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+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
+<html>
+<head>
+<title>Roughing It, Part 3</title>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
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+
+<h2>ROUGHING IT, By Mark Twain, Part 3 </h2>
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Roughing It, Part 3., by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Roughing It, Part 3.
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2004 [EBook #8584]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUGHING IT, PART 3. ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<br>
+<hr>
+<br><br><br><br><br><br>
+
+
+<center><img alt="cover.jpg (90K)" src="images/cover.jpg" height="1071" width="733"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="spine.jpg (54K)" src="images/spine.jpg" height="1071" width="307"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center>
+<h1>ROUGHING IT, Part 3</h1>
+<br><br>
+<h2>By Mark Twain</h2>
+</center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece1.jpg (168K)" src="images/frontispiece1.jpg" height="643" width="903"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<a name="frontispiece2"></a>
+<center><img alt="frontispiece2.jpg (184K)" src="images/frontispiece2.jpg" height="1020" width="600"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="titlepage.jpg (95K)" src="images/titlepage.jpg" height="1064" width="705"></center>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><img alt="dedication.jpg (18K)" src="images/dedication.jpg" height="273" width="425"></center>
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>PREFATORY.</h2> </center>
+<br>
+<p>This book is merely a personal narrative, and not a
+pretentious history or a philosophical dissertation. It is a
+record of several years of variegated vagabondizing, and its
+object is rather to help the resting reader while away an idle
+hour than afflict him with metaphysics, or goad him with science.
+Still, there is information in the volume; information concerning
+an interesting episode in the history of the Far West, about
+which no books have been written by persons who were on the
+ground in person, and saw the happenings of the time with their
+own eyes. I allude to the rise, growth and culmination of the
+silver-mining fever in Nevada&mdash;a curious episode, in some
+respects; the only one, of its peculiar kind, that has occurred
+in the land; and the only one, indeed, that is likely to occur in
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, take it all around, there is quite a good deal of
+information in the book. I regret this very much; but really it
+could not be helped: information appears to stew out of me
+naturally, like the precious ottar of roses out of the otter.
+Sometimes it has seemed to me that I would give worlds if I could
+retain my facts; but it cannot be. The more I calk up the
+sources, and the tighter I get, the more I leak wisdom.
+Therefore, I can only claim indulgence at the hands of the
+reader, not justification.</p>
+
+<p>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<br><br><br><br>
+<center><h2>CONTENTS.</h2></center>
+
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+
+
+<p><a href="#ch21">CHAPTER XXI.</a> Alkali Dust&mdash;Desolation and Contemplation&mdash;Carson
+City&mdash;Our Journey Ended&mdash;We are Introduced to Several Citizens&mdash;A
+Strange Rebuke&mdash;A Washoe Zephyr at Play&mdash;Its Office
+Hours&mdash;Governor's Palace&mdash;Government Offices&mdash;Our French
+Landlady Bridget O'Flannigan&mdash;Shadow Secrets&mdash;Cause for a
+Disturbance at Once&mdash;The Irish Brigade&mdash;Mrs. O'Flannigan's
+Boarders&mdash;The Surveying Expedition&mdash;Escape of the Tarantulas</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch22">CHAPTER XXII.</a> The Son of a Nabob&mdash;Start for Lake
+Tahoe&mdash;Splendor of the Views&mdash;Trip on the Lake&mdash;Camping
+Out&mdash;Reinvigorating Climate&mdash;Clearing a Tract of Land&mdash;Securing
+a Title&mdash;Outhouse and Fences</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch23">CHAPTER XXIII.</a> A Happy Life&mdash;Lake Tahoe and its
+Moods&mdash;Transparency of the Waters&mdash;A Catastrophe&mdash;Fire! Fire!&mdash;A
+Magnificent Spectacle&mdash;Homeless Again&mdash;We take to the Lake&mdash;A
+Storm&mdash;Return to Carson</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch24">CHAPTER XXIV.</a> Resolve to Buy a Horse&mdash;Horsemanship in
+Carson&mdash;A Temptation&mdash;Advice Given Me Freely&mdash;I Buy the Mexican
+Plug&mdash;My First Ride&mdash;A Good Bucker&mdash;I Loan the Plug&mdash;Experience
+of Borrowers&mdash;Attempts to Sell&mdash;Expense of the Experiment&mdash;A
+Stranger Taken In</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch25">CHAPTER XXV.</a> The Mormons in Nevada&mdash;How to Persuade a Loan
+from Them&mdash;Early History of the Territory&mdash;Silver Mines
+Discovered&mdash;The New Territorial Government&mdash;A Foreign One and a
+Poor One&mdash;Its Funny Struggles for Existence&mdash;No Credit, no
+Cash&mdash;Old Abe Currey Sustains it and its Officers&mdash;Instructions
+and Vouchers&mdash;An Indian's Endorsement&mdash;Toll-Gates</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch26">CHAPTER XXVI.</a> The Silver Fever&mdash;State of the Market&mdash;Silver
+Bricks&mdash;Tales Told&mdash;Off for the Humboldt Mines</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch27">CHAPTER XXVII.</a> Our manner of going&mdash;Incidents of the Trip&mdash;A
+Warm but Too Familiar a Bedfellow&mdash;Mr. Ballou Objects&mdash;Sunshine
+amid Clouds&mdash;Safely Arrived</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch28">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a> Arrive at the Mountains&mdash;Building Our
+Cabin&mdash;My First Prospecting Tour&mdash;My First Gold Mine&mdash;Pockets
+Filled With Treasures&mdash;Filtering the News to My Companions&mdash;The
+Bubble Pricked&mdash;All Not Gold That Glitters</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch29">CHAPTER XXIX.</a> Out Prospecting&mdash;A Silver Mine At Last&mdash;Making a
+Fortune With Sledge and Drill&mdash;A Hard Road to Travel&mdash;We Own in
+Claims&mdash;A Rocky Country</p>
+
+<p><a href="#ch30">CHAPTER XXX.</a> Disinterested Friends&mdash;How "Feet" Were Sold&mdash;We
+Quit Tunnelling&mdash;A Trip to Esmeralda&mdash;My Companions&mdash;An Indian
+Prophesy&mdash;A Flood&mdash;Our Quarters During It</p>
+
+
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+<center><h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2></center>
+<center>
+<table summary="">
+<tr><td>
+
+
+
+79. <a href="#158">CONTEMPLATION</a><br>
+80. <a href="#159">THE WASHOE ZEPHYR</a><br>
+81. <a href="#161">THE GOVERNOR'S HOUSE</a><br>
+82. <a href="#162">DARK DISCLOSURES</a><br>
+83. <a href="#163">THE IRISH BRIGADE</a><br>
+84. <a href="#164">RECREATION</a><br>
+85. <a href="#165">THE TARANTULA</a><br>
+86. <a href="#166">LIGHT THROWN ON THE SUBJECT</a><br>
+87. <a href="#169">I STEERED</a><br>
+88. <a href="#170">THE INVALID</a><br>
+89. <a href="#171">THE RESTORED</a><br>
+90. <a href="#172">OUR HOUSE</a><br>
+91. <a href="#174">AT BUSINESS</a><br>
+92. <a href="#176">FIGHT AT LAKE TAHOE</a><br>
+93. <a href="#179">"THINK HIM AN AMERICAN HORSE"</a><br>
+94. <a href="#180">UNEXPECTED ELEVATION</a><br>
+95. <a href="#181">UNIVERSALLY UNSETTLED</a><br>
+96. <a href="#182">RIDING THE PLUG</a><br>
+97. <a href="#183">WANTED EXERCISE</a><br>
+98. <a href="#186">BORROWING MADE EASY</a><br>
+99. <a href="#188">FREE RIDES</a><br>
+100. <a href="#190">SATISFACTORY VOUCHERS</a><br>
+101. <a href="#191">NEEDS PRAYING FOR</a><br>
+102. <a href="#192">MAP OF TOLL ROADS</a><br>
+103. <a href="#194">UNLOADING SILVER BRICKS</a><br>
+104. <a href="#196">VIEW IN HUMBOLDT MOUNTAINS</a><br>
+105. <a href="#199">GOING TO HUMBOLDT</a><br>
+106. <a href="#201">BALLOU'S BEDFELLOW</a><br>
+107. <a href="#202">PLEASURES OF CAMPING OUT</a><br>
+108. <a href="#205">THE SECRET SEARCH</a><br>
+109. <a href="#207">"CAST YOUR EYE ON THAT ...</a><br>
+110. <a href="#210">"WE'VE GOT IT"</a><br>
+111. <a href="#212">INCIPIENT MILLIONAIRES</a><br>
+112. <a href="#214">ROCKS-TAIL-PIECE</a><br>
+113. <a href="#216">"DO YOU SEE IT?"</a><br>
+114. <a href="#218">FAREWELL SWEET RIVER</a><br>
+115. <a href="#219">THE RESCUE</a><br>
+
+
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+
+
+<br><br><br><br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch21"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+<p>We were approaching the end of our long journey. It was the
+morning of the twentieth day. At noon we would reach Carson City,
+the capital of Nevada Territory. We were not glad, but sorry. It
+had been a fine pleasure trip; we had fed fat on wonders every
+day; we were now well accustomed to stage life, and very fond of
+it; so the idea of coming to a stand-still and settling down to a
+humdrum existence in a village was not agreeable, but on the
+contrary depressing.</p>
+
+<p>Visibly our new home was a desert, walled in by barren,
+snow-clad mountains. There was not a tree in sight. There was no
+vegetation but the endless sage-brush and greasewood. All nature
+was gray with it. We were plowing through great deeps of powdery
+alkali dust that rose in thick clouds and floated across the
+plain like smoke from a burning house.</p>
+
+<p>We were coated with it like millers; so were the coach, the
+mules, the mail-bags, the driver&mdash;we and the sage-brush and the
+other scenery were all one monotonous color. Long trains of
+freight wagons in the distance envelope in ascending masses of
+dust suggested pictures of prairies on fire. These teams and
+their masters were the only life we saw. Otherwise we moved in
+the midst of solitude, silence and desolation. Every twenty steps
+we passed the skeleton of some dead beast of burthen, with its
+dust-coated skin stretched tightly over its empty ribs.
+Frequently a solemn raven sat upon the skull or the hips and
+contemplated the passing coach with meditative serenity.</p>
+
+<a name="158"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="158.jpg (17K)" src="images/158.jpg" height="255" width="226">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>By and by Carson City was pointed out to us. It nestled in the
+edge of a great plain and was a sufficient number of miles away
+to look like an assemblage of mere white spots in the shadow of a
+grim range of mountains overlooking it, whose summits seemed
+lifted clear out of companionship and consciousness of earthly
+things.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived, disembarked, and the stage went on. It was a
+"wooden" town; its population two thousand souls. The main street
+consisted of four or five blocks of little white frame stores
+which were too high to sit down on, but not too high for various
+other purposes; in fact, hardly high enough. They were packed
+close together, side by side, as if room were scarce in that
+mighty plain.</p>
+
+<p>The sidewalk was of boards that were more or less loose and
+inclined to rattle when walked upon. In the middle of the town,
+opposite the stores, was the "plaza" which is native to all towns
+beyond the Rocky Mountains&mdash;a large, unfenced, level vacancy,
+with a liberty pole in it, and very useful as a place for public
+auctions, horse trades, and mass meetings, and likewise for
+teamsters to camp in. Two other sides of the plaza were faced by
+stores, offices and stables.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of Carson City was pretty scattering.</p>
+
+<p>We were introduced to several citizens, at the stage-office
+and on the way up to the Governor's from the hotel&mdash;among others,
+to a Mr. Harris, who was on horseback; he began to say something,
+but interrupted himself with the remark:</p>
+
+<p>"I'll have to get you to excuse me a minute; yonder is the
+witness that swore I helped to rob the California coach&mdash;a piece
+of impertinent intermeddling, sir, for I am not even acquainted
+with the man."</p>
+
+<p>Then he rode over and began to rebuke the stranger with a
+six-shooter, and the stranger began to explain with another. When
+the pistols were emptied, the stranger resumed his work (mending
+a whip-lash), and Mr. Harris rode by with a polite nod, homeward
+bound, with a bullet through one of his lungs, and several in his
+hips; and from them issued little rivulets of blood that coursed
+down the horse's sides and made the animal look quite
+picturesque. I never saw Harris shoot a man after that but it
+recalled to mind that first day in Carson.</p>
+
+<p>This was all we saw that day, for it was two o'clock, now, and
+according to custom the daily "Washoe Zephyr" set in; a soaring
+dust-drift about the size of the United States set up edgewise
+came with it, and the capital of Nevada Territory disappeared
+from view.</p>
+
+<p>Still, there were sights to be seen which were not wholly
+uninteresting to new comers; for the vast dust cloud was thickly
+freckled with things strange to the upper air&mdash;things living and
+dead, that flitted hither and thither, going and coming,
+appearing and disappearing among the rolling billows of
+dust&mdash;hats, chickens and parasols sailing in the remote heavens;
+blankets, tin signs, sage-brush and shingles a shade lower;
+door-mats and buffalo robes lower still; shovels and coal
+scuttles on the next grade; glass doors, cats and little children
+on the next; disrupted lumber yards, light buggies and
+wheelbarrows on the next; and down only thirty or forty feet
+above ground was a scurrying storm of emigrating roofs and vacant
+lots.</p>
+
+<a name="159"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="159.jpg (92K)" src="images/159.jpg" height="524" width="592">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>It was something to see that much. I could have seen more, if
+I could have kept the dust out of my eyes.</p>
+
+<p>But seriously a Washoe wind is by no means a trifling matter.
