diff options
Diffstat (limited to '8106-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/8106-h.htm | 21645 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-01.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39755 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-02.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112584 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-02to04.jpg | bin | 0 -> 126789 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-03.jpg | bin | 0 -> 196442 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-04.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138487 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-05.jpg | bin | 0 -> 184405 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-06.jpg | bin | 0 -> 129167 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-07.jpg | bin | 0 -> 140906 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-08.jpg | bin | 0 -> 53902 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-09.jpg | bin | 0 -> 67350 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-10.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41961 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-11.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42738 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-12a.jpg | bin | 0 -> 62330 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-12b.jpg | bin | 0 -> 48597 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-13.jpg | bin | 0 -> 253333 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-14.jpg | bin | 0 -> 47496 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-15.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41246 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/Cook-16.jpg | bin | 0 -> 307926 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-01.jpg | bin | 0 -> 39755 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-02.jpg | bin | 0 -> 112584 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-02to04.jpg | bin | 0 -> 126789 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-03.jpg | bin | 0 -> 196442 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-04.jpg | bin | 0 -> 138487 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-05.jpg | bin | 0 -> 184405 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-06.jpg | bin | 0 -> 129167 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-07.jpg | bin | 0 -> 140906 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-08.jpg | bin | 0 -> 53902 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-09.jpg | bin | 0 -> 67350 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-10.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41961 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-11.jpg | bin | 0 -> 42738 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-12a.jpg | bin | 0 -> 62330 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-12b.jpg | bin | 0 -> 48597 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-13.jpg | bin | 0 -> 253333 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-14.jpg | bin | 0 -> 47496 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-15.jpg | bin | 0 -> 41246 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 8106-h/images/cook-16.jpg | bin | 0 -> 307926 bytes |
37 files changed, 21645 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/8106-h/8106-h.htm b/8106-h/8106-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e460247 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/8106-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,21645 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Captain Cook's Journal During the First Voyage Round the World</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font:smaller} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font:bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Captain Cook's Journal During the First +Voyage Round the World, by James Cook + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Captain Cook's Journal During the First Voyage Round the World + +Author: James Cook + +Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8106] +Last Updated: August 24, 2012 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<h2>CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL.<br> +FIRST VOYAGE.</h2> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-01"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-01.jpg"></p> +<h5>PLATE: PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK WITH A FACSIMILE OF HIS SIGNATURE.<br> +Collotype, Waterlow & Sons Ltd.</h5> +</center> + +<p> </p> +<h2>CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL<br> +DURING HIS<br> +FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD<br> +MADE IN<br> +H.M. BARK "ENDEAVOUR"<br> +1768-71<br> +A Literal Transcription of the Original MSS.<br> +WITH<br> +NOTES AND INTRODUCTION<br> +EDITED BY<br> +CAPTAIN W.J.L. WHARTON, R.N., F.R.S.<br> +Hydrographer of the Admiralty.<br> +Illustrated by Maps and Facsimiles.</h2> + +<h4>LONDON<br> +ELLIOT STOCK, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW<br> +1893</h4> + +<h4>43931</h4> + +<h3>DEDICATED BY PERMISSION<br> +TO<br> +ADMIRAL H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH,<br> +K.G., ETC.,<br> +WHOSE DEEP INTEREST IN ALL MATTERS CONNECTED WITH<br> +THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF THE BRITISH NAVY<br> +IS WELL KNOWN TO ALL WHO HAVE HAD<br> +THE PRIVILEGE OF SERVING WITH HIM.</h3> +<p> </p> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>STRANGE it must appear that the account of perhaps the most celebrated +and, certainly to the English nation, the most momentous voyage of +discovery that has ever taken place--for it practically gave birth to the +great Australasian Colonies--has never before been given to the world in +the very words of its great leader. It has fallen out in this wise.</p> + +<p>After the return of the Endeavour it was decided that a full and +comprehensive account of the voyage should be compiled. COOK'S JOURNAL +dealt with matters from the point of view of the seaman, the explorer, +and the head of the expedition, responsible for life, and for its general +success. The Journals of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander looked from the +scientific side on all that presented itself to their enthusiastic +observation.</p> + +<p>What could be better than to combine these accounts, and make up a +complete narrative from them all?</p> + +<p>The result, however, according to our nineteenth-century ideas, was not +altogether happy. Dr. Hawkesworth, into whose hands the Journals were +put, not only interspersed reflections of his own, but managed to impose +his own ponderous style upon many of the extracts from the united +Journals; and, moreover, as they are all jumbled together, the whole +being put into Cook's mouth, it is impossible to know whether we are +reading Cook, Banks, Solander, or Hawkesworth himself.</p> + +<p>The readers of the day were not, however, critical. Hawkesworth's book,* +(* "Hawkesworth's Voyages" 3 volumes quarto 1773.) which undoubtedly +contains all the most generally interesting passages of the three +writers, gave a clear description of the events of the voyage in a +connected manner, and was accepted as sufficient; and in the excitement +of devouring the pages which introduced so many new lands and peoples, +probably few wished for more, and the Journals were put away as dealt +with.</p> + +<p>Since that time it has been on several occasions in contemplation to +publish Mr. (after Sir Joseph) Banks' Journal; but this has never been +accomplished.</p> + +<p>Cook's Journal was in triplicate. The Admiralty Orders of the day +enjoined that the captain should keep a journal of proceedings, a copy of +which was to be forwarded to the Admiralty every six months, or as soon +after as possible. In the case of this voyage the ship was two and a half +years from England before any opportunity of sending this copy occurred. +The ship was the whole of this time in new and savage lands. When Batavia +was reached the duplicate of Cook's Journal was sent home, and six months +later, when the ship arrived in England, the full Journal of the voyage +was deposited at the Admiralty.</p> + +<p>The Secretary of the Admiralty, Sir Philip Stephens, a personal friend +and appreciator of Cook, appears to have appropriated the Batavia +duplicate, as we find it in the hands of his descendants, and passing +thence by sale, first to Mr. Cosens in 1868, and then in 1890 to Mr. John +Corner.</p> + +<p>The other and complete copy is still in possession of the Admiralty, +though in some unexplained manner it was absent for some years, and was +only recovered by the exertions of Mr. W. Blakeney, R.N.</p> + +<p>A third copy of the Journal also terminates a few days before reaching +Batavia. It is in the possession of Her Majesty the Queen, and from its +appearance was kept for, and probably presented to, George III, who took +great interest in the voyage.</p> + +<p>Neither private possessors nor the Admiralty have felt moved to publish +this interesting document until Mr. Corner acquired his copy, when, being +an enthusiastic admirer of Captain Cook, he determined to do so, and was +making preliminary arrangements, when he suddenly died, after a few +hours' illness. His son, anxious to carry out his father's wishes, which +included the devotion of any proceeds to the restoration of Hinderwell +Church--the parish church of Staithes, whence Cook ran away to sea--has +completed these arrangements, and the present volume is the result.</p> + +<p>The text is taken from Mr. Corner's copy so far as it goes, paragraphs +from the Admiralty copy, which do not appear in the former, being added, +with a notation of their source.</p> + +<p>The last portion, from October 23rd, 1770, which is only given in the +Admiralty copy, is necessarily taken from it.</p> + +<p>The three copies are, practically, identical, except for the period +August 13th to 19th, 1770, during which the wording is often different, +though the events are the same.</p> + +<p>It is not very difficult to account for this.</p> + +<p>The two first-mentioned Journals are in the handwriting of an amanuensis, +Mr. Orton, the clerk. No autograph journal is, so far as is known, in +existence, but some rough original must have been kept, as both copies +bear internal evidence of having been written up after the lapse of an +interval after the events described.</p> + +<p>This is markedly the case in the Australian part of the Journal.</p> + +<p>It is known that Botany Bay was at first called by Cook, Stingray Bay, on +account of the number of rays caught there; but after Banks had examined +his collection, and found all his plants new to science, Cook determined +to call it Botany Bay. It is, however, called Botany Bay from the first +in the Journals.</p> + +<p>The name, "New South Wales," was not bestowed without much consideration, +and apparently at one stage New Wales was the appellation fixed upon, for +in Mr. Corner's copy it is so called throughout, whereas the Admiralty +copy has "New South Wales."</p> + +<p>It would therefore seem that about the period of the discrepant accounts +Mr. Corner's copy was first made, and that Cook, in the Admiralty copy, +which for this part is fuller, revised the wording of his description of +this very critical portion of the voyage.</p> + +<p>The Queen's Copy has been written with especial care, and by several +different hands. It was evidently the last in point of time.</p> + +<p>In reading COOK'S JOURNAL of his First Voyage it must be remembered that +it was not prepared for publication. Though no doubt the fair copies we +possess were revised with the care that characterises the man, and which +is evidenced by the interlineations and corrections in his own hand with +which the pages are dotted, it may be supposed, from the example we have +in the published account of his Second Voyage, which was edited by +himself, that further alterations and additions would have been made, to +make the story more complete, had he contemplated its being printed.</p> + +<p>This does not, however, in any way detract from the interest of a +transcript of his record on the spot; and though many circumstances +recorded in Hawkesworth, from Banks or others, will not be found, it is +probable that an exact copy of the great navigator's own impressions, and +the disentanglement of them from the other interpolated matter, will be +welcome.</p> + +<p>In printing this Journal the only alterations that have been made are the +breaking-up into chapters, with modern headings; the addition of +punctuation; and in the form of the insertion of the daily record of +wind, weather, and position of the ship. These in the original are on the +left hand page in log form. To save space they have been placed at the +end of every day's transactions.</p> + +<p>The eccentricities in the spelling have been preserved. A good many of +these would seem to be due to Mr. Orton, the transcriber, as Cook's own +letters are generally correct in their orthography. The use of the +capital letter was usual at the time.</p> + +<p>References will be found to sketches and plans which have not been +reproduced.</p> + +<p>Cook's knack of finding names for localities was peculiarly happy. Those +who have had to do this, know the difficulty. Wherever he was able to +ascertain the native name, he adopts it; but in the many cases where this +was impossible, he manages to find a descriptive and distinctive +appellation for each point, bay, or island.</p> + +<p>He seems to have kept these names very much to himself, as it is seldom +the officers' logs know anything of them; and original plans, still in +existence, in many cases bear different names to those finally pitched +upon.</p> + +<p>Cook's names have rarely been altered, and New Zealand and Australian +places will probably for all time bear those which he bestowed.</p> + +<p>In the orthography of his native names he was not so successful. The +constant addition of a redundant "o" has altered many native sounds, such +as Otaheite for Tahiti, Ohwhyhee for Hawaii; while his spelling generally +has been superseded by more simple forms. This is a matter, however, in +which great difficulties are found to the present day by Englishmen, +whose language presents no certain laws for rendering any given sound +into a fixed combination of letters.</p> + +<p>Cook's language is unvarnished and plain, as a sailor's should be. His +incidents, though often related with circumstance, are without +exaggeration; indeed if any fault is to be found, it is that he takes +occurrences involving much labour and hardship as such matters of course, +that it is not easy for the reader, especially if he be a landsman, to +realise what they really entail.</p> + +<p>Cook was assiduous in obtaining observations to ascertain the Variation +of the compass--i.e., the difference between the direction shown by the +magnetic needle and the true north. He is constantly puzzled by the +discrepancies in these observations made at short intervals. These arose +from the different positions of the ship's head, whereby the iron within +a certain distance of the compass is placed in different positions as +regards the needle working the compass card, the result being that the +needle is attracted from its correct direction in varying degree. This is +known as the Deviation of the compass. The cause of this, and of the laws +which govern it, were only discovered by Captain Flinders in 1805. +Happily for the navigators of those days, little iron entered into the +construction of ships, and the amount of the Deviation was not large, +though enough to cause continual disquiet and wonderment.</p> + +<p>Cook's longitudes in this voyage are all given as west of Greenwich, not +divided into east and west, as is usual at this day. The latter system +again has only been adopted universally since his time.</p> + +<p>Though Cook himself gives, at the beginning of the Journal, a note of the +method of reckoning days adopted, it may not be amiss to give further +explanation here.</p> + +<p>It was the usual custom on board ships to keep what was known as Ship +time--i.e., the day began at noon BEFORE the civil reckoning, in which +the day commences at midnight. Thus, while January 1st, as ordinarily +reckoned, is from midnight to midnight, in ship time it began at noon on +December 31st and ended at noon January 1st, this period being called +January 1st. Hence the peculiarity all through the Journal of the p.m. +coming before the a.m. It results that any events recorded as occurring +in the p.m. of January 1st in the log, would, if translated into the +ordinary system, be given as happening in the p.m. of December 31st; +while occurrences in the a.m. of January 1st would be equally in the a.m. +of January 1st in both systems.</p> + +<p>This puzzling mode of keeping the day at sea continued to a late period, +and was common to seamen of all nations.</p> + +<p>The astronomical day, again, begins at noon AFTER the midnight at which +the civil day begins, and hence is a whole day later than the ship's day. +This does not enter into Cook's Journal, but one of the logs of the +Endeavour, extant, that of Mr. Green the astronomer, was kept in this +time, and the events of say Thursday, June 24th, of Cook's Journal, are +therein given as happening on Wednesday, June 23rd. These differences of +reckoning have been a fertile source of confusion in dates in many +voyages.</p> + +<p>Besides Cook's Journals there are other Journals and Logs of the voyage +extant. Perhaps it may be necessary to state that a Log is the official +document in which the progress of the ship from hour to hour is recorded, +with such official notes as the alteration in sail carried, expenditure +of provisions and stores, etc. A Journal contains this information in a +condensed form, with such observations as the officer keeping it may feel +inclined to insert.</p> + +<p>The ship's Log Book of the Endeavour is in the British Museum. Mr. R.M. +Hudson of Sunderland possesses Cook's own log, not autograph however, +presented by Cook to Sir Hugh Palliser, the ancestor of his wife.</p> + +<p>The Journals of all the officers of the Endeavour are preserved at the +Public Record Office. There is, however, nothing to be got out of them, +as they are mainly copies one of the other, founded on the ship's log.</p> + +<p>The portion of Mr. Molineux's, the Master's, Log that exists (at the +Admiralty) is a most beautifully kept and written document, enriched with +charts and sketches that attest the accuracy of Cook's remark, that he +was a "young man of good parts."</p> + +<p>The log kept by Mr. Green, however, does contain a few original remarks, +some of which have been made use of. This book contains a mass of +astronomical observations, and witnesses to the zeal of this gentleman in +his especial duty.</p> + +<p>He records in one place, when far away from land, his disgust that the +officers were unwilling to aid him in lunar observations. No doubt they +saw no particular use in them when there was no coast to fix; but there +is ample proof that he received every aid when Cook thought it necessary.</p> + +<p>Sufficient charts have been placed in this book to enable the reader to +follow the more interesting parts of the voyage; some being reproductions +of Cook's own charts, others modern publications. In the case of the +coast of East Australia, the coast-line as laid down by Cook, and as now +known, are given side by side for comparison.</p> + +<p>It must be understood, that although this book is styled CAPTAIN COOK'S +JOURNAL, he was on this voyage only a Lieutenant in Command, and +therefore only Captain by courtesy.</p> + +<p>W.J.L. WHARTON.</p> + +<p>FLORYS, WIMBLEDON PARK,</p> + +<p>April 7th, 1893.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<p><a href="#sketch">SKETCH OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LIFE.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#listofpersons">LIST OF PERSONS WHO LEFT ENGLAND IN H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 26TH AUGUST, 1768.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER 1. ENGLAND TO RIO JANEIRO.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER 2. RIO JANEIRO TO TAHITI.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER 3. TAHITI.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER 4. TAHITI TO NEW ZEALAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NEW ZEALAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER 6. EXPLORATION OF MIDDLE ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch7">CHAPTER 7. PASSAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO NEW HOLLAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch8">CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch9">CHAPTER 9. FROM TORRES STRAIT TO BATAVIA.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch10">CHAPTER 10. BATAVIA TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER 11. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#index">INDEX.</a></p> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<p><a href="#cook-01">1. PORTRAIT OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK WITH A FACSIMILE OF HIS SIGNATURE. +COLLOTYPE, WATERLOW & SONS LTD.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-05">2. MODERN CHART OF SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN SHOWING TRACK OF H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 1769 TO 1770.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-06">3. FACSIMILE OF SATURDAY, 3RD JUNE, 1769.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-07">4. CHART OF THE ISLAND OTAHEITE, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769.<br> +REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-08">5. TAHITI: TYPES OF CANOES.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-09">6. CHART OF THE SOCIETY ISLES, DISCOVERED BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769. +REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-10">7. WAR CANOE OF NEW ZEALAND.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-13">8. TRACK OF ENDEAVOUR FROM TORRES STRAIT TO JAVA. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1770.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-14">9. FACSIMILE OF TUESDAY, 23RD OCTOBER, 1770.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-16">10. CHART OF NEW ZEALAND, EXPLORED IN 1769 AND 1770, BY LIEUTENANT I: +COOK, COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR, ENGRAVED BY I. BAYLY. +REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#cook-15">11. PRINTERS' PLATE: Owl on books, distant town, hills, tree and moon.<br> +"REST, PRAY, SLEEP."<br> +Elliott Stock, 62, Paternoster Row.</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width ="30%"> + +<a name="sketch"></a> +<h2>SKETCH OF CAPTAIN COOK'S LIFE.</h2> + +<p>CAPTAIN COOK'S life, or the account of so much of it as is recoverable, +has been so often recounted that there is no occasion to insert more in +this publication than is necessary as a reference to the reader, to +enable him to realise the career and character of the man.</p> + +<p>Cook's first biographer, Andrew Kippis, wrote in 1788, and his work has +recently been republished.* (* "A Narrative of the Voyage round the +World, performed by Captain James Cook, with an Account of His Life" by +A. Kippis, D.D., F.R.S. London: Bickers & Son 1889.)</p> + +<p>The latest and best life is by Walter Besant,* (* "Captain Cook" by +Walter Besant: "English Men of Action" London, Macmillan & Co. 1890.) +whose graceful pen has given us a fascinating, interesting, and, as far +as is possible, complete picture of this great Englishman. Many details +of Cook's private life are lost, but enough has been collected by Mr. +Besant to place our hero vividly before us, and a perusal of his work is +strongly recommended.</p> + +<p>Many things in the following sketch are taken from Mr. Besant, to whom I +wish to tender my acknowledgments.</p> + +<p>James Cook rose from nearly the lowest ranks. The second son of James +Cook, a Yorkshire labourer, and Grace his wife, he was born on the edge +of the Cleveland Hills on February 27th, 1728, in the little village of +Marton, which lies about four miles south-south-east of Middlesborough, +and five miles west of the well-known hill and landmark, Roseberry +Topping. Eight years later his father removed to Great Ayton, which lies +close under Roseberry Topping.</p> + +<p>At the age of thirteen Cook, who, it is recorded, had had some elementary +schooling both at Marton and Great Ayton, was apprenticed to one +Sanderson, a draper and grocer of Staithes, a fishing village on the +coast, about fourteen miles from Ayton and nine north-west of Whitby.</p> + +<p>A year later Cook went, or ran away, to sea, shipping at Whitby on board +the Freelove, a collier belonging to the brothers Walker.</p> + +<p>In this hard school Cook learnt his sailor duties. No better training +could have been found for his future responsibilities. Here he learnt to +endure the utmost rigours of the sea. Constant fighting with North Sea +gales, bad food, and cramped accommodation, taught him to regard with the +indifference that afterwards distinguished him, all the hardships that he +had to encounter, and led him to endure and persevere where others, less +determined or more easily daunted by difficulties, would have hurried on, +and left their work incomplete.</p> + +<p>All details of Cook's life during his thirteen years in the merchant +service are lost: what voyages he made, how he fared, whether he advanced +in general knowledge, all is gone. The only fact known is that in May +1755, when Cook was twenty-seven years of age, and mate of a vessel of +Messrs. Walker, then in the Thames, he, to avoid the press, then active +on account of the outbreak of the war with France, volunteered on board +H.M.S. Eagle, of 60 guns, as an able seaman.</p> + +<p>Captain Hugh Palliser, who succeeded to the command of this ship in +October, was certainly Cook's warmest patron, and it would appear that +Cook did work superior to that of an able seaman in the Eagle. Be that as +it may, all that is absolutely known is that that ship took her share of +the fighting at the taking of Louisbourg and elsewhere on the North +American and West Indian Station, and returned to England in 1759.</p> + +<p>By Palliser's interest Cook was now appointed master of the Mercury. It +is therefore evident that his qualifications as a navigator recommended +themselves to Palliser.</p> + +<p>The Mercury went to North America, and here Cook did his first good +service recorded, namely, taking soundings in the St. Lawrence, to enable +the fleet then attacking Quebec to take up safe positions in covering the +army under Wolfe. This he accomplished with great skill, under many +difficulties, in the face of the enemy, much of it being done at night. +He was immediately employed in making a survey of the intricate channels +of the river below Quebec, and for many years his chart was the guide for +navigation. Cook was indeed a born surveyor. Before his day charts were +of the crudest description, and he must have somehow acquired a +considerable knowledge of trigonometry, and possessed an intuitive +faculty for practically applying it, to enable him to originate, as it +may truly be said he did, the art of modern marine surveying.</p> + +<p>The expedition to Quebec concluded, Cook was appointed master of the +Northumberland, bearing Admiral Lord Colville's flag, and during that +ship's winter at Halifax he applied himself to further study of +mathematics and astronomy.</p> + +<p>In 1762, the Northumberland being at Newfoundland during the capture of +that island from the French, Cook again was employed in surveys. This +attracted the attention of Captain Graves, the Governor, who conceived a +high opinion of his abilities in this respect.</p> + +<p>In the latter part of 1762 Cook returned to England and married Elizabeth +Batts, daughter of a man in business at Wapping; but a few months +afterwards he was called upon by Captain Graves to go again to +Newfoundland to make marine surveys.</p> + +<p>In this important work he was engaged until 1767, Captain Palliser, who +succeeded Captain Graves as Governor, being only too glad to avail +himself of Cook's services.</p> + +<p>The charts he made during these years in the schooner Grenville were +admirable. The best proof of their excellence is that they are not yet +wholly superseded by the more detailed surveys of modern times. Like all +first surveys of a practically unknown shore, and especially when that +shore abounds in rocks and shoals, and is much indented with bays and +creeks, they are imperfect, in the sense of having many omissions; but +when the amount of the ground covered, and the impediments of fogs and +bad weather on that coast is considered, and that Cook had at the most +only one assistant, their accuracy is truly astonishing. The originals of +these surveys form part of the most precious possessions of the +Hydrographic Office of the Admiralty.</p> + +<p>We now approach the crowning achievements of Cook's life.</p> + +<p>After many years' neglect the exploration of the Pacific was awaking +interest. This great ocean, which very few, even to this day, realise +occupies nearly one half of the surface of the globe, had been, since the +first voyage of Magellan, crossed by many a vessel.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding, very little was known of the islands occupying its +central portion.</p> + +<p>For this there were two reasons. First, the comparatively small area +covered by islands; secondly, the fact that nearly all who traversed it +had followed Magellan's track, or, if they started, as many did, from +Central America, they made straight for Magellan's discovery, the Ladrone +Islands. For this, again, there was a reason.</p> + +<p>Few sailed for the purpose of exploration pure and simple; and even those +who started with that view found, when embarked on that vast expanse, +that prudence dictated that they should have a moderate certainty of, by +a certain time, falling in with a place of sure refreshment. The +provisions they carried were bad at starting, and by the time they had +fought their way through the Straits of Magellan were already worse; +water was limited, and would not hold out more than a given number of +days. Every voyage that is pursued tells the same story--short of water, +and eagerly looking out for an opportunity of replenishing it. The winds +were found to blow in fixed directions, and each voyager was fearful of +deviating from the track on which it was known they would be fair, for +fear of delays. And ever present in each captain's mind was the dread of +the terrible scourge, scurvy. Every expedition suffered from it. Each +hoped they would be exempt, and each in turn was reduced to impotence +from its effects.</p> + +<p>It was the great consideration for every leader of a protracted +expedition, How can I obviate this paralyzing influence? And one after +another had to confess his failure.</p> + +<p>It is yearly becoming more difficult for us to realise these obstacles.</p> + +<p>The prevailing winds and currents in each part of the ocean are well +known to us: the exact distance and bearing from one point to another are +laid down in the chart; steam bridges over calm areas, and in many cases +conducts us on our entire journey at a speed but little inferior to that +of land travelling by railroad; modern science preserves fresh and +palatable food for an indefinite period; and, in a word, all the +difficulties and most of the dangers of long voyages have disappeared.</p> + +<p>Take one element alone in long voyages--the time required. The average +progress of a ship in the eighteenth century was not more than fifty +miles a day. Nowadays we may expect as much as four hundred miles in a +full powered steamer, and not less than one hundred and fifty in a +well-fitted sailing ship.</p> + +<p>But navigation, and more especially the navigation of the unknown +Pacific, was very different in Cook's days, when all the obstacles above +mentioned impeded the explorers, and impelled them to follow a common +track.</p> + +<p>There were a few who had deviated from the common track.</p> + +<p>The Spaniards, Mendana, Quiros, Torres, in the latter part of the +sixteenth century, starting first from their colonies in Peru, had +ventured along the central line of the Pacific, discovering the +Marquesas, certain small coral islands, the Northern New Hebrides, and +the Solomon Islands; but their voyages, mainly for fear of Drake and his +successors, were kept so secret that no one quite knew where these +islands lay.</p> + +<p>Abel Tasman, in 1642, coming across the Indian Ocean from the westward, +had touched at Tasmania, or, as he called it, Van Diemen's Land, had +skirted the western coast of the north island of New Zealand without +landing, and had stretched away to the north-east, and found the Tonga +Group.</p> + +<p>The English Buccaneers were not among these discoverers; Dampier, Woods +Rogers, and others, all went from Acapulco to the Ladrones, looking out +for the valuable Spanish galleons from +Manila, and they added little or nothing to the knowledge of the Pacific +and what it contained.</p> + +<p>It was not therefore strange that the imagination of geographers ran riot +amongst the great unknown areas. They were impressed, as they looked at +the globes of the day, with the fact that, while the northern hemisphere +contained much land, the southern showed either water or blank spaces; +and starting with the ill-founded idea that the solid land in either +hemisphere should balance, they conceived that there must be a great +unknown continent in the southern part of the Pacific to make up the +deficiency. This was generally designated Terra Australis Incognita, and +many is the ancient chart that shows it, sketched with a free and +uncontrolled hand, around the South Pole. It was held by many that Tasman +had touched it in New Zealand; that Quiros had seen it near his island of +Encarnacion, and again at Espiritu Santo (New Hebrides), but no one had +been to see.</p> + +<p>In George III's reign the desire to know more of this unknown ocean arose +in England. The king himself took great interest in it, and for the first +time since Queen Elizabeth's age, when Davis, Frobisher, Drake, +Narborough, and others, had gone on voyages of discovery, the pursuit was +renewed.</p> + +<p>In 1764 the Dolphin and Tamor, under the command of Commodore Byron and +Captain Mouat, sailed on a voyage round the world. They spent some time, +as ordered, in exploring the Falkland Islands, and, after a two months' +passage through Magellan Strait, they stood across the Pacific. They, +however, also followed near the well-beaten track, and passing north of +the Paumotus, of which they sighted a few small islands, they too made +for the Ladrones. As usual, they suffered much from scurvy, and the one +idea was to get to a known place to recover. Byron returned in May 1766, +having added but little to the knowledge of the Pacific, and the Dolphin +was again sent in the August of the same year, with the Swallow, under +the command of Captains Wallis and Carteret, on a similar voyage.</p> + +<p>They did somewhat better. After the usual struggle through the long and +narrow Strait of Magellan, against the strong and contrary winds that +continually blow, and which occupied four months, they got into the +Pacific.</p> + +<p>As they passed out they separated, the Dolphin outsailing the Swallow, +and a dispassionate reader cannot well escape the conclusion that the +senior officers unnecessarily parted company.</p> + +<p>The Dolphin kept a little south of the usual route, fell in with some of +the Paumotu Group, and finally discovered Tahiti, where she anchored at +Royal Bay, after grounding on a reef at its entrance, with her people, as +usual, decimated by scurvy. They were almost immediately attacked by the +natives, who, however, received such a reception that they speedily made +friends, and fast friends too. The remainder of the month of the Dolphin +stay was marked with the most friendly intercourse, and she sailed with a +high opinion of Tahiti and the Tahitians; the Queen, Cook's Obereia, +being especially well disposed to them. Their communication with the +natives must, however, have been limited, as they remained too short a +time to learn the language, and we gather little of the manners and +customs from the account of the voyage.</p> + +<p>After sailing from Tahiti we hear the same tale--sickness, want of water, +doubt of what was before them. After sailing by several small islands, +and an attempt to water at one, course was steered as before for the +Ladrones. Let Wallis tell his own story. He says:--</p> + +<p>"I considered that watering here would be tedious and attended with great +fatigue; that it was now the depth of winter in the southern hemisphere; +that the ship was leaky, that the rudder shook in the stern very much, +and that what other damage she might have received in her bottom could +not be known. That for these reasons she was very unfit for the bad +weather which she would certainly meet with, either in going round Cape +Horn or through the Streight of Magellan; that if she should get safely +through the streight or round the Cape, it would be absolutely necessary +to refresh in some port; but in that case no port would be in her reach. +I therefore determined to make the best of my way to Tinian, Batavia, and +so to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope.</p> + +<p>"By this rout, as far as we could judge, we should sooner be at home; and +if the ship should prove not to be in a condition to make the whole +voyage, we should still save our lives, as from this place to Batavia we +should probably have a calm sea, and be not far from a port."</p> + +<p>These are scarcely the sentiments of a bold explorer, and we shall look +in vain for any similar ideas on the part of Cook. Here was a ship just a +year from England, just come from a convenient and friendly island, where +every refreshment and opportunity for refit were to be found, and the +only thought is how to get home again!</p> + +<p>It was the vastly different conduct of Cook's voyages; the determination +that nothing should stop the main object of the expedition; his resource +in every difficulty and danger; that caused, and rightly caused, him to +be hailed as a born leader of such expeditions.</p> + +<p>Wallis followed nearly on Byron's track: went from the Ladrones, through +the China Sea, to Batavia, and so home, arriving in May 1768.</p> + +<p>The Swallow, under Captain Carteret, was navigated in a different spirit. +She was badly fitted out for such a voyage, had not even a forge, and all +the articles for trade were on board the Dolphin. But Carteret was not +easily daunted. He might, under the circumstances, when he found himself +alone, have abandoned the voyage; but he boldly went forward. Passing +from the Strait of Magellan, he touched at Juan Fernandez, and steering +somewhat south of Wallis's line, he passed south of Tahiti, discovering +Pitcairn's Island on his way, and some of the islands south of the +Paumotus.</p> + +<p>By this time his people were severely afflicted with scurvy, and his ship +in a bad state; but Carteret only thought of getting to some place of +refreshment, from which he might afterwards pass on his voyage towards +the south, in the hope of falling in with the great southern Continent.</p> + +<p>In this he was not fortunate. Missing all other islands, he fell across +the Santa Cruz Group, and hoping that he had found what he wanted, he +anchored and tried to water. The party were, however, attacked by the +natives, and several, including the master, were wounded and died by +poisoned arrows. All hope of a quiet refit was over, and his ship's +company being in a wretched condition, no forge or tools on board to +enable him to effect his many repairs, Carteret, who was himself very +ill, was obliged to give up all intention of exploration to the +southward. He got enough water to last him, and sailed on toward the +Solomon Islands. These he also just missed, but fell in with New Britain, +and passing between it and New Ireland, demonstrated for the first time +that these two large islands were not one, as had been supposed. He here +managed to do something to repair his leaky vessel, heeling and caulking +her, but got little but fruit for his scurvy-stricken crew. He was +attacked by the fierce islanders, and was altogether unable to do as much +as he evidently earnestly desired towards examining the islands.</p> + +<p>Thence they struggled on by Mindanao to Makassar in Celebes, delayed by +contrary winds, disappointed of refreshments at every place they tried, +and losing men from scurvy. At Makassar they met with but an inhospitable +reception from the Dutch, who refused to permit them to receive +refreshments there, and after waiting at Bonthain, a place in Celebes, +several months, for the monsoon to change, they at last arrived at +Batavia, the only port in the Dutch Indies really open to ships, in June +1768. Thence, after heaving down and a thorough repair, they reached +home, via the Cape, on March 20th, 1769.</p> + +<p>Of all the voyages before Cook's, Carteret's showed most determination +and true spirit of enterprise; and had his ship been better supplied, and +more suited to the exigencies of such a long cruise, he would, but for +one thing, have accomplished far more. This was the fatal disease, which +no captain had as yet succeeded in warding off, and which hampered and +defeated the efforts of the most enthusiastic. No man could go beyond a +certain point in disregarding the health of his crew.</p> + +<p>These, then, were the kind of voyages, with their scanty fruits, to which +the English people were getting accustomed, and they were not such as to +encourage repetition.</p> + +<p>In all the years that had elapsed since the Spaniards first sailed on the +Pacific, but little real knowledge of the lands in it had been gained.</p> + +<p>Let us attempt to give a picture of what was known.</p> + +<p>The Marquesas and Santa Cruz Group were known to exist; but of the +Solomons grave doubts were felt, as no man had seen them but Mendana, and +they were, if placed on a map at all, shown in very different longitudes.</p> + +<p>Several voyagers had sighted different members of the extensive Paumotu +Group, but the varying positions caused great confusion.</p> + +<p>Tahiti had been found by Wallis.</p> + +<p>Tasman had laid down the south point of Tasmania, the western coast of +the North Island of New Zealand, and the Tonga Islands. Dampier and +Carteret had shown that New Britain and New Ireland were separate +islands, lying north-east of New Guinea. Quiros had found the northern +island of the New Hebrides.</p> + +<p>But of none of these lands was anything really known. Those who had +visited them had merely touched. In no case had they gone round them, or +ascertained their limits, and their descriptions, founded on brief +experience, were bald and much exaggerated.</p> + +<p>Let us turn to what was unknown.</p> + +<p>This comprises the whole of the east coast of Australia, or New Holland, +and whether it was joined to Tasmania on the south, and New Guinea to the +north; the dimensions of New Zealand; New Caledonia and the New Hebrides, +with the exception of the fact that the northern island of the latter +existed; the Fiji Islands; Sandwich Islands; the Phoenix, Union, Ellice, +Gilbert, and Marshall Groups, with innumerable small islands scattered +here and there; the Cook Islands, and all the Society Islands except +Tahiti. The majority of the Paumotu Group. The coast of North America +north of 45 degrees north was unknown, and there was the great, +undefined, and imaginary southern Continent to disprove.</p> + +<p>Whether other voyages of exploration would have been undertaken one +cannot say; but in 1768 the Royal Society put in a word.</p> + +<p>A transit of Venus over the sun's disc was to occur in 1769, and +astronomers were anxious to take advantage of it, the object of the +observation being to ascertain the distance of the earth from the sun, +the fundamental base line in all astronomical measurements, and which was +very imperfectly known.</p> + +<p>The Central Pacific afforded a favourable position, and the Royal Society +memorialised the king to send a ship for the purpose. The request was +granted, and at first Alexander Dalrymple, who had conducted marine +surveys in the East Indies, and was known as a scientific geographer, was +selected as observer. As, however, it was found that he also expected to +command the ship, the Admiralty positively refused to have anything to do +with him, and after some discussion James Cook was selected.</p> + +<p>This says volumes for Cook's reputation at the time. To have risen +absolutely from the ranks was a great deal, but to be chosen as a master, +to command a ship, and undertake a scientific observation of this +importance, was a most exceptional occurrence, and speaks well for the +judgment of those who had the selection.</p> + +<p>It seems that Mr. Stephens, the Secretary to the Admiralty, had much to +do with it. How Stephens had become acquainted with Cook history does not +relate, but doubtless his personal visits to the Admiralty in connection +with the completion of his charts of Newfoundland, from which he returned +every winter, had brought him into contact with the Secretary, who had +clearly formed a high opinion of him.</p> + +<p>Cook, we may be sure, jumped at the chance, and his pride must have been +great when he found he was to receive a commission as Lieutenant.</p> + +<p>This in itself was a most unusual step. The occasions on which a master +had been transferred to the executive line of the Royal Navy were very +rare, and many an admiral used his influence in favour of some deserving +officer in vain.</p> + +<p>This was not without good reason, as the whole training of the Master of +those days was unfavourable to success in command of ships or men. The +exception was, however, in this case amply justified.</p> + +<p>Cook was allowed to choose his vessel, and bearing in mind the dangers of +grounding in unknown seas, he pitched upon his old friends, the +stoutly-built, full-bottomed colliers of the North Sea trade.</p> + +<p>His ship, the Endeavour, was a Whitby built vessel of three hundred and +seventy tons, and was known as H.M. Bark Endeavour, there being another +vessel, a cutter, of the same name in the Royal Navy. She was brought to +the dockyard at Deptford to fit out. Her appearance was, of course, +wholly different from that of a vessel built as a man-of-war, and we +shall see that this caused trouble at Rio Janeiro, where the combination +of merchant build and officers in uniform in an armed ship, aroused +suspicions in the mind of the Portuguese Viceroy.</p> + +<p>It is nowhere directly stated whether the Endeavour was sheathed with +copper or not; but as Cook in the account of his second voyage expresses +himself as adverse to this method of protecting ships' bottoms, and the +operation is recorded of heeling and boot topping, which was cleaning and +greasing the part of the ship just below waterline, it may be concluded +that her sheathing was wood.</p> + +<p>She proved a most suitable vessel. The log states she was a little crank, +but an admirable sea-boat. Her rate of sailing was of course, with her +build, slow, but her strength and flat bottom stood her in good stead +when she made acquaintance with a coral reef.</p> + +<p>She mounted ten small carriage guns and twelve swivels.</p> + +<p>Mr. Banks, a scientific botanist, afterwards well known as Sir Joseph +Banks, and for a long time President of the Royal Society, a gentleman of +private means, volunteered to accompany Cook, and took with him a staff +of his own, of artists and others.</p> + +<p>He also induced Dr. Solander, a Swedish naturalist, afterwards attached +to the British Museum, to accompany him.</p> + +<p>Mr. Charles Green, one of the assistants at the Royal Observatory at +Greenwich, was sent as astronomer.</p> + +<p>This scientific staff added much to the success of the expedition.</p> + +<p>Banks and Solander, both men of observation, were able to collect +specimens of natural history, and study the manners and customs of the +natives with whom they came in contact, which neither the time at Cook's +disposal nor his training enabled him to undertake; and though the +Journal of the former has never yet been published, and cannot at the +present time be traced, many interesting remarks were extracted by Dr. +Hawkesworth from it and went far to make his account of the voyage +complete.</p> + +<p>Mr. Green also demands special notice.</p> + +<p>One great question of the day amongst seamen and geographers was the +discovering of some ready and sure method of ascertaining the longitude. +Half the value of the explorations made up to this time had been lost +from this want. The recognised means of finding longitude was by the +observation of lunars; that is, accurately measuring the angular distance +between the centres of the moon and of the sun, or of the moon and some +star.</p> + +<p>The motion of the moon is so rapid that this angular distance changes +from second to second, and thereby, by previous astronomical calculation, +the time at Greenwich at which its distance from any body is a certain +number of degrees can be ascertained and recorded.</p> + +<p>By well-known calculations the local time at any spot can be obtained, +and when this is ascertained, at the precise moment that the angular +distance of sun and moon is observed, the difference gives the longitude.</p> + +<p>This seems simple enough, but there is a good deal of calculation to go +through before the result is reached, and neither the observation nor the +calculation is easy, especially with the astronomical tables of those +days, and there were very few sailors who were capable of, or patient +enough to make them, nor was the result, as a rule, very accurate. For +one thing, the motions of the moon, which are extremely complicated, were +not enough known to allow her calculated position in the heavens to be +very accurate, and a very small error in this position considerably +affects the time, and therefore the longitude.</p> + +<p>Luckily for Cook, the Nautical Almanac had just been started, and +contained tables of the moon which had not previously been available, and +which much lightened the calculations.</p> + +<p>The great invention of the chronometer, that is, a watch that can be +trusted to keep a steady rate for long periods, was at this time +completed by Harrison; but very few had been manufactured, and +astronomers and sailors were slow to believe in the efficacy of this +method of carrying time about with a ship. Thus Cook had no chronometer +supplied to him.</p> + +<p>Green had accompanied Mr. Maskelyne, afterwards Astronomer Royal, to +Barbados in 1763 in H.M.S. Princess Louisa, in order to test Harrison's +timekeeper, and also a complicated chair, from which it was supposed +observations of Jupiter's satellites could be observed on board ship; and +as this trial afforded the final triumph of the new method, one would +have thought that on a voyage of circumnavigation he would have made +every effort to get one of these watches.</p> + +<p>Be this as it may, the Endeavour had no chronometer, and lunars were the +mainstay of the expedition.</p> + +<p>In these observations Green was indefatigable. Cook, an excellent +observer himself frequently took part in them; but it was Green's +especial business, and no doubt to him is due the major part of the +determinations of accurate longitude, which is one of the very remarkable +points of this voyage.</p> + +<p>Green's log, which is extant, is filled with lunar observations, and the +extraordinary coincidence between different observations attests the care +with which they were made. I dwell upon this because, while full of +admiration for Cook's knowledge, and his untiring zeal in every detail of +his expedition, it is evident, from a study of the original documents, +that without Green many opportunities of getting longitude would have +been lost, Cook having no time to spare to make use of them. Let us give +honour to whom honour is due.</p> + +<p>The final results of the observations are not equally good, but this +arises from the errors, before referred to, in the moon's place in the +heavens as given in the almanac, which would vary with her position, and +affect the longitude accordingly. The astonishing thing is, not that some +longitudes are considerably in error, but that the majority of them are +so near the truth.</p> + +<p>The Endeavour sailed from the Thames on June 30th, 1768, and was in +Plymouth Sound from July 14th to the 26th, when she finally sailed, Banks +and the scientific staff having joined here.</p> + +<p>She carried a complement, all told, of ninety-four, and very close +stowage it must have been.</p> + +<p>A list is given in this book, immediately before the "Journal," of every +person on board when the ship sailed from Plymouth.</p> + +<p>The draught of the ship was 13 feet 6 inches, and her provisions were +calculated to last eighteen months. The original intention had been that +the transit of Venus should be observed at the Marquesas; but the +Dolphin's return before Cook sailed, with the news of the discovery of +Tahiti and its friendly inhabitants, caused this island to be finally +selected.</p> + +<p>The exact text of Cook's orders cannot be given. They were secret orders; +but, curiously enough, while the covering letter, which enjoined him to +show them to nobody, which is dated July 30th, 1768, is duly entered in +Admiralty Records, the orders themselves, which should follow in the +letter book, are omitted. They have never been published. Nevertheless, +we can gather what they were.</p> + +<p>Cook, in the published account of his Second Voyage, says he had +instructions to proceed directly to Tahiti, and afterwards to prosecute +the design of making discoveries in the Pacific by proceeding southward +to the latitude of 40 degrees, and if he did not find land to continue +his voyage to the west till he fell in with New Zealand, which he was +directed to explore, and thence to return to England by such route as he +should judge most convenient.</p> + +<p>Precautions against the terrible scourge, scurvy, had not been forgotten.</p> + +<p>Besides the supply of all anti-scorbutics then known, a special letter +was written to Cook directing him to take a quantity of malt to sea, for +the purpose of being made into wort, as a cure for scorbutic disorders, +as recommended by Dr. McBride.</p> + +<p>The directions for its use were as follows:--</p> + +<p>"The malt must be ground under the direction of the surgeon, and made +into wort, fresh every day, in the following manner:--</p> + +<p>"1. Take one quart of ground malt, and pour on it three quarts of boiling +water. Stir them well, and let the mixture stand close covered up for +three or four hours, after which strain off the liquor.</p> + +<p>"2. The wort, so prepared, is then to be boiled into a panada, with sea +biscuit or dried fruits generally carried to sea.</p> + +<p>"3. The patient must make at least two meals a day of the said panada, +and should drink a quart or more of the fresh infusion as it may agree +with him, every twenty-four hours.</p> + +<p>"4. The surgeon is to keep an exact account of its effects."</p> + +<p>Though it is somewhat anticipating events, it is convenient to record +here the result of these efforts to defeat the hitherto unconquerable +enemy. Mr. Perry's report at the termination of the voyage is as +follows:--</p> + +<p>"Sour krout, mustard, vinegar, wheat, inspissated orange and lemon +juices, saloup, portable soup, sugar, molasses, vegetables (at all times +when they could be got) were, some in constant, others in occasional use. +These were of such infinite service to the people in preserving them from +a scorbutic taint, that the use of the malt was (with respect to +necessity) almost entirely precluded.</p> + +<p>"Again cold bathing was encouraged and enforced by example; the allowance +of salt beef and pork was abridged from nearly the beginning of the +voyage, and the sailors' usual custom of mixing the salt beef fat with +their flour, etc., was strictly forbad.</p> + +<p>"Upon our leaving England, also, a stop was put to our issuing butter and +cheese, and throughout the voyage raisins were served with the flour +instead of pickled suet. At Tierra del Fuego we collected wild celery, +and every morning our breakfast was made with this herb, with ground +wheat and portable soup.</p> + +<p>"We passed Cape Horn, all our men as free from scurvy as on our sailing +from Plymouth.</p> + +<p>"Three slight cases of scorbutic disorders occurred before arriving at +Otaheite. Wort was given, with apparently good effect, and the symptoms +disappeared.</p> + +<p>"No other cases occurred during the voyage, but the wort was served out +at sea as a regular article of diet."</p> + +<p>To this it may be added, that no opportunity was, as appears by the +Journal, ever lost of getting wild celery and any other wild herb that +presented itself.</p> + +<p>The personal washing is mentioned by Mr. Perry, and the tradition in the +Navy is, that the men's deck was more constantly scrubbed than had then +been usual; in fact, that unusual attention was paid to cleanliness. +Stoves were used to dry the decks below even in hot weather.</p> + +<p>As this voyage forms the subject of this book, its events may be passed +over briefly.</p> + +<p>Calling at Madeira--where the log records that the Endeavour was fired +upon by the fort on the Loo Rock through some misapprehension while +shifting berth, though Cook passes this by in silence--and Rio Janeiro, +Cook proceeded to double Cape Horn. His predecessors had struggled +through the Strait of Magellan, losing much time and wearing out their +men with the continual anchoring and weighing in that long and narrow +passage, rendered necessary by the constant foul and strong winds that +prevail. The idea was to avoid the heavy seas and gales of the open sea; +but Cook's action was amply justified by a more rapid passage without any +danger. Discovering several of the low coral atolls of the Paumotu Group, +he arrived at Tahiti on April 13th, 1769.</p> + +<p>On July 13th, the transit of Venus having been observed under favourable +conditions on June 1st, he left Tahiti, exploring and mapping the Society +Islands immediately to the westward, never before visited, and then stood +to the southward. It may here be mentioned that it is only during the +last decade that Cook's charts of the Society Group have been superseded +by more elaborate surveys by the French.</p> + +<p>Cook went to 40 degrees south, discovering one of the Austral Group on +his way, when, finding no sign of the hypothetical southern Continent, +and getting into very dirty weather, he first gained a more northern +latitude and favourable winds, and then stood for New Zealand.</p> + +<p>On October 7th he arrived at Poverty Bay, and during the next six months +he completely circumnavigated and mapped the islands of New Zealand. He +had received on board at Tahiti a native, one Tupia, formerly the high +priest, and a man of much intelligence. Tupia proved to be of the utmost +service, as, to their astonishment and delight, they found that the +languages were sufficiently identical to enable him to act as a most +efficient interpreter; which made it possible to obtain information, and +establish relations with the New Zealanders which they could never have +succeeded in doing without him.</p> + +<p>Cook now, after consideration, determined to explore the unknown east +coast of New Holland. The health of his ship's company, and the good +order on board, permitted him to make this good use of his time, instead +of hurrying on to a civilised port, as all his forerunners had had to do.</p> + +<p>He struck Australia at its south-east point, and followed the whole coast +to the northward, mapping it as he went.</p> + +<p>When nearing the northern end the voyage nearly came to a premature +conclusion by the ship grounding on a coral reef, twenty miles from the +land. Cook's seamanship was, however, equal to the occasion. The ship was +got off, much damaged and leaking severely, and carried into a little +port they discovered not far off. Here she was cleared out and laid upon +the ground, the tide sufficing to dry enough of her bottom to let the +carpenters repair it.</p> + +<p>The wisdom of Cook's choice of a ship of the build of the Endeavour was +here very apparent. It was not every ship that could be safely beached in +this way without danger of falling over. After long delay she proceeded +on her voyage, and soon had a second narrow escape. The long line of +coral reefs that front the northern part of Eastern Australia, for a +distance of 1200 miles, approach the coast about the place where the ship +had grounded. The passage between the outer reef and the land is strewn +with shoals, and finding his further progress much impeded by them, and +fearful of a repetition of his disaster, Cook with some difficulty found +a channel to seaward, and gained the open ocean. He was, however, yet +determined to follow the land he was exploring, and more especially to +solve the great question as to whether Australia was joined to New Guinea +or no; and three days after his escape from the line of reefs he found +himself with a light wind, embayed on the outer side of them, with the +reefs close to him, and the ship drifting slowly but surely on them, the +heavy swell of the great ocean breaking mountains high on their outer +edge.</p> + +<p>Here again calmness and promptitude saved him, and the ship was pushed +through a narrow channel in these terrible reefs into the smooth, though +reef-dotted, waters within. No event in the voyage is more dramatically +narrated, though without any exaggeration, than this hair-breadth escape.</p> + +<p>With the caution born of recent dangers, Cook now slowly found his way +through the maze of reefs, by a route that no one has again followed, to +the northern point of Australia, and was rewarded for his pertinacity by +finding the channel now known as Torres Strait, which led him between New +Guinea and Australia.</p> + +<p>Thus far Cook's enthusiasm in adventure and desire to explore had been +fully shared by his companions; but it is apparent that at this point +they fell short of his high standard. Cook, having secured his direct +passage to Batavia, and having still a little provision left, was anxious +to do still more in the way of discovery, and stood over to the +little-known New Guinea shore. It is evident, however, from Cook's +expressions, though he does not complain, that his people were pining for +fresh food and civilisation. Australia had produced them little but +occasional fish and a few turtle. The salt provisions of those days were +most unpalatable, and the effect of their continued hard work and +inadequate food for so long, for they were now over two years from +England, with no communication of any kind with the outer world, were +telling on them, though they were still free from scurvy.</p> + +<p>Cook, therefore, after landing once in New Guinea, unwillingly turned his +ship's head towards Batavia.</p> + +<p>The complaints grew louder as he passed by Timor without attempting to +communicate, and falling in with the island of Savu, he yielded to +importunity, and touched there to get refreshments.</p> + +<p>Thence he went by the south shore of the chain of islands to Sunda Strait +and Batavia.</p> + +<p>So far all had gone well. It was undoubtedly far the most successful +voyage ever made. Much had been done--more than his orders directed--to +explore unknown lands, and the dire enemy of seamen, scurvy, had been +conquered.</p> + +<p>But his luck was not to last.</p> + +<p>It was absolutely necessary to remain some time at Batavia, while the +roughly repaired damage to the ship was made good in the Dutch dockyard.</p> + +<p>Two months and a half in the sickly climate of Batavia, during a bad time +of the year, wrought a sad change in his ship's company. The port they so +much desired proved but the door of the grave to many of them, and Cook +sailed for England on December 27th, 1770, with dysentery pervading the +ship. The surgeon had already died of it; so had the poor Tahitian, +Tupia, with two seamen, and one of Mr. Banks' artists.</p> + +<p>Worse was, however, to follow. Day by day, as the ship slowly found her +way over the Indian Ocean towards the Cape, against the wet and unhealthy +north-west monsoon, the sick list grew larger. Man after man succumbed, +and before half the distance to Capetown was traversed twenty-two more +were carried off. Green, the astronomer, two more of Banks' staff, two +midshipmen, the boatswain and carpenter were among the number. The crew +was more than decimated.</p> + +<p>The ship touched at the Cape, and war with France being expected, the +Endeavour joined the East India convoy, under H.M.S. Portland, at St. +Helena. The heavy-sailing, collier-built craft was not, however, when the +ships had crossed the line and got upon a wind, able to keep up with +them, and she once more found herself alone on her way.</p> + +<p>Two more officers, the First Lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, and the Master, Mr. +Molineux, died after leaving the Cape, but not of dysentery, and the ship +finally reached England on June 12th, 1771.</p> + +<p>Ninety-four persons left England in the Endeavour, of whom fifty-four +returned. Thirty-eight died on the voyage, out of which number thirty-one +died after reaching Batavia, most of them from fever and dysentery +contracted at that place.</p> + +<p>After paying off in August 1771, the Endeavour was sold in 1775, and for +many years sailed as a collier in the North Sea.</p> + +<p>This voyage gave a new impetus to discovery, and the immediate thought +was to resume it, under this heaven-born leader.</p> + +<p>Cook was given little leisure, as it was nearly at once decided to send +him out again, and he was appointed to command the Resolution on November +28th, 1771, the interval having been occupied in considering what ships +should be employed.</p> + +<p>Cook's experience of the qualities of the Endeavour caused him to uphold +the selection of similar vessels, for there were to be two, and the +Resolution and Adventure, of 462 and 336 tons respectively, both Whitby +built colliers, were bought for the voyage. Cook was promoted to +Commander, and Tobias Furnaux, in the Adventure, was placed under his +command. It was not, however, until April 1772 that they sailed.</p> + +<p>It was originally intended that Banks should again accompany Cook, and +with a view to his better accommodation a poop was added to the +Resolution. The short trip, however, from Deptford to Sheerness proved to +Cook that the ship was dangerously over-weighted, and the poop was +removed, with the consequence that Banks did not sail. The alteration +delayed final departure until June 22nd from Sheerness, and July 13th +from Plymouth.</p> + +<p>The naturalists on this voyage were two Forsters, Germans, father and +son; and as astronomers Mr. Wales sailed in the Resolution, and Mr. +Bayley in the Adventure. Two of Cook's former companions sailed as +Lieutenants: Clerke, who was Lieutenant, and Pickersgill, who was master +of the Endeavour when she reached England. This witnesses to the +confidence and enthusiasm that Cook inspired amongst those under him. +There were also other Endeavours amongst the junior officers.</p> + +<p>The main object of the voyage was the settlement of the great question of +the southern Continent. Cook was directed to explore the whole region +about the South Pole, starting from the Cape of Good Hope, and working +eastward. The winter of the southern hemisphere was to be employed as +Cook thought fit.</p> + +<p>This voyage brought Cook's qualities as a seaman and commander more +prominently to view even than the former. The conditions were very +different. Instead of mapping coasts and islands, the principal duty was +exploration of tempestuous seas in high latitudes, amongst ice, searching +in vain for the illusive southern land.</p> + +<p>Cook carried it out thoroughly. No gales, no temperatures deterred him +from searching wherever the ships would safely sail, and it was only ice +in dense masses that turned him back.</p> + +<p>What his people thought of it we do not know, but the Forsters have given +a piteous account of the privations and hardships of an exploration that +gave them little chance of exercising their special knowledge.</p> + +<p>Cook was better provided with instruments for the determination of +longitude than before, and the ships carried four chronometric +timekeepers; but the proper method of making use of them was scarcely yet +realised, and the course of his voyage did not permit them to be of much +service.</p> + +<p>Mindful of his former success in combating scurvy, and making use of his +experience, Cook carried with him all his former anti-scorbutics, and +redoubled his general precautions as to cleanliness, both of person and +ship. The result was complete immunity from more than symptoms of scurvy. +He was able to say, when he returned, that no man had died not only of +this disease, but of any other, due to the exposures of the voyage. Three +lost by accidents, and one from a complaint contracted before leaving +England, were the sole losses on a voyage lasting three years, and during +which the exposure to heat, cold, rain, and all the hardships of a sea +life was probably never surpassed.</p> + +<p>Leaving the Cape on November 22nd, Cook stood at once to the southward, +intending to pass over a spot in latitude 54 degrees South, where in 1739 +M. Bouvet sighted land that was generally supposed to be a part of the +Southern Continent, and which he had been especially directed to examine. +Gales, however, drove him from his course, and to this day Bouvet's +Islands (for Cook proved they could be nothing else) are doubtfully shown +upon charts.* (* They were again reported in 1825 by the Sprightly, an +English whaler, but Sir James Ross searched for them in 1840 without +success.) Cook soon got into the ice, and fought with it and gales of +wind, in snow and sleet and fog, working gradually eastwards from the +longitude of the Cape for four months. The ship penetrated to 67 degrees +South at one point, and kept as high a latitude as ice permitted +everywhere, but without discovering any land. Cook found to his great joy +that the ice yielded good fresh water, and replenished his water casks in +this manner, without any fear of falling short. With all his power of +communicating his enthusiasm to others, it may be doubted if they shared +his pleasure at finding that the search in these inclement regions need +not be curtailed from lack of this necessary.</p> + +<p>At last, in the longitude of Tasmania, Cook hauled to the northward, and +headed for New Zealand, where, after sailing over eleven thousand miles +since leaving the Cape without once sighting land, he anchored in Dusky +Bay on March 26th, 1774, with the Resolution only, the Adventure having +parted company in thick weather on February 9th. Moving on to Queen +Charlotte's Sound, his old anchorage at the north end of Middle Island, +he found the Adventure there on May 18th. Captain Furneaux had, after +vainly searching for his consort, run for Tasmania, and explored the east +coast. He did not, however, clear up the point for which he states he +visited this coast, namely, whether it joined New Holland or not, as +strong winds from the eastward made him fearful of closing what he +thought was a deep bay, though really the Strait, and he sailed for the +rendezvous in New Zealand under the impression that Tasmania and +Australia were one.</p> + +<p>The ships left New Zealand on June 7th, 1773, and, after making a wide +circuit to the south and east in search of land, arrived at Tahiti on +August 16th. A good many of the Adventure's people were ill with scurvy, +and Cook is much puzzled to know the reason why they were attacked while +his own crew were free. He puts it down to the greater trouble he had +taken to make all his men use wild celery and other herbs in New Zealand, +and no doubt this had its effect; but one cannot but suspect that the +constant care on his part to keep the ship clean and sweet below had much +to do with it. The Adventure had the same anti-scorbutics, and Cook +especially mentions that they were in use; but the personal efforts of +the captain in the direction of general sanitary precautions were, we +know, exercised in one case, while we know nothing of the other.</p> + +<p>After a month's stay at Tahiti and the Society Islands, where the crews +were much benefited by fresh provisions, the ships sailed for the +Friendly Islands, never visited since Tasrnan's time, and touched at Eoa +and Tongatabu, or, as Tasman had called them, Middleburg and Amsterdam. +These were finally left on October 7th for New Zealand, which was made on +the 21st, and from this day to November 2nd the time was spent in +fruitless endeavours to get into Cook's Strait. Gale succeeded gale--no +uncommon thing here--and in one of them the Adventure parted company +never again to rejoin. Cook anchored in Queen Charlotte's Sound on +November 2nd, and waited until the 25th for his consort in vain. Whilst +here they gained further and indisputable proof of the cannibalistic +tendencies of the Maoris, some of the natives eating human flesh before +them. Cook has been much blamed for permitting this scene, which took +place on board; but there had been so much disputing in England as to the +possibility of the fact, that he could not resist the opportunity of +putting it beyond a doubt.</p> + +<p>It was, however, to be shortly proved in a much more horrible manner, for +the Adventure, which only arrived at Queen Charlotte's Sound after the +Resolution left, had a boat's crew attacked, overpowered, and eaten by +the natives. The circumstances were never wholly known, as not a man +escaped; but the cooked remains were found, the natives decamping as the +search-party approached.</p> + +<p>Cook sailed south on November 25th, 1773, and was soon again battling +with the ice, into which he pushed as far as was safe with as much +hardihood as if he had still had the second ship with him. He gained the +latitude of 67 degrees south, and worked eastward, searching religiously +for land--which, needless to say, he never found--his ropes frozen, and +sails like, as he says, plates of metal. Whatever the feelings of others +on board were, Cook never flinched from every effort to get south, +penetrating in one place to 71 degrees south, where he was stopped by +dense pack, until he found himself nearly in the longitude of Tierra del +Fuego, when, satisfied that no Southern Continent existed in the Pacific, +he, on February 6th, steered north, to continue exploration in more +genial weather and more profitable latitudes. All this time there was no +scurvy, and very little sickness of any kind; an indisputable proof of +the untiring supervision Cook exercised over the health of his men. The +object of his voyage, so far as the Southern Pacific was concerned, was +now accomplished, and Cook might have rounded Cape Horn, and made for the +Cape of Good Hope, completing his tour of the world in southern +latitudes; but such was not his idea of his duty. His own nervous words +will explain his feelings best:--</p> + +<p>"We undoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope in April, and so +have put an end to the expedition so far as related to the finding of a +continent, which indeed was the first object of the voyage; but for me at +this time to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean with a good ship +expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either +of stores or provisions, would have betrayed not only a want of +perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the South Pacific Ocean to be +so well explored that nothing remained to be done in it. This, however, +was not my opinion; for, although I had proved there was no continent but +what must lie far to the south, there remained, nevertheless, room for +very large islands in places wholly unexamined, and many of those which +were formerly discovered are but imperfectly explored, and their +situation as imperfectly known. I was, besides, of opinion that my +remaining in this sea some time longer would be productive of +improvements in navigation and geography, as well as other sciences."</p> + +<p>Cook mentions that, on communicating his intentions to his officers, they +all heartily concurred; and he adds, "Under such circumstances it is +hardly necessary to say that the seamen were always obedient and alert, +and they were so far from wishing the voyage at an end that they rejoiced +at the prospect of its being prolonged another year." This, be it +remembered, without a prospect of news from home or contact with +civilisation, for Cook's design was to pass again through the breadth of +the Pacific searching for islands as far as Quiros' discovery of Espiritu +Santo, which lay due north of New Zealand, and then to return through the +tempestuous regions they were now quitting to Cape Horn. Perhaps the +charms of Tahiti reconciled them.</p> + +<p>This design Cook triumphantly carried out; though shortly after leaving +southern latitudes he was so ill of what he describes as a bilious +cholic, that his life was despaired of. He first searched for, and +visited, Davis' discovery of Easter Island, where he examined and +described the wonderful colossal, though rude, statues there found. He +then went to the Marquesas, a group but little known, where, after the +usual attempt of the natives to appropriate sundry articles, and the +consequent necessity of firing upon them, peaceful relations were +established, and a brisk trade in much-wanted refreshments was set up. +This did not last long, however, as the market was spoiled by some red +feathers, obtained at the Friendly Islands, being given for a pig; after +which nothing would buy provisions but these same red feathers, and these +being scarce, trade ceased. Cook therefore sailed once more for Tahiti.</p> + +<p>On his way he touched at some of the coral atolls of the innumerable +Paumotu Group, and arrived at Matavai on April 22nd, again with not a +sick man on board.</p> + +<p>Three weeks were spent here with much satisfaction to all. Provisions +were in plenty, the king and people very friendly, and all went well. The +islanders were preparing for an attack on Eimeo, a neighbouring island, +and a gathering of the fleets gave Cook an opportunity of learning much +of their naval power and manner of conducting war. He observed that the +general prosperity of Tahiti seemed to be at a much higher point than on +his former visit.</p> + +<p>After another three weeks' stay at Huaheine, and Ulietea, also amongst +old friends, the Resolution sailed on June 4th to the west.</p> + +<p>Discovering Palmerston and Savage Islands on the way, she called at +Namuka, one of the Friendly Group, thus extending the knowledge of those +islands gained the year before. Thence Cook sailed west, discovering +Turtle Island, but just passing out of sight to the southward of the +large Fiji Group, and thus lost the chance of adding them to his other +finds.</p> + +<p>He was now bound for the New Hebrides, of which the northern island had +been discovered by Quiros. Bougainville, the French explorer, had, in +1768, passed just south of Quiros' Island, and named one or two others he +sighted, but had made no stay, and knew nothing of the extent of the +Group.</p> + +<p>This was not Cook's fashion. He explored and circumnavigated the whole +Group, which extends in a long line for three hundred and fifty miles. He +touched first at Mallicolo, where, after a temporary disagreement, +friendship was formed. Passing Sandwich Island, Erromanga was landed +upon; but the suspicion of the natives here impelled them to attack the +boats, and no intercourse was established.</p> + +<p>The ship then anchored in the convenient harbour of Resolution Bay in the +island of Tanna, and remained a fortnight, wooding and watering. +Observations on the hot springs that gush from the side of the volcano +bordering the harbour were made, and the relations with the natives were +altogether friendly. Sighting Anityeum, the southern member of the New +Hebrides, and making sure there was nothing beyond it, Cook returned +along the west side of the islands, passing eastward of them again, +between Mallicolo and Espiritu Santo. The latter island was closely +followed round its whole extent, and Quiros' Bay of St. Philip and St. +James identified in the great inlet in the northern side. Having laid +down the whole of this extensive group of islands, and very accurately +fixed the longitude by many lunar observations, Cook, on August 31st, +sailed to the westward to search for more lands.</p> + +<p>His chart of the New Hebrides is still, for some of the islands, the only +one; and wherever superseded by more recent surveys the general accuracy +of his work, both in outline and position, is very remarkable. On several +occasions up to the present year (1893) Cook's recorded positions have +saved the adoption of so-called amendments reported by passing ships, +which would have been anything but amendments in reality.</p> + +<p>Four days after leaving the New Hebrides Cook discovered New Caledonia. +He explored the whole of the eastern side of this large island, which is +three hundred miles in length, anchoring in one harbour inside the reefs +which border it, and making friends with the natives. Other attempts to +get inside the reefs were, however, unsuccessful, and after several +narrow escapes from shipwreck Cook gave up, to his regret, a complete +circumnavigation of the island. The summer approaching, he wished to +refit and recruit in New Zealand before once more standing south.</p> + +<p>Norfolk Island was discovered and landed upon on the way, and Queen +Charlotte's Sound was once more reached on October 19th.</p> + +<p>The Adventure's visit was ascertained from the Maoris, but Cook was much +puzzled by incompletely understood accounts of white men having been +killed. As far as could be gathered a ship had been lost on the coast, +and Cook was led to believe that this disaster had no reference to the +Adventure.</p> + +<p>It was found that pigs and fowls left here on the former visit were still +in existence, and presumably thriving. It may here be mentioned, that +wherever Cook touched he invariably, so far as his stock allowed, left +animals to stock the country, and that New Zealand was, when the settlers +eventually came, found to be well supplied with pigs.</p> + +<p>After a stay of three weeks the Resolution sailed, on November 10th, for +Cape Horn. She kept farther north than on the last occasion, the object +being to pass over new ground, and more completely disprove the existence +of any land.</p> + +<p>The western part of Tierra del Fuego being reached, Cook followed the +shore to the south-east, mapping the outside of this dangerous and +inhospitable archipelago. On December 20th he put in to what he +afterwards called Christmas Sound, where large numbers of kelp geese were +obtained, giving the crew what Cook describes as a dainty Christmas +feast, though the flesh of these birds is as tough, fishy, and +unpalatable as can well be imagined; on this occasion, however, the +seamen seemed to have concurred in the verdict of their omnivorous +commander, to whom nothing ever came amiss. Be it remembered, however, +how long they had been on salt provisions, and that the South Sea +Islands, though pleasant in many respects, produced but little solid +food--no beef, mutton, or flesh of any quadruped but pigs, and those in +not very great plenty--while New Zealand gave them nothing but fish.</p> + +<p>Rounding Cape Horn, he passed through the Strait Le Maire, and followed +the north shore of Staten Island, anchoring at one place to obtain seals +and birds.</p> + +<p>Whilst praising the flavour of a young seal cub, Cook is compelled to +admit that the flesh of an old sea lion is abominable; a remarkable +statement as coming from him.</p> + +<p>Leaving Staten Island, Cook steered east and discovered South Georgia, +named after the king. He followed the north coast of this desolate and +ice-clad island, obtaining more refreshment in the shape of seals, +penguins, and shags--unpalatable, but welcome food to men who had so long +subsisted on bad salt meat. From South Georgia the ship's head was once +more turned southwards, and before many days ice was again encountered. +In stormy and thick weather the Resolution made her way, disproving the +existence of a great tract of land laid down by speculative geographers, +until January 31st, 1775, when Sandwich Land was discovered in about +latitude 60 degrees south. This ice-covered group of islands was sketched +under great difficulties from gales, fogs, snow, and numerous icebergs; +and Cook then bore away along their parallel, to seek once more for +Bouvet's Islands to the eastward.</p> + +<p>He found nothing, and on February 26th steered for the Cape of Good Hope, +even he being glad to leave this trying, tempestuous latitude. On March +23rd he anchored in Table Bay, having learnt from some vessels outside of +the safe arrival of the Adventure in England the year before, and of her +boat's crew having been eaten by the Maoris, which cleared up the mystery +of the wrecked ship.</p> + +<p>The Resolution finally arrived at Spithead on July 29th, 1775, after an +absence of three years and eighteen days.</p> + +<p>Captain Furneaux had, on leaving New Zealand, sailed straight for Cape +Horn, the Cape of Good Hope, and England, arriving just a year before the +Resolution.</p> + +<p>Cook speaks most warmly of Captain Furneaux; but one cannot help +contrasting his action with Cook's. Left, by the separation, his own +master, he might have continued exploration, as did Cook. His ship was +staunch, his provisions in much the same condition as the Resolution's; +but he went straight home. His crew had suffered from scurvy, whereas +Cook's had not; but he says not one word of this, nor does he give any +reason why he gave up any further thought of the objects of the voyage, +except a search for Bouvet's Islands, which he also looked for on his +way.</p> + +<p>It was the indomitable perseverance that led Cook to act so differently +that raised his reputation so far above all other leaders.</p> + +<p>Thus ended this very remarkable voyage. Never was a ship's crew exposed +to more continual hardships, with so little to keep up interest and +excitement, as the people of the Resolution; and yet Cook is able to +record, with allowable pride, that only four lives had been lost, and +only one by a sickness contracted before leaving England.</p> + +<p>Once more the scurvy was defeated; and, without a doubt, owing to the +intelligent action and untiring supervision of the captain. He gives a +full description of the measures adopted, and while giving full +acknowledgment to the anti-scorbutics with which he was supplied, he is +of opinion that the general sanitary precautions formed the best +prevention. Cleanliness of persons, bedding, clothes, and ship, were +continually enforced. All these were foreign to the sailors of the time, +and extraordinary it is that it was a man born in the lower rank of life, +and brought up in a collier, who had the sense to perceive that in these +lay the surest preventatives against this paralysing scourge.</p> + +<p>Cook was promoted to captain--a proud position for the collier boy--and +elected a Fellow of the Royal Society; perhaps even a greater distinction +for a man of his bringing up. He contributed papers on his methods of +preventing scurvy, and on the tides of the Pacific.</p> + +<p>He also employed himself in publishing the account of his recent voyage, +the only one which he himself edited.</p> + +<p>He was not, however, long at rest. The Admiralty wished to send an +expedition to explore the north-western coasts of North America, and to +examine the Polar Sea from the Bering Straits side, with a view of the +discovery of a north-west passage. Cook seems to have volunteered for the +command without being actually asked, and, needless to say, was at once +accepted.</p> + +<p>In February he once more received his commission to command the +Resolution, this time accompanied by the Discovery, a vessel very similar +to the Adventure, his consort during the last voyage. Clerke, a master's +mate in the Endeavour, and second lieutenant in the Resolution, was +appointed as commander to the Discovery. He, like Cook, was fated not to +return from this third journey to the great Pacific.</p> + +<p>Others who had sailed with Cook before were ready to accompany him, once +more to encounter privations and find new lands.</p> + +<p>Cook's orders were long and detailed, but were to the effect that he was +to proceed by way of the Cape of Good Hope to search in the Indian Ocean +for the land recently seen by M. Kerguelen; thence via Tahiti, on to the +coast of North America in about latitude 45 degrees, which he was to +follow to latitude 65 degrees, searching especially for any channel which +might lead to the north-east, as it was supposed there might be a passage +communicating with Hudson's Bay. He was further to look for any passage +north of North America to the Atlantic, and to make such other +explorations as might seem fit to him. A money reward of 20,000 pounds +was also offered in case of success in finding such a passage.</p> + +<p>Chronometers were again carried, and more confidence in them being felt, +more use was made of them.</p> + +<p>Cook took with him Omai, a young Society islander, who had induced +Captain Furneaux to take him to England, and whom Cook now engaged to +return to his native country.</p> + +<p>The ships sailed on July 11th, 1776, and arrived at Table Bay on October +18th.</p> + +<p>Sailing thence on November 30th, he passed and roughly mapped Prince +Edward's, Marion, and Croset's Islands, all of which had been discovered +by Marion de Fresne. He then struck Kerguelen's Land, spent Christmas Day +in one of its harbours, and mapped the eastern side of this large but +desolate island. He was unaware that Kerguelen had visited this island a +second time, and had gained much more information about it than he did in +his first voyage.</p> + +<p>Cook had taken on board at the Cape as many cattle, horses, bulls, cows, +goats, and sheep as he could stow, with a view of landing them at Tahiti +or elsewhere, and it is without surprise that we learn that after several +weeks in these stormy seas a good many of them had died. When we consider +the size of the ships the wonder is where they found room for these +animals.</p> + +<p>On January 26th the ships arrived in Tasmania, and anchored in Adventure +Bay, principally with a view of getting fodder for the remaining cattle. +Pigs were left here, according to Cook's usual custom.</p> + +<p>After four days the ships sailed, and arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +New Zealand, on February 12th, 1777. Here Cook learnt the history of the +attack on the Adventure's boat's crew from the chief who led it, but made +no attempt at reprisals, although urged by many other natives to kill +him. He seems to have been guided by the consideration that, as related +by the natives, it was a dishonest act of barter on the part of one of +the sailors which commenced the disturbance; and that occurring so long +before, no good purpose would be served by punishment. It says much for +his humane treatment of natives.</p> + +<p>On leaving this, Cook records that he had at different times left about a +dozen pigs in New Zealand. These increased, and stocked the whole island +by the time the English settlers arrived.</p> + +<p>On the way to Tahiti Cook fell across several islands belonging to what +was afterwards called after him, the Cook Group. He visited Mangaia, +Atiu, Takutea,* (* Spelt by Cook Mangeea, Wateeo, and Otakootaia.) and +the Hervey Islands. Relations were established with the natives, and Cook +was much interested at finding on Atiu three natives of the Society +Islands, the survivors of twelve, who had been blown away in a canoe, and +landed on this island, five hundred miles distant. As he remarks, this +throws great light on the manner in which the different islands of the +Pacific have been peopled.</p> + +<p>Cook now made up his mind that he was too late to prosecute discovery +this year on the American Continent, it being well into April, and being +anxious to save the remaining cattle that he wished to land at Tahiti, +and which had been taken on board especially for this purpose, the island +being still far to windward, he bore away for the Friendly Islands for +fodder and refreshments. He landed on Palmerston on the way--an island +discovered last voyage--and arrived at Namuka* (* Cook's Anamooka.) on +May 1st, with not a sick man in the ships.</p> + +<p>The ships remained in the Friendly Group for two months and a half, +visiting and mapping the different islands, and learning much of the +manners of this interesting race, seeing their great concerted dances, +and the ceremonies of coming of age of the heir to the throne. Cook here +first became acquainted with the mysterious rite of Tabu, which was +closely connected with his own death. A selection of useful animals, +including horses, were left at Tongatabu.</p> + +<p>While at the Friendly Islands Cook heard of the Fiji Group, and saw some +of the natives, who had come over in a canoe. The intelligence he was +able to gather concerning them was imperfect, and he saw no reason to +justify a long detour to leeward to search for them, when his object was +to stock the Society Islands with the animals he had. Had he known their +size and importance, his course might possibly have been different. As it +was, he sailed for Tahiti, and discovering Tubuai, one of the Austral +Group, on his passage, arrived there on August 13th, 1777.</p> + +<p>Six weeks were spent here, and the old friendships further cemented. +Bulls and cows and other animals were presented to the king. Cook also +attended at several ceremonies consequent on war being declared against +Eimeo, which included the offering of the dead body of a man, previously +killed for the purpose, to the war god. He positively refused to aid in +this war, which very shortly came to an end.</p> + +<p>Eimeo was next visited, and here the theft of a goat, which Cook intended +to land at Huaheine, induced him to take severe measures to get it back. +Several war canoes and houses were destroyed before it was returned. At +Huaheine, Omai was established, with many valuable European articles in +his possession. Here again Cook acted with considerable severity in the +case of a thief cutting off his ears, and confining him on board. His +action has been questioned, but considering his humane character, and the +judgment that he always displayed in these questions, we are justified in +believing that he had good reason for departing from his ordinary custom +of mild treatment of natives. At Ulietea, or Raiatea, next visited, a +midshipman and a seaman of the Discovery deserted. Cook took his usual +step of confining some natives of importance, and informing their +relatives that they would be retained until the deserters were returned. +In this case he impounded the king's son and daughter, with the desired +effect, as the stragglers were soon brought back from Bolabola, whither +they had gone; but both Cook and Captain Clerke were nearly captured by +the natives when on shore in the interval.</p> + +<p>It is only surprising that more of Cook's people did not attempt to +remain in these pleasant islands. The hardships of the sea press much on +certain natures, and the allurements of the easy and careless life of a +tropical island offered such a contrast, that it scarcely required the +desire of the natives to get white men with their superior knowledge, and +above all superior arms, to remain with them, to induce them to desert. +This last, however, made desertion more easy, and had not Cook taken +strong measures, no doubt the epidemic would have spread.</p> + +<p>After visiting Bolabola, Cook sailed north, to prosecute the main object +of his voyage, the exploration of the north-west coast of America. On +December 24th he fell in with Christmas Island, which he so named from +the season. After mapping it, and getting many turtle, he continued his +course to the north, and discovered Atooi or Kauai, the western island of +the Sandwich Group.</p> + +<p>Communicating with this island and another, he finally left on February +3rd, 1778, and on March 7th made the coast of North America, a little +south of the Columbia River. Gales ensued, and Cook missed the entrance +of Juan de Fuca Strait, making the land again a little north of it.</p> + +<p>Anchoring first in Nootka Sound in Vancouver Island--though Cook did not +know it was an island--the ships continued their exploration to the +north-west, skirting the coast as near as stormy weather permitted them, +and calling at various places until the north-west extremity of the +Alaska Peninsula was reached. In one place, afterwards called Cook's +River, it was hoped that the desired passage eastward was found; but it +was soon discovered that it was merely an inlet.</p> + +<p>Passing through the Aleutian Chain, east of Unalaska, Cook visited that +island, and continued his voyage through the Bering Sea, clinging to the +land as much as possible, and finally got into Bering Strait. Here he had +both continents in sight, and communicated with both sides.</p> + +<p>Standing further north, he, in latitude 70 degrees 30 minutes north, came +across the icy barrier of the Arctic Sea. After vainly trying for a +passage in fog and strong wind, surrounded by loose ice, and after +mapping a good deal of the shores on both sides, the ships again turned +south at the end of August, exploring as they went first on the Asiatic +side, and afterwards on the American, especially examining Norton Sound. +In the beginning of October they once more arrived at Unalaska, and the +Resolution having sprung a dangerous leak, the opportunity was taken to +stop it.</p> + +<p>On October 26th the ships sailed for the Sandwich Islands, where Cook had +determined to winter, for the double purpose of refreshing his crew, +gaining more knowledge of the Group, and being in a convenient position +for resuming his exploration in the spring.</p> + +<p>The voyage just accomplished was very remarkable, whether for the amount +of coast mapped, which extended for between three and four thousand +miles, or for the determination with which it was prosecuted in +tempestuous and thick weather, on a most dangerous and inhospitable +coast, part of the time in ice. The crews were perfectly healthy, with no +sign of scurvy, and he brought both his ships off without any damage.</p> + +<p>Maui, another of the Sandwich Group, was made on November 26th, and after +communicating, the ships stood over to Owhyhee (Hawaii). Wind was against +them, and it was not until January 17th that the two ships, having passed +along the north side of the island to the eastward, at last anchored in +Kealakekua Bay, on the south-west side.</p> + +<p>The events which followed the arrival of the ships at Hawaii, which +terminated in Captain Cook's death, were not understood at the time, but +have been elucidated by the inquiries of the early missionaries, which +throw much light upon the beliefs of the islanders.</p> + +<p>It appears that a tradition existed that a chief of earlier times, one +Rono, Orono, or Lono (the R and the L in the Pacific languages are almost +interchangeable), had, after killing his wife, become frantically insane, +and after travelling through the islands boxing and wrestling with all he +met, had departed in a canoe, prophesying that he would some day return +in an island with trees, hogs, and dogs. He was deified, and temples +erected in his honour.</p> + +<p>When Cook's ships arrived it was believed that the prophecy was +fulfilled. Rono had returned as he had said, and the natives flocked to +do him honour. When Cook landed he was received with adoration, the +crowds prostrating themselves, and the priests escorting him with much +ceremony. Led to a temple, he was clothed with red cloth, had pigs +offered to him, and was generally treated in a manner which, though +satisfactory as showing the friendly feelings of the natives, was +puzzling to the Europeans. This continued throughout their stay, presents +of all kinds being showered upon them. The officers, however, observed +that the warrior chiefs were not so enthusiastic as the priests and +common people. The death of a seaman, who was buried on shore in the +presence of a large concourse, would seem to have been the first +circumstance that threw doubts upon the godlike character of the +visitors; but the ready way in which the fence of a Morai or sacred +inclosure, which included various images, was granted for fuel, shows +that the priests still held to their idea. The king, Taraiopu (or +Terreooboo, as his name was written by Captain King), arrived shortly +after the ships anchored, and showed himself to be as much impressed with +the public belief as any of his subjects.</p> + +<p>Thus matters continued during the eighteen days the ships remained; but +towards the end of this time the natives began to show anxiety that they +should be gone. The drain of hogs and other provisions, which were poured +upon the visitors, doubtless led to anxious thoughts as to how long this +was to last; and probably those members of the community who were less +amenable to the influence of the priests, and were jealous of their own +authority, were by no means so certain that the popular opinion of the +supernatural nature of the white men was correct.</p> + +<p>The ships sailed on February 4th, but, as ill-luck had it, the Resolution +sprung her foremast in a gale, and Cook resolved to return to Kealakekua +Bay for repairs. Here they again anchored on the 11th.</p> + +<p>Their reception was, however, very different.</p> + +<p>No crowd of canoes round the ship; no enthusiastic mass of natives on +shore. Everything was silence.</p> + +<p>What had happened was that the king had departed, leaving the bay under +"tabu," i.e., a sacred interdict.</p> + +<p>The priests, however, received them with as much friendliness as before, +and the Morai was given up to them as a place of repairs for the damaged +mast.</p> + +<p>The king hurried back on hearing of the return of the ships, and removed +the tabu; but the native disposition was changed. Some of the party on +shore had persuaded women to break the tabu.</p> + +<p>Whether this affected relations is uncertain, but the inhabitants +generally exhibited considerable hostility, and headed by some chiefs, +showed an inclination to attack a watering party. Thefts followed, and +the capture of a canoe as a reprisal caused a scuffle on the beach, in +which the Englishmen were worsted by the crowd, though a friendly chief +soon restored order.</p> + +<p>Instructions were now given to the party on shore at the Morai to permit +no natives to approach in the night, and a musket was fired at one of +them who came near.</p> + +<p>On the morning of February 14th the Discovery's cutter was found to have +been stolen.</p> + +<p>Cook at once decided to have recourse to his usual practice, and get +either the king or some principal chief on board, as a hostage till it +was returned. He at the same time gave orders to prevent any canoes from +leaving the bay, in order that he might, if necessary, seize them, and +sent his boats to carry this out. Guns were fired from the ships at two +large canoes that attempted to pass. Cook himself landed with a small +armed force, and went in search of the king, who at once consented to +come on board. The conduct of Taraiopu throughout showed that he had +perfect confidence in Cook, and was entirely friendly, whether he still +believed in the Rono theory or not.</p> + +<p>While walking down to the boat, the natives, who were momentarily +increasing in numbers, implored the king not to go. His wife joined her +entreaties. Taraiopu hesitated. At this moment a man ran up and cried, +"It is war; they have killed a chief!" One of the guard boats had, in +fact, fired at a canoe attempting to leave the bay, and killed a man. The +natives at once ran to arms, and Cook, seeing his intentions frustrated, +walked towards the boat. A native attacked him with a spear, and Cook +shot him with his gun. Still, no further attack was made, but the men in +the boats hearing Cook's shot, and seeing the excited crowd, commenced to +fire without orders. Cook still moved to the shore, calling to his men to +cease firing; but whilst so doing, and with his back to the exasperated +natives, he was stabbed in the back with a dagger, and fell with his face +in the water.</p> + +<p>There was then general confusion. The boats were a little way from the +beach, and several of the marines were also killed, before they could +reach them. Cook's body was at once dragged off by the natives.</p> + +<p>The boats returned on board amid general consternation, and it is +mentioned that a general silence reigned on board when it was known that +their beloved commander had fallen.</p> + +<p>The party at the Morai were shortly after attacked, but beat off the +assailants, and reinforcements were sent from the ships. Lieutenant King, +a favourite officer of Cook's, behaved with great discretion, and +assisted by some of the priests, made a truce, during which the mast and +other articles on shore for repairs were got off.</p> + +<p>The sailors were mad for reprisals, but Captain Clerke, on whom the +command devolved, decided on pacific measures, and every attempt was made +to recover Cook's body. All that was obtained, however, were some of his +bones, which were brought down with much solemnity by a chief, and +delivered wrapped up in new cloth and red feathers.</p> + +<p>It was known in after years that Cook's body had been instantly cut up; +the flesh was burnt, as was the custom with great chiefs and many of the +bones were preserved with great honour in a Morai dedicated to Rono.</p> + +<p>It seems clear that Cook's death was due to a revulsion of feeling on the +part of some of the natives, who no longer believed in his divine +character, but that many regarded the outrage with horror. When the first +Europeans came to reside on the island, and learnt the story from the +native side, they found universal regret prevailing at this untoward +occurrence.</p> + +<p>Cook left officers imbued with his own noble sentiments. No general +attack was made in revenge for what they saw was the result of +misunderstanding, although they were ignorant of the exact circumstances +which led, first to the uncommon and extraordinary veneration with which +he had been treated, and then to the sudden change in the native +behaviour.</p> + +<p>It was found necessary to fire on the natives who prevented the watering +party from working, and some of the sailors on this duty burnt some +houses; but before the ships left, friendly relations were again +established, and many natives visited them.</p> + +<p>After Cook's remains had been committed to the sea, the prosecution of +the voyage was determined upon, although Captain Clerke was in the last +stage of consumption, and as soon as the Resolution's mast could be +repaired, the two vessels once more departed, on February 22nd, 1779.</p> + +<p>Cook's intentions were carried out as if he had still been in command. +The remainder of the Sandwich Group was mapped, and the ships proceeded +once more to the north. Calling at Petropavlovsk in Avatcha Bay, +Kamtchatka, they again passed through Bering Strait, and sought in vain +for a passage either to the north-east or north-west, being everywhere +baffled by dense masses of ice. Captain Clerke at last abandoned the +struggle, and repassed Bering Strait on his way south on August 1st.</p> + +<p>On August 22nd Captain Clerke died.</p> + +<p>This officer had accompanied Captain Cook in all his voyages, and had +also circumnavigated the globe in the Dolphin with Captain Byron before. +No man had seen more of the Pacific, and he proved himself, during his +short period of command, a worthy successor of Cook.</p> + +<p>Captain Gore, who had been with Cook on his First Voyage, now succeeded, +King being put as Commander into the Discovery, and the two ships made +the best of their way home, via Macao and the Straits of Sunda, arriving +at the Nore on October 4th, 1780, after an absence of four years and two +months. During the whole of this voyage not the slightest symptom of +scurvy appeared in either ship, so completely were Cook's precautions +successful.</p> + +<p>Cook had six children. Three died young. Of the others, all boys, the +eldest, James, entered the Navy, and lived to be a Commander, when, in +1794, he was drowned. The second, Nathaniel, also in the Navy, was lost +in a hurricane in 1780. The third died when at Cambridge. They none of +them lived to be married, and no descendant of the great navigator has +perpetuated his race.</p> + +<p>Of Cook's private life during his brief intervals at home we know +nothing. A man rising from the ranks, and of his reserved character, +would have but few friends, when he had such short time to make them in +his new sphere. He lived at Mile End when at home, but after his death +his widow removed to Clapham, living there for forty years, at first with +her cousin, Isaac Smith, who had served with Cook in the Endeavour and +Resolution. She died in 1835, at the great age of ninety-three.</p> + +<p>Of Cook's character, none could be a better judge than Captain King, who +writes as follows, after describing his death:--</p> + +<p>"Thus fell our great and excellent commander. After a life of so much +distinguished and successful enterprise, his death, as far as regards +himself, cannot be considered premature, since he lived to finish the +great work for which he seems to have been designed. How sincerely his +loss was felt and lamented, by those who had so long found their general +security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation in their +hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor +possible for me to describe. The constitution of his body was robust, +inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His +stomach bore without difficulty the coarsest and most ungrateful food. +Indeed, temperance with him was scarcely a virtue, so great was the +indifference with which he submitted to every kind of self-denial. The +qualities of his mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of +his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious. His judgment in +whatever related to the service he was engaged in quick and sure. His +designs were bold and manly, and both in the conception and in the mode +of execution bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage +was cool and determined, and accompanied by an admirable presence of mind +in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. His +temper might, perhaps, have been justly blamed as subject to haughtiness +and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most +benevolent and humane. Those intervals of recreation, which sometimes +unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing that +persons who have experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, +were submitted to by him with a certain impatience whenever they could +not be employed in making further provision for the more effectual +prosecution of his designs."</p> + +<p>This is a pretty complete picture, and of a great man; a man who had +before him continually his duty, and who had in an eminent degree the +capacity to carry it out.</p> + +<p>Though, under his determination to do this, he drove his people hard; +though he tried them with his irascibility; their conviction of his +greatness, their confidence in his leadership and in his justice, led +them to love him. He had no sympathy with the ordinary foibles and +weaknesses of his men. The charms of Tahiti, the paradise of the sailor, +were no charms for him; he hardly notices the attractive ladies of that +island; the attractions of the place to him were the abundance of +provisions, as a means of fitting his expedition for further exploration +and hardship. The strongest proof of his capacity as a commander is the +devotion of his officers. Those who know the Navy know how difficult it +is for any man who rises from the ranks to be successful in command. But +Cook was a gentleman born; he had the intuition of great minds for +fitting themselves to every position to which they may rise, and there is +never a whisper of disinclination to submit to the rule of the once +collier boy, the son of a labourer.