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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The London and Country Brewer + +Author: Anonymous + + +Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8900] +[This file was first posted on August 22, 2003] +Last updated: April 30, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER *** + + + + +Text file produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + +</pre> + + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER + </h1> + <h2> + By Anonymous + </h2> + <h3> + 1736 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>Containing an Account,</b> + </p> + <p> + I. Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures + for the Improvement thereof. + </p> + <p> + II. Of making good Malts. + </p> + <p> + III. To know good from bad Malts. + </p> + <p> + IV. Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts. + </p> + <p> + V. Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing. + </p> + <p> + VI. Of Grinding Malts. + </p> + <p> + VII. Of Brewing in general. + </p> + <p> + VIII. Of the <i>London</i> Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and + Brown Ales. + </p> + <p> + IX. Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing. + </p> + <p> + X. Of the Nature and Use of the Hop. + </p> + <p> + XI. Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little + Room, and with a few Tubs. + </p> + <p> + XII. Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure. + </p> + <p> + XIII. Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome + Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected. + </p> + <p> + XIV. Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and + relishing Malt Liquors. + </p> + <p> + XV. Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease + their Strength. + </p> + <p> + XVI. Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales. + </p> + <p> + XVII. Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks. + </p> + <p> + XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance. + </p> + <p> + XIX. Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors. + </p> + <p> + XX. Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of Buying + Malt Liquors. + </p> + <p> + To which is added, + </p> + <p> + XXI. A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong <i>October</i> Beer. By an + Ingenious Hand. + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p> + By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at <i>London</i>, but + for twenty Years past has resided in the Country. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h4> + The SECOND EDITION, Corrected. <br /> <br /> LONDON <br /> <br /> Printed for + Messeurs Fox, at the <i>Half-Moon and Seven Stars</i>, in <i>Westminster-Hall</i>. + M.DCC.XXXVI. <br /> <br /> {Price Two Shillings.} + </h4> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> THE PREFACE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> CHAP. I. <i>Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, + and of the proper Soils and Manures for the Improvement thereof</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> CHAP. II. <i>Of making</i> Malts. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> CHAP. III. <i>To know good from bad</i> Malts. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> CHAP. IV. <i>Of the Nature and Use of Pale, + Amber and Brown</i> Malts. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> CHAP. V. <i>Of the Nature of several Waters and + their use in Brewing. And first of Well-waters</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> CHAP. VI. <i>Of Grinding</i> Malts. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> CHAP. VII. <i>Of Brewing in general</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> CHAP. VIII. <i>The</i> London <i>Method of + Brewing</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> CHAP. IX. <i>The Country or private way of + Brewing</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> CHAP. X. <i>The Nature and Use of the Hop</i>. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> CHAP. XI. <i>Of Boiling Malt Liquors</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> CHAP. XII. <i>Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors</i>. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> CHAP. XIII. <i>Of fermenting and working of + Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice of Beating in the Yeast + detected</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> CHAP. XIV. <i>Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or + Stale Beer to feed on</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> CHAP. XV. <i>Of several pernicious Ingredients + put into Malt Liquors to encrease their Strength</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> CHAP. XVI. <i>Of the Cellar or Repository for + keeping Beers and Ales</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> CHAP. XVII. <i>Of Cleaning and Sweetening of + Casks</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> CHAP. XVIII. <i>Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of + Malt Liquors to some distance</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> CHAP. XIX. <i>Of the Strength and Age of Malt + Liquors</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> CHAP. XX. <i>Of the Pleasure and Profit of + Private Brewing, and the Charge of buying Malt Liquors</i>. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> CHAP. XXI. <i>A Philosophical Account for + Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer. By an Ingenious Hand</i>. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE PREFACE. + </h2> + <p> + The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have + for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant + Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing + injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great + Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy + Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing, + Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body and + Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing Malt + Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a + considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food; + so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of + the Body. + </p> + <p> + This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our + Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either + to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or + take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill + Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers. + </p> + <p> + Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several + Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and + preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt + itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I + thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome + Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled + People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's + Health. + </p> + <p> + <i>I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard + both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly + ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been + partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time + very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the + Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in + making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a + matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled + too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this + Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one + ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode + the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties + that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink; + for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding + Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort + by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second + Book made appear. </i> + </p> + <p> + I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite + in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high + Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and + therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have + been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities + of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice. + </p> + <p> + So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an + Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error + of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot + Water on the Malt. + </p> + <p> + The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and + Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in + some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt + Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without + the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint. + </p> + <p> + The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the + ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here + exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily + prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter. + </p> + <p> + By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered, + I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge + of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in + Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great + Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our + Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will + come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own + Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but + enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly + pleasant, fine, strong and healthful. + </p> + <p> + I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being + neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that + their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not + write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by + Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of + the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here + plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost + finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth + how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that + will be of considerable Service to the World. + </p> + <p> + {Illustration} + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. I. <i>Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and + Manures for the Improvement thereof</i>. + </h2> + <p> + This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that + produce those fine <i>British</i> Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other + Nation can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the + several Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also + attended with a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their + several particulars, and first of Soils. + </p> + <p> + This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and + thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising + therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both + ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat + like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of + contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much + better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are + better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish + Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower, which + occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at <i>Dunstable</i>, <i>Tring</i> + and <i>Dagnal</i> from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly + Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference + in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as + appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas + in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &c. For our Mother Earth, + as it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables, + is composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein. + And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege + for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his + advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several + natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural + Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is + obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy + Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and + nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under + the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &c. + are sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads, + Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come + off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of <i>London</i> + and other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as + those produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures. + </p> + <p> + There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some + of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the + same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous + qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its + best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great + quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they + become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so + affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making + such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open + Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year + called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick + and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part + of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose + parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making + a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and + afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables + that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things + that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from + the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in + Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the + Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables, + and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the + Creation supplies. + </p> + <p> + Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor + lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts + that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt + of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof + both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes + very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry + Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the + Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much + encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are + often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or + less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in + which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves + its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that + are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the + nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but + when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come + into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books, + entituled, <i>Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained</i>, and, <i>The + Practical Farmer</i>; both writ by <i>William Ellis</i> of <i>Little + Gaddesden</i> near <i>Hempstead</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>, not only for + Barley, but other Grains. + </p> + <p> + But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure; + and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged + or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by + its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if + it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will + be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt, + because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that + which was inned dry. + </p> + <p> + Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest, + another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at + once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and + the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest, + the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of + it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these + irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the + ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into + the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews, + makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the + assistance of such steeping. + </p> + <p> + Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and + small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis + therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but + take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this + makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the + Vale of <i>Ailsbury</i>, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams, + to sow in Chalks, Gravels, &c. Others every second Year will go from + hence to <i>Fullham</i> and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows + there on Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this + Corn, and whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and + white Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty + Sorts. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. II. <i>Of making</i> Malts. + </h2> + <p> + As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to + treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden + or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered + with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell; + here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve + Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for + that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains, + requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on + Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly, + when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it + is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush + it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a + little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is + a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt + will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause + deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of + the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then + the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and + better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in + temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put + into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the + Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the + Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one + or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or + eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always + keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd; + and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four + or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air, + which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so + must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye + and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick, + ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire; + but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be + turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is + warm, as in <i>March, April</i> or <i>May</i>; and when it is fixed and + the Root begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully + kept often turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive, + and this is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's + Art and Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and + turning the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is, + that the Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if + it does, the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left + behind but the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree + and fit for the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let + it lye twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will + much improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time + it must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is + overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause + the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be + put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature + of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than + the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a + sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is + often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry + about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should + be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The + time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according + to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often + sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in + the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and + where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed, + it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap, + but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put + it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it. + </p> + <p> + There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron + Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The + Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled + one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel, + for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and + jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or + scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the + body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over + it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used + quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and + perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled: + Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by + burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as + formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to + scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the + Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only + turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for + drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more + leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the + Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all. + </p> + <p> + Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal, + Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed + all others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because + it sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that + Wood, Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but + there is a difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being + large Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the + Sulphur is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this + when it is truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but + one Cinder as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of + this one is capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often + by the negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by + some wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from <i>Swanzey</i> + in <i>Pembrokeshire</i>, being of a hard stony substance in small bits + resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its + sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward + parts of the grainy body: In <i>Devonshire</i> I have seen their Marble or + grey Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme + makes, and both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet + moderate and certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it. + </p> + <p> + Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all. + </p> + <p> + Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five + Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will + Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt, + as the Pea will. + </p> + <p> + I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts + in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done + him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason + others won't like such a mixture. + </p> + <p> + But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to + come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is + thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but + will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once + done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it + was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a + little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not + thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt, + when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the + Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was + the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid + beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from + Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick + crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such + unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of + until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the + Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good + Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to + happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and + Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the + Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on + the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its + Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having + its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts + contribute to as well as the Hop. + </p> + <p> + There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by + Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so + mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its + black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be + entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and + makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a + small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer + despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible, + because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it, + by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made + with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of + Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale + of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers + in the Body. + </p> + <p> + Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in + the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the + Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a + strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where + there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its + inebriating quality. + </p> + <p> + There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen, + Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here + a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak, + soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a + strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more + practised then ever. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. III. <i>To know good from bad</i> Malts. + </h2> + <p> + This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and + private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the + Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be + Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived + towards <i>Ware</i>, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two + hundred Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without + which 'tis impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I + know but of few Ways, <i>First</i>, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn + across between the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it + tasteth mellow and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower + all its length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; <i>Secondly</i>, + By Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it + swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true + Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own + this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd, + split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an + allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a + judgment. <i>Thirdly</i>, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and + steely, but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board, + will mark and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. <i>Fourthly</i>, Malt + that is not rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and + weigh heavier than that which is true Malt. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. IV. <i>Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown</i> Malts. + </h2> + <p> + The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has + had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due + care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full + quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown + high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings <i>per</i> + Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious sort to + the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and nearest + to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and Balsamick + quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of this Malt + bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of the great + Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and binding + Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt, either in + Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters in brewing + of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that which is + dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is very much + in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant, its taste + agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd by many as + the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or soft waters, + or a mixture of both. + </p> + <p> + The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so + hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often + so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its + essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant + Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he + does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion + the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and + is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts, + being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the + Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made + from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this + reason the <i>London</i> Brewers mostly use the <i>Thames</i> or <i>New + River</i> waters to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature, + whereby it agrees with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the + well or other hard Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and + a But-beer that will keep very well five or six Months, but after that + time it generally grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve + Bushels allowed to the Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly. + </p> + <p> + Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright + pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak + to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish, + that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or + Fern, &c. The Coak or <i>Welch</i> Coal also makes more true and + compleat Malt, as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its + fire gives both a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all + their Parts gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained + such a Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts + of the Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make + such fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my + Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty + Miles from <i>London</i>. + </p> + <p> + Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best + tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat, + Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of + the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more + uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a + moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the + taste of the smoak. + </p> + <p> + Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed + is not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few + can bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its + strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of <i>England</i>, + and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used in <i>London</i> + for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it sold for two + Shillings <i>per</i> Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt, nor was + this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its Brewers, + for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the Age of the + Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were used in its + Preservation. + </p> + <p> + The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from + the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed, + as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our + Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty. + </p> + <p> + At <i>Bridport</i> in <i>Dorsetshire</i>, I knew an Inn-keeper use half + Pale and half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my + Palate the best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted + for, in that the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed, + must produce a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will + reduce those extreams to a proper Quality. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. V. <i>Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And + first of Well-waters</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a + Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and + is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of + the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious + and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies, + and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer + every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those + Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr<i>.Mead</i> observes, some waters are so + loaded with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are + carried, in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that + petrifying nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the + <i>Parisians</i> have been instances of, by using this sort of water out + of the River <i>Seine</i>. And of this Nature is another at <i>Rowel</i> + in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, which in no great distance of time so clogs + the Wheel of an overshot Mill there, that they are forced with, convenient + Instruments to cut way for its Motion; and what makes it still more + evident, is the sight of those incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that + the hard Well-waters are the occasion of, by being often boiled in them: + And it is further related by the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted + with frequent returns of violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of + <i>Van Helmont</i>, only by leaving off drinking Beer brewed with + Well-water; It's true, such a fluid has a greater force and aptness to + extract the tincture out of Malt, than is to be had in the more innocent + and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this very reason it ought not, unless + upon meer necessity, to be made use of; this Quality being owing to the + mineral Particles and alluminous Salts with which it is impregnated. For + these waters thus saturated, will by their various gravities in + circulation, deposit themselves in one part of the animal Body or other, + which has made some prove the goodness of Water by the lightness of its + body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of the <i>London</i> Shops, + in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky, Hypochondriack, and other ill + Effects of the Clayey and other gross Particles of stagnating Well-waters, + and the calculous Concretions of others; and therefore such waters ought + to be mistrusted more than any, where they are not pure clear and soft or + that don't arise from good Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally + allowed to afford the best of all the Well sorts. + </p> + <p> + Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro' + which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At <i>Uppingham</i> + in <i>Rutland</i>, their water is said to come off an Allum-rock, and so + tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is easily tasted at the + first Draught. And at <i>Dean</i> in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, I have seen + the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of a + Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water + that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally + accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in + that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but + undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may + accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in, + great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at <i>Ailsbury</i> to soften + their water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp + that it will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its + Original State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the + Alcalous soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses. + </p> + <p> + River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying, + saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring + sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the + Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's + heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict, + that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of + them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to + avoid two that run cross a Road in <i>Bucks</i> and <i>Hertfordshire</i>: + But in their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy + mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new + fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the <i>Thames</i> + water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the + hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall + hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time, + when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a + Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of + Cattle, &c. and in good Air, as that of <i>Barkhamstead St. Peters</i> + in <i>Hertfordshire</i> is; it may then justly claim the name of a most + excellent water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same + quantity of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the <i>Thames</i> + has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as + Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable + degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn + fine in a few Days after Tunning. + </p> + <p> + Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best + Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of + Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very + agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but + for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well, + as being apt to putrify the soonest of any. + </p> + <p> + Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are + good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the + water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an + open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it + then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that + of <i>Blew-pot</i> Pond on the high Green at <i>Gaddesden</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i> + and many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of + the soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or + full of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as + to force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of + all others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are + so low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to + take out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant + waters are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so + far scrutinized into the prime Cause of our <i>British</i> malady the + Scurvy, as to affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating + waters, and especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are + about <i>Londonderry</i> and <i>Amsterdam</i>, for that where the waters + are worst, there this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings + they have put it out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms + that are rank'd under this general Name, if they don't take their + beginning from such water, do own it to be their chief Cause. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. VI. <i>Of Grinding</i> Malts. + </h2> + <p> + As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily + deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the + good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the + Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will + cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just + broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate + its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then + an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same + Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are + likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they + use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air, + that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its + harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt + acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may + be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition, + and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more + freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than + if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better + tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the + leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they + are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them + what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt + so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the + great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but + now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by + the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge + of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do + before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of + the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the + Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at <i>London</i> + I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that with one + Horse would grind {blank space} quarters an Hour, But in the Country I use + a steel Hand-mill, that Cost at first forty Shillings; which will by the + help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an Hour, and will last + a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There are some + old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries for and + prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the Corn's + body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the Malt so + broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and regular Power + to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more confin'd within + its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in Use for their + great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is frequently done by + some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor as soon as it is + ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a Day or two, that + the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it received from the + Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. VII. <i>Of Brewing in general</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated + Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been + concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the + Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it + no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little; + from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and + Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed + unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided + thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some + degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician + enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones, + Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we + consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted + Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again + with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be + very pernicious to the <i>British</i> human Body especially, which + certainly suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of + Flesh that we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and + therefore are more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick + mucilaginous Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one + makes a lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or + less thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's + fine. The late Curious <i>Simon Harcourt</i> Esq; of <i>Penly</i>, whom I + have had the honour to drink some of his famous <i>October</i> with, + thought the true Art of Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to + Cost him near twenty Pounds to have an old Days-man taught it by a <i>Welch</i> + Brewer, and sure it was this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts + afterwards in the Brewing of that which he called his <i>October</i> Beer. + So likewise in <i>London</i> they lay such stress on this Art, that many + have thought it worth their while to give one or two hundred Guineas with + an Apprentice: This Consideration also made an Ambassador give an + extraordinary Encouragement to one of my Acquaintance to go over with him, + that was a great Master of this Science. But notwithstanding all that can + be said that relates to this Subject, there are so many Incidents + attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled several expert Men to account + for their difference, though brewed by the same Brewer, with the same + Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and Town, and tapp'd at the + same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and well Tasted, while the + others have not had any worth drinking, now this may be owing to the + different Weather in the same Month, that might cause an Alteration in the + working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be so convenient, or + that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &c. But it has + been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer constantly, + and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in dry Vaults or + Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been generally good. + And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time is required to + ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in Hogsheads, because the + greater quantity must have the longer time; so also a greater quantity + will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on this account the + Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all others; but all + under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep their Bodies. + The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as being generally + set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast, that greatly + contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits of a most + convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by its broad + level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and preserving + Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the long + Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this time + in greater Reputation than ever in <i>London</i>, and the Home-brew'd + Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in + its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded + with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short + Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter + Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the + Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and + staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not + admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that + the handful of Salt which the <i>Plymouth</i> Brewers put into their + Hogshead, hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice + of. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. VIII. <i>The</i> London <i>Method of Brewing</i>. + </h2> + <p> + In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a + considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common + Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well + Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and + Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice + there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Stout Butt Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often + sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the + wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the <i>London</i> + Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first + Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd + over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very + hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be + in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the + Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted, + look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the + Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the + Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel + of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any; + immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the + Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this + they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square + Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom + into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an + Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there + is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash + Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash + again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an + Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a + half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd + with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite + Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made + after the Stout. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Brewing strong brown Ale called</i> Stitch. + </p> + <p> + This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer + Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and + is sold for Eight-pence <i>per</i> Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun, + and is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular + Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by {Blank space} <i>Medlicot</i> + Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him + very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a + greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the + fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the + Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same + Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only + boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer + than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is + often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is + wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much + fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers</i>. + </p> + <p> + As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or + Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown + Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the + rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so + also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more + Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing + pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second + Book of Brewing. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it, + and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into + the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar, + and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost + scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the + Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the + Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first + wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be + Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way + in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because + it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way + for the hotter Liquor that is to follow. + </p> + <p> + <i>The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from + Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common + Brewhouse</i>. + </p> + <p> + For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and + sold for thirty Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or + strong brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and + Fourpence <i>per</i> Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel + and a half or more, at sixteen Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel, that holds + thirty two Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six + Barrels off a Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel from + the Tun. For Pale and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling + <i>per</i> Gallon from the Tun. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. IX. <i>The Country or private way of Brewing</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised + in <i>Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle</i>, and many other Places; + but evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most + serviceable both in Country and <i>London</i> private Families. And first, + I shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more + than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the + former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more + Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person + can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its + united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less + charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the + private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt + ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better + clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast + and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so + well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too + forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do; + he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some + measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a + private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full + thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran + or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in + the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the + water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else + lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the + steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in + about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel + of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an + Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just + mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the + old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that + Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence + or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will + easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the + after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run + thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the + water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the + Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or + small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to slow + that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which will + occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially if the + <i>Dundle</i> way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small as a + Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the Barrel: + Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then the + second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and drawn out + with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the Malt is done, + then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt to the four + Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be spread all over + it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or other Cloths to + keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it stand two or three + Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a Bowl of the boiling + water in the Copper as is before directed, and so continue to do till as + much is run off as will almost fill the Copper; then in a Canvas or other + loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops and boil them half an Hour, + when they must be taken out, and as many fresh ones put in their room as + is judged proper to boil half an Hour more, if for Ale: But if for keeping + Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones should be put in at every half Hour's + end, and Boil an Hour and a half briskly: Now while the first Copper of + wort is Boiling, there should be scalding water leisurely put over the + Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off, that the Copper may be filled again + immediately after the first is out, and boiled an Hour with near the same + quantity of fresh Hops, and in the same manner as those in the first + Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for small Beer may be all cold water put + over the Grains at once, or at twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with + the Hops that has been boil'd before. But here I must observe, that + sometimes I have not an opportunity to get hot water for making all my + second Copper of wort, which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply + what was wanting. Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead + of Ale with the two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer + with the other two, but this more or less according to please me, always + taking Care to let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and + cool in four or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many + Hogsheads of midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong + enough for myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping + Beer, the first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the + rest small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of + for strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according + to the <i>London</i> Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with + the Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper + of good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they + take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome + the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt + or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing + done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most necessary + in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or more Brands + ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a burnt Toast of + Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that this must not be + done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood; lest it does more + harm than good. + </p> + <p> + <i>Another Way</i>. + </p> + <p> + When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the + former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in + it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be + ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt: + This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring + of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or <i>October</i> + Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was for Ale, or + Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the Copper by + remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and kept a Week + or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to it, and may be + brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this as well as in + the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of wort into the + Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes absolutely fine and + clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good: Others will reserve + this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it there a Week in Winter, + or two or three Days in Summer, according to Conveniency, by putting fresh + water every Day to it, and use it instead of water for the first Mash, + alledging it is better so than boiled, because by that it is thickened and + will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a Benefit to a Victualler + that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small Beer; because for such + small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there is no Excise to be + pay'd. + </p> + <p> + <i>For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it + from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other + Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further + enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or + Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and + wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but + Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are + there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no + small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their + Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this, + and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this <i>Item</i> + and prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before + any other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile + small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear, + put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then + throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it + stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot + and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency + allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold + instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by + putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of + Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted + twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit. + Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a + Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle + gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had + more leisure to brew better. + </p> + <p> + <i>A particular way of Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly + after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all + his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let + the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the + former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put + again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this + for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and + put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for + his <i>October</i> Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods + at once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an + Hour undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot + water put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was + observed that his <i>October</i> Beer was the most famous in the Country, + but his Grains good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out + all or most of their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and + once his Beer did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost, + yet when the weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards + proved very good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in + the Vat, and was never tapp'd under three Years. + </p> + <p> + This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the + Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the + same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an + opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more + than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his <i>October</i> + or <i>March</i> Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of <i>Penly October</i> + Beer is at this time well known not only throughout <i>Hertfordshire</i>, + but several other remote Places, and truly not without desert, for in all + my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a clear amber + Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what excell'd all + was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his Viands and + this <i>October</i> Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I remember his + usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my <i>October</i>, + and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not only the + rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even in + advance, whenever they had Business at <i>Penly</i>, as expecting a + refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a + good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater + Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the + Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of Brewing Molosses Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in + the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer + when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of + fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse, + and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings <i>per</i> Quarter, and like + to be so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable + excellent Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book + intituled, <i>Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained</i>: There is no great + danger of that, Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very + unwholsome, because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of + Treacle into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as + very probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker: + Tho' in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have + known some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does + not breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep + open the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose + they put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first + mixing it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops + or more one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons. + </p> + <p> + <i>A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or</i> October <i>Beer + from</i> Nottingham. + </p> + <p> + His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for + four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he + puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam + is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot + water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will + bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run + leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as + can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling; + when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in + the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the + next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or + Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or + Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be + returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless + the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it + will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen + Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over + he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is + running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock + spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty + one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub, + wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the + second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper + boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former + was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out + into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first + wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden + Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to + preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then + upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas + or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the + Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away + very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues + boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged, + and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very + thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and + boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity + of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will + be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with + some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as + the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four + Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if + necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will + make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding + of Hogs. + </p> + <p> + <i>Observations on the foregoing Method</i>. + </p> + <p> + The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet + three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is + expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of + water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned. + </p> + <p> + By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt + is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way + made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides + the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream + than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that + discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual + running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of + sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook + is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the + very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink. + </p> + <p> + This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort + from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his + first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and + when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick + to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled + or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the + Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the + Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of + putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect + Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin. + </p> + <p> + By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is + thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so + agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping <i>October</i> + Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter + is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer + is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of + Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more + strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some + Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept. + </p> + <p> + I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a + standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break + or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an + Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and + Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that + boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the + thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first + away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye + in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole + cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the + wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity + may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in + the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss + than Profit. + </p> + <p> + I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop + in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great + damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the + spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. X. <i>The Nature and Use of the Hop</i>. + </h2> + <p> + This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on + the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient, + and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that + falacious Notion is obviated by Dr<i>.Quincy</i> and others, who have + proved that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that + mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a + dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been + infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old + ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on + as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature, + composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and + with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the + Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure + Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both + ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great + Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak + Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two + Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three + for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of + Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And + according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of + the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour, + then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of + fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an + opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself + the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the + Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the + same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but + observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the + Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's + true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater + quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the + desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time + will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider + their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in + their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be + much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as + well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to + give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that + many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt + Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not + lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little + Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they + acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have + been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as + they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my + Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it + would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be + in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling + Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most + general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in + its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order. + </p> + <p> + After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have + thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same + time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve + to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been + sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it + is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless. + </p> + <p> + When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they + buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others <i>Daucus</i> or wild + Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor + People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their + wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb <i>Horehound</i>, which indeed + is a fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons. + </p> + <p> + But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite, + as I have already done of a <i>London</i> one, and that is, of an Arch + Fellow that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to + save all the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean, + then would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of + <i>Horehound</i> on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and + bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them + for new Hops. + </p> + <p> + Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose + Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the + Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body; + they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy, + valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but in + raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper, and + afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before hinted. + </p> + <p> + Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is + greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany + both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to + tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding + the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be + so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes + our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are + made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be + planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their + Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice. + </p> + <p> + For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops + that were then two Shillings <i>per</i> Pound, use but a quartern instead + of a Pound, the rest he supplied with <i>Daucus</i> Seeds; but to be more + particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several + Impositions. <i>First</i>, He underboil'd his Wort to save its + Consumption: <i>Secondly</i>, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and + <i>Thirdly</i>, He beat the Yeast in for some time to encrease the + strength of the Drink; and all these in such a <i>Legerdemain</i> manner + as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant Drinker to such a degree as not to + suspect the Fraud, and that for these three Reasons: <i>First</i>, The + underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste than ordinary, was esteemed + the Produce of a great allowance of Malt. <i>Secondly</i>, The <i>Daucus</i> + Seed encreased their approbation by the fine Peach flavour or relish that + it gives the Drink; and <i>Thirdly</i>, The Yeast was not so much as + thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor. These artificial + Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so prevalent with the + Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known this Victualler + have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had much more + wholsome at the same time; for the <i>Daucus</i> Seed tho' it is a + Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort + it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the + clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a + Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing + Obstructions of the <i>Viscera</i>, and particularly of the Liver and + Kidneys, as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops + are a Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XI. <i>Of Boiling Malt Liquors</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling <i>October</i> + Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that + an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some + Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all + sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be + curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but + afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean + and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard + not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this + will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its + being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has + the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays, + then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because + it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort. + </p> + <p> + It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in + the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it + should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less + than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the + Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer. + </p> + <p> + Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if + too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be + unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest + our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other + misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to + staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full + time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then + thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the + Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be + right clear in the Barrel; an <i>Item</i> sufficient to shew the mistake + of all those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or + three Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than + good to the Drink. + </p> + <p> + But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I + have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good, + because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways + detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of + the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it + running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are + not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great + measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the + Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and + comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which + consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and + secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured + before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread, + that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in + those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole + Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling + of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an + eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the + nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the + genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save + the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great + Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford + such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded + People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an <i>Ignis fatuus</i>, or + what is not. + </p> + <p> + To come then to the <i>Crisis</i> of the Matter, both Time and the + Curdling or Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was + to boil the Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it + was rightly broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not + be fine nor wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two + Hours, without regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it + may be too thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to + obtain it its due order; therefore in <i>October</i> and keeping Beers, an + Hour and a quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a + thorough cured Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil + enough, and because in this there is a double Security by length of + boiling, and a quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only + a single one, and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops + boiled only half an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is + assigned, that the Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities, + will by them and their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling + the Wort; and that a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only + the fine wholsome strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink, + exclusive of the phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted + if the Hops were to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are + many now, that are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew + Ale or <i>October</i> Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet, + that if Hops are boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or + more of their worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer, + cannot be exactly adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the + Proportion should be according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the + Season of the Year it is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be + kept. + </p> + <p> + For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an + Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd + in three Weeks or a Month. + </p> + <p> + If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a + quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months, + there should be more Hops allowed. + </p> + <p> + For <i>October</i> or <i>March</i> brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven + Bushels of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months, + three Pounds and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least. + </p> + <p> + For <i>October</i> or <i>March</i>, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels, + boiled an Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to + be allowed to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted + in two Bags, and less time given the Wort to boil. + </p> + <p> + Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly + improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in + Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so; + but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an + Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well + relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly + wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly + publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just + enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XII. <i>Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by + divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too + thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one + after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors + taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great + Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his + Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to + him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all + Servants that Name the word <i>Fox</i> or <i>Foxing</i>, in the Brewhouse + to pay Sixpence, which obliges them to call it <i>Reynards</i>; for when + once the Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like + a <i>Fox</i>; It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and + Ale so Tainted to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is + receive'd in a great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short + time turn Sour. This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers, + that they have asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his + Master's Interest tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the + Malt that causes that sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home + how cleverly he came off. I have had it also in the Country more than + once, and that by the idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub + has been rinced out only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one + but this won't do with a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub + with a Hand-brush, Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot + scrape any Dirt up under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has + baffled the Efforts of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding + out a Remedy for the great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on + this Score. + </p> + <p> + And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and + curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of + the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it + before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness + and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of + such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in + hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there + is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain + that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts: + So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is + apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or + working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such + Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the + Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and + work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order; + but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross + nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel, + corrupt and make it worse. + </p> + <p> + Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the + Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or + Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but + then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as + fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind. + </p> + <p> + There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and + Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my + Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged + in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how + scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the + Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful + Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the + same. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XIII. <i>Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the + pernicious Practice of Beating in the Yeast detected</i>. + </h2> + <p> + This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the + ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much + discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under + many Years, especially by the <i>Northern</i> Brewers, who tho' much famed + for their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their + Example in the <i>Southern</i> and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet + I shall endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in + the Yeast, as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom + ought not to Authorize an ill Practice. <i>First</i>, I shall observe that + Yeast is a very strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous + Qualities, whose Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are + by a mixture with them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion, + occasion'd by Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous + Parts of the Wort will be continually striving to get up to the Surface, + the glutinous adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding + their assent, and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous + Particles are set loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may + appear by the Froth on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens + the Operation, as it assists in opening the viscidities in which some + spirituous Parts may be entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included + Air: The viscid Parts which are raised to the Top, not only on account of + their own lightness, but by the continual efforts and occursions of the + Spirits to get uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and + prevent the finer Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine + Operation is permitted to continue too long, a great deal will get away, + and the remaining grow flat and vapid, as Dr. <i>Quincy</i> well observes. + Now tho' a small quantity of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of + Corruption in the Wort, yet it is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many + other Acids are; for if a Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist + as some have done for an Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or + Blisters in some degree like that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a + particular Sense to call it) Ingredient <i>Cantharide</i>, which is one of + the Shop Poisons. Here then I shall observe, that I have known several + beat the Yeast into the Wort for a Week or more together to improve it, or + in plainer terms to load the Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous + Particles; and that for two Reasons, <i>First</i>, Because it will make + the Liquor so heady, that five Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to + six, and that by the stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which + mercenary subtilty and imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with + the Vulgar and Ignorant, that it has caused many of them to return the + next Day to the same Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better + Drink than others: But alas, how are such deceived that know no other than + that it is the pure Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are + driving Nails into their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the + corrupt Qualities of this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have + proved, by suffering violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other + Inconveniencies the Day following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch + of such Liquor; who would not perhaps for a great reward swallow a + Spoonful of thick Yeast by itself, and yet without any concern may receive + for ought they know several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the + corrosive Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail + (when forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same + mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this + difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the + animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost + recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a + most learned Doctor observes. + </p> + <p> + <i>Secondly</i>, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it + gives it a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at <i>London</i>, it + makes the Ale bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other + reason than to further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some + Bigots, to me it proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous + taste; however my surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the <i>Plymouth</i> + People, who are quite the reverse of them at <i>Dover</i> and <i>Chatham</i>; + for the first are so attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have + undone themselves by drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to + the common Brewers brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they + immediately put in a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring + it up, this is no sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may + carry a Froth on the Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt + commonly answered its End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the + great Quantities they drank, that it farther excited by the biting + pleasant stimulating quality the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower + also had its seducing share by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its + mantling Froth, so that the Sailors that are often here in great Numbers + used to consume many Hogsheads of this common Ale with much delight, as + thinking it was intirely the pure Product of the Malt. + </p> + <p> + Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with + what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower + of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a <i>Nostrum</i> made and sold only by + two or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by + many of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen + Steens, in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for + Twopence Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to + be drank by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a + prevalent Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the <i>Dover</i> and <i>Chatham</i> + People won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of working and fermenting</i> London <i>Stout Beer and Ale</i>. + </p> + <p> + In my Brewhouse at <i>London</i>, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun + to work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of + doing otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the + same Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means, + and the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot + make Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working + of those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the + Year, as most of the great ones do in <i>London</i>, and some others five + times. The strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in + the Winter when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two + Nights and a Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation + as the common brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty, + such Beer won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale + has indeed its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they + carry it away the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly + draw it out in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often + kept near it, not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better + incorporating the Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the + foregoing Reasons. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families</i>. + </p> + <p> + I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private + Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of + the Ales; the way that is used in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, and by good + Brewers elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm + Wort in a Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it + works out and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in + Summer, and almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it + will keep, too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick + a motion, whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon, + and then the Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never + natural; but when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd + Head, its Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right + management of the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine + Months, I put a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will + admit of, two Days together, in <i>October</i> or <i>March</i>, and if I + find it works too fast, I check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort + with a Hand-bowl: So likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same + method, because of having them keep some time, and this is so nicely + observed by several, that I have seen them do the very same by their small + Beer Wort; now by these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often + new Commotions raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to + the rarefaction and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these + joining Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered + smoother, or that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from + making their Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small + Liquors generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a + Bottle, and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank. + </p> + <p> + Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up + towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the Hand-bowl + or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a manner, they + put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the Sediments at + Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub near the Cask to + fill it up as it works over, and when it has done working, leave it with a + thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it. + </p> + <p> + But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and + beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in + the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work + heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the + same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs + behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in + the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But + this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have + sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never + revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all + light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human + Body. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors</i>. + </p> + <p> + In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast + some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the + Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold + out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will + so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone + Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put + into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some + time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort, + which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken + that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest + it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some + nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into + it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated + in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper + of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more + Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several + other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury. + Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of + two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it + either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring + it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran + in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and + flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and + breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town + in <i>Bucks</i> that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first, + and then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the + Beer or Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must + own is very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are + to lye nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will + be wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must + consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top + and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial + Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will + better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore + I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great + End. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XIV. <i>Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on</i>. + </h2> + <p> + This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt + Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them, + because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers + drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that + lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops + and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their + long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make + it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the + Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are + sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in + Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill + property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in <i>London</i>) + new thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a + Leather Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar, + which I shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is, + by many put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a + substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about + three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there + Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others + there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't touch + the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and + collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which it + is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put into + Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a + Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating + the inebriating Toast, and therefore the <i>Frenchman</i> says, the <i>English</i> + are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it: + Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the + unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a + corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the + <i>North</i> will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease + and Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body + than whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But + whether it be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle + has emitted its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can + of the acid qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey + upon that again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of + Man, as Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have + seen in the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly + scorn'd what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such + corroding consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised + that such Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at + furthest, and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do + good and not harm. + </p> + <p> + <i>An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a Quart of <i>French</i> Brandy, or as much of <i>English</i>, that + is free from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to + this put as much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in + long pieces into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or + afterwards, and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the + Butt, this will maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness + off for some time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged. + </p> + <h3> + ANOTHER. + </h3> + <p> + Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed + Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon + as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will + both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great + while. + </p> + <h3> + ANOTHER. + </h3> + <p> + Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with + two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of + coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid. + </p> + <p> + <i>To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the + Wort</i>. + </p> + <p> + This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and + Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle, + or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it + boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling + Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second + Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being + incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous + Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is + more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if + such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as + being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear. + </p> + <p> + <i>Another Way</i>. + </p> + <p> + A Woman, who lived at <i>Leighton Buzzard</i> in <i>Bedfordshire</i>, and + had the best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just + done working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was + fine enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little + while a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she + boiled in her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine + accidentally had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper; + so will Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being + great finers and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and + sourness, and are certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put + into a Cask when you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose; + but these are dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great + measure supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor + Body, or to the Hog. + </p> + <p> + <i>To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of + the Hogshead and stop it close. + </p> + <p> + <i>To recover deadish Beer</i>. + </p> + <p> + When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or + five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim + it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will + make it pleasant, quick and strong. + </p> + <p> + <i>To make stale Beer drink new</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take the Herb <i>Horehound</i> stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful + of the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of + Beer, let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it. + </p> + <p> + <i>To fine Malt Liquors</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well + together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom, + and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and + put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass + first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the + Barrel will settle and clear. + </p> + <p> + There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose, + but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls + that Mr. <i>Ellis</i> of <i>Little Gaddesden</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i> + has found out by his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers + and Relishers of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd + Drinks, as I have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a + further Account of some other things that will fine, colour and improve + Malt Drinks: The Balls are sold at {missing text} + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XV. <i>Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to + encrease their Strength</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the + disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and + ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the + precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life, + is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the + Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the + greatest, of the Lord <i>Bacon's</i> Reasons for saying, he thought not + one <i>Englishman</i> in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed + to be much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the + Publicans make it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness + what I am afraid is too true, that some have made use of the <i>Coculus + India</i> Berry for making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt; + but as this is a violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if + taken in too large a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of + its use than an invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly + Nightshade, that it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is + bad enough; for one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its + Berries that grow in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black + Cherry, that the Boy took the wrong for the right. + </p> + <p> + There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill + Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is <i>Coriander</i> + Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of + which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me + by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers + (for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such + Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how + wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way + first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it + is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it. + Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink; + but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a + general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without + doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides + the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake + then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts + for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true + healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of + this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I + hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such + unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort, + but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now + only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for + Reasons that I could here assign. + </p> + <p> + I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick + by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them + wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I + hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear + salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and + Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XVI. <i>Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales</i>. + </h2> + <p> + It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a + Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel, + Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of + forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in + cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where + Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence + will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it + from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather + and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the + Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very + likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep + Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in <i>October</i>, that the + Drink may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in + wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in <i>March</i>, that the Drink + may have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced. + Now such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a + temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have + double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then + carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it + will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places, + that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently + disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept + dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in + Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels + or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more + than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths, + which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all + damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and + sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones; + Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have + lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate + Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and + softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the + Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be + disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in + some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with + Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults + or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding + any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar + that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour, + tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again; + and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in + <i>March</i> and their brown in <i>October</i>, for that the pale Malt, + having not so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need + of the Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard + and dry is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will + help to smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too + violent, Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification + against them; but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be + better. + </p> + <p> + Some are of Opinion, that <i>October</i> is the best of all other Months + to brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months + directly follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that + Brewed in <i>March</i> because such Beer will not want that Care and + Watching, as that brewed in <i>March</i> absolutely requires, by often + taking out and putting in the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is + always left out, then it deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is + not taken in this respect, a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by + making the Drink ferment and burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron + Hoops are most in Fashion at this time, they are certainly the greatest + Security to the safety of the Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the + Chesnut Hoop; both which will endure a shorter or longer time as the + Cellar is more or less dry, and the Management attending them. The Iron + Hoop generally begins to rust first at the Edges, and therefore should be + rubbed off when opportunity offers, and be both kept from wet as much as + possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or + twelve Years, when the Ashen and Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three + times as long. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XVII. <i>Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks</i>. + </h2> + <p> + In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees + clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a + long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as + well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter + Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so + imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a + Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used + with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the + outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the + Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it. + </p> + <p> + But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses, + they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of + the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a + furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will + be apt to fall in pieces. + </p> + <p> + <i>Another Way</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this + pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about. + </p> + <p> + <i>Another Way</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the + end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to + the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten, + but help to fine the Drink. + </p> + <p> + <i>Another</i>. + </p> + <p> + Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus: + Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two + Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip + therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders + of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire, + and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden + Bung, so that no Smoke comes out. + </p> + <p> + <i>For a Musty Cask</i>. + </p> + <p> + Boil some Pepper in water and fill the Cask with it scalding hot. + </p> + <p> + <i>For a very stinking Vessel</i>. + </p> + <p> + The last Remedy is the Coopers taking out one of the Heads of the Cask to + scrape the inside, or new-shave the Staves, and is the surest way of all + others, if it is fired afterwards within-side a small matter, as the + Cooper knows how. + </p> + <p> + These several Methods may be made use of at Discretion, and will be of + great Service where they are wanted. The sooner also a Remedy is applied, + the better; else the Taint commonly encreases, as many have to their + prejudice proved, who have made use of such Casks, in hopes the next Beer + will overcome it; but when once a Cask is infected, it will be a long + while, if ever, before it becomes sweet, if no Art is used. Many therefore + of the careful sort, in case they han't a Convenience to fill their Vessel + as soon as it is empty, will stop it close, to prevent the Air and + preserve the Lees sound, which will greatly tend to the keeping of the + Cask pure and sweet against the next Occasion. + </p> + <p> + <i>To prepare a new Vessel to keep Malt Liquors in</i>. + </p> + <p> + A new Vessel is most improperly used by some ignorant People for strong + Drink after only once or twice scalding with Water, which is so wrong, + that such Beer or Ale will not fail of tasting thereof for half, if not a + whole Year afterwards; such is the Tang of the Oak and its Bark, as may be + observed from the strong Scents of Tan-Yards, which the Bark is one cause + of. To prevent then this Inconvenience, when your Brewing is over put up + some Water scalding hot, and let it run throu' the Grains, then boil it + and fill up the Cask, stop it well and let it stand till it is cold, do + this twice, then take the Grounds of strong Drink and boil in it green + Wallnut Leaves and new Hay or Wheat Straw, and put all into the Cask, that + it be full and stop it close. After this, use it for small Beer half a + Year together, and then it will be thoroughly sweet and fit for strong + Drinks; or + </p> + <p> + <i>Another Way</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take a new Cask and dig a Hole in the Ground, in which it may lye half + depth with the Bung downwards; let it remain a Week, and it will greatly + help this or any stinking musty Cask. But besides these, I have writ of + two other excellent Ways to sweeten musty or stinking Casks, in my Second + Book of Brewing. + </p> + <p> + <i>Wine Casks</i>. + </p> + <p> + These, in my Opinion, are the cheapest of all others to furnish a Person + readily with, as being many of them good Casks for Malt Liquors, because + the Sack and White-Wine sorts are already season'd to Hand, and will + greatly improve Beers and Ales that are put in them: But beware of the + Rhenish Wine Cask for strong Drinks; for its Wood is so tinctured with + this sharp Wine, that it will hardly ever be free of it, and therefore + such Cask is best used for Small Beer: The Claret Cask will a great deal + sooner be brought into a serviceable State for holding strong Drink, if it + is two or three times scalded with Grounds of Barrels, and afterwards used + for small Beer for some time. I have bought a Butt or Pipe for eight + Shillings in <i>London</i> with some Iron Hoops on it, a good Hogshead for + the same, and the half Hogshead for five Shillings, the Carriage for a + Butt by the Waggon thirty Miles is two Shillings and Sixpence, and the + Hogshead Eighteen-pence: But, to cure a Claret Cask of its Colour and + Taste, put a Peck of Stone-Lime into a Hogshead, and pour upon it three + Pails of Water; bung immediately with a Wood-or Cork Bung, and shake it + well about a quarter of an Hour, and let it stand a Day and Night and it + will bring off the red Colour, and alter the Taste of the Cask very much. + But of three several other excellent Methods for curing musty, stinking, + new and other tainted Casks, I have writ of in my Account of Casks in my + Second Book. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XVIII. <i>Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of Malt Liquors to some + distance</i>. + </h2> + <p> + I am sure this is of no small Consequence, however it may be esteemed as a + light matter by some; for if this is not duly perform'd, all our Charge, + Labour and Care will be lost; and therefore here I shall dissent from my + <i>London</i> Fashion, where I bung'd up my Ale with Pots of Clay only, or + with Clay mix'd with Bay Salt, which is the better of the two, because + this Salt will keep the Clay moist longer than in its Original State; and + the Butt Beers and fine Ales were Bung'd with Cork drove in with a piece + of Hop-Sack or Rag, which I think are all insipid, and the occasion of + spoiling great Quantities of Drink, especially the small Beers; for when + the Clay is dry, which is soon in Summer, there cannot be a regular Vent + thro' it, and then the Drink from that time flattens and stales to the + great loss in a Year to some Owners, and the Benefit of the Brewer; for + then a fresh Cask must be Tapp'd to supply it, and the remaining part of + the other throw'd away. Now, to prevent this great Inconvenience, my + Bung-holes are not quite of the largest size of all, and yet big enough + for the common wooden Iron Hoop'd Funnel used in some Brew-houses: In this + I put in a turned piece of Ash or Sallow three Inches broad at Top, and + two Inches and a half long, first putting in a double piece of dry brown + Paper, that is so broad that an Inch or more may be out of it, after the + wooden Bung is drove down with a Hammer pretty tight; this Paper must be + furl'd or twisted round the Bung, and another loose piece upon and around + that, with a little Yeast, and a small Peg put into the Bung, which is to + be raised at Discretion when the Beer is drawing, or at other times to + give it Vent if there should be occasion: Others will put some Coal or + Wood Ashes wetted round this Bung, which will bind very hard, and prevent + any Air getting into or out of the Cask; but this in time is apt to rot, + and wear the Bung-hole by the Salt or Sulphur in the Ashes, and employing + a Knife to scrape it afterwards. Yet, for keeping Beers, it's the best + Security of all other ways whatsoever. + </p> + <p> + There is also a late Invention practised by a common Brewer in the Country + that I am acquainted with, for the safe Carriage of Drink on Drays, to + some distance without losing any of it, and that is in the Top Center of + one of these Bungs, he puts in a wooden Funnel, whose Spout is about four + Inches long, and less than half an Inch Diameter at Bottom; this is turned + at Top into a concave Fashion like a hollow round Bowl, that will hold + about a Pint, which is a constant Vent to the Cask, and yet hinders the + Liquor from ascending no faster than the Bowl can receive, and return it + again into the Barrel: I may say further, he has brought a Barrel two + Miles, and it was then full, when it arrived at his Customers, because the + Pint that was put into the Funnel, at setting out, was not at all lost + when he took it off the Dray; this may be also made of Tin; and will serve + from the Butt to the small Cask. + </p> + <p> + In the Butt there is a Cork-hole made about two Inches below the upper + Head, and close under that a piece of Leather is nailed Spout-fashion, + that jetts three Inches out, from which the Yeast works and falls into a + Tub, and when the working is over the Cork is put closely in, for the Bung + in the Head of the upright Cask is put in as soon as it is filled up with + new Drink: Now when such a Cask is to be broach'd and a quick Draught is + to follow, then it may be tapp'd at Bottom; but if otherwise, the Brass + Cock ought to be first put in at the middle, and before the Drink sinks to + that it should be Tapp'd at Bottom to prevent the breaking of the Head of + Yeast, and its growing stale, flat and sour. + </p> + <p> + In some Places in the Country when they brew Ale or Beer to send to <i>London</i> + at a great Distance, they let it be a Year old before they Tap it, so that + then it is perfectly fine; this they put into small Casks that have a + Bung-hole only fit for a large Cork, and then they immediately put in a + Role of Bean-flour first kneaded with Water or Drink, and baked in an + Oven, which is all secured by pitching in the Cork, and so sent in the + Waggon; the Bean-flour feeding and preserving the Body of the Drink all + the way, without fretting or causing it to burst the Cask for want of + Vent, and when Tapp'd will also make the Drink very brisk, because the + Flour is in such a hard Consistence, that it won't dissolve in that time; + but if a little does mix with the Ale or Beer, its heavy Parts will sooner + fine than thicken the Drink and keep it mellow and lively to the last, if + Air is kept out of the Barrel. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XIX. <i>Of the Strength and Age of Malt Liquors</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Whether they be Ales or strong Beers, it is certain that the midling sort + is allowed by Physicians to be the most agreeable of any, especially to + those of a sedentary Life, or those that are not occupied in such Business + as promotes Perspiration enough to throw out and break the Viscidities of + the stronger sorts; on which account the laborious Man has the advantage, + whose Diet being poor and Body robust, the strength of such Liquors gives + a Supply and better digests into Nourishment: But for the unactive Man a + Hogshead of Ale which is made from six Bushels of Malt is sufficient for a + Diluter of their Food, and will better assist their Constitution than the + more strong sort, that would in such produce Obstructions and ill Humours; + and therefore that Quantity for Ale, and ten Bushels for a Hogshead of + strong Beer that should not be Tapp'd under nine Months, is the most + healthful. And this I have experienc'd by enjoying such an Amber Liquor + that has been truly brewed from good Malt, as to be of a Vinous Nature, + that would permit of a hearty Dose over Night, and yet the next Morning + leave a Person light, brisk and unconcern'd. This then is the true Nostrum + of Brewing, and ought to be studied and endeavoured for by all those that + can afford to follow the foregoing Rules, and then it will supply in a + great measure those chargeable (and often adulterated tartarous + arthritick) Wines. So likewise for small Beer, especially in a Farmer's + Family where it is not of a Body enough, the Drinkers will be feeble in + hot Weather and not be able to perform their Work, and will also bring on + Distempers, besides the loss of time, and a great waste of such Beer that + is generally much thrown away; because Drink is certainly a Nourisher of + the Body, as well as Meats, and the more substantial they both are, the + better will the Labourer go through his Work, especially at Harvest; and + in large Families the Doctor's Bills have proved the Evil of this bad + Oeconomy, and far surmounted the Charge of that Malt that would have kept + the Servants in good Health, and preserved the Beer from such Waste as the + smaller sort is liable to. + </p> + <p> + 'Tis therefore that some prudent Farmers will brew their Ale and small + Beer in <i>March</i>, by allowing of five or six Bushels of Malt, and two + Pounds of Hops to the Hogshead of Ale, and a quarter of Malt and three + Pounds of Hops to five Barrels of small Beer. Others there are, that will + brew their Ale or strong Beer in <i>October</i>, and their small Beer a + Month before it is wanted. Others will brew their Ale and small Beer in <i>April, + May</i> and <i>June</i>; but this according to humour, and therefore I + have hinted of the several Seasons for Brewing these Liquors: However in + my Opinion, whether it be strong or small Drinks, they should be clear, + smooth and not too small, if they are design'd for Profit and Health; for + if they are otherwise, it will be a sad Evil to Harvest Men, because then + they stand most in need of the greatest Balsamicks: To this end some of + the softning Ingredients mentioned in the foregoing Receipts should be + made use of to feed it accordingly, if these Drinks are brewed forward. + And that this particular important Article in the Brewing Oeconomy may be + better understood, I shall here recite Dr. <i>Quincy</i>'s Opinion of Malt + Liquors, viz. The Age of Malt Drinks makes them more or less wholsome, and + seems to do somewhat the same as Hops; for those Liquors which are longest + kept, are certainly the least viscid; Age by degrees breaking the viscid + Parts, and rendering them smaller, makes them finer for Secretion; but + this is always to be determined by their Strength, because in Proportion + to that will they sooner or later come to their full Perfection and + likewise their Decay, until the finer Spirits quite make their Escape, and + the remainder becomes vapid and sour. By what therefore has been already + said, it will appear that the older Drinks are the more healthful, so they + be kept up to this Standard, but not beyond it. Some therefore are of + Opinion, that strong Beer brewed in <i>October</i> should be Tapp'd at <i>Midsummer</i>, + and that brewed in <i>March</i> at <i>Christmas</i>, as being most + agreeable to the Seasons of the Year that follow such Brewings: For then + they will both have part of a Summer and Winter to ripen and digest their + several Bodies; and 'tis my humble Opinion, that where the Strength of the + Beer, the Quantity of Hops, the boiling Fermentation and the Cask are all + rightly managed, there Drink may be most excellent, and better at nine + Months Age, than at nine Years, for Health and Pleasure of Body. But to be + truly certain of the right Time, there should be first an Examination made + by Pegging the Vessel to prove if such Drink is fine, the Hop sufficiently + rotted, and it be mellow and well tasted. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XX. <i>Of the Pleasure and Profit of Private Brewing, and the Charge + of buying Malt Liquors</i>. + </h2> + <p> + Here I am to treat of the main Article of shewing the difference between + brewing our own Ales and Beers, and buying them, which I doubt not will + appear so plain and evident, as to convince any Reader, that many Persons + may save well towards half in half, and have their Beer and Ale strong, + fine and aged at their own Discretion: A satisfaction that is of no small + weight, and the rather since I have now made known a Method of Brewing a + Quantity of Malt with a little Copper and a few Tubs, a Secret that has + long wanted Publication; for now a Person may Brew in a little Room, and + that very safely by keeping his Wort from Foxing, as I have already + explained, which by many has been thought impossible heretofore; and this + Direction is the more Valuable as there are many Thousands who live in + Cities and Towns, that have no more than a few Yards Square of Room to + perform a private Brewing in. And as for the trouble, it is easy to + account for by those who have time enough on their Hands, and would do + nothing else if they had not done this: Or if a Man is paid half a Crown a + Day for a Quantity accordingly: Or if a Servant can do this besides his + other Work for the same Wages and Charge, I believe the following account + will make it appear it is over-ballanc'd considerably, by what such a + Person may save in this undertaking, besides the Pleasure of thoroughly + knowing the several Ingredients and Cleanliness of the Brewer and + Utensils. In several of the Northern Counties of <i>England</i>, where + they have good Barley, Coak-dryed Malt, and the Drink brewed at Home, + there are seldom any bad Ales or Beers, because they have the Knowledge in + Brewing so well, that there are hardly any common Brewers amongst them: In + the West indeed there are some few, but in the South and East Parts there + are many; and now follows the Account, that I have Stated according to my + own general Practice, viz. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +<i>A Calculation of the Charge and Profit of Brewing six Bushels of Malt for +a private Family</i>. + + £. s. d. + Six Bushels of Malt at 2s. 8d. + <i>per</i> Bushel, Barley being this ) + Year 1733. sold for 14s. <i>per</i> ) 0 16 0 + Quarter by the Farmer ) + + Hops one Pound 0 1 6 + + Yeast a Quart 0 0 4 + + Coals one Bushel, or if Wood or Furze 0 1 0 + + A Man's Wages a Day 0 2 6 + —————— + Total 1 1 4 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +<i>Of these six Bushels of Malt I make one Hogshead of Ale and another of +Small Beer: But if I was to buy them of some common Brewers, the Charge +will be as follows</i>, viz. + + £ s. d. + + One Hogshead of Ale containing 48 ) + Gallons, at 6 <i>d. per</i> Gallon is ) 1 4 0 + + One Hogshead of Small Beer ) + containing 54 Gallons, at 2 <i>d</i>. ) + 0 9 0 <i>per</i> Gallon is ) 0 9 0 + ___.____.____ + + 1 13 0 + ___.____.