diff options
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8814-8.txt | 9284 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8814-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 184701 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
5 files changed, 9300 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/8814-8.txt b/8814-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..03c57ac --- /dev/null +++ b/8814-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9284 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Journal Of A Mission To The Interior Of Africa, In The Year 1805 +by Mungo Park + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The Journal Of A Mission To The Interior Of Africa, In The Year 1805 + +Author: Mungo Park + +Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8814] +[This file was first posted on August 15, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE JOURNAL OF A MISSION TO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, IN THE YEAR 1805 *** + + + + +E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders + + + +THE JOURNAL OF A MISSION TO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, + +IN THE YEAR 1805 + +Together with Other Documents, Official And Private, + +Relating To The Same Mission, to Which Is Prefixed + +an Account of the Life off Mr. Park. + +BY + +MUNGO PARK + + + +Edited and Commentary by John Whishaw + + + + + + +The original documents relating to Mr. Mungo Park's last mission into +Africa having been entrusted to the Directors of the African Institution +by the Secretary of State for the Colonial Department, with liberty to +publish them, in case they should deem it expedient; the Directors now +avail themselves of this permission, by publishing the papers for the +benefit of Mr. Park's family. + +These documents, together with other papers furnished by Mr. Park's +connections and friends, which also form a part of the present +publication, consist of the following particulars: + +1. The original Journal of the expedition, officially transmitted by Mr. +Park to the Secretary of State; containing several of Mr. Park's +drawings and sketches, illustrative of particular descriptions, which +are copied in this publication. + +2. The Journal, as translated from the Arabic language, in which it was +originally composed, of Isaaco, a native African, commissioned in the +year 1810, by the Governor of Senegal, to go in search of Mr. Park and +ascertain his fate; which Journal was likewise officially transmitted to +the Secretary of State. + +3. A Memoir delivered by Mr. Park at the Colonial Office in the year +1804, relative to the plan and objects of the intended expedition into +Africa; together with the Official Instructions which he received for +his guidance; and two letters addressed by him to the Secretary of +State, one, written shortly after his arrival at the Coast of Africa, +and the other, at the time of transmitting his Journal, previously to +his final embarkation on the Niger. + +4. Several private letters of Mr. Park, principally written during the +time he was engaged in this mission; which, together with the documents +included under the last mentioned head, have been incorporated into the +Account of Mr. Park's Life, which is prefixed to the Journal. + +It has before been stated, that the official papers are published under +the authority of the Directors of the African Institution. It may be +proper to add, that the individual, who has undertaken to prepare this +work for the press, is alone responsible for the publication of the +private letters, and for whatever else is contained in this volume, +besides the official documents. + +Of the papers before enumerated, the most important, and the only one +which calls for any particular observation, is Mr. Park's own Journal; +respecting which, it may be necessary to apprize the reader that it was +written without the slightest view to publication, being intended only +(as he informed the Secretary of State, by his letter of the 17th of +November, 1805) "to recall to his own recollection _other_ particulars +illustrative of the manners and customs of the natives, which would have +swelled the communication to a most unreasonable size." The work, +therefore, which is now submitted to the public, can be considered in no +other light than as the mere outline of a much more extended and +detailed narrative, which it was the author's intention to prepare for +the press after his return to England. + +A work, thus imperfect, and which the unfortunate fate of its author has +prevented from being brought to a completion, is entitled to peculiar +indulgence; and if those allowances are made, which candour and justice +require, the editor confidently hopes, that Mr. Park's Journal will not +disappoint the public expectation. It will be found to contain several +interesting particulars concerning Africa, not hitherto known, and to +illustrate and confirm, in various material respects, some of the most +important discoveries communicated in Mr. Park's former Travels. It +bears strong internal marks of truth and fidelity; and, perhaps, the +very nakedness and simplicity of its descriptions and its minute details +of petty circumstances, may be thought by some readers to convey a more +accurate and distinct conception of the process of an African journey, +and of the difficulties with which such expeditions are attended, than a +more elaborate and polished narrative. + +With a view of rendering the present publication more complete, and of +gratifying in a certain degree that reasonable curiosity, which will +naturally be felt by many readers of this Journal and the former +Travels, it has been thought advisable to add a biographical Memoir of +the Author. But as the events of Mr. Park's life, with the exception of +those contained in the works just alluded to, are few and unimportant, +the editor has been induced, in the course of this undertaking, to +deviate occasionally into other topics, more or less connected with the +principal subject; in the discussion of which he has inadvertently +exceeded the limits which he had originally assigned to himself. This +circumstance has added considerably to the length of the Memoir and its +Appendix; for which, he would willingly believe, that the interest +belonging to the topics themselves, will be deemed a sufficient apology. + +In preparing this Memoir, the editor naturally applied for information +to Mr. Park's family, and was much gratified by discovering, that some +materials, with a view to a similar undertaking, had been collected by a +brother-in-law of Mr. Park, Mr. Archibald Buchanan of Glasgow; who, on +being made acquainted with the editor's intention, immediately and with +the greatest candour, transmitted to him the whole of his papers. + +These materials have been of great use in preparing the Memoir; in which +the editor has likewise been assisted by much useful information which +he has received from another brother-in-law of Mr. Park, Mr. James +Dickson, whose name will occur in the course of the ensuing Memoir; and +also from Mr. Park's two brothers, Mr. Adam Park of Gravesend, and Mr. +Alexander Park of Selkirk, the latter of whom is unfortunately since +dead. + +The editor is likewise greatly indebted to Major Rennell and to Zachary +Macaulay, Esq. for several interesting particulars concerning Mr. Park; +and to the latter in particular, for much valuable information relative +to the trade of this country with Africa, which will be found in the +Appendix to the Memoir. + +But his acknowledgments are due, in an especial manner, to Sir Joseph +Banks; who has not only favoured the editor with the fullest +communication of his correspondence with Mr. Park, and of his papers +relating to this subject, but has in every other respect assisted and +promoted the present undertaking with a kindness and liberality, +proportioned to his sincere and constant friendship for Mr. Park, and to +his uniform zeal for whatever he considers to be in any degree connected +with useful knowledge and scientific discovery. + + * * * * * + +It remains only to say a few words respecting the Map, which is prefixed +to this publication. The readers of Mr. Park's former Travels are +already apprized, that the map which accompanied that work, was +constructed by Major Rennell, whose interesting Geographical Memoir in +illustration of Mr. Park's first journey, was also annexed to the quarto +edition. It would have been highly gratifying to the editor of this +work, and most satisfactory to the public, if the same valuable +assistance could have been obtained on the present occasion. But +unfortunately, Major Rennell's other engagements rendered this wholly +impracticable. He had the kindness, however, to furnish the editor with +some notes which he had taken, and with a construction of part of Mr. +Park's route in 1805, which he had traced out from the Journal now +published, when it was formerly submitted to his inspection. + +These papers together with Mr. Park's Journal, were placed in the hands +of a respectable artist, employed by the publisher to construct the map +intended to illustrate the present work; at whose request the following +statement respecting certain difficulties which have occurred in its +construction, is subjoined. + +"In compiling the map of Mr. Park's route in 1805, much difficulty has +arisen from the bearings of places not being mentioned in the Journal; +and also in consequence of there being occasionally great differences +between the latitudes and longitudes of places according to the +astronomical observations, and the distances computed according to the +journies. Considerable pains have been taken to reconcile these +differences; but the general result has been, that it was found +necessary in adhering to the astronomical observations, to carry Mr. +Park's former route in 1796 farther north, and to place it in a higher +latitude than that in which it appears in Major Rennell's map annexed to +the former volume of Travels." + +London, March 1, 1815. + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +ACCOUNT OF THE LIFE OF PARK. +Appendix, No. I. + No. II. + No. III. + No. IV. + No. V. + No. VI. + +Explanation of African Words + + * * * * * + +JOURNAL. + +CHAPTER I. + +Departure from Kayee--Arrival at Pisania--Preparations there, and +departure into the Interior--Samee--Payment to Mumbo Jumbo--Reach +Jindey; process of dying cottons at that place--Departure from +Jindey--Cross the Wallia Creek--Kootakunda--Madina--Tabajang--Kingdom of +Jamberoo--Visit from the King's son--Tatticonda--Visit from the son of +the former King of Woolli--Reach Madina, the capital of Woolli--Audience +of the King; his unfriendly conduct--Presents made to him and his +courtiers--Barraconda--Bambakoo--Kanipe; inhospitable conduct of its +inhabitants--Kussai--Nittatrees; restrictions relating to them--Enter +the Simbani Woods--precautions thereon, and sacrifice and prayers for +success--Banks of the Gambia--Crocodiles and hippopotami--Reach +Faraba--Loss of one of the soldiers--Rivers Neaulico and +Nerico--Astronomical observations. + +CHAPTER II. + +Arrival at Jallacotta--Maheena--Tambico--Bady; hostile conduct of the +Faranba, or Chief, and its consequences--Reach Jeningalla-- +Iron-furnaces--Mansafard--Attacked by wolves--Enter the +Tenda Wilderness--Ruins and Plain of Doofroo--Attacked by a swarm of +bees--Astronomical observations--Arrival at Sibikillin--Shea +trees--Badoo; presents made to the King--Tambacunda--Ba Deema +River--Tabba Gee--Mambari--Julifunda; unfriendly conduct of its Chief; +and presents sent to him and the King--Visit from the latter--Reach +Eercella--Baniserite--Celebrate his Majesty's birthday--Mode of fluxing +iron--Madina--Falema river--Satadoo--Sickness and death of the +Carpenter--Arrival at Shrondo; commencement of the rainy season; and +alarming sickness amongst the soldiers--Gold mines; process for +procuring the gold--Dindikoo; gold pits--Cultivation--Arrival at Fankia. + +CHAPTER III. + +Departure from Fankia--Tambaura mountains, and difficulties in ascending +the Pass--Toombin--Great embarrassments on the road--Serimanna--Fajemmia +Astronomical observations--Increase of the sick--Nealakatla--Balee +River--Boontoonkooran--Doggikotta--Falifing--Losses on the road--Gimbia; +inhospitable treatment--Sullo--Face of the country--Secoba +Konkromo--Passage of the Ba Fing--Mode of smelting and working +gold--Fatal accident in crossing the Ba Fing--Hippopotami--Deaths and +losses on the route--Increase of sickness--Reach Viandry--Koeena--Danger +from young lions--Koombandi--Great embarrassments on the +road--Fonilla--Ba Woolima River; difficulties in crossing it--Isaaco +seized by a crocodile--Boolinkoonbo--Distressing situation of the whole +of the party--Reach Serrababoo-Saboseera. + +CHAPTER IV. + +Arrival at Keminoom, or Manniakorro, on the Ba lee river.--Visit to the +Chief--Depredations upon the coffle by the inhabitants--Continued +attacks from banditti as far as the Ba Woolima river.--Difficulties in +passing it--Temporary bridge made by the natives.--Astronomical +observations--Arrival at Mareena; inhospitable conduct of its +inhabitants--Bangassi; interview with the King--Continued sickness, and +deaths among the soldiers.--Arrival at Nummasoolo--Obliged to leave five +of the sick behind--reach Surtaboo--Sobee--Affray between Isaaco and two +soldiers--Balanding--Balandoo--More of the soldiers fall +behind--Koolihori--Greatly annoyed by wolves. + +CHAPTER V. + +Departure from Koolihori--Ganifarra--Scarcity of provisions--Distressing +situation of the Author from deaths and sickness of the party--Escapes +from three lions--Intricate route to Koomikoomi--Dombila--Visit from +Karfa Taura--View of the Niger--Reduced state of the party--Bambakoo-- +Losses from wolves--Bosradoo; embark on the Niger; incidents in the +voyage to Marraboo--Isaaco sent to Sego with presents for Mansong-- +Message from Mansong--Course to Koolikorro--Deena--Yamina--Samee-- +Return of Isaaco; account of his interview with Mansong--Messengers +sent by Mansong, and enquiries respecting the Author's journey--Quit +Samee--Excessive heat--Reach Sansanding--Account of that city and its +trade--Death of Mr. Anderson--Preparations for continuing the voyage +eastward--Information collected respecting various districts. + +ISAACO'S JOURNAL + + + + +ACCOUNT + +OF THE + +LIFE OF MUNGO PARK. + + +Mungo Park was born on the 10th of September 1771, at Fowlshiels, a farm +occupied by his father, under the duke of Buccleugh, on the banks of the +Yarrow not far from the town of Selkirk. His father, who bore the same +name, was a respectable yeoman of Ettrick Forest. His mother, who is +still living, is the daughter of the late Mr. John Hislop, of Tennis, a +few miles higher up on the same river. The subject of this Memoir was +the seventh child, and third son of the family, which consisted of +thirteen children, eight of whom attained to years of maturity. + +Prior to the time of Mungo Park's birth, the father had for many years +practised farming with assiduity and success on the estate at +Fowlshiels, where he died in 1792, after a long and exemplary life, at +the age of seventy-seven. + +Among other estimable qualities which distinguished the father's +character, was a constant and unremitting attention to the education of +his children; a species of merit, which is indeed of common occurrence +among the Scottish farmers and peasantry, but which appears to have been +exemplary and remarkable in the present instance. His family being +numerous, he did not content himself with personally superintending +every part of their education; but, though far from being in affluent +circumstances, engaged a private teacher to reside in his house and +assist in their early instruction. + +It is most satisfactory to add, that these paternal cares were followed +by the happiest results, and received their appropriate reward. Mr. Park +had the gratification of seeing the greater part of his children +respectably settled during his life, and of witnessing their success and +prosperity. + +After having received the first rudiments of education in his father's +family, Mungo Park was in due time removed to the Grammar School at +Selkirk, where he remained a considerable number of years. He had shewn +a great love of reading from his childhood, and was indefatigable in his +application at school, where he was much distinguished and always at the +head of his class. Even at that early age, he was remarked for being +silent, studious and thoughtful: but some sparks of latent ambition +occasionally broke forth: and indications might even then be discovered +of that ardent and adventurous turn of mind, which distinguished him in +after life, and which often lies concealed under a cold and reserved +exterior. + +It was the original intention of Park's father to educate him for the +Scottish church, for which he appeared to be well fitted by his studious +habits and the serious turn of his mind; but, his son having made choice +of the medical profession, he was readily induced to acquiesce. In +consequence of this determination, Mungo Park was bound apprentice at +the age of fifteen to Mr. Thomas Anderson, a respectable surgeon in +Selkirk, with whom he resided three years; continuing, at the same time, +to pursue his classical studies and to attend occasionally at the +grammar school. In the year 1789, he quitted Mr. Anderson, and removed +to the University of Edinburgh, where he pursued the course which is +common to medical students, and attended the usual Lectures during three +successive sessions. + +Nothing particular is recorded of his academical life. He appears, +however, to have applied to the studies connected with the science of +medicine with his accustomed ardour and assiduity, and to have been +distinguished among his fellow-students. During his summer vacations he +paid great attention to botanical pursuits, for which he seems always to +have had a great predilection; and a tour which he made, about this time +to the Highlands, in company with his brother-in-law, Mr. James Dickson, +a distinguished Botanist, contributed greatly to his improvement in this +science. + +After having completed his studies at Edinburgh, Park removed to London +in search of some medical employment. In this pursuit he was much +assisted by his relation Mr. Dickson, to whom he had before been +indebted in his botanical studies. By his means Park was now introduced +to Sir Joseph Banks; whose interest or recommendation shortly afterwards +procured for him the appointment of Assistant Surgeon to the Worcester +East Indiaman. + +From this period Park was honoured with the patronage, and indeed with +the constant friendship, of Sir Joseph Banks, from which he derived many +important advantages, and which had a material influence on the +subsequent events of his life. For this highly valuable friendship he +was originally indebted to a connection which had subsisted for many +years between Sir Joseph and Mr. Dickson: and it may not therefore be +improper, to describe shortly the origin and nature of this connection; +which, besides its immediate influence on Park's fortunes, was attended +with several characteristic circumstances highly honourable to the +parties concerned, and in themselves not uninteresting. + +Mr. Dickson was born of humble parents, and came early in life, from +Scotland, his native country, to London. For some time he worked as a +gardener in the grounds of a considerable nurseryman at Hammersmith, +where he was occasionally seen by Sir Joseph Banks, who took notice of +him as an intelligent young man. Quitting this situation he lived for +some years as gardener in several considerable families: after which he +established himself in London as a seedsman; and has ever since followed +that business with unremitting diligence and success. Having an ardent +passion for botany, which he had always cultivated according to the best +of his means and opportunities; he lost no time in presenting himself to +Sir Joseph Banks, who received him with great kindness, encouraged him +in his pursuits, and gave him access to his valuable library. He thus +obtained the free use of one of the most complete collections on Botany +and Natural History, which has perhaps, ever yet been formed; and which, +through the liberality of its possessor, has contributed in a greater +degree to the accommodation of scientific men, and the general +advancement of science than many public establishments. Such leisure +hours as Mr. Dickson could command from his business, he devoted to an +assiduous attendance in this library or to the perusal of scientific +books obtained from thence. In process of time he acquired great +knowledge and became eminent among the English Botanists; and is now +known in Europe among the proficients in that science as one of its most +successful cultivators, and the author of some distinguished Works. At +an advanced period of life he is still active in business, and continues +to pursue his botanical studies with unabated ardour and assiduity. +[Footnote: Mr. Dickson is a Fellow of the Linnæan Society, of which he +was one of the original founders: and also Fellow and Vice President of +the Horticultural Society. Several communications from him, appear in +different volumes of the Linnæan Transactions; but he is principally +known among Botanists by a work entitled, "Fasciculi Quatuor Plantarum, +Cryptogamicarum Britanniæ." _Lond._ 1785-93; in which he has described +upwards of four hundred plants not before noticed. He has the merit of +having directed the attention of the Botanists of this country to one of +the most abstruse and difficult parts of that science; to the +advancement of which he has himself, very greatly contributed.] + +Such an instance of successful industry united with a taste for +intellectual pursuits, deserves to be recorded; not only on account of +its relation to the subject of this narrative, but because, it +illustrates in a very striking and pleasing manner, the advantages of +education in the lower classes of life. The attention of the Scottish +farmers and peasantry to the early instruction of their children has +been already remarked, and is strongly exemplified in the history of Mr. +Park's family. The diffusion of knowledge among the natives of that part +of the kingdom, and their general intelligence, must be admitted by +every unprejudiced observer; nor is there any country in which the +effects of education are so conspicuous in promoting industry and good +conduct, and in producing useful and respectable men of the inferior and +middle classes, admirably fitted for all the important offices of common +life. [Footnote: See Appendix, No. I.] + + * * * * * + +In consequence of the appointment which Mungo Park had obtained as +surgeon in the East India Company's service, by the interest of Sir +Joseph Banks, he sailed for the East Indies in the Worcester in the +month of February, 1792; and having made a voyage to Bencoolen, in the +island of Sumatra, returned to England in the following year. Nothing +material occurred during this voyage: but he availed himself of all the +opportunities which it afforded to obtain information in his favourite +scientific pursuits, and appears to have made many observations, and +collected many specimens, in Botany and Natural History. Several of +these were the subjects of a communication made by him to the Linnæan +Society, which was afterwards published in their printed Transactions. +[Footnote: In the Third Volume of the Linnæan Transactions, p. 83, is a +paper by Park, read Nov. 4,1794, containing descriptions of eight new +fishes from Sumatra; which he represents to be the fruit of his leisure +hours during his stay on that coast.] + +It does not sufficiently appear, whether Mr. Park, after his return from +the East Indies, came to any final resolution with regard to his +continuing as a surgeon in the Company's service. But whatever might be +his intention in this respect, new prospects now opened upon him, and a +scene of action far more congenial to his taste and feelings, was +presented to his ambition. + +Some years prior to this period, a few distinguished individuals, +induced by a very liberal spirit of curiosity, had formed themselves +into an Association for promoting discoveries in the Interior of Africa, +and were now prosecuting their researches with great activity and +success. In the course of a few years they had investigated, and placed +in a clearer point of view than had hitherto been done by geographers, +some of the leading facts relative to the Northern part of that +Continent; the characteristic differences of the principal tribes, their +commercial relations, the routes of the great caravans, the general +diffusion of the Mahomedan religion, and the consequent prevalence of +the Arabic language throughout a considerable part of that vast +continent. [Footnote: See Vol. I. of the Proceedings of African +Association. London, 1810.] With the assistance of their distinguished +Associate, Major Rennell, they were now proceeding to trace the +principal geographical outlines of Northern Africa; and were +endeavouring to ascertain the course of the great inland river Joliba or +Niger, and to obtain some authentic information concerning Tombuctoo, a +principal city of the interior and one of the great marts of African +commerce. + +In the course of these enquiries, the Association, since their first +establishment in 1788, had employed several persons, well qualified for +such undertakings, upon missions into various parts of the African +Continent. Several of these were known to have perished, either as +victims of the climate, or in contests with the natives; [Footnote: The +persons who had been sent out prior to this period, were Mr. Ledyard, +Mr. Lucas, Major Houghton, and Mr. Horneman: subsequently to which, +several others have been employed; viz. Mr. Nichols, Mr. Bourcard, &c.] +and intelligence had lately been received of the death of Major +Houghton, who had been sent out to explore the course of the Niger, and +to penetrate, if possible, to Tombuctoo and Houssa. The Association +appear to have found considerable difficulty in supplying Major +Houghton's place; and had made known their readiness to give a liberal +compensation to any person, competently qualified, who might be willing +to proceed on this important and arduous mission. + +The attention of Park was naturally drawn to this subject, in +consequence of his connection with Sir Joseph Banks, who had received +him with great kindness and cordiality on his return from the East +Indies, and with whom he was now in habits of frequent intercourse. Sir +Joseph Banks was one of the most active and leading members of the +African Association, and with his accustomed zeal for the promotion of +scientific discovery, was earnest in his endeavours to find out a proper +person to undertake the mission in search of the Niger. There was +nothing in Park's previous studies which had particularly led him +towards geographical pursuits; but he had a general passion for +travelling; he was in the full vigour of life; his constitution had been +in some degree inured to hot climates; he saw the opportunities which a +new country would afford of indulging his taste for Natural History: nor +was he insensible to the distinction which was likely to result from any +great discoveries in African geography. These considerations determined +him. Having fully informed himself as to what was expected by the +Association, he eagerly offered himself for the service; and after some +previous enquiry into his qualifications, the offer was readily +accepted. + +Between the time of Park's return from India in 1793, and his departure +to Africa, an interval elapsed of about two years. During the whole of +this period (with the exception of a short visit to Scotland in 1794), +he appears to have resided in London or its neighbourhood; being engaged +partly in his favourite studies, or in literary or scientific society; +but principally in acquiring the knowledge and making the preparations, +which were requisite for his great undertaking. + +Having received his final instructions from the African Association, he +set sail from Portsmouth on the 22d of May, 1795, on board the +Endeavour, an African trader, bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on +the 21st of the following month. It is not the intention of this +narrative to follow him through the details of this journey, a full +account of which was afterwards published by Park, and is familiar to +every reader. But it may be useful to mention the material dates and +some of the principal transactions. + +Having landed on the 21st of June at Jillifree, a small town near the +mouth of the River Gambia; he proceeded shortly afterwards to Pisania, a +British factory about 200 miles up the same river, where he arrived on +the 5th of July, and was most hospitably received by Dr. Laidley, a +gentleman who had resided many years at that settlement. He remained at +Dr. Laidley's house for several months, in order to learn the Mandingo +language, which is in general use throughout that part of Africa, and +also to collect information concerning the countries he intended to +visit. During two of these months he was confined by a severe fever, +caught by imprudently exposing himself during the rainy season. + +He left Pisania on the 2d of December, 1795, directing his course +easterly, with a view of proceeding to the River Joliba, or Niger. But +in consequence of a war between two sovereigns in the Interior, he was +obliged, after he had made some progress, to take a northerly direction +towards the territory of the Moors. He arrived at Jarra, the frontier +town of that country, on the 18th of February, 1796. Pursuing his +journey from thence, he was taken and detained as a prisoner, by Ali, +the chieftain or king of that territory, on the 7th of March; and after +a long captivity and a series of unexampled hardships, escaped at last +with great difficulty early in the month of July. + +The period was now approaching when he was to receive some compensation +for so many sufferings. After wandering in great misery for about three +weeks through the African Wilderness, he arrived at Sego, the capital of +Bambarra, a city which is said to contain thirty thousand inhabitants. +He was gratified at the same time by the first sight of the Niger, the +great object of his journey; and ascertained the extraordinary fact, +that its course is from West to East. + +After a short stay at Sego (where he did not find it safe to remain), +Park proceeded down the river to Silla, a large town distant about +seventy or eighty miles, on the banks of the Niger. He was now reduced +to the greatest distress, and being convinced by painful experience, +that the obstacles to his further progress were insurmountable, he +reluctantly abandoned his design of proceeding eastwards; and came to +the resolution of going back to Sego, and endeavouring to effect his +return to the Gambia by a different route from that by which he had +advanced into Africa. + +On the 3d of August, 1796, he left Silla, and pursuing the course of the +Niger, arrived at Bammakoo, the frontier of Bambarra, about the 23d of +the same month. Here he quitted the Niger, which ceases to be navigable +at this place; and travelling for several weeks through a mountainous +and difficult country, reached Kamalia, in the territory of Manding, on +the 16th of September. He performed the latter part of this journey on +foot, having been obliged to leave his horse, now worn out with fatigue +and unable to proceed farther. + +Having encountered all the horrors of the rainy season, and being worn +down by fatigue, his health had, at different times, been seriously +affected. But, soon after his arrival at Kamalia, he fell into a severe +and dangerous fit of sickness, by which he was closely confined for +upwards of a month. His life was preserved by the hospitality and +benevolence of Karfa Taura, a Negro, who received him into his house, +and whose family attended him with the kindest solicitude. The same +excellent person, at the time of Park's last Mission into Africa, +hearing that a white man was travelling through the country, whom he +imagined to be Park, took a journey of six days to meet him; and joining +the caravan at Bambakoo, was highly gratified by the sight of his +friend. [Footnote: See Journal, p. 137.] + +There being still a space of five hundred miles to be traversed (the +greater part of it through a desert) before Park could reach any +friendly country on the Gambia, he had no other resource but to wait +with patience for the first caravan of slaves that might travel the same +track. No such opportunity occurred till the latter end of April, 1797; +when a coffle, or caravan, set out from Kamalia under the direction of +Karfa Taura, in whose house he had continued during his long residence +of more than seven months at that place. + +The coffle began its progress westwards on the 17th of April, and on the +4th of June reached the banks of the Gambia, after a journey of great +labour and difficulty, which afforded Park the most painful +opportunities of witnessing the miseries endured by a caravan of slaves +in their transportation from the interior to the coast. On the 10th of +the same month Park arrived at Pisania, from whence he had set out +eighteen months before; and was received by Dr. Laidley (to use his own +expression) as one risen from the grave. On the 15th of June he embarked +in a slave ship bound to America, which was driven by stress of weather +to the West Indies; and got with great difficulty, and under +circumstances of considerable danger, into the Island of Antigua. He +sailed from thence on the 24th of November, and after a short, but +tempestuous passage, arrived at Falmouth on the 22d of the following +month, having been absent from England two years and seven months. + +Immediately on his landing he hastened to London, anxious in the +greatest degree about his family and friends, of whom he had heard +nothing for two years. He arrived in London before day-light on the +morning of Christmas day, 1797; and it being too early an hour to go to +his brother-in-law, Mr. Dickson, he wandered for some time about the +streets in that quarter of the town where his house was. Finding one of +the entrances into the gardens of the British Museum accidentally open, +he went in and walked about there for some time. It happened that Mr. +Dickson, who had the care of those gardens, went there early that +morning upon some trifling business. What must have been his emotions on +beholding at that extraordinary time and place, the vision, as it must +at first have appeared, of his long-lost friend, the object of so many +anxious reflexions, and whom he had long numbered with the dead! + + * * * * * + +Park's arrival was hailed with a sort of triumph by his friends of the +African Association, and in some degree, by the public at large. The +nature and objects of his mission, his long absence, and his unexpected +return, excited a very general interest; which was afterwards kept up by +the reports which prevailed respecting the discoveries he had made. The +Association, with that liberality which characterised every part of +their proceedings, gave him full permission to publish his Travels for +his own benefit; and it was speedily announced, that a complete +narrative of the journey would be prepared by Park himself, and given to +the public. But in the mean time, in order to gratify, in a certain +degree, the curiosity which prevailed, an Abstract, of the Travels, +prepared from Park's own minutes, was drawn up by Mr. Bryan Edwards, +secretary of the African Association, and was printed and distributed +for the private use of the subscribers. [Footnote: Proceedings of +African Association. Vol. I. p. 327.] This Abstract, which was written +with perspicuity and elegance, formed the principal ground-work of the +Book of Travels which was subsequently published. + +To the Abstract or Narrative, thus circulated, was annexed an important +Memoir by Major Rennell, consisting of geographical illustrations of +Park's Journey, which afterwards, by that gentleman's permission, formed +a valuable appendage to the quarto edition of the Travels. + +After his return from Africa, Park remained for a considerable time +stationary in London, and was diligently employed in arranging the +materials for his intended publication. He had frequent occasion, also, +to communicate on the subject of his discoveries with the members of the +African Association, especially with Major Rennell and Mr. Edwards, +whilst they were engaged in preparing the two Memoirs before alluded to. +With Mr. Edwards, in particular, he seems to have lived on terms of +great friendship, and to have occasionally paid him visits at his +country residence near Southampton. + +It was nearly about this time (the Spring of the year 1798) that +Government, having it in contemplation to procure a complete survey of +New Holland, made some application to Park, with a view of employing him +upon that service. The particulars of this transaction are not known to +Park's family, nor is it now material to enquire; since the proposal, +whatever it might be, was declined. It was afterwards repeated, and +again declined, during the following year. + +In June, 1798, he visited his mother, who still resided at Fowlshiels, +and his other relations in Scotland, and remained with them the whole of +the summer and autumn. During all this time he was assiduously employed +in compiling and arranging the Account of his Travels. His materials for +this work are stated to have consisted of short notes or memoranda, +written on separate pieces of paper, forming an imperfect journal of his +proceedings. Where these were wanting, he supplied the deficiency from +his memory. [Footnote: Enquiry has been made for the notes here alluded +to, with a view to the elucidation of several points connected with this +narrative, but without success; it being stated by Mr. Dickson, that a +number of loose papers were left at his house by Park, and remained +there for some time; but being considered of no use, were mislaid or +destroyed; and that none of them are now to be found.] + +His family represent him dating this period as leading the life of a +severe student, employed on his papers during the whole of the mornings, +and allowing himself little or no recreation, except a solitary evening +walk on the banks of the Yarrow. Occasionally, however, he would indulge +himself in longer excursions among the wild and romantic scenery of that +neighbourhood, to which he was fondly and almost enthusiastically +attached. [Footnote: The situation of Fowlshiels on the banks of the +Yarrow is said to be picturesque and striking. It is in the immediate +vicinity of Bow-hill, a beautiful summer-residence of the Duke of +Buccleugh; and at no great distance from the ruins of Newark Castle, and +other scenes celebrated in the _Lay of the Last Minstrel_] + +He quitted Fowlshiels, with great regret towards the latter end of 1798, +when it was necessary for him to return to London, to prepare for his +intended publication. He carried back with him a great mass of papers, +the produce of his summer's labour; and after his return to London, +bestowed considerable pains in the correction and retrenchment of his +manuscript before it was sent to the press. It was finally published in +the Spring of the year 1799. + +The applause with which this work was received, and the permanent +reputation which it has obtained, are well known. Two impressions were +rapidly sold off; several other editions have since been called for; and +it continues even at the present time to be a popular and standard book. +This distinguished success has been owing, not only to the interesting +nature of its subject, but in a certain degree also to the merits of the +work as a composition; to the clearness of the descriptions, the natural +and easy flow of the narration, and the general elegance of the style. + +But the essential merit of this book, and that which has conferred a +lasting distinction on the name of its author, consists in the authentic +and important information which it contains. Considered in this point of +view, it must unquestionably be regarded as the greatest accession to +the general stock of geographical knowledge, which was ever yet made by +any single traveller. The claim of Park to this distinction will be +apparent from a short view of his principal discoveries. + +Among the great variety of facts concerning the Interior of Africa not +before known, or at least not ascertained, which the labours of Park +have placed beyond all doubt, the most interesting unquestionably are, +those which relate to the existence of the great inland river, the +Niger, as a distinct and separate stream, and its course from West to +East; affording a remarkable confirmation of what had been stated +concerning this river by Herodotus and the ancient writers; but which +was afterwards controverted by the geographers of the middle ages, who +asserted (what, independently of direct evidence, seemed more probable) +that the course of the river was from East to West. This latter opinion +had accordingly been followed by the greater part of the moderns; with +the exception indeed of some of the most distinguished geographers of +later times, particularly, D'Anville and Major Rennell, who had called +in question the doctrine then prevalent, and given strong reasons for +adhering to the ancient opinion. This however at the time of Park's +journey, could be considered in no other light than as a reasonable +conjecture, till the fact was ascertained by the unexceptionable +testimony of an eye-witness. [Footnote: See Appendix, No. II.] + +Another important circumstance respecting the Niger, previously unknown, +but which was fully established by Park, is the vast magnitude of that +stream; an extraordinary fact, considering its situation and inland +course, and which has led, as will hereafter be seen, to several +interesting conjectures respecting the course and the termination of +that river. + +In addition to these discoveries relative to the _physical_ state of +Africa, others were made by Park scarcely less important; in what may be +termed its moral geography; namely, the kind and amiable dispositions of +the Negro inhabitants of the Interior, as contrasted with the +intolerance and brutal ferocity of the Moors; the existence of great and +populous cities in the heart of Africa; and the higher state of +improvement and superior civilization of the inhabitants of the +interior, on a comparison with the inhabitants of the countries +adjoining to the coast. + +To this it may be added, that the work in question contains many +interesting details not before known, concerning the face of the +country, its soil and productions, as well as the condition of the +inhabitants; their principal occupations, and their manners and habits +of life; and the anecdotes which are interspersed, illustrative of the +character and disposition of the Negro inhabitants at a distance from +the coast, and beyond the influence of the Slave Trade, are in the +highest degree interesting and affecting. [Footnote: See especially the +following passages in Park's Travels, p. 82, 197, 336.] + +The difficulties and dangers endured by the author in traversing this +unknown continent; and the rare union of prudence, temper and +perseverance, with the greatest ardour and enterprise, which +distinguished his conduct in the most trying situations, give an +additional value to Park's narrative. In this important, but difficult, +part of his work be appears to have been peculiarly successful. His +natural and unaffected manner of describing exertions and sufferings +which almost surpass the fictions of romance, carries a feeling and +conviction of truth to the mind of every reader, and excites deeper and +more powerful emotions than have often been produced, even by works of +imagination. + +It is painful, after bestowing this well-merited praise, to be under the +necessity of adverting to two circumstances unfavourable to Park's +memory, connected with the history of this publication. These are, 1st. +an opinion which has prevailed, that Park was a supporter of the cause +of Slavery, and an enemy to the Abolition of the African Slave Trade; +and 2dly. a report, equally current, that the Travels, of which he was +the professed author, were composed not by Park himself, but in a very +considerable degree, by Mr. Bryan Edwards.--Topics, thus personal and +invidious, the writer of this Memoir would naturally wish to decline; +but they are too intimately connected with the principal occurrences of +Park's life to admit of being passed over without particular enquiry and +examination. For this purpose, it will be necessary to trace, more +distinctly than has hitherto been done, the connection between Park and +Mr. Bryan Edwards; which was a principal cause of the reports above +alluded to. + +Mr. Edwards was an intelligent and respectable man, of no inconsiderable +literary attainments, and known as the author of the _History of the +British Colonies in the West Indies_. Being possessed of property in +Jamaica, he resided there many years as a planter; during which time he +was an eloquent and leading member of the House of Assembly, or +Provincial Legislature of that island. Some time about the year 1794, +when the question of the Slave Trade had for several years engaged the +attention of the British parliament and public, he quitted the West +Indies and came to England, where he fixed his residence for the +remainder of his life. He shortly afterwards obtained a seat in the +House of Commons, where he established a character as a man of business, +and came forward on every occasion as the advocate of the planters, and +the supporter of what are called the West India interests. In all +debates upon questions connected with the Slave Trade he took an active +part; and during the whole of his parliamentary career was a leading and +systematic opponent of the Abolition. + +As secretary of the African Association, Mr. Edwards had constant +intercourse and communication with Park from the time when the latter +first arrived from Africa; and must immediately have seen the advantage +to be gained for the Slave Trade by a skilful use of the influence which +this situation gave him. His first object must naturally have been, to +gain the services of Park in the direct support of the Slave Trade; or, +if this should be found impracticable, he might at least hope to secure +his neutrality, and prevent him from joining the ranks of his opponents. +It is not meant to be insinuated that Mr. Edwards exerted any influence +which was manifestly undue and improper, or that he was disposed to go +greater lengths than any other man of a warm and sanguine temper, in +support of a cause in which he was deeply embarked, and of the +importance of which he felt the strongest conviction. The sentiments and +conduct here imputed to him, arose naturally out of the situation in +which he was placed; and he probably did no more than would have been +done under similar circumstances, by any partizan of the Abolition, +equally able and zealous. + +A previous knowledge of these particulars is necessary for enabling the +reader to form a judgment upon the two points connected with the +publication of Park's Travels, which were before alluded to. With +respect to the first of these questions, namely, that relative to Park's +sentiments on the subject of the Abolition, the writer of this +narrative, in consequence of information he has obtained from some of +Park's nearest relations, is enabled to state with great confidence, +that Park uniformly expressed a great abhorrence of Slavery and the +Slave Trade, whenever these subjects occurred in conversation. But the +same persons farther represent, that he considered the Abolition of the +Slave Trade as a measure of _state policy_; for which reason he thought +it would be improper for him, in any work he might give to the public, +to interpose his private opinion relative to a question of such +importance, and which was then under the consideration of the +Legislature. + +Whatever may be thought of the correctness of this opinion, it is +necessary to observe that the rule which he thus prescribed for his own +conduct, was not strictly adhered to; or rather, that the system of +neutrality which he professed, had, in a certain degree, the effect of a +declaration of opinion. From the time of the publication of Park's +Travels, his name was constantly mentioned in the list of persons +conversant with Africa, who were not friendly to the Abolition; and his +authority was always appealed to with some triumph by the advocates of +the Slave Trade: and this, apparently, with good reason. For, although +the author avowedly abstained from giving an explicit opinion as to the +effects of that traffic, yet the general tone of his work appeared to +leave no doubt with regard to his real sentiments; and indeed the +_silence_ of so intelligent a traveller relative to a subject which must +necessarily have engaged so much of his attention, was in itself a +sufficient proof, of a bias existing in the mind of the writer, +unfavourable to the Abolition. For to what other cause could it be +attributed, that the Slave Trade was never once mentioned in Park's book +as having the smallest share in promoting the barbarism and internal +disorders of the African Continent? Or, that in his pathetic description +of the miseries endured by the caravan of slaves which the author +accompanied from Kamalia to the Gambia (a journey of five hundred +miles), not the slightest allusion was made to the obvious and immediate +cause of these sufferings, the demand for slaves on the coast?--It must +further be recollected, that the Slave Trade, at the time when Park +wrote, had engaged universal attention, and was become the subject of +much controversy and public discussion; yet this topic, of so much +interest and importance, occurs only once in the course of these +Travels; and is then hastily dismissed with a slight and unmeaning +observation. + +[Footnote: The passage here particularly alluded to, is so +extraordinary, and affords such an illustration of the influence under +which this work was composed, that it deserves to be transcribed. After +a description of the state of slavery in Africa, which the author +represents as a sort of necessary evil, deeply rooted in the habits and +manners of that country (but without in the least alluding to the great +aggravation of the evil arising from the European Slave Trade), the +author concludes his remarks as follows: "Such are the general outlines +of that system of slavery which prevails in Africa; and it is evident, +from its nature and extent, that it is a system of no modern date. It +probably had its origin in the remote ages of antiquity, before the +Mahomedans explored a passage across the Desert. How far it is +maintained and supported by the Slave Traffic which, for two hundred +years, the nations of Europe have carried on with the natives of the +coast, it is neither within my province, nor in my power, to explain. If +my sentiments should be required concerning the effect which a +discontinuance of that commerce would produce on the manners of the +natives, I should have no hesitation in observing, that in the present +unenlightened state of their minds, my opinion is, the effect would +neither be so extensive nor beneficial as many wise and worthy persons +fondly expect." (Park's Travels, p. 297.) + +On reading this passage, it is impossible not to be struck both with the +opinion itself and the manner in which it is expressed. The proposition, +literally taken, is a mere _truism_, undeniably just, but of no +practical value or importance. For, who doubts that the probable good +effects of the Abolition may have been overrated by men of warm and +sanguine benevolence? Or, who would assert, that such exaggerations +ought to have any weight in argument, except as inducements to greater +caution and deliberation?--But, the evident intention of the passage is, +to convey a meaning beyond what "meets the ear"; to produce an +_impression_ on the reader, independent of any proofs or principles by +which his opinion ought to be governed; and to insinuate, what it is not +thought proper to assert, that the zeal manifested in favour of the +Abolition originated solely in ignorance and enthusiasm.] + +It is a remarkable circumstance, that while the supposed _opinions_ of +Park have always been appealed to by the advocates of the Slave Trade, +his _facts_ have as constantly been relied on by their opponents; and +that in the various discussions which have taken place upon that subject +since this work has appeared, the principal illustrations of the +arguments in favour of the Abolition, have always been derived from the +statements contained in Park's Travels. This circumstance deserves +particular attention, considering the evident bias under which the work +was composed; and affords a strong presumption of the truth and fidelity +of the narrative. [Footnote: For an enumeration of the various facts +contained in Park's Travels, which are relied on as favourable to the +cause of the Abolition, accompanied by the proper references, see _A +concise statement of the question regarding the Abolition of the Slave +Trade._ 3d Ed. 1804, p. 99-106. A work, containing the most complete +summary of the arguments upon this great subject, which has yet +appeared.] + +The fair result of the foregoing enquiry, relative to Park's opinions +with regard to the Abolition, appears to be shortly this; that he was at +no time the friend or deliberate advocate of the Slave Trade; but that, +his respect and deference for Mr. Edwards led him, in a certain degree, +to sacrifice his own opinions and feelings upon that subject; and that +he became, perhaps almost unconsciously, the supporter of a cause of +which he disapproved. That he should have been under any temptation to +suppress or soften any important opinion, or to deviate in any respect +from that ingenuousness and good faith which naturally belonged to his +character, is a circumstance which cannot be sufficiently lamented. But +if there are any who feel disposed to pass a very severe censure upon +Park's conduct, let his situation at the time when he was preparing his +Travels for the press, be fairly considered. He was then a young man, +inexperienced in literary composition, and in a great measure dependent, +as to the prospects of his future life, upon the success of his intended +publication. His friend and adviser, Mr. Edwards, was a man of letters +and of the world, who held a distinguished place in society, and was, +besides, a leading member of the African Association, to which Park owed +every thing, and with which his fate and fortunes were still intimately +connected. It is difficult to estimate the degree of authority which a +person possessing these advantages, and of a strong and decisive +character, must necessarily have had over the mind of a young man in the +situation which has now been described. Suggestions coming from such a +quarter, must have been almost equivalent to commands; and instead of +animadverting very severely on the extent of Park's compliances, we +ought perhaps rather to be surprised, that more was not yielded to an +influence which must have been nearly unlimited. + +Before we dismiss this subject, it may be proper to add, that some time +subsequent to the publication of his Travels, Park appeared to be fully +sensible that the manner in which he had treated the question of the +Slave Trade, was liable to some objections; and evidence now exists, +that upon some occasions when his authority had been appealed to as +being favourable to that system, he expressed his regret that an +improper stress had been laid upon certain passages in his Travels, and +that a meaning had been attributed to them, which it was not intended +that they should bear. + +It remains to be enquired, whether there is any just foundation for the +opinion which has prevailed with regard to the degree of assistance +given by Mr. Edwards in the actual composition of Park's work; as to +which very few remarks will be necessary. The intimate connection of Mr. +Edwards with Park, the interest which he took in the success of his +publication, and the influence which he appears to have exerted with +respect to its contents, make it quite evident, that he must have seen, +and been consulted upon, every part of the work; and there can be no +question but that he, at least, revised and corrected the whole +manuscript before it was sent to the press. It was avowed by Park +himself, that as occasion offered, he had incorporated into different +parts of his work, by permission of Mr. Edwards, the _whole_ of the +narrative prepared by the latter for the use of the Association. +[Footnote: Park's Travels. Preface, p. ix.] A person accustomed to +literary composition, and confident of his own powers, would hardly have +chosen to avail himself of this assistance; which would be attended only +with a slight saving of labour, and might probably have the unpleasant +effect of a mixture of different styles. No such disadvantage, it maybe +observed, has in fact resulted from the course pursued in the present +instance. No inequalities are apparent in Park's narrative; nor are the +passages which have been inserted from Mr. Edwards's Memoir, to be +distinguished from the rest of the work. The style is throughout +uniform, and bears all the marks of a practised pen. Generally speaking +indeed, it is more simple, and consequently more pleasing, than that of +Mr. Edwards's avowed compositions. But, notwithstanding its general +merits, it is altogether perhaps too much laboured; and in particular +passages, betrays too much of the art of a professed writer. [Footnote: +It would be easy, but invidious, to produce passages from Park's work +more or less marked with some of the characteristics of Mr. Edwards's +style, and, in particular, with that tendency to ambitious ornament, +which is so conspicuous in many parts of the _History of the West +Indies_.--The following extract from Park's chapter on the state of +Slavery in Africa, may be sufficient. "In a country divided into a +thousand petty states, mostly independent, and jealous of each other, +where every freeman is accustomed to arms, and fond of military +achievements; where the youth who has practised the bow and spear from +his infancy, longs for nothing so much as an opportunity to display his +valour, it is natural to imagine, that wars frequently originate from +very frivolous provocation. When one nation is more powerful than +another, a pretext is seldom wanting for commencing hostilities. Thus, +the war between Kajaaga and Kasson was occasioned by the detention of a +fugitive slave:--that between Bambarra and Kaarta by the loss of a few +cattle. Other cases of the same nature perpetually occur, _in which the +folly or mad ambition of their princes and the zeal of their religious +enthusiasts give full employment for the scythe of desolation_." (Park's +Travels, p. 290.)