</p> + +<p>His intelligence is remarkably shown in his greatest triumph, the +suppression of scurvy. That it should be left to a man of little +education to discern the combination of means by which this enemy of long +voyages could be conquered, is the most remarkable thing about this +remarkable man. He himself notices the disinclination of the sailor to +any new article of food, especially when not particularly palatable; but +he soon found the means to induce them to understand that their lives +greatly depended upon these rather nasty messes. Sour krout; the +unsavoury portable soups of that day; the strange greens that Cook +insisted on hunting up at every land he visited, and boiling with their +ordinary food; the constant washing between decks; the drying below with +stoves, even in the hottest weather; the personal baths; the change of +wet clothing; the airing of bedding, were all foreign and repugnant to +the notions of the seamen of the day, and it required constant +supervision and wise management to enforce the adoption of these odd +foods and customs.</p> + +<p>It is evident that it is to Cook's personal action the success was due. +Wallis and Byron had anti-scorbutics, but they suffered from scurvy; +Furneaux, sailing with Cook in the second voyage, under precisely similar +circumstances, suffered from scurvy. It was only in Cook's ships, and in +the Discovery, commanded and officered by men who had sailed with Cook, +and seen his methods, that exemption occurred.</p> + +<p>Cook did more, incomparably more, than any other navigator to discover +new lands. This was only accomplished by dint of hard work; and yet his +men suffered less than in any ships, British or foreign, or similar +expeditions. Though his tracks were in new and unknown waters, we never +hear of starvation; he always manages to have an abundant supply of +water.</p> + +<p>The completeness and accuracy of his accounts and charts are no less +remarkable.</p> + +<p>M. de La Perouse, one of the foremost of the great French navigators, +told Captain Phillip, the founder of the Colony of New South Wales, that +"Cook had left him nothing but to admire." This was all but literally +true; wherever Cook went he finished his work, according to the +requirements of navigation of his time. He never sighted a land but he +determined its dimensions, its shape, its position, and left true guides +for his successors. His charts are still for some parts unsuperseded, and +his recorded observations still save us from hasty and incorrect +alterations desired by modern navigators.</p> + +<p>Well may Englishmen be proud that this greatest of navigators was their +countryman.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="listofpersons"></a> +<h2>PERSONS WHO LEFT ENGLAND IN H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 26TH AUGUST, 1768.</h2> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-02"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-02to04.jpg"></p> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<h2> +A JOURNAL OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR,<br> +ON A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK,<br> +COMMANDER, COMMENCING THE 25TH OF MAY, 1768.</h2> + +<h3>EXPLANATION (FROM JOURNAL).</h3> + +<p>IT is necessary to premise by way of explanation, that in this Journal +(except while we lay at George's Island) the day is supposed to begin and +end at noon, as for instance, Friday the 27th May, began at noon on +Thursday 26th, and ended the following noon according to the natural day, +and all the courses and bearings are the true courses and bearings +according to the Globe, and not by Compass. The longitude is counted West +from the meridian of Greenwich where no other place is particularly +mentioned. The proportional length of the log-line to the half minute +glass, by which the ships run was measured, is as thirty seconds is to +thirty feet.</p> + +<p>While the ship lay in port or was coasting in sight of land, or sailing +in narrow seas, this Journal is not kept in the usual form, but the +degrees of Latitude and Longitude the ship passes over are put down at +the top of each page, by which together with the notes in the margin* an +easy reference will be had to the Chart. (* These notes in the margin +have not been printed. ED.)</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch1"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER 1. ENGLAND TO RIO JANEIRO.</h2> + +<h3>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES ON BOARD HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR.</h3> + +<h4>1768.</h4> + +<p>[May to July 1768.]</p> + +<p>RIVER THAMES, Friday, May 27th, to Friday, July 29th. Moderate and fair +weather; at 11 a.m. hoisted the Pendant, and took charge of the Ship, +agreeable to my Commission of the 25th instant, she lying in the Bason in +Deptford Yard. From this day to the 21st of July we were constantly +employed in fitting the Ship, taking on board Stores and Provisions, etc. +The same day we sailed from Deptford and anchored in Gallions reach, were +we remained until the 30th. The transactions of Each Day, both while we +lay here and at Deptford, are inserted in the Log Book, and as they +contain nothing but common Occurrences, it was thought not necessary to +insert them here.</p> + +<p>[July to August 1768.]</p> + +<p>July 30th to August 7th. Saturday, July 30th, Weighed from Gallions, and +made sail down the River, the same day Anchored at Gravesend, and the +next Morning weighed from thence, and at +Noon Anchored at the Buoy of the Fairway. On Wednesday, 3rd of August, +Anchored in the Downs in 9 fathoms of water, Deal Castle North-West by +West. On Sunday, 7th, I joined the Ship, discharged the Pilot, and the +next day saild for Plymouth.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Fresh Breezes and Cloudy weather the most part of these 24 +hours. At 10 a.m. weighed and came to sail; at Noon the South Foreland +bore North-East 1/2 North, distant 6 or 7 Miles. Wind West by North, +North-West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. At 7 p.m. the Tide being +against us, Anchored in 13 fathoms of Water; Dungeness South-West by +West. At 11 a.m. Weighed and made Sail down Channel; at Noon, Beachy +Head, North by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues, Latitude observed 50 +degrees 30 minutes North. Wind North-West to North.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th. Variable: light Airs and Clear weather. At 8 p.m. Beachy +Head North-East by East, distant 4 Leagues, and at 8 a.m. it bore +North-East by North, 9 Leagues. Found the Variation of the Compass to be +23 degrees West; at Noon the Isle of Wight North-West by North. Wind West +by North, North-East by East.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 11th. Light Airs and Clear weather. At 8 p.m. Dunnose North by +West 5 Leagues, and at 4 a.m. it bore North-North-East 1/2 East, distant +5 Leagues. Wind Variable.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. Light Airs and Calms all these 24 Hours. At Noon the +Bill of Portland bore North-West 1/2 West, distant 3 Leagues. Latitude +Observed 50 degrees 24 minutes North. Wind Easterly.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. Ditto weather. At Noon the Start Point West 7 or 8 miles. +Latitude Observed 50 degrees 12 minutes North, which must be the Latitude +of the Start, as it bore West.* (* This is correct.) Wind Variable.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. Fine breezes and Clear weather. At 1/2 past 8 p.m. Anchored +in the Entrance of Plymouth Sound in 9 fathoms water. At 4 a.m. weighed +and worked into proper Anchoring ground, and Anchored in 6 fathoms, the +Mewstone South-East, Mount Batten North-North-East 1/2 East, and Drake's +Island North by West. Dispatched an Express to London for Mr. Banks and +Dr. Solander to join the Ship, their Servants and Baggage being already +on board. Wind North-Easterly.</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. First and latter parts Moderate breezes and fair; Middle +squally, with heavy showers of rain. I this day received an order to +Augment the Ship's Company to 85 Men, which before was but 70. Received +on board fresh Beef for the Ship's Company. Wind South-West to +South-East.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 16th. First part moderate and Hazey; Middle hard Squalls with +rain; the Latter moderate and fair. Received on board a supply of Bread, +Beer, and Water. A Sergeant, Corporal, Drummer, and 9 Private Marines as +part of the Complement. Wind South-South-East to North-East.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 17th. Little wind and Hazey weather. Sent some Cordage to the +Yard in order to be Exchanged for Smaller. Several Shipwrights and +Joiners from the Yard Employed on board refitting the Gentlemen's Cabins, +and making a Platform over the Tiller, etc. Wind South-East to East by +South.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 18th. Little wind and Cloudy. Struck down 4 guns into the Hold. +Received on board 4 More, with 12 Barrels of Powder and several other +Stores. Shipwrights and Joiners Employed on board. Wind Easterly.</p> + +<p>Friday, 19th. Former part little wind with rain; remainder fair weather; +a.m. Read to the Ship's Company the Articles of War and the Act of +Parliament, they likewise were paid two Months' Wages in advance. I also +told them that they were to Expect no additional pay for the performance +of our intended Voyage; they were well satisfied, and Expressed great +Cheerfulness and readiness to prosecute the Voyage. Received on board +another Supply of Provisions, Rum, etc. Wind North-West to South-West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 20th. First part little wind with rain; remainder fresh Gales +and thick rainy weather. Employed making ready for Sea. Wind +West-South-West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Ditto Weather. The Shipwrights having +finished their Work, intended to have sailed, instead of which was +obliged to let go another Anchor. Wind South-West, West-South-West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22nd. Fresh Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind and Rain all this +24 hours. Wind South-West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23rd. Ditto weather. Struck Yards and Topmasts; Anchored between +the Island and the Main His Majesty's Ship Gibraltar. Wind West by South.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather; a.m. hove up the Small +Bower Anchor and got Topmasts and Yards. Wind West by South.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25th. Moderate and Cloudy weather; a.m. received on Board a +supply of Beer and Water, and returned all our Empty Casks. Loosed the +Topsails as a Signal for Sailing. Wind West, North by West, North-West by +West.</p> + +<p>[Sailed from Plymouth.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 26th. First part fresh Breezes and Cloudy, remainder little wind +and Clear. At 2 p.m. got under Sail and put to Sea, having on board 94 +Persons, including Officers, Seamen, Gentlemen, and their Servants; near +18 Months' Provisions, 10 Carriage Guns, 12 Swivels, with good Store of +Ammunition and Stores of all kinds. At 8 the Dodman Point +West-North-West, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; at 6 a.m. the Lizard bore +West-North-West 1/2 West, 5 or 6 Leagues distant. At Noon Sounded and had +50 fathoms, Grey sand with small Stones and broken Shells. Wind North by +West, North-West, West by South; course South 21 degrees East; distance +23 miles; latitude 49 degrees 30 minutes North, longitude 5 degrees 52 +minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 21 degrees West distant 23 miles.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 27th. First part Light Airs and Clear weather, remainder fresh +breezes and Cloudy. Berthed the Ship's Company, Mustered the Chests and +Stove all that were unnecessary. Wind North-West, North-East, South-East; +course South-West; distance 77 miles; latitude 48 degrees 42 minutes +North, longitude 6 degrees 49 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 29 +degrees East, 80 miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 28th. Former part fresh Gales and Hazey with rain; remainder a +Moderate breeze and Cloudy. Wind Easterly; course South 48 degrees West; +distance 130 miles; latitude 47 degrees 16 minutes North, longitude 9 +degrees 7 minutes West; at noon Lizard North 40 degrees 5 minutes East; +69 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 29th. Light Airs and Hazey the Most part of these 24 hours with +some Rain. Wind North-Westerly; course South 21 degrees West; distance 41 +miles; latitude 46 degrees 38 minutes North, longitude 9 degrees 29 +minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 37 degrees 45 minutes East, 86 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 30th. Fresh Gales all these 24 Hours. At 1/2 past 1 p.m. Spoke +with His Majesty's Ship Guardaloupe; at 6 Close Reeft the Topsails, and +got down the Top Gallant Yards. Wind Westerly; course South 27 degrees +West; distance 33 miles; latitude 46 degrees 9 minutes North, longitude 9 +degrees 52 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 36 degrees East, 96 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 31st. First and Middle parts, Moderate breezes and Clear; +Latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 6 p.m. loosed the 2nd Reef out of the +Topsails, and at 8 a.m. took them in again; at Noon Tacked and stood to +the North-West, having stood before to the Southward. Wind West to +South-West; course South 36 degrees East; distance 82 miles; latitude 45 +degrees 3 minutes North, longitude 8 degrees 43 minutes West; at noon, +Lizard North-North-East, 105 leagues.</p> + +<p>[September 1768. Plymouth to Madeira.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, September 1st. Very hard gales, with some heavy showers of +Rain, the most part of these 24 Hours, which brought us under our two +Courses, Broke one of our Main Topmast phuttock Plates, washed overboard +a small Boat belonging to the Boatswain, and drowned between 3 and 4 +Dozen of our Poultry, which was worst of all. Towards Noon it moderated, +so that we could bear our Maintopsail close Reefd. At Midnight wore and +stood to the Southward. Wind Westerly; course South 70 degrees West; +distance 20 miles; latitude 44 degrees 56 minutes North, longitude 9 +degrees 9 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 28 degrees 15 minutes West, +109 leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd. Fresh Gales and Cloudy the most part of these 24 hours. P.M. +got up the spare Mainsail to dry, it being Wet by the Water getting into +the Sail room, occasioned by the Ship being very Leakey in her upper +works. At 5 a.m. loosed 2 Reefs out of each Topsail, and saw the Land, +which we judged to be Cape Finister and Cape Ortugal. At 10 Tackt, being +about 4 miles off Shore, and stood to the North-West; at Noon, Cape +Ortugal bore East by South, distance about 8 Leagues. Wind North by West, +West, South-West, West-South-West; course South by West; distance 64 +miles; latitude 43 degrees 53 minutes North, longitude 9 degrees 26 +minutes West; at noon, Lizard North-North-East, 130 leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3rd. First part little wind and Hazey, with rain; remainder +strong Gales with hard squalls, which brought us under our close Reeft +Topsails, and obliged us to strike Topgallant Yards. At 8 a.m. wore ship +and stood to the Southward. Wind South-West and West; course South 68 +degrees 45 minutes West; distance 44 miles; latitude 44 degrees 9 minutes +North, longitude 10 degrees 20 minutes West; at noon, Lizard North 29 1/2 +degrees East, 138 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 4th. Fore part fresh Gales and Clear; remainder light Airs and +Calm. At 6 a.m. Cape Finister bore South by West 1/2 West, distance 10 or +11 leagues. Loosed all the Reefs out of the Topsails, and got Topgallant +Yards across. Wind Westerly, Calm; at noon, Island of Cyserga,* (* +Sisarga, near Coruna.) East-South-East 3 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. Light breezes and Calm all these 24 hours. At 2 p.m. had an +Observation of the Sun and Moon, which gave the Longitude 8 degrees 42 +minutes West from Greenwich. At 6 Cape Finister bore South by West 1/2 +West, 6 Leagues. Variation of the Compass per Azimuth 18 degrees 42 +minutes West. At Noon, Cape Finister South by East, distant 4 leagues; +latitude observed 43 degrees 4 minutes, therefore Cape Finister must lay +in latitude 42 degrees 53 minutes North.* (* This is correct.) Wind +Westerly, North-West, Calm.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather these 24 Hours. A.M. +found the Variation by the Mean of 5 Azimuth to be 21 degrees 40 minutes +West, 3 Degrees more than what it was found Yesterday, which I cannot +account for,* (* Cook, as all other navigators of his time, was unaware +of the deviation of the compass caused by the iron of the ship.) as both +Observations appeared to me to be equally well made. At 10.28 had an +Observation of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 9 degrees 40 +minutes West from Greenwich. By this Observation Cape Finister must lay +in 8 degrees 52 minutes, and by that made yesterday in 8 degrees 40 +minutes. The Mean of the two is 8 degrees 46 minutes West of Greenwich +the Longitude of the Cape,* (* The correct longitude is 9 degrees 15 +minutes West.) its latitude being 42 degrees 53 minutes North. Wind +North-West; course South 42 degrees West; distance 70 miles; latitude 42 +degrees 1 minute North, longitude 9 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon, +Cape Finister North 42 degrees East, 70 miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather; found the Variation +to be 21 degrees 4 minutes West. Wind West-North-West; course South by +West; distance 92 miles; latitude 40 degrees 29 minutes North, longitude +10 degrees 11 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North 13 degrees East, +49 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 8th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy weather. A.M. Past by 2 Sail, which +were standing to the North-East. Wind West-North-West to West by South; +course South 4 degrees East; distance 111 miles; latitude 38 degrees 33 +minutes North, longitude 10 degrees West; at noon, Cape Finister North 12 +degrees East, 88 leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 9th. First part fresh Gales; remainder moderate breezes and fine, +Clear weather. Set up the Topmast rigging, and found the Variation to be +19 degrees 50 minutes West. Wind West by North to North-East; course +South 40 degrees West; distance 116 miles; latitude 37 degrees 4 minutes +North, longitude 11 degrees 33 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North +20 degrees East, 124 leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. A steady, fresh breeze and fine Clear weather. Found the +Variation of the Compys by the Evening and Morning Amplitude and by 2 +Azimuth to be 20 degrees 59 minutes West. Wind North-East by East; course +South 36 minutes West; distance 130 miles; latitude 35 degrees 20 minutes +North, longitude 13 degrees 28 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North +24 degrees East, 166 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. The same Winds and weather Continue. Found the Variation to +be this Evening 18 degrees 54 minutes, and in the Morning 17 degrees 58 +minutes West, they both being the mean result of several good +Observations. Wind North-East by East, North by East; course South 32 +degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 34 degrees 1 minute North, +longitude 14 degrees 29 minutes West; at noon, Cape Finister North 26 1/2 +degrees East, 198 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. Moderate breezes and fine Clear weather. At 6 a.m. the +Island of Porto Santo bore North-West by West, distance 9 or 10 leagues. +Hauld the Wind to the westward at noon, the Deserters extending from +West-South-West to South-West by South, the Body of Madeira West 1/2 +South, and Porto Santo North-North-West 1/2 West. Wind North-North-West; +course South 40 degrees West; distance 102 miles; latitude 32 degrees 43 +minutes North, longitude 15 degrees 53 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. Fresh breezes and clear weather. At 8 p.m. anchored in +Funchal Road in 22 fathoms. Found here His Majesty's Ship Rose and +several Merchants' Vessels. In the Morning new berthed the Ship, and +Moor'd with the Stream Anchor, half a Cable on the Best Bower and a +Hawser and a half on the Stream Wind North-West.</p> + +<p>MOORED IN FUNCHAL ROAD, MADEIRA, Wednesday, 14th. First part fine, Clear +weather, remainder Cloudy, with Squals from the land, attended with +Showers of rain. In the Night the Bend of the Hawsers of the Stream +Anchor Slip'd owing to the Carelessness of the Person who made it fast. +In the Morning hove up the Anchor in the Boat and carried it out to the +Southward. In heaving the Anchor out of the Boat Mr. Weir, Master's Mate, +was carried overboard by the Buoy rope and to the Bottom with the Anchor. +Hove up the Anchor by the Ship as soon as possible, and found his Body +intangled in the Buoy rope. Moor'd the Ship with the two Bowers in 22 +fathoms Water; the Loo Rock West and the Brazen Head East. Saild His +Majesty's Ship Rose. The Boats employed carrying the Casks a Shore for +Wine, and the Caulkers caulking the Ship Sides. Wind Easterly.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. Squals of Wind from the Land, with rain the most part of +these 24 Hours. Received on board fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's +Company, and sent on shore all our Casks for Wine and Water, having a +Shore Boat employed for that purpose. Wind North-East to South-East.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th. The most part fine, Clear weather. Punished Henry Stevens, +Seaman, and Thomas Dunster, Marine, with 12 lashes each, for refusing to +take their allowance of Fresh Beef. Employed taking on board Wine and +Water. Wind Easterly.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 17th. Little wind, and fine Clear weather. Issued to the whole +Ship's Company 20 pounds of Onions per Man. Employed as Yesterday. Wind +Westerly.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 18th. Ditto Weather. P.M. received on board 270 pounds of fresh +Beef, and a Live Bullock charged 613 pounds. Compleated our Wine and +Water, having received of the former 3032 Gallons, of the Latter 10 Tuns. +A.M. unmoor'd and prepar'd for Sailing. Funchall, in the Island of +Madeira, by Observations made here by Dr. Eberton, F.R.S., lies in the +latitude of 32 degrees 33 minutes 33 seconds North and longitude West +from Greenwich 16 degrees 49 minutes,* (* Modern determination is 32 +degrees 38 minutes North, 16 degrees 54 minutes West.) the Variation of +the Compass 15 degrees 30 minutes West, decreasing as he says, which I +much doubt;* (* Cook was right: the variation was increasing.) neither +does this Variation agree with our own Observations. The Tides flow full, +and Change North and South, and rise Perpendicular 7 feet at Spring Tides +and 4 feet at Niep tides. We found the North point of the Diping Needle, +belonging to the Royal Society, to Dip 77 degrees 18 minutes. The +Refreshments for Shipping to be got at this place are Wine, Water, Fruit +of Several Sorts, and Onions in Plenty, and some Sweatmeats; but Fresh +Meat and Poultry are very Dear, and not to be had at any rate without +Leave from the Governour. Wind southerly, East-South-East, South-West.</p> + +<p>[Sailed from Madeira.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 19th. Light breezes and fine Clear weather. At Midnight Sailed +from Funchall. At 8 a.m. the high land over it bore North 1/2 East. +Unbent the Cables, stow'd the Anchors, and issued to the Ship's Company +10 pounds of Onions per Man. Ship's Draught of Water, Fore 14 feet 8 +inches; Aft 15 feet 1 inch. Wind East-South-East; latitude 31 degrees 43 +minutes North; at noon, High land over Funchall North 7 degrees East, 49 +miles.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 20th. Light Airs and Clear weather. P.M. took several Azimuth, +which gave the Variation 16 degrees 30 minutes West. Put the Ship's +Company to three Watches. Wind variable; course South 21 degrees 30 +minutes West; distance 28 miles; latitude 31 degrees 17 minutes, +longitude 17 degrees 19 minutes West; at noon, Funchall, Island of +Madeira, North 13 degrees East, 76 miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 21st. First part light Airs, remainder fresh Breezes and Clear +weather. Served Hooks and Lines to the Ship's Company, and employed them +in the day in making Matts, etc., for the Rigging. Wind South-West to +South-West by West; course South 60 degrees East; distance 60 miles; +latitude 30 degrees 46 minutes North, longitude 16 degrees 8 minutes +South; at noon, Funchall North 10 degrees West, 113 miles.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22nd. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. saw the +Salvages bearing South; at 6, the Body of the Island bore South 1/2 West, +distant about 5 leagues. Found the Variation of the Compass by an Azimuth +to be 17 degrees 50 minutes West. At 10 the Isles of Salvages bore West +by South 1/2 South, distance 2 leagues. I make those Islands to be in +latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes South, and South 16 degrees East, 58 +leagues from Funchall, Madeira. Wind South-West; course South 35 degrees +30 minutes East; distance 73 miles; latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes North, +longitude 15 degrees 31 minutes West; at noon, Funchall North 21 degrees +West, 62 leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 23rd. Light breezes and Clear weather. At 6 a.m. saw the Peak of +Teneriff bearing West by South 1/2 South, and the Grand Canaries South +1/2 West. The Variation of the Compass from 17 degrees 22 minutes to 16 +degrees 30 minutes, Wind South-West, North-East; course South 26 degrees +West; distance 54 miles; latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes North, longitude +15 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon, Funchal North 12 degrees 45 minutes +West, 77 leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 24th. A fresh Breeze and Clear weather the most part of these +24 Hours. I take this to be the North-East Trade we have now got into. At +6 p.m. the North-East end of the Island of Teneriff West by North, +distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Off this North-East point lies some Rocks high +above the water. The highest is near the point, and very remarkable. By +our run from Yesterday at Noon this end of the Island must lie in the +latitude of 28 degrees 27 minutes and South 7 degrees 45 minutes East, +distance 83 leagues from Funchal, and South 18 degrees West, 98 miles +from the Salvages. At 1 a.m. the Peak of Teneriff bore West-North-West. +Found the Variation to be this morning 16 degrees 14 minutes West. The +Peak of Teneriff (from which I now take my departure) is a very high +Mountain upon the Island of the same name--one of the Canary Islands. Its +perpendicular higth from Actual Measurement is said to be 15,396 feet.* +(* The received height is 12,180 feet. Latitude 28 degrees 16 minutes +North, Longitude 16 degrees 38 minutes West.) It lies in the Latitude of +28 degrees 13 minutes North, and Longitude 16 degrees 32 minutes from +Greenwich. Its situation in this respect is allowed to be pretty well +determined. Wind North-East by East; latitude 27 degrees 10 minutes +North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 18 degrees 45 minutes, 74 miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 25th. A Steady Trade Wind and Clear Weather. The Variation by the +Amplitude this Evening was 14 degrees 58 minutes West. Wind East by +North, East-North-East; course South 41 degrees West; distance 126 miles; +latitude 25 degrees 36 minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 33 +degrees 15 minutes East, 61 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. Fresh breezes and somewhat Hazey. Variation by this Evening +Amplitude 15 degrees 1 minute West. Wind North-East by East; course South +22 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 122 miles; latitude 23 degrees 43 +minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff North 29 degrees East, 317 miles.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th. Ditto weather. Served Wine to the Ship's Company, the Beer +being all Expended but 2 Casks, which I intend to keep some time Longer, +as the whole has proved very good to the last Cask. At Noon found the +Ship by Observation 10 miles a Head of the Log, which I suppose may be +owing to a Current setting in the same direction of the Trade Wind. Wind +North-East; course South 19 degrees West; distance 145 miles; latitude 21 +degrees 26 minutes North; at noon, Peak of Teneriff, North 26 degrees +East, 154 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 28th. A Fresh Trade wind and Hazey weather. The Variation of +the Compass by the mean of Several Azimuth taken this Evening 12 degrees +46 minutes, and in the Morning by the same Method 12 degrees 43 minutes +West. This day's Log and Observed Latitude agree, which is not +reconcilable to Yesterday. Exercised the People at Small Arms. Wind +North-East, East-North-East; course South 12 degrees 30 minutes West; +distance 150 miles; latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes North; at noon, Peak +of Teneriff North 23 degrees 15 minutes East, 204 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 29th. Fresh breezes and Hazey weather. The Variation 12 degrees +33 minutes West; the Observed Latitude ahead of that given by the Log 10 +miles. Wind North-East by North; course South 14 degrees West; distance +90 miles; latitude 17 degrees 32 minutes North; at noon Peak of Teneriff, +North 33 degrees East, 236 leagues.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape de Verd Islands.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 30th. A Steady breeze and Pleasant weather. At 6 a.m. saw the +Island of Bonavista (one of the Cape de Verd islands), Extending from +South by East to South-West by South, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Ranged the +East side of this Island at the Distance of 3 or 4 miles from the Shore, +until we were obliged to Haul Off to avoid a Ledge of Rocks which +stretched out South-West by West from the Body or South-East Point of the +Island 1 1/2 leagues. Had no ground with 40 fathoms a Mile without this +Ledge. The Island of Bonavista is in Extent from North to South about 5 +leagues, is of a very uneven and hilly Surface, with low sandy beaches on +the East side. The South-East part of the Island, from which I take my +Departure, by an Observation this day at Noon lies in the latitude of 16 +degrees North, and according to our run from Madeira in the longitude of +21 degrees 51 minutes West from Greenwich, and South 21 degrees West; 260 +leagues from Tenerriff. Drawings Numbers 1 and 2 represent the appearance +of the East side of this Island, where (2) is the South-East point, with +the hill over it, which is high, of a round Figure, and the southermost +on the Island. Wind North-East; course South 12 degrees 30 minutes West; +distance 97 miles; latitude 15 degrees 37 minutes North per observation; +Teneriffe, North 20 degrees 43 minutes East, 262 1/3 leagues; at noon the +hill on the South-East Point of the Island Bonavista North 69 degrees +West, distant from the shore 3 leagues.</p> + +<p>[October 1768.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, October 1st. A steady gale and somewhat Hazey. Variation by +very good Azimuths this Evening 10 degrees 37 minutes, and by the same in +the Morning 10 degrees 0 minutes West; at Noon found the ship a Head of +the Log 5 Miles. Wind North, North-North-East; course South 12 degrees 12 +minutes West; distance 114 miles; latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes North, +longitude 22 degrees 10 minutes West; at noon Island of Bonavista, +South-East point, North 9 degrees West, 116 miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 2nd. First part a Steady breeze and pleasant weather, remainder +light breezes and Cloudy. At noon found the Ship by Observation ahead of +the Log 7 miles. Wind North by East, North-North-West; course South 1 +degree West; distance 92 miles; latitude 12 degrees 34 minutes North, +longitude 22 degrees 10 minutes West; at noon Bonavista, South-East +point, North 5 degrees 45 minutes East, 69 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 3rd. Cloudy weather, with light winds and Calms. Variation by +this Evening Amplitude South 8 degrees 49 minutes West. A.M. hoisted out +a Boat to try if there was any Current; found one setting to the +South-East at the rate of 3/4 of a Mile per hour. Wind North, calm, +South-South-West 1/2 West; course South 3 degrees 30 minutes East; +distance 20 miles; latitude 12 degrees 14 minutes North, longitude 22 +degrees 10 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 +degrees East, 76 leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 4th. Calm for the Greatest part of the 24 Hours. By an +Observation we had this Morning of the Sun and Moon found our Selves in +the Longitude of 22 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds West from Greenwich; +that by account is 21 degrees 58 minutes, the Difference being 34 miles +Westerly, which does not agree with the Setting of the Current, for +having try'd it twice to-day and found it set to the East-South-East 1 +Mile per Hour, and at the same time found the Ship to the Southward of +the Log by the Noon Observation 10 miles. Served Portable soup and Sour +kroutt to the Ship's Company. Wind variable; course South 53 degrees +West; distance 17 miles; latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes North, longitude +22 degrees 33 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2 +degrees East, 82 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 5th. Light breezes of Wind, sometimes Clear and sometimes +Cloudy weather. Variation 6 degrees 10 minutes West by an Amplitude and +Azimuth this evening. At noon found the Ship by the Observed Latitude 7 +Miles to the Southward of the Log, and by the Observed Longitude 30 +degrees to the Eastward of Yesterday's Observations; and as these +Observations for finding the Longitude (if carefully observed with good +Instrument) will generally come within 10 or 15 Miles of each other, and +very often much nearer, it therefore can be no longer in Doubt but that +there is a Current setting to the Eastward;* (* This was the Counter +Equatorial Current.) yet we cannot have had this Current long, because +the Longitude by account and that by Observation agree to-day, but +Yesterday she was 28 miles to the Westward of the Observation. Wind calm, +North-East, East; course South 29 degrees East; distance 57 miles; +latitude 10 degrees 56 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 3 minutes +West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2 degrees East, 101 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 6th. First part light Breezes and Cloudy; Middle frequent heavy +Squalls, with rain, till towards Noon when we had again little wind. +Found the Variation by the mean of 3 Azimuth, taken this Morning, to be 8 +degrees 52 minutes West, which makes the Variation found Yesterday +doubtful. Wind North-East, South-East, Southerly; course South 10 degrees +30 minutes West; distance 77 miles; latitude 9 degrees 40 minutes North, +longitude 22 degrees 28 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East +point, North 4 degrees East, 128 leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Calm all these 24 Hours. At Noon +found the Current to set South-East 1/4 South one Mile per hour, and yet +by Observation at Noon I find the Ship 12 Miles to the Northward of +Account, a Circumstance that hath not hapned for many days, and which I +believe to be owing to the heavy Squalls we had Yesterday from the +South-East, which obliged us to put frequently before the Wind. Wind +Southerly, calm, Northerly; course South 5 degrees West; distance 10 +miles; latitude 9 degrees 42 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 19 +minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 4 degrees East, +127 leagues.</p> + +<p>[Between Cape de Verd Islands and Equator.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 8th. First part, light Airs and Clear weather; Middle, Squally, +with Thunder and Lightning all round; latter part, Moderate breezes and +Clear weather. Had several Azimuths both in the Evening and Morning, +which gave the Variation South 8 degrees 30 minutes West. At Noon found +by Observation that the Ship had outrun the Log 20 Miles, a Proof that +there is a Current setting to the Southward. Wind North-East by North to +East-South-East; course South by East; distance 78 miles; latitude 8 +degrees 25 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 4 minutes West; at noon, +Bonavista, South-East point, North 1 degree 45 minutes East, 152 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and fine Clear weather. Found the Variation by a +great Number of Azimuth made this Afternoon to be 8 degrees 21 minutes 30 +seconds West, and by the Morning Amplitude 7 degrees 48 minutes. At Noon +try'd the Current, and found it set North-North-West 3/4 West, 1 1/8 +miles per hour. The Shifting of the Current was conformed by the Observed +Latitude Wind East-South-East; course South 16 degrees West; distance 29 +miles; latitude 7 degrees 58 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 13 +minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 2 degrees 40 +minutes, 161 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. First part, light breezes and Clear weather; Middle, +squally, with heavy Showers of Rain; latter, Variable, light Airs and +Calm and dark gloomy weather. At 3 p.m. found the Current to set +North-North-East 1/4 East, 1 1/4 Mile per Hour, and at Noon found it to +set North-East 3/4 North at the same rate, and the Variation to be 8 +degrees 39 minutes West by the Mean of Several Azimuth. Wind South-East +by East, Southerly; course South; distance 10 miles; latitude 7 degrees +48 minutes North; longitude 22 degrees 13 minutes West; at noon, +Bonavista, South-East point, North 3 degrees East, 164 leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th. Very Variable weather, with frequent Squalls rain, and +Lightning. By the Observed Latitude at Noon I find the Ship hath only +made 22 Miles Southing since the last Observation two days ago, whereas +the Log gives 55 Miles, a Proof that there is a Current setting to the +Northward. Wind South-East; course South 52 degrees West; distance 18 +miles; latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes North, longitude 22 degrees 8 +minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 3 degrees East, +168 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. Much the same weather as Yesterday the first part, the +remainder mostly Calm and cloudy weather. A.M. try'd the Current and +found it set South by West 1/4 West, 1/2 Mile per Hour, which is not +agreeable to yesterday's remark. Wind variable; course South 33 degrees +30 minutes West; distance 20 miles; latitude 7 degrees 21 minutes North, +longitude 22 degrees 39 minutes West; at noon Bonavista North 5 degrees +East, 174 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. Light Airs of Wind, with some heavy showers of rain. +Variation by Azimuth and Amplitude this Evening 8 degrees 46 minutes +West. At Noon try'd the Current, and found it set South 3/4 East, 1/3 of +a Mile per Hour; but finding the Observation and Log agree, I am +inclinable to think it hath had no effect upon the Ship. Wind South-West, +West-South-West; course South 16 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 21 +miles; latitude 7 degrees 1 minute North, longitude 22 degrees 32 minutes +West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees East, 181 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 14th. Dark, gloomy weather, with much rain, the Wind Variable +from West-South-West to South-South-East, sometimes on one Tack and +sometimes on the other. Wind West-South-West to South-South-East; course +South 5 degrees East; distance 24 miles; latitude 6 degrees 38 minutes +North, longitude 22 degrees 30 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, +South-East point, North 3 degrees 15 minutes, 188 leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; Middle, Squally, with +rain; latter part, light Airs and Clear weather. A little before Noon +took several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which +gave the Longitude to be 23 degrees 46 minutes West from Greenwich, which +is 1 degree 22 minutes more Westerly than that by account carried on from +the last Observation; and the Observed Latitude is 24 Miles more +Northerly than the Log since the Last Observation 2 days ago, all of +which shows that the North-Westerly Current hath prevailed for this some +Days past. Wind South-South-West to South-East; course South 30 degrees +East per log; distance 12 miles; latitude 6 degrees 50 minutes North; +longitude 22 degrees 23 minutes West per account, 23 degrees 46 minutes +per sun and moon; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North by East, +187 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th. First part Calm, the remainder Gentle breezes and fine, +Pleasant weather. At 3 hours 30 minutes 39 seconds Apparent time p.m. the +observed distance of the sun and moon's nearest Limb was 52 degrees 42 +minutes 30 seconds; the Altitude of the sun's lower limb 32 degrees 39 +minutes; the Altitude of the moon's lower limb 58 degrees 36 minutes; the +longitude of the Ship from the aforegoing Observations 23 degrees 33 +minutes 33 seconds West from Greenwich, differing 13 minutes from those +made this Morning or Yesterday, the Ship laying all the time becalmed. +Variation of the Compass 8 degrees 45 minutes West. Wind South-East, +variable, North-East; course South 2 degrees East; distance 72 miles; +latitude 5 degrees 38 minutes North, longitude 23 degrees 45 minutes +West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees 15 minutes +East, 208 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 17th. Variable, light Airs and Calm clear weather. 1/2 past 1 +p.m. took two Distances of the sun and moon, the first of which gave the +Longitude 23 degrees 45 minutes 56 seconds, and the last 23 degrees 44 +minutes West, the difference being not quite two miles, which shows how +near to one another these observations can be made. Wind South, +South-East, variable; course South by West 1/2 West; distance 11 miles; +latitude 5 degrees 17 minutes North, longitude 23 degrees 47 minutes +West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 5 degrees 15 minutes +East, 212 leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. Sometimes little wind, sometimes Squally, with rain and +Lightning. Wind South to East-South-East; course South 48 degrees West; +distance 45 miles; latitude 4 degrees 47 Minutes North, longitude 24 +degrees 23 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East point, North 12 +degrees East, 229 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. The Observed Latitude +to the Northward of that given by the Log 9 miles, which I suppose must +be owing to a Current. Wind South by East to South-East by South; course +South 42 degrees West; distance 88 miles; latitude 3 degrees 44 minutes +North, longitude 25 degrees 23 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, +South-East point, North 14 degrees East, 253 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 20th. A Genteel gale and Clear weather. At a little before 5 +p.m. had an Observation of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 25 +degrees 46 minutes West from Greenwich, which is more Westerly than that +by account carried on from the last Observation; and the Observed +latitude being again to the Northward shows that there must be a current +setting between the North and West. Wind South by East to South-East by +South; course South 52 degrees West; distance 48 miles; latitude 3 +degrees 16 minutes North, longitude 26 degrees 20 minutes West; at noon, +Bonavista, North 18 degrees 30 minutes East, 270 leagues.</p> + +<p>[Crossing Equator.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 21st. A moderate breeze, and for the most part clear weather. +Longitude per the Mean of 2 Observations of the sun and moon made at 4 +hours 45 minutes and at 4 hours 54 minutes p.m., 26 degrees 33 minutes +West. Variation of the Compass 4 degrees 7 minutes West, and the Observed +Latitude at Noon to the Northward of the Log 7 Miles. Wind South-East to +South-South-East; course South 58 degrees West; distance 57 miles; +latitude 2 degrees 46 minutes North, longitude 27 degrees 11 minutes +West; at noon, Bonavista South-East point, North 21 degrees East, 281 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22nd. Moderate breezes and fine, pleasant weather. Variation 3 +degrees 17 minutes West. Wind South-East by South; course South 43 +degrees 15 minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 1 degree 40 minutes +North, longitude 28 degrees 12 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, +South-East point, North 23 degrees East, 312 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23rd. A moderate, Steady breeze and fine Clear weather. The Ship +by Observation at Noon is 8 Miles to the Northward of the Log. Wind +South-South-East; course South; distance 5 miles; latitude 1 degree 40 +minutes North, longitude 28 degrees 12 West; at noon, Bonavista, +South-East point, North 23 degrees East, 312 leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 24th. First part ditto weather; remainder fresh Breezes and +Cloudy, with some flying Showers of rain. Variation per Azimuth this +morning 3 degrees West. At Noon by Observation found the Ship 11 Miles +ahead of the Log. Wind South by East to South-East by South; course South +49 degrees West; distance 50 miles; latitude 1 degree 7 minutes North; +longitude 28 degrees 50 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East +point, North 25 degrees East, 328 leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th. A Genteel breeze and Clear weather, with a Moist Air. Soon +after sunrise found the Variation of the Compass to be 2 degrees 24 +minutes West, being the Mean result of several very good Azimuths. This +was just before we crossed the Line in the Longitude of 29 degrees 29 +minutes West from Greenwich. We also try'd the Diping Needle belonging to +the Royal Society, and found the North point to Dip 26 degrees below the +Horizon; but this Instrument cannot be used at Sea to any great degree of +accuracy on account of the Motion of the Ship, which hinders the Needle +from resting. However, as the Ship was pretty steady, and by means of a +Swinging Table I had made for that purpose, we could be Certain of the +Dip to two Degrees at most. The Observed Latitude and that by account +nearly Agree. Wind South-East to South-East by East; course South 30 +degrees West; distance 95 miles; latitude 0 degrees 15 minutes South, +longitude 29 degrees 30 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East +point, North 26 degrees East, 358 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. First part light Airs and Cloudy weather, the remainder +a Moderate Breeze and Cloudy. After we had got an observation, and it was +no longer Doubted that we were to the Southward of the Line, the Ceremony +on this occasion practis'd by all Nations was not Omitted. Every one that +could not prove upon the Sea Chart that he had before Crossed the Line +was either to pay a Bottle of Rum or be Duck'd in the Sea, which former +case was the fate of by far the Greatest part on board; and as several of +the Men chose to be Duck'd, and the weather was favourable for that +purpose, this Ceremony was performed on about 20 or 30, to the no small +Diversion of the Rest. Wind South-East to South-South-East; course South +31 degrees West; distance 77 miles; latitude 1 degree 21 minutes South, +longitude 30 degrees 18 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, South-East +point, North 25 degrees 30 minutes East, 385 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 27th. Fresh Gales and Close Cloudy weather. Variation 2 degrees +48 minutes West. Wind South-South-East to South-East; course South 38 +degrees 15 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 2 degrees 23 minutes +South, longitude 31 degrees 7 minutes West; at noon, Bonavista, +South-East point, North 26 degrees East, 410 leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 28th. Fresh Breeze and fine Clear weather. At a little past 1 +a.m. Longitude in by the 3 following Observations--viz., by the Moon and +the star Arietis, 32 degrees 27 minutes; by the Moon and Pollux, 32 +degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds; by ditto, 31 degrees 48 minutes 32 seconds; +the mean of the whole is 32 degrees 5 minutes 16 seconds West from +Greenwich, which is 31 minutes more Westerly than the longitude by +account carried on since the last Observation. The two first observations +were made and computed by Mr. Green, and the last by myself. The star +Arietis was on one side of the Moon and Pollux on the other. This day at +Noon, being nearly in the latitude of the Island Ferdinand Noronha, to +the Westward of it by some Charts and to the Eastward by others, was in +Expectation of seeing it or some of those Shoals that are laid down in +most Charts between it and the Main; but we saw neither one nor a Nother. +We certainly passed to the Eastward of the Island, and as to the Shoals, +I don't think they Exhist, grounding this my Opinion on the Journal of +some East India Ships I have seen who were detain'd by Contrary winds +between this Island and the Main, and being 5 or 6 Ships in Company, +doubtless must have seen some of them did they lay as Marked in the +Charts.* (* There is a very dangerous reef, As Rocas, 80 miles west of +Fernando Noronha. The Endeavour passed 60 miles east of latter.) Wind +South-East to South-East by East; course South 33 degrees West; distance +93 miles, latitude 3 degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 32 degrees 29 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. Fresh Breezes and pleasant weather. Variation of the +Compass 2 degrees 25 minutes West. Wind East-South-East; course South by +West; distance 101 miles; latitude 5 degrees 25 minutes South, longitude +32 degrees 48" West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. A Steady breeze, and for the most part close cloudy +weather. Variation by several Azimuths 1 degree 31 minutes West. At noon +the observed latitude 7 miles southward of account. Wind East-South-East; +course South 3/4 West; distance 107 miles; latitude 7 degrees 8 minutes +South, longitude 33 degrees 4 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 31st. A Fresh breeze and Clear weather. Variation 0 degrees 15 +minutes West. Observed Latitude again to the Southward of the Log. Wind +East to East-South-East; course, South 1/2 West; distance 114 miles; +latitude 9 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 33 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[November 1768. Between Equator and Rio.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, November 1st. Moderate breezes, for the most part Cloudy. +Variation by the mean of Several Azimuths 0 degrees 58 minutes West in +the Evening, and in the Morning found it to be 0 degrees 18 minutes West. +Wind East-South-East; course South 3/4 West; distance 98 miles; latitude +10 degrees 38 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 2nd. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. This +Afternoon, by the mean of Several Azimuths and the Amplitude, found the +Variation to be 0 degrees 34 minutes East, from which it appears that +about the aforegoing Noon we have Crossed the Line of no Variation in the +Latitude of 10 degrees 38 minutes South, and, according to the following +Observations, in 32 degrees 0 minutes West longitude from Greenwich. At 5 +hours 5 minutes 0 seconds Apparent time a.m. the longitude of the Ship +and the Observation of the moon and the star Aldebaran was found to be 32 +degrees 0 minutes 45 seconds; at 8 hours 17 minutes 0 seconds, per sun +and moon, 32 degrees 25 minutes 0 seconds; and at 9 hours 0 minutes 16 +seconds, 32 degrees 19 minutes 0 seconds. The mean of the three is 32 +degrees 14 minutes 55 seconds. And again at 7 hours 12 minutes 52 +seconds, per sun and moon, 32 degrees 10 minutes 4 seconds; and at 7 +hours 19 minutes 42 seconds, per sun and moon, 32 degrees 15 minutes 20 +seconds. The mean of these two is 32 degrees 12 minutes 42 seconds, and +the mean of the whole is 32 degrees 13 minutes 43 seconds West from +Greenwich, which is less by a whole Degree than that by account, which is +a Considerable Error to be made in 5 Days in these low Latitudes. One +would think from this that we must have had a Current setting to the +Eastward, which is not likely that it should set against the settled +trade wind. The 3 first of these Observations were made by Mr. Green, and +the 2 last by myself. Wind East-South-East, South; course South by West; +distance 132 miles; latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 32 +degrees 20 minutes West per Observation.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 3rd. A Fresh Trade wind and fair weather. Variation per Azimuth +this Evening 0 degrees 47 minutes East, and at a little past 9 a.m. +longitude in per sun and moon 33 degrees 0 minutes West of Greenwich. +Wind East by South-East; course South 15 degrees West; distance 128 +miles; latitude 14 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 33 degrees 7 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 4th. A Steady Gale and fair weather. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 1 +degree 29 minutes West, ditto 1 degree 28 minutes West, and by the +Amplitude 1 degree 12 minutes West; mean 1 degree 23 minutes West, by +which it appears that we have again Crossed the Line of no Variation. At +1/2 past 9 a.m. the longitude of the Ship, per Observation of the sun and +moon, 33 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds. Wind East by South; course South +19 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 125 miles; latitude 16 degrees 49 +minutes South, longitude 33 degrees 37 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 5th. Fine pleasant weather. Variation per Azimuth this morning +3 degrees 21 minutes East, which makes me Doubtful of the Variation found +yesterday, tho' at the time I had not the least room to doubt of the +Accuracy of the Observations. Longitude per Observation 34 degrees 43 +minutes 30 seconds West. Wind East to North-East; course South 30 degrees +35 minutes West; distance 109 miles; latitude 18 degrees 22 minutes +South, longitude 34 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 6th. First and Latter part squally, with heavy Showers of rain; +middle moderate and fair. I now determined to put into Rio de Janeiro in +preferance to any other port in Brazil or Falkland Islands, for at this +place I knew we could recruit our Stock of Provisions, several Articles +of which I found we should in time be in want of, and at the same time +procure Live Stock and refreshment for the People; and from the reception +former Ships had met with here I doubted not but we should be well +received. Wind North-North-East, variable, South; course South 55 degrees +West; distance 74 miles; latitude 19 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude +35 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 7th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. P.M. found the Variation +to be 4 degrees 49 minutes East. At 6 Sounded and had 32 fathoms Water; +the Bottom Coral Rocks, fine Sand and Shells, which Soundings we carried +upon a South-West 1/2 West Course 9 or 10 leagues, and then had no ground +with 100 fathom. We were by our account and per run afterwards 54 Leagues +East from the Coast of Brazil and to the Southward of the Shoals called +Abrollos, as they are laid down in Most Charts. Wind South-East to +North-East; course South 58 degrees West; distance 68 miles; latitude 19 +degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 36 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 8th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. variation by the +Mean of 12 Azimuths 5 degrees 26 minutes East, and by an Amplitude in the +Morning 7 degrees 52 minutes. At 6 a.m. saw the Land of Brazil bearing +North-West 1/2 North, distance 8 or 10 leagues. At 8 Sounded, had 37 +fathoms, Coarse Sand, broken Shells, and Coral Rocks. At 9 brought too +and Spoke with a Fishing Boat, who informed us that the land in sight lay +to the Southward of Santo Espiritu. It appears high and Mountainous; the +drawing Number (3) exhibits a View of this Land as it appeared from the +Ship (A), being near to Santo Espiritu, and a remarkable hill (B) bore +North-West 1/2 North, distance 7 or 8 leagues. Made Sail in Shore, the +wind being Southerly. Had from the above Depth to 14 fathoms the same +sort of Bottom. Found the Ship at Noon by Observation 10 Miles to the +Southward of account, which I suppose to be occasioned by a Current +setting between the South and West. Wind North-North-East, North by West, +South-South-West to South by West; course South 50 degrees West; distance +140 miles; latitude 21 degrees 16 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 35 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 9th. First and Latter part Hazey, with a Moderate Breeze; +Middle, fresh Gales, with Thunder, Lightning, and rain. At 3 p.m. tack't +in 16 fathoms, distance from the Shore 5 Leagues, the land Extending from +the North-West by West to North-East. At 5 took the 2nd Reef in the +Topsails and got down Topgallant Yards, stood to the South-East until +Midnight, then tack'd, Sounding from 16 to 55 fathoms. At 8 a.m. Loosed +the Reefs out of the Topsails and got Topgallant Yards a Cross; unstowed +the Anchors and bent the Cables. At Noon Latitude Observed 21 degrees 29 +minutes South, the Land Extending from South-West by South to +North-North-West, distance 4 leagues, Soundings from 55 to 10 fathoms. +Wind South-South-East, South-South-West, South; course South 62 degrees +15 minutes West; distance 28 miles; latitude 21 degrees 29 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[Nearing Rio Janeiro.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 10th. Moderate breezes and Hazey upon the Land. Stood in for +the Shore South-West 1/2 West. Depth of water from 10 to 9 fathoms and +from 9 to 16 fathoms, being then 4 Leagues from the Land. From 16 fathoms +it shoalded gradually to 5 fathoms; then we tacked, being about 1 1/2 +Leagues from the Shore. The extreams of the Land to the Southward, which +we took for Cape St. Thomas, bore South 3/4 West, distance 4 leagues. The +Land from Cape St. Thomas to the Northward lies North by East 1/2 East. +Along the Shore is low land covered with Wood and Sandy Beaches, but +inland are very high Mountains, the greatest part of them being hid in +the Clouds. Stood off until 5 in the Morning East and East by South. +Depth of Water 10, 20, 16, 23, and 30 fathoms. At Noon Latitude Observed +21 degrees 30 minutes; Depth of Water 14 fathoms; Grey sand with black +Specks. Extreams of the Land from South-West by West to North-North-West; +distance 12 or 14 leagues. Wind South-South-East, South-East by South, +South by East; course East 1/4 South; distance 17 miles; latitude 21 +degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 43 minutes West per +account.</p> + +<p>Friday, 11th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes and fair, but +Cloudy and Hazey over the Land; middle, a fresh breeze and Cloudy. At 8 +tack'd and Stood to the North-East. Extream of the Land to the southward, +which we took for Cape St. Thomas, South-West 1/2 South; distance 5 or 6 +leagues; Depth of Water 13 fathoms, Grey sand. At 11 a.m. tack'd in 14 +fathoms and Stood to the South-South-East, and at 3 a.m. Stood over a +Shoal or Bank of 6 fathoms, afterwards the Depth increased to 30 fathoms, +at Noon in 36 fathoms. Latitude Observed 22 degrees 37 minutes South, +which is 10 miles to the Southward of the Log. No Land in sight. Wind +South-East to East; course South 5 degrees West; distance 67 miles; +latitude 23 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude 37 degrees 49 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 12th. Genteel breezes and fine Clear weather. At 2 p.m. +Sounded, but had no ground with 38 fathoms, and soon after sounded and +had none at 50 fathoms, from which it appears that we are to the +Southward of the Bank we have been upon this 2 days past. It Extends off +from the Land between the Latitude 21 degrees and 22 degrees nor less +than 18 or 20 Leagues, How much farther I know not. Standing in from Sea, +the Depth of Water very soon diminisheth from 30 to 20 and 17 fathoms, +afterwards gradually from 9, 8 and even to 6 fathoms; but between this +Shoal Water and the Main, which is 6 or 7 leagues, you will have 10, 12 +and even 16 fathoms, till you come within 2 or 3 leagues of the Shore. +The Bottom is of Various kinds, sometimes Coral Rocks, Coral Rocks and +broken Shells, Coarse sand and broken Shells, Small Stones and at other +times fine Sand varying at almost every Cast of the Lead. At 5 p.m. saw +the Land bearing North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 10 or 12 leagues, +which proved to be the Island of Cape Frio; it appeared in two Hillocks, +and from the Deck looked like two Islands. Took several Azimuth of the +Sun, which gave the Variation 6 degrees 40 minutes East. At 8 a.m. the +Isle of Cape Frio bore West by North 4 leagues. This Island is situated +in the Latitude of 23 degrees 2 minutes South, and according to our +Reckoning in the Longitude of 38 degrees 45 minutes West from Greenwich, +but from many Circumstances I have good reason to think that our +reckoning is wrong and that it lies in the Longitude 41 degrees 10 +minutes West. It is not of a Large Circuit, but Tolerable high, with a +hollow in the Middle, which makes it look like 2 Islands when it first +makes its appearance out of the Water. It lays not far from the Main, +which with the Island forms a right Angle, one side trending North and +the other West. To the northward of the Island and between it and the +Main there appears to lay several smaller Islands near each other. The +Main land on the Sea Coast appears to be low, but inland are high +Mountains. Drawing Number 4 exhibits a View of this Island when it bore +West-North-West, distance 4 leagues. Wind North-East, East-North-East; +course South 60 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 59 miles; latitude 23 +degrees 6 minutes South; Isle of Cape Frio North 60 degrees East, 4 +leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 13th. First and Latter parts a Genteel Sea breeze and Clear +weather, the Middle Calm. P.M. standing along Shore for Rio De Janeiro +observed that the land on the Sea Coast is high and Mountainous, and the +shore forms some small Bays or Coves wherein are Sandy Beaches. At 8 +Shortned Sail; the Sugar Loaf Hill at the West Entrance to Rio De Janeiro +West-North-West, distant 4 or 5 leagues, at the same time was abreast of +2 Small rocky Islands, that lie about 4 Miles from the Shore. At 9 a.m. +Sprung up a light breeze at South-East, at which time we made Sail for +the Harbour, and sent the Pinnace with a Lieutenant before us up to the +city of Rio De Janeiro, to acquaint the Vice Roy with the reason that +induced us to put in here, which was to procure Water and other +refreshments, and to desire the Assistance of a Pilot to bring us into +proper Anchoring ground; at Noon Standing in for the Harbour.</p> + +<p>[At Rio Janeiro.]</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL AT RIO DE JANEIRO, Monday, 14th. Moderate Sea and Low breezes and +fine pleasant weather. At 5 p.m. Anchored in 5 fathoms just above the +Isle of Cobras, which lies before the City of Rio De Janeiro. A little +before we Anchor'd the Pinnace return'd and informed me that the Vice Roy +had thought proper to detain the Officer until I went ashore. Soon after +we Anchored a Boat came on board bringing several of the Vice Roy's +Officers, who asked many Questions in respect to the Ship: Cargo, from +whence she came, Number of Guns, Men, etc., all of which was Answered to +their satisfaction. They told me it was the Custom of the Port to Detain +the first Officer that came from any Ship on her first Arrival until a +Boat from the Vice Roy had Visited her; that my Officer would be sent on +board as soon as they got on shore, which was accordingly done. About +this time a Boat filled with Soldiers kept rowing about the Ship, which +had orders, as I afterwards understood, not to Suffer any one of the +Officers or Gentlemen, except myself, to go out of the Ship. In the +Morning I waited upon the Vice Roy and obtained leave to purchase +Provisions, Refreshments, etc., for the Ship, but obliged me to employ a +person to buy them for me under a pretence that it was the Custom of the +Place, and he likewise insisted (notwithstanding all I could say to the +contrary), on putting a Soldier into the Boats that brought anything to +or from the Ship, alledging that it was the Orders of his Court, and they +were such as he could not Dispence with, and this indignity I was obliged +to submit to, otherwise I could not have got the supplys I wanted; being +willing, as much as in me lay, to avoid all manner of Disputes that might +cause the least delay, and at the same time to Convince him that we did +not come here to Trade, as I believe he imagined--for he Certainly did +not believe a word about our being bound to the Southward to observe the +Transit of Venus, but looked upon it only as an invented story to cover +some other design we must be upon, for he could form no other Idea of +that Phenomenon (after I had explained it to him), than the North Star +Passing through the South Pole; these were his own words. He would not +permit the Gentlemen to reside ashore during our Stay here, nor permit +Mr. Banks to go into the country to gather plants, etc.; but not the +least hint was given me at this time that no one of the Gentlemen was to +come out of the Ship but myself, or that I was to be put under a Guard +when I did come; but this I was soon Convinced of after I took my leave +of His Excellency and found that an Officer was to attend upon me +whereever I went, which at first the Vice Roy pretended was only meant as +a Complement, and to order me all the Assistance I wanted. This day the +People were Employed in unbending the Sails, in fitting and rigging the +Spare Topmasts in the room of the others, and getting on shore Empty +Water Casks.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 15th. Fine pleasant weather. Received on board fresh Beef and +Greens for the Ship's Company, with which they was served every Day +During our Stay here. Got all the Empty Casks on shore, and set the +Coopers to Work to repair them; Heeld and Boot Topt the Starboard side.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 16th. Set up the Forge to repair the Iron Work; the People +employed in Heeling and Boot Topping the Larboard side, Blacking the +Yards, etc.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 17th. Set some People to repair the Sails and the Caulkers to +Caulk the Ship; the rest of the People employed in the Hold and about the +Rigging. For 3 days past I have remonstrated to the Vice Roy and his +Officers against his putting a Guard into my Boat, thinking I could not +Answer it to the Admiralty the tamely submitting to such a Custom, which, +when practiced in its full force, must bring Disgrace to the British +Flag. On the other hand, I was loath to enter into Disputes, seeing how +much I was like to be delay'd and imbarrassed in getting the supplys I +wanted, for it was with much difficulty that I obtained leave for one of +my People to attend the Market to buy necessaries for my Table and to +assist the Agent to buy the things for the Ship. Having gained this Point +and settled everything with the Agent in regard to what was wanting for +the Ship, I resolved, rather than be made a Prisoner in my own Boat, not +to go any more ashore unless I could do it without having a Soldier put +into the Boat, as had hitherto been done; and thinking that the Vice Roy +might lay under some Mistake, which on proper Application might be +clear'd up, I therefore drew up a Memorial stating the whole case and +sent to the Vice Roy this afternoon; and thus a Paper War commenced +between me and His Excellency, wherein I had no other Advantage than the +racking his invention to find reasons for treating us in the manner he +did, for he never would relax the least from any one point.</p> + +<p>Friday, 18th. This day I received an Answer to my Memorial, wherein he +tells me, amongst other things, that if I think it hard submitting to the +Customs of this Port I may leave it when I please; but this did not suit +my purpose at present, but I resolved to make my stay as short as +possible. I must own that the Memorial of the Vice Roy's was well drawn +up and very much to the Purpose, which is more than I can say of any of +the subsequent ones.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 19th. Close cloudy weather. Employed getting aboard Rum, Water, +and other necessaries. Caulking and refitting the Ship. Punished John +Thurman, Seaman, with 12 Lashes for refusing to assist the Sailmaker in +repairing the Sails.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 20th. First part cloudy weather; the Middle very hard Storms of +Wind and Rain; the Latter moderate, with rain. This Afternoon sent +Lieutenant Hicks in the Pinnace with an Answer to the Vice Roy's +Memorial, with orders not to Suffer a Soldier to be put into the Boat; +upon which the Guard Boat attended him to the Landing Place and reported +it to the Vice Roy, who refused to receive the Memorial, and ordered Mr. +Hicks on board Again; but in the Meantime they had put a Guard into the +Boat, which Mr. Hicks insisted should be order'd out, that he might +return on board in the same manner as he came, without a Guard; and upon +his refusing to return other way, all the Crew were by Arm'd force taken +out of the Boat (though they gave no provocation nor made the least +resistance) and hurried to Prison, where they remained until the next +day. Mr. Hicks was then put into one of their Boats, and brought on board +under the Custody of a Guard. Immediately upon my hearing of this I wrote +to the Vice Roy demanding my Boat and Crew and his Excellency's reason +for detaining her, and inclosed the Memorial he had before refused to +receive. This I sent by a petty Officer, as I had never objected against +a Guard being put into any of my Boats wherein was no Commissioned +Officer. He was admitted ashore and delivered the Letter, and was told an +Answer would be sent the next day. This evening, between 8 and 9 o'Clock, +came on an Excessive hard storm of Wind and Rain, the Longboat coming on +board the same time with 4 Pipes of Rum in her. The rope they got hold of +broke, and she went a Drift. The Yawl was immediately sent after her; but +the Longboat filling with Water, they brought her to a Grapnel and left +her, and the Yawl with the People got on board about 3 in the morning. +Early this Morning I sent to the Vice Roy to acquaint him with the loss +of our Boat, to desire leave and the Assistance of a Shore Boat to look +after her, and at the same time to demand the Pinnace and her Crew. After +some time the whole was granted, and we was so fortunate as to find the +Longboat the same Day, and likewise the 4 Pipes of Rum; but every other +thing that was in her was lost.</p> + +<p>Monday, 21st. This Morning I received his Excellency's Answer to my last +Memorial and Letter. In his Letter he owns there was some indecency in +Detaining the Boat, but lays the Blame to my Officer, who only Executed +the orders I gave him with Spirit. In one part of his Memorial he says +that from the Built of the Ship and other Circumstances he Doubts that +she is the King's. This I thought proper to Answer in Writing by telling +his Excellency that I was ready to produce my Commission. Rain the most +part of this Day.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 22nd. Moderate breezes, with frequent Showers of Rain. Employed +getting on board Water, Provisions, etc. Caulking the Ship and repairing +the Sails.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 23rd. Fine pleasant weather. Employed as before and setting up +the Rigging. This day I received from the Vice-Roy an Answer to my last +Memorial, wherein he still keeps up his Doubts that she is not a King's +Ship, and accuseth my people of Smuggling, a thing I am very Certain they +were not guilty of, and for which his Excellency could produce no proof, +notwithstanding many Artful means were made use of to tempt such of our +People as were admitted ashore to Trade by the Very Officers that were +under His Excellency's own Roof. I thought it incumbent on me to Answer +this Memorial, in which I desir'd His Excellency to take into Custody any +one of my People that should be found trading even if it amounted to no +more than one of the Sailors selling his Cloaths from off his Back for a +Bottle of Rum--for what His Excellency called smuggling I was very +certain amounted to no more, and even this was only Suspicions of my own.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 24th. This day a Spanish Packet (a Small Brig) from Buenos +Ayres put in here in her way to Spain. This Vessel belonged to his +Catholic Majesty, and notwithstanding the Vice-Roy had all along +pretended that the orders he had respecting Foreign Vessels were General, +yet this Vessel meet with very Different Treatment from us. No Guard was +put over her, and her Officers and Crew went wherever they pleased.* (* +The build and general appearance of the Endeavour not being that of a +man-of-war, the Portuguese authorities entertained suspicions regarding +her true character, which is not altogether surprising, considering the +times; but we can well understand Cook's indignation.)</p> + +<p>Friday, 25th, Saturday, 26th. Employed getting on board Water as fast as +the Coopers could set up and repair the Casks, setting up the rigging and +Caulking the Ship's sides.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 27th. Bent the Sails and Cleaned the Ship Fore and Aft.</p> + +<p>Monday, 28th. Fine pleasant weather. The Caulkers having finished the +sides, paid them with Tar. This day I unexpectedly received an Answer +from my last Memorial, wherein were only a few weak Arguments to support +His Excellency's Suspicions that the Ship did not belong to the King, and +that my People Smugled. This Memorial I answered.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 29th. Employed Lashing the Casks that were on the upper Deck and +between Decks and making ready for Sea.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 30th. Punished Robert Anderson, Seaman, and William Judge, +Marine, with 12 Lashes Each, the former for leaving his Duty ashore and +attempting to desert from the Ship, and the latter for using abusive +language to the Officer of the Watch, and John Reading, Boatswain's Mate, +with 12 lashes for not doing his Duty in punishing the above two Men. +Sent a Shore to the Vice-Roy for a Pilot to Carry us to Sea, who sent one +on board together with a Large Boat, which I did not want, but it is the +Custom in this Port for the Pilots to have such a Boat to attend upon the +Ship they Pilot out, and for which you must pay 10 shillings per day, +besides the Pilot's fees, which is Seven pounds four Shillings Sterling.</p> + +<p>[December 1768.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 1st December. Wind at South-East, which hinder'd us from +Sailing as we intended. Received on board a large Quantity of fresh Beef, +Greens and Yams for the Ship's Company.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd. This morning sent a Packet for the Secretary of the +Admiralty on board the Spanish Pacquet, containing copies of all the +Memorials and Letters that have passed between the Vice-Roy and me, and +likewise another Packet containing Duplicates thereof I left with the +Vice-Roy to be by him forwarded to Lisbon. At 9 Weighed and came to Sail +and turned down the Bay. Peter Flower, Seaman, fell overboard, and before +any Assistance could be given him was drowned; in his room we got a +Portugue.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3rd. First part, moderate breezes at South-East; remainder, +fresh Gales at South with Rain. At 1 p.m. Anchored in 18 fathoms Water in +the Great Road (see Plan).</p> + +<p>Sunday, 4th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales at South-South-East with +heavy rain; Latter, Variable Light Airs and fair weather. Hoisted in the +Long-boat and secured her.</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; Middle, Thunder, +Lightning and Rain; latter, little wind at South-West and fair. At 4 a.m. +Weighed and tow'd down the Bay (being Calm) with an intent to go to Sea, +but having 2 Shott fired at us from Santa Cruze Fort was obliged to come +to an Anchor and to send a Boat to the Fort to know the Reason of their +firing, who it seems had no orders to let us pass, without which no Ship +can go to Sea. This surprized me not a little, as I had but this very +morning received a very Polite Letter from the Vice-Roy (in answer to one +I had wrote some days ago), wherein he wishes me a good voyage. I +immediately dispatched a petty Officer to the Vice-Roy to know the reason +why we was not permitted to pass the Fort; the Boat very soon return'd +with an order to the Captain of the Fort to let us pass, which Order had +been wrote some Days Ago, but either by Design or neglect had not been +sent. At 11 weighed in order to put to Sea, but before we could heave up +the Anchor, it got hold of a Rock, where it held fast in spite of all our +endeavours to Clear it until the Sea Breeze set in.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. The Sea breeze continued all this day. At 2 p.m. the Ship +tended to the Wind, which cleared the Anchor. Hove it up and run higher +up the Bay and Anchored in 15 fathoms, a little below the Isle or Church +of Bon Voyage; found the cable very much rubbed several fathoms from the +Anchor.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th. First and latter part a Genteel breeze at South-East and +East; the Middle, Calm. At 5 a.m. weighed and tow'd out of the Bay; at 8 +Discharged the Pilot and his Boat. A breeze of Wind Springing up Easterly +made Sail out to Sea, and sent a boat to one of the Islands laying before +the Bay to cut Brooms, a thing we was not permitted to do while we lay in +the Harbour; the Guard Boat which had constantly attended all the time we +lay in the Bay and Harbour did not leave us until the Pilot was +discharged. At noon the Sugar Loaf at the west Entrance of the Bay bore +North by West 1/2 West, distance, 8 or 9 miles.</p> + +<p>[Description of Rio Janeiro.]</p> + +<p>A DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OR RIVER OF RIO DE JANEIRO.</p> + +<p>The few days' delay we met with in getting out of Rio de Janeiro gave me +an opportunity of Drawing a Plan or Sketch of great part of the Bay, but +the Strict watch that was kept over us during our whole stay hinder'd me +from taking so accurate a Survey as I wisht to have done, and all the +Observations I could make was taken from on board the Ship. This Plan +hath no pretensions to accuracy, yet it will give a very good idea of the +place, differing not much from the truth in what is Essential.</p> + +<p>The Bay of Rio de Janeiro, by some called a River--which its Name +Signifies--but this I think is improper, it being nothing more than a +Deep inlet of the Sea, into which no considerable fresh water River +Emptys itself that I could hear of. Be this as it will, it is Capacious +and Capable of Containing a vast Number of Shipping where they may ride +in perfect Security. The Entrance is Situated West by North 18 Leagues +from Cape Frio, and may be known by a remarkable Hill in the Form of a +Sugar Loaf, at the West Entrance of the Bay; but as all the Coast is +exceeding high, terminating at the top in Peaked Hills, it is much better +known by the Islands laying before it, one of which (called Rodonda) is +high and round in form of a Hay Stack, and lies South by West 2 1/2 +leagues from the Sugar Loaf or Entrance of the Bay. A little without the +East Entrance of the Bay, and near the shore, lay 2 Islands near each +other: 3 leagues from the Eastward and 4 miles from the Shore are 2 low +Rocky Islands, which are the first you meet with in coming from the +Eastward or from Cape Frio.</p> + +<p>To sail into Rio de Janeiro there is not the least Danger until you are +the length of the Fort of Santa Cruze, which stands on the point that +forms the East Entrance of the Bay or River; on the West Entrance is Fort +Lorio, built upon a Rock which lies close to the Main Land, the distance +from one Fort to the other is 3/4 of a mile East and West, but the +Channel for Shipping is not quite so broad by reason of Sunken Rocks +laying off each of the Forts; these rocks may not be properly placed in +the plan, being only laid down from the information of the Pilot. The +Narrowness of the Channell here causeth the Tides both Flood and Ebb to +run pretty strong, insomuch that you cannot Stem it without a fresh +breeze of Wind, nor is it safe Anchoring because the bottom is foul and +Rocky. By keeping in the Middle of the Channell you will not only avoid +being forced to come to an Anchor, but all other Dangers. Being got +within the entrance your Course up the Bay is North by West 1/2 West and +North-North-West something more than one League; this brings you the +length of the great Road, and North-West and West-North-West one league +more carrys you the length of the Ilha dos Cobras, which lies before the +City. Keep the North side of this Island close on board and Anchor above +it in 5 fathoms of water, where you see most Convenient before the +Monastery of Benedictines, which stands upon a hill at the North-West End +of the City. Small Ships and Vessels generally lay between the Town and +the Ilha dos Cobras, but in order to get there they must come round the +North side of the Island.</p> + +<p>I shall now give the best description I can of the Different Forts that +are Erected for the Defence of the Bay. The first you meet with coming in +from Sea is a Battery of 22 Guns, seated in the Bottom of a sandy Bay, +which is on the South side of the Sugar Loaf, and can be designed for no +other use than to hinder an Enemy from landing in that valley, from +whence I suppose they may March up to the Town or round by the West side +of the Sugar Loaf to attack the Forts that are on that side of the +Entrance into the Bay, the first of which is Seated under the foot of the +Sugar Loaf on a low Isthmus which joyns the Peninsula or point of the Bay +with the Land of the Sugar Loaf. It appears to be a square of Stone Work +without a Ditch, with Bastions and furnished with Cannon. A little within +this fort are 2 battrys of 5 or 6 Guns each. They are designed to play +upon Shipping, but neither these battrys or the Fort are out of reach of +a Ship's Cannon. Hard by these batterys stands Fort Logie. It is an +irregular hexagon, built of Stone upon a Small Rock standing at the west +Entrance of the Bay, and is surrounded on all Sides by the Sea. It is +mounted with 14 or 15 guns, which are placed so as to play upon Shipping +going in and out of the Harbour. There is only one way to go into it, +which is by Steps Leading up to a Sally Port on the North-West side. +Opposite this is the Fort of Santa Cruze, built upon a low rocky point +that forms the East Entrance of the Bay. It hath the Appearance of a +Regular Fortification of Stone Work built upon the Slope of the Rock, on +which account there are in some places 2 Tier of Guns. It hath no Ditch +but on the Land side, where it is cut out of the Rock; in every other +part the Sea washes up to its Walls. It seems everywhere to be well +Mounted with Cannon Except on the land side, where none are wanting, +because they could be of no use, the land being so very high above it. +Yet, after all, neither this Fort nor those on the opposite shore do not +appear to be of any great Strength, even against Shipping, for which they +are wholly design'd, being the key of the Bay. They lay low, and Ships +may come so near as to have them entirely within the reach of their Guns; +but it would require 5 or 6 Sail of the line to insure Success. Between 2 +and 3 Miles within the Entrance of the Bay, on the West Side, is the Isle +Borghleone, upon the east point of which is Erected a Battry of Stone, +and Mounted with 17 pieces of Cannon. Besides this, on the highest part +of the Island, is a Battry of 6 Guns mounted on an Open Platform. These +battrys are designed to play upon Shipping in the Bay, and seems not ill +designed for that purpose; yet they would be Obliged to Submit to the +Attack of Shipping or that of a Land force, there being nothing to hinder +the latter from Landing on the Island behind the Battrys. Opposite to +this Island, on the low point on the east side of the Bay, is the Battry +of St. Dominica of 7 Guns. A little without this Battry, on the East side +of the Bay, is a small but high Island, close to the Shore, on the Top of +which is the Church of Bonn Voyage, about half-way down the Cliff. Below +the Church is a Battry of 3 Guns. Neither the one nor the other of these +battry's are of much Consequence. They serve, indeed, to force Shipping +coming into the Bay between 2 Fires, and hinder them from Anchoring on +that side until they are silenced. The next fortification is that on the +Ilha dos Cobras, the east point and North side of which consists of a +Rampart Bastion and a Parrapet faced with Stones and mounted with Cannon, +but no Ditch, which is not much wanting, as the works are built on the +Edge of the rising Ground. The other side next the Town hath no other +inclosure but a plain wall without any Guns. It is said that the works on +this Island are in bad repair, on account of being so Extensive that they +would take more men to Defend them than they could spare, and, placing no +Dependancy on their Strength, let them go to decay. The ground on which +the Monastry of Benedictines Stands Commands the Works on the Island. +Over the South end of the City stands the Castle of St. Sebastian; it is +Seated upon a Hill, and Commands the whole Town; and this is all I know +of it, only that it is not counted a place of any great Strength. For the +Defence of these Forts and the Town the King of Portugal Maintains 7 +Regiments of Regular Troops. Those I saw were well cloathed and in good +Condition; but this, as I was told, was not the Case with the whole. +Besides these Troops are 3 Regiments of Militia, 2 of Horse and one of +foot. These consist of the principal inhabitants of the place, who serve +without pay, Muster and Exercise in turns nine Months in the year, on +which account they rank with the Regular Troops.</p> + +<p>The City of Rio de Janeiro is in the Latitude of 22 degrees 50 minutes +South and Longitude 42 degrees 15 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Modern +determination, 22 degrees 54 minutes South, 43 degrees 10 minutes West.) +According to Observations made at Sea it is Seated on a plain close to +the Shore on the West side of the Bay, at the foot of Several high +Mountains. It is neither ill designed nor ill built. The Houses are +mostly stone, generally one and two Storys high, with Balconys to most of +them. The Streets are of a Convenient breadth, and Cross each other at +right Angles, and the whole City may be about 3 miles in Compass. It is +Govern'd by a Governor appointed by the King. The present Governor is Don +Anto Mendoyaz Fastada, who is no Friend to the English. It likewise is +the Residence of the Vice-Roy and Captain General of the States of +Brazil, who is as absolute as any Monarch on Earth, and the people to all +appearance as much Slaves. This City and Adjacent parts about the Bay are +said to contain 100,000 Souls; but not above a twentieth part are Whites. +The rest are blacks, many of whom are free, and seem to live in tolerable +Circumstances.</p> + +<p>The city of Rio de Janeiro is supplied with Water from 2 Different parts +of the Adjacent Mountains. That which comes from the Southward is +Convey'd a Cross a Deep Valley by an Acquiduct, which Consists of a great +Number of Arches placed in 2 Rows, one upon the other; from thence in +pipes to a fountain which stands in the Middle of the Square before the +Vice-Roy's Palace. At another part of the City is a Reservoir, to which +the water is conveyed much in the same manner. From these 2 places, but +mostly from the former, the inhabitants fetch all they want, where there +is always a Centinel to keep order: and it is likewise here that the +Ships Water. They land their Casks upon a Smooth sandy beach about 100 +yards from the Fountain, and upon application to the Vice-Roy you have a +Centinel to look after them and to clear the way for to come to the +fountain to fill water. Upon the whole, Rio de Janeiro is not a bad place +for Ships to put in at that want refreshments, not only because the +Harbour is safe and Commodious, but that Provision and all manner of +Refreshments may be had in tolerable plenty. Bread and Flour are, +however, Scarce and Dear, being brought hither from Europe, and are never +the better for that Passage. In lieu of these are to be had Yams and +Casada. All sorts of Grain--though it may be the produce of this +Country--is Dear. Fresh Beef (tho' bad) is to be had in plenty at about 2 +1/4 pence per pound, and Jurked Beef about the same price. This is cured +with Salt, and dryd in the shade, the bones being taken out, and the Meat +cut into large but very thin slices. It eats very well, and if kept in a +dry place will remain good a long time at Sea. Rum, Sugar, and Molasses +are all good and Cheap. Tobacco is Cheap, but not good. Mutton they have +very little. Hogs and all sorts of Poultry are to be got, tho' in no +great plenty, and of Course rather dear. Garden Stuff and Fruit in +plenty, but none that will keep long at Sea except Pumpkins.</p> + +<p>They have a Yard for building Shipping and a small Hulk for heaving down +by, there being no other method to come at a Ship's bottom, as the Tides +doth not rise above 6 or 7 feet. At the New and full Moon it is high +Water at that time about 8 o'clock, when the Land and Sea breezes are +regular, but when they are not the Course of Tides are alter'd. The Sea +breeze begins to blow about 10 or 12 o'clock, and continues until sunset, +when it dies away and is succeeded by the land breeze, which continues +most part of the night. From a little after sunrise until the Sea breeze +sets in it is generally Calm, and is then the Hotest and most +Disagreeable part of the whole day.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch2"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER 2. RIO JANEIRO TO TAHITI.</h2> + +<h3>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TOWARDS TERRA DEL FUEGO.</h3> + +<p>[December 1768. Rio to Strait Le Maire.]</p> + +<p>THURSDAY, December 8th. Fore and Middle parts Moderate breezes and +Cloudy; remainder, little wind and Clear weather. At 3 p.m. the Boat +returned from the Island; hoisted her in and made Sail at 6. The Sugar +Loaf at the west Entrance of Rio de Janeiro bore North 1/2 East, distance +7 leagues; it lies from the City of Rio de Janeiro, from which I take my +Departure, South-West 4 miles. Wind East-North-East, North-East, North by +East; course South 7 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 85 miles; latitude +24 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 42 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 9th. Genteel light breezes and Clear weather. At 3 a.m. the Fore +top-gallant Mast broke short by the Cap; the Carpenter employed making +another. Wind North, North-East, South-South-West; course South 22 +degrees East; distance 32 miles; latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes South, +longitude 42 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. Moderate breezes with some flying showers of Rain the +first part. Wind southerly; course, South-East 1/2 East; distance 75 +miles; latitude 25 degrees 34 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 12 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. Little wind and Clear weather the Most part of this day. +Serv'd Slops* (* Slops are materials for making clothes.) to the People. +Wind southerly; course South 20 degrees East; distance 9 miles; latitude +25 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 8 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. First part, light Airs; remainder, Genteel breezes and +Clear weather. Found the variation of the Compass by the Evening +Amplitude and an Azimuth in the Morning to be 8 degrees 30 minutes East, +and the Observed Latitude at Noon to be short of that given by the Log 10 +Miles. Exercised the People at Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind variable; +course South-South-West; distance 34 miles; latitude 26 degrees 14 +minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 23 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. First part Gentle breezes and Clear, remainder a Steady +Gale. The weather a little hazey. Variation 8 degrees 23 minutes East. +Wind North-East and North-North-East; course South 19 degrees 40 minutes +West; distance 113 miles; latitude 28 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude +42 degrees 6 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 14th. First and latter parts, fresh breezes and Cloudy; +middle, little wind, with Thunder, Lightning and Rain. The Caulkers +employed Caulking the Ship's Decks. Wind, North-West, West, South by +West; course South 16 degrees East; distance 87 miles; latitude 29 +degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 41 degrees 55 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. The first part a fresh Gale and dark Cloudy weather; +Remainder, little wind and clear; a large swell from South-West. Wind +South-West by South, South, East-South-East; course South 14 degrees 15 +minutes East; distance 45 miles; latitude 30 degrees 8 minutes South, +longitude 41 degrees 39 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th. Genteel breezes and Clear weather. Variation 9 degrees 36 +minutes East. Wind East-North-East, North-West, North-East; course South +32 degrees West: distance 86 miles; latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes South, +longitude 42 degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 17th. Hazey with frequent Showers of Rain all the Fore and +Middle part; latter, Clear weather with a Gentle breeze of wind. Wind, +variable from North-West, South-West, to South-South-East; course South +14 degrees West; distance 56 miles; latitude 32 degrees 15 minutes South, +longitude 42 degrees 48 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 18th. First part, light winds; remainder, fresh breezes and Clear +weather. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. Wind, South-East to +North-East; course South 51 West; distance 43 miles; latitude 32 degrees +42 minutes South, longitude 43 degrees 27 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 19th. A steady fresh breeze and fair weather. At half-past 5 p.m. +Longitude in per Observation of the sun and moon 43 degrees 38 minutes +West from Greenwich. Variation 11 degrees 3 minutes East. The Observed +Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 7 Miles. Wind northerly; course +South-West; distance 116 miles; latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes South, +longitude 45 degrees 6 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 20th. A fresh breeze of Wind and hazey. Variation 13 degrees 44 +minutes East. Observed Latitude exceeds that given by the Log 11 miles. +Wind north; course South-West 1/4 South; distance 160 miles; latitude 36 +degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 47 degrees 14 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 21st. Wind and weather Variable. Saw several black sheer +Waters. Sounded twice this 24 Hours but found no ground with 90 fathoms. +The Observed Latitude again ahead of the Log 16 miles. Wind variable; +course South 42 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 90 miles; latitude 37 +degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 48 degrees 30 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22nd. Little wind the most part of this day. Variation 15 +degrees 30 minutes East. Bent a New Suit of Sails. Wind southerly; course +West; distance 40 miles; latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude +49 degrees 1 minute West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 23rd. Light Airs and Clear weather. Saw some Turtle upon the +Water but could not catch any. Sounded no ground with 200 fathoms. +Variation 15 degrees 40 minutes East. Wind southerly; course North 48 +degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 36 degrees 46 minutes South, +longitude 49 degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 24th. First part Calm; remainder a Genteel breeze and fine +Clear weather. This night had 2 Sets of Observations of the Moon and the +Star Aldebaran, which gave the Longitude +49 degrees 54 minutes 15 seconds West; the first sett gave 49 degrees 55 +minutes 15 seconds, and the Second 49 degrees 53 minutes 15 seconds. Wind +calm, north-easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 39 miles; +latitude 37 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 50 degrees 32 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 25th. Fresh breezes and fine Clear weather. Wind North-East by +North to North; course South 50 degrees West; distance 116 miles; +latitude 38 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude 52 degrees 5 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. A Fresh breeze of Wind and Cloudy weather; passed by some +Rock Weed. At noon the Observed latitude 26 Miles to the Southward of the +Log, which I believe is chiefly owing to her being Generally steer'd to +the Southward of her Course. Yesterday being Christmas Day the people +were none of the Soberest. Wind North; course South-West; distance 158 +miles; latitude 40 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 54 degrees 30 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breezes and Hazey with Squalls which Obliged us +during the Night to take in the small Sails and 2 reefs in the Topsails +which were let out in the Morning. Wind northerly; course South 50 +degrees West; distance 123 miles; latitude 41 degrees 38 minutes South, +longitude 56 degrees 15 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 28th. First part Strong Gales and Cloudy, which Obliged us to +get down Top-Gallant Yards. At 8 p.m. it blew a Storm of Wind with Rain +which brought us under our Mainsail with her Head to the Westward. +Sounded 50 fathoms, fine brown Sand; at midnight had 40 fathoms, the same +bottom. At 4 a.m. had 46 fathoms Coral Rock. The weather being more +Moderate, made Sail under the Courses and Set the Topsails with 2 Reefs +in. Wind South-East to South; latitude 40 degrees 49 minutes South, +longitude 58 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 29th. First part moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder fresh +breezes and Clear. P.M. loosed all the Reefs out, and got Topgallant +Yards a Cross. Variation per Azimuth 16 degrees 12 minutes, per Amplitude +16 degrees 32 minutes; Mean of the Two 16 degrees 22 minutes East. +Between 9 and 10 a.m. took 7 sets of Observations between the sun and +moon to find the Longitude of the Ship. Each set Consists of three +Observations; the Mean of the whole gave 59 degrees 18 minutes 34 seconds +West of Greenwich. The result of each set was as follows: viz., 1st set, +59 degrees 8 minutes; Second, 59 degrees 21 minutes; Third, 59 degrees 34 +minutes; Fourth, 59 degrees 17 minutes; Fifth, 59 degrees 11 minutes 45 +seconds; Sixth, 59 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds; and the Seventh, 59 +degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds. The greatest differance between any +two--viz., the first and third--is but 26 minutes, and the mean of these +two differ from the mean of the whole only 2 minutes 26 seconds. This +shews to what degree of accuracy these observations can be made even by +Different Persons, for four of these were made and computed by Mr. Green +and the rest by myself. The Longitude given by the Ship, reckoning from +the last Observation 5 Days ago, differs only 8 Miles from the +Observation, which shews that we have not been in any Currents. Soundings +from 40 to 47. Wind North-Easterly; course South 46 degrees 30 minutes +West; distance 81 miles; latitude 41 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude +59 degrees 37 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 30th. Little wind, and sometimes Calm; the first part Clear +weather, remainder Foggy and Hazey. Soundings from 44 to 49 fathoms; Grey +sandy Bottom. Caught both this Morning and last Night a great Number of +insects. Some were upon the Wing, but the greater part were upon the +water, and many of these alive and of such sort as cannot fly far; and +yet at this Time we could not be less than 30 Leagues from Land. Wind +variable; course South 30 degrees West; distance 54 miles; latitude 42 +degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 60 degrees 15 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 31st. Cloudy weather, with some Lightning and a few showers of +rain. Variation 18 degrees 36 minutes East. Soundings from 46 to 50 +fathoms; fine dark sand. Wind South-Easterly; course South 18 degrees +West; distance 43 miles; latitude 43 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude +60 degrees 26 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[January 1769.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, January 1st, 1769. First and Latter part, fresh breezes and Clear +weather; in the Middle, light Airs and Calm. At Noon, longitude in per 4 +Sets of Observations between the sun and moon 61 degrees 8 minutes 28 +seconds west. The Difference between the least and Greatest of these sets +was 8 minutes, and the mean of 2 differs from the Mean of the whole but +32 seconds. The Longitude by account carried on from the last +Observations exactly agree with these Observations. Saw a great number of +small Whales about the Ship. Wind South to West-South-West; course South +36 degrees West; distance 39 miles; latitude 43 degrees 35 minutes South; +longitude 61 degrees 8 minutes 28 seconds West.</p> + +<p>Monday, January 2nd. The first part of this day a Genteel gale and Clear +weather; middle, Squally, with Lightning and rain, and some showers of +Large Hail Stones; towards Noon a Steady fresh breeze and Clear weather. +At noon longitude in by 3 sets of Observations between the sun and moon +61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds, which is 43 seconds to the Eastward of +yesterday's Observations. The Ship by the Log has made 4 minutes East. +Wind Westerly; course South 2 degrees East; distance 92 miles; latitude +45 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds +West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 3rd. Fresh gales and clear weather; under Single Reef Topsails. +P.M. Saw some Whales and Porpoises and small red Crawfish, some of which +we Caught. At Noon saw several Birds of a light Grey Colour, like +Pidgeons, but smaller; these are of the Mother Carey's kind. Longitude +per Observation 61 degrees 29 minutes 45 seconds, which is 22 minutes to +the westward of Yesterday, but the ship hath made 41 minutes, +Consequently there is an Error of 19 minutes, which is not to be supposed +to be in the Log in one Day's run; but, be it which way it will, it is +not great. Wind West, Southerly; course South 11 degrees; distance 122 +miles; latitude 47 degrees 17 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 29 +minutes 45 seconds West.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-05"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-05.jpg"></p> +<h4>MODERN CHART OF SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN SHOWING TRACK OF H.M.S. ENDEAVOUR, 1769 TO 1770.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Wednesday, 4th. First part, genteel breeze and Clear; latter, fresh +gales, with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which brought us under our +courses and main topsails close reefed. Soon after noon saw the +appearance of Land to the Eastward, and being in the Latitude of Peypes +Island, as it is lay'd down in some Charts, imagined it might be it.* (* +Pepys' Island, placed on charts, from a report by Captain Cowley in 1683, +about 230 miles north of Falkland Islands, and long imagined to exist. It +was eventually recognised, after the discovery of Cowley's manuscript +Journal, that Cowley had sighted the Falklands.) Bore down to be Certain, +and at 1/2 past 2 p.m. discovered our Mistake, and hauld the Wind again. +At 6 sounded, and had 72 fathoms black sand and mud. Variation 19 degrees +45 minutes East. Wind West-North-West to South-West by South; course +South 30 degrees East; distance 76 miles; latitude 48 degrees 28 minutes +South, longitude 60 degrees 51 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Nearing Terra del Fuego.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 5th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Clear; Middle, light Airs; +remainder, fresh Gales and a little hazey. P.M. found the Variation to be +20 degrees 4 minutes East; Soundings 75 and 73 fathoms. A great Number of +Water Fowl about the Ship. Wind South-West, North-East, North-North-East; +course South 28 degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 49 degrees 49 +minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 67 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 6th. Fresh gales, the Air very Sharp and Cold; frequent showers +of rain and Squalls. Soundings 75 fathoms. Saw some Penguins. Gave to +each of the People a Fearnought Jacket and a pair of Trowsers, after +which I never heard one Man Complain of Cold, not but that the weather +was cold enough. Wind West, Southerly; course South 8 degrees 45 minutes +West; distance 92 miles; latitude 51 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude +62 degrees 19 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 7th. First part, Strong Gales, with excessive hard Squals, with +rain. At 9 p.m. wore and brought too, her head to the Westward under the +Mainsail, and Reef'd the Foresail for the first time. The Storm continued +with a little intermission until a little towards Noon, when it abated, +so we could set the Topsails close Reefed. Saw many Penguins and some +Seals. Wind southerly: course South 62 degrees East; distance 14 miles; +latitude 51 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 61 degrees 59 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 8th. Wind and weather both Variable, but for the most part little +wind. P.M. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and 2 Reefs out of Each +Topsail. A.M. got Top gallant Yards aCross and loosed all the Reefs out. +Soundings from 80 to 75 fathoms. Wind South, South-West, West, +North-West; course North 72 degrees West; distance 33 miles; latitude 51 +degrees 16 minutes South; longitude 62 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 9th. First and Latter parts, a moderate breeze and Clear weather; +Middle, squally with rain. P.M. found the Variation by several azimuths +to be 22 degrees 24 minutes East. Saw a great Number of Penguins and +Seals.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine clear weather. At 2 p.m. Sounded +86 fathoms; black sand and Small stones. Variation 21 degrees 57 minutes +East. At 1/2 past 10 Tackt having Stood south 12 Leagues. After standing +to the Westward 14 Miles, sounded, and had 80 fathoms black grey sand; 3 +Leagues farther 76, coarse black sand; Tack'd, and at noon had 70 fathoms +black gravel and Small Stones of different Colours. Saw several flights +of black Sheerwaters. Wind West-South-West, South-West; course South 18 +degrees West; distance 38 miles; latitude 52 degrees 54 minutes South, +longitude 63 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 11th. A Steady Genteel breeze and clear weather. P.M. after +standing 13 Leagues South-South-West Sounded 64 fathoms Gravel and small +Stones; Standing South-West by South 11 leagues farther, had 46 fathoms, +the same sort of bottom. At 8 a.m. saw the land of Terra del Fuego, +extending from the west to the South-East by South, distance off shore +between 3 and 4 Leagues; sounded and had 35 fathoms small, soft, Slate +Stones. Variation 23 degrees 30 minutes East. In ranging along shore to +the South-East at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues, had 27 and 26 fathoms +muddy bottom. Saw some of the natives, who made a Smook in several +places, which must have been done as a Signal to us as they did not +continue it after we passed. By our Longitude we ought not to have been +so far to the Westward as Statenland, as it is laid down in the Charts; +but it appeared from Subsequent Observations that the Ship had got near a +Degree of Longitude to the Westward of the Log, which is 35 Miles in +these Latitudes. Probably this in part may be owing to a Small Current +setting to the Westward, occasioned by the Westerly Current which comes +round Cape Horn and through Strait La Maire, and the inDraught of the +Streights of Magellan. Wind westerly; course South 30 degrees West; +distance, 100 miles; latitude 54 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 64 +degrees 35 minutes West per log.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 12th. First part, moderate breezes and Cloudy; remainder +sometimes a fresh breeze, sometimes Calm, Hazey weather with rain. At 5 +the wind coming to the Northward obliged us to Tack and Stood +North-Westward, being then about 5 Miles from the Shore, and had 23 +fathoms, sandy Bottom. At Midnight Tackt and Stood to the Eastward. At +Noon the Land over the Entrance of Straits La Maire, East-North-East, +distance, 7 leagues; Soundings from 28 to 38 fathoms. Wind North, +North-North-East, variable, West-South-West; latitude 54 degrees 34 +minutes South per observation.</p> + +<p>Friday, 13th. The greatest part of this day little wind and Cloudy. At 8 +p.m., Cape St. Diego, at the west entrance of Straits La Maire, East, +distance about 5 leagues. Keept under an easey Sail until daylight, at +which time we were abreast of Cape St. Diego, and then put into the +Straits, but the Tide soon turned against us and obliged us to haul under +the Cape again and wait until 9 a.m. when it shifted in our favour. Put +into the Straits again with a Moderate breeze at South-West, which soon +grew Boisterous with very heavy Squalls, with rain and hail, and obliged +us to Close reef our Topsails. Wind North-East by East, West-South-West, +South-West; latitude 54 degrees 39 minutes South; at noon, Cape St. Diego +North 2 leagues.</p> + +<p>[In Strait of Le Maire.