+It blows flimsy houses down, lifts shingle roofs occasionally,
+rolls up tin ones like sheet music, now and then blows a stage
+coach over and spills the passengers; and tradition says the
+reason there are so many bald people there, is, that the wind
+blows the hair off their heads while they are looking skyward
+after their hats. Carson streets seldom look inactive on Summer
+afternoons, because there are so many citizens skipping around
+their escaping hats, like chambermaids trying to head off a
+spider.</p>
+
+<p>The "Washoe Zephyr" (Washoe is a pet nickname for Nevada) is a
+peculiar Scriptural wind, in that no man knoweth "whence it
+cometh." That is to say, where it originates. It comes right over
+the mountains from the West, but when one crosses the ridge he
+does not find any of it on the other side! It probably is
+manufactured on the mountain-top for the occasion, and starts
+from there. It is a pretty regular wind, in the summer time. Its
+office hours are from two in the afternoon till two the next
+morning; and anybody venturing abroad during those twelve hours
+needs to allow for the wind or he will bring up a mile or two to
+leeward of the point he is aiming at. And yet the first complaint
+a Washoe visitor to San Francisco makes, is that the sea winds
+blow so, there! There is a good deal of human nature in that.</p>
+
+<p>We found the state palace of the Governor of Nevada Territory
+to consist of a white frame one-story house with two small rooms
+in it and a stanchion supported shed in front&mdash;for grandeur&mdash;it
+compelled the respect of the citizen and inspired the Indians
+with awe. The newly arrived Chief and Associate Justices of the
+Territory, and other machinery of the government, were domiciled
+with less splendor. They were boarding around privately, and had
+their offices in their bedrooms.</p>
+
+<a name="161"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="161.jpg (63K)" src="images/161.jpg" height="423" width="581">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The Secretary and I took quarters in the "ranch" of a worthy
+French lady by the name of Bridget O'Flannigan, a camp follower
+of his Excellency the Governor. She had known him in his
+prosperity as commander-in-chief of the Metropolitan Police of
+New York, and she would not desert him in his adversity as
+Governor of Nevada.</p>
+
+<p>Our room was on the lower floor, facing the plaza, and when we
+had got our bed, a small table, two chairs, the government
+fire-proof safe, and the Unabridged Dictionary into it, there was
+still room enough left for a visitor&mdash;may be two, but not without
+straining the walls. But the walls could stand it&mdash;at least the
+partitions could, for they consisted simply of one thickness of
+white "cotton domestic" stretched from corner to corner of the
+room. This was the rule in Carson&mdash;any other kind of partition
+was the rare exception. And if you stood in a dark room and your
+neighbors in the next had lights, the shadows on your canvas told
+queer secrets sometimes! Very often these partitions were made of
+old flour sacks basted together; and then the difference between
+the common herd and the aristocracy was, that the common herd had
+unornamented sacks, while the walls of the aristocrat were
+overpowering with rudimental fresco&mdash;i.e., red and blue mill
+brands on the flour sacks.</p>
+
+<a name="162"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="162.jpg (42K)" src="images/162.jpg" height="419" width="402">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Occasionally, also, the better classes embellished their
+canvas by pasting pictures from Harper's Weekly on them. In many
+cases, too, the wealthy and the cultured rose to spittoons and
+other evidences of a sumptuous and luxurious taste. [Washoe
+people take a joke so hard that I must explain that the above
+description was only the rule; there were many honorable
+exceptions in Carson&mdash;plastered ceilings and houses that had
+considerable furniture in them.&mdash;M. T.]</p>
+
+<p>We had a carpet and a genuine queen's-ware washbowl.
+Consequently we were hated without reserve by the other tenants
+of the O'Flannigan "ranch." When we added a painted oilcloth
+window curtain, we simply took our lives into our own hands. To
+prevent bloodshed I removed up stairs and took up quarters with
+the untitled plebeians in one of the fourteen white pine
+cot-bedsteads that stood in two long ranks in the one sole room
+of which the second story consisted.</p>
+
+<p>It was a jolly company, the fourteen. They were principally
+voluntary camp-followers of the Governor, who had joined his
+retinue by their own election at New York and San Francisco and
+came along, feeling that in the scuffle for little territorial
+crumbs and offices they could not make their condition more
+precarious than it was, and might reasonably expect to make it
+better. They were popularly known as the "Irish Brigade," though
+there were only four or five Irishmen among all the Governor's
+retainers.</p>
+
+<a name="163"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="163.jpg (95K)" src="images/163.jpg" height="482" width="588">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>His good-natured Excellency was much annoyed at the gossip his
+henchmen created&mdash;especially when there arose a rumor that they
+were paid assassins of his, brought along to quietly reduce the
+democratic vote when desirable!</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. O'Flannigan was boarding and lodging them at ten dollars
+a week apiece, and they were cheerfully giving their notes for
+it. They were perfectly satisfied, but Bridget presently found
+that notes that could not be discounted were but a feeble
+constitution for a Carson boarding- house. So she began to harry
+the Governor to find employment for the "Brigade." Her
+importunities and theirs together drove him to a gentle
+desperation at last, and he finally summoned the Brigade to the
+presence. Then, said he:</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen, I have planned a lucrative and useful service for
+you&mdash;a service which will provide you with recreation amid noble
+landscapes, and afford you never ceasing opportunities for
+enriching your minds by observation and study. I want you to
+survey a railroad from Carson City westward to a certain point!
+When the legislature meets I will have the necessary bill passed
+and the remuneration arranged."</p>
+
+<p>"What, a railroad over the Sierra Nevada Mountains?"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, then, survey it eastward to a certain point!"</p>
+
+<p>He converted them into surveyors, chain-bearers and so on, and
+turned them loose in the desert. It was "recreation" with a
+vengeance! Recreation on foot, lugging chains through sand and
+sage-brush, under a sultry sun and among cattle bones, cayotes
+and tarantulas.</p>
+
+<a name="164"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="164.jpg (15K)" src="images/164.jpg" height="247" width="225">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"Romantic adventure" could go no further. They surveyed very
+slowly, very deliberately, very carefully. They returned every
+night during the first week, dusty, footsore, tired, and hungry,
+but very jolly. They brought in great store of prodigious hairy
+spiders&mdash;tarantulas&mdash;and imprisoned them in covered tumblers up
+stairs in the "ranch." After the first week, they had to camp on
+the field, for they were getting well eastward. They made a good
+many inquiries as to the location of that indefinite "certain
+point," but got no information. At last, to a peculiarly urgent
+inquiry of "How far eastward?" Governor Nye telegraphed back:</p>
+
+<p>"To the Atlantic Ocean, blast you!&mdash;and then bridge it and go
+on!"</p>
+
+<p>This brought back the dusty toilers, who sent in a report and
+ceased from their labors. The Governor was always comfortable
+about it; he said Mrs. O'Flannigan would hold him for the
+Brigade's board anyhow, and he intended to get what entertainment
+he could out of the boys; he said, with his old-time pleasant
+twinkle, that he meant to survey them into Utah and then
+telegraph Brigham to hang them for trespass!</p>
+
+<p>The surveyors brought back more tarantulas with them, and so
+we had quite a menagerie arranged along the shelves of the room.
+Some of these spiders could straddle over a common saucer with
+their hairy, muscular legs, and when their feelings were hurt, or
+their dignity offended, they were the wickedest-looking
+desperadoes the animal world can furnish. If their glass
+prison-houses were touched ever so lightly they were up and
+spoiling for a fight in a minute. Starchy?&mdash;proud? Indeed, they
+would take up a straw and pick their teeth like a member of
+Congress. There was as usual a furious "zephyr" blowing the first
+night of the brigade's return, and about midnight the roof of an
+adjoining stable blew off, and a corner of it came crashing
+through the side of our ranch. There was a simultaneous
+awakening, and a tumultuous muster of the brigade in the dark,
+and a general tumbling and sprawling over each other in the
+narrow aisle between the bedrows. In the midst of the turmoil,
+Bob H&mdash;&mdash;sprung up out of a sound sleep, and knocked down a
+shelf with his head. Instantly he shouted:</p>
+
+<p>"Turn out, boys&mdash;the tarantulas is loose!"</p>
+
+<a name="165"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="165.jpg (15K)" src="images/165.jpg" height="174" width="357">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>No warning ever sounded so dreadful. Nobody tried, any longer,
+to leave the room, lest he might step on a tarantula. Every man
+groped for a trunk or a bed, and jumped on it. Then followed the
+strangest silence&mdash;a silence of grisly suspense it was,
+too&mdash;waiting, expectancy, fear. It was as dark as pitch, and one
+had to imagine the spectacle of those fourteen scant-clad men
+roosting gingerly on trunks and beds, for not a thing could be
+seen. Then came occasional little interruptions of the silence,
+and one could recognize a man and tell his locality by his voice,
+or locate any other sound a sufferer made by his gropings or
+changes of position. The occasional voices were not given to much
+speaking&mdash;you simply heard a gentle ejaculation of "Ow!" followed
+by a solid thump, and you knew the gentleman had felt a hairy
+blanket or something touch his bare skin and had skipped from a
+bed to the floor. Another silence. Presently you would hear a
+gasping voice say:</p>
+
+<p>"Su&mdash;su&mdash;something's crawling up the back of my neck!"</p>
+
+<p>Every now and then you could hear a little subdued scramble
+and a sorrowful "O Lord!" and then you knew that somebody was
+getting away from something he took for a tarantula, and not
+losing any time about it, either. Directly a voice in the corner
+rang out wild and clear:</p>
+
+<p>"I've got him! I've got him!" [Pause, and probable change of
+circumstances.] "No, he's got me! Oh, ain't they never going to
+fetch a lantern!"</p>
+
+<a name="166"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="166.jpg (89K)" src="images/166.jpg" height="481" width="610">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The lantern came at that moment, in the hands of Mrs.
+O'Flannigan, whose anxiety to know the amount of damage done by
+the assaulting roof had not prevented her waiting a judicious
+interval, after getting out of bed and lighting up, to see if the
+wind was done, now, up stairs, or had a larger contract.</p>
+
+<p>The landscape presented when the lantern flashed into the room
+was picturesque, and might have been funny to some people, but
+was not to us. Although we were perched so strangely upon boxes,
+trunks and beds, and so strangely attired, too, we were too
+earnestly distressed and too genuinely miserable to see any fun
+about it, and there was not the semblance of a smile anywhere
+visible. I know I am not capable of suffering more than I did
+during those few minutes of suspense in the dark, surrounded by
+those creeping, bloody-minded tarantulas. I had skipped from bed
+to bed and from box to box in a cold agony, and every time I
+touched anything that was furzy I fancied I felt the fangs. I had
+rather go to war than live that episode over again. Nobody was
+hurt. The man who thought a tarantula had "got him" was
+mistaken&mdash;only a crack in a box had caught his finger. Not one of
+those escaped tarantulas was ever seen again. There were ten or
+twelve of them. We took candles and hunted the place high and low
+for them, but with no success. Did we go back to bed then? We did
+nothing of the kind. Money could not have persuaded us to do it.
+We sat up the rest of the night playing cribbage and keeping a
+sharp lookout for the enemy.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch22"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>It was the end of August, and the skies were cloudless and the
+weather superb. In two or three weeks I had grown wonderfully
+fascinated with the curious new country and concluded to put off
+my return to "the States" awhile. I had grown well accustomed to
+wearing a damaged slouch hat, blue woolen shirt, and pants
+crammed into boot-tops, and gloried in the absence of coat, vest
+and braces. I felt rowdyish and "bully," (as the historian
+Josephus phrases it, in his fine chapter upon the destruction of
+the Temple). It seemed to me that nothing could be so fine and so
+romantic. I had become an officer of the government, but that was
+for mere sublimity. The office was an unique sinecure. I had
+nothing to do and no salary. I was private Secretary to his
+majesty the Secretary and there was not yet writing enough for
+two of us. So Johnny K&mdash;&mdash;and I devoted our time to amusement.
