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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cuba in War Time, by Richard Harding Davis
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cuba in War Time
+
+Author: Richard Harding Davis
+
+Posting Date: January 10, 2011 [EBook #8380]
+Release Date: June, 2005
+First Posted: July 5, 2003
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CUBA IN WAR TIME ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Eric Eldred, Marvin A. Hodges and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Death of Rodriguez]
+
+
+
+CUBA
+
+IN WAR TIME
+
+BY
+
+RICHARD HARDING DAVIS
+
+
+Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society Author of "Three Gringos in
+Venezuela and Central America," "The Princess Aline," "Gallegher," "Van
+Bibber, and Others," "Dr. Jameson's Raiders," etc., etc.
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY FREDERIC REMINGTON
+
+NEW YORK. R. H. RUSSELL 1897 *[Note: Before Spanish-American War]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+List of Illustrations
+
+Author's Note
+
+Cuba in War Time
+
+The Fate of the Pacificos
+
+The Death of Rodriguez
+
+Along the Trocha
+
+The Question of Atrocities
+
+The Right of Search of American Vessels
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+The Death of Rodríguez
+
+A Spanish Soldier
+
+Guerrillas with Captured Pacificos
+
+A Spanish Officer
+
+Insurgents Firing on Spanish Fort
+
+Fire and Sword in Cuba
+
+A Spanish Guerrilla
+
+Murdering the Cuban Wounded
+
+Bringing in the Wounded
+
+Young Spanish Officer
+
+The Cuban Martyrdom
+
+Regular Cavalryman--Spanish
+
+One of the Block Houses
+
+Spanish Cavalry
+
+One of the Forts Along the Trocha
+
+The Trocha
+
+Spanish Troops in Action
+
+Amateur Surgery in Cuba
+
+Scouting Party of Spanish Cavalry
+
+An Officer of Spanish Guerrillas
+
+A Spanish Picket Post
+
+General Weyler in the Field
+
+Spanish Cavalryman on a Texas Broncho
+
+For Cuba Libre
+
+
+
+
+NOTE
+
+
+These illustrations were made by Mr. Frederic Remington, from personal
+observation while in Cuba, and from photographs, and descriptions
+furnished by eye-witnesses, and are here reproduced through the
+courtesy of Mr. W. R. Hearst.
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S NOTE
+
+After my return from Cuba many people asked me questions concerning the
+situation there, and I noticed that they generally asked the same
+questions. This book has been published with the idea of answering
+those questions as fully as is possible for me to do after a journey
+through the island, during which I traveled in four of the six
+provinces, visiting towns, seaports, plantations and military camps,
+and stopping for several days in all of the chief cities of Cuba, with
+the exception of Santiago and Pinar del Rio.
+
+Part of this book was published originally in the form of letters from
+Cuba to the _New York Journal_ and in the newspapers of a
+syndicate arranged by the _Journal_; the remainder, which was
+suggested by the questions asked on my return, was written in this
+country, and appears here for the first time.
+
+
+RICHARD HARDING DAVIS.
+
+
+
+
+Cuba In War Time
+
+
+When the revolution broke out in Cuba two years ago, the Spaniards at
+once began to build tiny forts, and continued to add to these and
+improve those already built, until now the whole island, which is eight
+hundred miles long and averages eighty miles in width, is studded as
+thickly with these little forts as is the sole of a brogan with iron
+nails. It is necessary to keep the fact of the existence of these forts
+in mind in order to understand the situation in Cuba at the present
+time, as they illustrate the Spanish plan of campaign, and explain why
+the war has dragged on for so long, and why it may continue
+indefinitely.
+
+The last revolution was organized by the aristocrats; the present one
+is a revolution of the _puebleo_, and, while the principal Cuban
+families are again among the leaders, with them now are the
+representatives of the "plain people," and the cause is now a common
+cause in working for the success of which all classes of Cubans are
+desperately in earnest.
+
+The outbreak of this revolution was hastened by an offer from Spain to
+make certain reforms in the internal government of the island. The old
+revolutionary leaders, fearing that the promise of these reforms might
+satisfy the Cubans, and that they would cease to hope for complete
+independence, started the revolt, and asked all loyal Cubans not to
+accept the so-called reforms when, by fighting, they might obtain their
+freedom. Another cause which precipitated the revolution was the
+financial depression which existed all over the island in 1894, and the
+closing of the sugar mills in consequence. Owing to the lack of money
+with which to pay the laborers, the grinding of the sugar cane ceased,
+and the men were turned off by the hundreds, and, for want of something
+better to do, joined the insurgents. Some planters believe that had
+Spain loaned them sufficient money with which to continue grinding, the
+men would have remained on the _centrals_, as the machine shops
+and residence of a sugar plantation are called, and that so few would
+have gone into the field against Spain that the insurrection could have
+been put down before it had gained headway. An advance to the sugar
+planters of five millions of dollars then, so they say, would have
+saved Spain the outlay of many hundreds of millions spent later in
+supporting an army in the field. That may or may not be true, and it is
+not important now, for Spain did not attack the insurgents in that way,
+but began hastily to build forts. These forts now stretch all over the
+island, some in straight lines, some in circles, and some zig-zagging
+from hill-top to hill-top, some within a quarter of a mile of the next,
+and others so near that the sentries can toss a cartridge from one to
+the other.
+
+The island is divided into two great military camps, one situated
+within the forts, and the other scattered over the fields and mountains
+outside of them. The Spaniards have absolute control over everything
+within the fortified places; that is, in all cities, towns, seaports,
+and along the lines of the railroad; the insurgents are in possession
+of all the rest. They are not in fixed possession, but they have
+control much as a mad bull may be said to have control of a ten-acre
+lot when he goes on the rampage. Some farmer may hold a legal right to
+the ten-acre lot, through title deeds or in the shape of a mortgage,
+and the bull may occupy but one part of it at a time, but he has
+possession, which is better than the law.
+
+It is difficult to imagine a line drawn so closely, not about one city
+or town, but around every city and town in Cuba, that no one can pass
+the line from either the outside or the inside. The Spaniards, however,
+have succeeded in effecting and maintaining a blockade of that kind.
+They have placed forts next to the rows of houses or huts on the
+outskirts of each town, within a hundred yards of one another, and
+outside of this circle is another circle, and beyond that, on every
+high piece of ground, are still more of these little square forts,
+which are not much larger than the signal stations along the lines of
+our railroads and not unlike them in appearance. No one can cross the
+line of the forts without a pass, nor enter from the country beyond
+them without an order showing from what place he comes, at what time he
+left that place, and that he had permission from the commandante to
+leave it. A stranger in any city in Cuba to-day is virtually in a
+prison, and is as isolated from the rest of the world as though he were
+on a desert island or a floating ship of war. When he wishes to depart
+he is free to do so, but he cannot leave on foot nor on horseback. He
+must make his departure on a railroad train, of which seldom more than
+two leave any town in twenty-four hours, one going east and the other
+west. From Havana a number of trains depart daily in different
+directions, but once outside of Havana, there is only one train back to
+it again. When on the cars you are still in the presence and under the
+care of Spanish soldiers, and the progress of the train is closely
+guarded. A pilot engine precedes it at a distance of one hundred yards
+to test the rails and pick up dynamite bombs, and in front of it is a
+car covered with armor plate, with slits in the sides like those in a
+letter box, through which the soldiers may fire. There are generally
+from twenty to fifty soldiers in each armored car. Back of the armored
+car is a flat car loaded with ties, girders and rails, which are used
+to repair bridges or those portions of the track that may have been
+blown up by the insurgents. Wherever a track crosses a bridge there are
+two forts, one at each end of the bridge, and also at almost every
+cross-road. When the train passes one of these forts, two soldiers
+appear in the door and stand at salute to show, probably, that they are
+awake, and at every station there are two or more forts, while the
+stations themselves are usually protected by ramparts of ties and steel
+rails. There is no situation where it is so distinctly evident that
+those who are not with you are against you, for you are either inside
+of one circle of forts or passing under guard by rail to another
+circle, or you are with the insurgents. There is no alternative. If you
+walk fifty yards away from the circle you are, in the eyes of the
+Spaniards, as much in "the field" as though you were two hundred miles
+away on the mountains.
+
+[Illustration: A Spanish Soldier]
+
+The lines are so closely drawn that when you consider the tremendous
+amount of time and labor expended in keeping up this blockade, you must
+admire the Spaniards for doing it so well, but you would admire them
+more, if, instead of stopping content with that they went further and
+invaded the field. The forts are an excellent precaution; they prevent
+sympathizers from joining the insurgents and from sending them food,
+arms, medicine or messages. But the next step, after blockading the
+cities, would appear to be to follow the insurgents into the field and
+give them battle. This the Spaniards do not seem to consider important,
+nor wish to do. Flying columns of regular troops and guerrillas are
+sent out daily, but they always return each evening within the circle
+of forts. If they meet a band of insurgents they give battle readily
+enough, but they never pursue the enemy, and, instead of camping on the
+ground and following him up the next morning, they retreat as soon as
+the battle is over, to the town where they are stationed. When
+occasionally objection is made to this by a superior officer, they give
+as an explanation that they were afraid of being led into an ambush,
+and that as an officer's first consideration must be for his men, they
+decided that it was wiser not to follow the enemy into what might prove
+a death-trap; or the officers say they could not abandon their wounded
+while they pursued the rebels. Sometimes a force of one thousand men
+will return with three men wounded, and will offer their condition as
+an excuse for having failed to follow the enemy.
+
+About five years ago troops of United States cavalry were sent into the
+chapparal on the border of Mexico and Texas to drive the Garcia
+revolutionists back into their own country. One troop, G, Third
+Cavalry, was ordered out for seven days' service, but when I joined the
+troop later as a correspondent, it had been in the field for three
+months, sleeping the entire time under canvas, and carrying all its
+impedimenta with it on pack mules. It had seldom, if ever, been near a
+town, and the men wore the same clothes, or what was left of them, with
+which they had started for a week's campaign. Had the Spaniards
+followed such a plan of attack as that when the revolution began,
+instead of building mud forts and devastating the country, they might
+not only have suppressed the revolution, but the country would have
+been of some value when the war ended. As it is to-day, it will take
+ten years or more to bring it back to a condition of productiveness.
+
+The wholesale devastation of the island was an idea of General
+Weyler's. If the captain of a vessel, in order to put down a mutiny on
+board, scuttled the ship and sent everybody to the bottom, his plan of
+action would be as successful as General Weyler's has proved to be.
+After he had obtained complete control of the cities he decided to lay
+waste the country and starve the revolutionists into submission. So he
+ordered all pacíficos, as the non-belligerents are called, into the
+towns and burned their houses, and issued orders to have all fields
+where potatoes or corn were planted dug up and these food products
+destroyed.
+
+These pacificos are now gathered inside of a dead line, drawn one
+hundred and fifty yards around the towns, or wherever there is a fort.
+Some of them have settled around the forts that guard a bridge, others
+around the forts that guard a sugar plantation; wherever there are
+forts there are pacificos.
+
+In a word, the situation in Cuba is something like this: The Spaniards
+hold the towns, from which their troops daily make predatory raids,
+invariably returning in time for dinner at night. Around each town is a
+circle of pacificos doing no work, and for the most part starving and
+diseased, and outside, in the plains and mountains, are the insurgents.
