      night is a sufficient time for this. Varnishing also should
      be done rapidly to prevent dust settling on it. It is best
      done in a warm room, without draughts. Do not use stains
      ready-mixed with varnish, as these do not last as long, nor
      look so well as pure stains varnished after application. When
      the boards are in bad condition they should be first
      sandpapered. Cracks should be filled with wedges of wood
      hammered in and planed smooth. They can also be filled with
      thin paper torn up, mixed with hot starch and beaten to a
      pulp. This can be pressed into the cracks with a glazier's
      knife. The use of putty or plaster of Paris for this purpose
      is not so satisfactory as these methods.
    </p>
    <p>
      For sleeping-rooms and living-rooms, which for sanitary
      reasons it is advisable to scrub, the stain should be left
      unvarnished.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch07"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER VII
    </h2>
    <h3>
      FURNITURE AND DECORATION
    </h3>
    <p>
      The Carpet Square&#8212;Furniture for the Parlor&#8212;Parlor
      Decoration&#8212;The Piano&#8212;The
      Library&#8212;Arrangement of Books&#8212;The "Den"&#8212;The
      Living-room&#8212;The Dining-room&#8212;Bedrooms&#8212;How to
      Make a Bed&#8212;The Guest Chamber&#8212;Window Shades and
      Blinds.
    </p>
    <p>
      Housekeepers often prefer carpets to bare floors, and rugs
      for the reason that they "show the dirt" less. It is for this
      very reason that bare floors are best. Dirt is something to
      remove rather than conceal, and bare floors and rugs are more
      easily cleaned than carpets.
    </p>
    <p>
      Covering the entire floor with plain filling, as a base for
      rugs, is an alternative for either hardwood or stained
      floors. It should be in the deeper tone of the color employed
      as a main part of the room's decoration.
    </p>
    <p>
      When carpets are used, those in the hall, parlor, and
      dining-room should not be fitted into the corners, but a
      space should intervene between their edges and the walls.
      This may be filled with wood-carpetry, which, like all
      devices which suggest continuation of fine material through
      unseen parts, gives an air of art and elegance at
      comparatively little expense. Otherwise the floor, if
      hardwood, should be finished; if of other wood, stained and
      varnished. The carpet square is kept in position with
      brass-headed pins sold for the purpose.
    </p>
    <p>
      Articles of furniture which are suitable for a parlor used
      chiefly as a reception room are light side chairs, and a
      settee, cane-seated with dark frames, or willow chairs, and
      settee, stained a dark hue, and brightened up with pretty
      cushions. These are not dear, so a little extra expense may
      be incurred in buying the parlor-table, which should be
      graceful in design and of rich dark wood, preferably
      mahogany, or in mahogany finish. A small table, of similar
      design and finish, should serve for afternoon tea, and a
      pretty desk stand near a window, with writing materials for
      the use of guests. There should be a clock upon the
      mantelpiece, and a few other articles of vertu, such as a
      vase or so, a bronze statuette, etc., all harmonized by the
      common possession of artistic elegance.
    </p>
    <p>
      The pictures in the parlor should possess evident artistic
      merit. There should be no suggestion of amateurishness.
      Family attempts at drawing or painting, crayon portraits,
      etc., all photographs, with the exception of those intended
      as artistic studies, should be excluded from the walls. If
      good originals by capable artists are not obtainable, fine
      engravings, etchings, and even colored copies of noted
      pictures may take their place.
    </p>
    <p>
      A few books, well bound and with contents worthy of the
      binding, should lie on the parlor table, with a late magazine
      or so, for the entertainment of the waiting guest. There
      should be fresh flowers arranged in pretty bowls to add their
      impress of cheerfulness and beauty to the room.
    </p>
    <p>
      In most American homes the parlor is also the music room.
      Since a piano should be chosen for quality rather than
      appearance, an instrument of any finish is allowable in a
      room, whatever its decorative scheme. Except in a family
      containing an expert performer, a piano should be chosen for
      softness and richness of tone, instead of brilliancy. For
      most households the old cottage organ is a more practicable
      instrument than the "concert grand" often found in a small
      parlor, where its piercing notes, especially in combination
      with operatic singing, are so confined that tones and
      overtones, which should assist each other, mingle in jarring
      confusion. Indeed, when the parlor is large and high, a
      genuine pipe-organ built in a recess and harmonizing in
      finish with the woodwork of the room is not only the finest
      decoration possible, but the most appropriate musical
      instrument. Those families who possess an old-fashioned
      piano, such as thin and tinkly "square," are advised to have
      it overhauled and refinished by a competent piano-repairer,
      and preserved, if only for practice by the children. In case
      such an instrument has "overstrung" wires, it can be restored
      to a tone that is better than that of the usual upright
      piano.
    </p>
    <p>
      The parlor that is put to family use is usually the best room
      to fit up for a library. In this case the form-and-color
      scheme of furnishing and decoration should differ entirely
      from that when the room is used only for the reception of
      guests. The furniture should be heavier and larger,
      indicating utility, and its finish, as also that of the
      walls, floor and woodwork, in deep shades of the more restful
      colors of the spectrum. Sage-green is a good color for the
      parlor-library. The furniture may be of this or even darker
      hue. There is no better style of furniture for the library
      than the Mission, made comfortable by leather cushions. If
      leather is thought too expensive, there are fair substitutes
      for it in such materials as pantasote. But leather should be
      procured if possible. It looks better and wears longer, and
      even when shabby keeps its respectability. With the Mission
      furniture may be mingled an old-fashioned upholstered chair
      or so, such as a large "Sleepy Hollow." A Morris chair is
      almost as comfortable as this, and perhaps upholds the
      dignity of the room a little better, though it does not give
      the same suggestion of "hominess." An old-fashioned sofa,
      wide-seated, and designed to be lain upon, should be placed
      in the room with its head toward the light, so that the
      occupant may read while reclining upon it. In almost every
      old house there is a horse-hair sofa, either put away in the
      attic or even in use, which can be reupholstered to fit the
      color-scheme of the room.
    </p>
    <p>
      Books naturally form the chief ornament of the library. It is
      a mistake to give them an elaborate casing. The simplest form
      is the best; the shelves should run up evenly from the floor
      to a more or less ornamental and somewhat projecting top,
      terminating several feet from the ceiling. On this top a bust
      or so of an author may be appropriately placed, or copies of
      an ancient statue, and on the wall above, between the cases
      of shelves, may hang a few pictures, not necessarily bookish
      in suggestion, but reposeful in subject and tone, such as
      landscapes and marines.
    </p>
    <p>
      A writing desk of comfortable size, with its chair, is
      essential in every library. It should be as far away as
      possible from the type of the modern business desk, and
      therefore an old-fashioned article with a sloping top, which,
      when let down, serves for the writing board, is an ideal
      form. Manufacturers continue to make these desks for home
      purposes.
    </p>
    <p>
      The library table should be large and simple. One that is
      oval in shape is the best for the family to gather about, and
      therefore gives the most homelike appearance. The
      illumination of the library should center either upon this
      table, if a lamp is used, or above it, if gas or electric
      light. The desk should have a side-light of its own.
    </p>
    <p>
      Modern library conveniences are presented in so handy and
      presentable shapes that the room may be perfectly equipped as
      a literary workshop without crowding it, or detracting from
      its appearance. A dictionary holder (wooden, not wire), a
      revolving bookcase for other works of reference, and a card
      index of the library may complete the equipment. It will be
      well to utilize one or more of the drawers of the desk as a
      file for clippings. These should be kept in stout manila
      envelopes, slightly less in size than the width and height of
      the drawer, and with the names of subjects contained, and
      arranged in alphabetical order.
    </p>
    <p>
      The carpet should be plain in design, and underlaid with
      padding. The curtains should be of heavier and darker stuff
      than those in the parlor, and easily adjusted to admit the
      light.
    </p>
    <p>
      The library and living room are generally next each other,
      and so each may and should have a fireplace in the common
      chimney. That of the library should be of severer design;
      that of the living-room more homelike. Dutch tiles, with
      pictures that interest children, are specially appropriate
      for the latter.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where the father of the family demands a "den" for reading
      and smoking, this may be a small room on the same general
      order as the library, but with an emphasis on comfort. Thus,
      the sofa should be replaced by a wide divan, which may also
      serve on occasion as a sleeping-place. The Turkish style of
      furnishing is the customary one; the Japanese style being a
      fad that came in with the aesthetic craze, was carried to an
      uncomfortable excess, and has gone out of fashion. The most
      appropriate style for an American house is American Indian.
      The brilliant and strikingly designed Navajo blankets may be
      used for both rugs and couch covers, or hung up as
      wall-ornaments. Moqui basketware serves equally well for
      useful purposes, such as scrap-baskets, and for
      ornamentation. The pottery of the Pueblo Indians, being naive
      and primitive in design, is much more intimate and therefore
      appropriate than the Japanese bric-a-brac which it replaces.
    </p>
    <p>
      The living-room is the heart of the house, and everything in
      it should be of a nature to collect loving associations.
      Almost any style of furniture is admissible into it, if only
      it is comfortable. There should be rocking-chairs, for the
      woman and the neighbors who drop in to see her, other chairs
      stout enough for a man to tip back upon the hind legs, and
      little chairs, or a little settee by the fireplace, for the
      children. The mother's desk should stand here, plainer than
      the one in the library, but of design similar to it; there
      should be a sofa as comfortable as the library one, to which
      the mother should have the first right. The paper should be
      cheerful in its tone and with a definite design. This will
      become endeared by association with home to the children, and
      the mother should be slow to replace it. The window draperies
      may be home-made, such as of rough-finished silk or
      embroidered canvas, and the floor covered with a thick
      rag-carpet, preferably of a nondescript or "hit-and-miss"
      design. If the housekeeper thinks that this is "hominess"
      carried to excess, she may cover the floor with an ingrain
      carpet, or better, plain filling of a medium shade, on which
      a few rag rugs are laid, light in color. Very artistic
      carpets and rugs are made out of old carpets and sold at
      reasonable figures, and there still remain in some small
      towns throughout the country weavers who weave into carpets
      the carpet-rags sewn together by housewives for the price of
      their labor alone.
    </p>
    <p>
      There is a reason additional to its economy why this practice
      should not die out. The tearing up into strips of old
      garments, and the tacking of their ends together with needle
      and thread is work eminently suited for children, and one in
      which they take great pride, as it gives them a share in the
      creation of a useful and beautiful household article.
    </p>
    <p>
      The dining-room should be decorated in accordance with the
      quantity of daylight it receives. It should be, if possible,
      a light room, with preferably the morning sun. In this case,
      it is properly furnished and decorated in dark tones, on the
      order of the library; if the room is dark, the furniture,
      wood-finish, and wall-paper should be warm and light in
      feeling. The housekeeper has a wide variety of sets of dining
      table and chairs to choose from. Whatever she selects should
      be distinguished by the quality of dignity. Here is the one
      room in the house where formality is thoroughly in place; it
      is at table where bad manners are wont most to show
      themselves among children, and laxity in etiquette among
      their parents. Just as the exclusive use of the room for
      eating purposes saves labor in housework, so will its dignity
      in decoration aid in enforcing the mother's teaching of good
      habits to the children.
    </p>
    <p>
      Here, if anywhere in the house, plain wall-paper should be
      used, since the chief decorations are the china closet,
      cabinet and sideboard.
    </p>
    <p>
      The dining-room ought not to have a fire-place or stove if
      other means of heating it are available, since heat, like
      food, should be equally distributed to those at table.
      Preference in seating should be a matter of honor rather than
      of material advantage.
    </p>
    <p>
      Comfort and cleanliness are the qualities which condition the
      equipment and decoration of the bed-room. When one considers
      that a third of a man's life is spent in bed, it will be seen
      how exceedingly important is the selection of this article of
      furniture. The essential parts of a good bed are spring and
      mattress, and no expense should be spared here in securing
      the best. The frame, which though the ornamental part is the
      least essential, is a matter of indifferent consideration.
      There is no better kind of a bedstead than an iron or brass
      one, because of cleanliness and strength and the ease with
      which it may be taken apart and put together again. The
      pillows deserve almost equal consideration with the mattress.
      Since the feathers used in stuffing pillows may be cleaned,
      it is economical to see that these are of the best quality.
      Bed clothing is often selected under the mistaken impression
      that weight is synonymous with warmth, and heavy quilted
      comforts are chosen instead of lighter, woolen blankets. The
      pure woolen blanket is the ideal bed-covering and in various
      degrees of thickness may serve for all of the bed clothes
      save the sheets, and the light white coverlet, which is
      placed over all merely for appearance.
    </p>
    <p>
      With increasing attention paid to hygiene, single beds rather
      than double are coming into favor. Even where two people
      occupy the same room they will be more comfortable in
      different beds. It is a mistake for young people and infants
      to sleep with older people, or for those who are well and
      strong with sickly or delicate persons, as there is apt to be
      a loss of vitality to the more vigorous party.
    </p>
    <p>
      Everything connected with the bed should be regularly and
      thoroughly sunned and aired. The occupant on rising should
      throw back the bed-clothes over the foot of the bed, or,
      indeed, take them off and hang them over a chair in the
      sunlight.
    </p>
    <p>
      The first thing in making a bed should be to turn the
      mattress. The lower sheet is then put on right side up and
      with the large end at the top. This is tucked in carefully
      all around, then the covering sheet is put on with the large
      end at the top, but the right side under. This is tucked in
      only at the foot in order to permit the bed to be easily
      entered. Over these the blankets are placed and folded back
      at the head under the fold of the upper sheet. Pillow-shams
      should never be used, as ornamentation on a bed is not
      necessary, and if it were a sham is never an ornament.
    </p>
    <p>
      The walls of bedrooms may very properly be painted, as also
      the floors, to permit scrubbing, especially after the illness
      of an occupant. If papered, a chintz pattern is preferable;
      cretonne of similar design should then be used for furniture
      slips, etc. The woodwork may be white, with the chairs to
      match. There should be washable cotton rag-rugs, loosely
      woven to be grateful to the bare feet, at the bedside and in
      front of the bureau, dressing-table and doorway. Where space
      is limited, a combined bureau and dressing-table, or even a
      chiffonier with a mirror, may be used.
    </p>
    <p>
      A child's bedroom may very appropriately have a wall-paper of
      a design intended to interest it, such as representations of
      animals, scenes from Mother Goose, etc. This is also suitable
      for the nursery.
    </p>
    <p>
      The guest-room has come to be the <i>chambre de luxe</i> of
      the house, the place in which every conceivable article is
      introduced that might be required by the visitor, all being
      of expensive quality. Probably it is best to conform to this
      practice, since it is an expected thing, but money spent on
      the guest-room beyond that necessary to make it simply the
      best bedroom in the house, brings smaller returns in usage
      than anywhere else. The average guest is more pleased with a
      room such as he sleeps in himself at home, than with one
      where elegance seems too fine for use. It was a plainsman,
      who, being lodged in such a room on a visit to civilization,
      slept on the floor rather than touch the immaculate
      pillow-shams and bed-cover, which he conceived to be parts of
      the bed clothing not designed for use.
    </p>
    <p>
      The window-shades of a house, since they show without, should
      be uniform in color, and no attempt be made to suit the
      individual decoration of a room to them. The material should
      be plain Holland, white or buff when there are outside
      blinds, otherwise green or blue. In recent years shutters, or
      outside blinds, have come somewhat into disuse. This is, on
      the whole, perhaps an improvement, for they are rarely
      manipulated with judgment, being either left open or kept
      shut for continuous periods. In the latter case they darken
      rooms which, though unused, would have been better for the
      admission of sunlight. The reason for this lack of
      manipulation is that they are opened and fastened with
      difficulty from the inside. All the purpose of the outside
      blinds is served by inside blinds, which are much more easily
      operated, and lend themselves admirably to decoration. One
      form of these, known as Venetian blinds, consisting of
      parallel wooden slats, strung on tapes, is coming again into
      vogue. They are cheaper than the usual sort of blinds, and
      are very durable as well as artistic. After all, however,
      shades are the most practical form of modulating the entrance
      of light into a house.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch08"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER VIII
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE MOTHER
    </h3>
    <p>
      Nursing the Child&#8212;The Mother's
      Diet&#8212;Weaning&#8212;The Nursing-bottle&#8212;Milk for
      the Baby&#8212;Graduated Approach to Solid Diet&#8212;The
      Baby's Table Manners&#8212;His Bath&#8212;Cleansing His Eyes
      and Nose&#8212;Relief of Colic&#8212;Care of the Diaper.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      But one upon earth is more beautiful and better than the
      wife&#8212;that is the mother.&#8212;L. SCHEFER.
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      Tennyson says, "The bearing and the training of a child is
      woman's wisdom." Herein nature is ever urging her to the
      proper course. Thus the love of the newborn infant prompts
      the mother to feed him with her own milk, and this supplies
      exactly the elements he requires for healthy development. No
      other milk, however skillfully modulated, no "infant's food,"
      however scientifically prepared, can fully take its place.
    </p>
    <p>
      Unless illness prevents her from feeding her own child, or
      she is of a moody and unhappy disposition, it is the mother's
      place to give her breast to the infant. The condition of mind
      of the mother has a great deal to do with the quality of the
      milk. A despondent and excitable temperament is often more
      productive of harm than a low physical condition. It is
      hardly necessary to warn the mother to be careful of her
      diet, as this has immediate effect on the quality of the
      milk. Of course, any drink containing alcohol must be
      avoided. Tea and coffee, except when taken in weak strength,
      have also a deleterious effect. Milk, and next to it, cocoa,
      are the best beverages for the mother. Mothers should also
      avoid taking medicine except when positively required.
    </p>
    <p>
      There is no need for the mother to vary greatly her solid
      diet. She will naturally select that which is most nutritious
      and easily digested. Anything that tends to make her costive,
      such as fruits or green vegetables, should be partaken of
      with discrimination.
    </p>
    <p>
      The baby should be fed with systematic regularity from the
      beginning. While a child does not need food for the first day
      after birth, nevertheless it is well to put it to the breast
      about six hours after birth, since for the first few days
      after child-birth the breasts secrete a laxative element
      which acts as a sort of physic upon the child, clearing its
      bowels of a black, tarry substance, that fills them. The full
      supply of normal milk comes after the third day. After the
      first feeding the baby should be put to the breast every four
      hours for the first day and after that every two hours, being
      kept there about twenty minutes each time. The mother should
      be watchful and see that the child is awake and is nursing.
      Even at this early age it can be compelled to learn a good
      habit. Unless it learns this habit, the mother will be put to
      great inconvenience and the baby will suffer because of the
      disarrangement of the systematic feeding. If he is allowed to
      nurse at his own pleasure, the results will quickly make
      themselves manifest in the form of colic, leading to
      wakefulness and bad temper.
    </p>
    <p>
      A baby should not remain awake more than four hours in the
      day on the whole, and he should be so trained that the eight
      hours from ten o'clock at night to six in the morning, when
      his mother is sleeping, should be for him also an
      uninterrupted period of slumber.