--On reading this passage, and the chapter from which +it is taken, it may deserve to be remarked, (with reference to former +observations as to the bias under which Park's work was written) that in +enumerating the causes of the wars which desolate Africa, the Slave +Trade is never once mentioned.] + +From these observations, combined with the several facts before stated, +it seems clearly to follow, that Mr. Edwards had a large share in Park's +work; and, without attempting to ascertain in what degree he assisted in +the composition, it may safely be affirmed that the assistance afforded +was considerable and important. [Footnote: See Appendix, No. III.] + +It would be a subject of sincere regret to the author of this +biographical sketch, if he thought that this opinion (which he does not +feel himself at liberty to suppress,) was likely to detract in any +material degree from Park's well-earned reputation. But he is satisfied +that there is no just cause for such an apprehension. It is +unquestionably most desirable, that the adventures and discoveries of +distinguished travellers should be given to the public, as far as +circumstances will permit, in the language of the parties themselves; +and there is no judicious reader, who would not decidedly prefer the +simple, but authentic, narrative of an eye-witness, to any account of +the same transactions from a different hand, however superior in +literary merit. But the custom of employing professional writers upon +similar occasions, has become so frequent, that the resorting to such +assistance in any particular instance can no longer be considered as a +just subject of animadversion; and, in forming our judgment upon books +of voyages and travels (in which this practice is most common), we must +in general rest satisfied, if we can obtain a reasonable assurance, that +the compiler has made a correct and proper use of his materials. That +this duty has been faithfully and conscientiously performed in the case +of Park's Travels, there is not the slightest reason to doubt. The +authenticity of the work is apparent, not only, as has been already +stated, from the internal evidence of many parts of the narrative, but +from the known character of Park, as well as of Mr. Edwards, his +associate; who (there is every reason to believe) was a man of honour +and veracity, and incapable of concealing or wilfully misrepresenting +any important fact or circumstance. + +It must further be recollected, that the essential merit of works of +this description, consists in the authenticity and importance of the +information they contain; compared with which, the beauties of style and +composition are only of secondary and very inferior importance. The +literary character of Park forms a small part of his general reputation. +This must always rest upon grounds altogether independent of the merits +of his work as a composition; and whatever may be hereafter thought of +his claims to distinction as a writer, his fame as a geographical +discoverer, an explorer of unknown countries, and a man of courage and +capacity in the most arduous and trying situations, must ever remain +undiminished. + + * * * * * + +After the publication of his Travels, Park began to think of settling +himself in life. During his last residence in Scotland in the Summer and +Autumn of 1798, he had formed a matrimonial engagement with the eldest +daughter of Mr. Anderson of Selkirk, with whom he had served his +apprenticeship. He returned therefore to Scotland in the Summer of 1799, +and was married on the 2d of August in that year. This union, which +connected him still more closely with a family with which he had long +lived in friendship, contributed in a high degree to his future comfort +and happiness. + +For more than two years after his marriage, he resided with his mother +and one of his brothers, who lived together and carried on the farm at +Fowlshiels. The reason of his continuing there so long a time does not +very distinctly appear, nor is any thing particular related as to the +manner in which he employed himself during this period. The profits of +his publication, and the liberal compensation which he had received from +the African Association for the services rendered to them, had placed +him, for the present, in easy circumstances: and he remained for a long +time altogether doubtful and unsettled as to his future plan of life. +During part of the year 1799 he appears to have been engaged in a +negotiation with government (which finally proved unsuccessful) relative +to some public appointment in the colony of New South Wales. At another +time he had partly determined to look out for a farm; and at last came, +somewhat reluctantly, to the determination of practising his profession, +to which he was perhaps at no time much attached, and which was now +become more irksome from disuse. + +The uncertainty in the state of his affairs during this period was much +encreased by the hope, which he constantly entertained, of being sent +out on another expedition, either by the African Association or by +Government. This clearly appears from a letter which he wrote to Sir +Joseph Banks, dated 31st of July, 1800; in which, he alludes to the late +capture of Goree, which he considers as introductory to opening a +communication with the Interior of Africa; and after entering into some +details relative to that subject, he proceeds as follows: "If such are +the views of Government, I hope that my exertions in some station or +other, may be of use to my country. I have not as yet found any +situation in which I could practise to advantage as a surgeon; and +unless some of my friends interest themselves in my behalf, I must wait +patiently, until the cloud which hangs over my future prospects is +dispelled." + +An opportunity for medical practice, which was thought sufficiently +promising, having offered itself at Peebles, he went to reside at that +town in the month of October, 1801, and betook himself in good earnest +to the exercise of his profession. Within no great length of time he +acquired a good share of the business of the place and its +neighbourhood: but this being very limited, his profits were at no time +considerable. He was however very fully employed; for he was greatly +distinguished by the kindness which he shewed towards the poor, and by +that disinterested attention to the lower classes, which is one of the +great virtues of the medical profession. + +Under these circumstances, it cannot be thought surprising that he was +dissatisfied with his situation, and looked anxiously forward to some +other establishment. His former habits of life had indeed in a great +measure disqualified him for his present humble occupations. The +situation of a country practitioner in Scotland, attended with great +anxiety and bodily fatigue, and leading to no distinction or much +personal advantage, was little calculated to gratify a man, whose mind +was full of ambitious views, and of adventurous and romantic +undertakings. His journies to visit distant patients--his long and +solitary rides over "cold and lonely heaths" and "gloomy hills assailed +by the wintry tempest," seem to have produced in him feelings of disgust +and impatience, which he had perhaps rarely experienced in the deserts +of Africa. His strong sense of the irksomeness of this way of life broke +out from him upon many occasions; especially, when previously to his +undertaking his second African mission, one of his nearest relations +expostulated with him on the imprudence of again exposing himself to +dangers which he had so very narrowly escaped, and perhaps even to new +and still greater ones; he calmly replied, that a few inglorious winters +of country practice at Peebles was a risk as great, and would tend as +effectually to shorten life, as the journey which he was about to +undertake. + +It might have been expected, that a person who had been so much +accustomed to literary and scientific society, and who had lately been +in some degree admitted into the fashionable circles of the metropolis, +in which he had become an object of much interest and attention, would +have felt great repugnance to the solitude and obscurity of a small +market town. But this does not appear to have been the case. General +society, for which indeed he was not particularly suited, was not much +to his taste; and during every period of his life, he always looked +forward to a state of complete retirement and seclusion in the country, +as the object and end of all his labours. He had great enjoyment however +in his own domestic circle, and in the society of select friends; and +his residence at Peebles was, in this respect, highly fortunate for him, +since it was the occasion of his becoming acquainted with two +distinguished residents in that neighbourhood; Colonel John Murray of +Kringaltie, a very respectable old officer, then retired from the +service, and Dr. Adam Ferguson; with both of whom he became intimate, +and passed much of his time. The latter of these, then residing at +Hallyards in Tweedsdale, is the well-known author of the _Essay on Civil +Society_, and _History of the Roman Republic_, and was formerly +Professor of Moral Philosophy at Edinburgh; where, during many years, he +was one of that distinguished literary circle, of which Hume, Smith, +Black, and Robertson, were the principal ornaments. At the venerable age +of ninety-one, he is still living, the last survivor of that illustrious +society. + +The friendship of a man thus interesting and distinguished, was highly +honourable to Park, who was duly sensible of its value. Nor was this +instance singular. The papers transmitted by his family speak of other +testimonies of respect, which, subsequently to Park's return to Scotland +in 1799, he received from various distinguished individuals of his own +country; and they mention, in particular, that he was very highly +gratified by some personal attentions which he received about this time +from Mr. Dugald Stewart. + +In the midst of these occupations Park's thoughts were still turned upon +Africa. Soon after the signature of the Preliminary Articles of Peace +with France, in October, 1801, he received a letter from Sir Joseph +Banks, acquainting him, "that in consequence of the Peace, the +Association would certainly revive their project of sending a mission to +Africa; in order to penetrate to, and navigate, the Niger; and he added, +that in case Government should enter into the plan, Park would certainly +be recommended as the person proper to be employed for carrying it into +execution." But the business remained for a considerable time in +suspense; nor did any specific proposal follow this communication till +the autumn of the year 1803; when he received a letter addressed to him +from the Office of the Colonial Secretary of State, desiring his +attendance without delay. On his arrival in London he had an interview +with the present Earl of Buckinghamshire, then Lord Hobart, and +Secretary of State for the Colonial department, who acquainted him with +the nature of an expedition to Africa, which was about to take place, +and in which it was proposed, that Park should bear a principal part. To +this offer he declined giving an immediate answer, requesting a short +time to deliberate and consult with his friends. He returned home for +this purpose about ten days afterwards. + +On his return to Scotland he formally consulted a few of his friends; +but, in his own mind, the point was already decided. From the time of +his interview with Lord Hobart, his determination was in fact taken. His +imagination had been indulging itself for some years past upon the +visions of discoveries which he was destined to make in the Interior of +Africa; and the object of his ambition was now within his grasp. He +hastily announced to Lord Hobart his acceptance of the proposal; +employed a few days in settling his affairs and taking leave of his +friends; and left Scotland in December, 1803, with the confident +expectation of embarking in a very short time for the coast of Africa. +But many delays were yet to take place previously to his final +departure. + +The principal details of the intended expedition had been fully +considered, and in a great measure arranged, in the Colonial department, +before the application was made to Park; and he had therefore flattered +himself that the business was in a state of considerable forwardness. +But on his arrival in London, he was much disappointed to find that the +sailing of the expedition had been postponed; and it was not till after +two months that his departure was finally appointed for the end of +February, 1804. But, unfortunately, when this period arrived, the +apprehension of important political changes, which eventually took place +by the resignation of Mr. Addington a short time afterwards, caused some +embarrassment in the measures and proceedings of the Administration. +After all was ready at Portsmouth for the embarkation, and part of the +troops destined for the service were actually on board, the expedition +was suddenly countermanded; and the question, whether it should finally +proceed to Africa or not, was reserved for the decision of Lord Camden, +who shortly afterwards succeeded to Lord Hobart in the Colonial +department. + +In consequence of this change, Park was informed at the Colonial Office, +that the expedition could not possibly sail before September; and it was +suggested to him by some person in authority, that he might employ the +interval with great advantage in improving himself in the practice of +taking astronomical observations, and in acquiring some knowledge of the +Arabic language. He was at the same time informed, that any reasonable +expence which he might incur in acquiring this instruction would be +reimbursed to him by Government. In consequence of this intimation, he +engaged a native of Mogadore, named Sidi Omback Boubi, then residing in +London, who had served as the interpreter of Elphi Bey, (the ambassador +of the Mamelukes from Cairo) to accompany him to Scotland, for the +purpose of instructing him in Arabic. They immediately left London +together, and arrived early in March at Peebles; where Park continued to +reside together with his African instructor, till about the middle of +May. He then finally quitted his house at Peebles, and took his family +to the farm at Fowlshiels, where he quietly waited the expected summons +of the Secretary of State. During all this time he employed himself with +great diligence in acquiring a familiar use of astronomical instruments, +and in the study of the Arabic language, in which he became a tolerable +proficient. + +Early in September he received a letter from the Under Secretary of +State for the Colonial department, desiring him to set off without delay +for London, and to present himself on his arrival at the Colonial +Office. He accordingly lost no time in settling his affairs; and taking +an affectionate leave of his family, wife, and children, quitted +Fowlshiels, and arrived in London towards the latter end of September, +1804. + +In the course of Park's communications with the Colonial Office, Lord +Camden had intimated a desire to be furnished with a written statement +of Park's opinions, both as to the plan of the expedition, and the +particular objects towards which he conceived that his attention ought +to be chiefly directed during the intended journey. In compliance with +this request, he had, during his leisure in the country, drawn up a +Memoir upon these subjects, which he presented at the Colonial Office +within a few days after his arrival in London. As this paper formed the +ground work of the official instructions which were afterwards given to +Park, and is in other respects interesting and important, it is here +inserted at length. + + +Memoir _delivered by_ Mungo Park, _Esq. to Lord_ CAMDEN, _on the 4th of +October_, 1804. + +"A particular account--1st. of the objects to which Mr. Park's attention +will be chiefly directed in his journey to the Interior of Africa: 2dly. +of the means necessary for accomplishing that journey; and 3dly. of the +manner in which he proposes to carry the plans of Government into +execution. + +"The objects which Mr. Park would constantly keep in view are, _the +extension of British Commerce, and the enlargement of our Geographical +Knowledge_. + +"In directing his enquiries with respect to commerce, he would propose +to himself the following subjects as worthy of particular investigation. + +"1st. The route by which merchandize could be most easily transported to +the Niger. This would be accomplished by attending to the nature of the +country, whether wooded or open; having water or not, being abundant in +provisions, or otherwise, and whether capable of furnishing the +necessary beasts of burden. + +"2dly. The safety or danger of that route. This, by considering the +general character of the natives, their government, &c.; the jealousies +that European merchants would be likely to excite, and the guard that +would be necessary for the protection of the caravan. + +"3dly. The return of merchandize. This by making out lists of such +articles as are produced in each district, and of such as are imported +from the neighbouring kingdoms. + +"4thly. The value of merchandize. This could only be done by comparing +the articles with each other; with gold as a standard, and with European +articles in exchange. + +"5thly. Profits of trade. This could be ascertained by bartering one +African article for another; an European article for an African, or an +African or European article for gold. + +"6thly. The extent to which such a commerce might be carried. This, by a +careful and cautious comparison of the above, connected with habits of +industry in the natives. + +"Mr. Park would likewise turn his attention to the general fertility of +the country, whether any part of it might be useful to Britain for +colonization, and whether any objects of Natural History, with which the +natives are at present unacquainted, might be useful to Britain as a +commercial nation. + +"Mr. Park would propose to himself the following subjects in conducting +his geographical researches. + +"1st. To ascertain the correct latitude and longitude of the different +places he visits in going to the Niger. + +"2dly. To ascertain, if possible, the termination of that river. + +"3dly. To make as accurate a survey of the river as his situation and +circumstances will admit of. + +"4thly. To give a description of the different kingdoms on or near the +hanks of the river, with an account of the manners and customs of the +inhabitants. + +"Means necessary for accomplishing the journey. +30 European soldiers. +6 European carpenters. +15 or 20 Goree Negroes, most of them artificers. +50 Asses, to be purchased at St. Jago +6 Horses or mules, to be purchased at St. Jago. + +"Articles of dress, &c. for the soldiers and Negros, exclusive of their +common clothing. + +"Each Man, +1 Musquito veil. +1 Hat with a broad brim. +2 Flannel under vests with sleeves. +2 Pair of Mosquito trowsers. +1 Pair of long leather gaiters. +1 Additional pair of shoes. +1 Great coat for sleeping, similar to what is worn by the cavalry. +Knapsack and canteen for travelling. + +"Arms and Ammunition. +6 Rifle pieces. +8 or ten blunderbusses. + +"Each Man, +1 Gun and bayonet. +1 Pair of pistols, and belt. +1 Cartridge box and belt. +Ball cartridges. +Pistol ditto. +Flints. +Gunpowder. +Small shot of different sizes. + +"Articles necessary for equipping the asses. + +"100 Strong sacking bags. +50 Canvass saddles. +Girths, buckles, halters. +6 Saddles and bridles for horses. + +"Articles necessary for building and rigging two boats on the Niger of +the following dimensions, viz. + +"40 Feet keel--8 feet beam, to draw 2-1/2 feet water. +Carpenters tools, including hatchets and long saws. +Iron work and nails. +Pitch and oakum. +Cordage rigging, and sails. +2 Boat compasses. +2 Spying-glasses for day or night. +2 Small union flags. +6 Dark lanterns. +2 Tons of Carolina rice. +Cooking utensils. +Medicines and instruments. + +"List of Merchandize for purchasing provisions and making the necessary +presents to the Kings of Woolli, Bondou, Kajaaga, Fooladoo, Bambarra, +and the Kings of the Interior. + +"Best blue India bafts, 150 yards +White ditto, 50 yards +Scarlet cloth, 200 yards +Blue ditto, 30 yards +Green ditto, 20 yards +Yellow ditto, 10 yards +Scarlet Salisbury flannel, red night caps, &c. +Amber, £150 +Coral, £50 +Mock coral, £50 +White garnets, £50 +Red garnets +Red beads +Black points, £50 +Piccadoes +Gold beads +Small black beads, £50 +White ditto +Yellow ditto +5 Double-barrelled guns. +5 Pairs of ditto pistols. +5 Swords with belts. +Small mirrors. +Knives. +Scissors. +Spectacles, +Dollars. + +"_A brief account of the manner in which Mr. Park proposes to carry the +plans of Government into execution._ + +"Mr. Park would touch at St. Jago, in order to purchase the asses and +mules, and a sufficient quantity of corn to maintain them during the +voyage to Goree and up the Gambia. At Goree he proposes receiving on +board the soldiers and Negroes formerly mentioned, and would then +proceed to Fattatenda, five hundred miles up the Gambia; where, having +first obtained permission from the King of Woolli, he would disembark +with the troops, asses, &c. After having allowed time for refreshment, +and the necessary arrangements being made, he would then proceed on his +journey to the Niger. The route he intends pursuing would lead him +through the kingdoms of Bondou, Kajaaga, Fooladoo, and Bambarra. + +"In conducting an expedition of this nature through such an extent of +country, Mr. Park is sensible that difficulties will unavoidably occur; +but he will be careful to use conciliatory measures on every occasion. +He will state to the native princes the good understanding that has +always subsisted between them and the English, and will invariably +declare that his present journey is undertaken solely for the extension +of commerce and promotion of their mutual interests. + +"On his arrival at the Niger his attention will be first directed to +gain the friendship of the King of Bambarra. For this purpose he will +send one of the Bambarra Dooties forward to Sego with a small present. +This man will inform Mansong of our arrival in his kingdom, and that it +is our intention to come down to Sego with presents to him, as soon as +he has given us permission, and we have provided the necessary means of +conveying ourselves thither. + +"In the mean time we must use every possible exertion to construct the +two boats before mentioned with the utmost possible despatch. When the +boats are completed, and every thing is ready for embarking, Mr. Park +would dispose of the beasts of burthen; giving some away in presents, +and with the others purchasing provisions. If the King of Bambarra's +answer is favourable, he would proceed immediately to Sego, and having +delivered the presents, solicit Mansong's protection as far as _Jinnie_. +Here Mr. Park's personal knowledge of the course of the Niger ends. + +"Proceeding farther, Mr. Park proposes to survey the lake Dibbie, +coasting along its southern shore. He would then proceed down the river +by Jimbala and Kabra (the port of Tombuctoo), through the kingdoms of +Houssa, Nyffe, and Kashna, &c. to the kingdom of _Wangara_, being a +direct distance of about one thousand four hundred miles from the place +of embarkation. + +"If the river should unfortunately end here, Mr. Park would feel his +situation extremely critical; he would however be guided by his distance +from the coast, by the character of the surrounding nations, and by the +existing circumstances of his situation. + +"To return by the Niger to the westward he apprehends would be +impossible; to proceed to the northward equally so; and to travel +through Abyssinia extremely dangerous. The only remaining route that +holds out any hopes of success, is that towards the _Bight of Guinea_. +If the river should take a southerly direction, Mr. Park would consider +it as his duty to follow it to its termination; and if it should happily +prove to be the river Congo, would there embark with the troops and +Negroes on board a slave vessel, and return to England from St. Helena, +or by way of the West Indies. + +"The following considerations have induced Mr. Park to think that the +Congo will be found to be the termination of the Niger. + +"1st. The total ignorance of all the inhabitants of North Africa +respecting the termination of that river. If the Niger ended any where +in North Africa, it is difficult to conceive how the inhabitants should +be so totally ignorant of it; and why they should so generally describe +it as running to the Nile, to the end of the world, and in fact to a +country with which they are unacquainted. + +"2dly. In Mr. Horneman's Journal the Niger is described as flowing +eastwards into Bornou, where it takes the name of _Zad_. The breadth of +the Zad was given him for one mile, and he was told that it flowed +towards the Egyptian Nile, through the land of the _Heathens_. +[Footnote: Proceedings of African Association. Vol. II. p. 201.] The +course here given is directly towards the Congo. _Zad_ is the name of +the Congo at its mouth, and it is the name of the Congo for at least six +hundred and fifty miles inland. + +"3dly. The river of _Dar Kulla_ mentioned by Mr. Browne [Footnote: +Browne's Travels. 2d edit. 4to. p. 354.] is generally supposed to be the +Niger; or at least to have a communication with that river. Now this is +exactly the course the Niger ought to take in order to join the Congo. + +"4thly. The quantity of water discharged into the Atlantic by the Congo +cannot be accounted for on any other known principle, but that it is the +termination of the Niger. If the Congo derived its waters entirely from +the south side of the mountains which are supposed to form the Belt of +Africa, one would naturally suppose that when the rains were confined to +the north side of the mountains, the Congo, like the other rivers of +Africa, would be greatly diminished in size; and that its waters would +become _pure_. On the contrary, the waters of the Congo are at all +seasons thick and muddy. The breadth of the river when at its _lowest_ +is _one mile_, its depth is _fifty fathoms_, and its velocity _six miles +per hour_. + +"5thly. The annual flood of the Congo commences before any rains have +fallen south of the equator, and agree correctly with the floods of the +Niger, calculating the water to have flowed from Bambarra at the rate of +three miles per hour. + +"Mr. Park is of opinion, that when your Lordship shall have duly weighed +the above reasons, you will be induced to conclude that his hopes of +returning by the Congo are not altogether fanciful; and that his +expedition, though attended with extreme danger, promises to be +productive of the utmost advantage to Great Britain. + +"Considered in a commercial point of view, it is second only to the +discovery of the Cape of Good Hope; and in a geographical point of view, +it is certainly the greatest discovery that remains to be made in this +world. + +"(Signed) MUNGO PARK." + + +The circumstance most deserving of attention in this Memoir, is the +opinion expressed respecting the course and termination of the Niger; a +geographical question of great difficulty and importance. In a treatise +written by Major Rennell expressly on the discoveries of Park, that +distinguished geographer, on comparing the various accounts of the +progress of the Niger beyond Houssa, had given a distinct opinion that +its waters had no communication either with the river Nile or the Sea; +but were spread out into a great lake in Wangara and Ghana, and were +evaporated by the heat of the sun. [Footnote: Proceedings of African +Association, vol. i. p. 533.] Park's attention had of course been much +directed to the same subject; and he had omitted no opportunity of +collecting information which might throw light on this obscure and +difficult question. During his residence in Scotland he had become +acquainted with a Mr. George Maxwell, formerly an African trader, who +had a great knowledge of the whole western coast of Africa, especially +south of the equator, and had published a chart of the river Congo. +Before Mr. Maxwell had heard any particulars of the Niger, many +circumstances had induced him to conjecture that the source of the Congo +lay considerably inland, and very far to the north. The publication of +Park's Travels confirmed him in his opinion, and led him to conclude +that the Congo and the Niger were one and the same stream. Mr. Maxwell's +reasonings appear to have produced a great impression upon Park, who +adopted his sentiments relative to the termination of the Niger in their +utmost extent, and persevered in that opinion to the end of his life. + +The _sources_ of great rivers have often been the object of popular and +even of scientific curiosity; but it is peculiar to the Niger to be +interesting on account of its _termination_. Those who recollect the +emotions which Park describes himself to have experienced during his +former journey, on the first view of that mighty river, [Footnote: +"While we were riding together, and I was anxiously looking around for +the river, one of the Negroes called out, _Geo affilli_ (see the water); +and looking forwards, I saw with infinite pleasure, the great object of +my mission, the long sought for, majestic Niger, glittering to the +morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly +_to the eastward_. I hastened to the brink and having drank of the +water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the great Ruler of all +things for having thus far crowned my endeavours with success." Park's +Travels, p. 194.] will be enabled to form some idea of the enthusiasm on +this subject which he intimates at the close of the foregoing Memoir, +and which was now become his ruling passion. Nor can we be surprised +that the question, respecting the termination of the Niger, associated +as it was, with so many personal feelings, had such entire possession of +Park's mind; since the subject itself, considered as a matter of +geographical enquiry, is one of the most interesting that can easily be +conceived. The idea of a great river, rising in the western mountains of +Africa and flowing towards the centre of that vast continent; whose +course in that direction is ascertained for a considerable distance, +beyond which information is silent, and speculation is left at large to +indulge in the wildest conjectures--has something of the _unbounded_ and +_mysterious_, which powerfully attracts curiosity and takes a strong +hold of the imagination. [Footnote: See Appendix, No. IV.] + + * * * * * + +A short time after Park had delivered his Memoir at the Colonial Office, +he had an audience of Lord Camden, who expressed his general approbation +of its contents and acquainted him with the plan of the expedition, so +far as it was then determined upon. The amount of the compensation which +he was to receive for this service, was likewise agreed upon and settled +about the same time, with a commendable liberality on the part of +Government, and entirely to Park's satisfaction; and it was also very +properly stipulated that, in the event either of his dying before the +completion of the service, or of his not being heard of within a given +period after his setting out on the journey, a certain sum should be +paid by Government as a provision for his wife and family. + +But before all the details of the plan were finally determined upon, +Park was desired by Lord Camden, to consult Major Rennell, and obtain +his opinion both with regard to the scheme and objects of the +expedition, and Park's own sentiments relative to the Niger, as stated +in his Memoir. For this purpose he went to Brighthelmston, where Major +Rennell then was, and remained with him several days; during which time, +the subjects proposed by Lord Camden were repeatedly discussed between +them. With respect to the supposition relative to the termination of the +Niger, Major Rennell was unconvinced by Park's reasonings, and declared +his adherence to the opinion he had formerly expressed with regard to +the course of that river. As to the plan of the intended expedition, he +was so much struck with the difficulties and dangers likely to attend +its execution, that he earnestly dissuaded Park from engaging in so +hazardous an enterprize. His arguments, urged with all the warmth and +sincerity of friendship, appear to have made a great impression upon +Park; and he took leave of Major Rennell with an apparent determination +to relinquish the undertaking. But this conviction was little more than +momentary, and ceased almost as soon as the influence and authority from +which it proceeded were withdrawn. On Park's return to London, his +enthusiasm revived; and all doubts and difficulties were at an end. + +The doubts expressed by Major Rennell were of course, communicated by +Park to the Secretary of State; but, as he accompanied the communication +with his own answers and remarks, the objections were not deemed of +sufficient weight to produce any material change in the intended +arrangements. + +It must be observed however with regard to the opinions both of Major +Rennell and other intelligent persons among Park's friends, who +disapproved of the expedition, that their objections appear for the most +part to have been too general and indiscriminate; proceeding perhaps too +much upon vague and indefinite ideas of the dangers which experience had +shewn to be incidental to such a journey, and being therefore equally +conclusive against _any_ new attempt to explore the interior of Africa. +To these objections it may be sufficient to oppose the authority of Sir +Joseph Banks, who was of course much consulted by Park, and also by the +Secretary of State; and whose opinion on this subject appears to have +been equally temperate and judicious. Without in the least extenuating +the dangers of the intended expedition, which he regarded as one of the +most hazardous ever undertaken, he still thought that the dangers were +not greater than might reasonably be encountered for the sake of very +important objects; justly observing that it was only from similar risks +of human life that great geographical discoveries were in general to be +expected. The correctness of his opinion was sufficiently shewn by the +event; since it will hereafter appear that the failure of the +undertaking was owing rather to accidental circumstances than to any +defect in the original plan of the expedition itself. + +After due consideration, it was at length finally determined that the +expedition should consist of Park himself, his brother in law Mr. +Alexander Anderson, who was to be next to Park in authority, and Mr. +George Scott, who was to act as a draftsman; together with a few boat +builders and artificers. They were not to be accompanied by any troops +from England; but were to be joined at Goree by a certain number of +soldiers of the African corps stationed in that garrison, who might be +disposed to volunteer for the service. + +Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott, the associates of Park in this expedition, +were intelligent and excellent young men; the former a surgeon of +several years' experience, the latter an artist of very promising +talents. They were both of them friends and fellow countrymen of Park +(being natives of the county of Selkirk), and inspired by him with a +great ardour for the undertaking in which they were about to engage. + +The expedition being thus limited as to its nature and objects, and +nothing more being necessary than to procure a proper assortment of +stores and commercial articles, and provide the means of conveying the +party with their small cargo to the coast of Africa; it was to be +expected that the mission might be sent out immediately, or with very +little delay. This indeed was an object of great importance, considering +the advanced time of the year; it being obvious that if the expedition +should be detained for any considerable time, it might have the effect +of postponing the journey into the interior to the period of the rainy +season, and thus perhaps, of rendering the whole plan abortive. Fully +aware of this danger, Park was anxious and earnest in his endeavours to +obtain the necessary orders from the several public departments. But, +partly from unforeseen circumstances, and partly from official forms and +the pressure of business deemed of greater importance, he was destined +to experience a long succession of delays; which, though certainly +unintentional, and perhaps in some degree unavoidable, were ultimately +productive of very unfortunate results. Nor was it till after waiting +two months, (a period of great uneasiness and mortification) that he +received his official instructions: after which nearly another month +elapsed before he could set sail from England. + +The instructions given to Park were communicated to him in a Letter +addressed to him by the Secretary of State, in the following terms. + + +_Downing-street, 2d January, 1805._ + +Sir, + +"It being judged expedient that a small expedition should be sent into +the interior of Africa, with a view to discover and ascertain whether +any, and what commercial intercourse can be opened therein for the +mutual benefit of the natives and of His Majesty's subjects, I am +commanded by the King to acquaint you, that on account of the knowledge +you have acquired of the nations of Africa, and from the indefatigable +exertions and perseverance you displayed in your travels among them, His +Majesty has selected you for conducting this undertaking. + +"For better enabling you to execute this service His Majesty has granted +you the brevet commission of a captain in Africa, and has also granted a +similar commission of lieutenant to Mr. Alexander Anderson, whom you +have recommended as a proper person to accompany you. Mr. Scott has also +been selected to attend you as draftsman. You are hereby empowered to +enlist with you for this expedition any number you think proper of the +garrison at Goree, not exceeding forty-five, which the commandant of +that Island will be ordered to place under your command, giving them +such bounties or encouragement, as may be necessary to induce them +cheerfully to join with you on the expedition. + +"And you are hereby authorised to engage by purchase or otherwise, such +a number of black artificers at Goree as you shall judge necessary for +the objects you have in view. + +"You are to be conveyed to Goree in a transport convoyed by His +Majesty's sloop Eugenie, which will be directed to proceed with you in +the first instance to St. Jago, in order that you may there purchase +fifty asses for carrying your baggage. + +"When you shall have prepared whatever may be necessary for securing the +objects of the expedition at Goree, you are to proceed up the river +Gambia; and thence crossing over to the Senegal to march by such route +as you shall find most eligible, to the banks of the Niger. + +"The great object of your journey will be to pursue the course of this +river to the utmost possible distance to which it can be traced; to +establish communication and intercourse with the different nations on +the banks; to obtain all the local knowledge in your power respecting +them; and to ascertain the various points stated in the Memoir which you +delivered to me on the 4th of October last. + +"And you will be then at liberty to pursue your route homewards by any +line you shall think most secure, either by taking a new direction +through the Interior towards the Atlantic, or by marching upon Cairo by +taking the route leading to Tripoli. + +"You are hereby empowered to draw for any sum that you may be in want +of, not exceeding £5000. upon the Lords of His Majesty's Treasury, or +upon such mercantile banking-house in London as you may fix upon. + + "I am, &c. + + "CAMDEN. + +"_To Mungo Park, Esq. +&c. &c. &c._" + + +The preparations for the expedition being now entirely completed, Park, +together with Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott, proceeded to Portsmouth, where +they were joined by four or five artificers, from the dock-yards +appointed for the service; and after waiting some time for a wind, they +at last set sail in the Crescent transport, on the 30th of January, +1805, and arrived at Port Praya Bay in the Cape Verd Islands about the +8th of March. The transactions of Park from the time of his embarkation +in England to his departure from Kayee on the Gambia for the Interior of +Africa (a period of about seven weeks) will be best described by the +following letters, and extracts selected from his correspondence. + + +_To Mr. Dickson_ + +_Port Praya Bay, St. Jago, March 13, 1805._ + +"We have had a very tedious passage to this place, having been pestered +with contrary winds, strong gales, and French privateers. We have all of +us kept our health remarkably well, considering the very great change of +climate. Mr. Anderson has the rheumatism in his knee, but is getting +better. Mr. Scott is off this morning for the Interior of the Island, to +take sketches; and as soon as I have finished this letter I am going on +shore to finish my purchase of asses. I bought all the corn, &c. last +night, and twenty-four asses, and I shall purchase thirty-two more to +day; so you see we shall not be detained here. We shall have taken in +all the water today, and the first division of the asses will come on +board to-morrow. We expect to sail for Goree on Saturday or Sunday. + +"I have been so much employed that I have had no time as yet to look +after plants; indeed this seems a very unfavourable season of the year +for natural history, the whole country being quite dry and withered. I +have collected some observations on the present state of the Cape Verd +Islands, which I will send home by the sloop of war. + +"If Sir Joseph enquires after me, tell him that I am going on as well as +I could wish; and if I have as little trouble at Goree as I am likely to +have here, I hope to be able to date a letter from the Niger by the 4th +of June." + + +_To Mrs. Park._ + +_Goree, 4th April, 1805._ + +"I have just now learnt that an American ship sails from this place for +England in a few days; and I readily embrace the opportunity of sending +a letter to my dearest wife. We have all of us kept our health very well +ever since our departure from England. Alexander had a touch of the +rheumatism at St. Jago, but is now quite recovered; he danced several +country dances at the ball last night. George Scott is also in good +health and spirits. I wrote to you from St. Jago, which letter I hope +you received. We left that place on the 21st of March, and arrived here +with the asses on the 28th. Almost every soldier in the Garrison, +volunteered to go with me; and with the Governor's assistance I have +chosen a guard of the best men in the place. So lightly do the people +here think of the danger attending the undertaking, that I have been +under the necessity of refusing several military and naval officers who +volunteered to accompany me. We shall sail for Gambia on Friday or +Saturday. I am happy to learn that Karfa, my old friend, is at present +at Jonkakonda; and I am in hopes we shall be able to hire him to go with +us. + +"We have as yet been extremely fortunate, and have got our business both +at St. Jago and this place finished with great success: and I have +hopes, almost to certainty, that Providence will so dispose the tempers +and passions of the inhabitants of this quarter of the world, that we +shall be enabled to _slide through_ much more smoothly than you expect. + +"I need not tell you how often I think about you; your own feelings will +enable you to judge of that. The hopes of spending the remainder of my +life with my wife and children will make every thing seem easy; and you +may be sure I will not rashly risk my life, when I know that your +happiness, and the welfare of my young ones depend so much upon it. I +hope my Mother does not torment herself with unnecessary fears about me. +I sometimes fancy how you and she will be meeting misfortune half way, +and placing me in many distressing situations. I have as yet experienced +nothing but success, and I hope that six months more will end the whole +as I wish." + +"P.S. We have taken a ride this morning about twelve miles into the +country. Alexander is much pleased with it; the heat is moderate, and +the country healthy at present." + + +_To Edward Cooke, Esq. Under Secretary of State for the Colonial +Department._ + +_Jillifree, River Gambia, +April 9th, 1805._ + +"Sir, + +"It is with great pleasure that I embrace this opportunity of sending +you a general account of our proceedings since leaving England. + +"We had a very tedious passage to the Cape Verd Islands, being detained +by storms and contrary winds in the Bay of Biscay, so that we did not +reach St. Jago till the 8th of March. I immediately set about purchasing +the asses, corn, hay, &c. and succeeded so well that on the 18th I had +embarked forty-four asses with plenty of corn and hay. The master of the +transport declared that he could not receive any more consistently with +the safety of the vessel. We sailed for Goree on the 21st. While we were +getting under way, six English ships of the line, one of them a three +decker, came into the Bay. They did not hail us; one of them had an +Admiral's blue flag at the mizen. + +"We made the coast of Africa on the 25th, and anchored in Goree roads on +the morning of the 28th. I immediately went on shore, and having +delivered the dispatches to Major Lloyd, consulted with him respecting +the proper encouragement to be offered to the troops. We agreed that +nothing would be so great an inducement as double pay during the +journey, and a discharge on their return. A Garrison order to this +effect was accordingly made out; and in the course of a few days almost +every soldier in the Garrison had volunteered his services. Lieutenant +Martyn of the Royal Artillery Corps having likewise volunteered, I +thought it would be of consequence to have an officer who was acquainted +with the men, and who could assist me in choosing such as were best able +to stand fatigue. I therefore accepted his services on the conditions +mentioned in Lord Camden's letter. Captain Shortland, of the Squirrel +Frigate, has allowed two of his best seamen to go with me as volunteers +in order to assist in rigging and navigating our _Nigritian Men of War_. +I have given them the same encouragement as the soldiers, and have had +the four carpenters whom I brought from England attested, in order to +put the whole under the same discipline and regulations. + +"On the morning of the 6th of April we embarked the soldiers, in number +thirty-five men. They jumped into the boats in the highest spirits, and +bade adieu to Goree with repeated huzzas. I believe that every man in +the Garrison would have embarked with great cheerfulness; but no +inducement could prevail on a single Negro to accompany me. I must +therefore trust to the Gambia for interpreters, and I expect to be able +to hire or purchase three or four in going up the river. I will send a +particular account of all money matters by the return of the Transport." + +MUNGO PARK. + + +_To Sir Joseph Banks._ + +_Kayee, River Gambia, +April 26th, 1805._ + +"My Dear Friend, + +"I know that you will be pleased to hear that I am in good health, and +going forwards with as much success as I could reasonably expect. In my +letter to Lord Camden, I have given a short statement of my transactions +since I left England, which I have requested his Lordship to shew to +you. By that you will see that I have had but little time to attend to +objects of natural history; but lest you should think that I have +neglected this pursuit entirely, I have sent a few specimens in a trunk, +which I hope will come safe; the most remarkable are, + +"1st. The _Fang jani_, or self-burning tree of Gambia. This grows +plentifully on the banks of the Gambia betwixt Yanimaroo and Kayee, and +no where else. It is certainly burnt by some internal process, of which +I am ignorant. Few of the natives have seen it actually burning; but +every person who has sailed up the Gambia will allow that these bushes +are burnt in places where no human being could set them on fire, and +where the grass around them was not burnt. I have sent you a burnt +stump, two tops, and a fruit. + +"2d. The _Kino_, (so called by the natives), a branch and fruit of the +original gum kino tree and a paper of the real gum; none of this gum is +at present exported from Gambia, though it might be collected in some +quantity. + +"3d. The _Tribo_, a root with which the natives dye their leather of a +yellow colour. It is not in flower at this season. [Footnote: See +Appendix, No. V.] + +"The wars which at present prevail in Bondou and Kasson, have prevented +the merchants from bringing down the _Shea_ butter; otherwise I would +have sent you a pot of it. I have sent you as a specimen of African +manufactures, a Mandingo cloth dyed from the _leaves_ of the indigo, +half a dozen small pots, and some Lefa's or calabash covers. I regret +that I have not been able to procure any Bondou _Frankincense_.--Give my +compliments to Major Rennell, and tell him that I hope to be able to +correct my former errors. The course of the Gambia is certainly not so +long as is laid down in the charts. The watch goes so correctly that I +will measure Africa by feet and inches. + +"In case any unfavourable reports should be raised respecting the +termination of our journey, I request that you will endeavour as much as +you can to prevent them from finding their way into the newspapers, or +by any other manner reaching the ears of my dear wife and mother." + + +_To Mrs. Park._ + +_Kayee, River Gambia, April 26, 1805._ + +"I have been busy these three days in making preparations for our +journey, and I feel rather uneasy when I think that I can receive no +letters from you till I return to England; but you may depend on this, +that I will avail myself of every opportunity of writing to you, though +from the very nature of the undertaking these opportunities will be but +few. We set off for the Interior tomorrow morning; and I assure you, +that whatever the issue of the present journey may be, every thing looks +favourable. We have been successful thus far, beyond my highest +expectations. + +"The natives instead of being frightened at us, look on us as their best +friends, and the kings have not only granted us protection, but sent +people to go before us. The soldiers are in the highest spirits; and as +many of them (like me) have left a wife and family in England, they are +happy to embrace this opportunity of returning. They never think about +difficulties; and I am confident, if there was occasion for it, that +they would defeat any number of Negroes that might come against us; but +of this we have not the most distant expectation. The King of Kataba +(the most powerful King in Gambia) visited us on board the Crescent on +the 20th and 21st; he has furnished us with a messenger to conduct us +safely to the King of Woolli. + +"I expect to have an opportunity of writing to you from Konkodoo or +Bammakoo, by some of the slave traders; but as they travel very slowly, +I may probably have returned to the coast before any of my letters have +reached Goree; at any rate, you need not be surprised if you should not +hear from me for some months; nay, so uncertain is the communication +between Africa and England, that perhaps the next news you may hear, may +be my arrival in the latter, which I still think will be in the month of +December. If we have to go round by the West Indies, it will take us two +months more; but as Government has given me an unlimited credit, if a +vessel is coming direct, I shall of course take a passage in her. I have +enjoyed excellent health, and have great hopes to bring this expedition +to a happy conclusion. In five weeks from the date of this letter the +worst part of the journey will be over. Kiss all my dear children for +me, and let them know that their father loves them." + + +In a letter to Mr. Dickson dated Kayee, April 26th, 1805, the day before +his embarkation, Park writes as follows; + +"Every thing, at present, looks as favourable as I could wish, and if +all things go well, this day six weeks I expect to drink all your +healths in the water of the Niger. The soldiers are in good health and +spirits. They are the most _dashing_ men I ever saw; and if they +preserve their health, we may keep ourselves perfectly secure from any +hostile attempt on the part of the natives. I have little doubt but that +I shall be able with presents and fair words to pass through the country +to the Niger; and if once we are fairly afloat, _the day is won_.--Give +my kind regards to Sir Joseph and Mr. Greville; and if they should think +that I have paid too little attention to natural objects, you may +mention that I had forty men and forty-two asses to look after, besides +the constant trouble of packing and weighing bundles, palavering with +the Negroes, and laying plans for our future success. I never was so +busy in my life." + +On reading this correspondence it is impossible not to be struck with +the satisfaction expressed by Park, and the confidence with which he +appears to have looked forward to a favourable termination of his +journey. Yet in reality nothing could be much less promising than his +actual situation and prospects at the time of writing these letters. + +The detachment of the Royal African Corps, which was to escort the +expedition, consisted of a Lieutenant and thirty-five privates. It was +not to be expected that troops of a very superior quality could be +furnished from a regiment which had been serving for any considerable +time at a tropical station, such as Goree. But there is too much reason +to believe that the men selected on the present occasion, +notwithstanding the favourable opinion of them expressed by Park, and +although they were the best that the Garrison could supply, were below +the ordinary standard even of troops of this description; and that they +were extremely deficient both in constitutional strength and vigour, and +in those habits of sobriety, steadiness and good discipline which such a +service peculiarly required. + +But besides the indifferent quality of the troops, there was another and +more serious cause of alarm, from the unfavourable period at which, +owing to a series of unforeseen delays, Park found himself obliged to +enter on this expedition. This he was about to do, not actually during +the rainy season; but with a great probability of being overtaken by it +in the course of his journey; and with a positive certainty of +encountering in the mean time, not only the great tropical heats, but +also the _tornadoes_, or hurricanes, which always precede and follow the +rainy season. These hurricanes, of which no idea can be formed from the +experience of our temperate climates, occur more frequently, and with +greater violence as the rainy period approaches; and are attended with +considerable inconvenience, and occasionally with danger, to caravans +travelling at that season. + +Whatever might be the opinion of Park as to the quality of his troops, +of which he appears to have formed a very erroneous estimate, he must at +least have been fully aware of the disadvantage arising from the near +approach of the great tropical rains. But his situation was critical; +and he had only a choice of difficulties. He might either attempt (what +he might perhaps consider as being just _possible_) to reach the Niger +before the rainy season should be completely set in; or he might +postpone his journey till the return of the proper season for +travelling, which would be in November or December following. The event +has shewn that he would have acted more wisely in deferring the +expedition. But the motives which might lead him to a contrary +determination, were obvious and powerful; and will be found, on the +whole, sufficient for the justification of his conduct. He must +naturally have considered that the postponement of the expedition _for +seven months_, besides being in the greatest degree irksome both to +himself and the companions of his journey, would occasion a great +additional expense, and disappoint the expectations of Government; and +he might perhaps entertain doubts, since the case was not provided for +by his official instructions, whether he should altogether escape +censure, if he should postpone his journey for so long a period, under +any circumstances much short of a positive and undoubted necessity. + +In this difficult situation, he adopted that alternative which was most +congenial to his character and feelings; and having once formed this +resolution, he adhered to it with tranquillity and firmness; dismissing +from his own mind all doubts and apprehensions, or at least effectually +concealing them, from the companions of his journey, and from his +friends and correspondents in England. + + * * * * * + +For the particulars of this second expedition, the reader must be +referred to the Journal now published, which commences from this period. +But in order to give a general view of the extent of Park's labours, it +may be useful on this, as on the former occasion, to note the more +important dates, and some of the principal circumstances of the journey. + +The persons composing the expedition, being assembled at Kayee, a small +town on the Gambia a little below Pisania, Park engaged a Mandingo +priest, named Isaaco, who was also a travelling merchant and much +accustomed to long inland journies, to serve as the guide to his +caravan. On the 27th of April 1805, he took his departure from Kayee, +and arrived in two days at Pisania, from whence he had set out for the +interior of Africa nearly ten years before. Some of the practical +difficulties of the march were apparent during this short journey: and +he found it necessary to stop at Pisania six days (a delay which must +have been highly inconvenient), to purchase additional beasts of burden, +and make other arrangements for the expedition. + +He quitted Kayee on the 4th of May, and arrived on the 11th at Madina, +the capital of the kingdom of Woolli. The effects of the season had +already become apparent; two of the soldiers having fallen ill of the +dysentery on the 8th. On the 15th he arrived on the banks of the Gambia; +and about this time lost one of his soldiers, by an epilepsy. + +On the 26th, the caravan experienced a singular accident (almost +unintelligible to an European) from the attack of a large swarm of bees; +in consequence of which, besides that many of the people were most +severely stung, seven of their beasts of burden perished or were lost; +and owing to an accidental fire which was kindled in the confusion, the +whole baggage was near being burnt. For half an hour it seemed as if the +bees had put an end to the expedition. [Footnote: A similar accident +from an attack of bees, though much less serious than the present, was +witnessed by Park in his journey with the caravan of slaves from Kamalia +to the Gambia, and is described in his Travels, p. 331.] + +On the 28th of May, Park arrived at Badoo, where he mentions having had +an opportunity of sending two letters to England by way of the Gambia. +These letters were addressed to Sir Joseph Banks and Mrs. Park; and are +as follows. + + +_To Sir Joseph Banks._ + +_Badoo, near Tambacunda, May 28th, 1805._ + +"A Slatee is going from this place in a few hours for the Gambia, and I +have hired him to stop his asses till I write a few lines. We have had +as prosperous an expedition thus far, as I could have expected; a short +abridgement of our journey will serve to shew where we are. + +[Here follow the names of the places where the caravan rested each +night; the particulars of which are fully detailed in the Journal.] + +"We are going this evening to Tambacunda. You must not imagine, my dear +friend, from this hasty sketch that I have neglected astronomical +observations; I have observed the latitude every two or three days, and +have observed three eclipses of Jupiter's Satellites, which settle the +longitude, by the help of the watch, to the nearest mile. I saw plenty +of Shea trees yesterday for the first time since my return to Africa, +the fruit being not yet ripe. The course of the Gambia is laid down on +my chart too much to the south; I have ascertained nearly its whole +course. I find that my former journeys on foot were underrated; some of +them surprise myself, when I trace the same road on horseback. +Sibikillin is 36' East of where it is laid down on the chart. I propose +sending an abridged account of my day's transactions from Baniserile, to +Lord Camden; but I request that nothing may be published till I return +to England. A short time will decide the matter. + +"I expect to reach the Niger on the 27th of June. You must excuse this +hasty scrawl, as it is only meant to let you know that I am still alive +and going forward in my journey. Please to let Mrs. Dickson know that I +am well." + + +_To Mrs. Park,_ + +_Badoo, 29th May, 1805._ + +"I am happy to inform you that we are half through our journey without +the smallest accident or unpleasant circumstance. We all of us keep our +health, and are on the most friendly terms with the natives. I have seen +many of my old acquaintances, and am every where well received. By the +27th of June we expect to have finished all our travels by land; and +when we have once got afloat on the river, we shall conclude that we are +embarking for England. I have never had the smallest sickness; and +Alexander is quite free from all his stomach complaints. + +"The bearer of this to the Gambia is waiting with his asses for a few +minutes only; you will therefore inform all friends that we are well and +going on prosperously. I see no reason to think that our stay in the +Interior will be longer than I first mentioned. + +"We carry our own victuals with us, and live very well; in fact we have +only had a pleasant journey, and yet this is what we thought would be +the worst part of it. + +"I will indulge the hope that my wife, children, and all friends are +well. I am in great hopes of finishing this journey with credit in a few +months; and then with what joy shall I turn my face towards home! The +Slatee is impatient for the letter; and I have only time to subscribe +myself, &c." + + +Notwithstanding these letters, it is evident from Park's Journal that +his situation was now very critical. The tornadoes had begun to be +frequent; and a few days afterwards it became quite apparent that the +rainy season was seriously setting in, before the journey to the Niger +was more than half completed. The effect produced on the health of the +soldiers by a violent rain on the 10th of June, was almost +instantaneous; twelve of them at once were dangerously ill, and from +this time the great mortality commenced, which was ultimately fatal to +the expedition. + +At Shrondo, in the kingdom of Dentila, where the caravan shortly +afterwards arrived, there are considerable gold mines; and the journal +contains a minute and interesting description both of the manner of +collecting the metal, and of the country in which it is found. + +After quitting Shrondo, Park mentions that on the 12th of June, in +consequence of a very sudden tornado, they were forced to carry their +bundles into the huts of the natives, being the first time that the +caravan had entered a town since leaving the Gambia. Considering the +_climate_ and season, this slight circumstance is alone a sufficient +proof of the hardships which must have been sustained by Europeans +during such a journey. + +At Dindikoo beyond Shrondo, Park was much struck with the beauty and +magnificence of that mountainous tract of country, as well as with the +degree in which it was cultivated and the comparatively happy condition +of the inhabitants. Proceeding a little farther, he quitted the track he +had hitherto followed, by which he had formerly returned from Kamalia to +the Gambia; and directed his course towards the north-east, with a view +probably of avoiding the Jallonka Wilderness. But the difficulties of +travelling were now become extreme; partly from the nature of the +country, but principally