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 14th. First part Strong Gales, and very heavy squalls with Hail +and Rain; remainder more moderate but unsettled, sometimes a fresh breeze +and Squally, and sometimes little wind. Kept plying in the Straits until +1/2 past 4 p.m., at which time the Tide had made strong against us, and +the wind not abating, bore away, intending to have hauled under Cape St. +Diego, but was prevented by the force of the Tide, which carried us past +that Cape with surprising rapidity, at the same time caused a very great +sea. At 6, the weather being Clear, took 9, or 3 sets of, Observations of +the sun and moon in order to find the Longitude of the place, and as they +perhaps are the first Observations of this kind that were ever made so +near to the Extremity of South America, I have inserted them below just +as they were taken, that everybody may judge for themselves.</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: NAME OF SET. +COLUMN 2: TIME BY THE WATCH IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS. +COLUMN 3: APPARENT TIME COMPUTED FROM IN HOURS, MINUTES AND SECONDS. +COLUMN 4: OBSERVED DISTANCE. SUN AND MOON'S NEAREST LIMB IN DEGREES, +MINUTES AND SECONDS. +COLUMN 5: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. SUN'S LOWER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND +SECONDS. +COLUMN 6: OBSERVED ALTITUDE. MOON'S UPPER LIMB IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND +SECONDS. +COLUMN 7: CORRECT ALTITUDE. SUN'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS. +COLUMN 8: CORRECT ALTITUDE. MOON'S CENTER IN DEGREES, MINUTES AND +SECONDS. +COLUMN 9: THE LONGITUDE RESULTING FROM BOTH SETS OF OBSERVATIONS IN +DEGREES, MINUTES AND SECONDS.</p> + +<p>-- : 8 27 15 : -- : 71 26 0 : 15 36 0 : 24 13 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 30 30 : -- : 71 28 0 : 15 11 0 : 24 8 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 32 15 : -- : 71 29 0 : 14 56 0 : 23 57 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------ +-- : 25 30 00 : -- : - 83 0 : 45 43 0 : 72 18 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------ +1st set : 8 30 0 : 6 12 53 : 71 27 40 : 15 14 20 : 24 6 0 : 15 22 39 : 23 +43 0 : 66 7 45. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +----------------</p> + +<p>-- : 8 33 50 : -- : 71 30 0 : 14 43 0 : 23 38 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 35 39 : -- : - 31 0 : 14 25 0 : 23 42 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 37 46 : -- : - 30 30 : 14 10 0 : 23 32 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------- +-- : 8 107 15 : -- : - 91 30 : 43 18 0 : 23 112 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------- +2nd set : 8 35 45 : 6 18 41 : 71 30 30 : 14 26 0 : 23 37 20 : 14 34 00 : +23 14 0 : 66 19 45. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +-------------------</p> + +<p>-- : 8 39 10 : -- : 71 31 30 : 13 56 0 : 23 26 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 41 20 : -- : - 32 00 : 13 40 0 : 23 20 0 : -- : -- : --. +-- : 8 43 49 : -- : - 33 00 : 13 18 0 : 23 6 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------- +-- : 8 124 19 : -- : - 96 30 : - 114 0 : - 52 0 : -- : -- : --. +------------------------------------------------- +3rd set : 8 41 26 : 6 24 26 : 71 32 10 : 13 38 0 : 23 17 20 : 13 46 0 : +22 55 0 : 66 0 45. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +-------------------</p> + +<p>N.B. The mean of the three sets is 66 degrees 9 minutes 25 seconds, and +the mean of Mr. Green's Computations from the same Observations was 66 +degrees 14 minutes 0 seconds, and the mean of his computations and mine +will be 66 degrees 11 minutes 32 seconds, and therefore the Longitude of +Cape St. Diego or the North-West entrance of Strait Le Maire will be 66 +degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds West from Greenwich, and its Latitude 54 +degrees 39 minutes South.* (* Modern determination is 54 degrees 40 +minutes South, 65 degrees 8 minutes West.)</p> + +<p>Note: The distance of the sun and moon was taken by Mr. Green alone, my +Quadrant being out of Order.</p> + +<p>Cape St. Diego bore at this time South by East about 4 Leagues Distant. +At 1/2 past 7 Tackt and Stood to the South-East, Cape St. Diego bearing +South by East, distance 5 Leagues. At 1 a.m., Squally, wore Ship, Staten +Land extending from North to East. At 4, Moderate Weather, loosed a Reef +out of each Topsail, the Cape of Good Success West by South, and Cape St. +Diego North-North-West, being now in the Strait, but the Tide turning +against us soon carried us out. The Violence of the Tide of Ebb rose such +a Sea off Cape St. Diego, that it looked as if it was breaking Violently +on the ledge of Rocks, and would be taken for such by any who know'd not +the true cause. When the Ship was in this Torrent she frequently Pitched +her Bowsprit in the Water. By Noon we got under the Land between Cape St. +Diego and Cape St. Vincent, where I thought to have Anchored, but found +the Bottom every where hard and Rocky; the Depth of Water from 30 to 12 +fathoms. Sent the Master to Examine a small Cove which appeared to our +View a little to the Eastward of Cape St. Vincent. Wind South-South-West +and South-West by South.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 15th. Moderate breezes at South and South-East, and cloudy +weather, the greater part of this day. At 2 p.m. the Master return'd with +an account that there was Anchorage in 4 fathoms Water and a good bottom +close to the Eastward of the first black bluff point which is on the East +side of Cape St. Vincent, at the very Entrance of the Cove we saw from +the Ship (which I named Vincent Bay). Before this Anchoring ground lay +several Rocky Ledges covered with Sea Weed: on these Ledges I was +informed was not less than 8 or 9 fathoms, but in standing in with the +Ship the first we came upon had only 4 fathoms upon it. I therefore +thought that Anchoring here would be attended with some Risk, and that it +would be better to Endeavour to find some Port in the Strait, and there +Compleat our Wood and Water. However, I sent an Officer with a Boat on +shore to attend to Mr. Banks and people who was very desirous of being on +shore at any rate, while I keept plying as near the shore as possible +with the Ship. At 9 they return'd on board bringing with them several +Plants, Flowers, etc., most of them unknown in Europe, and in that Alone +consisted their whole Value; they saw none of the Natives, but meet with +several of their old Hutts. Hoisted the Boat in and made Sail into the +Straits and at 3 a.m. Anchord in 12 1/2 fathoms Water (the bottom Coral +rocks) before a small Cove which we took for Port Maurice, and near 1/2 a +Mile from the shore Cape St. Diego South-South-West, and Cape St. +Bartholomew (which is the south point of Staten Land) East-South-East.</p> + +<p>Port Maurice appeared to afford so little Shelter for Shipping that I did +not think it worth while to hoist a Boat out to Examine it; we saw here 2 +of the Natives come down to the Shore, who stay'd sometime, then retir'd +into the Woods againe. At 10 o'Clock got under Sail, Wind at South-East, +and plyed to Windward.</p> + +<p>[In Success Bay.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 16th. A Fresh breeze of Wind at South and South-West, with +frequent showers of Rain and Snow. At 2 p.m. Anchored in the Bay of +Success in 9 fathoms, the bottom Owse and sand.* (* The Endeavour was +three days and a half in getting through the Strait of Le Maire, as far +as Success Bay. It is a difficult passage for a sailing vessel even in +the present day, as the tides are strong and winds generally contrary, +but experience has enabled good directions to be given as to the best way +to pass the Strait. Cook himself gives capital advice farther on.) The +south point of the Bay bore South-East and the north point +East-North-East. This Bay I shall describe when I come to speake of the +rest of the Coast. Hoisted out the Boats and moor'd with the Stream +Anchor. While this was doing I went ashore accompanyed by Mr. Banks and +Dr. Solander to look for a Watering place and to speak with the Natives, +who were assembled on the Beach at the Head of the Bay to the Number of +30 or 40. They were so far from being afraid or surprised at our coming +amongst them that three of them came on board without the least +hesitation. They are something above the Middle size, of a Dark Copper +Colour with long black hair; they paint their Bodies in Streakes, mostly +Red and Black. Their Cloathing consists wholy in a Guanacoe Skin or that +of a Seal, in the same form as it came from the Animal's back.</p> + +<p>The Women Wear a Piece of Skin over their Privy Parts, but the Men +observe no such decency. Their Hutts are made like a behive, and open on +one side where they have their fires; they are made of small Sticks and +covered with branches of trees, long Grass, etc., in such a manner that +they are neither Proof against Wind, Hail, rain or Snow, a sufficient +proof that these People must be a very hardy race. They live chiefly on +shell fish, such as Muscels, which they gather from off the Rocks along +the Sea Shore, and this seems to be the Work of the Women. Their Arms are +Bows and Arrows neatly made; their Arrows are bearded, some with glass +and others with fine flint; several Pieces of the former we saw amongst +them with other European things, such as rings, Buttons, Cloth, Canvas, +etc., which I think proves that they must sometimes travel to the +Northward, as we know of no Ship that hath been in these parts for many +Years; besides, they were not at all surprised at our Fire Arms; on the +Contrary, they seemed to know the use of them, by making signs to us to +fire at Seals or Birds that might come in the way. They have no Boats +that we saw or anything to go upon the Water with; their number doth not +Exceed 50 or 60 young and old, and there are fewer Women than Men. They +are Extreamly fond of any Red thing, and seemed to set more Value on +Beads than anything we could give them; in this Consists their whole +Pride, few, either Men or Women, are without a Necklace or String of +Beads made of Small Shells or bones about their Necks. They would not +taste any strong Liquor, neither did they seem fond of our Provisions. We +could not discover that they had any Head or Chief or Form of Government, +neither have they any useful or necessary Utensil except it be a Bag or +Basket to gather their Muscels into. In a word they are perhaps as +Miserable a sett of People as are this day upon Earth.* (* Cook's +description of the natives of Tierra del Fuego is good to the present +day, except that those who live farther westward are still more wretched. +Those of the main island, in which the Bay of Good Success lies, are able +to kill guanaco, and enjoy a better climate. They, as Cook observed, +never go on the water, whereas those westward practically live in +canoes.) Having found a convenient place on the south side of the Bay to +Wood and Water at, we set about that Work in the Morning, and Mr. Banks +with a Party went into the Country to gather Plants, etc.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 17th. Fresh Gales at South-South-West and West-South-West with +rain and Snow, and, of Course, very cold weather; notwithstanding we kept +geting on board Wood and Water, and finished the Survey of the Bay. Mr. +Banks and his Party not returning this Evening as I expected, gave me +great uneasiness, as they were not prepared for Staying out the Night. +However, about Noon they returned in no very Comfortable Condition, and +what was still worse 2 blacks, servants to Mr. Banks, had perished in the +Night with Cold. Great part of the day they landed was spent before they +got through the Woods, after which they advanced so far into the Country +that they were so far from being able to return that night, and with much +difficulty they got to a place of Tolerable Shelter where they could make +a fire: these 2 men being Intrusted with great part of the Liquor (that +was for the whole party) had made too free with it, and Stupified +themselves to that degree that they either could or would not Travel, but +laid themselves down in a place where there was not the least thing to +Shelter them from the inclemency of the night. This was about 1/4 of a +Mile from where the rest took up their Quarters, and notwithstanding +their repeated Endeavours, they could not get them to move one Step +farther, and the bad travelling made it impossible for any one to Carry +them, so that they were Obliged to leave them, and the next morning they +were both found dead.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 18th. All the Middle and Latter parts of this day it blow'd +very strong from the South-South-West and South-West, attended with Snow, +Hail and Rain, and brought such a Sea into the Bay, which rose the Surf +to such a Height that no Boat could land. The same Stormy weather and +Surf continued all</p> + +<p>Thursday, 19th. All this time the Ship road very easy with her Broad side +to the swell. The great Surf that always will be upon the Shore when the +wind blows hard from the Southward makes Wooding and Watering tedious, +notwithstanding there are great plenty of both close to high water Mark.</p> + +<p>Friday, 20th. Moderate gales and Cloudy with frequent Showers of rain all +this day. This Evening the Surf abated, and at 2 a.m. sent the People on +shore to Wood and Water and cut Brooms, all of which we Completed this +day. In this Service we lost our small Kedge Anchor, it having been laid +off the Watering Place to ride the Long-boat by, and the Gale had broke +away the Hawser and Buoy rope, and perhaps buried the Anchor in the Sand, +for notwithstanding our utmost Endeavours we were not able to Hook it. +Took up the Stream Anchor and made ready for Sailing.</p> + +<p>[Sailed from Success Bay.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 21st. Wind from South-South-West to South-West; moderate +breezes the first part; latter, fresh Gales with Showers of Rain. P.M. +hoisted in the Boats, and made ready for Sailing; at 2 a.m. weighed and +made Sail out of the Bay. At 1/2 past 4 the Cape of good Success bore +West, and Cape Bartholomew East. Variation per Azimuth, 24 degrees 9 +minutes East; at Noon the Cape of good Success bore North 36 degrees +West; distance, 11 leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 22nd. Wind between the South and the West first and Latter part, +fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; the Middle, little wind and rain. +A.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 20 degrees 4 minutes +East. Unbent the Cables and Stowed the Anchors. At Noon, Latitude +observed 56 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude, made from the Cape of +Good Success, 42 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Monday, 23rd. Winds variable from South-East round by the South-West to +North-West. First part, a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder +moderate breezes and sometimes Calm and clear weather, which is more than +we have had for several days past. At 4 a.m. saw the Land in the +South-West Quarter, and a small Island bearing West; from this Time until +9 it was Calm, at which time the Ship drove very fast to the North-East +by North. At 9 Sprung up a light breeze at North, loos'd all the Reefs +out, and set the Steering sails. The Cape of good Success bore North-East +by North; Staten land seen from the Deck bearing North-East; the Sugar +Loaf on Terra Del Fuego North-North-East, and is the same Hill as is seen +from the North-East side of the Land; it appears to stand but a little +way in Land from the Shore; and the Mainland and Islands on the Coast +extending from the Cape of good Success to the South by West. The Country +Mountainous, of an indifferent height; the Tops were covered with Snow, +which had lately fell, as it did not lay long. There appeared to be +several Bays and inlets and Islands laying along the Coast; the 3rd view +in the Chart exhibits the appearance of this Coast where g is new Island, +c the Sugar Loaf, and h the Cape of good Success. At noon the West End of +New Island bore North-West by West, 5 leagues. Latitude observed 55 +degrees 25 minutes South, this Island I named New Island because it is +not laid down in any Chart.* (* This island is still so called in the +charts.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 24th. The fore and Middle parts of these 24 Hours Moderate Gales +and Cloudy with some Showers of Rain; the Latter, fresh gales with flying +Showers. At 7 p.m. New Island bore North-West by North, and a small +Island laying to the Westward of it bore West by North. Variation per +Several Azimuths 21 degrees 0 minutes East, which is much less than we +have yet found it upon this Coast; yet I am satisfied with the Goodness +of the Observations. At 1/2 past 1 a.m. the Wind Shifted from +South-South-West to East-South-East. Tackt and stood South-West; at 6 Saw +the Land to the Westward making like several Islands. At 8 two Small +Islands laying off a low Point of Land bore West by South, distant 3 +Leagues, and the small Island we saw last night bore North-North-West. +This I take to be the Island of Evouts, it is about one League in +Circuit, and of a Moderate height and lies 4 Leagues from the Main. Near +the South Point of it are some Peaked rocks pretty high above Water; the +wind coming to the Southward we did but just weather this Island; in +passing it, sounded and had 40 fathoms Water, sand, and broken Shells. At +Noon it bore North-East distance one League, and the low point of land +before mentioned South 17 degrees West distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Tackt and +Stood to the South-East, wind at South-South-West. From this low Point +the land trends to the North-West, about 4 Leagues, where it ends in a +low point round which to the Westward appears to be a Deep Bay, unless +this land should prove to be an Island or Islands, which is most likely. +It rises into high Craggy hills, and the Shore seems to form several +Bays; if so, they must afford good Shelter for Shipping against Southerly +and Westerly winds.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Horn.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 25th. Winds from the South to the West-North-West, the first +part fresh Gales and Squally with some Rain; Middle, little wind with +Hail and Rain; latter, fresh Gales and Hazey, with Showers of Rain. At 8 +p.m. the Island of Evouts North-West, distant 3 or 4 miles. Variation, +per morning Amplitude 21 degrees 16 minutes East. At 8 a.m. the +Southermost low point of land seen Yesterday Bore South 74 degrees West, +and a remarkable Peaked Hill to the Southward of it South-West; and soon +after we discovered that the land which we took Yesterday to be a part of +the Main or an Island, was three Islands, which I take to be Hermites. At +Noon the South Point of the Southermost Island bore North-West by West +distant 3 leagues, having then 58 fathoms Peble Stones. This Point is +pretty high and consists of Peaked Craggy rocks, and not far from it lay +several others high above Water. It lies in the Latitude of 55 degrees 53 +minutes South and South-West 26 Leagues from Straits La Mair, and by some +on board thought to be Cape Horn; but I was of another Opinion, and with +good reason, because we saw land to the Southward of it about 3 or 4 +leagues. It appeared not unlike an Island with a very high round Hummock +upon it; this I believe to be Cape Horn, for after we had stood about 3 +Leagues the weather cleared up for about a quarter of an hour, which gave +us a sight of the land bearing West-South-West, but we could see no land +to the southward or Westward of it, and therefore conclude that it must +be the Cape, but whether it be an Island of itself, a part of the +Southermost of Hermits Islands, or a part of Terra del Fuego, I am not +able to determine. However, this is of very little Consequence to +Navigation: I only wished to be Certain whether or no it was the +Southermost Land on or near to Terra del Fuego; but the thick foggy +weather and the westerly winds which Carried us from the land prevented +me from satisfying my Curiosity in this point, but from its Latitude and +the reasons before given I think it must, and if so it must be Cape Horn, +and lies in the latitude of 55 degrees 53 minutes South and Longitude 68 +degrees 13 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich,* (* No doubt this +was Cape Horn, but it lies in 55 degrees 58 minutes South, 67 degrees 16 +minutes West.) being the Mean result of Several Observations of the sun +and moon made the day after we left the land, and which agreed with those +made at Straits Le Mair, allowing for the distance between one place and +the other, which I found means very accurately to determine. As we are +now about taking our departure from the Land, which we are not likely to +fall in with again, I shall give a more full Description of such parts of +the Coasts of Terra del Fuego as hath fallen under my inspection.</p> + +<p>We fell in with this Coast 21 Leagues to the Westward of Straits Le Mair, +and ranged the coast from thence to the Strait within 2 or 3 Leagues of +the Land, and had soundings all the way from 40 to 20 fathoms, a Gravelly +and Sandy Bottom. The land near the Shore is in general low but hilly, +the face of the Country appears Green and Woody, but in land are Craggy +Mountains; they appeared to be of no great height, nor were they Covered +with Snow. The most remarkable land on Terra Del Fuego is a high Mountain +in form of a Sugar Loaf, situated not far from the sea on the South-West +side of the Land, and 3 hills called the 3 Brothers. They lay near the +Shore and nine Miles to the Westward of Cape St. Diego, which is a low +point that forms the North-West Entrance of Strait Le Mair, and are +Contiguous to Each other. The Sugar Loaf lies from these Hills +South-South-West, and when it was in this situation the Appearances of +the Land is represented in the first View in the Chart, but it must be +observed that from this point of View the Three Brothers appear far more +Conspicuous than from any other; these land Marks are by some Voyagers +thought very necessary to know Strait Le Mair by, but whoever coasts +Terra Del Fuego within sight of land cannot possibly miss the Strait, it +being of itself so very Conspicuous; and Staten Land, which forms the +East side, is still more so from its very rugged appearance. One League +and a half to the Westward of Cape St. Diego lies Cape St. Vincent, +between these two Capes lies Vincent's Bay,* (* Now called Thetis Bay, it +is a very poor anchorage.) a Small Cove wherein is Wood and Water, and +before which a Ship might Anchor with a Southerly or South-West wind, but +the ground is none of the best, unless you go into the very Mouth of the +Cove, which is on the East side of the first Bluff point from Cape St. +Vincent, where there is Anchorage in 4 fathoms, a Sandy Bottom. In going +in keep clear of the Sea Weed, and send a Boat Ahead to sound, and at +best this is but a bad place for Shipping, and only recommended to such +as are in want of Wood and Water, and have no Opportunity to put into the +Strait, which in Prudence ought not to be attempted but with a fair wind +or Moderate weather, and upon the very first of the Tide of Flood, which +hapens here at the full and Change of the Moon about 1 or 2 o'clock, and +then to keep as near to Terra Del Fuego Shore as the winds will permit. +By using these Precautions you will be sure of either getting quite +through the Straits in one Tide or to the Southward of Success Bay; and +it may be more Prudent to put in there should the wind be Southerly, than +to attempt to weather Staten Land with a Lee Wind and Current, for I +believe this to be the Chief reason why Ships have run a Risk of being +drove on that Island.</p> + +<p>Strait Le Maire is formed on the West by part of Terra Del Fuego, and on +the East by the West end of Staten Land or Island; its Length and Breadth +is about 5 Leagues each; about the Middle of the Strait is Success Bay, +on Terra Del Fuego side, and about a 1/4 of a League more to the +Northwards is Port Maurice, a little Cove, before which we Anchored in 12 +fathoms.</p> + +<p>[Description of Strait of Le Maire.]</p> + +<p>The Bay of Success is discovered immediately upon entring the Strait from +the Northward; there is likewise a good Land Mark near the South head to +know it by, which is a Mark on the land like a lane or broad road leading +up from the Sea into the Country; this Bay is 1/2 a League Wide at the +Entrance, and lies in West 2 1/2 Miles, and hath good Anchorage in every +part of it, in 10, 8, and 7 fathoms clear ground, and affords plenty of +exceeding good Wood and Water. The Wood is of the Birch kind, but of a +diffrent Quality to that in England or North America; here are likewise +of the Winter Bark tree and some few others, Wild Selary, some Berrys +like Cranberrys, but growing on Bushes, very few Wild Fowls of any Sort, +and no Fish Except Shell Fish, such as Muscels, Limpets, etc.; and what +we saw of the interior parts of the Country is still more barren of the +necessaries of Life than the Sea. The few days we stay'd here we had +constant bad weather, the Winds from the South-West and West-South-West +with rain, Hail and Snow. Snow generally fell on the Hills everywhere +with these winds when we had rain in the Bay or upon the Sea Coast. I +observed the same in respect to Staten Land, but as it never froze it did +not lay long; yet it must render the Country Cold and barren, and unfit +for Cultivation. The Tides in Success Bay flows at the full and Change of +the Moon, about 4 or 5 o'Clock, and riseth between 5 and 6 feet +Perpendicular, but in the Strait the flood runs 2 or 3 Hours longer, and +there the Ebb or Southerly Current runs near Double the strength of the +Flood or Northerly Current.</p> + +<p>Staten Island lies nearest East and West, and from what I could see and +judge of it may be about 12 Leagues in length and 5 in breadth. On the +North side are the appearances of Bays or Harbours, and the land is not +destitute of Wood and Verdure, nor covered with Snow any more than Terra +del Fuego.</p> + +<p>On the South-West side of the Cape of good Success (which forms the +South-West entrance of Strait Le Mair, and is known by some rocks off it) +lies Valentine's Bay, the entrance of which we only saw. From this Bay +the land Trends to the West-South-West; for 20 or 30 Leagues it appears +High and Mountainous, and forms several Bays and inlets South-West 1/2 +South 14 Leagues from the Cape of good Success, and 2 or 3 Leagues from +the Shore lies New Island; it is 2 leagues in length, North-East and +South-West, the North-East end is terminated by a remarkable Hillock. +South-West 7 Leagues from New Island lies the Isle Evouts, and South, a +little Westerly from this island, lies Barnevelts, two small flatt +Islands close to each other; they are partly Environ'd with rocks of +Different height above water, and lay South-West 24 leagues from Strait +le Mair. From Barnevelts Island to the South-East point of Hermites +island is South-West by South, distance 3 Leagues. These Islands lay +South-East and North-West, and are pretty high, and will, from most +points of view, be taken for one Island or a part of the Main; from the +South-East point of Hermites Isles to Cape Horn, the Course is South-West +by South, distance 3 Leagues. The Appearance of this Cape and Hermites +Islands is represented in the last View in the chart which I have drawn +of this Coast from our first making the land unto Cape Horn, in which is +included Strait Le Mair and part of Staten Land. In this chart I have +laid down no land nor figured out any Shore, but what I saw myself and +thus far the Chart may be depended upon. The Bays and inlets are left +voide, the openings of which we only see from the Ship. It cannot be +doubted but what there is Anchorage, Wood and Water in those Bays, and it +must have been in some of them that the Dutch Squadron commanded by +Hermites put into in the year 1624. It was the Vice Admiral Chapenham, of +this Squadron, who first discovered that the land of Cape Horn was +consisted of a Number of Islands, but the account they have given of +those parts is very short and imperfect, and that of Schouton and Le +Maire still worse, that it is no wonder that the Charts hitherto +published should be found incorrect, not only in laying down the Land, +but in the Latitude and Longitude of the places they contain, but I can +now venture to Assert that the Longitude of few parts of the World are +better Ascertained than that of Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn, being +determined by several Observations of the Sun and moon made both by +myself and Mr. Green, the Astronomer.</p> + +<p>We found the Variation of the Compass on this Coast to be from 23 to 25 +degrees east, except near Barnevelts Islands and Cape Horn, where we +found it less and unsettled; it is likely that it is here disturbed by +the land, as the Dutch Squadron before mentioned found in this very place +all their Compasses to differ from each other. The declination of the +South point of the Dipping Needle when set up ashore in Success Bay was +68 degrees 15 minutes below the horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape +Horn we found a Current setting generally pretty strong to the North-East +when we were in with the Shore, but when 15 or 20 Leagues off we were not +sencible of any.</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN JANUARY 1769. SOUTH SEAS.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Horn.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 26th. Fresh Gales and thick Hazey weather, with small rain. At +2 p.m., the weather clearing up a little, saw Cape Horn bearing +West-South-West, distance about 6 leagues, and from which I take my +departure. Its Latitude and Longitude have before been taken notice of. +Wind South-West by West to West-North-West; course South 15 degrees West; +distance, 63 miles; latitude 56 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 68 +degrees 13 minutes West; at noon, Cape Horn North, 58 miles.</p> + +<p>Friday, 27th. First part, moderate breezes and thick Hazey weather; the +Middle, fair and Cloudy; and the Latter, fresh Gales with some rain. At 8 +a.m. took two Setts of Observations of the sun and moon; the first gave +68 degrees 15 minutes; the second, 68 degrees 9 minutes; the Mean of the +2 is 68 degrees 12 minutes West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by +these Observations is 68 degrees 42 minutes less 14 minutes, the +Longitude made from Cape Horn, equal to 68 degrees 28 minutes, the +longitude of Cape Horn according to the Observation. A Great many large +Albetrosses about the Ship. Wind, South-West, West and North; course, +South and West; distance, 32 miles; latitude 57 degrees 2 minutes South, +longitude 68 degrees 27 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 28th. Fresh Gales the most part of this day; first and Middle +parts cloudy; latter, clear with a Sharp cold air. At 2 p.m. saw the +land, bearing North, distant about 8 Leagues; it made in 2 Hummocks, and +appeared to be an Island, which I take to be the Isle of Diego Ramirez. +It lays in the Latitude of 56 degrees 38 minutes South and Longitude 68 +degrees 47 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* Diego Ramirez is in 56 +degrees 31 minutes South, 68 degrees 43 minutes West.) Found the +Variation this Evening to be 22 degrees East. A.M. had 3 sets of +Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude 69 degrees 7 +minutes 15 seconds West. The Longitude of the Ship at Noon by the +Observation is 69 degrees 24 minutes, from which take 1 degree 48 +minutes, the longitude made from Cape Horn, the remainder is 67 degrees +36 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape, which is 52 minutes less than the +result of Yesterday's Observations.* (* This was the best observation.) +This difference may arise partly from the Observations and partly from +the Ship's runs; the mean of the 2 gives 68 degrees 2 minutes and 68 +degrees 24 minutes, the Longitude of the Cape from the Observations taken +at Strait Maire 136 degrees 26 minutes/2 = 68 degrees 13 minutes West +from Greenwich. The Longitude of Cape Horn being deduced from no less +than 24 Observations taken at no very great distance from the Cape, and +on both sides of it, and when the Sun was both to the East and West of +the Moon; for in this case the Errors arising from the Observations are +most likely to Correct one another. Wind, North and West by North to +North-West by West; course, South 39 degrees West; distance, 80 miles; +latitude 58 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 70 degrees 1 minute West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 29th. First and Latter parts, fresh Gales and Squally, with +flying Showers of rain and Hail; the Middle, strong Gales with heavy +Squalls and showers of rain. At 8 p.m. took 2nd Reef Topsails, at 6 a.m. +Close reefd the Foretopsails and took in the Mizen Topsl, and at 10 set +it again and let the reef out of the Fore top-sails. Wind, West +Northerly; course South-West; distance, 79 miles; latitude 59 degrees 0 +minutes South, longitude 72 degrees 48 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 30th. Fore part, fresh Gales and Squally with Hail and rain, +remainder moderate and Cloudy. At 6 a.m. loosed the 2nd reef out of the +Topsails and set Top-gallant Sails. At 11 Longitude per 3 sets of +Observations of the sun and moon, 1st set 73 degrees 38 minutes 15 +seconds; second set 73 degrees 25 minutes 45 seconds; and 3rd, 73 degrees +19 minutes 30 seconds; the mean of the whole is 73 degrees 27 minutes 50 +seconds West, and 35 minutes less than the Longitude by Dead reckoning, +which is only 6 Leagues in this Latitude, and therefore not worth taking +notice of. Latitude per Observation 60 degrees 4 minutes South. Wind West +by North and West-North-West; course, South 33 degrees West; distance, 76 +miles; latitude 60 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 74 degrees 10 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 31st. First part moderate and Cloudy, with some rain; in the +night, little wind and Calm; towards Noon, fresh Gales and Cloudy. +Between 7 and 8 p.m., being then in the Latitude of 60 degrees 10 +minutes, which was the farthest south we were, and in the Longitude of 74 +degrees 30 minutes found the Variation of the Compass by the mean of +Azimuth to be 27 degrees 9 minutes East. At 3 a.m. wind at +East-South-East, and Moderate breeze. Set the Steeringsails, and soon +after 2 Birds like Penguins were seen by the Mate of the Watch. Wind +West-North-West, calm, East-South-East, South-South-East; course North 71 +degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 59 degrees 46 minutes South, +longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[February 1769.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, February 1st. First part, fresh Gales; latter, light Airs and +Cloudy; P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuth to be 24 degrees 53 +minutes East. At Noon sounded, but had no ground with 240 fathoms of +line; hoisted a Boat out to try if there was any Current, but found none. +The weather was such as to admit Mr. Banks to row round the Ship in a +Lighterman's Skiff shooting birds. Wind, South-East by East, +South-South-East, East; course, North-West by West; distance, 106 miles; +latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 78 degrees 42 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2nd. First part, light breezes and Cloudy; remainder, sometimes +a fresh breeze and at other times little wind and hazey, rainy, Cold +weather. Took in the Steeringsls and a reef in each Topsail. Wind +variable, North-North-West, South-West and South; course, West by North; +distance, 82 miles; latitude 58 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 80 +degrees 58 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 3rd. Calm and Light Airs, and for the most part Cloudy and +sometimes drizling rain. Variation 24 degrees 4 minutes East. Wind, West +by North, North-West by West; course South 82 West; distance 30 miles; +latitude 58 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude 81 degrees 55 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 4th. Fore and Middle parts, little wind and dark cloudy +weather; latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy with some rain. P.M. had a Boat +out and Shott several sorts of Birds, one of which was an Albetross as +large as a Goose, whose wings when Extended measured 10 feet 2 inches; +this was grey, but there are of them all White except the very tip end of +their Wings. Another sort, in size between an Albetross and a large Gull, +of a grey Colour, with a white Spot above their Tail about the Breadth of +one's hand, and several other sorts. Wind Westerly; course North 13 +degrees West; distance 48 miles; latitude 57 degrees 45 minutes South, +longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 5th. Fresh gales with heavy squalls the first part; remainder, +little wind and Cloudy. Very cold weather. Wind, West-South-West, West by +North and South-West by West; course North; distance 49 miles; latitude +56 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 6th. A moderate breeze of Wind with some flying showers of hail +and rain; close upon a Wind all this day. Wind South-West by West to West +by North; course North 1/4 East; distance 86 miles; latitude 55 degrees +20 minutes South, longitude 82 degrees 23 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 7th. A fresh breeze and dark cloudy weather, with some showers +of rain; the wind, varying from West to North by West, obliged us to Tack +several times. Wind North-West by West, West by South; course North 20 +degrees West; distance 46 miles; latitude 54 degrees 40 minutes South, +longitude 82 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 8th. First part, cloudy with Squalls of wind and Showers of +rain and hail; Latter part thick hazey weather, with frequent Showers. +Wind, Westerly, South by West; course North 14 degrees 43 minutes West; +distance 58 miles; latitude 53 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 83 +degrees 19 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. Fresh gales all this day, sometimes squally with rain; +under Double-reef Topsails in the night, and Single-reeft Topsail in the +day. Wind Southerly; course North 55 degrees West: distance 130 miles; +latitude 52 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 17 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. The former part of this day had fresh breezes and Dark +cloudy weather; in the night hard Squalls with rain, and afterwards hazy, +rainy weather. Wind Westerly; course North 22 degrees West; distance 67 +miles; latitude 51 degrees 16 minutes South, longitude 86 degrees 37 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 11th. Former part Light Airs with drizling rain; remainder, a +Moderate breeze and Cloudy. Wind, variable, southerly; course, North 54 +degrees West; distance 36 miles; latitude 50 degrees 55 minutes South, +longitude 87 degrees 24 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 12th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and cloudy; latter, +little wind and clear. Having for some time past generally found the Ship +by Observation to the Northward of the Log, which is not owing to a +Current as I at first imagined, but to a wrong Division of the Log line, +being 2 1/2 feet in each Knot--but this is now rectified. Wind South-West +by South; course North 48 degrees West; distance 113 miles; latitude 49 +degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 89 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 13th. The first part of these 24 Hours, moderate breezes and +Cloudy; remainder, fresh Gales and cloudy. P.M saw a great many +Albetrosses and other Birds about the Ship; some were all white and about +the size of Teal. Took several Observations of the sun and moon, the +result of which gave 90 degrees 13 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich. +The Variation of the Compass by the Mean of several Azimuths 17 degrees +East. The Longitude by account is less than that by Observation, 37 +minutes, which is about 20 Miles in these high Latitudes, and nearly +equal to the Error of the Log line before mentioned. This near Agreement +of the 2 Longitudes proves to a Demonstration that we have had no Western +Current since we left the Land. Wind West, Northerly; course North 75 +degrees West; distance 35 miles; latitude 49 degrees 35 minutes, +longitude 90 degrees 37 minutes.</p> + +<p>[Remarks on Passage round Cape Horn.]</p> + +<p>From the Foregoing observations it will appear that we are now advanced +about 12 degrees to the westward of the Strait of Magellan, and 3 1/2 +degrees to the Northward of it, having been 33* (* N.B. 23 days only from +Success Bay.) days in Doubling Cape Horn or the Land of Terra del Fuego, +and Arriving into the Degree of Latitude and Longitude we are now in, and +without being brought once under our close Reef'd Topsails since we left +Strait Le Maire, a Circumstance that perhaps never hapned before to any +ship in those Seas so much dreaded for Hard gales of Wind; in so much +that the doubling of Cape Horn is thought by some to be a mighty thing, +and others to this day prefer the Straits of Magellan. As I have never +been in those Straits I can only form my Judgement on a Carefull +Comparison of the Different Ships' Journals that have passed them, and +those that have sail'd round Cape Horn, particularly the Dolphin's two +last Voyages and this of ours, being made at the same season of the Year, +when one may reasonable expect the same Winds to prevail. The Dolphin in +her last Voyage was three Months in getting through the Straits, not +reckoning the time she lay in Port Famine; and I am firmly perswaided +from the Winds we have had, that had we come by that Passage we should +not have been in these Seas, besides the fatiguing of our People, the +damage we must have done to our Anchors, Cables, Sails, and Rigging, none +of which have suffer'd in our passage round Cape Horn.</p> + +<p>From what I have said it will appear that I am no advocate for the +Straits of Magellan, but it should be expected that I should say +something of Strait le Mair, through which we passed, and this is the +more incumbant on me as it was by choice and contrary to the Advice given +by Mr. Walter, the ingenious Author of Lord Anson's Voyage, who advised +all Ships not to go through this Strait but to go to the Eastward of +Staten Land, and likewise to stand to the Southward as far as 61 or 62 +degrees south before any Endeavour is made to get to the Westward. With +respect to the Passing of Strait le Mair or going round Staten Land, I +look upon of little Consequence, and either one or the other to be +pursued according to Circumstances; for if you happen to fall in with the +land to the Westward of the Strait, and the winds favourable for going +through, it certainly must be a piece of folly to lose time in going +round Staten Land, for by paying a little Attention to the Directions I +have already given no ill Consequences can attend; but on the Contrary if +you should fall in with the land to the eastward of the Straits or the +wind should prove Boisterous, or unfavourable, in any of these Cases the +going to the eastward of Staten Land is the most Advisable. And next, as +to running into the Latitude of 61 or 62 degrees South before any +Endeavour is made to get to the Westward, is what I think no man will +ever do that can avoid it, for it cannot be supposed that anyone will +steer south mearly to get into a high Latitude, when at the same time he +can steer west, for it is not Southing but Westing that is wanting. But +this way you cannot Steer because the Wind blows almost Constantly from +that Quarter, so that you have no other Choice but to stand to the +Southward, close upon a Wind, and by keeping upon that Tack you not only +make Southing but Westing also, and sometimes not a little when the wind +Varies to the Northward of West; and the farther you advance to the +Southward the better Chance you have of having the Winds from that +Quarter or Easterly, and likewise of meeting with finer weather, both of +which we ourselves Experienced. Prudence will direct every man when in +those high Latitudes to make sure of sufficient Westing to double all the +lands before he thinks of standing to the Northward. When the winds was +Westerly the Mountains on Terra Del Fuego were generally covered with +dense Clouds, formed, as one may reasonably suppose, by Westerly +Exhalations and by Vapours brought thither by the Westerly winds. From +that Quarter come frequent Showers of rain, hail, and Snow; and after we +had left the land and were standing to the Southward, with the winds +westerly, dark dence clouds were Continually forming in the Horizon, and +rose to about 45 degrees, where they began to dissipate. These were +generally attended with Showers of Rain, or hail, and Squals of Wind, but +as we advanced to the Southward, these Clouds became less dence, and in +the Latitude of 60 degrees 10 minutes, when we got the winds Easterly, +the weather was more serene and Milder; again as we advanced to the +Northward we had a constant Clouded sky and dark gloomy weather, the +whole time exceeding Cold.</p> + +<p>[Cape Horn to Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 14th. The first part, fresh Gales and Hazey with rain; the +remainder moderate and Cloudy, with frequent rain. Wind, Westerly, South; +course South-West; distance 32 miles; latitude 49 degrees 6 minutes +South, longitude 91 degrees 12 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 15th. Little wind and Cloudy the most part of this day. +Variation per Azimuth in the Evening 12 degrees East, and in the morning +both by an Amplitude and an Azimuth 11 degrees East. A.M. Shifted the +Mainsail, Mizen, Fore, and Main topsail. Wind, South-South-West, +South-West, West by North; course North 46 degrees West; distance 86 +miles; latitude 48 degrees 27 minutes South, longitude 92 degrees 5 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 16th. The first part of this day had fresh Gales and Cloudy; in +the night thick hazey weather with heavy squalls of wind and rain, which +obliged us to close-reef our Topsails. In the morning and all the +forenoon had strong gales and cloudy weather, and very heavy Seas from +the South-South-West, one of which broke upon the Quarter and carried +away the Driver Boom. Wind North-West, West, and South; course North 74 +degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South, +longitude 94 degrees 25 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 17th. Strong Gales and Cloudy the most part of this day. Split +the Maintopsail and unbent it, and bent another. Wind South-South-West; +course North-West by West 1/2 West; distance 132 miles; latitude 46 +degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 97 degrees 17 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 18th. Fresh gales all this day. The weather Variable, sometimes +fair and Cloudy, other times hazey, with drizzling rain. Saw some Birds +nearly as big as Albetrosses; they were all black, with Yellow Beaks. +Wind South-West by West; course North 32 degrees 30 minutes West; +distance 140 miles; latitude 44 degrees 50 minutes South, longitude 99 +degrees 7 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 19th. First part, fresh Gales and Hazey; the Middle part, hazey, +with drizling rain; the latter, gentle breezes and fine Clear weather, +yet the Air is still Cold. Wind South-West by West to West by South; +course North-North-West 3/4 West; distance 103 miles; latitude 43 degrees +21 minutes South, longitude 100 degrees 21 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes and fine weather the greater part of this +day, and the Sea very smooth. Found by repeated trials that the South +point of the Dipping Needle Dip'd 65 degrees 52 minutes below the +Horizon. Wind Westerly; course South 65 degrees West; distance 58 miles; +latitude 43 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 101 degrees 34 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 21st. Fresh breezes and pretty Clear weather. Variation 6 +degrees 30 minutes East. Wind North-West; course South 62 degrees West; +distance 115 miles; latitude 44 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 103 +degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 22nd. Hazey, rainy weather the most part of this Day. Wind +North-Westerly; course South 86 degrees West; distance 91 miles; latitude +44 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 106 degrees 1 minute West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 23rd. Little wind and Calm, and some Lightning, a thing we have +not seen for some time past, and therefore suppose not common in these +Seas in high Latitudes. Variation 5 degrees 34 minutes East. Wind +North-West, calm; course North 30 degrees East; distance 13 miles; +latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes South, longitude 105 degrees 52 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 24th. First part, Calm; Middle, light breezes; latter, fresh +breezes and hazey. P.M. had several Azimuths, all of which gave the +Variation less than 4 degrees East, but they were a little doubtful on +account of the Rowling of the Ship. What winds we have had this day hath +been from the Eastward, and are the first we have had from that Quarter +since we left the Latitude 58 degrees 46 minutes. Wind calm, +East-North-East and East-South-East; course North 42 degrees 45 minutes +West; distance 79 miles: latitude 43 degrees 37 minutes South, longitude +107 degrees 6 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. First and Middle parts, fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some +rain; the Latter, little Wind and Cloudy. Wind South-East by East, +South-South-East; course North 48 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 112 +miles; latitude 42 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 0 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th. First part, Calm and light Airs; remainder, very strong +gales and Squally, with Showers of rain, which at length brought us under +our two Courses, and close-reefed Maintopsail. Wind calm, North-West and +West-South-West; course North 26 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 88 +miles; latitude 41 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 109 degrees 52 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 27th. First part, Strong Gales and Cloudy; the remainder, Gentle +Breezes and clear weather. P.M. set the topsail one Reef out. A large +swell from the South-West. Wind westerly; course North 18 degrees West; +distance 85 miles; latitude 39 degrees 43 minutes South, 110 degrees 26 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. The former part little wind and fine clear weather; the +Air full as warm as in the same Degree of North Latitude at the +Correspondent Season of the Year. The South-West swells still keep up, +notwithstanding the Gale hath been over about 30 Hours, a proof that +there is no land near in that Quarter.* (* These are instances of Cook's +observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The prevailing belief of the +time was in a great southern continent.) The remainder part of this day +fresh breezes and clear. At 9 a.m. took 3 Sets of Observations of the sun +and moon in order to find the Longitude of the Ship. Wind West to +North-West; course North 13 degrees West; distance 42 miles; latitude 39 +degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 110 degrees 38 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>[March 1769.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, March 1st. First part fresh breezes, the remainder moderate +breezes and clear weather. The result of the Forementioned Observations +gives 110 degrees 33 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich, and exactly +agrees with the Longitude given by the Log from Cape Horn. This Agreement +of the two Longitudes after a Run of 660 leagues is surprizing, and much +more than could be expected; but, as it is so, it serves to prove, as +well as the repeated trials we have made when the weather would permit, +that we have had no Current that hath Affected the Ship since we came +into these Seas. This must be a great Sign that we have been near no land +of any extent, because near land are generally found Currents. It is well +known that on the East side of the Continent in the North Sea we meet +with Currents above 100 Leagues from the Land, and even in the Middle of +the Atlantic Ocean, between Africa and America, are always found +Currents; and I can see no reason why Currents should not be found in +this Sea, supposing a Continent or lands lay not far West from us, as +some have imaggin'd, and if such land was ever seen we cannot be far from +it, as we are now 560 leagues West of the Coast of Chili.* (* These are +instances of Cook's observation and seamanlike perspicacity. The +prevailing belief of the time was in a great southern continent.) Wind +West by South; course North 76 degrees West; distance 52 miles; latitude +38 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 43 minutes West; at +noon, Cape Horn South 60 degrees East 660 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2nd. Former part, fresh gales and hazey, with much rain; the +remainder, a Strong fresh gale and pretty clear weather. Wind Westerly; +course North by West; distance 87 miles; latitude 37 degrees 16 minutes +South, longitude 112 degrees 5 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 3rd. First part, moderate breezes; remainder, calm and clear +weather. A.M. employed filling salt Water in the Fore Hold and airing all +the Spare Sails. Wind West, calm; course North 17 degrees East; distance +31 miles; latitude 36 degrees 49 minutes South, longitude 111 degrees 34 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 4th. First part, Calm; remainder, a fine genteel breeze and +clear weather. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude this Evening 2 degrees +26 minutes East. The South-West swell still keeps up, notwithstanding it +hath been Calm 24 hours. Wind calm, North-East, North; course North 50 +degrees West; distance 58 miles; latitude 36 degrees 12 minutes South, +longitude 112 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 5th. First and latter parts, fine Clear weather; the Middle, +fresh gales and Hazey, with rain. Wind North-West by North and +North-West; course South 81 degrees 40 minutes West; distance 64 miles; +latitude 36 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 114 degrees 9 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Tolerable clear weather all this day. +The wind a little Variable, which caused us to Tack several Times. Wind +North-West by North to West-North-West; course South 57 degrees West; +distance 20 miles; latitude 36 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 114 +degrees 30 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 7th. A Moderate steady breeze and clear weather. Wind +North-West; course South 64 degrees 15 minutes West; distance, 83 miles; +latitude 37 degrees 8 minutes South, longitude 116 degrees 8 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 8th. The first and Middle parts moderate breezes and Cloudy; +the Latter Part Variable winds and much Rain. Wind North-West, variable; +course South 78 degrees West; distance, 76 miles; latitude 37 degrees 24 +minutes South, longitude 117 degrees 41 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. First part, moderate and Hazey, with Drizling rain; the +remainder fresh breezes and clear weather. Variation 4 degrees 41 minutes +east. Wind South-West by West to South by East; course North 38 degrees +West; distance 123 miles; latitude 35 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude +119 degrees 18 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. Moderate breezes and fine Pleasant weather. Wind +South-East; course North 40 degrees West; distance 121 miles; latitude 34 +degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 120 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 11th. A Steady gale and fine weather. Variation 4 degrees 12 +minutes East. Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees 15 minutes West; +distance 116 miles; latitude 32 degrees 54 minutes South, longitude 122 +degrees 35 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 12th. Ditto weather. Variation 4 degrees 12 minutes East. Put the +Ship's Company to three Watches, they having been at Watch and Watch +since our first arrival on the coast of Terra del Fuego. Wind South-East; +course North 49 degrees West; distance 122 miles; latitude 31 degrees 34 +minutes South, longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 13th. First part a Steady, fresh Gale; the remainder, little wind +and fine Clear weather. Wind South-East; course North 48 degrees 15 +minutes West; distance 72 miles; latitude 30 degrees 46 minutes South, +longitude 125 degrees 28 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 14th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. took +several Observations of the sun and moon; the mean result of which gave +126 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, the Longitude of the Ship West of +Greenwich, and is 47 degrees Longitude West of account carried on from +Cape Horn. Wind South, East-South-East, East-North-East; course North 50 +degrees West; distance 47 miles; latitude 30 degrees 17 minutes South, +longitude 126 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 15th. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation, p.m. 3 +degrees 45 minutes East, a.m. 3 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw a Tropic +Bird. Wind, East-North-East and East-South-East; course, North 47 degrees +15 minutes West; distance, 50 miles; latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes +South, longitude 126 degrees 53 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 16th. Light Airs next to a Calm and clear Weather. Variation by +the mean result of 21 Azimuths, 1 degree 30 minutes East. This evening +observed an Occultation of h by the [crescent],* (* h is Saturn, +[crescent] the Moon.) Immersion at ---- hours ---- minutes and Emersion +at ---- hours ---- minutes ---- seconds a.m.* (* Blanks in manuscript.) +Variation per several Azimuths 2 degrees East. Wind East-South-East, +South-South-East, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 34 miles; +latitude 29 degrees 22 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 8 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 17th. Little wind and fine Pleasant weather. Variation, p.m. 3 +degrees 27 minutes East. Wind, South-East by South; course, North 20 +degrees West; distance, 55 miles; latitude 28 degrees 30 minutes South, +longitude 127 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 18th. First part, little wind and Cloudy; latter, fresh gales +and hard Squalls, with much rain. Took 2 Reefs in the Topsails. Wind +North-East North; course North 60 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 78 +miles; latitude 27 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 128 degrees 44 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 19th. First part fresh Gales and Squally, with rain; remainder +more moderate and cloudy. Variation, a.m. per Means of several Azimuths, +3 degrees 14 minutes East. Loosed the 2d reefs out of the Topsails. Wind +between the North and West; course North 52 degrees West; distance 50 +miles; latitude 27 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 20th. A Fine breeze and pleasant weather. Saw several Tropic +Birds. Wind West; course North; distance 95 miles; latitude 25 degrees 44 +minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 21st. First part little wind, the remainder Calm. Variation, 3 +degrees 43 minutes East. Saw some rock weed and a great many Tropic +Birds. Wind West by North, calm; course North; distance 23 miles; +latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 28 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 22nd. First part Calm, in the night Squally, with rain. A.M. a +fresh breeze and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees 10 minutes +East. Saw some Egg Birds. Wind North by East to North-North-West; course +West; distance 57 miles; latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South, longitude +129 degrees 52 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 23rd. Fresh gales and Squally, with rain, the first part; +remainder fresh Gales and Cloudy. P.M. saw some Men-of-War Birds, and Egg +Birds, and in the Morning saw more Egg Birds and Tropic Birds. The +Man-of-War and Tropic Birds are pretty well known, but the Egg Bird (as +it is called in the Dolphin's Journal) requires some discription to know +it by that Name. It is a small slender Bird of the Gull kind, and all +white, and not much unlike the small white Gulls we have in England, only +not so big.* (* Terns.) There are also Birds in Newfoundland called +Stearings that are of the same shape and Bigness, only they are of a +Greyish Colour. These Birds were called by the Dolphin Egg Birds on +account of their being like those known by that name by Sailors in the +Gulph of Florida; neither they nor the Man-of-War Birds are ever reckoned +to go very far from Land. Wind North by West to West by North: course +North 13 degrees West; distance 49 miles; latitude 24 degrees 43 minutes +South, longitude 130 degrees 8 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Passing Low Archipelago.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 24th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some rain in the forepart of +this day. All the forepart of these 24 hours the Sea was smooth, but at +12 at night it was more so, and about 3 in the Morning one of the people +saw, or thought he saw, a Log of Wood pass the Ship. This made us think +that we were near some land,* (* The Endeavour was now passing to the +northward of the easternmost islands of the Paumotu or Low Archipelago, +though out of sight of them.) but at daylight we saw not the least +appearance of any, and I did not think myself at liberty to spend time in +searching for what I was not sure to find, although I thought myself not +far from those Islands discovered by Quiros in 1606; and very probably we +were not, from the birds, etc., we have seen for these 2 or 3 days past. +Wind West-North-West to North-West; course North-East by North 1/4 East; +distance 99 miles; latitude 22 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 129 +degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. First part dark cloudy weather, with rain and a fresh +breeze of wind; remainder fair and Cloudy. Wind North-West by North, to +West by North; course North-East 1/2 North; distance 95 miles; latitude +22 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 55 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th. Squally weather, with rain. At 5 p.m. saw some sea Weed +pass the Ship, and at 7 William Greenslade, Marine, either by Accident or +design, went overboard and was Drowned. The following circumstances makes +it appear as tho' it was done design'dly. He had been Centinel at the +Steerage door between 12 and 4 o'clock, where he had taken part of a Seal +Skin put under his charge, and which was found upon him. The other +Marines thought themselves hurt by one of their party commiting a crime +of this nature, and he being a raw young fellow, and, as very probable, +made him resolve upon commiting this rash Action, for the Serjeant not +being willing that it should pass over unknown to me, was about 7 o'clock +going to bring him aft and have it inquired into, when he gave him the +Slip between Decks, and was seen to go upon the Forecastle, and from that +time was seen no more. I was neither made acquainted with the Theft or +the Circumstances attending it, until the Man was gone. Wind, North-West +to West; longitude 127 degrees 43 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 27th. Variable winds and weather, with frequent showers of rain. +At Noon saw a Bird like a Gannet. Wind variable; course North 1/4 East; +distance 30 miles; latitude 21 degrees 2 minutes South, longitude 127 +degrees 38 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. Little wind and Cloudy. Variation per Amplitude 3 degrees +56 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course North-North-West; distance 37 +miles; latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 127 degrees 50 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29th. Little winds and Cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth 2 +degrees 27 minutes East. Saw a Bird like a Dove and several fish about +the Ship. Employed worming the Best Br. Cable, repairing and Painting the +Boats. Wind Easterly; course North 75 degrees West; distance 50 miles; +latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 30th. First part, Calm and close Cloudy weather; in the night +had Variable winds and weather, with rain. A.M. Genteel Breezes and +Cloudy weather. Between 10 and 11 a.m. took several Observations of the +sun and moon; the mean result of them gave the Longitude of the Ship at +Noon to be 127 degrees 38 minutes, and is 1 degree 49 minutes East of the +Longitude given by the Log; but on the 4th Instant the ship by +Observation was 47 minutes West of the Log, therefore she must have lost +2 degrees 36 minutes of the Log since the last Observation--an Error too +great to be accounted for. Wind calm, variable, South-South-East; course +North 40 degrees West; distance 53 miles; latitude 19 degrees 34 minutes +South, longitude 129 degrees 27 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 31st. A Steady breeze and fine pleasant weather. A.M. took +several Observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of them came +within 8 Miles of Yesterday's Observations computed both by Mr. Green and +myself, and yet cannot think so great an error can have been committed in +the ship's run in so short a time as these observations seem to point +out, and therefore I shall abide by the Longitude given by the Log unless +from subsequent Observations this error should be found to be just. Wind +South; course North 75 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 111 miles; +latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 131 degrees 21 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>[April 1769.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, April 1st. A steady fresh Trade and fine Weather. Variation per +several Azimuths 2 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind South-East to East 1/2 +North; course West; distance 122 miles; latitude 19 degrees 7 minutes +South, longitude 133 degrees 28 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 2nd. A fresh Trade wind and fine pleasant weather. At Noon saw a +Large flock of Birds; they had brown backs and white Bellies. They fly +and make a noise like Stearings, and are shaped like them, only something +larger. Saw likewise some black Sheerwaters and Several Man-of-War birds. +Wind East; course North 86 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 118 miles; +latitude 19 degrees 0 minutes South, longitude 135 degrees 33 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 3rd. First and Latter parts a steady fresh Breeze and cloudy; the +Middle, sometimes squally with rain, at other times little wind. P.M. saw +2 Birds like Albetrosses; they were all white except the Tip of their +wings and Tails. Wind East; course North 82 degrees 45 minutes West; +distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 46 minutes South, longitude 137 +degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 4th. A Steady fresh Trade and clear weather. At 1/2 past 10 a.m. +saw land bearing south, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. Haul'd up for it, and +soon found it to be an Island of about 2 Leagues in Circuit and of an +Oval form, with a Lagoon in the Middle, for which I named it Lagoon +Island. The Border of land Circumscribing this Lagoon is in many places +very low and narrow, particularly on the south side, where it is mostly a +Beach or Reef of rocks; it is the same on the North side in 3 places, and +these disjoins the firm land and make it appear like so many Islands +covered with wood. On the West end of the Island is a large Tree which +looks like a large Tower, and about the Middle of the Island are two +Cocoa Nutt Trees that appears above all the other wood, which as we +approached the Island looked very much like a flag. We approached the +north side of this Island within a Mile, and found no Bottom with 130 +fathoms of line, nor did there appear to be Anchorage about it. We saw +several of the Inhabitants, the most of them men, and these Marched along +the shore abreast of the Ships with long Clubs in their hands as tho' +they meant to oppose our landing. They were all naked except their Privy +parts, and were of a Dark Copper Colour with long black Hair, but upon +our leaving the Island some of them were seen to put on a Covering, and +one or two we saw in the Skirts of the Wood was Cloathed in White; these +we supposed to be Women. This Island lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees +47 minutes and Longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes West from the Meridian of +Greenwich;* (* This island is Vahitahi, one of the Paumotu or Low +Archipelago.) variation 2 degrees 54 minutes East. Wind East, East by +South; course North 88 degrees West; distance 114 miles; latitude 18 +degrees 42 minutes South, longitude 139 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 5th. A fresh steady gale and fine weather. At 1 p.m. made Sail +to the Westward, and at 1/2 past 3 saw land to the North-West, which we +got up with at Sun sett and proved to be a low woody Island of a Circular +form, and not much above a Mile in Compass. This Island I called Thrum +Cap* (* Akiaki. It is inhabited.); it lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees +35 minutes South and in the Longitude of 139 degrees 48 minutes West from +Greenwich, and North 62 degrees West, 7 Leagues from Lagoon Island. We +saw no inhabitants, nor the appearance of any, and yet we were within 1/2 +a Mile of the Shore. I observed by the Shore that it was near low Water, +and at Lagoon Island I observed that it was either high Water or else +there was no Ebbing and flowing of the Sea. From these Circumstances I +infer that a South by East or South Moon makes high Water. Here we caught +a King Fish, being the first fish we have got in these Seas. Wind East; +course North 77 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 79 miles; latitude 18 +degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 6th. A fresh Trade and fine Pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. Saw +land to the Westward, which proved to be an Island of about 12 or 15 +Leagues in Compass; is very low and entirely drown'd in the Middle, +forming there a large lake, into which there appeared to be no inlet. The +border of land and Reef surrounding this lake like a wall appeared to be +of a Bow-like figure, for which reason I named it Bow Island. The South +side, along which we sail'd, was one continued low narrow Beach or Reef +like a Causeway for 4 Leagues and upwards, and lies East by North and +West by South. The East and West Ends and North side of this Island are +wooded-in Groves, and the firm Land appeared disjoined and like a Number +of Islands, and very probably is so. The North-West parts of the Island +we only saw aCross the Lake, and not very distinct on account of its +great extent, and night coming on before we had run the whole length of +the Island. This description must be imperfect, and the whole Island may +form a Different figure to what I have here described.* (* Hao. It is a +large atoll, thirty miles in length. Cook only saw a portion of it.) The +east end lies in the Latitude of 18 degrees 23 minutes South, and +Longitude 141 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich. Variation 5 degrees +38 minutes East. This Island is Inhabited; we not only saw smook in +Different Parts, but people also. At Noon saw Land to the Westward. Wind +east; course North 85 degrees West; distance 94 miles; latitude 18 +degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 142 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 7th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. got up with the +East end of the Land seen yesterday at Noon, and which proved to be an +assemblage of Islands join'd together by Reef, and extending themselves +North-West by North and South-East by South in 8 or 9 Leagues and of +various breadths; but there appeared to be a total Seperation in the +middle by a Channell of half a Mile broad, and on this account they are +called the two Groups.* (* Marokau and Ravahare. Two atolls close +together.) The South Eastermost of them lies in the Latitude of 18 +degrees 12 minutes and Longitude of 142 degrees 42 minutes West from +Greenwich, and West 1/2 North distant 25 Leagues from the West end of Bow +Island. We ranged along the South-West side of this Island, and hauled +into a Bay which lies to the North-West of the Southermost point of them, +and where there appeared to be Anchorage and the Sea was smooth and not +much Surf on the Shore; but we found no ground with 100 fathoms 3/4 of a +Mile from the Shore, and nearer we did not go. Here several of the +Inhabitants assembled together with their Canoes, with a design, as we +thought, to come off to us, as they hauld one of them over the reef +seemingly for that purpose; but after waiting near 1/2 an hour, and they +not attempting to come, we bore away and made Sail, and presentley the +Canoe put off after us; but, as we did not stop, they soon went back +again. They were in all respects like those we had seen on Lagoon Island, +and Armed with Clubs and long Pikes like them. At 1/2 past 6 a.m. Saw a +small Island to the Northward, hauled our wind for it, and soon got close +in with it. It is about 3 or 4 Miles in Circuit, and very low, with a +Pond in the Middle. There is some wood upon it, but no inhabitants but +Birds, and for this reason is called Bird Island.* (* Reitoru.) It lies +in the latitude 17 degrees 48 minutes and longitude 143 degrees 35 +minutes West, and West 1/2 North 10 Leagues from the West end of the two +Groups. The birds we saw were Men-of-War Birds and several other sorts. +Wind East; course North 66 degrees West; distance 66 miles; latitude 17 +degrees 48 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 31 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 8th. Fresh Trade and pleasant weather, but about noon had a few +flying showers of rain. Variation 6 degrees 32 minutes East. Wind East by +South and East; course North 87 degrees West; distance 100 miles; +latitude 17 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. A steady fresh gale and pleasant weather. At 2 p.m. saw Land +to the Northward, hauld up for it, and found it to be a double range of +low woody islands joined together by reefs, by which means they make one +Island in form of an Ellipsis or Oval, in the Middle of which is a Salt +water lake. The small Islands and reefs circumscribes or bounds this lake +like a Chain; it is therefore called Chain Island.* (* Anaa.) It is in +length, North-West and South-East, about 5 Leagues, and in breadth about +5 Miles. The middle of it lies in the Latitude of 17 degrees 23 minutes +South, and Longitude 145 degrees 54 minutes West, and West by North 45 +Leagues from Bird Island. Variation per Several Azimuths 4 degrees 54 +minutes East. Wind East by North to North by East; course West, +Northerly; distance 81 miles; latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes South, +longitude 146 degrees 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. P.M. moderate breezes and cloudy; in the Night, dark, +cloudy, unsettled weather, with very much Thunder, Lightning, and rain. +A.M. little wind and fair. P.M. variation per Several Azimuths 5 degrees +41 minutes East. At 8 a.m. saw Osnaburg Island* (* Maitea, the +easternmost of the Society Islands, which are all high, and a great +contrast to the low coral atolls of the Paumotus.) (so called by Captain +Wallis, the first discoverer) bearing North-West by West, distance 4 or 5 +Leagues. It is a high round Island, and appears to be not above a League +in Circuit, and when it bears as above it looks like a high Crown'd Hatt, +but when it bears North the Top is more like the roof of a House. It lies +in the Latitude of 17 degrees 48 minutes South and Longitude 148 degrees +10 minutes West, and West by South, 44 Leagues, from Chain Island. Wind +North-North-West, variable, North-West by North; course South 13 degrees +West; distance 67 miles; latitude 18 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude +147 degrees 47 minutes West; at noon, Osnaburg Island North by West 1/2 +West, 5 leagues.</p> + +<p>[Arrive at Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th. First part, little wind and cloudy; the remainder, little +wind and very Variable; unsettled weather, with some rain. P.M. took +several Observations of the sun and moon, which gave the Longitude of the +ship to be 148 degrees 18 minutes West, and differs but little from that +given by the Log. At 6 a.m. saw King George's Island* (* So named by +Captain Wallis. The native name was ascertained by Cook, who spelt it +Otaheite. Now known as Tahiti. It is the chief island of the Society +Group, and was annexed by the French in 1844.) Extending from West by +South 1/2 South to West by North 1/2 North. It appeared very high and +Mountainous. Wind variable; course North 66 degrees West; distance 54 +miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 39 +minutes West; Osnaburg Island East 1/2 South, 13 leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. Variable, light Airs all these 24 Hours, and Hot sultry +weather. At 5 p.m. King George's Island extending from North-West by West +to South-West, distance 6 or 7 Leagues; and at 6 a.m. it bore from +South-South-West to West by North, being little wind with Calms. Several +of the Natives came off to us in their Canoes, but more to look at us +than anything else. We could not prevail with any of them to come on +board, and some would not come near the ship. Wind variable; course West; +distance 18 miles; latitude 17 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 148 +degrees 58 minutes West; at noon, King George's Island, from South to +West by North, 5 leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. The first part Cloudy and Squally, with Showers of rain; +remainder, genteel breezes and clear weather. At 4 p.m. the North-East +point of Royal Bay West 1/2 North; run under an easy sail all night, and +had soundings from 22 to 12 fathoms 2 or 3 Miles from the Shore. At 5 +a.m. made sail for the bay, and at 7 anchored in 13 fathoms.* (* Matavai +Bay.) At this time we had but very few men upon the sick list, and these +had but slite complaints. The Ship's company had in general been very +healthy, owing in a great measure to the Sour kroutt, Portable Soup and +Malt; the two first were served to the People, the one on Beef Days and +the other on Banyan Days. Wort was made of the Malt, and at the +discretion of the Surgeon given to every man that had the least simptoms +of Scurvy upon him. By this means, and the Care and Vigilance of Mr. +Monkhouse, the Surgeon, this disease was prevented from getting a footing +in the Ship. The Sour Kroutt, the Men at first would not eat it, until I +put it in practice--a method I never once Knew to fail with seamen--and +this was to have some of it dressed every day for the Cabin Table, and +permitted all the Officers, without exception, to make use of it, and +left it to the Option of the men either to take as much as they pleased +or none at all; but this practice was not continued above a Week before I +found it necessary to put every one on board to an allowance; for such +are the Tempers and disposition of Seamen in general that whatever you +give them out of the common way--altho' it be ever so much for their +good--it will not go down, and you will hear nothing but murmurings +against the Man that first invented it; but the moment they see their +superiors set a value upon it, it becomes the finest stuff in the world +and the inventor an honest fellow. Wind easterly.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch3"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER 3. TAHITI.</h2> + +<h3>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES, ETC., AT GEORGE'S ISLAND.</h3> + +<p>[At Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>NOTE. The way of reckoning the day in Sea Journals is from Noon to Noon, +but as the most material transaction at this Island must hapen in the Day +time, this method will be attended with ill conveniences in inserting the +transactions of each day; for this reason I shall during our stay at this +Island, but no longer, reckon the day according to the Civil account that +is to begin and end at Midnight.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner come to an Anchor in Royal Bay, as before-mentioned, +than a great number of the Natives in their Canoes came off to the Ship +and brought with them Cocoa Nuts, etc.; these they seem'd to set a great +value upon. Amongst those that came off to the Ship was an elderly man +whose Name was Owhaa, him the Gentlemen that had been here before in the +Dolphin* (* Lieutenant Gore and Mr. Molineux, the Master.) knew and had +often spoke of as one that had been of Service to them. This man +(together with some others) I took on board and made much of, thinking +that he might on some occasions be of use to us. As our stay at this +place was not likely to be very short, I thought it very necessary that +some order should be observed in Traficking with the Natives, that such +Merchandize as we had on board for that purpose might continue to bear a +proper value, and not leave it to everyone's own particular fancy, which +could not fail to bring on Confusion and Quarrels between us and the +Natives, and would infallibly lessen the value of such Articles as we had +to trafick with. In Order to prevent this, the following rules were +ordered to be Observed; viz.:--</p> + +<p>Rules to be observed by every person in or belonging to His Majesty's +Bark the Endeavour for the better Establishing a regular and uniform +Trade for Provisions, etc., with the Inhabitants of George's Island:--</p> + +<p>1. To endeavour by every fair means to Cultivate a Friendship with the +Natives, and to treat them with all imaginable humanity.</p> + +<p>2. A Proper Person or Persons will be appointed to Trade with the Natives +for all manner of Provisions, Fruits, and other Productions of the Earth; +and no Officer or Seaman or other person belonging to the Ship, excepting +such as are so appointed, shall Trade or offer to Trade for any sort of +Provisions, Fruit or other Productions of the Earth, unless they have my +leave so to do.</p> + +<p>3. Every Person employ'd on shore on any duty whatsoever is strictly to +attend to the same, and if by neglect he looseth any of His Arms or +working Tools, or suffers them to be stole, the full value thereof will +be charged against his pay, according to the Custom of the Navy in such +Cases, and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the +Offence may deserve.</p> + +<p>4. The same Penalty will be inflicted upon every person who is found to +Embezzle, Trade, or Offer to Trade with any of the Ship's Stores of what +Nature so ever.</p> + +<p>5. No sort of Iron or anything that is made of Iron, or any sort of Cloth +or other useful or necessary Articles, are to be given in Exchange for +anything but Provisions.</p> + +<p>J.C.</p> + +<p>As soon as the Ship was properly secured I went on shore, accompanied by +Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen,* (* Cook generally uses this term for +the civilians on board.) with a Party of Men under Arms; we took along +with us Owhaa--who took us to the place where the Dolphin watered, and +made signs to us as well as we could understand that we might Occupy that +ground, but it hapned not to be fit for our purpose. No one of the +Natives made the least opposition at our landing, but came to us with all +imaginable Marks of Friendship and Submission. We Afterwards made a +Circuit through the Woods, and then came on board. We did not find the +inhabitants to be numerous, and we imagin'd that several of them had fled +from their habitations upon our Arrival in the Bay.</p> + +<p>Friday, 14th. This morning we had a great many Canoes about the Ship; the +most of them came from the Westward, and brought nothing with them but a +few Cocoa Nuts, etc. Two that appeared to be Chiefs we had on board, +together with several others, for it was a hard matter to keep them out +of the Ship, as they Climb like Munkeys; but it was still harder to keep +them from Stealing but everything that came within their reach; in this +they are Prodigious Expert. I made each of these two Chiefs a present of +a Hatchet, things that they seemed mostly to value. As soon as we had +partly got clear of these People I took 2 Boats and went to the Westward, +all the Gentlemen being along with me. My design was to see if there was +not a more commodious Harbour, and to try the disposition of the Natives, +having along with us the 2 Chiefs above mentioned; the first place we +landed at was in great Canoe Harbour (so called by Captain Wallis); here +the Natives Flocked about us in great numbers, and in as friendly a +manner as we could wish, only that they show'd a great inclination to +Pick our Pockets. We were conducted to a Chief, who for distinction sake +we called Hurcules. After staying a short time with him, and distributing +a few Presents about us, we proceeded farther, and came to a Chief who I +shall call Lycurgus; this man entertained us with broil'd fish, Cocoa +Nutts, etc., with great Hospitality, and all the time took great care to +tell us to take care of our Pockets, as a great number of People had +crowded about us. Notwithstanding the care we took, Dr. Solander and Dr. +Monkhouse had each of them their Pockets picked: the one of his spy glass +and the other of his snuff Box. As soon as Lycurgus was made acquainted +with the Theft he dispers'd the people in a moment, and the method he +made use of was to lay hold on the first thing that came in his way and +throw it at them, and happy was he or she that could get first out of his +way. He seem'd very much concern'd for what had hapned, and by way of +recompence offered us but everything that was in his House; but we +refused to accept of anything, and made signs to him that we only wanted +the things again. He had already sent people out after them, and it was +not long before they were return'd. We found the Natives very numerous +wherever we came, and from what we could judge seemed very peacably +inclin'd. About six o'Clock in the evening we return'd on board, very +well satisfied with our little Excursion.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. Winds at East during the day, in the Night a light breeze +off the land; and as I apprehend it be usual here for the Trade wind to +blow during a great part of the day from the Eastern Board, and to have +it Calm or light breezes from the land that is Southerly during the night +with fair weather, I shall only mention the wind and weather when they +deviate from this rule. This morning several of the Chiefs we had seen +Yesterday came on board, and brought with them Hogs, Bread fruit, etc., +and for these we gave them Hatchets, Linnen, and such things as they +valued. Having not met with yesterday a more Convenient situation for +every purpose we wanted than the place we now are, I therefore, without +delay, resolved to pitch upon some spot upon the North-East point of the +Bay, properly situated for observing the Transit of Venus, and at the +same time under the command of the Ship's Guns, and there to throw up a +small fort for our defence. Accordingly I went ashore with a party of +men, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. We took along +with us one of Mr. Banks's Tents, and after we had fix'd upon a place fit +for our purpose we set up the Tent and marked out the ground we intended +to Occupy. By this time a number of the Natives had got collected +together about us, seemingly only to look on, as not one of them had any +weapon, either Offensive or defensive. I would suffer none to come within +the lines I had marked out, excepting one who appeared to be a chief and +old Owhaa--to these 2 men we endeavour'd to explain, as well as we could, +that we wanted that ground to Sleep upon such a number of nights and then +we should go away. Whether they understood us or no is uncertain, but no +one appeared the least displeased at what we was about; indeed the Ground +we had fixed upon was of no use to them, being part of the sandy Beach +upon the shore of the Bay, and not near to any of their Habitations. It +being too late in the day to do anything more, a party with a petty +officer was left to guard the Tent, while we with another party took a +Walk into the woods, and with us most of the natives. We had but just +crossed the River when Mr. Banks shott three Ducks at one shott, which +surprised them so much that most of them fell down as though they had +been shott likewise. I was in hopes this would have had some good effect, +but the event did not prove it, for we had not been long from the Tent +before the natives again began to gather about, and one of them more +daring than the rest pushed one of the Centinels down, snatched the +Musket out of his hand and made a push at him, and then made off, and +with him all the rest. Immediately upon this the Officer ordered the +party to fire, and the Man who took the musket was shot Dead before he +had got far from the Tent, but the musquet was carried quite off when +this hapned. I and Mr. Banks with the other party was about half a Mile +off, returning out of the woods, upon hearing the firing of Muskets, and +the Natives leaving us at the same time, we Suspected that something was +the matter and hastened our march, but before we arrived the whole was +over, and every one of the Natives fled except old Owhaa, who stuck by us +the whole time, and I believe from the first he either knew or had some +suspicion that the People would attempt something at the Tent, as he was +very much against our going into the Woods out of sight of the Tent. +However, he might have other reasons, for Mr. Hicks, being ashore the day +before, the natives would not permit him to go into the Woods. This made +me resolved to go and see whether they meant to prescribe bounds to us or +no. Old Owhaa, as I have said before, was the only one of the Natives +that stayed by us, and by his means we prevail'd on about 20 of them to +come to the Tent and there sit down with us, and Endeavour'd by every +means in our power to Convince them that the Man was kill'd for taking +away the Musket, and that we still would be friends with them. At sunset +they left us seemingly satisfied, and we struck our Tent and went on +board.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th. This day worked the Ship nearer the Shore and moored her in +such a manner as to command all the shore of the North-East part of the +Bay, but more particularly the place where we intended to Erect a Fort. +Punished Richard Hutchins, seaman, with 12 lashes for disobeying +commands. Several of the Natives came down to the shore of the Bay, but +not one of them came off to the Ship during the whole day. In the evening +I went on shore with only a Boat's crew and some of the Gentlemen. The +Natives gathered about us to the Number of about 30 or 40, and brought us +Cocoa Nuts, etc., and seemed as friendly as ever.</p> + +<p>Monday, 17th. At two o'Clock this morning, departed this life, Mr. Alex +Buchan, Landskip Draftsman to Mr. Banks, a Gentleman well skill'd in his +profession and one that will be greatly missed in the Course of this +Voyage. He had long been subject to a disorder in his Bowels, which had +more than once brought him to the very point of Death, and was at one +time subject to fits, of one of which he was taken on Saturday morning; +this brought on his former disorder, which put a Period to his life. Mr. +Banks thought it not so advisable to Inter the Body ashore in a place +where we were utter strangers to the Custom of the Natives on such +occasions; it was therefore sent out to sea and committed to that Element +with all the decency the Circumstance of the place would admit of. This +morning several of the Chiefs from the westward made us a Visit: they +brought with them Emblems of Peace, which are Young Plantain Trees. These +they put on board the Ship before they would venture themselves. They +brought us a present of 2 Hogs (an Article we find here very Scarce) and +some Bread Fruit; for these they had Hatchets and other things. In the +afternoon we set up one of the Ship's Tents ashore, and Mr. Green and +myself stay'd there the night to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's first +Satilite, which we was hinder'd from seeing by Clouds.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. Cloudy weather with some showers of rain. This morning +took as many people out of the Ship as could possibly be spared, and set +about Erecting a Fort. Some were employ'd in throughing up intrenchment, +while others was cutting facines, Picquets, etc. The Natives were so far +from hindering us that several of them assisted in bringing the Picquets +and facines out of the woods, and seemed quite unconcern'd at what we was +about. The wood we made use of for this occasion we purchased of them, +and we cut no Tree down before we had first obtained their Consent. By +this time all the Ship's sails were unbent and the Armourer's Forge set +up to repair the Ironwork, etc. Served fresh Pork to the Ship's Company +to-day for the first time. This is like to be a very scarce Article with +us, but as to Bread fruit, Cocoa Nutts and Plaintains, the Natives supply +us with as much as we can destroy.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th. This morning Lycurgus, whose real name is +Toobouratomita, came with his family from the Westward in order, from +what we could understand, to live near us. He brought with him the cover +of a House, with several other Materials for building one. We intend to +requite the confidence this man seems to put in us by treating him with +all imaginable kindness. Got on shore some Empty Casks, which we placed +in a double row along the Bank of the River, by way of a breast work on +that side.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 20th. Wind at South-East and Squally, with rain. All hands +employ'd on shore, and nothing remarkable, excepting a Hog weighing about +90 pound was brought alongside the Ship for Sale, but those who brought +it would not part with it for anything we could offer them but a +Carpenter's broad axe, and this was what we could not part with; they +carried it away. Thus we see those very People who but 2 years ago +prefer'd a spike Nail to an Axe of any Sort, have so far learnt the use +of them that they will not part with a Pig of 10 or 12 pounds weight for +anything under a Hatchet, and even those of an inferior or small sort are +of no great esteem with them, and small Nails such as 10 penny, 20 penny, +or any under 40 penny, are of no value at all; but beads, particularly +white cut glass beads, are much valued by them. Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander lays ashore to-night for the first time, their Markee's being +set up within the Walls of the Fort and fit for their reception.</p> + +<p>Friday, 21st. Got the Copper Oven ashore and fixed it in the bank of the +breastwork. Yesterday, as Mr. Green and Dr. Monkhouse were taking a walk, +they happened to meet with the Body of the Man we had shott, as the +Natives made them fully understand; the manner in which the body was +interred being a little extraordinary. I went to-day, with some others, +to see it. Close by the House wherein he resided when living was built a +small shed, but whether for the purpose or no I cannot say, for it was in +all respects like some of the Sheds or Houses they live in. This shed was +about 14 or 16 feet long, 10 or 12 broad, and of a proportionable height. +One end was wholy open, the other end and two sides was partly inclosed +with a kind of wicker'd work. In this Shed lay the Corps, upon a Bier or +frame of wood, with a matted bottom, like a Cott frame used at Sea, and +Supported by 4 Posts about 5 feet from the Ground. The body was cover'd +with a Matt, and over that a white Cloth; alongside of the Body lay a +wooden Club, one of their Weapons of War. The Head of the Corps lay next +the close end of the Shed, and at this end lay 2 Cocoa Nutt Shells, such +as they sometimes use to carry water in; at the other end of the Shed was +a Bunch of Green leaves, with some dry'd twigs tied all together and +stuck in the Ground, and a stone lying by them as big as a Cocoa Nutt. +Near to these lay a young Plaintain Tree, such as they use as Emblems of +Peace, and by it lay a stone Axe. At the open end of the Shed was stuck +upwright in the ground the Stem of a Plaintain Tree about 5 feet high, on +the Top of which stood a Cocoa Nutt shell full of fresh water, and on the +side of the post hung a small Bag, wherein was a few pieces of Bread +Fruit roasted ready for eating. Some of the pieces were fresh and others +Stale. The Natives did not seem to like that we should go near the body, +and stood at a little distance themselves while we examin'd these +matters, and appeared to be pleased when we came away. It certainly was +no very agreeable place, for it stunk intollerably, and yet it was not +above 10 yards from the Huts wherein several of the living resided. The +first day we landed we saw the Skeleton of a human being laying in this +manner under a shade that was just big enough to cover it, and some days +after that, when some of the Gentlemen went with a design to examine it +more narrowly, it was gone. It was at this time thought that this manner +of interring their Dead was not common to all ranks of People, as this +was the first we had seen Except the Skeleton just mentioned; but various +were the opinions concerning the Provisions, etc., laid about the Dead. +Upon the whole, it should seem that these people not only believe in a +Supreem being, but in a future state also, and this must be meant either +as an Offering to some Deitie or for the use of the Dead in the other +world; but this latter is not very probable, as there appeared to be no +Priest Craft in the thing, for whatever Provisions were put there it +appeared very plain to us that there it remain'd until it consumed away +of itself. It is most likely that we shall see more of this before we +leave the Island, but if it is a Religious ceremony we may not be able to +understand it, for the Misteries of most Religions are very Dark and not +easily understood, even by those who profess them.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22nd, to Thursday, 27th. Nothing worthy of Note Hapned. The +people were Continually at work upon the Fort,* (* Near the site of this +Fort is still a Tamarind Tree, planted by Captain Cook. All visitors to +Tahiti go to see "Cook's Tamarind.") and the Natives were so far +reconciled to us that they rather assisted us than not. This day we +mounted 6 Swivels at the Fort, which was now nearly finished. This struck +the Natives with some fear, and some fishermen who lived upon the point +moved farther off, and old Owhaa told us by signs that after 4 days we +should fire Great Guns from the Ship. There were some other Circumstances +co-operated with this man's prophecy, whether an opinion hath prevailed +amongst them that after that time we intend to fire upon them, or that +they intend to Attack us, we know not: the first we do not intend unless +the latter takes place, which is highly improbable.</p> + +<p>Friday, 28th. This morning a great number of the natives came to us in +their Canoes from differant parts of the Island, several of whom we had +not seen before. One of these was the Woman called by the Dolphins the +Queen of this Island; she first went to Mr. Banks's tent at the fort, +where she was not known, till the Master, happening to go ashore, who +knew her, and brought her on board with 2 Men and several Women, who +seem'd to be all of her family. I made them all some presents or other, +but to Oberiea (for that is this Woman's name) I gave several things, in +return for which, as soon as I went on shore with her, she gave me a Hog +and several Bunches of plaintains. These she caused to be carried from +her Canoes up to the Fort in a kind of Procession, she and I bringing up +the rear. This Woman is about 40 years of Age, and, like most of the +other Women, very Masculine. She is head or chief of her own family or +Tribe, but to all appearance hath no Authority over the rest of the +Inhabitants, whatever she might have when the Dolphin was here. Hercules, +whose real Name is Tootaha, is, to all appearance, the Chief Man of the +Island, and hath generally visited us twice a week since we have been +here, and came always attended by a number of Canoes and people; and at +those times we were sure to have a supply, more or less, of everything +the Island afforded, both from himself and from those that came with him, +and it is a Chance thing that we get a Hog at any other time. He was with +us at this Time, and did not appear very well pleased at the Notice we +took of Oberiea.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. This day got the 4 guns out of the Hold, and Mounted 2 of +them on the Quarter Deck and the other 2 in the Fort on the Bank of the +River.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. This being the day that Owhaa told us that we should fire +our Guns, no one of us went from the Fort; however, the day passed over +without any Visible alteration in the behaviour of any one of the +Natives.</p> + +<p>[May 1769.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 1st May. This morning Tootaha came on board the Ship, and was +very Desireous of seeing into every Chest and Drawer that was in the +Cabin. I satisfied his curiosity so far as to open most of those that +belong'd to me. He saw several things that he took a fancy to, and +collected them together; but at last he Cast his eyes upon the Adze I had +from Mr. Stephens* (* The Secretary of the Admiralty.) that was made in +imitation of one of their Stone Adzes or Axes.* (* The stone adzes of +Tahiti were of excellent workmanship.) The Moment he lays his hands upon +it he of his own accord put away everything he had got before, and ask'd +me if I would give him that, which I very readily did, and he went away +without asking for any one thing more, which I by experience knew was a +sure sign that he was well pleased with what he had got.</p> + +<p>This day one of the Natives, who appeared to be a Chief, dined with us, +as he had done some days before; but then there were always some Women +present, and one or another of them put the Victuals into his Mouth, but +this day there hapned to be none to Perform that Office. When he was +help'd to victuals and desir'd to eat, he sat in the Chair like a +Statute, without once attempting to put a Morsel to his mouth, and would +certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the Servants had not fed +him. We have often found the women very officious in feeding us, from +which it would seem that it is the Custom on some occasions for them to +feed the Chiefs. However, this is the only instance of that kind we have +seen, or that they could not help themselves as well as any of us.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we set up the Observatory and took the Astronomical +Quadrant ashore for the first time, together with some other Instruments, +the fort being now finished and made as Tenantable as the time, Nature, +and situation of the Ground and Materials we had to work upon would admit +of. The North and South parts consisted of a Bank of Earth 4 1/2 feet +high on the inside, and a Ditch without, 10 feet broad and 6 feet deep; +on the West side facing the Bay a Bank of Earth 4 feet high, and +Palisades upon that, but no Ditch, the works being at high-water mark. On +the East side upon the Bank of the river was placed a double row of +Casks, and, as this was the weakest side, the 2 four Pounders were +planted there, and the whole was defended, beside these 2 Guns, with 6 +Swivels, and generally about 45 Men with small Arms, including the +Officers and Gentlemen who resided ashore. I now thought myself perfectly +secure from anything these people would attempt.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 2nd. This morning, about 9 o'Clock, when Mr. Green and I went to +set up the Quadrant, it was not to be found. It had never been taken out +of the Packing Case (which was about 18 Inches square) since it came from +Mr. Bird, the Maker; and the whole was pretty heavy, so that it was a +matter of Astonishment to us all how it could be taken away, as a +Centinal stood the whole night within 5 Yards of the door of the Tent, +where it was put, together with several other Instruments; but none of +them was missing but this. However, it was not long before we got +information that one of the Natives had taken it away and carried it to +the Eastward. Immediately a resolution was taken to detain all the large +Canoes that were in the Bay, and to seize upon Tootaha and some others of +the principal people, and keep them in Custody until the Quadrant was +produced; but this last we did not think proper immediately to put in +Execution, as we had only Oberiea in our power, and the detaining of her +by force would have alarm'd all the rest. In the meantime, Mr. Banks (who +is always very alert upon all occasions wherein the Natives are +concern'd) and Mr. Green went into the Woods to enquire of Toobouratomita +which way and where the Quadrant was gone. I very soon was inform'd that +these 3 was gone to the Eastward in quest of it, and some time after I +followed myself with a small party of Men; but before I went away I gave +orders that if Tootaha came either to the Ship or the Fort he was not to +be detain'd, for I found he had no hand in taking away the Quadrant, and +that there was almost a Certainty of getting it again. I met Mr. Banks +and Mr. Green about 4 miles from the Fort, returning with the Quadrant. +This was about Sun set, and we all got back to the Fort about 8 o'Clock, +where I found Tootaha in Custody, and a number of the Natives crowding +about the Gate of the Fort. My going into the Woods with a party of Arm'd +men so alarmed the Natives that in the evening they began to move off +with their Effects, and a Double Canoe putting off from the Bottom of the +Bay was ohserv'd by the Ship, and a Boat sent after her. In this Canoe +hapned to be Tootaha, and as soon as our Boat came up with her, he and +all the people that were in the Canoe jump'd overboard, and he only was +taken up and brought on board the Ship, together with the Canoe; the rest +were permitted to swim to the Shore. From the Ship Tootaha was sent to +the Fort, where Mr. Hicks thought proper to detain him until I return'd. +The Scene between Toobouratomita and Tootaha, when the former came into +the Fort and found the latter in Custody, was really moving. They wept +over each other for some time. As for Tootaha, he was so far prepossessed +with the thought that he was to be kill'd that he could not be made +sencible to the Contrary till he was carried out of the Fort to the +people, many of whom Expressed their joy by embracing him; and, after +all, he would not go away until he had given us two Hogs, notwithstanding +we did all in our power to hinder him, for it is very certain that the +Treatment he had meet with from us did not merit such a reward. However, +we had it in our power to make him a present of equal value whenever we +pleased.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3rd. Very early this morning Tootaha sent for the Canoe we had +detained yesterday, and in the Afternoon sent a man for an Axe and a +Shirt in return for the Hogs he gave us last night; but as this man told +us that Tootaha would not come near us himself in less than 10 days, we +thought proper not to send them, to try if he would not come himself for +them sooner.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. Some people came to the Fort to-day from York Island; one +of them gave us an account of 22 Islands lying in this Neighbourhood. Set +up the 2 Clocks; one in the Tent wherein Mr. Green and I lay, and the +other in the Observatory. This evening Tootaha sent a man again for the +Axe and Shirt, and we sent him word by the same man that Mr. Banks and I +would come and see him to-morrow and bring them along with us, for it now +became necessary that we should take some steps to reconcile this man to +us in order to procure a sufficient supply of Bread fruit, and Cocoa +Nuts, which we have not had for these 2 days past, owing, as we +apprehend, to Tootaha not being reconciled to us, or otherwise the people +take this method to shew their resentment of the Treatment their Chief +meet with.</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. Early this morning Tootaha sent some of his people to put us +in mind of our promise, and these seem'd very uneasy until we set out, +which Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself did about 10 o'clock in the +Pinnace, having one of these men with us. As soon as we came to Appara, +the place where Tootaha resided, we saw a great number of People at the +landing place near his House; one among them, who had a large Turban +about his Head, and a long white stick in his Hand, drove the others from +the landing place by beating them with his Stick, and throwing stones at +them, and at the same time directed us whereabouts to land. After we had +landed he conducted us to the Chief, but in this there was no order, +everyone crowded upon us crying out "Tyo Tootaha," this Tootaha was our +Friend. We found the chief setting in the shade under a large Tree, with +a Circle of old men round him; he made us set down by him, and +immediately asked for the Axe. I then gave him one, together with an +upper Garment made of Broad Cloth after their Fashion, and a Shirt. The +Garment he put on, but the Shirt he gave to the man who first received us +at landing, who was now seated by us, and the Chief seemed desirous that +we should take particular notice of him. By that Time Obaria, and several +other women whom we knew, came and sat down by us. Tootaha did not stay +long before he went away, as we thought to show himself to the people in +his new Dress. He was not gone long before he return'd and took his seat +again for a few minutes, then went away again, as we was told, to order +something to be got for us to Eat, and at this time we gladly would have +gone too, being almost Suffocated with the Crowd that was about us. +However, here we remained for about 10 Minutes longer, when word was +brought us that the Chief wanted us. We were then conducted to our own +Boat, where we found him setting alone under the Awning. He made signs to +us to come to him, which we did, and as many with us as the Boat would +hold. Here he ordered some Bread fruit and Cocoa Nut to be brought, of +both of which we tasted.