____ + + Total Saved 0 11 8 +</pre> + <p> + By the above Account it plainly appears, that 11 s. and 8 d. is clearly + gained in Brewing of six Bushels of Malt at our own House for a private + Family, and yet I make the Charge fuller by 2 s. and 6 d. then it will + happen with many, whose Conveniency by Servants, &c. may intirely take + it off; besides the six Bushels of Grains that are currently sold for + Three-pence the Bushel, which will make the Eleven and Eight-pence more by + four Shillings, without reckoning any thing for yeast, that in the very + cheapest time sells here for Four-pence the Quart, and many times there + happens three Quarts from so much Drink; so that there may possibly be + gained in all sixteen Shillings and Eight-pence: A fine Sum indeed in so + small a Quantity of Malt. But here by course will arise a Question, + whether this Ale is as good as that bought of some of the common Brewers + at Six-pence a Gallon; I can't say all is; however I can aver this, that + the Ale I brew in the Country from six Bushels of Malt for my Family, I + think is generally full as good, if not better than any I ever sold at + that Price in my <i>London</i> Brewhouse: And if I should say, that where + the Malt, Water and Hops are right good, and the Brewer's Skill answerable + to them, there might be a Hogshead of as good Ale and another of small + Beer made from five Bushels as I desire to use for my Family, or for + Harvest Men; It is no more than I have many times experienced, and 'tis + the common length I made for that Purpose. And whoever makes use of true + Pale and Amber Malts, and pursues the Directions of this Book, I doubt not + but will have their Expectation fully answered in this last Quantity, and + so save the great Expence of Excise that the common Brewers Drink is + always clogg'd with, which is {blotted text} than five Shillings for Ale + and Eighteen-pence <i>per</i> Barrel for Small Beer. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAP. XXI. <i>A Philosophical Account for Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer. + By an Ingenious Hand</i>. + </h2> + <p> + In Brewing, your Malt ought to be sound and good, and after its making to + lye two or more Months in the Heap, to come to such a temper, that the + Kernel may readily melt in the washing. + </p> + <p> + The well dressing your Malt, ought to be one chief Care; for unless it be + freed from the Tails and Dust, your Drink will not be fine and mellow as + when it is clean dressed. + </p> + <p> + The grinding also must be considered according to the high or low drying + of the Malt; for if high dryed, then a gross grinding is best, otherwise a + smaller may be done; for the Care in grinding consists herein, lest too + much of the Husk being ground small should mix with the Liquor, which + makes a gross Feces, and consequently your Drink will have too fierce a + Fermentation, and by that means make it Acid, or that we call Stale. + </p> + <p> + When your Malt is ground, let it stand in Sacks twenty-four Hours at + least, to the end that the Heat in grinding may be allayed, and 'tis + conceived by its so standing that the Kernel will dissolve the better. + </p> + <p> + The measure and quantity we allow of Hops and Malt, is five Quarter of + Malt to three Hogsheads of Beer, and eighteen Pounds of Hops at least to + that Quantity of Malt, and if Malt be pale dryed, then add three or four + Pounds of Hops more. + </p> + <p> + The Choice of Liquor for Brewing is of considerable advantage in making + good Drink, the softest and cleanest water is to be prererr'd, your harsh + water is not to be made use of. + </p> + <p> + You are to boil your first Liquor, adding a Handful or two of Hops to it, + then before you strike it over to your Goods or Malt, cool in as much + Liquor, as will bring it to a temper not to scald the Malt, for it is a + fault not to take the Liquor as high as possible but not to scald. The + next Liquors do the same. + </p> + <p> + And indeed all your Liquors ought to be taken as high as may be, that is + not to scald. + </p> + <p> + When you let your Wort from your Malt into the Underback, put to it a + Handful or two of Hops, 'twill preserve it from that accident which + Brewers call Blinking or Foxing. + </p> + <p> + In boiling your Worts, the first Wort boil high or quick; for the quicker + the first Wort is boiled, the better it is. + </p> + <p> + The second boil more than the first, and the third or last more than the + second. + </p> + <p> + In cooling lay your Worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and Care must + be taken in letting them down into the Tun, that you do it leisurely, to + the end that as little of the Feces or Sediment which causes the + Fermentation to be fierce or mild, for Note, there is in all fermented + Liquors, Salt and Sulphur, and to keep these two Bodies in a due + Proportion, that the Salt does not exalt itself above the Sulphur, + consists a great part of the Art in Brewing. + </p> + <p> + When your Wort is first let into your Tun, put but a little Yeast to it, + and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate, + whip in the Yeast two or three times or more, till you find your Drink + well fermented, for without a full opening of the Body by fermentation, it + will not be perfect fine, nor will it drink clean and light. + </p> + <p> + When you cleanse, do it by a Cock from your Tun, placed six Inches from + the Bottom, to the end that most of the Sediment may be left behind, which + may be thrown on your Malt to mend your Small Beer. + </p> + <p> + When your Drink is Tunn'd, fill your Vessel full, let it work at the + Bung-hole, and have a reserve in a small Cask to fill it up, and don't put + any of the Drink which will be under the Yeast after it is work'd over + into your Vessels, but put it by itself in another Cask, for it will not + be so good as your other in the Cask. + </p> + <p> + This done, you must wait for the finishing of the fermentation, then stop + it close, and let it stand till the Spring, for Brewing ought to be done + in the Month of <i>October</i>, that it may have time to settle and digest + all the Winter Season. + </p> + <p> + In the Spring you must unstop your Vent-hole and thereby see whether your + Drink doth ferment or not, for as soon as the warm Weather comes, your + Drink will have another fermentation, which when it is over, let it be + again well stopped and stand till <i>September</i> or longer, and then Peg + it; and if you find it pretty fine, the Hop well rotted and of a good + pleasant taste for drinking. + </p> + <p> + Then and not before draw out a Gallon of it, put to it two Ounces of + Ising-glass cut small and well beaten to melt, stirring it often and whip + it with a Wisk till the Ising-glass be melted, then strain it and put it + into your Vessel, stirring it well together, stop the Bung slightly, for + this will cause a new and small fermentation, when that is over stop it + close, leaving only a Vent-hole a little stopp'd, let it stand, and in ten + Days or a little more, it will be transparently fine, and you may drink of + it out of the Vessel till two parts in three be drawn, then Bottle the + rest, which will in a little time come to drink very well. If your Drink + in <i>September</i> be well condition'd for taste, but not fine, and you + desire to drink it presently, rack it before you put your Ising-glass to + it, and then it will fine the better and drink the cleaner. + </p> + <p> + To make Drink fine quickly, I have been told that by separating the Liquor + from the Feces, when the Wort is let out of the Tun into the Underback, + which may be done in this manner, when you let your Wort into your + Underback out of your Tun, catch the Wort in some Tub so long, and so + often as you find it run foul, put that so catched on the Malt again, and + do so till the Wort run clear into the Underback. This is to me a very + good way (where it may be done) for 'tis the Feces which causes the fierce + and violent fermentation, and to hinder that in some measure is the way to + have fine Drink: Note that the finer you make your Wort, the sooner your + Drink will be fine, for I have heard that some Curious in Brewing have + caused Flannels to be so placed, that all the Wort may run thro' one or + more of them into the Tun before working, by which means the Drink was + made very fine and well tasted. + </p> + <p> + <i>Observations on the foregoing Account</i>. + </p> + <p> + This Excellent Philosophical Account of Brewing <i>October</i> Beer, has + hitherto remained in private Hands as a very great Secret, and was given + to a Friend of mine by the Author himself, to whom the World is much + obliged, altho' it comes by me; In justice therefore to this ingenious + Person, I would here mention his Name, had I leave for so doing; but at + present this Intimation must suffice. However, I shall here take notice, + that his Caution against using tailed or dusty Malt, which is too commonly + sold, is truly worthy of Observation; for these are so far from producing + more Ale or Beer, that they absorb and drink part of it up. + </p> + <p> + In Grinding Malts he notifies well to prevent a foul Drink. + </p> + <p> + The quantity he allows is something above thirteen Bushels to the Hogshead + which is very sufficient; but this as every body pleases. + </p> + <p> + The Choice of Liquors or Waters for Brewing, he says, is of considerable + advantage; and so must every body else that knows their Natures and loves + Health, and pleasant Drink: For this purpose, in my Opinion, the Air and + Soil is to be regarded where the Brewing is performed; since the Air + affects all things it can come at, whether Animal, Vegetable or Mineral, + as may be proved from many Instances: In the Marshes of <i>Kent</i> and <i>Essex</i>, + the Air there is generally so infectious by means of those low vaesy boggy + Grounds, that seldom a Person escapes an Ague one time or other, whether + Natives or Aliens, and is often fatally known to some of the <i>Londoners</i> + and others who merrily and nimbly travel down to the Isles of <i>Grain</i> + and <i>Sheppy</i> for a valuable Harvest, but in a Month's time they + generally return thro' the Village of <i>Soorne</i> with another Mien. + There is also a little <i>Moor</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>, thro' which a + Water runs that frequently gives the <i>Passant</i> Horses that drink of + it, the Colick or Gripes, by means of the aluminous sharp Particles of its + Earth; Its Air is also so bad, as has obliged several to remove from its + Situation for their Healths: The Dominion of the Air is likewise so + powerful over Vegetables, that what will grow in one Place won't in + another, as is plain from the Beech and Black Cherry Tree, that refuse the + Vale of <i>Ailesbury</i> tho' on some Hills there, yet will thrive in the + <i>Chiltern</i> or Hilly Country: So the Limes and other Trees about <i>London</i> + are all generally black-barked, while those in the Country are most of + them of a Silver white. Water is also so far under the Influence of the + Air and Soil, as makes many excellent for Brewing when others are as bad. + In Rivers, that run thro' boggy Places, the Sullage or Washings of such + Soils are generally unwholsome as the nature of such Ground is; and so the + Water becomes infected by that and the Effluvia or Vapour that accompanies + such Water: So Ponds are surely good or bad, as they are under too much + Cover or supply'd by nasty Drains, or as they stand situated or exposed to + good and bad Airs. Thus the Well-waters by consequence share in the good + or bad Effects of such Soils that they run thorough, and the very Surface + of the Earth by which such Waters are strained, is surely endowed with the + quality of the Air in which it lies; which brings me to my intended + purpose, to prove that Water drawn out of a Chalky, or Fire-stone Well, + which is situated under a dry sweet loamy Soil, in a fine pure Air, and + that is perfectly soft, must excel most if not all other Well-waters for + the purpose in Brewing. The Worts also that are rooted in such an Air, in + course partakes of its nitrous Benefits, as being much exposed thereto in + the high Backs or Coolers that contain them. In my own Grounds I have + Chalks under Clays and Loams; but as the latter is better than the former, + so the Water proves more soft and wholsome under one than the other. Hence + then may be observed the contrary Quality of those harsh curdling + Well-waters that many drink of in their Malt Liquors, without considering + their ill Effects, which are justly condemn'd by this able Author as unfit + to be made use of in Brewing <i>October</i> Beer. + </p> + <p> + The boiling a few Hops in the first Water is good, but they must be + strained thro' a Sieve before the Water is put into the Malt; and to check + its Heat with cold Liquor, or to let it stand to cool some time, is a + right Method, lest it scalds and locks up the Pores of the Malt, which + would then yield a thick Wort to the end of the Brewing and never be good + Drink. + </p> + <p> + His putting Hops into the Underback, is an excellent Contrivance to + prevent foxing, as I have already hinted. + </p> + <p> + The quick boiling of the Wort is of no less Service, and that the smaller + Wort should be boiled longer than the strong is good Judgment, because the + stronger the Wort, the sooner the Spirits flie away and the waste of more + Consequence; besides if the first Wort was to be boiled too long, it would + obtain so thick a Body, as to prevent in great measure its fining + hereafter after so soon in the Barrel; while the smaller sort will + evaporate its more watry Parts, and thereby be brought into a thicker + Confidence, which is perfectly necessary in thin Worts; and in this + Article lies so much the Skill of the Brewer, that some will make a longer + Length than ordinary from the Goods for Small Beer, to shorten it + afterwards in the Copper by Length of boiling, and this way of consuming + it is the more natural, because the remaining part will be better Cured. + </p> + <p> + The laying Worts thin is a most necessary Precaution; for this is one way + to prevent their running into Cohesions and Foxing, the want of which + Knowledge and Care has undoubtedly been the occasion of great Losses in + Brewing; for when Worts are tainted in any considerable degree, they will + be ropy in time and unfit for the human Body, as being unwholsome as well + as unpleasant. So likewise is his <i>Item</i> of great Importance, when he + advises to draw the Worts off fine out of the Backs or Coolers, and leave + the Feces or Sediments behind, by reason, as he says, they are the cause + of those two detested Qualities in Malt Liquors, staleness and foulness, + two Properties that ought to imploy the greatest Care in Brewers to + prevent; for 'tis certain these Sediments are a Composition of the very + worst part of the Malt, Hops and Yeast, and, while they are in the Barrel, + will so tincture and impregnate the Drink with their insanous and + unpleasant nature, that its Drinkers will be sure to participate thereof + more or less as they have lain together a longer or a shorter time. To + have then a Malt Drink balsamick and mild, the Worts cannot be run off too + fine from the Coolers, nor well fermented too slow, that there may be a + Medium kept, in both the Salt and Sulphur that all fermented Malt Drinks + abound with, and herein, as he says, lies a great part of the Art of + Brewing. + </p> + <p> + He says truly well, that a little Yeast at first should be put to the + Wort, that it may quietly work by degrees, and not be violently forc'd + into a high Fermentation; for then by course the Salt and Sulphur will be + too violently agitated into such an Excess and Disagreement of Parts, that + will break their Unity into irregular Commotions, and cause the Drink to + be soon stale and harsh. But if it should be too backward and work too + moderate, then whipping the Yeast two or three times into it will be of + some service to open the Body of the Beer, for as he observes, if Drink + has not a due fermentation, it will not be fine, clean, nor light. + </p> + <p> + His advice to draw the Drink out of the Tun by a Cock at such a distance + from the bottom is right; because that room will best keep the Feces from + being disturb'd as the Drink is drawing off, and leaving them behind; but + for putting them afterwards over the Malt for Small Beer, I don't hold it + consonant with good Brewing, by reason in this Sediment there are many + Particles of the Yeast, that consequently will cause a small Fermentation + in the Liquor and Malt, and be a means to spoil rather than make good + Small Beer. + </p> + <p> + What he says of filling up the Cask with a reserve of the same Drink, and + not with that which has once worked out, is past dispute just and right. + </p> + <p> + And so is what he says of stopping up the Vessel close after the + Fermentation is over; but that it is best to Brew all strong Beer in <i>October</i>, + I must here take leave to dissent from the Tenet, because there is room + for several Objections in relation to the sort of Malt and Cellar, which + as I have before explained, shall say the less here. + </p> + <p> + As he observes Care should be taken in the Spring to unstop the Vent, lest + the warm Weather cause such a Fermentation as may burst the Cask, and also + in <i>September</i>, that it be first try'd by Pegging if the Drink is + fine, well tasted and the Hop rotted; and then if his Way is liked best, + bring the rest into a transparent Fineness; for Clearness in Malt Liquors, + as I said before, and here repeat it again, is a most agreeable Quality + that every Man ought to enjoy for his Health and Pleasure, and therefore + he advises for dispatch in this Affair, and to have the Drink very fine, + to rack it off before the Ising-glass is put in; but I can't be a Votary + for this Practice, as believing the Drink must lose a great deal of its + Spirits by such shifting; yet I must chime in with his Notion of putting + the Wort so often over the Malt till it comes off fine as I have already + taught, which is a Method that has been used many Years in the North of <i>England</i>, + where they are so curious as to let the Wort lie some time in the + Underback to draw it off from the Feces there; nor are they less careful + to run it fine out of the Cooler into the Tun, and from that into the + Cask; in all which three several Places the Wort and Drink may be had + clear and fine, and then there will be no more Sediments than is just + necessary to assist and seed the Beer, and preserving its Spirits in a due + Temper. But if Persons have Time and Conveniency, and their Inclination + leads them to, obtain their Drink in the utmost Fineness, it is an + extraordinary good way to use <i>Hippocrates</i> Sleeve or Flannel Bag, + which I did in my great Brew-house at <i>London</i> for straining off the + Feces that were left in the Backs. As to the Quantity of Malt for Brewing + a Hogshead of <i>October</i> Beer, I am of Opinion thirteen Bushels are + right, and so are ten, fifteen and twenty, according as People approve of; + for near <i>Litchfield</i>, I know some have brewed a Hogshead of <i>October</i> + Beer from sixteen Bushels of Barley Malt, one of Wheat, one of Beans, one + of Pease and one of Oat Malt, besides hanging a Bag of Flower taken out of + the last four Malts in the Hogshead for the Drink to feed on, nor can a + certain Time Be limited and adjusted for the Tapping of any Drink + (notwithstanding what has been affirmed to the contrary) because some Hops + will not be rotted so soon as others, and some Drinks will not fine so + soon as others; as is evident in the Pale Malt Drinks, that will seldom or + never break so soon in the Copper as the Brown sort, nor will they be so + soon ripe and fit to Tap as the high dryed Malt Drink will. Therefore what + this Gentleman says of trying Drink by first Pegging it before it is + Tapp'd, in my Opinion is more just and right than relying on a limited + time for Broaching such Beer. + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER *** + +***** This file should be named 8900-h.htm or 8900-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/8/9/0/8900/ + + +Text file produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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