from the increasing prevalence of the disease +produced by the continued rains. + +On the 4th of July he was near losing Isaaco, his guide; who in crossing +a river was twice attacked by a crocodile, and saved himself by +extraordinary presence of mind, though not without some very severe +wounds. This accident detained the caravan several days, and added to +the numerous delays which had so unfortunately impeded the expedition. + +Several of the soldiers had died during the course of the journey; and +on the 6th of July the whole number of persons composing the caravan +(except one) were either actually sick, or in a state of great debility. +Yet he still had considerable difficulties to encounter, in traversing a +country, where he was obliged to be constantly on the watch against the +depredations of the inhabitants, and occasionally, the attacks of wild +beasts. Under such circumstances it is not wonderful that the few +soldiers, not disabled by sickness, fell back; and it was with great +difficulty that any of them could be prevailed on to continue their +march. After a series of dangers and sufferings, such as have been +experienced by few travellers, he at length reached the Niger (at +Bambakoo, where the river begins to be navigable) on the 19th of August +1805. + +This was more than seven weeks beyond the time, upon which he had +calculated when he quitted the Gambia; and the effects of this +protracted march, which had carried him far into the rainy season, were +unfortunately but too apparent. Of the Europeans who composed the +expedition, consisting of about forty at the time of quitting the +Gambia, there were now only eleven survivors. Of these the principal +persons, besides Park, namely Mr. Anderson, Mr. Scott, and Lieutenant +Martyn, were all more or less affected by the disease; the two former +very seriously, and Mr. Scott, in particular, to so great a degree that +he had been obliged to remain behind, and died shortly afterwards +without reaching the Niger. + +It was fortunate that Park's health had hitherto been very slightly +affected, since the whole burden of the expedition evidently rested upon +him. He not only directed all the great movements of the caravan, but +superintended its minutest details, and was foremost on all occasions +requiring physical strength and great personal exertions. In these +arduous services both of body and mind, Mr. Anderson and his other +associates, who might have been expected to share in his labours, were +incapable of rendering him any useful assistance; and by their continued +ill health, contributed in no small degree to the anxiety and +embarrassments attending the expedition. + +Being thus arrived at the Niger, he embarked upon that river on the 21st +of August, and the following day reached Marraboo; from whence he +shortly afterwards dispatched Isaaco to Sego, the capital of Bambarra, +to negociate with Mansong the sovereign, for a free passage through his +dominions and for such other facilities as might enable him to prosecute +his journey into the interior. He remained at Marraboo, waiting Isaaco's +return; and in the mean time was seized with the dysentery, which had +been fatal to so many of his followers; but saved himself by a bold and +vigorous course of medicine, which, aided by the great strength of his +constitution, restored him to health very speedily. + +After much negociation and many difficulties with Mansong's ministers, +he was at first permitted to go to Samee in the neighbourhood of Sego, +and afterwards to Sansanding; in order to build a vessel and make +preparations for his voyage down the Niger. In this negociation, which +is fully detailed in the Journal, Park appears to much advantage. His +speech to Mansong's messengers, explaining the purpose and objects of +his expedition into Africa, is distinguished by great propriety and good +sense; and affords a very favourable specimen of his talents for such +transactions. [Footnote: Journal, p. 151.] + +It may be recollected that when Park arrived at Sego during his former +journey, Mansong sent him a present of five thousand cowries, but +refused to admit him into his presence, and gave directions that he +should immediately depart from that city. [Footnote: Park's Travels, p. +199.] This conduct in a sovereign apparently tolerant and liberal, was +very reasonably attributed by Park to an apprehension on the part of +Mansong, that he should be unable to protect him against the inveterate +malice of his Moorish subjects. There is every reason to think that +Mansong, on the present occasion, was actuated by similar feelings; +since he neither saw Park, nor expressed any desire to see him; and his +whole conduct, both during the negociation and afterwards, indicated +great coldness and reserve. It appears also that many rumours +unfavourable to the mission were industriously circulated; and that +great jealousies, stimulated both by religious bigotry and the +apprehension of commercial rivalship, were excited against Park among +the Moorish inhabitants of Sego and Sansanding. + +The anxiety and suspense produced in Park's mind by these rumours, were +in some degree removed by the arrival of Bookari, the singing man or +_bard_ of Mansong, with six canoes, being commissioned to attend him to +the neighbourhood of Sego. Under this escort, he embarked at Marraboo on +the 13th of September; and notwithstanding the unsatisfactory state of +his affairs, his mind was sufficiently at ease to receive great delight +from this short voyage down the Niger. "Nothing," he says, "can be more +beautiful than the views of this immense river; sometimes as smooth as a +mirror; at other times ruffled by a gentle breeze; but at all times +wafting us along at the rate of six or seven miles an hour." [Footnote: +Journal, p. 148] After the indifference shewn towards him by Mansong, he +thought it not prudent to visit Sego; but went on to Sansanding, a place +a little eastwards of Sego on the banks of the Niger, containing about +ten thousand inhabitants. Here Park remained the greater part of two +months, and traded to a considerable extent; and as this was the first +African town distant from the coast, at which he had an opportunity of +residing, he had the means of obtaining much information; which if it +could be communicated to the public, would probably form an important +addition to our knowledge of the internal state of Africa. + +Fortunately the information thus acquired has not been entirely lost to +the world; a few particulars, the fruit of his active and intelligent +curiosity, still remain. The view which Park has given of the trade and +population of Sansanding, must be considered as the most original and +valuable part of his Journal. The information which he has collected +concerning _prices_, is new in its kind, and in several points of view, +highly curious and important. But there are other circumstances, which +must strike every intelligent reader as being more peculiarly +interesting and instructive; the existence of regular markets; the +division of labour, appearing from the establishment of distinct +branches of trade; the variety of articles exposed to sale; and the +great extent of commercial transactions. These facts imply that industry +is protected, and property in a certain degree secure; and fully confirm +Park's former statements with regard to the comparative civilization and +improvement of the _interior_ of Africa. + +One of Park's principal objects at Sansanding was to provide a proper +vessel for his farther navigation down the Niger; and it was with great +difficulty that he procured two indifferent and decayed canoes; from +which _by the labour of his own hands_, with some assistance from one of +the surviving soldiers, he constructed a flat-bottomed vessel, to which +he gave the magnificent title of His Majesty's schooner the Joliba. + +Previously to this time, Park had received intelligence of the death of +Mr. Scott, whom he had been obliged to leave at Koomikoomi, on his march +towards the Niger; and now whilst he was employed in building his +vessel, he had to lament the loss of his friend Mr. Anderson, who died +on the 28th of October, after a lingering illness of four months. He +speaks of this severe blow in his Journal very shortly, but in a strain +of natural eloquence, flowing evidently from the heart, "No event," he +says, "during the journey, ever threw the smallest gloom over his mind +till he laid Mr. Anderson in the grave; he then felt himself as if left +a second time lonely and friendless amidst the wilds of Africa." +[Footnote: Journal, p. 163.] + +Fancy can hardly picture a situation more perilous than that of Park at +this time, nor an enterprise more utterly hopeless than that which he +was now to undertake. Of the Europeans who had accompanied him from the +Gambia, Lieutenant Martyn and three soldiers (one of them in a state of +mental derangement) were all who now survived. He was about to embark on +a vast and unknown river, which might possibly terminate in some great +lake or inland sea, at an immense distance from the coast; but which he +hoped and believed would conduct him to the shores of the Atlantic, +after a course of considerably more than three thousand miles, through +the midst of savage nations, and probably also after a long succession +of rapids, lakes, and cataracts. This voyage, one of the most formidable +ever attempted, was to be undertaken in a crazy and ill appointed +vessel, manned by a few Negroes and four Europeans! + +On the 16th of November the schooner being completed, and every +preparation made for the voyage, Park put the finishing hand to his +Journal; and in the course of the succeeding days previous to the +embarkation, which appears to have taken place on the 19th, he wrote +letters to his father-in-law, Mr. Anderson, Sir Joseph Banks, Lord +Camden, and Mrs. Park. Those addressed to the three latter, being the +most interesting, are here inserted at length, and cannot be read +without considerable interest. They all of them bear strong traces of +that deliberate courage without effort or ostentation, which +distinguished his whole conduct; and his letter to Lord Camden breathes +a generous spirit of self-devotion, highly expressive of the character +and feelings of the writer. + + +_To Sir Joseph Banks._ + +_Sansanding, November 16, 1805._ + +"MY DEAR FRIEND, + +"I should be wanting in gratitude, if I did not avail myself of every +opportunity of informing you how I have succeeded in this enterprise. I +have sent an account of each day's proceeding to Lord Camden, and have +requested his Lordship to send it to you for your perusal. + +"With respect to my future views, it is my intention to keep the middle +of the river, and make the best use I can of winds and currents till I +reach the termination of this mysterious stream. I have hired a guide to +go with me to _Kashna_; he is a native of Kasson, but one of the +greatest travellers in this part of Africa, having visited _Miniana, +Kong, Baedoo, Gotto, and Cape Corse Castle_ to the South, and +_Tombuctoo, Houssa, Nyffe, Kashna, and Bornou_ towards the East. He says +that the Niger, after it passes Kashna, runs directly to the right hand, +or the South; he never heard of any person who had seen its termination; +and is certain that it does not end any where in the vicinity of Kashna +or Bornou, having resided some time in both these kingdoms. + +"He says our voyage to Kashna will occupy two months; that we touch on +the Moors no where but at Tombuctoo; the north bank of the river in all +other places being inhabited by a race of people resembling the Moors in +colour, called _Surka, Mahinga, and Tuarick_, according to the different +kingdoms they inhabit. I have as yet had only two conversations with my +guide, and they were chiefly occupied in adjusting money matters; but I +have no doubt that I shall find him a very useful fellow traveller. + +"I have purchased some fresh _Shea nuts_, which I intend taking with me +to the West Indies, as we shall probably have to go there on our way +home. I expect that we shall reach the sea in three months from this; +and if we are lucky enough to find a vessel, we shall lose no time on +the coast. But at all events you will probably hear from me; as I mean +to write from Kashna by my guide, and endeavour to hire some of the +merchants to carry a letter to the north from that place. With best +wishes for your health and prosperity I am, &c." + +"P. S. Have the goodness to remember me most kindly to my friend Major +Rennell." + + +_To the Earl Camden, One of His Majesty's Principal Secretaries of +State, &c. &c. &c._ + +_On board of H. M. Schooner Joliba, +at anchor off Sansanding, +November 17, 1805._ + +"MY LORD, + +"I have herewith sent you an account of each day's proceedings since we +left _Kayee_. Many of the incidents related are in themselves extremely +trifling; but are intended to recall to my recollection (if it pleases +God to restore me again to my dear native land) other particulars +illustrative of the manners and customs of the natives, which would have +swelled this bulky communication to a most unreasonable size. + +"Your Lordship will recollect that I always spoke of the rainy season +with horror, as being extremely fatal to Europeans; and our journey from +the Gambia to the Niger will furnish a melancholy proof of it. + +"We had no contest whatever with the natives, nor was any one of us +killed by wild animals or any other accidents; and yet I am sorry to say +that of forty-four Europeans who left the Gambia in perfect health, five +only are at present alive, viz. three soldiers (one deranged in his +mind) Lieutenant Martyn, and myself. + +"From this account I am afraid that your Lordship will be apt to +consider matters as in a very hopeless state; but I assure you I am far +from desponding. With the assistance of one of the soldiers I have +changed a large canoe into a tolerably good schooner, on board of which +I this day hoisted the British flag, and shall set sail to the east with +the fixed resolution to discover the termination of the Niger or perish +in the attempt. I have heard nothing that I can depend on respecting the +remote course of this mighty stream; but I am more and more inclined to +think that it can end no where but in the sea. + +"My dear friend Mr. Anderson and likewise Mr. Scott are both dead; but +though all the Europeans who are with me should die, and though I were +myself half dead, I would still persevere; and if I could not succeed in +the object of my journey, I would at last die on the Niger. + +"If I succeed in the object of my journey, I expect to be in England in +the month of May or June by way of the West Indies. + +"I request that your Lordship will have the goodness to permit my friend +Sir Joseph Banks to peruse the abridged account of my proceedings, and +that it may be preserved, in case I should lose my papers. + +"I have the honour to be, &c." + + +_To Mrs. Park._ + +_Sansanding, 19th November, 1805._ + +"It grieves me to the heart to write any thing that may give you +uneasiness; but such is the will of him who _doeth all things well_! +Your brother Alexander, my dear friend, is no more! He died of the fever +at Sansanding, on the morning of the 28th of October; for particulars I +must refer you to your father. + +"I am afraid that, impressed with a woman's fears and the anxieties of a +wife, you may be led to consider my situation as a great deal worse than +it really is. It is true, my dear friends, Mr. Anderson and George +Scott, have both bid adieu to the things of this world; and the greater +part of the soldiers have died on the march during the rainy season; but +you may believe me, I am in good health. The rains are completely over, +and the healthy season has commenced, so that there is no danger of +sickness; and I have still a sufficient force to protect me from any +insult in sailing down the river, to the sea. + +"We have already embarked all our things, and shall sail the moment I +have finished this letter. I do not intend to stop or land any where, +till we reach the coast: which I suppose will be some time in the end of +January. We shall then embark in the first vessel for England. If we +have to go round by the West Indies, the voyage will occupy three months +longer; so that we expect to be in England on the first of May. The +reason of our delay since we left the coast was the rainy season, which +came on us during the journey; and almost all the soldiers became +affected with the fever. + +"I think it not unlikely but I shall be in England before you receive +this--You may be sure that I feel happy at turning my face towards home. +We this morning have done with all intercourse with the natives; and the +sails are now hoisting for our departure for the coast." + + + * * * * * + +Here all authentic information concerning Park unfortunately terminates. +His letters and Journal were brought by Isaaco to the Gambia, and +transmitted from thence to England. For some time nothing farther was +heard of the expedition; but in the course of the year 1806 unfavourable +accounts were brought by the native traders from the interior of Africa +to the British settlements on the coast; and it was currently reported, +but upon no distinct authority, that Park and his companions were +killed. These rumours increasing, and no intelligence of Park being +received, Lieutenant Colonel Maxwell, then Governor of Senegal (at +present Governor of Sierra Leone), obtained permission from Government +to send a proper person to ascertain the truth of the reports; and he +was fortunate enough to engage Isaaco, Park's guide, to go upon this +mission. + +Isaaco left Senegal in January 1810, and was absent about twenty months. +He returned on the 1st of September 1811, with a full confirmation of +the reports concerning Park's death. As the result of his enquiries into +this subject, he delivered to the Governor a Journal of his whole +proceedings kept by himself in the Arabic language, including another +Journal which he had received from Amadi Fatouma, the guide who had +accompanied Park from Sansanding down the Niger. A translation of this +singular document was made at Senegal by the directions of Colonel +Maxwell, and transmitted by him to the Secretary of State for the +Colonial Department. + +On the subject of this Journal, so far as it immediately relates to +Park's death, very few remarks will be necessary. Being originally +written by a native African, and translated by some person who probably +had but a moderate knowledge of the Arabian dialect in which it is +composed, it is far from being always clear or even intelligible; and in +the state in which it now appears, it is open to much observation. +Neither indeed can it be considered in itself as a document of a very +authentic or satisfactory description. But the account which it gives of +Park's death appears on the whole to be probable and consistent; and is +so far corroborated by other circumstances as to leave no reasonable +doubt with regard to the fact. [Footnote: The genuine travelling Journal +of a native African Merchant may in some respects be considered as +interesting, simply from the circumstance of its singularity. But it +must be acknowledged that for the mere purpose of gratifying curiosity +very few specimens of Isaaco would have been sufficient. The sole reason +for publishing such a document at full length, is the circumstance of +its containing the only direct evidence of Park's death. In every other +point of view it is wholly destitute of interest, and cannot even be +read through, without a strong effort; being inconceivably tedious, and +having all the dry minuteness of a log book, without its valuable +precision. There is great confusion as to places and times; and it is +possible only in a very few cases, to identify the former by reference +to the names of places given by Park. Incidents the most trifling are +related exactly in the same tone and manner as those of the greatest +importance. The account of Park's death is given with more details, and +the story is not ill told. But some of the facts are very questionable; +and the circumstance of Park and Lieutenant Martyn leaping hand in hand +with the soldiers into the river, is much too _theatrical_ to be +literally true.--What is most incredible, is the description of the +place where the event happened, which is stated to be an opening in a +rock "in the form of a door," forming the only passage for the water; a +fact so strange, that (if it were worth while to conjecture) one might +suspect an error in the translation.] + +It is true that the proof of Park's death according to this Journal, +depends entirely upon the statement of Amadi Fatouma; but the nature of +the case admits of no other direct evidence; and some regard must be had +to the opinion of Isaaco, considered by Colonel Maxwell as a person +entitled to a certain degree of credit, who, after full investigation, +was satisfied as to the truth of Amadi's account. It may be observed +also, as a circumstance which gives additional weight to Isaaco's +judgment, that being well acquainted with the anxiety of his employers +respecting Park's safety, he must naturally have been desirous of +discovering reasons for believing that he was still in existence; and +was therefore unlikely to admit the fact of his death upon any ground, +short of his own positive conviction. + +But the principal and decisive circumstance in this case, is the length +of time which has elapsed without any intelligence being heard of Park, +since his departure from Sansanding in November 1805. This can only be +accounted for, by supposing either that he is actually dead or detained +in Africa as a captive; and when we consider the nature of the +enterprise in which he was engaged, his personal character, and the +resistance he was likely to make in case of any hostile attack, we must +acknowledge that of the two suppositions, the former is by far the most +probable. + +To this it may be added, that since the time of the original reports +respecting Park's death in 1806, no circumstance has occurred to bring +that fact into doubt; if we except a few transient rumours relative to +_white men_ stated to be in remote parts of the interior of Africa, +which have led some persons to suppose that Park may be still in +existence. Several surmises of this kind (for they are entitled to no +higher appellation) have from time to time been circulated, and have +found their way into newspapers and public journals; although the +slightest enquiry would have shewn that they were entitled to no credit +or attention. They would commonly be found to originate from loose and +indistinct communications received from some of the settlements on the +African coast, to which very slight and insignificant circumstances +might originally have given occasion. A Moor or an Asiatic, the colour +of whose skin differs by a few shades from that of the native Africans, +would be described by them as a stranger or white man. The _hearsay_ +accounts of the appearance of such a person in the interior of Africa +would afford ample materials for credulity and exaggeration; and might +easily give rise to reports and assertions the most unfounded and +extravagant. + +Upon the whole there seems to be no reasonable ground of doubt with +regard to the fact either of Park's death or of its having happened in +the manner described in Isaaco's Journal. The first of these may be +considered as morally certain, the latter as highly probable. But the +exact time when this event took place and the circumstances attending +it, are left in great obscurity; partly from a general want of +distinctness and precision in the narrative; but principally because the +particulars related, depend altogether upon the unsupported testimony of +a slave, (represented as the only survivor of those who were with Park +at the time of his death,) from whom the information was obtained at an +interval of three months after the transaction. It is obvious that no +reliance can be placed on a narrative resting upon such authority; and +we must be content to remain in ignorance of the precise circumstances +of Park's melancholy fate. But that he was attacked by the natives on +his voyage from Sansanding eastwards, that he was overpowered by +numbers, and that he perished on his passage down the Niger, cannot +reasonably be doubted. + + * * * * * + +The leading parts of Mungo Park's character must have been anticipated +by the reader in the principal events and transactions of his life. Of +his enterprising spirit, his indefatigable vigilance and activity, his +calm fortitude and unshaken perseverance, he has left permanent +memorials in the narrative of his former travels and in the Journal and +Correspondence now published. In these respects few travellers have +equalled, none certainly ever surpassed him. Nor were the qualities of +his understanding less valuable or conspicuous. He was distinguished by +a correctness of judgment, seldom found united with an ardent and +adventurous turn of mind, and generally deemed incompatible with it. His +talents certainly were not brilliant, but solid and useful, such as were +peculiarly suited to a traveller and geographical discoverer. Hence, in +his accounts of new and unknown countries, he is consistent and +rational; he is betrayed into no exaggeration, nor does he exhibit any +traces of credulity or enthusiasm. His attention was directed +exclusively to facts; and except in his opinion relative to the +termination of the Niger (which he supported by very plausible +arguments) he rarely indulged in conjecture, much less in hypothesis or +speculation. + +Among the characteristic qualities of Park which were so apparent in his +former travels, none certainly were more valuable or contributed more to +his success than his admirable prudence, calmness and temper; but it has +been doubted whether these merits were equally conspicuous during his +second expedition. The parts of his conduct which have given occasion to +this remark, are, his setting out from the Gambia almost at the eve of +the rainy season, and his voyage down the Niger under circumstances so +apparently desperate. On the motives by which he may have been +influenced as to the former of these measures, something has been said +in the course of the foregoing narrative. [Footnote: See p. lxvi.] With +regard to his determination in the latter instance, justice must allow +that his situation was one of extreme difficulty, and admitted probably +of no alternative. In both cases our knowledge of the facts is much too +imperfect to enable us to form a correct opinion as to the propriety of +his conduct, much less to justify us in condemning him _unheard_. + +In all the relations of private life, he appears to have been highly +exemplary; and his conduct as a son, a husband, and a father merited +every praise. To the more gentle and amiable parts of his character the +most certain of all testimonies may be found in the warm attachment of +his friends, and in the fond and affectionate recollections of every +branch of his family. + +There are some moral defects very difficult to be avoided by those +persons, who from a situation comparatively obscure, rise to sudden +distinction and celebrity. From these failings Park was happily exempt. +He was a stranger to all vanity and affectation; and notwithstanding his +great popularity and success, appears to have lost no portion of the +genuine simplicity of his character and manners. This simplicity +originated perhaps in a considerable degree from a certain coldness and +reserve, which, as was before remarked, rendered him very indifferent, +and perhaps somewhat averse, to mixed or general society. It was +probably owing to the same cause that his conversation, for a man who +had seen so much, had nothing remarkable, and was rarely striking or +animated. Hence, although his appearance was interesting and +prepossessing, he was apt to disappoint the expectations of strangers; +and those persons who estimated his general talents from his powers of +conversation, formed an erroneous and inadequate opinion of his merits. + +In his person he was tall, being about six feet high, and perfectly well +proportioned. His countenance and whole appearance were highly +interesting; and his frame active and robust, fitted for great exertions +and the endurance of great hardships. His constitution had suffered +considerably from the effects of his first journey into Africa, but +seems afterwards to have been restored to its original vigour, of which +his last expedition afforded the most ample proofs. + +Park's family consisted of three sons and one daughter, all of whom, +together with Mrs. Park their mother, are now living. He also left a +mother, four brothers (of whom one is lately dead), and three sisters. + + * * * * * + +In the death of Mungo Park we have to lament not only the loss of the +most distinguished traveller of modern times, but the failure of an +expedition, honourable to Great Britain and highly interesting to +humanity and science. For a time this unfortunate event has had the +effect of damping the ardour of geographical enquiry, and of +discouraging all ideas of farther endeavours to explore the interior of +Africa. But we may hope that the publication of Park's Journal will +revive the attention of enlightened men to this subject; and that the +prospect of future discoveries in that quarter of the globe will not be +hastily abandoned. + +It has been seen that Park's failure was entirely owing to the improper +season at which his journey was undertaken, and that this circumstance +was occasioned by a series of unforeseen delays arising from a great +variety of causes. A slight difference in some of those accidents which +retarded his progress to the Niger, might obviously have had a most +material influence on the ultimate success of the expedition. Thus, for +example, if he could have sailed for Africa immediately after receiving +his official instructions, if his passage had been quicker, if fewer +causes of delay had occurred on the coast and afterwards during the +journey, and finally, if the rainy season, which is subject to some +slight variations, had commenced a little later;--he might perhaps have +been able to reach the banks of the Niger in good order, and with a loss +comparatively small; and in that case might have proceeded on his +journey eastwards at the conclusion of the rainy season with some +prospect of success. But the safe arrival of Park's expedition at the +Niger, which was only just possible in the actual circumstances of the +case, would have been morally certain provided he had sailed from +England (as he ought to have done) before the month of October, and had +been ready to take his departure from the Gambia towards the interior at +the end of November; from which time there is always an uninterrupted +continuance of fine and healthy weather during a period of five months. + +Hence we may safely conclude that, supposing all reasonable precautions +to be taken, an expedition similar to that of Park, may penetrate to the +Niger and along the banks of that river as far as the eastern frontier +of Bambarra, in good order and with very little loss; and this most +important fact is justly considered by Park himself as being fully +established by his own disastrous expedition. [Footnote: Journal, p. +140.] + +In what degree it is practicable to penetrate _beyond Bambarra_ yet +remains to be ascertained; since it cannot be said that this question is +determined, or even materially affected, by what took place in Park's +expedition. No general inference upon this subject can be fairly deduced +from an extreme case, such as Park's evidently was; nor does it follow, +because a small party consisting of four Europeans and a few Negroes, +was attacked and overpowered, that an expedition well appointed and +properly organized, would experience a similar fate. It may be observed +also that, ill provided as Park was with the means of defence, he was +able to proceed in safety beyond Tombuctoo, where the Moors are most +numerous, and would in a short time have reached a country beyond the +Moorish territory, where the danger would probably have been much +diminished. [Footnote: See letter to Sir Joseph Banks (ante p. lxxviii) +in which Park says "that, according to the information of the guide, +they should touch on the Moors no where but at Tombuctoo."] Neither is +it altogether certain that his death was not one of those _accidents_, +to which such enterprises are peculiarly liable, but from which no +general conclusion can be drawn. [Footnote: Such, for example, as +Captain Cooke's death, which certainly affords no argument against +voyages of discovery. It may be observed that the statement in the note +annexed to Amadi Fatouma's Journal (see p. 213) gives some countenance +to the supposition mentioned in the text. From this note it appears that +certain presents which Amadi had delivered from Park to one of the +chiefs of Haoussa for the use of the king, were with-held from the +latter in consequence of the chief's being informed that Park would not +return; and that the king's resentment, occasioned by his receiving no +presents, was the cause of Park's death.--It may be proper on this +occasion to apprize the reader that the notes to Isaaco's Journal +(except in one instance, p. 181) are all of them printed from the +manuscript of the translation, and appear to be parts of the original +document transmitted from Africa. They seem to have been inserted by the +translator; and in several cases, apparently, were added from +information which he received from Isaaco.] + +It will appear, upon a due consideration of these circumstances, that +reasonable and sufficient inducements still exist for attempting farther +discoveries in Africa; and that nothing really unfavourable to such +undertakings can with propriety be inferred from Park's late failure; +but on the contrary, that the events of that mission furnish additional +grounds of encouragement and new prospects of success. The proper _mode_ +also of conducting such discoveries in future, may now be considered as +ascertained. Before Park's late Journey, the important question whether +an expedition of this kind should be accompanied by a military escort, +was involved in some difficulty. Apprehensions might then be entertained +lest the appearance of an armed force passing through the country might +alarm the jealousy of the natives, and produce hostile combinations, by +which any small body of European troops would sooner or later be +overpowered. It might also have been doubted, and with great appearance +of reason, whether it would be practicable on such a march to obtain +proper supplies of provisions. The history of Park's expedition appears +to furnish a clear and satisfactory solution of both these difficulties; +and experience having shewn that large tracts of the African continent +may be traversed in safety by the aid even of a small and ill organized +force under circumstances the most unfavourable, the question as to the +expediency of a military escort may now be said to be determined. + +The sufferings of Park during his former journey, and the melancholy +fate of Major Houghton, Mr. Horneman, and other travellers distinguished +by their enterprise and ability, demonstrate the utter hopelessness of +such undertakings, when attempted by solitary and unprotected +individuals. Even if the two schemes of discovery were equally +practicable, the military plan (supposing always that the force employed +is strictly limited to the purposes of security and protection) would on +several accounts be entitled to a decided preference; inasmuch as it +affords more ample means of observation and enquiry, as it is calculated +to inspire the Africans with a greater respect for the European +character, and as it may be rendered far more efficacious for the +purposes of friendly and commercial intercourse. [Footnote: If the +practice of sending out single individuals on journies of discovery into +Africa is still to be continued, it would be better perhaps to employ +_Mahometan_ travellers, who might accompany some of the great caravans. +The dangers, to which European adventurers are always exposed, from the +ferocity and intolerance of the Moors, would thus in a considerable +degree be avoided. There is reason to believe that individuals +sufficiently intelligent for an expedition of this kind, and whose +constitutions would also be well suited to the climate of Africa, might +be found without much difficulty among the Mahometan inhabitants of +Hindostan. If a fair judgment can be formed of this class of the British +subjects from the _Travels of Abu Taleb_ (the genuine and highly +interesting production of a native Mahometan of the East Indies), a very +favourable opinion must be entertained of their intelligence and general +information.] + +The scheme of an expedition into the interior of Africa, formed upon +these principles, has lately been proposed from high authority, which +holds out a considerable prospect of success. From the quarter in which +the suggestion has originated, a reasonable hope may be entertained that +this plan, of which the following is a short outline, will ultimately be +carried into effect. [Footnote: The particulars of the projected +expedition here alluded to, which are given in the text, are extracted +from a very interesting communication lately made to the African +Institution by Major General Gordon, Quarter Master General of the +British Forces.] + +In the Royal African corps now serving at Sierra Leone there are three +companies of black men, enlisted from the slaves obtained from the +numerous slave trading vessels which have at different times been +condemned as prize upon that coast. Among these there are several +natives of Tombuctoo, Haoussa, Bornou and other countries even more +distant; some of them having been brought from parts of Africa so remote +as to have been _two, three_ and _four_ moons upon their journey to the +coast. Most of them have acquired sufficient knowledge of the English +language to express themselves so as to be understood, although they +retain their native languages, which they still speak with fluency. + +These men, having been trained and disciplined with great care, are +become excellent soldiers, and are spoken of by the Governor of Sierra +Leone in the highest terms of approbation for their obedience, +steadiness and general good conduct. They are of course inured to the +climate, are accustomed to hardships and fatigues, and capable of the +greatest exertions. They are at the same time courageous and high +spirited, feeling a pride and elevation from the advantages which they +enjoy, and the comparative _rank_ to which they have attained; and they +are warmly attached to the British Government. + +It is proposed that a proper and well selected detachment of these +troops should form the basis of the intended expedition; and that, +besides the person having the immediate command, one or two other +leading persons should be appointed, each properly qualified to assist +in the direction and management of the principal concerns, and (in case +of emergency) to undertake the sole charge of the expedition. The number +of the troops employed would of course be regulated by a due regard to +the probable means of subsistence; but it is proposed that they should +be sufficiently numerous to enable the leaders, in cases where it might +be expedient, to separate with small detachments, taking distinct lines +of march as local circumstances and other occasions might require. +[Footnote: The writer is well aware that, in some of the opinions which +he has expressed with regard to the black troops of Sierra Leone, he can +hardly expect the concurrence of several excellent individuals, among +the best friends of the African cause, who are known to be averse to the +employment of Negroes in the military service; and he is ready to admit +that the practice which has prevailed of enlisting captured Africans is +liable to some abuse. Let such abuses be anxiously guarded against by +all the means which legislative wisdom can devise; let every charge of +misconduct in this respect be rigorously investigated; and if it should +appear to be well founded, let it be pursued with the utmost strictness +and severity. But let not occasional abuses be urged as valid arguments +against the practice itself, if it should be ascertained to be, on the +whole, beneficial to the Africans. It has been stated by enlightened and +benevolent persons, who have witnessed the state of slavery in the West +Indies (and the assertion has every appearance of probability) that the +embodying and employment of black troops has had the happiest effect in +elevating and improving the Negro character, and in giving a greater +degree of importance to that oppressed race. In the instance of Sierra +Leone, to which these observations more immediately relate, compare the +situation of a captured Negro, when rescued from the horrors of a slave +vessel with that of the same man a short time afterwards, when serving +as a British soldier! The ordinary condition of human life has nothing +similar to this change; it is a transition from the most abject misery +to ease, comfort, and comparative dignity.--Add to this, the extreme +difficulty (which every unprejudiced enquirer must admit) attending the +management and disposal of great numbers of these captured Negroes in a +small colony like Sierra Leone; and the utter impossibility, considering +their savage ignorance and total want of habits of industry, of +providing all of them, or even any tolerable number, with agricultural +establishments.] + +The principal objects of this expedition would be similar in all +respects to those of Park's last journey--to ascertain the course and +termination of the Niger, to acquire a geographical knowledge of the +countries through which it flows; and to procure all possible +information relative to the condition of the inhabitants, their +commercial relations and their general state of improvement. With a view +to the attainment of these objects of practical and scientific enquiry, +the leader of the expedition would be enjoined in the most strict and +positive terms by his official instructions, to avoid all acts of +aggression towards the natives, and (except in cases of absolute +self-defence) to abstain from every species of violence. He would be +farther directed to use his utmost endeavours to establish a friendly +intercourse and communication with the inhabitants; and for this purpose +to employ the most intelligent of the black troops, in all cases in +which it might be practicable, as interpreters of the expedition and +messengers of peace and conciliation. + +By the plan which has thus shortly been described, every disadvantage +which attended Park's mission, would be avoided, and all its defects +supplied; and there seems to be every reasonable assurance that an +expedition, formed and conducted upon such principles (with a due +attention to the proper season for travelling), would be attended with +ultimate success. + +It would be difficult to anticipate the full extent of those beneficial +consequences which may ultimately be expected from the successful result +of such an expedition. We may perhaps be justified in expecting that the +intercourse, thus formed with the interior of Africa, will eventually +open new communications of trade, and possibly create new markets; that +a certain portion of that vast commerce, which is now carried on with +Tombuctoo from Morocco and the shores of the Mediterranean, may be +diverted to the western coast; and that great quantities of European +goods, now conveyed through other channels, may be transported into the +centre of Africa through the new route of the Niger. + +But without speculating too confidently upon commercial revolutions of +the nature here alluded to, which are for the most part very slow and +gradual, and seldom effected without much difficulty; we may safely +conclude that any rational and well concerted expedition to the interior +of Africa must be of great efficacy in promoting and extending the +legitimate and beneficial commerce with different parts of that vast +continent, which has been rapidly advancing since the Abolition of the +slave trade. [Footnote: See Appendix, No. VI.] We may also reasonably +expect that such enterprises, judiciously conducted, will have important +effects upon the civilization and general improvement of Africa, by +exciting industry and diffusing useful knowledge among the natives; and +that some portion of these advantages may, in due time, be extended to +those remote and sequestered countries, which are at present excluded +from all intercourse with Europe, and abandoned to hopeless ignorance +and barbarism. Let us hope that the honour of passing those barriers, +which have hitherto separated Africa from the civilized world, is +reserved for the courage and perseverance of that nation, by whose +enlightened and disinterested exertions so much has been effected in +modern times, for the advancement of geographical knowledge. The voyages +of discovery which have been undertaken by the command of His present +Majesty, unstained by the guilt of conquest, and directed exclusively +towards objects of humanity and science, have conferred a lasting +distinction on the British name and character. The attempt to explore +the interior of Africa, dictated by the same generous views, is in no +respect less interesting, nor does it promise less important results, +even than those great undertakings; and it will be peculiarly worthy of +an age and nation, rendered for ever memorable in the annals of mankind +by the Abolition of the African slave trade. + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX. + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX. No. I. + + +Page viii. + +There is no part of Europe, in which education has been a subject of +more general attention or produced more important effects than in +Scotland. During little more than a century, a system of public +instruction established in that country, has not only had the most +beneficial influence upon industry and private morals, but has been the +principal cause of one of the most remarkable changes of national +character that has ever yet taken place during so short a period. At a +time when the public attention in this country is so laudably directed +towards providing means of instruction for the poor, a few remarks on +the effects of a system of general education in Scotland may not be +thought unseasonable. The following facts and observations relative to +this important subject are principally extracted from the interesting +Life of Burns, the poet, written by the late amiable and excellent +Doctor Currie. + +The system of education in Scotland, though closely connected with its +ecclesiastical establishment, owes its first legal existence to a +statute passed in the year 1646 by the Parliament of that Kingdom for +establishing schools in every parish, at the expense of the landholders, +for the express purpose of teaching the poor. On the Restoration in 1660 +this excellent statute was repealed; and nothing further was done or +attempted for the instruction of the people during the reigns of Charles +and James, which were chiefly occupied in religious persecution. But in +the year 1696, some years after the Revolution, the statute of 1646 was +re-enacted nearly in the same terms, and continues to be the law of +Scotland at the present time. Connected with this legislative provision +are many acts passed by the General Assemblies of the church of +Scotland, which are binding as to matters of ecclesiastical +jurisdiction; and the whole together forms a code of regulations, which +is eminently distinguished for the reasonableness and practical good +sense of its particular provisions, and which experience has shewn to be +perfectly effectual for the important purpose intended. So much +convinced indeed are the lower classes in Scotland of the benefits +attending this system, that, where the parishes are large, they often +form subscriptions and establish private schools of their own, in +addition to the parochial seminaries. + +In the year 1698, about the time when this system was established, +Fletcher of Saltoun, in one of his _Discourses concerning the affairs of +Scotland_, describes the lower classes of that kingdom as being in a +state of the most abject poverty and savage ignorance; and subsisting +partly by mere beggary, but chiefly by violence and rapine, "without any +regard or subjection either to the laws of the land or to those of God +and nature." Some of the instances given by this writer of the disorder +and violence of that period may remind us of the effects produced by a +similar state of things during our own times, upon the _Irish peasantry_ +in the disturbed parts of that unhappy country. "In years of plenty," +says Fletcher, "many thousands of them meet together in the mountains, +where they feast and riot for many days, and at country weddings, +markets, _burials_, and other public occasions, they are to be seen, +both men and women, perpetually drunk, cursing, blaspheming, and +fighting together." [Footnote: Political Works of Andrew Fletcher, 8vo: +London 1737, p. 144.] Such was the state of Scotland at the time when +the present system of education was established. + +It is justly stated by Dr. Currie that, at the present day, there is +perhaps no country in Europe, in which, in proportion to its population, +so small a number of crimes fall under the chastisement of the criminal +law, as in Scotland; and he adds, upon undoubted authority, that on an +average of thirty years preceding the year, 1797, the executions in that +division of the Island did not amount to six annually, and that more +felons have been convicted and sentenced to transportation at one +quarter sessions for the town of Manchester only, than the average +number of persons sentenced to a similar punishment during a whole year +by all the Judges of Scotland. [Footnote: Works of Robert Burns, +Liverpool 1800. vol. 1. p. 353, 8vo.] + +But the influence of education in Scotland has not been merely negative +or confined to the diminution of criminal offences; it has produced in a +very eminent degree those habits of industry and frugality, upon which +all civilization and improvement ultimately depend. In no age or country +have these excellent qualities, the cardinal virtues of the lower orders +of society, been more prevalent than among the peasantry and common +people of Scotland during modern times: in none have the instances been +more frequent of individuals who, by a course of meritorious exertions, +have raised themselves from an inferior condition of life to ease and +competence, and sometimes to riches and distinction. + +It is impossible to conceive any situation more happy and respectable +than that of the parent of a well educated family (such as was the +father of the subject of this memoir, and such as there are now many +others among the farmers and peasantry of Scotland) enjoying the just +reward of his paternal cares in the prosperity and success of his +children; each of whom he sees engaged in some beneficial pursuit, each +bettering his condition in life, and each advanced somewhat in the scale +of society above the situation in which he was born. It is this visible +_progress_ and continual _improvement_ in the circumstances and +condition of families, so frequent in the class here particularly +alluded to, which produces the greatest portion of happiness of which +any community is capable; which stimulates to intelligent activity, and +useful, persevering exertions; and which keeps alive and invigorates +that orderly, quiet ambition, which is the foundation of all private and +public prosperity, and the great civilizing principle of individuals and +nations. + +It is true that there are several other circumstances, besides the +system of public education in Scotland, which have assisted in producing +that extraordinary change of national character which has given occasion +to the present remarks. But of the various causes which have contributed +to this change, education is by far the most important, and that, +without which indeed all the rest would have been comparatively of no +avail. It is to early instruction, most unquestionably, that we must +attribute that general intelligence, and those habits of thoughtfulness, +deliberation, and foresight, which usually distinguish the common people +of Scotland, where-ever they may be found, and whatever may be their +employments and situations; which ensure their success in life under +favourable circumstances; and in adverse fortune serve as a protection +against absolute indigence, and secure to them a certain station above +the lowest condition of life. + +The truth of this remark will be apparent from a few practical +instances, drawn from the experience of common life, of that general +superiority which is here attributed to the lower classes of the Scotch, +as the effect of their superior industry and intelligence--1. Every one +has remarked the great number of professional gardeners from that +country, many of whom have been common labourers, and who if they had +been no better educated than most English labourers, must always have +remained in that situation. Of this numerous class Mr. Dickson, Park's +brother-in law, is a remarkable and most distinguished example.--2. +Scotland supplies a considerable number of stewards, confidential +clerks, book-keepers, &c. from a class of society, which in most other +countries furnishes only domestic servants. The British Colonies, and +especially the West Indies, are chiefly provided with clerks, overseers +of plantations, &c. from this source.--3. The prodigious number of +non-commissioned officers in the army, who are natives of Scotland, +having been raised from the ranks in consequence of their knowledge of +reading and writing, and general good conduct, is also very +remarkable.--The recollection of most readers will probably supply them +with other examples; but there are two instances, somewhat out of the +course of ordinary experience, which deserve to be particularly +mentioned. + +In the year 1803, Mr. Matthew Martin, a gentleman distinguished for his +active benevolence, having been for some time engaged, under the +sanction of Government, in a laborious enquiry concerning the "State of +Mendicity in the Metropolis," was desired to make a Report upon that +subject for the information of Government. From the statement which Mr. +Martin prepared on that occasion and laid before the Secretary of State, +it appeared that the number of Scotch beggars in London was remarkably +small, especially in proportion to the Irish beggars, with whom it was +most natural to compare them. Of 2000 beggars, whose cases were +investigated by Mr. Martin, the following is a summary. + +Belonging to parishes home 570 + distant parishes 336 +Irish 679 +Scotch 65 +Foreign 30 + +The second of the two cases is of a still more uncommon nature.--In the +course of the expedition against Egypt in 1807, the advanced guard of +Major General Fraser's army having taken possession of Rosetta and +occupied a position at El Hamed a few miles from that town, was +surprised by a strong corps of Turkish troops, and after an obstinate +conflict and the loss of many lives, compelled to surrender. According +to the Turkish custom, the prisoners taken were sold as slaves, and +dispersed over the whole country; some of them being sent as far as +Upper Egypt. Great exertions were naturally made by the British +government to redeem those unfortunate persons from captivity; and this +was happily effected as to all the prisoners, except a few who could not +be traced, by the assistance of Signor Petrucci, the Swedish consul at +Alexandria. + +From the authentic documents relating to this transaction, it appears +that the ransoms paid for the redemption of the captives differed very +considerably; the prices varying from between twenty and thirty pounds +to more than one hundred pounds sterling for each man. But it is +observable, on comparing the different rates, that the highest ransoms +were paid for those, who must be considered, from their names, to have +been natives of Scotland; and who, it may be presumed, were more +_valuable_ than the rest from being more orderly and intelligent. It +could not have been easily anticipated that a soldier, brought up in a +Scotch parish school, was likely, when enslaved by the Turks and a +captive in Egypt, to derive much advantage from his _education_. Yet it +is probable from this circumstance that the intelligence and habits of +good conduct, which he acquired from early instruction, might recommend +him to his master, and as domestic slavery admits of many mitigations, +might procure him kinder and better treatment. + + + +APPENDIX. No. II. + + +Page xix. + +Major Rennell, in his Geographical Illustrations of Park's travels, has +done ample justice to the knowledge and judgment, so eminently displayed +by D'Anville in the investigation of several important points relative +to the geography of North Africa, which have been elucidated by this +writer from very imperfect materials with extraordinary sagacity and +success. In the 26th volume of the Memoirs of the Academy of +Inscriptions, there are two very important Dissertations by this +distinguished Geographer; the first, On the sources of the Nile; and the +second, Concerning the rivers of the interior of Africa, with reference +to the opinions of the ancient and modern writers who have treated on +that subject. The latter is the most immediately connected with the +particular questions alluded to in the text; and it is remarkable that +the principal opinions, or rather conjectures, of D'Anville (of which +the opinion relating to the course of the Niger is the most important), +although deduced from very uncertain and discordant sources of +information, have been confirmed in a great degree by the discoveries of +modern travellers, especially by those of Park. It appears that +D'Anville was well acquainted with the existence of Tombuctoo, and had +even ascertained the situation of that city, as well as the general +course of the Niger with a considerable degree of precision. He had also +formed a plan for sending a person, properly qualified, on an expedition +from the French settlement of St. Joseph on the river Senegal, to +Tombuctoo; but owing to some circumstance which he does not explain, the +scheme did not take effect. As the Dissertation here alluded to may not +be in the hands of every reader, the passage relating to this subject +may be worth transcribing.