    </p>
    <p>
      The baby should be weaned at ten months unless he is unwell
      at the time or the weaning comes in the heat of the summer,
      when there is danger of his becoming sickly or peevish.
      Preparatory to weaning, the baby should be accustomed to the
      bottle. Provided the bottle holds half a pint or four
      glasses, the number of bottles may be increased from one a
      day at four months to two or six at eight months. The baby
      should certainly be weaned by the time it is a year old, as,
      even though the mother continues to have a plentiful supply
      of milk, this is not suited to his needs at this stage of his
      physical development. By this method of approach the act of
      permanently refusing the breast to the child will not greatly
      offend him. After a little crying he will philosophically
      accept the situation and reconcile himself to the substitute.
    </p>
    <p>
      Weaning is rendered easier by selecting a nursing-bottle
      which has the nipple in the shape of the breast. Care should
      be taken that the hole in the nipple is not too large,
      supplying more milk than the stomach can take care of as it
      comes, and so causing stomachic disorder. The nursing bottle
      should at all times be kept thoroughly clean by rinsing in
      hot water and washing in hot soapsuds. The milk for the
      child's bottle should, wherever possible, be what is called
      "certified," that is, the milk from a herd of cows which have
      been declared by the proper authorities to be all in good
      health, and which have been milked under sanitary conditions.
      This milk is delivered in clean, sealed bottles, preventing
      the admission of any dirt or deleterious substance from the
      time it leaves the dairy till opened. The milk for the baby
      should not be purchased from the can.
    </p>
    <p>
      Milk that has been sterilized, that is, bottled and put in
      boiling water for an hour, is not so good for the baby as
      pasteurized milk; that is, milk kept at something less than
      the boiling point for half an hour, since the higher
      temperature causes the milk to lose some of the qualities
      beneficial to the child.
    </p>
    <p>
      Since cow's milk differs in its constituents from mother's,
      having more fat and less sugar, there will be need at first
      to modify the cow's milk, weakening and sweetening it
      somewhat. One good recipe for modifying cows' milk is: One
      part milk, two parts cream, two parts lime-water, three parts
      sugar water, the sugar water being made by putting two even
      teaspoonfuls of sugar of milk in a pint of water.
    </p>
    <p>
      Condensed milk, which is often used as a substitute for cows'
      milk, is not nearly so good, since it has lost in the process
      of condensation one of the most important elements, that
      which forms bone tissue. Accordingly, babies fed upon
      condensed milk are apt to be "rickety," and they lack in
      general power to resist disease, which is primarily the mark
      of a baby fed on mother's milk, and to a slightly lesser
      degree, one fed upon cows' milk.
    </p>
    <p>
      The stomach grows very rapidly during infancy, increasing
      from a capacity of one ounce soon after birth to eight ounces
      at the end of the year, and this should be taken into account
      by the increase of the amount supplied it. After the first
      week, a baby should increase in weight at the rate of one
      pound a month for the first six months. If he falls behind
      this rate and remains healthy, more sugar and fat may be
      introduced into his milk. If, however, he fails to gain
      weight and is sickly, the milk should be diluted and modified
      so as to make it easier of digestion.
    </p>
    <p>
      Every mother should be warned against a common practice of
      starting the flow of milk from the nipple of the bottle by
      putting it in her mouth. Gums and teeth are rarely perfectly
      clean, and so form the favorite lurking place for disease
      germs, which, though they may not produce disease in the
      stronger body of the adult, may do so and often do so in the
      more susceptible physique of the child.
    </p>
    <p>
      Just as the child was trained to the bottle while it was
      still taking the mother's milk, so it should be taught
      gradually to eat solids while it is fed upon the bottle.
      After the child has been weaned at the tenth month, he can be
      fed occasionally on broths or beef juice as a substitute for
      one of the milk feedings. The broth is more of a stimulant
      than a food, aiding digestion rather than supplying
      nourishment.
    </p>
    <p>
      During the eleventh month, the yolk of a soft boiled egg,
      mixed with stale bread crumbs, may be added to the diet,
      together with a little orange juice or prune jelly. The
      latter will tend to keep his bowels free.
    </p>
    <p>
      After twelve months, the child may be gradually accustomed to
      eat stale bread, biscuit or toast, broken in milk, thoroughly
      cooked oatmeal and similar cereals, baked potatoes moistened
      with broth, mashed potatoes moistened with gravy, and rice
      pudding. The pudding is made of two tablespoonfuls of clean
      rice, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-third of a cupful of
      sugar in five cups of milk. Bake in buttered pudding dish
      from two to three hours in slow oven, stirring frequently to
      prevent rice from settling.
    </p>
    <p>
      At the age of two years and a half the child may be permitted
      to eat meat, preferably roast beef or mutton, cooked rare, or
      minced roast poultry.
    </p>
    <p>
      Even though sugar is a very essential ingredient in the
      child's diet, it is very unwise to let it have this outside
      of its regular diet. Pure candy does not hurt the child by
      impairing its digestion so much as by interfering with its
      appetite for plain food. The child should never be allowed to
      form an inordinate appetite for anything, as this is certain
      to cause a corresponding deficiency elsewhere in his diet.
    </p>
    <p>
      Even worse than the practice of giving candy to very young
      children is that of teaching them to drink tea and coffee.
      These are pure stimulants, supplying no tissue-building
      element, and taking the place of nutritious beverages that
      do, such as milk and cocoa.
    </p>
    <p>
      After a child is old enough to be permitted to partake with
      discrimination of the general food of the table, he should be
      allowed to eat with the family. From the beginning he should
      be taught table manners, the use of knife and fork and
      napkin, and the subordination of his wishes to those of older
      people.
    </p>
    <p>
      Next to feeding the baby properly, the most important duty of
      the mother is to see that it is kept clean. Even in its
      nursing days, after each feeding, she should rinse its mouth
      out by a weak boracic acid solution, since particles of milk
      may remain there which may become a source of infection. It
      is well for similar reason to wash her own breasts with the
      solution.
    </p>
    <p>
      A baby should be bathed regularly at about the same time each
      day. During the first days of a child's life, he should be
      sponged in a warm room, with water at blood heat. In removing
      the garments, the mother should roll the infant gently from
      side to side, rather than lift him bodily. It is well to have
      a flannel cloth or apron ready to cover the child when it is
      being undressed. The baby's face should be washed in clear
      water, firmly and thoroughly with a damp cloth, and dried by
      patting with the towel. Then soap should be added to the
      water and the other parts of the baby's body washed in it;
      first, the head, ears and neck, then the arms, one uncovered
      at a time, then, with the mother's hand reaching under the
      cover, the back, during which process the baby is laid flat
      on the stomach, then the stomach, and last, the legs, one at
      a time, the baby being kept covered by the flannel as much as
      these operations permit.
    </p>
    <p>
      The eyes of infants are prone to inflammation, and therefore
      require special attention in the way of cleansing. This can
      be done best by the use of the boracic solution upon a fresh
      pledget of cotton. Be careful not to use the same piece of
      cotton for both eyes, and to burn it after use. When the nose
      is stopped with mucous, a similar means can be used for
      cleansing it.
    </p>
    <p>
      Every mother should study the individual nature and
      disposition of her child, in order to know what to do for it
      when it cries, for a cry may mean over-feeding as well as
      under-feeding, colic, or a wet diaper. Colic is often quickly
      relieved by turning the baby upon his stomach and rubbing his
      back, or by holding him in front of the fire, or wrapping him
      in a heated blanket. In drying the baby his comfort will be
      greatly increased by the use of talcum powder. Of course,
      soiled diapers should not be put on a child again until they
      are thoroughly washed. It will save the mother much trouble
      if absorbent cotton is placed within the diapers to receive
      the discharges from the bowels. These should be afterwards
      burned.
    </p>
    <p>
      Too many clothes is bad for a young baby. If his stomach be
      well protected by a flannel band and he is kept from
      draughts, his other clothing may be very light, especially in
      summer.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch09"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER IX
    </h2>
    <h3>
      THE MOTHER
    </h3>
    <p>
      The
      School-child&#8212;Breakfast&#8212;Luncheon&#8212;Supper&#8212;Aiding
      the Teacher at Home&#8212;Manual Training&#8212;Utilizing the
      Collecting Mania&#8212;Physical Exercise&#8212;Intellectual
      Exercise&#8212;Forming the Bath
      Habit&#8212;Teething&#8212;Forming the Toothbrush
      Habit&#8212;Shoes for Children&#8212;Dress&#8212;Hats.
    </p>
    <p>
      When the child reaches the school-age especial care should be
      taken of his diet. He should not be allowed to have meat at
      breakfast, except a little bacon with his eggs, one of which
      may be allowed a school-child when young, two when older.
      Well-cooked cereals, such as oatmeal and cream of wheat,
      should form the staple article of diet, though these may be
      varied by the ready-to-eat breakfast foods, such as
      corn-flakes. He should always have either sound fresh fruit,
      or stewed fruit, to eat with the cereal. His bread should
      always be toasted. Muffins are better for him than pancakes
      or waffles, which, however, should be allowed him
      occasionally as a treat.
    </p>
    <p>
      As this kind of a breakfast largely consists of starchy
      foods, it should be eaten slowly, as starch requires thorough
      mastication. The practice of allowing children to lie late in
      bed, and then gulp their breakfast down in a minute or so, in
      order not to be late to school, is most pernicious.
    </p>
    <p>
      The luncheon put up for school-children may consist chiefly
      of sandwiches, preferably several small ones of different
      kinds, rather than one or two large ones. Biscuit sandwiches
      are generally more palatable to a child than plain bread
      ones. Besides those made of cold meat, there should be at
      least one cheese or one salad-and-nut sandwich, and one jelly
      sandwich. A hard-boiled egg, preferably one that has been
      cooked for some time in water kept under boiling point, will
      vary this diet. Of course fruit, such as an apple, an orange,
      or a banana, forms the best dessert. Occasionally cake,
      gingerbread, sweet biscuit, or a piece of milk chocolate may
      be put in the basket for a pleasant surprise.
    </p>
    <p>
      The supper of the school-child while young should be a simple
      one, something on the order of the breakfast. In the early
      days children were fed at night on hasty pudding, or
      mush-and-milk, (cornmeal), which is an ideal food when
      thoroughly prepared, the meal being slowly sprinkled into the
      pot, which was stirred constantly all the while. The North
      Italians prepare cornmeal in this fashion; the mush, which
      they call "polenta," forms an accompaniment of meat stews,
      thus affording all the elements of a "perfect ration."
      American cooks should employ cornmeal far more than they do.
      Mush in particular has the advantage possessed by King
      Arthur's bag-pudding, what cannot be eaten at night may be
      served "next morning fried." While fried food is, as a rule,
      not good at breakfast for any save one who has hard manual
      labor or physical exercise to perform, an exception may be
      made of fried mush and fried eggs, because their base is so
      nutritious that the heated fat can do little to impair their
      digestibility, while it certainly whets the appetite before
      eating, and pleases the palate when the food is in the mouth.
      It should be borne in mind that those foods which require
      much mastication ought especially to be made palatable in
      order to be chewed thoroughly. Therefore, starchy materials
      ought to be prepared in appetizing ways; on the other hand,
      meats, which require less mastication, may dispense with high
      seasoning and rich sauces, especially as they have their own
      natural flavors.
    </p>
    <p>
      The mother should closely follow the work of the child at
      school and aid this in every way at home. She should
      patiently answer his many questions, except when she is
      convinced that he is not really in search of information, but
      is asking them merely for the sake of asking. Wherever the
      child ought to be able to reason out the answer, the mother
      should assist him to do so by asking him guiding questions in
      turn. This is the method that Socrates, the greatest of
      teachers and philosophers, employed with his pupils, and,
      indeed, with his own children. It is as useful in inculcating
      moral lessons as in teaching facts. When one of the sons of
      Socrates, Lamprocles, came to him complaining that the
      mother, Xanthippe, treated him so hardly that he could not
      bear it, the philosopher, by kindly questions, led the boy to
      acknowledge his great debt to her for her care of him in
      infancy and in sickness, and, by showing the many things
      Xanthippe had to try her patience, persuaded him to bear with
      her and to give her that love which was her due.
    </p>
    <p>
      Where manual training is taught in the schools, the mother
      should give every opportunity to her children to practice it
      at home. Where it is not a part of the school course, parents
      should study to devise home substitutes for it, the mother
      teaching the girls sewing, embroidery, etc., and the father
      instructing the boys in carpentry and the like.
    </p>
    <p>
      The desire to collect things, which seizes boys and girls at
      an early age, should be turned into useful channels by
      teachers and parents. Often this valuable instinct is largely
      wasted, as in the collecting of postage-stamps, the impulse
      which it gives to geographical and historical investigation
      being grossly perverted&#8212;for example a little island,
      that once issued a stamp which is now rare, looming larger in
      importance than a great country none of the stamps of which
      have any special value.
    </p>
    <p>
      Every school, or, failing this, every home, should have a
      museum, not so much of curiosities as of typical specimens.
      These may be geological, botanical, faunal or archaeological;
      the rocks and soils and clays of the home country, the
      flowers of plants and sections of wood of trees; the skins of
      animals and birds (taxidermy is a fascinating employment for
      the young) eggs and nests (here the child should be taught to
      be a naturalist and not a vandal), and Indian arrow-heads and
      stone-axes.
    </p>
    <p>
      In this connection it should be suggested that the most
      valuable collection of all is a herbarium of the flowers of
      literature, specimens of which may be found in the home
      library. That a child is not fond of reading is testimony
      that his parents no less than his teachers have failed in
      their duty.
    </p>
    <p>
      Above all, the parents should see that their boys and girls
      have facilities for that physical culture which is necessary
      for health and proper development. Those exercises which are
      both recreative and useful are preferable. Gardening may be
      made a delight instead of a hardship, if the child is allowed
      to enjoy the fruits of his labor. Let him sell the vegetables
      he raises to the family, and, if there is an excess, to the
      neighbors, for pocket money. He will enjoy purchasing his own
      clothing even more than using the money solely for his
      pleasures.
    </p>
    <p>
      Healthful sports should be encouraged, and games, such as
      chess, that develops the intellect. There are many card
      games, such as "Authors," that impart useful instruction in
      literature, history, natural science, business, etc. Playing
      these in the home is a good thing no less for parent than
      child. Many a mother has acquired a well-rounded culture
      after her marriage through her determination to "keep ahead
      of the children" in their studies and intellectual
      activities.
    </p>
    <p>
      The child should be early accustomed to take cold baths, and
      then run about naked in a room under the impulse given by the
      tingling glow of reaction. If a play is made of the bath the
      habit will be formed for life, and in this way, one of the
      mother's chief struggles, to make the children clean
      themselves, will be abolished. It is natural for a child to
      get dirty, and therefore it should be made as habitual an
      impulse for them to get clean again.
    </p>
    <p>
      Of all such habits, keeping the teeth clean is most
      important. Children's teeth are a chief source of anxiety to
      the mother even before they make their appearance.
    </p>
    <p>
      Troubles in teething are generally due to innutritious and
      illy-digested food. Sometimes, however, when the food is all
      right, the teeth will still have difficulty in coming through
      the gums. Whenever the mother observes that her crying child
      refuses to bring its gums together on anything, she should
      examine them, and, if they are swollen, have them lanced.
    </p>
    <p>
      The "milk-teeth," even though they are temporary, should be
      looked after carefully, as their decay will often spread to
      the coming permanent teeth. Besides, they should be preserved
      as long as possible, and in the best condition, to aid in
      mastication. Accordingly, young children should be taught
      regularly to rinse out their mouths and to use a tooth-brush
      and tooth-powder.
    </p>
    <p>
      A child should run barefoot as much as conditions and climate
      permit. When it wears shoes, these should conform as much as
      possible to the shape of the foot. With such footwear, the
      active child may form for life the habit of a natural gait,
      especially if parents will point out the beauty and
      advantages of this, and praise the men and women of their
      acquaintance who possess it. It is about the time when a girl
      is learning <i>Virgil</i> in the High School that she is
      tempted by vanity and the desire to be "like the other girls"
      to put on French heels. Then it is that the teacher or mother
      should quote to her the line of the <i>Aeneid</i> about
      Venus:
    </p>
    <pre>
  "The true goddess is shown by her gait,"
</pre>
    <p>
      and save her from an irreparable folly.
    </p>
    <p>
      If mothers will remember that children are not dolls, and
      that mothers are not children to take pleasure in bedecking
      them, they will need no advice about dressing their little
      ones. There is only one rule for her to follow: She should
      consult the comfort and health of the child, and, as far as
      consistent with these, the convenience to herself. It may be
      "cute" to dress a child like a miniature man or woman, but it
      is cruel to the child. There is no reason for distinguishing
      sex by dress in young children. "Jumpers" form the best dress
      for either a little boy or little girl in which to play. Even
      when they are older and a skirt distinguishes the girl,
      bloomers or knickerbockers of the same material beneath,
      approach the ideal of dress for comfort, health and decency
      more nearly than white petticoat and drawers. Indeed, the
      skirt is best when it is a part of a blouse, which is also a
      suitable dress for a boy. A child should never be tortured
      with a large or stiff hat. The heads of children come up to
      the middles of men and women, and such a hat will be crushed
      in a crowd, and its poor little wearer placed in mortal
      terror. Indeed, children should be allowed to go bareheaded
      as much as possible, and, when they wear hats, have these
      simple in shape and soft in material. The plain cap is the
      best head covering for a boy. The girl's may be a little more
      ornamental, especially in color. The universal seizure by the
      sex upon the boy's "Tam o'Shanter" as peculiarly suited for a
      play and school-hat, is therefore right and proper. For a
      more showy style, lingerie hats are justified. But the most
      beautiful and appropriate form of the "best hat" for a little
      girl is one of uniform material, straw, cloth or felt, with
      simple crown, and wide, and more or less soft brim,
      ornamented by a ribbon alone. The addition of a single flower
      may be permitted, though this is like the admission of the
      camel's nose into the tent,&#8212;it may lead to the entrance
      of the hump&#8212;the monstrosity of the modern woman's
      bonnet, which of late years has by terms imitated a flower
      garden, a vegetable garden, an orchard, and, finally, with
      the Chanticler fad, a poultry-yard.