</p> + +<p>After we had set here sometime, a Message was brought to the Chief, who +immediately went out of the Boat, and we was desired to follow, and was +conducted to a large Aria or Court Yard on one side of his House, where +we were entertained with Public wrestling. Tootaha seated himself at one +end of the place, and several of his Principal men sat round him in a +Semicircle. We were desir'd to sit down here likewise, but we rather +chose to walk about. Everything being now ready, several men entered the +Theater, 8, 10, or 12, sometimes more. These walked about in a Stooping +Poster, with their left hand upon their right breast, and with their +Right hand Open struck with a smack their left Arm and fore-arm. In this +manner they walked about until one Challenged another, which was done by +motion and jesture, without speaking one word. The 2 Antagonists would +then meet and endeavour to seize each other by the thighs, but if that +fail'd they would seize each other by the Hair of the Head or wherever +they could, and then Wrestle together until by main Strength the one or +the other was thrown on his back. This was always (Except once) followed +by three Huzzas from some old men who sat in the House, and at the same +time another Company of men would dance for about a Minute, the Wrestlers +all the time continuing their game without taking the least notice of +anything else. The only dexterity the Wrestlers seemed to make use of was +in first seizing each other, for after they had closed it was all decided +by Main strength. It would sometimes happen that neither the one nor the +other could throw his Antagonist; in this Case they would either part by +mutual consent or were parted by others. The Conqueror never exulted over +the Conquer'd, neither did the Conquer'd ever repine at his ill luck, but +the whole was carried on with great good Humour. There were present, +Young and old, near 500 People. The women do not seem to partake of this +diversion, only some few of the Principal ones were present, and that +appeared to be owing to us being there.</p> + +<p>After this was over we were given to understand that we were to go to +Dinner, and were desired to follow Tootaha, who led us into our own Boat, +and soon after came a small Pig ready roasted, with some Bread Fruit and +Cocoa Nuts. Here we thought we were to have dined, but Tootaha, after +waiting about 10 Minutes, made signs to us to put off the Boat and go a +Board, which we did, and bring him and Toobouratomida along with us. As +soon as we got on board we all dined on the Cheer the Chief had provided. +We soon found the good effects of having made friends with this man, for +it was no sooner known to the Natives that he was on board the Ship than +they brought Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, etc., to the Fort.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th; Sunday, 7th. Nothing remarkable, only that the Natives +supply us with as much bread fruits and Cocoa Nuts as we can destroy.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Early this morning the Master went to the Eastward in the +Pinnace to try if he could procure some Hogs and Fowls from that Quarter; +but he return'd in the evening without success. He saw but very few, and +those the inhabitants pretended belonged to Tootaha; so great is this +man's influence or authority over them that they dare part with nothing +without his Consent, or otherwise they use his Name to Excuse themselves +from parting with the few they have, for it is very certain these things +are in no great plenty with them.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th; Wednesday, 10th; Thursday, 11th. Nothing remarkable hapned +for these three days. Oberiea, the Dolphin's queen, made us a Visit for +the first time since the Quadrant was Stolen. She introduced herself with +a Small Pig, for which she had a Hatchet, and as soon as she got it she +Lugg'd out a Broken Axe, and several pieces of Old Iron. These, I +believe, she must have had from the Dolphin; the Axe she wanted to be +mended, and Axes made of the old iron. I obliged her in the first, but +excused myself in the latter: since the Natives had seen the Forge at +work they have frequently brought pieces of Iron to be made into one sort +of Tool or other, which hath generally been done whenever it did not +hinder our own work--being willing to Oblige them in everything in my +power. These Pieces of old Iron the Natives must have got from the +Dolphin, as we know of no other Ship being here;* (* M. de Bougainville, +in the French ships La Boudeuse and L'Etoile, had visited Tahiti the year +before, after its discovery by the Dolphin. He was unfortunate in his +choice of anchorage, and his ships lost anchors and got into various +difficulties. The crews were also much afflicted with scurvy.) and very +probable some from us, for there is no species of Theft they will not +commit to get this Article, and I may say the same of the common Seamen +when in these parts.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. Cloudy weather with Showers of rain. This morning a Man and +2 Young Women, with some others, came to the Fort, whom we had not seen +before, and as their manner of introducing themselves was a little +uncommon, I shall insert it. Mr. Banks was as usual at the gate of the +Fort trading with the people, when he was told that some Strangers were +coming, and therefore stood to receive them. The Company had with them +about a Dozen young Plantain Trees, and some other small Plants, these +they laid down about 20 feet from Mr. Banks; the people then made a Lane +between him and them. When this was done the Man (who appeared to be only +a Servant to the two Women) brought the young Plantains singly, together +with some of the other plants, and gave them to Mr. Banks, and at the +delivery of each pronounced a Short sentence which we understood not. +After he had thus disposed of all his plantain trees, he took several +pieces of Cloth and spread them on the ground. One of the Young women +then stepp'd upon the Cloth, and with as much innocency as one could +possibly conceive, exposed herself, entirely naked, from the waist +downwards; in this manner she turn'd herself once or twice round, I am +not certain which, then stepped off the cloth, and dropp'd down her +Cloaths. More Cloth was then spread upon the former, and she again +performed the same Ceremony. The Cloth was then rowled up and given to +Mr. Banks, and the two Young women went and Embraced him, which ended the +Ceremony.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. Nothing worthy of Note hapned during the day; in the +Night one of the Natives attempted to get into the Fort by Climbing over +the Wall, but, being discovered by the Centinel, he made off. The Iron +and Iron Tools daily in use at the Armourer's Forge are Temptations that +these people cannot possibly withstand.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. This day we performed divine Service in one of the Tents in +the fort, where several of the Natives attended and behaved with great +decency the whole time. This day closed with an odd sceen at the Gate of +the Fort, where a young Fellow above 6 feet high made love to a little +Girl about 10 or 12 years of Age publickly before several of our people +and a number of the Natives. What makes me mention this is because it +appear'd to be done according to Custom, for there were several women +present, particularly Obariea and several others of the better sort, and +these were so far from showing the least disapprobation that they +instructed the Girl how she should Act her part, who, young as she was, +did not seem to want it.</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. Winds variable and cloudy weather. Last Night one of our +Water Casks was taken away from the outside of the Fort, where they stood +full of water. In the morning there was not one of the Natives but what +knew it was gone; yet, Contrary to what we had always met with on these +Occasions, not one of them would give us any information about it, and I +thought it of too little Consequence to take any methods to Oblige them. +In the evening Toobouratomida and his Wife, and a Man belonging to +Tootaha, would needs lay all Night by the Casks to prevent any more from +being taken away; but, as we had placed a Centinel there, this care of +theirs became unnecessary, and they were prevailed upon to go home; but +before they went away they made signs to the Centinel to keep his Eyes +open. From this it should seem that they knew that an attempt would be +made in the night to take away more, which would have been done had not +the Centinel prevented it.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 16th. Winds Westerly. The morning cloudy, with heavy showers of +rain; the Remainder of the day fair weather. From this day nothing +remarkable hapned until</p> + +<p>Monday, 22nd, which was usher'd in with thick Cloudy weather, and +Excessive hard Showers of rain and very much Thunder and Lightning, which +Continued the Greater part of the day.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23rd. Wind Southerly and fair weather in the Forenoon, but in +the Afternoon Showers. We have had a Scarcity of all sorts of Fruit for +these 2 days past, which we immagine to be owing to the Wet weather.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24th. Fine clear weather all this day. Having found the Long +boat Leakey for these few days past, we hauld her ashore to-day to stop +the leakes, when, to our great surprise, we found her bottom so much +Eaten by the Worms that it was necessary to give her a new one, and all +the Carpenters were immediately set to work upon her.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25th. Most part of these 24 hours Cloudy, with frequent Showers +of Rain.</p> + +<p>Friday, 26th. Some flying showers again. This morning we hauled the +pinnace a Shore to examine her bottom, and had the Satisfaction to find +that not one worm had touched it, notwithstanding she hath been in the +water nearly as long as the Long Boat. This must be owing to the White +Lead with which her bottom is painted, the Long boats being paid with +Varnish of Pine, for no other reason can be assign'd why the one should +be preserved and the other destroy'd, when they are both built on the +Same sort of Wood and have been in equal use. From this Circumstance +alone the Bottom of all Boats sent into Countrys where these worms are +ought to be painted with White Lead, and the Ships supply'd with a good +stock in order to give them a New Coat whenever it's necessary. By this +means they would be preserved free from these destructive Vermin. The +Long boat's Bottom being so much destroy'd appear'd a little +extraordinary, as the Dolphin's Launch was in the Water at this very +place full as long, and no such thing happened to her, as the Officers +that were in the Dolphin say.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 27th. Winds variable and fair weather.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 28th. Winds Southerly and clear weather. This morning myself, Mr. +Banks, and Dr. Solander set out in the Pinnace to pay Tootaha a Visit, +who had moved from Apparra to the South-West part of the island. What +induced us to make him this visit was a Message we had received from him +some days ago importing that if we would go to him he would give us +several Hogs. We had no great faith in this, yet we were resolved to try, +and set out accordingly. It was Night before we reached the place where +he was, and, as we had left the Boat about half-way behind us, we were +obliged to take up our Quarters with him for the Night. The Chief +received us in a Friendly manner, and a Pig was ordered to be killed and +dressed for Supper; but we saved his Life for the present, thinking it +would do us more service in another place, and we supped on Fruit and +what else we could get. Here was, along with the Chief, Obariea and many +more that we knowd. They all seem'd to be travellers like ourselves, for +neither the Canoes they had along with them, nor the Houses where they +were, were sufficient to contain the one half of them. We were in all Six +of us, and after supper began to look out for Lodgings. Mr. Banks went to +one place, Dr. Solander to another, while I and the other 3 went to a +third. We all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as +possible, knowing very well what sort of People we were among; yet, +notwithstanding all the care we took, before 12 o'clock the most of us +had lost something or other. For my own part I had my Stockings taken +from under my head, and yet I am certain that I was not a Sleep the whole +time. Obariea took charge of Mr. Banks's things, and yet they were stol'n +from her, as she pretended. Tootaha was acquainted with what had hapned, +I believe by Obariea herself, and both him and her made some stir about +it; but this was all meer shew, and ended in nothing. A little time after +this Tootaha came to the Hutt where I and those that were with me lay, +and entertain'd us with a Consort of Musick consisting of 3 Drums, 4 +Flutes, and Singing. This lasted about an Hour, and then they retir'd. +The Music and Singing was so much of a piece that I was very glad when it +was over. We stay'd with them till near noon the next day in hopes of +getting some of our things again, and likewise some Hogs; but we were at +last obliged to come away with the one we had saved out of the Fire last +Night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the Ship in a Day +or two with more, and bring with him the things that are lost, a promise +we had no reason to expect he would fulfill. Thus ended our Visit, and we +got to the Fort late in the evening.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 30th. We are now very buisey in preparing our Instruments, etc., +for the Observations, and Instructing such Gentlemen in the use of them, +as I intend to send to other parts to observe, for fear we should fail +here.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 31st. Late this Evening the Carpenters finished the Long boat.</p> + +<p>[June 1769.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, June 1st. This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long boat to +York Island* (* Eimeo, westward of, and near to Tahiti.) with Dr. +Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks) to Observe +the Transit of Venus, Mr. Green having furnished them with Instruments +for that purpose. Mr. Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went +along with them.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd. Very early this morning Lieutenant Hicks, Mr. Clark, Mr. +Pickersgill and Mr. Saunders went away in the Pinnace to the Eastward, +with orders to fix upon some Convenient situation upon this Island, and +there to Observe the Transit of Venus, they being likewise provided with +Instruments for that purpose.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3rd. This day proved as favourable to our purpose as we could +wish. Not a Cloud was to be seen the whole day, and the Air was perfectly +Clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in observing the +whole of the Passage of the planet Venus over the Sun's Disk. We very +distinctly saw an Atmosphere or Dusky shade round the body of the planet, +which very much disturbed the times of the Contact, particularly the two +internal ones. Dr. Solander observed as well as Mr. Green and myself, and +we differ'd from one another in Observing the times of the Contact much +more than could be expected. Mr. Green's Telescope and mine where of the +same Magnifying power, but that of the Doctor was greater than ours. It +was nearly calm the whole day, and the Thermometer Exposed to the Sun +about the Middle of the day rose to a degree of heat we have not before +met with.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-06"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-06.jpg"></p> +<h4>FACSIMILE OF SATURDAY, 3RD JUNE, 1769.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Sunday, 4th. Punished Archd. Wolf with 2 Dozen lashes for Theft, having +broken into one of the Storerooms and stol'n from thence a large quantity +of Spike Nails; some few of them where found upon him. This evening the +Gentlemen that were sent to observe the Transit of Venus, return'd with +success; those that were sent to York Island were well received by the +Natives. That Island appear'd to them not to be very fruitful.</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. Got some of the Bread ashore out of the Bread Room to dry +and Clean. Yesterday being His Majesty's birthday, we kept it to-day and +had several of the Chiefs to dine with us.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. This day and for some days past we have been informd by +several of the Natives that about 10 or 15 months ago Two Ships touched +at this Island and stayed 10 days in a Harbour to the Eastward, called +Ohidea, the Commander's name was Tootteraso,* (* M. de Bougainville, who +laid at Hitiaa from April 6th to April 16th, 1768.)--so at least the +Natives call him--and that one of the Natives, Brother to the Chief of +Ohidea, went away with him. They likewise say these ships brought the +venerial distemper to this Island, where it is now as Common as in any +part of the world, and which the people bear with as little concern as if +they have been accustom'd to it for Ages past. We had not been here many +days before some of our People got this disease, and as no such thing +hapned to any of the Dolphin's people while she was here, that I ever +heard of, I had reason (notwithstanding the improbability of the thing) +to think that we had brought it along with us, which gave me no small +uneasiness, and did all in my power to prevent its progress, but all I +could do was to little purpose, as I was obliged to have the most part of +the Ship's Company ashore every day to work upon the Fort, and a Strong +Guard every Night; and the Women were so very liberal with their +favours--or else Nails, Shirts, etc., were temptations that they could +not withstand, that this distemper very soon spread itself over the +greatest part of the Ship's company, but now I have the satisfaction to +find that the Natives all agree that we did not bring it here.</p> + +<p>We have several times seen Iron tools and other Articles with these +people that we suspected came not from the Dolphin, and these they now +say they had from these two Ships.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th; Thursday, 8th; Friday, 9th. These three days we have been +employ'd in Careening both sides of the Ship, and paying them with Pitch +and Brimstone. We found her Bottom in good order, and that the worm had +not got into it.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. Wind Variable, with very much rain all day and last +night.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. Cloudy, with rain last night and this morning; the +remainder of the day fair weather. This day Mr. Banks and I took +Toobouratomita on board the Ship and shew'd him the print containing the +Colours worne by the ships of Diffrent Nations, and very soon made him +understand that we wanted to know which of them was worn by the ships +that were at Ohidea. He at once pitched upon the Spanish Flag and would +by no means admit of any other; this, together with several Articles we +have lately seen amongst these people, such as Jackets, Shirts, etc., +usually worn by Spanish Seamen, proves beyond doubt that they must have +been Ships of that Nation, and come from some Port on the Coast of South +America.* (* This was of course a mistake, as the ships were French.)</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. Yesterday Complaint was made to me by some of the Natives +that John Thurman and James Nicholson, Seamen, had taken by force from +them several Bows and Arrows and plaited Hair, and the fact being proved +upon them they were this day punished with 2 dozen lashes each.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. Some Showers of rain last night, but fair weather the most +part of the day. Tootaha, whom we have not seen for some time past, paid +us a Visit to-Day. He brought with him a Hog and some Bread Fruit, for +which he was well paid.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 14th. Between 2 and 4 o'clock this morning, one of the Natives +stole out of the Fort an Iron rake, made use of for the Oven. It hapned +to be set up against the Wall, and by that means was Visible from the +outside, and had been seen by them in the evening, as a man had been seen +lurking about the Fort some Hours before the thing was Missed. I was +informed by some others of the Natives that he watch'd an opportunity +when the Centinel's back was turned, he hooked it with a long crooked +stick, and haled it over the Wall. When I came to be informed of this +theft in the Morning I resolved to recover it by some Means or other, and +accordingly went and took possession of all the Canoes of any value I +could meet with, and brought them into the River behind the Fort to the +number of 22, and told the Natives then present (most of them being the +owners of the Canoes) that unless the principal things they had stol'n +from us were restored I would burn them every one: not that I ever +intended to put this in execution, and yet I was very much displeased +with them, as they were daily committing, or attempting to commit, one +theft or other, when at the same time--contrary to the opinion of +everybody, I would not suffer them to be fir'd upon, for this would have +been putting it in the power of the Centinels to have fir'd upon them +upon the most slitest occasions, as I had before experienced. And I have +a great Objection to firing with powder only amongst People who know not +the difference, for by this they would learn to despise fire Arms and +think their own Arms superior, and if ever such an Opinion prevailed they +would certainly attack you, the Event of which might prove as +unfavourable to you as them. About Noon the rake was restored us, when +they wanted to have their Canoes again; but now, as I had them in my +possession, I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by +restoring what they had stol'n from us before. The Principal things which +we had lost was the Marine Musquet, a pair of Pistols belonging to Mr. +Banks, a Sword belonging to one of the Petty Officers, and a Water Cask, +with some other Articles not worth mentioning. Some said that these +things were not in the Island, others that Tootaha had them, and those of +Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obariea, and I believe the whole was +between these two persons.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. We have been employed for some Days past in overhauling +all the Sea Provisions, and stowing such as we found in a State of decay +to hand, in order to be first expended; but having the people divided +between the Ship and the Shore, this work, as well as refitting the Ship, +goes on but slowly.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th; Saturday, 17th. Variable winds, with Showers of rain and +Cloudy weather.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 18th. Variable winds and Clear weather. This Night was observed +the Moon totally Eclipsed.</p> + +<p>Monday, 19th. Punished James Tunley with 12 lashes for taking Rum out of +the Cask on the Quarter Deck.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 20th. Got all the Powder aShore to Air, all of which we found in +a bad Condition, and the Gunner informs me that it was very little better +when it came first on board. Last Night Obariea made us a visit, whom we +have not seen for some time. We were told of her coming, and that she +would bring with her some of the Stol'n things, which we gave Credit to +because we know'd several of them were in her possession; but we were +surprised to find this Woman put herself wholy in our power, and not +bring with her one Article of what we had lost. The Excuse she made was +that her Gallant, a man that used to be along with her, did Steal them, +and she had beat him and turned him away, but she was so Sencible of her +own Guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear, and yet she had +resolution Enough to insist upon Sleeping in Mr. Banks's Tent all Night, +and was with difficulty prevailed upon to go to her canoe, altho no one +took the least notice of her. In the morning she brought her Canoe, with +everything she had, to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not +help admiring her for her Courage and the Confidence she seem'd to place +in us, and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into +favour, and except the Present she had brought us, which consisted of a +Hog, a Dog, some Bread Fruit and Plantains.</p> + +<p>We refused to Except of the Dog, as being an Animal we had no use for; at +which she seemed a little surprised, and told us it was very good eating, +and we very soon had an opportunity to find that it was so, for Mr. +Banks, having bought a Basket of Fruit in which was the Thigh of a Dog +ready dressed, of this several of us tasted, and found that it was Meat +not to be despised, and therefore took Obariea's Dog and had him +immediately dressed by some of the Natives in the following manner: They +first made a hole in the Ground about a foot Deep, in which they made a +fire and heated some small Stones. While this was doing the Dog was +strangled and the hair got off by laying him frequently on the fire, and +as clean as if it had been scalded off with hot water. His Intrails was +taken out, and the whole washed Clean, and as soon as the Stones and Hole +was sufficiently heated the fire was put out and part of the Stones were +left in the bottom of the hole. Upon these stones were laid green leafs, +and upon them the Dog, together with the Intrails, these were likewise +covered with leaves, and over them hot stones; and then the hole was +close cover'd with mould. After he had laid here about 4 Hours, the Oven +(for so I must call it) was op'ned, and the dog taken out, whole and well +done, and it was the Opinion of every one who tasted it that they never +eat sweater Meat, therefore we resolved for the future never to dispise +Dog's flesh. It is in this manner that the Natives dress and Bake all +their Victuals that require it--Flesh, fish, and Fruit. I now gave over +all thoughts of recovering any of the things the Natives had stol'n from +us, and therefore intend to give them up their Canoes whenever they apply +for them.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-07"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-07.jpg"></p> +<h4>CHART OF THE ISLAND OTAHEITE, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769. REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Wednesday, 21st. Employed drying the Powder, or getting on board Wood, +Water, etc. Confined Robert Anderson, Seaman, for refusing to obey the +orders of the Mate when at work in the Hold. This morning a Chief, whose +Name is Oamo, and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort. There +came with him a Boy about 7 Years of Age and a Young Woman of about 18 or +20. At the Time of their coming Obariea and several others were in the +fort. They went out to meet them, having first uncovered their Heads and +Bodies as low as their Waists; and the same thing was done by all those +that were on the outside of the Fort. As we looked upon this as a +Ceremonial respect, and had not seen it paid to any one before, we +thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wondered to +see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over. The Young +woman that came along with him could not be prevailed upon to come into +the Fort, and the Boy was Carried upon a Man's back, altho' he was as +able to walk as the Man who carried him. This Lead us to inquire who they +were; and we was informed that the Boy was Heir Apparent to the +Sovereignty of the Island, and the Young Woman was his Sister, and as +such the respect was paid them which was due to no one else except the +Arreedehi, which was not Tootaha, from what we could learn, but some +other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is +no Friend of ours, and therefore will not come near us. The Young Boy +above mentioned is son to Oamo by Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at +this time live together as Man and Wife, he not being able to endure with +her troublesome disposition. I mention this because it shows that +seperation in the Marriage state is not unknown to these people.* (* See +note Notes on Tahiti below.)</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22nd. This morning I released Robert Anderson from Confinement +at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for +the future.</p> + +<p>Friday, 23rd. This morning Emanuel Parreyra, a Portugue, was Missing, and +I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here. +It was not long before I was informed that he was at Apparra with +Tootaha. The Man who gave us this information was one of Tootaha's +Servants. He was Offer'd a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring +him to us. This was perhaps the very thing he came for, for he +immediately set out and return'd with the Man in the Evening. The man +said in his defence that as he was going to the Boat to go on board last +night, he was taken away by force by 3 Men, and upon enquiring farther +into this matter I found it to be so, and that Tootaha wanted to have +kept him, only that he was perswaided to the contrary, or perhaps he +thought that the Hatchet he would get by returning him would do him more +service than the Man.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. Nothing remarkable.</p> + +<p>[Tahiti: Expedition round Island.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. Very early this morning I set out in the pinnace, +accompanied by Mr. Banks, with an intent to make the Circuit of the +Island in order to Examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours +thereof. We took our rout to the Eastward, and this night reached the +Isthmus, which is a low neck of Land running across the Island, which +divides it into two districts or Governments wholly independent of each +other as we was informed. The first thing we saw which struck our +attention in this day's rout was a small Pig that had not been roasted +above a Day or 2 laid upon one of their Altars near to a place where lay +the Body or Bones of a Dead Person. This Pig must have been put their as +an offering to their God, but on what account we know not. The Coast from +Royal Bay trends East by South and East-South-East 10 miles South by East +and South 11 miles to the Isthmus. In the first direction the Shore is +mostly open to the Sea, but in the last it is cover'd by reefs of rocks; +these forms several good Harbours, wherein are safe Anchorage for +Shipping in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathoms, with other Conveniences. It was +in one of these Harbours the Spanish Ships before mentioned lay; the +Natives shew'd us the place where they Pitched their Tent and the Brook +they water'd at, otherways there was not the least signs of Shipping +having been there.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th. Winds Easterly and fine weather. It was late last night +before we reached the Isthmus, and all the Observations I could make this +morning was that it appeared to be a Marshey flatt of about 2 miles in +Extent aCross which the Natives Haul their Canoes partly by land and +partly by water. From the Isthmus the land trends East Southerly near 3 +Leagues, to the South-East point of the Great Bay which lies before the +Isthmus. On the west side of this point is a Bay called Ohitepepa, which +is in many respects similar to Royal Bay, and is situated in every bit as +fertile and populous part of the Island. There are other places formed by +the Reefs that lay along the Shore between this and the Isthmus, where +Shipping can lay in perfect security. The Land then trends South-East and +South to the South-East part of the Island, which is near 3 Leagues, and +covered all the way by a Reef of Rocks, but no Harbour. We took up our +Quarters at the East part of the Island, being conducted thither by a +Young Chief we had Often seen on board the Ship, and the next morning +proceeded round the South-East point of the Island, part of which is not +cover'd by any reef, but lies wholy open to the Sea and here the Hills +rise directly from the Shore. At the Southernmost part of the Island the +Shore is again cover'd by a Reef, and there forms a very good Harbour, +and the land about it very fertile. At this place we saw a Goose and a +Turkey left at Royal Bay by the Dolphin; they were in possession of a +Chief who came along with us in the Boat, and remain'd with us the +remainder of the day, and conducted us over the Shoals we here meet with; +and for this piece of service we lent him a Cloak to Sleep in in the +night, but we had not been laid down above 10 minutes before he thought +proper to move off with it, but both Mr. Banks and I pursued him so close +that he was obliged to relinquish his prize, and we saw no more of him. +When we returned to our Lodging we found the House, in which were not +less than 2 or 300 people when we went away, intirely deserted, so that +we had one of the Largest and best houses on the Island wholy to +ourselves; but when they found that we meant them no harm the Chief and +his Wife with some others came and Slept by us the remainder of the +night. This place is situated on the South-West side of Tiarreboo,* (* +Taiarapu.) the South-East district of the Island, and about 5 miles +South-East from the Isthmus. Here is a large, safe, and Commodious +Harbour, inferior to none on the whole Island, and the land about it Rich +in Produce. We found that the people of this district had had little or +no communication with us, yet we was everywhere well received by them. We +found all this part of the Island very fertile and the Natives numerous, +and had a great many large Double Canoes built and Ornamented uniformly. +They were all halled ashore, and appeared to be going to decay for want +of use. Their Mories or Burial places stood generally upon these points +of land that projected into the Sea, and were both better built and +Ornamented than those about Royal Bay--Tootaha's excepted. In general +this district appear'd to be in a more flourishing state than the other, +although it is not above one fourth part as big and cannot contain +nothing near the Number of inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 29th. Squally weather with Showers of rain. This morning we +left Tiaraboo and entered upon that of Opooreonoo, the North-West +district of the Island. The first thing we met with worthy of note was at +one of their Mories, where lay the scull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs. +These all lay near to and under one of their Altars. These Animals must +have been offer'd as a Sacrifice to their Gods either all at once or at +different times, but on what account we could not learn. The next day we +met with an Effigy or Figure of a Man made of Basket work and covered +with white and Black feathers placed in such order as to represent the +Colour of their Hair and Skins when Tattow'd or painted. It was 7 1/2 +feet high and the whole made in due proportion; on its head were 4 Nobs +not unlike the stumps of Large Horns--3 stood in front and one behind. We +were not able to learn what use they made of this Monster; it did not at +all appear to us that they paid it the least Homage as a God: they were +not the least Scrupulous of letting us examine every part of it. I am +inclinable to think that it is only used by way of diversion at their +Hevas or public entertainments, as Punch is in a Puppet show.* (* Note by +Cook in Admiralty copy: "Tupia informs us that this is a representation +of one of the Second rank of Eatuas or Gods, called Mauwi, who inhabited +the Earth upon the Creation of man. He is represented as an immense Giant +who had seven heads, and was indued with immense strength and abilities. +Many absurd stories are told of his Feats by Tupia.") We next passed +through a Harbour, which is the only one on the south side of Opooreonoo +fit for Shipping. It is situated about 5 Miles to the Westward of the +Isthmus between 2 Small Islands that lay near the shore and a Mile from +each other. In this Harbour is 11 and 12 fathoms of water and good +Anchorage. About a League and a half to the Westward of this Harbour is +the Morie of Oamo or Oberia, for some told us it belong'd to the one and +some to the other; it far Exceeds every thing of this Kind upon the whole +Island. It is a long square of Stonework built Pyramidically; its base is +267 feet by 87 feet; at the Top it is 250 feet by 8 feet. It is built in +the same manner as we do steps leading up to a Sun Dial or fountain +erected in the Middle of a Square where there is a flite of steps on each +side. In this building there are 11 of such steps; each step is about 4 +feet in height and the breadth 4 feet 7 inches, but they decreased both +in height and breadth from the bottom to the Top. On the middle of the +Top stood the Image of a Bird carved in Wood, near it lay the broken one +of a Fish carved in stone. There was no hollow or Cavity in the inside, +the whole being fill'd up with stones. The outside was faced partly with +hewn stones and partly with others, and these were placed in such a +manner as to look very agreeable to the Eye. Some of the hewn stones were +4 feet 7 inches by 2 feet 4 inches and 15 inches thick, and had been +squared and Polished with some sort of an Edge Tool. On the East side was +enclosed with a stone wall a piece of ground in form of a square, 360 +feet by 354, in this was growing several Cypress trees and Plantains. +Round about this Morie was several smaller ones all going to decay, and +on the Beach between them and the Sea lay scatter'd up and down a great +quantity of human bones. Not far from the Great Morie was 2 or 3 pretty +large Altars, where lay the Scull bones of some Hogs and dogs. This +Monument stands on the south side of Opooreonoo, upon a low point of land +about 100 Yards from the Sea.* (* On map Morai-no te Oamo.) It appeared +to have been built many Years, and was in a State of decay, as most of +their Mories are. From this it would seem that this Island hath been in a +more Flourishing state than it is at present, or that Religious Customs +are (like most other Nations) by these people less observed. We took up +our Quarters near this Morie for the night, and early in the Morning +proceeded on our rout, and without meeting with anything remarkable, got +on board the Ship on Saturday, the 1st of July, having made the Circuit +of the whole Island, which I Estimated at something more than 30 +Leagues.* (* A remarkably close estimate.) The Plan or Sketch which I +have drawn, altho' it cannot be very accurate, yet it will be found +sufficient to point out the Situation of the different Bays and Harbours +and the true figure of the Island, and I believe is without any Material +error. For the first 2 or 3 days we was out upon this excursion we +labour'd under some difficulty for want of Provisions--particularly +bread--an Article we took but little of with us--not doubting that we +should get bread fruit, more than sufficient for a Boat's Crew at every +place we went to, but, on the Contrary, we found the season for that +fruit wholy over, and not one to be seen on the Trees, and all other +fruit and roots were scarce. The Natives live now on Sour paist--which is +made from bread fruit--and some bread fruit and plantains that they get +from the Mountains where the season is Later, and on a Nut not unlike a +chessnut which are now in Perfection; but all these Articles are at +present very scarce, and therefore it is no wonder that the Natives have +not supply'd us with these things of Late. [At Tahiti.] Upon my return to +the Ship I found that the Provisions had been all examined and the Water +got on board, amounting to 65 Tons. I now determind to get everything off +from the Shore and leave the Place as soon as possible. The getting the +several Articles on board, and Scraping and paying the Ship's side, took +us up the following Week without anything remarkable happening until</p> + +<p>[July 1769. At Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, July 9th. When, sometime in the Middle Watch, Clement Webb and +Saml. Gibson, both Marines and young Men, found means to get away from +the Fort (which was now no hard matter to do) and in the morning were not +to be found. As it was known to everybody that all hands were to go on +board on the Monday morning, and that the ship would sail in a day or +two, there was reason to think that these 2 Men intended to stay behind. +However I was willing to stay one day to see if they would return before +I took any step to find them.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. The 2 Marines not returning this morning, I began to +enquire after them, and was inform'd by some of the Natives that they +were gone to the Mountains, and that they had got each of them a Wife and +would not return; but at the same time no one would give us any certain +intelligence where they were, upon which a resolution was taken to seize +upon as many of the Chiefs as we could. This was thought to be the +readiest method to induce the other natives to produce the 2 Men. We had +in our custody Obariea, Toobouratomita, and 2 other Chiefs, but that I +know'd Tootaha would have more weight with the Natives than all these put +together, I dispatched Lieutenant Hicks away in the Pinnace to the place +where Tootaha was, to endeavour to decoy him into the Boat and bring him +on board, which Mr. Hicks performed without the least disturbance. We had +no sooner taken the other Chiefs into Custody in Mr. Banks's Tent than +they became as desirous of having the Men brought back has they were +before of keeping them, and only desir'd that one of our people might be +sent with some of theirs for them. Accordingly I sent a petty officer and +the Corporal of Marines with 3 or 4 of their People, not doubting but +they would return with the 2 Men in the evening; but they not coming as +soon as I expected, I took all the Chiefs on board the ship for greater +safety. About 9 o'Clock in the evening Webb, the Marine, was brought in +by some of the natives and sent on board. He informed me that the Petty +Officer and Corporal that had been sent in quest of them were disarm'd +and seiz'd upon by the natives, and that Gibson was with them. +Immediately upon getting this information I dispatch'd Mr. Hicks away in +the Long boat with a strong party of men to rescue them but before he +went Tootaha and the other Chiefs was made to understand that they must +send some of their People with Mr. Hicks to shew him the place where our +men were, and at the same time to send orders for their immediate +releasement, for if any harm came to the men they (the Chiefs) would +suffer for it; and I believe at this time they wished as much to see the +Men return in safety as I did, for the guides conducted Mr. Hicks to the +place before daylight, and he recovered the men without the least +opposition, and return'd with them about 7 o'Clock in the morning of</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th. I then told the Chiefs that there remain'd nothing more to +be done to regain their liberty but to deliver up the Arms the People had +taken from the Petty Officer and Corporal, and these were brought on +board in less than half an Hour, and then I sent them all on shore. They +made but a short stay with our people there before they went away, and +most of the natives with them: but they first wanted to give us 4 Hogs. +These we refused to except of them, as they would take nothing in return. +Thus we are likely to leave these people in disgust with our behaviour +towards them, owing wholy to the folly of 2 of our men, for it does not +appear that the natives had any hand in inticing them away, and therefore +were not the first Agressors. However, it is very certain that had we not +taken this step we never should have recovered them. The Petty Officer +whom I sent in quest of the deserters told me that the Natives would give +him no intelligence where they were, nor those that went along with him, +but, on the contrary, grew very troublesome, and, as they were returning +in the evening, they were suddenly seized upon by a number of Armed men +that had hid themselves in the wood for that purpose. This was after +Tootaha had been seized upon by us, so that they did this by way of +retaliation in order to recover their Chief; but this method did not meet +with the approbation of them all. A great many condemn'd these +proceedings, and were for having them set at liberty, while others were +for keeping them until Tootaha was releas'd. The dispute went so far that +they came from words to blows, and our people were several times very +near being set at liberty; but at last the party for keeping them +Prevailed, but, as they had still some friends, no insult was offer'd +them. A little while after they brought Webb and Gibson, the two +deserters, to them as Prisoners likewise; but at last they agreed that +Webb should be sent to inform us where the others were. When I came to +Examine these 2 Men touching the reasons that induced them to go away, it +appeared that an acquaintance they had contracted with 2 Girls, and to +whom they had strongly attached themselves, was the Sole reason of their +attempting to stay behind. Yesterday we weighed the small Bower Anchor, +the Stock of which was so much eaten by the worms as to break in heaving +up, and to-day we hove up the best Bower, and found the Stock in the very +same Condition. This day we got everything off from the Shore, and +to-night everybody lays on board.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. The Carpenter employ'd in stocking the Anchors and the +Seamen in getting the Ship ready for Sea. This morning we found the +Staves of the Cask the Natives stole from us some time ago laying at the +Watering place; but they had been Sencible enough to keep the Iron Hoops, +and only return what to them was of no use.</p> + +<p>[Sail from Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. Winds Easterly, a light breeze. This morning we was +visited by Obariea and several others of our acquaintance, a thing we did +not expect after what had hapned but 2 days ago; but this was in some +measures owing to Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself going to Apparra +last night, where we so far convinc'd them of our Friendly disposition +that several of them were in tears at our coming away. Between 11 and 12 +o'Clock we got under Sail, and took our final leave of these People, +after a stay of just three Months, the most part of which time we have +been upon good terms with them. Some few differences have now and then +hapned owing partly to the want of rightly understanding each other, and +partly to their natural thievish disposition, which we could not at all +times bear with or guard against; but these have been attended with no +ill consequence to either side except the first, in which one of them was +kill'd, and this I was very sorry for, because from what had hapned to +them by the Dolphin I thought it would have been no hard matter to have +got and keep a footing with them without bloodshed. For some time before +we left this Island several of the Natives were daily offering themselves +to go away with us; and as it was thought they must be of use to us in +our future discoveries we resolved to bring away one whose name is Tupia, +a Chief and a Priest. This man had been with us most part of the time we +had been upon the Island, which gave us an opportunity to know something +of him. We found him to be a very intelligent person, and to know more of +the Geography of the Islands situated in these Seas, their produce, and +the religion, laws, and Customs of the inhabitants, than any one we had +met with, and was the likeliest person to answer our Purpose. For these +reasons, and at the request of Mr. Banks, I received him on board, +together with a young Boy, his Servant. For the first two Months we were +at this Island the Natives supplied us with as much Bread fruit, Cocoa +Nuts, etc., as we could well dispence with, and now and then a few Hogs, +but of these hardly sufficient to give the Ship's company one and +sometimes two fresh Meals a week. As to Fowls, I did not see above 3 +dozen upon the whole Island, and fish they seldom would part with; but +during the last Month we got little refreshment of any sort. The +detaining of their Canoes broke off Trade at that time, and it never +after was begun again with any Spirit. However, it was not wholy owing to +this, but to a Scarcity. The Season for Bread fruit was wholy over, and +what other Fruits they had were hardly sufficient for themselves; at +least, they did not care to part with them. All sorts of Fruits we +purchased with Beads and Nails, not less than 40-penny, for a nail under +that size was of no value; but we could not get a Hog above 10 or 12 +pounds weight for anything less than a Hatchet, not but that they set +great value upon Spike Nails; but, as this was an Article many in the +Ship are provided with, the Women soon found a much easier way at coming +at them than by bringing Provisions. Our Traffick with this people was +carried on with as much Order as in the best regulated Market in Europe. +It was managed ashore chiefly by Mr. Banks, who took uncommon Pains to +procure from the Natives every kind of refreshment that was to be got. +Axes, Hatchets, Spikes, large Nails, looking Glasses, Knives, and Beads +are all highly valued by this People, and nothing more is wanting to +Traffick with them for everything they have to dispose of. They are +likewise very fond of fine Linnen Cloth, both White and Printed, but an +Axe worth half a Crown will fetch more than a Piece of Cloth worth Twenty +Shillings.</p> + +<p>Upon our arrival at Batavia we had certain information that the two ships +that were at George's Island some time before our arrival there were both +French ships.* (* In Admiralty copy.)</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF KING GEORGE'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>This Island is called by the Natives Otaheite, and was first discovered +by Captain Wallis, in His Majesty's ship Dolphin, on June 19th, 1767, and +to the Credit of him and his Officers, the Longitude of Royal Bay was by +them settled to within half a degree of the Truth, and the whole figure +of the Island not ill described. It is situated between the Latitude of +17 degrees 29 minutes and 17 degrees 53 minutes South, and between the +Longitude of 149 degrees 10 minutes and 149 degrees 39 minutes West from +the Meridian of Greenwich.* (* These latitudes are exact. The modern +limits of longitude are 149 degrees 7 minutes to 149 degrees 36 minutes +30 seconds.) Point Venus, so called from the Observation being made +there, is the Northern extremity of the Island, and lies in the Longitude +of 149 degrees 30 minutes,* (* Now considered to be 149 degrees 29 +minutes.) being the mean result of a Great number of Observations made +upon the Spot. The Shores of this Island are mostly guarded from the Sea +by reefs of coral rocks, and these form several excellent Bays and +Harbours, wherein are room and depth of Water sufficient for the largest +Ships.</p> + +<p>Royal Bay, called by the Natives Matavie,* (* Matavai.) in which we lay, +and the Dolphin before us, is not inferior to any on the Island, both in +Point of conveniency and Situation. It may easily be known by a +Prodigious high Mountain in the middle of the Island, which bears due +south from Point Venus, which is the Eastern point of the Bay. To sail +into it either keep the West point of the Reefs which lies before Point +Venus close on board, or give it a berth of near half a Mile in order to +avoid a small Shoal of Coral Rocks, whereon is but 2 1/2 fathoms of +water. The best Anchoring is on the Eastern side of the Bay in 16 or 14 +fathoms of water, owsey bottom. The Shore of the bay is all a fine sandy +beach, behind which runs a river of Fresh Water, so that any Number of +Ships might Water here without discommoding one another. The only wood +for fuel upon the whole Island is fruit Trees, and these must be +purchased of the Natives, if you mean to keep on good Terms with them. +There are some Harbours to the Westward of this bay that have not been +mentioned, but as they lay Contiguous to it, and are to be found in the +plan, the description of them is unnecessary.</p> + +<p>The land of this Island, except what is immediately bordering upon the +Sea coast, is of a very uneven Surface, and rises in ridges which run up +into the middle of the Island, and there form mountains, that are of a +height Sufficient to be seen at the distance of 20 leagues. Between the +foot of the ridges and the Sea is a border of low Land surrounding the +whole Island, except in a few places where the ridge rises directly from +the Sea. This low land is of Various Breadths, but nowhere exceeds a Mile +and a half. The Soil is rich and fertile, being for the most part well +stock'd with fruit Trees and small Plantations. and well water'd by a +number of small Rivulets of Excellent Water which come from the adjacent +hills. It is upon this low Land that the greatest part of the inhabitants +live, not in Towns or Vilages, but dispersed everywhere round the whole +Island; the Tops of most of the ridges and mountains are Barren and, as +it were, burnt up with the sun, yet many parts of some of them are not +without their produce, and many of the Valleys are fertile and inhabited.</p> + +<p>[Produce of Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>OF THE PRODUCE.</p> + +<p>The produce of this Island is Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, Bonanoes, +Plantains, a fruit like an Apple, sweet Potatoes, Yams, a Fruit known by +the name of Eag Melloa, and reck'ned most delicious; Sugar Cane which the +inhabitants eat raw; a root of the Salop kind, called by the inhabitants +Pea; the root also of a plant called Ether; and a fruit in a pod like a +Kidney bean, which when roasted eats like a Chestnut, and is called Ahee; +the fruit of a Tree which they call Wharra, something like a Pine Apple; +the fruit of a Tree called by them Nano; the roots of a Fern and the +roots of a plant called Thive. All these Articles the Earth almost +Spontaniously produces, or, at least, they are raised with very little +Labour. In the Article of food these people may almost be said to be +exempt from the Curse of our Forefathers, scarcely can it be said that +they Earn their bread with the sweat of their brow; benevolent Nature +hath not only Supply'd them with necessarys, but with abundance of +Superfluities. The Sea coast supplies them with vast Variety of most +Excellent fish, but these they get not without some Trouble and +Perseverance. Fish seems to be one of their greatest Luxuries, and they +Eat it either raw or Dressed and seem to relish it one way as well as the +other. Not only fish but almost everything that comes out of the Sea is +Eat and Esteem'd by these People; Shell Fish, Lobsters, Crabs, and even +sea insects, and what is commonly called blubbers of many kinds, conduce +to their support.</p> + +<p>For tame Animals they have Hogs, Fowls, and Dogs, the latter of which we +learned to Eat from them, and few were there of us but what allow'd that +a South Sea dog was next to an English Lamb. One thing in their favour is +that they live intirely upon Vegetables; probably our Dogs would not Eat +half so well. Little can be said in favour of their Fowles, but their +pork is most Excellent, they have no beasts of Prey of any Sort, and Wild +Fowls are scarce and confin'd to a few Species. When any of the Chiefs +kill a Hog it seems to be almost equally divided among all his +Dependents, and as these are generally very numerous, it is but a little +that come to each person's share, so that their chief food is Vegetables, +and of these they eat a large quantity.</p> + +<p>Cookery seems to have been but little studied here; they have only 2 +Methods of applying Fire--broiling and Baking, as we called it; the +method this is done I have before described, and I am of Opinion that +Victuals dressed this way are more juicy and more equally done than by +any of our Methods, large Fish in particular, Bread Fruit, Bananoes. +Plantains Cooked this way eat like boil'd Potatoes, and was much used by +us by way of bread whenever we could get them. Of bread Fruit they make 2 +or 3 dishes by beating it with a Stone Pestle till it makes a Paste, +mixing Water or Cocoa Nut Liquor, or both, with it, and adding ripe +Plantains, Bananoes, Sour Paste, etc.</p> + +<p>This last is made from bread Fruit in the following manner. This fruit, +from what I can find, remains in Season only 8 or 9 months in the year, +and as it is the Chief support of the inhabitants a reserve of food must +be made for those months when they are without it. To do this the Fruit +is gathered when upon the point of ripening; after the rinde is scraped +off it is laid in heaps and coverd close with leaves, where it undergoes +a fermentation, and becomes soft and disagreeably sweet. The Core is then +taken out, and the rest of the fruit thrown into a Hole dug for that +purpose, the sides and bottom of which are neatly laid with grass. The +whole is covered with leaves and heavy stones laid upon them; here it +undergoes a second Fermentation and becomes sourish, in which condition +they say it will keep good 10 or 12 months. As they want to use it they +make it into balls, which they wrap up in leaves and bake in the same +manner as they do the Fruit from the Tree; it is then ready for eating +either hot or cold, and hath a sour and disagreeable taste. In this last +State it will keep good a Month or 6 Weeks; it is called by them Mahai, +and they seldom make a Meal without some of it, one way or another. To +this plain diet Salt Water is the universal sauce, hardly any one sets +down to a meal without a Cocoa Nut shell full of it standing by them, +into which they dip most of what they Eat, especially Fish, drinking at +Intervals large sops of it out of their Hands, so that a man may use half +a Pint at a Meal.</p> + +<p>It is not common for any 2 to eat together, the better sort hardly ever; +and the women never upon any account eat with the Men, but always by +themselves. What can be the reason of so unusual a custom it is hard to +say; especially as they are a people, in every other instance, fond of +Society and much so of their Women. They were often Asked the reason, but +they never gave no other Answer, but that they did it because it was +right, and Express'd much dislike at the Custom of Men and Women Eating +together of the same Victuals. We have often used all the intreatys we +were Masters of to invite the Women to partake of our Victuals at our +Tables, but there never was an instance of one of them doing it publick, +but they would Often goe 5 or 6 together into the Servants apartments, +and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, nor were they +the least disturbed if any of us came in while they were dining; and it +hath sometimes hapned that when a woman was alone in our company she +would eat with us, but always took care that her own people should not +know what she had don, so that whatever may be the reasons for this +custom, it certainly affects their outward manners more than their +Principle.</p> + +<p>[Natives of Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>PERSON OF THE NATIVES.</p> + +<p>With respect to their persons the Men in general are tall, strong-limb'd, +and well shaped. One of the tallest we saw measured 6 feet 3 inches and a +half. The superior women are in every respect as large as Europeans, but +the inferior sort are in General small, owing possibly to their early +Amours, which they are more addicted to than their superiors. They are of +various Colours: those of the inferior sort, who are obliged to be much +exposed to the Sun and air, are of a very Dark brown; the superiors +again, who spend most of their Time in their Houses under Shelter, are +not browner than people who are born or reside longer in the West Indies; +nay, some of the Women are almost as fair as Europeans. Their hair is +almost universally black, thick, and Strong; this the Women wear short +Cropt Round their Ears. The Men, on the other hand, wear it different +ways: the better sort let it grow long, and sometimes tying it up on the +Top of their Heads, or letting it hang loose over their Shoulders; but +many of the inferiors, and such who, in the exercise of their +professions, fishing, etc., are obliged to be much upon or in the Water, +wear it cropt short like the women. They always pluck out a part of their +beards, and keep what remains neat and Clean. Both Sexes eradicate every +hair from under their Armpits, and look upon it as a mark of +uncleanliness in us that we do not do the Same.</p> + +<p>They have all fine white Teeth, and for the most part short flat Noses +and thick lips; yet their features are agreeable, and their gaite +graceful, and their behavior to strangers and to each other is open, +affable, and Courteous, and, from all I could see, free from treachery, +only that they are thieves to a man, and would steal but everything that +came in their way, and that with such dexterity as would shame the most +noted Pickpocket in Europe. They are very cleanly people, both in their +persons and diet, always washing their hands and Mouth immediately before +and after their Meals, and wash or Bathe themselves in fresh Water 3 +times a day, morning, Noon, and Night.</p> + +<p>The only disagreeable thing about them is the Oil with which they anoint +their heads, Monoe, as they call it; this is made of Cocoanutt Oil, in +which some sweet Herbs or Flowers are infused. The Oil is generally very +rancid, which makes the wearer of it smell not very agreeable.* (* Other +voyagers have, on the contrary, described the odour of this sweetened oil +as agreeable.) Another custom they have that is disagreeable to +Europeans, which is eating lice, a pretty good stock of which they +generally carry about them. However, this custom is not universal; for I +seldom saw it done but among Children and Common People, and I am +perswaided that had they the means they would keep themselves as free +from lice as we do; but the want of Combs in a Hot climate makes this +hardly possible. There are some very fine men upon this Island whose +skins are whiter than any European's, but of a Dead Colour, like that of +the Nose of a White Horse; their Eyes, eyebrows, hair and beards are also +White. Their bodys were cover'd, more or less, with a kind of White down. +Their skins are spotted, some parts being much whiter than others. They +are short-sighted, with their eyes oftimes full of rheum, and always +look'd unwholesome, and have neither the Spirit nor the activity of the +other Natives. I did not see above 3 or 4 upon the whole Island, and +these were old men; so that I concluded that this difference of colour, +etc., was accidental, and did not run in families, for if it did they +must have been more Numerous. The inhabitants of this Island are Troubled +with a sort of Leprosy, or Scab all over their bodys. I have seen Men, +Women, and Children, but not many, who have had this distemper to that +degree as not to be able to walk. This distemper, I believe, runs in +familys, because I have seen both mother and Child have it.</p> + +<p>Both sexes paint their Bodys, Tattow, as it is called in their Language. +This is done by inlaying the Colour of Black under their skins, in such a +manner as to be indelible. Some have ill-design'd figures of men, birds, +or dogs; the women generally have this figure Z simply on every joint of +their fingers and Toes; the men have it likewise, and both have other +differant figures, such as Circles, Crescents, etc., which they have on +their Arms and Legs; in short, they are so various in the application of +these figures that both the quantity and Situation of them seem to depend +intirely upon the humour of each individual, yet all agree in having +their buttocks covered with a Deep black. Over this Most have Arches +drawn one over another as high as their short ribs, which are near a +Quarter of an inch broad. These Arches seem to be their great pride, as +both men and Women show them with great pleasure.</p> + +<p>Their method of Tattowing I shall now describe. The colour they use is +lamp black, prepar'd from the Smoak of a Kind of Oily nut, used by them +instead of Candles. The instrument for pricking it under the Skin is made +of very thin flatt pieces of bone or Shell, from a quarter of an inch to +an inch and a half broad, according to the purpose it is to be used for, +and about an inch and a half long. One end is cut into sharp teeth, and +the other fastened to a handle. The teeth are dipped into black Liquor, +and then drove, by quick, sharp blows struck upon the handle with a Stick +for that purpose, into the skin so deep that every stroke is followed +with a small quantity of Blood. The part so marked remains sore for some +days before it heals. As this is a painful operation, especially the +Tattowing their Buttocks, it is perform'd but once in their Life times; +it is never done until they are 12 or 14 years of Age.</p> + +<p>[Clothing of Tahitians.]</p> + +<p>Their Cloathing is either of Cloth or Matting of several different sorts; +the dress of both Men and Women are much the same, which is a Piece of +Cloth or Matting wrapp'd 2 or 3 times round their waist, and hangs down +below their Knees, both behind and before, like a Pettycoat; another +piece, or sometimes 2 or 3, about 2 yards or 2 1/2 yards long, with a +hole in the Middle, through which they put their heads. This hangs over +their Shoulders down behind and before, and is tied round their waist +with a long piece of thin Cloth, and being open at the sides gives free +liberty to their arms. This is the common dress of all ranks of people, +and there are few without such a one except the Children, who go quite +naked, the Boys until they are 6 or 7 years of Age, and the girls until 3 +or 4. At these Ages they begin to cover what nature teaches them to hide. +Besides the dress I have mentioned some of the better sort, such as can +afford it, but more especially the Women, will one way or other wrap +round them several pieces of Cloth, each 8 or 10 Yards long and 2 or 3 +broad, so much that I have often wondered how they could bear it in so +hot a climate. Again, on the other hand, many of the inferior sort during +the heat of the Day, go almost naked, the women wearing nothing but the +Petticoat aforementioned, and sometimes hardly that. The men wear a piece +of Cloth like a Sack, which goes between their thighs, and brought up +before and behind, and then wrapped round their waist. This every man +wears always without exception, and it is no uncommon thing to see many +of the better sort have nothing else on, as it is reckoned no shame for +any part of the body to be exposed to View, except those which all +mankind hide.</p> + +<p>Both sexes sometimes shade their faces from the Sun with little Bonnets +made of Cocoa-Nut leaves. Some have them of fine Matting, but this is +less common. They sometimes wear Turbands, but their Chief Headdress is +what they call Tomou, which is human Hair plaited scarce thicker than +common thread. Of this I can safely affirm that I have seen pieces near a +mile in length worked upon one end without a Knott. These are made and +worn only by the women, 5 or 6 such pieces of which they will sometimes +wind round their Heads, the effect of which, if done with taste, is very +becoming. They have Earings by way of Ornament, but wear them only at one +Ear. These are made of Shells, Stones, Berries, red pease, and some small +pearls which they wear 3 tied together; but our Beads, Buttons, etc., +very soon supply'd their places.</p> + +<p>[Customs of Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.</p> + +<p>After their meals in the Heat of the day they often Sleep, middle Aged +people especially, the better sort of whom seem to spend most of their +time in eating and Sleeping. Diversions they have but few, shooting with +the Bow and Wrestling are the Chief; the first of which is confin'd +almost wholy to the Chiefs; they shoot for distance only, kneeling upon +one knee and dropping the Bow the instant of the Arrows parting from it. +I have seen one of them shoot an Arrow 274 yards, yet he looked upon it +as no Great Shotte.</p> + +<p>Musick is little known to them, yet they are very fond of it; they have +only 2 Instruments--the flute and the Drum. The former is made of hollow +Bamboo about 15 inches long, in which are 3 Holes; into one of them they +blow with one Nostril, stopping the other with the thumb of the left +hand, the other 2 Holes they stop and unstop with their fingers, and by +this means produce 4 Notes, of which they have made one Tune, which +serves them upon all Occasions, to which they sing a number of songs +generally consisting of 2 lines and generally in rhime. At any time of +the day when they are Lazy they amuse themselves by singing these +Couplets, but especially after dark when their candles are lighted, which +are made of the Kernels of a Nutt abounding much in oil; these are stuck +upon a Skewer of Wood one upon another, and give a very Tolerable light, +which they often keep burning an hour after dark, and if they have +strangers in the House much longer. Their drums are made of a hollow +block of wood covered with Shark's Skin, and instead of Drumsticks they +use their hands. Of these they make out 5 or 6 tunes and accompany the +flutes.</p> + +<p>The drums are Chiefly used at their Heivas, which are a set of Musicians, +2 or 3 Drums for instance, as many flutes and singers, which go about +from House to House and play, and are always received and rewarded by the +Master of the family, who gives them a Piece of Cloth or whatever he can +spare, for which they will stay 3 or 4 hours, during which time his house +will be crowded full, for the people are extravagantly fond of this +diversion. The Young Girls whenever they can collect 8 or 10 Together +dance a very indecent Dance, which they call Timorodee, singing most +indecent songs and using most indecent actions, in the practice of which +they are brought up from their earliest childhood; in doing this they +keep time to a great nicety. This exercise is generally left off as soon +as they arrive at Years of Maturity, for as soon as they have form'd a +connection with man they are expected to leave off dancing Timorodee.</p> + +<p>One amusement or custom more I must mention, though I confess I do not +expect to be believed, it is founded upon a Custom so inhuman and +contrary to the Principles of human nature. It is this: that more than +one half of the better sort of the inhabitants have enter'd into a +resolution of injoying free liberty in Love, without being Troubled or +disturbed by its consequences. These mix and Cohabit together with the +utmost freedom, and the Chilldren who are so unfortunate as to be thus +begot are smother'd at the Moment of their Birth; many of these People +contract intimacies and live together as man and wife for years, in the +course of which the Children that are born are destroy'd. They are so far +from concealing it that they look upon it as a branch of freedom upon +which they Value themselves. They are called Arreoys, and have meetings +among themselves, where the men amuse themselves with Wrestling, etc., +and the Women in dancing the indecent dance before-mentioned, in the +course of which they give full Liberty to their desires, but I believe +keep up to the appearance of decency. I never see one of these meetings; +Dr. Monkhouse saw part of one, enough to make him give Credit to what we +had been told.</p> + +<p>Both sexes express the most indecent ideas in conversation without the +least emotion, and they delight in such conversation beyond any other. +Chastity, indeed, is but little valued, especially among the middle +people--if a Wife is found guilty of a breach of it her only punishment +is a beating from her husband. The Men will very readily offer the Young +Women to Strangers, even their own Daughters, and think it very strange +if you refuse them; but this is done merely for the sake of gain.</p> + +<p>The Houses or dwellings of these People are admirably calculated for the +continual warmth of the Climate; they do not build them in Towns or +Villages, but seperate each from the other, and always in the Woods, and +are without walls, so that the air, cooled by the shade of the Trees, has +free access in whatever direction it hapens to blow. No country can boast +of more delightful walks than this; the whole Plains where the Natives +reside are covered with groves of Bread Fruit and Cocoa Nut Trees, +without underwood, and intersected in all directions by the Paths which +go from House to House, so that nothing can be more grateful in a Climate +where the sun hath so powerful an influence. They are generally built in +form of an Oblong square, the Roofs are supported by 3 Rows of Pillars or +posts, and neatly covered with Thatch made of Palm leaves. A middle-siz'd +house is about 24 feet by 12, extream heigth about 8 or 9, and heigth of +the Eves 3 1/2 or 4. The floors are cover'd some inches deep with Hay, +upon which, here and there, lay matts for the conveniency of sitting +down; few houses has more than one Stool, which is only used by the +Master of the family.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-08"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-08.jpg"></p> +<h4>TAHITI: TYPES OF CANOES.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>In their houses are no rooms or Partitions, but they all huddle and Sleep +together; yet in this they generally observe some order, the Married +people laying by themselves, and the unmarried each sex by themselves, at +some small distance from each other. Many of the Eares or Chiefs are more +private, having small movable houses in which they Sleep, man and Wife, +which, when they go by Water from place to place, are tied upon their +Canoes; these have walls made of Cocoa-Nut leaves, etc. I have said that +the houses are without walls, but this is only to be understood in +general, for many of them are walled with wickering, but not so close but +to admit a free circulation of Air. The matts which serve them to sit +upon in the daytime are also their beds in the night, and the Cloathes +they wear in the day serve for covering, a little wood Stool, block of +wood, or bundle of Cloth for a Pillow. Besides these common houses there +are others much larger, 200 feet long and upwards, 30 broad, and 20 in +heigth. There are generally 2 or 3 of these in every district, and seem'd +not only built for the accommodation of the principal people, but common +to all the inhabitants of that district, and raised and kept up by their +joint Labour; these are always without walls, and have generally a large +Area on one side neatly inclosed with low pallisades, etc.</p> + +<p>[Tahitian Canoes.]</p> + +<p>Their Canoes or Proes are built all of them very narrow, and some of the +largest are 60 or 70 feet long. These consist of several pieces; the +bottom is round and made of large logs hollow'd out to the thickness of +about 3 Inches, and may consist of 3 or 4 pieces; the sides are of Plank +of nearly the same thickness, and are built nearly perpendicular, +rounding in a little towards the Gunwale. The pieces on which they are +built are well fitted, and fastned or sewed together with strong platting +something in the same manner as old China, Wooden Bowls, etc., are +mended. The greatest breadth is at the after part, which is generally +about 18 or 20 Inches, and the fore part about 1/3 Narrower; the heigth +from the bottom to the Gunwale seldom exceeds 2 1/2 or 3 feet. They build +them with high curv'd Sterns which are generally ornamented with carved +work; the head or fore part curves little or nothing. The smaller Canoes +are built after the same plan, some out of one, 2, or more trees +according to their size or the use they are for. In order to prevent them +from oversetting when in the Water, all those that go single, both great +and Small, have what is called Outriggers, which are Pieces of Wood +fastened to the Gunwale and project out on one side about 6, 8, or 10 +feet, according to the size of the Boat. At the end is fastened in a +Parrallel direction to the Canoe a long log of wood simply; or some have +it Shaped in the form of a small Boat, but this is not common; this lays +in the Water and Balances the Boat. Those that are for sailing have +Outriggers only on the other side abreast of the Mast; these serves to +fasten the Shrouds to, and are of use in Trimming the Boat when it blows +fresh; the sailing proes have some one and some 2 masts; the sails are of +Matting and are made narrow at the head and Square at the foot, something +like a Shoulder of Mutton Sail, such as are generally used in Man-of-War +Barges, etc.</p> + +<p>I have mentioned above that the single Canoes have Outriggers, for those +that go double--that is 2 together, which is very common--have no need of +any; and it is done in this manner: 2 Canoes are placed in a parrallel +direction to each other, about 3 or 4 feet asunder, securing them +together by small Logs of Wood laid across and lashed to each of their +gunwales; thus the one boat supports the other, and are not in the least +danger of upsetting, and I believe it is in this manner that all their +large Proes are used, some of which will carry a great number of Men, by +means of a Platform made of Bamboo or other light wood and the whole +length of the Proes and considerably broader, but I never saw but one +fitted in this manner upon the whole Island. Upon the Forepart of all +these large double Proes was placed an Oblong Platform about ten or +twelve feet in length, and six or eight in Breadth, and supported about 4 +feet above the Gunwale by stout Carved Pillars. The use of these +Platforms, as we were told, are for the Club Men to stand and fight upon +in time of Battle, for the large Canoes, from what I could learn, are +built most, if not wholly, for war, and their method of fighting is to +Graple one another and fight it out with Clubs, spears, and stones. I +never saw but one of these sort of Canoes in the water, the rest was all +hauled ashore and seemed to be going to decay, neither were there very +many of them upon the Island.* (* The war canoes of Tahiti exist no +longer. The others are still used, and merit all Cook's encomiums on +their sailing qualities.)</p> + +<p>The Chiefs and better sort of People generally go from one part of the +island to another in small double Canoes which carry a little movable +House, this not only Skreens them from the Sun by day, but serves them to +Sleep in in the Night, and this way of Travelling is Extremely commodious +about such Islands as are inclosed by a reef as this is; for as these +Canoes draw but Little water they can always keep in the Reefs, and by +that means are never in danger.</p> + +<p>They have some few other Canoes, Pahees as they call them, which differ +from those above discribed, but of these I saw but 6 upon the whole +Island, and was told they were not built here. The 2 largest was each 76 +feet long, and when they had been in use had been fastned together. These +are built Sharp and Narrow at both Ends and broad in the Middle; the +bottom is likewise Sharp, inclining to a Wedge, yet Buldges out very much +and rounds in again very quick just below the Gunwale. They are built of +several pieces of thick plank and put together as the others are, only +these have timbers in the inside, which the others have not. They have +high Curved Sterns, the head also Curves a little, and both are +ornamented with the image of a man carved in wood, very little inferior +work of the like kind done by common Ship Carvers in England.</p> + +<p>When one Considers the Tools these people have one cannot help but +admiring their workmanship; these are Adzes and small Hatchets made of a +hard Stone, Chizels and Gouges made of human bones, generally the bones +of the Forearm, but Spike Nails have pretty well supplyd the place of +these. With these ordinary Tools, that a European would expect to break +the first stroke, I have seen them work surprisingly fast. To plain or +polish their work they rub upon it, with a small stone, Coral Beat small +and Mixed with Water; this is done sometimes by scraping it with Shells, +with which alone they perform most of their Small wood work.</p> + +<p>Their Proes or Canoes, large and Small, are row'd and Steer'd with +Paddles, and, notwithstanding the large ones appear to be very unweildy, +they manage them very dexterously, and I believe perform long and distant +Voyages in them, otherwise they could not have the knowledge of the +Islands in these Seas they seem to have. They wear for Shew or Ornament +at the Mast Head of most of their Sailing Canoes Pendants made of +Feathers.</p> + +<p>Having described their fighting Canoes I shall next describe their Arms +with which they attack their Enemys, both by Sea and Land. These are +Clubs, Spears or Lances, Slings and Stones which they throw by hand. The +Clubs are made of a hard wood, and are about 8 or 9 feet long; the one +half is made flatish with 2 Edges, and the other half is round and not +thicker than to be easily grasped by the hand. The Lances are of various +lengths, some from 12, 20 or 30 feet, and are generally Arm'd at the +Small end with the Stings of Sting-rays, which makes them very dangerous +weapons. Altho' these people have Bows and Arrows--and those none of the +worst--we are told that they never use them in their wars, which +doubtless is very extraordinary and not easily accounted for. They have +very Curious breastplates, made of small wickers, pieces of Matting, +etc., and neatly Cover'd with Sharks' teeth, Pearl Oyster shells, birds' +feathers, and dogs' hair. Thus much for their Arms, etc.</p> + +<p>[Tahitian Cloth.]</p> + +<p>I shall now describe their way of making Cloth, which, in my opinion, is +the only Curious manufacture they have. All their Cloth is, I believe, +made from the Bark of Trees; the finest is made from a plant which they +Cultivate for no other purpose.* (* Broussonetia papyrifera. The +manufacture is common to all Polynesia, and the ordinary name for it in +the Pacific is Tapa. The Tahitians, however, called it Ahu.) Dr. Solander +thinks it is the same plant the bark of which the Chinese make paper of. +They let this plant grow till it is about 6 or 8 feet high, the Stem is +then about as thick as one's Thum or thicker; after this they cut it down +and lay it a Certain time in water. This makes the Bark strip off easy, +the outside of which is scraped off with a rough Shell. After this is +done it looks like long strips of ragged linnen; these they lay together, +by means of a fine paist made of some sort of a root, to the Breadth of a +yard more or less, and in length 6, 8 or 10 Yards or more according to +the use it is for. After it is thus put together it is beat out to its +proper breadth and fineness, upon a long square piece of wood, with +wooden beaters, the Cloth being keept wet all the time. The beaters are +made of hard wood with four square sides, are about 3 or 4 inches broad +and cut into grooves of different fineness; this makes the Cloth look at +first sight as if it was wove with thread, but I believe the principal +use of the Groves is to facilitate the beating it out, in the doing of +which they often beat holes in it, or one place thinner than another; but +this is easily repair'd by pasting on small bits, and this they do in +such a manner that the Cloth is not the least injured. The finest sort +when bleached is very white and comes nearest to fine Cotton. Thick +cloth, especially fine, is made by pasting two or more thickness's of +thin cloth, made for that Purpose, together. Coarse thick cloth and +ordinary thin cloth is made of the Bark of Bread fruit Trees, and I think +I have been told that it is sometimes made from the Bark of other trees. +The making of Cloth is wholy the work of the women, in which all ranks +are employ'd. Their common colours are red, brown and yellow, with which +they dye some pieces just as their fancy leads them. Besides Cloth they +make several different sorts of matting, both better and finer than any +we have in Europe; the stuff they make it on is the Produce of the Palm +tree.</p> + +<p>This Island produceth 2 or 3 sorts of plants, of which they make the rope +they use in rigging their Canoes, etc.; the finest sort, such as fishing +lines, saine twine, etc., is made of the Bark of a Tree, and some from +the Kind of Silk grass. Their fishing lines and saines are in Point of +goodness preferable to any of ours. Their fishing Hooks are very +curiously made of Tortoise, Pearl Oyster Shells, etc. They have a sort of +Saine that is made of Coarse broad grass like flags; these are twisted +and tied together in a loose manner until the whole is as thick as a +large sack, and 60 or 80 fathoms long. This they haul in Shoal smooth +water; its own weight keeps it so close to the ground that hardly the +smallest fish can escape out.</p> + +<p>I have before mentioned that the Island is divided into two districts or +kingdoms, which are frequently at war with each other, as hapned about 12 +Months ago, and each of these are again divided into smaller districts, +Whennuas as they call them. Over each of the kingdoms is an Eare dehi, or +head, whom we call a King, and in the Whennuas are Eares, or Chiefs. The +King's power seems to be but very little; he may be reverenced as a +father, but he is neither fear'd nor respected as a monarch, and the same +may be said of the other Chiefs. However, they have a pre-eminence over +the rest of the People, who pay them a kind of a Voluntary Obedience. +Upon the whole, these people seem to enjoy liberty in its fullest +extent--every man seems to be the sole judge of his own actions and to +know no punishment but death, and this perhaps is never inflicted but +upon a public enemy. There are 3 ranks of Men and Women: first, the +Eares, or chiefs; second, the Manahoonas, or Middling sort; and lastly, +the Toutous, which comprehend all the lower-class, and are by far the +most numerous. These seem to live in some sort dependent on the Eares, +who, together with the Manahoonas, own most, if not all the land. This is +Hereditary in their families, and the moment the Heir is born he succeeds +the Father, both in title and Estate; at least to the name, for its most +likely that the latter must have the power during his Son or Daughter's +Minority.</p> + +<p>Note by Cook. Upon our arrival at Batavia, we were informed the two +French Ships, commanded by the Monsieurs Beaugainvile, touched at that +place in their way home from the South Seas two years ago. We were here +told many circumstances of these two Ships, all tending to prove that +they were the same ships that were at George's Island, which we judged +were Spaniards; being led into this mistake by the Spanish Iron, etc., we +saw among the natives, which is easy accounted for, for we are told that +while Beaugainvile in the Frigate was delivering up that part of Falkland +Islands possess'd by the French, to the Spaniards, the Store ship was +trading with the Spaniards in the River Plate, where it is very probable +she disposed of all her European goods, and purchased others to trade +with the Islands in the South Seas. To confirm these last circumstances +we were told that when they arrived at Batavia, the Frigate had on board +a great quantity of Spanish Dollars.</p> + +<p>[Religion of Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Having given the best account I can of the manners and Customs of these +people, it will be expected that I should give some account of their +religion, which is a thing I have learned so little of that I hardly dare +to touch upon it, and should have passed it over in silence, was it not +my duty as well as inclination to insert in this Journal every and the +least knowledge I may obtain of a People, who for many Centuries have +been shut up from almost every other part of the world.</p> + +<p>They believe that there is one Supreem God whom they call Tane; from him +sprung a number of inferior Deities, Eatuas as they call them--these they +think preside over them and intermeddle in their affairs. To these they +offer Oblations such as Hogs, Dogs, Fish, Fruit, etc., and invoke them on +some particular occasions, as in time of real or Apparent Danger, the +setting out of a long Voyage, sickness's, etc.; but the Ceremony made use +of on these occasions I know not. The Mories, which we at first thought +were burying places, are wholy built for Places of worship, and for the +Performing of religious ceremonies in.* (* Cook did not apparently learn +anything in this voyage of the human sacrifices offered in the Morais on +many occasions, such as before war; at the coronation of the king; etc. +The Tahitians were, however, never guilty of cannibalism.) The Viands are +laid upon altars erected 8, 12, or 12 Feet high, by stout Posts, and the +Table of the Altar on which the Viands lay, is generally made of Palm +leaves; they are not always in the Mories, but very often at some +Distance from them. Their Mories, as well as the Tombs of the Dead, they +seem to hold sacred, and the women never enter the former, whatever they +may do the latter. The Viands laid near the Tombs of the Dead are, from +what I can learn, not for the deceased, but as an Offering to the Eatua +made upon that Occasion who, if not, would distroy the body and not +except of the soul--for they believe of a future state of rewards and +punishments; but what their Ideas are of it I know not. We have seen in +some few places small Houses set apart on purpose for the Oblations +offer'd to the Eatua, which consists of small strips of Cloth, Viands, +etc. I am of Opinion they offer to the Eatua a Strip or small piece of +every piece of Cloth they make before they use it themselves, and it is +not unlikely but what they observe the same thing with respect to their +Victuals, but as there are but few of these houses this cannot be a +common Custom; it may only be observ'd by the Priests and such families +as are more religious than others.</p> + +<p>Now I have mentioned Priests, there are men that Exercise that function, +of which Numbers Tupia is one. They seem to be in no great repute, +neither can they live wholy by their Profession, and this leads me to +think that these People are no bigots to their religion. The Priests on +some occasions do the Office of Physicians, and their prescriptions +consists in performing some religious ceremony before the sick person. +They likewise Crown the Eare dehi, or King, in the performing of which we +are told much form and Ceremony is used, after which every one is at +liberty to treat and play as many Tricks with the new King as he pleaseth +during the remainder of the day.</p> + +<p>There is a ceremony which they perform at or after the Funerals of the +Dead which I had forgot to mention at the time; we hapned to see it +sometime before we left the Island. An old Woman, a relation of +Toobouratomita's, hapned to die and was interr'd in the Usual manner. For +several successive evenings after, one of her relations dressed himself +in a very odd dress, which I cannot tell how to describe or to convey a +better Idea of it than to suppose a man dress'd with plumes of feathers, +something in the same manner as those worn by Coaches, Hearses, Horses, +etc., at the Funerals in London. It was very neatly made up of black or +brown and white cloth, black and white feathers, and pearl Oyster Shells. +It cover'd the head, face, and body, as low as the Calf of the Legs or +lower, and not only looked grand but awful likewise. The man thus +equip'd, and attended by 2 or 3 more men and Women with their faces and +bodys besmear'd with soot, and a Club in their hands, would about sunset +take a Compass of near a mile running here and there, and wherever they +came the People would fly from them as tho' they had been so many +hobgoblins, not one daring to come in their way. I know not the reason +for their Performing this ceremony, which they call Heiva, a name they +give to most of their divertisements.</p> + +<p>They compute time by the Moon, which they call Malama, reckoning 30 days +to each moon, 2 of which they say the moon is Mattee, that is, dead, and +this is at the time of the new moon, when she cannot be seen. The day +they divide into smaller Portions not less than 2 Hours. Their +computations is by units, tens, and scores, up to ten score, or 200, etc. +In counting they generally take hold on their fingers one by one, +Shifting from one hand to the other, until they come to the number they +want to express; but if it be a high number, instead of their fingers +they use pieces of Leaves, etc.</p> + +<p>In conversation one with another they frequently join signs to their +words, in which they are so expressive that a stranger will very soon +comprehend their meaning by their actions.</p> + +<p>Having now done with the People, I must once more return to the Island +before I quit it altogether, which, notwithstanding nature hath been so +very bountiful to it, yet it does not produce any one thing of intrinsick +value or that can be converted into an Article of Trade; so that the +value of the discovery consists wholy in the refreshments it will always +afford to shipping in their passage through those seas; and in this it +may be greatly improved by transporting hither horned cattle, etc. +Pumpkins have got quite a footing here, the seeds of which most probably +were brought here by the Spaniards.* (* Bougainville.) We sowed of the +seeds of Water and Musk Mellons, which grew up and throve very fast. We +also gave of these seeds and the seeds of Pine Apples to several of the +Natives, and it cannot be doubted but what they will thrive here, and +will be a great addition to the fruits they already have. Upon our first +arrival we sowed of all sorts of English garden seeds and grain, but not +a single thing came up except mustard sallad; but this I know was not +owing either to the Soil or Climate, but to the badness of the seeds, +which were spoil'd by the length of the Passage.</p> + +<p>[Winds at Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Altho' this Island lies within the Tropick of Capricorn, yet the Heat is +not Troublesome, nor do the winds blow constantly from the East, but are +subject to variations, frequently blowing a fresh gale from the +South-West Quarter for two or three days together, but very seldom from +the North-West. Whenever these variable winds happen they are always +accompanied with a swell from the South-West or West-South-West, and the +same thing happens whenever it is calm and the Atmosphere at the same +time loaded with Clouds--sure indication that the winds are Variable or +Westerly out at Sea, for clear weather generally attends the settled +Trade.</p> + +<p>The meeting of Westerly winds within the general Limits of the Easterly +Trade is a little extraordinary, and has induced former Navigators, when +they met with them, to think that they were caused by the nearness of +some large Tracks of Land: but I rather think they were owing to another +Cause. It hath been found both by the Dolphin and us that the trade winds +in those parts of this Sea doth not extend further to the Southward than +20 degrees, and without which we generally meet with a wind from the +westward. Now, is it not reasonable to suppose that when these winds blow +strong they must encroach upon and drive back the Easterly winds as to +cause the variable winds and South-Westerly swells I have been speaking +of? It is well known that the Trade winds blow but faint for some +distance within their limits, and are therefore easily stopt by a wind +from the Contrary direction. It is likewise known that these limits are +subject to vary several degrees, not only at different seasons of the +Year, but at one and the same season. Another reason why I think that +these South-West winds are not caused by the nearness of any large Track +of land, is in their being always accompanied with a large swell from the +same Quarter, and we find a much greater surf beating upon the Shores of +the South-West sides of the Islands situated just within the Limits of +the Trade winds than upon any other part of them.</p> + +<p>The tides are perhaps as inconsiderable in these Seas as in any part of +the world. A South or South by West moon makes high water in Royal Bay, +but the water does not rise upon a perpendicular above 10 or 12 inches, +except on some very Extraordinary occasions.</p> + +<p>The variation of the Compass I found to be 4 degrees 46 minutes Easterly, +this being the mean result of a great number of Trials made by 4 of Dr. +Knight's needles belonging to the Azimuth Compasses, all of which I +judged to be good ones, and yet when applied to the Meridian line I found +them not only differ one from another sometimes a degree and a half; but +the same needle would differ from itself more or less, the difference +sometimes amounting to half a degree, both at the same time and on +differant days. This will in a great measure account for the seeming +errors that may, upon a nice examination, appear to have been made in +observing the Variation inserted in the Course of this Journal. This +variableness in Magnetick Needles I have many times and in many places +experienced both ashore and on board of Ships, and I do not remember of +ever finding two Needles that would agree exactly together at one and the +same time and place, but I have often found the same Needle agree with +itself for several Trials made immediately one after another.* (* These +discrepancies result from imperfections in the suspension and mounting of +the needles, and are only absent in instruments too delicate for ordinary +sea service.) However, all this is of no sort of consequence to +Navigation, as the Variation of the Compass can always be found to a +degree of accuracy more than sufficient for all nautical Purposes.</p> + +<p>I have before hinted that these People have an Extensive knowledge of the +Islands situated in these Seas. Tupia, as well as several others, hath +given us an account of upwards of 70; but, as the account they have given +of their situation is so Vague and uncertain, I shall refer giving a list +of them until I have learnt from Tupia the Situation of each island with +a little more certainty. Four of these islands--viz., Huaheine, Ulietea, +Otaha, and Bolabola* (* These islands are now known as Huaheine, Raiatea, +Tahaa, and Borabora or Bolabola, and are under French sovereignty.)--we +were informed, lay only one or two days' sail to the Westward of George's +Island, and that we might there procure Hogs, Fowls, and other +refreshments, Articles that we have been very sparingly supply'd with at +this last Island, as the Ship's Company (what from the Constant hard duty +they have had at this place, and the two free use of Woman) were in a +worse state of health than they were on our first arrival, for by this +Time full half of them had got the Venerial disease, in which Situation I +thought they would be ill able to stand the Cold weather we might expect +to meet with to the Southward at this Season of the Year, and therefore +resolved to give them a little time to recover while we ran down to and +explored the Islands before-mentioned.</p> + +<p>Tupia informs us that in the Months of November, December, and January +they have constant Westerly winds, with rain; also that the whole island +can muster 6780 Fighting Men, by which some judgment can be formed of the +number of inhabitants. Each district furnishes a certain number, which +the chief is obliged to bring into the field when summoned by the Eare +dehi, or King of the Island, either to make war or repell an invasion.* +(* This paragraph is added in Admiralty copy.)</p> + +<p>[Historical Notes, Tahiti.]</p> + +<p>Notes on Tahiti. The missionaries who came to Tahiti in 1797, in the +missionary ship Duff, and settled at Matavai, gathered many details of +the history and economy of the islands. It appears that the state of +society, though in many respects savage, had attained a certain pitch of +civilisation, especially with regard to government. There was generally a +head chief or king of the whole island, who governed after the feudal +manner by the sub-chiefs. The sovereignty was hereditary, with this +peculiarity, that the eldest son of the king became from his birth the +sovereign. The father governed henceforth as regent until the son was of +an age to take the reins in his own hands, when the father retired. This +was the idea; but, as may be imagined, it led to various complications +and difficulties, and wars between the different parts of the island and +the different chiefs were frequent.</p> + +<p>When Wallis discovered the island, in June 1767, Amo was king, or +Arii-rahi (called by Cook Eare-dehi), Bereia (Cook's Obereia) being his +wife. The latter seems to have been a woman of much character, and to +have practically governed the island. The two were separated, inasmuch +that they had mutually contracted other alliances, but, according to the +custom of the country, without affecting their friendship.</p> + +<p>On Wallis's appearance the warlike Tahitians at once attacked the +Dolphin, but were easily defeated, and the guns and small arms with which +they then for the first time made acquaintance had such an effect upon +them that they speedily made peace, and recognised the superiority of +Europeans.</p> + +<p>The defeat had, however, a great effect on the prestige of Amo, whose +authority rapidly diminished. Tootaha, Amo's brother, and chief of the +district of Matavai, where the Dolphin anchored, was much enriched by her +visit, and became a greater man in the eyes of his compatriots. +Bougainville also touched at Tootaha's district; and although his two +ships only remained ten days, it was long enough to furnish this chief +with many more valuable and coveted articles.</p> + +<p>In about December 1768, or six months before Cook's visit, war broke out +in the island, and Amo was totally defeated by the chief who governed the +eastern peninsula. Cook saw at Papara, on the south side of the main +island, the relics of this battle in the shape of many human bones. +Tootaha, who had joined in the war against his brother, became regent for +the son (Pomare) of another brother, Hapai, and was therefore the +principal man in the island when Cook appeared. Notwithstanding, when Amo +(whom Cook calls Oamo), came to visit the Europeans on 21st June, +bringing his young son, Temare, with him, the latter was carried on men's +shoulders, which was one of the ceremonial observances due to the Otou, +or young king, and the natives present recognised his royal character by +uncovering their shoulders.</p> + +<p>Tupia (or Tupaia), who left the island with Cook, was the chief priest of +the island, and had been living with Bereia; but having shortly before +conspired to kill Tootaha, it is probable that he felt his life was +unsafe in the island.</p> + +<p>Frequent wars raged in the island for many years after Cook's first +visit. Tootaha was killed in one of these, and when Cook again arrived, +in 1773, Pomare was king, though Cook only knew him by his title of Otou, +which he apparently still retained, though there was no regent.</p> + +<p>In 1789 Captain Bligh called at Tahiti in the Bounty, to export young +bread-fruit trees to the West Indies. The delights of Tahiti probably had +their part in bringing about the well-known mutiny a few days after the +ship left; and on the return of the Bounty with her crew of mutineers, +sixteen of them remained on the island. These men took a leading part in +the continual dissensions in the island, until, in 1791, they were +carried off by the Pandora, sent with the object of capturing the +mutineers.</p> + +<p>English missionaries came to Tahiti in 1797; but after twelve years' +residence, during which they made no progress, and were constantly in +danger from the frequent wars, they retreated to Sydney, in New South +Wales, leaving two only of their number in Huahine and Eimeo, two of the +Society Islands. Two years later, on the invitation of Pomare II, who +was, however, then expelled from Tahiti and living in Eimeo, some of them +returned, and Pomare became the first convert. Christianity rapidly +spread, and in 1815, Pomare having returned to Tahiti, he and his +Christian followers were attacked. The battle ended in the complete +victory of Pomare, and for the first time in the sanguinary history of +the island no butchery of the vanquished followed, nor any devastation of +the country. The principal idols were destroyed; and whether in +consequence of the surprise the natives felt at finding that no +retribution followed this sacrilege, or from gratitude at the clemency of +the victors, opposition to the new religion ceased, the whole island soon +became Christian, and the customs of the inhabitants were much changed. +In 1827 the British Government declined to accede to a request to throw +its protectorate over Tahiti.</p> + +<p>In 1836 two French priests came to the island with the avowed intention +of proselytising. They were expelled; and after several visits of French +men-of-war, who came to obtain redress for this act, and an assurance of +free entrance for French subjects, the island was taken possession of by +a French squadron in 1843, and Queen Pomare, daughter of Pomare II, was +de facto deposed. The island has been ever since under the dominion of +France. Tahiti is now in a flourishing condition, and exports a +considerable quantity of cotton, cocoanuts, and vanilla.</p> + +<p>The majority of the natives still profess the Protestant religion.</p> + +<p>Papiete, a little westward of Matavai, is now the principal port and town +of the island, the harbour possessing some advantages over the latter.</p> + +<p>The Tahitians are marvellously fond of singing and dancing, and still +retain their primitive and exceedingly free manners, and the custom of +decorating themselves with flowers.</p> + +<p>The beauty of the island, with its neighbouring western group, is +probably unsurpassed, and, considering all the circumstances, it says +much for the discipline of the Endeavour that only two of her crew +attempted to remain in what seemed a Paradise.</p> + +<p>Cook's efforts to make his men deal properly with the natives are well +illustrated by the following extract from Mr. Molineux's Log, of the 29th +April. The incident is not mentioned by Cook.</p> + +<p>"Punished Hy. Jeffs, Seaman, with a dozen lashes for ill-behaviour on +shore. He had been rude to a man's wife yesterday, of which the Indian +complained, and Jeffs was confined immediately the Captain had the fact +plainly proved, and next morning the Captain invited the offended Parties +on board, who were ignorant of his intentions. All hands being called, +and the Prisoner brought aft, the Captain explained the nature of his +Crime in the most lively manner, and made a very Pathetick speech to the +Ship's Company during his punishment. The woman was in the greatest +agonies, and strongly interceded for him. The man's name was Tuburi and +his wife's name Tamide. I remember them both last Voyage. I should have +mentioned Tuburi being sorry to see Jeffs punished."</p> + +<p>It is evident, from what Cook himself tells us (above), and from what is +now well known of the laxity of Tahitian morals, that this punishment +would seem excessive to the natives, and especially to the women, who +were accustomed themselves to bear whatever blame was bestowed.</p> + +<p>Note. For full description of original Tahitian manners and customs, see +"Polynesian Researches," by W. Ellis (London, H.G. Bohn, 1853); "Iles +Taiti," par MM. Vincendon-Dumoulin et Chas. Desgraz (Paris, 1844).</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch4"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 4. TAHITI TO NEW ZEALAND.</h2> + +<h3>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES AT SEA.</h3> + +<p>[July 1769.]</p> + +<p>FRIDAY, July 14th. Gentle breezes at North-East and Clear weather. I have +before made mention of our departure from Royal Bay on the preceeding +forenoon, and likewise that I had determined to run down to Huaheine and +Ulietea* (* Raiatea.) before we stood to the Southward; but having +discovered, from the Hills of George's Island, an Island laying to the +Northward, we first stood that way to take a nearer View of it. This +Island is called Tethuroa.* (* Tetiaroa.) It lies North 1/2 West, distant +8 Leagues from Point Venus, and is a small, low, uninhabited Island, +frequented by the people of George's Island for fish, with which it is +said to abound. At 6 A.M. the Westermost part of York Island bore +South-East 1/2 South and the body of George's Island East 1/2 South. +Punished the 2 Marines who attempted to desert from us at George's Island +with 2 Dozen lashes each, and then released them from Confinement. At +Noon the body of York Island* (* Eimeo, or Murea.) bore East by South 1/2 +South, Royal Bay South 70 degrees 45 minutes East, distant 61 Miles; and +an Island which we took to be Saunder's Island, discovered by Captain +Wallace (called by the Natives Topoamanan),* (* Tubuai Manu.) bore +South-South-West Latitude observed, 17 degrees 9 minutes South. Saw land +bearing North-West 1/2 West, which Tupia calls the Island of Huaheine.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-09"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-09.jpg"></p> +<h4>CHART OF THE SOCIETY ISLES, DISCOVERED BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, 1769.<br> +REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. Light airs and Variable between the North and +West-South-West. Clear weather. At 6 p.m. York Island bore South-East, +and Huaheine West-North-West, and at 7 a.m. it bore West. Latitude +observed at Noon 16 degrees 50 minutes South. Royal Bay South 37 degrees +30 minutes East, distant 22 Leagues.</p> + +<p>[At Huaheine.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th. Winds at South and South-South-East. A Gentle Breeze, with +some few showers of rain. At 6 p.m. the Island of Huaheine West 1/2 +South, distant 7 or 8 leagues. At 8 a.m., being close in with the +North-West part of the Island, sounded, but had no ground with 80 +fathoms. Some of the Natives came off to the Ship, but they were very shy +of coming near until they discover'd Tupia; but after that they came on +board without hesitation. Among those who came on board was the King of +the Island, whose name is Oree. He had not been long on board before he +and I exchanged Names, and we afterwards address'd each other +accordingly.* (* The Tahitians called Cook Tootee, which was their idea +of the sound of his name, with a vowel termination, none of their words +ending in a consonant.) At noon the North end of the Island bore South by +East 1/2 East, distant 72 Leagues. Latitude observed, 16 degrees 40 +minutes South. Three other Islands in sight, namely, Ulietea, Otaha, and +Bolabola,* (* Tahaa and Borabora.) so called by the Natives.</p> + +<p>Monday, 17th. Winds Southerly, fine pleasant weather. At 3 p.m. anchored +in a small Harbour on the West side of the Island called by the Natives +Owarhe, in 18 fathoms water, clear ground, and secure from all winds. +Soon after, I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and +Dr. Monkhouse, Tupia, the King of the Island, and some others of the +Natives, who had been on board since the morning. The Moment we landed +Tupia stripped himself as low as his waist, and desir'd Mr. Monkhouse to +do the same. He then sat down before a great number of the Natives that +were collected together in a large Shed or House, the rest of us, by his +own desire, standing behind; he then begun a long speach or prayer, which +lasted near a Quarter of an Hour, and in the Course of this Speech +presented to the People two Handkerchiefs, a black silk Neckcloth, some +beads, and two very small bunches of Feathers. These things he had before +provided for that purpose. At the same time two Chiefs spoke on the other +side in answer to Tupia, as I suppose, in behalf of the People, and +presented us with some young Plantains plants, and 2 small bunches of +Feathers. These were by Tupia order'd to be carried on board the Ship. +After the Peace was thus concluded and ratified, every one was at liberty +to go where he pleased, and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay +his Oblations at one of the Mories. This seem'd to be a common ceremony +with this people, and I suppose always perform'd upon landing on each +other's Territories in a peaceable manner. It further appear'd that the +things which Tupia gave away was for the God of this People, as they gave +us a Hog and some Cocoanuts for our God, and thus they have certainly +drawn us in to commit sacriledge, for the Hog hath already received +sentence of Death, and is to be dissected to-morrow. A.M. I set about +Surveying the Island, and Dr. Monkhouse, with some hands, went ashore to +Trade with the Natives, while the Long boat was employ'd compleating our +Water.