--After mentioning Ghana as the principal +Mahometan city of Nigritia, spoken of by Edrisi, he says that many of +the Fatimites, who escaped from the power of the Califs, took refuge in +the interior of Africa, where they formed various states. He then +proceeds as follows: + +"Tombut ou Tombouctou, est actuellement entre les villes de la Nigritie, +celle dont on parle davantage. On ne doit point être surpris qu'Edrisi +n'en fasse pas mention. Outre qu'elle se peut juger hors des limites de +ce qui lui a été connu, Léon d'Afrique nous apprend que la fondation de +Tombut par un prince de Barbarie, appellé Mensa-Suléiman, est de l'an +610 de l'Hégire, qui repond à l'an 1213 de l'ère Chrétienne, ce qui est +postérieur à la géographie d'Edrisi, composée vers le milieu du douzième +siècle. La situation de cette ville n'est pas précisément sur le Niger; +mais elle y a son port, nommé Cabra, à quelques milles de distance. +Comme aucune des nations commerçantes de l'Europe n'a pénétré aussi +avant dans les terres, en cette partie d'Afrique, que la nation +Françoise, par ses établissemens sur le Sénéga, elle est plus à portée +qu'une autre d'acquérir quelque connoissance de cet intérieur. J'ai +appris, d'une personne qui avoit commandé plusieurs années au fort +Saint-Joseph en Galam, lequel se peut estimer distant en droite ligne de +l'entrée du Sénéga d'environ cent trent lieues françoises; que les +Bambaras, qui du fond du pays amènent des esclaves noirs, comptent +quarante huit journées depuis Tombut jusqu'au fort Saint-Joseph, et que +la mesure commune de la journée s'évalue à environ cinq lieues, d'où il +résulte autour de deux cens quarante lieues. Le moyen d'en savoir +davantage seroit, que quelque personne habituée au climat, comme il y en +a dans le haut du Sénéga, accompagnée d'interprètes, et qu'une +instruction préalable auroit mise au fait d'une partie des choses dont +il seroit à propos de s'informer, fît le voyage de Tombut. Un évènement +a empêché l'exécution d'un projet, auquel j'avois très-volontiers pris +part dans cette vûe." + +_Mém. de l'Acad. des Inscriptions_, Tom. xxvi. p. 72. + +The above passage was written by D'Anville about the year 1754; and it +is not a little extraordinary that during the sixty years that have +since elapsed, a period so much distinguished for geographical +discovery, Tombuctoo should never have been visited by any European +traveller: and that one of the greatest marts of African commerce, which +is annually resorted to by caravans from various parts of that +continent, should remain at this time entirely unknown to the civilized +world. + +In speaking of Tombuctoo as being still entirely unknown, the writer is +aware that a particular description of that city has been given in an +_Account of the Empire of Morocco_ published in the year 1809 by Mr. +James Grey Jackson, who resided in that part of Africa during many +years. But Mr. Jackson derived his whole knowledge of Tombuctoo from the +accounts of native traders; upon whose unsupported testimony very little +reliance can be placed; especially as to matters of detail, or such +facts as require to be stated with any degree of exactness. Considering +that Mr. Jackson's information was obtained from this source, the very +minuteness and apparent precision of his account, are circumstances +highly unfavourable to its authenticity. + +With reference to the internal geography of Africa, the writer may take +this opportunity of observing, that next to the African Association, to +whom we are indebted for almost all the authentic information which we +possess upon this subject, [Footnote: The valuable discoveries of the +late Mr. Browne (whose death must be lamented as a public loss) form an +exception to this general remark; but perhaps the only exception.] +considerable praise is due to the Sierra Leone Company; under whose +auspices, during the time they were in possession of that colony, +several important journies into the interior were judiciously undertaken +and successfully executed. Among these may be mentioned an expedition in +1794 by Mr. Watt and Mr. Winterbottom (being a land journey of near five +hundred miles, in going and returning by different routes) to Laby and +Teembo, both of them considerable towns, and the latter the capital of +the Foulah country. Tombuctoo appeared, from the enquiries made by the +travellers, to be well known at both those places; and the communication +with that city from Laby, though it was spoken of as a journey of four +moons, was represented to be open, and they were furnished with many +particulars of the route. Shortly afterwards, in consequence perhaps of +this information, a project was formed at Sierra Leone of sending out a +mission to Tombuctoo; but Mr. Watt, who was to have undertaken the +journey, died; and the invasion of the colony by the French in September +1794, together with the destruction which followed, seems to have put a +stop to expeditions of this nature. + +The editor has been favoured by Mr. Macaulay, late Secretary of the +Sierra Leone Company and formerly Governor of the Colony, with a sight +of the Journals of the expedition to Teembo as well as of some other +missions from Sierra Leone of inferior importance. They do great credit +to the writers (especially the Journal to Teembo) and contain many +valuable and interesting particulars; several of which have been given +to the public in the Reports of the Sierra Leone Company, and in Dr. +Winterbottom's judicious account of the native Africans in the +neighbourhood of that colony. But there is still room for a compilation +or selection from these Journals, which, if well executed, would be an +instructive and interesting publication. + + +APPENDIX. No. III. + + +Page xxix. + +Soon after Mr. Edwards's death several letters passed between Park and +Sir William Young, now Governor of Tobago, upon a subject immediately +connected with the question, considered in the memoir, relative to the +assistance afforded by Mr. Edwards in preparing Park's travels for the +press. Copies of these letters having been transmitted to the editor by +Park's family, he thinks it right on the present occasion to lay them +before the public; remarking at the same time that, after due +consideration of their contents, he continues to be of the opinion which +he has expressed in the text. + +The occasion of this correspondence appears to have been as follows. Mr. +Edwards was engaged, at the time of his death, in preparing for the +press an enlarged and corrected edition of his _History of the West +Indies_; but as he did not live to complete it, his friend Sir William +Young superintended the publication of the work, and added a short +preface; in which, speaking of Mr. Edwards's literary merits, he +mentioned "the judicious compilation and elegant recital of the travels +of Mungo Park". This produced a letter of expostulation from Park to Sir +William Young, of which either no copy was kept, or it has been since +lost or mislaid; but the nature of its contents will be seen from the +sequel of the correspondence. + + +_Sir William Young to Mr. Park._ + +_59 Harley-street, November 9th, 1803._ + +"The day before yesterday I received your letter dated so far back as +August 25th. It appears to have been put into the London post, addressed +to my clerk's lodgings, only last week, and reached me in the country +November the 7th. I am thus particular as to dates, as I could not bear +the imputation of having so long neglected the due acknowledgment of a +letter from one whom I so highly esteem and respect. In regard to the +question you state, I understood from the late Mr. Edwards, that he +assisted in the general arrangement of the materials you supplied, as +Dr. Hawkesworth did, in the case of a voyage by the great navigator +Captain Cooke; and that the previous Account or Summary of your Travels +delivered into the African Association was written by him; to which your +fuller Account of your Travels in detail was subsequent. The word +"author," I believe, does not occur in the passage you refer to; and if +the words "compilation and recital" seem to bear any application beyond +the prospectus before adverted to, or in any way to trench on your just +pretensions as a writer, I truly lament the inaccuracy, and will take +the most immediate means of rectifying the error, which circumstances +may place within my reach; either by present correction or on a new +edition of the work. My situation as Secretary of the African +Association furnishes me with documents from which I have learned so +highly to appreciate your character and to entertain so grateful a sense +of your public services, that it would be painful in me, in the smallest +degree to have stated any thing that might be so construed as to affect +your just literary pretensions; although it is difficult to add to the +just and high reputation you held independently, from the fortitude, +discretion, and resource so eminently shewn in your distinguished and +successful enterprise." + + +_Mr. Park to Sir William Young._ + +_Fowlshiels, 14th May, 1804._ + +"I perceive by your letter, that you meant the words 'compilation' and +'recital,' to refer entirely to the Abridgment of my Travels, which was +written for the perusal of the gentlemen of the African Association, by +Mr. Edwards, their Secretary. + +"A printed copy of this Abridgment was delivered to each of the +gentlemen at their annual meeting, but I believe it was never publicly +sold. The greater number of readers are therefore but slightly +acquainted with it; and to such, the words above-mentioned will naturally +convey a very different meaning. Having thus explained myself to you, I +hope you will see the propriety of correcting the passage +above-mentioned as soon as possible. I must therefore request you will +permit me to insert your letter in any of the periodical publications, +or favour me with a correction of the passage, as you may think proper." + + +_Extract from a letter of Sir William Young to Mr. Park_ + +_May 25, 1804._ + +"The letter which I wrote on the subject of the publication of your +travels in Africa, is perfectly at your service to make any use of, +which you may think proper. No measure can be more satisfactory and +agreeable to myself, than that which may most fully render justice to +your high and well earned reputation in every point of view." + + + + +APPENDIX. No. IV. + + +The question regarding the termination of the Niger is one of the most +doubtful and obscure in modern geography, and in the present defective +state of our information with regard to the interior of Africa, seems +hardly to admit of a clear and satisfactory solution. Of the difficulties +with which the subject is attended, some judgment may be formed from the +various and even opposite opinions which have been maintained relative to +the course of the Niger, since Park's discoveries have ascertained that +it flows from west to east. As the enquiry is somewhat curious, a summary +view of these different opinions, and of the principal arguments by which +they are supported, may not be uninteresting to the readers of Park's +life. To investigate the question with the accuracy and minuteness which +it deserves, would not only very far exceed the limits of a note, but +would require much more information upon this subject than the editor +possesses, united with some previous habits of geographical disquisition. + +I. According to the oldest of these opinions, and that which is supported +by the greatest authorities (being the opinion not only of some of the +principal Geographers of antiquity, but of D'Anville and Rennell among +the moderns), it is supposed, that the Niger has an inland termination +somewhere in the eastern part of Africa, probably in Wangara or Ghana: +and that it is partly discharged into inland lakes, which have no +communication with the sea, and partly spread over a wide extent of level +country, and lost in sands or evaporated by the heat of the sun. + +[Footnote: Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 535.] + +The principal ground of this supposition is, the opinion of some of the +best informed writers of antiquity on the geography of Africa, and a sort +of general persuasion prevalent among the ancients to the same effect; +circumstances, it must be acknowledged, of considerable weight in +determining this question: since there is good reason to believe, that +the knowledge of the ancients concerning the interior of Africa was much +more extensive and accurate than that of the moderns. It is justly +observed by Dr. Robertson, that the geographical discoveries of the +ancients were made chiefly by land, those of the moderns by sea; the +progress of conquest having led to the former, that of commerce to the +latter. (Hist. Of America, vol. ii. p. 3l6, 8vo.) Besides which, there +are several distinct and peculiar causes which have essentially +contributed to our present ignorance respecting the interior of Africa; +namely, the great prevalence of the slave trade, which has confined the +attention of European adventurers exclusively to the coast; the small +temptation which the continent of Africa held out, during the continuance +of that trade, to internal commerce; and the almost impenetrable barrier +raised up against Europeans in modern times, by the savage intolerance of +the Moors. + +The ancient opinion, respecting the termination of the Niger which has +just been alluded to, receives a certain degree of confirmation from the +best and most authentic accounts concerning that part of Africa, in which +the Niger is supposed to disappear. This is represented by various +concurrent testimonies to be a great tract of alluvial country, having +several permanent lakes, and being annually overflowed for three months +during the rainy season. + +Against the hypothesis of an inland termination of the Niger, several +objections have been urged, which are well deserving of attention. They +are principally founded on a consideration of the vast magnitude which +the Niger must have attained after a course of more than 1600 +geographical miles, and the difficulty of conceiving so prodigious a +stream to be discharged into lakes, and evaporated even by an African +sun. To account for such a phenomenon, a great inland sea, bearing some +resemblance to the Caspian or the Aral, appears to be necessary. But, +besides that the existence of so vast a body of water without any outlet +into the ocean, is in itself an improbable circumstance, and not to be +lightly admitted; such a sea, if it really existed, could hardly have +remained a secret to the ancients, and entirely unknown at the present +day. + +It may just be observed, that D'Anville, following Ptolemy and other +writers whom he considers as the best informed on the internal geography +of Africa, is satisfied that there are _two_ considerable rivers, +the Niger and the _Gir_; both of which are said to terminate in the +same quarter of Africa, and precisely in the same manner. The Gir, +totally unknown at the present day, is familiarly mentioned by Claudian, +who, however, it may be recollected, was a native of Africa:-- + + '_Gir_, ditissimus amnis + 'Aethiopum, simili mentitus gurgite Nilum.' + Carm. 21. v. 252. + +In some MSS. it is _notissimus_ amnis; but the other reading is more +probable. + + 'Domitorque ferarum + 'Girrhaeus, qui vasta colit sub rupibus antra, + 'Qui ramos ebeni, qui dentes vellit eburnos.' + Carm. 47. v. 20. + +II. The second opinion respecting the Niger is, that it terminates in the +Nile. In other words, this hypothesis identifies the Niger with the great +western branch of the Nile, called the _White River_, which +D'Anville traces from a source very far SS.W. to its junction with the +Nile near Sennaar. He likewise accurately distinguishes this stream from +the eastern branch, which is much shorter and of inferior magnitude, and +which takes its rise in the mountains of Abyssinia. This opinion is +maintained by Mr. Horneman, Mr. Grey Jackson, and several other modern +travellers; and it is slightly sanctioned by Strabo and Pliny, who speak +of the sources of the Nile as being reported by some to be in the farther +parts of Mauritania. But it may be affirmed with great confidence, that +of all the hypotheses respecting the termination of the Niger, that which +supposes it to be a branch of the Nile, is the most unfounded, and the +least consistent with acknowledged facts. It is indeed rather a loose +popular conjecture, than an opinion deduced from probable reasoning; +since nothing appears to be alleged in its support, except the mere +circumstance of the course of the river being in a direction towards the +Nile; and a few vague notions of some of the African natives with regard +to this subject, which are unworthy of the smallest attention. + +Mr. Jackson, indeed, in his Travels (p. 310), states it to be a fact +universally known among the rich African traders, that the Niger and the +Nile are one and the same river, by means of which there is a practicable +communication between Tombuctoo and Grand Cairo. Between these two cities +caravans are continually passing, and a large trade is carried on; but +Mr. Jackson observes, that the expense of land-carriage by means of +camels is more moderate than that by water, and that the journey also is +more agreeable! He gives an account of the voyage to Cairo down the +Niger, having actually been performed in the year 1780 by a party of +seventeen negroes, the particulars of which expedition, he says that he +received from 'a very intelligent man who has an establishment at +Tombuctoo.' These negroes proceeded down the Niger from Jinnie, on a +commercial speculation, and reached Cairo after a voyage of fourteen +months. They returned by the caravan, and arrived at Jinnie, after an +absence of more than three years. Some of the facts which they reported +are not a little extraordinary:--_viz_. that in several places they +found the Nile so shallow, in consequence of channels cut for irrigating +the lands, that they could not proceed in their boat, and were obliged to +transport it some distance over-land; that they saw between Tombuctoo and +Cairo _twelve hundred_ cities and towns, adorned with mosques and +towers, &c. It is needless to comment upon such _hearsay_ +statements, received from an African traveller or merchant more than +twenty years after the transaction is said to have happened; nor would +any allusion have been made to them in this place, if Mr. Jackson's book +had not been much commended by distinguished critics, and quoted as an +authority respecting the interior of Africa by several geographical +writers. + +[Footnote: Edinburgh Review, vol. xiv. p. 306.] + +The principal, and apparently decisive, objection against this supposed +junction of the Niger and the Nile, is grounded upon a comparison of the +great _difference of level_ between the beds of the two rivers. From +the authentic information we possess by means of Mr. Browne, respecting +the countries west of the Nile, it is now clear, that if this junction +takes place at all, it must be in the upper part of the Nile, before that +river has quitted the higher regions of Africa, from whence it has still +1000 geographical miles to run before it reaches the sea, passing in its +way through several cataracts. But it is utterly incredible that the +Niger, which, in order to reach this part of the Nile, must have run at +the least 2300 miles, should not in so long a course have descended to a +level considerably lower than that which is here described. This +objection is urged with great force by Major Rennell, who justly +considers it as being entirely decisive of the question; but he has added +several other arguments, which those who take an interest in this +question, will do well to consult. + +[Footnote: Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 537; and +vol. ii. p. 268, 280.] + +III. The supposition, mentioned in the text (p. lxviii), that the Niger +terminates in the River Congo, or, as it is sometimes called, the Zaire, +is entirely a recent conjecture, adopted by Park in consequence of the +information and suggestions of Mr. Maxwell, an experienced African +trader, who appears from his letters to have been a man of observation +and intelligence. The principal arguments in support of the opinion are +shortly and clearly given in the memoir addressed by Park to Lord Camden; +but the subject will receive additional elucidation from Mr. Maxwell's +own statement, and especially from his striking description of the river +Congo, the vast magnitude of which is little known, and has not +sufficiently attracted the attention of geographical writers. The +following passage is extracted from a letter, dated Prior's Lynn, near +Longtown, July 20, 1804, addressed by Mr. Maxwell to William Keir, of +Milnholm, Esq., a friend of Park, to whom the letter was communicated by +Mr. Maxwell's desire. + +"Before ever the Niger came to be the topic of conversation, it struck +me, that the Congo drew its source far to the northward, from the floods +commencing long before any rains take place south of the equator; since +it begins to swell perceptibly about the latter end of October, and no +heavy rains set in before December: and about the end of January the +river must be supposed at its highest. At no time, however, can the rains +to the southward of the Line be compared with those in the Bight of +Guinea, where ships are obliged to have a house erected over them during +these months. + +"But, whether the Congo be the outlet of the Niger or not, it certainly +offers the best opening for exploring the interior of Africa of any +scheme that has ever yet been attempted; and the ease and safety with +which it might be conducted, needs no comment. However, if the Niger +_has_ a sensible outlet, I have no doubt of its proving the Congo, +knowing all the rivers between Cape Palmas and Cape Lopes to be +inadequate to the purpose; nor need the immense course of such a river +surprise us, when we know that the river St. Lawrence, contemptible in +size when compared with the Congo, encompasses the whole of North +America, issuing through a chain of lakes. But instead of seven or eight +lakes, the Congo may be supposed to pass through seventeen or eighteen; +which will solve any difficulty as to the floods of the Niger not +immediately affecting the Congo. I believe that our information of the +Niger losing itself in the Desert rests wholly upon the authority of the +Romans, a people whose pursuits never led them to trace the course of +rivers with a view to traffic or civilization. If we may credit the +accounts of travellers in crossing the deserts, we find that, where-ever +they get water for refreshment, there are invariably verdure and palm +trees; and these spots in the desert of Lybia were termed by the ancients +Oases, or Islands. Now, if such small springs could produce such +permanent effects, we may reasonably suppose, that the immense stream of +the Niger increased to three times the size from where Mr. Park left it, +would long before this have made the desert as green as any water meadow +and found its way gradually to the ocean, or inundated the whole +country." + +"I can with much truth say this of the river Congo, that by comparing it +with other rivers, according to the best writers, it must rank as the +third or fourth in magnitude. Considering the force of the current it +produces in the sea, carrying out floating islands sixty or seventy +leagues from the coast, the Amazon or Plata only can cope with it. Many +traders, whom I met with at Embomma, (a settlement on the banks of the +Congo distant thirty leagues from its mouth,) had come one month's +journey down the river, which, reckoned at twenty miles each day (and +they count them by the moon, _Gonda_), would make six hundred miles; +and they spoke of it as equally large where they came from, and that it +went by the name of _Enzaddi_, as it does among all the natives upon +the coast. Should the shallow water, as laid down opposite Saenda, +detract from the assumed size of the Congo, let it be remembered, that +the river there is spread out ten miles in width, the middle channel of +which has never been accurately sounded. It has long been my opinion that +Leyland's or Molyneux Island at Embomma (either of which might be +rendered as impregnable as Gibraltar at a very small expense) would be a +choice station for establishing an extensive commerce with the interior +of Africa. Indeed, if the idea of the Congo being the outlet of the Niger +prove so upon trial, we may consider it as an opening designed by +providence for exploring those vast regions, and civilizing the rude +inhabitants." + +[Footnote: A chart of the Congo by Mr. Maxwell was published many years +since by Laurie and Whittle, Fleet street.] + +Besides this account given by Mr. Maxwell, there are other testimonies to +the magnitude of the Congo, shewing it to be a river of the first class, +and larger probably than the Nile. In a journal (which the editor has +seen) of an intelligent and respectable naval officer, Captain Scobell, +who visited the coast of Africa in the year 1813, in H.M. sloop of war +the Thais, the Congo is described as "an immense river from which issues +a continued stream at the rate of four or five knots in the dry, and six +or seven in the rainy season." In a subsequent passage he says, "In +crossing this stream, I met several floating islands, or broken masses +from the banks of that noble river, which, with the trees still erect, +and the whole wafting to the motion of the sea, rushed far into the +ocean, and formed a novel prospect even to persons accustomed to the +phenomena of the waters." He adds, that there are soundings to the +distance of from thirty or forty miles from the coast, arising probably +from the vast quantity of alluvial matter brought down by the force of +the stream. + +Other accounts state, that the waters of the Congo may be distinguished +at sea more than thirty leagues from the coast, and that the water is +fresh at the distance of thirty miles. + +[Footnote: Lopez, Merulla, and Dapper, referred to in Phillips's Voyages, +vol. iii. p. 236.] + +These, perhaps, are exaggerations; but they may be received, in +confirmation of the preceding testimonies, as sufficient proofs of a +general opinion among navigators with regard to the size and force of +this prodigious river. It is mentioned by Major Rennell in his very +interesting account of the Ganges, that the sea in the bay of Bengal +ceases to be affected by the waters of that river, and recovers its +transparency, only at the distance of about twenty leagues from the +coast. (Phil. Transactions, vol. lxxi.) But the Ganges being obstructed +by its Delta, and passing through eight channels into the sea, is +probably much less rapid and impetuous than the Congo. + +To this it must be added, that all the accounts concur in representing, +that the stream of the Congo is of a more uniform height, and subject to +much less variation from the dry and rainy seasons, than any tropical +river which is known; and that on a comparison with such rivers, it may +be considered to be _in a perpetual state of flood_. The average +rising of the Ganges in the rainy season is stated by Major Rennell to be +31 feet, being about the same with that of the Nile; whereas, the +difference between the highest point of the Congo about February, and the +lowest in September, is only about nine feet; and the river, at the +latter period, has all the appearance to a stranger of being in full +flood. + +[Footnote: MS. Letter of Mr. Maxwell to Mr. Park, Oct. 12, 1804.] + +It is this remarkable peculiarity, which distinguishes the Congo from +other great rivers of a similar description, and which leads to important +conclusions with regard to its origin and course. + +In support, then, of the hypothesis which identifies the Congo with the +Niger, the following arguments, deduced from the preceding facts and +observations, may be alleged:--1. The great magnitude of the Congo. 2. +The probability that this river is derived from very remote sources, +perhaps considerably north of the equator. 3. The fact, that there exists +a great river north of the equator, (the Niger,) of which the termination +is unknown, and which may, perhaps, form the principal branch of the +Congo. These, in truth, are the only grounds upon which the present +supposition can be fairly said to rest. Arguments founded upon +etymological conjectures, supposed resemblances of names, or affinity of +languages, &c. &c., are, for the most part, too arbitrary and fanciful, +and liable to too much uncertainty to be entitled to any place in +disquisitions of this nature. The same remark is applicable to the +narratives and descriptions given by native travellers and merchants, +and, in general, to all _African evidence_ whatever, except when +supported by collateral proof from other less exceptionable sources. + +Such being the evidence in favour of the hypothesis respecting the Congo, +the objections against this theory must be admitted to be weighty and +formidable. The principal of these are, 1. That it supposes the course of +the Niger to lie through the vast chain of the _Kong_ Mountains +(anciently _Montes Lunæ_), the great central belt of Africa. Of the +existence of these mountains there appears to be no doubt; and from their +situation in the midst of a great continent, they may reasonably be +supposed to be of vast size and extent; in which case it is difficult to +understand, how the Niger could penetrate this barrier, and force a +passage southwards. 2. The course of the Niger, estimated from its source +in the mountains of Senegal (supposing it to be the same river with the +Congo, and to flow by Wangara and Cashna through the centre of Africa +into the Atlantic), would be considerably more than 4000 miles. But the +course of the Amazon, the greatest river in the old or new world with +which we are acquainted, is only about 3500 miles; and, although the +existence of a river considerably greater than any yet known, may be +within the limits of physical possibility; yet, so improbable a +supposition ought not to be adopted upon slight or conjectural reasoning, +or upon any thing much short of distinct and positive proof. To give such +a vast extension to the Congo upon the grounds stated by Mr. Maxwell, +might justly be considered as one of those exaggerations, to which, +according to a remark of D'Anville, geographical writers upon Africa have +always been remarkably prone, 'en abusant, pour ainsi dire, du vaste +carrière que l'intérieur de l'Afrique y laissoit prendre.' (Mém. de +l'Academie des Inscriptions, Tom. xxvi p. 61.) + +[Footnote: The following scale (taken from Major Rennell's Memoir of a +Map of Hindostan, p. 337,) shewing the _proportional length_ of some +of the most considerable rivers already known, may be useful to the +reader on the present occasion. + +EUROPE. +Thames 1 +Rhine 5-1/4 +Danube 7 +Wolga 9-1/2 + +ASIA. +Indus 6-3/4 +Euphrates 8-1/2 +Ganges 9-1/2 +Burrampooter 9-1/2 +Ava 9-1/2 +Jennisca 10 + +ASIA CONTINUED. +Oby 10-1/2 +Amoor 11 +Lena 11-1/2 +Hoanho (China) 13-1/2 +Kian Keu 15-1/2 + +AFRICA. +Nile l2-1/2 + +AMERICA. +Mississipi 8 +Amazon 15-3/4 + +It must be observed, however, that the _magnitude_ of a river +depends much less upon the length of its course than upon the number of +auxiliary streams which fall into it. It is this latter circumstance, +which occasions the vast size of the Ganges, compared, for example, with +the Nile; although the course of the latter is so much longer. Rivers not +fed by auxiliary streams, may even become _smaller_ in consequence +of the length of their course. The editor is indebted for these +observations to Major Rennell.] + +Before the editor finally dismisses the subject of the Congo, he may be +allowed to express a hope that this distinguished river, which hitherto +has been only known as one of the greatest marts of the Slave Trade, may +at length be rendered conducive to objects of civilization and science; +and that some use will now be made of this great inlet into Africa, for +the purpose of exploring a part of that continent which as yet is +entirely unknown; or, at least, of obtaining more complete and authentic +information relative to the Congo itself, which must unquestionably be +considered as a very curious and interesting subject of enquiry. Such an +enterprise, according to the opinion of Mr. Maxwell, would not be +attended with much difficulty. In a letter to Mr. Park, dated Oct. 12, +1804, alluding to the subject of the Congo, he speaks of an intention +which he had formed some time prior to Park's discoveries, of exploring +that river. His scheme was to carry out with him from England six +supernumerary boats, well adapted for rowing and sailing; each being of +such a size as to be easily carried by thirty people, and transported +across several cataracts, with which the course of the river is known to +be impeded. On his arrival at the coast, he meant to hire about thirty or +forty black rowers, and to sail up the Congo with proper arms, +provisions, and merchandize, in the month of May (the dry season south of +the equator) calculating upon an absence from the coast of about ten +weeks. Mr. Maxwell considered this scheme as perfectly practicable, and +likely to be attended with no very great expense; but he was prevented +from executing his intention by the war of 1793, which made it +inconvenient and unsafe for him to encumber the deck of his vessel with +supernumerary boats. + +IV. The fourth and last opinion respecting the termination of the Niger, +is that of a German geographer, M. Reichard, which was published in the +'Ephemerides Géographiques,' at Weimar, in August, 1808, and is referred +to in a respectable French work, entitled, 'Précis de la Géographie +Universelle, par M. Malte-brun.' The fourth volume of this work, which +appeared at Paris in the year 1813, (p. 635) represents M. Reichard's +hypothesis to be, that the Niger, after reaching Wangara, takes a +direction towards the south, and being joined by other rivers from that +part of Africa, makes a great turn from thence towards the south-west, +and pursues its course till it approaches the north eastern extremity of +the gulph of Guinea, when it divides and discharges itself by different +channels into the Atlantic; after having formed a great Delta, of which +the Rio del Rey constitutes the eastern, and the Rio Formoso, or Benin +River, the western branch. + +Without entering into the details of M. Reichard's reasoning in support +of this hypothesis, which is often somewhat hazardous and uncertain, it +may be sufficient for the present purpose to observe, that his principal +argument is founded on a consideration of the peculiar character +belonging to the tract of country situated between the two rivers, which +consists of a vast tract of low, level land, projecting considerably into +the sea, and intersected by an infinity of small branches from the +principal rivers. In these and other respects, it appears to bear a +considerable resemblance, according to the best descriptions of that +coast which we possess, to the Deltas at the mouths of the Nile, the +Ganges, and such other great rivers, as by depositing large quantities of +alluvial matter previous to their discharge into the sea, form gradual +additions to the coast. For it may be proper in this place to remark, +that the formation of Deltas, even by rivers of the first magnitude, is +by no means universal; some of the greatest that are known being without +them. Of this the Amazon, Plata, and Oronoko are mentioned by Major +Rennell as distinguished instances; to which may now be added, the Congo. +The difference appears to be owing to the depth of the sea at the mouth +of the rivers, and perhaps to other circumstances, which are not quite +understood. + +[Footnote: See Reunell's Geogr. System of Herodotus, 4to. p. 483.] + +Both of the two rivers, enclosing the great alluvial tract which has been +described (the Rio del Rey and the Formoso), are stated to be of +considerable size, being each of them seven or eight miles broad at the +mouth; and the supposed Delta, estimated by the line of coast, is much +larger than that of the Ganges: consequently, the two streams, if united, +must form a river of prodigious magnitude. But neither of the rivers has +ever yet been explored; nor has the interior of the country, to any +distance from the coast, been accurately described by any European +traveller. Hence, the question whether the two rivers are ever really +united, and whether the tract in question is a complete Delta or not, +still remains to be ascertained. With regard also to the course, or even +the existence, of the great river to which this Delta is said to belong, +and which M. Reichard supposes to come from the northeast of Africa, +there is no tradition nor any vestige among travellers or geographical +writers; the whole is purely conjectural. But the supposition, so far at +least as relates to the alluvial origin of the tract in question and the +junction of the two rivers, has great appearance of probability. + +On comparing Mr. Maxwell's hypothesis respecting the Niger with that of +M. Reichard, which we are now considering, the latter may be said to have +gained something in point of probability, by diminishing the distance +which the Niger has to flow in order to reach the Atlantic. But the +length of its course, even when thus reduced, is still a considerable +difficulty, and a great incumbrance on the hypothesis. The objection +arising from the Niger's being conceived to penetrate the Kong Mountains, +seems to be nearly of equal weight in both cases, on the supposition that +this vast chain of mountains is of the extent generally imagined; which +there appears to be no reason to doubt. + +It may be mentioned as an objection to both of these hypotheses, that no +traces whatever of the Mahometan doctrines or institutions are now to be +found on either of the coasts where the Niger is supposed to terminate. +In no part of the world has the spirit of enterprise and proselytism, +which properly belongs to the Mahometan character, been more strikingly +displayed than in the extensive regions of North Africa. Its effects are +every where conspicuous, not only in the religious belief of the greater +part of the inhabitants; but even where Mahometism is not actually +established, in their manners, and customs, and in the predominance of +the Arabic language, which is almost every where grafted upon the native +African dialects. These circumstances, however, are peculiar to North +Africa; nothing of a similar kind having been remarked on the coast of +Guinea, and still less on that of Congo and Angola. Mr. Maxwell also +states in a letter to Mr. Park, that he had made enquiries of a great +number of negroes who had come down the Congo from great distances; but +that he could never hear of any Mahometan priests having visited the +countries on the banks of that river. Supposing the Niger really to flow +through the centre of Africa, and to discharge itself any where into the +Atlantic, it is reasonable to believe that some of the Mahometan +colonists must long since have established themselves on the banks of +that river, and penetrated to the shores of the ocean. + + + + +APPENDIX. No. V. + + +The botanical specimens, mentioned in Park's letter, arrived safe in +England, and were received by Sir Joseph Banks, by whose kind information +the editor is enabled to add the following particulars concerning them. + +1. _Fang Jani,_ or self-burning tree. The specimens received under +this name, were branches of a species of _Pandanus,_ which, for want +of the parts of fructification, could not be ascertained. The shoots and +bases of the leaves were black and withered, resembling in appearance +leaves and branches that had been subjected to the action of fire. The +leaves, however, above their bases, were green, although dry. On a closer +examination, those parts which appeared like charcoal, were found to +differ entirely from that substance, as they would not give a black +colour to paper when rubbed upon it. Besides, it was wholly incredible +that the young shoots and bases of the leaves should break out into a +blaze, while the tops of the leaves, far less succulent than the young +shoots, remained quite free from fire, not being even singed in the +smallest degree. + +On a more careful examination, the black colour appeared to be occasioned +by a disease in the plant, of the nature of the mildew or rust of corn, +arising from a parasitic fungus, probably of the nature of the +_Puccinia_ of Europe; the species of which could not be ascertained +on account of the advanced state of growth of the specimen. This +explanation accords very ill with the declarations of the negroes, who +affirm, that they have often seen fires in the woods, occasioned by the +spontaneous burning of these shrubs; but it is mentioned in Mr. Park's +letter, 'that _few_ of the natives had seen it actually burning.' + +2. _Kino._ The origin of this drug, long ago admitted into the +Pharmacopoeias of Europe, was unknown, till Mr. Park sent a specimen of +the plant from which the negroes collect it, which proves to be a species +of _Pterocarpus_ not yet described by any botanical writer. + +3. _Tribo_. As no part of the plant was sent except the root, +nothing can be said concerning its species. It appeared to be a +moderately good dye, but had no marked superiority over those already +known, sufficient to induce Sir Joseph Banks to cause experiments to be +made with it. Indeed, the quantity was not sufficient for any +experiments, except on a very confined scale. + + + + +APPENDIX. No. VI. + + +The following particulars, tending to shew the increase which has taken +place in the commerce between Great Britain and Africa since the +Abolition of the Slave Trade, have been communicated to the editor by an +intelligent friend, who has great knowledge and experience in the African +trade, and upon whose accuracy and means of information he has the most +perfect reliance. + +It appeared from Custom-house returns, officially laid before Parliament, +that the average annual value of all imports from Africa into Great +Britain for twenty years prior to 1787, fell short of £72,000; and even +this small sum included the imports, not only from the whole Western +coast of Africa between Cape Negro in latitude 16 deg South and the +straits of Gibraltar, but also from some parts bordering on the +Mediterranean. The average annual value of these imports, during the last +five years of that period, viz. 1783, 4, 5, 6 and 7, appears, from the +same official returns, to have been about £90,500. If from this amount be +deducted the value of the articles appearing to have been imported from +Morocco and other adjoining countries, there will be left somewhat less +than £70,000 for the value of all our imports from the Western Coast of +Africa; that is, from the country lying between Cape Blanco, latitude 21 +deg north, and Cape Negro, latitude 16 deg south, being an extent of 4500 +miles of coast. The average annual exports from Great Britain to the +Western coast of Africa during the same period (exclusive of the exports +connected with the Slave Trade) may be estimated at a sum not materially +exceeding £50,000. + +The compiler of the present statement possesses no documents or means of +information, which enable him to shew what was the extent of the commerce +of Great Britain with Africa (unconnected with the Slave Trade) during +the period from 1788 to 1807, the year in which the Slave Trade was +abolished; but there is good reason to believe that it had not materially +increased within that time. + +It might be impracticable at present, from the loss of the Custom-house +books, to obtain any authentic account of exports and imports during the +last seven years. But this defect of official information is in some +degree supplied by an authentic statement, made out on a particular +occasion by a Committee of the African Company, from accounts with which +they were furnished from the Custom-house, through the intervention of +Government. The object of the Company in obtaining these accounts was to +procure authentic data relative to some public measure which was in +agitation, connected with the African trade. The following statement was +extracted from the books of the Company. + +Imports from Africa into Great Britain. + +1808. £374,306 +1809. 383,926 +1810. 535,577 + +[Sidenote: exclusive of gold dust, which is not subject to any +custom-house entry] + +Exports from Great Britain to Africa. + +1808. £820,194 +1809. 976,872 +1810. 693,911 + +The great difference between the value of the exports and imports in this +case was accounted for by an experienced officer of the African Company +by supposing that a large proportion (from one third to a half) of the +goods exported, was captured by the enemy. If this be the true +explanation, the account must have been balanced by the exports of gold +dust, and the bills of exchange drawn from the British settlements on the +African coast. Another supposition (and perhaps a more probable one) is +that a considerable part of the exports found their way into the hands of +the contraband slave traders, and was employed in carrying on their +illegal speculations. + +But, even if we consider the imports alone, the increase in the commerce +of Africa during the before mentioned period is altogether astonishing; +so much so, as almost to induce a suspicion that there is some fallacy in +the statement, although there does not appear to be any specific ground +for questioning its correctness. For if to the amount of the imports as +above stated, we add the value of the gold dust imported, we shall find +that this additional commerce nearly fills up the chasm occasioned by the +Abolition of the slave trade, extensively as that trade was carried on by +this country. + +But considering this statement only as a general proof of a great +increase of the African trade, (without attempting to assign the +proportion of increase) let us take another view of the same subject. + +The Gold Coast is about 250 miles in extent, little more than a twentieth +part of the whole coast extending from Cape Blanco to Cape Negro. +Previously to the Abolition of the slave trade, the imports into Great +Britain from this space of coast used to consist of + + about 20 tons of ivory valued at --- £7500 + and about 1000 ounces of gold dust --- 4000 + --- £11500 + +Since the Abolition of the slave trade the imports from this tract of +coast have greatly increased; and it may be stated upon the undoubted +authority of intelligent persons, perfectly acquainted with the facts, +that the importations have amounted, during the last five or six years, +to the annual value of from £120,000. to £180,000. The annual import of +gold alone is stated to be about 30,000 ounces. + +Thus it appears that the importation from the Gold Coast alone, (a space +of 250 miles) into Great Britain since the Abolition of the slave trade, +has been double the amount of the importation from the whole slave coast +of Africa (an extent of 4500 miles) prior to that event. + +A farther example may be taken from the colony of Sierra Leone, where a +custom house was first established in May 1812; from whence accounts have +been furnished of the imports and exports into and from that colony +during the two years ending in May 1814.--The amount of the imports +during that period, on which duties were actually paid, was £105,080. +15_s_. 3_d_. being the alleged prime cost of the goods, even +without the cost of packages. In order to obtain the invoice price of the +goods, one third at least must be added to the prime cost for necessary +charges. The amount will then be about £140,000., or, on an average, +£70,000. annually. + +The exports from Sierra Leone during the same period have amounted to +£91,539. 17_s_. 6_d_. being on an average £45,000. annually. +The remainder of imports may be accounted for by the bills of exchange +drawn upon this country for the expenses of the civil establishment and +commissariat. Hence it appears that from the single river of Sierra Leone +the imports into Great Britain were nearly, and the exports to the same +river fully, equal to the imports and exports (exclusive of the slave +trade) of the whole extent of the Western Coast of Africa prior to the +Abolition. + +The facts here stated relative to the extent of our innocent and +legitimate commerce with the western coast of Africa, must be considered +as highly interesting and important; both as shewing how extremely small +that commerce was prior to the Abolition of the slave trade, and how much +it has increased during the very few years which have since elapsed. This +increase has certainly been much more considerable than there was any +good reason for expecting, under the actual circumstances of the case. + +If we were told of a country, whose staple article of export trade +consisted of its own inhabitants, its men, women and children, who were +procured (as must necessarily happen in the case of large and continued +exports) by treachery and violence--where the whole population was either +living in continual apprehension of captivity and eternal banishment from +their native soil, or employed contriving the means of inflicting those +evils upon others--we should at once conclude that the very insecurity of +person and property, which such a state of society implied, would of +itself extinguish all the motives to regular industry, and limit the +culture of the soil very nearly to what was required for supplying the +immediate wants of nature. + +Such in fact were the circumstances of Africa prior to the year 1808; at +which time the slave trade carried on by Great Britain, and the United +States of North America having been abolished by those respective +governments, and the slave trade of France and Holland being virtually +abolished by the war, a considerable mitigation of the prevailing evils +took place. A farther improvement was effected about three years +afterwards, by means of the article in the treaty of amity with Portugal, +which bound Portuguese subjects to confine their trading in slaves to +places in Africa actually under the possession of that Government. By +this arrangement the whole coast of Africa from Cape Blanco to the +eastern extremity of the Gold Coast (with the exception of the Portuguese +settlement of Bissao) were in a considerable degree liberated from the +operation of the slave trade. + +The Spaniards indeed claimed a right of trading within those limits; but +it was a right which, in its exercise, did not prove so prejudicial as +might have been expected. The slave trade carried on under the Spanish +flag, has been found in most instances not to be a _bona fide_ +Spanish trade, but a British or American slave trade in disguise; and +latterly the Portuguese, being excluded by treaty from the whole to the +windward coast except Bissao, have begun to avail themselves of the same +disguise. Many slave vessels under these circumstances, bearing the +Spanish flag, have been captured by the British cruizers: and the +condemnations which have taken place, have tended greatly to abridge the +extent of this trade. Still however the course of improvement in this +part of Africa, has been extremely retarded by the right which Portugal +has hitherto retained of carrying on the slave trade from Bissao, and by +the trade carried on either by real Spanish ships or by counterfeit +Spaniards so well disguised as to escape detection. + +Besides the trade thus carried on, cargoes of slaves have frequently been +smuggled by English and American traders, availing themselves of the +facilities which the creeks and rivers of Africa afford for such +transactions, and taking their chance of escaping the cruizers on the +coast. A contraband trade of this kind appears to have been carried on to +some extent; by means of which various cargoes of slaves have been +transported to the Brazils and the Island of Cuba. + +These facts are mentioned for the purpose of shewing that considerable +obstacles to improvement, arising from the partial continuance of the +slave trade, are still experienced, even in that part of Africa which has +enjoyed the greatest privileges and exemptions. Under such circumstances +it would be most unreasonable to look for that progress in the arts of +agriculture and peace-commerce which we should have been entitled to +expect, in case the suppression of the slave trade had been complete and +universal. + +But even under much more favourable circumstances than we have reason at +present to expect, it would by no means follow that the mere removal of +that great obstacle to regular industry and commerce, would in any very +short space of time produce considerable or extensive improvements. The +ignorance, the profligacy, the improvidence and the various other moral +evils, which necessarily accompany the slave trade, will, it is to be +feared, long survive the extinction of that traffic which produced and +fostered them. The whole history of mankind shews that the progress of +civilization is always extremely slow during its earliest stages; and +that the first steps in the career of improvement are constantly the most +painful and difficult. Hence, we may be justified in drawing the most +favourable conclusions from the comparatively great increase which has +already taken place in the commerce of Africa during a very short period, +in consequence of a partial removal of those evils, which previously had +almost excluded the very possibility of improvement. + +_The following_ African Words _occurring frequently in the course +of the ensuing Journal, it is thought proper to prefix an explanation of +them_. + + * * * * * + +_Bentang_, a sort of stage erected in every town, answering the +purpose of a town hall. + +_Slatees_, free black merchants, often traders in slaves. + +_Caffle_, a caravan of slaves or of people travelling with any kind +of merchandize. + +_Dooty_, the chief magistrate of a town or province. + +_Palaver_, A court of justice, or public meeting; some times a parly +or negociation. + +_Bar_, nominal money; a single bar is equal in value to about two +shillings sterling. + +_Kowries_, small shells which pass for money in the Interior of +Africa. + +_Barraloolo_, a fowling--piece. + +_Arrangoes_, a large kind of bead. + +_Baft_, blue cloth of East Indian manufacture, much used in the +African Trade. + +_Pagne_, a kind of cloth, also much used in the same trade. + +[Illustration: Map] + +[Illustration: Map] + + + + +JOURNAL &c. + + + + +Chapter I + + +Departure from Kayee--Arrival at Pisania--Preparations there, and +departure into the Interior--Samee--Payment to Mumbo Jumbo--Reach Jindey; +process of dying cottons at that place--Departure from Jindey--Cross the +Wallia Creek--Kootakunda--Madina--Tabajang--Kingdom of Jamberoo--Visit +from the King's son--Tatticonda--Visit from the son of the former King of +Woolli--Reach Madina, the capital of Woolli--Audience of the King; his +unfriendly conduct--Presents made to him and his courtiers--Barraconda +--Bambakoo--Kanipe; inhospitable conduct of its inhabitants--Kussai +--Nitta--trees; restrictions relating to them--Enter the Simbani Woods; +precautions thereon, and sacrifice and prayers for success--Banks of the +Gambia--Crocodiles and hippopotami--Reach Faraba-Loss of one of the +soldiers--Rivers Neaulico and Nerico--Astronomical observations. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +April 27th, 1805.--At ten o'clock in the morning took our departure from +Kayee. The _Crescent_, the _Washington_ and Mr. Ainsley's +_vessel_ did us the honour to fire a salute at our departure. The +day proved remarkably hot; and some of the asses being unaccustomed to +carry loads, made our march very fatiguing and troublesome. Three of them +stuck fast in a muddy rice field about two miles east of Kayee; and while +we were employed in getting them out, our guide and the people in front +had gone on so far, that we lost sight of them. In a short time we +overtook about a dozen soldiers and their asses, who had likewise fallen +behind, and being afraid of losing their way, had halted till we came up. +We in the rear took the road to Jonkakonda, which place we reached at one +o'clock; but not finding Lieutenant Martyn nor any of the men who were in +front, concluded they had gone by New Jermy, &c., therefore hired a guide +and continued our march. Halted a few minutes under a large tree at the +village of Lamain-Cotto, to allow the soldiers to cool themselves; and +then proceeded towards _Lamain_, at which place we arrived at four +o'clock. The people were extremely fatigued, having travelled all day +under a vertical sun, and without a breath of wind. Lieutenant Martyn and +the rest of our party arrived at half past five, having taken the road by +New Jermy. + +On our arrival at Lamain we unloaded the asses under a large Bentang tree +on the east side of the town. The Slatee (or master of that district of +the kingdom of Kataba, called Lamain) came to pay his respects to me, and +requested that I would order the bundles and asses to be removed to some +other tree; assuring me that if we slept under it, we should all be dead +before morning. I was for some time at a loss to comprehend his meaning; +when he took me by the hand, and leading me to one of the large notches +in the root of the tree, shewed me three spear-heads which appeared to +have been tinged with blood, lying with their points amongst bone-ashes, +and surrounded with a rope half burnt. I now ordered the bundles to be +removed to another tree, presented the Slatee with a keg of liquor, and +received in return a small bullock. Here we were forced to purchase +water, the wells of the town being nearly dry. Slept very comfortably +under the tree, and at day-break, + +April 28th, set out for Pisania. We passed two small Foulah towns and the +village of Collin, and reached the banks of the Gambia at half past +eleven o'clock. Halted and gave our cattle water and grass: we likewise +cooked our dinners, and rested till three o'clock, when we set forward +and arrived at Pisania at sun-set. Here we were accommodated at Mr. +Ainsley's house; and as his schooner had not yet arrived with our +baggage, I purchased some corn for our cattle, and spoke for a bullock +for the soldiers. + +April 29th.--Went and paid my respects to Seniora Camilla, who was much +surprised to see me again attempting a journey into the interior of the +country. + +[Footnote: See Park's Travels, p. 31, 357.] + +April 30th.--Mr. Ainsley's schooner arrived, and we immediately began to +land the baggage and rice. + +April 31st.--Gave out the ass saddles to be stuffed with grass, and set +about weighing the bundles. Found that after all reductions, our asses +could not possibly carry our baggage. Purchased five more with Mr. +Ainsley's assistance. + +May 1st.--Tying up the bundles and marking them. + +May 2d.--Purchased three asses, and a bullock for the people. + +May 3d.--Finished packing the loads, and got every thing ready for our +journey. + +May 4th.--Left Pisania at half past nine o'clock. The mode of marching +was adjusted as follows. The _asses_ and _loads_ being all +marked and numbered with red paint, a certain number of each was allotted +to each of the six messes, into which the soldiers were divided; and the +asses were further subdivided amongst the individuals of each mess, so +that every man could tell at first sight the ass and load which belonged +to him. The asses were also numbered with large figures, to prevent the +natives from stealing them, as they could neither wash nor clip it off +without being discovered. Mr. George Scott and one of Isaaco's people +generally went in front, Lieutenant Martyn in the centre, and Mr. +Anderson and myself in the rear. We were forced to leave at Pisania about +five cwt. of rice, not having a sufficient number of asses to carry it. +We were escorted till we passed Tendicunda by Mr. Ainsley, and the good +old Seniora Camilla, and most of the respectable natives in the vicinity. +Our march was most fatiguing. Many of the asses being rather overloaded, +lay down on the road; others kicked off their bundles; so that, after +using every exertion to get forward, we with difficulty reached Samee, a +distance of about eight miles. We unloaded our asses under a large Tabba +tree at some distance from the town, and in the evening I went with +Isaaco to pay my respects to the Slatee of Samee. + +The Slatee of Samee, as well as the Slatees of Lamain and Kutijar, is +subject to the King of Kataba; but their subjection is not easily +defined. If a slave runs away from one to another, he cannot be reclaimed +unless the other chooses to give him up. The Slatee was very drunk, and +when I told him that I was come to pay my respects to him and would give +him one jug of rum, he told me he would not allow me to pass unless I +gave him ten jugs; and after a good deal of insignificant palaver, I was +obliged to give him two jugs. + +May 5th.--Paid six bars of amber to the Mumbo Jumbo boys, and set out for +Jindey early in the morning. Found this day's travelling very difficult; +many of the asses refused to go on; and we were forced to put their loads +on the horses. We reached Jindey about noon. Purchased a bullock, and +halted the 6th; fearing, if we attempted to proceed, we should be forced +to leave some of our loads in the woods. + +[Footnote: For a description of Mumbo Jumbo, see Park's Travels, p. 39.] + +At Jindey they _dye very fine blues with the indigo leaves_. I +readily embraced the opportunity, during our halt, to make myself +acquainted with the process, which I saw in all its different stages. + +_Mode of dying Cotton of a fine blue colour with the leaves of the +Indigo Plant._ + +A large quantity of wood-ashes is collected (the woods preferred for the +purpose are the _mimosa nitta_, and _mimosa pulverulenta_,) and +put into an unglazed earthen vessel which has a hole in its bottom; over +which is put some straw. Upon these ashes water is poured, which, +filtrating through the hole in the bottom of the vessel, carries with it +the potass contained in the ashes, and forms a very strong lye of the +colour of strong beer: this lye they call _sai-gee_, ash-water. + +Another pot is filled not quite quarter full of the leaves of the indigo +plant, either fresh or dried in the sun (those used at this time were +dried), and as much of the sai-gee poured on it as will fill the pot +about half full. It is allowed to remain in this state for four days, +during which it is stirred once or twice each day. + +The pot is then filled nearly full of sai-gee and stirred frequently for +four days more, during which it ferments and throws up a copper-coloured +scum. It is then allowed to remain at rest for one day, and on the tenth +day from the commencement of the process the cloth is put into it. No +mordant whatever is used; the cloth is simply wetted with cold water, and +wrung hard before it is put into the pot, where it is allowed to remain +about two hours. It is then taken out and exposed to the sun, by laying +it (without spreading it) over a stick, till the liquor ceases to drop +from it. After this it is washed in cold water, and is often beat with a +flat stick to clear away any leaves or dirt which may adhere to it. The +cloth being again wrung hard, is returned into the pot; and this dipping +is repeated four times every day for the first four days; at the end of +which period it has in common acquired a blue colour equal to the finest +India baft. + +The Negro women, who practise dying, have generally twelve or fourteen +indigo jars, so that one of them is always ready for dipping. If the +process misgives, which it very seldom does with women who practise it +extensively, it generally happens during the second four days or the +fermenting period. The indigo is then said to be dead, and the whole is +thrown out. + +In Kajaaga and Kasson they spread the cloth in the sun, and dry it after +every dip: they then beat it with a stick, so as to make the indigo +leaves fly off it like dust. Both practices have for their object the +_clearing of the cloth_, so as to admit the indigo equally to all +parts of it. The process abridged is, + +Four days indigo and a small quantity of sai-gee. + +Four days fermenting in a large quantity of sai-gee. + +One day at rest. + +Four days dipping the cloth, four dips per day. + +Thirteen in all. + +To return to the narrative. Lamina Foffono, one of my fellow travellers +in my former journey from Mandingo to Gambia, hearing that I was come to +Jindey, came from Wallia to see me. He told me that Karfa was in health, +but had not received the musket I sent him by Captain Brand. + +At five o'clock had a strong puff of wind from the south-east, which +raised the dust and had exactly the appearance of a tornado. + +May 7th.