    </p>
    <p>
      The knickerbocker and the short skirt are aesthetic, that is
      eye-pleasing, because they mark a natural division of the
      body at the knee. There is an artistic justification,
      therefore, in mothers keeping their sons out of "long pants"
      as long as possible, and in fathers (for it is they who are
      the chief objectors) in opposing their daughters' desire to
      don the dust-sweeping skirt that marks attainment to
      womanhood. Here, however, it is proper that the wishes of the
      younger generation triumph. It is a social instinct to
      conform to the custom of one's fellows, and the children have
      reached "the age of consent" in matters of fashion. Their
      fathers and mothers may lend their influence to abolish
      foolish customs, or to modify them in the direction of
      wisdom, but it is best that this be in their capacity as
      citizens, and not as parents.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch10"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER X
    </h2>
    <h3>
      CARE OF THE PERSON
    </h3>
    <p>
      The Mother's Duty Toward Herself&#8212;Her
      Dress&#8212;Etiquette and Good Manners&#8212;The Golden
      Rule&#8212;Pride in Personal Appearance&#8212;The Science of
      Beauty Culture&#8212;Manicuring as a Home
      Employment&#8212;Recipes for Toilet
      Preparations&#8212;Nail-biting&#8212;Fragile
      Nails&#8212;White Spots&#8212;Chapped Hands&#8212;Care of the
      Skin&#8212;Facial Massage&#8212;Recipes for Skin
      Lotions&#8212;Treatment of Facial Blemishes and
      Disorders&#8212;Care of the Hair&#8212;Diseases of the Scalp
      and Hair&#8212;Gray Hair&#8212;Care of Eyebrows and
      Eyelashes.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      Certainly this is a duty, not a sin. "Cleanliness is indeed
      next to godliness."&#8212;JOHN WESLEY&#8212;<i>On Dress.</i>
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      In all her multitudinous concerns the housekeeper should not
      forget her duties toward herself. Many a mother in looking
      out that her children are a credit to the family in dress and
      manners and care of their persons, gives up all thought of
      standing as an exemplar of these things among the ladies of
      the community. This is a sacrifice of self that is not
      commendable, since it defeats its purpose. The mother should
      always be herself an illustration of the lessons she teaches,
      else they will not be seriously considered.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is impossible here to give more than a few general
      suggestions as to the dress and millinery of the mother. She
      should have a variety of simple house-dresses, suited to her
      various duties, and these should be kept as neat as possible.
      Each should be made for its purpose, not converted to it from
      one of her fine dresses. Nothing gives an impression of
      slatternliness more than the wearing about the house of a
      frayed and soiled garment "that has seen better days."
    </p>
    <p>
      The best dresses and hats of a woman, even one who goes
      little "into society," should also be sufficient in number
      and varied in style to suit the changing seasons of the year,
      and the widely differing occasions for use which occur in
      every station of life. The purchase of several good articles
      of attire rather than one or two is economical in the end.
      There is not only the obvious mathematical reason that, if
      one dress wears a year, four dresses must be bought in four
      years, whether this is done simultaneously or successively,
      but there is the physical reason that a dress, like a person,
      that has regular periods of rest, becomes restored in
      quality. Accordingly, all dresses should be laid very
      carefully away when not in use, and the proper means taken to
      refresh them.
    </p>
    <p>
      Unfortunately the arbitrary and senseless changes in fashion
      render this practice hard to follow. No woman likes to look
      out of style. However, by a little cleverness garments and
      hats may be adapted to the prevailing mode (although the
      arbiters of fashion, in the interests of manufacturers, try
      by violent changes of style to render this impracticable).
      These adaptations may not be in the height of fashion, but
      they will be in good form and taste. Indeed, it is never good
      taste to follow extremes of style. The well-known lines of
      Pope on the subject hold true in every age:
    </p>
    <pre>
  "....in fashions the rule will hold,
  Alike fantastic if too new or old;
  Be not the first by whom the new are tried,
  Nor yet the last to lay the old aside."
</pre>
    <p>
      Some of the best-dressed women in artistic and musical
      circles design their clothes wholly to suit their personal
      appearance, with such success that their independence of the
      prevailing mode of large or small hats or sleeves, striped or
      checked fabrics, etc., wins universal admiration.
    </p>
    <p>
      Remember that a dress or a hat is never a "creation" in
      itself. The wearer must always be considered. Short, stout
      women should avoid horizontal stripes or lines of
      ornamentation that call attention to breadth, and should
      choose those perpendicular stripes and lines which tend to
      give an impression of height and slenderness. A hat lining
      may be used to put rosiness into a pale face, and a color may
      be selected for a dress which will neutralize too much
      redness in the skin. But these are matters of common
      knowledge to all women. The trouble is, that in their desire
      to be "in style," many women forget, or even deliberately
      ignore these fundamental principles of art in dress. Fondness
      for a particular color, as a color, causes many women to wear
      it, regardless of its relation to their complexion; and there
      have been women of mystical mind who, believing that each
      quality of soul had its correspondent in a particular hue,
      wore those colors which they thought were significant of
      their chief traits of character&#8212;with weird results, as
      you may imagine.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is unnecessary, in this book of "practical suggestions,"
      to discuss in detail the question of etiquette, which may be
      defined as "the prevailing fashion in social intercourse."
      Styles in visiting cards change from year to year, and the
      social usages of one city differ from another. If it is
      required to know these, the latest special work on etiquette
      should be procured.
    </p>
    <p>
      The general principles of good manners, however, which lie at
      the basis of etiquette, just as good morals form the
      foundation of law, although there are discrepancies in both
      cases, may appropriately be presented here, though briefly.
    </p>
    <p>
      Good manners and good morals alike follow the Golden Rule:
      "Whatsoever ye would that others should do to you, do ye even
      so to them." Egotism and selfishness are the bane of both.
      True politeness consists in considering the pleasure of
      others as a thing in itself, without regard to your own
      advantage. If an attention is paid, a gift given, a service
      rendered, these should be done solely for the recipient's
      happiness, not with a view to his making a return in kind,
      possibly with interest. It is good manners to call on people
      who will be pleased to see you; not on those whom you wish to
      see, but to whom you and your affairs are of no concern. A
      first visit to a newcomer in town is right and proper. A
      stranger is presumed to be desirous of making friends, but
      the first call ought to indicate whether or not he and you
      have that community of interest which is essential to
      friendship. If you are the newcomer, it is your duty to show
      your appreciation of the attention by returning first calls,
      but you should so act that your hosts will feel free to
      continue the acquaintance if it will be agreeable to them, or
      discontinue it if it is not. Indeed, in every situation you
      should give the other party this choice. Friendship is one of
      the most valuable forms of social energy, and it should
      carefully be conserved. Yet more than any other form it is
      wasted, because of a false regard for social conventions. At
      how many calls are both parties bored! How many
      persons&#8212;women in particular, who have not the man's
      freedom in selecting associates&#8212;continue in the
      treadmill round of an uncongenial social circle! To escape
      from this may require the special exercise of will, and the
      incurring of criticism, but these ought to be assumed.
      However, in most cases, a woman may gradually escape from the
      distasteful circle and form new and more congenial friends
      without remark.
    </p>
    <p>
      After the brightening effects on mind and spirits of social
      intercourse comes the advantage of toning up the personal
      appearance. A decent self-respect in dress should always be
      flavored with a touch of pride, for this is an excellent
      preservative. To have a proper pride, there must be the
      incentive of the presence of other people whose admiration we
      may win. Pride in dress is naturally conjoined with the care
      of the person. There is an excellent term for this, which,
      though borrowed from the stable, carries with it only sweet
      and wholesome suggestions. It is "well-groomed." A
      well-groomed woman is not only a well-gowned woman, but one
      who, like a favorite mare, is always spick and span in her
      person, and happy in her quiet consciousness of it. And every
      woman, whether she possesses a maid or not, indeed, whether
      she has fine gowns or not, may win the admiration of all her
      associates by her "grooming."
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch11"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER XI
    </h2>
    <h3>
      GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
    </h3>
    <p>
      The Prevalence of Good Recipes for All Save Meat
      Dishes&#8212;Increased Cost of Meat Makes These
      Desirable&#8212;No Need to Save Expense by Giving Up
      Meat&#8212;The "Government Cook Book"&#8212;Value of Meat as
      Food&#8212;Relative Values and Prices of the Cuts of Meat.
    </p>
    <pre>
  We may live without poetry, music and art;
  We may live without conscience, and live without heart;
  We may live without friends; we may live without books;
  But civilized man cannot live without cooks.
  ("OWEN MEREDITH")&#8212;<i>Lucile</i>.
</pre>
    <p>
      All the other duties of the housewife are subsidiary to the
      great subject of preparing food for the household. The care
      of the home, the care of health, etc., all either bear upon
      this work or require ability to perform it.
    </p>
    <p>
      With decks cleared for action, therefore, we will proceed to
      discuss the fundamental principles of cookery, the
      application of which, in the form of specific recipes, will
      follow in a separate chapter.
    </p>
    <p>
      In the limited space which can be here devoted to the
      subject, it will be assumed that the housewife is a cook, and
      can follow plain directions, and that she is familiar with
      the methods of preparing the ordinary meals that are
      universal throughout the country. It will be also taken for
      granted that she has one or more general cook books
      containing a wide variety of recipes for the making of bread
      in its various forms, cakes, pies, omelettes, salads,
      desserts, etc., and the discussion will be confined to meats,
      wherein, owing to advancing prices, new economical methods of
      preparation are coming into practice, based upon a scientific
      knowledge of food values.
    </p>
    <p>
      Vegetarianism and fruitarianism are being adopted by many
      households, less as a matter of principle than as a recourse
      from what are considered the present prohibitive prices of
      meats. Now the proper way to solve a problem is not to evade
      it, but to face it and conquer it, and this is eminently true
      of the meat problem. Granted that the proportion of family
      income devoted to food cannot be increased, it is a fact
      that, by an intelligent study of the food value of the
      different kinds of meat, and of economic ways of preparing
      them, the expense of living may be maintained at the former
      rate, if not, indeed, materially lessened, with a great
      increase in both the nutritive value and the palatability of
      the family meals.
    </p>
    <p>
      The "new nationalism" of America, which, after all, is only
      the turning to newer needs of the old nationalism that gave
      homesteads to the people and supplied them with improved
      methods of agriculture, is rightly taking the lead in the
      scientific education of the housekeeper in this household
      economy.
    </p>
    <p>
      With special regard to the requirements of the people in
      these days of rising prices, especially of meats, the United
      States Department of Agriculture has issued a booklet,
      prepared by C.F. Langworthy, Ph.D., and Caroline L. Hunt,
      A.B., experts in nutrition connected with the Department,
      which gives authoritative information about the cheaper cuts
      of meat and the preparation of inexpensive meat dishes. This
      has become generally known as "The Government Cook Book." By
      the permission of the Department we here present portions of
      the information it contains, together with those recipes
      which best illustrate the principles of meat cookery for the
      home table.
    </p>
    <h4>
      VALUE OF MEAT AS FOOD
    </h4>
    <p>
      Considering the fact that meat forms such an important part
      of the diet, and the further fact that the price of meat, as
      of other foods, has advanced in recent years, it is natural
      for housekeepers to seek more economical methods of preparing
      meat for the table, and to turn their thoughts toward the
      less expensive cuts and ask what economy is involved in their
      use, how they may be prepared, and whether the less expensive
      dishes are as nutritious and as thoroughly and easily
      digested as the costlier ones.
    </p>
    <p>
      The value of meat as food depends chiefly on the presence of
      two classes of nutrients, (1) protein or nitrogenous
      compounds, and (2) fat. The mineral matter it contains,
      particularly the phosphorus compounds, is also of much
      importance, though it is small in quantity. Protein is
      essential for the construction and maintenance of the body,
      and both protein and fat yield energy for muscular power and
      for keeping up the temperature of the body. Fat is especially
      important as a source of energy. It is possible to combine
      the fat and protein of animal foods so as to meet the
      requirements of the body with such materials only, and this
      is done in the Arctic regions, where vegetable food is
      lacking; but in general it is considered that diet is better
      and more wholesome when, in addition to animal foods, such as
      meat, which is rich in proteins and fats, it contains
      vegetable foods, which are richest in sugar, starch, and
      other carbohydrates. Both animal and vegetable foods supply
      the mineral substances which are essential to body growth and
      development.
    </p>
    <p>
      The difference between the various cuts of meat consists
      chiefly in amount of fat and consequently in the fuel value
      to the body. So far as the proteins are concerned, i.e., the
      substances which build and repair the important tissues of
      the body, very little difference is found.
    </p>
    <p>
      This general uniformity in proportion of protein makes it
      easy for the housekeeper who does not wish to enter into the
      complexities of food values to make sure that her family is
      getting enough of this nutrient. From the investigations
      carried on in the Office of Experiment Stations the
      conclusion has been drawn that of the total amount of protein
      needed every day, which is usually estimated to be 100 grams
      or 3-1/2 ounces, one-half or 50 grams is taken in the form of
      animal food, which of course includes milk, eggs, poultry,
      fish, etc., as well as meat. The remainder is taken in the
      form of bread and other cereal foods and beans and other
      vegetables. The portion of cooked meat which may be referred
      to as an ordinary "helping," 3 to 5 ounces (equivalent to
      3-1/2 to 5-1/2 ounces of raw meat), may be considered to
      contain some 19 to 29 grams of protein, or approximately half
      of the amount which is ordinarily secured from animal food.
      An egg or a glass of milk contains about 8 grams more, so the
      housekeeper who gives each adult member of her family a
      helping of meat each day and eggs, milk, or cheese, together
      with the puddings or other dishes which contain eggs and
      milk, can feel sure that she is supplying sufficient protein,
      for the remainder necessary will be supplied by bread,
      cereals, and other vegetable food.
    </p>
    <p>
      The nutrition investigations of the Office of Experiment
      Stations show also that there is practically no difference
      between the various cuts of meat or the meats from different
      animals with respect to either the thoroughness or the ease
      with which they are digested. Therefore, those who wish to
      use the cheaper cuts need not feel that in so doing their
      families are less well nourished than by the more expensive
      meats.
    </p>
    <h4>
      RELATIVE VALUES AND PRICES OF THE CUTS OF MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      The relative retail prices of the various cuts usually bear a
      direct relation to the favor with which they are regarded by
      the majority of persons, the juicy tender cuts of good flavor
      selling for the higher prices. When porterhouse steak sells
      for 25 cents a pound, it may be assumed that in town or
      village markets round steak would ordinarily sell for about
      15 cents, and chuck ribs, one of the best cuts of the
      forequarter, for 10 cents. This makes it appear that the
      chuck ribs are less than half as expensive as porterhouse
      steak and two-thirds as expensive as the round. But apparent
      economy is not always real economy, and in this case the
      bones in the three cuts should be taken into account. Of the
      chuck ribs, more than one-half is bone or other materials
      usually classed under the head of "waste" or "refuse." Of the
      round, one-twelfth is waste, and of the porterhouse
      one-eighth. In buying the chuck, then, the housewife gets, at
      the prices assumed, less than one-half pound of food for 10
      cents, making the net price of the edible portion 22 cents a
      pound; in buying round, she gets eleven-twelfths of a pound
      for 15 cents, making the net value about 16-1/2 cents; in
      buying porterhouse, she gets seven-eighths of a pound for 25
      cents, making the net value about 28-1/2 cents a pound. The
      relative prices, therefore, of the edible portions are 22,
      16-1/2, and 28-1/2 cents; or to put it in a different way, a
      dollar at the prices assumed will buy 4-1/2 pounds of solid
      meat from the cut, known as chuck, 6 pounds of such meat from
      the round, and only 3-1/2 pounds of such meat from the
      porterhouse. To this should be added the fact that because of
      the way in which porterhouse is usually cooked no nutriment
      is obtained from the bone, while by the long slow process by
      which the cheaper cuts, except when they are broiled or
      fried, are prepared the gelatin, fat, and flavoring material
      of the bone are extracted. The bones of meats that are cooked
      in water, therefore, are in a sense not all refuse, for they
      contain some food which may be secured by proper cookery.
    </p>
    <p>
      It is true, of course, that the bones of the steaks may be
      used for soup making, and that the nourishment may thus be
      utilized, but this must be done by a separate process from
      that of cooking the steak itself.
    </p>
    <h4>
      TEXTURE AND FLAVOR OF MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      Although meats vary greatly in the amount of fat which they
      contain and to a much less degree in their protein content,
      the chief difference to be noted between the cheaper and more
      expensive cuts is not so much in their nutritive value as in
      their texture and flavor. All muscle consists of tiny fibers
      which are tender in young animals and in those parts of older
      animals in which there has been little muscular strain. Under
      the backbone in the hind quarter is the place from which the
      tenderest meat comes. This is usually called the tenderloin.
      Sometimes in beef and also in pork it is taken out whole and
      sometimes it is left to be cut up with the rest of the loin.
      In old animals, and in those parts of the body where there
      has been much muscular action, the neck and the legs for
      example, the muscle fibers are tough and hard. But there is
      another point which is of even greater importance than this.
      The fibers of all muscle are bound together in bundles and in
      groups of bundles by a thin membrane which is known as
      connective tissue. This membrane, if heated in water or
      steam, is converted into gelatin. The process goes quickly if
      the meat is young and tender; more slowly if it is tough.
      Connective tissue is also soluble in acetic acid, that acid
      to which the sourness of vinegar is due. For this reason it
      is possible to make meat more tender by soaking it in vinegar
      or in vinegar and water, the proportions of the two depending
      on the strength of the vinegar. Sour beef or "sauer fleisch,"
      as it is known to Germans, is a palatable dish of this sort.
      Since vinegar is a preservative this suggests a method by
      which a surplus of beef may be kept for several days and then
      converted into a palatable dish.
    </p>
    <p>
      Flavor in meat depends mainly on certain nitrogenous
      substances which are called extractives because they can be
      dissolved out or "extracted" by soaking the meat in cold
      water. The quality of the extractives and the resulting
      flavor of the meat vary with the condition of the animal and
      in different parts of its body. They are usually considered
      better developed in older than in very young animals. Many
      persons suppose extractives or the flavor they cause are best
      in the most expensive cuts of meat; in reality, cuts on the
      side of beef are often of better flavor than tender cuts, but
      owing to the difficulty of mastication this fact is
      frequently not detected. The extractives have little or no
      nutritive value in themselves, but they are of great
      importance in causing the secretion of digestive juices at
      the proper time, in the right amount, and of the right
      chemical character. It is this quality which justifies the
      taking of soup at the beginning of a meal and the giving of
      broths, meat extracts, and similar preparations to invalids
      and weak persons. These foods have little nutritive material
      in themselves, but they are great aids to the digestion of
      other foods.
    </p>
    <p>
      The amount of the extractives which will be brought out into
      the water when meat is boiled depends upon the size of the
      pieces into which the meat is cut and on the length of time
      they are soaked in cold water before being heated. A good way
      to hinder the escape of the flavoring matter is to sear the
      surface of the meat quickly by heating it in fat, or the same
      end may be attained by plunging it into boiling water. Such
      solubility is taken advantage of in making beef tea at home
      and in the manufacture of meat extract, the extracted
      material being finally concentrated by evaporating the water.
    </p>
    <h4>
      GENERAL METHODS OF COOKING MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      The advantages of variety in the methods of preparing and
      serving are to be considered even more seriously in the
      cooking of the cheaper cuts than in the cooking of the more
      expensive ones, and yet even in this connection it is a
      mistake to lose sight of the fact that, though there is a
      great variety of dishes, the processes involved are few in
      number.