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-West. Clear +weather. The Trading party had no Success to-day. The Natives pretend +that they have not had time to collect their provisions from the +Differant parts of the Island, but that on the Morrow we should have +some; and as I had not seen so much of the Island as I desir'd, I +resolved to stay one day longer to see if anything was to be got.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th. P.M. Variable light Airs and clear weather. The Trading +party had better success to-day than Yesterday. A.M. a Gentle breeze at +South-East. As it was known to the Natives that we intended to sail +to-day, Oree, the Chief, and several more, came on board to take their +leave of us. To the Chief was given a small plate on which was Stamp'd +the following inscription--viz., "His Britannick Majesty's Ship, +Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." This +was accompanied with some Medals, or Counters, of the English Coins, +struck 1761, together with some other Presents. All these, but more +particularly the Plate, the Chief promised never to part with. This we +thought would prove as lasting a Testimony of our having first discover'd +this Island as any we could leave behind. After this was done they were +dismissed, and we began to prepare to leave the place. But as that falls +out on the following day, I shall conclude this with a Discription of the +Island, which is situated in the Latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes South, +and Longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes West from Greenwich and North 58 +degrees West, distance, 31 leagues, from King George's Island, or +Otaheite. It is about 7 Leagues in compass, and of a Hilly and uneven +surface. It hath a safe and commodious Harbour, which lies on the West +side, under the Northermost high land and within the North end of the +Reef which lays along that side of the Island. Into this Harbour are 2 +inlets, or openings in the Reef, about 1 1/2 Miles from each other. The +Southermost is the Broadest, on the South side of which is a very small +sandy Island. This Harbour is called by the Natives Ohwarhe. The produce +of this Island is in all respects the same as King George's Island, and +the Manner and Customs of the inhabitants much the same, only that they +are not addicted to Stealing; and with respect to colour they are rather +fairer than the natives of George's Island, and the whole more Uniformly +of one Colour.</p> + +<p>[At Raiatea.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 20th. Moderate breezes at East and East-North-East. Fair +weather. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. weighed and made Sail for the Island of +Ulietea, which lies South-West by West, Distance 7 or 8 leagues from +Huaheine. At 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shortened +sail and stood off and on all night, and at daylight made Sail in shore, +and soon after discover'd an opening in the Reef that lies along this +side of the Island, within which, Tupia said, was a good Harbour. Upon +this I hoisted out the Pinnace, and sent the Master in to Examine it, who +soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow. Accordingly we stood in and +Anchor'd in 22 fathoms, soft ground. Soon after we Anchor'd some of the +Natives came on board the Ship with very little invitation.</p> + +<p>Friday, 21st. Winds variable, and dark, cloudy weather, with frequent +Showers of rain. At 1 p.m. I landed in Company with Mr. Banks and the +other gentlemen. The first thing done was the performing of Tupia's +ceremony in all respects as at Huaheine. I then hoisted an English jack, +and took possession of the Island and those adjacent in the name of His +Britannick Majesty, calling them by the same names as the natives do. +A.M. sent the Master in the Long boat to examine the coast of the South +part of the Island, and one of the Mates in the Yawl to sound the Harbour +where the Ship lay, while I was employ'd in the Pinnace surveying the +Northern part of the Island, and Mr. Monkhouse went ashore to trade with +the Natives for such refreshments as were to be got.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22nd. P.M. the wind Variable with Showers of rain. A.M. strong +Gales at South and hazey with rain, and which continued the most part of</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23rd, in so much that I did not think it safe to break the Ship +loose and put to sea as I intended.</p> + +<p>Monday, 24th. Winds variable from South-South-East to North-East. At 8 +a.m. got under sail and plyed to the Northward within the Reef, in order +to go out at the Northern Channell, it being the broadest; but being +little wind and meeting with Shoals we had not before discovered, we +turned down but slowly.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th. First part, little wind at North-East; in the night calm, +A.M. a fresh breeze at West-North-West, fair weather. At 3 p.m. Anchor'd +in 22 fathoms Muddy bottom, the North Channell open bearing North-East +1/2 East, at 5 a.m. a breeze sprung up at North-West, weighed and put to +Sea, and hauled to the Northward in order to take a View of the Island +and Ataha and Bolabola; but before I proceed farther, I shall describe +the Harbour we have been in.* (* It has no particular name, but extends +the whole of the eastern side of Raiatea.) This Harbour, taken in its +greatest Extent, is capable of holding any number of Shipping in perfect +security, as it extends almost the whole length of this side of the +Island, and is defended from the Sea by a reef of Coral rocks; the +Southermost opening* (* Teava Moa Pass.) in this reef or Channell into +the Harbour, which is not more than a Cable's length wide, is off the +Eastermost point of the Island, and may be known by a small woody Island, +which lies a little to the South-East of it. Between 3 and 4 miles +North-West from this Island lies 2 other small Islands, and in the same +direction as the reef, of which they are a part. Between these 2 Islands +is another Channell* (* Iriru Pass.) into the Harbour that is a full +Quarter of a Mile broad; still further to the North-West are some other +small Islands, where, I am informed, is another small inlet, but this I +did not see; but, as to the other 2, we enter'd the Harbour by the one +and came out by the other.</p> + +<p>The principal refreshments we have got here consists in Plantains, Cocoa +nuts, some Yams and a few Hogs and fowls. This side of the Island is +neither Populous nor Rich in Produce, if compared to George's Island, or +even Huaheine; however, here is no want of refreshments for a ship who +may put in here and stay but a short time; and wood and water may be got +everywhere, tho' the latter is not very convenient to come at.</p> + +<p>[Off Bolabola.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. Winds at West by North and West by South, but very +Variable towards the Latter part. At 4 p.m. the North End of Ulietea +South 75 degrees West, distance 2 leagues, and the south end of Otaha +North 77 degrees West. About a League to the Northward of the South end +of Otaha, on the East side of the Island, a mile or more from the Shore, +lies 2 Small Islands. Between these Islands Tupia says there is a +Channell into a very good harbour which lies within the Reef and it had +all the appearance of such. Keept plying to Windward all night without +getting any ground. At Noon the Peak on Bolabola West by South. Latitude +observed 16 degrees 26 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 27th. Variable light Airs of wind in the South-West Quarter, +and fair weather. Seeing that there is a broad Channell between Otaha and +Bolabola, I intend to go through that way and not run to the Northward of +all; but as the wind is right an end, and very Variable withall, we get +little or no ground. Between 5 and 6 o'Clock p.m., as we were standing to +the Northward, we discover'd a small low Island lying North by West or +North-North-West distant 4 or 5 Leagues from Bolabola. This Island is +called Tubai. Tupia says it produces nothing but a few Cocoa Nuts, that +there are only 3 families live upon it, but that the people from these +Islands resort thither to Catch fish. At Noon the peak of Bolabola bore +North 25 degrees West, and the north end of Otaha North 80 degrees West, +distant 3 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 38 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Friday, 28th. Little wind and Variable between the South-West and +North-West. At 6 a.m., being near the Entrance of the Harbour which lies +on the East side of Otaha before mentioned,* (* Hamene Bay.) and finding +that it might be examin'd without loosing time, I sent away the Master in +the Long boat, with orders to sound the Harbour, and if the wind did not +shift in our favour to land upon the Island and to Traffick with the +Natives for such refreshments as were to be got. Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander went along with him.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. Little wind and Variable. Kept plying on and off this +day, waiting for the return of the Long boat. At 1/2 past 5 not seeing +anything of her, fir'd a Gun for her to return, and as soon as it was +dark hoisted a light. At 1/2 past 8 heard the report of a musquet, which +we answered with a Gun; and soon after the Boat came on board with 3 +small Hogs, a few Fowls, and a large Quantity of Plantains, and some +Yams. They found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with +anything they had, and the Harbour safe and Commodious, with a good +Anchorage in 25, 20, and 16 fathoms clear ground. As soon as the Boat was +hoisted in we made Sail to the Northward, and at 8 o'Clock a.m. were +close under the Peak of Bolabola, but as we could not weather the Island, +we Tack'd and stood off until near Noon, then Tack'd again and stood to +the South-West. At Noon the Peak of Bolabola bore South 75 degrees West; +we were then distant from the Shore under it 2 or 3 miles, and from the +Peak about 5 miles. Latitude observed 16 degrees 29 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. Wind in the South-East Quarter. At first a Gentle breeze, +but afterwards freshned upon us. P.M. made several Trips before we could +weather the South end of Bolabola, which at last we accomplished between +7 and 8 o'Clock, and stood off South-South-West until 12 at night, then +Tack'd and stood in until 4 a.m., then stood off again; but meeting with +a large swell from the Southward, against which the Ship made little or +no way, at 8 we tack'd and stood in Shore again. At this time we +discovered an Island which bore from us North 63 degrees West, distant +about 8 Leagues: at the same time the Peak of Bolabola bore North 1/2 +East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. This Island Tupia calls Maurua, and +according to his account it is but small, and surrounded by a Reef of +Rocks, and hath no Harbour fit for Shipping. It is inhabited, and its +produce is the same as the other Islands we have touched at. It riseth in +a high round hill in the middle of the Island, which may be seen 10 +Leagues. At noon the South end of Otaha bore North 80 degrees East, +distance 4 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 39 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Monday, 31st. Fresh Gales in the South-East Quarter, and close, cloudy +weather. Plying to windward all this day, on the South-West side of +Otaha, without gaining little or anything. In the middle watch was +obliged to double reef our Topsails, but in the morning it fell moderate, +and we crowded all the sail we could. At Noon the South end of Otaha bore +East, distance 2 Leagues. Latitude observed 16 degrees 40 minutes South. +Tupia told us there was a very good Harbour within the Reef which lies on +this side of Otaha; but this Harbour I shall discribe in another place.</p> + +<p>[August 1769. At Raiatea.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, August 1st. A fresh Gale at South-East the most part of this +day. Keept plying to windward all the afternoon and night, and in the +morning found ourselves nearly the length of the South end of Ulietea, +and to windward of some Harbours that lay on the West side of this +Island. Into one of them I intended to go with the Ship, in order to stop +a Leak in the Powder room, which could not be easily done at Sea, and to +take in more Ballast, as I found her too light to carry sail upon a wind. +At Noon plying off one of the Harbour's mouth, the wind being right out.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 2nd. Moderate breezes at South-East and East, with some +Showers of Rain. At 3 p.m. anchor'd in the Entrance of the Channell +leading into the Harbour* (* Rautoanui.) in 14 fathoms water; found a +tide setting pretty strong out, which was the reason that we could not +work in; carried out the Kedge Anchor in order to warp into the Harbour, +but after this was done we could not Trip the Bower Anchor with all the +purchass we could make, and was therefore obliged to lay still all night, +but in the morning we did it with Ease, and warped the Ship into a proper +birth, and moor'd in 28 fathoms, a sandy bottom. A great many of the +Natives came off to us both last night and this morning, and brought with +them Hogs, Fowls, Plaintains, etc., which they parted with at a very easy +rate.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 3rd. Winds from East-South-East to North-East; very Hot weather +this afternoon. I went ashore to look for a place to get stones for +Ballast, and a watering place, both of which I found very convenient; and +in the morning sent an Officer a Shore to Superintend the getting off the +Ballast and Water, and I went in the Pinnace to the Northward to survey +that part of the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while +the Carpenters were employ'd on board stopping the Leaks of the Powder +room and Foresail room.</p> + +<p>Friday, 4th. First and Latter parts, moderate breezes, at +East-North-East; in the night, Calm, Hot, and sultry. In our rout to the +Northward this afternoon we were entertained at one place with Musick and +Dancing. The Musick consisted of 3 Drums, and the Dancing was mostly +perform'd by 2 Young Women and one Man, and this seem'd to be their +profession. The dress of the women was such as we had not seen before; it +was neat, decent, and well chose, and in many respects not much unlike a +European dress; only their Arms, Necks, and Shoulders were bare, and +their headdress was the Tomow stuck with Flowers. They made very little +use of their feet and Legs in Dancing, but one part or another of their +bodies were in continual motion and in various postures, as standing, +setting, and upon their Hands and knees, making strange Contorsions. +Their Arms, hands, and Fingers they moved with great Agility and in a +very Extraordinary manner, and altho' they were very exact in observing +the same motion in all their movements, yet neither their Musick or +Dancing were at all Calculated to please a European. There were likewise +some men, who acted a kind of a Farce; but this was so short that we +could gather nothing from it, only that it shew'd that these People have +a Notion of Dramatick performances, and some of our Gentlemen saw them +act a Farce the next day, wherein was 4 Acts, and it seem'd to them to +represent a War between the Bolabola men and those of Ulietea, wherein +the former triumph'd over the latter; but what might help them to draw +this Conclusion was the knowing that such a thing has not long ago hapned +between these 2 People, and that the Bolabola men at present possess most +of the Lands on this Island. This is their grand Dramatick Heiva, and I +believe is occasionally performed in all the Islands. Upon my return to +the Ship in the evening I found that they had got on board 20 Tuns of +Ballast, and this I thought would be sufficient. In the morning we sent +all our water Casks on shore, and got them all off full by Noon. This +morning I received a present from Opoony, the Eare dehi of Bolabola, who +at this time was upon this Island. It consisted of 3 Hogs, some pieces of +Cloth, Plantains, Cocoa Nuts, etc. These were sent by his Servants, and I +was told that he would come the next day himself.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 5th. This evening we bought as much Fish as the whole Ship's +Company could destroy while good. In the morning I sent the Master to the +North End of the Island with the Long boat to Traffick with the Natives +for Provisions, as they did not bring it to the Ship, as they had +hitherto done; and myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, +went in the Pinnace to the Southern part of the Island, partly on the +same account and partly to Examine that part of the Island. In our rout +we passed thro' 2 Harbours equally as good as the one in which the Ship +lays, but the Country about them is poorer and but thinly inhabited, and +we got no one thing worth bringing home with us, but the Master succeeded +something better.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 6th. Variable light Airs and fair weather. A.M. I sent the Master +again to the Northward to procure refreshments, who return'd not +unsuccessfull. Opoony, the Chief, sent some of his people this morning to +me to get something in return for the present he sent the other day; he +not choosing, as I suppose, to trust himself on board, or perhaps he +thought the persons he sent (who were 3 very pretty young Girls) would +succeed better than he should do. Be this as it may, they went away very +well satisfied with what they got, altho' I believe that they were +disappointed in some things.</p> + +<p>Monday, 7th. Variable light Airs. P.M. some Showers of rain. Being +desirous to see King Opoony, we made a party this afternoon and I went +ashore for that purpose, carrying along with us a small present. Upon our +landing he did not receive us setting, as all the other Chiefs had +hitherto done, or in any manner of Form; this we attributed to his +Stupidity, for such he appeared to be. However, he gave me a Hog in +return for the present I made him, and this was paying us full as great a +Complement. Before we took our leave we let him know that we should go to +Otaha in the morning in our Boats, and would be glad to have him along +with us, and he accordingly promised to accompany us thither. +Accordingly, very early in the morning, I set out with both Pinnace and +Long boat for Otaha, and some of the Gentlemen along with me; and in our +way called upon Opoony, who was in his Canoe ready to set out. As soon as +we landed on Otaha I made him a present of a Axe; this I thought would +induce him to incourage his Subjects to bring us such Provisions as we +wanted, but I believe we had already got all they intended us, for after +staying with him until Noon we were obliged to go away without geting any +one thing.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 8th. After leaving Opoony we proceeded towards the North point +of the Island, and in our way pick'd up half a Dozen Hogs, as many Fowls, +and some Plantains and Yams; and I had an opportunity to view and draw a +Sketch of the Harbour which lies on this Side of the Island, and which +was the only thing that induced me to make this Excursion. After it was +dark we met with the Longboat, which I had in the morning dispatch'd to +another part of the Island; and we now made the best of our way to the +Ship and got on board about 10 at night. The Carpenter having finished +stopping the Leaks about the Powder Room and Sailroom I now intend to +sail as soon as ever the wind will permit us to get out of the Harbour.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 9th. P.M. had a light breeze of wind at North; in the night +had much rain. A.M. little wind and Variable, with some Showers of rain. +At 11 a.m. a breeze of wind sprung up at East, which carried us out of +the Harbour, and as soon as the Boats were hoisted in made Sail to the +Southward. Since we have been about these Islands we have expended but +little of our Sea Provisions, and have at this last place been very +plentifully supply'd with Hogs, Fowls, Plantains, and Yams, which will be +of very great use to us in case we should not discover any lands in our +rout to the Southward, the way I now intend to Steer.</p> + +<p>[Description of Society Islands.]</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS, ULIETEA, OTAHA AND BOLABOLA.</p> + +<p>So called by the Natives, and it was not thought adviseable to give them +any other Names; but these three, with Huaheine, Tuibai, and Maurua, as +they lay contigious to one another, I have named Society Isles.</p> + +<p>They are situated between the Latitude of 16 degrees 10 minutes and 16 +degrees 55 minutes South and between the Longitude 151 degrees 00 minutes +and 151 degrees 42 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. Ulietea +and Otaha lay close to each other, and are both inclosed within a Reef of +Coral Rocks; and altho' the distance between the one and the other is +near 2 Miles, yet there is no Passage for Shipping. By means of this reef +are form'd several excellent Harbours. The entrance into them are but +narrow, but when a Ship is once in nothing can hurt her. Those on the +East side have been already described. On the West side of Ulietea, which +is the largest Island of the 2, are 3, the Northermost of which, called +Oraotanue,* (* Rautoanui.) we lay in, the Channell leading in is a 1/4 of +a Mile wide and lies between 2 low sandy Islands, which are the +Northermost small Islands on this side. You have good Anchorage between +or just within the 2 Islands in 28 fathoms soft ground. This harbour, +tho' but small, yet it is preferable to any on the Island, on account of +the easy getting of fresh Water, and being seated in the most fertile +part of the Island. The other 2 harbours lay to the Southward of this, +and not far from the South end of the Island. In both of them are good +Anchorage in 10, 12, and 14 fathoms water: they are readily known by 3 +small woody Islands that lay at their entrance, the Southermost Harbour +lies within and to the Southward of the Southermost Island, and the other +lies between the Northermost. There are more Harbours at the South End of +this Island, as I am inform'd, but these were not examind by us.</p> + +<p>Otaha affords 2 very good Harbours, one on the East and the other on the +West side; that on the East side called Ohamane* (* Hamene.) hath been +already mentioned, the other is called Oharurua* (* Hurepiti.) and lies +about the middle of the South-West side of the Island. It is pretty +large, and affords good Anchorage in 20 and 25 fathoms, and there is no +want of fresh Water. The breach in the Reef which forms a Channell into +this harbour is 1/4 of a mile broad, steep too, on both sides, and the +same may be said of all the others, and in general there is no danger but +what is Visible.</p> + +<p>The Island of Bolabola lies North-West by West from Otaha, distant 4 +Leagues, it is incompassed by a reef of Rocks and several small Islands, +and the Circuit of the whole appear'd to be about 8 Leagues. On the +South-West side of the Islands (as I am inform'd) is an opening in the +Reef which admits of a Channell into a very good Harbour. This Island is +very remarkable on account of a high Craggy hill upon it, which +Terminates at Top in 2 Peaks, one higher than the other; this hill is so +perpendicular that it appears to be quite inaccessible. The land on +Ulietea and Otaha is of a very hilly, broken, and uneven surface, except +what borders upon the Sea Coast, and high withall, yet the Hills look +green and pleasant and are in many places cloathed with woods.</p> + +<p>The Produce of these Islands, and manners and Customs of the Natives are +much the same as at King George's Island, only as the Bread fruit Tree is +here in not such plenty, the natives to supply that deficiency plant and +Cultivate a greater Quantity of Plantains and Yams of several sorts, and +these they have in the greatest Perfection.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants are rather of a fairer Colour than the Generality of the +Natives of George's Island, but more especially the Women, who are much +fairer and handsomer, and the Men are not so much Addicted to thieving, +and are more Open and free in their behaviour.</p> + +<p>The only differance we could see in their Religion was in the Houses of +their Gods, which were very different to those we saw on George's Island. +Those here were made about the Size and shape of a Coffin open at one +End; they are laid upon a Number of small Wooden Arches, which are fram'd +and fastned together like the Roof of a House, and these are generally +supported about 3 or 4 feet above the ground by Posts. Over the box is a +small roof or shade made of Palm thatch; in this Box are deposited the +Oblations of the Gods, such as Pieces of Cloth, Human bone, etc., and +these places they hold sacred, and some are placed in their Mories, and +some not. They have a Custom of preserving the Sculls and under Jaw bones +of the Dead, but wether of their Friends or Enemies I cannot pretend to +say. Several of the Sculls, we observed, were broke, and its very +probable that the owners of them had been kill'd in battle, as some of +their Weapons are well Calculated for breaking of Heads; and from what we +could learn it is a Custom with them to cut out the Lower jaw of their +Enemies, but I believe not before they are kill'd, and these they keep as +Trophies, and are sometimes hung up in their Houses.</p> + +<p>The Chief or King of Bolabola hath of late Years Usurped the Sovereignty +of the other two, and the Bolabola men at this time possess great part of +the Lands on Ulietea and Otaha that they have taken from the Natives. The +Lands adjoining to the Harbours of Oraotanue belong'd to Tupia, the +Person we have on board, who is a Native of Ulietea. These people are +very ingenious in building their Proes or Canoes, and seem to take as +much Care of them, having large Shades or Houses to put them in, built +for the purpose, and in these houses they likewise build and repair them, +and in this they shew a great deal of ingenuity far more than one could +expect. They are built full Bellied, and after the very same Model as +those Six we saw on George's Island, which I have already described, and +some of them are full as large; it is more than probable that these 6 +Proes were built at some of these Islands. In these Proes, or Pahies as +they call them, from all the accounts we can learn, these people sail in +those Seas from Island to Island for several hundred Leagues, the Sun +serving them for a Compass by day, and the Moon and Stars by night. When +this comes to be proved, we shall be no longer at a loss to know how the +Islands lying in those Seas came to be peopled; for if the inhabitants of +Ulietea have been at Islands laying 2 or 300 Leagues to the Westward of +them, it cannot be doubted but that the inhabitants of those Western +Islands may have been at others as far to Westward of them, and so we may +trace them from Island to Island quite to the East Indies.</p> + +<p>Tupia tells us that during the months of November, December, and January +Westerly winds, with rain, prevail; and as the inhabitants of the Islands +know very well how to make the proper use of the winds, there will no +difficulty arise in Trading or Sailing from Island to Island, even tho' +they lie in an East and West direction.* (* This paragraph is from the +Admiralty copy of Cook's Journal. This fact is now well known. The +islands here described, the Society Islands of Cook, and now known as the +Leeward Group of the Society Islands, were generally under the dominion +of Tahiti. At the time of Cook's visit, the chief of Bolabola was supreme +over most of the group, and their tie to Tahiti was but slight. They are +all very beautiful and fertile. Within the last decade they have formally +been recognised as belonging to France.)</p> + +<p>[Sail from Society Islands.]</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE OCCURRENCES IN THE SOUTH SEAS.</p> + +<p>Thursday, August 10th. P.M., Light Airs and Calm, remainder fresh breezes +and Cloudy. At 6 p.m. the South end of Ulietea South-East 1/2 East, +distant 4 Leagues; but I take my departure from the +Harbour, saild from in Latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes South, and +Longitude 151 degrees 27 minutes West. At 7 a.m. found the Variation to +be 5 degrees 50 minutes East. Wind Easterly; course South 16 degrees +West; distance 50 miles; Latitude observed 17 degrees 34 minutes South, +longitude 151 degrees 41 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 11th. Fresh breezes and Clear weather. Wind East; course South 4 +degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes South, +longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 12th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Wind East, East by +North; course South 3/4 East; distance 77 miles; latitude 20 degrees 15 +minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 13th. Moderate breezes and Clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 40 +minutes East. Wind East by North; course South 16 degrees East; distance +96 miles; latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes South, longitude 151 degrees 9 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 14th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw land bearing +South-East, which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa.* (* Rurutu, one of +the Tubuai or Austral Group. They are now under French protectorate.) At +6 was within 2 or 3 Leagues of it, the Extreams bearing from South by +East to South-East; shortned sail and stood off and on all night; at 6 +a.m. made Sail and stood in for the Land and run to Leeward of the +Island, keeping close in shore all the time, saw several of the Natives +as we run along shore, but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the +Pinnace and sent Lieutenant Gore, Mr. Banks, and Tupia to Endeavour to +land upon the Island, and to speak with the Natives, and to try if they +could learn from them what lands lay to the Southward of us, and likewise +to see if there was Anchorage in a Bay which appear'd to our View, not +that I intended to Anchor or make any stay here. Wind North-North-East; +latitude 22 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 55 minutes +West; at noon, Ohetiroa East 2 leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 15th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. the Pinnace +return'd on board without landing, not but what it was practicable, but +they did not think it Altogether safe with only one Boat, as it would +have been attended with some danger on account of the Surf and Rocks upon +the Shore. The Natives were Arm'd, and Shewd no Signs either of fear or +Friendship. Some of them came off to the Boat in a Canoe, and had some +Nails and Beads given them; but with these they were not Satisfied, +thinking they had a right to everything in the Boat, and at last grew so +Troublesome that in order to get clear of them our People were obliged to +fire some Musquets, but with no intent to hurt any of them; however, it +so hapned that one Man was Slightly wounded in the head. The firing had +the desired effect, and they thought fit to retire. After this, as the +Boat lay near the Shore, some of them waded off to her, and brought with +them some Trifles which they parted with for small Nails, etc. They +seem'd desirous that our people should land, but this was looked upon as +a Piece of Policy in them to get the whole Boat's Crew in their power; +however, this was not attempted, as I had given orders to run no Risk. +The Bay they went into, which lies on the West side of the Island, had in +it 25 fathoms Water, but the bottom was very foul and Rocky. We had now +made the Circuit of the Island (which did not appear to the best +advantage), and found that there was neither a Harbour or safe Anchorage +about it, and therefore I thought the Landing upon it would be attended +with no advantage either to ourselves or any future navigators; and from +the Hostile and thievish disposition of the Natives it appear'd that we +could have no friendly intercourse with them until they had felt the +Smart of our fire Arms, a thing that would have been very unjustifiable +in me at this Time; we therefore hoisted in the Boat, and made Sail to +the Southward.</p> + +<p>[Of the Austral Group.]</p> + +<p>This Island is situated in the Latitude of 22 degrees 27 minutes South, +and in the Longitude of 150 degrees 47 minutes West from the Meridian of +Greenwich.* (* Latitude is correct. Longitude 151 degrees 20 minutes +West.) It is 13 miles in Circuit, and tolerably high; it appears to be +neither Populous nor fertile; its produce seem'd to be nearly the same as +the other Islands we have touched at, and likewise the Stature, Colour, +Habit, and Arms of the Natives, only that some of them wore Pieces of +Cloth like broad belts, different both in Shape and Colour to anything of +the kind we had seen before, and their Arms, and in general everything +they had about them, much neater made, and shew'd great proofs of an +ingenious fancy. Tupia says that their are several Islands laying at +different directions from this--that is, from the South to the West and +North-West--and that 3 days' sail to the North-East is an Island called +Manua, that is Bird Island, and that it lies 4 days' sail from Ulietea, +which is one day less than from Ulietea to Ohetiroa.* (* Tupia was right +except with respect to Manua, as there is no island answering his +description.) From this account I shall be able to find the Situation of +Manua pretty well. Since we have left Ulietea Tupia hath been very +desirous for us to steer to the Westward, and tells us if we will go that +way we shall be with plenty of Islands: the most of them he himself hath +been at, and from the discription he gives of two of them they must be +those discover'd by Capt. Wallace, and by him called Boscawen and +Keppel's Islands, and those do not lay less than 400 Leagues to the +Westward of Ulietea. He says that they are 10 or 12 days in going +thither, and 30 or more in coming Back, and that their Pahies--that is +their large Proes--sails much faster than this Ship. All this I believe +to be true, and therefore they may with Ease sail 40 Leagues a day or +more.</p> + +<p>The farthest Island to the Southward that Tupia hath been at, or knows +anything of, lies but 2 days' Sail from Ohetiroa, and is called Moutou,* +(* Tubuai.) but he says that his father once told him that there was +Islands to the Southward of it; but we Cannot find that he either knows +or ever heard of a Continent or large Track of Land. I have no reason to +doubt Tupia's information of these Islands, for when we left Ulietea and +steer'd to the Southward he told us that if we would keep a little more +to the East (which the wind would not permit us to do) we should see +Manua, but as we then steer'd we should see Ohetiroa, which hapned +accordingly. If we meet with the Islands to the Southward he speaks off, +it's well, but if not, I shall spend no more time searching for them, +being now fully resolv'd to stand directly to the Southward in search of +a Continent. Wind Northerly; course South 1/2 East; distance 94 miles; +latitude 24 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 150 degrees 37 minutes +West; at noon, Ohetiroa North 1/2 West, 31 leagues; variation 6 degrees 7 +minutes East.</p> + +<p>NOTE. As we advanced to the Southward into Cold weather, and a troubled +Sea, the Hogs we got at Ulietea began to die apace. They cannot endure +the least cold, nor will they hardly eat anything but vegetables, so that +they are not at all to be depended upon at Sea. The fowls also have a +complaint general among them which affects their heads, so that they +continue holding it down betwixt their Legs until they die; this at least +was the fate of most of ours. This is necessary to be known to those who +come such Voyages as these, least they place too much dependance on the +live stock they get at the Islands.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 16th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy the first part; in the night, +Squally, with rain; remainder, moderate and fair weather. At 8 am, saw +the Appearances of high land to the Eastward; bore up towards it, but at +10 we discover'd it to be only Clouds, at which we hauld our wind to the +Southward. At Noon found the Ship by Observation 21 Miles to the +Northward of the Log, which may in some measure be owing to a South-West +swell we have had all the last 24 hours. Wind North by West, West, West +by South; course South 15 degrees East; distance 62 miles; latitude 25 +degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 150 degrees 19 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 17th. A Gentle breeze with some flying showers of rain. Had a +large Swell from the South-West all this day, much larger than yesterday, +and this must be the reason why the observ'd Latitude differ'd from the +Log again to day 16 miles. Wind West by South to South-West by South; +course South-South-East; distance 76 miles; latitude 26 degrees 10 +minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 18th. The first part Calm; remainder light breezes and Clear. +Variation per Amplitude in the evening 8 degrees 8 minutes East; in the +Morning 7 degrees 56 minutes East. Carpenters employed repairing the +Boats. The South-West swell still Continues, but not so much as +Yesterday, and the observed Latitude and Log agrees. Wind Calm, North; +course South 18 degrees East; distance 38 miles; latitude 26 degrees 48 +minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 19th. Little wind with much rain in the night, the South-West +swell still Continues, from which I conclude that there is no land near +us in that Quarter. Wind North-West; course South-East by South; distance +62 miles; latitude 27 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 149 degrees 6 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 20th. Little wind all this day. Saw a large Albetross. Wind +North-West; course South-East by South; distance 57 miles; latitude 28 +degrees 24 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 25 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Hazey weather. Saw 2 Pintado Birds, the +first I have seen this Voyage; they are larger than a Pidgeon and +checquer'd black and white over their backs and wings, with white +Bellies, Black heads, and the end of their Tails black.* (* Cape pigeons, +Daption Capensis.) Wind North-North-West; course South by East; distance +80 miles; latitude 29 degrees 44 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 22 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Society Islands to New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 22nd. First part Strong Gales with much rain, Thunder, and +Lightning; remainder moderate and fair weather. About Noon saw some rock +weed, an Albetross, and some Smaller Sea Birds. Wind North by West, +South-West by West; course South 14 degrees East; distance 81 miles; +latitude 31 degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 148 degrees 00 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 23rd. Little wind for the most part, and pretty clear weather. +In the night had some Showers of rain. Saw a Grampus, and several Pintado +Birds. Wind South-West to West-South-West; course South-South-East; +distance 68 miles; latitude 31 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 147 +degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 24th. The first part light Airs and Calm; Middle, moderate +breezes and Cloudy; latter part very squally with rain. A.M. Variation +per Azimuth 7 degrees 18 minutes East. At Noon took in the Topsails and +got down Topgallant yards. Saw a Water Spout in the North-West; it was +about the breadth of a Rainbow, of a dark Colour, the Upper end of the +Cloud from whence it came was about 8 degrees above the Horizon. Wind +Variable; course South-South-East; distance 41 miles; latitude 32 degrees +44 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 25th. The first and middle part Strong Gales and Squally with +rain, remainder moderate and Cloudy. P.M. Unbent the Maintopsail being +Split and bent another; in the night lay too under the Foresail, and in +the morning made sail under the Courses and Topsails with one reef only. +Had a large Sea from the Southward, saw several Albetrosses, Pintado +Birds, and Sheer Waters; some of the Albetrosses were small, such as we +usually saw off Cape Horn; all these kinds of birds are generally seen at +a great distance from land. Wind, Southerly; course North-West; distance +26 miles; latitude 32 degrees 26 minutes South; longitude 147 degrees 32 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 26th. Moderate and cloudy weather, a Swell from the South-West. +By observation of the Sun and Moon made this morning, the Longitude of +the Ship at Noon is 147 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds, which differs but +11 minutes from that given by the Log. Wind South-West; course South 6 +degrees East; South distance 13 miles; latitude 32 degrees 39 minutes +South, longitude 147 degrees 30 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 27th. First part little wind and Cloudy; latter part, fresh Gales +and Clear weather. Variation per Azimuth 6 degrees 40 minutes East. Saw +several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds and Sheer Waters. Wind West, +North-North-West; course South 5 degrees East; distance 55 miles; +latitude 33 degrees 34 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes.</p> + +<p>Monday, 28th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with rain on the Latter part. At 10 +departed this Life Jno. Rearden,* (* John Reading.) Boatswain's Mate; his +Death was occasioned by the Boatswain out of mere good Nature giving him +part of a Bottle of Rum last night, which it is supposed he drank all at +once. He was found to be very much in Liquor last night, but as this was +no more than what was common with him when he could get any, no farther +notice was taken of him than to put him to Bed, where this morning about +8 o'clock he was found Speechless and past recovery. Wind Northerly; +course South; distance 110 miles; latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes South, +longitude 147 degrees 25 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 29th. Fore and Middle parts fresh Gales and Dark, Hazey weather +with some rain. At 5 a.m. saw a Comet in the North. Wind North-West to +South-West; course South 1/4 East; distance 96 miles; latitude 37 degrees +0 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 21 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 30th. Fresh breeze and fair weather. At 1 a.m. saw the Comet a +little above the Horizon in the East. It pass'd the Meridian about 1/2 +past 4; the Tail of the Comet Subtended an Angle of 42 degrees. At 8 a.m. +Variation per Azimuth 7 degrees 9 minutes East. Bent another suit of +Sails. Saw a piece of Rock weed, Some Pintado birds and Sheer Waters and +a Green bird something smaller than a Dove, but it was not near enough to +distinguish whether it was a Sea or Land bird; it was only seen by one +Person, and he probably was Mistaken in the Colour. A Swell from the +South-West, Wind Westerly; course South 3/4 East; distance 81 miles; +latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 6 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 31st. The first part a fresh breeze and cloudy. At 6 p.m. hauld +the wind to the South-West and close reefd the Topsails. At 1 a.m. being +very squally with rain, took in the Topsails and brought too under the +Mainsail. At 6 made Sail under the Courses. Saw some seaweed, sounded, +but had no ground at 65 fathoms of Line. Some Albetrosses, Sheer Waters, +and a great many Pintado Birds about the Ship with some hundreds of Birds +that were smaller than Pidgeons, their backs were grey, their Bellies +white, and the ends of their Tails black, and have a blackish line along +the upper parts of the wings from the Tip of one to the other. We saw +birds very like those near Faulklands Islands on the Coast of Patagonia, +only they had not the black streak along the wings; they fly low like +sheer waters or mother Carys birds, and are perhaps of the same Tribe, +for Distinction sake I shall call them Doves.* (* Probably petrels of the +genus Prion.) Wind Westerly; course South 4 degrees 15 minutes East; +distance 68 miles; latitude 39 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 147 +degrees 0 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[September 1769.]</p> + +<p>Friday, September 1st. Very strong Gales and heavy Squalls with rain; at +6 p.m. brought too under the Main Sail. At 6 a.m. set the Foresail, a +Great Sea from the Westward. The same sort of Birds about the Ship as +Yesterday, but not in such great Numbers. Wind, Westerly; Course, South +29 degrees East; distance 50 miles; latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, +longitude 146 degrees 29 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 2nd. Very strong Gales, with heavy squalls of Wind, hail, and +rain. At 4 p.m., being in the Latitude of 40 degrees 22 minutes South, +and having not the least Visible signs of land, we wore, and brought too +under the Foresail, and reef'd the Mainsail, and handed it. I did intend +to have stood to the Southward if the winds had been Moderate, so long as +they continued Westerly, notwithstanding we had no prospect of meeting +with land, Rather than stand back to the Northward, on the same Track as +we came, but as the weather was so very Tempestious I laid aside this +design, and thought it more adviseable to stand to the Northward into +better weather, least we should receive such Damage in our Sails and +Rigging as might hinder the further Prosecutions of the Voyage.* (* This +long excursion to the south is a fine instance of Cook's thoroughness and +determination in exploration. The belief in a southern continent was +strong amongst most geographers; but it rested on nothing more than the +false idea that dry lands in the two hemispheres should balance one +another. Cook himself did not share the general belief; and few others in +his position would have struggled for 1500 miles out of his direct course +into bad weather, simply to disprove an idea, when so much unexplored +ocean lay before him to the westward, with a fair wind and fine weather.) +Some Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Doves about the Ship, and a Bird +larger than a Duck, his plumage of a Dark Brown, with a Yellow beak. We +saw of these Birds in our Passage to the Northward, after doubling Cape +Horn. At Noon the weather was more moderate; set the Reefd Mainsail. A +great Sea from the West-South-West. Wind West; Course North 54 degrees 30 +minutes East; distance 46 miles; latitude 39 degrees 45 minutes South, +longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 3rd. The fore and Middle parts fresh gales, with hard Squalls; +Latter more moderate. At 5 a.m. loos'd the Reef out of the Mainsail, and +set the Topsail double reef'd, and before noon had all the Reefs out. +Wind Westerly; course North; distance 50 miles; latitude 38 degrees 54 +minutes South, longitude 145 degrees 39 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 4th. First and latter parts, little wind and Cloudy; in the night +Calm. Very few Birds about the Ship. Wind Westerly; course North by East; +distance 26 miles; latitude 38 degrees 29 minutes South, longitude 145 +degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy weather. At 2 p.m. saw a piece of +rock Weed. Variation, per Azimuth 7 degrees 0 minutes East. Wind West to +North-West; course North 32 West; distance 44 miles; latitude 37 degrees +52 minutes South, longitude 146 degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th. Fresh Gales and Squally, with rain. At Noon saw a Bird +which was all white, except the Tip of each Wing; it was nearly as big as +an Albetross. We saw 2 of these Birds in Latitude 19 degrees before we +Arrived at George's Island. Wind Westerly; course South 87 degrees 30 +minutes West; distance 70 miles; latitude 37 degrees 49 minutes South, +longitude 147 degrees 30 West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. Fresh Gales and hard squalls, with rain. At 3 p.m. saw +something upon the Water, which must either have been a Billet of Wood or +a Seal. At Noon a hard gale and Squally, which obliged us to take in the +Topsails. Wind Westerly; course South 80 degrees West; distance 15 miles; +latitude 37 degrees 52 minutes South, longitude 147 degrees 49 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 8th. P.M. very strong gales and Squally. A.M. more moderate; set +the Topsails. At Noon the Observed Latitude was 13 Miles to the North of +the Log. This I take to be owing to the great Sea we have had constantly +of Late from the South-West. Wind Westerly; course North 1/4 East; +distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes South, longitude 147 +degrees 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 9th. Moderate breezes and dark, cloudy weather, sometimes +Hazey, with Drizling Rain. Wind South-East; course North 77 degrees West; +distance 76 miles; latitude 36 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 149 +degrees 12 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and cloudy. At 9 a.m. we thought the Colour +of the Sea was paler than Usual, which occasioned us to sound, but had no +ground with 100 fathoms. Wind South-West, West-South-West; course North +52 degrees West; distance 97 miles; latitude 35 degrees 19 minutes South, +longitude 150 degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 11th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part thick, hazey weather, +with rain. Wind South-West; course North 43 degrees West; distance 87 +miles; latitude 34 degrees 15 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 00 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 12th. Fresh breezes and cloudy; a swell from the +South-South-West. Some Albetrosses and Pintado Birds about the Ship. Wind +Westerly; course North 30 degrees West; distance 73 miles; latitude 33 +degrees 12 minutes South, longitude 152 degrees 44 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 13th. Gentle breezes, with some flying Showers. At 6 p.m. +Variation per Azimuth, 8 degrees 8 minutes East. Note, while we was +between the Latitude of 37 and 40 degrees we had constantly blowing +Tempestious weather, but since we have been to the Northward of 37 +degrees, the weather hath been very moderate. Wind South-West and +West-South-West; course North-North-West; distance 74 miles; latitude 32 +degrees 3 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 14th. Gentle breezes, and sometimes Calm. A Swell from the +South-South-West. Wind Variable; course South 86 degrees West; distance +33 miles; latitude 32 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 153 degrees 54 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 15th. First part, moderate and Cloudy, remainder Strong Gales and +Squally. Several Albetrosses, Pintado Birds, and Sheer Waters about the +Ship; some of the Albetrosses were all White. Wind North-East to +South-East; course South 77 West; distance 139 miles; latitude 32 degrees +36 minutes South, longitude 156 degrees 34 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 16th. First part very strong Gales and Squally; remainder more +moderate, with a large Swell from the Southward. Wind South-South-East, +South, West-South-West; course North 60 degrees West; distance 100 miles; +latitude 31 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 158 degrees 16 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 17th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Wind South-West; course North 25 +West; distance 100 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude +159 degrees 6 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 18th. Moderate Gales and Cloudy, with a Swell from the Southward. +Wind Westerly; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 78 miles; latitude +29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 19th. Variable; light Airs and Calm. Variation per Amplitude at +sunset, 8 degrees 36 minutes East; per Azimuth in the morning, 8 degrees +29 minutes East; mean, 8 degrees 32 1/2 minutes East. A large hollow +swell from the Southward. Wind Variable; course East; distance 6 miles; +latitude 29 degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 159 degrees 25 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. Light Airs and Calm. Wind Variable; course South-West by +South; distance 20 miles; latitude 29 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude +159 degrees 47 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 21st. Most part Gentle breezes and clear weather. Wind South +Easterly; course South 50 degrees West; distance 62 miles; latitude 30 +degrees 00 minutes South, longitude 160 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 22nd. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. The Southerly swell still +Continues, from which I conjecture that there is no land near in that +Direction. Wind South-East; course South 34 West; distance 81 miles; +latitude 31 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 161 degrees 35 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. Wind South-East; +course South-West by South; distance 62 miles; latitude 31 degrees 59 +minutes South, longitude 162 degrees 44 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 24th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy. At Noon saw some sea-Weed. The +Southerly swell is now quite gone down. Wind South-East to North-East; +course South 35 West; distance 97 miles; latitude 33 degrees 18 minutes +South, longitude 162 degrees 51 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 25th. Ditto weather. At 1 p.m. passed by a Piece of Wood, about 3 +feet long and 7 or 8 Inches thick. Variation at 6 p.m. per Azimuth, 10 +degrees 48 minutes East. A.M., got up all the Boatswain's Stores, to take +an account of them. Wind North-East; course South 43 1/2 West; distance +103 miles; latitude 34 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 165 degrees 10 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 26th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. Wind North-North-East; +course South-West; distance 136 miles; latitude 36 degrees 9 minutes +South, longitude 167 degrees 14 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 27th. Very strong Gales and hazey, with rain the First and +Middle part; Latter, moderate and clear weather. In the evening took in +the Topsails and Mainsail, and lay too with her head to the Westward +under the Foresail. During the night, at 4 a.m., made Sail. Saw several +Pieces of Sea Weed at different times this 24 Hours. Wind North by East, +Westerly; course South 28 West; distance 95 miles; latitude 37 degrees 33 +minutes South, longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 28th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and Cloudy; Latter +part, very strong Gales and Squally. At 4 p.m. saw a Seal aSleep upon the +Water, and some Weed. A.M. saw several bunches of Sea Weed and a few +Albetrosses and Sheer Waters. Wind Westerly; course South 21 degrees +West; distance 92 miles; latitude 38 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude +169 degrees 5 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 29th. The first part strong Gales and Squally; remainder a fresh +breeze and settled weather. At 1 p.m. was obliged to take in the +Topsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 a.m. saw a Bird something like a +Snipe, only it had a short bill; it had the appearance of a land bird. +Several Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship, and +a Number of Doves; of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31st +of last Month, the day we first saw them. Wind South-West; course North +59 degrees West; distance 60 miles; latitude 38 degrees 30 minutes South, +longitude 170 degrees 14 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes and Settled weather. Saw a dark brown +bird as big as a Raven; it is a Sea Fowl, and are seen in great Numbers +about the Faulkland Islands, as I am told. We likewise saw several pieces +of Sea Weed. Wind South Easterly; course North 87 1/2 West; distance 90 +miles; latitude 38 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 20 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>[October 1769.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, October 1st. Little Wind in the day time and Calm in the Night. +At 8 a.m. sounded: no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw an immence +number of Birds, the most of them were Doves; saw likewise a Seal aSleep +upon the Water, which we at first took for a Crooked billet. These +creatures, as they lay upon the Water, hold their fins up in a very odd +manner, and very different to any I have seen before; we generally reckon +that seals never go out of Soundings or far from Land, but the few we +have seen in this Sea is certainly an exception to that rule. However, +one would think that we were not far from some land, from the Pieces of +Rock weed we see daily floating upon the Water. To-day we took up a small +Piece of Stick, but to all appearance it had been a long time at Sea. The +observ'd Latitude is considerable to the Northward of that given by the +Log, in so much that I think there must be some Current seting from the +Southward. Wind South to West by North; course North 16 degrees West; +distance 43 miles; latitude 37 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 172 +degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 2nd. Little wind. At 3 p.m. hoisted out a Boat to try the +Current, but found none. Saw several Grampusses. A.M. had a Boat in the +Water, and Mr. Banks shott an Albetross which measured 10 feet 8 Inches +from the tip of Wing to the other. He likewise shott 2 birds that were +very much like Ducks, excepting their head and Bill; their plumage were +dark brown. We first saw some of these birds in the Latitude of 40 +degrees South, after our first coming into those Seas. Wind +West-South-West, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 35 miles; +latitude 37 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 54 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 3rd. Little wind and sometimes Calm. A.M. Variation per Azimuth +13 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw some fish like a Skip Jack, and a small +sort that appeared very Transparent. Took up a very small piece of wood +with Barnacles upon it, a proof that it hath been some time at Sea. Some +very large Albetrosses about the Ship and other birds. The observed +Latitude is 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, and it +was the same Yesterday, which I think is a Proof that there must be a +Current setting to the Northward, notwithstanding we did not find any +when we try'd it. Wind Southerly; course North 60 degrees West; distance +28 miles; latitude 36 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude 173 degrees 27 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 4th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. Variation per +Azimuth 12 degrees 48 minutes East; sounded twice, but found no ground, +with 120 fathoms of line. Saw some rock weed, but not in such plenty as +of late. Wind South-East; course South 52 1/2 West; distance 86 miles; +latitude 37 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 175 degrees 00 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 5th. Light, gentle breezes and Clear weather. P.M. saw one of +the same sort of Birds as we saw last Saturday. These birds are of a dark +brown or Chocolate Colour, with some white feathers under their wings, +and are as big as Ravens. Mr. Gore says that they are in great plenty at +Port Egmont in Faulklands Islands, and for that reason calls them Port +Egmont Hens. Saw a great many Porpoisses, large and Small; the small ones +had white bellies and Noses. A.M. saw 2 Port Egmont Hens, a Seal, some +sea Weed, and a Piece of wood with Barnacles upon it. Wind South-East to +East-North-East; course South 49 1/2 West; distance 63 miles; latitude 38 +degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 176 degrees 3 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 6th. Little wind, and fine pleasant weather. Saw some Seals, sea +weed, and Port Egmont Hens. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 50 +minutes East. Per Amplitude 12 degrees 40 minutes. A.M. per Azimuth 14 +degrees 2 minutes East; the difference is 1 degree 3 minutes, and the +Ship has only gone 9 Leagues in the Time. The Colour of the water appears +to be paler than common, and hath been so for some days past; this makes +us sound frequently, but can find no ground with 180 fathoms of Line. +Wind East-North-East; course South-West; distance 62 miles; latitude 39 +degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 177 degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Make New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 7th. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 p.m. saw land* (* +The North island of New Zealand.) from the Masthead bearing West by +North, which we stood directly for, and could but just see it of the Deck +at sunset. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude 15 degrees 4 1/2 minutes +East; by observation of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon the +Longitude of the Ship is 180 degrees 55 minutes West, by the mean of +these and Subsequent observations the Error of the Ship's account in +Longitude from George's Island is 3 degrees 16 minutes; that is, so much +to the Westward of the Longitude resulting from the Log, which is what is +inserted in the Columns. At Midnight brought too and sounded, but had no +ground with 170 fathoms. At daylight made sail in for the Land, at Noon +it bore from South-West to North-West by North, distant 8 Leagues. +Latitude observed 38 degrees 57 minutes South; Wind North-East, +South-East, Variable; course South 70 degrees West; distance 41 miles; +latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes observed South; longitude 177 degrees 54 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 5 p.m., seeing the +opening of a Bay that appear'd to run pretty far inland, hauld our wind +and stood in for it; but as soon as night came on we keept plying on and +off until day light, when we found ourselves to leeward of the Bay, the +wind being at North. By Noon we fetch'd in with the South-West point, but +not being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bay +several Canoes, People upon the Shore, and some houses in the Country. +The land on the Sea Coast is high, with Steep Cliffs; and back inland are +very high Mountains. The face of the Country is of a hilly surface, and +appears to be cloathed with wood and Verdure. Wind between the +East-North-East and North.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch5"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NORTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.</h2> + +<p>[October 1769. At Poverty Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood into +the Bay and Anchored on the North-East side before the Entrance of a +small River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situated +on its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-East +point of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West point +South, distance from the Shore half a League. After this I went ashore +with a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks and +Dr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of the +River just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side of +the River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that we +could not ford the River, I order'd the yawl in to carry us over, and the +pinnace to lay at the Entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off. +However we went as far as their Hutts which lay about 2 or 300 Yards from +the water side, leaving 4 boys to take care of the Yawl, which we had no +sooner left than 4 Men came out of the woods on the other side the River, +and would certainly have cut her off had not the People in the Pinnace +discover'd them and called to her to drop down the Stream, which they +did, being closely persued by the Indians. The coxswain of the Pinnace, +who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this, fir'd 2 Musquets over their +Heads; the first made them stop and Look round them, but the 2nd they +took no notice of; upon which a third was fir'd and kill'd one of them +upon the Spot just as he was going to dart his spear at the Boat. At this +the other 3 stood motionless for a Minute or two, seemingly quite +surprised; wondering, no doubt, what it was that had thus kill'd their +Comrade; but as soon as they recovered themselves they made off, dragging +the Dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the report +of the Musquets we immediately repair'd to the Boats, and after viewing +the Dead body we return'd on board. In the morning, seeing a number of +the Natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went on +shore with the Boats, mann'd and arm'd, and landed on the opposite side +of the river. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself only landed at first, +and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on the +opposite side. We called to them in the George's Island Language, but +they answer'd us by flourishing their weapons over their heads and +dancing, as we suppos'd, the War Dance; upon this we retir'd until the +Marines were landed, which I order'd to be drawn up about 200 yards +behind us. We went again to the river side, having Tupia, Mr. Green, and +Dr. Monkhouse along with us. Tupia spoke to them in his own Language, and +it was an agreeable surprize to us to find that they perfectly understood +him. After some little conversation had passed one of them swam over to +us, and after him 20 or 30 more; these last brought their Arms, which the +first man did not. We made them every one presents, but this did not +satisfy them; they wanted everything we had about us, particularly our +Arms, and made several attempts to snatch them out of our hands. Tupia +told us several times, as soon as they came over, to take care of +ourselves for they were not our friends; and this we very soon found, for +one of them snatched Mr. Green's hanger from him and would not give it +up; this encouraged the rest to be more insolent, and seeing others +coming over to join them, I order'd the man who had taken the Hanger to +be fir'd at, which was accordingly done, and wounded in such a manner +that he died soon after. Upon the first fire, which was only 2 Musquets, +the others retir'd to a Rock which lay nearly in the middle of the River; +but on seeing the man fall they return'd, probably to carry him off or +his Arms, the last of which they accomplished, and this we could not +prevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them, for upon their +returning from off the Rock, we had discharged off our Peices, which were +loaded with small shott, and wounded 3 more; but these got over the River +and were carried off by the others, who now thought proper to retire. +Finding nothing was to be done with the People on this side, and the +water in the river being salt, I embarked with an intent to row round the +head of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprise +some of the Natives and to take them on board, and by good Treatment and +Presents endeavour to gain their friendship with this view.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 10th. P.M., I rowed round the head of the bay, but could find no +place to land on account of the Great Surf which beat everywhere upon the +Shore. Seeing 2 Boats or Canoes coming in from Sea I rowed to one of +them, in order to Seize upon the People; and came so near before they +took notice of us that Tupia called to them to come alongside and we +would not hurt them; but instead of doing this they endeavour'd to get +away, upon which I order'd a Musquet to be fir'd over their Heads, +thinking this would either make them surrender, or jump overboard; but +here I was mistaken, for they immediately took to their Arms or whatever +they had in the Boat, and began to attack us. This obliged us to fire +upon them, and unfortunately either 2 or 3 were kill'd and one wounded, +and 3 jumped overboard. These last we took up and brought on board, where +they was Cloathed and Treated with all imaginable kindness; and to the +Surprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they +had been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest not +above 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware that +most Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will +Censure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do I +myself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at all +justify me; and had I thought that they would have made the Least +Resistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not to +stand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to be +knocked on the head.</p> + +<p>In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ashore, and stay +here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, I +sent an Officer ashore with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood, +and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, +and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West side +of the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us, +pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who +would kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord left +us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'd +several bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir'd +aCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Natives +we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to +their own people. We had no sooner got over the River than the others +assembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm'd. Tupia +now began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew'd everything +we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of the +Man that was Kill'd the day before. These things seem'd so far to +Convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us, +while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man a +present, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him with +such things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, he +retir'd aCross the River. I now thought proper to take everybody on +board, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whom +we could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear'd the more +strange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. After +we had return'd on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the one +that was Kill'd the first evening we Landed remain'd in the very spot +they had left him.</p> + +<p>[Leave Poverty Bay.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, we +put the 3 Youths ashore, seemingly very much against their inclination; +but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or the +fear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, I +know not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw them +carried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with the +other Natives. At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which I +have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted +(Latitude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes +West).* (* Latitude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.) +It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying close +under the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance are +high, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leagues +from Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West. The Depth of +Water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and good +Anchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East. +Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tide +in fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the Sea +Sometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, which +hapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generally +land on the North-East side of the river. The shore of this Bay, from a +little within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only a +Narrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills +and Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearance +well inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, where +we daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in the +Country are very high Mountains. At Noon the South-West point of Poverty +Bay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first saw +this land),* (* In Mr. Molineux's Log, his name is given as Nicholas +Young, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North by +West, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the +Shore, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-East +by North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coast +to the Southward, as far as the Latitude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then to +return to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to +proceed farther.</p> + +<p>[Off Portland Island, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequent +Calms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm'd, several Canoes came off +to the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come from +a different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her all +the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those had +met with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board without +hesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into a +Traffick with our People for George's Island Cloth, etc.; giving in +Exchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly left +themselves a sufficient number to paddle ashore; nay, the people in one +Canoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer'd to sell the Canoe. After +a stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 were +left on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, what +was more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with their +situation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, we +steer'd along Shore, under an easy sail, until midnight, then brought +too. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o'Clock a.m., when +a breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along shore +South-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14 +degrees 46 minutes East. About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship, +one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3 +people we had had on board all night, who now seem'd glad of the +opportunity to get ashore. As the People in the Canoe were a little shy +at first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on to +intice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men; +from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among +them. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land set +yesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. This +point I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. It +lies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Latitude of 39 +degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is of +a moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flat +at Top. In steering along shore to the Southward of the Cape, at the +distance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms, +having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water, +laying between us and the Shore. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20 +degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the +Southermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles. +This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very great +resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from +a Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extending +nearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other. North 57 degrees +East, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rock +whereon the sea breaks; we passed between this Rock and the land having +17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Natives +assembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on the +Main land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in square +Plantations.</p> + +<p>Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover'd land behind or to the Westward of +Portland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In hauling +round the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and broken +ground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes came +off to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our stern +threatning of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might be +obliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would be +as well out of the way. I order'd a Musquet shott to be fir'd close to +one of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir'd +a little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears and +Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire. +Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having a +Gentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o'Clock and obliged us +to Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portland +bore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on the +Main bore North 1/2 East. In this last direction there runs in a deep bay +behind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land a +Peninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape is +the North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay at +Anchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things we +throw'd them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. a +breeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the Land. The +shore here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-East +Point, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it. I would gladly have +examin'd this Arm, because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, but +as I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did not +care to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50 +degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West, +distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Shore, and in this +situation had 12 fathoms water--24 fathoms have been the most Water we +have had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground. +The land near the Shore is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs and +Sandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the whole +face of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most +part Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasant +and fertile Country.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East and +North-West. Kept running down along shore at the distance of 2 or 3 miles +off. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We saw +some Canoes or Boats in shore, and several houses upon the Land, but no +harbour or Convenient watering place--the Main thing we were looking for. +In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainy +weather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In +the morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of the +great Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat +were hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as they +were ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming off +from the Shore, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send +our own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them were +between 80 and 90 men. Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship, +and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do was +to no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, but +seem'd fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and our +being obliged to fire upon them, I order'd a 4 Pounder Loaded with grape +to be fir'd a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time by +Means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir'd effect, and +not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship. +Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had into +another Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things we +gave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on board +had not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again to +threaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem'd displeased; +immediately after this they all went ashore. At Noon Latitude in per +Observation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from it +East by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, and +which is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5 +Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay South +by West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrow +sand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a pretty +large lake of Salt Water, as I suppose. On the South-East side of this +head is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland to +the Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees, +but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiond +extends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain of +Pretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sides +of these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and the +Sea the Land is Cloathed with wood.* (* The Endeavour was now off what is +called Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and the +town of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The large +sheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no sheltered +harbour for a vessel in the Endeavour's situation, but at present, +harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vessels +drawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million pounds +per annum is now exported from Napier.)</p> + +<p>[In Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point of +the Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8 +fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on all +night, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8 +to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., being +abreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came off +to us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had, +and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms. These +People behaved at first very well, until a large Arm'd boat, wherein were +22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing for +Traffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces of +Cloth, Articles they seem'd the most fond off. One Man in this Boat had +on him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous of +having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first +Owner was. I offer'd him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem'd to +jump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, but +would not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and after +that not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them all +the rest. But in a very short time they return'd again, and one of the +fishing Boats came alongside and offer'd us some more fish. The Indian +Boy Tiata, Tupia's Servant, being over the side, they seiz'd hold of him, +pull'd him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obliged +us to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jump +overboard. We brought the Ship too, lower'd a Boat into the Water, and +took him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the loss +of their lives, and many more would have suffer'd had it not been for +fear of killing the Boy. This affair occasioned my giving this point of +land the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 White +rocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the +Cape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Latitude 39 degrees 43 +minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-West +by West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them is +a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I have +named Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; we +found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring. From +Cape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this direction +we run along shore, keeping about a League off, having a steady breeze +and Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degrees +East, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25 +degrees West Latitude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Monday, 16th. First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in the +night, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. passed by a Small but a +Pretty high white Island lying close to the Shore. On this Island we saw +a good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they must +be fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw several +people upon the Shore in a small Bay on the Main within the Island. At 7 +the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and Cape +Kidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leagues +from the Shore, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight, +then made Sail along shore to the Southward. At 7 passed a pretty high +point of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from Cape +Kidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to the +Westward. At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West by +South. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West, +distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs bore +West, distant 2 miles, Latitude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South; +depth of water 32 fathoms.</p> + +<p>[Returning North from Cape Turnagain.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 17th. P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variable +light Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West and +North-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the face +of the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that the +standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable +discovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ'd +and with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to the +Northward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Northward, +having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exact +shape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, in +view of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.) At this +time we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or +12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off at +Noon I have called Cape Turnagain because here we returned. It lies in +the Latitude of 40 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 182 degrees 55 +West, and 18 Leagues South-South-West and South-South-West 1/2 West from +Cape Kidnapper. The land between them is of a very unequal height; in +some places it is high, with White Cliffs next the Sea--in others low, +with sandy beaches. The face of the Country is not nearly so well +Cloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay, but for the most part looks +like our high Downs in England, and to all appearance well inhabited, for +we saw several Villages as we run along shore, not only in the Vallies, +but on the Tops and sides of the Hills, and Smokes in other places. The +ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther than +we could see, and are every where Checquer'd with Snow. This night saw 2 +Large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must be +inhabited. At Noon Cape Kidnapper bore North 56 degrees West, distant 7 +Leagues; latitude observed 39 degrees 52 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 18th. Variable light winds and fine weather. At 4 a.m. Cape +Kidnapper bore North 32 degrees West, distant 2 Leagues. In this +situation had 62 fathoms; and when the said Cape bore West by North, +distant 3 or 4 Leagues, had 45 fathoms; Midway between the Isle of +Portland and Cape Kidnapper had 65 fathoms. At Noon the Isle of Portland +bore North-East 1/2 East, distant 4 Leagues; latitude observ'd 39 degrees +34 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 19th. The first part had Gentle breezes at East and +East-North-East; in the night, fresh Gales between the South and +South-West; dark, Cloudy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5 +P.M. Tack'd and stood to the South-East: the Isle of Portland bore +South-East, distant 3 Leagues. Soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe came +off from the Shore, wherein were 5 People. They came on board without +shewing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us the +whole night; indeed, there was no getting them away without turning them +out of the Ship by force, and that I did not care to do; but to prevent +them playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside. Two +appear'd to be Chiefs, and the other 3 their Servants. One of the Chiefs +seem'd to be of a free, open, and Gentle disposition; they both took +great notice of everything they saw, and was very thankful for what was +given them. The 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but the +other 3 Eat whatever was offer'd them. Notwithstanding that these people +had heard of the Treatment the others had meet with who had been on board +before, yet it appear'd a little strange that they should place so much +Confidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we would +or no, especially as the others we had meet with in this bay had upon +every occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At 11 brought too +until daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail. At 7 +a.m. brought too under Cape Table, and sent away the Indian Canoe. At +this Time some others were putting off from the Shore, but we did not +wait their coming, but made sail to the Northward. At Noon the +Northermost land in sight North 20 degrees East, and Young Nicks head, or +the South point of Poverty Bay, West-Northerly, near 4 Leagues. Latitude +observed 38 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds South.</p> + +<p>Friday, 20th. P.M. a fresh breeze at South-South-West; in the night, +variable light breezes, with rain; A.M. a fresh breeze at South-West. At +3 p.m. passed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable end Foreland on +account of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very point +hath to the Gable end of a House. It is made still more remarkable by a +Spir'd Rock standing a little distance from it. This head land lies from +Cape Table North 24 degrees East, distant 12 Leagues. Between them the +Shore forms a Bay, wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the former +and 8 Leagues from the Latter. From Gable end Foreland the land trends +North by East as far as we could see. The land from Poverty Bay to this +place is of a moderate but very unequal height, distinguished by Hills +and Vallies that are Cover'd with woods. We saw, as we run along shore, +several Villages, cultivated lands, and some of the Natives. In the +evening some Canoes came off to the Ship, and one Man came on board to +whom we gave a few Trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on until +daylight, and then made sail in shore in order to look into 2 Bays that +appear'd to our view about 2 Leagues to the Northward of the Foreland. +The Southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we Anchor'd about 11 +o'Clock in 7 fathoms, a black sandy bottom. The North point bore +North-East 1/2 North, distant 2 Miles, and the South Point South-East by +East, distant one Mile, and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Shore. This Bay +is not so much Shelter'd from the Sea as I at first thought it was; but +as the Natives, many of whom came about us in their Canoes, appear'd to +be of a friendly disposition, I was willing to try if we could not get a +little water on board, and to see a little into the Nature of the Country +before we proceeded further to the Northward.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 21st. We had no sooner come to an Anchor, as mentioned above, +than perceiving 2 old Men in the Canoes, who from their Garbe appear'd to +be Chiefs, these I invited on board, and they came without Hesitation. To +each I gave about 4 Yards of linnen and a Spike Nail; the linnen they +were very fond of, but the Nails they seem'd to set no Value upon. Tupia +explain'd to them the reasons of our Coming here, and that we should +neither hurt nor Molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceable +manner to us; indeed, we were under very little apprehension but what +they would, as they had heard of what hapned in Poverty Bay. Between 1 +and 2 p.m. I put off with the Boats mann'd and Arm'd in order to land to +look for fresh Water, these 2 Men along with us; but the surf running +very high, and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I returned +back to the Ship, having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes. +In the evening it fell moderate, and we landed and found 2 Small Streams +of Fresh Water, and the Natives to all appearance very friendly and +peaceable; on which account I resolved to Stay one day at least, to fill +a little water and to give Mr. Banks an opportunity to Collect a little +of the Produce of the Country. In the morning Lieutenant Gore went on +shore to superintend the Watering with a Strong party of Men, but the +getting the Casks off was so very difficult, on account of the Surf, that +it was noon before one Turn came on board.</p> + +<p>[At Tegadoo Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 22nd. P.M. light breezes and Cloudy. About or a little after Noon +several of the Natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began to +Traffick with us, our people giving them George's Island Cloth for +theirs, for they had little else to dispose of. This kind of exchange +they seem'd at first very fond of, and prefer'd the Cloth we had got at +the Islands to English Cloth; but it fell in its value above 500 p. ct. +before night. I had some of them on board, and Shew'd them the Ship, with +which they were well pleased. The same friendly disposition was observed +by those on shore, and upon the whole they behaved as well or better than +one could expect; but as the getting the Water from the Shore proved so +very Tedious on account of the Surf, I resolved upon leaving this place +in the morning, and accordingly, at 5 a.m., we weighed and put to Sea. +This Bay is called by the Natives Tegadoo;* (* Anaura Bay.) it lies in +the Latitude of 38 degrees 16 minutes South, but as it hath nothing to +recommend it I shall give no discription of it. There is plenty of Wild +Sellery, and we purchased of the Natives 10 or 15 pounds of sweet +Potatoes. They have pretty large plantations of these, but at present +they are scarce, it being too Early in the Season. At Noon the Bay of +Tegadoo bore West 1/2 South, distant 8 Leagues, and a very high double +peak'd Mountain some distance in land bore North-West by West. Latitude +observed 38 degrees 13 minutes South; Wind at North, a fresh Gale.</p> + +<p>Monday, 23rd. P.M. fresh Gales at North, and Cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd +and stood in shore; at 6 Sounded, and had 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom; +the Bay of Tegadoo bore South-West 1/2 West, distance 4 Leagues. At 8 +Tack'd in 36 fathoms, being then about 2 Leagues from land; stood off and +on all night, having Gentle breezes. At 8 a.m., being right before the +Bay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the Natives came off +to us and inform'd us that in a Bay a little to the Southward (being the +same that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh Water +and easey getting at it; and as the wind was now against us, and we +gain'd nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be better +spent in this Bay* (* Tolaga.) in getting on board a little water, and +forming some Connections with the Natives, than by keeping the Sea. With +this view we bore up for it, and sent 2 Boats in, Mann'd and Arm'd, to +Examine the Watering Place, who returned about noon and conform'd the +account the Natives had given. We then Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, fine sandy +bottom; the North point of the Bay North by East and the South point +South-East, and the watering place, which was in a Small Cove a little +within the South point of the Bay, distance one Mile.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 24th. Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soon +as the Ship was moor'd, I went ashore to Examine the watering place, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. I found the Water good and the +Place pretty Convenient, and plenty of Wood close to high Water Mark, and +the Natives to all appearance not only very friendly but ready to +Traffick with us for what little they had. Early in the morning I sent +Lieutenant Gore ashore to Superintend the Cutting wood and filling of +Water, with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the +Marines as a Guard. After breakfast I went myself, and remain'd there the +whole day; but before this Mr. Green and I took several observations of +the Sun and Moon. The mean result of them gave 180 degrees 47 minutes +West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich; but as all the +observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down this Coast +agreeable to the means of the whole. At noon I took the Sun's Meridian +Altitude with the Astronomical Quadrant, and found the Latitude 38 +degrees 22 minutes 24 seconds South.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 25th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M. set up the +Armourer's Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke. By night +we had got on board 12 Tons of Water and two or 3 Boats' loads of Wood, +and this I looked upon to be a good day's work. The Natives gave us not +the least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts of +Fish out to the Ship and Watering place, which we purchased of them with +Cloth, beads, etc.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 26th. P.M. had the winds from between the South and South-West, +fair weather; the remainder, rainy, dirty weather. Notwithstanding we +continued getting on board Wood and Water.</p> + +<p>Friday, 27th. Winds at South-West; first part rainy weather, the +remainder fair. A.M. sent the Pinnace to drudge, but she met with no +success; after this, I went and sounded the Bay. I made a Shift to land +in 2 Places, the first time in the bottom of the bay, where I went a +little way into the Country, but met with nothing extraordinary. The +other place I landed at was at the North point of the Bay, where I got as +much Sellery and Scurvy grass as loaded the Boat. This day we compleated +our Water to 70 Tons, but not wood Enough.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 28th. Gentle breezes Southerly and fine weather. Employ'd +wooding, cutting, and making of Brooms, there being a Shrub here very fit +for that purpose; and as I intended to sail in the morning some hands +were employ'd picking of Sellery to take to Sea with us. This is found +here in great plenty, and I have caused it to be boiled with Portable +Soup and Oatmeal every morning for the people's breakfast; and this I +design to continue as long as it will last, or any is to be got, and I +look upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antiscorbutick.</p> + +<p>[At Tolaga Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 29th. P.M. Gentle breezes with Thunder and Lightning up the +Country; in the night had light Airs off the land and very foggy; in the +forenoon had a gentle breeze at North-North-East and Clear weather. At 4 +a.m. unmoor'd, and at 6 weigh'd and put to Sea. At Noon the bay sail'd +from bore North 63 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. This bay is called by +the Natives Tolaga;* (* It still goes by this name.) it is moderately +large, and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathoms, clean sandy bottom and +good Anchorage, and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow +from the North-East Quarter. It lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 22 +minutes South, and 4 1/2 Leagues to the Northward of Gable end Foreland. +Off the South point lies a small but high Island, so near to the Main as +not to be distinguished from it. Close to the North end of this Island, +at the Entrance into the Bay, are 2 high Rocks; one is high and round +like a Corn Stack, but the other is long with holes thro' it like the +Arches of a Bridge. Within these rocks is the Cove, where we cut wood and +fill'd our Water. Off the North point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky +Island, and about a Mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The +variation of the Compass is here 14 degrees 31 minutes East, and the Tide +flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 o'Clock, and rises and falls +upon a Perpendicular 5 or 6 feet, but wether the flood comes from the +Southward or Northward I have not been able to determine.</p> + +<p>During our stay in this bay we had every day more or less Traffick with +the Natives, they bringing us fish, and now and then a few sweet Potatoes +and several trifles which we deemd Curiosities; for these we gave them +Cloth, Beads, Nails, etc. The Cloth we got at King George's Island and +Ulietea, they valued more than anything we could give them, and as every +one in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer'd +every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation; for by +this means I knew that the Natives would not only sell but get a good +Price for every thing they brought. This I thought would induce them to +bring to Market whatever the Country afforded, and I have great reason to +think that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is above +mentioned. We saw no 4 footed Animals, either Tame or Wild, or signs of +any, except Dogs and Rats,* (* Cook's powers of observation are here +evident. There were no other quadrupeds in New Zealand.) and these were +very Scarce, especially the latter. The flesh of the former they eat, and +ornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs, etc. +While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to View the +Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, the +sight being interrupted by still higher hills. The Tops and ridges of the +Hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them but +fern; but the Valleys and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously +clothed with woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives +lying dispers'd up and down the Country. We found in the Woods, Trees of +above 20 different sorts; Specimens of each I took on board, as all of +them were unknown to any of us. The Tree which we cut for firing was +something like Maple and yeilded a whitish Gum. There was another sort of +a deep Yellow which we imagin'd might prove useful in dying. We likewise +found one Cabage Tree* (* Palm.) which we cut down for the sake of the +cabage. The Country abounds with a great Number of Plants, and the woods +with as great a variety of beautiful birds, many of them unknown to us. +The soil of both the hills and Valleys is light and sandy, and very +proper for producing all kinds of Roots, but we saw only sweet potatoes +and Yams among them; these they plant in little round hills, and have +plantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and keept in +good order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can only +serve for Ornament.</p> + +<p>Monday, 30th. P.M. little wind and cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd and stood +in shore; at 7 o'Clock Tolaga Bay bore West-North-West, distant one +League. Tack'd and lay her head off; had it calm until 2 a.m., when a +breeze sprung up at South-West, and we made Sail to the Northward. At 6, +Gable end Foreland bore South-South-West, and Tolaga bay South-South-West +1/4 West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, being about 2 Miles from the shore, +some Canoes that were fishing came after the Ship; but we having a fresh +of wind they could not come up with us, and I did not chuse to wait for +them. At Noon, Latitude per observation 37 degrees 49 minutes South, a +small Island lying off the Northernmost land in sight, bore North 16 +degrees East, distant 4 Miles; course from Tolaga bay North by East 1/2 +East, distance 13 Leagues. The Land from thence is of a moderate but +unequal height, forming several small bays wherein are sandy beaches. +Hazey, cloudy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inland +country, but near the Shore we could see several Villages and Plantations +of the Natives. Soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Runaway, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 31st. At half-past one p.m. hauled round the Island above +mentioned, which lies East 1 Mile from the North-East point of the land. +The lands from hence Trends North-West by West, and West-North-West, as +far as we could see. This point of Land I have called East Cape, because +I have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this whole +Coast; and for the same reason I have called the Island which lays off +it, East Island. It is but of a small circuit, high and round, and +appears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with white +cliffs, and lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds +South, and Longitude 181 degrees 00 minutes West from the Meridian of +Greenwich. After we had rounded the East Cape we saw, as we run along +shore, a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land; +and in general the country appear'd with more fertility than what we had +seen before; it was low near the Sea, but hilly inland. At 8, being 8 +leagues to the Westward of Cape East, and 3 or 4 miles from the shore, +shortned sail and brought too for the night, having at this Time a fresh +Gale at South-South-East and squally weather; but it soon fell moderate, +and at 2 a.m. made Sail again to the South-West as the land now Trended. +At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing West. At the same time +the South-Westermost part of the Main bore South-West. At 9, five Canoes +came off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Men all Arm'd with +Pikes, etc.; from this and other Circumstances it fully appear'd that +they came with no friendly intentions; and I at this Time being very +buisey, and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their Motions, +I order'd a Grape shot to be fir'd a little wide of them. This made them +pull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what to +do or to look about them. Upon this I order'd a round shott to be fir'd +over their heads, which frightend them to that degree that I believe they +did not think themselves safe until they got ashore. This occasion'd our +calling the Point of land off which this hapned, Cape Runaway. Latitude +37 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 50 minutes West, and +17 or 18 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape. 4 Leagues to the Westward +of East Cape is a bay which I have named Hicks's bay, because Lieutenant +Hicks was the first who discover'd it.</p> + +<p>[November 1769.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 1st November. P.M., as we stood along shore (having little +wind, and Variable), we saw a great deal of Cultivated land laid out in +regular inclosures, a sure sign that the Country is both fertile and well +inhabited. Some Canoes came off from the shore, but would not come near +the Ship. At 8 brought to 3 Miles from the Shore, the land seen yesterday +bearing West, and which we now saw was an Island, bore South-West,* (* +This should evidently be North-West.) distant 8 leagues. I have named it +White Island,* (* White Island is an active volcano. It was evidently +quiescent at the time of the Endeavour passing.) because as such it +always appear'd to us. At 5 a.m. made Sail along shore to the South-West, +having little wind at East-South-East and Cloudy weather. At 8 saw +between 40 and 50 Canoes in shore. Several of them came off to the Ship, +and being about us some time they ventur'd alongside and sold us some +Lobsters, Muscels, and 2 Conger Eales. After these were gone some others +came off from another place with Muscels only, and but few of these they +thought proper to part with, thinking they had a right to everything we +handed them into their Canoes without making any return. At last the +People in one Canoe took away some linnen that was towing over the side, +which they would not return for all that we could say to them. Upon this +I fir'd a Musket Ball thro' the Canoe, and after that another musquet +load with Small Shott, neither of which they minded, only pulled off a +little, and then shook their paddles at us, at which I fir'd a third +Musquet; and the ball, striking the Water pretty near them, they +immediately apply'd their Paddles to another use; but after they thought +themselves out of reach they got altogether, and Shook their Paddles +again at us. I then gave the Ship a Yaw, and fir'd a 4 Pounder. This sent +them quite off, and we keept on our course along shore, having a light +breeze at East-South-East. At noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees +55 minutes, White Island bearing North 29 degrees West, distant 8 +Leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2nd. Gentle breezes from North-West round Northerly to +East-South-East and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw a pretty high Island +bearing West from us, and at 5 saw more Islands and Rocks to the Westward +of it. Hauld our wind in order to go without them, but, finding that we +could not weather them before dark, bore up, and run between them and the +Main. At 7 was close under the first Island, from whence a large double +Canoe full of People came off to us. This was the first double Canoe we +had seen in this Country. They staid about the Ship until it was dark, +then left us; but not before they had thrown a few stones. They told us +the name of the Island, which was Mowtohora.* (* Motuhora, called also +Whale Island.) It is but of a small Circuit, but high, and lies 6 Miles +from the Main. Under the South side is Anchorage in 14 fathoms. +South-West by South from this Island on the Main land, seemingly at no +great distance from the Sea, is a high round Mountain, which I have named +Mount Edgcombe. It stands in the middle of a large Plain, which make it +the more Conspicuous. Latitude 37 degrees 59 minutes South, Longitude 183 +degrees 07 minutes West. In standing to the Westward we Shoalded our +Water from 17 to 10 fathoms, and knowing that we were not far from some +Small Islands and Rocks that we had seen before dark, after Passing of +which I intended to have brought too for the night, but I now thought it +more prudent to tack, and spend the Night under the Island of Mowtohora, +where I knew there was no danger. And it was well we did, for in the +morning, after we had made Sail to the Westward, we discovered Rocks +ahead of us Level with and under the Water.