--Left Jindey, but so much were our asses fatigued, that I was +obliged to hire three more, and four drivers to assist in getting forward +the baggage. One of the St. Jago asses fell down convulsed when the load +was put upon him; and a Mandingo ass, No. 11, refused to carry his load. +I was under the necessity of sending him back to Jindey, and hiring +another in his place. + +We travelled on the north side of the Wallia Creek till noon, when we +crossed it near Kootakunda. Swam the asses over; and the soldiers, with +the assistance of the Negroes, waded over with the bundles on their +heads. Halted on the south side of the creek, and cooked our dinners. + +At four o'clock set forwards, passed Kootakunda, and called at the +village of Madina to pay my respects to Slatee Bree. Gave him a note on +Mr. Ainsley for one jug of liquor. Halted at Tabajang, a village almost +deserted; having been plundered in the course of the season by the King +of Jamberoo, in conjunction with the King of Woolli. Our guide's mother +lives here; and as I found that we could not possibly proceed in our +present state, I determined either to purchase more asses, or abandon +some of the rice. + +May 8th.--Purchased two asses for ten bars of amber and ten of coral +each. Covered the India bafts with skins, to prevent them from being +damaged by the rain. Two of the soldiers afflicted with the dysentery. + +May 9th.--The King of Jamberoo's son came to pay his respects to me. +Jamberoo lies along the north side of the Wallia Creek, and extends a +long way to the northward. The people are Jaloffs, but most of them speak +Mandingo. Presented him with some amber. Bought five asses and covered +all the gunpowder with skins, except what was for our use on the road. + +May 10th.--Having paid all the people who had assisted in driving the +asses, I found that the expense was greater than any benefit we were +likely to derive from them. I therefore trusted the asses this day +entirely to the soldiers. We left Tabajang at sun-rise, and made a short +and easy march to Tatticonda, where the son of my friend, the former King +of Woolli, came to meet me. From him I could easily learn that our +journey was viewed with great jealousy by the Slatees and Sierra-Woollis +residing about Madina. + +May 11th.--About noon arrived at Madina, the capital of the kingdom of +Woolli. We unloaded our asses under a tree without the gates of the town, +and waited till five o'clock before we could have an audience from his +majesty. I took to the King a pair of silver mounted pistols, ten +dollars, ten bars of amber, ten of coral. But, when he had looked at the +present with great indifference for some time, he told me that he could +not accept it; alleging, as an excuse for his avarice, that I had given a +much handsomer present to the King of Kataba. It was in vain that I +assured him of the contrary; he positively refused to accept it, and I +was under the necessity of adding fifteen dollars, ten bars coral, ten +amber, before his majesty would accept it. After all, he begged me to +give him a blanket to wrap himself in during the rains, which I readily +sent him. + +The other presents must all be proportionally great, and the sum of the +whole presents at Woolli is as follows: + +To _the King_, + + A pair of pistols. Bars. + Dollars 25 + Amber 20 + Coral 20 + White baft 5 + --- + 70 bars. + +To Montamba _the King's own son_, + + Amber, 5 + Coral 5 + +To Slatee Deena, + + Amber 1 + Coral 5 + +To Sadoo, Jatta's son, + + Amber 5 + Coral 5 + +To Samboo, Jatta's second son, + + Coral 5 + +To Whulliri, the Prime Minister, + + Dollars 2 + Coral 5 + +To Dama, Whulliri's younger brother, + + Coral 5 + +To Soliman, the King's chief slave, Bars. + + Amber 4 + Coral 4 + +To Dimba Serra, + + Coral 6 + +To different people, + + Coral 10 + -- + 71 + + To the King, 70 + --- + Total 140 bars. + +[Footnote: There is some mistake here; what Mr. Park calls 71, appears +to be no more than 67; and even according to him, the total ought to be +141. The true amount is 67+70=137.] + +May 12th.--Had all the asses loaded by day-break, and at sun-rise, having +obtained the King's permission, we departed from Woolli. Shortly after, +we passed the town of Barraconda, where I stopped a few minutes to pay my +respects to Jemaffoo Mamadoo, a very eminent Slatee. + +[Footnote: Mentioned in Park's Travels, p. 31.] + +We reached the village of Bambakoo at half past ten o'clock. Bought two +asses, and likewise a bullock for the soldiers. + +May 13th.--Departed from Bambakoo at sun-rise, and reached Kanipe, an +irregular built village, about ten o'clock. The people of the village had +heard that we were under the necessity of purchasing water at Madina; and +to make sure of a similar market, the women had drawn all the water from +the wells, and were standing in crowds, drawing up the water as fast as +it collected. It was in vain that the soldiers attempted to come in for +their share: the camp kettles were by no means so well adapted for +drawing water as the women's calabashes. The soldiers therefore returned +without water, having the laugh very much against them. + +I received information that there was a pool of water about two miles +south of the town; and in order to make the women desist, I mounted a man +on each of the horses, and sent them away to the pool, to bring as much +water as would boil our rice, and in the afternoon sent all the asses to +be watered at the same place. In the evening some of the soldiers made +another attempt to procure water from the large well near the town, and +succeeded by the following stratagem. One of them having dropped his +canteen into the well, as if by accident, his companions fastened a rope +round him, and lowered him down to the bottom of the well, where he stood +and filled all the camp kettles, to the great mortification of the women, +who had been labouring and carrying water for the last twenty-four hours, +in hopes of having their necks and heads decked with small amber and +beads by the sale of it. Bought two goats for the soldiers. + +May 14th.--Halted at _Kussai_, about four miles east of Kanipe. This +is the same village as Seesekunda, but the inhabitants have changed its +name. Here one of the soldiers, having collected some of the fruit of the +Nitta trees, was eating them, when the chief man of the village came out +in a great rage, and attempted to take them from him; but finding that +impracticable, he drew his knife, and told us to put on our loads, and +get away from the village. Finding that we only laughed at him, he became +more quiet; and when I told him that we were unacquainted with so strange +a restriction, but should be careful not to eat any of them in future; he +said that the thing itself was not of great importance, if it had not +been done in sight of the women. For, says he, this place has been +frequently visited with famine from want of rain, and in these +distressing times the fruit of the Nitta is all we have to trust to, and +it may then be opened without harm; but in order to prevent the women and +children from wasting this supply, a _toong_ is put upon the Nittas, +until famine makes its appearance. The word toong is used to express any +thing sealed up by magic. + +Bought two asses. As we entered the Simbani woods from this town, Isaaco +was very apprehensive that we might be attacked by some of the Bondou +people, there being at this time a hot war between two brothers about the +succession: and as the report had spread that a coffle of white men were +going to the interior, every person immediately concluded that we were +loaded with the richest merchandize to purchase slaves; and that +whichever of the parties should gain possession of our wealth, he would +likewise gain the ascendency over his opponent. On this account, gave +orders to the men not to fire at any deer or game they might see in the +woods; that every man must have his piece loaded and primed, and that the +report of a musket, but more particularly of three or four, should be the +signal to leave every thing and run towards the place. + +May 15th.--Departed from Kussai. At the entrance of the woods, Isaaco +laid a black ram across the road and cut its throat, having first said a +long prayer over it. This he considered as very essential towards our +success. The flesh of the animal was given to the slaves at Kussai, that +they might pray in their hearts for our success. + +The first five miles of our route was through a woody country; we then +reached a level plain nearly destitute of wood. On this plain we observed +some hundreds of a species of antelope of a dark colour with a white +mouth; they are called by the natives _Da qui_, and are nearly as +large as a bullock. At half past ten o'clock we arrived on the banks of +the Gambia, and halted during the heat of the day under a large tree +called _Teelee Corra_, the same under which I formerly stopped in my +return from the interior. + +[Footnote: Probably the tree mentioned in Park's Travels, p. 854.] + +The Gambia here is about 100 yards across, and, contrary to what I +expected, has a regular tide, rising four inches by the shore. It was low +water this day at one o'clock. The river swarms with crocodiles. I +counted at one time thirteen of them ranged along shore, and three +hippopotami. The latter feed only during the night, and seldom leave the +water during the day; they walk on the bottom of the river, and seldom +shew more of themselves above water than their heads. + +At half past three o'clock in the afternoon, we again set forward, and +about a mile to the eastward ascended a hill, where we had a most +enchanting prospect of the country to the westward; in point of distance +it is the richest I ever saw. The course of the Gambia was easily +distinguished by a range of dark green trees, which grew on its banks. +The course from Teelee Corra is represented in the following sketch. + +[Illustration] + +A mile and a half east of Prospect hill, is another on the north side of +the road, from the top of which we had a charming view to the south. The +course of the river is from the E.S.E.; no hills on the south side of it, +the whole country being quite level. About ten miles E.S.E.; the river +passes near an elevated table land, which looks, like an old +fortification. At sun-set reached a watering place called Faraba, but +found no water. + +While we were unloading the asses, John Walters, one of the soldiers, +fell down in an epileptic fit, and expired in about an hour after. The +Negroes belonging to our guide set about digging a well, having first +lighted a fire to keep off the bees, which were swarming about the place +in search of water. In a little time they found water in sufficient +quantity to cook our suppers, and even supply the horses and asses in the +course of the night. + +Being apprehensive of an attack from the Bondou people, placed double +sentries, and made every man sleep with his loaded musket under his head. +Latitude by mer. alt. of the moon, 14° 38' 46" N. + +About three o'clock buried John Walters, and in remembrance of him wish +this place to be called _Walters's Well_. + +May 16th.--Departed from the well as soon as day dawned, and reached the +Neaulico at half past eight o'clock. This stream is nearly dry at this +season, and only affords water in certain hollow places which abound in +fish. Saw Isaaco's Negroes take several with their hands, and with wisps +of grass used as a net to frighten the fish into a narrow space. One of +the fish was a new genus. + +Saw in the bed of the river some Negroes roasting a great quantity of +flesh on temporary wooden stages erected for the purpose, as represented +in the following sketch. + +[Illustration:] + +This half roasting and smoaking makes the meat keep much longer than it +would do without it. The flesh was part of a _Da qui_ which they +found on the road; a lion had killed it during the night, and eat one leg +of it. + +At four o'clock P.M. departed from the Neaulico. At five, passed the +ruins of Mangelli, where I formerly slept, and at six o'clock halted for +the night at Manjalli Tabba Cotta, the ruins of a village so called. The +wood during this day's march is in general small, and the road is much +interrupted with dry bamboos. Plenty of water at the resting place. After +dark took out the telescope in order to observe an immersion of Jupiter's +first satellite-- + + H. M. S. + The satellite immerged by watch 14 10 35 + Rate + from London 0 5 48 + Too slow by eclipse at Kayee 0 0 5 + -------- + Mean time by watch 14 16 28 + + Time by Nautical Almanack 14 16 51 + Equation 0 3 58 + -------- + Mean time at Greenwich 14 12 53 + 14 12 53 + -------- + Watch too fast 0 3 35 + +Longitude by three sets of sights taken next morning in order to find the +apparent time at the _place_ 13° 9' 45" W. + +It is difficult to account for such a difference in the rate of going of +the watch in the course of one month; but the excessive heat and the +motion of riding may perhaps have contributed to it; for I think my +observation of the immersion was correct. + +May 17th.--Left Manjalli Tabba Cotta, and after a fatiguing march of +twelve miles, reached _Bray_, a watering place. Endeavoured to take +the meridional altitude of the sun, by the back observation with +Troughton's pocket sextant; and after carefully examining his rise and +fall, with the intervals betwixt each observation, I was convinced that +it can be done with great accuracy, requiring only a steady hand and +proper attention. This was a great relief to me; I had been plagued +watching the passage of the fixed stars, and often fell asleep when they +were in the meridian. + +We left Bray at three o'clock, P.M. and carried with us as much water as +we possibly could, intending to rest at Nillindingcorro till the moon +rose; but there being no water, our guide continued our march to the +river Nerico, which we reached at eight o'clock, all the people and asses +very much fatigued. Face of the country during this day an open and level +plain with bushes and Cibi trees, making the prospect rich, though not +grand. Saw plenty of lions' excrement in the wood: they deposit it only +in certain places, and like the cats, claw up the ground in order to +cover it. + +May 18th.--People employed all the morning in transporting the baggage +and asses across the river; and as both men and asses were very much +fatigued, I thought it best to halt on the east side of the river till +the afternoon, as it would afford the soldiers an opportunity of washing +their clothes. + + o ' " + Observed Mer. Alt. Sun 168 35 0 + Diameter 0 32 0 + --------- + 1/2 169 7 0 + --------- + 84 33 30 + Correct for refraction and parallax 4 + --------- + 84 33 26 + --------- + Zenith Distance 5 26 34 + Declination 19 31 25 + --------- + Latitude 14 4 51 + +The breadth of the stream of the river Nerico is about sixty feet, the +depth of water four feet, its velocity is two miles an hour. The heat of +the stream at two o'clock 94° Fahrenheit. + + + + +Chapter II. + + +Arrival at Jallacotta--Maheena--Tambico--Bady; hostile conduct of the +Faranba, or Chief, and its consequences--Reach Jeningalla +--Iron-furnaces.--Mansafara--Attacked by wolves--Enter the Tenda +Wilderness--Ruins and Plain of Doofroo--Attacked by a swarm of +bees--Astronomical Observations--Arrival at Sibikillin--Shea +trees--Badoo; presents made to the King--Tambacunda--Ba Deema +River--Tabba Gee--Mambari--Julifunda; unfriendly conduct of its Chief; +and presents sent to him and the King--Visit from the latter--Reach +Eercella--Baniserile--Celebrate His Majesty's birthday--Mode of fluxing +iron--Madina--Falema river--Satadoo--Sickness and death of the +Carpenter--Arrival at Shrondo; commencement of the rainy season; and +alarming sickness amongst the soldiers--Gold mines; process for +procuring the gold--Dindikoo; gold pits--Cultivation--Arrival at Fankia. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +May 18th.--We left the Nerico about half past three o'clock, and arrived +at Jallacotta, the first town of Tenda, at sun-set. From this place to +Simbuni in Bondou, is two days travel. + +May 19th.--Halted at Jallacotta in order to purchase corn and recruit the +asses. Bought plenty of onions, which made our rice eat much better. +Town's people fishing in the woods, where the pools being nearly dry, the +fish are easily taken. + +May 20.--Left Jallacotta, and about two miles to the east, passed the +village of Maheena, close to which are the ruins of another village of +the same name. It would appear from the number of ruins, that the +population of Tenda is much diminished. We reached Tendico or Tambico, +about eight o'clock: we could not procure a bullock, the inhabitants +having very few cattle. This village belongs to Jallacotta; and the +Farbana of Jallacotta is subject to the King of Woolli. About half a mile +from Tambico is a pretty large town called _Bady_, the chief of +which takes the title of Faranba, and is in a manner independent. He +exacts very high duties from the coffles, to the extent of ten bars of +gunpowder for each ass-load. + +We sent a messenger from Tambico to inform the Faranba of our arrival, +and he sent his son in the evening with twenty-six men armed with +musquets, and a great crowd of people, to receive what we had to give +him. Sent him ten bars of amber by our guide; but as he refused to take +it, went myself with five bars of coral, which he likewise refused. +Indeed I could easily perceive from the number of armed men, and the +haughty manner in which they conducted themselves, that there was little +prospect of settling matters in an amicable manner. I therefore tore a +leaf from my pocket-book, and had written a note to Lieutenant Martyn to +have the soldiers in readiness; when Mr. Anderson, hearing such a hubbub +in the village, came to see what was the matter. I explained my doubts to +him, and desired that the soldiers might have on their pouches and +bayonets, and be ready for action at a moment's notice. I desired Isaaco +to inform him that we had as yet found no difficulty in our journey; we +had readily obtained the permission of the kings of Kataba and Woolli to +pass through their kingdoms, and that if he would not allow us to pass, +we had then only to return to Jallacotta, and endeavour to find another +road; and with this (after a good many angry words had passed between the +Faranba's people and our guide) the palaver ended. + +Matters were in this state, Faranba's son had gone over to Bady with the +amber and coral, and we were preparing to return to Jallacotta early next +morning, when about half past six o'clock some of Faranba's people seized +our guide's horse, as the boy was watering it at the well, and carried it +away. Isaaco went over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct; but +instead of satisfying him on this point, they seized him, took his double +barrelled gun and sword from him, tied him to a tree and flogged him; and +having put his boy in irons, sent some people back to Tambico for another +horse belonging to an old man that was travelling with us to Dentila. I +now told two of Isaaco's Negroes, that if they would go with me into the +village, and point out the Faranba's people (it being quite dark) who had +come to take the old man's horse, I would make the soldiers seize them, +and retain them as hostages for Isaaco. They went and told this to the +two chief men in the village, but they would not permit it. They were +able, they said, to defend their own rights, and would not allow the +horse to be taken: so after an immense hubbub and wrangling, the business +at last came to blows, and the Faranba's people were fairly kicked out of +the village. + +I was now a little puzzled how to act; Isaaco's wife and child sat crying +with us under the tree, his Negroes were very much dejected, and seemed +to consider the matter as quite hopeless. We could have gone in the night +and burnt the town. By this we should have killed a great many innocent +people, and most probably should not have recovered our guide. I +therefore thought it most advisable (having consulted with Mr. Anderson +and Lieutenant Martyn) to wait till morning; and then, if they persisted +in detaining our guide, to attack them in open day; a measure which would +be more decisive, and more likely to be attended with success than any +night skirmishes. We accordingly placed double sentries during the night, +and made every man sleep with his loaded musquet at hand. We likewise +sent two people back to Jallacotta, to inform the Dooty of the treatment +we had received from Faranba, though at one of the towns belonging to the +King of Woolli. + +May 21st.--Early in the morning our guide was liberated, and sent back to +us; and about ten o'clock a number of Faranba's people came and told me +that Faranba did not wish to quarrel with me, but could not think of +allowing a coffle to pass without paying the customary tribute; but as I +had refused to do that the evening before, if I would now carry over to +Bady such articles as I meant to give him, every thing would be amicably +settled. I told them that, after the treatment my guide had experienced, +they could not expect that I would go to Bady alone; that if I went I +would take twenty or thirty of my people with me. This seemed not so +agreeable; and it was at last determined that the horse, &c. should be +brought half way between the two villages, and delivered on receipt of +the goods. I accordingly paid at different times goods to the amount of +one hundred and six bars, being not quite one-third of what a coffle of +Negroes would have paid. Faranba's people still kept our guide's gun and +sword; alleging, that they were sent away in the night to Bisra, a town +in the neighbourhood, but would be sent after us as soon as the person +returned who had gone in quest of them. We accordingly departed from +Tambico about three o'clock, and halted for the night at Jeningalla near +Bufra, or Kabatenda, where I formerly slept; my former landlord brought +me a large calabash of milk. + + o ' " +Mer. Alt. Tambico 166 56 0 +Diam. 0 32 0 + -------- + 1/2 167 28 0 + -------- + 83 44 0 + -------- +Zenith Distance 6 16 0 +Decl. 20 9 0 + -------- +Latitude 13 53 0 + ======== + +May 22d.--Halted at Jeningalla to purchase corn for our asses. Went and +saw some iron-furnaces; they are smaller at the top than those of +Manding, thus: + +[Illustration] + +The distance being very great between this place and the next water, we +resolved to travel it by moonlight, and accordingly we left Jeningalla. + +May 23d, at two o'clock in the morning, and at eight o'clock reached +Nealo Koba. At the same place where I formerly crossed, the river is not +flowing, but stands in pools, some of which are deep and swarming with +fish. Oysters large, but of a greenish colour; did not eat any of them. +About two o'clock resumed our journey, and at sun-set reached a small +Foula village; all very much fatigued, having travelled twenty-eight +miles. + +May 24th.--Halted at Mansafara, which is only four miles east of the +Foula village. This consists of three towns, quite contiguous to each +other; and near them is a large pool of water. From this town to the +village of Nittakorra on the north bank of the Gambia is only eight miles +due south. Bought corn for the asses in crossing the Samakara woods, and +a bullock for the people. Much lightning to the south-east, and thunder. +Got all the bundles covered with grass, &c. During the night the wolves +killed one of our best asses within twenty yards of the place where Mr. +Anderson and I slept. + +May 25th.--Left Mansafara, and entered the Tenda or Samakara wilderness. +About four miles to the east passed the ruins of _Koba_, where I +formerly slept. The town was destroyed by the Bondou people about two +years ago, and the Bentang tree burnt down. At ten passed a stream like +the Neaulico, running to the Gambia; and shortly after came in sight of +the first range of hills, running from S. S. W. to N. N. E., we came near +them; and at half past eleven halted at Sooteetabba, a watering place +within a mile of the hills. + +[Footnote: Called Koba Tenda in Park's Travels, p. 353.] + + ' " + Obser. Merid. Alt. 164 45 0 + --------- + 82 22 30 + 0 16 0 + --------- + 82 38 30 + Diff. par. and ref. 0 0 7 + --------- + 82 38 23 + + ' " + Zenith Distance 7 21 37 + Decl. 20 65 10 + Latitude 13 33 33 + +Departing from Sooteetabba as soon as the heat of the day was over, we +crossed the first range of hills. Mr. Anderson and I ascended the top of +one of the hills, which from the amazing fine prospect all round, I have +named Panorama Hill; it has a sugar-loaf looking top, with a number of +wolf-holes in it. The route across the hill, though very difficult for +the asses, was extremely beautiful. In the evening we descended into a +romantic valley, where we found plenty of water, being one of the remote +branches of Nealo Koba. There was plenty of fish in the pools; but they +were too deep to catch them with the hands. Close to the stream are the +ruins of the village of Doofroo, destroyed by the Dentila people some +time ago. This is considered as an excellent place for shooting +elephants; we saw the fresh dung and feet marks of many of them near the +stream. Watched for an eclipse of Jupiter's first satellite, but the +planet became clouded. + +May 26th.--At day-break ascended from the plain of Doofroo, and travelled +over a rugged country, till ten o'clock, when we met a coffle (at a +watering place called _Sootinimma_) bound for Gambia to redeem a +person who had been caught for a debt, and was to be sold for a slave, if +not ransomed in a few months. There being no water here, we did not halt; +but continued our march, two of the soldiers being unable to keep up. The +main body of the coffle still kept going on, and at half past twelve +reached Bee Creek; from whence we sent back an ass and two Negroes to +bring up the two fatigued soldiers. + +We had no sooner unloaded the asses at the Creek, than some of Isaaco's +people, being in search of honey, unfortunately disturbed a large swarm +of bees near where the coffle had halted. The bees came out in immense +numbers, and attacked men and beasts at the same time. Luckily most of +the asses were loose, and gallopped up the valley; but the horses and +people were very much stung, and obliged to scamper in all directions. +The fire which had been kindled for cooking being deserted, spread, and +set fire to the bamboos; and our baggage had like to have been burnt. In +fact, for half an hour the bees seemed to have completely put an end to +our journey. + +In the evening, when the bees became less troublesome, and we could +venture to collect our cattle, we found that many of them were very much +stung and swelled about the head. Three asses were missing; one died in +the evening, and one next morning, and we were forced to leave one at +Sibikillin; in all six: besides which, our guide lost his horse, and many +of the people were very much stung about the face and hands. + +During the night got the telescope ready in order to set the watch to +Greenwich time by observing an emersion of the second satellite of +Jupiter. Mr. Anderson took the time, and I was seated at the telescope +half an hour before it happened, in order to be sure of observing it. The +satellite emerged by + + ' " + _Watch_ 11 49 16 + Greenwich 11 46 30 + --------- + Watch too fast 0 2 46 + --------- + Emersion by Nautical Almanack 11 49 51 + Equation 0 3 21 + --------- + Mean time at Greenwich 11 46 30 + +Observations of the sun taken with artificial horizon and the watch the +same evening, to determine the apparent time. + + H. M. S. | ' + 5 57 15 | 30 24 + 0 58 0 | 30 14 + 0 58 42 | 29 43 + + H. M. S. | ' + 6 4 15 | 27 11 + 0 5 0 | 26 51 + 0 5 35 | 26 36 + + H. M. S. | ' + 6 6 54 | 25 56 + 0 7 34 | 25 38 + 0 8 13 | 25 20 + +Observed the meridian altitude of the sun within a mile of Bee Creek the +same day; + + ' " + Altitude 164 21 0 + ---------- + 82 10 30 + 0 16 0 + ---------- + 82 26 30 + ---------- + Z.D. 7 33 23 + D. 21 6 8 + ---------- + Latitude 13 32 45 + +Longitude 43 min. 56 sec. of time, or 10 59' West. + +May 27th.--Early in the morning we set forwards, and after travelling +four miles arrived at Sibikillin. Here the water which supplies the town, +is collected in a deep rocky hollow. There are plenty of fish in the +pool, but the natives will not eat any of them, nor allow them to be +taken, imagining that the water would immediately dry up. Cautioned the +soldiers against catching any of them. At night one of the town's-people +found our guide's horse in the woods, and brought it to the town. Gave +him fifteen bars of amber, and a Barraloolo, &c. + +[Footnote: _Shea_, or vegetable Butter-tree. See Park's Travels, p. +203, 352.] + +May 28th.--At day-break set forwards, and about three miles east of +Sibikillin descended into a valley, where I saw the first _Shea_ +trees, some of them loaded with fruit, but not ripe. About eleven o'clock +arrived at Badoo, a small town consisting of about three hundred huts. A +little north of this is another town, called likewise Badoo; but they +distinguish them by the names of Sansanding and Sansanba. The Slatee or +governor of each of these towns exacts customs to a great amount from all +coffles, and if refused, they join together and plunder them. Judging it +best to settle matters amicably, if possible, I gave him during the day +the following articles; viz. + +To Amar, the king's younger brother, Bars. + Amber No. 2. 10 + Coral 5 + +To the King of Sansanding, + Amber 10 + Coral 5 + Scarlet 5 + Barraloolo 5 + Two mirrors 2 + Scarlet 5 + Amber 6 + +To the King of Sansanba, + Amber 10 + Coral 5 + Scarlet 5 + + Bars. +Barraloolo 5 +To different people, Grandees 20 + ---- + 97 + ---- +[Footnote: Here is a mistake of Mr. Park. The total is really 98.] + +Bought a bullock for 12 +And a sheep for 5 + + + ' " +Mer. Alt. 163 17 0 + ------------ + 81 38 30 + 0 16 0 + ------------ + 81 54 30 + ------------ + Z.D. 8 5 30 + D. 21 37 30 + ------------ +Latitude 13 32 0 + + +May 29th.--In the forenoon had an opportunity of sending two letters home +to England, viâ Gambia. + +In the evening left Badoo, and went to Tambacunda, about four miles east +of Badoo. The river Gambia is only four miles distant, South of Badoo. +Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott went up a hill near the town, and had a fine +view of it. The course is from the South-East, till it reaches the hills +near Badoo; it then turns towards the South. It is called _Ba +Deema_, or the river which is _always a river_, i.e. it never +dries. The distance between Badoo and Laby in Foota Jalla is five days +travel. + +Purchased two asses. + +May 30th.--Left Tambacunda, and entered the woods. Travelled very +expeditiously till eleven o'clock, when we reached a watering place +called Fatifing, where we found some green dirty water, so bad that +nothing but necessity would have made us drink it. Halted here till half +past two o'clock, when we again set forward and reached _Tabba Gee_ +just at dark: found no water. During the afternoon the country to the +South hilly and beautiful. A little before we reached the halting place +some drops of rain fell. + +May 31st.--Left Tabba Gee at day break, and a few miles to the east +passed a round lump of quartz, called by the natives _Ta Kooro_, or +the traveller's stone; all travellers lift up this stone and turn it +round. The stone is worn quite smooth, and the iron rock on which it +rests is worn hollow by this constant motion. Halted during the heat of +the day at Mambari, where there is a small village built this season; the +former one having been destroyed by war many years ago. Passed in the +course of the forenoon two streams running towards Gambia. + + + ' " + Obser. Mer. Alt. - - 162 43 0 + _________ + 1/2 81 21 30 + 0 16 0 + _________ + 81 37 30 + _________ + Z.D. - 8 23 30 + D. - 21 46 10 + _________ + Latitude - - - 13 22 40 + _________ + + +_Muianta_, a hill resembling a castle, bearing by compass S. by E. +is distant sixteen miles; _Sambankalla_ bearing S., the hills of +Foota Jalla bearing by compass SW. by W. SW. and SW. by S.--The town of +Laby is immediately beyond those hills, which are three days travel from +this place. The river Gambia comes down the opening SSW. between Muianta +and the hills of Foota Jalla. The latter have nearly the appearance of +Madeira when seen from the sea, but the hills are not so sharp-pointed as +those of Madeira. + +In the afternoon again set forwards, and four miles to the East passed +the dry bed of a torrent course towards Gambia; road rocky; plenty of +white quartz in detached lumps and small pieces. Travelled till quite +dark, when we were forced to halt for the night at a place where there +was no water; and of course we all slept supperless. + +June 1st.--At day break set forwards, and at ten o'clock arrived at +Julifunda, a considerable town founded by people who formerly received +goods in advance from the European traders on the Gambia, Rio Nunez, and +Kajaaga; the road to Bambara from these places frequently leading through +this place when the other routes were stopped by war. These people, who +trade on credit, are called _Juli_ in distinction from the Slatee +who trades with his own capital. Julifunda was formerly inhabited +entirely by Soninkees; but the King of Foota Jalla made war on them, and +obliged them, as a condition of peace, to embrace the Mahomedan religion. +The town contains, I suppose, about two thousand people, including the +suburbs. + +In the evening sent our guide to the chief man, who is termed _Mansa +Kussan_, and is reckoned one of the most avaricious chiefs in the +whole of the road. Sent him some amber and scarlet as a present, and told +him that I intended to remain one day at Julifunda in order to purchase +rice. + +June 2d.--Bought some corn and two ass loads of rice; presented Mansa +Kussan with some amber, coral, and scarlet, with which he appeared to be +perfectly satisfied, and sent a bullock in return; he even prayed for my +safety, and told me that he would do his utmost to get us forwards. +Bought an ass for twenty bars of amber. At four o'clock put on the loads +and departed for Baniserile. + +The whole of the asses were gone, and only Mr. Anderson and myself +remained, having sent our guide to inform Mansa Kussan of our departure. +Our guide returned, and told us that Mansa Kussan had said that, unless I +gave him ten bars of all the different sorts of merchandise, he would not +allow us to pass farther up the country; and if we attempted to pass +without his consent, he would do his utmost to plunder us in the woods. + +Recalled the people and asses, and endeavoured to settle matters in a +friendly manner. Suspecting that he would not have used such language +unless he had received assurances from some other towns that they would +join him in attacking us, sent him some more scarlet and amber by our +guide; being unwilling to go singly into the town, having received +information that it was the intention of the king to detain me, with a +view to make me pay handsomely for my release. + +Mansa Kussan seized the money which I paid for the ass in the seller's +hands, and what evinced his hostile intentions still more, he seized the +ass till such time as the palaver should be settled. I shall here give a +list of the different articles of trade paid by me at different times, to +Mansa Kussan at Julifunda. + +Sent at first, + + Bars. +Amber 16 +Scarlet 10 +Barraloolo 10 + +Sent afterwards, + +Amber 4 +Barraloolo 5 +Amber No. 1. 10 + +To Kussan's brothers + +Amber 2 +Scarlet 2 + +Took with me when I went to pay my respects to him, + +Amber 23 +Beads 5 +Looking-glass 1 +[table ends] + +Sent after the asses turned back, + +Amber 23 +Coral 10 +Beads 10 +Swords 15 + +Sent on the morning of the 3d of June, + +A pair of pistols 20 +Scarlet 10 +Barraloolo 15 + --- +Bars 200 + --- + +[Footnote 1: Here too there is some mistake in Park's MS. the true total +being 191.] + + o ' " +Observed Mer. Alt. 162 11 0 + 81 5 30 + 0 16 0 + 81 21 30 + Z.D. 8 38 30 + D. 22 11 29 + Latitude 13 33 0 + +June 3d--Having sent him the last present mentioned in the above list, I +concluded, and was assured by the king's brothers, that no further +demands would be made; but was much surprised when our guide and the +king's brothers told me on their return that I must send ten bars of +gunpowder and ten of flints. Here I determined to put an end to the +business; and told the king's brothers that I considered myself as having +paid the king very well for passing through his territory; that I would +neither give him a single charge of gunpowder nor a flint; and if he +refused to allow me to pass, I would go without his permission; and if +his people attempted to obstruct us we would do our utmost to defend +ourselves. The king's brothers and some of the old Bushreens insisted on +my sending the gunpowder or some other goods of equal value; but I +assured them that Europeans would much rather run the risque of being +plundered in a hostile manner than have their goods (which were brought +to purchase provisions) extorted from them by such exorbitant demands. +After going backwards and forwards to the king, his Majesty was pleased +to say he was satisfied; and what surprised me, said that he was coming +to pay us a friendly visit in the afternoon. He accordingly paid us a +visit, attended by a parcel of parasites and singing women. Offered me a +few Cola nuts, which I desired our guide to take and eat; he likewise +told me that I should have a guide to Baniserile. + +June 4th.--Early in the morning departed, and having passed the village +Eercella, remarkable for a grove of large _Sitta_ trees, about one +o'clock arrived at Baniserile, and halted under a tree near the wells. +This being His Majesty's birth day, pitched one of the tents, purchased a +bullock and a calf for the soldiers: in the afternoon had them drawn up, +and fired; and made it as much a day of festivity as our circumstances +would permit; and though we were under the necessity of drinking His +Majesty's health in water from our canteens, yet few of his subjects +wished more earnestly for the continuance of his life and the prosperity +of his reign. + +Baniserile is a Mahometan town; the chief man, _Fodi_ Braheima, is +one of the most friendly men I have met with. I gave him a copy of the +New Testament in Arabic, with which he seemed very much pleased. + +June 5th.--Employed in purchasing rice, having received information that +there was a great scarcity of that article to the eastwards. Bought the +rice both here and at Julifunda with small amber No. 5; and I found that +though a scarcity existed almost to famine, I could purchase a pound of +clean rice for one bead of amber, value 2d. sterling. + +Purchased three ass loads, and on the 6th purchased two ass loads more, +making in all 750lb. of rice. This day one of our guide's people went +away to purchase slaves at Laby in Foota Jalla, distant three long days +travel. The people here assured me it was only three days travel from +Badoo to Laby. Had a squall with thunder and rain during the night. As +the loads were put into the tent, they were not wetted, but one of our +carpenters, (old James,) who had been sick of the dysentery ever since we +crossed the Nerico, and was recovering, became greatly worse. Observed +mer. alt. of 0 161 8' latitude 13 35'. + +Dentila is famous for its iron; the flux used for smelting the iron is +the ashes of the bark of the _Kino_ tree. These ashes are as white +as flour: they are not used in dying blue, and must therefore have +something peculiar in them. I tasted them: they did not appear to me to +have so much alkali as the mimosa ashes, but had an austere taste. The +people told me, if I eat them, I would certainly die. + +June 7th.--Departed early in the morning, and as the carpenter before +mentioned was very weak, appointed two soldiers to stay by him, and +assist him in mounting, and to drive his ass. Four miles east of +Baniserile came to the brow of a hill, from which we had an extensive +prospect eastwards. A square looking hill, supposed to be the hill near +Dindikoo, in Konkodoo, bore by compass due _East_. + +[Illustration: Untitled cut] + +Shortly after crossed the bed of a stream running towards the +_Faleme_ river, called _Samakoo_ on account of the vast herds +of elephants which wash themselves in it during the rains. + +[Illustration: Map] + +Saw their foot marks very frequently, and fresh dung. Heard a lion roar +not far from us. This day the asses travelled very ill on account of +their having eaten fresh grass, as we supposed. + +Obliged to load the horses, and at noon halted at a large _pool_ of +water in the bed of the Samakoo, called _Jananga_. + +From the time of our crossing the Samakoo to our halting place, we +travelled without any road; our guide being apprehensive that as there +existed a war a little to the south, and the people were in arms; they +might attempt to cut off some of the fatigued asses in our rear. + +In the afternoon resumed our march, and travelled without any road over a +wild and rocky country. Obliged to leave two of the asses on the road, +and load all the horses. We did not reach the watering place till quite +dark, and were obliged to fire muskets frequently to prevent us from +straying from each other. + +June 8th.--Early in the morning resumed our march, and about two miles to +the east came to the brow of a hill, from whence we could distinguish the +course of the Faleme river by the range of dark green trees which grew on +its borders. The carpenter unable to sit upright, and frequently threw +himself from the ass, wishing to be left to die. Made two of the soldiers +carry him by force and hold him on the ass. At noon reached Madina, and +halted by the side of the Faleme river; which at this season is a little +discoloured by the rain, but not sensibly swelled. The general course of +this river as pointed out by the natives is from the south-east quarter; +the distance to its source is six ordinary days travel. The bed of the +river here is rocky, except at the crossing place, where it is a mixture +of sand and gravel. The river abounds in fish, some of them very large: +we saw several plunge and leap that appeared to be so large as to weigh +60 or 70 lb. The velocity of the stream is about four knots per hour. + +In the afternoon got all the bundles carried over, and up the opposite +bank, which very much fatigued the soldiers. When every thing was carried +over, I found the carpenter still more weakly and apparently dying. I +therefore thought it best to leave him at Madina till the morning +following. Went to the village, and hired a hut for him for six bars of +amber, and gave the Dooty four bars, desiring him to make some of his +people assist the soldier (whom I left to take care of the sick person) +in burying him, if he died during the night. In the evening went to +Satadoo, which is only one mile east of the river. As there was great +appearance of rain, put all the baggage into one, and slept on the top of +the bundles, leaving the other tent for the soldiers. We had a heavy +tornado with much thunder and lightning. + +June 9th.--In the morning the soldier, who had been left to take care of +the sick man, returned; and informed us that he died at eight o'clock the +preceding evening; and that with the assistance of the Negroes he had +buried him in the place where the people of the village bury their dead. +Purchased corn for the asses, and a large bullock for the people; +likewise one ass. + +Went into the town in the evening, and presented the Dooty with six bars, +requesting a guide to Shrondo, which he readily granted. Satadoo is +walled round, and contains about three hundred huts: it was formerly much +larger. Observed mer. alt. sun 160° 6'; observed mer. alt. Jupiter 116 +36'. + +Five of the soldiers, who did not go into the tent, but staid under the +tree during the rain, complained much of headache and uneasiness at +stomach. + +June 10th. The soldiers still sickly. Left Satadoo at sun-rise: several +of our canteens stolen during the night. This forenoon we travelled for +more than two miles over white quartz, large lumps of which were lying +all round; no other stone to be seen. Carried forwards a large skinful of +water, being uncertain whether we should find any on the road. At eleven +o'clock reached the bed of a stream flowing to the left, called Billalla, +where we found some muddy water. + +Resumed our journey at half past three o'clock, and travelled over a hard +rocky soil towards the mountains; many of the asses very much fatigued. +The front of the coffle reached Shrondo at sunset; but being in the rear +I had to mount one of the sick men on my horse, and assist in driving the +fatigued asses: so that I did not reach the halting place till eight +o'clock, and was forced to leave four asses in the woods. Shrondo is but +a small town. We halted as usual under a tree at a little distance; and +before we could pitch one of the tents, we were overtaken by a very heavy +tornado, which wet us all completely. In attempting to fasten up one of +the tents to a branch of the tree, had my hat blown away, and lost. The +ground all round was covered with water about three inches deep. We had +another tornado about two o'clock in the morning. The tornado which took +place on our arrival, had an instant effect on the health of the +soldiers, and proved to us, to be the _beginning of sorrow_. I had +proudly flattered myself that we should reach the Niger with a very +moderate loss; we had had two men sick of the dysentery; one of them +recovered completely on the march, and the other would doubtless have +recovered, had he not been wet by the rain at Baniserile. But now the +rain had set in, and I trembled to think that we were only halfway +through our journey. The rain had not commenced three minutes before many +of the soldiers were affected with vomiting; others fell asleep, and +seemed as if half intoxicated. I felt a strong inclination to sleep +during the storm; and as soon as it was over I fell asleep on the wet +ground, although I used every exertion to keep myself awake. The soldiers +likewise fell asleep on the wet bundles. + +June 11th.--Twelve of the soldiers sick. Went and waited on the Dooty, +and presented him with five bars of amber, and two of beads, requesting +his permission to go and look at the gold mines, which I understood were +in the vicinity. Having obtained his permission, I hired a woman to go +with me, and agreed to pay her a bar of amber if she would shew me a +grain of gold. We travelled about half a mile west of the town, when we +came to a small meadow spot of about four or five acres extent, in which +were several holes dug resembling wells. They were in general about ten +or twelve feet deep; towards the middle of the meadow spot the holes were +deepest, and shallower towards the sides. Their number was about thirty, +besides many old ones which had sunk down. Near the mouths of these pits +were several other shallow pits, lined with clay, and full of rain water: +between the _mine pits_ and these _wash pits_ laid several +heaps of sandy gravel. On the top of each was a stone; some of the stones +white, others red, others black, &c. These serve to distinguish each +person's property. I could see nothing peculiar in this gravel; some +silicious pebbles as large as a pigeon's egg, pieces of white and reddish +quartz, iron stone, and killow, and a soft friable yellow stone, which +crumbled to pieces by the fingers, were the chief minerals that I could +distinguish. Besides the above there was a great portion of sand, and a +yellow earth resembling _till_. + +The woman took about half a pound of gravel with one hand from the heap, +which I suppose belonged to her; and having put it into a large calabash, +threw a little water on it with a small calabash; which two calabashes +are all that are necessary for washing gold. The quantity of water was +only sufficient to cover the sand about one inch. She then crumbled the +sand to pieces, and mixt it with the water; this she did not in a +rotatory manner, but by pulling her hands towards herself, as shewn in +the following sketch. + +[Illustration] + +She then threw out all the large pebbles, looking on the ground where she +threw them, for fear of throwing out a piece of gold. Having done this, +she gave the sand and water a rotatory motion, so as to make a part of +the sand and water fly over the brim of the calabash. While she did this +with her _right_ hand, with her _left_ she threw out of the +centre of the vortex a portion of sand and water at every revolution. She +then put in a little fresh water, and as the quantity of sand was now +much diminished, she held the calabash in an oblique direction, and made +the sand move slowly round on the line AB, while she constantly agitated +it with a quick motion in the direction CD. + +[Illustration] + +I now observed a quantity of black matter, resembling gunpowder, which +she told me was _gold rust_; and before she had moved the sand one +quarter round the calabash, she pointed to a yellow speck, and said, +_sanoo affilli_, see the gold. On looking attentively I saw a +portion of pure gold, and took it out. It would have weighed about _one +grain_. The whole of the washing, from the first putting in of the +sand till she shewed me the gold, did not exceed the space of _two +minutes_. I now desired her to take a larger portion. She put in, as +nearly as I could guess, about two pounds; and having washed it in the +same manner, and nearly in the same time, found no fewer than +_twenty-three_ particles; some of them were very small. In both cases +I observed that the quantity of sanoo mira, or _gold rust_, was at +least forty times greater than the quantity of gold. She assured me that +they sometimes found pieces of gold as large as her fist. I could not +ascertain the quantity of gold washed here in one year; but I believe it +must be considerable, though they wash only during the beginning and end +of the rains. Gold is sold here, and all along our route, by the +minkalli: six teelee kissi (a sort of bean, the fruit of a large tree) +make one minkalli: the weight of six teelee kissi is exactly [dram] & +[scruple]. In Kaarta they use a small bean called jabee kissi, twenty-four +of which make one minkalli; a jabee kissi weighs exactly four grains. In +Kasson, twelve small tamarind stones make one minkalli, which I believe is +the heaviest minkalli in this part of Africa. If gold is purchased with +amber, _one bead_ of No. 4 will, in almost all cases, purchase one +_teelee kissi_: but it can be purchased with more advantage with +beads or scarlet, and still more so with gunpowder. I did not purchase +any; but our guide bought a considerable quantity, and I was present at +all his bargain-making. + +Went in the afternoon to see a brother of Karfa Taura's; he had a very +large collection of Arabic books, and I made him quite happy by adding an +Arabic New Testament to the number. + +June 12th.--Left Shrondo early in the morning; the sick being unable to +walk, I gave them all the horses and spare asses. Travelled slowly along +the bottom of the Konkodoo mountains, which are very steep precipices of +rock, from eighty to two or three hundred feet high. We reached Dindikoo +at noon; at which time it came on a tornado so rapidly, that we were +forced to carry our bundles into the huts of the natives; this being the +first time the coffle had entered a town since leaving Gambia. As soon as +the rain was over, went with Mr. Anderson to see the gold pits which are +near this town. The pits are dug exactly in the same manner as at +Shrondo; a section of the pit would have this appearance. + +[Illustration] + +The notches in the side of the pit serve as a ladder to descend by. The +gravel here is very coarse; some round stones larger than a man's head, +and a vast number larger than one's fist were lying round the mouths of +the pits, which were near twenty in number. Near the pits is a stream of +water, and as the banks had been scraped away to wash for gold, I could +distinguish a stratum of earth and large stones about ten feet thick, and +under this a stratum of two feet of ferruginous pebbles about the size of +a pigeon's egg, and a yellow and rusty-coloured sand and earth; under +this a stratum of tough white clay. The rusty-coloured sand is that in +which the gold is found. Saw plenty of the gold rust. + +When I returned from the gold pits, I went with Mr. Scott to go to the +top of the hill, which is close to the town. The hill was very steep and +rocky. The rocks (like all the hills in Konkodoo) are a coarse reddish +granite, composed of red feldspar, white quartz, and black shorl; but it +differs from any granite I have seen, in having round smooth pebbles, +many of them as large as a cannon shot. These pebbles, when broken, are +granite, but of a paler colour and closer texture. The day was cool; but +after fatiguing ourselves and resting six times, we found that we were +only about half way to the top. We were surprised to find the hill +cultivated to the very summits; and though the people of Dindikoo were +but preparing their fields, the corn on the hill was six inches high. The +villages on these mountains are romantic beyond anything I ever saw. They +are built in the most delightful glens of the mountains; they have plenty +of water and grass at all seasons; they have cattle enough for their own +use, and their superfluous grain purchases all their luxuries; and while +the thunder rolls in awful grandeur over their heads, they can look from +their tremendous precipices over all that wild and woody plain which +extends from the Faleme to the Black River. This plain is in extent, from +North to South, about forty miles: the range of hills to the South seem +to run in the same direction as those of Konkodoo, viz. from East to +West. There are no lions on the hills, though they are very numerous in +the plain. In the evening Lieutenant Martyn fell sick of the fever. + +June 13th.--Early in the morning departed from Dindikoo. The sick +occupied all the horses and spare asses; and as the number of drivers was +thus diminished, we had very hard work to get on. Ten of the loaded asses +and drivers went a different road. Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott being with +them, fired their muskets as soon as they observed that the guide was +leading them in a road where were no asses' foot marks. Answered them; +and sent the serjeant to their assistance. In half an hour they came up, +having gone about three miles too much to the right. Reached a village +almost deserted about one o'clock, and found the coffle halted by a +stream to the east of it. Very uneasy about our situation: half of the +people being either sick of the fever or unable to use great exertion, +and fatigued in driving the asses. Found, to my great mortification, that +the ass which carried the telescope and several other things, was not +come up. Mr. Anderson, the serjeant, and our guide rode back about five +miles in search of it; but returned at half past three o'clock, without +being able to find it. Presented the Dooty of the village with five bars +of amber; requesting him, if he heard of it, to send it forward, and I +would reward him for it. Put on the loads; and part of the coffle had +departed, when one of the Dooty's sons came and told us that he had seen +the ass, and brought it to the village. Went to the village, and paid the +person who found it twenty bars, and the Dooty ten bars. Mounted the load +on my horse, and drove it before me. I did not reach Fankia till seven +o'clock; having to walk slow, in order to coax on three sick soldiers who +had fallen behind, and were for lying down under every tree they passed. +Fankia is a small village, four miles North West from _Binlingalla_. +Here we departed from my former route, and did not touch on it again till +we reached the Niger. + + + + +Chapter III. + + +Departure from Fankia--Tambaura mountains, and difficulties in ascending +the Pass--Toombin--Great embarrassments on the road--Serimanna--Fajemmia +--Astronomical observations--Increase of the sick--Nealakalla--Ba Lee +River--Boontoonkooran--Dooggikotta--Falifing--Losses on the +road--Gimbia; inhospitable treatment--Sullo--Face of the country--Secoba +--Kronkromo--Passage of the Ba Fing--Mode of smelting and working gold +--Fatal accident in crossing the Ba Fing--Hippopotami--Deaths and losses +on the route--Increase of sickness--Reach Viandry--Koeena--Danger from +young lions--Koombandi--Great embarrassments on the road--Fonilla--Ba +Woolima River; difficulties in crossing it--Isaaco seized by a crocodile +--Boolinkoonbo--Distressing situation of the whole of the party--Reach +Serrababoo--Saboseera. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +June 14th.--I halted at Fankia, in order to give the sick a little rest, +knowing there was a steep hill to ascend near this place. Found myself +very sick, having been feverish all night. + + ' " +Observed mer. alt. Sun, - 159 39 0 + ---------- + 79 49 0-1/2 + 0 16 0 + ---------- + 80 5 30 + ---------- + Z.D. - 9 55 30 + D. - - 23 17 0 + ---------- + Latitude - 13 22 30 + +Bought corn for the asses, and plenty of fowls for the sick. + +June 15th.--Left Fankia: men still very sickly, and some of them slightly +delirious. About a mile N.E. of this village is the passage in the +Tambaura mountains, called Toombinjeena. The ascent is very steep and +rocky: the perpendicular of the steepest place would not much exceed +three hundred feet. The asses being heavily loaded, in order to spare as +many as possible for the sick, we had much difficulty in getting our +loads up this steep. The number of asses exceeding the drivers, presented +a dreadful scene of confusion in this rocky staircase; loaded asses +tumbling over the rocks, sick soldiers unable to walk, black fellows +stealing; in fact it certainly was _uphill work_ with us at this +place. Having got up all the loads and asses, set forwards; and about two +miles from the steep came to the delightful village of Toombin. On +collecting our loads, found that the natives had stolen from us seven +pistols, two great coats and one knapsack, besides other small articles. +Sent back the horses for two sick soldiers, who were unable to ride on +the horses, and were left at the steep. Pitched the tent, and secured the +baggage from the rain. + +[Footnote: See Park's Travels, p. 257] + +June 16th.--Left Toombin. Just as the people and asses were gone, the +good old schoolmaster whom I mentioned in my former travels came up. He +had heard the night before that I was with the party, and had travelled +all night to come and see me. As the loads were gone on, I told him I +wished him to go forward with me to the place where we should halt; that +I might reward him in some degree for his former kindness. Recovered +three of the pistols which had been stolen, and one great coat. Set +forwards. About a mile to the east of the village found _Hinton_, +one of the sick who rode Mr. Anderson's horse, lying under a tree, and +the horse grazing at a little distance. Some of the natives had stolen +the pistols from the holsters, and robbed my coat case, which was +fastened behind the saddle, of a string of coral, all the amber and beads +it contained, and one barraloolo. Luckily they did not fancy my pocket +sextant, and artificial horizon, which were in the same place. Put the +sick man on the horse and drove it before me; and after holding him on +and using every exertion to keep him on the saddle, I found that I was +unable to carry him on, and having fatigued myself very much with +carrying him forwards about six miles, I was forced to leave him. + +About a mile after I left Hinton, I came to two others lying in the shade +of a tree. Mounted one on Mr. Anderson's horse, and the other on my own, +and drove them before me. Reached the village of Serimanna about half +past twelve o'clock: sent back a horse in the cool of the evening for +Hinton, and brought him to the village, being obliged to tie him on the +horse. + +Gave the schoolmaster five bars of scarlet, one barraloolo, ten bars of +beads, fourteen of amber, and two dollars, which made him completely +happy. I likewise gave him an Arabic New Testament, which he promised to +read with attention. + +June 17th.--Finding that Hinton was worse, and Sparks delirious, left +them to the care of the Dooty of the village; having given him amber and +beads sufficient to purchase victuals for them if they lived, and to bury +them if they died. If they recovered, he engaged to join them to the +first coffle travelling to Gambia. From Serimanna in two hours we reached +Fajemmia: this is only a small village, but fortified with a high wall. +The chief, from whom the village has its name, formerly resided at +Faramba, to the East of this; but has lately retired here, leaving his +people and slaves at Faramba. Fajemmia is the most powerful chief of +Konkodoo, and holds under his subjection all the country from Toombin to +the Ba Fing. + +The customs paid by travellers being always in proportion to the power +and mischievous disposition of the chiefs; those paid at Fajemmia are of +course very high. + +I paid as follows: + + Bars + Amber 15 + Beads 50 + Scarlet 20 + Amber 35 + Amber 14 + Barraloolo 15 + ---- + 149 bars; + +a soldier's musket, a pair of handsome pistols, a handsome sword, a great +coat, and one hundred gun flints. + +Very happy to get so well over the palaver; for he insisted long on +having the customs, or four bottles of gunpowder for each ass, which +would have distressed us very much; and we could have made but a feeble +resistance, being so very sickly. Observed an emersion of Jupiter's first +satellite. + +June 17th, time by the watch 13° 6' 15". + +June 18th, altitudes for the time with artificial horizon. + +H. M. S. ' H. M. S. ' +6 25 35 | 19 36 6 27 41 | 18 43 + 26 13 | 19 28 28 19 | 18 24 + 26 51 | 19 5 28 50 | 18 12 + + 6 29 39 17 49 + 30 23 17 30 + 30 48 17 19 + +Longitude not yet calculated. + + ' " +June 18th.