+No one knows just where any one band of them is to-day or where it may
+be to-morrow. Sometimes they come up to the very walls of the fort,
+lasso a bunch of cattle and ride off again, and the next morning their
+presence may be detected ten miles away, where they are setting fire to
+a cane field or a sugar plantation.
+
+[Illustration: Guerrillas With Captured Pacíficos]
+
+This is the situation, so far as the inhabitants are concerned. The
+physical appearance of the country since the war began has changed
+greatly. In the days of peace Cuba was one of the most beautiful
+islands in the tropics, perhaps in the world. Its skies hang low and
+are brilliantly beautiful, with great expanses of blue, and in the
+early morning and before sunset, they are lighted with wonderful clouds
+of pink and saffron, as brilliant and as unreal as the fairy's grotto
+in a pantomime. There are great wind-swept prairies of high grass or
+tall sugar cane, and on the sea coast mountains of a light green, like
+the green of corroded copper, changing to a darker shade near the base,
+where they are covered with forests of palms.
+
+Throughout the extent of the island run many little streams, sometimes
+between high banks of rock, covered with moss and magnificent fern,
+with great pools of clear, deep water at the base of high waterfalls,
+and in those places where the stream cuts its way through the level
+plains double rows of the royal palm mark its course. The royal palm is
+the characteristic feature of the landscape in Cuba. It is the most
+beautiful of all palms, and possibly the most beautiful of all trees.
+The cocoanut palm, as one sees it in Egypt, picturesque as it is, has a
+pathetic resemblance to a shabby feather duster, and its trunk bends
+and twists as though it had not the strength to push its way through
+the air, and to hold itself erect. But the royal palm shoots up boldly
+from the earth with the grace and symmetry of a marble pillar or the
+white mast of a great ship. Its trunk swells in the centre and grows
+smaller again at the top, where it is hidden by great bunches of green
+plumes, like monstrous ostrich feathers that wave and bow and bend in
+the breeze as do the plumes on the head of a beautiful woman. Standing
+isolated in an open plain or in ranks in a forest of palms, this tree
+is always beautiful, noble and full of meaning. It makes you forget the
+ugly iron chimneys of the _centrals_, and it is the first and the
+last feature that appeals to the visitor in Cuba.
+
+But since the revolution came to Cuba the beauty of the landscape is
+blotted with the grim and pitiable signs of war. The sugar cane has
+turned to a dirty brown where the fire has passed through it, the
+_centrals_ are black ruins, and the adobe houses and the railroad
+stations are roofless, and their broken windows stare pathetically at
+you like blind eyes. War cannot alter the sunshine, but the smoke from
+the burning huts and the blazing corn fields seems all the more sad and
+terrible when it rises into such an atmosphere, and against so soft and
+beautiful a sky.
+
+People frequently ask how far the destruction of property in Cuba is
+apparent. It is so far apparent that the smoke of burning buildings is
+seldom absent from the landscape. If you stand on an elevation it is
+possible to see from ten to twenty blazing houses, and the smoke from
+the cane fields creeping across the plain or rising slowly to meet the
+sky. Sometimes the train passes for hours through burning districts,
+and the heat from the fields along the track is so intense that it is
+impossible to keep the windows up, and whenever the door is opened
+sparks and cinders sweep into the car. One morning, just this side of
+Jovellanos, all the sugar cane on the right side of the track was
+wrapped in white smoke for miles so that nothing could be distinguished
+from that side of the car, and we seemed to be moving through the white
+steam of a Russian bath.
+
+The Spaniards are no more to blame for this than are the insurgents;
+each destroy property and burn the cane. When an insurgent column finds
+a field planted with potatoes, it takes as much of the crop as it can
+carry away and chops up the remainder with machetes, to prevent it from
+falling into the hands of the Spaniards. If the Spaniards pass first,
+they act in exactly the same way.
+
+Cane is not completely destroyed if it is burned, for if it is at once
+cut down just above the roots, it will grow again. When peace is
+declared it will not be the soil that will be found wanting, nor the
+sun. It will be the lack of money and the loss of credit that will keep
+the sugar planters from sowing and grinding. And the loss of machinery
+in the _centrals_, which is worth in single instances hundreds of
+thousands of dollars, and in the aggregate many millions, cannot be
+replaced by men, who, even when their machinery was intact, were on the
+brink of ruin.
+
+Unless the United States government interferes on account of some one
+of its citizens in Cuba, and war is declared with Spain, there is no
+saying how long the present revolution may continue. For the Spaniards
+themselves are acting in a way which makes many people suspect that
+they are not making an effort to bring it to an end. The sincerity of
+the Spaniards in Spain is beyond question; the personal sacrifices they
+made in taking up the loans issued by the government are proof of their
+loyalty. But the Spaniards in Cuba are acting for their own interests.
+Many of the planters in order to save their fields and _centrals_
+from destruction, are unquestionably aiding the insurgents in secret,
+and though they shout "Viva España" in the cities, they pay out
+cartridges and money at the back door of their plantations.
+
+[Illustration: A Spanish Officer]
+
+It was because Weyler suspected that they were playing this double game
+that he issued secret orders that there should be no more grinding. For
+he knew that the same men who bribed him to allow them to grind would
+also pay blackmail to the insurgents for a like permission. He did not
+dare openly to forbid the grinding, but he instructed his officers in
+the field to visit those places where grinding was in progress and to
+stop it by some indirect means, such as by declaring that the laborers
+employed were suspects, or by seizing all the draught oxen ostensibly
+for the use of his army, or by insisting that the men employed must
+show a fresh permit to work every day, which could only be issued to
+them by some commandante stationed not less than ten miles distant from
+the plantation on which they were employed.
+
+And the Spanish officers, as well as the planters--the very men to whom
+Spain looks to end the rebellion--are chief among those who are keeping
+it alive. The reasons for their doing so are obvious; they receive
+double pay while they are on foreign service, whether they are fighting
+or not, promotion comes twice as quickly as in time of peace, and
+orders and crosses are distributed by the gross. They are also able to
+make small fortunes out of forced loans from planters and suspects, and
+they undoubtedly hold back for themselves a great part of the pay of
+the men. A certain class of Spanish officer has a strange sense of
+honor. He does not consider that robbing his government by falsifying
+his accounts, or by making incorrect returns of his expenses, is
+disloyal or unpatriotic. He holds such an act as lightly as many people
+do smuggling cigars through their own custom house, or robbing a
+corporation of a railroad fare. He might be perfectly willing to die
+for his country, but should he be permitted to live he will not
+hesitate to rob her.
+
+A lieutenant, for instance, will take twenty men out for their daily
+walk through the surrounding country and after burning a few huts and
+butchering a pacifico or two, will come back in time for dinner and
+charge his captain for rations for fifty men and for three thousand
+cartridges "expended in service." The captain vises his report, and the
+two share the profits. Or they turn the money over to the colonel, who
+recommends them for red enamelled crosses for "bravery on the field."
+The only store in Matanzas that was doing a brisk trade when I was
+there was a jewelry shop, where they had sold more diamonds and watches
+to the Spanish officers since the revolution broke out than they had
+ever been able to dispose of before to all the rich men in the city.
+The legitimate pay of the highest ranking officer is barely enough to
+buy red wine for his dinner, certainly not enough to pay for champagne
+and diamonds; so it is not unfair to suppose that the rebellion is a
+profitable experience for the officers, and they have no intention of
+losing the golden eggs.
+
+And the insurgents on the other side are equally determined to continue
+the conflict. From every point of view this is all that is left for
+them to do. They know by terrible experience how little of mercy or
+even of justice they may expect from the enemy, and, patriotism or the
+love of independence aside, it is better for them to die in the field
+than to risk the other alternative; a lingering life in an African
+penal settlement or the fusillade against the east wall of Cabañas
+prison. In an island with a soil so rich and productive as is that of
+Cuba there will always be roots and fruits for the insurgents to live
+upon, and with the cattle that they have hidden away in the laurel or
+on the mountains they can keep their troops in rations for an
+indefinite period. What they most need now are cartridges and rifles.
+Of men they have already more than they can arm.
+
+People in the United States frequently express impatience at the small
+amount of fighting which takes place in this struggle for liberty, and
+it is true that the lists of killed show that the death rate in battle
+is inconsiderable. Indeed, when compared with the number of men and
+women who die daily of small-pox and fever and those who are butchered
+on the plantations, the proportion of killed in battle is probably
+about one to fifteen.
+
+I have no statistics to prove these figures, but, judging from the
+hospital reports and from what the consuls tell of the many murders of
+pacificos, I judge that that proportion would be rather under than
+above the truth. George Bronson Rae, the _Herald_ correspondent,
+who was for nine months with Maceo and Gomez, and who saw eighty fights
+and was twice wounded, told me that the largest number of insurgents he
+had seen killed in one battle was thirteen.
+
+Another correspondent said that a Spanish officer had told him that he
+had killed forty insurgents out of four hundred who had attacked his
+column. "But how do you know you killed that many?" the correspondent
+asked. "You say you were never nearer than half a mile to them, and
+that you fell back into the town as soon as they ceased firing."
+
+[Illustration: Insurgents Firing on a Spanish Fort "One Shot for a
+Hundred"]
+
+"Ah, but I counted the cartridges my men had used," the officer
+replied. "I found they had expended four hundred. By allowing ten
+bullets to each man killed, I was able to learn that we had killed
+forty men."
+
+These stories show how little reason there is to speak of these
+skirmishes as battles, and it also throws some light on the Spaniard's
+idea of his own marksmanship. As a plain statement of fact, and without
+any exaggeration, one of the chief reasons why half the insurgents in
+Cuba are not dead to-day is because the Spanish soldiers cannot shoot
+well enough to hit them. The Mauser rifle, which is used by all the
+Spanish soldiers, with the exception of the Guardia Civile, is a most
+excellent weapon for those who like clean, gentlemanly warfare, in
+which the object is to wound or to kill outright, and not to "shock"
+the enemy nor to tear his flesh in pieces. The weapon has hardly any
+trajectory up to one thousand yards, but, in spite of its precision, it
+is as useless in the hands of a guerrilla or the average Spanish
+soldier as a bow and arrow would be. The fact that when the Spaniards
+say "within gun fire of the forts" they mean within one hundred and
+fifty yards of them shows how they estimate their own skill. Major
+Grover Flint, the _Journal_ correspondent, told me of a fight that
+he witnessed in which the Spaniards fired two thousand rounds at forty
+insurgents only two hundred yards away, and only succeeded in wounding
+three of them. Sylvester Scovel once explained this bad marksmanship to
+me by pointing out that to shift the cartridge in a Mauser, it is
+necessary to hold the rifle at an almost perpendicular angle, and close
+up under the shoulder. After the fresh cartridge has gone home the
+temptation to bring the butt to the shoulder before the barrel is level
+is too great for the Spanish Tommy, and, in his excitement, he fires
+most of his ammunition in the air over the heads of the enemy. He also
+fires so recklessly and rapidly that his gun often becomes too hot for
+him to handle it properly, and it is not an unusual sight to see him
+rest the butt on the ground and pull the trigger while the gun is in
+that position.
+
+On the whole, the Spanish soldiers during this war in Cuba have
+contributed little to the information of those who are interested in
+military science. The tactics which the officers follow are those which
+were found effective at the battle of Waterloo, and in the Peninsular
+campaign. When attacked from an ambush a Spanish column forms at once
+into a hollow square, with the cavalry in the centre, and the firing is
+done in platoons. They know nothing of "open order," or of firing in
+skirmish line. If the Cubans were only a little better marksmen than
+their enemies they should, with such a target as a square furnishes
+them, kill about ten men where they now wound one.