    </p>
    <p>
      An experienced teacher of cooking, a woman who has made very
      valuable contributions to the art of cookery by showing that
      most of the numerous processes outlined and elaborately
      described in the cook books can be classified under a very
      few heads, says that she tries "to reduce the cooking of meat
      to its lowest terms and teach only three ways of cooking. The
      first is the application of intense heat to keep in the
      juices. This is suitable only for portions of clear meat
      where the fibers are tender. By the second method the meats
      are put in cold water and cooked at a low temperature. This
      is suitable for bone, gristle, and the toughest portions of
      the meat which for this purpose should be divided into small
      bits. The third is a combination of these two processes and
      consists of searing and then stewing the meat. This is
      suitable for halfway cuts, i. e., those that are neither
      tender nor very tough." The many varieties of meat dishes are
      usually only a matter of flavor and garnish.
    </p>
    <p>
      In other words, of the three processes the first is the short
      method; it aims to keep all the juices within the meat. The
      second is a very long method employed for the purpose of
      getting all or most of the juices out. The third is a
      combination of the two not so long as the second and yet
      requiring so much time that there is danger of the meat being
      rendered tasteless unless certain precautions are taken, such
      as searing in hot fat or plunging into boiling water.
    </p>
    <p>
      There is a wide difference between exterior and interior cuts
      of meat with respect to tenderness induced by cooking. When
      beef flank is cooked by boiling for two hours, the toughness
      of the fibers greatly increases during the first half hour of
      the cooking period, and then diminishes so that at the end of
      the cooking period the meat is found to be in about the same
      condition with respect to toughness or tenderness of the
      fibers as at the beginning. On the other hand, in case of the
      tenderloin, there is a decrease in toughness of the fibers
      throughout the cooking period which is particularly marked in
      the first few minutes of cooking, and at the end of the
      cooking period the meat fibers are only half as tough as
      before cooking.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch12"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER XII
    </h2>
    <h3>
      GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF COOKING
    </h3>
    <p>
      Texture and Flavor of Meat&#8212;General Methods of Cooking
      Meat&#8212;Economies in Use of Meat.
    </p>
    <p>
      A good idea of the changes which take place while meat is
      being cooked can be obtained by examining a piece of flesh
      which has been "cooked to pieces," as the saying goes. In
      this the muscular fibers may be seen completely separated one
      from another, showing that the connective tissue has been
      destroyed. It is also evident that the fibers themselves are
      of different texture from those in the raw meat. In preparing
      meat for the table it is usual to stop short of the point of
      disintegration, but while the long process of cooking is
      going on the connective tissue is gradually softening and the
      fibers are gradually changing in texture. The former is the
      thing to be especially desired, but the latter is not. For
      this reason it is necessary to keep the temperature below the
      boiling point and as low as is consistent with thorough
      cooking, for cooks seem agreed, as the result of experience
      shows, that slow gentle cooking results in better texture
      than is the case when meat is boiled rapidly. This is the
      philosophy that lies back of the simmering process.
    </p>
    <p>
      Losses of elements vary considerably with the method of
      cooking employed, being of course greatest where small pieces
      of meat are subjected to prolonged cooking. The chief loss in
      weight when meat is cooked is due to the driving off of
      water. When beef is cooked by pan broiling&#8212;that is,
      searing in a hot, greased pan, a common cooking
      process&#8212;no great loss of nutrition results,
      particularly if the fat and other substances adhering to the
      pan are utilized in the preparation of gravy. When beef is
      cooked by boiling, there is a loss of 3 to 20 per cent. of
      material present, though this is not an actual loss if the
      broth is utilized for soup or in some similar way. Even in
      the case of meat which is used for the preparation of beef
      tea or broth, the losses of nutritive material are apparently
      small though much of the flavoring matter has been removed.
      The amount of fat found in broth varies directly with the
      amount originally present in the meat; the fatter the meat
      the greater the quantity of fat in the broth. The loss of
      water in cooking varies inversely with the fatness of the
      meat; that is, the fatter the meat the smaller the shrinkage
      due to loss of water. In cooked meat the loss of various
      constituents is inversely proportional to the size of the
      cut. In other words, the smaller the piece of meat the
      greater the percentage of loss. Loss also appears to be
      dependent somewhat upon the length of time the cooking is
      continued. When pieces of meat weighing 1-1/2 to 5 pounds are
      cooked in water somewhat under the boiling point there
      appears to be little difference in the amount of material
      found in broth whether the meat is placed in cold water or
      hot water at the beginning of the cooking period. When meat
      is roasted in the oven the amount of material removed is
      somewhat affected by the character of the roasting pan and
      similar factors, thus the total loss in weight is naturally
      greater in an open than in a closed pan as the open pan
      offers more opportunity for the evaporation of water. Judging
      from the average results of a considerable number of tests,
      it appears that a roast weighing 6 pounds raw should weigh 5
      pounds after cooking, or in other words the loss is about
      one-sixth of the original weight. This means that if the raw
      meat costs 20 cents per pound the cooked would represent an
      increase of 4 cents a pound on the original cost; but this
      increase would, of course, be lessened if all the drippings
      and gravy are utilized.
    </p>
    <h4>
      ECONOMIES IN USE OF MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      The expense for meat in the home may be reduced in several
      ways, and each housekeeper can best judge which to use in her
      own case. From a careful consideration of the subject it
      appears that the various suggestions which have been made on
      the subject may be grouped under the following general heads:
      Economy in selection and purchase so as to take advantage of
      varying market conditions; purchasing meat in wholesale
      quantities for home use; serving smaller portions of meat
      than usual or using meat less frequently; careful attention
      to the use of meat, bone, fat, and small portions commonly
      trimmed off and thrown away and the utilization of left-over
      portions of cooked meat; and the use of the less expensive
      kinds.
    </p>
    <p>
      The choice of cuts should correspond to the needs of the
      family and the preferences of its members. Careful
      consideration of market conditions is also useful, not only
      to make sure that the meat is handled and marketed in a
      sanitary way, but also to take advantage of any favorable
      change in price which may be due, for instance, to a large
      local supply of some particular kind or cut of meat. In towns
      where there is opportunity for choice, it may sometimes be
      found more satisfactory not to give all the family trade to
      one butcher; by going to various markets before buying the
      housekeeper is in a better position to hear of variations in
      prices and so be in a position to get the best values.
      Ordering by telephone or from the butcher's boy at the door
      may be less economical than going to market in person as the
      range of choice and prices is of course more obvious when the
      purchaser sees the goods and has a chance to observe market
      conditions. Each housekeeper must decide for herself whether
      or not the greater convenience compensates for the smaller
      range of choice which such ordering from description entails.
      No matter what the cut, whether expensive or cheap, it can
      not be utilized to the best advantage unless it is well
      cooked. A cheap cut of meat, well cooked, is always
      preferable to a dear one spoiled in the preparation.
    </p>
    <p>
      There is sometimes an advantage in using canned meat and meat
      products, and, if they are of good quality, such products are
      wholesome and palatable.
    </p>
    <p>
      That economy is furthered by careful serving at table is
      obvious. If more meat is given at each serving than the
      person wishes or habitually eats the table waste is unduly
      increased. Economy in all such points is important and not
      beneath the dignity of the family.
    </p>
    <p>
      In many American families meat is eaten two or three times a
      day; in such cases the simplest way of reducing the meat bill
      would very likely be to cut down the amount used, either by
      serving it less often or by using less at a time. Deficiency
      of protein need not be feared when one good meat dish a day
      is served, especially if such nitrogenous materials as eggs,
      milk, cheese, and beans are used instead. In localities where
      fish can be obtained fresh and cheap, it might well be more
      frequently substituted for meat for the sake of variety as
      well as economy. Ingenious cooks have many ways of "extending
      the flavor" of meat, that is, of combining a small quantity
      with other materials to make a large dish, as in meat pies,
      stews, and similar dishes.
    </p>
    <p>
      By buying in large quantities under certain conditions it may
      be possible to procure meat at better prices than those which
      ordinarily prevail in the retail market. The whole side or
      quarter of an animal can frequently be obtained at noticeably
      less cost per pound than when it is bought by cut, and can be
      used to advantage when the housekeeper understands the art
      and has proper storage facilities and a good-sized family.
      When a hind quarter of mutton, for example, comes from the
      market the flank (on which the meat is thin and, as good
      housekeepers believe, likely to spoil more easily than some
      other cuts) should be cooked immediately, or, if preferred,
      it may be covered with a thin layer of fat (rendered suet)
      which can be easily removed when the time for cooking comes.
      The flank, together with the rib bone, ordinarily makes a
      gallon of good Scotch broth. The remainder of the hind
      quarter may be used for roast or chops. The whole pig carcass
      has always been used by families living on the farms where
      the animals are slaughtered, and in village homes; town
      housekeepers not infrequently buy pigs whole and "put down"
      the meat. An animal six months old and weighing about one
      hundred pounds would be suitable for this purpose. The hams
      and thin pieces of belly meat may be pickled and smoked. The
      thick pieces of belly meat, packed in a two-gallon jar and
      covered with salt or brine, will make a supply of fat pork to
      cook with beans and other vegetables. The tenderloin makes
      good roasts, the head and feet may go into head cheese or
      scrapple, and the trimmings and other scraps of lean meat
      serve for a few pounds of home-made sausage. In some large
      families it is found profitable to "corn" a fore quarter of
      beef for spring and summer use. Formerly it was a common farm
      practice to dry beef, but now it seems to be more usual to
      purchase beef which has been dried in large establishments.
      The general use of refrigerators and ice chests in homes at
      the present time has had a great influence on the length of
      time meat may be kept and so upon the amount a housewife may
      buy at a time with advantage.
    </p>
    <p>
      In the percentage of fat present in different kinds and cuts
      of meat, a greater difference exists than in the percentage
      of proteids. The lowest percentage of fat is 8.1 per cent. in
      the shank of beef; the highest is 32 per cent. in pork chops.
      The highest priced cuts, loin and ribs of beef, contain 20 to
      25 per cent. If the fat of the meat is not eaten at the
      table, and is not utilized otherwise, a pecuniary loss
      results. If butter is the fat used in making crusts for meat
      pies, and in preparing the cheaper cuts, there is little
      economy involved; the fats from other meat should therefore
      be saved, as they may be used in place of butter in such
      cases, as well as in preparing many other foods. The fat from
      sausage or from the soup kettle, or from a pot roast, which
      is savory because it has been cooked with vegetables, is
      particularly acceptable. Sometimes savory vegetables, onion,
      or sweet herbs are added to fat when it is tried out to give
      it flavor.
    </p>
    <p>
      Almost any meat bones can be used in soup making, and if the
      meat is not all removed from them the soup is better. But
      some bones, especially the rib bones, if they have a little
      meat left on them, can be grilled or roasted into very
      palatable dishes. The "sparerib" of southern cooks is made of
      the rib bones from a roast of pork, and makes a favorite dish
      when well browned. The braised ribs of beef often served in
      high-class restaurants are made from the bones cut from rib
      roasts. In this connection it may be noted that many of the
      dishes popular in good hotels are made of portions of meat
      such as are frequently thrown away in private houses, but
      which with proper cooking and seasoning make attractive
      dishes and give most acceptable variety to the menu. An old
      recipe for "broiled bones" directs that the bone (beef ribs
      or sirloin bones on which the meat is not left too thick in
      any part) be sprinkled with salt and pepper (Cayenne), and
      broiled over a clear fire until browned. Another example of
      the use of bones is boiled marrow bone. The bones are cut in
      convenient lengths, the ends covered with a little piece of
      dough over which a floured cloth is tied, and cooked in
      boiling water for two hours. After removing the cloth and
      dough, the bones are placed upright on toast and served.
      Prepared as above, the bones may also be baked in a deep
      dish. Marrow is sometimes removed from bones after cooking,
      seasoned, and served on toast.
    </p>
    <p>
      Trimmings from meat may be utilized in various "made dishes,"
      or they can always be put to good use in the soup kettle. It
      is surprising how many economies may be practiced in such
      ways and also in the table use of left-over portions of
      cooked meat if attention is given to the matter. Many of the
      following recipes involve the use of such left-overs. Others
      will suggest themselves or may be found in all the usual
      cookery books.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch13"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER XIII
    </h2>
    <h3>
      RECIPES FOR MEAT DISHES
    </h3>
    <p>
      Trying out Fat&#8212;Extending the Flavor of Meat&#8212;Meat
      Stew&#8212;Meat Dumplings&#8212;Meat Pies and Similar
      Dishes&#8212;Meat with Starchy Materials&#8212;Turkish
      Pilaf&#8212;Stew from Cold Roast&#8212;Meat with
      Beans&#8212;Haricot of Mutton&#8212;Meat Salads&#8212;Meat
      with Eggs&#8212;Roast Beef with Yorkshire
      Pudding&#8212;Corned Beef Hash with Poached
      Eggs&#8212;Stuffing&#8212;Mock Duck&#8212;Veal or Beef
      Birds&#8212;Utilizing the Cheaper Cuts of Meat.
    </p>
    <blockquote>
      "To be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs,
      balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in
      fields and groves, savory in meats. It means carefulness,
      inventiveness, watchfulness, willingness, and readiness of
      appliance. It means the economy of your great-grandmother and
      the science of modern chemistry; it means much tasting and no
      wasting; it means English thoroughness, French art, and
      Arabian hospitality; it means, in fine, that you are to be
      perfectly and always ladies (loaf-givers), and are to see
      that everybody has something nice to eat."&#8212;JOHN RUSKIN.
    </blockquote>
    <h3>
      RECIPES
    </h3>
    <p>
      (In these directions a <i>level</i> spoonful or <i>level</i>
      cupful is called for.)
    </p>
    <h4>
      TRYING OUT FAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      A double boiler is the best utensil to use in trying out
      small portions of fat. There is no danger of burning the fat,
      and the odor is much less noticeable than if it is heated in
      a dish set directly over the fire.
    </p>
    <p>
      Common household methods of extending the meat flavor through
      a considerable quantity of material which would otherwise be
      lacking in distinctive taste are to serve the meat with
      dumplings, generally in the dish with it, to combine the meat
      with crusts, as in meat pies or meat rolls, or to serve the
      meat on toast and biscuits. Borders of rice, hominy, or
      mashed potatoes are examples of the same principles applied
      in different ways. By serving some preparation of flour,
      rice, hominy, or other food rich in starch with the meat we
      get a dish which in itself approaches nearer to the balanced
      ration than meat alone and one in which the meat flavor is
      extended through a large amount of the material.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT STEW
    </h4>
    <pre>
  5 pounds of a cheaper cut of beef.
  4 cups of potatoes cut into small pieces.
  2/3 cup each of turnips and carrots cut into 1/2-inch cubes.
  1/2 onion, chopped.
  1/4 cup of flour.
  Salt and pepper.
</pre>
    <p>
      Cut the meat into small pieces, removing the fat; try out the
      fat and brown the meat in it. When well browned, cover with
      boiling water, boil for five minutes and then cook in a lower
      temperature until the meat is done. If tender, this will
      require about three hours on the stove or five hours in the
      fireless cooker. Add carrots, turnips, onions, pepper, and
      salt during the last hour of cooking, and the potatoes
      fifteen minutes before serving. Thicken with the flour
      diluted with cold water. Serve with dumplings (see below). If
      this dish is made in the fireless cooker, the mixture must be
      reheated when the vegetables are put in. Such a stew may also
      be made of mutton. If veal or pork is used the vegetables may
      be omitted or simply a little onion used. Sometimes for
      variety the browning of the meat is dispensed with. When
      white meat, such as chicken, veal, or fresh pork is used, the
      gravy is often made rich with cream or milk thickened with
      flour. The numerous minor additions which may be introduced
      give the great variety of such stews found in cookbooks.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT DUMPLINGS
    </h4>
    <pre>
  2 cups flour.
  4 teaspoonfuls baking powder.
  2/3 cup milk or a little more if needed.
  1/2 teaspoonful salt.
  2 teaspoonfuls butter.
</pre>
    <p>
      Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Work in the butter with the
      tips of fingers, add milk gradually, roll out to a thickness
      of one-half inch, and cut with biscuit cutter. In some
      countries it is customary to season the dumplings themselves
      with herbs, etc., or to stuff them with bread crumbs fried in
      butter, instead of depending upon the gravy to season them.
    </p>
    <p>
      A good way to cook dumplings is to put them in a buttered
      steamer over a kettle of hot water. They should cook from
      twelve to fifteen minutes. If it is necessary to cook them
      with the stew, enough liquid should be removed so that they
      may be placed upon the meat and vegetables.
    </p>
    <p>
      Sometimes the dough is baked and served as biscuits over
      which the stew is poured. If the stew is made with chicken or
      veal it is generally termed a fricassee.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT PIES AND SIMILAR DISHES
    </h4>
    <p>
      Meat pies represent another method of combining flour with
      meat. They are ordinarily baked in a fairly deep dish the
      sides of which may or may not be lined with dough. The cooked
      meat, cut into small pieces, is put into the dish, sometimes
      with small pieces of vegetables, a gravy is poured over the
      meat, the dish is covered with a layer of dough, and then
      baked. Most commonly the dough is like that used for soda or
      cream-of-tartar biscuit, but sometimes shortened pastry
      dough, such as is made for pies, is used. This is especially
      the case in the fancy individual dishes usually called
      patties. Occasionally the pie is covered with a potato crust
      in which case the meat is put directly into the dish without
      lining the latter. Stewed beef, veal, and chicken are
      probably most frequently used in pies, but any kind of meat
      may be used, or several kinds in combination. Pork pies are
      favorite dishes in many rural regions, especially at
      hog-killing time, and when well made are excellent.
    </p>
    <p>
      If pies are made from raw meat and vegetables longer cooking
      is needed than otherwise, and in such cases it is well to
      cover the dish with a plate, cook until the pie is nearly
      done, then remove the plate, add the crust, and return to the
      oven until the crust is lightly browned. Many cooks insist on
      piercing holes in the top crust of a meat pie directly it is
      taken from the oven.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT AND TOMATO PIE
    </h4>
    <p>
      This dish presents an excellent way of using up small
      quantities of either cold beef or cold mutton. If fresh
      tomatoes are used, peel and slice them; if canned, drain off
      the liquid. Place a layer of tomato in a baking dish, then a
      layer of sliced meat, and over the two dredge flour, pepper,
      and salt; repeat until the dish is nearly full, then put in
      an extra layer of tomato and cover the whole with a layer of
      pastry or of bread or cracker crumbs. When the quantity of
      meat is small, it may be "helped out" by boiled potatoes or
      other suitable vegetables. A few oysters or mushrooms improve
      the flavor, especially when beef is used. The pie will need
      to be baked from half an hour to an hour, according to its
      size and the heat of the oven.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT WITH STARCHY MATERIALS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Macaroni cooked with chopped ham, hash made of meat and
      potatoes or meat and rice, meat croquettes&#8212;made of meat
      and some starchy materials like bread crumbs, cracker dust,
      or rice&#8212;are other familiar examples of meat combined
      with starchy materials. Pilaf, a dish very common in the
      Orient and well known in the United States, is of this
      character and easily made. When there is soup or soup stock
      on hand it can be well used in the pilaf.