--Obser. mer. alt. Sun, 159 49 0 + ---------- + 79 54 0-1/2 + 0 16 0 + ---------- + 80 10 0-1/2 + ---------- + Z.D. - 9 50 0 + D. - 23 25 0 + ---------- + Latitude 13 35 0 N. + +Our palaver with Fajemmia was not finished till the morning of the 19th. +During the 18th, 19th, and 20th I was very sick; and though in general I +was able to sit up part of the day, yet I was very weak, and unable to +attend to the marketing of corn, milk, and fowls. Mr. Anderson therefore +bought these articles, and attended to the cattle, &c. Lieutenant Martyn, +the sergeant, corporal, and half the soldiers sick of the fever. Boiled a +camp kettle full of strong decoction of cinchona every day since leaving +Dindikoo. Purchased three asses, and hired our guide's people to drive +four of our asses in addition to the two they already drove, making +altogether six asses, for one hundred and twenty bars. + +On the 18th, Mr. Anderson and one of the soldiers went back to Serimanna +to see the two men left there, and ascertain if they could possibly be +carried forward. Returned on the 19th, and reported that they were both +alive, but not in a state to be moved, and were themselves anxious to +remain where they were, as it afforded them the only chance of recovery. + +June 20th.--When we had loaded the asses, found one of the soldiers +(_old Rowe_) unable to ride. Paid ten bars of amber, and measured +eighteen days rice for him to one of the best men in the village, who, I +have no doubt, will take care of him. Shortly after leaving Fajemmia, it +began to thunder, and by the time we had travelled four miles we +experienced a smart tornado, which wetted many of the loads, and made the +road very muddy and slippery. We reached a village nearly deserted, +called Nealakalla, about noon. Here we found that the ass which carried +the spare clothing was not come up; and as many of the men were very ill +situated, particularly with respect to shoes, I thought it best to send +back two of the men a few miles to see if they could find it. Felt rather +uneasy about the men, as they did not return at sun-set. Fired several +muskets, but heard no answer. The village of Nealakalla is close to the +_Ba Lee_ or Honey river, which we found discoloured, but not +sensibly swelled. Saw two crocodiles, and an incredible number of large +fish. + +June 21st.--As the two men had not yet arrived, sent forward the coffle +to cross the river: desired Mr. Scott to fire a musket when they had all +crossed. Mr. Anderson and myself agreed to stop at Nealakalla till noon, +in hopes of hearing something concerning the two men. They arrived about +eleven o'clock, having found the ass and load so near Fajemmia, that they +had gone there and slept in the same hut with old Rowe, who, they told +us, was recovering and very well pleased with his situation. Set +forwards; and about a mile to the N.E. of the village crossed the river +at a place where its course is interrupted by a bed of whinstone rock, +which forms the stream into a number of small cataracts. The people had +to carry over all the loads on their heads, and we found them cooking on +the East bank of the river, and nearly ready to set forwards. Mr. +Anderson and I stepped across the river from rock to rock without wetting +our feet. + +As soon as the men had finished their breakfast we set forwards, and +about two miles East came to a narrow and deep creek, in which was a +stream of muddy water. Crossed this with so much difficulty, that some +were for calling it _Vinegar Creek_. About four o'clock passed the +village of _Boontoonkooran_, delightfully situated at the bottom of +a steep and rocky hill. Two miles East of this we halted for the night at +the village of _Dooggikotta_; where the cultivation is very +extensive, and we had much difficulty in keeping our cattle off the corn. +A tornado during the night. + +June 22d.--Halted till near ten o'clock, as there was great appearance of +rain. William Roberts, one of the carpenters who had been sick since +leaving Fajemmia, declared that he was unable to proceed, and signed a +note that he was left by his own consent. Passed a small village about +four miles to the East, and travelled on the ascent near a river course +almost the whole day. We had a fine view of _Kullallie_, a high +detached and square rocky hill, which we had seen ever since we left +Fajemmia. This hill is quite inaccessible on all sides, and level and +green on the top. The natives affirm that there is a lake of water on its +summit, and they frequently go round the bottom of the precipices, during +the rainy season, and pick up _large turtles_, which have tumbled +over the precipice and killed themselves. Saw many very picturesque and +rocky hills during the march, and in the evening halted at the village of +_Falifing_, which is situated on the summit of the ascent which +separates the _Ba lee_ from the _Ba fing_. Lost one ass, and +80lbs. of balls on the march. + +June 23d.--Early in the morning resumed our journey; and after travelling +two hours on a level plain, bounded with high rocky precipices on our +right and left, we descended slowly towards the East, and shortly came to +the village of _Gimbia_, or _Kimbia_. I chanced to be in the +rear, bringing on some asses which had thrown their loads; and when I +came up I found all about the village wearing a hostile appearance, the +men running from the corn grounds and putting on their quivers, &c. The +cause of this tumult was, as usual, the _love of money_. The +villagers had heard that the white men were to pass; that they were very +sickly, and unable to make any resistance, or to defend the immense +wealth in their possession. Accordingly when part of the coffle had +passed the village, the people sallied out; and, under pretence that the +coffle should not pass till the Dooty pleased, insisted on turning back +the asses. One of them seized the serjeant's horse by the bridle to lead +it into the village; but when the serjeant cocked his pistol and +presented it, he dropped the bridle; others drove away the asses with +their loads, and every thing seemed going into confusion. The soldiers +with great coolness loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed their +bayonets: on seeing this the villagers hesitated, and the soldiers drove +the asses across the bed of a torrent; and then returned, leaving a +sufficient number to guard the asses. + +The natives collected themselves under a tree by the gate of the village, +where I found the Dooty and Isaaco at very high words. On enquiring the +cause of the tumult, Isaaco informed me that the villagers had attempted +to take the loads from the asses. I turned to the Dooty, and asked him +who were the persons that had dared to make such an attempt. He pointed +to about thirty people armed with bows; on which I fell a laughing, and +asked him if he really thought that such people could fight; adding, if +he had a mind to make the experiment, they need only go up and attempt to +take off one of the loads. They seemed by this time to be fully satisfied +that they had made a vain attempt; and the Dooty desired me to tell the +men to go forward with the asses. As I did not know but perhaps some of +the sick might be under the necessity of returning this way, I thought it +adviseable to part on friendly terms; and therefore gave the Dooty four +bars of amber, and told him that we did not come to make war; but if any +person made war on us, we would defend ourselves to the last. + +Set forwards, and half a mile to the East descended into a rocky valley: +many of the asses fell in going down the steep. About noon reached +_Sullo_, an unwalled village at the bottom of a rocky hill. Shortly +after we halted Lieutenant Martyn's horse died. This was a _God +send_ to the people of Sullo, who cut him up as if he had been a +bullock, and had almost come to _blows_ about the division of him; +so much is horse-flesh esteemed at this place. Numbers of large monkies +on the rocks over the town. + +June 24th.--Left Sullo, and travelled through a country beautiful beyond +imagination, with all the possible diversities of _rock_, sometimes +towering up like ruined castles, spires, pyramids, &c. We passed one +place so like a ruined Gothic abbey, that we halted a little, before we +could satisfy ourselves that the niches, windows, ruined staircase, &c. +were all natural rock. A faithful description of this place would +certainly be deemed a fiction. + +Passed a hill composed of one homogeneous mass of solid rock (red +granite) without a detached stone or blade of grass; never saw such a +hill in my life. In the course of the march saw several villages +romantically situated in the crescents formed by the rocky precipices; +the medium height of these precipices is from one hundred to five or six +hundred feet perpendicular. The whole country between the Ba fing and Ba +lee is rugged and grand beyond any thing I have seen. + +We reached _Secoba_ at noon. The Dooty of this town is Fajemmia's +younger brother. Presented him with goods to the amount of 50 bars; he +was so much pleased that he said he would go with us till we had crossed +the _Ba fing_, and see that the canoe people did not impose on us. + +Obser. Mer. Alt. of Jupiter ' " + 115 28 0 + ---------- + 57 44 0 + 0 0 36 + ---------- + 57 43 24 + ---------- + 32 16 36 + 18 49 10 + ---------- +Latitude 13 27 26 + +June 25th.--Halted at _Secoba_, in order to refresh the sick; bought +plenty of fowls and milk for them. + +June 26th.--Departed from Secoba, accompanied by the Dooty and several +people. Hired three of the Dooty's friends, as guides to Kandy, in that +district of Fooladoo called Gangaran. About seven miles East of Secoba +came to the village of Konkromo, where we pitched our tents by the river +side. The day was too far spent before we had agreed with the canoe +people, and, as we could not possibly carry all the loads over, thought +it best to wait till next morning. As I thought it probable that we +should have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of Jupiter's first +satellite, I took the following altitudes for the time. + +H. M. S. ' H. M. S. ' H. M. S. ' + 5 25 55 | 45 36 5 30 2 | 43 47 5 36 22 | 40 55 + 0 26 53 | 45 13 0 30 42 | 43 28 0 37 3 | 40 35 + 0 27 37 | 44 55 0 31 25 | 43 10 0 37 44 | 40 17 + +Observed the emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter. + + H. M. S. +By watch - - - - 9 26 20 + +Time by Nautical Almanack - 9 24 53 +Equation - - - 0 2 15 + -------- + Mean time at Greenwich 9 27 8 + 9 27 8 + -------- + Watch too slow 0 0 48 + +Longitude 32 m. 24 sec. or 8° 6' W. + +June 27th.--Early in the morning paid the canoe people 50 bars to carry +over all our baggage and cattle, and likewise presented the Dooty of +_Secoba_ with some beads. + +Four canoes sufficient to carry only an ass load and an half at a time, +were provided for this purpose. Sent over Mr. Anderson and six men with +their arms to receive the loads from the canoes and carry them into the +tents. The asses were made to swim over, one on each side of the canoe, +two boys sitting in the canoe and holding them by the ears. + +At this place I had an opportunity of seeing their mode of smelting gold. +Isaaco had purchased some gold in coming through Konkodoo, and here he +had it made into a large ring. The smith made a crucible of common red +clay and dried it in the sun: into this he put the gold, without any flux +or mixture whatever; he then put charcoal under and over it, and blowing +the fire with the common double bellows of the country, soon produced +such a heat as to bring the gold into a state of fusion. He then made a +small furrow in the ground, into which he poured the melted gold; when it +was cold he took it up, and heating it again, soon hammered it into a +square bar. Then heating it again, he twisted it by means of two pairs of +pincers into a sort of screw; and lengthening out the ends, turned them +up so as to form a massy and precious ring. + +When the baggage and cattle were all transported over, I sent over the +men, and embarked myself in the last canoe; but as one of the soldiers in +the other canoe had gone out to purchase something, I made the canoe in +which I was shove off, telling the men to come off the moment the man +returned. I found it difficult to sit in the canoe so as to balance it, +though it contained only three people besides the rower. We had just +landed on the East bank, when we observed the canoe, in which were the +three soldiers, pushing off from the opposite bank. It shortly after +overset, and though the natives from the shore swam in to their +assistance, yet J. Cartwright was unfortunately drowned. The natives +dived and recovered two of the muskets, and Cartwright's body; they put +the body in the canoe and brought it over. I used the means recommended +by the Humane Society, but in vain. We buried him in the evening on the +bank of the river. + +The Ba fing is here a large river quite navigable; it is swelled at this +time about two feet, and flows at the rate of three knots per hour. The +people here are _all thieves:_ they attempted to steal several of +our loads, and we detected one carrying away the bundle in which was all +our medicines. We could not sleep with the noise of the hippopotami, +which came close to the bank and kept snorting and blowing all night. The +night being clear, observed the emersion of Jupiter's second satellite; +it emerged + + H. M. S. +By watch - - - - 11 25 55 +Time by Nautical Almanack 11 24 40 +Equation - - - 0 1 53 + -------- + Mean time at Greenwich 11 26 33 + 11 26 33 + -------- + Watch too slow 0 0 38 + +June 28th.--Purchased an ass for four minkallis of gold, and a horse for +45 bars. Set forwards about seven o'clock. After travelling four miles, +the ass I had purchased lay down, and I found it impossible to raise him. +Took off the load and left him. At ten o'clock came close to the bottom +of a high rocky hill, which rises like an immense castle from the level +plain: it is called _Sankaree_: and on enquiring about a large heap +of stones near the foot of the precipice, I was told that the town of +Madina, which was in the vicinity, was some years ago stormed by the +Kaartans, and that the greater part of the inhabitants fled towards this +hill. Some however were killed on the road, and these stones were +collected over the grave of one of them. He said there were five more +such near the hill, and that every person in passing, if he belongs to +the same family or _contong_, thinks himself bound to throw a stone +on the heap to perpetuate the memory of their friend. These heaps are +precisely what in Scotland are called _Cairns_. This hill is +accessible only by one very narrow and difficult path. They assured me +that there was abundance of water on the summit at all seasons, and that +the huts built by the Madina people were still standing on the summit, +though out of repair. + +At eleven o'clock crossed a stream, like a mill stream, running North. We +halted on the East side of it; found that one of the asses with a load of +beads had not come up. The soldier who drove it (Bloore), without +acquainting any person, returned to look for it. Shortly after the ass +and load were found in the woods. Sent the serjeant after Bloore on one +of the horses; he rode back as far as Sankaree without seeing him, and +concluded he had lost the path. He found one of the sick (Walter) who had +wandered from the track (for there was no road); and had laid himself +down among the bushes till some of the natives discovered him. Paid the +natives ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Bloore. + +In the afternoon collected the asses for marching. Had great difficulty +in finding the horses, one of which (the serjeant's), after all our +search could not be found. As it was in vain to wait for Bloore, put on +the loads and departed. It is to be observed that there is no path-way in +these woods, and we found much difficulty in keeping together: fired +muskets frequently to give intimation of our line of march. After +travelling about four miles, Shaddy Walter, the sick man before +mentioned, became so exhausted that he could not sit on the ass. He was +fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and +shortly after died. He was brought forwards to a place where the front of +the coffle had halted, to allow the rear to come up. Here when the coffle +had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their bayonets, and myself +with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert; and a few branches were +the only laurels which covered the tomb of the brave. + +We did not come up to the coffle till they had halted for the night near +a pool of water shaded with ground palm-trees. Here I was informed that +two of the soldiers were not come up; one (Baron) was seen about a mile +from the halting place; the other (Hill) was supposed to be three or four +miles behind. Fired two muskets every quarter of an hour; one to call +their attention, and the other about half a minute after to give the +direction. At half past seven Hill came up, being directed entirely by +the sound of the muskets. At eleven o'clock saw some lights in the woods, +and heard people holla: in a little time five people came, bringing with +them Bloore, the man who had gone in quest of the ass. He had gone back +as far as the Black River, crossed it and made signs to the people about +the ass and the load. As they did not rightly understand him, they +thought that some party had fallen on the coffle, and that this soldier +had run away. They therefore came with him to see if they could come in +for their share, or at least receive some reward for coming along with +the man. Paid them ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Baron, +and I would give them ten bars more if they found him. + +June 29th.--At day-break fired muskets for Baron; and as it was evident +he must have wandered from the track made by the asses, and it was in +vain to look for him in so extensive a wilderness, at half past six +o'clock loaded the asses and set out. Two more of the soldiers affected +with the fever. Route in the morning rocky. Traveled twelve miles without +halting, in order to reach a watering place. About two miles before we +came to the watering place, Bloore, the soldier who had come up during +the night, sat down under the shade of a tree; and when I desired him to +proceed, he said he was rather fatigued, and when he had cooled himself, +he would follow. I assured him that the halting place was only a very +little way off, and advised him by all means not to fall asleep. We +halted on an elevated table land: the water was only rain collected in +the hollow places of the rock. At half past four o'clock, as Bloore had +not come up, I sent the Sergeant on one of the horses to bring him +forward; he returned at sun-set, having seen nothing of him, and having +rode several miles past the place. I suspected that the serjeant might +have rode past him asleep under the tree; I therefore got three +volunteers to go with me, and look for him. It was now quite dark. We +collected a large bundle of dry grassland taking out a handful at a time, +kept up a constant light, in order to frighten the lions which are very +numerous in these woods. When we reached the tree under which he lay +down, we made a fire. Saw the place where he had pressed down the grass, +and the marks of his feet: went to the west along the pathway, and +examined for the marks of his feet, thinking he might possibly have +mistaken the direction. Found none: fired several muskets. Hollowed, and +set fire to the grass. Returned to the tree and examined all round; saw +no blood nor the foot marks of any wild beasts. Fired six muskets more. +As any further search was likely to be fruitless, (for we did not dare to +walk far from the track for fear of losing ourselves) we returned to the +tents. One of Isaaco's people shot an antelope in the evening, which more +than supplied us all with meat. Much troubled in the night with wolves. + +June 30th.--Early in the morning set forwards, and descended from the +table land into a more fertile plain. Vast numbers of monkies on the +rocks. Reached Kandy after a march of ten miles, all very much fatigued. +This is but a small town; the large town having been taken and burnt by +Daisy's son about two years ago, and all the people carried away. Mr. +Anderson and Mr. Scott sick of the lever. + +July 1st.--Covered a load of beads with the skin of the antelope. One of +the bundles containing all our small _seed beads_ stolen during the +night; made all the search I could, but in vain: I could not recover it. +As we were short of rice, and none could be purchased here, determined to +push on as quick as possible; but the men were so very sickly, that I +judged it imprudent to trust the baggage and asses without proper +drivers. Employed in dividing the asses amongst the healthy men. + +July 2d.--Set forwards. Two more of the soldiers sick of the fever. When +we had travelled about three miles, one of the soldiers (Roger M'Millan) +became so delirious, that it was found impossible to carry him forwards. +Left him at a village called _Sanjeekotta_. I regretted much being +under the necessity of leaving in the hour of sickness and distress, a +man who had grown old in the service of his country. He had been +thirty-one years a soldier, twelve times a corporal, nine times a +serjeant; but an unfortunate attachment to the _bottle_ always +returned him into the ranks. + +We reached _Koeena_ about three o'clock, all very much fatigued. I +felt myself very sickly, having lifted up and reloaded a great many asses +on the road. The village of _Koeena_ is walled round, and it is +surrounded on three sides with rocky precipices. Had a severe tornado at +seven o'clock, which put out the watch-fire and made us all crowd into +the tents. When the violence of the squall was over, we heard a +particular sort of roaring or growling, not unlike the noise of a wild +boar; there seemed to be more than one of them, and they went all round +our cattle. Fired two muskets to make them keep at a distance; but as +they still kept prowling round us, we collected a bunch of withered +grass, and went with Lieutenant Martyn in search of the animals, +suspecting them to be wild boars. We got near one of them, and fired +several shots into the bush, and one at him as he went off among the long +grass. When we returned to the tents, I learned by enquiring of the +natives that the animals we had been in search of were not boars, but +young lions; and they assured me that unless we kept a very good look out +they would probably kill some of our cattle during the night. About +midnight these young lions attempted to seize one of the asses, which so +much alarmed the rest that they broke their ropes, and came at full +gallop in amongst the tent ropes. Two of the lions followed them, and +came so close to us that the sentry cut at one of them with his sword, +but did not dare to fire for fear of killing the asses. Neglected to wind +up the watch. + +July 3d.--Departed from Koeena, and halted during the heat of the day at +Koombandi, distant six miles. Here the guides that I had hired from +Kandy, were to return; and I had agreed with them to carry back +M'Millan's knapsack, and some amber and beads to purchase provisions for +him; but three people came up to us with two asses for sale, and they +informed me that they left Sanjeekotta early in the morning; that the +soldier who was left there, had died during the night, and the natives +had buried him in a corn field near the town. Purchased the asses in +order to carry forwards the sick. + +About three o'clock left Koombandi. Mr. Anderson and Mr. Scott were so +sick, that they wished to remain here for the night; with much +entreating, persuaded them to mount their horses and go on. Three miles +east of the village, William Alston, one of the seamen whom I received +from His Majesty's ship Squirrel, became so faint that he fell from his +ass, and allowed the ass to run away. Set him on my horse, but found he +could not sit without holding him. Replaced him on the ass, but he still +tumbled off: put him again on the horse, and made one man keep him +upright, while I led the horse. But as he made no exertion to keep +himself erect, it was impossible to hold him on the horse, and after +repeated tumbles he begged to be left in the woods till morning. I left a +loaded pistol with him, and put some cartridges into the crown of his +hat. At sun-set reached Fonilla, a small walled village on the banks of +the Wonda, which is here called _Ba Woolima_ (Red river), and +towards its source it has the name of _Ba qui_ (White river), the +middle part of its course being called _Wonda._ It had swelled two +feet perpendicular by the rains which had fallen to the southward, and +was very muddy; but cannot even in its present state be reckoned a large +river. + +July 4th--Agreed with the canoe people to carry over our baggage and +cattle for sixty bars. There being but one canoe, it was near noon before +all the bundles were carried over. The transporting of the asses was very +difficult. The river being shallow and rocky; whenever their feet touched +the bottom they generally stood still. Our guide, Isaaco, was very active +in pushing the asses into the water, and shoving along the canoe; but as +he was afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course +of the day he attempted to drive six of the asses across the river +farther down where the water was shallower. When he had reached the +middle of the river a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly seizing +him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful presence of +mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger into its eye; +on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further +shore, calling out for a knife. But the crocodile returned and seized him +by the other thigh, and again pulled him under water; he had recourse to +the same expedient, and thrust his fingers into its eyes with such +violence that it again quitted him; and when it rose, flounced about on +the surface of the water as if stupid, and then swam down the middle of +the river. Isaaco proceeded to the other side, bleeding very much. As +soon as the canoe returned I went over, and found him very much +lacerated. The wound on the left thigh was four inches in length: that on +the right not quite so large, but very deep; besides several single teeth +wounds on his back. Drew the lips of the wounds together with slips of +adhesive plaister secured with a roller; and as we were not far from a +village, he thought it best for him to go forwards before his wounds had +become very painful. He accordingly rode forwards to the village of +Boolinkoomboo on one of our horses. Found myself very sick, and unable to +stand erect without feeling a tendency to faint; the people so sickly +that it was with some difficulty we got the loads put into the tents, +though it threatened rain. To my great astonishment, _Ashton_, the +sailor whom I had left in the woods the evening before, came up quite +naked, having been stripped of his clothes by three of the natives during +the night. Found his fever much abated. + +[Footnote: The name is thus written in Mr. Park's MS.; but it seems to be +a mistake for _Alston_, v. ante p. 87.] + +July 5th.--With great difficulty got the asses loaded, but had not a +sufficient number of spare asses for the sick. Set one of them on my +horse, and walked, feeling a remission of the fever, though still very +giddy and unwell. We soon reached Boolinkoomboo, it being only two miles +from the landing place. This village is sometimes called Moiaharra: it +does not contain above one hundred people. On collecting the asses, found +that three were missing, besides a sickly one, which was too weak to +cross the river, and was eaten by the people of Fonilla. All this +diminished our means of carrying forward the sick. + +I now found my situation very perplexing. To go forward without Isaaco to +Keminoom, I knew would involve us in difficulties; as Keminoom's sons are +reckoned the greatest thieves and blackguards on the whole route. To stop +till Isaaco recovered (an event which seemed very doubtful), would throw +us into the violence of the rains. There was no other person that I could +trust; and, what was worst of all, we had only _two days rice_, and +a great scarcity prevailed in the country. I determined to wait three +days, to see how Isaaco's wounds looked, and in the mean time sent two of +his people away to Serracorra with an ass and three strings of No. 5. +amber to purchase rice. + +July 6th.--All the people either sick, or in a state of great debility, +except one. Bought all the milk I could find, and boiled a camp kettle +full of strong decoction of barks every day. + +July 7th.--Dressed Isaaco's wounds: they looked remarkably well. + +July 8th.--Waiting very anxiously for the return of Isaaco's people with +the rice, being now on very short allowance. + +July 9th.--In the afternoon Isaaco's people returned, bringing with them +l23 lbs. of clean rice; Isaaco's wounds looking well, and beginning to +discharge good pus. Latitude by uncertain obs. mer. alt. of the sun 13 +11'. + +July 10th.--Departed from Boolinkoomboo, and eight miles N.E. passed the +village of Serrababoo; close to which is a stream called Kinyaco, about +knee deep, running to the N.W. It was very difficult to cross, on account +of the fissures in the rocks which form its bed. Several of the asses +fell, and their loads were of course wet. From this we travelled due +North, over a ridge of rocks, which formed the only passage across a +chain of hills. When we had crossed this, we travelled six miles on a +rocky and almost impassable road, and a little before sun-set, to our +great joy, reached Sabooseera (Dooty Matta). This is a scattered unwalled +village. Latitude by mer. alt. of moon 13° 50'. + + + + +Chapter IV. + + +Arrival at Keminoom, or Manniakorro, on the Ba lee river.--Visit to the +Chief.--Depredations upon the coffle by the inhabitants--Continued +attacks from banditti as far as the Ba Woolima river--Difficulties in +passing it--temporary bridge made by the natives.--Astronomical +observations--Arrival at Mareena; inhospitable conduct of his +inhabitants--Bangassi; interview with the King--Continued sickness, and +deaths among the soldiers.--Arrival at Nummasoolo--Obliged to leave five +of the sick behind--reach Surtaboo--Sobee--Affray between Isaaco and two +soldiers--Balanding--Balandoo--More of the soldiers fall +behind--Koolihori--Greatly annoyed by wolves. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +July 11th.--From Sabooseera, or Mallaboo, we travelled towards the West +and North West till noon, when we arrived at Keminoom, or Maniakorro. +This is a walled town fortified in the strongest manner I have yet seen +in Africa; a section of the walls and ditch would have nearly the +following appearance, + +[Illustration] + +Pitched our tents under a tree near the Ba lee, which runs here with +great velocity, and breaks into small cataracts. + +July 12th.--Went in the morning with Isaaco and waited on Keminoom, or +Mansa Numma, as he is commonly called. I took with me + + Bars. + Amber, No. 2 25 + Ditto, No. 4 15 + Barraloolos 20 + Beads 33 + Scarlet 10 + Balls and flints 2 + Looking glasses 5 + ___ + 100; + +A soldier's musket, +A pair of handsome pistols silver mounted. + +He sent them all back, and I was forced to put a silver mounted gun on it +before he would accept of it; and likewise + +To Eerujama, the King's brother, + Amber, No. 2 10 + Barraloolo 5 + +To his son, + Amber 10 + To the King's people 10 + To eight Finnis for singing some nonsense 8 + +Observed mer. alt. of the sun 163 24'; latitude 14 0' + +In the evening had such of the soldiers as were most healthy dressed in +their red coats; and at Numma's request went with them to the town, where +they went through some movements, and fired. + +July 13th.--Very desirous to be gone, as we found the people thieves to a +man; in fact we have never yet been at a place where so much theft and +impudence prevails. This can only be accounted for, by considering that +Mansa Numma is the reputed father of more than thirty children; and as +they all consider themselves as far above the common people, they treat +every person with contempt, and even steal in the most open manner. By +the side of the river are a great number of human bones (more than thirty +skulls.) On enquiring the reason, I was informed that Mansa Numma always +inflicted capital punishments himself, and that the bones I saw were +those of criminals. I had reason to regret, that capital punishments +seldom or never extend to the real or reputed descendants of the King. + +July 14th.--As soon as day dawned, struck the tents and loaded the asses. +The townspeople gathered round us in crowds. They had stolen during our +stay here four great coats, a large bundle of beads, a musket, a pair of +pistols, and several other things. Before we had advanced a musket shot +from the town (though we had one of the King's sons on horseback as a +protector), one of the townspeople carried away a bag from one of the +asses, containing some things belonging to one of the soldiers. The +King's son, Lieutenant Martyn, and myself rode after him, and were lucky +enough to come up with him, and recover the bag; but before we could +rejoin the coffle, another had run off with a musket that was fastened on +one of the loads. + +We proceeded in this manner in a constant state of alarm; and I had great +reason to fear that the impudence of the people would provoke some of the +soldiers to run, them through with their bayonets. About two miles from +Maniakorro, as we were ascending a rocky part of the road, several of the +asses fell with their loads. I rode a little from the path to see if a +more easy ascent could not be found; and as I was holding my musket +carelessly in my hand, and looking round, two of Numma's sons came up to +me; one of them requested me to give him some snuff. Suspecting no ill +treatment from two people, whom I had often seen with the King, and at +our tents, I turned round to assure him that I never took snuff; at this +instant the other (called Woosaba) coming up behind me, snatched the +musket from my hand, and ran off with it. I instantly sprung from the +saddle and followed him with my sword, calling to Mr. Anderson to ride +back, and tell some of the people to look after my horse. Mr. Anderson +got within musket shot of him, but seeing it was Numma's son, had some +doubts about shooting him, and called to me if he should fire. Luckily I +did not hear him, or I might possibly have recovered my musket, at the +risk of a long palaver, and perhaps the loss of half our baggage. The +thief accordingly made his escape amongst the rocks, and when I returned +to my horse, I found the other of the royal descendants had stolen my +great coat. + +I went and informed the King's son, whom we had hired as a guide, of what +had happened; and requested to know how I should act if any of the people +should steal from the baggage. He assured me that after what had +happened, I should be justified in shooting the first that attempted to +steal from the loads. Made such of the soldiers as were near me load +their muskets and be ready. The sky became cloudy, and by the time that +we had advanced about five miles from the town, we experienced a very +heavy tornado. During the rain another of Numma's sons snatched up and +run off with one of the soldiers muskets and a pair of pistols, which he +had laid down while he was reloading his ass. + +We halted amongst the rocks and put off the loads, all very wet. Turned +the asses to feed, and cooked some rice, although it rained very heavily. +One of the negro boys gave the alarm that three people were driving away +our asses. I followed with some of our people: the thieves made their +escape amongst the rocks, but without carrying away any of the asses, +though they had untied the feet of three and fastened a fourth to a bush. +Collected the asses and began to load. Whilst we were loading one of the +asses strayed a little from the rest, about two hundred yards, and to my +astonishment a man came from amongst the rocks, took off the load, and +began to cut it open with his knife. Before any person could come at him, +he left the load and run up the rocks. Mr. Scott and one of the soldiers +fired at him, but did not hit him. Went on. Road very rocky. Told the +soldiers to shoot the first that took any thing from the baggage. Found +some of the asses and loads lying at the difficult places in the road, +and often two loads with only one half-sick soldier to guard them. Kept +in the rear, as I perceived they had a mind to take some of the loads and +asses. I saw the thieves peeping over the rocks, and making signs to +their comrades, who seemed very desirous of assisting us in putting on +our loads. Put one of the loads on my horse, and another on Mr. +Anderson's, and luckily cleared the difficult passes of the rocks by sun +set, without losing any thing, though surrounded by at least a dozen +experienced thieves. When we reached the bottom of the rocky pass, we +went on with more ease, and came up to the rest of the party about eight +o'clock. They had stopped for the night in the woods, and so were all our +clothes; [Footnote: It is thus in Mr. Park's MS. There seems to be some +omission.] and in fact we passed a very uncomfortable night amongst the +wet grass, and exposed to a very heavy dew. + +July 15th.--Early in the morning proceeded, and went on very slowly in +the rear, by which means we were separated from the front. Horses loaded +as usual. When we reached the cultivated land, which surrounds the +village of Ganamboo, we came up to one of the soldiers, who informed us, +that a man habited as a slave had come from amongst the bushes, and +instantly seized on his musket and knapsack, which were fastened on the +top of his load. The soldier struggled with him for his musket, and +wrested it from him; on which the thief let go the knapsack, and +attempted to make off; but when he heard the soldier cock his piece, +expecting to be instantly shot, he threw himself down on the road and +roared out in the most pitiable manner. The soldier took a steady aim at +him, but unfortunately his musket flashed in the pan, and the slave +started up and ran in amongst the bushes. + +Ganamboo is only a small walled village: it is situated about ten miles +East half North from Maniakorro. + +July 10th.--Left Ganamboo, but the soldiers and asses were so much +fatigued, that we were forced to stop at Ballandoo (Dooty Mari Umfa) +during the night. We had the most tremendous storm of thunder and +lightning I ever saw. I was so confident that the tent would be struck +by the lightning, that I went to some distance to avoid the explosion of +our gunpowder. + +July 17th.--Left Ballandoo at eight o'clock, and reached _Seransang_ +about noon. All horses loaded; mine fell down under his load, and I was +forced to sit by him till an ass was sent from the halting place. +Seransang is a scattered but populous town, and the land is cleared +round it for a great distance. One of our best asses stolen during the +night. + +July 18th.--Departed from Seransang, having shifted the loads so as to +have the horses free, in order to prevent theft. We had not travelled +much above a mile, when two suspicious people came up. One of them +walked slowly in the rear; and the other passed on, seemingly in great +haste. I desired Mr. Anderson to watch the one in the rear, whilst I +rode on at such a distance as just to keep sight of the other. The road +making a turn, he was concealed from me by the bushes, and took +advantage of this opportunity to carry away a great coat from a load +which was driven by one of the sick men. I fortunately got a view of him +as he was running off among the bushes, and galloping in a direction so +as to get before him, quickly came so near him that he leaped into some +very thick bushes. When I rode round, he went out at the side opposite +to me; and in this manner I hunted him amongst the bushes for some time, +but never losing sight of him. At last he run past a spreading tree, and +jumping back, stood close to the trunk of it. I thought I should +certainly lose him if I did not avail myself of the present opportunity. +I accordingly fired, and dropping my musket on the pummel of the saddle, +drew out one of the pistols, and told him if he offered to move, I would +instantly shoot him dead. "Do not kill me, white man," he exclaimed, "I +cannot run from you, you have broke my leg." I now observed the blood +streaming down his leg; and when he pulled up his cloth, I saw that the +ball had passed through his leg about two inches below the knee joint. +He climbed a little way up the tree, which was of easy ascent; always +exclaiming in a pitiable tone of voice, "do not kill me." Several of the +people belonging to the coffle, on hearing the shot fired, came running; +and amongst others the guide appointed us by Keminoom, who insisted that +I should instantly shoot the thief dead; otherwise he said I did not +fulfil the orders of his master, who had directed me to shoot every +person that stole from me. I had great difficulty in preventing him from +killing him, and was happy to recover the great coat, and leave the +thief bleeding amongst the branches of the tree. + +We proceeded without further molestation till about three o'clock in the +afternoon, when it came on a tornado. During the rain one of the sick +had fallen a little behind, and four people seizing him, stripped off +his jacket. He followed them at a distance; and when they came up to Mr. +Anderson and myself, he called out to us to shoot one of them, as they +had taken his jacket. I had my pocket handkerchief on the lock of my gun +to keep the priming dry. When they observed me remove it, one of them +pulled out the jacket from under his cloak, and laid it on one of the +asses. Mr. Anderson followed them on horseback, and I kept as near him +as I could on foot, my horse being loaded. After following them about +three miles, they struck into the woods; and suspecting that they had a +mind to return and steal some of the loads from the fatigued asses in +the rear, I returned with Mr. Scott, and found that one of the soldiers +had lost his knapsack, and another his jacket. But from their +description, the robbers were not the same as had formerly passed. + +Continued in the rear. When we came within a mile of the town of +Nummaboo, the road passes near some high rocks. The asses being a little +way before us, two of the robbers first seen came from amongst the +rocks, and were going towards the asses; but when they observed us +coming up, they attempted to slide off unobserved among the rocky. When +I called to one of them to stop and tell me what they were looking +after, they came near us; but as they had nothing of ours in their +possession, we could not stop them, and they accordingly passed to the +westward. Mr. Scott and I went and examined that part of the rocks where +we observed them come out, and were lucky enough to find a soldier's +coat, a camp kettle, and a number of other articles, which had probably +been their share of the booty; for I learned on my arrival at the town, +that the ass which carried the muskets belonging to the sick, had been +stopped by four people near these rocks, and six muskets, a pair of +pistols, and a knapsack taken away. To complete the business, J. Bowden, +one of the sick, did not come up; and we had little doubt but that he +had been stripped and murdered by these very people in the woods. We +likewise had a very good ass stolen during the night. + +July 19th.--Having purchased an ass in lieu of the one stolen, we left +Nummaboo, which is a walled village, and proceeded onwards. Had two +tornadoes; the last, about eleven o'clock, wetted us much, and made the +road slippery. Two asses unable to go on. Put their loads on the horses, +and left them. Mr. Scott's horse unable to walk: left it to our guide. +At noon came to the ruins of a town. Found two more of the asses unable +to carry their loads. Hired people to carry on the loads, and a boy to +drive the asses. Past the ruins of another town at half past twelve, +where I found two of the sick, who had laid themselves down under a +tree, and refused to rise, (they were afterwards stripped by the +Negroes, and came naked to our tents next morning). Shortly after this, +came to an ass lying on the road unable to proceed with its load. Put +part of the load on my horse, which was already heavily loaded. Took a +knapsack on my back. The soldier carried the remainder and drove the ass +before him. + +We arrived on the banks of the Ba Woolima at half past one o'clock. This +river is but narrow, not being more than fifty or sixty feet over; but +was so swelled with the rains as to be twenty feet deep at the place +where we proposed to cross it. Our first attempt was to fell a tree +close to the river, that by its fall would reach across the stream and +form a bridge: but after cutting down four, they all fell in such a +manner as to be of no use; for though the tops of one reached the rocks +on the farther shore when it fell, yet the violence of the current swept +it away. In this manner we fatigued ourselves till sunset, when we gave +up the attempt. + +Observed the following emersion of Jupiter's satellites. + + H. M. S. +Third satellite emerged by Watch M. S. 9 25 18 + Watch too slow 1 55 + +First satellite emerged by Watch 9 36 10 + Watch too slow 2 34 + +July 20th.--Altitudes taken for the time. + +H. M. S. ° ' H. M. S. ° ' +7 6 45 21 21 7 9 42 22 42 +0 7 25 21 40 0 10 26 23 2 +0 8 8 21 55 0 11 3 23 18 + +7 13 10 24 18 7 16 27 25 49 +0 13 44 24 33 0 17 0 26 3 +0 14 14 24 46 0 17 30 26 16 + + ° ' " +Obser. Mer. Alt. 166 4 0 + 1/2 83 2 0 + 0 16 0 + 83 18 0 + 6 42 0 + 20 43 0 + +Longitude 5 0 13 W. +Latitude 14 1 0 N. + +The passage of the river being the great desideratum, I proposed a raft +to be hauled from side to side with ropes; whilst the Mandingoes were +decidedly of opinion that nothing would answer our purpose but a bridge, +which they said they would complete by two o'clock. I set to work with +the carpenters to make a raft; but when the logs were cut into lengths, +we could not muster healthy people enough to carry them to the water +side. We were forced to give up the attempt and trust entirely to the +Negro bridge, which was constructed in the following manner. A straight +pole was cut to sound the depth of the river, and notches made on it to +shew the depth at different distances from the shore. Two straight trees +were now cut, and their tops fastened strongly together with slips of +bark. These were launched across the stream with the assistance of two +people, and a rope on the further side; the roots of the trees were +firmly fastened with ropes to the roots of the trees on each side of the +river. Along the upper side of these trees they planted a range of +upright forked sticks, cut correctly to the lengths on the sounding +pole. These upright forks supported two other trees tied as the first, +but which were not, like the first, permitted to sink into the water, +but were kept about a foot above the surface by means of the forks. +Another range of forks was placed a little farther up the stream, which +likewise supported two trees fastened as the above; the whole was +completed with cross sticks. The two trees first laid over, which were +permitted to sink in the water, served to prevent the stream from +running away with the forks whose roots sloped down the stream; whilst +the weight of the current pressed on and kept firm the roots of such as +were placed up the stream. A section of the bridge would have the +following appearance. + +[Illustration: +A. Trees first laid across. +B. First range of forks. +C. Trees supported by first range. +D. Second range of forks. +E. Trees supported by ditto. +F. Cross sticks for walking on. + +If the river was dried up, the structure would have somewhat of this +appearance.] + +Our people being all so sickly, I hired the Negroes to carry over all +the baggage, and swim over the asses. Our baggage was laid on the rocks +on the East side of the river; but such was our sickly state that we +were unable to carry it up the bank. Francis Beedle, one of the +soldiers, was evidently dying of the fever; and having in vain +attempted, with the assistance of one of his messmates, to carry him +over, I was forced to leave him on the West bank; thinking it very +probable that he would die in the course of the night. + +July 21st.--Hired Isaaco's people to carry the bundles up the bank, and +assist in loading all the asses. One of the soldiers crossed the bridge, +and found Beedle expiring. Did not stop to bury him, the sun being high; +but set out immediately. Country woody, but level. About half past ten +o'clock came to Mr. Scott lying by the side of the path, so very sick +that he could not walk. Shortly after Mr. Martyn laid down in the same +state. My horse being loaded, and myself, as usual, walking on foot and +driving an ass, I could give them no assistance. I came in sight of the +town of Mareena a little before twelve; and at the same time was happy +to see two of Isaaco's people coming back with two asses to take the +loads off the horses in the rear. Sent them back for Mr. Scott and Mr. +Martyn, and proceeded to the town. Some of the people, who had crossed +the river with us, had informed the people of Mareena of the treatment +we had experienced in passing from Maniakorro to the Ba Woolima, which +district is called Kissi; and withal had told the people that our coffle +was a Dummulafong, a thing sent to be eaten, or in English _fair game_ +for every body. The inhabitants of Mareena were resolved to come in for +their share; they accordingly stole five of our asses during the night; +but felt themselves much disappointed next morning, + +July 22d,--when they understood, that instead of proceeding to Bangassi, +we proposed to send forward a messenger to inform the king of the bad +treatment we had experienced. Three of them returned the asses they had +stolen, but the other two would not. About noon we loaded all the horses +and asses; and I hired two young men to carry forwards two trunks, the +load of one of the asses which was stolen. Bangassi is only six miles +distant from Mareena. It is a large town, fortified in the same manner +as Maniakorro; but is four or five times as large. Pitched our tents +under a tree to the East of the town. + +July 23d.--Received a present from Serenummo, the King, of a fine +bullock and two very large calabashes of sweet milk; he likewise sent +the two asses which the people of Mareena had stolen. Took from our +baggage the following articles, and went with Isaaco to the King. + + Bars. + +To the King, amber No. 2 30 + Ditto. No. 4 20 + Barraloolos 30 + Beads 30 + Looking glasses 5 + Balls and flints 2 + ----- + Bars 117 + + Mr. Anderson's musket. + Ditto sword. + Ditto pistols. + +To the King's son, amber No. 4 5 + Barraloolo 5 + ------ + Bars 10 + +To the person who assisted in settling the palaver, + amber 10 +To the good people in the town 10 +To Isaaco's landlord for a goat 10 + ------ + Bars 30 + +The town is large and populous, and is better fortified than even +Maniakorro. We found Serenummo seated in a sort of shade, surrounded by +only a few friends; orders having been given not to allow any person to +enter it. He enquired if I was the white man who had formerly passed +through the country, and what could induce me to come back again; with a +number of such questions. To all which I gave the best answers I could; +and then told him that I did not come to purchase slaves or gold; I did +not come to take any man's trade from him or any man's money; I did not +come to make money, but to spend it; and for the truth of these +assertions I could appeal to every person who knew me or had travelled +with me. I farther added, it was my intention at present to travel +peaceably through his kingdom into Bambarra; and that as a mark of my +regard for his name and character, I had brought a few articles which my +guide would present to him. Here Isaaco spread out on the floor the +articles before mentioned. The King looked at them with that sort of +indifference which an African always affects towards things he has not +before seen. However much he may admire them, he must never appear in +the least surprised. He told me I should have permission to pass; and he +would make his son take care of us till we arrived at Sego; but it would +be some days before he was ready. I told him I was anxious to be in +Bambarra, as I found my people very sickly; and if he would appoint me a +guide, I would esteem it a favour. In fact I knew before, that this son +proposed going to Sego with the annual tribute, which amounts to three +hundred minkallis of gold or thereabouts; but I knew that the gold was +not yet all collected, and that part of it would probably be bought with +the merchandize I had given him. + +July 25th.--Bought two asses for fifty-six bars of amber. During our +stay at this town we were plentifully supplied with milk on moderate +terms. I always purchased two camp kettles full every morning for the +men, in hopes of recruiting them before we set forwards for the Niger; +but they still continue sick and spiritless. Corporal _Powal_ is +dangerously ill of the fever, and _M'Inelli_ is affected with the +dysentery to such a degree, that I have no hopes of his recovery. He was +removed yesterday to the shade of a tree at a small distance from the +tents; and not being brought near in the evening, he was very near being +torn to pieces by the wolves. They were smelling at his feet when he +awakened, and then set up such a horrid howl, that poor M'Inelli, sick +as he was, started up and came to the tents before the sentry could +reach the place where he had slept. + +July 26th.--Corporal Powal died during the night. Buried him this +morning; two dollars and a half in his pocket, for which I am +accountable. Overhauled the ass-saddles, and adjusted the loads, +proposing to leave this to-morrow morning early. + + ° ' " +Observed mer. alt. Sun 168 26 0 + ------------ + 1/2 84 13 0 + 0 16 0 + ------------ + 84 29 0 + ------------ + ZD. 5 31 0 + D. 19 31 0 + ------------ + Latitude 14 0 0 + ------------ + +July 27th.--The morning being rainy, we did not depart from Bangassi +till about nine o'clock. Left here M'Inelli. Paid the Dooty ten bars of +amber to purchase provision for him and give him lodging. Shortly after +leaving the town, three of the soldiers laid down under a tree, and +refused to proceed; their names _Frair, Thomson_, and _Hercules_. About +a quarter of a mile farther, James Trott, one of the carpenters brought +from Portsmouth, refused to go on, being sick of the fever. I drove on +his ass, and desired him to return to Bangassi. Found myself very sick +and faint, having to drive my horse loaded with rice, and an ass with +the pit saws. Came to an eminence, from which I had a view of some very +distant mountains to the East half South. The certainty that the Niger +washes the Southern base of these mountains made me forget my fever; and +I thought of nothing all the way but how to climb over their blue +summits. + +Reached Nummasoolo at two o'clock. This has formerly been a large town; +but being destroyed by war some years ago, nearly three-fourths of the +town are in ruins. Before we had time to pitch the tent properly, the +rain came down on us, and wetted us all completely, both men and +bundles. This was a very serious affair to us, many of our articles of +merchandize being perishable. Slept very uncomfortably in wet clothes on +the wet ground. Troubled in the night with a lion; he came so near that +the sentry fired at him, but it was so dark that it was impossible to +take a good aim. All the asses pulled up the pins to which they were +fastened, and run together as near the men as they could. As the sick +soldiers before mentioned did not come up before sun-set, I concluded +they had all returned to Bangassi; and the Dooty's son coming up on +horseback, informed me that they had really returned to his father's +house, and wished to know what I meant to do respecting them. I told him +that I wished my people to be taken proper care of, and gave him ten +bars of amber for his care in coming to inform me of them. I likewise +put into his possession three strings of amber of forty bars each, and +told him how to dispose of them for the use of the sick. I likewise told +him that, if any of them should recover, if he would send a proper +person forward with them to Bambakoo, I would give him an Indian baft, +or ten bars of scarlet, which he preferred. At the same time I wrote the +following note to the men. + + +"DEAR SOLDIERS, + +"I am sorry to learn that you have returned to Bangassi. I have sent in +charge of the bearer of this three complete strings of amber; one of +which will procure rice for forty days; the second will purchase milk or +fowls for the same time; and the third will buy provisions for you on +the road till you arrive at the Niger. + +"Your's + +"M. PARK." + + +July 28th.--Rained all day. Remained in the tent at Nummasoolo. + +July 29.--Divided the men's clothes who were left behind amongst the +other men; many of them being in great want of clothes, and the nights +being now cold and damp. Found five dollars in J. Trott's knapsack, for +which I am accountable. Spread out the rice to dry; found it hot and +much damaged. Some people arrived from the East, who informed us that a +stream on the road, which is usually dry, was so much swelled by the +rain that no ass could cross it. Halted here during the day to dry the +different articles. + +July 30th.--Departed from Nummasoolo. Was under the necessity of leaving +here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted +much leaving this man; he had naturally a cheerful disposition; and he +used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our +dear native land. + +About five miles East of Nummasoolo passed the stream before mentioned, +flowing to the S.E. The water had subsided, and was only about eighteen +inches deep, but flowed very rapidly. Many asses fell, and had their +loads wetted. It likewise rained two hours on the march. Crossed a ridge +of hills through an opening. Road tolerably good except in two places. +We descended on the East side, and reached Surtaboo, a small ruined +village, about two o'clock. Here I learnt that the front of the coffle +had gone on to a village about four miles further; but the asses in the +rear being all very much fatigued, and lying down with their loads +frequently, I judged it prudent to halt till some fresh asses should be +sent to my assistance. + +We had not halted here above an hour, when three of Isaaco's people and +two asses came back; and with their help we arrived at _Sobee_ at seven +o'clock. On the road we passed the _last_ of the St. Jago asses, the +whole forty having either died or been abandoned on the road at +different places. We were all very wet, for it rained almost the whole +way; and all very hungry, having tasted nothing since the preceding +evening. The town of _Sobee_ has changed its situation _three_ times. It +was taken about ten years ago by Daisy, King of Kaarta, with thirteen +horsemen and some of his slaves on foot. They carried off five hundred +slaves, two hundred of which were women. Such as escaped rebuilt the +town about a mile to the East of its former situation; but when it had +acquired some degree of prosperity, it was destroyed by Mansong, King of +Bambarra. The present town is built nearer the foot of the hills; part +of it is walled, which serves as a sort of citadel. There is plenty of +corn and rice here on moderate terms; but they have not yet had time to +recruit their herds of cattle. + +July 31st.--Rained hard all the morning, and flying showers all day. +Halted at _Sobee_. During the night one of the town's-people attempted +to steal one of the soldier's pieces, some of which were standing +against a tree close to the tent. Lieutenant Martyn was sleeping under +the tree; and hearing somebody moving the muskets, he no sooner observed +that it was a Negro, than he snatched one of the muskets and fired at +the thief as he was running off with one of the muskets. Whether the +ball touched him or not we could not learn; but the thief dropped the +musket, and we found it with the pouch and bayonet in the morning. + +August 1st.--Early this morning purchased an ass for a pistol, a baft, +and a Mandingo cloth. We set out at seven o'clock. Immediately on the +East of the town came to another stream flowing towards the S.S.W. It +was so deep, that the whole of the bundles had to be carried over on +men's heads. During this, being surrounded by thieves on all sides, +Isaaco unfortunately struck two of the soldiers; which action had nearly +cost him his life, one of the soldiers attempting to stab him with his +bayonet, when Mr. Anderson prevented him; and as I reproved Isaaco for +his conduct in the sharpest manner, he went off in a _pet_ with his +people, leaving us to find our way across the river in the best manner +we could. I hired four people to carry over the loads; and stood myself +as sentry over the thieves. In this manner the whole of the baggage was +carried over with much less loss than we had sustained at any other +river. The asses were swam over, and the whole only cost one string of +No. 5; but I had to pay fifty stones to the Dooty's son for asses going +on the corn. As soon as all was over we loaded the asses and set +forwards. At sunset we reached _Balanding_. We had only time to pitch +our tent, when the rain came on; indeed we had no time for cooking our +victuals, for though all the soldiers cooked, yet the rain came on +before our kettle was ready; and Messrs. Anderson, Scott, Martyn, and +myself, all slept without having tasted any thing during the day. + +August 2d.