+
+With the war conducted under the conditions described here, there does
+not seem to be much promise of its coming to any immediate end unless
+some power will interfere. The Spaniards will probably continue to
+remain inside their forts, and the officers will continue to pay
+themselves well out of the rebellion.
+
+And, on the other hand, the insurgents who call themselves rich when
+they have three cartridges, as opposed to the one hundred and fifty
+cartridges that every Spanish soldier carries, will probably very
+wisely continue to refuse to force the issue in any one battle.
+
+[Illustration: *Fire and sword in Cuba]
+
+
+
+
+The Fate Of The Pacificos
+
+
+As is already well known in the United States, General Weyler issued an
+order some months ago commanding the country people living in the
+provinces of Pinar del Rio, Havana and Matanzas to betake themselves
+with their belongings to the fortified towns. His object in doing this
+was to prevent the pacificos from giving help to the insurgents, and
+from sheltering them and the wounded in their huts. So flying columns
+of guerrillas and Spanish soldiers were sent to burn these huts, and to
+drive the inhabitants into the suburbs of the cities. When I arrived in
+Cuba sufficient time had passed for me to note the effects of this
+order, and to study the results as they are to be found in the
+provinces of Havana, Matanzas and Santa Clara, the order having been
+extended to embrace the latter province.
+
+It looked then as though General Weyler was reaping what he had sown,
+and was face to face with a problem of his own creating. As far as a
+visitor could judge, the results of this famous order seemed to furnish
+a better argument to those who think the United States should interfere
+in behalf of Cuba, than did the fact that men were being killed there,
+and that both sides were devastating the island and wrecking property
+worth millions of dollars.
+
+The order, apart from being unprecedented in warfare, proved an
+exceedingly short-sighted one, and acted almost immediately after the
+manner of a boomerang. The able-bodied men of each family who had
+remained loyal or at least neutral, so long as they were permitted to
+live undisturbed on their few acres, were not content to exist on the
+charity of a city, and they swarmed over to the insurgent ranks by the
+hundreds, and it was only the old and infirm and the women and children
+who went into the towns, where they at once became a burden on the
+Spanish residents, who were already distressed by the lack of trade and
+the high prices asked for food.
+
+The order failed also in its original object of embarrassing the
+insurgents, for they are used to living out of doors and to finding
+food for themselves, and the destruction of the huts where they had
+been made welcome was not a great loss to men who, in a few minutes,
+with the aid of a machete, can construct a shelter from a palm tree.
+
+So the order failed to distress those against whom it was aimed, but
+brought swift and terrible suffering to those who were and are
+absolutely innocent of any intent against the government, as well as to
+the adherents of the government.
+
+It is easy to imagine what happened when hundreds of people, in some
+towns thousands, were herded together on the bare ground, with no food,
+with no knowledge of sanitation, with no covering for their heads but
+palm leaves, with no privacy for the women and young girls, with no
+thought but as to how they could live until to-morrow.
+
+It is true that in the country, also, these people had no covering for
+their huts but palm leaves, but those huts were made stoutly to endure.
+When a man built one of them he was building his home, not a shelter
+tent, and they were placed well apart from one another, with the free
+air of the plain or mountain blowing about them, with room for the sun
+to beat down and drink up the impurities, and with patches of green
+things growing in rows over the few acres. I have seen them like that
+all over Cuba, and I am sure that no disease could have sprung from
+houses built so admirably to admit the sun and the air.
+
+I have also seen them, I might add in parenthesis, rising in sluggish
+columns of black smoke against the sky, hundreds of them, while those
+who had lived in them for years stood huddled together at a distance,
+watching the flames run over the dry rafters of their homes, roaring
+and crackling with delight, like something human or inhuman, and
+marring the beautiful sunlit landscape with great blotches of red
+flames.
+
+The huts in which these people live at present lean one against the
+other, and there are no broad roads nor green tobacco patches to
+separate one from another. There are, on the contrary, only narrow
+paths, two feet wide, where dogs and cattle and human beings tramp over
+daily growing heaps of refuse and garbage and filth, and where malaria
+rises at night in a white winding sheet of poisonous mist.
+
+The condition of these people differs in degree; some are living the
+life of gypsies, others are as destitute as so many shipwrecked
+emigrants, and still others find it difficult to hold up their heads
+and breathe.
+
+[Illustration: A Spanish Guerrilla]
+
+In Jaruco, in the Havana province, a town of only two thousand
+inhabitants, the deaths from small-pox averaged seven a day for the
+month of December, and while Frederic Remington and I were there, six
+victims of small-pox were carried past us up the hill to the burying
+ground in the space of twelve hours. There were Spanish soldiers as
+well as pacificos among these, for the Spanish officers either know or
+care nothing about the health of their men.
+
+There is no attempt made to police these military camps, and in Jaruco
+the filth covered the streets and the plaza ankle-deep, and even filled
+the corners of the church which had been turned into a fort, and had
+hammocks swung from the altars. The huts of the pacíficos, with from
+four to six people in each, were jammed together in rows a quarter of a
+mile long, within ten feet of the cavalry barracks, where sixty men and
+horses had lived for a month. Next to the stables were the barracks. No
+one was vaccinated, no one was clean, and all of them were living on
+half rations.
+
+Jaruco was a little worse than the other towns, but I found that the
+condition of the people is about the same everywhere. Around every town
+and even around the forts outside of the towns, you will see from one
+hundred to five hundred of these palm huts, with the people crouched
+about them, covered with rags, starving, with no chance to obtain work.
+
+In the city of Matanzas the huts have been built upon a hill, and so
+far neither small-pox nor yellow fever has made headway there; but
+there is nothing for these people to eat, either, and while I was there
+three babies died from plain, old-fashioned starvation and no other
+cause.
+
+The government's report for the year just ended gives the number of
+deaths in three hospitals of Matanzas as three hundred and eighty for
+the year, which is an average of a little over one death a day. As a
+matter of fact, in the military hospital alone the soldiers during
+several months of last year died at the rate of sixteen a day. It seems
+hard that Spain should hold Cuba at such a sacrifice of her own people.
+
+In Cardenas, one of the principal seaport towns of the island, I found
+the pacíficos lodged in huts at the back of the town and also in
+abandoned warehouses along the water front. The condition of these
+latter was so pitiable that it is difficult to describe it correctly
+and hope to be believed.
+
+The warehouses are built on wooden posts about fifty feet from the
+water's edge. They were originally nearly as large in extent as Madison
+Square Garden, but the half of the roof of one has fallen in, carrying
+the flooring with it, and the adobe walls and one side of the sloping
+roof and the high wooden piles on which half of the floor once rested
+are all that remain.
+
+Some time ago an unusually high tide swept in under one of these
+warehouses and left a pool of water a hundred yards long and as many
+wide, around the wooden posts, and it has remained there undisturbed.
+This pool is now covered a half-inch thick with green slime, colored
+blue and yellow, and with a damp fungus spread over the wooden posts
+and up the sides of the walls.
+
+Over this sewage are now living three hundred women and children and a
+few men. The floor beneath them has rotted away, and the planks have
+broken and fallen into the pool, leaving big gaps, through which rise
+day and night deadly stenches and poisonous exhalations from the pool
+below.
+
+The people above it are not ignorant of their situation. They know that
+they are living over a death-trap, but there is no other place for
+them. Bands of guerrillas and flying columns have driven them in like
+sheep to this city, and, with no money and no chance to obtain work,
+they have taken shelter in the only place that is left open to them.
+
+With planks and blankets and bits of old sheet iron they have, for the
+sake of decency, put up barriers across these abandoned warehouses, and
+there they are now sitting on the floor or stretched on heaps of rags,
+gaunt and hollow-eyed. Outside, in the angles of the fallen walls, and
+among the refuse of the warehouses, they have built fireplaces, and,
+with the few pots and kettles they use in common, they cook what food
+the children can find or beg.
+
+One gentleman of Cardenas told me that a hundred of these people called
+at his house every day for a bit of food.
+
+Old negroes and little white children, some of them as beautiful, in
+spite of their rags, as any children I ever saw, act as providers for
+this hapless colony. They beg the food and gather the sticks and do the
+cooking. Inside the old women and young mothers sit on the rotten
+planks listless and silent, staring ahead of them at nothing.
+
+I saw the survivors of the Johnstown flood when the horror of that
+disaster was still plainly written in their eyes, but destitute as they
+were of home and food and clothing, they were in better plight than
+those fever-stricken, starving pacíficos, who have sinned in no way,
+who have given no aid to the rebels, and whose only crime is that they
+lived in the country instead of in the town. They are now to suffer
+because General Weyler, finding that he cannot hold the country as he
+can the towns, lays it waste and treats those who lived there with less
+consideration than the Sultan of Morocco shows to the murderers in his
+jail at Tangier. Had these people been guilty of the most unnatural
+crimes, their punishment could not have been more severe nor their end
+more certain.
+
+[Illustration: Murdering the Cuban Wounded]
+
+I found the hospital for this colony behind three blankets which had
+been hung across a corner of the warehouse. A young woman and a man
+were lying side by side, the girl on a cot and the man on the floor.
+The others sat within a few feet of them on the other side of the
+blankets, apparently lost to all sense of their danger, and too
+dejected and hopeless to even raise their eyes when I gave them money.
+
+A fat little doctor was caring for the sick woman, and he pointed
+through the cracks in the floor at the green slime below us, and held
+his fingers to his nose and shrugged his shoulders. I asked him what
+ailed his patients, and he said it was yellow fever, and pointed again
+at the slime, which moved and bubbled in the hot sun.
+
+He showed me babies with the skin drawn so tightly over their little
+bodies that the bones showed through as plainly as the rings under a
+glove. They were covered with sores, and they protested as loudly as
+they could against the treatment which the world was giving them,
+clinching their fists and sobbing with pain when the sore places came
+in contact with their mothers' arms. A planter who had at one time
+employed a large number of these people, and who was moving about among
+them, said that five hundred had died in Cardenas since the order to
+leave the fields had been issued. Another gentleman told me that in the
+huts at the back of the town there had been twenty-five cases of
+small-pox in one week, of which seventeen had resulted in death.
+
+I do not know that the United States will interfere in the affairs of
+Cuba, but whatever may happen later, this is what is likely to happen
+now, and it should have some weight in helping to decide the question
+with those whose proper business it is to determine it.
+
+Thousands of human beings are now herded together around the seaport
+towns of Cuba who cannot be fed, who have no knowledge of cleanliness
+or sanitation, who have no doctors to care for them and who cannot care
+for themselves.
+
+Many of them are dying of sickness and some of starvation, and this is
+the healthy season. In April and May the rains will come, and the fever
+will thrive and spread, and cholera, yellow fever and small-pox will
+turn Cuba into one huge plague spot, and the farmers' sons whom Spain
+has sent over here to be soldiers, and who are dying by the dozens
+before they have learned to pull the comb off a bunch of cartridges,
+are going to die by the hundreds, and women and children who are
+innocent of any offense will die with them, and there will be a
+quarantine against Cuba, and no vessel can come into her ports or leave
+them.
+
+All this is going to happen, I am led to believe, not from what I saw
+in any one village, but in hundreds of villages. It will not do to put
+it aside by saying that "War is war," and that "All war is cruel," or
+to ask, "Am I my brother's keeper?"