* (* Rurima Rocks.) They lay 1 +1/2 Leagues from the Island Mowtohora, and about 9 Miles from the Main, +and North-North-East from Mount Edgecumbe. We passed between these Rocks +and the Main, having from 7 to 10 fathoms. The double Canoe which we saw +last night follow'd us to-day under Sail, and keept abreast of the Ship +near an hour talking to Tupia, but at last they began to pelt us with +stones. But upon firing one Musquet they dropt aStern and left us. At 1/2 +past 10 Passed between a low flat Island and the Main, the distance from +one to the other being 4 Miles; depth of Water 10, 12, and 15 fathoms. At +Noon the flat Island* (* Motunau.) bore from North-East to East 1/2 +North, distance 5 or 6 Miles; Latitude in per Observation 37 degrees 39 +minutes South, Longitude 183 degrees 30 minutes West. The Main land +between this and the Island of Mowtohara, which is 10 Leagues, is of a +moderate height, and all a level, flat Country, pretty clear of wood and +full of Plantations and Villiages. These Villiages are built upon +Eminences Near the Sea, and are Fortified on the land side with a Bank +and a Ditch, and Pallisaded all round. Besides this, some of them +appear'd to have out-works. We have before now observed, on several parts +of the Coast, small Villiages inclosed with Pallisades and works of this +kind built on Eminences and Ridges of hills, but Tupia had all along told +us that they were Mories, or places of worship; but I rather think they +are places of retreat or strong hold where they defend themselves against +the Attack of an Enemy, as some of them seem'd not ill design'd for that +Purpose.* (* In the contests with the Maories in after years, these Pahs, +or forts, proved to be no despicable defences.)</p> + +<p>[In Bay of Plenty, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 3rd. P.M. Fresh Gales at North-East by East and hazey weather. At +2 pass'd a small high Island lying 4 Miles from a high round head on the +Main* (* The island was Moliti; the high round head was Maunganui, which +marks the entrance to Tauranga harbour, a good port, where now stands a +small town of the same name.) from this head the land Trends North-West +as far as we could see, and appeared to be very rugged and hilly. The +weather being very hazey, and the Wind blowing fresh on shore, we hauled +off close upon a wind for the weathermost Island in sight, which bore +from us North-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Leagues. Under this Island we +spent the Night, having a fresh gale at North-East and North-East by +East, and hazey weather with rain; this Island I have called the Mayor. +At 7 a.m. it bore South 47 degrees East, distant 6 Leagues, and a Cluster +of small Islands and Rocks bore North 1/2 East, distant one League. At +the time had a Gentle breeze at East-North-East and clear weather. The +Cluster of Islands and Rocks just mentioned we named the Court of +Aldermen; they lay in the Compass of about half a League every way, and 5 +Leagues from the Main, between which and them lay other Islands. The most +of them are barren rocks, and of these there is a very great Variety, +some of them are of as small a Compass as the Monument in London, and +Spire up to a much greater height; they lay in the Latitude of 36 degrees +57 minutes, and some of them are inhabited. At Noon they bore South 60 +degrees East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, and a Rock like a Castle lying not +far from the Main, bore North 40 degrees West, one League. Latitude +observed 36 degrees 58 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterday +noon is North-North-West 1/2 West, about 20 Leagues. In this Situation +had 28 fathoms water, and a great many small Islands and Rocks on every +side of us. The Main land appears here with a hilly, rugged, and barren +surface, no Plantations to be seen, nor no other signs of its being well +inhabited.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 4th. The first and middle parts, little wind at East-North-East +and Clear weather; the Latter had a fresh breeze at North-North-West and +hazey with rain. At 1 p.m. 3 Canoes came off from the Main to the Ship, +and after Parading about a little while they darted 2 Pikes at us. The +first was at one of our Men as he was going to give them a rope, thinking +they were coming on board; but the 2nd they throw'd into the Ship; the +firing of one musquet sent them away. Each of these Canoes were made out +of one large Tree, and were without any sort of Ornament, and the people +in them were mostly quite naked. At 2 p.m. saw a large op'ning or inlet +in the land, which we bore up for with an intent to come to an Anchor. At +this time had 41 fathoms, which gradually decreased to 9 fathoms, at +which time we were 1 1/2 Mile from a high Tower'd Rock lying near the +South point of the inlet; the rock and the Northermost of the Court of +Aldermen being in one bearing South 61 degrees East. At 1/2 past 7 +Anchor'd in 7 Fathoms a little within the South Entrance of the Bay or +inlet. We were accompanied in here by several Canoes, who stay'd about +the Ship until dark; and before they went away they were so generous as +to tell us that they would come and attack us in the morning; but some of +them paid us a Visit in the night, thinking, no doubt, but what they +should find all hands asleep, but as soon as they found their Mistake +they went off. My reasons for putting in here were the hopes of +discovering a good Harbour, and the desire I had of being in some +convenient place to observe the Transit of Mercury, which happens on the +9th Instant, and will be wholy Visible here if the day is clear. If we be +so fortunate as to obtain this observation, the Longitude of this place +and Country will thereby be very accurately determined. Between 5 and 6 +o'Clock in the morning several Canoes came off to us from all parts of +the Bay; in them were about 130 or 140 People. To all appearances their +first design was to attack us, being all Completely Arm'd in their way; +however, this they never attempted, but after Parading about the Ship +near 3 Hours, sometimes trading with us, and at other times Tricking of +us, they dispersed; but not before we had fir'd a few Musquets and one +great gun, not with any design to hurt any of them, but to shew them what +sort of Weapons we had, and that we could revenge any insult they offer'd +to us. It was observable that they paid but little regard to the Musquets +that were fir'd, notwithstanding one ball was fir'd thro' one of their +Canoes, but what Effect the great gun had I know not, for this was not +fir'd until they were going away.</p> + +<p>[At Mercury Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>At 10, the weather Clearing up a little, I went with 2 Boats to sound the +Bay and to look for a more convenient Anchoring place, the Master being +in one Boat, and I in the other. We pull'd first over the North Shore, +where some Canoes came out to meet us, but as we came near them they +retir'd to the Shore and invited us to follow them, but seeing they were +all Arm'd I did not think fit to Except of their Invitation; but after +Trading with them out of the Boat for a few Minutes we left them and went +towards the head of the Bay. I observed on a high Point a fortified +Village, but I could only see a part of the works, and as I intend to see +the whole, shall say no more about it at this time. After having fix'd +upon an Anchoring place not far from where the Ship lay I return'd on +board.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 5th. Winds at North-North-West, Hazey weather with rain in the +night. At 4 p.m. weigh'd and run in nearer the South shore and Anchor'd +in 4 1/2 fathoms, a soft sandy bottom, the South point of the Bay bearing +East, distant 1 Mile, and a River (into which the boats can go at low +Water) South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Miles.* (* The bight in which the +Endeavour anchored is now known as Cook Bay.) In the morning the Natives +came off again to the Ship, but their behaviour was very different to +what it was Yesterday morning, and the little traffick we had with them +was carried on very fair and friendly. Two came on board the Ship--to +each I gave a Piece of English Cloth and some Spike Nails. After the +Natives were gone I went with the Pinnace and Long boat into the River to +haul the Sean, and sent the Master to sound the Bay and drudge for fish +in the Yawl. We hauled the Sean in several places in the River, but +caught only a few Mullet, with which we returned on board about Noon.</p> + +<p>Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes at North-North-West, and hazey weather with +rain in the night. P.M. I went to another part of the Bay to haul the +Sean, but meet with as little Success as before; and the Master did not +get above 1/2 a Bucket full of Shells with the Drudge. The Natives +brought to the Ship, and sold to our People, small Cockles, Clams, and +Mussels, enough for all hands. These are found in great plenty upon the +Sand Banks of the River. In the morning I sent the Long boat to Trawl in +the Bay, and one Officer with the Marines and a party of men to Cut wood +and haul the Sean, but neither the Sean nor the Trawl meet with any +success; but the Natives in some measure made up for this by bringing +several Baskets of dry'd or ready dress'd fish; altho' it was none of the +best I order'd it all to be bought up in order to encourage them to +Trade.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 7th. The first part moderate and fair; the remainder a fresh +breeze, northerly, with dirty, hazey, raining Weather. P.M. got on board +a Long boat Load of Water, and Caught a dish of fish in the Sean. Found +here a great Quantity of Sellery, which is boild every day for the Ship's +Company as usual.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 8th. P.M. fresh breeze at North-North-West and hazey, rainy +weather; the remainder a Gentle breeze at West-South-West and Clear +Weather. A.M. heeld and Scrubb'd both sides of the Ship and Sent a Party +of Men ashore to Cutt wood and fill Water. The Natives brought off to the +Ship, and Sold us for Small pieces of Cloth, as much fish as served all +hands; they were of the Mackrell kind, and as good as ever was Eat. At +Noon I observ'd the Sun's Meridian Zenith distance, by the Astronomical +Quadrant, which gave the Latitude 36 degrees 47 minutes 43 seconds South; +this was in the River before mentioned, that lies within the South +Entrance of the Bay.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. Variable light breezes and Clear weather. As soon as it +was daylight the Natives began to bring off Mackrell, and more than we +well know what to do with; notwithstanding I order'd all they brought to +be purchased in order to encourage them in this kind of Traffick. At 8, +Mr. Green and I went on shore with our Instruments to observe the Transit +of Mercury, which came on at 7 hours 20 minutes 58 seconds Apparent time, +and was observed by Mr. Green only.* (* Mr. Green satirically remarks in +his Log, "Unfortunately for the seamen, their look-out was on the wrong +side of the sun." This probably refers to Mr. Hicks, who was also +observing. It rather seems, however, as if Cook, on this occasion, was +caught napping by an earlier appearance of the planet than was expected.) +I, at this time, was taking the Sun's Altitude in order to Ascertain the +time. The Egress was observed as follows:--</p> + +<p>By Mr. Green: +Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 58 seconds Afternoon. +External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 55 seconds Afternoon.</p> + +<p>By myself: +Internal Contact at 12 hours 8 minutes 45 seconds Afternoon. +External Contact at 12 hours 9 minutes 43 seconds Afternoon.</p> + +<p>Latitude observed at noon 36 degrees 48 minutes 28 seconds, the mean of +this and Yesterday's observation gives 36 degrees 48 minutes 5 1/2 +seconds South; the Latitude of the Place of Observation, and the +Variation of the Compass was at this time found to be 11 degrees 9 +minutes East. While we were making these observations 5 Canoes came +alongside the Ship, 2 Large and 3 Small ones, in one were 47 People, but +in the other not so many. They were wholy strangers to us, and to all +appearance they came with a Hostile intention, being compleatly Arm'd +with Pikes, Darts, Stones, etc.; however, they made no attempt, and this +was very probable owing to their being inform'd by some other Canoes (who +at this time were alongside selling fish) what sort of people they had to +Deal with. When they first came alongside they begun to sell our people +some of their Arms, and one Man offer'd to Sale a Haahow, that is a +Square Piece of Cloth such as they wear. Lieutenant Gore, who at this +time was Commanding Officer, sent into the Canoe a piece of Cloth which +the Man had agreed to Take in Exchange for his, but as soon as he had got +Mr. Gore's Cloth in his Possession he would not part with his own, but +put off the Canoe from alongside, and then shook their Paddles at the +People in the Ship. Upon this, Mr. Gore fir'd a Musquet at them, and, +from what I can learn, kill'd the Man who took the Cloth; after this they +soon went away. I have here inserted the account of this Affair just as I +had it from Mr. Gore, but I must own it did not meet with my approbation, +because I thought the Punishment a little too severe for the Crime, and +we had now been long Enough acquainted with these People to know how to +Chastise Trifling faults like this without taking away their Lives.</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. P.M., Gentle breezes and Variable; the remainder, a Strong +breeze at East-North-East, and hazey weather. A.M., I went with 2 Boats, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen into the River which +Emptys itself into the head of the Bay, in order to Examine it; none of +the Natives came off to the Ship this morning, which we think is owing to +bad weather.</p> + +<p>[Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 11th. Fresh Gales at East-North-East, and Cloudy, hazey weather +with rain. Between 7 and 8 o'Clock p.m. I returnd on board from out the +River, having been about 4 or 5 Miles up it, and could have gone much +farther had the weather been favourable. I landed on the East side and +went upon the Hills, from whence I saw, or at least I thought I saw, the +head of the River. It here branched into several Channels, and form'd a +Number of very low flat Islands, all cover'd with a sort of Mangrove +Trees, and several places of the Shores of both sides the River were +Cover'd with the same sort of wood. The sand banks were well stored with +Cockles and Clams, and in many places were Rock Oysters. Here is likewise +pretty plenty of Wild Fowl, such as Shags, Ducks, Curlews, and a Black +bird, about as big as a Crow, with a long, sharp bill of a Colour between +Red and Yellow; we also saw fish in the River, but of what sort I know +not. The Country especially on the East side is barren, and for the most +part destitute of wood, or any other signs of Fertility; but the face of +the country on the other side looked much better, and is in many places +cover'd with wood. We meet with some of the Natives and saw several more, +and Smokes a long way inland, but saw not the least signs of Cultivation, +either here or in any other part about the Bay, so that the inhabitants +must live wholy on shell and other fish, and Fern roots, which they Eat +by the way of Bread. In the Entrance of this river, and for 2 or 3 Miles +up, it is very safe and Commodious Anchoring in 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, and +Convenient places for laying a Ship aShore, where the Tide rises and +falls about 7 feet at full and Change. I could not see whether or no any +considerable fresh Water Stream came out of the Country into this river, +but there are a number of small Rivulets which come from the Adjacent +hills. [Pahs in Mercury Bay, New Zealand.] A little within the Entrance +of the River on the East side is a high point or peninsula juting out +into the River on which are the Remains of one of their Fortified towns. +The Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have +Chose a better for a Small Number of men to defend themselves against a +greater; it is strong by Nature and made more so by Art. It is only +Accessible on the land Side, and there have been cut a Ditch and a Bank +raised on the inside. From the Top of the Bank to the Bottom of the Ditch +was about 22 feet, and depth of the Ditch on the land side 14 feet; its +breadth was in proportion to its depth, and the whole seem'd to have been +done with great Judgment. There had been a row of Pickets on the Top of +the Bank, and another on the outside of the Ditch; these last had been +set deep in the ground and Sloping with their upper ends hanging over the +Ditch. The whole had been burnt down, so that it is probable that this +place had been taken and destroy'd by an Enemy. The people on this side +of the Bay seem now to have no houses or fix'd habitations, but Sleep in +the open Air, under Trees and in small Temporary shades; but to all +appearance they are better off on the other side, but there we have not +set foot. In the morning, being dirty rainy weather, I did not Expect any +of the Natives off with fish, but thinking that they might have some +ashore I sent a Boat with some Trade, who return'd about noon loaded with +Oysters, which they got in the River which is abreast of the Ship, but +saw no fish among the Natives.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 12th. P.M. had Strong Gales at North-East, and hazey, rainy +weather; A.M. a fresh breeze at North-West, and Clear weather. In the +morning got on board a Turn of Water, and afterwards sent the Long boat +into the River for Oysters to take to sea with us; and I went with the +Pinnace and Yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, over to the +North side of the Bay in order to take a View of the Country and the +Fortified Village which stands there. We landed about a mile from it, and +were meet by the inhabitants in our way thither, who, with a great deal +of good nature and friendship, conducted us into the place and shew'd us +everything that was there.</p> + +<p>This village is built upon a high Promontory or point on the North side +and near the head of the Bay. It is in some places quite inaccessible to +man, and in others very difficult, except on that side which faced the +narrow ridge of the hill on which it stands. Here it is defended by a +double ditch, a bank and 2 rows of Picketing, the inner row upon the +Bank; but not so near the Crown but what there was good room for men to +Walk and handle their Arms between the Picketing and the inner Ditch. The +outer Picketing was between the 2 Ditches, and laid sloping with their +upper ends hanging over the inner Ditch. The Depth of this Ditch from the +bottom to the Crown of the bank was 24 feet. Close within the inner +Plcketing was erected by strong Posts a stage 30 feet high and 40 in +length and 6 feet broad. The use of this stage was to stand upon to throw +Darts at the Assailants, and a number of Darts lay upon it for that +purpose. At right angles to this Stage and a few paces from it was +another of the same Construction and bigness; this stood likewise within +the Picketing, and was intended for the same use as the other--viz., to +stand upon to throw stones and darts upon the Enemy as they advanc'd up +the side of the Hill where lay the Main way into the place. It likewise +might be intended to defend some little outworks and hutts that lay at +the Skirts and on this side of the Hill. These outworks were not intended +as advanced Posts, but for such of the Inhabitants to live in as had not +room in the Main works, but had taken Shelter under it. Besides the works +on the land side, above described, the whole Villiage was Pallisaded +round with a line of pretty strong Picketing run round the Edge of the +hill. The ground within having not been level at first, but laid Sloping, +they had divided it into little squares and Leveled each of these. These +squares lay in the form of an Amphitheatre, and were each of them +Pallisaded round, and had communication one with another by narrow lanes +and little gateways, which could easily be stoped up, so that if an Enemy +had forced the outer Picketing he had several others to incounter before +the place could be easily reduced, supposing them to defend everyone of +the places one after another. The main way leading into this +fortification was up a very steep part of the Hill and thro' a narrow +passage about 12 feet long and under one of the Stages. I saw no door nor +gate, but it might very soon have been barricaded up. Upon the whole I +looked upon it to be very strong and well choose Post, and where a small +number of resolute men might defend themselves a long time against a vast +superior force, Arm'd in the manner as these People are. These seem'd to +be prepared against a Siege, having laid up in store an immense quantity +of Fern roots and a good many dry'd fish; but we did not see that they +had any fresh Water nearer than a brook which runs close under the foot +of a hill, from which I suppose they can at times get water, tho' +besiged, and keep it in gouards until they use it. Under the foot of the +point on which the Village stands are 2 Rocks, the one just broke off +from the Main and other detatched a little from it. They are both very +small, and more fit for Birds to inhabit than men; yet there are houses +and places of defence on each of them, and about a Mile to Eastward of +these is another of these small Fortified rocks, which communicates with +the Main by a Narrow pathway, where there is a small Villiage of the +Natives. Many works of this kind we have seen upon small Islands and +Rocks and Ridges of hills on all parts of the Coast, besides a great +number of Fortified towns, to all appearances Vastly superior to this I +have described. From this it should seem that the People must have long +and frequent Warrs, and must have been long accustomed to it, otherwise +they never would have invented such strong holds as these, the Erecting +of which must cost them immense labour, considering the Tools they have +to work with, which are only made of Wood and Stone. It is a little +strange that with such a Warlike People, as these undoubtedly are, no +Omissive weapons are found among them, such as bows and Arrows, Slings, +etc., things in themselves so easily invented, and are common in every +other part of the world. The Arms they use are long spears or Lances, a +Staff about 5 feet long. Some of these are pointed at one end like a +Serjeant's Halberd, others are round and Sharp; the other ends are broad, +something like the blade of an Oar. They have another sort about 4 1/2 +feet long; these are shaped at one End like an Axe, and the other is made +with a Sharp point. They have short Truncheons about a foot long, which +they call Pattoo Pattoas; some made of wood, some of bone, and others of +Stone. Those made of wood are Variously shaped, but those made of bone +and Stone are of one shape, which is with a round handle, a broadish +blade, which is thickest in the Middle and taper'd to an Edge all round. +The use of these are to knock Men's brains out, and to kill them outright +after they are wounded; and they are certainly well contrived things for +this purpose. Besides these Weapons they Throw stones and Darts; the +Darts are 10 or 12 feet long, are made of hard wood, and are barbed at +one end. They handle all their Arms with great Agility, particularly +their long Pikes or Lances, against which we have no weapon that is an +equal match except a Loaded Musquet.</p> + +<p>Monday, 13th. P.M., Gentle Breezes at North-West and Clear weather. After +taking a Slight View of the Country and Loaded both boats with Sellery, +which we found in Great plenty near the Sea beach, we return'd on board +about 5 o'Clock. The Long boat at the same time return'd out of the River +Loaded as deep as she could swim with Oysters. And now I intended to put +to Sea in the morning if wind and weather will permit. In the night had +the wind at South-East, with rainy, dirty, hazey weather, which continued +all day, so that I could not think of Sailing, but thought myself very +happy in being in a good Port. Samuel Jones, Seaman, having been confin'd +since Saturday last for refusing to come upon deck when all hands were +called, and afterwards refused to Comply with the orders of the officers +on deck, he was this morning punished with 12 lashes and remited back to +confinement.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 14th. Fresh Gales, Easterly, and rainy, Dirty weather.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 15th. In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon one +of the Islands that lies off of the South Head of the Bay, with a view to +see if I could discover any sunken rocks or other Dangers lying before +the Entrance of the Bay, as there was a pretty large swell at this Time. +The Island we landed upon was very small, yet there were upon it a +Village, the inhabitants of which received us very friendly. This little +Village was laid out in small Oblong squares, and each pailisaded round. +The Island afforded no fresh Water, and was only accessible on one side: +from this I concluded that it was not choose for any Conveniency it could +afford them, but for its Natural Strength.</p> + +<p>[Sail from Mercury Bay, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>At 7 A.M. weigh'd, with a light breeze at West, and clear weather, and +made Sail out of the Bay, steering North-East, for the Northermost of a +Number of Islands lying off the North point of the Bay. These Islands are +of Various extents, and lye Scattered to the North-West in a parallel +direction with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid to +go within them, thinking that there was no safe Passage, but I afterwards +thought that we might; and I would have attempted it, but the wind, +coming to the North-West, prevented it, so that we were obliged to stand +out to Sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36 degrees 4 minutes South. +The Northermost Island, above mentioned, bore North, distant half a +League; the Court of Aldermen, South-East by South, distant 6 Leagues; +and the Bay Sail'd from, which I have named Mercury Bay, on account of +the observation being made there, South-West by West, distant 6 Miles.</p> + +<p>Mercury Bay* (* At the head of Mercury Bay is a small settlement called +Whitianga.) lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and the +Longitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich. +It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islands +lying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Island +or Rock in the Middle of the Entrance. Within this Island the depth of +water doth no were Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in a +sandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms, +bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with the +head, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding and +Watering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and other +small Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, and +hath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River. But the Snugest +and Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any time +is in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is every +conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South +shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any +name for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves,* (* Still +so called.) because of the great quantity of these Trees that are found +in it. The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is very +barren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delight +in a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover'd +with wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce the +Necessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be said +against it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we have +seen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who, +although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar'd to +others we have seen. They have no Plantations, but live only on Fern +roots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so are +their Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them. +This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainly +ingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided +near the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the Open +Air, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as +plainly shew'd that it was necessary for them to be always upon their +Guard. They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi,* (* Cook did +not realize that the New Zealanders were divided into independent +tribes.) but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; they +confirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing no +longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the People +about this bay had no fix'd habitations, and we thought so then, but have +since learnt that they have strong holds--or Hippas, as they call +them--which they retire to in time of danger.</p> + +<p>We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantity +of Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost every +little fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore not +far inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other where +we have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it, +preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or any +sort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of the +Trees near the Watering Place the Ship's Name, date, etc., and, after +displaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place in +the Name of His Majesty.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Colville, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, and +fair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands which +lies of the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward, +and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and some +others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main +land, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, bore +West by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36 +degrees 33 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that the +Mangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like +Rosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East and +West Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach, +but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that means +found out from whence it came.</p> + +<p>Friday, 17th. The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between the +South-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward in +order to get under the land. At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of the +Northernmost Island in sight, then Tackd and Stood to the Southward until +11, when we tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At this time the North +head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3 +Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land, +and abreast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour;* (* Probably +Waikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would not +permit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under our +Close reeft Topsails. At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4 +Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North +60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of Mercury +Bay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of the +Bay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 18th. First part strong Gales at South-West and +South-South-West, with heavy squalls: in the morning had Gentle breezes +at South and South-East, towards noon had Whifling light Airs all round +the Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails until +daylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind +coming at South-East we made sail and steer'd North-West by West, as the +land lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* Charles +Cove.) wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelter +from the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty high +above water. 4 Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuous +promontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o'Clock; it +lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degrees +West, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the Land trends West +1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see. +Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the +South-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islands +was not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of loosing +the Main land determin'd me to follow its direction. With this View we +hauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and Steer'd to the Southward, +but meeting with Whifling light Airs all round the Compass, we made but +little progress untill noon, when we found ourselves by Observation in +the Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* Channel +Island.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontory +above-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at this +time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land 2 large +Canoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about us +some time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir'd a +Musquet ball thro' one of the Canoes. After this they retir'd ashore.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 19th. At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards came +to North-East, and with it we steer'd along shore South by East and +South-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water. At 1/2 past 7, +having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor'd in 23 fathoms, not +choosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides of +us forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay or River, lying in South by +East, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At daylight +A.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an Easy +sail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got +under Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the people +came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their +having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated +the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present, and +after about an Hour's stay they went away well Satisfied. After having +run 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor'd last night our Depth of +Water gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose to +go, and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came to +an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell, which is here about 11 +Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side and +the other on the other side.</p> + +<p>[At Frith of Thames, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. At 2 +p.m. the boats return'd from sounding, not having found above 3 feet more +water than were we now lay; upon this I resolved to go no farther with +the Ship but to examine the head of the Bay in the Boat, for as it +appeard to run a good way inland, I thought this a good opportunity to +see a little of the interior part of the Country and its produce. +Accordingly at daylight in the morning I set out with the Pinnace and +Long boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. We found the +inlet end in a River, about 9 miles above the Ship, into which we Enter'd +with the first of the flood, and before we had gone 3 Miles up it found +the Water quite fresh. We saw a number of Natives and landed at one of +their Villages, the inhabitants of which received us with open Arms. We +made but a Short stay with them but proceeded up the river until near +Noon, when finding the face of the country to continue pretty much the +same, and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the least +probability of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in order +to take a View of the lofty Trees which Adorn its banks, being at this +time 12 or 14 Miles within the Entrance, and here the Tide of Flood runs +as strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 21st. After Landing as above-mention'd, we had not gone a +hundred yards into the woods before we found a Tree that girted 19 feet 8 +inches, 6 feet above the ground, and having a Quadrant with me, I found +its length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet; it was as +Streight as an Arrow and Taper'd but very little in proportion to its +length, so that I judged that there was 356 Solid feet of timber in this +Tree, clear of the branches. We saw many others of the same sort, several +of which were Taller than the one we measured, and all of them very +stout; there were likewise many other sorts of very Stout Timber Trees, +all of them wholy unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimens, +and at 3 o'Clock we embarqued in order to return (but not before we had +named this river the Thames,* (* The flourishing town of Thames now +stands at the eastern entrance of the river: population nearly 5000. Gold +is found in the vicinity.) on account of its bearing some resemblance to +that River in England) on board with the very first of the Ebb. In our +return down the river, the inhabitants of the Village where we landed in +going, seeing that we return'd by another Channell, put off in their +Canoes and met us and Trafficked with us in the most friendly manner +immaginable, until they had disposed of the few Trifles they had. The +tide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into the +Sea reach, as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a Strong +breeze at North-North-West obliged us to come to a Grapnel, and we did +not reach the Ship until 7 o'Clock in the A.M. Intending to get under +Sail at high water the Long boat was sent to take up the Kedge Anchor, +but it blow'd so strong that she could not reach the Buoy, and the gale +increasing soon obliged us to vear away more Cable and Strike Top Gallant +Yards.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 22nd. Winds at North-North-West. The A.M. fresh Gales and +hazey with rain; the remainder, moderate and Clear. At 3 p.m. the Tide of +Ebb making, we took up our Anchors and got under Sail and ply'd down the +River until 8 o'Clock, when we again came to an Anchor in 7 fathoms, +muddy bottom. At 3 a.m. weigh'd with the first of the Ebb and keept +plying until the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went in +the Pinnace over to the Western Shore, but found there neither +inhabitants or anything else worthy of Note. At the time I left the Ship +a good many of the Natives were alongside and on board Trafficking with +our people for such Trifles as they had, and seem'd to behave as well as +people could do, but one of them took the 1/2 hour glass out of the +Bittacle, and was caught in the very fact, and for which Mr. Hicks, who +was Commanding Officer, brought him to the Gangway and gave him a Dozen +lashes with a Catt of nine Tails. The rest of the people seem'd not +displeased at it when they came to know what it was for, and some old man +beat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe; however, soon after this +they all went away.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 23rd. P.M. Gentle breezes at North-North-West and fair weather. +Between 3 and 4 o'Clock got under Sail with the first of the Ebb and +ply'd to windward until 9 when we anchor'd in 16 fathoms over upon the +East shore. In the night had light Airs and Calm; at 3 A.M. weighed but +had little or no wind until near noon, when a light breeze sprung up at +North-North-West. At this time we were close under the West shore in 7 +fathoms Water; Latitude 36 degrees 51 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[Description of Frith of Thames, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 24th. P.M., Fresh Gales and dark, Cloudy, squally weather, with +Thunder, Lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to the +South-West, and this last carried us by 7 o'Clock without the North-West +point of the River, but the weather being bad and having land on all +sides of us, and a Dark night coming on, I thought it most adviseable to +Tack and stretch in under ye Point where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms. At 5 +a.m. weighed and made Sail to the North-West under our Courses and double +Reef'd Topsails, the wind being at South-West by West and +West-South-West, a strong Gale and Squally blowing right off the land, +which would not permit us to come near it, so that from the time of our +getting under Sail until' Noon (during which time we ran 12 Leagues) we +had but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able to +distinguish wether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands +laying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main Land.* (* The +Endeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour where +Auckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands.) At noon +our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South, +being at this time not above 2 Miles from a Point of Land on the Main and +3 1/2 Leagues from a very high Island* (* Little Barrier Island, now +(1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna.) which bore +North-East by East of us; in this Situation had 26 fathoms Water. The +farthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but we +could see several small Islands laying to the Northward of that +direction. The point of land we are now abreast off, I take to be the +North-West Extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under +that Name the Deep Bay we have been in for this week past, the North-East +point of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last, and +which I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right hon'ble the Lord +Colvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville in +Newfoundland.) Latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude 184 +degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the Sea to a Considerable +height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing close +to the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may be +distinguished at a very great distance. From the South-West point of this +Cape the river Extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is no +where less than 3 Leagues broad until' you are 14 Leagues above the Cape, +there it is at once Contracted to a Narrow stream. From this place it +still continues the same South by East Course thro' a low flat Country or +broad Valley that lies Parrallel with the Sea Coast, the End of which we +could not see. The land on the East side of the Broadest part of this +river is Tollerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low, +but the whole is cover'd with woods and Verdure and looks to be pretty +fertile, but we saw but a few small places that were Cultivated. About +the Entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly Cover'd +with Mangroves and other Shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of as +stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of the +world. In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the +River, but where it does not the land is Marshey such as we find about +the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the River +to set nets for Catching of fish; from this we immagin'd that there must +be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. The +Greatest Depth of Water we found was 26 fathoms and decreaseth pretty +gradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom. In the mouth of the +fresh-water Stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this are +sand banks and large flatts; Yet, I believe, a Ship of a Moderate draught +of Water may go a long way up this River with a flowing Tide, for I +reckon that the Tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and is high +water at the full and Change of the Moon about 9 o'Clock. Six Leagues +within Cape Colvill, under the Eastern Shore, are several small Islands, +these Islands together with the Main seem'd to form some good Harbours.* +(* Coromandel Harbour.) Opposite to these Islands under the Western Shore +lies some other Islands, and it appear'd very probable that these form'd +some good Harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them.) But +even supposing there were no Harbours about this River, it is good +anchoring in every part of it where the depth of Water is Sufficient, +being defended from the Sea by a Chain of Large and Small Islands which I +have named Barrier Isles, lying aCross the Mouth of it extending +themselves North-West and South-East 10 Leagues. The South end of these +Islands lies North-East 4 1/2 Leagues from the North-West point of the +River, which I have named point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leagues +from Cape Colvill, Latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; Longitude 184 degrees +58 minutes West. The Natives residing about this River do not appear to +be very numerous considering the great Extent of Country; at least not +many came off to the Ship at one Time, and as we were but little ashore +ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a Strong, +well made, active People as any we have seen yet, and all of them Paint +their Bodys with Red Oker and Oil from Head to foot, a thing that we have +not seen before. Their Canoes are large, well built and Ornamented with +Carved work in general as well as most we have seen.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather. +We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land on +the one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12 +fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy +bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and +100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the +Name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.) The 2 points which forms this Bay +lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every where +pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it their +appears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district is +very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) The +North head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable on +account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it +lies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees +West, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be +known by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens, +one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The land +between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low and +wooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand +banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that the +Country is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed +our Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at South +by West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation to +be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observation +was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles; +some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3 +Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being +at this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26 +fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd with +wood and seems not ill inhabited.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th. P.M., Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North, +kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5 +Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards evening +several Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board; +to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone +out of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to get +rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4 +pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless +they hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night had +variable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and +afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward. +At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed last +night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at +one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside; +their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon +them to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South by +East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant +4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Monday, 27th. P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3 +passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett +in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of +the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of this +Cape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At the +very point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North, +near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole +pierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why I +gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for that +of the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the +Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South, +Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is +a large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-West +by West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point +that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies +West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett. On the South-West side of +this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main +land, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People, +but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into a +friendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had an +opportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance, +being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'd +up and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with white +feathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits of +these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they wore +was of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on in +such a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these people +were Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to +the South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the same +manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In the +Course of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, we +reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside +and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8 +Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Country +must be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward of +North, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when the +wind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m we +were within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainland +and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Here +we lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this time +several Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some +fish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islands +the same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, and +would not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of their +Boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott, +after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off +to Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4 +Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost land +in sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per +Observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being +right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we +could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in +with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape +Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded +in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East +by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0 +minutes South.</p> + +<p>[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept +plying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground every +board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the +Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time not +above 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain +some knowledge of it, on the Contrary, by Keeping the Sea with a Contrary +wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me +to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands.) and at 11 o'Clock we +Anchor'd under the South-West side of one of the many Islands* (* Motu +Arohia.) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we +fell into this shoald water all at once, we Anchor'd sooner than was +intended, and sent the Master with 2 Boats to sound, who found that we +had got upon a Bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the +Island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms Water.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 30th. P.M., had the winds Westerly, with some very heavy +Showers of Rain. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 300 and +400 of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship; some few +were admitted on board, and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad +Cloth and distributed a few Nails, etc., among some others of them. Many +of these People had been off to the Ship when we were at Sea, and seem'd +to be very sencible of the use of Fire Arms, and in the Trade we had with +them they behaved Tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some +of them wanted to take away the Buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor.) and +would not desist at the firing of several Musquets until one of them was +hurt by small Shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the +Ship, and this was thought a good opportunity to try what Effect a Great +Gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a Musquet, and +accordingly one was fir'd over their Heads. This, I believe, would have +sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail'd on +them to return to the Ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no +room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther Trouble.</p> + +<p>After the Ship was moved into Deeper Water I went with the Pinnace and +Yawl, mann'd and Arm'd, and landed upon the Island, accompanied by Mr. +Banks and Dr. Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left +the Ship and landed at different parts of the Island, and before we could +well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 People, and, +notwithstanding that they were all Arm'd, they came upon us in such a +confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected that they meant us +any harm; but in this we were very soon undeceived, for upon our +Endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up +the War dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2 +Boats. Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon +us, upon which I fir'd a Musquet loaded with small Shott at one of the +Forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the Men fir'd immediately +after. This made them retire back a little, but in less than a minute one +of the Chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander, seeing this, gave him a +peppering with small Shott, which sent him off and made them retire a +Second time. They attempted to rally several times after, and only seem'd +to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last +intirely dispers'd by the Ship firing a few shott over their Heads and a +Musquet now and then from us. In this Skirmish only one or 2 of them was +Hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as +Possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had +observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and +sometime after the whole was over we went Towards them. The Chief who I +have mentioned to have been on board the Ship hapned to be one of these; +he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off. +Those 3 people came and sat down by us, and we gave them of such things +as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island, +where some of the inhabitants came to us, and were as meek as lambs. +Having taken a View of the Bay from the Island and Loaded both Boats with +Sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return'd on board, and +at 4 A.M. hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea, with a light breeze +at East, but it soon falling Calm, obliged us to come too again, and +about 8 or 9 o'Clock, seeing no probability of our getting to Sea, I sent +the Master to Sound the Harbour. But before this I order'd Matthew Cox, +Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each +for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up Potatoes +out of one of the Plantations.* (* Cook's care to deal fairly with +natives is evinced by this punishment.) The first of the 3 I remitted +back to Confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he +had done. All this Forenoon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship +and some few on board. We Trafficked with them for a few Trifles, in +which they dealt very fair and friendly.</p> + +<p>[December 1769.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 1st December. Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3 +p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to +the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by +Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The +place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small +Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise +several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and +Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto +met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship. +In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought +us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary, +I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in +the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and +in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the +Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 2nd. Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the +remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m. +hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace +to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to +blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one +Turn of water and but a very few fish.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 3rd. P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle +breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and +one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.</p> + +<p>Monday, 4th. Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West; +very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon +one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua.) on the North side of the one +the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath +upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here +are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as +well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m. +sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut +Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a +point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the +inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed, +which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys +of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles. +After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place, +and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but +these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the Country, +and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of +Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the +Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty +rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay +of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much +incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being +the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make +their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the +Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at +their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the +use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the +extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we +had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so +much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few +places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more +than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and +likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the +least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among +them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least +that we have seen.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th. P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a +fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited +another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our +Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board +a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I +still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for +the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at +South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near +Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not +got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes +South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape +Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands,* (* The principal settlement +in the Bay of Islands is Russell. A little higher up the Waikare River, +at Opua, coal obtained from mines in the vicinity is shipped. At Russell, +then called Kororarika, the first settlement of missionaries was formed +in 1814 by Samuel Marsden. Here also the Government of the Island was +first established in 1840, but was soon removed to Auckland.) on account +of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several +safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water +sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the +South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East +side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it +would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it; +besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with +Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment +for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish. +Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by +far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various +sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several +other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with +Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large +made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the +same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever +saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this +fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The +inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we +have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another, +although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.* +(* This district was found to be very populous when the missionaries +came.) They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of +Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature +hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people +themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change +of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls +upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I +have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood +comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that +there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to +the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.</p> + +<p>[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which +we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the +evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the +tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were +very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air +from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought +ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (* +Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart.) and went immediately clear +without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the +Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms, +but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West +from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side +of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9 +o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze +springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett +bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34 +degrees 59 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather. +At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean +result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the +Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been +against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the +Westward.</p> + +<p>Friday, 8th. Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, +with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands. +They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7 +Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point +Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were +here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of +Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at +South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for +them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to +South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening +to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East. +Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at +which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues +off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore +South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore +West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in +per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 9th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening +came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us +pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle +Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and +West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the +land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance +lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay +I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called +Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this +Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from +us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it +it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up +at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay +becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but +were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came +off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different +sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.</p> + +<p>At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues, +and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and +the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the +Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees +44 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 10th. Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle +breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12 +degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the +Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to +the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open +Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other, +being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which +juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West +by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a +high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we +called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186 +degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the +bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce +Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren +than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the +Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white +sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel +with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu +Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs, +Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it, +which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.* (* This +is the fact.) As barren as this land appears it is not without +inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on +the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to +the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to +the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes. +The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the +Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore +North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West +by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.</p> + +<p>Monday, 11th. Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept +plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the +Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set +yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 12th. Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North +and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at +Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude +observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 13th. Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and +fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and +stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel +and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10 +it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails; +at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and +stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of +the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to +blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain, +this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a +manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard. +At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At +Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the +Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the +Coast.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 14th. Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at +times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the +Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West, +distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses, +having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and +Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the +North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 +Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since +Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry +and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather, +Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West +being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before, and which I +take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large +swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we +covered by any land on that point of the Compass.* (* The Endeavour was +now to the northward of the north point of New Zealand.)</p> + +<p>[Off North Cape, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear +weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood +to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward +with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude +of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes +West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we +used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West. +Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from +the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set +the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard. +At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since +Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in +sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 17th. A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West +with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no +ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4 +miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the +North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West, +distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11 +Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West; +Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work +repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late +blowing weather.</p> + +<p>Monday, 18th. Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear +weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet +with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as +we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood +off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10 +Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to +yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude +observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 19th. The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze +and Clear weather. At 7 Tack'd in 35 fathoms; the point of land before +mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Miles, having not +gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof +that there must be a Current setting to the Eastward.* (* This strong +easterly current is now well known.) The Point of Land above mentioned I +have called North Cape, judging it to be the Northermost Extremity of +this Country. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and +Longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position +is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 Leagues from Cape Brett; +it forms the North Point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula juting out +North-East about 2 Miles, and Terminates in a Bluff head which is flatt +at Top. The Isthmus which joins this head to the Mainland is very low, on +which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an +Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the Southward of it by +the appearance of a high round Island at the South-East Point of the +Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join'd to the +Cape by a low, narrow neck of Land; on the South-East side of the Cape +there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from +South-East and North-West winds. We saw a Hippa or Village upon the Cape +and some few inhabitants. In the night had some Squalls attended with +rain, which obliged us to take another Reef in our Topsails. At 8 a.m. +Tack'd and stood in Shore, and being moderate loosed a Reef out of each +Topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the Latitude of 34 +degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazey over the land we did not see it.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather. +At 6 Tack'd and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. +At 4 a.m. Tack'd and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze, +but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with +Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up +and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef'd +and Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear +weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape +South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 21st. Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a +heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m. +loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land +in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues. +Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Friday, 22nd. A moderate Gale at South by West and South-South-West and +Cloudy weather. At 8 a.m. got up Top Gallant Yards and set the sails. At +Noon Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 2 minutes South. Course and distant +since Yesterday at Noon is North 69 1/2 West, 37 Miles. The North Cape +bore South 39 degrees East, distant 38 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes between the South by West and South-West, +and Clear settled weather, with a swell from the South-West. Course and +distance sailed since Yesterday at Noon is South 60 degrees East, 30 +Miles. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South. North Cape South 36 +minutes East, distant 27 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 24th. Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 Hours. At 7 p.m. saw +the land from the Mast head bearing South 1/2 East; at 11 a.m. saw it +again bearing South-South-East, distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latitude +observed 33 degrees 48 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Monday, 25th. A Gentle breeze at South-East, the weather a little hazey. +P.M., stood to the South-West. At 4 the land above mentioned bore +South-East by South, distant 4 Leagues. It proves to be a small Island, +which we take to be the 3 Kings discover'd by Tasman; there are several +Smaller Islands or Rocks lying off the South-West end and one at the +North-East end. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, +and Longitude 187 degrees 45 minutes West and West 14 degrees North, 14 +or 15 Leagues from the North Cape. At Midnight Tack'd and stood to the +North-East until 6 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the Southward. At Noon +the Island of the 3 Kings bore East 8 degrees North, distant 5 or 6 +Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude in 188 +degrees 5 minutes West; variation per Azimuth taken this morning 11 +degrees 25 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 26th. Moderate breezes, Easterly and hazey weather; standing to +the Southward close upon a wind. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 +degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 20 minutes West. The +island of the 3 Kings North 26 degrees West, distant 22 Leagues. In this +situation had no land in sight, and yet by observation we are in the +Latitude of the Bay of Islands, and by my reckoning but 30 Leagues to the +Westward of the North Cape, from whence it appears that the Northern part +of this land must be very narrow, otherwise we must have seen some part +of the West side of it.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 27th. Winds at East. P.M., a fresh Gale, with which we stood +to the Southward until 12 at Night, then Tack'd and Stood to the +Northward. At 4 a.m. the wind began to freshen, and increased in such a +manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her +Mainsail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy Squalls +attended with rain, and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made +good since Yesterday at Noon South-South-West 1/2 West, distance 11 +Miles. Latitude in 35 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees +29 minutes West. The Island of the 3 Kings, North 27 degrees East, +distant 77 Miles.</p> + +<p>[Off North End of New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 28th. The Gale continued without the least intermission until 2 +a.m., when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the Southward and +to the South-West where it fixed at 4, and we made Sail and steer'd East +in for the Land under the Foresail and Mainsail, but was soon obliged to +take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and increased in such a +manner that by 8 o'Clock it was a meer Hurricane attended with rain and +the Sea run prodidgious high. At this time we wore the Ship, hauld up the +Topsail, and brought her too with her head to the North-West under a +Reefed Mainsail, but this was scarcely done before the Main Tack gave way +and we were glad to take in the Mainsail and lay too under the Mizen +staysail and Ballanced Mizen, after which we reefd the Foresail and +furl'd both it and the Mainsail. At Noon the Gale was a little abated, +but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our Course made good +to-day is North, a little Easterly, 29 miles; Latitude in per Account 34 +degrees 50 minutes South; Longitude in 188 degrees 27 minutes West; the 3 +Kings North 41 East; distant 52 Miles.</p> + +<p>Friday, 29th. Winds at South-West and South-West by West. A very hard +Gale with Squalls but mostly fair weather. At 7 p.m. wore and lay on the +other Tack. At 6 a.m. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and Set it and +the Reefd Mainsail. At 11 unbent both Foresail and Mainsail to repair, +and bent others and made Sail under them. At Noon Latitude observed 34 +degrees 45 minutes South. Course and distance saild since yesterday East +by North 29 miles.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 30th. Winds at South-West. P.M., hard Gales with some Squalls +attended with rain. A.M., more moderate and fair. At 8 p.m. wore and +stood to the North-West until 5 a.m., then wore and stood to the +South-East and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close Reef'd, +but the South-West Sea runs so high that the Ship goes Bodily to leeward. +At 6 saw the land bearing North-East distant about 6 Leagues which we +judge to be the same as Tasman calls Cape Maria Van Dieman; at Noon it +bore North-North-East 1/2 East and we could see the land extend to the +East and Southward as far as South-East by East. Our Latitude by +observation 34 degrees 50 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 31st. Fresh gales at South-West and South-West by South +accompanied by a large Sea from the same Quarter. At 1 p.m. Tack'd and +Stood to the North-West until 8, then stood to the South-East. At this +time the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by West, distant 11 +Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North by East. At Midnight wore and +Stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., then wore and Stood to the +South-East; at Noon our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 42 minutes +South. The land of Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-East by North distant +about 5 Leagues.</p> + +<p>1770.</p> + +<p>[January 1770.]</p> + +<p>Monday, January 1st. P.M., fresh breezes at South-West by South and +Squally, the remainder moderate breezes at South-West by South and +South-West clear weather. At 7 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Westward. At +this time Mount Camel bore North 83 degrees East and the Northermost land +or Cape Maria Van Diemen North by West, being distant from the Nearest +Shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.</p> + +<p>NOTE. Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the +Sea on this Side* (* It is, in fact, about six miles, but the coast in +front is so low that the mistake in estimation is very natural.) and +about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be +above 2 or 3 Miles broad from Sea to Sea, which is what I computed when +we were in Sandy Bay on the other side of the Coast. At 6 a.m. Tack'd and +Stood to the Eastward, the Island of the 3 Kings North-West by North. At +Noon Tack'd again and stood to the Westward, being in the Latitude of 34 +degrees 37 minutes South; the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by +North, distant 10 or 11 Leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen North 31 East, +distant 4 1/2 Leagues; in this situation had 54 fathoms. I cannot help +thinking but what it will appear a little strange that at this season of +the Year we should be 3 Weeks in getting 10 Leagues to the Westward and 5 +Weeks in getting 50 Leagues, for so long it is since we pass'd Cape +Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of Summer and in +the Latitude of 35 degrees South such a Gale of wind as we have had could +have hapned which for its Strength and Continuance was such as I hardly +was ever in before. Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from +land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.* (* The north point of +New Zealand is celebrated for bad weather.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 2nd. Fresh breezes at South-South-West and West accompanied with +a rowling Sea from the South-West. At 5 p.m. the wind Veering to the +Westward we Tack'd and Stood to the Southward. At this time the North +Cape bore East 3/4 North and was just open of a point that lies 3 Leagues +West by South from it, being now well assured that it is the Northermost +Extremity of this Country and is the East point of a Peninsula which +Stretches out North-West and North-West by North 17 or 18 Leagues, and as +I have before observed is for the most part low and narrow except its +Extremity where the land is Tollerable high and Extends 4 or 5 Leagues +every way. Cape Maria Van Diemen is the West point of the Peninsula and +lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 30 minutes South; Longitude 187 +degrees 18 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* This is extraordinarily +accurate, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the +observations were all taken in bad weather. The latitude is exact, and +the longitude is only three miles in error. The persistence with which +Cook clung to this point until he could resume his exploration and +examination of the coast is very characteristic of the man. He would not +willingly miss a mile of it, nor did he.) From this Cape the Land Trends +away South-East by South and South-East to and beyond Mount Camel, and is +everywhere a barren shore affording no better prospect than what ariseth +from white sand Banks. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. the Island of the 3 Kings bore +North-West by North and Cape Maria Van Diemen North-East by East, distant +4 Leagues. At 5 a.m. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-North-East 1/2 East +and Mount Camel East. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 17 +minutes and Cape Maria Van Diemen by judgment bore North distant 16 +Leagues; having no land in sight, not daring to go near it as the wind +blow'd fresh right on shore and a high rowling Sea from the Same Quarter, +and knowing that there was no Harbour that we could put into in case we +were Caught upon a lee shore.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3rd. Winds at West-South-West and South-West; a fresh breeze +and Squally, the remainder moderate with frequent Squalls attended with +rain. In the evening shortned Sail and at Midnight Tack'd and made a Trip +to the North-West until 2 a.m., then wore and stood to the Southward. At +daylight made Sail and Edged away in order to make the Land; at 10 saw it +bearing North-East and appeared to be high land; at Noon it extended from +North to East-North-East distant, by Estimation, 8 or 10 Leagues, and +Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 2 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 33 +Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 2 minutes South. A +high rowling swell from the South-West.</p> + +<p>[Off Kaipara Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. Winds at South-West and South-West by South; mostly a +fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling sea from the same Quarter. Being +desirous of taking as near a View of the coast as we could with safety we +keept Edging in for it until 7 o'Clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues +from the Land. We then hauld our wind to South-East and keept on that +Course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no +ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 o'Clock a.m. was about 5 Leagues +from the Land and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 25 +minutes that had the Appearance of a Bay or inlet bore East.* (* This was +Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had +been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The +town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.) In order to see more of +this place we kept on our Course until 11 o'Clock when we were not above +3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet, +but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the +deception. At this time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon we +were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land and in the Latitude of 36 +degrees 31 minutes and Longitude 185 degrees 50 minutes West. Cape Maria +Van Diemen bore North 25 West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form +my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly +South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be +nearly a Strait Shore. In about the Latitude 35 degrees 45 minutes is +some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the Southward of that the land is +of a moderate heigth, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect. +Nothing is to be seen but long sand Hills, with hardly any Green thing +upon them, and the great Sea which the prevailing Westerly winds impell +upon the Shore must render this a very Dangerous Coast. This I am so +fully sencible of, that was we once clear of it I am determined not to +come so near Again, if I can possible avoid it, unless we have a very +favourable wind indeed.* (* The mingled audacity and caution of Cook's +navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.)</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended +with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the +North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At +Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in +per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore +North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th. First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the +night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a +Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West; +distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant +weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van +Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude +in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore +North, distant 11 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Gentle breezes at North-East and pleasant weather. At 6 p.m. +saw the land bearing East, and sometime after saw a Turtle upon the +Water. At Noon the land Extending from North to East, distant 5 or 6 +Leagues, being the high land before mentioned and which it intersected in +2 places each having the appearance of a Bay or inlet, but I believe it +is only low land.* (* These were Hokianga and False Hokianga.) Course and +distance made good since Yesterday at Noon is South 33 East, 53 miles. +Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 45 minutes South. Cape Maria Van +Diemen North 25 West, distant 30 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West, +Cloudy weather sailing along shore within sight of Land at Noon. Course +and distance Sailed South 37 East, 69 Miles. Latitude in per Observation +36 degrees 39 minutes South; the place we were abreast of the 4th +Instant, which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet* (* Kaipara.) bore +North-East by North, distant 5 1/2 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen +bore North 29 West, distant 47 Leagues.</p> + +<p>[Off Kawhia Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th. Winds at North-North-East and North, the first part a +Gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and Cloudy with rain towards +Noon. Continued a South-East Course until' 8 o'Clock p.m. at which time +we had run 7 Leagues since Noon, and were between 3 and 4 Leagues from +the Land which appear'd to be low and Sandy such as I have before +Discribed, and we then steer'd South-East by East in a Parrallel +direction with the Coast, our Depth of Water from 48 to 34 fathoms; a +black sandy bottom; at daylight found ourselves between 2 and 3 Leagues +from the land which was of a Moderate height and Cloathed with Wood and +Verdure. At 7 o'Clock steer'd South by East and afterwards South by West, +the land laying in that direction; at 9 was abreast of a Point of Land +which rises sloping from the Sea to a Considerable height; it lies in the +Latitude of 37 degrees 43 minutes South; I named it Woodyhead. South-West +1/2 West 11 Miles from this Head is a very small Island which we named +Gannet Island, on account of the Great Number of these Birds we saw upon +it. At Noon a high Craggy point bore East-North-East, distance 1 1/2 +Leagues; this point I have named Albetross Point; it lies in the Latitude +of 38 degrees 4 minutes South, and Longitude 184 degrees 42 minutes West, +and from Woodyhead South 17 minutes West 7 Leagues. On the North side of +it the shore forms a Bay wherein there appears to be anchorage and +Shelter for Shipping against Southerly Winds;* (* Kawhia Harbour. There +is a settlement here.) our Course and distance saild since Yesterday at +Noon is South 37 East, distance 69 Miles. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore +North 30 West, distant 82 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 11th. At 1/2 past Noon the wind Shifted at Once from +North-North-East to South-South-West with which we stood to the Westward +until 4 p.m., then Tack'd and stood on Shore until' 7, when we again +stood to the Westward having but little wind. At this Time Albetross +Point bore North-East, distant near 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land +in sight bore South-South-West 1/2 West being a very high Mountain and +made very much like the Peak of Teneriff; in this Situation had 30 +fathoms Water; had little wind all night; at 4 a.m. Tacked and stood in +Shore, but it soon after fell Calm and being in 42 fathoms Water; the +People caught about 10 or 12 Bream. At 11 a light breeze sprung up from +the Westward and we made Sail to the Southward. At Noon was by +Observation in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South; Albetross +Point bore due East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. Gentle breezes from between the North-West and +North-North-East; Fore and Middle part Clear Weather; the Latter part +dark and Cloudy; steering along shore South by West and South-South-West +at the distance of 4 Leagues off. At 7 p.m. saw the top of the Peaked +Mountain to the Southward above the Clouds bearing from us South; at the +same time the Southermost land we had in Sight bore South by West. Took +several Azimuths both in the Evening and the Morning which gave the +Variation 14 degrees 15 minutes Easterly. At Noon had the winds very +Variable with dark cloudy weather attended with excessive heavy Showers +of rain; at this time we were about 3 Leagues from the Shore which lies +under the Peaked Mountain before mentioned. This Peak we did not see, it +being hid in the Clouds, but judged it to bear about South-South-East, +and some very remarkable peaked Islands, lying under the Shore, bore +East-South-East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. Winds Variable. P.M., Cloudy weather. At 7 o'Clock +sounded and had 42 fathoms water, being distant from the Shore between 2 +and 3 Leagues and the Peaked Mountain as near as I could judge bore East. +After it was Dark saw a fire upon the Shore, a sure sign that the Country +is inhabited. In the night had some Thunder, Lightning, and Rain; at 5 +a.m. saw for a few Minutes the Top of the Peaked Mountain above the +Clouds bearing North-East. It is of a prodidgious height and its Top is +cover'd with Everlasting Snow; it lies in the Latitude of 39 degrees 16 +minutes South, and in the Longitude of 185 degrees 15 minutes West. I +have named it Mount Egmont in honour of the Earl of Egmont.* (* The Earl +of Egmont was First Lord of the Admiralty from 1763 to 1766. Mount Egmont +is a magnificent conical mountain, surrounded on three sides by the sea, +from which it rises to a height of 8300 feet.) This mountain seems to +have a pretty large base and to rise with a Gradual Ascent to the Peak, +and what makes it more Conspicuous is its being situated near the Sea and +in the Midst of a flat Country which afforded a very good Aspect, being +Cloathed with Woods and Verdure. The shore under the foot of this +Mountain forms a large Cape which I have named Cape Egmont; it lies +South-South-West 1/2 West, 27 Leagues from Albetross Point. On the +North-East side of the Cape lay 2 Small Islands near to a very remarkable +Point of the Main that riseth to a good height in the very form of a +Sugar Loaf. To the Southward of the Cape the Land tends away South-East +by East and East-South-East, and seems to be every where a bold shore. At +Noon had variable light Airs and Clear weather. Latitude observ'd 39 +degrees 32 minutes South. Cape Egmont bore about North-East, and we were +about 4 Leagues from the Shore in that direction; in this situation had +40 fathoms Water.</p> + +<p>[In North Part of Cook's Strait.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West. In the evening came to +North-West by West and Continued so all night and blow'd a fresh breeze; +we steer'd along shore East-South-East and South-East by East, keeping +between 2 and 3 Leagues off. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. Saw for a few Minutes +Mount Egmont which bore from us North 17 West, distant 10 Leagues. At 5 +a.m. Steer'd South-East by South the land inclining more Southerly, but +half an hour after we saw land bearing South-West by South which we hauld +up for.* (* The north end of the South Island, New Zealand.) At this time +the weather was squally attended with showers of rain. At noon had a +Steady fresh breeze at West by North and Cloudy weather; the South-West +Extremity of the Land in sight bore South 63 degrees West and some high +land, which makes like an Island lying under the Main, bore +South-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. The bottom of the Bay* (* This was +the Northern part of Cook's Strait, but it was thought at the time to be +a bay.) we are now in, and which bears from us South we cannot see, +altho' it is very Clear in that Quarter. Our Latitude by Observation is +40 degrees 27 minutes South, Longitude 184 degrees 39 minutes West.* (* +The western side of the North Island, which Cook took such trouble to +follow, is 400 miles long, and is a most dangerous coast to explore, on +account of the winds being mostly on shore. This prevented him from +getting very close; and he missed the entrances to several harbours, such +as the Manukau, the Waikato River, Whaingaroa, and others. No canoes were +seen, as the coast is not favourable for such craft.)</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. Fore and Middle parts, fresh breezes between the West and +North-West and fair weather. At 8 p.m. we were within 2 Leagues of the +Land, we discover'd in the morning, having run 10 Leagues since Noon; the +land seen then bearing South 63 degrees West bore now North 59 degrees +West, distant 7 or 8 Leagues and makes like an Island. Between this land +or Island and Cape Egmont is a very broad and Deep Bay or inlet the +South-West side of which we are now upon, and here the Land is of a +Considerable height, distinguished by Hills and Valleys, and the Shore +seems to form several Bays, into one of which I intend to go with the +Ship in order to Careen her (she being very foul) and to repair some few +defects, recruit our Stock of Wood, Water, etc. With this View we Keept +plying on and off all Night, having from 80 to 63 fathoms Water; at +daylight stood in for an inlet which runs in South-West.* (* Queen +Charlotte's Sound, in the north-east part of the Middle Island.) At 8 +a.m. we were got within the Entrance which may be known by a Reef of +Rocks stretching off from the North-West point, and some rocky Islands +lying off the South-East point. At 9 o'clock being little wind and +Variable we were carried by the Tide or Current within 2 Cables length of +the North-West Shore where we had 54 fathoms, but with the help of our +Boats we got Clear, at this time we saw rise up twice near the Ship a Sea +Lyon, the Head of which was Exactly like the head of the Male one +described by Lord Anson. We likewise saw a Canoe with some of the Natives +cross the Bay, and a Village situated upon a point of an Island, which +lies 7 or 8 miles with the Entrance. At Noon we were the length of this +Island, and being little wind had the Boats ahead Towing.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch6"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 6. EXPLORATION OF MIDDLE ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.</h2> + +<p>[January 1770. In Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>TUESDAY, 16th. Variable light Airs and Clear settled weather. At 1 p.m. +hauled close round the South-West end of the Island, on which stands the +Village before mention'd, the inhabitants of which were all in Arms. At 2 +o'Clock we anchor'd in a very Snug Cove,* (* Ship Cove, in Queen +Charlotte's Sound.) which is on the North-West side of the Bay facing the +South-West end of the Island in 11 fathoms; soft Ground, and moor'd with +the Stream Anchor. By this time several of the Natives had come off to +the Ship in their Canoes, and after heaving a few stones at us and having +some Conversation with Tupia, some of them Ventur'd on board, where they +made but a very short stay before they went into their Canoes again, and +soon after left us altogether. I then went ashore in the bottom of the +Cove, accompanied by most of the Gentlemen on board. We found a fine +Stream of Excellent Water, and as to wood the land is here one intire +forest. Having the Sean with us we made a few hauls and caught 300 pounds +weight of different sorts of fish, which were equally distributed to the +Ship's Company. A.M., Careen'd the Ship, scrubb'd and pay'd the Larboard +side. Several of the Natives Visited us this Morning, and brought with +them some stinking fish, which, however, I order'd to be bought up to +encourage them in this kind of Traffick, but Trade at this time seem'd +not to be their Object, but were more inclinable to Quarrel, and as the +Ship was upon the Carreen I thought they might give us some Trouble, and +perhaps hurt some of our people that were in the Boats alongside. For +this reason I fir'd some small shott at one of the first Offenders; this +made them keep at a proper distance while they stay'd, which was not long +before they all went away. These people declared to us this morning, that +they never either saw or heard of a Ship like ours being upon this Coast +before. From this it appears that they have no Tradition among them of +Tasman being here, for I believe Murtherers bay, the place where he +anchor'd, not to be far from this place;* (* Tasman's Massacre Bay lies +70 miles to the West-North-West.) but this cannot be it from the +Latitude, for I find by an Observation made this day at Noon that we are +at an Anchor in 41 degrees 5 minutes 32 seconds South, which is 15 miles +to the Southward of Murtherers Bay.* (* The bay in Queen Charlotte's +Sound in which the Endeavour anchored, Ship Cove, lies 7 miles within the +entrance on the western shore.)</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 17th. Light Airs, Calm and pleasant weather. P.M., righted +ship and got the other Side ready for heeling out, and in the Evening +Haul'd the Sean and caught a few fish. While this was doing some of us +went in the pinnace into another Cove, not far from where the Ship lays; +in going thither we meet with a Woman floating upon the Water, who to all +appearance had not been dead many days. Soon after we landed we meet with +2 or 3 of the Natives who not long before must have been regaling +themselves upon human flesh, for I got from one of them the bone of the +Fore arm of a Man or Woman which was quite fresh, and the flesh had been +but lately picked off, which they told us they had eat; they gave us to +understand that but a few days before they had taken, Kill'd, and Eat a +Boats Crew of their Enemies or strangers, for I believe they look upon +all strangers as Enemies. From what we could learn the woman we had seen +floating upon the Water was in this Boat and had been drowned in the +fray. There was not one of us that had the least doubt but what these +people were cannibals; but the finding this bone with part of the sinews +fresh upon it was a stronger proof than any we had yet met with, and, in +order to be fully satisfied of the truth of what they had told us, we +told one of them that it was not the bone of a man, but that of a dog; +but he, with great fervency, took hold of his Fore Arm, and told us again +that it was that bone: and to convince us that they had eat the flesh he +took hold of the flesh of his own Arm with his teeth and made Signs of +Eating. A.M., Careen'd, Scrub'd, and pay'd the Starboard side of the +Ship; while this was doing some of the Natives came alongside seemingly +only to look at us. There was a woman among them who had her Arms, +thighs, and Legs cut in several place's; this was done by way of Mourning +for her Husband who had very lately been Kill'd and Eat by some of their +Enemies as they told us and pointed towards' the place where it was done, +which lay somewhere to the Eastward. Mr. Banks got from one of them a +Bone of the fore Arm, much in the same state as the one before mentioned; +and to show us that they eat the flesh, they bit and Naw'd the bone and +draw'd it through their Mouths, and this in such a manner as plainly +Shew'd that the flesh to them was a Dainty Bit.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 18th. Winds mostly from the South-West; a gentle breeze and +Clear settled weather. P.M., righted the Ship and sent on shore all or +most of our empty Casks, and in the Morning the Coopers went about +Trimming them, and the Carpenters went to work to Caulk the sides and to +repair other defects in the Ship, while the seamen are Employ'd in the +hold Cutting Wood, etc., etc. I made a little Excursion in the pinnace in +order to take a View of the Bay, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander. We met with nothing remarkable, and as we were on the West side +of the Bay where the land is so closely cover'd with wood that we could +not penetrate into the country.</p> + +<p>Friday, 19th. Winds and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the +people the same. In the P.M. some of our people found in the Skirts of +the Wood 3 hip Bones of Men; they lay near to a Hole or Oven, that is a +place where the Natives dress their Victuals; this Circumstance, trifling +as it is, is still a further proof that these people eat human flesh. In +the A.M. set up the Forge to repair the Braces of the Tiller and such +other Iron work as was wanting. The Natives came alongside and sold us a +quantity of large Mackrell for Nails, pieces of Cloth and paper, and in +this Traffick they never once attempted to defraud us of any one thing +but dealt as fair as people could do.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 20th. Winds Southerly and fair, pleasant weather. Employ'd +wooding, Watering, etc., and in the A.M. sent part of the Powder ashore +to be Air'd. Some of the Natives brought alongside in one of their Canoes +4 of the heads of the Men they had lately kill'd; both the Hairy Scalps +and Skin of the faces were on. Mr. Banks bought one of the 4, but they +would not part with any of the other on any account whatever. The one Mr. +Banks got had received a blow on the Temple that had broke the Skull. +This morning I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander, in order to Survey the West Coast of the Bay; we took our rout +towards the head of the Bay, but it was near noon before we had got +beyond the place we had been before.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 21st. P.M., a Gentle breeze of Wind Southerly, the remainder +light Airs and Calm with clear, settled weather. P.M., the people +employ'd as usual, and at 8 o'Clock we return'd on board the Pinnace from +surveying the bay, in the doing of which I met with an Excellent Harbour, +but saw no inhabitants or any Cultivated land. In the A.M. after hauling +the Sean for fish, I gave every body leave to go ashore at the Watering +place to amuse themselves as they thought proper.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22nd. P.M., and in the night had variable light Airs and Calms. +A.M., had a fresh breeze Southerly and Cloudy weather. In the morning the +people were set about the necessary business of the Ship, and I set out +in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a view of +examining the head of the inlet, but after rowing between 4 and 5 Leagues +up it, and finding no probability of reaching it, or even seeing the +end,* (* The head of Queen Charlotte's Sound is 20 miles from where the +Endeavour was lying.) the wind being against us and the day already half +spent; we landed at Noon on the South-East side in order to try to get +upon one of the Hills, to view the inlet from thence.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23rd. P.M., Winds Southerly, a fresh breeze. Agreeable to what +is mentioned above I took one hand with me and Climbed up to the Top of +one of the Hills, but when I came there I was hindered from seeing up the +inlet by higher hills, which I could not come at for impenetrable woods, +but I was abundantly recompensed for the trouble I had in assending the +Hill, for from it I saw what I took to be the Eastern Sea, and a Strait +or passage from it into the Western Sea; a little to the Eastward of the +Entrance of the inlet in which we now lay with the Ship. The Main land +which lies on the South-East side of this inlet appeared to me to be a +narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form a part of the South-West +side of the Strait;* (* Cook's Strait, which divides the two islands of +New Zealand.) the land on the opposite side seem'd to tend away East, as +far as the Eye could see. To the South-East appeared an Open Sea, and +this I took to be the Eastern. I likewise saw some Islands lying on the +East side of the inlet, which before I had taken to be a part of the main +land. As soon as I had desended the hill and we had refreshed ourselves, +we set out in order to return to the Ship, and in our way passed through +and Examin'd the Harbours, Coves, etc., that lay behind the Islands above +mentioned. In this rout we met with an old Village in which were a good +many Houses, but no Body had lived in them lately; we likewise saw +another that was inhabited, but the day being so far spent, that we had +not time to go to it, but made the best of our way to the Ship, which we +reached between 8 and 9 o'Clock. In the night had much rain with Cloudy, +Hazey weather, which continued by intervals until Noon.