--Rainy. Halted at Balanding. + +August 3d.--Sun rose E. 3°S. Departed from Balanding, and halted at +Balandoo, a walled village about four miles to the East by South. Bought +two sheep for one barraloolo. + +August 4th.--Departed from Balandoo. About a mile to the East saw the +hill of Sobee bearing N.W. by compass. About this place Lawrence Cahill, +one of the soldiers, who had complained of sickness for some days, fell +behind; and I hired a person to drive his ass, telling him to come on at +his leisure. At eleven o'clock crossed a stream running S.E. which gave +us great trouble, the banks being very steep and slippery. Crossed the +same stream again at half past twelve, running E. by N. In the course of +this day's march four of the soldiers were unable to attend to their +asses. Mr. Scott, being very sick, rode my horse; and I drove one of the +asses. So very much weakened were the men, that when their loads fell +off, they could not lift them on again. I assisted in loading thirteen +asses in the course of the march. We reached Koolihori at three o'clock. +This town is partly walled; but the greater part of the huts are without +the walls. As soon as the tents were pitched, the rain commenced, and +continued all night. We had not time to cook, and the rain prevented the +watch fire from burning; owing to which one of our asses was killed by +the wolves. It was only sixteen feet distant from a bush under which one +of the men was sleeping. + +August 5th.--Morning hazy. Halted, resolving to travel at two o'clock, +and sleep in the woods, the Ba Woolli being too far to reach in one +march. Bought some ripe maize of this year's growth. + + ° ' " +Obser. mer. alt. Sun-- 172 45 0 + --------- + 86 22 0-1/2 + 0 16 0 + --------- + 86 38 0-1/2 + --------- + 3 22 0 + 17 3 0 + --------- +Latitude-- 13 41 0 + +The whole route from Bangassi is marked with ruined towns and villages; +some of them are rebuilt, but by far the greater number are still in +ruins. We saw scarcely any cattle on the route, and the avidity of the +people of Koolihori for animal food, or perhaps their own peculiar +taste, made them eat what the wolves had left of our ass. The wolves had +eat only the bowels and heart, &c. so that the people had the four +quarters and head. The day having clouded up for rain, resolved to halt +here for the night. In the course of the afternoon Lawrence Cahill came +up; but William Hall, who had gone into a ruined hut near the road, and +who did not appear to be very sick, did not arrive. Suspected that he +might be killed by the wolves in the hut during the night. At sun-set +had all the asses properly tied near the tents; and watched myself with +the sentries all night, as the wolves kept constantly howling round us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Departure from Koolihori--Ganifarra--Scarcity of provisions--Distressing +situation of the Author from deaths and sickness of the party--Escapes +from three lions--Intricate route to Koomikoomi--Dombila--Visit from +Karfa Taura--View of the Niger--Reduced state of the party--Bambakoo-- +Losses from wolves--Bosradoo; embark on the Niger; incidents in the +voyage to Marraboo--Isaaco sent to Sego with presents for Mansong-- +Message from Mansong--Course to Koolikorro--Deena--Yamina--Samee-- +Return of Isaaco; account of his interview with Mansong--Messengers +sent by Mansong, and enquiries respecting the Author's journey--Quit +Samee--Excessive heat--Reach Sansanding--Account of that city and its +trade--Death of Mr. Anderson--Preparations for continuing the voyage +eastward--Information collected respecting various districts. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +August 6th.--Having hired two more ass drivers at one bar and their +victuals per day, we left Koolihori early in the morning, and travelled +with considerable dispatch till three o'clock; at which time we reached +Ganifarra, a small beggarly village. In the course of this march _L. +Cakill_ and _J. Bird_, two of the soldiers, and _William Cox_, one of +the seamen, fell behind, and laid down. As soon as the front of the +coffle had reached Ganifarra, it came on a very heavy rain. Being in the +rear I was completely drenched; and two of the asses carrying four +trunks, in which were the gun stocks, pistols, looking glasses, &c. fell +down in a stream of water near the town, and all the contents were +completely wet. I could purchase nothing here, not so much as a fowl. +Served out a short allowance of rice, being very short of that article. + +August 7th.--During the night, some person had stolen one of our best +asses; and as the load must be left if we could not recover it, Isaaco's +people having traced the foot marks to a considerable distance, agreed +to go in search of it. Isaaco gave them the strictest orders, if they +came up to the thief in the woods to shoot him; and, if not, to follow +him to a town and demand the ass from the Dooty; if he refused to give +it up, to return as soon as possible. + +Spent the day in drying such things as were wet; cleaned and greased +with Shea butter all the ornamented pistols, _ten pair_. Dried the +looking glasses, which were quite spoiled. In the afternoon sent two of +the natives away with goods to a neighbouring town to purchase rice and +corn. At sun-set _Bird_ came up, but had seen nothing of _Cox_ nor +_Cahill_. + +August 8th.--People not yet returned. Opened the trunk which contained +the double barrelled gun stocks; cleaned and greased them. About noon +people returned with the rice and corn, but not quite sufficient for one +day. Nearly at the same time Isaaco's people came up with the ass; they +had traced his foot-marks past Koolihori, and found him at Balandoo. Did +not see the thief, but learned his name; which Isaaco promised to write +to his friend at Bangassi, to inform Serinummo of him. In the afternoon +agreed with the Dooty for thirty five bars to carry every thing over. +Rained heavily all the evening. + +August 9th.--Michael May, a soldier, having died during the night, +buried him at day break. Had all the loads taken to the crossing place +by eight o'clock. The Ba Woolli is nearly of the same size as the one we +formerly crossed of that name; it appeared to be exceedingly deep, and +flowed at the rate of four or five miles per hour. There is a very good +canoe here, which can carry over four ass loads at once. As it +threatened rain, sent over three men with one of the tents, and pitched +it on the East side about half a mile from the river; the ground near +the bank being marshy. Hired people to carry down the bundles, and put +them into the canoe; and others to receive them on the other side, and +carry them up the bank; so that the soldiers had nothing to move, being +all weak and sickly. + +By one o'clock all the baggage was over; but we found some difficulty in +transporting the asses; the rapidity of the stream swept the canoe and +the first six past the landing place; and they went so far down the +river, that I really thought the asses must be drowned; which would have +been an irreparable loss in our situation. However, by the exertions of +the Negroes, who swam in with ropes to the canoe, the asses were landed +on the other side; where they stood by the water's edge until the +Negroes with their corn hoes made a path for them up the steep bank. To +prevent such an accident, we took the ropes from several of our loads, +and fastened them together, so as to reach across the river; with this +we hauled over the loaded canoe, and the Negroes paddled it back when +empty. In this manner all the asses and horses were swam over without +any loss. + +When the bundles were all carried up to the tent, we found that we had +not more rice than was barely sufficient for the present day; and as no +more could be purchased, we had no alternative, but to march early in +the morning for Bambarra; the distance by all accounts would not exceed +fourteen or fifteen miles. + +August 10th.--William Ashton declared that he was unable to travel; but +as there was no place to leave him at, I advised him to make an exertion +and come on, though slowly, till he should reach a place where he could +have food. At eight o'clock set forwards; and travelled very +expeditiously without halting till four in the afternoon, at which time +the front of the coffle reached _Dababoo_, a village of Bambarra. Being +in the rear, I found many of the men very much fatigued with the length +of the journey and the heat of the day. At half past four I arrived with +the ass I drove at a stream flowing to the Westwards. + +Here I found many of the soldiers sitting, and Mr. Anderson lying under +a bush, apparently dying. Took him on my back, and carried him across +the stream, which came up to my middle. Carried over the load of the ass +which I drove, got over the ass, Mr. Anderson's horse, &c. Found myself +much fatigued, having crossed the stream sixteen times. Left here four +soldiers with their asses, being unable to carry over their loads. +Having loaded my ass and put Mr. Anderson on his horse, we went on to +the village; but was sorry to find that no rice could be had, and I was +only able to buy one solitary fowl. + +August 11th.--Bought a small bullock of the Moorish breed for one +barraloolo; and having purchased some corn, had it cleaned and dressed +for the people instead of rice. This morning hired Isaaco's people to go +back, and bring up the loads of the soldiers who had halted by the side +of the stream. In the course of the day all the loads arrived; but was +sorry to find that in the course of the last two marches we had lost +_four men_, viz. _Cox_, _Cahill_, _Bird_, and _Ashton_. Mr. Anderson +still in a very dangerous way, being unable to walk or sit upright. Mr. +Scott much recovered. I found that I must here leave one load, one of +the horses being quite finished. Left the _seine nets_ in charge of the +Dooty, till I should send for them. + +August 12th.--Rained all the morning. About eleven o'clock, the sky +being clear, loaded the asses. None of the Europeans being able to lift +a load, Isaaco made the Negroes load the whole. Saddled Mr. Anderson's +horse; and having put a sick soldier on mine, took Mr. Anderson's horse +by the bridle, that he might have no trouble but sitting upright on the +saddle. We had not gone far before I found one of the asses with a load +of gunpowder, the driver (Dickinson) being unable to proceed (I never +heard of him afterwards); and shortly after the sick man dismounted from +my horse, and laid down by a small pool of water, refusing to rise. +Drove the ass and horse on before me. Passed a number of sick. At half +past twelve o'clock Mr. Anderson declared he could ride no farther. Took +him down and laid him in the shade of a bush, and sat down beside him. +At half past two o'clock he made another attempt to proceed; but had not +rode above an hundred yards before I had to take him down from the +saddle, and lay him again in the shade. I now gave up all thoughts of +being able to carry him forwards till the cool of the evening; and +having turned the horses and ass to feed, I sat down to watch the +pulsations of my dying friend. At four o'clock four of the sick came up; +three of them agreed to take charge of the ass with the gunpowder; and I +put a fourth, who had a sore leg, on my horse, telling him if he saw Mr. +Scott on the road to give him the horse. + +At half past five o'clock, there being a fine breeze from the South +West; Mr. Anderson agreed to make another attempt, and having again +placed him on the saddle, I led the horse on pretty smartly in hopes of +reaching Koomikoomi before dark. We had not proceeded above a mile, +before we heard on our left a noise very much like the barking of a +large mastiff, but ending in a hiss like the fuf [Footnote: Thus is Mr. +Park's MS] of a cat. I thought it must be some large monkey; and was +observing to Mr. Anderson "what a bouncing fellow that must be," when we +heard another bark nearer to us, and presently a third still nearer, +accompanied with a growl. I now suspected that some wild animal meant to +attack us, but could not conjecture of what species it was likely to be. +We had not proceeded an hundred yards farther, when coming to an opening +in the bushes, I was not a little surprised to see three lions coming +towards us. They were not so red as the lion I formerly saw in +Barnbarra, [Footnote: Park's Travels, p. 208] but of a dusky colour, +like the colour of an ass. They were very large, and came bounding over +the long grass, not one after another, but all abreast of each other. I +was afraid, if I allowed them to come too near us, and my piece should +miss fire, that we should be all devoured by them. I therefore let go +the bridle, and walked forwards to meet them. As soon as they were +within a long shot of me, I fired at the centre one. I do not think I +hit him; but they all stopt, looked at each other, and then bounded away +a few paces, when one of them stopt, and looked back at me. I was too +busy in loading my piece to observe their motions as they went away, and +was very happy to see the last of them march slowly off amongst the +bushes. We had not proceeded above half a mile farther, when we heard +another bark and growl close to us amongst the bushes. This was +doubtless one of the lions before seen, and I was afraid they would +follow us till dark, when they would have too many opportunities of +springing on us unawares. I therefore got Mr. Anderson's call, and made +as loud a whistling and noise as possible. We heard no more of them. + +Just at dark we descended into a valley where was a small stream of +water; but the ascent on the opposite side was through a species of +broken ground, which I have never seen any where but in Africa. It is of +the following nature. A stratum of stiff yellow clay fourteen or twenty +feet thick, (which, unless when it rains, is as hard as rock) is washed +by the annual rains into fissures of a depth equal to the thickness of +the stratum. There is no vegetation on these places, except on the +summit or original level. Amongst these horrid gullies I unfortunately +lost sight of the footmarks of the asses which had gone before; and +finding no way to get out, led the horse up a very steep place in order +to gain the original level, hoping there to find the foot path. But +unluckily the ground was all broken as far as I could see; and after +travelling some little way, we came to a gulley which we could not +cross; and finding no possibility of moving without the danger of being +killed by falling into some of these ravines, or over some precipice, I +thought it advisable to halt till the morning. On this rugged summit we +fell in with Jonas Watkins, one of the sick; and with his assistance I +lighted a fire. Wrapped Mr. Anderson in his cloak, and laid him down +beside it. Watched all night to keep the fire burning, and prevent our +being surprised by the lions, which we knew were at no great distance. +About two o'clock in the morning two more of the sick joined us. Mr. +Anderson slept well during the night, and as soon as day dawned, + +August 13th,--having found the footmarks of the asses, and having with +difficulty even in day light traced our way through this labyrinth, we +found Mr. Scott and three more of the sick. They too had lost their way, +and had slept about half a mile to the East of us. We reached Koomikoomi +at ten o'clock. This is an unwalled village, but surrounded with +extensive corn fields. + +August 13th.--Halted; rested at Koomikoomi + +August 14th.--Jonas Watkins died this morning; buried him. Halted here +to day to see which way Mr. Anderson's fever was likely to terminate; +and in the mean time sent two loaded asses forward to Doombila, the +asses to return in the evening and carry loads to-morrow morning. + + ° ' " +Obser. Mer. Alt. ---- ---- 177 7 0 + 0 32 0 + ------------ + 177 39 0 + ------------ + 88 49 0-1/2 + ------------- + Z D. ---- 1 11 0 + D. 14 8 0 + ------------- + Latitude ---- 12 57 0 [*] + ------------- + +[Footnote *: Mr. Park took a wrong day's declination, i.e. the 15th +instead of the 14th. It should be, + + ° ' " + ZD. ---- ---- 1 11 0 + Dec. ---- ---- 14 27 29 + --------------- + Latitude ---- ---- 13 16 29 + --------------- +] + +It is a common observation of the Negroes, that when the Indian corn is +in blossom the rain stops for eleven days. The stopping of the rain +evidently depends on the sun approaching the zenith of the place; the +sun by this day's observation being only seventy-one miles North of us: +and it is a wonderful institution of providence, that at this time the +maize here is all in full blossom; and on passing through the fields, +one is like to be blinded with the pollen of the male flowers. + +August 15th.--Having slung a cloak like a hammock under a straight +stick, had Mr. Anderson put into it, and carried on two men's heads: two +more following to relieve them. Mr. Scott complained this morning of +sickness and head ach. Made one of the soldiers saddle Mr. Anderson's +horse for him; and having seen him mount, and given him his canteen with +water, I rode forwards to look after four Negroes whom I had hired to +carry loads on their heads; but being strangers, I was apprehensive they +might run away with them. Found every thing going on well; and we +travelled with such expedition, that we reached Doombila in four hours +and a half, though the distance cannot be less than sixteen or eighteen +miles, nearly South. It rained hard all the afternoon, and it was not +till dark that all the sick soldiers came up. Only three of the soldiers +were able to drive their asses to day. + +When I entered the town I was happy to meet _Karfa Taura_, [Footnote: +Park's Travels, p. 253.] the worthy Negro mentioned in my former +travels; he heard a report at _Boori_ (where he now resides) that a +coffle of white people were passing through Fooladoo for Bambarra; and +that they were conducted by a person of the name of Park, who spoke +Mandingo. He heard this report in the evening; and in the morning he +left his house, determined if possible to meet me at Bambakoo, a +distance of six days travel. He came to Bambakoo with three of his +slaves to assist me in going forward to Sego, but when he found I had +not come up, he came forwards to meet me. He instantly recognised me, +and you may judge of the pleasure I felt on seeing my old benefactor. + +At four o'clock, as Mr. Scott had not come up, and the people in the +rear had not seen him lately, I sent one of Isaaco's people back on my +horse as far as the next village, suspecting that he might have halted +there when the rain came on. The man returned after dark, having been +nearly at Koomikoomi without seeing or hearing any thing of Mr. Scott. +We all concluded that he had returned to Koomikoomi. + +August 17th--Halted at Doombila in order to dry the baggage, and in +hopes of Mr. Scott coming up. Told the four Negroes, who carried Mr. +Anderson, and who returned to Koomikoomi this morning, to make every +possible enquiry concerning Mr. Scott; and if he was able to ride, I +would pay them handsomely for coming with him. If he had returned to +Koomikoomi, I desired them to assure the Dooty that I would pay for +every expence he might incur, and pay for a guide to conduct him to +Marraboo. Received from the Dooty of Doombila a small bullock and a +sheep. Paid him a barraloolo, five bars of amber, and fifty gun flints. + +August 18th.--Hearing no account of Mr. Scott, concluded he was still at +Koomikoomi, but unable to travel. At seven o'clock left Doombila, and as +the asses were now very weak, it was not long before I had to dismount +and put a load on my horse. Only one of the soldiers able to drive an +ass. Road very bad; did not reach _Toniba_ till sun set, being a +distance of eighteen or twenty miles S.E. by S. Mr. Anderson's bearers +halted with him at a village on the road, where there was some good +beer. As soon as we had pitched the tent, it began to rain, and rained +all night; the soldiers run all into the village. I passed a very +disagreeable night, having to keep our asses from eating the people's +corn, which caused me to keep walking about almost the whole night. + +In case it should escape my memory, I take this opportunity of +observing, that the standard law of Africa runs thus: If an ass should +break a single stem of corn, the proprietor of the corn has a right to +seize the ass; and if the owner of the ass will not satisfy him for the +damage he thinks he has sustained, he can _retain_ the ass. He cannot +_sell_ or _work_ him, but he can _kill_ him; and as the Bambarrans +esteem ass-flesh as a great luxury, this part of the law is often put in +force. + +August 19th.--Mr. Anderson's bearers having brought him forward early in +the morning, we immediately loaded the asses, and departed from Toniba +(Sergeant McKeal appears to be slightly delirious). We kept ascending +the mountains to the South of Toniba till three o'clock, at which time +having gained the summit of the ridge which separates the Niger from the +remote branches of the Senegal, I went on a little before; and coming to +the brow of the hill, I _once more saw the Niger_ rolling its immense +stream along the plain! + +After the fatiguing march which we had experienced, the sight of this +river was no doubt pleasant, as it promised an end to, or to be at least +an alleviation of our toils. But when I reflected that three-fourths of +the soldiers had died on their march, and that in addition to our weakly +state we had no carpenters to build the boats, in which we proposed to +prosecute our discoveries; the prospect appeared somewhat gloomy. It +however afforded me peculiar pleasure, when I reflected that in +conducting a party of _Europeans_, with immense baggage, through an +extent of more than five hundred miles, I had always been able to +preserve the most friendly terms with the natives. In fact, this journey +plainly demonstrates, 1st. that with common prudence any quantity of +merchandize may be transported from the Gambia to the Niger, without +danger of being robbed by the natives: 2dly, that if this journey be +performed in the dry season, one may calculate on losing not more than +three or at most four men out of fifty. + +But to return to the Niger. The river was much swelled by the rains, but +did not appear to overflow its banks. It certainly is larger even here +than either the Senegal or the Gambia. We descended with difficulty down +the steep side of the hill towards Bambakoo, which place we reached at +half past six o'clock, and pitched our tents under a tree near the town. +Of thirty-four soldiers and four carpenters, who left the Gambia, only +six soldiers and one carpenter reached the Niger. + +During the night the wolves carried away two large cloth bundles from +the tent door to a considerable distance; where they eat off the skins +with which they were covered, and left them. + +August 20th--Received a bullock from the Dooty as a present. It was in +the afternoon, and we fastened it to the tree close to the tent, where +all the asses were tied. As soon as it was dark the wolves tore its +bowels out, though within ten yards of the tent door where we were all +sitting. The wolves here are the largest and most ferocious we have yet +seen. + +August 21st.--Dried a bundle of beads, the strings of which were all +rotten with the rain. Opened a leather bag which contained about thirty +pounds of gunpowder for present use. Found it all wet and damaged. +Spread it out in the sun; resolved to make something of it. Spoke for a +canoe to carry down the baggage to Marraboo, the river being navigable +over the rapids at this season. In the course of our march from Toniba +to Bambakoo, we lost Sergeant _McKeil_, _Purvey_, and _Samuel Hill_. + +August 22nd.--Early in the morning had all the bundles put on the asses, +and carried to the place of embarkation, which is a village called +Bossradoo, about a mile and a half East of Bambakoo. It rained hard all +the forenoon. The canoes could not carry any of the soldiers, or any +person except two to look after the goods. I resolved to go down with +Mr. Anderson, leaving Mr. Martyn to come down with the men by land. They +rode on the asses. + +We embarked at ten minutes past three o'clock. The current, which is +nearly five knots per hour, set us along without the trouble of rowing +any more than was necessary to keep the canoe in the proper course. The +river is full an English mile over, and at the rapids it is spread out +to nearly twice that breadth. The rapids seem to be formed by the river +passing through a ridge of hills in a South Easterly direction: they are +very numerous, and correspond with the jetting angles of the hills. +There are _three_ principal ones, where the water breaks with +considerable noise in the middle of the river; but the canoe men easily +avoided them by paddling down one of the branches near the shore. Even +in this manner the velocity was such as to make me sigh. + +We passed two of the principal rapids, and three smaller ones, in the +course of the afternoon. We saw on one of the islands, in the middle of +the river, a large elephant; it was of a red clay colour with black +legs. I was very unwell of the dysentery; otherwise I would have had a +shot at him, for he was quite near us. We saw three hippopotami close to +another of these islands. The canoe men were afraid they might follow us +and overset the canoes. The report of a musket will in all cases +frighten them away. They blow up the water exactly like a whale. As we +were gliding along shore, one of the canoe men speared a fine turtle, of +the same species as the one I formerly saw, and made a drawing of in +Gambia. At sun set we rowed to the shore, landed on some flat rocks, and +set about cooking the turtle and rice for our supper; but before this +aldermanic repast was half dressed, the rain came on us, and continued +with great violence all night. + +August 23d.--At day break embarked again, very wet and sleepy. Passed +the third rapid, and arrived at Marraboo at nine o'clock. Our guide soon +found a large passage hut in which to deposit our baggage, for one stone +of small amber per load. We carried the whole of it up in a few minutes. +In the evening Mr. Martyn arrived, and all the people, except two, who +came up next day. + +August 24th.--Received from the Dooty a small black bullock in a +present, which our guide would not allow us to kill, it being of a jet +black colour. The Dooty's name is Sokee; and so superstitious was he, +that all the time we remained at Marraboo he kept himself in his hut, +conceiving that if he saw a white man, he would never prosper after. + +August 25th--Paid Isaaco goods to the full value of two prime slaves, +according to agreement. I likewise gave him several articles; and I told +him, that when the palaver was adjusted at Sego, he should then have all +the asses and horses for his trouble. + +August 26th.--Took out such things as I meant to give to Mansong, viz. + +A handsome silver plated tureen. +*Two double barrelled guns, silver mounted. +Two pair of pistols mounted in the same manner. +A sabre with Morocco scabbard. +Thirty-two yards scarlet broad cloth. +Twelve ditto blue. +Twelve ditto yellow. +Twelve ditto light green. +*Half a load of gunpowder, or two kegs and a half. + + To Mansong's eldest son Da. + +*A double barrelled gun, silver mounted. +A pair of pistols, ditto. +A sabre, ditto. + +I wished to put a stop to the malicious reports of the Moors and +Mahomedans at Sego as soon as possible. I therefore resolved to send +Isaaco forward to Sego with all the articles beforementioned, except +those marked thus [Symbol: *], which I desired him to say to Modibinne +would be given as soon as I heard accounts that Mansong would befriend +us. This Modibinne is Mansong's prime minister; he is a Mahomedan, but +not intolerant in his principles. Isaaco accordingly departed on the +28th with his wife and all his goods. Ever since my arrival at Marraboo +I had been subject to attacks of the dysentery; and as I found that my +strength was failing very fast, I resolved to charge myself with +mercury. I accordingly took calomel till it affected my mouth to such a +degree, that I could not speak or sleep for six days. The salivation put +an immediate stop to the dysentery, which had proved fatal to so many of +the soldiers. On the 2d of September, I observed the + + ° ' " +Mer. alt. of the Sun-- 169 54 0 + --------- + 84 57 0 + 0 16 0 + --------- + 85 13 0 + --------- + 4 47 0 + 8 1 0 + --------- +Marraboo Latitude-- 12 48 0 + +As soon as I recovered, I set about exchanging some amber and coral for +cowries, which are the current money of Bambarra. + + Cowries. +Coral No. 4 each stone 60 +Amber No. 5 60 +Blue agates per string 100 + +With these three articles I bought about twenty thousand cowries. It is +curious that in counting the cowries, they call eighty a hundred; whilst +in all other things they calculate by the common hundred. Sixty is +called a Manding hundred. + +On the 6th Thomas Dyer (a private) died of the fever. I had to pay one +thousand shells to Dooty Sokee, before he would allow me to bury him; +alleging that if the ground was not bought where he was buried, it would +never grow good corn after. + +There is no wood proper for boat building in this neighbourhood; the +best wood is near Kankaree, on a large navigable branch of the Niger; +and almost all the Bambarra canoes come from thence; many of them are +mahogany. + +The travellers from Sego brought us every day some unfavourable news or +other. At one time it was reported, and believed all over Marraboo, that +Mansong had killed Isaaco with his own hand, and would do the same with +all the whites who should come into Bambarra. Our fears were at length +dispelled by the arrival of Bookari, Mansong's singing man, on the 8th, +with six canoes. He told us he came by Mansong's orders to convey us and +our baggage to Sego. That Mansong thought highly of the presents which +Isaaco had brought, and wished us to be brought to Sego before he +received them from Isaaco. We accordingly put our baggage in order; but +it was not till the 12th that the singing man and his _Somonies_ (canoe +people) could be prevailed on to leave the Dooty _Sokee's_ good beef, +and beer. We embarked, and left Marraboo at ten minutes past three +o'clock. + +Time. Course. Objects. Bearing. Distance. + +3.10 E. 1/2 N. The North extreme E. + of the South hills. + Little hump on E.S.E. + South hills. + Cubic hill on North E. by N. Distant 12 + side. or 14 miles. + +0 25 E. by N. +0 30 E. N. E. +0 45 E. 1/2 S. +4 0 E. +0 45 E. by N. 1/2 W. +5 0 N. E. Cubic hill. N. Distant 1/4 of +0 10 Halted for the a mile. + night at Koolikorro + +September 13th.--Bookari sent four of the Somonies over to a town on the +opposite side of the river, to put in requisition a canoe for carrying +part of our baggage. The people refused to give the canoe, and sent the +Somonies back without it. Bookari immediately went with all the Somonies +(38); and having cut the owner of the canoe across the forehead with his +sword, and broke his brother's head with a canoe paddle, he seized one +of his sons, and brought him away as a slave along with the canoe. He +however set the boy at liberty, his father paying two thousand shells +for his release. + +We left Koolikorro at thirty-five minutes past eleven. I will not +trouble your Lordship with transcribing the courses and compass bearings +from this to Sansanding. The latitude of the places will give a +sufficient idea of the course of the river; and I hope to give a +tolerable correct chart of all its turnings and widings, when I return +to Great Britain. + + ° ' " +Observed mer. alt. Sun.-- 80 45 0 + 0 16 0 + -------- + 81 1 0 + -------- + ZD.-- 8 59 0 N + D.-- 3 53 0 + -------- +Koolikorro Latitude-- 12 52 0 N + -------- + +_The horizon_ was an oblique view across the river. Distance of the land +seven miles; height of the eye sixteen inches above the surface of the +water. + +We travelled very pleasantly all day; in fact nothing can be more +beautiful than the views of this immense river; sometimes as smooth as a +mirror, at other times ruffled with a gentle breeze, but at all times +sweeping us along at the rate of six or seven miles per hour. We halted +for the night at Deena, a Somoni village on the south side. Had a +tornado in the night, which wetted our baggage much. Most of us slept in +the canoes to prevent theft. + +September 14th.--Departed from Deena early in the morning, and arrived +at Yamina at forty-five minutes past four o'clock. Halted here the 15th, +in order to purchase cowries. + + ° ' " +Observ. alt. Sun-- 79 63 0 + 0 16 0 + ------- + 79 52 0 + ------- + 10 8 0 + 3 7 0 + ------- +Yamina Latitude-- 13 15 0 + +On the 16th left Yamina, and in the evening reached Samee, where we +landed our baggage; and Bookari went forward to Sego to inform Mansong +of our arrival. + +September 17th.-- + ° ' " +Obser. mer. alt. Sun-- 78 47 0 + 0 16 0 + ------- + 79 3 0 + ------- + 10 57 0 + 2 20 0 + ------- +Samee Latitude-- 13 17 0 + ------- + +September 18th.--No accounts from Sego. + +September 19th.--About two o'clock in the morning, Isaaco arrived in a +canoe from Sego, with all the articles I had sent to Mansong. Mansong +had never yet seen any of them; and when he heard that I was arrived at +Samee, he desired Modibinne to inform Isaaco that he had best take the +articles up to Samee; and he would send a person to receive them from my +own hand. Isaaco informed me that Mansong, at all the interviews he had +with him, uniformly declared that he would allow us to pass; but +whenever Isaaco mentioned us particularly, or related any incident that +had happened on the journey, Mansong immediately began to make squares +and triangles in the sand before him with his finger, and continued to +do so, so long as Isaaco spoke about us. Isaaco said, that he thought +Mansong was rather afraid of us; particularly as he never once expressed +a wish to see us, but rather the contrary. + +September 22d.--In the evening, Modibinne and four more of Mansong's +friends arrived in a canoe. They sent for me, and Modibinne told me, +that they were come by Mansong's orders to hear, from my own mouth, what +had brought me into Bambarra. He said I might think on it during the +night, and they would visit me in the morning; he said Mansong had sent +me a bullock, which he shewed me: it was very fat, and _milk white_. + +September 23d.--As soon as we had breakfasted, Modibinne and the four +grandees came to visit us. When they had seated themselves, and the +usual compliments passed, Modibinne desired me to acquaint them with the +motives which had induced me to come into their country. I spoke to them +in the Bambarra language as follows. "I am the white man who nine years +ago came into Bambarra. I then came to Sego, and requested Mansong's +permission to pass to the Eastwards; he not only permitted me to pass, +but presented me with five thousand cowries to purchase provisions on +the road; [Footnote: Park's Travels, p. 199.] for you all know that the +Moors had robbed me of my goods. This generous conduct of Mansong +towards me, has made his name much respected in the land of the white +people. The King of that country has sent me again into Bambarra; and if +Mansong is inclined to protect me, and you who are here sitting, wish to +befriend me, I will inform you of the real object of my coming into your +country." + +(Here Modibinne desired me to speak on, as they were all my friends), +"You all know that the white people are a trading people; and that all +the articles of value, which the Moors and the people of Jinnie bring to +Sego, are made by us. If you speak of a _good gun_, who made it? the +_white people_. If you speak of a good pistol or sword, or piece of +scarlet or baft, or beads or gunpowder, who made them? the _white +people_. We sell them to the Moors; the Moors bring them to Tombuctoo, +where they sell them at a _higher rate_. The people of Tombuctoo sell +them to the people of Jinnie at a still higher price; and the people of +Jinnie sell them to you. Now the King of the white people wishes to find +out a way by which we may bring our own merchandize to you, and sell +every thing at a much cheaper rate than you now have them. For this +purpose, if Mansong will permit me to pass, I propose sailing down the +Joliba to the place where it mixes with the salt water; and if I find no +rocks or danger in the way, the white men's small vessels will come up +and trade at Sego, if Mansong wishes it. What I have now spoken, I hope +and trust you will not mention to any person, except Mansong and his +son; for if the Moors should hear of it, I shall certainly be murdered +before I reach the salt water." + +Modibinne answered, "We have heard what you have spoken. Your journey is +a good one, and may God prosper you in it; Mansong will protect you. We +will carry your words to Mansong this afternoon; and tomorrow we will +bring you his answer." I made Isaaco shew them the different things, +which I had allotted for Mansong and his son. They were delighted with +the tureen, the double-barrelled guns, and in fact every thing was far +superior to any thing of the kind they had ever before seen. + +When I had laid out every thing for Mansong and his son, I then made +each of the grandees, and Modibinne, a present of scarlet cloth. +Modibinne now said that they had seen what I laid out for Mansong and +his son, and that the present was great, and worthy of Mansong; but, +added he, Mansong has heard so many reports concerning your baggage, +that he wishes us to examine it. "Such of the bundles as are covered +with skin, we will not open; you will tell us what is in them, and that +will be sufficient." I told them that I had nothing but what was +necessary for purchasing provisions; and that it would please me much if +they could dispense with opening the bundles. They however persisted; +and I ordered the bundles to be brought out, taking care, with the +assistance of the soldiers, to secrete all the good amber and coral. + +When all the loads were inspected, I asked Modibinne what he thought of +my baggage? If he had seen any more silver tureens, or double barrelled +guns? He said he had seen nothing that was _bad_, and nothing but what +was necessary for purchasing provisions; that he would report the same +to Mansong. They accordingly went away to Sego; but without taking +Mansong's present, till they had heard his answer. + +September 24th.--_Seed_ and _Barber_ (soldiers) died during the night; +one of the fever, the other of the dysentery. Paid the Somonies twenty +stones of amber for burying them. + +September 25th.--Modibinne and the same people returned with Mansong's +answer, a literal translation of which I give as follows. "Mansong says +he will protect you; that a road is open for you every where, as far as +his hand (power) extends. If you wish to go to the East, no man shall +harm you from Sego till you pass Tombuctoo. If you wish to go to the +West, you may travel through Fooladoo and Manding, through Kasson and +Bondou; the name of Mansong's stranger will be a sufficient protection +for you. If you wish to build your boats at Samee or Sego, at Sansanding +or Jinnie, name the town, and Mansong will convey you thither." He +concluded by observing, that Mansong wished me to sell him four of the +_blunderbusses_, _three swords_, _a fiddle_ (violin) which belonged to +Mr. Scott, and some _Birmingham bead necklaces_, which pleased above +every thing; that he had sent us a bullock, and his son another, with a +fine sheep. I told Modibinne that Mansong's friendship was of more value +to me than the articles he had mentioned, and that I would be happy if +Mansong would accept them from me as a farther proof of my esteem. + +I made choice of Sansanding for fitting out our canoe, because Mansong +had never said he wished to see me, and because I could live quieter and +freer from begging than at Sego. I therefore sent down the bullocks by +land to Sansanding. + +September 26th. We departed from Samee. The canoes were not covered with +mats; and there being no wind, the sun became insufferably hot. I felt +myself affected with a violent head-ach, which encreased to such a +degree as to make me almost delirious. I never felt so hot a day; there +was _sensible heat_ sufficient to have roasted a _sirloin_; but the +thermometer was in a bundle in the other canoe, so that I could not +ascertain the _actual_ heat. We passed down a small stream to the north +of Sego Korro, and halted opposite to _Segosee Korro_, near the sand +hills, where I formerly waited for a passage. We waited here about an +hour for Isaaco, who had gone to Segosee Korro to inform Mansong of our +passing. When Isaaco returned, he made a sort of shade over our canoe +with four sticks and a couple of cloaks; and in the evening I found +myself more collected and less feverish. At sun-set we rowed towards the +north bank, where there are some flat rocks, on which passengers by +water often sleep. We found the place occupied by a number of people. I +counted between thirty and forty fires; we therefore passed on a little +to the Eastwards, and slept on a sand bank covered with verdure. + +September 27th.--At day-break we again proceeded, and in stretching over +to gain the middle of the river, we passed a Somoni fishing village on +an island; the huts occupied the whole of the dry ground, and it +appeared, even when close to it, like a floating village. We reached +Sansanding at ten o'clock. Such crowds of people came to the shore to +see us, that we could not land our baggage till the people were beaten +away with sticks, by Koontie Mamadie's orders, on whose premises we were +accommodated with a large hut for sitting in, having another hut opening +into it, in which we deposited our baggage. + +October 2d.--_Marshall_ and _W. Garland_ (privates) died; one of the +fever, the other of the dysentery. During the night the wolves carried +away Garland, the door of the hut where he died being left open. Buried +Marshall on the morning following, in a corn field near the church. + +October 4th.--Mansong sent down two broken gunlocks, and a large pewter +plate with a hole in the bottom of it, for me to repair; and it was with +much difficulty that I could persuade the messenger that none of us knew +any thing about such occupations. + +October 6th.--_Da_, Mansong's eldest son, sent one canoe as a present, +and requested me to sell him a bunderbuss, and three swords, with some +blue and yellow broad cloth. Sent him three swords, and ten spans of +yellow cloth; received in return six thousand cowries. + +Sansanding contains, according to Koontie Mamadie's account, eleven +thousand inhabitants. It has no public buildings, except the mosques, +two of which, though built of mud, are by no means inelegant. The market +place is a large square, and the different articles of merchandize are +exposed for sale on stalls covered with mats, to shade them from the +sun. The market is crowded with people from morning to night: some of +the stalls contain nothing but beads; others indigo in balls; others +wood-ashes in balls; others Houssa and Jinnie cloth. I observed one +stall with nothing but antimony in small bits; another with sulphur, and +a third with copper and silver rings and bracelets. In the houses +fronting the square is sold, scarlet, amber, silks from Morocco, and +tobacco, which looks like Levant tobacco, and comes by way of Tombuctoo. +Adjoining this is the salt market, part of which occupies one corner of +the square. A slab of salt is sold commonly for eight thousand cowries; +a large butcher's stall, or shade, is in the centre of the square, and +as good and fat meat sold every day as any in England. The beer market +is at a little distance, under two large trees; and there are often +exposed for sale from eighty to one hundred calabashes of beer, each +containing about two gallons. Near the beer market is the place where +red and yellow leather is sold. + +Besides these market-places, there is a very large space, which is +appropriated for the great market every Tuesday. On this day astonishing +crowds of people come from the country to purchase articles in +wholesale, and retail them in the different villages, &c. There are +commonly from sixteen to twenty large fat Moorish bullocks killed on the +market morning. + +October 8th.--As Mansong had delayed much longer in sending the canoes +he promised, than I expected, I thought it best to be provided with a +sufficient quantity of shells to purchase two; particularly when I +reflected that the river would subside in the course of a few days, +having sunk this morning about four inches by the shore. I therefore +opened shop in great style, and exhibited a choice assortment of +European articles to be sold in wholesale or retail. I had of course a +_great run_, which I suppose drew on me the envy of my brother +merchants; for the Jinnie people, the Moors, and the merchants here +joined with those of the same description at Sego, and (in presence of +Modibinne, from whose mouth I had it) offered to give Mansong a quantity +of merchandize of greater value than all the presents I had made him, if +he would seize our baggage, and either kill us, or send us back again +out of Bambarra. They alleged, that my object was to kill Mansong and +his sons by means of charms, that the white people might come and seize +on the country. Mansong, much to his honour, rejected the proposal, +though it was seconded by two-thirds of the people of Sego, and almost +all Sansanding. + +From the 8th to the 16th nothing of consequence occurred, I found my +shop every day more and more crowded with customers; and such was my run +of business, that I was sometimes forced to employ _three tellers at +once_ to count my cash. I turned one market day twenty-five thousand +seven hundred and fifty-six pieces of money (cowries.) + +The second day after my arrival at Marraboo, as no accounts whatever had +arrived concerning Mr. Scott, I sent a messenger to Koomikoomi, desiring +him to bring Mr. Scott, or some account of him. He returned in four +days, and told us that _Mr. Scott was dead_, and that the natives had +stolen the pistols out of the holsters; but he had brought the horse to +Bambakoo. + +When Modibinne enquired of Isaaco what sort of a _return of presents_ +would be most agreeable to me, Isaaco (being instructed before) said he +believed two large canoes, and Modibinne assured me, that the canoes +would be sent down to Sansanding immediately on our arrival there. + +In order to give a just idea of the trade and profits on different +articles sold at Sansanding, I have annexed a list of _European_ and +_African_ articles, with their respective values in _cowries_, the great +medium of exchange and the general currency of Bambarra. + +EUROPEAN ARTICLES. + + Value in Cowries. + +A musket ---- ---- ---- 6 to 7000 + +A cutlass ---- ---- ---- 1500 to 2000 + +A flint ---- ---- ---- ---- 40 + +Gunpowder, one bottle ---- ---- 3000 + +Amber No. 1. ---- ---- ---- ---- 1000 + +Ditto No. 2. ---- ---- ---- ---- 800 + +Ditto No. 3. ---- ---- ---- ---- 400 + +Amber No. 4. ---- ---- ---- ---- 160 + +Ditto No. 5. ---- ---- ---- ---- 80 + +Ditto No. 6. ---- ---- ---- ---- 60 + +Coral No. 4. each stone ---- ---- 60 + +Black points, per bead ---- ---- 20 + +Red garnets, per string ---- ---- 40 + +White ditto, per string ---- ---- 40 + +Blue agates, per string ---- ---- 100 + +Round rock coral, per bead ---- 5 + +Long ditto, per bead ---- ---- 5 + +Short arrangoes, per bead ---- 40 + +Gold beads, per bead ---- ---- 10 + +An Indian baft ---- ---- 20,000 + +A barraloolo, or five-bar piece 8,000 + +Scarlet cloth 10 spans ---- 20,000 + +If sold to the Karankeas _in retail_ 30,000 + +_Light yellow_ cloth nearly the same as scarlet; + +_blue_ not so high + +Paper per sheet ---- ---- 40 + +A dollar ---- ---- from 6 to 12,000 + +Or from 1£. 5s. to 2£. 10s + +AFRICAN PRODUCE. + +A _minkalli_ of gold (12s. 6d. sterling) ---- 3000 + +Four minkallies are equal to £3. 3s. Value in Cowries. + +_Ivory_, the very largest teeth, each ---- 10,000 + +The medium size ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 7,000 + +The smaller ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 3 or 4000 + +_Indigo leaves_ beat and dried in lumps larger + +than ones fist, each ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 40 + +A prime slave, (male) ---- ---- ---- ---- 40,000 + +A ditto, (female) ---- ---- ---- from 80 to 100,000 + +A girl ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 40,000 + +A horse from two to ten prime male slaves + +A cow (fat) ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 15,000 + +An ass ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 17,000 + +A sheep ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 3 to 5,000 + +A fowl ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 250 to 300 + +As much _excellent fat beef_ as will be sufficient + + for seven men one day ---- ---- ---- ---- 620 + +As much _good beer_ as the same number can + + drink in one day ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 300 + +October 16th.--Modibinne and Jower arrived, and told me that they had +brought a canoe from Mansong. I went to see it, and objected to one half +of it, which was quite rotten. They sent up to Sego for another half; +but when it arrived, it would not fit the one already sent. I was +therefore forced to send Isaaco again to Sego; and as Mansong had +requested me by Modibinne to sell him any spare arms I might have, I +sent two blunderbusses, two fowling pieces, two pair of pistols, and +five unserviceable muskets; requesting in return that Mansong would +either send a proper canoe, or permit me to purchase one that I might +proceed on my journey. Isaaco returned on the 20th with a large canoe; +but half of it was very much decayed and patched, I therefore set about +joining the best half to the half formerly sent; and with the assistance +of Abraham Bolton (private) took out all the rotten pieces; and repaired +all the holes, and sewed places; and with eighteen days _hard labour, +changed the_ Bambarra canoe into _His Majesty's schooner Joliba_; the +length forty feet, breadth six feet; being flat bottomed, draws only one +foot water when loaded. + +October 28th.--At a quarter past five o'clock in the morning my dear +friend Mr. Alexander Anderson died after a sickness of four months. I +feel much inclined to speak of his merits; but as his worth was known +only to a few friends, I will rather cherish his memory in silence, and +imitate his cool and steady conduct, than weary my friends with a +panegyric in which they cannot be supposed to join. I shall only observe +that no event which took place during the journey, ever threw the +smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr. Anderson in the grave. I +then felt myself, as if left a second time lonely and friendless amidst +the wilds of Africa. + +November 14th.--The schooner is now nearly ready for our departure; I +only wait for Isaaco's return from Sego, that I may give him this paper +in charge. + +November 15th.--Isaaco returned; and told us that Mansong was anxious +that I should depart as soon as possible, before the Moors to the East +had intimation of my coming. Bought bullock hides to form an awning to +secure us from the spears and arrows of the _Surka_ or _Soorka_ and +_Mahinga_ who inhabit the North bank of the river betwixt Jinnie and +Tombuctoo. + +November 16.--All ready and we sail to-morrow morning, or evening. I +will therefore conclude this long epistle with some miscellaneous +information. + + _Variation_ of the compass. + +West of the Faleme river ---- ---- 14 11 West. + +At Badoo, near Sibikillin ---- ---- 14 56 + +Near the _Bafing_ ---- ---- ---- 16 30 + +At Marraboo on the Niger ---- ---- 16 36 + +At Yamina ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- 17 11 + +At Sansanding ---- ---- ---- ---- 17 40 + +In case any one should be inclined to doubt the accuracy of the +latitudes taken by the back observation with Troughton's pocket sextant; +I think it proper to mention that I have observed at Sansanding +alternately with the _horizon of the river_, and the _back observation_ +in water and the artificial horizon; and never found them to vary more +than four minutes, but generally much nearer. + +A fac-simile sketch of the course of the Niger, made by an old Somonie, +who had been seven times at Tombuctoo, and is now going the eighth. + +_Ba Nimma_ rises in the Kong mountains South of Marraboo; it passes one +day's journey South of Sego; and having received a branch from Miniana, +empties itself into the lake Dibbie. It is not quite half so large as +the Niger. I have not the least doubt of the truth of this, having heard +it from so many people. We shall not see Jinnie in going to Tombuctoo. + +_Route from Sego to Miniana._ + +From Sego in one day, + +Deena, across the Ba Nimma in canoes, and halt on +the south side; thence in one day, +Dahmaroo, +Sijirri, +Neaguana, +Mullo Soo, +Billi Soo; +In all seven days. + +The inhabitants of Miniana eat their enemies, and strangers, if they die +in the country. They eat the flesh of horses; but such is their +veneration for the cow that she is never killed; when she dies, they eat +the flesh. Miniana is hilly; all the grains are cultivated the same as +in Bambarra. + + _Route from Sego to Badoo_. +From Sego in one day. + Koogoo, + N. goi, [Footnote: Thus written in Park's MS.] + Jeenna, + Doo-Wassoo. + Choyna, + Guandoo on the banks of the Badingfing, a small + river from Miniana. + Cheraboo, + Baboo, + Blendoo, + Koolokoo, + Kay-a, + Wangeera, + Jibbi, + Nemansana, + Kooli, + Chemosoo, + N. jeera, + Chekora, + Koonteela, + Doomba, + Chongi, + Teng: gera, a great Juli town; a Juli is called in + Baedoo, Kirko Bimba; + Teeleemagee, + Soomasoo, + Koorinsoo, + Jondoo; Juli town, + Sala, + N. Kannoo, Juli town. + +The whole of the foregoing places are in Bambarra. + + Totti, a town in Baedoo. + Baedoo, the capital. + +The Julis are people who understand the language of Baedoo and Miniana, +and are employed as interpreters and brokers by the salt merchants. One +month's travel South of Baedoo through the kingdom of Gotto, will bring +the traveller to the country of the Christians, who have their houses on +the banks of the _Ba Sea feena_; this water they represent as being +imcomparably larger than the lake Dibbie, and that the water sometimes +flows one way, sometimes another. There are no Shea trees in Kong or +Gotto, and very few in Baedoo. + + + + +ISAACO'S JOURNAL. + +VOL. II. + + +_Government House + +Sierra Leone, 10th December, 1811._ + +"MY LORD, + +"With reference to my letter of the 8th of March 1810, communicating +having engaged a person to go in search, and ascertain the fate of the +late Mr. Mungo Park; I have the honour to communicate to Your Lordship, +that this person returned to Senegal on the 1st of September; but I am +concerned to state that his information confirms the various reports of +Mr. Park's death. + +"I have enclosed a copy of the Journal of the person whom I sent, which +was kept in Arabic, and has been translated into English by a person +resident in Senegal. + +"Isaaco has been paid the promised reward, which I hope will be approved +by your Lordship. + +"I have the honour to be, + +"MY LORD, + +"Your Lordship's most obedient + +"humble Servant, + +"C.W. MAXWELL. + +"_Governor._" + + +_To the Right Honourable +The Earl of Liverpool._ + + + +ISAACO'S JOURNAL. + + +I, Isaaco, left Senegal on Sunday, the 22d day of the moon Tabasky; +[Footnote: Seventh of January, 1810.] in the afternoon we came to an +anchor at the foot of the bar. We passed the bar next morning, and had +like to have lost ourselves; we got on board the George. Weighed anchor +in the night of the 23d, from the roads, and anchored at Goree the 24th +at about 4 P.M. [Footnote: These times of the day are not very exact, +being regulated by the Mahometan times of prayer.] On my arrival there, +I found some of my effects had been stolen; I signified to the +commandant of Goree my intention to postpone my voyage, until my stolen +goods were found. The commandant sent me back on board the George, and +ordered the vessel to return to Senegal, that I might make there my +complaint to Governor Maxwell. We were nine days at sea with heavy +weather, and could not fetch; we were obliged to return to Goree on the +tenth day. + +The commandant next day (Friday) after my arrival, sent a courier to +Senegal to the Governor, with the account of my goods being stolen; and +on the Friday following the courier brought me my effects. [Footnote: +These goods had been stolen in the lighter outside of the bar.] The same +day in the afternoon, I left Goree in the George, and arrived in Gambia, +the night after at Yoummy. We left Yoummy on the Sunday following, and +arrived on Monday at Jilifrey. We left Jilifrey the same day; passed +Tancrowaly, in the night, and on Tuesday came opposite a forest. Passed +this spot, and came to anchor at Baling. From Baling came to an anchor +opposite a forest at four P.M. We got under weigh in the night and came +to in the morning. Departed after breakfast, and came to at noon. +Departed immediately after, and came to after sunset. Passed Caour in +the night, and came to anchor at four A.M. (Thursday). Weighed in the +evening and came to Yanimmarou at noon. We left Yanimmarou in the +morning of Friday, and came to Mongha. Left the Mongha the same day at +sunset, and came to Mariancounda late in the evening, and Robert Ainsley +being there, I landed and presented to him the Governor's letter; making +in all eight days from Goree to my arrival at Mariancounda. + +Robert Ainsley kept me five days with him. He gave me, by the Governor's +desire, one horse, one ass, and twenty bars of beads. I left Robert +Ainsley on Wednesday morning, and went to the village of the king of +Cataba to pay my respects. I had previously sent the same day, my +baggage and people, to Giammalocoto. On my arrival before Cataba, I gave +him one musket, and one string of amber No. 4. which he distributed to +his attendants. In the evening of the same day, I took leave of the +king, and arrived at Giammalocoto, after sunset, where I met my people +and effects. I left Giammalocoto, on Friday morning, and slept at +Tandacounda. I departed next morning (Saturday) and slept at Guenda. On +Sunday crossed a rivulet and slept under a tamarind tree close to the +village of Sandougoumanna. I sent to Sallatigua-koura, king of that +country, five bars of tobacco (ten heads). I went and slept at +Woullimanna. I gave to Mansancoije, the chief, two bars of scarlet cloth +and two bars of tobacco, and to his son, one bar of scarlet cloth. I +also gave to my landlord three bars of tobacco. Departed next day early; +stopped at Carropa at noon, and went to Coussage, where we slept. I +there found my family, who had been driven away by the Bambarra army. I +staid at Coussage two days and gave Maitafodey, chief of the village, +three bottles of powder. [Footnote: One bottle of powder passes for five +bars.] We left Coussage in the evening, with all my family; arrived at +Montogou in the morning, where my family resided before the Bambarra +army entered this country. I here found my mother. I staid at Montogou +about one month and a half, or forty-six days. + +Having disposed of such of my property as I could not carry with me, I +left Montogou at about nine A.M. with my family and people, stopped at +Moundoundon, having crossed three rivulets; slept there. Mamadou, the +chief, killed me a sheep: I gave him one bottle of powder. We departed +in the morning, stopped at Couchiar at noon, under a bark-tree, where we +passed the rest of the day. We filled our leather bags with water and +departed about four P.M. We travelled all night and came to Saabie at +three A.M. This village is inhabited by Marabous (priests). We stayed +there two days. I found there a relation of one of my wives. I gave him +one bottle of powder and three pagnes (a piece of cloth the natives make +use of in their dresses). We left Saabie in the morning, stopped at noon +at Joumajaoury, and arrived at Tallimangoly. I there met a relation who +killed a sheep. I gave him three grains of amber. We slept there. Next +morning we departed, and arrived at midnight at Baniscrilla, where I +found the King of Bondou with the Bambarra army. I went to pay my +respects to him, and gave him ten bottles of powder, thirteen grains of +amber No. 1, two grains of coral No. 1, and one handsome tin box. To his +first valet one pagne, worth one piece of baft; to his goldsmith four +pagnes; to the Chief of the village two bottles of powder. (Ten bars.) +Slept there two nights; departed early, so did the army on their way to +Gambia. We stopped at noon at Cambaya, being very hungry: we departed in +the evening; and slept on the road. At about eight A.M. on the next day, +we passed Gnary and Sangnongagy; received at this last village some peas +without stopping. We stopped at noon at Dougay. Next morning early we +departed, and stopped at noon at Daacada; in the evening we stopped and +slept at Bougoldanda. Next