+
+In other wars men have fought with men, and women have suffered
+indirectly because the men were killed, but in this war it is the
+women, herded together in the towns like cattle, who are going to die,
+while the men, camped in the fields and the mountains, will live.
+
+It is a situation which charity might help to better, but in any event
+it is a condition which deserves the most serious consideration from
+men of common sense and judgment, and one not to be treated with
+hysterical head lines nor put aside as a necessary evil of war.
+
+
+[Illustration: Bringing in the Wounded]
+
+
+
+
+The Death Of Rodriguez
+
+
+Adolfo Rodríguez was the only son of a Cuban farmer, who lives nine
+miles outside of Santa Clara, beyond the hills that surround that city
+to the north.
+
+When the revolution broke out young Rodríguez joined the insurgents,
+leaving his father and mother and two sisters at the farm. He was
+taken, in December of 1896, by a force of the Guardia Civile, the corps
+d'élite of the Spanish army, and defended himself when they tried to
+capture him, wounding three of them with his machete.
+
+He was tried by a military court for bearing arms against the
+government, and sentenced to be shot by a fusillade some morning,
+before sunrise.
+
+Previous to execution, he was confined in the military prison of Santa
+Clara, with thirty other insurgents, all of whom were sentenced to be
+shot, one after the other, on mornings following the execution of
+Rodríguez.
+
+His execution took place the morning of the 19th of January, at a place
+a half-mile distant from the city, on the great plain that stretches
+from the forts out to the hills, beyond which Rodríguez had lived for
+nineteen years. At the time of his death he was twenty years old.
+
+I witnessed his execution, and what follows is an account of the way he
+went to death. The young man's friends could not be present, for it was
+impossible for them to show themselves in that crowd and that place
+with wisdom or without distress, and I like to think that, although
+Rodríguez could not know it, there was one person present when he died
+who felt keenly for him, and who was a sympathetic though unwilling
+spectator.
+
+There had been a full moon the night preceding the execution, and when
+the squad of soldiers marched out from town it was still shining
+brightly through the mists, although it was past five o'clock. It
+lighted a plain two miles in extent broken by ridges and gullies and
+covered with thick, high grass and with bunches of cactus and palmetto.
+In the hollow of the ridges the mist lay like broad lakes of water, and
+on one side of the plain stood the walls of the old town. On the other
+rose hills covered with royal palms that showed white in the moonlight,
+like hundreds of marble columns. A line of tiny camp fires that the
+sentries had built during the night stretched between the forts at
+regular intervals and burned brightly.
+
+But as the light grew stronger, and the moonlight faded, these were
+stamped out, and when the soldiers came in force the moon was a white
+ball in the sky, without radiance, the fires had sunk to ashes, and the
+sun had not yet risen.
+
+So, even when the men were formed into three sides of a hollow square,
+they were scarcely able to distinguish one another in the uncertain
+light of the morning.
+
+There were about three hundred soldiers in the formation. They belonged
+to the Volunteers, and they deployed upon the plain with their band in
+front, playing a jaunty quickstep, while their officers galloped from
+one side to the other through the grass, seeking out a suitable place
+for the execution, while the band outside the line still played
+merrily.
+
+A few men and boys, who had been dragged out of their beds by the
+music, moved about the ridges, behind the soldiers, half-clothed,
+unshaven, sleepy-eyed, yawning and stretching themselves nervously and
+shivering in the cool, damp air of the morning.
+
+Either owing to discipline or on account of the nature of their errand
+or because the men were still but half awake, there was no talking in
+the ranks, and the soldiers stood motionless, leaning on their rifles,
+with their backs turned to the town, looking out across the plain to
+the hills.
+
+The men in the crowd behind them were also grimly silent. They knew
+that whatever they might say would be twisted into a word of sympathy
+for the condemned man or a protest against the government. So no one
+spoke; even the officers gave their orders in gruff whispers, and the
+men in the crowd did not mix together, but looked suspiciously at one
+another and kept apart.
+
+As the light increased a mass of people came hurrying from the town
+with two black figures leading them, and the soldiers drew up at
+attention, and part of the double line fell back and left an opening in
+the square.
+
+With us a condemned man walks only the short distance from his cell to
+the scaffold or the electric chair, shielded from sight by the prison
+walls; and it often occurs even then that the short journey is too much
+for his strength and courage.
+
+[Illustration: Young Spanish Officer]
+
+But the merciful Spaniards on this morning made the prisoner walk for
+over a half-mile across the broken surface of the fields. I expected to
+find the man, no matter what his strength at other times might be,
+stumbling and faltering on this cruel journey, but as he came nearer I
+saw that he led all the others, that the priests on either side of him
+were taking two steps to his one, and that they were tripping on their
+gowns and stumbling over the hollows, in their efforts to keep pace
+with him as he walked, erect and soldierly, at a quick step in advance
+of them.
+
+He had a handsome, gentle face of the peasant type, a light, pointed
+beard, great wistful eyes and a mass of curly black hair. He was
+shockingly young for such a sacrifice, and looked more like a
+Neapolitan than a Cuban. You could imagine him sitting on the quay at
+Naples or Genoa, lolling in the sun and showing his white teeth when he
+laughed. He wore a new scapula around his neck, hanging outside his
+linen blouse.
+
+It seems a petty thing to have been pleased with at such a time, but I
+confess to have felt a thrill of satisfaction when I saw, as the Cuban
+passed me, that he held a cigarette between his lips, not arrogantly
+nor with bravado, but with the nonchalance of a man who meets his
+punishment fearlessly, and who will let his enemies see that they can
+kill but can not frighten him.
+
+It was very quickly finished, with rough, and, but for one frightful
+blunder, with merciful swiftness. The crowd fell back when it came to
+the square, and the condemned man, the priests and the firing squad of
+six young volunteers passed in and the line closed behind them.
+
+The officer who had held the cord that bound the Cuban's arms behind
+him and passed across his breast, let it fall on the grass and drew his
+sword, and Rodriguez dropped his cigarette from his lips and bent and
+kissed the cross which the priest held up before him.
+
+The elder of the priests moved to one side and prayed rapidly in a loud
+whisper, while the other, a younger man, walked away behind the firing
+squad and covered his face with his hands and turned his back. They had
+both spent the last twelve hours with Rodriguez in the chapel of the
+prison.
+
+The Cuban walked to where the officer directed him to stand, and turned
+his back to the square and faced the hills and the road across them
+which led to his father's farm.
+
+As the officer gave the first command he straightened himself as far as
+the cords would allow, and held up his head and fixed his eyes
+immovably on the morning light which had just begun to show above the
+hills.
+
+He made a picture of such pathetic helplessness, but of such courage
+and dignity, that he reminded me on the instant of that statue of
+Nathan Hale, which stands in the City Hall Park, above the roar of
+Broadway, and teaches a lesson daily to the hurrying crowds of
+moneymakers who pass beneath.
+
+The Cuban's arms were bound, as are those of the statue, and he stood
+firmly, with his weight resting on his heels like a soldier on parade,
+and with his face held up fearlessly, as is that of the statue. But
+there was this difference, that Rodriguez, while probably as willing to
+give six lives for his country as was the American rebel, being only a
+peasant, did not think to say so, and he will not, in consequence, live
+in bronze during the lives of many men, but will be remembered only as
+one of thirty Cubans, one of whom was shot at Santa Clara on each
+succeeding day at sunrise.
+
+The officer had given the order, the men had raised their pieces, and
+the condemned man had heard the clicks of the triggers as they were
+pulled back, and he had not moved. And then happened one of the most
+cruelly refined, though unintentional, acts of torture that one can
+very well imagine. As the officer slowly raised his sword, preparatory
+to giving the signal, one of the mounted officers rode up to him and
+pointed out silently what I had already observed with some
+satisfaction, that the firing squad were so placed that when they fired
+they would shoot several of the soldiers stationed on the extreme end
+of the square.
+
+Their captain motioned his men to lower their pieces, and then walked
+across the grass and laid his hand on the shoulder of the waiting
+prisoner.
+
+It is not pleasant to think what that shock must have been. The man had
+steeled himself to receive a volley of bullets in his back. He believed
+that in the next instant he would be in another world; he had heard the
+command given, had heard the click of the Mausers as the locks
+caught--and then, at that supreme moment, a human hand had been laid
+upon his shoulder and a voice spoke in his ear.
+
+You would expect that any man who had been snatched back to life in
+such a fashion would start and tremble at the reprieve, or would break
+down altogether, but this boy turned his head steadily, and followed
+with his eyes the direction of the officer's sword, then nodded his
+head gravely, and, with his shoulders squared, took up a new position,
+straightened his back again, and once more held himself erect.
+
+As an exhibition of self-control this should surely rank above feats of
+heroism performed in battle, where there are thousands of comrades to
+give inspiration. This man was alone, in the sight of the hills he
+knew, with only enemies about him, with no source to draw on for
+strength but that which lay within himself.
+
+[Illustration: The Cuban Martyrdom]
+
+The officer of the firing squad, mortified by his blunder, hastily
+whipped up his sword, the men once more leveled their rifles, the sword
+rose, dropped, and the men fired. At the report the Cuban's head
+snapped back almost between his shoulders, but his body fell slowly, as
+though some one had pushed him gently forward from behind and he had
+stumbled.
+
+He sank on his side in the wet grass without a struggle or sound, and
+did not move again.
+
+It was difficult to believe that he meant to lie there, that it could
+be ended so without a word, that the man in the linen suit would not
+get up on his feet and continue to walk on over the hills, as he
+apparently had started to do, to his home; that there was not a mistake
+somewhere, or that at least some one would be sorry or say something or
+run to pick him up.
+
+But, fortunately, he did not need help, and the priests returned--the
+younger one, with the tears running down his face--and donned their
+vestments and read a brief requiem for his soul, while the squad stood
+uncovered, and the men in hollow square shook their accoutrements into
+place, and shifted their pieces and got ready for the order to march,
+and the band began again with the same quickstep which the fusillade
+had interrupted.
+
+The figure still lay on the grass untouched, and no one seemed to
+remember that it had walked there of itself, or noticed that the
+cigarette still burned, a tiny ring of living fire, at the place where
+the figure had first stood.
+
+The figure was a thing of the past, and the squad shook itself like a
+great snake, and then broke into little pieces and started off
+jauntily, stumbling in the high grass and striving to keep step to the
+music.
+
+The officers led it past the figure in the linen suit, and so close to
+it that the file closers had to part with the column to avoid treading
+on it. Each soldier as he passed turned and looked down on it, some
+craning their necks curiously, others giving a careless glance, and
+some without any interest at all, as they would have looked at a house
+by the roadside or a passing cart or a hole in the road.
+
+One young soldier caught his foot in a trailing vine, and fell forward
+just opposite to it. He grew very red when his comrades giggled at him
+for his awkwardness. The crowd of sleepy spectators fell in on either
+side of the band. They had forgotten it, too, and the priests put their
+vestments back in the bag and wrapped their heavy cloaks about them,
+and hurried off after the others.
+
+Every one seemed to have forgotten it except two men, who came slowly
+toward it from the town, driving a bullock cart that bore an unplaned
+coffin, each with a cigarette between his lips, and with his throat
+wrapped in a shawl to keep out the morning mists.
+
+At that moment the sun, which had shown some promise of its coming in
+the glow above the hills, shot up suddenly from behind them in all the
+splendor of the tropics, a fierce, red disc of heat, and filled the air
+with warmth and light.