+He was the young son of an Ohio nabob and was out there for
+recreation. He got it. We had heard a world of talk about the
+marvellous beauty of Lake Tahoe, and finally curiosity drove us
+thither to see it. Three or four members of the Brigade had been
+there and located some timber lands on its shores and stored up a
+quantity of provisions in their camp. We strapped a couple of
+blankets on our shoulders and took an axe apiece and started&mdash;for
+we intended to take up a wood ranch or so ourselves and become
+wealthy. We were on foot. The reader will find it advantageous to
+go horseback. We were told that the distance was eleven miles. We
+tramped a long time on level ground, and then toiled laboriously
+up a mountain about a thousand miles high and looked over. No
+lake there. We descended on the other side, crossed the valley
+and toiled up another mountain three or four thousand miles high,
+apparently, and looked over again. No lake yet. We sat down tired
+and perspiring, and hired a couple of Chinamen to curse those
+people who had beguiled us. Thus refreshed, we presently resumed
+the march with renewed vigor and determination. We plodded on,
+two or three hours longer, and at last the Lake burst upon us&mdash;a
+noble sheet of blue water lifted six thousand three hundred feet
+above the level of the sea, and walled in by a rim of snow-clad
+mountain peaks that towered aloft full three thousand feet higher
+still! It was a vast oval, and one would have to use up eighty or
+a hundred good miles in traveling around it. As it lay there with
+the shadows of the mountains brilliantly photographed upon its
+still surface I thought it must surely be the fairest picture the
+whole earth affords.</p>
+
+<a name="169"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="169.jpg (80K)" src="images/169.jpg" height="502" width="586">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We found the small skiff belonging to the Brigade boys, and
+without loss of time set out across a deep bend of the lake
+toward the landmarks that signified the locality of the camp. I
+got Johnny to row&mdash;not because I mind exertion myself, but
+because it makes me sick to ride backwards when I am at work. But
+I steered. A three-mile pull brought us to the camp just as the
+night fell, and we stepped ashore very tired and wolfishly
+hungry. In a "cache" among the rocks we found the provisions and
+the cooking utensils, and then, all fatigued as I was, I sat down
+on a boulder and superintended while Johnny gathered wood and
+cooked supper. Many a man who had gone through what I had, would
+have wanted to rest.</p>
+
+<p>It was a delicious supper&mdash;hot bread, fried bacon, and black
+coffee. It was a delicious solitude we were in, too. Three miles
+away was a saw- mill and some workmen, but there were not fifteen
+other human beings throughout the wide circumference of the lake.
+As the darkness closed down and the stars came out and spangled
+the great mirror with jewels, we smoked meditatively in the
+solemn hush and forgot our troubles and our pains. In due time we
+spread our blankets in the warm sand between two large boulders
+and soon feel asleep, careless of the procession of ants that
+passed in through rents in our clothing and explored our persons.
+Nothing could disturb the sleep that fettered us, for it had been
+fairly earned, and if our consciences had any sins on them they
+had to adjourn court for that night, any way. The wind rose just
+as we were losing consciousness, and we were lulled to sleep by
+the beating of the surf upon the shore.</p>
+
+<p>It is always very cold on that lake shore in the night, but we
+had plenty of blankets and were warm enough. We never moved a
+muscle all night, but waked at early dawn in the original
+positions, and got up at once, thoroughly refreshed, free from
+soreness, and brim full of friskiness. There is no end of
+wholesome medicine in such an experience. That morning we could
+have whipped ten such people as we were the day before&mdash;sick
+ones at any rate. But the world is slow, and people will go to
+"water cures" and "movement cures" and to foreign lands for
+health. Three months of camp life on Lake Tahoe would restore an
+Egyptian mummy to his pristine vigor, and give him an appetite
+like an alligator. I do not mean the oldest and driest mummies,
+of course, but the fresher ones. The air up there in the clouds
+is very pure and fine, bracing and delicious. And why shouldn't
+it be?&mdash;it is the same the angels breathe. I think that hardly
+any amount of fatigue can be gathered together that a man cannot
+sleep off in one night on the sand by its side. Not under a roof,
+but under the sky; it seldom or never rains there in the summer
+time. I know a man who went there to die. But he made a failure
+of it. He was a skeleton when he came, and could barely stand. He
+had no appetite, and did nothing but read tracts and reflect on
+the future. Three months later he was sleeping out of doors
+regularly, eating all he could hold, three times a day, and
+chasing game over mountains three thousand feet high for
+recreation. And he was a skeleton no longer, but weighed part of
+a ton. This is no fancy sketch, but the truth. His disease was
+consumption. I confidently commend his experience to other
+skeletons.</p>
+
+
+<center>
+<table summary="restored">
+<tr><td>
+<a name="170"></a>
+<img alt="170.jpg (19K)" src="images/170.jpg" height="360" width="211">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+
+<td>
+<a name="171"></a>
+<br><br>
+<img alt="171.jpg (34K)" src="images/171.jpg" height="450" width="274">
+
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+<br><br>
+</center>
+
+<p>I superintended again, and as soon as we had eaten breakfast
+we got in the boat and skirted along the lake shore about three
+miles and disembarked. We liked the appearance of the place, and
+so we claimed some three hundred acres of it and stuck our
+"notices" on a tree. It was yellow pine timber land&mdash;a dense
+forest of trees a hundred feet high and from one to five feet
+through at the butt. It was necessary to fence our property or we
+could not hold it. That is to say, it was necessary to cut down
+trees here and there and make them fall in such a way as to form
+a sort of enclosure (with pretty wide gaps in it). We cut down
+three trees apiece, and found it such heart-breaking work that we
+decided to "rest our case" on those; if they held the property,
+well and good; if they didn't, let the property spill out through
+the gaps and go; it was no use to work ourselves to death merely
+to save a few acres of land. Next day we came back to build a
+house&mdash;for a house was also necessary, in order to hold the
+property. </p>
+
+
+<a name="172"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="172.jpg (142K)" src="images/172.jpg" height="836" width="588">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<p>We decided to build a substantial log- house and excite
+the envy of the Brigade boys; but by the time we had cut and
+trimmed the first log it seemed unnecessary to be so elaborate,
+and so we concluded to build it of saplings. However, two
+saplings, duly cut and trimmed, compelled recognition of the fact
+that a still modester architecture would satisfy the law, and so
+we concluded to build a "brush" house. We devoted the next day to
+this work, but we did so much "sitting around" and discussing,
+that by the middle of the afternoon we had achieved only a
+half-way sort of affair which one of us had to watch while the
+other cut brush, lest if both turned our backs we might not be
+able to find it again, it had such a strong family resemblance to
+the surrounding vegetation. But we were satisfied with it.</p>
+
+<p>We were land owners now, duly seized and possessed, and within
+the protection of the law. Therefore we decided to take up our
+residence on our own domain and enjoy that large sense of
+independence which only such an experience can bring. Late the
+next afternoon, after a good long rest, we sailed away from the
+Brigade camp with all the provisions and cooking utensils we
+could carry off&mdash;borrow is the more accurate word&mdash;and just as
+the night was falling we beached the boat at our own landing.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch23"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>If there is any life that is happier than the life we led on
+our timber ranch for the next two or three weeks, it must be a
+sort of life which I have not read of in books or experienced in
+person. We did not see a human being but ourselves during the
+time, or hear any sounds but those that were made by the wind and
+the waves, the sighing of the pines, and now and then the far-off
+thunder of an avalanche. The forest about us was dense and cool,
+the sky above us was cloudless and brilliant with sunshine, the
+broad lake before us was glassy and clear, or rippled and breezy,
+or black and storm-tossed, according to Nature's mood; and its
+circling border of mountain domes, clothed with forests, scarred
+with land-slides, cloven by canons and valleys, and helmeted with
+glittering snow, fitly framed and finished the noble picture. The
+view was always fascinating, bewitching, entrancing. The eye was
+never tired of gazing, night or day, in calm or storm; it
+suffered but one grief, and that was that it could not look
+always, but must close sometimes in sleep.</p>
+
+<p>We slept in the sand close to the water's edge, between two
+protecting boulders, which took care of the stormy night-winds
+for us. We never took any paregoric to make us sleep. At the
+first break of dawn we were always up and running foot-races to
+tone down excess of physical vigor and exuberance of spirits.
+That is, Johnny was&mdash;but I held his hat. While smoking the pipe
+of peace after breakfast we watched the sentinel peaks put on the
+glory of the sun, and followed the conquering light as it swept
+down among the shadows, and set the captive crags and forests
+free. We watched the tinted pictures grow and brighten upon the
+water till every little detail of forest, precipice and pinnacle
+was wrought in and finished, and the miracle of the enchanter
+complete. Then to "business."</p>
+
+<a name="174"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="174.jpg (84K)" src="images/174.jpg" height="540" width="601">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>That is, drifting around in the boat. We were on the north
+shore. There, the rocks on the bottom are sometimes gray,
+sometimes white. This gives the marvelous transparency of the
+water a fuller advantage than it has elsewhere on the lake. We
+usually pushed out a hundred yards or so from shore, and then lay
+down on the thwarts, in the sun, and let the boat drift by the
+hour whither it would. We seldom talked. It interrupted the
+Sabbath stillness, and marred the dreams the luxurious rest and
+indolence brought. The shore all along was indented with deep,
+curved bays and coves, bordered by narrow sand-beaches; and where
+the sand ended, the steep mountain-sides rose right up aloft into
+space&mdash;rose up like a vast wall a little out of the
+perpendicular, and thickly wooded with tall pines.</p>
+
+<p>So singularly clear was the water, that where it was only
+twenty or thirty feet deep the bottom was so perfectly distinct
+that the boat seemed floating in the air! Yes, where it was even
+eighty feet deep. Every little pebble was distinct, every
+speckled trout, every hand's- breadth of sand. Often, as we lay
+on our faces, a granite boulder, as large as a village church,
+would start out of the bottom apparently, and seem climbing up
+rapidly to the surface, till presently it threatened to touch our
+faces, and we could not resist the impulse to seize an oar and
+avert the danger. But the boat would float on, and the boulder
+descend again, and then we could see that when we had been
+exactly above it, it must still have been twenty or thirty feet
+below the surface. Down through the transparency of these great
+depths, the water was not merely transparent, but dazzlingly,
+brilliantly so. All objects seen through it had a bright, strong
+vividness, not only of outline, but of every minute detail, which
+they would not have had when seen simply through the same depth
+of atmosphere. So empty and airy did all spaces seem below us,
+and so strong was the sense of floating high aloft in
+mid-nothingness, that we called these boat-excursions
+"balloon-voyages."</p>
+
+<p>We fished a good deal, but we did not average one fish a week.
+We could see trout by the thousand winging about in the emptiness
+under us, or sleeping in shoals on the bottom, but they would not
+bite&mdash;they could see the line too plainly, perhaps. We frequently
+selected the trout we wanted, and rested the bait patiently and
+persistently on the end of his nose at a depth of eighty feet,
+but he would only shake it off with an annoyed manner, and shift
+his position.</p>
+
+<p>We bathed occasionally, but the water was rather chilly, for
+all it looked so sunny. Sometimes we rowed out to the "blue
+water," a mile or two from shore. It was as dead blue as indigo
+there, because of the immense depth. By official measurement the
+lake in its centre is one thousand five hundred and twenty-five
+feet deep!</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, on lazy afternoons, we lolled on the sand in camp,
+and smoked pipes and read some old well-worn novels. At night, by
+the camp-fire, we played euchre and seven-up to strengthen the
+mind&mdash;and played them with cards so greasy and defaced that only
+a whole summer's acquaintance with them could enable the student
+to tell the ace of clubs from the jack of diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>We never slept in our "house." It never recurred to us, for
+one thing; and besides, it was built to hold the ground, and that
+was enough. We did not wish to strain it.</p>
+
+<p>By and by our provisions began to run short, and we went back
+to the old camp and laid in a new supply. We were gone all day,
+and reached home again about night-fall, pretty tired and hungry.
+While Johnny was carrying the main bulk of the provisions up to
+our "house" for future use, I took the loaf of bread, some slices
+of bacon, and the coffee-pot, ashore, set them down by a tree,
+lit a fire, and went back to the boat to get the frying-pan.
+While I was at this, I heard a shout from Johnny, and looking up
+I saw that my fire was galloping all over the premises! Johnny
+was on the other side of it. He had to run through the flames to
+get to the lake shore, and then we stood helpless and watched the
+devastation.</p>
+
+<p>The ground was deeply carpeted with dry pine-needles, and the
+fire touched them off as if they were gunpowder. It was wonderful
+to see with what fierce speed the tall sheet of flame traveled!