day we stopped at noon at Saamcolo. Some +singers of the village paid me a visit; I gave them a few trinkets. I +had here a grand palaver (dispute) about one of my dogs, who had, as was +said, bit a man; with great difficulty I prevented the animal from being +killed. + +Departed next day early; arrived at noon at Soumbourdaga, and slept +there. Next morning at nine A.M. arrived at Debbou; my friend Saloumou +gave me two sheep; I gave him two bottles of powder. Saloumou told me he +would keep me company to Sego if I pleased; I readily agreed, and gave +him ten pagnes to give to his wife to support her until his return. Next +morning, Saloumou being ready, we departed from Debbou: we crossed the +Faleme, and stopped on the other side at a village also called Debbou. I +bought there two sheep and some corn; we staid there three days, and had +our corn converted into kouskous. We departed from Debbou early on +Monday, the first day of Raky Gamon, [Footnote: May 4, 1810.] and +arrived at noon at the village of Diggichoucoumee, the residence of the +King of Bondou: we stayed there four days and killed two sheep. I gave +to Almami Sega two bottles of powder; bought one sheep. Departed early +and went to Sabcouria, where we slept; it is the last village of Bondou +to the northward. + +Left Sabcouria early, and passed Gouloumbo: we slept on the road. Next +morning at nine A. M. we stopt at Dramana, in sight of Saint Joseph, the +Fort of Galam; we staid there five days. I was forced to stay there so +long, on account of a palaver I had with the family of one of my wives, +who opposed her going on the voyage with me: I was divorced, and she had +to give me what she had received at our marriage, which is the law among +us Mahomedans. I received one bullock and four sheep. I gave the Chief +Euchoumana fourteen bars in amber and powder; to the people one bottle +and a half of powder, and two bars of amber; to the Chief of Galam two +bottles of powder and twenty flints. + +We departed early; crossed _Choligota_ [Footnote: The Ch must be +pronounced through the throat.] and Taning_ch_olee, two rivulets, and +arrived at noon at Moussala; slept there. We were well treated by the +Chief. I gave him two flints and thirty loads of powder. Departed very +early, and arrived at Tambouncana on the Senegal River. I there saw a +Moor who had a very fine mare, which I bought with the goods which were +returned to me in my palaver at Dramana. The King of Bambarra built +there a large fort. We departed, and arrived at noon at Samicouta; we +then went to Gui_ch_alel, where we slept at the house of Amady face, +Chief of the village. We stopt there the next day, owing to one of my +slaves running away, whom I got back again. Early in the morning we +crossed the Senegal River at Settoucoule, on the Moors' side. I bought +one sheep; slept there, and was well treated. + +Departed early; stopt at nine A.M. at Coulou, and slept there; we found +there only the women, the men had followed the Bambarra army. Departed +early, crossed _Ch_olibinne and arrived at Challimancounna, where I +staid two days. Ourigiague, the Chief, received me well, and killed a +bullock. I gave him one bottle of powder. We departed long before +day-break, crossed Fallaou, stopt at day-break at the Lake of Douro to +take water; we went on, and arrived at nine A.M. at Medina. I was +obliged to stay there twelve days, to wait the return of one of my +fellow travellers; not hearing any thing of him, I sent a man after him, +because I had lent him my mare and a musket. The man brought me back my +mare and musket. I was there well treated by the Chief and village +people, who gave me five sheep. I gave them in return one bottle of +powder, and one and a half bars. I bought a sheep. This completed the +three moons from my departure from Montogou. + +We departed early, and crossed Kirgout, a river full of hippopotami and +alligators. At noon arrived at Cougnacary, formerly the metropolis of +the kingdom of Casso, but now occupied by Bambarras. Received one sheep, +and gave one bottle of powder and five flints. We slept there, and next +day early went round and crossed the river Kirgout again. At nine A.M. +passed Maretoumane; farther on, passed a large rock called Tap-pa. +Arrived at noon at Camatingue, after crossing five rivers; we staid +there two days; received a bullock and a sheep from the Seracoolies +residing in Casso. I gave to Nare-Moussa, the Chief, half a bottle of +powder, and ten grains of amber. One of my slaves was there redeemed, +and I received another in exchange. I met there the King of Bambarra's +messenger; I gave him half a bottle of powder. We departed early, +crossed Garry between two rocks; arrived at noon at Lambatara; slept +there. We were all the way surrounded by mountains and rocks. We started +early, after taking water for our provisions, and had to ascend high +mountains. About noon we arrived at the top of one of them; a part of my +people went forward. When on the very top of the hill, they were +surrounded and attacked by such a quantity of bees, that my people and +beasts of burden were scattered; [Footnote: The bees in those parts of +the country are very numerous, especially on the tops of the mountains. +A similar accident from the attack of bees is mentioned by Park in his +Journal, p. 37. See also Vol. I. p. 331.] when they were a little +appeased, we went after our beasts, who had thrown away every thing they +had on their backs. I found one of my asses dead, being stifled by the +bees getting into its nostrils, and one of my men almost dead by their +stings. I had to give him something to bring him to life, and that with +a great deal of pains. We slept at the foot of that mountain, under a +monkey-bread tree. + +Departed early; at nine A.M. we met on the road one of the King of +Bambarra's messengers, who was sent after me; we stopped and sat under a +tree together; he told me he was sent by his master, to let me know if +he met me at Cougnacary, he was ordered to procure me plenty of +provisions, and keep me there to rest myself; but as he had met me on +the road, and a long way past Cougnacary, he would lead me to the first +village, would get me some provisions, and that I might stay there to +rest myself; to which I agreed. We passed Goundouguédé and arrived at +four P.M. at Jyggiting Yalla; on my arrival I told the messenger my +intention of sending somebody to the King, to let him know of my being +in his dominions, and near him. I then sent Saloumon my friend to +Giocha, where the King resided. I told him on his arrival at Giocha, to +go to Sabila, the chief of all the King's slaves, and a confident of +his, to give him thirteen grains of amber No. 1, one pair of scissars, +one snuff-box, and one looking-glass; and tell him I sent him those +things as a present, and let him know of my arrival. After this man's +departure, I sent another messenger, and desired him to go to Giocha, to +endeavour to see my old friend Allasana-Bociara, one of the King of +Sego's messengers, who were sent as ambassadors, and tell him that I +send him this grain of amber, and that piece [Footnote: One round half +dollar.] of silver, as a mark of my being near him, and not to leave +Giocha before he saw me. I had learnt his arrival there by a caravan of +slaves I met on the road. + +After I had sent these two messengers unknown to one another, the King's +messenger came in the evening, and told me he was going away, but should +give orders to the first village he should come to, to receive me well +and give me provisions and all assistance; and that I should wait there +for further orders. I then slept there: in the course of the night, the +Chief of the village where I was ordered to go and stop for further +orders, sent a messenger to his son here, where I was, desiring him to +stop me here. Next morning his son came to me, and said it was useless +for me to go any farther; that his father had sent to him and desired he +would furnish me with whatever I wanted and keep me here. I told him, if +I staid where I was, I should die with all my family, of hunger and +thirst; and that I would go on where I was ordered, unless I was stopped +by force. I immediately got every thing ready and departed. + +At noon, we arrived at Maribougou, where I was ordered to stop. Foula +Massa, the Chief, sent me to his brother to take up lodgings. When I +came to his brother's house I was refused lodgings; I then went under a +large monkey-bread tree and made halt there. The Chief came and told me +to stay here; I said I could not, as water was very scarce, and my +company very numerous. He immediately gave orders that no one in the +village should draw water, so that I might not want, and that I should +have no excuse. I took that opportunity to give drink to all my people +and cattle, and filled my skins. Being ready to depart from thence, the +two men I had sent to Giocha from Jyggiting Yalla, arrived; one told me +he had seen Sabila, and delivered my message and present to him; that +Sabila said, he perceived I wanted to be his friend, to which he had no +objection; the other messenger told me, that the King of Sego's +ambassador said I might be assured he would not leave Giocha before he +saw me, according to my desire. + +I had in my caravan a merchant I met at Dramana; he came from Senegal, +and had some friends in this village, who sent to tell him to take away +his goods from mine and put them aside, as I was in great danger of +being plundered, and his goods would be lost to him if found amongst +mine; to which he objected; which gave me a proof of his good +intentions, and of his friendship to me. I was then convinced something +unpleasant was planning against me. I therefore forced this merchant to +take away his goods from mine; as it would be unjust he should suffer on +my account. I then placed myself and people against the tree, well +armed. I had two double-barrelled guns and a musket in good order, and +well loaded; and waited for what should happen. + +While I was in this state of defence, a messenger from the King came to +me, the same man I had met first, who told me, that as I was complaining +of want of water, he would conduct me to another village. We accordingly +departed, and arrived at Wassaba; when there, the messenger shewed me a +house where I was to take up my lodging, and have my things in safety. +He then wanted to separate my people from me and scatter them in the +village, so as to have a better chance to plunder me; to which I +strongly objected. I went with my people, baggage, &c. into the middle +of the yard of the house appointed for my lodging, and staid there. + +The Chief of the village came to me, and desired I should give him my +people to go and fetch me a bullock: the King's messenger took him aside +and spoke a little while to him: he came again and told me he could not +give me now the bullock, as his cattle were too far off among the King's +herd. When the messenger saw me settle in the yard, and disposed to +spend the evening there, he left me and went away. + +When I was sure of his departure, I sent another man to Giocha, and +ordered him to go to Madiguijou Marabou, who would introduce him to +Sabila; and when there, to give Sabila seven grains of amber, and tell +him to go and let the King know, that wherever I went, I met some of his +people who stopped me from one place to another; and my intention was +positively to go to him, and to beg Sabila to obtain my request. My +courier came back the next day, and told me that Sabila said, the King, +his master's pleasure was, that I should stay where I was, and come to +see him (the King) on the next day, with which I complied. + +Next day the King sent a messenger to me with orders to lead me to him. +I left my family and baggage, taking three horsemen of my people with me +and four footmen, and departed with the messenger. I had, previous to +that, sent a man before me with five grains of the largest amber No. 1. +with orders to wait at Giocha for me. We arrived at the back of the +village at three P.M. on Tuesday; the man I had sent before me, was +there waiting for me; he told me softly that where I was going we were +betrayed; and not to let the King know of my going to Sego, as our lives +depended upon it. I told him, that he well knew, I was sent by the +Governor of Senegal to Sego; and to Sego I must go, unless I was +prevented by death or force. I then entered the village and went +straight to the King's door, followed by his messenger, I there +alighted; the messenger made me wait at the door, and went in to take +the King's orders. He came back immediately and told me the King was +sleeping; the guard took possession of my people and me, and lodged us +in the guard-room with them. It was then about sunset, and not a single +soul of my friends and acquaintances or relations came to see me. I then +began to think seriously what was to be done. A griot [Footnote: Ballad +singer and dancer.] woman was the only person who came to comfort me in +my distress. + +This woman on leaving me went immediately to the ambassadors of Sego +(which I afterwards learnt), and said to them, "Oh me, oh me, my back is +broke." [Footnote: An expression of sorrow among the cassonkes.] The +ambassadors asked her the reason; she said, "Because Isaaco our friend +is here, and they are going to kill him." Sabila being a very powerful +man, and not hearing from him, I sent my boy to Madiguijou; and begged +he would introduce the boy to Sabila, and when there, to give him the +five grains of amber. Not being well guarded, I sent another man to my +landlord where I always resided when I passed in this village, with my +compliments, and my surprise at not seeing him since my arrival. He sent +me word that he was happy to hear of my being so near him and in good +health, and that nobody had given him any notice of my arrival: which +last words I attributed to his being afraid to meddle with me while in +the King's hands. I sent in the night the merchant who was advised to +draw his goods from mine at Maribougou, to the Sego ambassadors; and +informed them of my being here. + +Seeing the guards' carelessness, I went (still in the night) to my +landlord, who had still some influence near the king, and gave him one +of my wives necklaces, nine grains of amber, and seven grains of coral. +From thence I went to Madiguijou, and told him I was sent on a mission +to the King of Sego, with some papers; in order to facilitate me on my +voyage in search of a white man gone in the interior of this country +long ago. I went from there to Sabila and told him the same thing. +Afterwards I went back to the guard-house, and laid myself down to +sleep; while the guards were amusing themselves in dancing, singing, and +drinking. My slumber being disturbed by my uneasy mind, I awoke and +found all the guards gone. + +I went to take the air, and returned again to sleep, but could not. I +heard the feet of several horsemen in the street, going, I presumed, to +Sabila's house. Early in the morning I sent another message to the +ambassadors, to let them know how critically I was situated; that I +heard they were going away to Sego without me; and my uneasiness at not +hearing a word from them. They sent to ask me why I did not follow this +time the same road I had followed on my other voyage. I sent back the +man to let them know as the two kingdoms were at peace, I thought it +secure and safe to travel through this part; that Mungo Park had +promised King Mansong a present; and Mungo Park not returning, the +Governor of Senegal had entrusted this same present to me for Mansong, +and that I was now the bearer of it. However, since they were determined +to go without me, they might do so, and whether I should be released or +die; they should hear it soon enough at Sego. They sent to +Tiguing-Coroba [Footnote: Vulgarly Tiguing-coro.] (the King) a message +saying; We have heard that Isaaco our friend is at Giocha, bearer of a +present to Dacha (King of Sego) which Mr. Park had promised to Mansong +(Dacha's father); that Mr. Park not returning in time to his country, +his friends had appointed Isaaco to be the bearer of that present, which +is with him now, and is destined for Sego, to the King our master. In +case Isaaco wishes to go back, we beg you will not let him do so; but if +he wishes to go on, on his mission to Sego, we also beg and hope you +will give him all assistance, and some trusty persons to conduct him to +Sego. [Footnote: This equivocal invitation was given to the King, who +well knew that the King of Sego was more powerful than him; and if he +should injure Isaaco in any manner, he would be driven from his +dominions.] + +Then came Massatan Wague, a Marabou, who told me what I have above +related, and how I had been arrested with an intention to destroy me, +and take what I had; that Sibila had been the means of my escaping such +danger, and had saved my life; to which story I gave little credit, +knowing well the reason why they shewed me such mercy; but I thanked God +alone for my preservation. Massatan Wague advised me to give the King's +only son something. I went to that prince, and gave him half a piece of +white baft, and two grains of amber No. 1. I went back to the +guard-house, where I passed the following night. + +Next morning my landlord went to the King to beg (as every thing was +settled and appeared favourable on my side) that he might take me to his +lodging; to which the King consented. He immediately came and took me +away to his house with my people. I went with my land-lord +(Tong-Manchong) and my people to the King: on arriving, after the usual +salutations, I presented him with a fine tin box. The King addressed +Sabila, and said with a nod, "Here is the business." Sabila said, "This +man is our old friend, and is a good man." My landlord said the same. +The King turned to me and said, "No; here is your box and keep it; what +else you have brought in my country I shall keep; you may return to the +place you first started from, and travel on your mission by the same +road you travelled first, with the white men; but your goods, and every +thing else you have with you, I shall keep. I know what you have is +destined to the King of Sego." I said, "I might, it is true, have +traveiled by other roads, and you would never have heard of me; but in +my way, I heard you lived in peace and friendship with the King of Sego; +I therefore thought I might with security travel through your country." +He stopped me, saying, "What I have said to you is enough." + +I left the house with part of his slaves. I went to my lodging, and +immediately completed the amount of sixty bars in powder, amber, &c. I +took the horse Robert Ainsley had bought for me, three ducks, and the +tin box he refused. I gathered all these things, and went with my +landlord and offered them as presents to the King, which he accepted: in +his presence I gave Sabila one bottle of powder; to the King's singer +one snuff-box. The King, on seeing these presents, (the only thing to +cool his anger) told me he would lend me somebody who would conduct me +straight to Sego. I said, "I could not go so soon; because if I did, +whoever would see me would think I deserted from him; and I therefore +thought proper to stay where I was and rest myself awhile." The King +said to Sabila, "You see Isaaco appears to be a courageous man; if he +had been of a weak-spirited mind, he would have run away, and left his +things in my hands." I went home, and spent the rest of the day and the +night. + +In the morning I departed with my people to Wassaba, to fetch my family +and things; I staid there two days; but being uneasy in my mind, and +being afraid of something planning against me, and as I had good reason +to think so by the few words I heard at different times, I went back to +Giocha, presented myself to the King; and told him that before I left +his dominions, I had thought proper to come and swear fidelity and +friendship to him; and that whenever I should go backwards or forwards +from Senegal to Sego, I should always pass through his country and see +him; but that I should wish also at the same time that he would swear to +protect and treat me well, and be my friend; even should he be at war +with the King of Sego. He sent for Chiaman, the eldest son of the royal +family, who swore the same to me in his and the King's name. I likewise +swore before them what I related above. After swearing, Chiaman told me +to give him a handsome gun or a coussabi (shirt) by way of cementing our +oaths. I told him, I had none at present fit to present to him, but gave +him my word, that if I should go back to the white men's country, on my +return I would bring him one of those two objects. + +I staid in the village until the next morning. I had in the mean while +wrote a prayer (Grisgris) or amulet, to a man who gave me a bullock, +which I carried to Wassaba; I slept there. Next morning I had the +bullock killed. The next day Iaque, Chiaman's brother, sent me word to +wait there for him. I immediately sent my family and things by another +road, and waited for Iaque. He came and presented me with an ass loaded +with kouskous to help me in my travels. I gave him half a piece of fine +white baft, five bottles of powder, two looking-glasses, and two +snuff-boxes. He then left me, and I went the same day to Giocha, to take +leave of the King, and beg he would let me have the promised conductor +(between Wassaba and Giocha there being seven rivulets to cross.) He +gave me a man named Mourocouro, who went on foot. He then shook hands +with me, saying, "Isaaco, I bear you no malice now; but did so once, +because you conducted white men to Sego; and never passed here to let me +have something from them, whilst every body else shared their +generosity." I took my leave of him and went to Chicouray, Chiaman's +village, where I met my family and things safe. I staid there two days. +Chaiman killed me a bullock, and I gave him one pagne, worth two pieces +of bafts, one bottle of powder, twenty flints, and one bar of scarlet +cloth. + +We started in the evening and arrived at Chicouray. [Footnote: These two +last villages bear the same name.] Sambabile (Chiaman's other brother) +gave me some corn and a sheep. I gave him a blue pagne, a striped ditto, +one bottle of powder, twenty flints, and one bar of scarlet cloth; which +pagnes I got by the sale of three slaves I was obliged to sell to help +me in my expenses. I staid there two days; in the morning I started, and +arrived at noon at Jyallacoro; where resided Madifoutane, the King's +son, to whom I had given half a piece of fine cotton and two grains of +amber; he gave me some corn. Madimarian, a Marabou, killed me a bullock; +I give him one bottle of powder. + +Next morning I started from thence, passed three villages, and arrived +at three P.M. at Cobla. I received cooked victuals from the village; I +gave two flints. We departed next morning early, and arrived at noon at +Amadifalouma bougou, the last village belonging to King Tiguing-coro, it +being on Wednesday, and six moons [Footnote: July 2, 1810.] after my +departure from Senegal. I bought there an ass. + +Having before me a large forest to cross, and uncertain of the right +road, I hired four men to conduct me. I departed next morning, and +crossed a small river near the village. We entered the forest at noon, +and came to a large muddy pond, where the hogs could not pass safely; +our guides shewed us a better road, where we crossed easily. At two P.M. +we stopped where had been formerly a village. We found in our way after +sun-set, a large land turtle, which we killed; and passed the night +there. Departed early; at ten A.M. passed Sarina, formerly a village; +stopped awhile. The four men I had charged to go as guides, wished to go +back; they were afraid to go on further. I was much disappointed at such +behaviour, and got angry with them, and said I would sooner go back than +be left in such a forest. They shewed me a road, and told me to follow +it straight along, and to be careful not to turn either to the right or +left, and that I should soon find a village inhabited. I gave them half +a bottle of powder and ten flints, and let them go, as I could not do +otherwise. + +I went on, and found the road the King of Sego's army had taken nine +years ago. [Footnote: When at war with Tiguing-coro.] Farther on we met +a small pond; being very thirsty, we spent there the best part of the +day; a little farther we found a large pond, where we made a halt, and +past the night under a tree. Departed early; arrived at noon at the +lakes of Chinchare and Tirinn. These lakes are never dry; and the King's +army always stops at them to take water. After dinner we started, and at +five P.M. arrived at another lake. We went on, and came to the village +of Giangounte after sun-set; where we stopped five days, on account of +one of my people being sick; received the first night a few provisions; +next day they killed me a bullock. Here I thanked God for my escape. + +On the third day the King's people came; the village gave them a bullock +and a sheep, which I killed myself; they gave me a quarter of each for +my share. This village is surrounded by a mud wall, is well fortified, +and I presume is well secured against any attack. One of the hogs being +very large and fat, I could not carry it any farther, but with great +difficulty: I told the Chief of the village to take charge of the hog, +and have it conveyed to the King his master; to which he objected, being +afraid to take charge of an unknown animal, and the additional +responsibility of taking charge of it for his master. I told him I found +it impossible for me to carry it any farther; I should therefore leave +it with him, and he might do with it as he pleased. That the village +belonged to his master, so did the hog, and I was sure he would take +good care of it. + +We departed early and arrived at noon at Fabougou. After dinner we went +to Giongoey, where we arrived after sun-set; we staid there two days. +Early in the morning we departed, and at ten A.M. arrived at the lake +Sonne; stopped a little under a tree; crossed the lake; stopped awhile +at Tonneguela; arrived and stopped at Gommingtora, where we spent the +night; received a sheep. Departed early, and at ten A. M. arrived at +Wattere. Departed in the evening and came to a large open field, very +dangerous for travellers, on account of the Moors passing there very +often. We therefore travelled during the day and all the night. + +At three A.M. came to Toucha. On my way from Gommingtora here, I saw a +tree grown on the top of the dried stump of another large tree; the wood +of the above tree is employed in the composition of our gunpowder. There +is also near the tree a large and high rock, forming a pyramid, and a +large stone on the top of its head. On my arrival at Toucha, I missed a +chest which my nephew carried, and which contained some looking glasses, +beads, my fine coussabi, and my wife's bracelets, which were given me by +Governor Maxwell. I asked the boy what was become of it; he said, that +being fatigued on the way, he had given the chest to a man who had +followed our caravan from Giocha. I suspected the man had stolen it, by +not seeing him with us. I left my family and things there, and went +immediately with some of the King's people to Wattera in search of the +thief. I had the Chief of Toucha's son and the son of the Chief of +Wattera with me. From Wattera we went to Tagoubou, where we found the +thief, who had broken the chest and taken away the things; he had on my +coussabi, had sold some things, and had in hand the remainder, looking +after a slave to purchase. We seized him. The Chief of Tagoubou begged +me not to hurt him in his village, but to carry him to Dinghang. Arrived +at Dinghang. Maineoro, the Chief, told me, since I caught the thief, I +might take him away, and do as I thought proper with him. + +We went and slept at Togouboo, and next morning went to Wattera. +Departed in the evening and arrived at night at Toucha, and joined my +family. On our way the thief shewed me where he had destroyed the chest. +I found the boards useless, and left them. I left Toucha early next +morning, and at nine A.M. arrived at Douabougou. The Chief wished me to +stay, but I refused, and he gave me a sheep. Farther on we passed +Dilla-faa Courna and Bonabougou, where we staid awhile, and went to see +Magnacoro at sunset: (these villages are all surrounded by Ronn-trees; +[Footnote: A species of palm tree. (I do not know the particular +name.)]) the thief carrying all the way the remaining hog. On my way +there, one of my people staid on the road, having a sore leg. I was well +treated at Magnacoro and slept there; the man with the sore leg came +next day. I staid two days. There is in this village a fine Doualli +tree, the first I had seen on my way from Senegal; this tree is most +beautiful, always green and in blossom, but bearing no fruit whatever. +On the back of the village there is a foundery for casting iron; at a +little distance on the river there is a cataract, not quite so high as +the Feloups. I took guides to shew me the right road. Departed early; at +noon arrived at Soubacarra, passed Tacoutalla; crossed there a small +rivulet; farther on crossed another, and stopped at Sirecaime, a village +situated between two mountains, where we slept. Next morning received +ten moulles [Footnote: A small measure made out of a calabash.] of corn +and departed. + +At noon arrived at Camecon; received there from Fiong, the Chief, a +sheep, some milk, and corn. In the afternoon departed, and passed +Sidong. At sun-set arrived at Sannanba, where we slept. I found here my +sister and one of my wives I had left in my voyage with Mr. Park, and +where they waited for my return. I asked them what they heard concerning +Mr. Park. They assured me that they had seen Alhagi Biraim, who told +them that Mr. Park was dead; and that he saw the canoe in which he died +in the country of Haoussa; to which country, he, Alhagi, had been, and +to the place where Mr. Park died. Yamme Marabou gave me bullock; so did +Moulina one; Guiniba one; and Facoro, the Chief, also one and some corn. +Two sheep were given to me by Alhagi; one by Fatuna-bougou; one by +Amadibinne-doucara, and three by Dimba Soumares. We staid there eight +days. + +On the ninth day the hog I had left behind was brought here. I received +one ass from Mouline: I gave to Amadibinne one musket and five yards of +white cotton; to Yamme half a bottle of powder; to my sister ten dollars +and one muslin pagne; to the Chief one bottle of powder and twenty +flints. I released here the thief, who all the way had carried the hog; +I released him, because I was certain, that, if once in the King's +power, he would be put to death. Four days after the hog came, being the +thirteenth day of my stay at Sannamba (Saturday), and the seventh moon +of my voyage. + +I departed early, and ordered the hog to be brought along by the same +people; passed Baromba, took water at a large fountain; passed +Bancoumalla. After passing a large lake, stopped and slept at Sirberra, +at the house of Babamerine, who killed a sheep: received from Manchia +the Chief, one sheep; I gave them twenty loads of powder and ten flints. +Departed in the night, and arrived at two in the morning at Counnow. +There is but one well for the whole village, and three beautiful large +Doualli trees are round it. Found there the King's army. + +There is on the east of the village an enormous large tree, inhabited by +a great number of bats; another such tree is on the west side of the +village, likewise full of bats; but what is most extraordinary, the bats +of the east constantly go at night to the west, and return to the east +at the approach of day; those of the west never go to the east. The bats +are all of the same kind. The natives say that their lawful king lies on +the west. [Footnote: Tiguing-coro, the descendant of the lawful Kings of +Sego.] The army departed about three, and I about day-light; we met on +the road the rear guard on its way to join the army. At four P.M. +arrived at Gargnie, a large village, where we slept. There is but one +door to enter it, and two large trees on each side of the door; the +village is situated in the front of a beautiful large lake, which +supplies them with water. We met there a caravan from Cancare; received +from them a few collas. Departed early, and at ten A.M. arrived at +Dedougou, where we slept. The people of Gargnie had brought here the hog +and gone back; and the people of this village being all out in their +fields, I was obliged to wait until next morning, so as to have the hog +carried; received three fowls; I gave three loads of powder. Next +morning I required four hands to carry the hog (which imposition I laid +on every village I came to) and departed. Passed Issicora and five +deserted villages; at four P. M. arrived at Yaminna, and stayed there +three days, at the house of Boya Modiba, who killed me a sheep. I gave +him two bars of scarlet cloth. A woman who had been redeemed at +Montogou, and who had followed my caravan, found here her husband, who +gave me a sheep and a hundred collas. + +Departed early and arrived at noon at Yaminna, [Footnote: Bearing the +same name as the last place.] on the river Joliba (Niger). I wanted to +cross the river immediately, but the rain prevented me; at four P.M. +embarked in a canoe, and went on till about ten P.M. Arrived at +Mognongo, on the other side of the river, having passed nine villages. +The river here is very wide. Departed again, and arrived at noon at +Samman; lodged with Guinguina, where we formerly lodged with Mr. Park, +and where we lost three white men by sickness. At four P.M. departed, +and arrived at sun-set at Sego-coro, on the opposite side of Samman, +having passed four villages; lodged with Sego Somma. + +This village was formerly the residence of the kings; and to this day, +when the King wishes to go to war, he always goes there to have his +gris-gris (amulets) made, and to prepare himself. When they take a king, +a prince, or a man of high rank, whether a stranger, or of the country, +they confine him until the fasting moon is come. He is brought in that +moon to this village, and laid down in a house appropriated for this +purpose only. His throat is then cut across. When the blood has +completely stained the ground, the body is carried into the open field, +and left a prey to the wild beasts. There is not a fasting moon, but +that one or more are butchered in the house, and for the space of eight +days after these executions, no man, whatever he may be, is allowed to +pass by that house (called Kognoba) without pulling off his shoes or +cap. + +Departed early, passed Segobougou, Segocoura, and Douabougou, and +arrived about eight A.M. at Sego-chicoro, the residence of Dacha King of +the Bambarras, on Monday 11th of the moon. [Footnote: August 26, 1810.] +This town was built by Dacha's grandfather, [Footnote: Mansong's father, +named Wolloo.] who rebelled against the lawful king; being chosen leader +at the head of his party, drove the king from his dominions, who retired +to the west, [Footnote: He is obliged to gather another army and go +himself at the head of it, to revenge the first, should it be +destroyed.] and was proclaimed king himself. Being a great warrior, he +maintained himself on the usurped throne, and left it to his posterity, +who enjoy it peaceably now. + +I lodged with Guiawe, a man attached to the King. Next morning the King +hearing of my arrival, sent to tell me he was going to Douabougou, and +wished I would go and see him there. He had got on his horse and was +proceeding, when a heavy shower of rain came on; he dismounted and went +back to his house. After the rain, he ordered me to come to him, and +bring him the hogs in the manner I had tied them for travelling. On my +entrance in the first yard I found a guard of forty men, young, strong, +and without beards. On entering another yard I met another guard, well +armed and very numerous, lying in the shade. A little farther on I found +the king sitting; there were four broad swords stuck in the ground, on +each side and behind him, which had been given to him by Mr. Park. He +had on his military coat, which he is obliged to wear when he sends out +an army, and cannot leave off until the army returns. He commonly wears +dresses of white or blue cotor, or silk, with a great many gris-gris, +covered with plates of gold or silver, sewed about his dresses. I sat +down on one side of him, and my landlord on the other side. After the +usual salutations, I laid before him the drum, the two blunderbusses, +the bed, the two hogs, the scarlet cloth, &c. and one dog. [Footnote: +The other got away on leaving Mariancounda, and was lost.] I said to +him: "Maxwell, Governor of Senegal, salutes you, and sends his +compliments to you; here is the present which Manchong (or Mansong) your +father asked of Mr. Park, and which he promised to send him." He said, +"Is the Governor well?" I said, "Yes, he is well, and desired me to beg +your assistance in his endeavours to discover what is become of Mr. +Park, and ascertain whether he is dead or alive; and that you would give +me a vessel to facilitate my voyage; and the Governor will reward you +for so doing." He replied, "What does the Governor mean to give me?" I +said, "If you render me all the assistance in your power, the Governor +will give you two hundred bars." He asked me, how the Governor could +give him that sum, being so far from him? I told him, the Governor, it +was true, was far from him; but that I was there to represent and answer +for him. He then accepted my offer and promised me his assistance. The +King ordered a bullock to be killed for me. I staid to the end of that +moon. [Footnote: September 13, 1810.] + +The first [Footnote: September 14, 1810. They reckon one day when the +moon is seen.] of the following moon, being the day I intended to +depart, a prince of Tombuctoo came to Sego, to demand a wife who had +been promised him. The King went out to meet him with a guard of six +hundred men, almost naked and well armed. The prince said, that being a +friend of his father (Manchong), he thought it his duty to come and let +him know of his coming to take the wife promised him; the King replied, +"Why have you permitted the people of your country to plunder one my +caravans, [Footnote: My landlord lost his share in that caravan; seven +hundred gros of gold and a slave.] and why did you not prevent it, and +why did you yourself plunder another, belonging also to me?" The King +left the prince out, and returned to his house with the guards, after +unloading their muskets. The prince went to his lodging. He reflected +how critically he was situated, and that by his bad behaviour, the wife +which he had once been promised, had been given to another; and that the +people of the caravan he had plundered, had been before the King and +there had denounced him; and that his life was at stake. He immediately +sent three horses to the King, and half a piece of cotor [Footnote: So +in the MS. of this translation.] to all the chiefs present. + +Next day the ambassadors of Giocha came together with the ambassadors of +Tiguing-coro. The day after the King went to Impebara. I next day went +to meet him there. After staying there nine days, and hearing nothing, I +was much displeased; some one went to the King and told him that I was +angry, and was about to depart. He sent to tell me he was going to +Banangcoro, and that I should go with him; he did depart from +Banangcoro, but I staid; he sent me a courier to order me near him. I +went to Banangcoro, and lodged with Inche, the King's slave and +confident. The motive of the King's journey was to see one of his +children. He has six now living: and three he had destroyed. The custom +is when a male child of the King's wives is born on a Friday, that the +throat should be cut; which is done immediately. The King sent for me. I +went to him at ten A.M.; he ordered part of the presents to be brought +before him; which was done, and among which were the hogs. [Footnote: +The remaining hog died shortly after my arrival at Sego.] They were left +loose before him and pleased him much. + +On the next day (Friday) he gave me a canoe with three hands +(fishermen), and I departed on my voyage after Mr. Park the following +tide; we passed ten villages, and arrived at supper time at Sansanding, +[Footnote: This village is two days journey by land from Banangcoro.] +where we slept; departed by land at three P.M. and arrived at sunset at +Madina, and lodged with Alihou. I found there Amadi fatouma, [Footnote: +Amadou fatooma.] the very guide I had recommended to Mr. Park, and who +went with him on his voyage from Sansanding. I sent for him; he came +immediately. I demanded of him a faithful account of what had happened +to Mr. Park. On seeing me, and hearing me mention Mr. Park, he began to +weep; and his first words were, "They are all dead." I said, "I am come +to see after you, and intended to look every way for you, to know the +truth from your own mouth, how they died." He said that they were lost +for ever, and it was useless to make any further enquiry after them; for +to look after what was irrecoverably lost, was losing time to no +purpose. I told him I was going back to Sansanding, and requested he +would come the next day there to meet me, to which he agreed. I went to +Sansanding and slept there; next day I sent back the canoe to Impebara. +Amadi fatouma came at the appointed time to meet me, being the 21st day +of the moon. [Footnote: 4th October, 1810.] I desired he would let me +know what passed to his knowledge concerning Mr. Park. + + + + +AMADI FATOUMA'S JOURNAL. + + +We departed from Sansanding in a canoe the 27th [Footnote: This Journal +mentions no moon nor year.] day of the moon, and went in two days to +Sellee, [Footnote: Called Siila in Mr. Park's first voyage.] where Mr. +Park ended his first voyage. Mr. Park bought a slave to help him in the +navigation of the canoe. There was Mr. Park, Martyn, three other white +men, three slaves and myself as guide and interpreter; nine in number, +to navigate the canoe: without landing we bought the slave. We went in +two days to Ginne. We gave the Chief one piece of baft and went on. In +passing Sibby, [Footnote: Here no mention is made of times. Called +Dibbie in the plan.] three canoes came after us, armed with pikes, +lances, bows and arrows, &c. but no fire-arms. Being sure of their +hostile intentions, we ordered them to go back; but to no effect; and +were obliged to repulse them by force. Passed on; we passed Rakbara; +[Footnote: Called Kabra in the plan.] three came up to stop our passage, +which we repelled by force. On passing Tombuctoo we were again attacked +by three canoes; which we beat off, always killing many of the natives. +On passing Gouroumo seven canoes came after us; which we likewise beat +off. We lost one white man by sickness; we were reduced to eight hands; +having each of us fifteen muskets, always in order and ready for action. +Passed by a village (of which I have forgotten the name), the residence +of King Gotoijege; after passing which we counted sixty canoes coming +after us, which we repulsed, and killed a great number of men. Seeing so +many men killed, and our superiority over them, I took hold of Martyn's +hand, saying, "Martyn, let us cease firing; for we have killed too many +already"; on which Martyn wanted to kill me, had not Mr. Park +interfered. After passing Gotoijege a long way, we met a very strong +army on one side of the river; composed of the Poul nation; they had no +beasts of any kind. We passed on the other side and went on without +hostilities. + +On going along we struck on the rocks. An hippopotamus rose near us, and +had nearly overset the canoe; we fired on the animal and drove it away. +After a great deal of trouble we got off the canoe without any material +danger. We came to an anchor before Kaffo, and passed the day there. We +had in the canoe before we departed from Sansanding, a very large stock +of provisions, salted and fresh of all kinds; which enabled us to go +along without stopping at any place, for fear of accident. The canoe was +large enough to contain with ease one hundred and twenty people. In the +evening we started and came to before an island; we saw on shore a great +quantity of hippopotami; on our approach they went into the water in +such confusion, that they almost upset our canoe. We passed the island +and sailed. In the morning three canoes from Kaffo came after us, which +we beat off. We came to near a small island, and saw some of the +natives; I was sent on shore to buy some milk. When I got among them I +saw two canoes go on board to sell fresh provisions, such as fowls, +rice, &c. One of the natives wanted to kill me; at last he took hold of +me, and said I was his prisoner. Mr. Park seeing what was passing on +shore, suspected the truth. He stopped the two canoes and people, +telling the people belonging to them, that if they should kill me, or +keep me prisoner on shore, he would kill them all and carry their canoes +away with him. Those on shore suspecting Mr. Park's intentions, sent me +off in another canoe on board; they were then released. After which we +bought some provisions from them, and made them some presents. + +A short time after our departure, twenty canoes came after us from the +same place; on coming near, they hailed and said, "Amadi fatouma, how +can you pass through our country without giving us any thing." I +mentioned what they had said to Mr. Park; and he gave them a few grains +of amber and some trinkets, and they went back peaceably. On coming to a +shallow part of the river, we saw on the shore a great many men sitting +down; coming nearer to them they stood up; we presented our muskets to +them, which made them run off to the interior. A little farther on we +came to a very difficult passage. The rocks had barred the river; but +three passages were still open between them. On coming near one of them, +we discovered the same people again, standing on the top of a large +rock; which caused great uneasiness to us, especially to me, and I +seriously promised never to pass there again without making considerable +charitable donations to the poor. We returned and went to a pass of less +danger, where we passed unmolested. + +We came to before Carmasse, and gave the Chief one piece of baft. We +went on and anchored before Gourinon. Mr. Park sent me on shore with +forty thousand cowries to buy provisions. I went and bought rice, +onions, fowls, milk, &c. and departed late in the evening. The Chief of +the village sent a canoe after us, to let us know of a large army +encamped on the top of a very high mountain, waiting for us; and that we +had better return, or be on our guard. We immediately came to an anchor, +and spent there the rest of the day, and all the night. We started in +the morning; on passing the above-mentioned mountain, we saw the army, +composed of Moors, with horses and camels; but without any fire-arms. As +they said nothing to us, we passed on quietly, and entered the country +of Haoussa, and came to an anchor. Mr. Park said to me, "Now, Amadi, you +are at the end of your journey; I engaged you to conduct me here; you +are going to leave me, but before you go, you must give me the names of +the necessaries of life, &c. in the language of the countries through +which I am going to pass;" to which I agreed, and we spent two days +together about it, without landing. During our voyage I was the only one +who had landed. We departed and arrived at Yaour. + +I was sent on shore the next morning with a musket and a sabre, to carry +to the chief of the village, also with three pieces of white baft for +distribution. I went and gave the Chief his present: I also gave one +piece to Alhagi, one to Alhagi-biron, and the other to a person whose +name I forget, all Marabous. The Chief gave us a bullock, a sheep, three +jars of honey, and four men's loads of rice. Mr. Park gave me seven +thousand cowries, and ordered me to buy provisions, which I did; he told +me to go to the Chief and give him five silver rings, some powder and +flints, and tell him that these presents were given to the King +[Footnote: The King staid a few hundred yards from the river.] by the +white men, who were taking leave of him before they went away. After the +Chief had received these things, he enquired if the white men intended +to come back. Mr. Park being informed of this enquiry, replied that he +could not return any more. [Footnote: These words occasioned his death; +for the certainty of Mr. Park's not returning induced the Chief to +withhold the presents from the King.] Mr. Park had paid me for my voyage +before we left Sansanding: I said to him, "I agreed to carry you into +the kingdom of Haoussa; we are now in Haoussa. I have fulfilled my +engagements with you; I am therefore going to leave you here and +return." + +Next day (Saturday) Mr. Park departed, and I slept in the village +(Yaour). Next morning, I went to the King to pay my respects to him; on +entering the house I found two men who came on horseback; they were sent +by the Chief of Yaour. They said to the King, "we are sent by the Chief +of Yaour to let you know that the white men went away, without giving +you or him (the Chief) any thing; they have a great many things with +them, and we have received nothing from them; and this Amadou fatouma +now before you is a bad man, and has likewise made a fool of you both." +The king immediately ordered me to be put in irons; which was +accordingly done, and every thing I had taken from me; some were for +killing me, and some for preserving my life. The next morning early the +King sent an army to a village called Boussa near the river side. There +is before this village a rock across the whole breadth of the river. One +part of the rocks is very high; there is a large opening in that rock in +the form of a door, which is the only passage for the water to pass +through; the tide current is here very strong. This army went and took +possession of the top of this opening. Mr. Park came there after the +army had posted itself; he nevertheless attempted to pass. The people +began to attack him, throwing lances, pikes, arrows and stones. Mr. Park +defended himself for a long time; two of his slaves at the stern of the +canoe were killed; they threw every thing they had in the canoe into the +river, and kept firing; but being overpowered by numbers and fatigue, +and unable to keep up the canoe against the current, and no probability +of escaping, Mr. Park took hold of one of the white men, and jumped into +the water; Martyn did the same, and they were drowned in the stream in +attempting to escape. The only slave remaining in the boat, seeing the +natives persist in throwing weapons at the canoe without ceasing, stood +up and said to them, "Stop throwing now, you see nothing in the canoe, +and nobody but myself, therefore cease. Take me and the canoe, but don't +kill me." They took possession of the canoe and the man, and carried +them to the King. + +I was kept in irons three months; the King released me and gave me a +slave (woman). I immediately went to the slave taken in the canoe, who +told me in what manner Mr. Park and all of them had died, and what I +have related above. I asked him if he was sure nothing had been found in +the canoe after its capture; he said that nothing remained in the canoe +but himself and a sword-belt. I asked him where the sword-belt was; he +said the King took it, and had made a girth for his horse with it. + + + + +ISAACO'S JOURNAL IN CONTINUATION. + + +I immediately sent a Poule to Yaour to get me the belt by any means and +at any price, and any thing else he could discover belonging to Mr. +Park. I left Madina and went to Sansanding, and from thence to Sego. On +my arrival I went to Dacha, the King, and related to him the above +facts. He said he would have gone himself to destroy that country, if it +had not been so far. He gathered an army and went with it to Banangcoro. +I followed him there. He ordered the army to go and destroy the kingdom +of Haoussa. The army went away, passed Tombuctoo a long way, and made a +halt at Sacha; and dispatched a courier back to the King, to let him +know where they were, and that Haoussa was at too great a distance for +an army to go, without running many dangers of all kinds. The King +ordered them to go to Massina, a small country belonging to the Poule +nation, to take away all the Poules' cattle, and return. They did so, +and brought with them a great many cattle. The vanguard came with the +cattle after a voyage of three months; and the army came one month +after, which made four months they had been out. The King was much +displeased with the Chiefs' conduct, and wanted to punish them for not +going where he sent them; but they observed that they went as far as +they possibly could; that the distance was too great and would have +destroyed an army; and that prudence and the hardships they had already +sustained, had dictated the necessity of returning, though very contrary +to their inclinations. We all returned to Sego. + +I went back to Sansanding and staid there, waiting for the arrival of +the Poule I had sent to Yaour. Four months after he came back, having +been eight months on his voyage, and having suffered greatly. He brought +me the belt; and said that he had bribed a young slave girl belonging to +the King, who had stole it from him; and that he could not get any thing +more, as nothing else was to be found which had belonged to Mr. Park or +his companions. + +I went to Sego and informed the King of what I had got belonging to Mr. +Park, and that I was going to Senegal immediately. The King was desirous +that I should spend the rainy season with him. I said I could not stay; +as the object of my mission was attained, I wished to go as soon as +possible. Amadi fatouma being a good, honest, and upright man, I had +placed him with Mr. Park; what he related to me being on his oath, +having no interest, nor any hopes of reward whatever: nothing remaining +of Mr. Park or his effects; the relations of several travellers who had +passed the same country, agreeing with Amadou's Journal; being certain +of the truth of what he had said, and of the dangers I should have run +to no purpose in such a distant part; all these reasons induced me to +proceed no farther. After obtaining the belt, I thought it best to +return to Senegal. + +_Further Intelligence from Isaaco._ + +Isaaco says that Mr. Park gave him his papers to carry to Gambia to +Robert Ainsley, with an order on Robert Ainsley for ten bars. That Mr. +Park went away from Sansanding with Amadi fatouma, in his presence; that +he cannot tell precisely the date, but that Mr. Park died four months +after his departure from Sansanding, which date may be nearly taken from +the date of Mr. Park's papers brought by him (Isaaco) to Robert Ainsley. +That Mr. Park had lost all his companions but four men. He arrived at +Foolah Dougou with thirty-three white men, and from Foolah Dougou to +Sego (which was eight days march, but which is generally performed in +three days by a Negro) they lost twenty-six men by rains, the damps, &c. +Mr. Park went away from Sansanding, with four men, and he himself making +five. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE JOURNAL OF A MISSION TO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, IN THE YEAR 1805 *** + +This file should be named 8814-8.txt or 8814-8.zip + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. + +Most people start at our Web sites at: +https://gutenberg.org or +http://promo.net/pg + +These Web sites include award-winning information about Project +Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new +eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!). + + +Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement +can get to them as follows, and just download by date. This is +also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the +indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an +announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter. + +http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext05 or +ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext05 + +Or /etext04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, +91 or 90 + +Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want, +as it appears in our Newsletters. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours +to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. Our +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If the value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text +files per month: 1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+ +We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002 +If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total +will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks! +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users. + +Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated): + +eBooks Year Month + + 1 1971 July + 10 1991 January + 100 1994 January + 1000 1997 August + 1500 1998 October + 2000 1999 December + 2500 2000 December + 3000 2001 November + 4000 2001 October/November + 6000 2002 December* + 9000 2003 November* +10000 2004 January* + + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created +to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people +and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut, +Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, +Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, +Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New +Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, +Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South +Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West +Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. + +We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones +that have responded. + +As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list +will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states. +Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state. + +In answer to various questions we have received on this: + +We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally +request donations in all 50 states. If your state is not listed and +you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have, +just ask. + +While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are +not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting +donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to +donate. + +International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about +how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made +deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are +ways. + +Donations by check or money order may be sent to: + + PROJECT GUTENBERG LITERARY ARCHIVE FOUNDATION + 809 North 1500 West + Salt Lake City, UT 84116 + +Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment +method other than by check or money order. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by +the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN +[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154. Donations are +tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law. As fund-raising +requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be +made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +You can get up to date donation information online at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/donation.html + + +*** + +If you can't reach Project Gutenberg, +you can always email directly to: + +Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com> + +Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message. + +We would prefer to send you information by email. + + +**The Legal Small Print** + + +(Three Pages) + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks, +is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart +through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project"). +Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook +under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market +any commercial products without permission. + +To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may +receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims +all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation, +and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated +with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including +legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the +following that you do or cause: [1] distribution of this eBook, +[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook, +or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + eBook or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word + processing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the eBook (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the + gross profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only +when distributed free of all fees. Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by +Michael S. Hart. Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be +used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be +they hardware or software or any other related product without +express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + diff --git a/8814-8.zip b/8814-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..04af859 --- /dev/null +++ b/8814-8.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e63bbd3 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #8814 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/8814) |