    </p>
    <h4>
      TURKISH PILAF
    </h4>
    <pre>
  1/2 cup of rice.
  3/4 cup of tomatoes stewed and strained.
  1 cup stock or broth.
  3 tablespoonfuls of butter.
</pre>
    <p>
      Cook the rice and tomatoes with the stock in a double boiler
      until the rice is tender, removing the cover after the rice
      is cooked if there is too much liquid. Add the butter and
      stir it in with a fork to prevent the rice from being broken.
      A little catsup or Chili sauce with water enough to make
      three-quarters of a cup may be substituted for the tomatoes.
      This may be served as a border with meat, or served
      separately in the place of a vegetable, or may make the main
      dish at a meal, as it is savory and reasonably nutritious.
    </p>
    <h4>
      STEW FROM COLD ROAST
    </h4>
    <p>
      This dish provides a good way of using up the remnants of a
      roast, either of beef or mutton, The meat should be freed
      from fat, gristle, and bones, cut into small pieces, slightly
      salted, and put into a kettle with water enough to nearly
      cover it. It should simmer until almost ready to break in
      pieces, when onions and raw potatoes, peeled and quartered,
      should be added. A little soup stock may also be added if
      available. Cook until the potatoes are done, then thicken the
      liquor or gravy with flour. The stew may be attractively
      served on slices of crisp toast.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT WITH BEANS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Dry beans are very rich in protein, the percentage being
      fully as large as that in meat. Dry beans and other similar
      legumes are usually cooked in water, which they absorb, and
      so are diluted before serving; on the other hand, meats by
      the ordinary methods of cooking are usually deprived of some
      of the water originally present&#8212;facts which are often
      overlooked in discussing the matter. Nevertheless, when beans
      are served with meat the dish is almost as rich in protein as
      if it consisted entirely of meat.
    </p>
    <p>
      Pork and beans is such a well-known dish that recipes are not
      needed. Some cooks use a piece of corned mutton or a piece of
      corned beef in place of salt or corned pork or bacon or use
      butter or olive oil in preparing this dish.
    </p>
    <p>
      In the Southern States, where cowpeas are a common crop, they
      are cooked in the same way as dried beans. Cowpeas baked with
      salt pork or bacon make an excellent dish resembling pork and
      beans, but of distinctive flavor. Cowpeas boiled with ham or
      with bacon are also well-known and palatable dishes.
    </p>
    <h4>
      HARICOT OF MUTTON
    </h4>
    <pre>
  2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onions.
  2 tablespoonfuls of butter or drippings.
  2 cups of water, and salt and pepper.
  1-1/2 pounds of lean mutton or lamb cut into 2-inch pieces.
</pre>
    <p>
      Fry the onions in the butter, add the meat, and brown; cover
      with water and cook until the meat is tender. Serve with a
      border of Lima beans, seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, and
      a little chopped parsley. Fresh, canned, dried, or evaporated
      Lima beans may be used in making this dish.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT SALADS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Whether meat salads are economical or not depends upon the
      way in which the materials are utilized. If in chicken salad,
      for example, only the white meat of chickens especially
      bought for the purpose and only the inside stems of expensive
      celery are used, it can hardly be cheaper than plain chicken.
      But, if portions of meat left over from a previous serving
      are mixed with celery grown at home, they certainly make an
      economical dish, and one very acceptable to most persons.
      Cold roast pork or tender veal&#8212;in fact, any white meat
      can be utilized in the same way. Apples cut into cubes may be
      substituted for part of the celery; many cooks consider that
      with the apple the salad takes the dressing better than with
      the celery alone. Many also prefer to marinate (i.e., mix
      with a little oil and vinegar) the meat and celery or celery
      and apples before putting in the final dressing, which may be
      either mayonnaise or a good boiled dressing.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT WITH EGGS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Occasionally eggs are combined with meat, making very
      nutritious dishes. Whether this is an economy or not of
      course depends on the comparative cost of eggs and meat.
    </p>
    <p>
      In general, it may be said that eggs are cheaper food than
      meat when a dozen costs less than 1-1/2 pounds of meat; for a
      dozen eggs weigh about 1-1/2 pounds and the proportions of
      protein and fat which they contain are not far different from
      the proportions of these nutrients in the average cut of
      meat. When eggs are 30 cents a dozen they compare favorably
      with a round of beef at 20 cents a pound.
    </p>
    <p>
      Such common dishes as ham and eggs, bacon or salt pork and
      eggs, and omelette with minced ham or other meat are familiar
      to all cooks.
    </p>
    <h4>
      ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING
    </h4>
    <p>
      The beef is roasted as usual and the pudding made as follows:
    </p>
    <pre>
  3 eggs.
  1 pint milk.
  1 cupful flour.
  1 teaspoonful salt.
</pre>
    <p>
      Beat the eggs until very light, then add the milk. Pour the
      mixture over the flour, add the salt, and beat well. Bake in
      hissing hot gem pans or in an ordinary baking pan for
      forty-five minutes, and baste with drippings from the beef.
      If gem pans are used they should be placed on a dripping pan
      to protect the floor of the oven from the fat. Many cooks
      prefer to bake Yorkshire pudding in the pan with the meat; in
      this case the roast should be placed on a rack and the
      pudding batter poured on the pan under it.
    </p>
    <h4>
      CORNED-BEEF HASH WITH POACHED EGGS
    </h4>
    <p>
      A dish popular with many persons is corned-beef hash with
      poached eggs on top of the hash. A slice of toast is
      sometimes used under the hash. This suggests a way of
      utilizing the small amount of corned-beef hash which would
      otherwise be insufficient for a meal.
    </p>
    <p>
      Housekeepers occasionally use up odd bits of other meat in a
      similar way, chopping and seasoning them and then warming and
      serving in individual baking cups with a poached or shirred
      egg on each.
    </p>
    <h4>
      STUFFING
    </h4>
    <p>
      Another popular way to extend the flavor of meat over a large
      amount of food is by the use of stuffing. As it is impossible
      to introduce much stuffing into some pieces of meat even if
      the meat is cut to make a pocket for it, it is often well to
      prepare more than can be put into the meat and to cook the
      remainder in the pan beside the meat. Some cooks cover the
      extra stuffing with buttered paper while it is cooking and
      baste it at intervals.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MOCK DUCK
    </h4>
    <p>
      Mock duck is made by placing on a round steak a stuffing of
      bread crumbs well seasoned with chopped onions, butter,
      chopped suet or dripping, salt, pepper, and a little sage, if
      the flavor is relished. The steak is then rolled around the
      stuffing and tied with a string in several places. If the
      steak seems tough, the roll is steamed or stewed until tender
      before roasting in the oven until brown. Or it may be cooked
      in a casserole or other covered dish, in which case a cupful
      or more of water or soup-stock should be poured around the
      meat. Mock duck is excellent served with currant or other
      acid jelly.
    </p>
    <h4>
      VEAL OR BEEF BIRDS
    </h4>
    <p>
      A popular dish known as veal or beef birds or by a variety of
      special names is made by taking small pieces of meat, each
      just large enough for an individual serving, and preparing
      them in the same way as the mock duck is prepared.
    </p>
    <p>
      Sometimes variety is introduced by seasoning the stuffing
      with chopped olives or tomato. Many cooks prepare their
      "birds" by browning in a little fat, then adding a little
      water, covering closely and simmering until tender.
    </p>
    <h4>
      UTILIZING THE CHEAPER CUTS OF MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      When the housekeeper attempts to reduce her meat bill by
      using the less expensive cuts, she commonly has two
      difficulties to contend with&#8212;toughness and lack of
      flavor. It has been shown how prolonged cooking softens the
      connective tissues of the meat. Pounding the meat and
      chopping it are also employed with tough cuts, as they help
      to break the muscle fibers. As for flavor, the natural flavor
      of meat even in the least desirable cuts may be developed by
      careful cooking, notably by browning the surface, and other
      flavors may be given by the addition of vegetables and
      seasoning with condiments of various kinds.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch14"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER XIV
    </h2>
    <h3>
      RECIPES FOR MEAT DISHES
    </h3>
    <p>
      Prolonged Cooking at Low Heat&#8212;Stewed Shin of
      Beef&#8212;Boiled Beef with Horseradish Sauce&#8212;Stuffed
      Heart&#8212;Braised Beef, Pot Roast, and Beef a la
      Mode&#8212;Hungarian Goulash&#8212;Casserole
      Cookery&#8212;Meat Cooked with Vinegar&#8212;Sour
      Beef&#8212;Sour Beefsteak&#8212;Pounded Meat&#8212;Farmer
      Stew&#8212;Spanish Beefsteak&#8212;Chopped Meat&#8212;Savory
      Rolls&#8212;Developing Flavor of Meat&#8212;Retaining Natural
      Flavor&#8212;Round Steak on Biscuits&#8212;Flavor of Browned
      Meat or Fat&#8212;Salt Pork with Milk Gravy&#8212;"Salt-Fish
      Dinner"&#8212;Sauces&#8212;Mock Venison.
    </p>
    <h4>
      PROLONGED COOKING AT LOW HEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      Meat may be cooked in water in a number of ways without being
      allowed to reach the boiling point. With the ordinary kitchen
      range this is accomplished by cooking on the cooler part of
      the stove rather than on the hottest part, directly over the
      fire. Experience with a gas stove, particularly if it has a
      small burner known as a "simmerer," usually enables the cook
      to maintain temperatures which are high enough to sterilize
      the meat if it has become accidentally contaminated in any
      way and to make it tender without hardening the fibers. The
      double boiler would seem to be a neglected utensil for this
      purpose. Its contents can easily be kept up to a temperature
      of 200 degrees F., and nothing will burn. Another method is
      by means of the fireless cooker. In this a high temperature
      can be maintained for a long time without the application of
      fresh heat. Still another method is by means of a closely
      covered baking dish. Earthenware dishes of this kind suitable
      for serving foods as well as for cooking are known as
      casseroles. For cooking purposes a baking dish covered with a
      plate or a bean jar covered with a saucer may be substituted.
      The Aladdin oven has long been popular for the purpose of
      preserving temperatures which are near the boiling point and
      yet do not reach it. It is a thoroughly insulated oven which
      may be heated either by a kerosene lamp or a gas jet.
    </p>
    <p>
      In this connection directions are given for using some of the
      toughest and less promising pieces of meat.
    </p>
    <h4>
      STEWED SHIN OF BEEF
    </h4>
    <pre>
 4 pounds of shin of beef.
 1 medium-sized onion.
 1 whole clove and a small bay leaf.
 1 sprig of parsley.
 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
 1 small slice of carrot.
 1/2 tablespoonful of salt.
 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper.
 2 quarts of boiling water.
 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter or savory drippings.
</pre>
    <p>
      Have the butcher cut the bone in several pieces. Put all the
      ingredients but the flour and butter into a stewpan and bring
      to a boil. Set the pan where the liquid will just simmer for
      six hours, or after boiling for five or ten minutes, put all
      into the fireless cooker for eight or nine hours. With the
      butter, flour, and one-half cupful of the clear soup from
      which the fat has been removed, snake a brown sauce (see p.
      39); to this add the meat and the marrow removed from the
      bone. Heat and serve. The remainder of the liquid in which
      the meat has been cooked may be used for soup.
    </p>
    <h4>
      BOILED BEEF WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE
    </h4>
    <p>
      Plain boiled beef may also be served with horseradish sauce,
      and makes a palatable dish. A little chopped parsley
      sprinkled over the meat when served is considered an
      improvement by many persons. For the sake of variety the meat
      may be browned like pot roast before serving.
    </p>
    <h4>
      STUFFED HEART
    </h4>
    <p>
      Wash the heart thoroughly inside and out, stuff with the
      following mixture, and sew up the opening: One cup broken
      bread dipped in fat and browned in the oven, 1 chopped onion,
      and salt and pepper to taste.
    </p>
    <p>
      Cover the heart with water and simmer until tender or boil
      ten minutes and set in the fireless cooker for six or eight
      hours. Remove from the water about one-half hour before
      serving. Dredge with flour, pepper, and salt, or sprinkle
      with crumbs and bake until brown.
    </p>
    <h4>
      BRAISED BEEF, POT ROAST, AND BEEF A LA MODE
    </h4>
    <p>
      The above names are given to dishes made from the less tender
      cuts of meat They vary little either in composition or method
      of preparation. In all cases the meat is browned on the
      outside to increase the flavor and then cooked in a small
      amount of water in a closely covered kettle or other
      receptable until tender. The flavor of the dish is secured by
      browning the meat and by the addition of the seasoning
      vegetables. Many recipes suggest that the vegetables be
      removed before serving and the liquid be thickened. As the
      vegetables are usually extremely well seasoned by means of
      the brown fat and the extracts of the meat, it seems
      unfortunate not to serve them.
    </p>
    <p>
      Of course, the kind, quality, and shape of the meat all play
      their part in the matter. Extra time is needed for meats with
      a good deal of sinew and tough fibers, such as the tough
      steaks, shank cuts, etc.; and naturally a fillet of beef, or
      a steak from a prime cut, will take less time than a thick
      piece from the shin. Such dishes require more time and
      perhaps more skill in their preparation and may involve more
      expense for fuel than the more costly cuts, which like chops
      or tender steaks may be quickly cooked, but to the epicure,
      as well as to the average man, they are palatable when
      rightly prepared.
    </p>
    <h4>
      HUNGARIAN GOULASH
    </h4>
    <pre>
  2 pounds top round of beef.
  A little flour.
  2 ounces salt pork.
  2 cups tomatoes.
  1 stalk celery.
  1 onion.
  2 bay leaves.
  6 whole cloves.
  6 peppercorns.
  1 blade mace.
</pre>
    <p>
      Cut the beef into 2-inch pieces and sprinkle with flour; fry
      the salt pork until light brown; add the beef and cook slowly
      for about thirty-five minutes, stirring occasionally. Cover
      with water and simmer about two hours; season with salt and
      pepper or paprika.
    </p>
    <p>
      From the vegetables and spices a sauce is made as follows:
      Cook in sufficient water to cover for twenty minutes; then
      rub through a sieve, and add to some of the stock in which
      the meat was cooked. Thicken with flour, using 2
      tablespoonfuls (moistened with cold water) to each cup of
      liquid, and season with salt and paprika.
    </p>
    <p>
      Serve the meat on a platter with the sauce poured over it.
      Potatoes, carrots, and green peppers cooked until tender, and
      cut into small pieces or narrow strips, are usually sprinkled
      over the dish when served, and noodles may be arranged in a
      border upon the platter.
    </p>
    <p>
      Goulash is a Hungarian dish which has come to be a favorite
      in the United States.
    </p>
    <h4>
      CASSEROLE COOKERY
    </h4>
    <p>
      A casserole is a heavy earthenware dish with a cover. A
      substitute for it can easily be improvised by using any heavy
      earthenware dish with a heavy plate for the cover. A
      casserole presentable enough in appearance to be put on the
      table serves the double purpose of baking and serving dish.
    </p>
    <p>
      A suitable cut of beef or veal, and it may well be one of the
      cheaper cuts, as the long, slow cooking insures tenderness,
      may be cooked in a casserole.
    </p>
    <p>
      Poultry and other meats besides beef or veal can be cooked in
      this manner. Chicken cooked in a casserole, which is a
      favorite and expensive dish in good hotels and restaurants,
      may be easily prepared in the home, and casserole cookery is
      to be recommended for a tough chicken.
    </p>
    <p>
      The heat must be moderate and the cooking must occupy a long
      time. Hurried cooking in a casserole is out of the question.
      If care is taken in this particular, and suitable seasonings
      are used, few who know anything of cooking should go astray.
    </p>
    <p>
      Chopped meat also may be cooked in a casserole and this
      utensil is particularly useful for the purpose, because the
      food is served in the same dish in which it is cooked and may
      easily be kept hot, a point which is important with chopped
      meats, which usually cool rapidly.
    </p>
    <h4>
      MEAT COOKED WITH VINEGAR
    </h4>
    <p>
      Dishes of similar sort as regards cooking, but in which
      vinegar is used to give flavor as well as to soften the meat
      and make it tender, are the following:
    </p>
    <h4>
      SOUR BEEF
    </h4>
    <p>
      Take a piece of beef from the rump or the lower round, cover
      with vinegar or with a half-and-half mixture of vinegar and
      water, add sliced onion, bay leaves, and a few mixed whole
      spices and salt Allow to stand a week in winter or three or
      four days in summer; turn once a day and keep covered. When
      ready to cook, brown the meat in fat, using an enameled iron
      pan, strain the liquid over it and cook until tender; thicken
      the gravy with flour or ginger snaps (which may be broken up
      first), strain it, and pour over the sliced meat. Some cooks
      add cream.
    </p>
    <h4>
      SOUR BEEFSTEAK
    </h4>
    <p>
      Round steak may be cooked in water in which there is a little
      vinegar, or if the time is sufficient, it may be soaked for a
      few hours in vinegar and water and then cooked in a casserole
      or in some similar way.
    </p>
    <h4>
      POUNDED MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      Pounding meat before cooking is an old-fashioned method of
      making it tender, but while it has the advantage of breaking
      down the tough tissues it has the disadvantage of being
      likely to drive out the juices and with them the flavor. A
      very good way of escaping this difficulty is pounding flour
      into the meat; this catches and retains the juices. Below are
      given the recipes for two palatable dishes in which this is
      done:
    </p>
    <h4>
      FARMER STEW
    </h4>
    <p>
      Pound flour into both sides of a round steak, using as much
      as the meat will take up. This may be done with a meat
      pounder or with the edge of a heavy plate. Fry in drippings,
      butter, or other fat, in a Scotch bowl, or if more convenient
      in an ordinary iron kettle or a frying pan; then add water
      enough to cover it. Cover the dish very tightly so that the
      steam cannot escape and allow the meat to simmer for two
      hours or until it is tender. One advantage of this dish is
      that ordinarily it is ready to serve when the meat is done as
      the gravy is already thickened. However, if a large amount of
      fat is used in the frying, the gravy may not be thick enough
      and must be blended with flour.
    </p>
    <h4>
      SPANISH BEEFSTEAK
    </h4>
    <p>
      Take a piece of round steak weighing two pounds and about an
      inch thick; pound until thin, season with salt and Cayenne
      pepper, cover with a layer of bacon or salt pork, cut into
      thin slices, roll and tie with a cord. Pour around it half a
      cupful of milk and half a cupful of water. Place in a covered
      baking dish and cook two hours, basting occasionally.