+My coffee-pot was gone, and everything with it. In a minute and a
+half the fire seized upon a dense growth of dry manzanita
+chapparal six or eight feet high, and then the roaring and
+popping and crackling was something terrific. We were driven to
+the boat by the intense heat, and there we remained,
+spell-bound.</p>
+
+<a name="176"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="176.jpg (161K)" src="images/176.jpg" height="911" width="564">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Within half an hour all before us was a tossing, blinding
+tempest of flame! It went surging up adjacent ridges&mdash;surmounted
+them and disappeared in the canons beyond&mdash;burst into view upon
+higher and farther ridges, presently&mdash;shed a grander illumination
+abroad, and dove again&mdash;flamed out again, directly, higher and
+still higher up the mountain-side- -threw out skirmishing parties
+of fire here and there, and sent them trailing their crimson
+spirals away among remote ramparts and ribs and gorges, till as
+far as the eye could reach the lofty mountain-fronts were webbed
+as it were with a tangled network of red lava streams. Away
+across the water the crags and domes were lit with a ruddy glare,
+and the firmament above was a reflected hell!</p>
+
+<p>Every feature of the spectacle was repeated in the glowing
+mirror of the lake! Both pictures were sublime, both were
+beautiful; but that in the lake had a bewildering richness about
+it that enchanted the eye and held it with the stronger
+fascination.</p>
+
+<p>We sat absorbed and motionless through four long hours. We
+never thought of supper, and never felt fatigue. But at eleven
+o'clock the conflagration had traveled beyond our range of
+vision, and then darkness stole down upon the landscape
+again.</p>
+
+<p>Hunger asserted itself now, but there was nothing to eat. The
+provisions were all cooked, no doubt, but we did not go to see.
+We were homeless wanderers again, without any property. Our fence
+was gone, our house burned down; no insurance. Our pine forest
+was well scorched, the dead trees all burned up, and our broad
+acres of manzanita swept away. Our blankets were on our usual
+sand-bed, however, and so we lay down and went to sleep. The next
+morning we started back to the old camp, but while out a long way
+from shore, so great a storm came up that we dared not try to
+land. So I baled out the seas we shipped, and Johnny pulled
+heavily through the billows till we had reached a point three or
+four miles beyond the camp. The storm was increasing, and it
+became evident that it was better to take the hazard of beaching
+the boat than go down in a hundred fathoms of water; so we ran
+in, with tall white-caps following, and I sat down in the
+stern-sheets and pointed her head-on to the shore. The instant
+the bow struck, a wave came over the stern that washed crew and
+cargo ashore, and saved a deal of trouble. We shivered in the lee
+of a boulder all the rest of the day, and froze all the night
+through. In the morning the tempest had gone down, and we paddled
+down to the camp without any unnecessary delay. We were so
+starved that we ate up the rest of the Brigade's provisions, and
+then set out to Carson to tell them about it and ask their
+forgiveness. It was accorded, upon payment of damages.</p>
+
+<p>We made many trips to the lake after that, and had many a
+hair-breadth escape and blood-curdling adventure which will never
+be recorded in any history.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch24"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>I resolved to have a horse to ride. I had never seen such
+wild, free, magnificent horsemanship outside of a circus as these
+picturesquely-clad Mexicans, Californians and Mexicanized
+Americans displayed in Carson streets every day. How they rode!
+Leaning just gently forward out of the perpendicular, easy and
+nonchalant, with broad slouch-hat brim blown square up in front,
+and long riata swinging above the head, they swept through the
+town like the wind! The next minute they were only a sailing puff
+of dust on the far desert. If they trotted, they sat up gallantly
+and gracefully, and seemed part of the horse; did not go
+jiggering up and down after the silly Miss-Nancy fashion of the
+riding-schools. I had quickly learned to tell a horse from a cow,
+and was full of anxiety to learn more. I was resolved to buy a
+horse.</p>
+
+<p>While the thought was rankling in my mind, the auctioneer came
+skurrying through the plaza on a black beast that had as many
+humps and corners on him as a dromedary, and was necessarily
+uncomely; but he was "going, going, at twenty-two!&mdash;horse, saddle
+and bridle at twenty-two dollars, gentlemen!" and I could hardly
+resist.</p>
+
+<p>A man whom I did not know (he turned out to be the
+auctioneer's brother) noticed the wistful look in my eye, and
+observed that that was a very remarkable horse to be going at
+such a price; and added that the saddle alone was worth the
+money. It was a Spanish saddle, with ponderous 'tapidaros', and
+furnished with the ungainly sole-leather covering with the
+unspellable name. I said I had half a notion to bid. Then this
+keen-eyed person appeared to me to be "taking my measure"; but I
+dismissed the suspicion when he spoke, for his manner was full of
+guileless candor and truthfulness. Said he:</p>
+
+<p>"I know that horse&mdash;know him well. You are a stranger, I take
+it, and so you might think he was an American horse, maybe, but I
+assure you he is not. He is nothing of the kind; but&mdash;excuse my
+speaking in a low voice, other people being near&mdash;he is, without
+the shadow of a doubt, a Genuine Mexican Plug!"</p>
+
+<a name="179"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="179.jpg (96K)" src="images/179.jpg" height="534" width="569">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I did not know what a Genuine Mexican Plug was, but there was
+something about this man's way of saying it, that made me swear
+inwardly that I would own a Genuine Mexican Plug, or die.</p>
+
+<p>"Has he any other&mdash;er&mdash;advantages?" I inquired, suppressing
+what eagerness I could.</p>
+
+<p>He hooked his forefinger in the pocket of my army-shirt, led
+me to one side, and breathed in my ear impressively these
+words:</p>
+
+<p>"He can out-buck anything in America!"</p>
+
+<p>"Going, going, going&mdash;at twent&mdash;ty&mdash;four dollars and a half,
+gen&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"Twenty-seven!" I shouted, in a frenzy.</p>
+
+<p>"And sold!" said the auctioneer, and passed over the Genuine
+Mexican Plug to me.</p>
+
+<p>I could scarcely contain my exultation. I paid the money, and
+put the animal in a neighboring livery-stable to dine and rest
+himself.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I brought the creature into the plaza, and
+certain citizens held him by the head, and others by the tail,
+while I mounted him. As soon as they let go, he placed all his
+feet in a bunch together, lowered his back, and then suddenly
+arched it upward, and shot me straight into the air a matter of
+three or four feet! I came as straight down again, lit in the
+saddle, went instantly up again, came down almost on the high
+pommel, shot up again, and came down on the horse's neck&mdash;all in
+the space of three or four seconds. Then he rose and stood almost
+straight up on his hind feet, and I, clasping his lean neck
+desperately, slid back into the saddle and held on. He came down,
+and immediately hoisted his heels into the air, delivering a
+vicious kick at the sky, and stood on his forefeet. And then down
+he came once more, and began the original exercise of shooting me
+straight up again. The third time I went up I heard a stranger
+say:</p>
+
+<a name="180"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="180.jpg (50K)" src="images/180.jpg" height="499" width="332">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>"Oh, don't he buck, though!"</p>
+
+<p>While I was up, somebody struck the horse a sounding thwack
+with a leathern strap, and when I arrived again the Genuine
+Mexican Plug was not there. A California youth chased him up and
+caught him, and asked if he might have a ride. I granted him that
+luxury. He mounted the Genuine, got lifted into the air once, but
+sent his spurs home as he descended, and the horse darted away
+like a telegram. He soared over three fences like a bird, and
+disappeared down the road toward the Washoe Valley.</p>
+
+<p>I sat down on a stone, with a sigh, and by a natural impulse
+one of my hands sought my forehead, and the other the base of my
+stomach. I believe I never appreciated, till then, the poverty of
+the human machinery&mdash;for I still needed a hand or two to place
+elsewhere. Pen cannot describe how I was jolted up. Imagination
+cannot conceive how disjointed I was&mdash;how internally, externally
+and universally I was unsettled, mixed up and ruptured. There was
+a sympathetic crowd around me, though.</p>
+
+<a name="181"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="181.jpg (38K)" src="images/181.jpg" height="348" width="336">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>One elderly-looking comforter said:</p>
+
+<p>"Stranger, you've been taken in. Everybody in this camp knows
+that horse. Any child, any Injun, could have told you that he'd
+buck; he is the very worst devil to buck on the continent of
+America. You hear me. I'm Curry. Old Curry. Old Abe Curry. And
+moreover, he is a simon-pure, out-and-out, genuine d&mdash;d Mexican
+plug, and an uncommon mean one at that, too. Why, you turnip, if
+you had laid low and kept dark, there's chances to buy an
+American horse for mighty little more than you paid for that
+bloody old foreign relic."</p>
+
+<p>I gave no sign; but I made up my mind that if the auctioneer's
+brother's funeral took place while I was in the Territory I would
+postpone all other recreations and attend it.</p>
+
+<p>After a gallop of sixteen miles the Californian youth and the
+Genuine Mexican Plug came tearing into town again, shedding
+foam-flakes like the spume-spray that drives before a typhoon,
+and, with one final skip over a wheelbarrow and a Chinaman, cast
+anchor in front of the "ranch."</p>
+
+<a name="182"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="182.jpg (45K)" src="images/182.jpg" height="334" width="471">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Such panting and blowing! Such spreading and contracting of
+the red equine nostrils, and glaring of the wild equine eye! But
+was the imperial beast subjugated? Indeed he was not.</p>
+
+<p>His lordship the Speaker of the House thought he was, and
+mounted him to go down to the Capitol; but the first dash the
+creature made was over a pile of telegraph poles half as high as
+a church; and his time to the Capitol&mdash;one mile and three
+quarters&mdash;remains unbeaten to this day. But then he took an
+advantage&mdash;he left out the mile, and only did the three quarters.
+That is to say, he made a straight cut across lots, preferring
+fences and ditches to a crooked road; and when the Speaker got to
+the Capitol he said he had been in the air so much he felt as if
+he had made the trip on a comet.</p>
+
+<a name="183"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="183.jpg (50K)" src="images/183.jpg" height="493" width="353">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>In the evening the Speaker came home afoot for exercise, and
+got the Genuine towed back behind a quartz wagon. The next day I
+loaned the animal to the Clerk of the House to go down to the
+Dana silver mine, six miles, and he walked back for exercise, and
+got the horse towed. Everybody I loaned him to always walked
+back; they never could get enough exercise any other way.</p>
+
+<p>Still, I continued to loan him to anybody who was willing to
+borrow him, my idea being to get him crippled, and throw him on
+the borrower's hands, or killed, and make the borrower pay for
+him. But somehow nothing ever happened to him. He took chances
+that no other horse ever took and survived, but he always came
+out safe. It was his daily habit to try experiments that had
+always before been considered impossible, but he always got
+through. Sometimes he miscalculated a little, and did not get his
+rider through intact, but he always got through himself. Of
+course I had tried to sell him; but that was a stretch of
+simplicity which met with little sympathy. The auctioneer stormed
+up and down the streets on him for four days, dispersing the
+populace, interrupting business, and destroying children, and
+never got a bid&mdash;at least never any but the eighteen-dollar one
+he hired a notoriously substanceless bummer to make. The people
+only smiled pleasantly, and restrained their desire to buy, if
+they had any. Then the auctioneer brought in his bill, and I
+withdrew the horse from the market. We tried to trade him off at
+private vendue next, offering him at a sacrifice for second-hand
+tombstones, old iron, temperance tracts&mdash;any kind of property.
+But holders were stiff, and we retired from the market again. I
+never tried to ride the horse any more. Walking was good enough
+exercise for a man like me, that had nothing the matter with him
+except ruptures, internal injuries, and such things. Finally I
+tried to give him away. But it was a failure. Parties said
+earthquakes were handy enough on the Pacific coast&mdash;they did not
+wish to own one. As a last resort I offered him to the Governor
+for the use of the "Brigade." His face lit up eagerly at first,
+but toned down again, and he said the thing would be too
+palpable.</p>
+
+<p>Just then the livery stable man brought in his bill for six
+weeks' keeping&mdash;stall-room for the horse, fifteen dollars; hay
+for the horse, two hundred and fifty! The Genuine Mexican Plug
+had eaten a ton of the article, and the man said he would have
+eaten a hundred if he had let him.</p>
+
+<p>I will remark here, in all seriousness, that the regular price
+of hay during that year and a part of the next was really two
+hundred and fifty dollars a ton. During a part of the previous
+year it had sold at five hundred a ton, in gold, and during the
+winter before that there was such scarcity of the article that in
+several instances small quantities had brought eight hundred
+dollars a ton in coin! The consequence might be guessed without
+my telling it: peopled turned their stock loose to starve, and
+before the spring arrived Carson and Eagle valleys were almost
+literally carpeted with their carcases! Any old settler there
+will verify these statements.</p>
+
+<p>I managed to pay the livery bill, and that same day I gave the
+Genuine Mexican Plug to a passing Arkansas emigrant whom fortune
+delivered into my hand. If this ever meets his eye, he will
+doubtless remember the donation.</p>
+
+<p>Now whoever has had the luck to ride a real Mexican plug will
+recognize the animal depicted in this chapter, and hardly
+consider him exaggerated&mdash;but the uninitiated will feel
+justified in regarding his portrait as a fancy sketch,
+perhaps.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch25"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Originally, Nevada was a part of Utah and was called Carson
+county; and a pretty large county it was, too. Certain of its
+valleys produced no end of hay, and this attracted small colonies
+of Mormon stock-raisers and farmers to them. A few orthodox
+Americans straggled in from California, but no love was lost
+between the two classes of colonists. There was little or no
+friendly intercourse; each party staid to itself. The Mormons
+were largely in the majority, and had the additional advantage of
+being peculiarly under the protection of the Mormon government of
+the Territory. Therefore they could afford to be distant, and
+even peremptory toward their neighbors. One of the traditions of
+Carson Valley illustrates the condition of things that prevailed
+at the time I speak of. The hired girl of one of the American
+families was Irish, and a Catholic; yet it was noted with
+surprise that she was the only person outside of the Mormon ring
+who could get favors from the Mormons. She asked kindnesses of
+them often, and always got them. It was a mystery to everybody.