+
+The bayonets of the retreating column flashed in it, and at the sight
+of it a rooster in a farmyard near by crowed vigorously and a dozen
+bugles answered the challenge with the brisk, cheery notes of the
+reveille, and from all parts of the city the church bells jangled out
+the call for early mass, and the whole world of Santa Clara seemed to
+stir and stretch itself and to wake to welcome the day just begun.
+
+But as I fell in at the rear of the procession and looked back the
+figure of the young Cuban, who was no longer a part of the world of
+Santa Clara, was asleep in the wet grass, with his motionless arms
+still tightly bound behind him, with the scapula twisted awry across
+his face and the blood from his breast sinking into the soil he had
+tried to free.
+
+
+[Illustration: Regular Cavalryman--Spanish]
+
+
+
+
+Along The Trocha
+
+
+This is an account of a voyage of discovery along the Spanish trocha,
+the one at the eastern end of Cuba. It is the longer of the two, and
+stretches from coast to coast at the narrowest part of that half of the
+island, from Jucaro on the south to Moron on the north.
+
+Before I came to Cuba this time I had read in our newspapers about the
+Spanish trocha without knowing just what a trocha was. I imagined it to
+be a rampart of earth and fallen trees, topped with barbed wire; a
+Rubicon that no one was allowed to pass, but which the insurgents
+apparently crossed at will with the ease of little girls leaping over a
+flying skipping rope. In reality it seems to be a much more important
+piece of engineering than is generally supposed, and one which, when
+completed, may prove an absolute barrier to the progress of large
+bodies of troops unless they are supplied with artillery.
+
+I saw twenty-five of its fifty miles, and the engineers in charge told
+me that I was the first American, or foreigner of any nationality, who
+had been allowed to visit it and make drawings and photographs of it.
+Why they allowed me to see it I do not know, nor can I imagine either
+why they should have objected to my doing so. There is no great mystery
+about it.
+
+Indeed, what impressed me most concerning it was the fact that every
+bit of material used in constructing this backbone of the Spanish
+defence, this strategic point of all their operations, and their chief
+hope of success against the revolutionists, was furnished by their
+despised and hated enemies in the United States. Every sheet of armor
+plate, every corrugated zinc roof, every roll of barbed wire, every
+plank, beam, rafter and girder, even the nails that hold the planks
+together, the forts themselves, shipped in sections, which are numbered
+in readiness for setting up, the ties for the military railroad which
+clings to the trocha from one sea to the other--all of these have been
+supplied by manufacturers in the United States.
+
+This is interesting when one remembers that the American in the Spanish
+illustrated papers is represented as a hog, and generally with the
+United States flag for trousers, and Spain as a noble and valiant lion.
+Yet it would appear that the lion is willing to save a few dollars on
+freight by buying his armament from his hoggish neighbor, and that the
+American who cheers for Cuba Libre is not at all averse to making as
+many dollars as he can in building the wall against which the Cubans
+may be eventually driven and shot.
+
+If the insurgents have found as much difficulty in crossing the trocha
+by land as I found in reaching it by water, they are deserving of all
+sympathy as patient and long-suffering individuals.
+
+A thick jungle stretches for miles on either side of the trocha, and
+the only way of reaching it from the outer world is through the
+seaports at either end. Of these, Moron is all but landlocked, and
+Jucaro is guarded by a chain of keys, which make it necessary to reship
+all the troops and their supplies and all the material for the trocha
+to lighters, which meet the vessels six miles out at sea.
+
+A dirty Spanish steamer drifted with us for two nights and a day from
+Cienfuegos to Jucaro, and three hundred Spanish soldiers, dusty, ragged
+and barefooted, owned her as completely as though she had been a
+regular transport. They sprawled at full length over every deck, their
+guns were stacked in each corner, and their hammocks swung four deep
+from railings and riggings and across companionways, and even from the
+bridge itself. It was not possible to take a step without treading on
+one of them, and their hammocks made a walk on the deck something like
+a hurdle race.
+
+[Illustration: One of the Block Houses-From a photograph taken by Mr.
+Davis]
+
+With the soldiers, and crowding them for space, were the officers'
+mules and ponies, steers, calves and squealing pigs, while crates full
+of chickens were piled on top of one another as high as the hurricane
+deck, so that the roosters and the buglers vied with each other in
+continual contests. It was like traveling with a floating menagerie.
+Twice a day the bugles sounded the call for breakfast and dinner, and
+the soldiers ceased to sprawl, and squatted on the deck around square
+tin cans filled with soup or red wine, from which they fed themselves
+with spoons and into which they dipped their rations of hard tack,
+after first breaking them on the deck with a blow from a bayonet or
+crushing them with a rifle butt.
+
+The steward brought what was supposed to be a sample of this soup to
+the officer seated in the pilot house high above the squalor, and he
+would pick out a bean from the mess on the end of a fork and place it
+to his lips and nod his head gravely, and the grinning steward would
+carry the dish away.
+
+But the soldiers seemed to enjoy it very much, and to be content, even
+cheerful. There are many things to admire about the Spanish Tommy. In
+the seven fortified cities which I visited, where there were thousands
+of him, I never saw one drunk or aggressive, which is much more than
+you can say of his officers. On the march he is patient, eager and
+alert. He trudges from fifteen to thirty miles a day over the worst
+roads ever constructed by man, in canvas shoes with rope soles,
+carrying one hundred and fifty cartridges, fifty across his stomach and
+one hundred on his back, weighing in all fifty pounds.
+
+With these he has his Mauser, his blanket and an extra pair of shoes,
+and as many tin plates and bottles and bananas and potatoes and loaves
+of white bread as he can stow away in his blouse and knapsack. And this
+under a sun which makes even a walking stick seem a burden. In spite of
+his officers, and not on account of them, he maintains good discipline,
+and no matter how tired he may be or how much he may wish to rest on
+his plank bed, he will always struggle to his feet when the officers
+pass, and stand at salute. He gets very little in return for his
+efforts.
+
+One Sunday night, when the band was playing in the plaza, at a
+heaven-forsaken fever camp called Ciego de Avila, a group of soldiers
+were sitting near me on the grass enjoying the music. They loitered
+there a few minutes after the bugle had sounded the retreat to the
+barracks, and the officer of the day found them. When they stood up he
+ordered them to report themselves at the cartel under arrest, and then,
+losing all control of himself, lashed one little fellow over the head
+with his colonel's staff, while the boy stood with his eyes shut and
+with his lips pressed together, but holding his hand at salute until
+the officer's stick beat it down.
+
+These soldiers are from the villages and towns of Spain; some of them
+are not more than seventeen years old, and they are not volunteers.
+They do not care whether Spain owns an island eighty miles from the
+United States, or loses it, but they go out to it and have their pay
+stolen, and are put to building earth forts and stone walls, and die of
+fever. It seems a poor return for their unconscious patriotism when a
+colonel thrashes one of them as though he were a dog, especially as he
+knows the soldier may not strike back.
+
+The second night out the ship steward showed us a light lying low in
+the water, and told us that was Jucaro, and we accepted his statement
+and went over the side into an open boat, in which we drifted about
+until morning, while the colored man who owned the boat, and a little
+mulatto boy who steered it, quarreled as to where exactly the town of
+Jucaro might be. They brought us up at last against a dark shadow of a
+house, built on wooden posts, and apparently floating in the water.
+This was the town of Jucaro as seen at that hour of the night, and as
+we left it before sunrise the next morning, I did not know until my
+return whether I had slept in a stationary ark or on the end of a
+wharf.
+
+[Illustration: Spanish Cavalry-From photographs taken by Mr. Davis]
+
+We found four other men sleeping on the floor in the room assigned us,
+and outside, eating by a smoking candle, a young English boy, who
+looked up and laughed when he heard us speak, and said:
+
+"You've come at last, have you? You are the first white men I've seen
+since I came here. That's twelve months ago."
+
+He was the cable operator at Jucaro; and he sits all day in front of a
+sheet of white paper, and watches a ray of light play across an
+imaginary line, and he can tell by its quivering, so he says, all that
+is going on all over the world. Outside of his whitewashed cable office
+is the landlocked bay, filled with wooden piles to keep out the sharks,
+and back of him lies the village of Jucaro, consisting of two open
+places filled with green slime and filth and thirty huts. But the
+operator said that what with fishing and bathing and "Tit-Bits" and
+"Lloyd's Weekly Times," Jucaro was quite enjoyable. He is going home
+the year after this.
+
+"At least, that's how I put it," he explained. "My contract requires me
+to stop on here until December of 1898, but it doesn't sound so long if
+you say 'a year after this,' does it?" He had had the yellow fever, and
+had never, owing to the war, been outside of Jucaro. "Still," he added,
+"I'm seeing the world, and I've always wanted to visit foreign parts."
+
+As one of the few clean persons I met in Cuba, and the only contented
+one, I hope the cable operator at Jucaro will get a rise in salary
+soon, and some day see more of foreign parts than he is seeing at
+present, and at last get back to "the Horse Shoe, at the corner of
+Tottenham Court Road and Oxford street, sir," where, as we agreed,
+better entertainment is to be had on Saturday night than anywhere in
+London.
+
+In Havana, General Weyler had given me a pass to enter fortified
+places, which, except for the authority which the signature implied,
+meant nothing, as all the cities and towns in Cuba are fortified, and
+any one can visit them. It was as though Mayor Strong had given a man a
+permit to ride in all the cable cars attached to cables.
+
+It was not intended to include the trocha, but I argued that if a
+trocha was not a "fortified place" nothing else was, and I persuaded
+the commandante at Jucaro to take that view of it and to vise Weyler's
+order. So at five the following morning a box car, with wooden planks
+stretched across it for seats, carried me along the line of the trocha
+from Jucaro to Ciego, the chief military port on the fortifications,
+and consumed five hot and stifling hours in covering twenty-five miles.
+
+[Illustration: One of the Forts along the Trocha-From a photograph
+taken by Mr. Davis]
+
+The trocha is a cleared space, one hundred and fifty to two hundred
+yards wide, which stretches for fifty miles through what is apparently
+an impassable jungle. The trees which have been cut down in clearing
+this passageway have been piled up at either side of the cleared space
+and laid in parallel rows, forming a barrier of tree trunks and roots
+and branches as wide as Broadway and higher than a man's head. It would
+take a man some time to pick his way over these barriers, and a horse
+could no more do it than it could cross a jam of floating logs in a
+river.
+
+Between the fallen trees lies the single track of the military
+railroad, and on one side of that is the line of forts and a few feet
+beyond them a maze of barbed wire. Beyond the barbed wire again is he
+other barrier of fallen trees and the jungle. In its unfinished state
+this is not an insurmountable barricade. Gomez crossed it last November
+by daylight with six hundred men, and with but the loss of twenty-seven
+killed and as many wounded. To-day it would be more difficult, and in a
+few months, without the aid of artillery, it will be impossible, except
+with the sacrifice of a great loss of life. The forts are of three
+kinds. They are best described as the forts, the block houses and the
+little forts. A big fort consists of two stories, with a cellar below
+and a watch tower above. It is made of stone and adobe, and is painted
+a glaring white. One of these is placed at intervals of every half mile
+along the trocha, and on a clear day the sentry in the watch tower of
+each can see three forts on either side.
+
+Midway between the big forts, at a distance of a quarter of a mile from
+each, is a block house of two stories with the upper story of wood,
+overhanging the lower foundation of mud. These are placed at right
+angles to the railroad, instead of facing it, as do the forts.