    </p>
    <h4>
      CHOPPED MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      Chopping meat is one of the principal methods of making tough
      and inexpensive meat tender, i.e., dividing it finely and
      thus cutting the connective tissue into small bits. Such
      meats have another advantage in that they may be cooked
      quickly and economically.
    </p>
    <p>
      Chopped raw meat of almost any kind can be very quickly made
      into a savory dish by cooking it with water or with water and
      milk for a short time, then thickening with butter and flour,
      and adding different seasonings as relished, either pepper
      and salt alone, or onion juice, celery, or tomato. Such a
      dish may be made to "go further" by serving it on toast or
      with a border of rice or in some similar combination.
    </p>
    <h4>
      SAVORY ROLLS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Savory rolls in great variety are made out of chopped meat
      either with or without egg. The variety is secured by the
      flavoring materials used and by the sauces with which the
      baked rolls are served. A few recipes will be given below.
      While these definite directions are given it should be
      remembered that a few general principles borne in mind make
      recipes unnecessary and make it possible to utilize whatever
      may happen to be on hand. Appetizing rolls are made with beef
      and pork mixed. The proportion varies from two parts of beef
      and one of pork to two of pork and one of beef. The rolls are
      always improved by laying thin slices of salt pork or bacon
      over them, which keep the surface moistened with fat during
      the roasting. These slices should be scored on the edge, so
      that they will not curl up in cooking. The necessity for the
      salt pork is greater when the chopped meat is chiefly beef
      than when it is largely pork or veal. Bread crumbs or bread
      moistened in water can always be added, as it helps to make
      the dish go farther. When onions, green peppers, or other
      vegetables are used, they should always be thoroughly cooked
      in fat before being put in the roll, for usually they do not
      cook sufficiently in the length of time it takes to cook the
      meat. Sausage makes a good addition to the roll, but it is
      usually cheaper to use unseasoned pork meat with the addition
      of a little sage.
    </p>
    <h4>
      DEVELOPING FLAVOR OF MEAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      The typical meat flavors are very palatable to most persons,
      even when they are constantly tasted, and consequently the
      better cuts of meat in which they are well developed can be
      cooked and served without attention being paid especially to
      flavor. Careful cooking aids in developing the natural flavor
      of some of the cheaper cuts, and such a result is to be
      sought wherever it is possible. Browning also brings out
      flavors agreeable to most palates. Aside from these two ways
      of increasing the flavor of the meat itself there are
      countless ways of adding flavor to otherwise rather tasteless
      meats. The flavors may be added in preparing the meat for
      cooking, as in various seasoned dishes already described, or
      they may be supplied to cook meat in the form of sauces.
    </p>
    <h4>
      RETAINING NATURAL FLAVOR
    </h4>
    <p>
      As has already been pointed out, it is extremely difficult to
      retain the flavor-giving extractives in a piece of meat so
      tough as to require prolonged cooking. It is sometimes
      partially accomplished by first searing the exterior of the
      meat and thus preventing the escape of the juices. Another
      device, illustrated by the following recipe, is to let them
      escape into the gravy which is served with the meat itself. A
      similar principle is applied when roasts are basted with
      their own juice.
    </p>
    <h4>
      ROUND STEAK ON BISCUITS
    </h4>
    <p>
      Cut round steak into pieces about one-half inch square, cover
      with water and cook it at a temperature just below the
      boiling point until it is tender, or boil for five minutes,
      and while still hot put into the fireless cooker and leave it
      for five hours. Thicken the gravy with flour mixed with
      water, allowing two level tablespoonfuls to a cup of water.
      Pour the meat and gravy over split baking-powder biscuits so
      baked that they have a large amount of crust.
    </p>
    <h4>
      FLAVOR OF BROWNED MEAT OR FAT
    </h4>
    <p>
      Next to the unchanged flavor of the meat itself comes the
      flavor which is secured by browning the meat with fat. The
      outside slices of roast meat have this browned flavor in
      marked degree. Except in the case of roasts, browning for
      flavor is usually accomplished by heating the meat in a
      frying pan in fat which has been tried out of pork or in suet
      or butter. Care should be taken that the fat is not scorched.
      The chief reason for the bad opinion in which fried food is
      held by many is that it almost always means eating burned
      fat. When fat is heated too high it splits up into fatty
      acids and glycerin, and from the glycerin is formed a
      substance (acrolein) which has a very irritating effect upon
      the mucous membrane. All will recall that the fumes of
      scorched fat make the eyes water. It is not surprising that
      such a substance, if taken into the stomach, should cause
      digestive disturbance. Fat in itself is a very valuable food,
      and the objection to fried foods because they may be fat
      seems illogical. If they supply burned fat there is a good
      reason for suspicion. Many housekeepers cook bacon in the
      oven on a wire broiler over a pan and believe it more
      wholesome than fried bacon. The reason, of course, is that
      thus cooked in the oven there is less chance for the bacon
      becoming impregnated with burned fat. Where fried salt pork
      is much used good cooks know that it must not be cooked over
      a very hot fire, even if they have never heard of the
      chemistry of burned fat. The recipe for bean-pot roast and
      other similar recipes may be varied by browning the meat or
      part of it before covering with water. This results in
      keeping some of the natural flavoring within the meat itself
      and allowing less to go into the gravy. The flavor of veal
      can be very greatly improved in this way.
    </p>
    <p>
      The following old-fashioned dishes made with pork owe their
      savoriness chiefly to the flavor of browned fat or meat:
    </p>
    <h4>
      SALT PORK WITH MILK GRAVY
    </h4>
    <p>
      Cut salt or cured pork into thin slices. If very salt, cover
      with hot water and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Score
      the rind of the slices and fry slowly until they are a golden
      brown. Make a milk gravy by heating flour in the fat that has
      been tried out, allowing two tablespoonfuls of fat and two
      tablespoonfuls of flour to each cup of milk. This is a good
      way to use skim milk, which is as rich in protein as whole
      milk. The pork and milk gravy served with boiled or baked
      potatoes makes a cheap and simple meal, but one that most
      people like very much. Bacon is often used in place of salt
      pork in making this dish.
    </p>
    <h4>
      "SALT-FISH DINNER"
    </h4>
    <pre>
 1/2 pound salt pork.
 1 pound codfish.
 2 cups of milk (skim milk will do).
 4 tablespoonfuls flour.
 A speck of salt.
</pre>
    <p>
      Cut the codfish into strips, soak in lukewarm water and then
      cook in water until tender, but do not allow the water to
      come to the boiling point except for a very short time as
      prolonged boiling may make it tough. Cut the pork into
      one-fourth inch slices and cut several gashes in each piece.
      Fry very slowly until golden brown, and remove, pouring off
      the fat. Out of four tablespoonfuls of the fat, the flour,
      and the milk make a white sauce. Dish up the codfish with
      pieces of pork around it and serve with boiled potatoes and
      beets. Some persons serve the pork, and the fat from it, in a
      gravy boat so it can be added as relished.
    </p>
    <h4>
      SAUCES
    </h4>
    <p>
      The art of preparing savory gravies and sauces is more
      important in connection with the serving of the cheaper meats
      than in connection with the cooking of the more expensive.
    </p>
    <p>
      There are a few general principles underlying the making of
      all sauces or gravies whether the liquid used is water, milk,
      stock, tomato juice, or some combination of these. For
      ordinary gravy 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour or 1-1/2
      tablespoonfuls of cornstarch or arrow root is sufficient to
      thicken a cupful of liquid. This is true excepting when, as
      in the recipe on page 23 the flour is browned. In this case
      about one-half tablespoonful more should be allowed, for
      browned flour does not thicken so well as unbrowned. The fat
      used may be butter or the drippings from the meat, the
      allowance being 2 tablespoonfuls to a cup of liquid.
    </p>
    <p>
      The easiest way to mix the ingredients is to heat the fat,
      add the flour, and cook until the mixture ceases to bubble,
      and then to add the liquid. This is a quick method and by
      using it there is little danger of getting a lumpy gravy.
      Many persons, however, think it is not a wholesome method and
      prefer the old-fashioned one of thickening the gravy by means
      of flour mixed with a little cold water. The latter method
      is, of course, not practicable for brown gravies.
    </p>
    <p>
      The good flavor of browned flour is often overlooked. If
      flour is cooked in fat until it is a dark brown color a
      distinctive and very agreeable flavor is obtained. This
      flavor combines very well with that of currant jelly, and a
      little jelly added to a brown gravy is a great improvement.
      The flavor of this should not be combined with that of onions
      or other highly flavored vegetables. A recipe for a dish
      which is made with brown sauce follows:
    </p>
    <h4>
      MOCK VENISON
    </h4>
    <p>
      Cut cold mutton into thin slices and heat in a brown sauce,
      made according to the following proportions:
    </p>
    <pre>
 2 tablespoonfuls butter.
 2 tablespoonfuls flour.
 1 tablespoonful of bottled meat sauce (whichever is preferred).
 1 tablespoonful red-currant jelly.
 1 cupful water or stock.
</pre>
    <p>
      Brown the flour in the butter, add the water or stock slowly,
      and keep stirring. Then add the jelly and meat sauce and let
      the mixture boil up well.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p><a name="ch15"><!--Marker--></a>
    <h2>
      CHAPTER XV
    </h2>
    <h3>
      HOUSEHOLD RECIPES.
    </h3>
    <center>
      (Arranged Alphabetically)
    </center>
    <blockquote>
      "The woman's work for her own home is to secure its order,
      comfort, and loveliness."&#8212;JOHN RUSKIN&#8212;<i>Sesame
      and Lilies</i>.
    </blockquote>
    <p>
      The following recipes are tried and approved ones, useful for
      housecleaning, laundry work, etc. In a number of instances
      they give instruction in the making of commodities, such as
      soap, which are usually purchased in the stores, but which,
      if made at home will cost less money, and be of better
      quality. They are arranged alphabetically for ease of
      reference:
    </p>
    <center>
      ANTS&#8212;TO GET RID OF
    </center>
    <p>
      Wash the shelves with salt and water; sprinkle salt in their
      paths. To keep them out of safes, set the legs of the safe on
      tin cups; keep the cups filled with water.
    </p>
    <center>
      BARRELS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      The ordinary way of washing a barrel is with boiling water,
      and when cool examining it with a light inside. If there be
      any sour or musty smell, however, lime must be used to remove
      it. Break the lime into lumps, and put it in the cask dry (it
      will take from 3 to 4 lbs. for each cask), then pour in as
      many gallons of boiling water as there are pounds of lime,
      and bung. Roll the cask about now and then, and after a few
      hours wash it out, steam it, and let it cool.
    </p>
    <center>
      BED-BUGS&#8212;TO KILL
    </center>
    <p>
      For bed-bugs nothing is so good as the white of eggs and
      quicksilver. A thimbleful of quicksilver to the white of each
      egg; heat until well mixed; apply with a feather.
    </p>
    <center>
      FEATHER-BEDS&#8212;TO CLEANSE WITHOUT EMPTYING
    </center>
    <p>
      On a hot, clear summer day, lay the bed upon a scaffold; wash
      it well with soap-suds upon both sides, rubbing it hard with
      a stiff brush; pour several gallons of hot water upon the bed
      slowly, and let it drip through. Rinse with clear water;
      remove it to a dry part of the scaffold to dry; beat, and
      turn it two or three times during the day. Sun until
      perfectly dry. The feathers may be emptied in barrels, washed
      in soap-suds, and rinsed; then spread in an unoccupied room
      and dried, or put in bags made of thin sleazy cloth, and kept
      in the sun until dry. The quality of feathers can be much
      improved by attention of this kind.
    </p>
    <center>
      CLOTHES&#8212;TO BLEACH
    </center>
    <p>
      Dissolve a handful of refined borax in ten gallons of water;
      boil the clothes in it. To whiten brown cloth, boil in weak
      lye, and expose day and night to the sun and night air; keep
      the clothes well sprinkled.
    </p>
    <center>
      BOOKS&#8212;TO KEEP MICE FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Sprinkle a little Cayenne pepper in the cracks at the back of
      the shelves of the bookcase.
    </p>
    <center>
      BOARDS&#8212;TO SCOUR
    </center>
    <p>
      Mix in a saucer three parts of fine sand and one part of
      lime; dip the scrubbing-brush into this and use it instead of
      soap. This will remove grease and whiten the boards, while at
      the same time it will destroy all insects. The boards should
      be well rinsed with clean water. If they are very greasy,
      they should be well covered over in places with a coating of
      fuller's earth moistened with boiling water, which should be
      left on 24 hours before they are scoured as above directed.
      In washing boards never rub crosswise, but always with the
      grain.
    </p>
    <center>
      BOOKS&#8212;TO PRESERVE FROM DAMP
    </center>
    <p>
      A few drops of strong perfumed oil, sprinkled in the bookcase
      will preserve books from damp and mildew.
    </p>
    <center>
      BOOKS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Books may be cleaned with a little dry bread crumbled up and
      rubbed gently, but firmly, over with the open hand. Cloth
      covers may be washed with a sponge dipped in a mixture made
      from the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth and
      afterwards allowed to settle. To clean grease marks from
      books, dampen the marks with a little benzine, place a piece
      of blotting-paper on each side of the page, and pass a hot
      iron over the top.
    </p>
    <center>
      BRASS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Dissolve 1 oz. of oxalic acid in one pint of soft water. Rub
      it on the brass with a piece of flannel, and polish with
      another dry piece. This solution should be kept in a bottle
      labelled "poison," and the bottle well shaken before it is
      used, which should be only occasionally, for in a general way
      the Brass should be cleaned with pulverized rottenstone,
      mixed into a liquid state with oil of turpentine. Rub this on
      with a piece of soft leather, leave for a few minutes; then
      wipe it off with a soft cloth. Brass treated generally with
      the latter, and occasionally with the former mode of cleaning
      will look most beautiful. A very good general polish for
      brass may be made of 1/2 a lb. of rottenstone and 1 oz. of
      oxalic acid, with as much water as will make it into a stiff
      paste. Set this paste on a plate in a cool oven to dry, pound
      it very fine, and apply a little of the powder, moistened
      with sweet oil, to the brass with a piece of leather,
      polishing with another leather or an old silk handkerchief.
      This powder should also be labelled "poison."
    </p>
    <center>
      BRITANNIA METAL&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Articles made of what is usually called Britannia metal may
      be kept in order by the frequent use of the following
      composition: 1/2 a lb. of finely-powdered whiting, a
      wineglass of sweet oil, a tablespoonful of soft soap, and 1/2
      an oz. of yellow soap melted in water. Add to these in mixing
      sufficient spirits&#8212;gin or spirits of wine&#8212;to make
      the compound the consistency of cream. This cream should be
      applied with a sponge or soft flannel, wiped off with soft
      linen rags, and the article well polished with a leather; or
      they may be cleaned with only oil and soap in the following
      manner: Rub the articles with sweet oil on a piece of woolen
      cloth; then wash well with strong soap-and-water; rub them
      dry, and polish with a soft leather and whiting. The polish
      thus given will last for a long time.
    </p>
    <center>
      BRUSHES&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece
      the size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into
      a basin, and, after combing out the hair from the brushes,
      dip them, bristles downward, into the water and out again,
      keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as
      possible. Repeat this until the bristles look clean; then
      rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well,
      and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, but not the
      bristles, and set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the
      fire; but take care not to put them too close to it. Wiping
      the bristles of a brush makes them soft, as does also the use
      of soap.
    </p>
    <center>
      CARPETS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Shake the carpet well; tack it down, and wash it upon the
      floor; the floor should be very clean; use cold soap suds; to
      three gallons add half a tumbler of beef-gall; this will
      prevent the colors from fading. Should there be grease spots,
      apply a mixture of beef-gall, fuller's-earth, and water
      enough to form a paste; put this on before tacking the carpet
      down. Use tacks inserted in small leather caps. Carpets in
      bedrooms and stair-carpets may be kept clean by being brushed
      with a soft hairbrush frequently, and, as occasion requires,
      being taken up and shaken. Larger carpets should be swept
      carefully with a whisk-brush or hand-brush of hair, which is
      far better, especially in the case of fine-piled carpets.
      Thick carpets, as Axminster and Turkey, should always be
      brushed one way.
    </p>
    <center>
      CARPETS&#8212;TO LAY
    </center>
    <p>
      This can hardly be well done without the aid of a proper
      carpet-fork or stretcher. Work the carpet the length way of
      the material, which ought to be made up the length way of the
      room. Nail sides as you go along, until you are quite sure
      that the carpet is fully stretched, and that there is no fold
      anywhere in the length of it.
    </p>
    <center>
      STAIR-CARPET&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Make stair-carpet longer than necessary, and change it so
      that it will not cover the steps in the same way each time of
      putting down. Moved about in this way, the carpet will last
      much longer. Clean the rods with oxalic acid. They should be
      kept bright.
    </p>
    <center>
      CHIMNEY ON FIRE
    </center>
    <p>
      Close all doors and windows tightly, and hold a wet blanket
      in front of the fire to prevent any draught going up the
      chimney.
    </p>
    <center>
      CHINA OR GLASS&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Wash in plenty of hot soap suds; have two vessels, and in one
      rinse in hot water. Turn upon waiters, and let the articles
      drip before being wiped. Use linen towels for wiping.
    </p>
    <center>
      CHINA AND GLASS&#8212;CEMENT FOR
    </center>
    <p>
      Dissolve 1 oz. of gum-mastic in a quantity of
      highly-rectified spirits of wine; then soften 1 oz. of
      isinglass in warm water, and, finally, dissolve it in
      alcohol, till it forms a thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and
      gum-mastic together, adding 1/4 of an oz. of finely-powdered
      gum-ammoniac; put the whole into an earthen vessel and in a
      warm place, till they are thoroughly incorporated together;
      pour it into a small bottle, and cork it down for use.
    </p>
    <p>
      In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver
      teaspoon over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or
      china being warmed, and touched with the now liquid cement,
      join the parts neatly together, and hold them in their places
      till the cement has set; then wipe away the cement adhering
      to the edge of the joint, and leave it for twelve hours
      without touching it; the joint will be as strong as the china
      itself, and if neatly done, it will show no joining. It is
      essential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with
      hot or cold water.
    </p>
    <center>
      CLOTHES&#8212;CARE OF
    </center>
    <p>
      Woolen dresses may be laid out on a table and brushed all
      over; but in general, even in woolen fabrics, the lightness
      of the tissues renders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it
      is better to remove the dust from the folds by beating them
      lightly with a handkerchief or thin cloth. Silk dresses
      should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of merino or
      other soft material, of a similar color to the silk, kept for
      the purpose. Summer dresses of muslin, and other light
      materials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be
      tumbled, it must be ironed afterwards.
    </p>
    <p>
      If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near
      the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural
      state by the hand or a soft brush, or re-curled with a blunt
      knife, dipped in very hot water. Furs and feathers not in
      constant use should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye.
      From May to September they are subject to being made the
      depository of moth-eggs.