+But one day as she was passing out at the door, a large bowie
+knife dropped from under her apron, and when her mistress asked
+for an explanation she observed that she was going out to "borry
+a wash-tub from the Mormons!"</p>
+
+<a name="186"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="186.jpg (88K)" src="images/186.jpg" height="613" width="424">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>In 1858 silver lodes were discovered in "Carson County," and
+then the aspect of things changed. Californians began to flock
+in, and the American element was soon in the majority. Allegiance
+to Brigham Young and Utah was renounced, and a temporary
+territorial government for "Washoe" was instituted by the
+citizens. Governor Roop was the first and only chief magistrate
+of it. In due course of time Congress passed a bill to organize
+"Nevada Territory," and President Lincoln sent out Governor Nye
+to supplant Roop.</p>
+
+<p>At this time the population of the Territory was about twelve
+or fifteen thousand, and rapidly increasing. Silver mines were
+being vigorously developed and silver mills erected. Business of
+all kinds was active and prosperous and growing more so day by
+day.</p>
+
+<p>The people were glad to have a legitimately constituted
+government, but did not particularly enjoy having strangers from
+distant States put in authority over them&mdash;a sentiment that was
+natural enough. They thought the officials should have been
+chosen from among themselves from among prominent citizens who
+had earned a right to such promotion, and who would be in
+sympathy with the populace and likewise thoroughly acquainted
+with the needs of the Territory. They were right in viewing the
+matter thus, without doubt. The new officers were "emigrants,"
+and that was no title to anybody's affection or admiration
+either.</p>
+
+<p>The new government was received with considerable coolness. It
+was not only a foreign intruder, but a poor one. It was not even
+worth plucking&mdash;except by the smallest of small fry
+office-seekers and such. Everybody knew that Congress had
+appropriated only twenty thousand dollars a year in greenbacks
+for its support&mdash;about money enough to run a quartz mill a month.
+And everybody knew, also, that the first year's money was still
+in Washington, and that the getting hold of it would be a tedious
+and difficult process. Carson City was too wary and too wise to
+open up a credit account with the imported bantling with anything
+like indecent haste.</p>
+
+<p>There is something solemnly funny about the struggles of a
+new-born Territorial government to get a start in this world.
+Ours had a trying time of it. The Organic Act and the
+"instructions" from the State Department commanded that a
+legislature should be elected at such-and- such a time, and its
+sittings inaugurated at such-and-such a date. It was easy to get
+legislators, even at three dollars a day, although board was four
+dollars and fifty cents, for distinction has its charm in Nevada
+as well as elsewhere, and there were plenty of patriotic souls
+out of employment; but to get a legislative hall for them to meet
+in was another matter altogether. Carson blandly declined to give
+a room rent-free, or let one to the government on credit.</p>
+
+<p>But when Curry heard of the difficulty, he came forward,
+solitary and alone, and shouldered the Ship of State over the bar
+and got her afloat again. I refer to "Curry&mdash;Old Curry&mdash;Old Abe
+Curry." But for him the legislature would have been obliged to
+sit in the desert. He offered his large stone building just
+outside the capital limits, rent-free, and it was gladly
+accepted. Then he built a horse-railroad from town to the
+capitol, and carried the legislators gratis.</p>
+
+<p>He also furnished pine benches and chairs for the legislature,
+and covered the floors with clean saw-dust by way of carpet and
+spittoon combined. But for Curry the government would have died
+in its tender infancy. A canvas partition to separate the Senate
+from the House of Representatives was put up by the Secretary, at
+a cost of three dollars and forty cents, but the United States
+declined to pay for it. Upon being reminded that the
+"instructions" permitted the payment of a liberal rent for a
+legislative hall, and that that money was saved to the country by
+Mr. Curry's generosity, the United States said that did not alter
+the matter, and the three dollars and forty cents would be
+subtracted from the Secretary's eighteen hundred dollar
+salary&mdash;and it was!</p>
+
+<a name="188"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="188.jpg (30K)" src="images/188.jpg" height="209" width="586">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The matter of printing was from the beginning an interesting
+feature of the new government's difficulties. The Secretary was
+sworn to obey his volume of written "instructions," and these
+commanded him to do two certain things without fail, viz.:</p>
+
+<p>1. Get the House and Senate journals printed; and, 2. For this
+work, pay one dollar and fifty cents per "thousand" for
+composition, and one dollar and fifty cents per "token" for
+press-work, in greenbacks.</p>
+
+<p>It was easy to swear to do these two things, but it was
+entirely impossible to do more than one of them. When greenbacks
+had gone down to forty cents on the dollar, the prices regularly
+charged everybody by printing establishments were one dollar and
+fifty cents per "thousand" and one dollar and fifty cents per
+"token," in gold. The "instructions" commanded that the Secretary
+regard a paper dollar issued by the government as equal to any
+other dollar issued by the government. Hence the printing of the
+journals was discontinued. Then the United States sternly rebuked
+the Secretary for disregarding the "instructions," and warned him
+to correct his ways. Wherefore he got some printing done,
+forwarded the bill to Washington with full exhibits of the high
+prices of things in the Territory, and called attention to a
+printed market report wherein it would be observed that even hay
+was two hundred and fifty dollars a ton. The United States
+responded by subtracting the printing- bill from the Secretary's
+suffering salary&mdash;and moreover remarked with dense gravity that
+he would find nothing in his "instructions" requiring him to
+purchase hay!</p>
+
+<p>Nothing in this world is palled in such impenetrable obscurity
+as a U.S. Treasury Comptroller's understanding. The very fires of
+the hereafter could get up nothing more than a fitful glimmer in
+it. In the days I speak of he never could be made to comprehend
+why it was that twenty thousand dollars would not go as far in
+Nevada, where all commodities ranged at an enormous figure, as it
+would in the other Territories, where exceeding cheapness was the
+rule. He was an officer who looked out for the little expenses
+all the time. The Secretary of the Territory kept his office in
+his bedroom, as I before remarked; and he charged the United
+States no rent, although his "instructions" provided for that
+item and he could have justly taken advantage of it (a thing
+which I would have done with more than lightning promptness if I
+had been Secretary myself). But the United States never applauded
+this devotion. Indeed, I think my country was ashamed to have so
+improvident a person in its employ.</p>
+
+<p>Those "instructions" (we used to read a chapter from them
+every morning, as intellectual gymnastics, and a couple of
+chapters in Sunday school every Sabbath, for they treated of all
+subjects under the sun and had much valuable religious matter in
+them along with the other statistics) those "instructions"
+commanded that pen-knives, envelopes, pens and writing-paper be
+furnished the members of the legislature. So the Secretary made
+the purchase and the distribution. The knives cost three dollars
+apiece. There was one too many, and the Secretary gave it to the
+Clerk of the House of Representatives. The United States said the
+Clerk of the House was not a "member" of the legislature, and
+took that three dollars out of the Secretary's salary, as
+usual.</p>
+
+<p>White men charged three or four dollars a "load" for sawing up
+stove- wood. The Secretary was sagacious enough to know that the
+United States would never pay any such price as that; so he got
+an Indian to saw up a load of office wood at one dollar and a
+half. He made out the usual voucher, but signed no name to
+it&mdash;simply appended a note explaining that an Indian had done the
+work, and had done it in a very capable and satisfactory way, but
+could not sign the voucher owing to lack of ability in the
+necessary direction. The Secretary had to pay that dollar and a
+half. He thought the United States would admire both his economy
+and his honesty in getting the work done at half price and not
+putting a pretended Indian's signature to the voucher, but the
+United States did not see it in that light.</p>
+
+<p>The United States was too much accustomed to employing
+dollar-and-a-half thieves in all manner of official capacities to
+regard his explanation of the voucher as having any foundation in
+fact.</p>
+
+<a name="190"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="190.jpg (22K)" src="images/190.jpg" height="221" width="588">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>But the next time the Indian sawed wood for us I taught him to
+make a cross at the bottom of the voucher&mdash;it looked like a cross
+that had been drunk a year&mdash;and then I "witnessed" it and it went
+through all right. The United States never said a word. I was
+sorry I had not made the voucher for a thousand loads of wood
+instead of one.</p>
+
+<p>The government of my country snubs honest simplicity but
+fondles artistic villainy, and I think I might have developed
+into a very capable pickpocket if I had remained in the public
+service a year or two.</p>
+
+<p>That was a fine collection of sovereigns, that first Nevada
+legislature. They levied taxes to the amount of thirty or forty
+thousand dollars and ordered expenditures to the extent of about
+a million. Yet they had their little periodical explosions of
+economy like all other bodies of the kind. A member proposed to
+save three dollars a day to the nation by dispensing with the
+Chaplain. And yet that short-sighted man needed the Chaplain more
+than any other member, perhaps, for he generally sat with his
+feet on his desk, eating raw turnips, during the morning
+prayer.</p>
+
+<a name="191"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="191.jpg (99K)" src="images/191.jpg" height="615" width="475">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The legislature sat sixty days, and passed private tollroad
+franchises all the time. When they adjourned it was estimated
+that every citizen owned about three franchises, and it was
+believed that unless Congress gave the Territory another degree
+of longitude there would not be room enough to accommodate the
+toll-roads. The ends of them were hanging over the boundary line
+everywhere like a fringe.</p>
+
+<a name="192"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="192.jpg (29K)" src="images/192.jpg" height="371" width="312">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The fact is, the freighting business had grown to such
+important proportions that there was nearly as much excitement
+over suddenly acquired toll-road fortunes as over the wonderful
+silver mines.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch26"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>By and by I was smitten with the silver fever. "Prospecting
+parties" were leaving for the mountains every day, and
+discovering and taking possession of rich silver-bearing lodes
+and ledges of quartz. Plainly this was the road to fortune. The
+great "Gould and Curry" mine was held at three or four hundred
+dollars a foot when we arrived; but in two months it had sprung
+up to eight hundred. The "Ophir" had been worth only a mere
+trifle, a year gone by, and now it was selling at nearly four
+thousand dollars a foot! Not a mine could be named that had not
+experienced an astonishing advance in value within a short time.
+Everybody was talking about these marvels. Go where you would,
+you heard nothing else, from morning till far into the night. Tom
+So-and-So had sold out of the "Amanda Smith" for $40,000&mdash;hadn't
+a cent when he "took up" the ledge six months ago. John Jones had
+sold half his interest in the "Bald Eagle and Mary Ann" for
+$65,000, gold coin, and gone to the States for his family. The
+widow Brewster had "struck it rich" in the "Golden Fleece" and
+sold ten feet for $18,000&mdash;hadn't money enough to buy a crape
+bonnet when Sing-Sing Tommy killed her husband at Baldy Johnson's
+wake last spring. The "Last Chance" had found a "clay casing" and
+knew they were "right on the ledge"&mdash;consequence, "feet" that
+went begging yesterday were worth a brick house apiece to-day,
+and seedy owners who could not get trusted for a drink at any bar
+in the country yesterday were roaring drunk on champagne to-day
+and had hosts of warm personal friends in a town where they had
+forgotten how to bow or shake hands from long-continued want of
+practice. Johnny Morgan, a common loafer, had gone to sleep in
+the gutter and waked up worth a hundred thousand dollars, in
+consequence of the decision in the "Lady Franklin and Rough and
+Ready" lawsuit. And so on&mdash;day in and day out the talk pelted our
+ears and the excitement waxed hotter and hotter around us.</p>
+
+<p>I would have been more or less than human if I had not gone
+mad like the rest. Cart-loads of solid silver bricks, as large as
+pigs of lead, were arriving from the mills every day, and such
+sights as that gave substance to the wild talk about me. I
+succumbed and grew as frenzied as the craziest.</p>
+
+<a name="194"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="194.jpg (65K)" src="images/194.jpg" height="454" width="473">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Every few days news would come of the discovery of a bran-new
+mining region; immediately the papers would teem with accounts of
+its richness, and away the surplus population would scamper to
+take possession. By the time I was fairly inoculated with the
+disease, "Esmeralda" had just had a run and "Humboldt" was
+beginning to shriek for attention. "Humboldt! Humboldt!" was the
+new cry, and straightway Humboldt, the newest of the new, the
+richest of the rich, the most marvellous of the marvellous
+discoveries in silver-land was occupying two columns of the
+public prints to "Esmeralda's" one. I was just on the point of
+starting to Esmeralda, but turned with the tide and got ready for
+Humboldt. That the reader may see what moved me, and what would
+as surely have moved him had he been there, I insert here one of
+the newspaper letters of the day. It and several other letters
+from the same calm hand were the main means of converting me. I
+shall not garble the extract, but put it in just as it appeared
+in the Daily Territorial Enterprise:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>But what about our mines? I shall be candid with you. I shall
+express an honest opinion, based upon a thorough examination.