+
+Between each block house and each fort are three little forts of mud
+and planks, surrounded by a ditch. They look something like a farmer's
+ice house as we see it at home, and they are about as hot inside as the
+other is cold. They hold five men, and are within hailing distance of
+one another. Back of them are three rows of stout wooden stakes, with
+barbed wire stretching from one row to the other, interlacing and
+crossing and running in and out above and below, like an intricate
+cat's cradle of wire.
+
+One can judge how closely knit it is by the fact that to every twelve
+yards of posts there are four hundred and fifty yards of wire fencing.
+The forts are most completely equipped in their way, but twelve men in
+the jungle would find it quite easy to keep twelve men securely
+imprisoned in one of them for an indefinite length of time.
+
+The walls are about twelve feet high, with a cellar below and a vault
+above the cellar. The roof of the vault forms a platform, around which
+the four walls rise to the height of a man's shoulder. There are
+loopholes for rifles in the sides of the vault, and where the platform
+joins the walls. These latter allow the men in the fort to fire down
+almost directly upon the head of any one who comes up close to the wall
+of the fort, where, without these holes in the floor, it would be
+impossible to fire on him except by leaning far over the rampart.
+
+Above the platform is an iron or zinc roof, supported by iron pillars,
+and in the centre of this is the watch tower. The only approach to the
+fort is by a movable ladder, which hangs over the side like the gangway
+of a ship of war, and can be raised by those on the inside by means of
+a rope suspended over a wheel in the roof. The opening in the wall at
+the head of the ladder is closed at the time of an attack by an iron
+platform, to which the ladder leads, and which also can be raised by a
+pulley. In October of 1897 the Spanish hope to have calcium lights
+placed in the watch towers of the forts with sufficient power to throw
+a searchlight over a quarter of a mile, or to the next block house, and
+so keep the trocha as well lighted as Broadway from one end to the
+other.
+
+As a further protection against the insurgents the Spaniards have
+distributed a number of bombs along the trocha, which they showed with
+great pride. These are placed at those points along the trocha where
+the jungle is less thickly grown, and where the insurgents might be
+expected to pass.
+
+Each bomb is fitted with an explosive cap, to which five or six wires
+are attached and staked down on the ground. Any one stumbling over one
+of these wires explodes the bomb and throws a charge of broken iron to
+a distance of fifty feet. How the Spaniards are going to prevent stray
+cattle and their own soldiers from wandering into these man-traps it is
+difficult to understand.
+
+[Illustration: The Trocha-From a photograph taken by Mr. Davis]
+
+The chief engineer in charge of the trocha detailed a captain to take
+me over it and to show me all that there was to see. The officers of
+the infantry and cavalry stationed at Ciego objected to his doing this,
+but he said: "He has a pass from General Weyler. I am not responsible."
+It was true that I had an order from General Weyler, but he had
+rendered it ineffective by having me followed about wherever I went by
+his police and spies. They sat next to me in the cafés and in the
+plazas, and when I took a cab they called the next one on the line and
+trailed after mine all around the city, until my driver would become
+alarmed for fear he, too, was suspected of something, and would take me
+back to the hotel.
+
+I had gotten rid of them at Cienfuegos by purchasing a ticket on the
+steamer to Santiago, three days further down the coast, and then
+dropping off in the night at the trocha, so while I was visiting it I
+expected to find that my non-arrival at Santiago had been reported, and
+word sent to the trocha that I was a newspaper correspondent. And
+whenever an officer spoke to the one who was showing me about, my
+camera appeared to grow to the size of a trunk, and to weigh like lead,
+and I felt lonely, and longed for the company of the cheerful cable
+operator at the other end of the trocha.
+
+But as I had seen Mr. Gillette in "Secret Service" only seventeen times
+before leaving New York, I knew just what to do, which was to smoke all
+the time and keep cool. The latter requirement was somewhat difficult,
+as Ciego de Avila is a hotter place than Richmond. Indeed, I can only
+imagine one place hotter than Ciego, and I have not been there.
+
+Ciego was an interesting town. During every day of the last rainy
+season an average of thirty soldiers and officers died there of yellow
+fever. While I was there I saw two soldiers, one quite an old man, drop
+down in the street as though they had been shot, and lie in the road
+until they were carried to the yellow fever ward of the hospital, under
+the black oilskin cloth of the stretchers.
+
+There was a very smart officers' club at Ciego well supplied with a bar
+and billiard tables, which I made some excuse for not entering, but
+which could be seen through its open doors, and I suggested to one of
+the members that it must be a comfort to have such a place, where the
+officers might go after their day's march on the mud banks of the
+trocha, and where they could bathe and be cool and clean. He said there
+were no baths in the club nor anywhere in the town. He added that he
+thought it might be a good idea to have them.
+
+The bath tub is the dividing line between savages and civilized beings.
+And when I learned that regiment after regiment of Spanish officers and
+gentlemen have been stationed in that town--and it was the dirtiest,
+hottest and dustiest town I ever visited--for eighteen months, and none
+of them had wanted a bath, I believed from that moment all the stories
+I had heard about their butcheries and atrocities, stories which I had
+verified later by more direct evidence.
+
+From a military point of view the trocha impressed me as a weapon which
+could be made to cut both ways. What the Spaniards think of it is shown
+by the caricature which appeared lately in "Don Quixote," and which
+shows the United States represented by a hog and the insurgents
+represented by a negro imprisoned in the trocha, while Weyler stands
+ready to turn the Spanish lion on them and watch it gobble them up.
+
+It would be unkind were Spain to do anything so inconsiderate, and
+besides, the United States is rather a large mouthful even without the
+insurgents who taken alone seem to have given the lion some pangs of
+indigestion.
+
+If the trocha were situated on a broad plain or prairie with a mile of
+clear ground on either side of it, where troops could manoeuvre, and
+which would prevent the enemy from stealing up to it unseen, it might
+be a useful line of defence. But at present, along its entire length,
+stretches this almost impassable barrier of jungle. Now suppose the
+troops are sent at short notice from the military camps along the line
+to protect any particular point?
+
+Not less than a thousand soldiers must be sent forward, and one can
+imagine what their condition would be were they forced to manoeuvre in
+a space one hundred and fifty yards broad, the half of which is taken
+up with barbed wire fences, fallen trees and explosive bomb shells.
+Only two hundred at the most could find shelter in the forts, which
+would mean that eight hundred men would be left outside the breastworks
+and scattered over a distance of a half mile, with a forest on both
+sides of them, from which the enemy could fire volley after volley into
+their ranks, protected from pursuit not only by the jungle, but by the
+walls of fallen trees which the Spaniards themselves have placed there.
+
+A trocha in an open plain, as were the English trochas in the desert
+around Suakin, makes an admirable defence, when a few men are forced to
+withstand the assault of a great many, but fighting behind a trocha in
+a jungle is like fighting in an ambush, and if the trocha at Moron is
+ever attacked in force it will prove to be a Valley of Death to the
+Spanish troops.
+
+[Illustration: Spanish Troops in Action]
+
+
+
+
+The Question Of Atrocities
+
+
+One of the questions that is most frequently asked of those who have
+been in Cuba is how much truth exists in the reports of Spanish
+butcheries. It is safe to say in answer to this that while the report
+of a particular atrocity may not be true, other atrocities just as
+horrible have occurred and nothing has been heard of them. I was
+somewhat skeptical of Spanish atrocities until I came to Cuba, chiefly
+because I had been kept sufficiently long in Key West to learn how
+large a proportion of Cuban war news is manufactured on the piazzas of
+the hotels of that town and of Tampa by utterly irresponsible newspaper
+men who accept every rumor that finds its way across the gulf, and pass
+these rumors on to some of the New York papers as facts coming direct
+from the field.
+
+It is not surprising that one becomes skeptical, for if one story
+proves to be false, how is the reader to know that the others are not
+inventions also? It is difficult to believe, for instance, the account
+of a horrible butchery if you read in the paragraph above it that two
+correspondents have been taken prisoners by the Spanish, when both of
+these gentlemen are sitting beside you in Key West and are, to your
+certain knowledge, reading the paragraph over your shoulder. Nor is it
+unnatural that one should grow doubtful of reported Cuban victories if
+he reads of the taking of Santa Clara and the flight of the Spanish
+garrison from that city, when he is living at Santa Clara and cannot
+find a Cuban in it with sufficient temerity to assist him to get out of
+it through the Spanish lines.
+
+But because a Jacksonville correspondent has invented the tale of one
+butchery, it is no reason why the people in the United States should
+dismiss all the others as sensational fictions. After I went to Cuba I
+refused for weeks to listen to tales of butcheries, because I did not
+believe in them and because there seemed to be no way of verifying
+them--those who had been butchered could not testify and their
+relatives were too fearful of the vengeance of the Spaniards to talk
+about what had befallen a brother or a father. But towards the end of
+my visit I went to Sagua la Grande and there met a number of Americans
+and Englishmen, concerning whose veracity there could be no question.
+What had happened to their friends and the laborers on their
+plantations was exactly what had happened and is happening to-day to
+other pacificos all over the island.
+
+Sagua la Grande is probably no worse a city than others in Cuba, but it
+has been rendered notorious by the presence in that city of the
+guerrilla chieftain, Benito Cerreros.
+
+Early in last December _Leslie's Illustrated Weekly_ published
+half-tone reproductions of two photographs which were taken in Sagua.
+One was a picture of the bodies of six Cuban pacificos lying on their
+backs, with their arms and legs bound and their bodies showing
+mutilation by machetes, and their faces pounded and hacked out of
+resemblance to anything human. The other picture was of a group of
+Spanish guerrillas surrounding their leader, a little man with a heavy
+mustache. His face was quite as inhuman as the face of any of the dead
+men he had mutilated. It wore a satisfied smile of fatuous vanity, and
+of the most diabolical cruelty. No artist could have drawn a face from
+his imagination which would have been more cruel. The letter press
+accompanying these photographs explained that this guerrilla leader,
+Benito Cerreros, had found six unarmed pacificos working in a field
+near Sagua, and had murdered them and then brought their bodies in a
+cart to that town, and had paid the local photographer to take a
+picture of them and of himself and his body guard. He claimed that he
+had killed the Cubans in open battle, but was so stupid as to forget to
+first remove the ropes with which he had bound them before he shot
+them. The photographs told the story without any aid from the letter
+press, and it must have told it to a great many people, judging from
+the number who spoke of it. It seemed as if, for the first time,
+something definite regarding the reported Spanish atrocities had been
+placed before the people of the United States, which they could see for
+themselves. I had this photograph in my mind when I came to Sagua, and
+on the night that I arrived there, by a coincidence, the townspeople
+were giving Cerreros a dinner to celebrate a fresh victory of his over
+two insurgents, a naturalized American and a native Cuban.
+
+The American was visiting the Cuban in the field, and they were lying
+in hiding outside of the town in a hut. The Cuban, who was a colonel in
+the insurgent army, had captured a Spanish spy, but had given him his
+liberty on the condition that he would go into Sagua and bring back
+some medicines. The colonel was dying of consumption, but he hoped
+that, with proper medicine, he might remain alive a few months longer.
+The spy, instead of keeping his word, betrayed the hiding place of the
+Cuban and the American to Cerreros, who rode out by night to surprise
+them. He took with him thirty-two guerrillas, and, lest that might not
+be enough to protect him from two men, added twelve of the Guarda
+Civile to their number, making forty-four men in all. They surrounded
+the hut in which the Cuban and the American were concealed, and shot
+them through the window as they sat at a table in the light of a
+candle. They then hacked the bodies with machetes. It was in
+recognition of this victory that the banquet was tendered to Cerreros
+by admiring friends.