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24th. P.M., had a fresh breeze southerly and cloudy weather. +After dinner I employ'd myself in carrying on the survey of the place, +and upon one of the Islands where I landed were a number of houses but no +inhabitants, neither had any been there lately. In the morning the Gunner +was sent ashore with the remainder of the powder to-day, and the Long +boat was sent with a Gang of hands to one of the Islands to cut Grass for +our Sheep, and the rest of the people were employ'd about the usual work +of the Ship. This forenoon some of us visited the Hippa which is situated +on the point of the Island mentioned on our first arrival;* (* Motuara.) +the inhabitants of this place shew'd not the least dislike at our coming, +but, on the contrary, with a great deal of seeming good nature shew'd us +all over the place. We found among them some human bones, the flesh of +which they told us they had eat; they likewise informed us that there was +no passage into the Sea thro' this inlet, as I had imagined their was, +because above where I was in the Boat it turn'd away to the Westward. +Leaving these people, we Travelled to the other end of the Island, and +there took Water and Crossed over upon the Main, where we met with +several Houses that were at present, or had very lately been, inhabited, +but we saw but very few of the inhabitants, and these were in their Boats +fishing; after Viewing this place we returned on board to Dinner.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25th. Winds at North West, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. +P.M. the Long boat having return'd with a Load of Grass, she was employ'd +bringing on board Wood and Water, and the Caulkers having finished +Caulking the Ship's sides (a thing they have been employ'd upon ever +since we came here), they were pay'd with Tar. Early in the A.M. the Long +boat was sent again for Grass, and return'd at Noon with a Load.</p> + +<p>Friday, 26th. Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. In the P.M. I made a +little Excursion in the pinnace along shore towards the Mouth of the +inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We found in a small +Cove several of the Natives, of whom we purchased a quantity of fresh +fish; and upon our return to the Ship found that the Sean had been +equally as Successfull, which we generally haul morning and evening, and +seldom fail of getting fish sufficient for all hands. In the A.M. I made +an Excursion into one of the Bays which lye on the East side of the +inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. Upon our landing we +assended a very high hill, from which we had a full View of the passage I +had before discovered, and the land on the opposite shore, which appeared +to be about 4 Leagues from us; but as it was hazey near the Horizon we +could not see far to the South-East. However, I had now seen enough of +this passage to Convince me that there was the Greatest probability in +the World of its running into the Eastern Sea, as the distance of that +Sea from this place cannot Exceed 20 Leagues even to where we where. Upon +this I resolved after putting to Sea to Search this passage with the +Ship. We found on the Top of the Hill a parcel of loose stones, of which +we built a Pyramid, and left in it some Musquet balls, small Shott, +beads, and whatever we had about us that was likely to stand the test of +Time; after this we descended the hill, and found along with Tupia and +the boat's Crew several of the Natives, setting in the most free and +friendly manner imaginable. Tupia always accompanies us in every +Excursion we make, and proves of infinate Service. In our return to the +Ship we visited the Hippa we had seen on Tuesday last, which is situated +on a small Island, or rather a Rock. The inhabitants of this place +invited us ashore with their usual Marks of Friendship, and shew'd us all +over the place; which indeed was soon done, for it was very small, yet it +contain'd a good number of people, and they had in it, Split and hanging +up to dry, a prodidgious quantity of various sorts of small fish, a part +of which they sold to us for such Trifles as we had about us.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 27th. Fresh gales, Westerly. This day we got the Tiller +properly secured, which hath been the Employment of the Armourers and +part of the Carpenters since we Anchor'd at this place; the former in +repairing and making new Iron work, and the Latter in fixing a Transom,* +(* A transom is a curved piece of wood which supports the end of the +tiller.) for the want of which the Tiller has often been in danger of +being broke; the Iron braces that supply'd the want of a Transom have +broke every time they have been repair'd. Coopers still employ'd +repairing the Casks; some hands with the Long boat getting on board +Stones to put into the bottom of the bread room to bring the Ship more by +the Stern; while others were employ'd cutting wood, repairing the +rigging, and fishing.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 28th. Strong Gales westerly. P.M. fair and Cloudy, the remainder +thick, hazey weather, with much rain.</p> + +<p>Monday, 29th. Winds as yesterday. P.M. rainy weather, the remainder fair +and Cloudy. Pretty early in the A.M. an old man, who had made us several +visits upon our first Arrival here, came on board, and told us that one +of our boats had fir'd upon and wounded 2 of their people, one of which +was dead of his wounds. This affair hapned on Sunday was a week, and +never before now came to my Knowledge; on that day the Master and 5 Petty +officers desir'd to have a small boat to go a fishing; but instead of +Keeping within the usual bounds and under the protection of the Ship, +they went over to the Hippa on the Island, from which some of the +inhabitants put off in 2 Canoes, as they thought to attack them; this +Caused the Master to fire, and, according to the report of the old Man, +wounded 2, one of which is since dead; but this last circumstance was +soon after contradicted by another of the Natives, who Mr. Green and +Tupia saw ashore, and I wish this last report may be true, because I find +the reasons for firing upon them are not very Justifiable. This morning I +went out to the Mouth of the Inlet and landed upon the West point, and +from the Top of a pretty high hill which is there I had a view of this +Coast to the North-West. The farthest land I could see in that Quarter +was an Island* (* Stephens Island. Cape Stephens, off which it lies, +forms the western termination of the strait, Cook's, between the two +islands of New Zealand. The Coast between this and Cape Jackson, where +Cook was standing, is thickly indented with inlets of great extent. The +two Capes were named after the Secretaries of the Admiralty.) about 10 +Leagues off, and lying pretty near the Main, and is the same as hath been +before mentioned. Between this Island and the place where I was lay some +other Islands close under the Shore, which forms several Bays, where +there appears to be safe Anchorage for Shipping. After I had set the +different points, etc., we Erected upon the Top of the Hill a Tower or +Pile of Stones, in which we left a Piece of Silver Coin, some Musquet +Balls, Beads, etc., and left flying upon it a piece of an old Pendant. +After this we return'd to the Boat, and in our way to the Ship visited +some of the Natives we met with along shore, and purchased of them a +small quantity of fish.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 30th. Winds at North-West, Gentle breezes, and fair weather. +Early in the A.M. a boat was sent to one of the Islands to get Sellery to +boil for the People's breakfasts. While our people were gathering it near +some empty huts about 20 of the Natives landed there--Men, Women, and +Children. They had no sooner got out of their Canoe than 5 or 6 Women set +down together, and cut and sacrificed themselves--viz., their Legs, +Shins, Arms, and Faces, some with Shells, and others with pieces of +Jaspar. So far as our people could understand them, this was done on +account of their husbands being lately killed and devoured by their +Enemies. While the women was performing this Ceremony, the Men went about +repairing the Huts without showing the least Concern. The Carpenter went +with part of his people into the Woods to cut and Square some Timber to +saw into boards for the use of the Ship, and to prepare two Posts to be +set up with inscriptions on them.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 31st. Little wind and Variable. In the P.M. the Carpenters +having prepared the 2 Posts with inscriptions upon them, setting forth +the Ship's Name, Month, and Year, one of them was set up at the Watering +Place, on which was hoisted the Union flag; and in the Morning I took the +other over to the Island which is known by the name of Motuouru, and is +the one that lies nearest to the Sea; but before I attempted to set up +the Post I went first to the Hippa, having Dr. Monkhouse and Tupia along +with me. We here met with the old Man I have before spoke of. The first +thing I did was to inquire after the Man said to be kill'd by our people, +and the one that was wounded at the same time, when it did not appear to +me that any such accidents had happened. I next (by means of Tupia) +explain'd to the old Man and several others that we were Come to set up a +Mark upon the Island, in order to shew to any ship that might put into +this place that we had been here before. They not only gave their free +Consent to set it up, but promised never to pull it down. I then gave +every one a present of one thing or another; to the old man I gave +Silver, three penny pieces dated 1763, and Spike Nails with the King's +Broad Arrow cut deep in them; things that I thought were most likely to +remain long among them. After I had thus prepared the way for setting up +the post, we took it up to the highest part of the Island, and after +fixing it fast in the ground, hoisted thereon the Union flag, and I +dignified this Inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and took +formal possession of it and the Adjacent lands in the Name and for the +use of his Majesty. We then drank her Majesty's health in a Bottle of +wine, and gave the Empty bottle to the old man (who had attended us up +the hill), with which he was highly pleased. Whilst the Post was setting +up we asked the old man about the Strait or Passage into the Eastern sea, +and he very plainly told us there was a Passage, and as I had some +Conjectures that the lands to the South-West of this Strait (which we are +now at) was an Island, and not a Continent, we questioned the old Man +about it, who said it consisted of two Wannuas, that is 2 lands or +Islands that might be Circumnavigated in a few days, even in 4. This man +spoke of 3 lands, the 2 above mentioned which he called Tovy-poinammu,* +(* The two Wannuas were doubtless the peninsulas lying west of Queen +Charlotte's Sound. The third was the North Island. Te Wai Pounamu (The +Water of the Greenstone, of which the most prized weapons were made) is +the native name of the Middle Island; but there must have been some +confusion as to the possibility of getting round this in four days. The +name of the North Island is Te Ika o Maui (The Fish of Maui), but is +given by Cook as Aeheino Mouwe. It has been suggested (Rusden) that the +name given to him was Tehinga o Maui (The Fishing of Maui), and +imperfectly rendered.) which Signifies green Talk or Stone, such as they +make their Tools or ornaments, etc., and for the third he pointed to the +land on the East side of the Strait; this, he said, was a large land, and +that it would take up a great many Moons to sail round it; this he called +Aeheino Mouwe, a name many others before had called it by. That part +which borders on the strait he called Teiria Whitte. After we had done +our business upon the Island we returned on board, bringing the old Man +along with us, who after dinner went ashore in a Canoe that came to +attend upon him.</p> + +<p>[February 1770.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, February 1st. P.M. having compleated the Ship with wood, and +filled all our water, the Boatswain was sent ashore with a party of Men +to cut and make brooms, while others were Employ'd about the rigging, +fishing, etc. In the night and the remainder of the day had a Strong Gale +from the North-West, attended with very much rain.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd. In the P.M. the Gale increased to a Storm, attended with +rain and squalls, which came down in Excessive heavy gusts from off the +high land, in one of which the hawser we had fast to the shore broke; +this obliged us to let go another Anchor. Towards midnight the Gale +moderated, and in the morning it fell Calm, and we took up the Sheet +Anchor, looked at the best bower, and moored the ship again to the Shore. +The heavy rain, which both fell and Continues to fall, hath caused the +Brook we water'd at to overflow its banks, and carry away 10 small Casks +we had Standing there full of Water, and notwithstanding we searched the +whole Cove, we could not find one of them.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3rd. Winds Northerly, mostly fair weather. Very early in the +A.M. sent the Long boat for Sellery to boil for the Ship's Company's +breakfast, and as I intended sailing the first opportunity, I went over +to the Hippa, which is on the East side of the sound, and purchased of +the inhabitants a quantity of split and half dry'd fish, and such as I +could get. While we were at this Hippa, Tupia made farther enquiry about +the Lands and Strait, and these people confirm'd everything the old Man +had before told us. About noon we took our leave of them, which some +seem'd not sorry for; notwithstanding they sold us their fish very +freely, there were some few among them who shew'd evident signs of +disapprobation.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 4th. Winds Northerly, a fresh breeze and fair weather. In the +P.M., after returning from the Hippa, some of us made an Excursion along +shore to the Northward, in order to Traffic with the Natives for fish, in +which we had no great Success. In the evening got everything off from the +Shore, designing to sail in the Morning, but the wind not permitting, we +amused ourselves in fishing, collecting of shells, etc.</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. In the A.M. Cast off the +Hawser, hove short on the Bower, and carried out the Kedge Anchor, in +order to warp the Ship out of the Cove. All the dry fish we have been +able to procure from the Natives since we came here were this day divided +amongst the Ship's Company.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. At 2 p.m. hove up the Anchor, warped the Ship out of the +Cove, and got under Sail, but it soon after falling little wind, and that +very Variable, we anchor'd again a little above Motu-ouru. The old man, +seeing us under sail, came on board to take his leave of us. Amongst +other conversation that passed between him and Tupia, he was asked if +either he or any of his Ancestors had ever seen or heard of any Ship like +this being in these parts; to which question he answer'd in the Negative, +but said that his Ancestors had told him that there came once to this +place a small Vessel from a distant part, wherein were 4 Men that were +all kill'd upon their landing; and being asked where this distant land +lay, he pointed to the North, intimating that it would take up a great +many days to go thither. Something of this land was mentioned by the +People of the Bay of Islands, who said that some of their Ancestors had +been there; but it is very clear to us that there knowledge of this land +is only traditionary.* (* This was doubtless the tradition current among +the Maoris, that their ancestors came from islands to the north. See Note +below.) Had it Calm all night until 6 o'clock in the Morning, when a +light breeze sprung up at North, and we got again under sail; but as the +wind proved very unsteady, we got no farther than just without Motu-ouru +by noon, but had a fair prospect of getting clear out of the Sound, which +I shall next describe.</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND.</p> + +<p>The entrance of this Sound is situated in the Latitude of 41 degrees +South and Longitude 184 degrees 45 minutes West, and near the middle of +the South-West side of the Strait before mentioned. The land off the +South-East head of the Sound called by the Natives, Koamaroo (off which +lies 2 Small Islands and some rocks) makes the Narrowest part of the +Strait. There stretcheth out 2 Miles North-East by North from the +North-West head a reef of rocks, a part of which is above Water. This +account of the 2 Heads will be found sufficient guide to know this sound, +which is 3 Leagues broad at the Entrance, and lies in South-West by +South-South-West, and West-South-West at least 10 Leagues, and is a +collection of some of the finest harbours in the world, as will evidently +appear from the plan which was taken with all the accuracy that time and +Circumstances would admit. The Harbour or Cove in which we lay, called +Ship Cove, is not inferior to any in the Sound, both in point of Security +and other Conveniences. It lies on the West side of the Sound, and is the +Southermost of 3 Coves lying within Motu-ouru, which Island bears East +from it. You may sail into this Cove either between this last mentioned +Island and the Isle Hamote, or Long Island, or between Motuouru and the +West shore; in this last Channell are 2 Ledges of Rocks 3 fathoms under +water, but they may be known by the Sea Weed which grows upon them. In +sailing in or out of this sound with little wind attention must be had to +the Tides, which flow 9 or 10 o'Clock full and Change of the Moon, and +rises and falls upon a Perpendicular 7 or 8 feet. The flood comes in +through the Strait from the South-East, and sets strong over upon the +North-West Head and the reef laying off it; the Ebb sets with great +rapidity to the South-East over upon the Islands and Rocks lying off the +South-East Head. The Variation of the Compass from good observations we +found to be 13 degrees 5 minutes East. The land about this Sound is of +such height that we first saw it at the distance of 20 Leagues. It +consists wholy of high hills and deep Valleys, well stored with a variety +of excellent Timber, fit for all purposes except Ships' Masts, for which +use it is too hard and heavy. The Sea abounds with a variety of fish, and +in such plenty that, without going out of the Cove where we lay, we +caught daily, what with the Sean, Hook, and Lines, quite sufficient for +all hands, and upon our first arrival we found plenty of Shags and some +few other Wild Fowls, which to people in our situation was fresh food not +to be dispised. The Number of Inhabitants hardly exceeds 300 or 400 +People. They live dispers'd along the Shore in search of their daily +bread, which is fish and firn roots, for they Cultivate no part of the +lands. Upon the appearance of danger they Retire to their Hippas or +strongholds, for in this situation we found them, and they remain'd so +for some days after. This people are poor when compared to many we have +seen, and their Canoes are mean and without ornament. The little Traffick +we had with them was wholy for fish, for we saw little else they had to +dispose of. They had some knowledge of Iron, for they very readily took +Nails in Exchange for fish, and sometimes Prefer'd them to anything else, +which was more than the people of any other place would do. They were at +first fond of Paper, but when they found it spoile by being wet they +would not take it; nor did they set much value upon the cloth we got at +George's Island, but shew'd an extraordinary fondness for English broad +cloth and red Kersey, which shew'd them to be a more sensible People than +many of their Neighbours. Besides the common dress, many of these People +wore on their Heads round Caps made of Birds' feathers, which were far +from being unbecoming.* (* Cook was not able to explore the whole of +Queen Charlotte's Sound, which runs into the land for 25 miles. Towards +the southern end is Picton, the port of Blenheim, the capital of the +province of Marlborough.)</p> + +<p>[In Cook's Strait, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th. In the P.M. had a light breeze at North by West, with +which we got out of the Sound and stood over to the Eastward, in order to +get the Strait well open before the tide of Ebb Made. At 7 the 2 Small +Islands which lies off Cape Koamaroo, or the South-East head of Queen +Charlotte's Sound, bore East, distant 4 miles. At this time we had it +nearly Calm, and the tide of Ebb making out, we were Carried by the +Rapidity of the Stream in a very short time close upon one of the +Islands,* (* The Brothers. There is now a lighthouse on this island.) +where we narrowly escaped being dashed against the Rocks by bringing the +Ship to an Anchor in 75 fathoms Water, with 150 fathoms of Cable out. +Even this would not have saved us had not the Tide, which first set South +by East, by meeting with the Island changed its direction to South-East, +and carried us past the first point. When the Ship was brought up she was +about 2 Cables' Lengths of the Rocks and in the Strength of the Stream, +which set South-East at least 4 or 5 Knotts or miles per Hour. A little +before 12 o'Clock the Tide abated, and we began to heave; by 3 the Anchor +was at the bows, and having a light breeze at North-West, we made sail +over for the Eastern Shore; but having the tide against us we made but +little way. The wind afterwards freshned, and Came to North and +North-East, with which and the tide of Ebb we were in a short time +hurried thro' the narrowest part of the Strait, and then stood away for +the Southermost land we had in sight, which bore from us South by West. +Over this land appeared a Prodigious high Mountain,* (* The Kairoura +Range, the summit of which is 9500 feet high.) the Summit of which was +covered with snow. The narrowest part of the Strait we have passed lies +between Cape Koamaroo on Tovy-poinammu and Cape Teerawhitte on +Aeheino-mouwe; the distance from the one to the other I judged to be +between 4 and 5 Leagues. And notwithstanding the strength of the Tides, +now that is known, there is no great danger in passing it; in the doing +of which I am of opinion that the North-East Shore is the safest to keep +upon, for upon that side there appeared no danger, whereas on the other +shore there are not only the Islands and Rocks lying off Cape Koamaroo, +for I discover'd from the hill from which I had the Second View of the +Strait, a Reef of Rocks stretching from these Islands 6 or 7 Miles to the +Southward, and lay about 2 or 3 Miles off from the Shore. I shall not +pretend here to assign limits to the length of this Strait; a view of the +Chart will best illustrate that. About North 9 Leagues from Cape +Teerawhitte, under the same shore, is a high remarkable Island, that may +be distinctly seen from Queen Charlotte Sound, from which it lies +North-East by East 1/4 East, distant 6 or 7 Leagues. I have called it +Entry Isle, and was taken Notice of when we first past it on Sunday 14th +of last Month. On the East side of Cape Teerawhitte the Land Trends away +South-East by East about 8 Leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the +Southermost land on Aeheinomouwe, which I have named Cape Pallisser in +Honour of my worthy friend Capt. Pallisser.* (* Captain Palliser, +afterwards Sir Hugh, was Captain of the Eagle, Cook's first ship in the +Royal Navy. He discovered Cook's talents, and was his warm friend +throughout his life. Between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser is the +entrance to Port Nicholson, wherein is situated Wellington, the capital +of New Zealand. This entrance is, however, narrow, and Cook was never +near enough to the land to discover it.) Latitude 41 degrees 34 minutes, +Longitude 183 degrees 58 minutes, it bore from us this day at Noon South +79 degrees East, distant 12 or 13 Leagues, being then in the Latitude of +41 degrees 27 minutes South; at the same time Cape Koamaroo bore North +1/2 East, distant 7 or 8 Leagues. The Southermost point of land in sight +bore South 16 degrees West, and the snowy Mountain South-West being about +3 Leagues from the shore and abreast of a Deep Bay or inlet called Cloudy +bay, in the bottom of which appear'd low land cover'd with tall Trees.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 8th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-North-East and +Cloudy weather. At 3 o'Clock was abreast of the Southermost point of land +set at Noon, which I named Cape Campbell, Latitude 41 degrees 42 minutes +South, Longitude 184 degrees 47 minutes West, it lies South by West, +distant 12 or 13 Leagues from Cape Koamaroo, and together with Cape +Pallisser forms the Southern Entrance of the Straits; the Distance of the +one to the other is 13 or 14 Leagues West by South and East by North. +From this Cape we steer'd along Shore South-West by South until 8 +o'Clock, when the wind died away; but an Hour after a fresh breeze sprung +up at South-West, and we put the Ship right before it. The reason of my +doing this was owing to a notion, which some of the Officers had just +started, that Aeheinomouwe was not an Island; founding their opinion on a +supposition that the land might extend away to the South-East from +between Cape Turnagain and Cape Pallisser, there being a space of about +12 or 13 leagues which we had not seen. For my own part, I had seen so +far into this Sea the first time I discover'd the Strait, together with +many other Concurrent testimonies of its being an Island, that no such +supposition ever enter'd my thoughts; but being resolved to clear up +every doubt that might Arise on so important an Object, I took the +opportunity of the Shifting of the Wind to Stand to the Eastward, and +accordingly steer'd North-East by East all night. At 9 o'Clock A.M. we +were abreast of Cape Pallisser, where we found the Land trend away +North-East towards Cape Turnagain, which I reckon'd to be distant from us +about 26 Leagues, but as the weather was hazey so that we could not see +above 4 or 5 Leagues ahead, we Still kept standing to the North-East, +with a light breeze at South. At Noon Cape Pallisser bore North 72 +degrees West, distant 3 Leagues; our Latitude by account is 41 degrees 30 +minutes South.</p> + +<p>[Complete the Circuit of North Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 9th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-East, hazey Cloudy +weather. In the P.M. 3 Canoes came off to the Ship, wherein were between +30 and 40 of the Natives, who had been pulling after us sometime. It +appeared from the behaviour of these people that they had heard of our +being upon the Coast, for they came alongside, and some of them on board +the Ship, without shewing the least signs of fear. They were no sooner on +board than they asked for Nails, but when Nails was given them they asked +Tupia what they were, which was plain that they had never seen any +before; yet they not only knowed how to ask for them, but know'd what use +to make of them, and therefore must have heard of Nails, which they call +Whow, the name of a Tool among them made generally of bone, which they +use as a Chisel in making Holes, etc. These people asking so readily for +Nails proves that their connections must extend as far North as Cape +Kidnapper, which is 45 Leagues, for that was the Southermost place on +this side the coast we had any Traffick with the Natives; and it is most +probable that the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's sound got the little +knowledge they seem'd to have of Iron by the Connections they may have +with the Teerawhitteans bordering upon them; for we have no reason to +think that the inhabitants of any part of this land had the least +knowledge of Iron before we came amongst them. After a short stay these +people were dismissed with proper presents, and we continued our Course +along shore to the North-East until 11 o'Clock A.M., when the weather +clear'd up, and we saw Cape Turnagain bearing North by East 1/4 East, +distant 7 Leagues. I then called the Officers upon deck, and asked them +if they were now satisfied that this land was an Island; to which they +answer'd in the Affirmative, and we hauled our wind to the Eastward.* (* +The Endeavour had now completely circumnavigated the North Island of New +Zealand, having spent four months in the exploration. That Cook had +communicated his enthusiasm to his officers is evident; or, knowing his +determination to leave nothing doubtful, they would not have started the +idea that the North Island might not be really an island. The natural +wish after so many months' absence from civilization must have been to +get back to it, and to take things for granted that would otherwise delay +their progress.) At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40 degrees 55 +minutes South, which is 21 Miles to the Southward of Cape Turnagain, it +bearing North by East, and Cape Pallisser by this day's run bears South +43 degrees West, 19 or 20 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. Gentle breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. At 4 +P.M. Tack'd and stood South-West until 8 A.M., when being not above 3 or +4 Miles from the Shore we Tack'd, and stood off 2 hours, and then stood +again to the South-West until noon, when being in the Latitude of 41 +degrees 13 minutes South, and about 2 Miles from the Shore, the land of +Cape Pallisser bearing South 53 degrees West, had 26 fathoms of water.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. P.M. had light breeze from the South-East. In the night it +was Calm until 9 a.m., when a Gentle breeze sprung up at East-North-East, +with which we made sail to the Southward, having a large swell rolling in +from that Quarter. At Noon was in the Latitude of 41 degrees 6 minutes +South, distant from the Shore 1 1/2 Leagues; a remarkable hillock,* (* +Castle Point.) which stands close to the Sea, bore North 1/2 East, +distance 4 Leagues. At this time 2 Canoes came alongside the Ship, with +whom we had some little Traffic, and then dismissed them.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-East, which +by sunset carried us the length of Cape Pallisser, and as the weather was +clear I had an opportunity of Viewing the land of this Cape, which is of +a height Sufficient to be seen in clear weather 12 or 14 Leagues, and is +of a broken and hilly surface. Between the foot of the high land and the +Sea is a border of low, flat land, off which lies some rocks, that appear +above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain the land near the shore +is in many places low and flatt, and appear'd green and pleasant; but +inland are many Hills. From Cape Pallisser to Cape Teerawhitte the land +is tollerable high, making in Table-points, and the Shore forms 2 Bays; +at least it appear'd so, for we were always too far off this part of the +Coast to be particular.* (* The northern of these was the entrance to +Port Nicholson, the harbour of Auckland.) The wind continued at +North-East until 12 at Night, when it died away, and veer'd round to the +West, and afterwards to South and South-South-East little wind, so that +by noon we had advanced no farther than 41 degrees 52 minutes South +Latitude. Cape Pallisser bearing North, distant 5 Leagues, and the Snowy +mountain bore South 83 degrees West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. P.M. light Airs at South-East, the remainder Calm. At Noon +found ourselves in the Latitude of 42 degrees 2 minutes South, Cape +Pallisser bearing North 20 degrees East, distant 8 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 14th. P.M. a fresh breeze sprung up at North-East, and we +Steer'd South-West by West for the Southermost land we had in sight, +which bore from us at sunset South 74 degrees West. At this time we found +the Variation to be 15 degrees 4 minutes East. At 8 A.M. it fell Calm; at +this time we had run 21 Leagues South 58 degrees West since Yesterday at +noon, which brought us abreast of the high Snowy mountain, it bearing +from us North-West in this direction. It lay behind a Mountainous ridge +of nearly the same height, which riseth directly from the Sea, and runs +Parrallel with the Shore, which lies North-East 1/2 North and South-West +1/2 South. The North-East end of the ridge takes its rise but a little +way inland from Cape Campbell. These mountains are distinctly seen both +from Cape Koamaroo and Cape Pallisser, being distant from the former +South-West 1/2 South 22 Leagues, and from the Latter West-South-West 30 +Leagues: but they are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater +distance. By some on board they are thought to be much higher than the +Peak of Teneriffe, which I cannot agree to; neither do I think them so +high as Mount Egmont, on the South-West Coast of Aeheinomouwe, founding +my opinion on the summit of the Latter being almost wholy covered with +Snow, whereas it only lies upon these in patches.* (* The highest peak of +the Kaikoura Mountains, Mount Tapuaepuka, is 9500 feet high. It is +therefore higher than Mount Egmont, but not so high as the Peak of +Teneriffe. The snow lies thicker on the western side of New Zealand +mountains, so Cook's parallel was fallacious. The Endeavour was now near +the Kaikoura Peninsula, where a small town stands at the present day, the +shipping port of an agricultural district.) At noon was in the Latitude +of 42 degrees 34 minutes South; the Southermost land we had in sight bore +South-West 1/2 West, and some low land that made like an Island lying +close under the foot of the Ridge North-West by North, distant about 5 or +6 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. In the P.M. 4 Double Canoes, in which were 57 Men, came +off to the Ship; they kept at the distance of about a Stone's throw from +us, and would not be prevailed upon to put alongside by all that Tupia +could say to them. From this we concluded that they never had heard of +our being upon the coast. At 8 p.m. a breeze sprung up at +South-South-West, with which we Stretched off South-East, because some on +board thought they saw land in that Quarter. We continued on this course +until 6 A.M., at which time we had run 11 Leagues, but saw no land but +that which we had left. Soon after this it fell calm, and continued so +for an hour; then a light breeze sprung up at West, which afterwards +veer'd to the North, and we stood to the Westward. At Noon our Latitude +by Observation was 42 degrees 56 minutes South, and the High Land we were +abreast of yesterday at Noon, North-North-West 1/2 West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th. In the P.M. had a light breeze North-East, with which we +steer'd West, edging in for the land, which was distant from us about 8 +Leagues. At 7 o'Clock the Southermost Extream of the land in sight bore +West-South-West, being about 6 Leagues from the Shore; soon after this it +fell Calm, and continued so most part of the night, with sometimes light +Airs from the land. At daylight we discover'd land bearing South by West, +and seemingly detached from the Coast we were upon; at 8 o'Clock a breeze +sprung up at North by East, and we steer'd directly for it. At Noon was +in the Latitude of 43 degrees 19 minutes South; the Peak on the Snowy +Mountains bore North 20 degrees East, distant 27 Leagues; the Southern +Extremity we could see of that land bore West, and the land discover'd in +the morning, making like an Island, extending from South-South-West to +South-West by West 1/2 West, distant about 8 Leagues; our Course and +distance sail'd since yesterday at Noon South-West by West, 43 Miles; +Variation by this Morning's Amplitude 14 degrees 39 minutes East.</p> + +<p>[Off Banks Peninsula, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 17th. P.M. stood to the Southward for the land above mention'd, +with the wind at North, a fresh breeze and Clear weather. At 8 o'Clock we +had run 11 Leagues since Noon, when the land extended from South-West by +West to North by West, being distant from the nearest shore about 3 or 4 +Leagues; in this situation had 50 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. Soon +after this it fell Calm, and continued so until 6 A.M., when a light +breeze sprung up at North-West, which afterwards veer'd to North-East. At +sun rise, being very Clear, we plainly discover'd that the last mentioned +land was an Island by seeing part of the Land of Tovy-poenammu open to +the Westward of it, extending as far as West by South. At 8 o'Clock the +Extreams of the Island bore North 76 degrees West and North-North-East +1/2 East, and an opening that had the Appearance of a Bay or Harbour, +lying near the South point North 20 degrees West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, +being in 38 fathoms, a brown Sandy bottom. This Island,* (* It is not an +island, but a mountainous peninsula, still called after Mr. Banks, but +from the lowness of the land it adjoins, looks like an island. On the +north side is the fine harbour of Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, a +town of nearly 40,000 inhabitants. The harbour on the south side, that +Cook saw, is Akaroa, a magnificent port.) which I have named after Mr. +Banks, lies about 5 Leagues from the Coast of Tovy poenammu; the South +point bears South 21 degrees West from the higher peak on the Snowy +Mountain so often mention'd, and lies in the Latitude of 43 degrees 52 +minutes South and in the Longitude of 186 degrees 30 minutes West, by +observations made of the Sun and Moon this morning. It is of a circular +figure, and may be about 24 Leagues in Compass; the land is of a height +sufficient to be seen 12 or 15 Leagues, and of a very broken, uneven +Surface, and hath more the appearance of barrenness than fertility. Last +night we saw smoke up it, and this morning some people, and therefore +must be inhabited. Yesterday Lieutenant Gore, having the Morning Watch at +the time we first saw this Island, thought he saw land bearing +South-South-East and South-East by East; but I, who was upon Deck at the +same time, was very Certain that it was only Clouds, which dissipated as +the Sun rose. But neither this, nor the running 14 Leagues to the South, +nor the seeing no land to the Eastward of us in the Evening, could +Satisfy Mr. Gore but what he saw in the morning was, or might be, land; +altho' there was hardly a possibility of its being so, because we must +have been more than double the distance from it at that time to what we +were either last night or this morning, at both of which times the +weather was Exceeding Clear, and yet we could see no land either to the +Eastward or Southward of us. Notwithstanding all this, Mr. Gore was of +the same opinion this morning; upon this I order'd the Ship to be wore, +and to be steer'd East-South-East by Compass on the other Tack, the point +on which he said the land bore at this time from us.* (* Another instance +of the general desire to leave nothing unexplored.) At Noon we were in +the Latitude of 44 degrees 7 minutes South; the South point of Banks +Island bore North, distant 5 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 18th. Gentle breezes at North and fair weather. P.M. stood +East-South-East in search of Mr. Gore's imaginary land until 7 o'clock, +at which time we had run 28 Miles since Noon; but seeing no land but that +we had left, or signs of any, we bore away South by West, and continued +upon that Course until Noon, when we found ourselves in the Latitude of +45 degrees 16 minutes South. Our Course and distance sail'd since +Yesterday is South 8 minutes East, 70 Miles; the South point of Banks +Island North 6 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 28 Leagues; Variation per +Amplitude this Morning 15 degrees 30 minutes. Seeing no signs of Land, I +thought it to no purpose standing any farther to the Southward, and +therefore hauled to the Westward, thinking we were far enough to the +Southward to weather all the land we had left; but this opinion was only +founded on the information we had had from the Natives of Queen +Charlotte's sound.* (* The ship was still 250 miles from the south point +of New Zealand.)</p> + +<p>Monday, 19th. P.M. had a Moderate breeze at North-North-West and North +until 8 o'clock, when it fell little wind, and was very unsettled until +10, at which time it fix'd at South, and freshen'd in such a manner that +before the morning it brought us under our close reeft Topsails. At 8 +a.m. having run 28 Leagues upon a West by North 1/2 North Course, and now +judging ourselves to be to the Westward of the Land of Tovy Poenammu, we +bore away North-West with a fresh Gale at South. At 10 o'clock, having +run 11 Miles upon this Course, we saw land extending from the South-West +to the North-West at the distance of about 10 Leagues from us, which we +hauled up for. At Noon our Latitude per observation was 44 degrees 38 +minutes South; the South-East point of Banks Island bore North 59 degrees +30 minutes East, distant 30 Leagues, and the Main body of the land in +sight West by North. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon +is North 66 degrees 45 minutes West, 96 Miles.</p> + +<p>[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 20th. All P.M. had little wind, which veer'd round from South by +East to North-North-East. Steer'd South-South-West, but got very little +to the Southward on account of a head Sea. At 2 o'Clock sounded in 35 +fathoms, fine sandy Bottom, being about 6 Leagues from the land. At 7 +o'Clock the Extreams of the land extending from South-West by South to +North by West, distant from the nearest shore 6 Leagues, depth of water +32 fathoms. At 12 o'Clock it fell Calm, and continued so until 4 A.M., +when a fresh breeze sprung up at South by West, with which we stood in +shore West by South, 4 Leagues, our Depth of Water from 32 to 13 fathoms. +In this last Depth we Tack'd and Stood off, being about 3 Miles from the +Shore, which lies nearly North and South, and is here very low and flatt, +and continues so up to the skirts of the hills, which are at least 4 or 5 +Miles inland. The whole face of the Country appears barren, nor did we +see any signs of inhabitants.* (* This is a little south of Timaru, a +rising town in a fertile district; so deceptive is appearance from the +sea.) Latitude at Noon 44 degrees 44 minutes South; Longitude made from +Banks' Island to this land 2 degrees 22 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 21st. Wind at South. A fresh Gale at 2 p.m., being in 50 +fathoms, and 12 Leagues from the land, we tack'd and stood in Shore until +8 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and Stood off until 4 a.m.; then Tack'd and +Stood in, at 8 o'Clock being 10 Leagues from the Land; had 57 fathoms. At +Noon, being in the Latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes, and 5 or 6 Leagues +from the land, had 36 fathoms; notwithstanding we have Carried as much +sail as the Ship could bear, it is apparent from the observed Latitudes +that we have been drove 3 Leagues to leeward since Yesterday.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22nd. Moderate breezes between the South-East and South by +West, and dark gloomy weather, with a Swell from the South-East plying to +windward, keeping between 4 and 12 Leagues from the land; depth of water +from 35 to 53 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. A great many Sea fowl and +Grampusses about the Ship. In the A.M. Condemn'd 60 fathoms of the B.B. +Cable,* (* B.B. stands for Best Bower, one of the principal cables. The +hempen cables of those days were a continual cause of solicitude, and +required great care.) and converted it into Junk; at Noon had no +Observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be about 3 Leagues +farther North than Yesterday.</p> + +<p>Friday, 23rd. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and for the most part +Cloudy weather. At sunset, the weather clearing up, presented to our View +a high peaked Mountain* (* There are so many lofty mountains in this +region that it is impossible to identify this. This ship was now no +farther south than she had been five days earlier.) bearing North-West by +North, and at the same time we saw the Land more Distincter than at any +time we had before, extending from North to South-West by South, the +inland parts of which appear'd to be high and Mountainous. We cannot tell +yet whether or no this land joins to, or makes a part of, the land we +have left; from the accounts received from the Natives of Queen +Charlotte's sound it ought not, because if it did it must have been +impossible for us to have sail'd round it in 4 Days; besides, the +Mountains inland and the soundings off the Coast seem to indicate this +Country to be more extensive than any they spoke of lying to the +Southward. Having a large hollow swell from the South-East, which made me +expect the Wind from the same quarter, we keept plying from 7 to 15 +Leagues from the land, depth of Water 44 to 70 fathoms; at Noon our +Latitude, by Observation, was 44 degrees 40 minutes South; Longitude made +from Banks's Island 1 degree 31 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 24th. Calm until 6 p.m., at which time a light breeze sprung up +at East-North-East, with which we steer'd South-South-East all night, +edging off from the Land because of a hollow swell which we had from the +South-East; depth of water from 60 to 75 fathoms. At daylight the wind +began to freshen, and before noon blowed a fresh Gale, and veer'd to +North-North-East; at 8 a.m. Saw the land extending as far as South-West +by South, which we steer'd directly for, and at Noon we were in the +Latitude of 45 degrees 22 minutes South; the land in sight extending from +South-West 1/2 South to North-North-West making high and hilly. Course +and distance run since Yesterday at Noon is South 15 degrees West, 47 +Miles. In the P.M., while we lay becalm'd, Mr. Banks, in a small Boat, +shott 2 Port Egmont Hens, which were in every respect the same sort of +Birds as are found in great Numbers upon the Island of Faro; they are of +a very dark brown plumage, with a little white about the under side of +their wings, and are as large as a Muscovy Duck. These were the first +that we have seen since we arrived upon the Coast of this Country, but we +saw of them for some days before we made land.</p> + +<p>[Off Otago, Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 25th. In the P.M. Steer'd South-West by South and South-West, +edging in for the land, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North, +which I was over desirous of making the most of, and by that means +carried away the Maintop Gallant Mast and Foretopmast Steering Sail Boom; +but these were soon replaced by others. Altho' we keept at no great +Distance from the Shore, yet the weather was so Hazey that we could see +nothing distinct upon the land, only that there were a ridge of Pretty +high Hills lying Parrallel with, and but a little way from, the Sea +Coast, which lies South by West and North by East, and seem'd to End in a +high Bluff point to the Southward, which we run the length of by 8 +o'Clock, when, being dark, and not knowing which way the Land Trended, we +brought too for the night, having run 15 Leagues upon a South-West 1/2 +West Course since Noon. The point bore at this time West, distant about 5 +Miles, depth of Water 37 fathoms, the bottom small pebble stones. At 4 +A.M. we made Sail, but by this time the Northerly wind was gone, and was +succeeded by one from the Southward, which proved very Var'ble and +unsteady. At day light the point above mention'd bore North, distant 3 +Leagues, and we found that the land trended away from it South-West by +West, as far as we could see. This point of land I have Named Cape +Saunders, in Honour of Sir Charles* (* Admiral Sir Charles Saunders was +First Lord of the Admiralty in 1766. He commanded the fleet at the +capture of Quebec in 1759, in which Cook served.) (Latitude 45 degrees 55 +minutes South; Longitude 189 degrees 4 minutes West). It requires no +discription to know it by, the Latitude and the Angle made here by the +Coast will be found quite sufficient; however, there is a remarkable +saddle hill laying near the Shore, 3 or 4 Leagues South-West of the Cape. +From 1 to 4 Leagues North of the Cape the Shore seem'd to form 2 or 3 +Bays, wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage and Shelter from South-West, +Westerly, and North-West winds.* (* One of these is Otago Harbour, where +lies Dunedin, perhaps the most important commercial city in New Zealand.) +I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning +when the Wind came to South-West, but the fear of loosing time and the +desire I had of pushing to the Southward, in order to see as much of the +Coast as possible, or, if this land should prove to be an Island, to get +round it, prevented me. Being not far from the Shore all this morning, we +had an Opportunity of Viewing the Land pretty distinctly; it is of a +Moderate height, full of Hills, which appear'd green and Woody, but we +saw not the least signs of inhabitants. At Noon Cape Saunders bore North +30 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. Latitude per Log, for we had no +Observation, 46 degrees 0 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. In the P.M. had the wind Whifling all round the Compass, +sometimes blowing a fresh Gale, and at other times almost Calm. At 5 +o'Clock it fixed at West-South-West, and soon blow'd so hard as to put us +past our Topsails, and to split the foresail all to pieces. After getting +another to the Yard, we continued standing to the Southward under 2 +Courses. At 1 A.M. the wind Moderating, set the Topsails with one Reef +out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm, with heavy +Squalls, attended with rain. This brought us again under our Courses, and +the Main Topsail being Split we unbent it and bent another. At 6 o'Clock +the Southermost land in sight bore West by North, and Cape Saunders bore +North by West, distant 8 Leagues; at Noon it bore North 20 minutes West, +distant 14 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 35 minutes.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th. A very hard gale at South-West by West, and +West-South-West, with heavy squalls attended with Showers of rain, and a +large hollow sea, without the least intermission the whole of this 24 +Hours. We continued under our Courses from Noon until 7 P.M., when we +handed the Mainsail, and lay too under the Foresail with the head to the +Southward. Latitude at Noon 46 degrees 54 minutes; Longitude made from +Cape Saunders 1 degree 24 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 28th. Strong Gale at South-West, with a large Sea from the +Same quarter. At 7 p.m. made sail under the Courses; at 8 a.m. set the +Topsails close reefed. At Noon, being in the Latitude of 47 degrees 43 +minutes South, and Longitude East from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 10 +minutes, wore and stood to the Northward.</p> + +<p>[March 1770.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, March 1st. Winds between the South-West and North-North-West, a +fresh gale. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 16 degrees 34 minutes +East. At 8 Tack'd and Stood to the Southward, with the wind at West, +which before the morning veer'd to North-West, accompanied with hazey +weather and drizzling rain; at day light loosed a reef out of Each +Topsail, and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latitude by account +was 47 degrees 52 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 +degree 8 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd. Strong Gales from the West, with heavy Squalls, attended +with showers of rain. In the P.M. Stood to the Southward till half-past +3, when being in the Latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South and Longitude +188 degrees 00 minutes West, and seeing no Visible signs of Land, we +Tack'd and Stood to the Northward, having a very large swell from the +South-West by West. Soon after we tack'd we close reef'd the Topsails, +and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at day light set them +again. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 46 degrees 42 minutes +South, Cape Saunders bearing North 46 degrees West, distant 68 Miles.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 3rd. P.M. Wind and weather as Yesterday. A.M. quite Moderate, +yet the South-West swell continues, which makes me conjecture that there +is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latitude was 46 degrees 42 +minutes South, being East of Cape Saunders 1 degree 30 minutes.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 4th. At 4 p.m. the Wind coming to the Northward we stood to the +Westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up +Topgallant yards, and set the sails; found the Variation to be 16 degrees +16 minutes East. Saw several Whales, Seals, and one Penguin; this bird +was but Small of the sort, but seem'd to be such a one as we had never +seen before. We have seen several Seals since we passed the Straits, but +never saw one upon the whole Coast of Aeheinomouwe. We sounded both in +the Night and the morning, but found no bottom with 150 fathoms Line; at +Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing North 1/2 West; our Latitude by +observation was 46 degrees 31 minutes South.* (* The Endeavour had been +blown off the land for seven days, and had barely recovered her +position.)</p> + +<p>[Off South Part of Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North by East. Half +past 1 saw Land bearing West by South, which we steer'd for; before dark +we were within 3 or 4 Leagues of it, and seeing no land farther to the +South we were in hopes this would prove the Southern point. At 7 shortned +sail, and kept under an easy sail all night, standing to the +West-South-West, having the wind at North-West, and North-North-West +until 2 a.m., when it fell Calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up at +South-East by South, and daylight coming on we made sail. During the +whole night we saw a large fire upon the land; a certain sign of its +being inhabited. At 7 the Extreams of the land bore from North 38 degrees +East to West 6 minutes South, being distant from the Shore about 3 +Leagues. The land appear'd of a Moderate height, and not hilly. At 1/2 +past 10 o'Clock the westermost land in sight bore West 1/2 North, distant +7 Leagues; at Noon had fresh Gales at South-South-East, and thick hazey +weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46 degrees 50 minutes +South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 56 minutes West.* +(* The ship was now off the south point of the Middle Island.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. P.M. Winds at South by East and South-East, and thick hazey +weather until 3 o'clock, when it clear'd up, and we saw the land +extending from North-East by North to North-West 1/2 North, and soon +after low land, making like an Island, bearing West 1/2 South. Keeping on +our Course to the West by South, we in 2 hours' time saw high land over +the low, extending to the Southward as far as South-West by South; we +could not see this land join to that to the Northward of us, there either +being a total seperation, a deep Bay, or low land between them. At 8 +o'Clock, being within 3 Leagues of the low land (which we now took to be +an Island* (* Ruapuke Island.)), we Tack'd and stood to the Eastward, +having the wind at South, which proved very unsettled all night; by which +means, and a little bad management, I found the Ship in the morning +considerably farther to the Eastward than I expected, and the wind +afterwards coming to South-West and West-South-West, so that at noon we +found ourselves much about the same place as we were Yesterday, our +Latitude by observation being 46 degrees 50 minutes South, the land +extending from North-East by East to West by North 1/2 North, the nearest +part bearing North, distance 3 Leagues; the land to the South-West just +in sight.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th. Light Airs in the South-West quarter. P.M. Clear weather, +remainder dark and Cloudy. In the P.M. found the Variation per several +Azimuths, and the Amplitude to be 15 degrees 10 minutes East, and by the +Amplitude in the morning to be 15 degrees 56 minutes East. Stood to the +South-East until 8 a.m., then tack'd and stood to the North-West; but it +soon after fell Calm, and continued so until noon, when by our account we +were in the Latitude of 47 degrees 6 minutes South, and had made 12 Miles +Easting since Yesterday at Noon.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 8th. Light Airs next to a Calm from South-South-East to +North-East, with which we kept Steering to the South-West, but made but +little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At daylight A.M. +we saw, or thought we saw, from the Masthead, the land which we have left +to the Northward of us joined to that to the South-West of us; and at the +same time we imagined we saw the land extend to the Southward as far as +South-South-West; but after steering this Course until noon we discovered +our Mistake, for there was no land to be seen to the Southward of West, +which Course we now steer'd, being by observation in the Latitude of 47 +degrees 12 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 2 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>[Off South Cape of New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 9th. P.M. Winds at North, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather. +Stood to the Westward until sunset, at which time the Extreams of the +land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 Leagues; Depth +of Water 55 fathoms; Variation by the Amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes +East. The wind now veer'd to the Westward, and as the weather was fine +and Moonlight we kept standing close upon a Wind to the South-West all +night. At 4 a.m. Sounded, and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discover'd +under our lee bow Ledges of Rocks, on which the Sea broke very high, +extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a +Mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a Rocky bottom. The +wind being at North-West we could not weather the Ledge, and as I did not +care to run to leeward, we tackt and made a Trip to the Eastward; but the +wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our +soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky +bottom. This Ledge lies South-East, 6 Leagues from the Southermost part +of the Land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which +stand near the Shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here, +for about 3 Leagues to the Northward of them is another Ledge of Rocks, +laying full 3 Leagues from the land, whereon the Sea broke very high. As +we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discover'd +the others close under our Lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a +very fortunate Escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lay as +such to catch unweary Strangers.* (* The dangerous Traps lie south and +east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last +got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther +south, the Snares, that Cook did not sight this voyage.) At Noon our +Latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude made +from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West, the land in sight--which has +very much the appearance of an Island* (* South or Stewart +Island.)--extending North-East by North to North-West by West, distant +from the Shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the Eastermost ledge of rocks bore +South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Leagues; and Northermost North-East 1/2 +East, 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height, and has a very barren +Aspect; not a Tree to be seen upon it, only a few Small Shrubs. There +were several white patches, on which the sun's rays reflected very +strongly, which I take to be a kind of Marble such as we have seen in +many places of this Country, particularly to the Northward.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. P.M. Moderate breezes at North-West by North and North +with which we stood close upon a Wind to the Westward. At sunset the +Southermost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape,* (* South +Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook's position for it is +wonderfully exact.) and which lies in the Latitude of 47 degrees 19 +minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore +North 38 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Westermost land in +sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small Island, lying off +the point of the Main.* (* Long Island, which lies, with others, on the +west side of Stewart Island.) I began now to think that this was the +Southermost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the West, +for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we +had the last gale of wind from that Quarter, which makes one think there +is no land in that direction. In the Night it began to blow, so that at +or before daylight we were brought under our 2 Courses; but at 8 a.m. it +fell moderate, and we set the Topsails close Reeft, and the Mizn and Mizn +Staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others. At Noon, the wind +Coming at West, we Tackt and stood to the Northward, having no land in +sight; our Latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South, +Longitude West from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh Gale, and +Clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without +seeing any land until 2 A.M., when we discover'd an Island bearing +North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw +the Land ahead, upon which we Tackt and stood off until 6 o'Clock; then +stood in, in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11, being about 3 +Leagues from the land, and the wind seem'd to incline on Shore, we Tackt +and stood off to the Southward. And now we thought that the land to the +Southward, or that we have been sailing round these 2 days past, was an +Island, because there appeared an Open Channell between the North part of +that land and the South part of the other in which we thought we saw the +Small Island we were in with the 6th Instant; but when I came to lay this +land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared +that there was but little reason to suppose it an Island. On the +contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to, and makes a part +of, the Mainland,* (* Cook was deceived, as Stewart is an island.) the +Western extremity of which bore at Noon North 59 degrees West, and the +Island seen in the Morning* (* This was called by Cook Solander Island.) +South 59 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24 +minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a +barren rock of about a Mile in Circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5 +Leagues from the Main. The shore of the Main lies nearest East by South +and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no +appearance of a Harbour or other place of safety for shipping against +South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very +rugged Aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the Summits of which +were several patches of Snow. However, the land is not wholy barren; we +could see wood, not only in the Valleys, but on several of the Hills; but +we saw no signs of inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. Fresh Gales between the West and North-West; latter part +squally, with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at +which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore, and stood +to the North-North-West, being then in the Latitude of 47 degrees 40 +minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a Hollow +Sea from the South-West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. Strong Gale between the South-West by West and +South-South-West, with a large Hollow sea from the same Quarter. In the +P.M. had frequent Squalls, with Showers of rain; in the night had several +very heavy squalls, attended with Showers of Hail, which obliged us to +take in our Topsails. During the night steer'd North-North-West until 6 +a.m., when, seeing no land, we steer'd North by East, and set the Main +Topsail, single reeft. At 8 set the Foretopsail, single reeft, and loosed +all the Reefs out of the Maintopsail, and Steer'd North-East by East 1/2 +East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and +appeared to be very high; but, being hazey over it, we could see nothing +distinct neither now nor at Noon, when, by Observation, we were in the +Latitude of 46 degrees 0 minutes South. Course and distance Sailed since +Yesterday North 5 degrees West, 96 Miles. Longitude made from the South +Cape 1 degree 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Off the New Zealand Sounds.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 14th. In the P.M. had a fresh Gale from the Southward, +attended with Squalls. At 2 it Clear'd up over the land, which appeared +high and Mountainous. At 1/2 past 3 double reeft the Topsails, and hauld +in for a Bay, wherein their appear'd to be good Anchorage, and into which +I had thought of going with the Ship; but after standing in an hour, we +found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blow'd too hard +to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to Windward; for these +reasons we gave it up, and bore away along shore. This bay I have named +Dusky Bay. It lies in the Latitude of 45 degrees 47 minutes South; it is +about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the Entrance, and seems to be full as deep. +In it are several Islands, behind which there must be Shelter from all +winds, provided there is a Sufficient Depth of Water.* (* Dusky Bay is +one of the remarkable inlets known now as the New Zealand Sounds. They +are very deep, narrow fiords, running into the high mountains, that here +come close to the shore, and are much visited now for the sake of the +grandeur of the scenery. Cook visited and surveyed Dusky Bay in his next +voyage. The Endeavour had nearly as much tempestuous weather in rounding +the south end of New Zealand as she had off the North Cape; but Cook +managed to get a very fair idea of the coast, notwithstanding, by dint of +perseverance.) The North point of this bay, when it bears South-East by +South, is very remarkable, there being off it 5 high peaked rocks, +standing up like the 4 fingers and thumb of a Man's hand; on which +account I have named it Point Five Fingers. The land of this point is +farther remarkable by being the only Level land near it, and extends near +2 Leagues to the Northward. It is pretty high, wholy cover'd with wood, +and hath very much the Appearance of an Island, by its aspect being so +very different from the Land behind it, which is nothing but barren rocky +Mountains. At Sunset the Southermost Land in sight bore due South, +distant 5 or 6 Leagues; and as this is the Westermost point of land upon +the whole Coast I have called it West Cape. It lies about 3 Leagues to +the Southward of the bay above-mentioned, in the Latitude of 45 degrees +54 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 17 minutes West. The land of +this Cape seems to be of a moderate height next the Sea, and hath Nothing +remarkable about it that we could see, Except a very White Clift 2 or 3 +Leagues to the Southward of it. The land to the Southward of Cape West +trends away towards the South-East; to the Northward of it it Trends +North-North-East and North-East. At 7 o'Clock brought the Ship too under +the Foresail, with her head off Shore, having a fresh Gale at South by +East. At Midnight it moderated, and we wore and lay her head in shore +until 4 a.m.; then made Sail, and Steer'd along shore North-East 1/2 +North, having a moderate breeze at South-South-East. At Noon we were by +observation in the Latitude 45 degrees 13 minutes South; Course and +distance sailed since Yesterday North 41 degrees East, 62 Miles; +Longitude made from Cape West 0 degrees 29 minutes East, being at this +time about 1 1/2 Leagues from Shore. Sounded, and had no ground with 70 +fathoms Line. A little before Noon we passed a little Narrow opening in +the land, where there appear'd to be a very Snug Harbour,* (* Doubtful +Sound, another of the fiords mentioned in note above.) form'd by an +Island, in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South; inland, behind +this Opening, were Mountains, the summits of which were Cover'd with Snow +that seem'd to have fallen lately, and this is not to be wondered at, for +we have found it very cold for these 2 days past. The land on each side +the Entrance of this Harbour riseth almost perpendicular from the Sea to +a very considerable Height; and this was the reason why I did not attempt +to go in with the Ship, because I saw clearly that no winds could blow +there but what was right in or right out, that is, Westerly or Easterly; +and it certainly would have been highly imprudent in me to have put into +a place where we could not have got out but with a wind that we have +lately found to blow but one day in a Month. I mention this because there +was some on board that wanted me to harbour at any rate, without in the +least Considering either the present or future Consequences.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. Clear weather, Winds at South-West and South-West by +South, a Gentle breeze, except in the night, when we had variable light +Airs and Calm. In the evening, being about 2 Leagues from the land, we +sounded, but had no ground with 103 fathoms. Variation per Azimuth 14 +degrees East, per Amplitude 15 degrees 2 minutes East. With what wind we +had we made the best of our way along shore to the North-East, keeping at +the distance of 2 or 3 Leagues off from the Land. At Noon we were in the +Latitude of 44 degrees 47 minutes, having run only 12 Leagues upon a +North-East 1/4 North Course since Yesterday at Noon; Longitude made from +Cape West 1 degree 3 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th. Winds at South-West; a fresh breeze and Clear. Steer'd +along shore North-East 1/4 East until 6 p.m., when we Shortned Sail, and +brought too for the Night. Variation per Azimuth 13 degrees 48 minutes +East. At 4 A.M. made sail, and Stood in for the land. At daylight saw the +appearance of an inlet into the land; but upon a nearer approach found +that it was only a deep Valley, bounded on each side by high lands, upon +which we bore away North-East 1/4 East along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 +miles off. At Noon the Northermost point of land in sight bore North 60 +degrees East, distant 10 Miles; Latitude per Observation 44 degrees 5 +minutes; Longitude made from Cape West 2 degrees 8 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 17th. Continued our Course along shore, having in the P.M. the +advantage of a fresh Gale at South-West. At 2, past by the point +afore-mentioned, which is of a Moderate height, with deep Red Clifts, +down which falls 4 Small streams of Water, on which account it is named +Cascades Point. Latitude 44 degrees 0 minutes South; Longitude 2 degrees +20 minutes East from Cape West. From this point the land at first Trends +North 76 degrees East, but afterwards more to the Northward +East-North-East, 8 Leagues. From this point and near the Shore lies a +small low Island, which bore from us South by East, distant 1 1/2 +Leagues. At 7 o'Clock we Shortned sail, and brought too under the +Topsails, with her head off Shore, having 33 fathoms, and fine sandy +bottom. At 10, had 50 fathoms, and at 12, wore in 65 fathoms, having +drove about 5 Miles North-North-West since we brought too. Two hours +after this had no ground with 140 fathoms; which shews that the soundings +extend but a little way from the land. From 2 to 8 a.m. had it Calm and +hazey, with drizzling rain, at which time a breeze sprung up at +South-West, with which we steer'd along shore North-East by East 1/4 +East, keeping about 3 Leagues from the land. At Noon had no Observation, +being Hazey with rain. Our run since Yesterday at Noon is North-East by +East, 55 Miles; Longitude from Cape West 3 degrees 12 minutes East.</p> + +<p>[Off West Coast of Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 18th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West, +attended with drizzling rain. At 8, being about 3 Leagues from the land, +shortned sail, and brought too, having run 10 Leagues North-East by East +since noon; at this time had 44 fathoms, and 2 hours before had 17 +fathoms, fine sandy bottom, being then about 1 League from the land. Had +it Calm the most part of the Night, and until 10 a.m., when a light +breeze sprung up at South-West by West. We Made sail along shore +North-East by North, having a large swell from the West-South-West, which +had risen in the Night. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 43 degrees 4 +minutes South; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday is North 54 +degrees East, 54 Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 4 degrees 12 +minutes East. The Mountains and some of the Vallies we observed this +morning were wholy cover'd with Snow, part of which we suppos'd to have +fallen in the P.M. and fore part of the Night, at the time that we had +rain--and yet the weather is not Cold.* (* They did not see Mount Cook, +12,300 feet high, and the highest mountain in New Zealand; no doubt the +summit was in the clouds.)</p> + +<p>Monday, 19th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at South-West by West and +West-South-West, which we made the most of until 6, when we shortned +sail, and at 10 brought too, and sounded 115 fathoms, judging ourselves +to be about 5 Leagues from the land. At midnight it fell little wind, on +which account we made sail. At 8 a.m. the wind veer'd to the North-West +by North, with which we stood to the North-East close upon a wind until +noon, at which time we Tack'd, being about 3 Leagues from the land, and +by Observation in the Latitude of 42 degrees 8 minutes and Longitude from +Cape West 5 degrees 5 minutes East* (* The Endeavour had passed the mouth +of the Grey River, the district of the great coalfields of New Zealand.) +Course and distance run since Yesterday at Noon North 35 degrees East, 68 +Miles; Depth of Water 65 fathoms, the land extending from North-East by +North to South-South-West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 20th. Fresh Gales at North-West by North and North by West. P.M. +fair weather; the remainder hazey, with rain, and Squall, which brought +us under close Reeft Topsails. Stood to the Westward until 2 a.m., when +we made a Trip to the Eastward, and afterwards stood to the Westward +until Noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the Latitude of 42 degrees +23 minutes South. Course and distance sail'd South 74 degrees West, 54 +Miles; Longitude made from Cape West 5 degrees 55 minutes East. Tack'd +and stood to the Eastward.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 21st. In the P.M. had a fresh Gale at North by West, attended +with rain until 6, when the Wind shifted to South and South-South-West, +and continued to blow a fresh Gale, with which we steer'd North-East by +North until 6 A.M., at which time we haul'd in East by North in order to +make the land which we saw soon after. At Noon our Latitude per Account +was 41 degrees 37 minutes, and Longitude from Cape West 5 degrees 42 +minutes East; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday North 60 degrees +East, 92 miles. At this time we were not above 3 or 4 Leagues from the +land, but being very foggy upon it we could see nothing distinct, and as +we had not much wind, and a prodigious swell rowling in upon the Shore +from the West-South-West, I did not think it safe to go nearer.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze from the +South-South-West, with which we steer'd along shore North-East until 8, +when being about 2 or 3 Leagues from shore we sounded, and had 34 +fathoms, upon which we haul'd off North-West by North until 11, then +brought too, having at this time 64 fathoms. At 4 a.m. made sail to the +North-East, wind at South-South-West, a light breeze. At 8 the wind +veer'd to the Westward, and soon after fell Calm; at this time we were +about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, and in 54 fathoms, having a large +swell from the West-South-West rowling Obliquely upon the Shore, which +put me under a good deal of Apprehension that we should be obliged to +Anchor; but by the help of a light Air now and then from the South-West +quarter we were Enabled to keep the Ship from driving much nearer the +shore. At Noon the Northermost land in sight bore North-East by East 1/4 +East, distant 8 or 10 Leagues; our Latitude by account was 40 degrees 55 +minutes South, Longitude from Cape West 6 degrees 35 minutes East; Course +and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 36 degrees East, 42 +Miles; very foggy over the Land.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Farewell, Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 23rd. Light Airs from the Southward, at intervals Calm, the fore +part hazey, the remainder clear, pleasant weather. At Noon our Latitude, +by observation, 40 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude from +Cape West 6 degrees 52 minutes East; the Eastermost point of Land in +sight* (* Cape Farewell, the north point of the Middle Island.) bore East +10 degrees North, distant 7 Leagues, and a bluff head or point we were +abreast of yesterday at Noon, off which lay some rocks above Water, bore +South 18 degrees West, distant 6 Leagues. This point I have named Rocks +Point, Latitude 40 degrees 55 minutes South. Having now nearly run down +the whole of this North-West Coast of Tovy Poenammu, it is time I should +describe the face of the Country as it hath at different times appeared +to us. I have mentioned on the 11th Instant, at which time we were off +the Southern part of the Island, that the land seen then was rugged and +mountainous; and there is great reason to believe that the same ridge of +Mountains extends nearly the whole length of the Island from between the +Westermost Land seen that day and the Eastermost seen on the 13th. There +is a space of about 6 or 8 Leagues of the sea Coast unexplored, but the +Mountains inland were Visible enough. The land near the Shore about Cape +West is rather low, and riseth with a gradual assent up to the foot of +the Mountains, and appear'd to be mostly covered with wood. From Point +Five Fingers down to the Latitude of 44 degrees 20 minutes there is a +narrow ridge of Hills rising directly from the Sea, which are Cloathed +with wood; close behind these hills lies the ridge of Mountains, which +are of a Prodidgious height, and appear to consist of nothing but barren +rocks, covered in many places with large patches of Snow, which perhaps +have lain there since the Creation. No country upon Earth can appear with +a more rugged and barren Aspect than this doth; from the Sea for as far +inland as the Eye can reach nothing is to be seen but the Summits of +these rocky Mountains, which seem to lay so near one another as not to +admit any Vallies between them. From the Latitude of 44 degrees 20 +minutes to the Latitude 42 degrees 8 minutes these mountains lay farther +inland; the Country between them and the Sea consists of woody Hills and +Vallies of Various extent, both for height and Depth, and hath much the +Appearance of Fertility. Many of the Vallies are large, low, and flatt, +and appeared to be wholy covered with Wood; but it is very probable that +great part of the land is taken up in Lakes, Ponds, etc., as is very +common in such like places. From the last mentioned Latitude to Cape +Farewell, afterwards so Called, the land is not distinguished by anything +remarkable; it rises into hills directly from the Sea, and is covered +with wood. While we were upon this part of the Coast the weather was +foggy, in so much that we could see but a very little way inland; +however, we sometimes saw the Summits of the Mountains above the fogg and +Clouds, which plainly shew'd that the inland parts were high and +Mountainous, and gave me great reason to think that there is a Continued +Chain of Mountains from the one End of the Island to the other.* (* This +is, to a great extent, the case.)</p> + +<p>Saturday, 24th. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-West, which by +Dark run us the length of the Eastern Point set at Noon, and not knowing +what Course the land took on the other side, we brought too in 34 fathoms +about one League from the land. At 8, it falling little wind, we fill'd +and stood on until 12, at which time we brought too until 4 a.m., then +made Sail. At daylight we saw low land extending from the above point to +the East-South-East as far as the Eye could reach, the Eastern Extremity +of which appear'd in round Hillocks; by this time the wind had veer'd to +the Eastward, which obliged us to ply to windward. At Noon the point +above mention'd bore South-West by South, distant 16 miles; Latitude +observ'd 40 degrees 19 minutes South. This point I afterwards named Cape +Farewell, for reasons which will be given in their proper place.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 25th. Winds Easterly; towards Noon had little winds and hazey, +with rain. Made several trips, but gain'd nothing to Windward, so that at +Noon our Situation was nearly as Yesterday.</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. At 3 p.m. the wind came to North, and we Steer'd +East-South-East with all the Sail we could set until dark, when we +shortned sail until the morning, having thick Misty weather. All Night we +keept the lead going continually, and had from 37 to 48 fathoms. At day +light we saw the land bearing South-East by East, and an Island laying +near it bearing East-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. This I knew to be the +Island* (* Stephens Island.) seen from the Entrance of Queen Charlotte's +sound, from which it bears North-West by North, Distant 9 Leagues. At +Noon it bore South-East, distant 4 or 5 miles, and the North-West head of +Queen Charlotte's sound bore South-East by South, distant 10 1/2 Leagues; +Latitude ohserv'd 43 degrees 33 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[In Admiralty Bay, Middle Island, New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th. Fresh breeze of Wind Westerly, and hazey, Misty weather, +with Drizling rain. As we have now Circumnavigated the whole of this +Country, it is time for me to think of quitting it; but before I do this +it will be necessary to compleat our Water first, especially as we have +on board above 30 Tons of Casks empty, and knowing that there is a Bay +between the above-mentioned Island and Queen Charlotte's sound, wherein +no doubt there is Anchorage and convenient Watering places. Accordingly, +in the P.M. we hauled round the Island and into the bay,* (* Admiralty +Bay.) leaving 3 more Islands* (* Rangitoto Islets.) on our Starboard +hand, which lay close under the West Shore 3 or 4 Miles within the +Entrance. As we run in we keept the lead going, and had from 40 to 12 +fathoms. At 6 we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Muddy bottom, under the West +Shore, in the Second Cove within the fore-mentioned Island. At daylight I +took a Boat and went to look for a Watering place, and a proper birth to +moor the Ship in, both of which I found convenient enough. After the Ship +was moor'd I sent an Officer ashore to Superintend the Watering, and the +Carpenter with his Crew to cut wood, while the Long boat was employed +carrying on shore Empty Casks.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 28th. Winds Westerly, which in the A.M. blow'd a fresh Gale, +attended with rain. Employ'd getting on board Wood and Water and fishing; +in the Latter we were pretty Successfull.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 29th. In the P.M. had a Strong Gale from the Westward. A.M. +Variable light Airs from the Eastward and hazey rainy weather the whole +day; which, however, did not prevent us getting on board Wood and Water.</p> + +<p>Friday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a moderate breeze; the first and +middle part dark, Hazey weather, with rain; the latter, fair. In the +A.M., as the wind seem'd to be settled at South-East, and having nearly +compleated our Water, we warped the Ship out of the Cove in order to have +room to get under Sail. Before this was done it was Noon, at which time I +went away in the Pinnace, in order to examine the Bay, and to Explore as +much of it as the little time I had would Admit.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 31st. In the P.M., after rowing a League and a half or 2 +Leagues up the Bay, I Landed upon a point of Land on the West side, +where, from an Eminency, I could see this Western Arm of the Bay run in +South-West by West, about 5 Leagues farther, yet did not see the Head of +it. There appeared to be several other inlets, or at least small bays, +between this and the North-West head of Queen Charlotte's sound, in every +one of which I make no doubt but what there is Anchorage and Shelter for +Shipping, as they are partly cover'd from the Sea wind by these Islands +that lay without them.* (* There is a maze of inlets and harbours between +Admiralty Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound, a distance of 20 miles.) The +land about this bay, at least what I could see of it, is of a very hilly, +uneven Surface, and appears to be mostly cover'd with wood, Shrubs, +Firns, etc., which renders Travelling both difficult and Fatiguing. I saw +no inhabitants, neither have we seen any since we have been in this bay, +but met with several of their Huts, all of which appear'd to have been at +least 12 Months deserted.</p> + +<p>Upon my return to the Ship, in the Evening, I found the Water, etc., all +on board, and the Ship ready for Sea; and being now resolv'd to quit this +Country altogether, and to bend my thought towards returning home by such +a rout as might Conduce most to the Advantage of the Service I am upon, I +consulted with the Officers upon the most Eligible way of putting this in +Execution. To return by the way of Cape Horn was what I most wished, +because by this rout we should have been able to prove the Existance or +Non-Existance of a Southern Continent, which yet remains Doubtfull; but +in order to Ascertain this we must have kept in a higher Latitude in the +very Depth of Winter, but the Condition of the Ship, in every respect, +was not thought sufficient for such an undertaking. For the same reason +the thoughts of proceeding directly to the Cape of Good Hope was laid +aside, especially as no discovery of any Moment could be hoped for in +that rout. It was therefore resolved to return by way of the East Indies +by the following rout: upon Leaving this Coast to steer to the Westward +until we fall in with the East Coast of New Holland, and then to follow +the direction of that Coast to the Northward, or what other direction it +might take us, until we arrive at its Northern extremity; and if this +should be found impracticable, then to Endeavour to fall in with the Land +or Islands discovered by Quiros.* (* Quiros, a Spanish navigator, +discovered in 1605 Espiritu Santo, the northern island of the New +Hebrides, which he supposed to be a part of a great southern continent. +Cook, in his second voyage, thoroughly explored the New Hebrides group; +and for some of the islands his charts are still the only guide.)</p> + +<p>With this view, at daylight we got under Sail and put to Sea, having the +Advantage of a fresh Gale at South-East and Clear weather. At Noon the +Island, which lies off the North-West point of the Bay, bore East 9 +degrees South, distant 10 Miles; our Latitude, by Observation, was 40 +degrees 35 minutes South. This bay I have named Admiralty Bay; the +North-West point Cape Stephens, and the East Point Jackson, after the 2 +Secretarys.* (* The two secretaries of the Admiralty, Philip Stephens and +George Jackson, both of whom showed great appreciation of Cook.) It may +always be known by the Island above mentioned, which is pretty high, and +lies North-East, 2 Miles from Cape Stephens; Latitude 40 degrees 37 +minutes South; Longitude 185 degrees 6 minutes West. Between this Island +and Cape Farewell, which is West by North and East by South, distant 14 +or 15 Leagues from each other, the Shore forms a large deep Bay, the +bottom of which we could hardly see in sailing in a Strait line from the +one Cape to the other; but it is not at all improbable but what it is all +lowland next the Sea, as we have met with less water here than on any +other part of the Coast at the same distance from Land; however, a Bay +there is, and is known on the Chart by the Name of Blind Bay, but I have +reason to believe it to be Tasman's Murderers' Bay.* (* Blind Bay is now +also known as Tasman Bay, and Massacre Bay is supposed to be a smaller +bay in it, on the north-western side.)</p> + +<p>Before I quit this land altogether I shall give a short general +discription of the Country, its inhabitants, their manners, Customs, +etc., in which it is necessary to observe that many things are founded +only on Conjecture, for we were too short a time in any one place to +learn much of their interior policy, and therefore could only draw +conclusions from what we saw at different times.</p> + +<p>[Description of New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>SOME ACCOUNT OF NEW ZEALAND.</p> + +<p>Part of the East* (* This should be West Coast.) Coast of this Country +was first discovered by Abel Tasman in 1642, and by him called New +Zeland; he, however, never landed upon it; probably he was discouraged +from it by the Natives killing 3 or 4 of his People at the first and only +place he Anchor'd at. This country, which before now was thought to be a +part of the imaginary Southern Continent, consists of 2 large Islands, +divided from each other by a Strait or Passage of 4 or 5 Leagues broad. +They are situated between the Latitude of 34 and 48 degrees South, and +between the Longitude of 181 and 194 degrees West from the Meridian of +Greenwich. The situation of few parts of the world are better determin'd +than these Islands are, being settled by some hundreds of Observations of +the Sun and Moon, and one of the Transit of Mercury made by Mr. Green, +who was sent out by the Royal Society to observe the Transit of Venus.</p> + +<p>The Northermost of these Islands, as I have before observed, is called by +the Natives Aeheinomouwe and the Southermost Tovy Poenammu. The former +name, we were well assured, comprehends the whole of the Northern Island; +but we were not so well satisfied with the latter whether it comprehended +the whole of the Southern Islands or only a part of it. This last, +according to the Natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound, ought to consist of +2 Islands, one of which at least we were to have sail'd round in a few +days; but this was not verify'd by our own Observations. I am inclinable +to think that they know'd no more of this land than what came within the +Limits of their sight.* (* As before remarked, the natives at Queen +Charlotte's Sound doubtless were speaking of the large peninsula and the +islands which lie west of the Sound. There is a spot at the isthmus where +canoes could be hauled over.) The Chart* (* See copy of this chart.) +which I have drawn will best point out the figure and Extent of these +Islands, the situation of the Bays and Harbours they contain, and the +lesser Islands lay about them.</p> + +<p>And now I have mentioned the Chart, I shall point out such places as are +drawn with sufficient accuracy to be depended upon and such as are not, +beginning at Cape Pallisser and proceed round Aeheinomouwe by the East +Cape, etc. The Coast between these 2 Capes I believe to be laid down +pretty accurate, both in its figure and the Course and distance from +point to point; the opportunities I had and the methods I made use on to +obtain these requisites were such as could hardly admit of an Error. From +the East Cape to Cape Maria Van Diemen, altho' it cannot be perfectly +true, yet it is without any very Material error; some few places, +however, must be excepted, and these are very Doubtfull, and are not only +here, but in every other part of the Chart pointed out by a Pricked or +broken line. From Cape Maria Van Diemen up as high as the Latitude of 36 +degrees 15 minutes we seldom were nearer the Shore than from 5 to 8 +Leagues, and therefore the line of the Sea Coast may in some places be +erroneous. From the above Latitude to nearly the Length of Entry Island +we run along and near the shore all the way, and no circumstance occurd +that made me liable to commit any Material error. Excepting Cape +Teerawhitte, we never came near the Shore between Entry Island and Cape +Pallisser, and therefore this part of the coast may be found to differ +something from the truth; in Short, I believe that this Island will never +be found to differ Materially from the figure I have given it, and that +the Coast Affords few or no Harbours but what are either taken notice of +in this Journal, or in some Measure pointed out in the Chart; but I +cannot say so much for Tovy Poenammu. The Season of the Year and +Circumstance of the Voyage would not permit me to spend so much time +about this Island as I had done at the other, and the blowing weather we +frequently met with made it both dangerous and difficult to keep upon the +Coast. However, I shall point out the places that may be Erroneous in +this as I have done in the other. From Queen Charlotte's sound to Cape +Campbell, and as far to the South-West as the Latitude 43 degrees, will +be found to be pretty Accurate; between this Latitude and the Latitude 44 +degrees 20 minutes the coast is very Doubtfully laid down, a part of +which we hardly, if at all, saw. From this last mentioned Latitude to +Cape Saunders we were generally at too great a distance to be Particular, +and the weather at the same time was unfavourable. The Coast, as it is +laid down from Cape Saunders to Cape South, and even to Cape West, is no +doubt in many places very erroneous, as we hardly were ever able to keep +near the Shore, and were sometimes blown off altogether. From the West +Cape down to Cape Farewell, and even to Queen Charlotte's sound, will in +most places be found to differ not much from the truth.* (* Cook's open +and plain statement as to the comparative accuracy of different parts of +his chart is much to be commended. It has been too much the fashion with +first explorers to leave such matters to be discovered by the student. +But the astonishing accuracy of his outline of New Zealand must be the +admiration of all who understand the difficulties of laying down a coast; +and when it is considered that this coastline is 2400 miles in extent, +the magnitude of the task will be realised by everybody. Never has a +coast been so well laid down by a first explorer, and it must have +required unceasing vigilance and continual observation, in fair weather +and foul, to arrive at such a satisfactory conclusion; and with such a +dull sailer as the Endeavour was, the six and a half months occupied in +the work must be counted as a short interval in which to do it.)</p> + +<p>[Animals, Timber, etc., New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>Mention is likewise made in the Chart of the appearance or aspect of the +face of the Country. With respect to Tovy Poenammu, it is for the most +part very Mountainous, and to all appearance a barren Country. The people +in Queen Charlotte's sound--those that came off to us from under the +Snowy Mountain, and the five we saw to the South-West of Cape +Saunders--were all the inhabitants, or Signs of inhabitants, we saw upon +the whole Island; but most part of the Sea Coast of Aeheinomouwe, except +the South-West side, is well inhabited; and although it is a hilly, +Mountainous Country, yet the very Hills and Mountains are many of them +cover'd with wood, and the Soil of the plains and Valleys appear'd to be +very rich and fertile, and such as we had an opportunity to examine we +found to be so, and not very much incumber'd with woods.</p> + +<p>It was the Opinion of every body on board that all sorts of European +grain, fruit, Plants, etc., would thrive here; in short, was this Country +settled by an industrious people they would very soon be supplied not +only with the necessaries, but many of the Luxuries, of Life. The Sea, +Bays, and Rivers abound with a great Variety of Excellent Fish, the most +of them unknown in England, besides Lobsters, which were allowed by every +one to be the best they ever had eat. Oysters and many other sorts of +shell fish all Excellent in their kind. Sea and Water Fowls of all sorts +are, however, in no great plenty; those known in Europe are Ducks, Shags, +Gannets, and Gulls, all of which were Eat by us, and found exceeding +good; indeed, hardly anything came Amiss to us that could be Eat by Man. +Land fowl are likewise in no great plenty, and all of them, except +Quails, are, I believe, unknown in Europe; these are exactly like those +we have in England. The Country is certainly destitute of all sorts of +beasts, either wild or tame, except dogs and Rats; the former are tame, +and lived with the people, who breed and bring them up for no other +purpose than to Eat, and rats are so scarce that not only I, but many +others in the Ship, never see one. Altho' we have seen some few Seals, +and once a Sea Lion upon this Coast, yet I believe they are not only very +scarce,* (* There are a good many seals round the southern part of New +Zealand, and a regular fishery is now established on Stewart Island. Cook +saw nothing of the few natives that occupied the southern parts of the +Island.) but seldom or ever come ashore; for if they did the Natives +would certainly find out some Method of Killing them, the Skins of which +they no doubt would preserve for Cloathing, as well as the Skins of Dogs +and birds, the only Skins we ever saw among them. But they must sometimes +get Whales, because many of the Patta Pattoas are made of the bones of +some such fish, and an Ornament they wear at their breast (on which they +set great Value), which are supposed to be made of the Tooth of a Whale; +and yet we know of no method or instrument they have to kill these +Animals.</p> + +<p>In the woods are plenty of Excellent Timber, fit for all purposes except +Ships' Masts; and perhaps upon a Close Examination some might be found +not improper for that purpose. There grows spontainously everywhere a +kind of very broad-bladed grass, like flags of the Nature of Hemp,* (* +The New Zealand flax (Phormium Tenax) is now a considerable article of +commerce. It furnishes a very strong fibre, and is made into rope, etc.) +of which might be made the very best of Cordage and Canvas, etc. There +are 2 sorts, one finer than the other; of these the Natives make Cloth, +rope, Lines, netts, etc. Iron Ore is undoubtedly to be found here, +particularly about Mercury Bays, where we found great quantities of Iron +sand; however, we met with no Ore of any Sort, neither did we ever see +any sort of Metal with the Natives. We met with some stones at Admiralty +Bay that appear'd to be Mineral in some degree, but Dr. Solander was of +Opinion that they contain'd no Sort of Metal* (* Gold and coal have been +found in New Zealand in large quantities. Gold at Otago and Hokatika in +the South Island, and at Thames in the North. The coalfields round the +Grey River are enormous, and have no doubt a great future; and this +useful mineral is also found in the Bay of Islands, and other places in +the North Island. Other metals, as copper, silver, antimony, have also +been found and worked.) The white stone we saw near the South Cape and +some other parts to the Southward, which I took to be a kind of Marble, +such as I had seen on one of the Hills I was upon in Mercury Bay, Mr. +Banks--I afterwards found--was of Opinion that they were Mineral to the +highest degree; he is certainly a much better Judge of these things than +I am, and therefore I might be mistaken in my opinion, which was only +founded on what I had before seen not only in this Country, but in other +parts where I have been; and at the same time I must observe we were not +less than 6 or 8 Leagues from the Land, and nearer it was not possible +for us at that time to come without running the Ship into Apparent +Danger. However, I am no Judge how far Mineral can be distinguished as +such; certain it is that in Southern parts of this Country there are +whole Mountains of Nothing Else but stone, some of which, no doubt, may +be found to contain Metal.</p> + +<p>Should it ever become an object of settling this Country, the best place +for the first fixing of a Colony would be either in the River Thames or +the Bay of Islands; for at either of these places they would have the +advantage of a good Harbour, and by means of the former an Easy +Communication would be had, and settlements might be extended into the +inland parts of the Country. For a very little trouble and Expence small +Vessels might be built in the River proper for the Navigation thereof. It +is too much for me to assert how little water a Vessel ought to draw to +Navigate this River, even so far up as I was in the Boat; this depends +intirely upon the Depth of Water that is upon the bar or flat that lay +before the narrow part of the River, which I had not an opportunity of +making myself acquainted with, but I am of Opinion that a Vessel that +draws not above 10 or 12 feet may do it with Ease. So far as I have been +able to Judge of the Genius of these people it does not appear to me to +be at all difficult for Strangers to form a settlement in this Country; +they seem to be too much divided among themselves to unite in opposing, +by which means, and kind and Gentle usage, the Colonists would be able to +form strong parties among them.</p> + +<p>The Natives of this Country are a Strong, rawboned, well made, Active +People, rather above than under the common size, especially the Men; they +are of a very dark brown colour, with black hair, thin black beards, and +white teeth, and such as do not disfigure their faces by tattowing, etc., +have in general very good features. The Men generally were their Hair +long, Coomb'd up, and tied upon the Crown of their Heads; some of the +women were it long and loose upon their Shoulders, old women especially; +others again were it crop'd short. Their coombs are made some of bones, +and others of Wood; they sometimes Wear them as an Ornament stuck upright +in their Hair. They seem to enjoy a good state of Health, and many of +them live to a good old Age.* (* The Maoris were remarkable for +longevity, and for health and strength in old age.) Many of the old and +some of the Middle aged Men have their faces mark'd or tattow'd with +black, and some few we have seen who have had their buttocks, thighs, and +other parts of their bodies marked, but this is less common. The figures +they mostly use are spirals, drawn and connected together with great +nicety and judgement. They are so exact in the application of these +Figures that no difference can be found between the one side of the face +and the other, if the whole is marked, for some have only one side, and +some a little on both sides; hardly any but the old Men have the whole +tattow'd. From this I conclude that it takes up some time, perhaps Years, +to finish the Operation, which all Who have begun may not have +perseverance enough to go through, as the manner in which it must be done +must certainly cause intollerable pain, and may be the reason why so few +are Marked at all--at least I know no other. The Women inlay the Colour +of Black under the skins of their lips, and both sexes paint their faces +and bodies at times more or less with red Oker, mixed with fish Oil.</p> + +<p>[Clothing of New Zealanders.]</p> + +<p>Their common Cloathing are very much like square Thrumb'd Matts, that are +made of rope Yarns, to lay at the doors or passages into houses to clean +ones shoes upon. These they tie round their necks, the Thrumb'd side out, +and are generally large enough to cover the body as low as the knee; they +are made with very little Preparation of the broad Grass plant before +mentioned. Beside the Thrumb'd Matts, as I call them, they have other +much finer cloathing, made of the same plant after it is bleached and +prepared in such a Manner that it is as white and almost as soft as flax, +but much stronger. Of this they make pieces of cloth about 5 feet long +and 4 broad; these are wove some pieces close and others very open; the +former are as stout as the strongest sail cloth, and not unlike it, and +yet it is all work'd or made by hand with no other Instrument than a +Needle or Bodkin. To one end of every piece is generally work'd a very +neat border of different colours of 4 or 6 inches broad, and they very +often Trim them with pieces of Dog Skin or birds' feathers. These pieces +of Cloth they wear as they do the other, tying one End round their Necks +with a piece of string, to one end of which is fixed a Needle or Bodkin +made of Bone, by means of which they can easily fasten, or put the string +through any part of the Cloth; they sometimes wear pieces of this kind of +Cloth round their Middles, as well as over their Shoulders. But this is +not common, especially with the Men, who hardly ever wear anything round +their Middles, observing no sort of Decency in that respect; neither is +it at all uncommon for them to go quite Naked without any one thing about +them besides a belt round their waists, to which is generally fastened a +small string, which they tye round the prepuse; in this manner I have +seen hundreds of them come off to and on board the Ship, but they +generally had their proper Cloathing in the boat along with them to put +on if it rain'd, etc. The Women, on the other hand, always wear something +round their Middle; generally a short, thrumbd Matt, which reaches as low +as their Knees. Sometimes, indeed, I have seen them with only a Bunch of +grass or plants before, tyed on with a piece of fine platting made of +sweet-scented grass; they likewise wear a piece of cloth over their +Shoulders as the Men do; this is generally of the Thrum kind. I hardly +ever saw a Woman wear a piece of fine cloth. One day at Talago I saw a +strong proof that the Women never appear naked, at least before +strangers. Some of us hapned to land upon a small Island where several of +them were Naked in the Water, gathering of Lobsters and shell fish; as +soon as they saw us some of them hid themselves among the Rocks, and the +rest remain'd in the Sea until they had made themselves Aprons of the Sea +Weed; and even then, when they came out to us, they shew'd Manifest signs +of Shame, and those who had no method of hiding their nakedness would by +no means appear before us.</p> + +<p>The Women have all very soft Voices, and may by that alone be known from +the Men. The Making of cloth and all other Domestick work is, I believe, +wholy done by them, and the more Labourious work, such as building Boats, +Houses, Tilling the ground, etc., by the Men. Both men and women wear +ornaments at their Ears and about their Necks; these are made of stone, +bone, Shells, etc., and are variously shaped; and some I have seen wear +human Teeth and finger Nails, and I think we were told that they did +belong to their deceased friends. The Men, when they are dressed, +generally wear 2 or 3 long white feathers stuck upright in their Hair, +and at Queen Charlotte's sound many, both men and women, wore Round Caps +made of black feathers.</p> + +<p>[War Practices of New Zealanders.]</p> + +<p>The old men are much respected by the younger, who seem to be govern'd +and directed by them on most Occasions. We at first thought that they +were united under one head or Chief, whose Name is Teeratu; we first +heard of him in Poverty Bay, and he was own'd as Chief by every one we +met with from Cape Kidnappers to the Northward and Westward as far as the +Bay of Plenty, which is a great extent of territories for an Indian +Prince. When we were upon the East Coast they always pointed inland to +the Westward for the place of his residence, which I believe to be in the +Bay of Plenty, and that those Hippas or fortified Towns are Barrier Towns +either for or against him; but most likely the former, and if so, may be +the utmost Extent of his Dominions to the Westwards, for at Mercury bay +they did not own him as their Prince, nor no where else either to the +Westward or Southward, or any other single person; for at whatever place +we put in at, or whatever people we spoke with upon the Coast, they +generally told us that those that were at a little distance from them +were their Enemies; from which it appear'd to me that they were very much +divided into Parties, which make war one with another, and all their +Actions and behaviour towards us tended to prove that they are a brave, +open, war-like people, and void of Treachery.</p> + +<p>Whenever we were Visited by any number of them that had never heard or +seen anything of us before they generally came off in the largest Canoe +they had, some of which will carry 60, 80, or 100 people. They always +brought their best Cloaths along with them, which they put on as soon as +they came near the Ship. In each Canoe were generally an old Man, in some +2 or 3; these used always to direct the others, were better Cloathed, and +generally carried a Halbard or Battle Axe in their hands, or some such +like thing that distinguished them from the others. As soon as they came +within about a Stone's throw of the Ship they would there lay, and call +out, "Haromoi harenta a patoo ago!" that is, "Come here, come ashore with +us, and we will kill you with our patoo patoos!" and at the same time +would shake them at us. At times they would dance the War dance, and +other times they would trade with and talk to us, and Answer such +Questions as were put to them with all the Calmness imaginable, and then +again begin the War Dance, shaking their Paddles, Patoo patoos, etc., and +make strange contortions at the same time. As soon as they had worked +themselves up to a proper pitch they would begin to attack us with Stones +and darts, and oblige us, wether we would or no, to fire upon them. +Musquetry they never regarded unless they felt the Effect; but great Guns +they did, because they threw stones farther than they could Comprehend. +After they found that our Arms were so much superior to theirs, and that +we took no advantage of that superiority, and a little time given them to +reflect upon it, they ever after were our very good friends; and we never +had an instance of their attempting to surprize or cut off any of our +people when they were ashore; opportunity for so doing they must have had +at one time or another.</p> + +<p>It is hard to account for what we have every where been told, of their +Eating their Enemies killed in Battle, which they most Certainly do; +Circumstances enough we have seen to Convince us of the Truth of this. +Tupia, who holds this Custom in great aversion, hath very often Argued +with them against it, but they have always as streniously supported it, +and never would own that it was wrong. It is reasonable to suppose that +men with whom this custom is found, seldom, if ever, give Quarter to +those they overcome in battle; and if so, they must fight desperately to +the very last. A strong proof of this supposition we had from the People +of Queen Charlotte's sound, who told us, but a few days before we Arrived +that they had kill'd and Eat a whole boat's crew. Surely a single boat's +crew, or at least a part of them, when they found themselves beset and +overpowered by numbers would have surrender'd themselves prisoners was +such a thing practised among them. The heads of these unfortunate people +they preserved as Trophies; 4 or 5 of them they brought off to shew to +us, one of which Mr. Banks bought, or rather forced them to sell, for +they parted with it with the utmost reluctancy, and afterwards would not +so much as let us see one more for any thing we could offer them.