+Humboldt county is the richest mineral region upon God's
+footstool. Each mountain range is gorged with the precious ores.
+Humboldt is the true Golconda.</p>
+
+<p>The other day an assay of mere croppings yielded exceeding
+four thousand dollars to the ton. A week or two ago an assay of
+just such surface developments made returns of seven thousand
+dollars to the ton. Our mountains are full of rambling
+prospectors. Each day and almost every hour reveals new and more
+startling evidences of the profuse and intensified wealth of our
+favored county. The metal is not silver alone. There are distinct
+ledges of auriferous ore. A late discovery plainly evinces
+cinnabar. The coarser metals are in gross abundance. Lately
+evidences of bituminous coal have been detected. My theory has
+ever been that coal is a ligneous formation. I told Col. Whitman,
+in times past, that the neighborhood of Dayton (Nevada) betrayed
+no present or previous manifestations of a ligneous foundation,
+and that hence I had no confidence in his lauded coal mines. I
+repeated the same doctrine to the exultant coal discoverers of
+Humboldt. I talked with my friend Captain Burch on the subject.
+My pyrhanism vanished upon his statement that in the very region
+referred to he had seen petrified trees of the length of two
+hundred feet. Then is the fact established that huge forests once
+cast their grim shadows over this remote section. I am firm in
+the coal faith. Have no fears of the mineral resources of Humboldt county.
+They are immense&mdash;incalculable.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>Let me state one or two things which will help the reader to
+better comprehend certain items in the above. At this time, our
+near neighbor, Gold Hill, was the most successful silver mining
+locality in Nevada. It was from there that more than half the
+daily shipments of silver bricks came. "Very rich" (and scarce)
+Gold Hill ore yielded from $100 to $400 to the ton; but the usual
+yield was only $20 to $40 per ton&mdash;that is to say, each hundred
+pounds of ore yielded from one dollar to two dollars. But the
+reader will perceive by the above extract, that in Humboldt from
+one fourth to nearly half the mass was silver! That is to say,
+every one hundred pounds of the ore had from two hundred dollars
+up to about three hundred and fifty in it. Some days later this
+same correspondent wrote:</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<p>I have spoken of the vast and almost fabulous wealth of this
+region&mdash;it is incredible. The intestines of our mountains are
+gorged with precious ore to plethora. I have said that nature has
+so shaped our mountains as to furnish most excellent facilities
+for the working of our mines. I have also told you that the
+country about here is pregnant with the finest mill sites in the
+world. But what is the mining history of Humboldt? The Sheba mine
+is in the hands of energetic San Francisco capitalists. It would
+seem that the ore is combined with metals that render it
+difficult of reduction with our imperfect mountain machinery. The
+proprietors have combined the capital and labor hinted at in my
+exordium. They are toiling and probing. Their tunnel has reached
+the length of one hundred feet. From primal assays alone, coupled
+with the development of the mine and public confidence in the
+continuance of effort, the stock had reared itself to eight
+hundred dollars market value. I do not know that one ton of the
+ore has been converted into current metal. I do know that there
+are many lodes in this section that surpass the Sheba in primal
+assay value. Listen a moment to the calculations of the Sheba
+operators. They purpose transporting the ore concentrated to
+Europe. The conveyance from Star City (its locality) to Virginia
+City will cost seventy dollars per ton; from Virginia to San
+Francisco, forty dollars per ton; from thence to Liverpool, its
+destination, ten dollars per ton. Their idea is that its
+conglomerate metals will reimburse them their cost of original
+extraction, the price of transportation, and the expense of
+reduction, and that then a ton of the raw ore will net them
+twelve hundred dollars. The estimate may be extravagant. Cut it
+in twain, and the product is enormous, far transcending any
+previous developments of our racy Territory.</p>
+
+<p>A very common calculation is that many of our mines will yield
+five hundred dollars to the ton. Such fecundity throws the Gould
+&amp; Curry, the Ophir and the Mexican, of your neighborhood, in the
+darkest shadow. I have given you the estimate of the value of a
+single developed mine. Its richness is indexed by its market
+valuation. The people of Humboldt county are feet crazy. As I
+write, our towns are near deserted. They look as languid as a
+consumptive girl. What has become of our sinewy and athletic
+fellow-citizens? They are coursing through ravines and over
+mountain tops. Their tracks are visible in every direction.
+Occasionally a horseman will dash among us. His steed betrays
+hard usage. He alights before his adobe dwelling, hastily
+exchanges courtesies with his townsmen, hurries to an assay
+office and from thence to the District Recorder's. In the
+morning, having renewed his provisional supplies, he is off again
+on his wild and unbeaten route. Why, the fellow numbers already
+his feet by the thousands. He is the horse-leech. He has the
+craving stomach of the shark or anaconda. He would conquer
+metallic worlds.</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+
+<a name="196"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="196.jpg (187K)" src="images/196.jpg" height="1035" width="607">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+<p>This was enough. The instant we had finished reading the above
+article, four of us decided to go to Humboldt. We commenced
+getting ready at once. And we also commenced upbraiding ourselves
+for not deciding sooner&mdash;for we were in terror lest all the rich
+mines would be found and secured before we got there, and we
+might have to put up with ledges that would not yield more than
+two or three hundred dollars a ton, maybe. An hour before, I
+would have felt opulent if I had owned ten feet in a Gold Hill
+mine whose ore produced twenty-five dollars to the ton; now I was
+already annoyed at the prospect of having to put up with mines
+the poorest of which would be a marvel in Gold Hill.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch27"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Hurry, was the word! We wasted no time. Our party consisted of
+four persons&mdash;a blacksmith sixty years of age, two young lawyers,
+and myself. We bought a wagon and two miserable old horses. We
+put eighteen hundred pounds of provisions and mining tools in the
+wagon and drove out of Carson on a chilly December afternoon. The
+horses were so weak and old that we soon found that it would be
+better if one or two of us got out and walked. It was an
+improvement. Next, we found that it would be better if a third
+man got out. That was an improvement also. It was at this time
+that I volunteered to drive, although I had never driven a
+harnessed horse before and many a man in such a position would
+have felt fairly excused from such a responsibility. But in a
+little while it was found that it would be a fine thing if the
+drive got out and walked also. It was at this time that I
+resigned the position of driver, and never resumed it again.
+Within the hour, we found that it would not only be better, but
+was absolutely necessary, that we four, taking turns, two at a
+time, should put our hands against the end of the wagon and push
+it through the sand, leaving the feeble horses little to do but
+keep out of the way and hold up the tongue. Perhaps it is well
+for one to know his fate at first, and get reconciled to it. We
+had learned ours in one afternoon. It was plain that we had to
+walk through the sand and shove that wagon and those horses two
+hundred miles. So we accepted the situation, and from that time
+forth we never rode. More than that, we stood regular and nearly
+constant watches pushing up behind.</p>
+
+<p>We made seven miles, and camped in the desert. Young Clagett
+(now member of Congress from Montana) unharnessed and fed and
+watered the horses; Oliphant and I cut sagebrush, built the fire
+and brought water to cook with; and old Mr. Ballou the blacksmith
+did the cooking. This division of labor, and this appointment,
+was adhered to throughout the journey. We had no tent, and so we
+slept under our blankets in the open plain. We were so tired that
+we slept soundly.</p>
+
+<a name="199"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="199.jpg (54K)" src="images/199.jpg" height="326" width="602">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We were fifteen days making the trip&mdash;two hundred miles;
+thirteen, rather, for we lay by a couple of days, in one place,
+to let the horses rest.</p>
+
+<p>We could really have accomplished the journey in ten days if
+we had towed the horses behind the wagon, but we did not think of
+that until it was too late, and so went on shoving the horses and
+the wagon too when we might have saved half the labor. Parties
+who met us, occasionally, advised us to put the horses in the
+wagon, but Mr. Ballou, through whose iron-clad earnestness no
+sarcasm could pierce, said that that would not do, because the
+provisions were exposed and would suffer, the horses being
+"bituminous from long deprivation." The reader will excuse me
+from translating. What Mr. Ballou customarily meant, when he used
+a long word, was a secret between himself and his Maker. He was
+one of the best and kindest hearted men that ever graced a humble
+sphere of life. He was gentleness and simplicity itself&mdash;and
+unselfishness, too. Although he was more than twice as old as the
+eldest of us, he never gave himself any airs, privileges, or
+exemptions on that account. He did a young man's share of the
+work; and did his share of conversing and entertaining from the
+general stand-point of any age&mdash;not from the arrogant, overawing
+summit-height of sixty years. His one striking peculiarity was
+his Partingtonian fashion of loving and using big words for their
+own sakes, and independent of any bearing they might have upon
+the thought he was purposing to convey. He always let his
+ponderous syllables fall with an easy unconsciousness that left
+them wholly without offensiveness. In truth his air was so
+natural and so simple that one was always catching himself
+accepting his stately sentences as meaning something, when they
+really meant nothing in the world. If a word was long and grand
+and resonant, that was sufficient to win the old man's love, and
+he would drop that word into the most out-of-the-way place in a
+sentence or a subject, and be as pleased with it as if it were
+perfectly luminous with meaning.</p>
+
+<a name="201"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="201.jpg (62K)" src="images/201.jpg" height="346" width="596">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We four always spread our common stock of blankets together on
+the frozen ground, and slept side by side; and finding that our
+foolish, long-legged hound pup had a deal of animal heat in him,
+Oliphant got to admitting him to the bed, between himself and Mr.