+
+[Illustration: Amateur Surgery in Cuba]
+
+Civilized nations recognize but three methods of dealing with prisoners
+captured in war. They are either paroled or exchanged or put in prison;
+that is what was done with them in our rebellion. It is not allowable
+to shoot prisoners; at least it is not generally done when they are
+seated unconscious of danger at a table. It may be said, however, that,
+as these two men were in arms against the government, they were only
+suffering the punishment of their crime, and that this is not a good
+instance of an atrocity. There are, however, unfortunately, many other
+instances in which the victims were non-combatants and their death
+simply murder. But it is extremely difficult to tell convincingly of
+these cases, without giving names, and the giving of names might lead
+to more deaths in Sagua. It is also difficult to convince the reader of
+murders for which there seems to have been no possible object.
+
+And yet Cerreros and other guerrillas are murdering men and boys in the
+fields around Sagua as wantonly and as calmly as a gardener cuts down
+weeds. The stories of these butcheries were told to me by Englishmen
+and Americans who could look from their verandas over miles of fields
+that belonged to them, but who could not venture with safety two
+hundred yards from their doorsteps. They were virtually prisoners in
+their own homes, and every spot of ground within sight of their windows
+marked where one of their laborers had been cut down, sometimes when he
+was going to the next _central_ on an errand, or to carry the
+mail, and sometimes when he was digging potatoes or cutting sugar cane
+within sight of the forts. Passes and orders were of no avail. The
+guerrillas tore up the passes, and swore later that the men were
+suspects, and were at the moment of their capture carrying messages to
+the insurgents. The stories these planters told me were not dragged
+from them to furnish copy for a newspaper, but came out in the course
+of our talk, as we walked over the small extent which the forts allowed
+us.
+
+My host would say, pointing to one of the pacificos huddled in a corner
+of his machine shop: "That man's brother was killed last week about
+three hundred yards over there to the left while he was digging in the
+field." Or, in answer to a question from our consul, he would say: "Oh,
+that boy who used to take care of your horse--some guerrillas shot him
+a month ago." After you hear stories like these during an entire day,
+the air seems to be heavy with murder, and the very ground on which you
+walk smells of blood. It was the same in the town, where any one was
+free to visit the _cartel_, and view the murdered bodies of the
+pacíficos hacked and beaten and stretched out as a warning, or for
+public approbation. There were six so exposed while I was in Sagua. In
+Matanzas they brought the bodies to the Plaza at night when the band
+was playing, and the guerrillas marched around the open place with the
+bodies of eighteen Cubans swinging from the backs of ponies with their
+heads hanging down and bumping against the horses' knees. The people
+flocked to the sides of the Plaza to applaud this ghastly procession,
+and the men in the open cafés cheered the guerrilla chief and cried,
+"Long live Spain!"
+
+Speaking dispassionately, and with a full knowledge of the details of
+many butcheries, it is impossible for me to think of the Spanish
+guerrillas otherwise than as worse than savage animals. A wild animal
+kills to obtain food, and not merely for the joy of killing. These
+guerrillas murder and then laugh over it. The cannibal, who has been
+supposed hitherto to be the lowest grade of man, is really of a higher
+caste than these Spanish murderers--men like Colonel Fondevila,
+Cerreros, and Colonel Bonita--for a cannibal kills to keep himself
+alive. These men kill to feed their vanity, in order that they may pose
+as brave soldiers, and that their friends may give them banquets in
+hotel parlors.
+
+If what I say seems prejudiced and extravagant it may be well to insert
+this translation from a Spanish paper, _El Pais_:
+
+"There are signs of civilization among us; but the truth is that we are
+uncultured, barbaric and cruel. Although this may not be willingly
+acknowledged, the fact is that we are committing acts of savagery of
+which there is no counterpart in any other European country."
+
+[Illustration: Scouting Party of Spanish Cavalry]
+
+"Let us not say a word of the atrocities perpetrated at the Castle of
+Montjuich; of the iniquitous and miserable massacre of the Novelda
+republicans; of the shootings which occur daily in Manila; of the
+arbitrary imprisonments which are systematically made here. We wish now
+to say something of the respect due to the conquered, of generosity
+that should be shown to prisoners of war, for these are sentiments
+which exist even among savage people.
+
+"The Cuban exiles who disembark at Cadiz are sent on foot to the
+distant castle of Figueras. 'The unfortunate exiles,' a letter from
+Carpió says, 'passed here barefooted and bleeding, almost naked and
+freezing. At every town, far from finding rest for their fatigue, they
+are received with all sorts of insults; they are scoffed and provoked.
+I am indignant at this total lack of humanitarian sentiment and
+charity. I have two sons who are fighting against the Cuban insurgents;
+but this does not prevent me from denouncing those who ill-treat their
+prisoners. I have witnessed such outrages upon the unfortunate exiles
+that I do not hesitate to say that nothing like it has ever occurred in
+Africa.'"
+
+I do not wish what I have said concerning the Florida correspondents to
+be misunderstood as referring to those who are writing, and have
+written from the island of Cuba. They suffer from the "fakirs" even
+more than do the people of the United States who read the stories of
+both, and who confound the sensation-mongers with those who go to find
+the truth at the risk of their lives. For these latter do risk their
+lives, daily and hourly, when they go into these conflicts looking for
+the facts. I have not been in any conflict, so I can speak of these men
+without fear of being misunderstood.
+
+They are taking chances that no war correspondents ever took in any war
+in any part of the world. For this is not a war--it is a state of
+lawless butchery, and the rights of correspondents, of soldiers and of
+non-combatants are not recognized. Archibald Forbes, and "Bull Run"
+Russell and Frederick Villiers had great continental armies to protect
+them; these men work alone with a continental army against them. They
+risk capture at sea and death by the guns of a Spanish cruiser, and,
+escaping that, they face when they reach the island the greater danger
+of capture there and of being cut down by a guerrilla force and left to
+die in a road, or of being put in a prison and left to die of fever, as
+Govin was cut down, as Delgardo died in prison, as Melton is lying in
+prison now, where he will continue to lie until we have a Secretary of
+State who recognizes the rights of the correspondent as a
+non-combatant, or at least as an American citizen.
+
+The fate of these three American correspondents has not deterred others
+from crossing the lines, and they are in the field now, lying in swamps
+by day and creeping between the forts by night, standing under fire by
+the side of Gómez as they stood beside Maceo, going without food,
+without shelter, without the right to answer the attacks of the Spanish
+troops, climbing the mountains and crawling across the trochas,
+creeping to some friendly hut for a cup of coffee and to place their
+despatches in safe hands, and then going back again to run the gauntlet
+of Spanish spies and of flying columns and of the unspeakable
+guerrillas.
+
+When you sit comfortably at your breakfast in New York, with a
+policeman at the corner, and read the despatches which these gentlemen
+write of Cuban victories and their interviews with self-important Cuban
+chiefs, you should remember what it cost them to supply you with that
+addition to your morning's budget of news. Whether the result is worth
+the risk, or whether it is not paying too great a price, the greatest
+price of all, for too little, is not the question. The reckless bravery
+and the unselfishness of the correspondents in the field in Cuba to-day
+are beyond parallel.
+
+It is as dangerous to seek for Gómez as Stanley found it to seek for
+Livingston, and as few men return from the insurgent camps as from the
+Arctic regions.
+
+In case you do not read a New York paper, it is well that you should
+know that the names of these correspondents are Grover Flint, Sylvester
+Scovel and George Bronson Rae. I repeat, that as I could not reach the
+field, I can write thus freely of those who have been more successful.
+
+
+[Illustration: An Officer of Spanish Guerrillas]
+
+
+
+
+
+The Right of Search of American Vessels
+
+
+On the boat which carried me from Cuba to Key West were three young
+girls, who had been exiled for giving aid to the insurgents. The
+brother of one of them is in command of the Cuban forces in the field
+near Havana. More than once his sister had joined him there, and had
+seen fighting and carried back despatches to the Junta in Havana. For
+this she and two other young women, who were also suspected, were
+ordered to leave the island.
+
+I happened to sit next to this young lady at table on the steamer, and
+I found that she was not an Amazon nor a Joan of Arc nor a woman of the
+people, with a machete in one hand and a Cuban flag in the other. She
+was a well-bred, well-educated young person, speaking three languages.
+
+This is what the Spaniards did to these girls:
+
+After ordering them to leave the island on a certain day they sent
+detectives to the houses of each on the morning of that day and had
+them undressed and searched by a female detective to discover if they
+were carrying letters to the Junta at Key West or Tampa. They were
+searched thoroughly, even to the length of taking off their shoes and
+stockings. Later, when the young ladies stood at last on the deck of an
+American vessel, with the American flag hanging from the stern, the
+Spanish officers followed them there, and demanded that a cabin should
+be furnished them to which the girls might be taken, and they were then
+again undressed and searched by this woman for the second time.
+
+For the benefit of people with unruly imaginations, of whom there seem
+to be a larger proportion in this country than I had supposed, I will
+state again that the search of these women was conducted by women and
+not by men, as I was reported to have said, and as I did not say in my
+original report of the incident.
+
+Spanish officers, with red crosses for bravery on their chests and gold
+lace on their cuffs, strutted up and down while the search was going
+on, and chancing to find a Cuban suspect among the passengers, ordered
+him to be searched also, only they did not give him the privacy of a
+cabin, but searched his clothes and shoes and hat on the main deck of
+this American vessel before the other passengers and myself and the
+ship's captain and his crew.
+
+In order to leave Havana, it is first necessary to give notice of your
+wish to do so by sending your passport to the Captain General, who
+looks up your record, and, after twenty-four hours, if he is willing to
+let you go, visés your passport and so signifies that your request is
+granted. After you have complied with that requirement of martial law,
+and the Captain General has agreed to let you depart, and you are on
+board of an American vessel, the Spanish soldiers' control over you and
+your movements should cease, for they relinquish all their rights when
+they give you back your passport.
+
+At least the case of Barrundia justifies such a supposition. It was
+then shown that, while a passenger or a member of a crew is amenable to
+the "common laws" of the country in the port in which the vessel lies,
+he is not to be disturbed for political offenses against her
+government.
+
+When the officers of Guatemala went on board a vessel of the Pacific
+Mail line and arrested Barrundia, who was a revolutionist, and then
+shot him between decks, the American Minister, who had permitted this
+outrage, was immediately recalled, and the letter recalling him, which
+was written by James G. Blaine, clearly and emphatically sets forth
+the principle that a political offender is not to be molested on board
+of an American vessel, whether she is in the passenger trade or a ship
+of war.
+
+Prof. Joseph H. Beale, Jr., the professor of international law at
+Harvard, said in reference to the case of these women when I first
+wrote of it:
+
+"So long as a state of war has not been recognized by this country, the
+Spanish government has not the right to stop or search our vessels on
+the high seas for contraband of war or for any other purpose, nor would
+it have the right to subject American citizens or an American vessel in
+Cuban waters to treatment which would not be legal in the case of
+Spanish citizens or vessels.
+
+"But the Spanish government has the right in Cuba to execute upon
+American citizens or vessels any laws prevailing there, in the same way
+as they would execute them upon the Spaniards, unless they are
+prevented by the provisions of some treaty with the United States. The
+fact that the vessel in the harbor of Havana was flying a neutral flag
+could not protect it from the execution of Spanish law.