    </p>
    <center>
      CLOTHES&#8212;TO BRUSH
    </center>
    <p>
      Fine clothes require to be brushed lightly, and with a rather
      soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a hard
      one is necessary; previously beat the clothes lightly to
      dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush in
      the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn
      the sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at
      the elbow-joints; next turn the lapels or sides back over the
      folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the
      collar, so that the crease may fall about the center, and
      double only half over the other, so that the fold comes in
      the center of the back.
    </p>
    <center>
      CLOTHES&#8212;TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      To remove grease-spots from cotton or woolen materials,
      absorbent pastes, and even common soap, are used, applied to
      the spot when dry. When the colors are not fast, place a
      layer of fuller's-earth or pulverized potter's clay over the
      spot, and press with a very hot iron. For silks, moires and
      plain or brocaded satins, pour two drops of rectified spirits
      of wine over the spot, cover with a linen cloth, and press
      with a hot iron, changing the linen instantly. The spot will
      look tarnished, for a portion of the grease still remains;
      this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether,
      dropped on the spot, and a very little rubbing. If neatly
      done, no perceptible mark or circle will remain; nor will the
      lustre of the richest silk be changed, the union of the two
      liquids operating with no injurious effects from rubbing.
      Eau-de-Cologne will also remove grease from cloth and silk.
      Fruit-spots are removed from white and fast-colored cottons
      by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping the
      article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather
      dipped in the chloride, and dip immediately into cold water,
      to prevent the texture of the article being injured. Fresh
      ink-spots are removed by a few drops of hot water being
      poured on immediately after applying the chloride of soda. By
      the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico may be
      removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent injury
      to the fabric. Wax dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth
      dress, is easily discharged by applying spirits of wine;
      syrups or preserved fruits, by washing in lukewarm water with
      a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of clean
      linen.
    </p>
    <center>
      CRAPE&#8212;TO RENOVATE
    </center>
    <p>
      Place a little water in a tea-kettle and let it boil until
      there is plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the
      crape with both hands, pass it to and fro several times
      through the steam, and it will be clean and look nearly equal
      to new.
    </p>
    <center>
      COMBS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often
      makes the teeth split, and the tortoise-shell or horn of
      which they are made, rough. Small brushes, manufactured
      purposely for cleaning combs, may be purchased at a trifling
      cost; the comb should be well brushed, and afterwards wiped
      with a cloth or towel.
    </p>
    <center>
      CUPBOARDS, DAMP&#8212;TO DRY
    </center>
    <p>
      Leave a quantity of quicklime in the cupboard for a few days,
      and the moisture will be entirely absorbed.
    </p>
    <center>
      EGGS&#8212;TO PACK
    </center>
    <p>
      Put into a butter firkin a thick layer of coarse dry salt,
      then a layer of eggs, with the small end down, another layer
      of salt, then eggs, and so on until the firkin is full. Cover
      and keep in a dry place. These eggs will keep put up in this
      way almost any length of time.
    </p>
    <center>
      COAL-FIRE&#8212;TO LIGHT
    </center>
    <p>
      Clear out all ash from the grate and lay a few cinders or
      small pieces of coal at the bottom in open order; over this a
      few pieces of paper, and over that again eight or ten pieces
      of dry wood; over the wood, a course of moderate-sized pieces
      of coal, taking care to leave hollow spaces between for air
      at the center; and taking care to lay the whole well back in
      the grate, so that the smoke may go up the chimney, and not
      into the room. This done, fire the paper with a match from
      below, and, if properly laid, it will soon burn up; the
      stream of flame from the wood and paper soon communicating to
      the coal and cinders, provided there is plenty of air at the
      center.
    </p>
    <p>
      Another method of lighting a fire is sometimes practiced with
      advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down,
      in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is
      arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few
      good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another
      layer of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted
      in the usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with
      some economy of fuel, it is said.
    </p>
    <center>
      FEATHERS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Cover the feathers with a paste made of pipe-clay, and water,
      rubbing them one way only. When quite dry, shake off all the
      powder and curl with a knife.
    </p>
    <center>
      FLANNEL&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Never rub soap upon it; make suds by dissolving the soap in
      warm water; rinse in warm water. Very cold or hot water will
      shrink flannel. Shake them out several minutes before hanging
      to dry. Blankets are washed in the same way.
    </p>
    <center>
      FLEAS&#8212;TO DRIVE AWAY
    </center>
    <p>
      Use pennyroyal or walnut leaves. Scatter them profusely in
      all infested places.
    </p>
    <center>
      FLIES&#8212;TO DESTROY
    </center>
    <p>
      A mixture of cream, sugar, and ground black pepper, in equal
      quantities, placed in saucers in a room infested with flies
      will destroy them. If a small quantity, say the equivalent of
      a teaspoonful of carbolic acid be poured on a hot shovel, it
      will drive the flies from the room. But screens should be
      used to prevent their entrance.
    </p>
    <center>
      STEEL-FORKS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Have a small box filled with clean sand; mix with it a third
      the quantity of soft soap; clean the forks by sticking in the
      sand and withdrawing them rapidly, repeating the process
      until they are bright.
    </p>
    <center>
      CUT-FLOWERS&#8212;TO PRESERVE
    </center>
    <p>
      A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a
      long time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh
      water, in which a little charcoal has been steeped, or a
      small piece of camphor dissolved. The vase should be set upon
      a plate or dish, and covered with a bell glass, around the
      edges of which, when it comes in contact with the plate, a
      little water should be poured to exclude the air. To revive
      cut flowers, plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the
      time the water is cold, the flowers will have revived. Then
      cut the ends of the stems afresh, and place in fresh cold
      water.
    </p>
    <center>
      FRUIT STAINS&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Pour hot water on the spots; wet with ammonia or oxalic
      acid&#8212;a teaspoonful to a teacup of water.
    </p>
    <center>
      FRUIT-TREES&#8212;TO PREVENT DEPREDATIONS OF
    </center>
    <p>
      To preserve apple and other fruit trees from the depredations
      of rabbits, etc., and the ravages of insects, apply soft soap
      to the trunk and branches in March and September.
    </p>
    <center>
      FURNITURE GLOSS&#8212;GERMAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Cut 1/4 of a lb. of yellow wax into small pieces and melt it
      in an earthen vessel, with 1 oz. of black rosin, pounded very
      fine. Stir in gradually, while these two ingredients are
      quite warm, 2 ozs. of oil of turpentine. Keep this
      composition well covered for use in a tin or earthen pot. A
      little of this gloss should be spread on a piece of coarse
      woolen cloth, and the furniture well rubbed with it;
      afterward it should be polished with a fine cloth.
    </p>
    <center>
      FURNITURE POLISH
    </center>
    <p>
      One pint of linseed oil, one wineglass of alcohol. Mix well
      together. Apply to the furniture with a fine rag. Rub dry
      with a soft cotton cloth, and polish with a silk cloth.
      Furniture is improved by washing it occasionally with
      soap-suds. Wipe dry, and rub over with very little linseed
      oil upon a clean sponge or flannel. Wipe polished furniture
      with silk. Separate dusting-cloths and brushes should be kept
      for highly polished furniture. When sweeping carpets and
      dusting walls always cover the furniture until the particles
      of dust floating in the air settle, then remove the covers,
      and wipe with a silk or soft cotton cloth,
    </p>
    <center>
      FURNITURE STAINS&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Rub stains on furniture with cold-drawn linseed oil; then rub
      with alcohol. Remove ink stains with oxalic acid and water;
      wash off with milk. A hot iron held over stains upon
      furniture will sometimes remove them.
    </p>
    <center>
      FURS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Moisten some bran with hot water; rub the fur with it, and
      dry with a flannel. Then rub with a piece of muslin and some
      dry bran.
    </p>
    <center>
      GAS&#8212;TO DETECT A LEAK
    </center>
    <p>
      Never take a light into the room or look for the leak with a
      light. Soap and water mixed, and applied with a brush to the
      pipe will commence to bubble if there is a leak. Send for the
      plumber at once.
    </p>
    <center>
      GLASS&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Great care is required in washing glasses. Two perfectly
      clean bowls are necessary&#8212;one for moderately hot and
      another for cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first,
      rinse them in the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth
      folded two or three times, to drain for a few minutes. When
      sufficiently drained, wipe with a cloth and polish with a
      finer one, doing so tenderly and carefully.
    </p>
    <p>
      Decanters and water-jugs require very tender treatment in
      cleaning. Fill about two-thirds with hot but not boiling
      water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaked brown paper;
      leave them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water
      up and down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well
      with clean, cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When
      dry, polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with
      a fine cloth. Fine shot or pieces of charcoal placed in a
      decanter with warm water and shaken for some time, will also
      remove stains. When this is not effective, fill the bottle
      with finely chopped potato skins. Cork tight, and let the
      bottle stand for three days. Empty and rinse thoroughly.
    </p>
    <center>
      GLASS STOPPER&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Wrap a hot cloth around the neck of the bottle, thus
      expanding it, or, if this is not effective, pour a little
      salad oil round the stopper, and place the bottle near the
      fire, then tap the stopper with a wooden instrument. The heat
      will cause the oil to work round the stopper, and it should
      be easily removed.
    </p>
    <center>
      GREASE&#8212;TO REMOVE FROM A STONE HEARTH
    </center>
    <p>
      Lay plenty of hot ashes; wash off (after the grease is out)
      with strong soap suds.
    </p>
    <center>
      HARNESS BLACKING&#8212;FOR PRESERVING THE LEATHER
    </center>
    <p>
      Melt four ounces of mutton suet with twelve ounces of
      beeswax; add twelve ounces of sugar-candy, four ounces of
      soft soap dissolved in water, and two ounces of indigo,
      finely powdered. When melted and well mixed, add one-half
      pint of turpentine. Lay the blacking on the harness with a
      sponge, and polish off with a brush.
    </p>
    <center>
      FELT-HATS&#8212;TO RENOVATE
    </center>
    <p>
      Mix equal quantities of benzine and water, and after well
      brushing the hat, apply the mixture with a sponge.
    </p>
    <center>
      HERBS&#8212;TO DRY
    </center>
    <p>
      The right way in drying herbs for your kitchen and possible
      medicinal use is to gather them as soon as they begin to open
      their flowers, and to lay them on some netting in a dry shed
      or room where the air will get at them on all sides. Be sure
      they are dry and not moist when you cut or pick them, and
      free them from dirt and decayed leaves. After they are
      entirely dried out, put them in paper bags upon which you
      have written the name of the herb and the date of tying it
      up. Hang them where the air is dry and there is no chance of
      their moulding.
    </p>
    <center>
      SAVORY HERBS&#8212;TO POWDER
    </center>
    <p>
      Strip the leaves from the stalks, pound, sift out the coarse
      pieces, put the powder in bottles, and cork tight. Label with
      exactness every bottle. If, for the convenience of instant
      use in gravies, soups, etc., you wish different herbs mixed,
      pound the leaves together when you make them into powders.
      Celery seed, dried lemon-peel, and other spicy things can
      thus be combined and ready for the moment's call.
    </p>
    <center>
      ICE VAULT&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      Dig a pit eight or ten feet square, and as deep in the
      cellar. Lay a double wall with brick; fill between with
      pulverized charcoal; cover the bottom also double with the
      same or tan-bark. If the pit is filled with ice, or nearly
      so, cover six inches with tan-bark; but if only a small
      quantity is in it, wrap well in a blanket, and over the
      opening in the pit lay a double bag of charcoal.
    </p>
    <center>
      INK&#8212;TO REMOVE FROM LINEN
    </center>
    <p>
      Scald in hot tallow. Let it cool; then wash in warm suds.
      Sometimes these stains can be removed by wetting the place in
      very sour buttermilk or lemon juice; rub salt over, and
      bleach in the sun.
    </p>
    <center>
      INSECTS&#8212;TO KEEP AWAY
    </center>
    <p>
      The common elder is a great safeguard against the
      devastations of insects. Scatter it around cucumber and
      squash-vines. Place it on the branches of plum and other
      fruit-trees subject to the ravages of insects.
    </p>
    <center>
      IRONS&#8212;TO REMOVE RUST FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Scour with dry salt and beeswax.
    </p>
    <center>
      JAPANNED WARE&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Japanned tea-trays should not be washed in hot water if
      greasy, a little flour rubbed on with a bit of soft linen
      will give them a new look; if there are scratches, rub over a
      little olive oil.
    </p>
    <center>
      JEWELRY&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Jewels are generally wrapped up in cotton wool and kept in
      their cases; but they tarnish from exposure to the air and
      require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean soap-suds
      from fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold, silver, gilt
      or precious stones into this lye, and dry by brushing with a
      brush of soft hair, or a fine sponge; afterwards polish with
      a piece of fine cloth, and lastly, with a soft leather.
    </p>
    <p>
      Gold or silver ornaments, and in general all articles of
      jewelry, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits of wine
      warmed in a shallow kettle, placed over a slow fire or hot
      plate. Silver ornaments should be kept in fine arrowroot, and
      completely covered with it.
    </p>
    <center>
      KNIVES&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Cover a small heavy table on block by tacking over it very
      tight soft leather or buckskin; pour over half the leather
      melted suet. Spread over this very fine pulverized bath
      brick; rub the knives (making rapid strokes) over this.
      Polish on the other side. Keep steel wrapped in buckskin.
      Knives should be cleaned every day they are used, and kept
      sharp. The handles of knives should never be immersed in
      water, as, after a time, if treated in this way, the blades
      will loosen and the handles discolor. The blades should be
      put in a jug or vessel kept for the purpose, filled with hot
      soda water. This should be done as soon after the knives are
      used as possible, as stain and rust quickly sink into steel.
    </p>
    <center>
      KNIVES&#8212;TO KEEP
    </center>
    <p>
      Knives not in use will soon spoil. They are best kept in a
      box in which sifted quicklime has been placed, deep enough to
      admit of the blades being completely plunged into it. The
      lime must not touch the handles, which should be occasionally
      exposed to the air, to keep them from turning yellow.
    </p>
    <center>
      BLACK LACE&#8212;TO REVIVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Make some black tea, about the strength usual for drinking,
      and strain it off the leaves. Pour enough tea into a basin to
      cover the material, then squeeze the lace several times, but
      do not rub it. Dip it frequently into the tea, which will at
      length assume a dirty appearance. Have ready some weak
      gum-water and press the lace gently through it; then clap it
      for a quarter of an hour; after which, pin it to a towel in
      any shape which you wish it to take. When nearly dry, cover
      it with another towel and iron it with a cool iron. The lace,
      if previously sound and discolored only, will, after this
      process, look as good as new.
    </p>
    <center>
      LAMPS&#8212;TO TRIM
    </center>
    <p>
      In trimming lamps, let the wick be cut evenly all round; as,
      if left higher in one place than it is in another, it will
      cause it to smoke and burn badly. The lamp should then be
      filled with oil from a feeder and afterward well wiped with a
      cloth or rag. Small sticks, covered with wash-leather pads,
      are the best things to use for cleaning the inside of the
      chimney, and a clean duster for polishing the outside.
      Chimneys should not be washed. The globe of a lamp should be
      occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed
      in cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain.
    </p>
    <center>
      LEATHER&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      For fawn or yellow-colored leather, take a quart of skimmed
      milk, pour into it one ounce of sulphuric acid, and, when
      cold, add four ounces of hydrochloric acid, shaking the
      bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapors; separate
      the coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a
      sieve, and store it away till required. Clean the leather
      with a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off
      immediately, and when dry apply the composition with a
      sponge.
    </p>
    <center>
      TABLE LINEN&#8212;CARE OF
    </center>
    <p>
      Table-cloths, towels and napkins should be kept faultlessly
      white; table-cloths and napkins starched; if the latter are
      fringed, whip the fringe until straight. After using a
      table-cloth, lay it in the same folds; put it in a close
      place where dust will not reach it, and lay a heavy weight
      upon it.
    </p>
    <p>
      Napkins may be used the second time, if they are so marked
      that each person gets the napkin previously used.
    </p>
    <center>
      LINEN&#8212;TO GLAZE
    </center>
    <p>
      The gloss, or enamel, as it is sometimes called, is produced
      mainly by friction with a warm iron, and may be put on linen
      by almost any person. The linen to be glazed receives as much
      strong starch as it is possible to charge it with, then it is
      dried. To each pound of starch a piece of sperm or white wax,
      about the size of a walnut, is usually added. When ready to
      be ironed, the linen is laid upon the table and moistened
      very lightly on the surface with a clean wet cloth. It is
      then ironed in the usual way with a flatiron, and is ready
      for the glossing operation. For this purpose a peculiar heavy
      flatiron, rounded at the bottom, as bright as a mirror, is
      used. It is pressed firmly upon the linen and rubbed with
      much force, and this frictional action puts on the gloss.
      "Elbow grease" is the principal secret connected with the art
      of glossing linen.
    </p>
    <center>
      MACKINTOSH&#8212;TO REPAIR
    </center>
    <p>
      Shred finely some pure india-rubber, and dissolve it in
      naphtha to the consistency of a stiff paste. Apply the cement
      to each side of the part to be joined, and leave a cold iron
      upon it until dry.
    </p>
    <center>
      LINEN&#8212;TO REMOVE IRON MOULD FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Oxalic acid and hot water will remove iron-mould; so also
      will common sorrel, bruised in a mortar and rubbed on the
      spots. In both cases the linen should be well washed after
      the remedy has been applied, either in clear water or a
      strong solution of cream of tartar and water. Repeat if
      necessary, and dry in the sun.
    </p>
    <center>
      MAHOGANY&#8212;TO TAKE OUT MARKS FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      The whitest stain, left on a mahogany table by a jug of
      boiling water, or a very hot dish, may be removed by rubbing
      in oil, and afterward pouring a little spirits of wine on the
      spot and rubbing with a soft cloth.
    </p>
    <center>
      MARBLE&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Wash with soda, water, and beef-gall. Or mix together one
      part blue-stone, three parts whiting, one part soda, and
      three parts soft soap; boil together ten minutes; stir
      constantly. Spread this over the marble; let it lie half an
      hour; wash it off with soap-suds; wipe dry with flannel.
      Repeat if necessary. Stains that cannot be removed in any
      other way may be tried with oxalic acid water; but this
      should be used carefully, and not allowed to remain long at a
      time.
    </p>
    <center>
      MATTING&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Use salt in the water, and wipe dry.
    </p>
    <center>
      MILDEW&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      When the clothes are washed and ready to boil, pin jimson
      weed leaves upon the place. Put a handful of the leaves on
      the bottom of the kettle; lay the stained part next to them.
      Green tomatoes and salt, sour buttermilk, lemon juice, soap
      and chalk, are all good; expose to the sun.
    </p>
    <p>
      Another way: Two ounces of chloride of lime; pour on it a
      quarter of boiling water; add three quarts of cold water.
      Steep the cloth in it twelve hours.