+Ballou, hugging the dog's warm back to his breast and finding
+great comfort in it. But in the night the pup would get stretchy
+and brace his feet against the old man's back and shove, grunting
+complacently the while; and now and then, being warm and snug,
+grateful and happy, he would paw the old man's back simply in
+excess of comfort; and at yet other times he would dream of the
+chase and in his sleep tug at the old man's back hair and bark in
+his ear. The old gentleman complained mildly about these
+familiarities, at last, and when he got through with his
+statement he said that such a dog as that was not a proper animal
+to admit to bed with tired men, because he was "so meretricious
+in his movements and so organic in his emotions." We turned the
+dog out.</p>
+
+<p>It was a hard, wearing, toilsome journey, but it had its
+bright side; for after each day was done and our wolfish hunger
+appeased with a hot supper of fried bacon, bread, molasses and
+black coffee, the pipe-smoking, song- singing and yarn-spinning
+around the evening camp-fire in the still solitudes of the desert
+was a happy, care-free sort of recreation that seemed the very
+summit and culmination of earthly luxury.</p>
+
+<p>It is a kind of life that has a potent charm for all men,
+whether city or country-bred. We are descended from
+desert-lounging Arabs, and countless ages of growth toward
+perfect civilization have failed to root out of us the nomadic
+instinct. We all confess to a gratified thrill at the thought of
+"camping out."</p>
+
+<p>Once we made twenty-five miles in a day, and once we made
+forty miles (through the Great American Desert), and ten miles
+beyond&mdash;fifty in all&mdash;in twenty-three hours, without halting to
+eat, drink or rest. To stretch out and go to sleep, even on stony
+and frozen ground, after pushing a wagon and two horses fifty
+miles, is a delight so supreme that for the moment it almost
+seems cheap at the price.</p>
+
+<p>We camped two days in the neighborhood of the "Sink of the
+Humboldt." We tried to use the strong alkaline water of the Sink,
+but it would not answer. It was like drinking lye, and not weak
+lye, either. It left a taste in the mouth, bitter and every way
+execrable, and a burning in the stomach that was very
+uncomfortable. We put molasses in it, but that helped it very
+little; we added a pickle, yet the alkali was the prominent taste
+and so it was unfit for drinking.</p>
+
+<a name="202"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="205.jpg (58K)" src="images/205.jpg" height="479" width="425">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>The coffee we made of this water was the meanest compound man
+has yet invented. It was really viler to the taste than the
+unameliorated water itself. Mr. Ballou, being the architect and
+builder of the beverage felt constrained to endorse and uphold
+it, and so drank half a cup, by little sips, making shift to
+praise it faintly the while, but finally threw out the remainder,
+and said frankly it was "too technical for him."</p>
+
+<p>But presently we found a spring of fresh water, convenient,
+and then, with nothing to mar our enjoyment, and no stragglers to
+interrupt it, we entered into our rest.</p>
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch28"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>After leaving the Sink, we traveled along the Humboldt river a
+little way. People accustomed to the monster mile-wide
+Mississippi, grow accustomed to associating the term "river" with
+a high degree of watery grandeur. Consequently, such people feel
+rather disappointed when they stand on the shores of the Humboldt
+or the Carson and find that a "river" in Nevada is a sickly
+rivulet which is just the counterpart of the Erie canal in all
+respects save that the canal is twice as long and four times as
+deep. One of the pleasantest and most invigorating exercises one
+can contrive is to run and jump across the Humboldt river till he
+is overheated, and then drink it dry.</p>
+
+<p>On the fifteenth day we completed our march of two hundred
+miles and entered Unionville, Humboldt county, in the midst of a
+driving snow- storm. Unionville consisted of eleven cabins and a
+liberty-pole. Six of the cabins were strung along one side of a
+deep canyon, and the other five faced them. The rest of the
+landscape was made up of bleak mountain walls that rose so high
+into the sky from both sides of the canyon that the village was
+left, as it were, far down in the bottom of a crevice. It was
+always daylight on the mountain tops a long time before the
+darkness lifted and revealed Unionville.</p>
+
+<p>We built a small, rude cabin in the side of the crevice and
+roofed it with canvas, leaving a corner open to serve as a
+chimney, through which the cattle used to tumble occasionally, at
+night, and mash our furniture and interrupt our sleep. It was
+very cold weather and fuel was scarce. Indians brought brush and
+bushes several miles on their backs; and when we could catch a
+laden Indian it was well&mdash;and when we could not (which was the
+rule, not the exception), we shivered and bore it.</p>
+
+<a name="205"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="205.jpg (58K)" src="images/205.jpg" height="479" width="425">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>I confess, without shame, that I expected to find masses of
+silver lying all about the ground. I expected to see it
+glittering in the sun on the mountain summits. I said nothing
+about this, for some instinct told me that I might possibly have
+an exaggerated idea about it, and so if I betrayed my thought I
+might bring derision upon myself. Yet I was as perfectly
+satisfied in my own mind as I could be of anything, that I was
+going to gather up, in a day or two, or at furthest a week or
+two, silver enough to make me satisfactorily wealthy&mdash;and so my
+fancy was already busy with plans for spending this money. The
+first opportunity that offered, I sauntered carelessly away from
+the cabin, keeping an eye on the other boys, and stopping and
+contemplating the sky when they seemed to be observing me; but as
+soon as the coast was manifestly clear, I fled away as guiltily
+as a thief might have done and never halted till I was far beyond
+sight and call. Then I began my search with a feverish excitement
+that was brimful of expectation&mdash;almost of certainty. I crawled
+about the ground, seizing and examining bits of stone, blowing
+the dust from them or rubbing them on my clothes, and then
+peering at them with anxious hope. Presently I found a bright
+fragment and my heart bounded! I hid behind a boulder and
+polished it and scrutinized it with a nervous eagerness and a
+delight that was more pronounced than absolute certainty itself
+could have afforded. The more I examined the fragment the more I
+was convinced that I had found the door to fortune. I marked the
+spot and carried away my specimen. Up and down the rugged
+mountain side I searched, with always increasing interest and
+always augmenting gratitude that I had come to Humboldt and come
+in time. Of all the experiences of my life, this secret search
+among the hidden treasures of silver-land was the nearest to
+unmarred ecstasy. It was a delirious revel.</p>
+
+<p>By and by, in the bed of a shallow rivulet, I found a deposit
+of shining yellow scales, and my breath almost forsook me! A gold
+mine, and in my simplicity I had been content with vulgar silver!
+I was so excited that I half believed my overwrought imagination
+was deceiving me. Then a fear came upon me that people might be
+observing me and would guess my secret. Moved by this thought, I
+made a circuit of the place, and ascended a knoll to reconnoiter.
+Solitude. No creature was near. Then I returned to my mine,
+fortifying myself against possible disappointment, but my fears
+were groundless&mdash;the shining scales were still there. I set about
+scooping them out, and for an hour I toiled down the windings of
+the stream and robbed its bed. But at last the descending sun
+warned me to give up the quest, and I turned homeward laden with
+wealth. As I walked along I could not help smiling at the thought
+of my being so excited over my fragment of silver when a nobler
+metal was almost under my nose. In this little time the former
+had so fallen in my estimation that once or twice I was on the
+point of throwing it away.</p>
+
+<p>The boys were as hungry as usual, but I could eat nothing.
+Neither could I talk. I was full of dreams and far away. Their
+conversation interrupted the flow of my fancy somewhat, and
+annoyed me a little, too. I despised the sordid and commonplace
+things they talked about. But as they proceeded, it began to
+amuse me. It grew to be rare fun to hear them planning their poor
+little economies and sighing over possible privations and
+distresses when a gold mine, all our own, lay within sight of the
+cabin and I could point it out at any moment. Smothered hilarity
+began to oppress me, presently. It was hard to resist the impulse
+to burst out with exultation and reveal everything; but I did
+resist. I said within myself that I would filter the great news
+through my lips calmly and be serene as a summer morning while I
+watched its effect in their faces. I said:</p>
+
+<p>"Where have you all been?"</p>
+
+<p>"Prospecting."</p>
+
+<p>"What did you find?"</p>
+
+<p>"Nothing."</p>
+
+<p>"Nothing? What do you think of the country?"</p>
+
+<p>"Can't tell, yet," said Mr. Ballou, who was an old gold miner,
+and had likewise had considerable experience among the silver
+mines.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, haven't you formed any sort of opinion?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, a sort of a one. It's fair enough here, may be, but
+overrated. Seven thousand dollar ledges are scarce, though.</p>
+
+<p>"That Sheba may be rich enough, but we don't own it; and
+besides, the rock is so full of base metals that all the science
+in the world can't work it. We'll not starve, here, but we'll not
+get rich, I'm afraid."</p>
+
+<p>"So you think the prospect is pretty poor?"</p>
+
+<p>"No name for it!"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, we'd better go back, hadn't we?"</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, not yet&mdash;of course not. We'll try it a riffle,
+first."</p>
+
+<p>"Suppose, now&mdash;this is merely a supposition, you know&mdash;suppose
+you could find a ledge that would yield, say, a hundred and fifty
+dollars a ton&mdash;would that satisfy you?"</p>
+
+<p>"Try us once!" from the whole party.</p>
+
+<p>"Or suppose&mdash;merely a supposition, of course&mdash;suppose you were
+to find a ledge that would yield two thousand dollars a
+ton&mdash;would that satisfy you?"</p>
+
+<p>"Here&mdash;what do you mean? What are you coming at? Is there some
+mystery behind all this?"</p>
+
+<p>"Never mind. I am not saying anything. You know perfectly well
+there are no rich mines here&mdash;of course you do. Because you have
+been around and examined for yourselves. Anybody would know that,
+that had been around. But just for the sake of argument,
+suppose&mdash;in a kind of general way&mdash;suppose some person were to
+tell you that two-thousand-dollar ledges were simply
+contemptible&mdash;contemptible, understand&mdash;and that right yonder in
+sight of this very cabin there were piles of pure gold and pure
+silver&mdash;oceans of it&mdash;enough to make you all rich in twenty-four
+hours! Come!"</p>
+
+<p>"I should say he was as crazy as a loon!" said old Ballou, but
+wild with excitement, nevertheless.</p>
+
+<p>"Gentlemen," said I, "I don't say anything&mdash;I haven't been
+around, you know, and of course don't know anything&mdash;but all I
+ask of you is to cast your eye on that, for instance, and tell me
+what you think of it!" and I tossed my treasure before them.</p>
+
+<a name="207"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="207.jpg (92K)" src="images/207.jpg" height="503" width="584">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>There was an eager scramble for it, and a closing of heads
+together over it under the candle-light. Then old Ballou
+said:</p>
+
+<p>"Think of it? I think it is nothing but a lot of granite
+rubbish and nasty glittering mica that isn't worth ten cents an
+acre!"</p>
+
+<p>So vanished my dream. So melted my wealth away. So toppled my
+airy castle to the earth and left me stricken and forlorn.</p>
+
+<p>Moralizing, I observed, then, that "all that glitters is not
+gold."</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Ballou said I could go further than that, and lay it up
+among my treasures of knowledge, that nothing that glitters is
+gold. So I learned then, once for all, that gold in its native
+state is but dull, unornamental stuff, and that only low-born
+metals excite the admiration of the ignorant with an ostentatious
+glitter. However, like the rest of the world, I still go on
+underrating men of gold and glorifying men of mica. Commonplace
+human nature cannot rise above that.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch29"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXIX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>True knowledge of the nature of silver mining came fast
+enough. We went out "prospecting" with Mr. Ballou. We climbed the
+mountain sides, and clambered among sage-brush, rocks and snow
+till we were ready to drop with exhaustion, but found no
+silver&mdash;nor yet any gold. Day after day we did this. Now and then
+we came upon holes burrowed a few feet into the declivities and
+apparently abandoned; and now and then we found one or two
+listless men still burrowing. But there was no appearance of
+silver. These holes were the beginnings of tunnels, and the
+purpose was to drive them hundreds of feet into the mountain, and
+some day tap the hidden ledge where the silver was. Some day! It
+seemed far enough away, and very hopeless and dreary. Day after
+day we toiled, and climbed and searched, and we younger partners
+grew sicker and still sicker of the promiseless toil. At last we
+halted under a beetling rampart of rock which projected from the
+earth high upon the mountain. Mr. Ballou broke off some fragments
+with a hammer, and examined them long and attentively with a
+small eye-glass; threw them away and broke off more; said this
+rock was quartz, and quartz was the sort of rock that contained
+silver. Contained it! I had thought that at least it would be
+caked on the outside of it like a kind of veneering. He still
+broke off pieces and critically examined them, now and then
+wetting the piece with his tongue and applying the glass. At last
+he exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>"We've got it!"</p>
+
+<a name="210"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="210.jpg (74K)" src="images/210.jpg" height="618" width="433">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>We were full of anxiety in a moment. The rock was clean and
+white, where it was broken, and across it ran a ragged thread of
+blue. He said that that little thread had silver in it, mixed
+with base metal, such as lead and antimony, and other rubbish,
+and that there was a speck or two of gold visible. After a great
+deal of effort we managed to discern some little fine yellow
+specks, and judged that a couple of tons of them massed together
+might make a gold dollar, possibly. We were not jubilant, but Mr.
+Ballou said there were worse ledges in the world than that. He
+saved what he called the "richest" piece of the rock, in order to
+determine its value by the process called the "fire-assay." Then
+we named the mine "Monarch of the Mountains" (modesty of
+nomenclature is not a prominent feature in the mines), and Mr.
+Ballou wrote out and stuck up the following "notice," preserving
+a copy to be entered upon the books in the mining recorder's
+office in the town.</p>
+
+<blockquote><blockquote>
+<center>"NOTICE."</center>
+
+<p>"We the undersigned claim three claims, of three hundred feet
+each (and one for discovery), on this silver-bearing quartz lead
+or lode, extending north and south from this notice, with all its
+dips, spurs, and angles, variations and sinuosities, together
+with fifty feet of ground on either side for working the
+same."</p>
+</blockquote></blockquote>
+
+<p>We put our names to it and tried to feel that our fortunes
+were made. But when we talked the matter all over with Mr.
+Ballou, we felt depressed and dubious. He said that this surface
+quartz was not all there was of our mine; but that the wall or
+ledge of rock called the "Monarch of the Mountains," extended
+down hundreds and hundreds of feet into the earth&mdash;he
+illustrated by saying it was like a curb-stone, and maintained a
+nearly uniform thickness-say twenty feet&mdash;away down into the
+bowels of the earth, and was perfectly distinct from the casing
+rock on each side of it; and that it kept to itself, and
+maintained its distinctive character always, no matter how deep
+it extended into the earth or how far it stretched itself through
+and across the hills and valleys. He said it might be a mile deep
+and ten miles long, for all we knew; and that wherever we bored
+into it above ground or below, we would find gold and silver in
+it, but no gold or silver in the meaner rock it was cased
+between. And he said that down in the great depths of the ledge
+was its richness, and the deeper it went the richer it grew.