+
+"However unwise or inhuman the action of the Spanish authorities may
+have been in searching the women on board the _Olivette_, they
+appear to have been within their legal rights."
+
+[Illustration: A Spanish Picket Post]
+
+The Spanish Minister at Washington has also declared that his
+government has the right of search in the harbor of Havana. Hence in
+the face of two such authorities the question raised is probably
+answered from a legal point of view. But if that is the law, it would
+seem well to alter it, for it gives the Spanish authorities absolute
+control over the persons and property of Americans on American vessels,
+and that privilege in the hands of persons as unscrupulous and as
+insolent as are the Spanish detectives, is a dangerous one. So
+dangerous a privilege, indeed, that there is no reason nor excuse for
+not keeping an American ship of war in the harbor of Havana.
+
+For suppose that letters and despatches had been found on the persons
+of these young ladies, and they had been put on shore and lodged in
+prison; or suppose the whole ship and every one on board had been
+searched, as the captain of the _Olivette_ said the Spanish
+officers told him they might decide to do, and letters had been found
+on the Americans, and they had been ordered over the side and put into
+prison--would that have been an act derogatory to the dignity of the
+United States? Or are we to understand that an American citizen or a
+citizen of any country, after he has asked and obtained permission to
+leave Cuba and is on board of an American vessel, is no more safe there
+than he would be in the insurgent camp?
+
+The latter supposition would seem to be correct, and the matter to
+depend on the captain of the vessel and her owners, from whom he
+receives his instructions, and not to be one in which the United States
+government is in any way concerned. I do not believe the captain of a
+British passenger steamer would have allowed one of his passengers to
+be searched on the main deck of his vessel, as I saw this Cuban
+searched; nor even the captain of a British tramp steamer nor of a coal
+barge.
+
+The chief engineer of the _Olivette_ declared to me that in his
+opinion, "it served them just right," and the captain put a cabin at
+the disposal of the Spanish spies with eager humility. And when one of
+the detectives showed some disinclination to give back my passport, and
+I said I would keep him on board until he did it, the captain said:
+"Yes, you will, will you? I would like to see you try it," suggesting
+that he was master of his own ship and of my actions. But he was not.
+There is not an unwashed, garlicky, bediamonded Spanish spy in Cuba who
+has not more authority on board the _Olivette_ than her American
+captain and his subservient crew.
+
+Only a year ago half of this country was clamoring for a war with the
+greatest power it could have selected for that purpose. Yet Great
+Britain would have been the first to protect her citizens and their
+property and their self-respect if they had been abused as the
+self-respect and property and freedom of Americans have been abused by
+this fourth-rate power, and are being abused to-day.
+
+Before I went to Cuba I was as much opposed to our interfering there as
+any other person equally ignorant concerning the situation could be,
+but since I have seen for myself I feel ashamed that we should have
+stood so long idle. We have been too considerate, too fearful that as a
+younger nation, we should appear to disregard the laws laid down by
+older nations. We have tolerated what no European power would have
+tolerated; we have been patient with men who have put back the hand of
+time for centuries, who lie to our representatives daily, who butcher
+innocent people, who gamble with the lives of their own soldiers in
+order to gain a few more stars and an extra stripe, who send American
+property to the air in flames and murder American prisoners.
+
+The British lately sent an expedition of eight hundred men to the west
+coast of Africa to punish savage king who butchers people because it
+does not rain. Why should we tolerate Spanish savages merely because
+they call themselves "the most Catholic," but who in reality are no
+better than this naked negro? What difference is there between the King
+of Benin who crucifies a woman because he wants rain and General Weyler
+who outrages a woman for his own pleasure and throws her to his
+bodyguard of blacks, even if the woman has the misfortune to live after
+it--and to still live in Sagua la Grande to-day?
+
+If the English were right--and they were right--in punishing the King
+of Benin for murdering his subjects to propitiate his idols, we are
+right to punish these revivers of the Inquisition for starving women
+and children to propitiate an Austrian archduchess.
+
+It is difficult to know what the American people do want. They do not
+want peace, apparently, for their senators, some through an ignorant
+hatred of England and others through a personal dislike of the
+President, emasculated the arbitration treaty; and they do not want
+war, for, as some one has written, if we did not go to war with Spain
+when she murdered the crew of the _Virginius,_ we never will.
+
+[Illustration: General Weyler in the Field]
+
+But if the executive and the legislators wish to assure themselves,
+like "Fighting Bob Acres," that they have some right on their side,
+they need not turn back to the _Virginius_ incident. There are
+reasons enough to-day to justify their action, if it is to be their
+intellects and not their feelings that must move them to act. American
+property has been destroyed by Spanish troops to the amount of many
+millions, and no answer made to demands of the State Department for an
+explanation. American citizens have been imprisoned and shot--some
+without a trial, some in front of their own domiciles, and American
+vessels are turned over to the uses of the Spanish secret police. These
+would seem to be sufficient reasons for interfering.
+
+But why should we not go a step farther and a step higher, and
+interfere in the name of humanity? Not because we are Americans, but
+because we are human beings, and because, within eighty miles of our
+coast, Spanish officials are killing men and women as wantonly as
+though they were field mice, not in battle, but in cold blood--cutting
+them down in the open roads, at the wells to which they have gone for
+water, or on their farms, where they have stolen away to dig up a few
+potatoes, having first run the gauntlets of the forts and risked their
+lives to obtain them.
+
+This is not an imaginary state of affairs, nor are these supposititious
+cases. I am writing only of the things I have heard from eye witnesses
+and of some of the things that I have seen.
+
+President Cleveland declared in his message to Congress: "When the
+inability of Spain to deal successfully with the insurgents has become
+manifest, and it is demonstrated that her sovereignty is extinct in
+Cuba for all purposes of its rightful existence, and when a hopeless
+struggle for its re-establishment has degenerated into a strife which
+is nothing more than the useless sacrifice of human life and the utter
+destruction of the very subject-matter of the conflict, a situation
+will be presented in which our obligations to the sovereignty of Spain
+will be superseded by higher obligations, which we can hardly hesitate
+to recognize and discharge!"
+
+These conditions are now manifest. A hopeless struggle for sovereignty
+has degenerated into a strife which means not the useless, but the
+wanton sacrifice of human life, and the utter destruction of the
+subject-matter of the conflict.
+
+What further manifestations are needed? Is it that the American people
+doubt the sources from which their information comes? They are the
+consuls all over the island of Cuba. For what voice crying in the
+wilderness are they still waiting? What will convince them that the
+time has come?
+
+If the United States is to interfere in this matter she should do so at
+once, but she should only do so after she has informed herself
+thoroughly concerning it. She should not act on the reports of the
+hotel piazza correspondents, but send men to Cuba on whose judgment and
+common sense she can rely. General Fitzhugh Lee is one of these men,
+and there is no better informed American on Cuban matters than he, nor
+one who sees more clearly the course which our government should
+pursue. Through the consuls all over the island, he is in touch with
+every part of it, and in daily touch; but incidents which are
+frightfully true there seem exaggerated and overdrawn when a
+typewritten description of them reaches the calm corridors of the State
+Department.
+
+More men like Lee should go to Cuba to inform themselves, not men who
+will stop in Havana and pick up the gossip of the Hotel Ingleterra, but
+who will go out into the cities and sugar plantations and talk to the
+consuls and merchants and planters, both Spanish and American; who can
+see for themselves the houses burning and the smoke arising from every
+point of the landscape; who can see the bodies of "pacificos" brought
+into the cities, and who can sit on a porch of an American planter's
+house and hear him tell in a whisper how his sugar cane was set on fire
+by the same Spanish soldiers who surround the house, and who are
+supposed to guard his property, but who, in reality, are there to keep
+a watch on him.
+
+He should hear little children, born of American parents, come into the
+consulate and ask for a piece of bread. He should see the children and
+the women herded in the towns or walking the streets in long
+processions, with the Mayor at their head, begging his fellow Spaniards
+to give them food, the children covered with the red blotches of
+small-pox and the women gaunt with yellow fever. He should see hundreds
+of thousands of dollars' worth of machinery standing idle, covered with
+rust and dirt, or lying twisted and broken under fallen walls. He will
+learn that while one hundred and fifty-six vessels came into the port
+of Matanzas in 1894, only eighty-eight came in 1895, and that but
+sixteen touched there in 1896, and that while the export of sugar from
+that port to the United States in 1894 amounted to eleven millions of
+dollars, in 1895 it sank to eight millions of dollars, and in 1896 it
+did not reach one million. I copied these figures one morning from the
+consular books, and that loss of ten millions of dollars in two years
+in one little port is but a sample of the facts that show what chaos
+this war is working.
+
+[Illustration: Spanish Cavalryman on a Texas Broncho]
+
+In three weeks any member of the Senate or of Congress who wishes to
+inform himself on this reign of terror in Cuba can travel from one end
+of this island to the other and return competent to speak with absolute
+authority. No man, no matter what his prejudices may be, can make this
+journey and not go home convinced that it is his duty to try to stop
+this cruel waste of life and this wanton destruction of a beautiful
+country.
+
+A reign of terror sounds hysterical, but it is an exact and truthful
+descriptive phrase of the condition in Cuba. Insurgents and Spaniards
+alike are laying waste the land, and neither side shows any sign of
+giving up the struggle. But while the men are in the field fighting
+after their fashion, for the independence of the island, the old men
+and the infirm and the women and children, who cannot help the cause or
+themselves, and who are destitute and starving and dying, have their
+eyes turned toward the great republic that lies only eighty miles away,
+and they are holding out their hands and asking "How long, O, Lord, how
+long?"
+
+Or if the members of the Senate and of Congress can not visit Cuba, why
+will they not listen to those who have been there? Of three men who
+traveled over the island, seeking the facts concerning it, two
+correspondents and an interpreter, two of the three were for a time in
+Spanish hospitals, covered with small-pox. Of the three, although we
+were together until they were taken ill, I was the only one who escaped
+contagion.
+
+If these other men should die, they die because they tried to find out
+the truth. Is it likely, having risked such a price for it that they
+would lie about what they have seen?
+
+They could have invented stories of famine and disease in Havana. They
+need not have looked for the facts where they were to be found, in the
+seaports and villages and fever camps. Why not listen to these men or
+to Stephen Bonsai, of the _New York Herald_, in whom the late
+President showed his confidence by appointing him to two diplomatic
+missions?
+
+Why not listen to C.E. Akers, of the _London Times_, and
+_Harper's Weekly_, who has held two commissions from the Queen?
+Why disregard a dozen other correspondents who are seeking the truth,
+and who urge in every letter which they write that their country should
+stop this destruction of a beautiful land and this butchery of harmless
+non-combatants?
+
+The matter lies at the door of Congress. Each day's delay means the
+death of hundreds of people, every hour sees fresh blood spilled, and
+more houses and more acres of crops sinking into ashes. A month's delay
+means the loss to this world of thousands of lives, the unchecked
+growth of terrible diseases, and the spreading devastation of a great
+plague.
+
+[Illustration: For Cuba Libre]
+
+It would be an insult to urge political reasons, or the sure approval
+of the American people which the act of interference would bring, or
+any other unworthy motive. No European power dare interfere, and it
+lies with the United States and with her people to give the signal. If
+it is given now it will save thousands of innocent lives; if it is
+delayed just that many people will perish.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Cuba in War Time, by Richard Harding Davis
+
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