    </p>
    <center>
      MIRRORS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Remove, with a damp sponge, fly stains and other soils (the
      sponge may be clamped with water or spirits of wine). After
      this dust the surface with the finest sifted whiting or
      powder-blue, and polish it with a silk handkerchief or soft
      cloth. Snuff of candle, if quite free from grease, is an
      excellent polish for the looking-glass.
    </p>
    <center>
      MOTHS&#8212;TO PREVENT THEM GETTING INTO CARPETS, ETC.
    </center>
    <p>
      Strew camphor under a carpet; pack with woolen goods. If
      moths are in a carpet, lay over it a cotton or linen cloth,
      and iron with a hot iron. Oil all cracks in storerooms,
      closets, safes, with turpentine, or a mixture of alcohol and
      corrosive sublimate; this drives off vermin.
    </p>
    <p>
      Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather,
      tobacco-leaves, boy-myrtle, or anything else strongly
      aromatic, in the drawers or boxes where furs or other things
      to be preserved from moths are kept, and they will never take
      harm.
    </p>
    <center>
      OIL-CLOTH OR LINOLEUM&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Take equal parts of skimmed milk and water; wipe dry; never
      use soap. Varnish oil-cloths once a year. After being
      varnished, they should be perfectly dry before being used.
    </p>
    <center>
      PAINT&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Dirty paint should never be wiped with a cloth, but the dust
      should be loosened with a pair of bellows, and then removed
      with a dusting-brush. If very dirty, wash the paint lightly
      with a sponge or soft flannel dipped in weak soda-and-water,
      or in pearl-ash and water. The sponge or flannel must be used
      nearly dry, and the portion of paint gone over must
      immediately be rinsed with a flannel and clean water; both
      soda and pearl-ash, if suffered to remain on, will injure the
      paint. The operation of washing should, therefore, be done as
      quickly as possible, and two persons should be employed; one
      to follow and dry the paint with soft rags, as soon as the
      other has scoured off the dirt and washed away the soda. No
      scrubbing-brush should ever be used on paint.
    </p>
    <center>
      PAINT&#8212;TO DISPERSE THE SMELL OF
    </center>
    <p>
      Place some sulphuric acid in a basin of water and let it
      stand in the room where the paint is. Change the water daily.
    </p>
    <center>
      PAINT&#8212;TO REMOVE FROM CLOTHING
    </center>
    <p>
      Rub immediately with a rough rag wetted with turpentine.
    </p>
    <center>
      OIL PAINTINGS&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Rub a freshly cut slice of potato damped in cold water over
      the picture. Wipe off the lather with a soft, damp sponge,
      and then finish with luke-warm water, and dry, and polish
      with a piece of soft silk that has been washed.
    </p>
    <center>
      PAPER HANGING&#8212;TO MAKE PASTE FOR
    </center>
    <p>
      Mix flour and water to the consistency of cream, and boil. A
      few cloves added in the boiling will prevent the paste going
      sour.
    </p>
    <center>
      PEARS&#8212;TO KEEP FOR WINTER USE
    </center>
    <p>
      Lay the pears on a shelf in a dry, cool place. Set them stems
      up and so far apart that they do not touch one another. Allow
      the air to move freely in the room in which they lie. Layers
      of paper or of straw make a soft bed, but the less the pear
      touches the shelf or resting-place the better for its
      keeping.
    </p>
    <center>
      PICTURE FRAMES&#8212;TO KEEP FLIES FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Brush them over with water in which onions have been boiled.
    </p>
    <center>
      GILT PICTURE FRAMES&#8212;TO BRIGHTEN
    </center>
    <p>
      Take sufficient sulphur to give a golden tinge to about one
      and one-half pints of water, and in this boil four or five
      bruised onions. Strain off the liquid when cold, and with it
      wash with a soft brush any gilding which requires restoring,
      and when dry it will come out as bright as new work. Frames
      may also be brightened in the following manner: Beat up the
      white of eggs with soda, in the proportion of three ounces of
      eggs to one ounce of soda. Blow off as much dust as possible
      from the frames, and paint them over with a soft brush dipped
      in the mixture. They will immediately come out fresh and
      bright.
    </p>
    <center>
      RATS&#8212;TO DESTROY
    </center>
    <p>
      Set traps and put a few drops of rhodium inside; they are
      fond of it. Cats are, however, the most reliable rat-traps.
      There is no difficulty in poisoning rats, but they often die
      in the walls, and create a dreadful odor, hard to get rid of.
      When poisoning is attempted, remove or cover all water
      vessels, even the well or cistern.
    </p>
    <center>
      RIBBONS&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      If there are grease spots, rub the yolk of an egg upon them,
      on the wrong side; let it dry. Lay it upon a clean cloth, and
      wash upon each side with a sponge; press on the wrong side.
      If very much soiled, wash in bran-water; add to the water in
      which it is rinsed a little muriate of tin to set red, oil of
      vitriol for green, blue, maroon, and bright yellow.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUST&#8212;TO PRESERVE FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine
      brush smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished
      surface requiring preservation. By this simple means, all the
      grates and fire-irons in an empty house may be kept for
      months free from harm, without further care or attention.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUST&#8212;TO REMOVE FROM POLISHED STEEL
    </center>
    <p>
      Rub the spots with soft animal fat; lay the articles by; wrap
      in thick paper two days; clean off the grease with flannel;
      rub the spots well with fine rotten-stone and sweet oil;
      polish with powdered emery and soft leather, or with magnesia
      or fine chalk.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUST&#8212;TO REMOVE FROM IRON UTENSILS
    </center>
    <p>
      Rub sweet oil upon them. Let it remain two days; cover with
      finely-powdered lime; rub this off with leather in a few
      hours. Repeat if necessary.
    </p>
    <p>
      To prevent their rusting when not in use: Mix half a pound of
      lime with a quart of warm water; add sweet oil until it looks
      like cream. Rub the article with this; when dry, wrap in
      paper or put over another coat. See also IRONS.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUST AND INK STAINS&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Put half an ounce of oxalic acid in a pint of water. Dip the
      stain in the water, and apply the acid as often as necessary.
      Wash very soon, in half an hour at least, or the cloth will
      be injured by the acid. Preserve in bottle marked "Poison."
      This also cleans brass beautifully.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUSTED SCREWS&#8212;TO LOOSEN
    </center>
    <p>
      [Transcriber's Note: Above title is as-presented in the
      original.]
    </p>
    <p>
      Boil scorched articles in milk and turpentine, half a pound
      of soap, half a gallon of milk. Lay in the sun.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUSTED SCREWS&#8212;TO LOOSEN
    </center>
    <p>
      Pour a small quantity of paraffin round the top of the screw.
      When sufficient time has been allowed for the oil to sink in,
      the screw can be easily removed.
    </p>
    <center>
      SEALING-WAX FOR BOTTLES, JARS, ETC.
    </center>
    <p>
      Three-fourths rosin, one-fourth beeswax; melt. Or use half a
      pound of rosin, the same quantity of red sealing-wax, and a
      half an ounce of beeswax; melt, and as it froths up, stir it
      with a tallow candle. Use new corks; trim (after driving them
      in securely) even with the bottle, and dip the necks in this
      cement.
    </p>
    <center>
      SHIRTS&#8212;TO IRON
    </center>
    <p>
      Use for ironing shirts a bosom-board, made of seasoned wood a
      foot wide, one and a half long, and an inch thick; cover it
      well by tacking over very tight two or three folds of
      flannel, according to the thickness of the flannel. Cover it
      lastly with Canton flannel; this must be drawn over very
      tight, and tacked well to prevent folds when in use. Make
      slips of fine white cotton cloth; put a clean one on every
      week. A shirt-board must be made in the same way for ironing
      dresses; five feet long, tapering from two feet at one end to
      a foot and a half at the other, the large end should be
      round. A clean slip should be upon it whenever used. A
      similar but smaller board should be kept for ironing
      gentlemen's summer pants. Keep fluting and crimping irons, a
      small iron for ruffles, and a polishing-iron.
    </p>
    <center>
      RUSSET SHOES&#8212;TO POLISH
    </center>
    <p>
      Remove stains with lemon juice, and polish with beeswax
      dissolved in turpentine.
    </p>
    <center>
      SHOES&#8212;TO PREVENT FROM CRACKING
    </center>
    <p>
      Saturate a piece of flannel in boiled linseed oil and rub it
      well over the soles and round the edges of the shoes, then
      stand them, soles upward, to dry.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILK&#8212;TO RENOVATE
    </center>
    <p>
      Sponge faded silks with warm water and soap; then rub them
      with a dry cloth on a flat board; afterward iron them on the
      inside with a smoothing-iron. Old black silks may be improved
      by sponging with spirits. In this case, the ironing may be
      done on the right side, thin paper being spread over to
      prevent glazing.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILK AND SATIN&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Pin the breadths on a soft blanket; then take some stale
      breadcrumbs, and mix with them a little powder-blue. Rub this
      thoroughly and carefully over the whole surface with the hand
      or a piece of clean linen; shake it off and wipe with soft
      cloths. Satin may be brushed the way of the nap with a clean,
      soft, hair-brush.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILK&#8212;TO TAKE STAINS FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Mix two ounces of essence of lemon and one ounce of
      turpentine. Grease and other spots in silks are to be rubbed
      gently with a linen rag dipped in this mixture.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILKS&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      For a dress to be washed, the seams of a skirt do not require
      to be ripped apart, though it must be removed from the band
      at the waist, and the lining taken from the bottom. Trimmings
      or drapings, where there are deep folds, the bottom of which
      is very difficult to reach, should be undone, so as to remain
      flat. A black silk dress, without being previously washed,
      may be refreshed by being soaked during twenty-four hours in
      soft, clear water, clearness in the water being
      indispensable. If dirty the black dress may be previously
      washed. When very old and rusty, a pint of alcohol should be
      mixed with each gallon of water. This addition is an
      improvement under any circumstances, whether the silk be
      previously washed or not. After soaking, the dress should be
      hung up to drain dry without being wrung. The mode of washing
      silks is this: The article should be laid upon a clean,
      smooth table. A flannel just wetted with lukewarm water
      should be well soaped, and the surface of the silk rubbed one
      way with it, care being taken that this rubbing is quite
      even. When the dirt has disappeared, the soap must be washed
      off with a sponge and plenty of cold water, of which the
      sponge must be made to imbibe as much as possible. As soon as
      one side is finished, the other must be washed precisely in
      the same manner. Let it be understood that not more of either
      surface must be done at a time than can be spread perfectly
      flat upon the table, and the hand can conveniently reach;
      likewise the soap must be quite sponged off one portion
      before the soaped flannel is applied to another portion.
      Silks, when washed, should always be dried in the shade, on a
      linen horse, and alone. If black or dark blue, they will be
      improved if they are placed on a table when dry, and well
      sponged with alcohol.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILVER&#8212;TO POLISH
    </center>
    <p>
      Boil soft rags for five minutes (nothing is better for the
      purpose than the tops of old cotton stockings) in a mixture
      of new milk and ammonia. As soon as they are taken out, wring
      them for a moment in cold water, and dry before the fire.
      With these rags rub the silver briskly as soon as it has been
      well washed and dried after daily use. A most beautiful deep
      polish will be produced, and the silver will require nothing
      more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry, soft
      cloth before it is again put on the table.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILVER&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Wash in hot soap suds (use the silver soap if convenient);
      then clean with a paste of whiting and water, or whiting and
      alcohol. Polish with buckskin. If silver was always washed in
      hot suds, rinsed well, and wiped dry, it would seldom need
      anything else.
    </p>
    <center>
      SILVER&#8212;TO REMOVE STAINS FROM
    </center>
    <p>
      Steep the silver in lye four hours; then cover thick with
      whiting wet with vinegar; let this dry; rub with dry whiting;
      and polish with dry wheat bran. Egg-stains may be removed
      from silver by rubbing with table salt.
    </p>
    <center>
      SOAK CLOTHES FOR WASHING&#8212;TO
    </center>
    <p>
      Take a gallon of water, one pound of sal soda, and one pound
      of soap; boil one hour, then add one tablespoonful of spirits
      of turpentine. Put the clothes to soak over night; next
      morning soap them well with the mixture. Boil well one hour;
      rinse in three waters; add a little bluing to the last water.
    </p>
    <center>
      SOFT SOAP&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      The ashes should be of hardwood (hickory is best), and kept
      dry. When put in the hopper, mix a bushel of unslacked lime
      with ten bushels of ashes; put in a layer of ashes; then one
      slight sprinkling of lime; wet each layer with water (rain
      water is best). A layer of straw should be put upon the
      bottom of the hopper before the ashes are put in. An opening
      in the side or bottom for the lye to drip through, and a
      trough or vessel under to receive the lye. When the lye is
      strong enough to bear up an egg, so as to show the size of a
      dime above the surface, it is ready for making soap; until it
      is, pour it back into the hopper, and let it drip through
      again. Add water to the ashes in such quantities as may be
      needed. Have the vessel very clean in which the soap is to be
      made. Rub the pot over with corn meal after washing it, and
      if it is at all discolored, rub it over with more until the
      vessel is perfectly clean. Melt three pounds of clean grease;
      add to it a gallon of weak lye, a piece of alum the size of a
      walnut. Let this stew until well mixed. If strong lye is put
      to the grease, at first it will not mix well with the grease.
      In an hour add three gallons of strong hot lye; boil briskly,
      and stir frequently; stir one way. After it has boiled
      several hours, cool a spoonful upon a plate; if it does not
      jelly, add a little water; if this causes it to jelly, then
      add water to the kettle. Stir quickly while the water is
      poured in until it ropes on the stick. As to the quantity of
      water required to make it jelly, judgment must be used; the
      quantity will depend upon circumstances. It will be well to
      take some in a bowl, and notice what proportion of water is
      used to produce this effect.
    </p>
    <p>
      To harden it: Add a quart of salt to this quantity of soap;
      let it boil quick ten minutes; let it cool. Next day cut it
      out. This is now ready for washing purposes.
    </p>
    <center>
      BROWN TAR SOAP&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      Take eight gallons of soft soap, two quarts of salt, and one
      pound of rosin, pulverized; mix, and boil half an hour. Turn
      it in a tub to cool.
    </p>
    <center>
      SOAP-POTASH&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      Six pounds of potash, five pounds of grease, and a quarter of
      a pound of powdered rosin; mix all well in a pot, and, when
      warm, pour on ten gallons of boiling water. Boil until thick
      enough.
    </p>
    <center>
      SOAP FOR CLEANING SILVER, ETC.&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      One bar of turpentine soap, three table-spoonfuls of spirits
      of turpentine, half a tumbler of water. Let it boil ten
      minutes. Add six tablespoonfuls of ammonia. Make a suds of
      this, and wash silver with it.
    </p>
    <center>
      SPERMACETI&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Scrape it off; put brown paper on the spot and press with hot
      iron.
    </p>
    <center>
      ACID STAINS&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Apply ammonia to neutralize the acid; after which apply
      chloroform. This will remove paints from garments when
      benzine has failed.
    </p>
    <center>
      STARCH&#8212;TO PREPARE
    </center>
    <p>
      Wet two tablespoonfuls of starch to a smooth paste with cold
      water; pour to it a pint of boiling water; put it on the
      fire; let it boil, stirring frequently until it looks
      transparent; this will probably require half an hour. Add a
      piece of spermaceti as large as half a nutmeg, or as much
      salt, or loaf sugar&#8212;this will prevent the starch from
      sticking to the iron.
    </p>
    <center>
      STARCH&#8212;COLD-WATER
    </center>
    <p>
      Mix the starch to a smooth cream with cold water, then add
      borax dissolved in boiling water in the proportion of a
      dessertspoonful to a teacupful of starch.
    </p>
    <center>
      MUSLINS&#8212;TO STARCH
    </center>
    <p>
      Add to the starch for fine muslins a little white gum Arabic.
      Keep a bottle of it ready for use. Dissolve two ounces in a
      pint of hot water; bottle it; use as may be required, adding
      it to the starch. Muslins, calicoes, etc., should never be
      stiffer than when new. Rice-water and isinglass stiffen very
      thin muslins better than starch.
    </p>
    <center>
      TAR AND PITCH&#8212;TO REMOVE
    </center>
    <p>
      Grease the place with lard or sweet oil. Let it remain a day
      and night; then wash in suds. If silk or worsted, rub the
      stain with alcohol.
    </p>
    <p>
      Paraffin will remove tar from the hands.
    </p>
    <center>
      UMBRELLAS&#8212;CARE OF
    </center>
    <p>
      An umbrella should not be folded up when it is wet. Let it
      stand with handle downwards, so that the wet can run off the
      ends of the ribs, instead of running towards the ferrule and
      rusting that part of the umbrella.
    </p>
    <center>
      VELVET&#8212;TO RENEW
    </center>
    <p>
      Hold the velvet, pile downwards, over boiling water, in which
      ammonia is dissolved, double the velvet (pile inwards) and
      fold it lightly together.
    </p>
    <center>
      WALL-PAPER&#8212;TO CLEAN
    </center>
    <p>
      Tie cotton upon a long stick; brush the walls well with this.
      When soiled, turn it, or rub the walls with stale loaf bread.
      Split the loaf, and turn the soft part to the wall.
    </p>
    <center>
      WHITEWASH&#8212;TO MAKE
    </center>
    <p>
      Put half a bushel of unslacked lime in a barrel; cover it
      with hot water; stir occasionally, and keep the vessel well
      covered. When slacked, strain into another barrel through a
      sieve. Put a pound of glue in a glue-pot; melt it over a slow
      fire until dissolved. Soak the glue in cold water before
      putting the pot over the fire. Dissolve a peck of salt in
      boiling water. Make a thin paste of three pounds of ground
      rice boiled half an hour. Stir to this half a pound of
      Spanish whiting. Now add the rice paste to the lime; stir it
      in well; then the glue; mix well; cover the barrel, and let
      it stand twenty-four hours. When ready to use, it should be
      put on hot. It makes a durable wash for outside walls,
      planks, etc., and may be colored. Spanish brown will make it
      red or pink, according to the quantity used. A delicate tinge
      of this is very pretty for inside walls. Lampblack in small
      quantities will make slate color. Finely pulverized clay
      mixed with Spanish brown, makes lilac. Yellow chrome or
      yellow ochre makes yellow. Green must not be used; lime
      destroys the color, and makes the whitewash peel.
    </p>
    <center>
      WINDOWS&#8212;TO WASH
    </center>
    <p>
      Wash well with soap suds; rinse with warm water; rub dry with
      linen; and finish by polishing with soft dry paper. A fine
      polish is given to window-glass by brushing it over with a
      paste of whiting. Let it dry; rub off with paper or cloth,
      and with a clean, dry brush, remove every particle of the
      whiting from the corners. Once a year will be altogether
      sufficient for this.
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>
    <p>
      &nbsp;
    </p>







<pre>





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