+Therefore, instead of working here on the surface, we must either
+bore down into the rock with a shaft till we came to where it was
+rich&mdash;say a hundred feet or so&mdash;or else we must go down into the
+valley and bore a long tunnel into the mountain side and tap the
+ledge far under the earth. To do either was plainly the labor of
+months; for we could blast and bore only a few feet a day&mdash;some
+five or six. But this was not all. He said that after we got the
+ore out it must be hauled in wagons to a distant silver-mill,
+ground up, and the silver extracted by a tedious and costly
+process. Our fortune seemed a century away!</p>
+
+<p>But we went to work. We decided to sink a shaft. So, for a
+week we climbed the mountain, laden with picks, drills, gads,
+crowbars, shovels, cans of blasting powder and coils of fuse and
+strove with might and main. At first the rock was broken and
+loose and we dug it up with picks and threw it out with shovels,
+and the hole progressed very well. But the rock became more
+compact, presently, and gads and crowbars came into play. But
+shortly nothing could make an impression but blasting powder.</p>
+
+<p>That was the weariest work! One of us held the iron drill in
+its place and another would strike with an eight-pound sledge&mdash;it
+was like driving nails on a large scale. In the course of an hour
+or two the drill would reach a depth of two or three feet, making
+a hole a couple of inches in diameter. We would put in a charge
+of powder, insert half a yard of fuse, pour in sand and gravel
+and ram it down, then light the fuse and run. When the explosion
+came and the rocks and smoke shot into the air, we would go back
+and find about a bushel of that hard, rebellious quartz jolted
+out. Nothing more. One week of this satisfied me. I resigned.
+Clagget and Oliphant followed. Our shaft was only twelve feet
+deep. We decided that a tunnel was the thing we wanted.</p>
+
+<a name="212"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="212.jpg (89K)" src="images/212.jpg" height="612" width="451">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>So we went down the mountain side and worked a week; at the
+end of which time we had blasted a tunnel about deep enough to
+hide a hogshead in, and judged that about nine hundred feet more
+of it would reach the ledge. I resigned again, and the other boys
+only held out one day longer. We decided that a tunnel was not
+what we wanted. We wanted a ledge that was already "developed."
+There were none in the camp.</p>
+
+<p>We dropped the "Monarch" for the time being.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the camp was filling up with people, and there was a
+constantly growing excitement about our Humboldt mines. We fell
+victims to the epidemic and strained every nerve to acquire more
+"feet." We prospected and took up new claims, put "notices" on
+them and gave them grandiloquent names. We traded some of our
+"feet" for "feet" in other people's claims. In a little while we
+owned largely in the "Gray Eagle," the "Columbiana," the "Branch
+Mint," the "Maria Jane," the "Universe," the "Root-Hog-or- Die,"
+the "Samson and Delilah," the "Treasure Trove," the "Golconda,"
+the "Sultana," the "Boomerang," the "Great Republic," the "Grand
+Mogul," and fifty other "mines" that had never been molested by a
+shovel or scratched with a pick. We had not less than thirty
+thousand "feet" apiece in the "richest mines on earth" as the
+frenzied cant phrased it&mdash;and were in debt to the butcher. We
+were stark mad with excitement&mdash;drunk with happiness&mdash;smothered
+under mountains of prospective wealth&mdash;arrogantly compassionate
+toward the plodding millions who knew not our marvellous
+canyon&mdash;but our credit was not good at the grocer's.</p>
+
+<p>It was the strangest phase of life one can imagine. It was a
+beggars' revel. There was nothing doing in the district&mdash;no
+mining&mdash;no milling&mdash;no productive effort&mdash;no income&mdash;and not
+enough money in the entire camp to buy a corner lot in an eastern
+village, hardly; and yet a stranger would have supposed he was
+walking among bloated millionaires. Prospecting parties swarmed
+out of town with the first flush of dawn, and swarmed in again at
+nightfall laden with spoil&mdash;rocks. Nothing but rocks. Every man's
+pockets were full of them; the floor of his cabin was littered
+with them; they were disposed in labeled rows on his shelves.</p>
+
+<a name="214"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="214.jpg (51K)" src="images/214.jpg" height="392" width="568">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+
+
+
+<br><br>
+<a name="ch30"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<h2>CHAPTER XXX.</h2>
+</center>
+<br>
+
+
+
+<p>I met men at every turn who owned from one thousand to thirty
+thousand "feet" in undeveloped silver mines, every single foot of
+which they believed would shortly be worth from fifty to a
+thousand dollars&mdash;and as often as any other way they were men who
+had not twenty-five dollars in the world. Every man you met had
+his new mine to boast of, and his "specimens" ready; and if the
+opportunity offered, he would infallibly back you into a corner
+and offer as a favor to you, not to him, to part with just a few
+feet in the "Golden Age," or the "Sarah Jane," or some other
+unknown stack of croppings, for money enough to get a "square
+meal" with, as the phrase went. And you were never to reveal that
+he had made you the offer at such a ruinous price, for it was
+only out of friendship for you that he was willing to make the
+sacrifice. Then he would fish a piece of rock out of his pocket,
+and after looking mysteriously around as if he feared he might be
+waylaid and robbed if caught with such wealth in his possession,
+he would dab the rock against his tongue, clap an eyeglass to it,
+and exclaim:</p>
+
+<p>"Look at that! Right there in that red dirt! See it? See the
+specks of gold? And the streak of silver? That's from the Uncle
+Abe. There's a hundred thousand tons like that in sight! Right in
+sight, mind you! And when we get down on it and the ledge comes
+in solid, it will be the richest thing in the world! Look at the
+assay! I don't want you to believe me&mdash;look at the assay!"</p>
+
+<a name="216"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="216.jpg (63K)" src="images/216.jpg" height="544" width="426">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>Then he would get out a greasy sheet of paper which showed
+that the portion of rock assayed had given evidence of containing
+silver and gold in the proportion of so many hundreds or
+thousands of dollars to the ton.</p>
+
+<p>I little knew, then, that the custom was to hunt out the
+richest piece of rock and get it assayed! Very often, that piece,
+the size of a filbert, was the only fragment in a ton that had a
+particle of metal in it&mdash;and yet the assay made it pretend to
+represent the average value of the ton of rubbish it came
+from!</p>
+
+<p>On such a system of assaying as that, the Humboldt world had
+gone crazy. On the authority of such assays its newspaper
+correspondents were frothing about rock worth four and seven
+thousand dollars a ton!</p>
+
+<p>And does the reader remember, a few pages back, the
+calculations, of a quoted correspondent, whereby the ore is to be
+mined and shipped all the way to England, the metals extracted,
+and the gold and silver contents received back by the miners as
+clear profit, the copper, antimony and other things in the ore
+being sufficient to pay all the expenses incurred? Everybody's
+head was full of such "calculations" as those&mdash;such raving
+insanity, rather. Few people took work into their
+calculations&mdash;or outlay of money either; except the work and
+expenditures of other people.</p>
+
+<p>We never touched our tunnel or our shaft again. Why? Because
+we judged that we had learned the real secret of success in
+silver mining&mdash;which was, not to mine the silver ourselves by the
+sweat of our brows and the labor of our hands, but to sell the
+ledges to the dull slaves of toil and let them do the mining!</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Carson, the Secretary and I had purchased
+"feet" from various Esmeralda stragglers. We had expected
+immediate returns of bullion, but were only afflicted with
+regular and constant "assessments" instead&mdash;demands for money
+wherewith to develop the said mines. These assessments had grown
+so oppressive that it seemed necessary to look into the matter
+personally. Therefore I projected a pilgrimage to Carson and
+thence to Esmeralda. I bought a horse and started, in company
+with Mr. Ballou and a gentleman named Ollendorff, a Prussian&mdash;not
+the party who has inflicted so much suffering on the world with
+his wretched foreign grammars, with their interminable
+repetitions of questions which never have occurred and are never
+likely to occur in any conversation among human beings. We rode
+through a snow-storm for two or three days, and arrived at "Honey
+Lake Smith's," a sort of isolated inn on the Carson river. It was
+a two-story log house situated on a small knoll in the midst of
+the vast basin or desert through which the sickly Carson winds
+its melancholy way. Close to the house were the Overland stage
+stables, built of sun-dried bricks. There was not another
+building within several leagues of the place. Towards sunset
+about twenty hay-wagons arrived and camped around the house and
+all the teamsters came in to supper&mdash;a very, very rough set.
+There were one or two Overland stage drivers there, also, and
+half a dozen vagabonds and stragglers; consequently the house was
+well crowded.</p>
+
+<p>We walked out, after supper, and visited a small Indian camp
+in the vicinity. The Indians were in a great hurry about
+something, and were packing up and getting away as fast as they
+could. In their broken English they said, "By'm-by, heap water!"
+and by the help of signs made us understand that in their opinion
+a flood was coming. The weather was perfectly clear, and this was
+not the rainy season. There was about a foot of water in the
+insignificant river&mdash;or maybe two feet; the stream was not wider
+than a back alley in a village, and its banks were scarcely
+higher than a man's head.</p>
+
+<p>So, where was the flood to come from? We canvassed the subject
+awhile and then concluded it was a ruse, and that the Indians had
+some better reason for leaving in a hurry than fears of a flood
+in such an exceedingly dry time.</p>
+
+<a name="218"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="218.jpg (37K)" src="images/218.jpg" height="317" width="452">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>At seven in the evening we went to bed in the second
+story&mdash;with our clothes on, as usual, and all three in the same
+bed, for every available space on the floors, chairs, etc., was
+in request, and even then there was barely room for the housing
+of the inn's guests. An hour later we were awakened by a great
+turmoil, and springing out of bed we picked our way nimbly among
+the ranks of snoring teamsters on the floor and got to the front
+windows of the long room. A glance revealed a strange spectacle,
+under the moonlight. The crooked Carson was full to the brim, and
+its waters were raging and foaming in the wildest way&mdash;sweeping
+around the sharp bends at a furious speed, and bearing on their
+surface a chaos of logs, brush and all sorts of rubbish. A
+depression, where its bed had once been, in other times, was
+already filling, and in one or two places the water was beginning
+to wash over the main bank. Men were flying hither and thither,
+bringing cattle and wagons close up to the house, for the spot of
+high ground on which it stood extended only some thirty feet in
+front and about a hundred in the rear. Close to the old river bed
+just spoken of, stood a little log stable, and in this our horses
+were lodged.</p>
+
+<a name="219"></a>
+<br><br>
+<center>
+<img alt="219.jpg (173K)" src="images/219.jpg" height="1027" width="616">
+</center>
+<br><br>
+
+<p>While we looked, the waters increased so fast in this place
+that in a few minutes a torrent was roaring by the little stable
+and its margin encroaching steadily on the logs. We suddenly
+realized that this flood was not a mere holiday spectacle, but
+meant damage&mdash;and not only to the small log stable but to the
+Overland buildings close to the main river, for the waves had now
+come ashore and were creeping about the foundations and invading
+the great hay-corral adjoining. We ran down and joined the crowd
+of excited men and frightened animals. We waded knee-deep into
+the log stable, unfastened the horses and waded out almost
+waist-deep, so fast the waters increased. Then the crowd rushed
+in a body to the hay- corral and began to tumble down the huge
+stacks of baled hay and roll the bales up on the high ground by
+the house. Meantime it was discovered that Owens, an overland
+driver, was missing, and a man ran to the large stable, and
+wading in, boot-top deep, discovered him asleep in his bed, awoke
+him, and waded out again. But Owens was drowsy and resumed his
+nap; but only for a minute or two, for presently he turned in his
+bed, his hand dropped over the side and came in contact with the
+cold water! It was up level with the mattress! He waded out,
+breast-deep, almost, and the next moment the sun-burned bricks
+melted down like sugar and the big building crumbled to a ruin
+and was washed away in a twinkling.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven o'clock only the roof of the little log stable was
+out of water, and our inn was on an island in mid-ocean. As far
+as the eye could reach, in the moonlight, there was no desert
+visible, but only a level waste of shining water. The Indians
+were true prophets, but how did they get their information? I am
+not able to answer the question. We remained cooped up eight days
+and nights with that curious crew. Swearing, drinking and card
+playing were the order of the day, and occasionally a fight was
+thrown in for variety. Dirt and vermin&mdash;but let us forget those
+features; their profusion is simply inconceivable&mdash;it is better
+that they remain so.</p>
+
+<p>There were two men&mdash;&mdash;however, this chapter is long
+enough.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Roughing It, Part 3.
+by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
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+</body>
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