</p> + +<p>In the Article of Food these People have no great Variety; Fern roots, +Dogs, Fish, and wild fowl is their Chief diet, for Cocos, Yams, and Sweet +Potatoes is not Cultivated every where. They dress their Victuals in the +same Manner as the people in the South Sea Islands; that is, dogs and +Large fish they bake in a hole in the ground, and small fish, birds, and +Shell fish, etc., they broil on the fire. Fern roots they likewise heat +over the fire, then beat them out flat upon a stone with a wooden Mallet; +after this they are fit for Eating, in the doing of which they suck out +the Moist and Glutinous part, and Spit out the Fibrous parts. These ferns +are much like, if not the same as, the mountain ferns in England.</p> + +<p>They catch fish with Seans, Hooks and line, but more commonly with hooped +netts very ingeniously made; in the middle of these they tie the bait, +such as Sea Ears, fish Gutts, etc., then sink the Nett to the bottom with +a stone; after it lays there a little time they haul it Gently up, and +hardly ever without fish, and very often a large quantity. All their +netts are made of the broad Grass plant before mentioned; generally with +no other preparation than by Splitting the blade of the plant into +threads. Their fish hooks are made of Crooked pieces of Wood, bones, and +Shells.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-10"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-10.jpg"></p> +<h4>WAR CANOE OF NEW ZEALAND.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>[New Zealand Canoes, Houses, etc.]</p> + +<p>The people shew great ingenuity and good workmanship in the building and +framing their boats or Canoes. They are long and Narrow, and shaped very +much like a New England Whale boat. Their large Canoes are, I believe, +built wholy for war, and will carry from 40 to 80 or 100 Men with their +Arms, etc. I shall give the Dimensions of one which I measured that lay +ashore at Tolago. Length 68 1/2 feet, breadth 5 feet, and Depths 3 1/2, +the bottom sharp, inclining to a wedge, and was made of 3 pieces hollow'd +out to about 2 Inches or an Inch and a half thick, and well fastned +together with strong platting. Each side consisted of one Plank only, +which was 63 feet long and 10 or 12 Inches broad, and about 1 1/4 Inch +thick, and these were well fitted and lashed to the bottom part. There +were a number of Thwarts laid a Cross and Lashed to each Gunwale as a +strengthening to the boat. The head Ornament projected 5 or 6 feet +without the body of the Boat, and was 4 feet high; the Stern Ornament was +14 feet high, about 2 feet broad, and about 1 1/2 inch thick; it was +fixed upon the Stern of the Canoe like the Stern post of a Ship upon her +Keel. The Ornaments of both head and Stern and the 2 side boards were of +Carved Work, and, in my opinion, neither ill design'd nor executed. All +their Canoes are built after this plan, and few are less than 20 feet +long. Some of the small ones we have seen with Outriggers, but this is +not Common. In their War Canoes they generally have a quantity of Birds' +feathers hung in Strings, and tied about the Head and stern as Additional +Ornament. They are as various in the heads of their Canoes as we are in +those of our Shipping; but what is most Common is an odd Design'd Figure +of a man, with as ugly a face as can be conceived, a very large Tongue +sticking out of his Mouth, and Large white Eyes made of the Shells of Sea +Ears. Their paddles are small, light, and neatly made; they hardly ever +make use of sails, at least that we saw, and those they have are but ill +contrived, being generally a piece of netting spread between 2 poles, +which serve for both Masts and Yards.</p> + +<p>The Houses of these People are better calculated for a Cold than a Hot +Climate; they are built low, and in the form of an oblong square. The +framing is of wood or small sticks, and the sides and Covering of thatch +made of long Grass. The door is generally at one end, and no bigger than +to admit of a man to Creep in and out; just within the door is the fire +place, and over the door, or on one side, is a small hole to let out the +Smoke. These houses are 20 or 30 feet long, others not above half as +long; this depends upon the largeness of the Family they are to contain, +for I believe few familys are without such a House as these, altho' they +do not always live in them, especially in the summer season, when many of +them live dispers'd up and down in little Temporary Hutts, that are not +sufficient to shelter them from the weather.</p> + +<p>The Tools which they work with in building their Canoes, Houses, etc., +are adzes or Axes, some made of a hard black stone, and others of green +Talk. They have Chiszels made of the same, but these are more commonly +made of Human Bones. In working small work and carving I believe they use +mostly peices of Jasper, breaking small pieces from a large Lump they +have for that purpose; as soon as the small peice is blunted they throw +it away and take another. To till or turn up the ground they have wooden +spades (if I may so call them), made like stout pickets, with a piece of +wood tied a Cross near the lower end, to put the foot upon to force them +into the Ground. These Green Talk Axes that are whole and good they set +much Value upon, and never would part with them for anything we could +offer.* (* The weapons of greenstone, found in the South Islands, were +much prized. This hard material required years to shape into a mere, or +short club, and these were handed down from father to son as a most +valuable possession.) I offer'd one day for one, One of the best Axes I +had in the Ship, besides a number of Other things, but nothing would +induce the owner to part with it; from this I infer'd that good ones were +scarce among them.</p> + +<p>Diversions and Musical instruments they have but few; the latter Consists +of 2 or 3 sorts of Trumpets and a small Pipe or Whistle, and the former +in singing and Dancing. Their songs are Harmonious enough, but very +doleful to a European ear. In most of their dances they appear like mad +men, Jumping and Stamping with their feet, making strange Contorsions +with every part of the body, and a hideous noise at the same time; and if +they happen to be in their Canoes they flourish with great Agility their +Paddles, Pattoo Pattoos, various ways, in the doing of which, if there +are ever so many boats and People, they all keep time and Motion together +to a surprizing degree. It was in this manner that they work themselves +to a proper Pitch of Courage before they used to attack us; and it was +only from their after behaviour that we could tell whether they were in +jest or in Earnest when they gave these Heivas, as they call them, of +their own accord, especially at our first coming into a place. Their +signs of Friendship is the waving the hand or a piece of Cloth, etc.</p> + +<p>We were never able to learn with any degree of certainty in what manner +they bury their dead; we were generally told that they put them in the +ground; if so it must be in some secret or by place, for we never saw the +least signs of a burying place in the whole Country.* (* The burying +places were kept secret. The body was temporarily buried, and after some +time exhumed; the bones were cleaned, and hidden in some cave or cleft in +the rocks. As bones were used by enemies to make implements, it was a +point to keep these depositories secret, to prevent such desecration.) +Their Custom of mourning for a friend or relation is by cutting and +Scarifying their bodys, particularly their Arms and breasts, in such a +manner that the Scars remain indelible, and, I believe, have some +signification such as to shew how near related the deceased was to them.</p> + +<p>[Maori and Tahiti Words.]</p> + +<p>With respect to religion, I believe these people trouble themselves very +little about it; they, however, believe that there is one Supream God, +whom they call Tawney,* (* Probably Tane-mahuta, the creator of animal +and vegetable life. The Maori does not pray.) and likewise a number of +other inferior deities; but whether or no they worship or Pray to either +one or the other we know not with any degree of certainty. It is +reasonable to suppose that they do, and I believe it; yet I never saw the +least Action or thing among them that tended to prove it. They have the +same Notions of the Creation of the World, Mankind, etc., as the people +of the South Sea Islands have; indeed, many of their notions and Customs +are the very same. But nothing is so great a proof of their all having +had one Source as their Language, which differ but in a very few words +the one from the other, as will appear from the following specimens, +which I had from Mr. Banks, who understands their Language as well, or +better than, any one on board.</p> + +<img alt="" src="images/cook-11.jpg"> + +<p>[Speculations on a Southern Continent.]</p> + +<p>There are some small differance in the Language spoke by the +Aeheinomoweans and those of Tovy Poenammu; but this differance seem'd to +me to be only in the pronunciation, and is no more than what we find +between one part of England and another. What is here inserted as a +Specimen is that spoke by the People of Aeheinomouwe. What is meant by +the South Sea Islands are those Islands we ourselves Touched at; but I +gave it that title because we have always been told that the same +Language is universally spoke by all the Islanders, and that this is a +Sufficient proof that both they and the New Zelanders have had one Origin +or Source, but where this is even time perhaps may never discover.</p> + +<p>It certainly is neither to the Southward nor Eastward, for I cannot +perswaide myself that ever they came from America; and as to a Southern +Continent, I do not believe any such thing exist, unless in a high +Latitude. But as the Contrary opinion hath for many Years prevail'd, and +may yet prevail, it is necessary I should say something in support of +mine more than what will be directly pointed out by the Track of this +Ship in those Seas; for from that alone it will evidently appear that +there is a large space extending quite to the Tropick in which we were +not, or any other before us that we can ever learn for certain. In our +route to the Northward, after doubling Cape Horn, when in the Latitude of +40 degrees, we were in the Longitude of 110 degrees; and in our return to +the Southward, after leaving Ulietea, when in the same Latitude, we were +in the Longitude of 145 degrees; the differance in this Latitude is 35 +degrees of Longitude. In the Latitude of 30 degrees the differance of the +2 Tracks is 21 degrees, and that differance continues as low as 20 +degrees; but a view of the Chart will best illustrate this.</p> + +<p>Here is now room enough for the North Cape of the Southern Continent to +extend to the Northward, even to a pretty low Latitude. But what +foundation have we for such a supposition? None, that I know of, but +this, that it must either be here or no where. Geographers have indeed +laid down part of Quiros' discoveries in this Longitude, and have told us +that he had these signs of a Continent, a part of which they have +Actually laid down in the Maps; but by what Authority I know not. Quiros, +in the Latitude of 25 or 26 degrees South, discover'd 2 Islands, which, I +suppose, may lay between the Longitude of 130 and 140 degrees West. +Dalrymple lays them down in 146 degrees West, and says that Quiros saw to +the Southward very large hanging Clouds and a very thick Horizon, with +other known signs of a Continent. Other accounts of their Voyage says not +a word about this; but supposing this to be true, hanging Clouds and a +thick Horizon are certainly no signs of a Continent--I have had many +proofs to the Contrary in the Course of this Voyage; neither do I believe +that Quiros looked upon such things as known signs of land, for if he had +he certainly would have stood to the Southward, in order to have +satisfied himself before he had gone to the Northward, for no man seems +to have had discoveries more at heart than he had. Besides this, this was +the ultimate object of his Voyage.* (* It is conjectured that what Quiros +saw was Tahiti, but his track on this voyage is very vague. There are +certainly no islands in the latitude given except Pitcairn.) If Quiros +was in the Latitude of 26 degrees and Longitude 146 degrees West, then I +am certain that no part of the Southern Continent can no where extend so +far to the Northward as the above mentioned Latitude. But the Voyage +which seems to thrust it farthest back in the Longitude I am speaking of, +viz., between 130 and 150 degrees West, is that of Admiral Roggeween, a +Dutchman, made in 1722, who, after leaving Juan Fernandes, went in search +of Davis's Island; but not finding it, he ran 12 degrees more to the +West, and in the Latitude of 28 1/2 degrees discover'd Easter Island. +Dalrymple and some others have laid it down in 27 degrees South and 106 +degrees 30 minutes West, and supposes it to be the same as Davis's Isle, +which I think cannot be from the Circumstance of the Voyage; on the other +hand Mr. Pingre, in his Treatise concerning the Transit of Venus, gives +an extract of Roggeween's Voyage and a map of the South Seas, wherein he +places Easter Island in the Latitude of 28 1/2 degrees South, and in the +Longitude of 123 degrees West* (* Easter Island is in longitude 110 +degrees West, and is considered identical with Davis' Island.) his reason +for so doing may be seen at large in the said Treatise. He likewise lays +down Roggeween's rout through those South Seas very different from any +other Author I have seen; for after leaving Easter Island he makes him to +steer South-West to the height of 34 degrees South, and afterwards +West-North-West. If Roggeween really took this rout, then it is not +probable that there is any Main land to the Northward of 35 degrees +South. However, Mr. Dalrymple and some Geographers have laid down +Roggeween's track very different from Mr. Pingre. From Easter Isle they +have laid down his Track to the North-West, and afterwards very little +different from that of La Maire; and this I think is not probable, that a +man who, at his own request, was sent to discover the Southern Continent +should take the same rout thro' these Seas as others had done before who +had the same thing in View; by so doing he must be Morally certain of not +finding what he was in search of, and of course must fail as they had +done. Be this as it may, it is a point that cannot be clear'd up from the +published accounts of the Voyage, which, so far from taking proper notice +of their Longitude, have not even mentioned the Latitude of several of +the Islands they discover'd, so that I find it impossible to lay down +Roggeween's rout with the least degree of accuracy.* (* Roggeween's track +is still unknown.)</p> + +<p>But to return to our own Voyage, which must be allowed to have set aside +the most, if not all, the Arguments and proofs that have been advanced by +different Authors to prove that there must be a Southern Continent; I +mean to the Northward of 40 degrees South, for what may lie to the +Southward of that Latitude I know not. Certain it is that we saw no +Visible signs of Land, according to my Opinion, neither in our rout to +the Northward, Southward, or Westward, until a few days before we made +the Coast of New Zeland. It is true we have often seen large flocks of +Birds, but they were generally such as are always seen at a very great +distance from land; we likewise saw frequently peices of Sea or Rock +Weed, but how is one to know how far this may drive to Sea. I am told, +and that from undoubted Authority, that there is Yearly thrown up upon +the Coast of Ireland and Scotland a sort of Beans called Oxe Eyes, which +are known to grow no where but in the West Indies; and yet these 2 places +are not less than 1200 Leagues asunder. Was such things found floating +upon the Water in the South Seas one would hardly be perswaided that one +was even out of sight of Land, so apt are we to Catch at everything that +may at least point out to us the favourite Object we are in persuit of; +and yet experiance shews that we may be as far from it as ever.</p> + +<p>Thus I have given my Opinion freely and without prejudice, not with any +View to discourage any future attempts being made towards discovering the +Southern Continent; on the Contrary, as I think this Voyage will +evidently make it appear that there is left but a small space to the +Northward of 40 degrees where the grand object can lay. I think it would +be a great pity that this thing, which at times has been the Object of +many Ages and Nations, should not now be wholy be clear'd up; which might +very Easily be done in one Voyage without either much trouble or danger +or fear of Miscarrying, as the Navigator would know where to go to look +for it; but if, after all, no Continent was to be found, then he might +turn his thoughts towards the discovery of those Multitude of Islands +which, we are told, lay within the Tropical regions to the South of the +Line, and this we have from very good Authority, as I have before hinted. +This he will always have in his power; for, unless he be directed to +search for the Southern lands in a high Latitude, he will not, as we +were, be obliged to go farther to the Westward in the Latitude of 40 +degrees than 140 or 145 degrees West, and therefore will always have it +in his power to go to George's Island, where he will be sure of meeting +with refreshments to recruit his people before he sets out upon the +discovery of the Islands.* (* Cook carried out this programme in his +second voyage, when he set at rest for ever the speculation regarding the +Southern Continent.) But should it be thought proper to send a Ship out +upon this Service while Tupia lives, and he to come out in her, in that +case she would have a prodidgious Advantage over every ship that hath +been upon discoveries in those Seas before; for by means of Tupia, +supposing he did not accompany you himself, you would always get people +to direct you from Island to Island, and would be sure of meeting with a +friendly reception and refreshment at every Island you came to. This +would enable the Navigator to make his discoveries the more perfect and +Compleat; at least it would give him time so to do, for he would not be +Obliged to hurry through those Seas thro' any apprehentions of wanting +Provisions.</p> + +<p>[Tupia's List of Islands.]</p> + +<p>I shall now add a list of those Islands which Tupia and Several others +have given us an account of, and Endeavour to point out the respective +Situations from Otaheite, or George's Island; but this, with respect to +many of them, cannot be depended upon. Those marked thus (*) Tupia +himself has been at, and we have no reason to doubt his Veracity in this, +by which it will appear that his Geographical knowledge of those Seas is +pretty Extensive; and yet I must observe that before he came with us he +hardly had an Idea of any land being larger than Otaheite.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-12a"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-12a.jpg"></p> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-12b"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-12b.jpg"></p> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>The above list* was taken from a Chart of the Islands drawn by Tupia's +own hands. (* This list is hopeless. With the exception of the Society +Group (Huiheine, and the names that follow), Imao (Eimeo), Tapooamanuo, +Tethuroa, and Ohiteroa, all lying near Tahiti, none can be recognised. +Those north and east are no doubt names of the Paumotu Group, low coral +islands, disposed in rings round lagoons, whose innumerable names are +very little known to this day, and very probably the Tahitians had their +own names for them.) He at one time gave us an account of near 130 +Islands, but in his Chart he laid down only 74; and this is about the +number that some others of the Natives of Otaheite gave us an account of; +but the account taken by and from different people differ sencibly one +from another both in names and numbers. The first is owing to the want of +rightly knowing how to pronounce the names of the Islands after them; but +be this as it may, it is very certain that there are these number of +Islands, and very Probably a great many more, laying some where in the +Great South Sea, the greatest part of which have never been seen by any +European.</p> + +<p>[Historical Notes on New Zealand.]</p> + +<p>NOTES ON NEW ZEALAND.</p> + +<p>As already stated by Cook in the Journal, New Zealand was first +discovered by Abel Tasman, a Dutch navigator, in the year 1642. Sailing +from Tasmania, he sighted the northern part of the Middle island, and +anchored a little east of Cape Farewell in Massacre (Golden) Bay, so +called by him because the Maoris cut off one of his boats, and killed +three of the crew.</p> + +<p>Tasman never landed anywhere, but coasted from Massacre Bay along the +western side of the North Island to the north point. He passed outside +the Three Kings, and thence away into the Pacific, to discover the +Friendly Group.</p> + +<p>No European eye again sighted New Zealand until Cook circumnavigated and +mapped the islands.</p> + +<p>The warlike character of the natives is well shown in this Journal. On +nearly every occasion they either made, or attempted to make, an attack, +even on the ships, and in self-defence firearms had constantly to be +used. Nevertheless, Cook's judgment enabled him to inaugurate friendly +relations in most places where he stopped long enough to enable the +natives to become acquainted with the strangers.</p> + +<p>It was not so with other voyagers. De Surville, a Frenchman, who called +at Doubtless Bay very shortly after Cook left it, destroyed a village, +and carried off a chief. Marion de Fresne was, in 1772, in the Bay of +Islands, killed by the natives, with sixteen of his people, and eaten, +for violation of some of their customs, and illtreatment of some +individuals.</p> + +<p>Other outrages followed, committed on both sides, and it is no wonder +that, though Cook represented the advantages of the island for +colonization, it was not considered a desirable place in which to settle. +The cannibalism of the Maoris especially made people shy of the country.</p> + +<p>Intermittent communication took place between New Zealand and the new +Colony of New South Wales, and at last, in 1814, Samuel Marsden, a +clergyman of the Church of England, who had seen Maoris in New South +Wales, landed in the Bay of Islands with other missionaries. This +fearless and noble-minded man obtained the confidence of the Maoris, and +a commencement of colonization was made.</p> + +<p>It was not, however, until 1840 that the New Zealand Company was formed +to definitely colonize. They made their station at Wellington.</p> + +<p>In the same year Captain Hobson, R.N., was sent as Lieutenant-Governor. +Landing first at the Bay of Islands, he transferred his headquarters to +the Hauraki Gulf in September 1840, where he founded Auckland, which +remained the capital until 1876, when the seat of Government was +transferred to Wellington.</p> + +<p>The North Island, in which all these occurrences took place, contained by +far the greater number of the natives, and it seems strange now that the +first efforts to settle were not made in the Middle Island, which has +proved equally suitable for Europeans, and where the difficulties of +settlement, from the existence of a less numerous native population, were +not so great. It is not necessary here to follow the complicated history +of New Zealand in later years, which unfortunately comprises several +bloody wars with the Maoris.</p> + +<p>The present prosperous condition of this great colony is well known, but +it has not been effected without the rapid diminution of the natives, who +have met with the fate of most aborigines in contact with Europeans, +especially when the former were naturally bold and warlike.</p> + +<p>The Maoris have retained the tradition of the original arrival of their +race in a fleet of canoes from a country called Hawaiki, which is by some +supposed to be Hawaii in the Sandwich Group. As we have seen, the +language was practically the same as that of Tahiti, and there is no +doubt that they came from some of the Polynesian islands. The date of the +immigration is supposed to be the fifteenth century.</p> + +<p>Each canoe's crew settled in different parts of the North Island, and +were the founders of the different great tribes into which the New +Zealanders were divided. The more celebrated canoes were the Arawa, +Tainui, Aotea, Kuruhaupo, Takitumu, and others.</p> + +<p>The Arawa claimed the first landing, and the principal idols came in her. +One of these is now in the possession of Sir George Grey. A large tribe +on the east coast still bears the name of Arawa, and her name, that of +the Tainui, and other of the canoes, are now borne by some of the great +steamships that run to New Zealand.</p> + +<p>Cook, in the voyage with which we have to deal, completely examined the +whole group. His pertinacity and determination to follow the whole coast +is a fine instance of his thoroughness in exploration. No weather nor +delay daunted him, and the accuracy with which he depicted the main +features of the outline of the islands is far beyond any of the similar +work of other voyagers. It is true that he missed in the south island +many of the fine harbours that have played such an important part in the +prosperity of the Colony; but when we consider the narrowness of their +entrances, and the enormous extent of the coast line which he laid down +in such a short time, this is not astonishing.</p> + +<p>His observations on the natives and on the country display great +acuteness of observation, and had the settlers displayed the same spirit +of fair treatment and respect for the customs of the natives, much of the +bloody warfare that has stained the annals of the Colony might have been +averted; though it is scarcely possible that with such a high-spirited +race the occupation of the islands, especially the North island, where +the majority of the Maoris were, could have taken place without some +disturbances.</p> + +<p>New Zealand now contains 630,000 Europeans, and 41,000 Maoris. Its +exports are valued at 10,000,000 pounds, and the imports at 6,250,000 +pounds. There are 2000 miles of railways open. Such is the result of +fifty years of colonization in a fertile and rich island, the climate of +which may be described as that of a genial England.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch7"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 7. PASSAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO NEW HOLLAND.</h2> + +<p>[April 1770. From New Zealand to Australia.]</p> + +<p>SUNDAY, 1st April. In the P.M. had a moderate breeze at East, which in +the Night Veer'd to the North-East, and was attended with hazey, rainy +weather. I have before made mention of our quitting New Zeland with an +intention to steer to the Westward, which we accordingly did, taking our +departure from Cape Farewell in the Latitude of 40 degrees 30 minutes +South and Longitude 185 degrees 58 minutes West from Greenwich, which +bore from us at 5 p.m. West 18 degrees North, distance 12 Miles. After +this we steer'd North-West and West-North-West, in order to give it a +good berth, until 8 o'Clock a.m., at which time we steered West, having +the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North by East. At Noon our Latitude by +account was 40 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape +Farewell 1 degree 11 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 2nd. In the P.M. had a moderate Gale at North, with thick hazey +weather, attended with rain. At 8 it fell little wind, and Veer'd to +West-South-West, at which time we Tack'd. At Midnight the wind came to +South-South-West, and increased to a brisk gale with fair Cloudy weather, +which we made the most of as soon as it was daylight. At Noon our +Latitude, by Observation, was 40 degrees 0 minutes, and Longitude made +from Cape Farewell 2 degrees 31 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 3rd. Cloudy weather; Winds at South-West and South-South-West, a +fresh Gale, with which we made our Course good North-West by West, and +distance run from Yesterday at Noon to this day at Noon 38 1/2 Leagues. +Latitude, by observation, 38 degrees 56 minutes South; Longitude made +from Cape Farewell 4 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 4th. Had a steady brisk Gale at South-South-West with some +flying showers of rain and large hollow Sea from the Southward. In the +P.M. unbent the Maintopsail to repair, and brought another to the Yard +and set it close reefed. At Noon our Latitude, by Observation, was 37 +degrees 56 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterday at Noon +North 60 degrees West, 122 Miles; Longitude made from Cape Farewell 6 +degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 5th. Fresh Gales at South, which in the A.M. veer'd to +South-East by South. At Noon our Latitude, by observation, was 37 degrees +23 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 9 degrees 10 minutes +West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees +15 minutes West, 37 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 6th. Winds between the South by East and South-East, with a +Continued swell from the South-South-West. At Noon our Latitude in per +Observation 37 degrees 18 minutes South; Course and distance sail'd since +Yesterday at Noon North 85 degrees West, 58 Miles. Longitude made from +Cape Farewell 10 degrees 35 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 7th. Gentle breezes at North-East, which in the A.M. Veer'd to +North-West. In the P.M. found the Variation by the Mean of several +Azimuths to be 13 degrees 50 minutes East, being then in the Latitude of +37 degrees 23 minutes South, and Longitude 196 degrees 44 minutes West. +In the A.M. Punished Jno. Bowles, Marine, with 12 lashes for refusing to +do his duty when order'd by the Boatswain's Mate and Serjeant of Marines. +At Noon Latitude per Observation 37 degrees 35 minutes South, Longitude +made from Cape Farewell 11 degrees 34 minutes West; Course and distance +run since Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 50 Miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes from the North-West and North. In the P.M. +found the Variation to be 13 degrees 56 minutes East. At Noon Latitude in +per Observation 38 degrees 0 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape +Farewell 13 degrees 2 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since +Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 74 Miles.</p> + +<p>Monday, 9th. Gentle breezes at North-West; pleasant weather and a Smooth +Sea. In the A.M. saw a Tropic Bird, which, I believe, is uncommon in such +high Latitudes. At Noon Latitude observ'd 38 degrees 29 minutes South, +Longitude made from Cape Farewell 14 degrees 45 minutes West; Course and +distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 86 +Miles.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 10th. Gentle breezes at North-West by North, and clear settled +weather. In the A.M. found the Variation, by the Amplitude, to be 11 +degrees 25 minutes East, and by Azimuth 11 degrees 20 minutes. At Noon +the observed Latitude was 38 degrees 51 minutes South, and Longitude made +from Cape Farewell 16 degrees 45 minutes; Longitude in 202 degrees 43 +minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 76 +degrees 45 minutes West, 96 Miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 11th. Gentle breezes from the North-West, and pleasant +weather, with some few showers of rain. In the A.M. found the Variation +to be 13 degrees 48 minutes East, which is 2 1/2 degrees more than it was +yesterday, altho' I should have expected to have found it less, for the +observations were equally good. At Noon Latitude in 39 degrees 7 minutes +South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 17 degrees 23 minutes; and +Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 62 degrees West, 34 +Miles.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 12th. Calm, with now and then light Airs from the North-East +and North-West; cloudy weather, but remarkably warm, and so it hath been +for some days past. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 39 degrees 11 +minutes, and Longitude from Cape Farewell 17 degrees 35 minutes West; +Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 66 degrees West, 10 +Miles.</p> + +<p>Friday, 13th. Light Airs next to a Calm, with Clear pleasant weather; +what little wind we had was from the North-West quarter. In the Course of +this day found the Variation to be 12 degrees 27 minutes East, being at +Noon, by observation, in the Latitude of 39 degrees 23 minutes South, and +Longitude 204 degrees 2 minutes West; Course and distance since Yesterday +noon South 62 degrees West, 26 Miles, and Longitude made from Cape +Farewell 18 degrees 4 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 14th. Calm serene weather, with sometimes light Airs from the +Northward. At sun set found the Variation to be 11 degrees 28 minutes +East, and in the Morning to be 11 degrees 30 minutes East. The Spritsail +Topsail being wore to rags, it was condemn'd as not fit for its proper +use, and Converted to repair the 2 Top Gallant Sails, they being of +themselves so bad as not to be worth the Expence of new Canvas, but with +the help of this sail may be made to last some time longer. At Noon +Latitude in 39 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape +Farewell 18 degrees 21 minutes West; Course and distance since Yesterday +noon South 18 degrees West, 13 Miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 15th. In the P.M. had light Airs at North, which in the A.M. +increased to a fresh Gale, with which we made the best of our way to the +Westward, and by noon had run since yesterday upon a South 86 degrees 15 +minutes West Course, 79 Miles. Latitude in, by Observation, 39 degrees 30 +minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 20 degrees 2 minutes +West. Some flying fish seen this day.</p> + +<p>Monday, 16th. Fresh Gales at North-North-West, with Cloudy, hazey +weather. In the P.M. saw an Egg Bird, and yesterday a Gannet was seen; +these are Birds that we reckon never to go far from land. We kept the +lead going all night, but found no soundings with 100 and 130 fathoms +line. At noon we were in the Latitude of 39 degrees 40 minutes South, and +had made 22 degrees 2 minutes of Longitude from Cape Farewell; course and +distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon South 82 degrees West, 108 Miles.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 17th. At 2 p.m. the wind came to West-South-West, at which time +we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. Before 5 o'Clock we were obliged +to close reef our Topsails, having a Strong gale, with very heavy +squalls; about this time a Small land bird was seen to pearch upon the +rigging. We sounded, but had no ground with 120 fathoms of line. At 8 +o'Clock we wore and stood to the Southward until 12 at Night, then wore +and stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., when we again stood to the +Southward, having a fresh Gale at West-South-West, attended with Squalls +and dark hazey unsettled weather until 9; at which time it fell little +wind, and the weather soon after Clear'd up, which, a little after 11, +gave us an Opportunity of taking several observations of the Sun and +Moon, the Mean result of which gave 207 degrees 56 minutes West Longitude +from the Meridian of Greenwich. From these observations the Longitude of +the Ship at Noon was 207 degrees 58 minutes, and by the Log 208 degrees +20 minutes, the difference being only 22 minutes; and this Error may as +well be in the one as the other. Our Latitude at Noon was 39 degrees 36 +minutes South, the Longitude made from Cape Farewell 22 degrees 22 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 18th. Winds Southerly, a hard gale, with heavy squalls, +attended with Showers of rain and a great Sea from the same Quarter. At 3 +p.m. Close reeft the Topsails, handed the Main and Mizen Topsail, and got +down Top Gallant Yards. At 6 the Gale increased to such a height as to +oblige us to take in the Foretopsail and Mainsail, and to run under the +Foresail and Mizen all night; Sounding every 2 hours, but found no ground +with 120 fathoms. At 6 a.m. set the Mainsail, and soon after the +Foretopsail, and before Noon the Maintopsail, both close reeft. At Noon +our Latitude by observation was 38 degrees 45 minutes South, Longitude +from Cape Farewell 23 degrees 43 minutes West; and Course and distance +run since Yesterday noon North 51 degrees West, 82 Miles. Last night we +saw a Port Egmont Hen, and this morning 2 More, a Pintado bird, several +Albetrosses, and black sheer Waters. The first of these birds are Certain +signs of the nearness of land; indeed we cannot be far from it. By our +Longitude we are a degree to the Westward of the East side of Van +Diemen's Land, according to Tasman, the first discoverer's, Longitude of +it, who could not err much in so short a run as from this land to New +Zeland; and by our Latitude we could not be above 50 or 55 Leagues to the +Northward of the place where he took his departure from.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch8"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.</h2> + +<p>[April 1770.]</p> + +<p>THURSDAY, 19th. In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and +Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the +Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with +130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the Topsails close reef'd, and 6, saw +land* (* The south-east coast of Australia. See chart.) extending from +North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine +sandy bottom. We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at +South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross, +made all sail, and bore away along shore North-East for the Eastermost +land we had in sight, being at this time in the Latitude of 37 degrees 58 +minutes South, and Longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes West. The +Southermost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us West 1/4 +South, I judged to lay in the Latitude of 38 degrees 0 minutes South and +in the Longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes West from the Meridian of +Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the +first who discover'd this Land. To the Southward of this point we could +see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude +compared with that of Tasman's, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to +have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after +the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it, +and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more +to the Westward, makes me Doubtfull whether they are one land or no.* (* +Had not the gale on the day before forced Cook to run to the northward, +he would have made the north end of the Furneaux Group, and probably have +discovered Bass Strait, which would have cleared up the doubt, which he +evidently felt, as to whether Tasmania was an island or not. The fact was +not positively known until Dr. Bass sailed through the Strait in a +whale-boat in 1797. Point Hicks was merely a rise in the coast-line, +where it dipped below the horizon to the westward, and the name of Point +Hicks Hill is now borne by an elevation that seems to agree with the +position.) However, every one who compares this Journal with that of +Tasman's will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe +that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen's from the Printed Charts, +but from the extract of Tasman's Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse. +At Noon we were in the Latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and Longitude of +210 degrees 29 minutes West. The extreams of the Land extending from +North-West to East-North-East, a remarkable point, bore North 20 degrees +East, distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much +like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it +by the same name; Latitude 37 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 210 degrees +22 minutes West. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8 +degrees 7 minutes East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears +rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and Woody, +but the Sea shore is all a white Sand.</p> + +<p>Friday, 20th. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh Gale +Westerly, with Squalls, attended with Showers of rain. In the A.M. had +the Wind at South-West, with Severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 Water Spouts +at once; 2 were between us and the Shore, and one at some distance upon +our Larboard Quarter. At 6, shortned sail, and brought too for the Night, +having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The Northermost land in sight bore +North by East 1/2 East, and a small Island* (* Gabo Island.) lying close +to a point on the Main bore West, distant 2 Leagues. This point I have +named Cape Howe* (* Cape Howe, called after Admiral Earl Howe, is the +south-east point of Australia. The position is almost exact.); it may be +known by the Trending of the Coast, which is North on the one Side and +South-West on the other. Latitude 37 degrees 28 minutes South; Longitude +210 degrees 3 minutes West. It may likewise be known by some round hills +upon the main just within it. Having brought too with her head off Shore, +we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made +sail along shore to the Northward. At 6, the Northermost land in sight +bore North, being at this time about 4 Leagues from the Land. At Noon we +were in the Latitude of 36 degrees 51 minutes South and Longitude of 209 +degrees 53 minutes West, and 3 Leagues from the land. Course sail'd along +shore since Yesterday at Noon was first North 52 degrees East, 30 miles, +then North by East and North by West, 41 Miles. The weather being clear +gave us an opportunity to View the Country, which had a very agreeable +and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and +Valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was +covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they +are not high, neither are there many of them.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Dromedary, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 21st. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and Clear weather, with +which we coasted along shore to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the +smoke of fire in several places; a Certain sign that the Country is +inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, we shortned +Sail, and Sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an +easey sail until 12 o'Clock, at which time we brought too until 4 A.M., +when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 Leagues from the land. At 6, +we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the Shore, which, +on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary (Latitude 36 degrees 18 +minutes South, Longitude 209 degrees 55 minutes West). The shore under +the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape +Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the +Variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes East. Between 10 and 11 o'Clock Mr. +Green and I took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean +result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes West Longitude from the +Meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the +Longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49 +minutes the Longitude of the Ship to-day at noon per yesterday's +observation, the Mean of which and to-day's give 209 degrees 33 minutes +West, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast. Our Latitude at Noon +was 35 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Dromedary bore South 30 degrees +West, distant 12 Leagues. An Open Bay* (* Bateman Bay.) wherein lay 3 or +4 Small Islands, bore North-West by West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. This +Bay seem'd to be but very little Shelter'd from the Sea Winds, and yet it +is the only likely Anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South by West with which +we steer'd along shore North by East and North-North-East at the distance +of about 3 Leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea +beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its +perpendicular Clifts, I call'd Point Upright; Latitude 35 degrees 35 +minutes South; it bore from us due West, distant 2 Leagues, and in this +Situation had 31 fathoms, Sandy bottom. At 6, falling little wind, we +hauld off East-North-East; at this time the Northermost land in sight +bore North by East 1/2 East, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we +brought too until 4 A.M., at which time we made sail in for the land, and +at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same Place we were at 5 o'Clock +in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3 +Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night. After this we +steer'd along shore North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at +South-West, and were so near the Shore as to distinguish several people +upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black Colour; +but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the Cloathes they +might have on I know not. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude +of 35 degrees 27 minutes and Longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape +Dromedary bore South 28 degrees West, distance 15 Leagues. A remarkable +peak'd hill laying inland, the Top of which looked like a Pigeon house, +and occasioned my giving it that name, bore North 32 degrees 33 minutes +West, and a small low Island, laying close under the Shore, bore +North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues; Variation of the Compass 9 degrees +50 minutes East. When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I +was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found Shelter for +the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think +that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I +should have attempted had not the wind come on Shore, after which I did +not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow +Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where +very high upon the Shore; and this we have had ever since we came upon +the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate +height, forming alternately rocky points and Sandy beaches; but inland, +between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high +Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with Trees, and +these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a Top, +with Steep rocky clifts all round them. As far as we could see the Trees +in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty. For +these 2 days past the observed Latitude hath been 12 or 14 Miles to the +Southward of the Ship's account given by the Log, which can be owing to +nothing but a Current set to the Southward.</p> + +<p>Monday, 23rd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at East, which in the night +veer'd to North-East and North. At 1/2 past 4 P.M., being about 5 Miles +from the Land, we Tack'd and stood off South-East and East until 4 A.M., +at which time we Tack'd and stood in, being then about 9 or 10 Leagues +from the land. At 8, it fell little wind, and soon after Calm. At Noon we +were by Observation in the Latitude of 35 degrees 38 minutes and about 6 +Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing South 37 degrees West, +distant 17 Leagues, and the Pidgeon house North 40 degrees West; in this +situation had 74 fathoms.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 24th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs and Calms until 6 +o'Clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at North by West; at this time +we had 70 fathoms Water, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the +Pidgeon house bearing North 40 degrees West, Mount Dromedary South 30 +degrees West, and the Northermost land in sight North 19 degrees East. +Stood to the North-East until Noon, having a Gentle breeze at North-West, +at which time we Tack'd and stood to the Westward, being then, by +observation, in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude +208 degrees 51 minutes West. A point of land which I named Cape St. +George, we having discovered it on that Saint's day, bore West, distant +19 Miles, and the Pidgeon house South 7 degrees West, the Latitude and +Longitude of which I found to be 35 degrees 19 minutes South and 209 +degrees 42 minutes West. In the morning we found the Variation to be, by +the Amplitude, 7 degrees 50 minutes East, by several Azimuths 7 degrees +54 minutes East.</p> + +<p>[Off Jervis Bay, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 25th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3 +o'Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack'd and stood to the +Northward. At 5 o'Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the +Pidgeon house bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had +86 fathoms. At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef'd the +Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail +again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at +South-West. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the +Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes +West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon is North by East 49 +Miles. In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in +several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of +Cape St. George the Shore seems to form a bay,* (* Jervis Bay, a very +fine port, but little use has been made of it up to the present time.) +which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had +the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was +not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The +North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose. +Latitude 45 degrees 4 minutes South, 8 Leagues to the Northward of this, +is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it +appeared of that Colour (Latitude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude +208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of +this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a +Hatt.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 26th. Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at +North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about +3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8 +degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by +North to South-West by South. Saw several smokes along shore before dark, +and 2 or 3 times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm'd, driving in before +the Sea, until one o'Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the +land, with which we steer'd North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water. +At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer'd to North-East by North, we being +then in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees +27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from +South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Latitude are some White +Clifts, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.</p> + +<p>Friday, 27th. Var'ble light Airs between the North-East and North-West, +clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off Shore until 2, then Tackt +and Stood in till 6, at which time we tack'd and stood off, being then in +54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the Extreams of which +bore from South, 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East. At +12 we tack'd and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a Trip off until day +light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost +ground, owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at Noon +we were by Observation in the Latitude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South, +Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. In this +Situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, which extended from +South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 28th. In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to +attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in the Water so fast that she was +obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw +several people a shore, 4 of whom where carrying a small Boat or Canoe, +which we imagin'd they were going to put in to the Water in order to Come +off to us; but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above 2 Miles from +the Shore Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl, +and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw 4 or 5 of the Natives, +who took to the Woods as we approached the Shore; which disappointed us +in the expectation we had of getting a near View of them, if not to speak +to them. But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we no +where could effect a landing by reason of the great Surf which beat +everywhere upon the shore. We saw haul'd up upon the beach 3 or 4 small +Canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the Small ones of New +Zeland. In the wood were several Trees of the Palm kind, and no under +wood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which +we return'd to the Ship about 5 in the evening.* (* The place where Cook +attempted to land is near Bulli, a place where there is now considerable +export of coal. A large coal port, Wollongong, lies a little to the +southward.) At this time it fell Calm, and we were not above a Mile and a +half from the Shore, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to +the Southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the Land, +which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the Northward. +At daylight in the morning we discover'd a Bay,* (* Botany Bay.) which +appeared to be tollerably well shelter'd from all winds, into which I +resolved to go with the Ship, and with this View sent the Master in the +Pinnace to sound the Entrance, while we keept turning up with the Ship, +having the wind right out. At noon the Entrance bore North-North-West, +distance 1 Mile.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor, Botany Bay, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 29th. In the P.M. wind Southerly and Clear weather, with which we +stood into the bay and Anchored under the South shore about 2 miles +within the Entrance in 5 fathoms, the South point bearing South-East and +the North point East. Saw, as we came in, on both points of the bay, +several of the Natives and a few hutts; Men, Women, and Children on the +South Shore abreast of the Ship, to which place I went in the Boats in +hopes of speaking with them, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and +Tupia. As we approached the Shore they all made off, except 2 Men, who +seem'd resolved to oppose our landing. As soon as I saw this I order'd +the boats to lay upon their Oars, in order to speak to them; but this was +to little purpose, for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word +they said. We then threw them some nails, beads, etc., a shore, which +they took up, and seem'd not ill pleased with, in so much that I thought +that they beckon'd to us to come ashore; but in this we were mistaken, +for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us, upon +which I fir'd a musquet between the 2, which had no other Effect than to +make them retire back, where bundles of their darts lay, and one of them +took up a stone and threw at us, which caused my firing a Second Musquet, +load with small Shott; and altho' some of the shott struck the man, yet +it had no other effect than making him lay hold on a Target. Immediately +after this we landed, which we had no sooner done than they throw'd 2 +darts at us; this obliged me to fire a third shott, soon after which they +both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one; +but Mr. Banks being of Opinion that the darts were poisoned, made me +cautious how I advanced into the Woods. We found here a few small hutts +made of the Bark of Trees, in one of which were 4 or 5 Small Children, +with whom we left some strings of beads, etc. A quantity of Darts lay +about the Hutts; these we took away with us. 3 Canoes lay upon the beach, +the worst I think I ever saw; they were about 12 or 14 feet long, made of +one piece of the Bark of a Tree, drawn or tied up at each end, and the +middle keept open by means of pieces of Stick by way of Thwarts. After +searching for fresh water without success, except a little in a Small +hole dug in the Sand, we embarqued, and went over to the North point of +the bay, where in coming in we saw several people; but when we landed now +there were nobody to be seen. We found here some fresh Water, which came +trinkling down and stood in pools among the rocks; but as this was +troublesome to come at I sent a party of men ashore in the morning to the +place where we first landed to dig holes in the sand, by which means and +a Small stream they found fresh Water sufficient to Water the Ship. The +String of Beads, etc., we had left with the Children last night were +found laying in the Hutts this morning; probably the Natives were afraid +to take them away. After breakfast we sent some Empty Casks a shore and a +party of Men to cut wood, and I went myself in the Pinnace to sound and +explore the Bay, in the doing of which I saw some of the Natives; but +they all fled at my Approach. I landed in 2 places, one of which the +people had but just left, as there were small fires and fresh Muscles +broiling upon them; here likewise lay Vast heaps of the largest Oyster +Shells I ever saw.</p> + +<p>Monday, 30th. As Soon as the Wooders and Waterers were come on board to +Dinner 10 or 12 of the Natives came to the watering place, and took away +their Canoes that lay there, but did not offer to touch any one of our +Casks that had been left ashore; and in the afternoon 16 or 18 of them +came boldly up to within 100 yards of our people at the watering place, +and there made a stand. Mr. Hicks, who was the Officer ashore, did all in +his power to intice them to him by offering them presents; but it was to +no purpose, all they seem'd to want was for us to be gone. After staying +a Short time they went away. They were all Arm'd with Darts and wooden +Swords; the darts have each 4 prongs, and pointed with fish bones. Those +we have seen seem to be intended more for striking fish than offensive +Weapons; neither are they poisoned, as we at first thought. After I had +return'd from sounding the Bay I went over to a Cove on the North side of +the Bay, where, in 3 or 4 Hauls with the Sean, we caught about 300 pounds +weight of Fish, which I caused to be equally divided among the Ship's +Company. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to sound and explore the North +side of the bay, where I neither met with inhabitants or anything +remarkable. Mr. Green took the Sun's Meridian Altitude a little within +the South Entrance of the Bay, which gave the Latitude 34 degrees 0 +minutes South.</p> + +<p>[May 1770.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, May 1st. Gentle breezes, Northerly. In the P.M. 10 of the +Natives again visited the Watering place. I, being on board at this time, +went immediately ashore, but before I got there they were going away. I +follow'd them alone and unarm'd some distance along shore, but they would +not stop until they got farther off than I choose to trust myself. These +were armed in the same manner as those that came Yesterday. In the +evening I sent some hands to haul the Saine, but they caught but a very +few fish. A little after sunrise I found the Variation to be 11 degrees 3 +minutes East. Last night Forby Sutherland, Seaman, departed this Life, +and in the A.M. his body Was buried ashore at the watering place, which +occasioned my calling the south point of this bay after his name. This +morning a party of us went ashore to some Hutts, not far from the +Watering place, where some of the Natives are daily seen; here we left +several articles, such as Cloth, Looking Glasses, Coombs, Beads, Nails, +etc.; after this we made an Excursion into the Country, which we found +diversified with Woods, Lawns, and Marshes. The woods are free from +underwood of every kind, and the trees are at such a distance from one +another that the whole Country, or at least great part of it, might be +Cultivated without being obliged to cut down a single tree. We found the +Soil every where, except in the Marshes, to be a light white sand, and +produceth a quantity of good Grass, which grows in little Tufts about as +big as one can hold in one's hand, and pretty close to one another; in +this manner the Surface of the Ground is Coated. In the woods between the +Trees Dr. Solander had a bare sight of a Small Animal something like a +Rabbit, and we found the Dung of an Animal* (* This was the kangaroo.) +which must feed upon Grass, and which, we judge, could not be less than a +Deer; we also saw the Track of a Dog, or some such like Animal. We met +with some Hutts and places where the Natives had been, and at our first +setting out one of them was seen; the others, I suppose, had fled upon +our Approach. I saw some Trees that had been cut down by the Natives with +some sort of a Blunt instrument, and several Trees that were barqued, the +bark of which had been cut by the same instrument; in many of the Trees, +especially the Palms, were cut steps of about 3 or 4 feet asunder for the +conveniency of Climbing them. We found 2 Sorts of Gum, one sort of which +is like Gum Dragon, and is the same, I suppose, Tasman took for Gum lac; +it is extracted from the largest tree in the Woods.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 2nd. Between 3 and 4 in the P.M. we return'd out of the +Country, and after Dinner went ashore to the watering place, where we had +not been long before 17 or 18 of the Natives appeared in sight. In the +morning I had sent Mr. Gore, with a boat, up to the head of the Bay to +drudge for Oysters; in his return to the Ship he and another person came +by land, and met with these people, who followed him at the Distance of +10 or 20 Yards. Whenever Mr. Gore made a stand and faced them they stood +also, and notwithstanding they were all Arm'd, they never offer'd to +Attack him; but after he had parted from them, and they were met by Dr. +Monkhouse and one or 2 more, who, upon making a Sham retreat, they +throw'd 3 darts after them, after which they began to retire. Dr. +Solander, I, and Tupia made all the haste we could after them, but could +not, either by words or Actions, prevail upon them to come near us, Mr. +Gore saw some up the Bay, who by signs invited him ashore, which he +prudently declined. In the A.M. had the wind in the South-East with rain, +which prevented me from making an Excursion up the head of the bay as I +intended.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. In +the P.M. I made a little excursion along the Sea Coast to the Southward, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. At our first entering the +woods we saw 3 of the Natives, who made off as soon as they saw us; more +of them were seen by others of our people, who likewise made off as soon +as they found they were discover'd. In the A.M. I went in the Pinnace to +the head of the bay, accompanied by Drs. Solander and Monkhouse, in order +to Examine the Country, and to try to form some Connections with the +Natives. In our way thither we met with 10 or 12 of them fishing, each in +a Small Canoe, who retir'd into Shoald water upon our approach. Others +again we saw at the first place we landed at, who took to their Canoes, +and fled before we came near them; after this we took Water, and went +almost to the head of the inlet, were we landed and Travel'd some +distance in land. We found the face of the Country much the same as I +have before described, but the land much richer for instead of sand I +found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought was Capable of +producing any kind of grain. At present it produceth, besides Timber, as +fine Meadow as ever was seen; however, we found it not all like this, +some few places were very rocky, but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The +stone is sandy, and very proper for building, etc. After we had +sufficiently examin'd this part we return'd to the Boat, and seeing some +Smoke and Canoes at another part we went thither, in hopes of meeting +with the people, but they made off as we approached. There were 6 Canoes +and 6 small fires near the Shore, and Muscles roasting upon them, and a +few Oysters laying near; from this we conjectured that there had been +just 6 people, who had been out each in his Canoe picking up the Shell +fish, and come a Shore to eat them, where each had made his fire to dress +them by. We tasted of their Cheer, and left them in return Strings of +beads, etc. The day being now far spent, we set out on our return to the +Ship.</p> + +<p>Friday, 4th. Winds northerly, serene weather. Upon my return to the Ship +in the evening I found that none of the Natives had Appear'd near the +Watering place, but about 20 of them had been fishing in their Canoes at +no great distance from us. In the A.M., as the Wind would not permit us +to sail, I sent out some parties into the Country to try to form some +Connections with the Natives. One of the Midshipmen met with a very old +man and Woman and 2 Small Children; they were Close to the Water side, +where several more were in their Canoes gathering of Shell fish, and he, +being alone, was afraid to make any stay with the 2 old People least he +should be discovr'd by those in the Canoes. He gave them a bird he had +Shott, which they would not Touch; neither did they speak one word, but +seem'd to be much frightned. They were quite Naked; even the Woman had +nothing to cover her nudities. Dr. Monkhouse and another Man being in the +Woods, not far from the watering place, discover'd 6 more of the Natives, +who at first seem'd to wait his coming; but as he was going up to them he +had a dart thrown at him out of a Tree, which narrowly escaped him. As +soon as the fellow had thrown the dart he descended the Tree and made +off, and with him all the rest, and these were all that were met with in +the Course of this day.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 5th. In the P.M. I went with a party of Men over to the North +Shore, and while some hands were hauling the Sean, a party of us made an +Excursion of 3 or 4 Miles into the Country, or rather along the Sea +Coast. We met with nothing remarkable; great part of the Country for some +distance inland from the Sea Coast is mostly a barren heath, diversified +with Marshes and Morasses. Upon our return to the Boat we found they had +caught a great number of small fish, which the sailors call leather +Jackets on account of their having a very thick skin; they are known in +the West Indies. I had sent the Yawl in the morning to fish for Sting +rays, who returned in the Evening with upwards of four hundred weight; +one single one weigh'd 240 pounds Exclusive of the entrails. In the A.M., +as the wind Continued Northerly, I sent the Yawl again a fishing, and I +went with a party of Men into the Country, but met with nothing +extraordinary.</p> + +<p>[Description of Botany Bay, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 6th. In the evening the Yawl return'd from fishing, having Caught +2 Sting rays weighing near 600 pounds. The great quantity of plants Mr. +Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the +Name of Botany Bay.* (* The Bay was at first called Stingray Bay. The +plan of it at the Admiralty is called by this name, and none of the logs +know Botany Bay. It seems probable that Cook finally settled on the name +after the ship left, and when Banks had had time to examine his +collections. A monument was erected in 1870 near the spot, on the +southern side, where Cook first landed. Botany Bay was intended to be the +site where the first settlement of convicts should be made, but on the +arrival of Captain Phillip, on January 18th, 1788, he found it so +unsuited for the number of his colony that he started in a boat to +examine Broken Bay. On his way he went into Port Jackson, and immediately +decided on settling there. On the 25th and 26th the ships went round, and +Sydney was founded.) It is situated in the Latitude of 34 degrees 0 +minutes South, Longitude 208 degrees 37 minutes West. It is capacious, +safe, and Commodious; it may be known by the land on the Sea Coast, which +is of a pretty even and moderate height, Rather higher than it is inland, +with steep rocky Clifts next the Sea, and looks like a long Island lying +close under the Shore. The Entrance of the Bay lies about the Middle of +this land. In coming from the Southward it is discover'd before you are +abreast of it, which you cannot do in coming from the Northward; the +entrance is little more than a Quarter of a Mile broad, and lies in +West-North-West. To sail into it keep the South shore on board until +within a small bare Island, which lies close under the North Shore. Being +within that Island the deepest of Water is on that side, 7, 6 and 5 +fathoms a good way up; there is Shoald Water a good way off from the +South Shore--from the inner South Point quite to the head of the harbour; +but over towards the North and North-West Shore is a Channell of 12 or 14 +feet at low Water, 3 or 4 Leagues up, to a place where there is 3 or 4 +fathoms; but there I found very little fresh Water. We Anchor'd near the +South Shore about a Mile within the Entrance for the Conveniency of +Sailing with a Southerly wind and the getting of Fresh Water; but I +afterwards found a very fine stream of fresh Water on the North shore in +the first sandy Cove within the Island, before which the Ship might lay +almost land locked, and wood for fuel may be got everywhere. Although +wood is here in great plenty, yet there is very little Variety; the +bigest trees are as large or larger than our Oaks in England, and grows a +good deal like them, and Yields a reddish Gum; the wood itself is heavy, +hard, and black like Lignum Vitae. Another sort that grows tall and +Strait something like Pines--the wood of this is hard and Ponderous, and +something of the Nature of America live Oak. These 2 are all the Timber +trees I met with; there are a few sorts of Shrubs and several Palm Trees +and Mangroves about the Head of the Harbour. The Country is woody, low, +and flat as far in as we could see, and I believe that the Soil is in +general sandy. In the Wood are a variety of very beautiful birds, such as +Cocatoos, Lorryquets, Parrots, etc., and crows Exactly like those we have +in England. Water fowl is no less plenty about the head of the Harbour, +where there is large flats of sand and Mud, on which they seek their +food; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which +was black and white, and as large as a Goose, but most like a Pelican.* +(* Most probably the Black and White or Semipalmated Goose, now +exterminated in these parts.) On the sand and Mud banks are Oysters, +Muscles, Cockles, etc., which I believe are the Chief support of the +inhabitants, who go into Shoald Water with their little Canoes and peck +them out of the sand and Mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and +Eat them in the Canoe, having often a fire for that purpose, as I +suppose, for I know no other it can be for. The Natives do not appear to +be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispers'd +in small parties along by the Water side. Those I saw were about as tall +as Europeans, of a very dark brown Colour, but not black, nor had they +woolly, frizled hair, but black and lank like ours. No sort of Cloathing +or Ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or +about any of their Hutts; from which I conclude that they never wear any. +Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of White +Paint or Pigment. Altho' I have said that shell fish is their Chief +support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found +roasting on the fire the first time we landed; some of these they strike +with Gigs,* (* A fishing implement like a trident.) and others they catch +with hook and line; we have seen them strike fish with gigs, and hooks +and lines are found in their Hutts. Sting rays, I believe, they do not +eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their Hutts +or fire places. However, we could know but very little of their Customs, +as we never were able to form any Connections with them; they had not so +much as touch'd the things we had left in their Hutts on purpose for them +to take away. During our stay in this Harbour I caused the English +Colours to be display'd ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut +out upon one of the Trees near the Watering place, setting forth the +Ship's Name, Date, etc. [Off Port Jackson, New South Wales.]Having seen +everything this place afforded, we, at daylight in the morning, weigh'd +with a light breeze at North-West, and put to Sea, and the wind soon +after coming to the Southward we steer'd along shore North-North-East, +and at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33 degrees 50 +minutes South, about 2 or 3 Miles from the Land, and abreast of a Bay, +wherein there appear'd to be safe Anchorage, which I called Port +Jackson.* (* Cook having completed his water at Botany Bay, and having +many hundreds of miles of coast before him, did not examine Port Jackson, +the magnificent harbour in which Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, +now lies. His chart gives the shape of what he could see very accurately, +but the main arm of the harbour is hidden from the sea. He named the bay +after Mr. (afterwards Sir George) Jackson, one of the Secretaries of the +Admiralty. This fact is recorded on a tablet in the Bishop Stortford +Church to the memory of Sir George Duckett, which name Sir George had +assumed in later years. This interesting evidence was brought to light by +Sir Alfred Stephen, Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales, and puts an +end to the legend which was long current, that Port Jackson was named +after a sailor who first saw it. There was, moreover, no person of the +name of Jackson on board.) It lies 3 leagues to the Northward of Botany +Bay. I had almost forgot to mention that it is high water in this Bay at +the full and change of the Moon about 8 o'Clock, and rises and falls upon +a Perpendicular about 4 or 5 feet.</p> + +<p>Monday, 7th. Little wind, Southerly, and Serene pleasant Weather. In the +P.M. found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 8 degrees East; at +sunset the Northermost land in sight bore North 26 degrees East; and some +broken land that appear'd to form a bay bore North 40 degrees West, +distant 4 Leagues. This Bay I named Broken bay,* (* The Hawkesbury River, +the largest on the east coast of Australia, runs into Broken Bay.) +Latitude 33 degrees 36 minutes South. We steer'd along shore +North-North-East all night at the distance of about 3 Leagues from the +land, having from 32 to 36 fathoms, hard sandy bottom. A little after sun +rise I took several Azimuths with 4 Needles belonging to the Azimuth +Compass, the mean result of which gave the Variation of 7 degrees 56 +minutes East. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33 +degrees 22 minutes South, and about 3 Leagues from the land, the +Northermost part of which in sight bore North 19 degrees East. Some +pretty high land which projected out in 3 bluff Points, and occasioned my +calling it Cape 3 Points (Latitude 33 degrees 33 minutes South), bore +South-West, distant 5 Leagues; Longitude made from Botany Bay 0 degrees +19 minutes East.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 8th. Variable Light Airs and Clear weather. In the P.M. saw some +smooks upon the Shore, and in the Evening found the Variation to be 8 +degrees 25 minutes East; at this time we were about 2 or 3 Miles from the +land, and had 28 fathoms Water. Our situation at Noon was nearly the same +as Yesterday, having advanced not one Step to the Northward.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 9th. Winds northerly; most part a fresh breeze, with which we +stood off Shore until 12 at Night. At the distance of 5 Leagues from the +land had 70 fathoms, at the distance of 6 Leagues 80 fathoms, which is +the Extent of the Soundings, for at the Distance of 10 Leagues off we had +no ground with 150 fathoms. Stood in Shore until 8 o'Clock A.M., and +hardly fetched Cape Three Points; having a little wind at North-West by +North, we tack'd, and stood off until Noon, at which Time we Tack'd with +the wind at North-North-East, being then in the Latitude of 33 degrees 37 +minutes South, Cape Three Points bearing North West by West, distance 4 +Leagues.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 10th. In the P.M., had the wind at North-East by North, with +which we stood in Shore until near 4 o'Clock, when we Tack'd in 23 +fathoms Water, being about a Mile from the land, and as much to the +Southward of Cape 3 Points. In the night the wind veer'd to North-West +and West, and in the morning to South-West. Having the advantage of a +light Moon, we made the best of our way along shore to the Northward. At +Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 32 degrees 53 minutes +South, and Longitude 208 degrees 0 minutes West, and about 2 Leagues from +the land, which extended from North 41 degrees East to South 41 degrees +West. A small round rock or Island,* (* Nobby Head, at the entrance of +Newcastle Harbour, formed by the Hunter River. Newcastle is the great +coal port of New South Wales. It has a population of 20,000, and exports +1,500,000 tons of coal in the year.) laying close under the land, bore +South 82 degrees West, distance 3 or 4 Leagues. At sunrise in the Morning +found the Variation to be 8 degrees East. In the Latitude of 33 degrees 2 +minutes South, a little way inland, is a remarkable hill, that is shaped +like the Crown of a Hatt, which we past about 9 o'Clock in the forenoon.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Hawke, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 11th. Winds Southerly in the day, and in the night Westerly; a +Gentle breeze and Clear weather. At 4 P.M. past, at the distance of one +Mile, a low rocky point which I named Point Stephens (Latitude 32 degrees +45 minutes); on the North side of this point is an inlet which I called +Port Stephens* (* Called after Mr. Stephens, one of the Secretaries to +the Admiralty. It is a large and fine harbour.) (Latitude 32 degrees 40 +minutes; Longitude 207 degrees 51 minutes), that appear'd to me from the +Masthead to be shelter'd from all Winds. At the Entrance lay 3 Small +Islands, 2 of which are of a Tolerable height, and on the Main, near the +shore, are some high round hills that make at a distance like Islands. In +passing this bay at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the Shore our +soundings were from 33 to 27 fathoms; from which I conjectured that there +must be a sufficient depth of Water for Shipping in the bay. We saw +several smokes a little way in the Country upon the flat land; by this I +did suppose that there were Lagoons which afforded subsistance for the +Natives, such as shell-fish, etc., for we as yet know nothing else they +have to live upon. At 1/2 past 5, the Northermost land in sight bore +North 36 degrees East, and Point Stephens South-West, distant 4 Leagues, +at which time we took in our Steerings,* (* Studding sails.) and run +under an Easey sail all night until 4 A.M., when we made all sail; our +soundings in the night were from 48 to 62 fathoms, at the distance of +between 3 and 4 Leagues from the land. At 8 we were abreast of a high +point of Land, which made in 2 Hillocks; this point I called Cape Hawke* +(* After Admiral Sir Edward Hawke, First Lord of the Admiralty.) +(Latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 207 degrees 30 minutes +West). It bore from us at this time West distant 8 Miles, and the same +time the Northermost land in sight bore North 6 degrees East, and +appear'd high and like an Island. At Noon this land bore North 8 degrees +East, the Northermost land in sight North 13 degrees East, and Cape Hawke +South 37 degrees West. Latitude in per Observation 32 degrees 2 minutes +South, which was 12 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log, +which I do suppose to be owing to a Current setting that way. Course and +distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon was first North-East by East, 27 +Miles, then North 10 degrees East, 37 Miles; Longitude in 207 degrees 20 +minutes West; Variation per morning Amplitude and Azimuth 9 degrees 10 +minutes East.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 12th. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze in the P.M. As we run +along Shore we saw several smokes a little way in land from the Sea, and +one upon the Top of a hill, which was the first we have seen upon +elevated ground since we have been upon the Coast. At sunset we were in +23 fathoms, and about a League and a half from the land, the Northermost +part of which we had in sight bore North 13 degrees East; and 3 +remarkable large high hills lying Contigious to each other, and not far +from the shore, bore North-North-West. As these Hills bore some +resemblance to each other we called them the 3 Brothers. We steer'd +North-East by North all Night, having from 27 to 67 fathoms, from 2 to 5 +and 6 Leagues from the Land, and at day light we steer'd North for the +Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were 4 Leagues from the +Land, and by observation in the Latitude of 31 degrees 18 minutes South, +which was 15 miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Our Course +and distance made good since Yesterday noon was North 24 degrees East, 48 +miles. Longitude 206 degrees 58 minutes West; several smokes seen a +little way in land.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 13th. In the P.M. stood in shore with the Wind at North-East +until 6, at which time we Tack'd, being about 3 or 4 miles from the land, +and in 24 fathoms. Stood off shore with a fresh breeze at North and +North-North-West until midnight, then Tack'd, being in 118 fathoms and 8 +Leagues from the Land. At 3 a.m. the wind veer'd to the Westward, and we +Tack'd and stood to the Northward. At noon we were by Observation in the +Latitude of 30 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 45 +minutes West, and about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land, the Northermost +part of which bore from us North 13 degrees West; and a point or head +land, on which were fires that Caused a great Quantity of smoke, which +occasioned my giving it the name of Smokey Cape, bore South-West, distant +4 Leagues; it is moderately high land. Over the pitch of the point is a +round hillock; within it 2 others, much higher and larger, and within +them very low land (Latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees +5 minutes West). Besides the smoke seen upon this Cape we saw more in +several places along the Coast. The observed Latitude was only 5 Miles to +the Southward of the Log.</p> + +<p>Monday, 14th. At the P.M. it fell Calm, and continued so about an hour, +when a breeze sprung up at North-East, with which we stood in shore until +6 o'Clock, when, being in 30 fathoms and 3 or 4 Miles from the land, we +Tack'd, having the wind at North-North-West. At this time Smoky Cape bore +South 3/4 degrees West, distant about 5 Leagues, and the Northermost land +in sight North 1/4 degrees East. At 8 we made a Trip in shore for an +hour; after this the wind came off Shore, with which we stood along shore +to the Northward, having from 30 to 21 fathoms, at the distance of 4 or 5 +Miles from the Land. At 5 A.M. the Wind veer'd to North, and blow'd a +fresh breeze, attended with Squalls and dark cloudy weather. At 8 it +began to Thunder and Rain, which lasted about an Hour, and then fell +Calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and found 86 fathoms, being +about 4 or 5 Leagues from the Land; after this we got the wind Southerly, +a fresh breeze and fair weather, and we Steer'd North by West for the +Northermost land we had in sight. At noon we were about 4 Leagues from +the land, and by observation in the Latitude of 30 degrees 22 minutes +South, which was 9 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. +Longitude in 206 degrees 39 minutes West, and Course and distance made +good since Yesterday Noon North 16 degrees East, 22 miles; some Tolerable +high land near the Shore bore West. As I have not mentioned the Aspect of +the Country since we left Botany Bay, I shall now describe it as it hath +at different times appear'd to us. As we have advanced to the Northward +the land hath increased in height, in so much that in this Latitude it +may be called a hilly Country; but between this and Botany Bay it is +diversified with an agreeable variety of Hills, Ridges, and Valleys, and +large plains all Cloathed with wood, which to all appearance is the same +as I have before mentioned, as we could discover no Visible alteration in +the Soil. Near the shore the land is in general low and Sandy, except the +points which are rocky, and over many of them are pretty high hills, +which at first rising out of the Water appear like a Island.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, West-South-West, and +South-South-West. In the P.M. had some heavy Squalls, attended with rain +and hail, which obliged us to close reef our Topsails. Between 2 and 4 we +had some small rocky Islands* (* The Solitary Islands.) between us and +the land; the Southermost lies in the Latitude of 30 degrees 10 minutes, +the Northermost in 29 degrees 58 minutes, and about 2 Leagues or more +from the land; we sounded, and had 33 fathoms about 12 Miles without this +last island. At 8 we brought too until 10, at which time we made sail +under our Topsails. Having the Advantage of the Moon we steer'd along +shore North and North by East, keeping at the distance of about 3 Leagues +from the land having from 30 to 25 fathoms. As soon as it was daylight we +made all the sail we could, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale and fair +weather.* (* During the night the entrance of the Clarence River, now the +outlet for the produce of a large and rich agricultural district, was +passed, and in the morning that of the Richmond River, which serves a +similar purpose.) At 9, being about a League from the Land, we saw upon +it people and Smoke in Several places. At noon we were by observation in +the Latitude of 28 degrees 39 minutes South, and Longitude 206 degrees 27 +minutes West; Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon North 6 +degrees 45 minutes East, 104 Miles. A Tolerable high point of land bore +North-West by West, distant 3 Miles; this point I named Cape Byron* (* +Captain John Byron was one of Cook's predecessors in exploration in the +Pacific, having sailed round the World in H.M.S. Dolphin, in company with +the Tamar, in 1764 to 1766.) (Latitude 28 degrees 37 minutes 30 seconds +South, Longitude 206 degrees 30 minutes West). It may be known by a +remarkable sharp peaked Mountain lying in land North-West by West from +it. From this point the land Trends North 13 degrees West. Inland it is +pretty high and hilly, but near the Shore it is low; to the Southward of +the Point the land is low, and Tolerable level.</p> + +<p>[Off Point Danger, New South Wales.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 16th. Winds Southerly, a fresh Gale, with which we steer'd +North along shore until sunset, at which time we discover'd breakers +ahead, and on our Larboard bow, being at this time in 20 fathoms, and +about 5 miles from the land. Haul'd off East until 8, at which time we +had run 8 Miles, and had increased our Depth of Water to 44 fathoms. We +then brought too with her head to the Eastward, and lay on this Tack +until 10 o'Clock, when, having increased our Soundings to 78 fathoms, we +wore and lay with her head in shore until 5 o'Clock a.m., when we made +Sail. At daylight we were surprized by finding ourselves farther to the +Southward than we were in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all +night Southerly. We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed +at the distance of about 1 League; they lay in the Latitude of 28 degrees +8 minutes South, and stretch off East 2 Leagues from a point under which +is a small Island; their situation may always be found by the peaked +mountain before mentioned, which bears South-West by West from them, and +on their account I have named it Mount Warning. It lies 7 or 8 Leagues in +land in the Latitude of 28 degrees 22 minutes South. The land is high and +hilly about it, but it is Conspicuous enough to be distinguished from +everything else. The point off which these shoals lay I have named Point +Danger;* (* Point Danger is the boundary point on the coast between New +South Wales and Queensland.) to the Northward of it the land, which is +low, Trends North-West by North; but we soon found that it did not keep +that direction long before it turn'd again to the Northward. At Noon we +were about 2 Leagues from the land, and by observation in the Latitude of +27 degrees 46 minutes, which was 17 Miles to the Southward of the Log; +Longitude 206 degrees 26 minutes West. Mount Warning bore South 20 +degrees West, distant 14 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight bore +North. Our Course and distance made good since yesterday North 1 degree +45 minutes West, 53 miles.</p> + +<p>[Off Moreton Bay, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 17th. Winds Southerly, mostly a fresh breeze, with which in the +P.M. we steer'd along shore North 3/4 East, at the distance of about 2 +Leagues off. Between 4 and 5 we discover'd breakers on our Larboard bow; +our Depth of Water at this time was 37 fathoms. At sunset the Northermost +land in sight bore North by West, the breakers North-West by West, +distant 4 Miles, and the Northermost land set at Noon, which form'd a +Point, I named Point Lookout, bore West, distant 5 or 6 Miles (Latitude +27 degrees 6 minutes).* (* There is some mistake in this latitude. It +should be 27 degrees 26 minutes.) On the North side of this point the +shore forms a wide open bay, which I have named Morton's Bay,* (* James, +Earl of Morton, was President of the Royal Society in 1764, and one of +the Commissioners of Longitude.) in the Bottom of which the land is so +low that I could but just see it from the Topmast head. The breakers I +have just mentioned lies about 3 or 4 Miles from Point Lookout; at this +time we had a great Sea from the Southward, which broke prodigious high +upon them. Stood on North-North-East until 8, when, being past the +breakers, and having Deepned our water to 52 fathoms, we brought too +until 12 o'Clock, then made sail to the North-North-East. At 4 A.M. we +sounded, and had 135 fathoms. At daylight I found that we had in the +night got much farther to the Northward and from the Shore than I +expected from the Course we steer'd, for we were at least 6 or 7 Leagues +off, and therefore hauled in North-West by West, having the Advantage of +a Fresh Gale at South-South-West. The Northermost land seen last night +bore from us at this time South-South-West, distant 6 Leagues. This land +I named Cape Morton, it being the North point of the Bay of the same Name +(Latitude 26 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 28 minutes). +From Cape Morton the Land Trends away West, further than we could see, +for there is a small space where we could see no land; some on board +where of opinion that there is a River there because the Sea looked paler +than usual. Upon sounding we found 34 fathoms fine white sandy bottom, +which alone is Sufficient change, the apparent Colour of Sea Water, +without the Assistance of Rivers. The land need only to be low here, as +it is in a Thousand other places upon the Coast, to have made it +impossible for us to have seen it at the distance we were off. Be this as +it may, it was a point that could not be clear'd up as we had the wind; +but should any one be desirous of doing it that may come after me, this +place may always be found by 3 Hills which lay to the Northward of it in +the Latitude of 26 degrees 53 minutes South. These hills lay but a little +way inland, and not far from Each other; they are very remarkable on +account of their Singular form of Elivation, which very much resembles +Glass Houses,* (* The Glass houses form a well-known sea mark on entering +Moreton Bay, as the name is now written. Brisbane, the capital of +Queensland, stands on the river of the same name, which falls into +Moreton Bay.) which occasioned my giving them that Name. The Northermost +of the 3 is the highest and largest. There are likewise several other +peaked hills inland to the Northward of these, but they are not near so +remarkable. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 26 degrees +28 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of the Log; a +Circumstance that hath not hapned since we have been upon the Coast +before. Our Course and distance run since Yesterday noon was North by +West 80 Miles, which brought us into the Longitude of 206 degrees 46 +minutes. At this time we were about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, and in +24 fathoms Water; a low bluff point, which was the Southern point of an +open Sandy bay,* (* Laguna Bay. The point is called Low Bluff.) bore +North 52 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost point of +land in sight bore North 1/4 East. Several Smokes seen to-day, and some +pretty far inland.</p> + +<p>Friday, 18th. In steering along shore at the distance of 2 Leagues off +our Soundings was from 24 to 32 fathoms Sandy bottom. At 6 P.M. the North +point set at Noon bore North 1/4 West; distant 4 Leagues; at 10 it bore +North-West by West 1/2 West, and as we had seen no land to the Northward +of it we brought too, not knowing which way to steer, having at this time +but little wind, and continued so for the most part of the night. At 2 +P.M. we made sail with the wind at South-West, and at daylight saw the +land extending as far as North 3/4 East. The point set last night bore +South-West by West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues; I have named it Double Island +Point, on account of its figure (Latitude 25 degrees 58 minutes South, +Longitude 206 degrees 48 minutes West). The land within this point is of +a moderate and pretty equal height, but the point itself is of such an +unequal Height that it looks like 2 Small Islands laying under the land; +it likewise may be known by the white Clifts on the North side of it. +Here the land trends to the North-West, and forms a large open bay,* (* +Wide Bay.) in the bottom of which the land appear'd to be very low, in so +much that we could but just see it from the Deck. In crossing the mouth +of this bay our Depth of Water was from 30 to 32 fathoms, a white sandy +bottom. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the Land, and in the +Latitude of 25 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 206 degrees 45 minutes +West; Double Island Point bore South 3/4 West, and the Northermost land +in sight North 3/4 East. The land hereabouts, which is of a moderate +height, appears more barren than any we have yet seen on this Coast, and +the Soil more sandy, there being several large places where nothing else +is to be seen; in other places the woods look to be low and Shrubby, nor +did we see many signs of inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 19th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs, and Calms; in the +night had a light breeze from the land, which in the A.M. veer'd to +South-West and South-South-West. In the evening found the Variation to be +8 degrees 36 minutes East, and in the Morning 8 degrees 20 minutes; as we +had but little wind we keept to the Northward all night, having from 23 +to 27 fathoms fine sandy bottom, at the Distance of 2 or 3 Leagues from +the Land. At Noon we were about 4 Miles from it, and by observation in +the Latitude of 25 degrees 4 minutes, and in this situation had but 13 +fathoms; the Northermost land in Sight bore North 21 degrees West, +distant 8 Miles; our Course and distance saild since yesterday at Noon +was North 13 degrees 15 minutes East, 31 Miles.</p> + +<p>[Off Sandy Cape, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 20th. Winds Southerly, Gentle breezes. At 10 p.m. we passed, at +the distance of 4 Miles, having 17 fathoms, a black bluff head or point +of land, on which a number of the Natives were Assembled, which +occasioned my naming it Indian Head; Latitude 25 degrees 0 minutes North +by West, 4 Miles from this head, is another much like it. From this last +the land Trends a little more to the Westward, and is low and Sandy next +the Sea, for what may be behind it I know not; if land, it must be all +low, for we could see no part of it from the Mast head. We saw people in +other places besides the one I have mentioned; some Smokes in the day and +fires in the Night. Having but little wind all Night, we keept on to the +Northward, having from 17 to 34 fathoms, from 4 Miles to 4 Leagues from +the Land, the Northermost part of which bore from us at daylight +West-South-West, and seem'd to End in a point, from which we discover'd a +Reef stretching out to the Northward as far as we could see, being, at +this time, in 18 fathoms; for we had, before it was light, hauld our Wind +to the Westward, and this course we continued until we had plainly +discover'd breakers a long way upon our Lee Bow, which seem'd to Stretch +quite home to the land. We then Edged away North-West and +North-North-West, along the East side of the Shoal, from 2 to 1 Miles +off, having regular, even Soundings, from 13 to 7 fathoms; fine sandy +bottom. At Noon we were, by Observation, in the Latitude of 24 degrees 26 +minutes South, which was 13 Miles to the Northward of that given by the +Log. The extream point of the Shoal we judged to bear about North-West of +us; and the point of land above-mentioned bore South 3/4 West, distant 20 +Miles. This point I have named Sandy Cape,* (* Sandy Cape is the northern +point of Great Sandy Island. A long narrow channel separates the latter +from the mainland, and opens at its northern end into Harvey Bay, a great +sheet of water 40 miles across. This channel is now much used by the +coasting trade, as it avoids the long detour round Breaksea Spit, a most +dangerous shoal.) on account of 2 very large white Patches of Sand upon +it. It is of a height Sufficient to be seen 12 Leagues in Clear weather +(Latitude 24 degrees 46 minutes, Longitude 206 degrees 51 minutes West); +from it the Land trends away West-South-West and South-West as far as we +could see.</p> + +<p>Monday, 21st. In the P.M. we keept along the East side of the Shoal until +2, when, judging there was water for us over, I sent a Boat a Head to +sound, and upon her making the Signal for more than 5 fathoms we hauld +our wind and stood over the Tail of it in 6 fathoms. At this time we were +in the Latitude of 24 degrees 22 minutes South, and Sandy Cape bore South +1/2 East, distant 8 Leagues; but the Direction of the Shoal is nearest +North-North-West and South-South-East. At this time we had 6 fathoms; the +boat which was not above 1/4 of a mile to the Southward of us had little +more than 5 fathoms. From 6 fathoms we had the next Cast, 13, and then 20 +immediately, as fast as the Man could heave the Lead; from this I did +suppose that the West side of the Shoal is pretty steep too, whereas on +the other side we had gradual Soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms. This Shoal +I called Break Sea Spit, because now we had smooth water, whereas upon +the whole Coast to the Southward of it we had always a high Sea or swell +from the South-East. At 6, the Land of Sandy Cape extending from South 17 +degrees East to South 27 degrees East, distance 8 Leagues; Depth of +Water, 23 fathoms, which depth we keept all Night, as we stood to the +Westward with light Airs from the Southward; but between 12 and 4 A.M. we +had it Calm, after which a Gentle breeze sprung up at South, with which +we still keept on upon a Wind to the Westward. At 7 we Saw from the +Masthead the Land of Sandy Cape bearing South-East 1/2 East, distance 12 +or 13 Leagues. At 9, we discover'd from the Mast head land to the +Westward, and soon after saw smooke upon it. Our depth of Water was now +decreased to 17 fathoms, and by Noon to 13, at which time we were by +observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 28 minutes South, and about 7 +Leagues from the Land, which extended from South by West to +West-North-West. Longitude made from Sandy Cape 0 degrees 45 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>For these few days past we have seen at times a sort of Sea fowl we have +no where seen before that I remember; they are of the sort called +Boobies. Before this day we seldom saw more than 2 or 3 at a time, and +only when we were near the land. Last night a small flock of these birds +passed the Ship and went away to the North-West, and this morning from +1/2 an hour before sun rise to half an hour after, flights of them were +continually coming from the North-North-West, and flying to the +South-South-East, and not one was seen to fly in any other direction. +From this we did suppose that there was a Lagoon, River, or Inlet of +Shallow Water to the Southward of us, where these birds resorted to in +the day to feed, and that not very far to the Northward lay some Island, +where they retir'd too in the night.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East, with which +we stood in for the land South-West until 4, when, being in the Latitude +of 24 degrees 36 minutes South, and about 2 Leagues from land, in 9 +fathoms, we bore away along shore North-West by West; at the same time we +could see the land extending to the South-South-East about 8 Leagues. +Near the Sea the land is very low, but inland are some moderately high +hills, and the whole appeared to be thickly Cloathed with wood. In +running along shore we shoalded our Water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at one +time had but 6 fathoms, which determined me to Anchor for the Night, and +accordingly at 8 o'Clock we came too in 8 fathoms, fine gravelly bottom, +about 5 miles from the land. This evening we saw a Water Snake, and 2 or +3 evenings ago one lay under the Ship's Stern some time; this was about 1 +1/2 Yards in length, and was the first we had seen. At 6 A.M. weighed +with a Gentle breeze Southerly, and Steer'd North-West 1/4 West, edging +in for the land until we got Within 2 Miles of it, having from 7 to 11 +fathoms; we then steer'd North-North-West as the land laid. At Noon we +were by Observation in the Latitude of 24 degrees 19 minutes South; +Longitude made from Sandy Cape 1 degree 14 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor. Bustard Bay, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 23rd. Continued our Course alongshore at the distance of about +2 Miles off, having from 12 to 9, 8 and 7 fathoms, until 5 o'Clock, at +which time we were abreast of the South point of a Large open Bay,* (* +Bustard Bay.) wherein I intended to Anchor. Accordingly we hauld in Close +upon a Wind, and sent a boat ahead to sound; after making some Trips we +Anchored at 8 o'Clock in 5 fathoms, a Sandy bottom. The South point of +the bay bore East 3/4 South, distant 2 Miles; the North point North-West +1/4 North, about 2 Miles from the shore, in the bottom of the bay. Last +night, some time in the Middle watch, a very extraordinary affair hapned +to Mr. Orton, my Clerk. He having been drinking in the evening, some +Malicious person or persons in the Ship took Advantage of his being +Drunk, and cut off all the Cloaths from off his back; not being satisfied +with this, they some time after went into his Cabin and cut off a part of +both his Ears as he lay a Sleep in his Bed. The person whom he suspected +to have done this was Mr. Magra, one of the Midshipmen; but this did not +appear to me. Upon enquiry, however, as I had been told that Magra had +once or twice before this in their drunken Frolicks cut off his cloaths, +and had been heard to say (as I was told) that if it was not for the Law +he would Murder him, these things consider'd, induced me to think that +Magra was not Altogether innocent. I therefore for the present dismiss'd +him the Quarter deck, and Suspended him from doing any duty in the Ship, +he being one of those Gentlemen frequently found on board King's Ships +that can very well be spared; besides, it was necessary in me to show my +immediate resentment against the person on whom the suspicion fell, least +they should not have stop'd here. With respect to Mr. Orton, he is a man +not without faults; yet from all the inquiry I could make, it evidently +appear'd to me that so far from deserving such Treatment, he had not +designed injuring any person in the Ship; so that I do--and shall +always--look upon him as an injured man. Some reasons, however, might be +given why this misfortune came upon him, in which he himself was in some +measure to blame; but as this is only conjecture, and would tend to fix +it upon some people in the Ship, whom I would fain believe would hardly +be guilty of such an Action, I shall say nothing about it, unless I shall +hereafter discover the Offenders, which I shall take every method in my +power to do, for I look upon such proceedings as highly dangerous in such +Voyages as this, and the greatest insult that could be offer'd to my +Authority in this Ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress +every complaint that have been made against any Person in the Ship.* (* +This history of Mr. Orton's misadventure is omitted from the Admiralty +copy. It is an illustration of the times to note that the fact of Orton +having got drunk does not seem to call for the Captain's severe censure. +In these days, though the practical joker receives punishment, the +drunkard would certainly come in for a large share also.)</p> + +<p>In the A.M. I went ashore with a party of men in order to Examine the +Country, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other Gentlemen; we landed a +little within the South point of the Bay, where there is a Channel +leading into a large Lagoon. The first thing that I did was to sound and +examine the Channell, in which I found 3 fathoms, until I got about a +Mile up it, where I met with a Shoal, whereon was little more than one +fathom; being over this I had 3 fathoms again. The Entrance into this +Channell lies close to the South point of this Bay, being form'd on the +East by the Shore, and on the West by a large Spit of sand; it is about a +1/4 of a Mile broad, and lies in South by West; here is room for a few +Ships to lay very secure, and a small Stream of Fresh Water. After this I +made a little excursion into the Woods while some hands made 3 or 4 hauls +with the Sean, but caught not above a dozen very small fish. By this time +the flood was made, and I imbarqued in the Boats in order to row up the +Lagoon; but in this I was hindred by meeting everywhere with Shoal Water. +As yet we had seen no people, but saw a great deal of Smook up and on the +West side of the Lagoon, which was all too far off for us to go by land, +excepting one; this we went to and found 10 Small fires in a very small +Compass, and some Cockle Shells laying by them, but the people were gone. +On the windward or South side of one of the fires was stuck up a little +Bark about a foot and a half high, and some few pieces lay about in other +places; these we concluded were all the covering they had in the Night, +and many of them, I firmly believe, have not this, but, naked as they +are, sleep in the open air. Tupia, who was with us, observed that they +were Taata Eno's; that is, bad or poor people. The Country is visibly +worse than at the last place we were at; the soil is dry and Sandy, and +the woods are free from underwoods of every kind; here are of the same +sort of Trees as we found in Bottany Harbour, with a few other sorts. One +sort, which is by far the most Numerous sort of any in the Woods, grow +Something like birch; the Bark at first sight looks like birch bark, but +upon examination I found it to be very different, and so I believe is the +wood; but this I could not examine, as having no axe or anything with me +to cut down a Tree. About the Skirts of the Lagoon grows the true +Mangrove, such as are found in the West Indies, and which we have not +seen during the Voyage before; here is likewise a sort of a palm Tree, +which grows on low, barren, sandy places in the South Sea Islands. All, +or most of the same sort, of Land and Water fowl as we saw at Botany +Harbour we saw here; besides these we saw some Bustards, such as we have +in England, one of which we kill'd that weighed 17 1/2 pounds, which +occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bustard Bay (Latitude 24 +degrees 4 minutes, Longitude 208 degrees 22 minutes West); we likewise +saw some black and white Ducks. Here are plenty of small Oysters sticking +to the Rocks, Stones, and Mangrove Trees, and some few other shell fish, +such as large Muscles, Pearl Oysters, Cockels, etc. I measured the +perpendicular height of the last Tide, and found it to be 8 foot above +low water mark, and from the time of low water to-day I found that it +must be high Water at the full and Change of the Moon at 8 o'Clock.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 24th. In the P.M. I was employ'd ashore in the Transactions +before related; at 4 a.m. we weighed with a Gentle breeze at South, and +made sail out of the Bay. In standing out our soundings were from 5 to 15 +fathoms; when in this last Depth we were abreast of the North Point, and +being daylight we discover'd breakers stretching out from it about +North-North-East, 2 or 3 miles; at the Outermost point of them is a Rock +just above Water. In passing these rocks at the distance of 1/2 a mile we +had from 15 to 20 fathoms; being past them, we hauld along shore +West-North-West for the farthest land we had in sight. At Noon we were by +Observation in the Latitude of 23 degrees 52 minutes South; the North +part of Bustard Bay bore South 62 degrees East, distance 10 miles, and +the Northermost land in sight North 60 degrees West. Longitude in 208 +degrees 37 minutes West, distance from the nearest shore 6 Miles; in this +situation had 14 fathoms water.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Capricorn, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 25th. In the P.M. had it calm until 5, when a light breeze sprung +up at South-East, and we steer'd North-West as the land lay until 10, +then brought too, having had all along 14 and 15 fathoms. At 5 A.M. we +made sail; at daylight the Northermost point of the Main bore North 70 +degrees West, and soon after we saw more land making like Islands, +bearing North-West by North; at 9 we were abreast of the point, distant +from it 1 mile; Depth of Water 14 fathoms. I found this point to lay +directly under the Tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason call it by +that Name. Longitude 209 degrees 0 minutes West. It is of a Moderate +height, and looks white and barren, and may be known by some Islands +which lie to the North-West of it, and some small Rocks one League +South-East from it; on the West side of the Cape there appeared to be a +Lagoon. On the 2 Spits which form the Entrance were a great Number of +Pelicans; at least, so I call them. The most northermost land we could +see bore from Cape Capricorn North 24 degrees West, and appeared to be an +Island;* (* Hummocky Island.) but the Main land Trended West by North 1/2 +North, which Course we steer'd, having from 15 to 16 fathoms and from 6 +to 9, a hard sandy bottom. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 23 +degrees 24 minutes South; Cape Capricorn bore South 60 degrees East, +distance 2 Leagues; a small Island North by East 2 Miles. In this +Situation had 9 fathoms at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land, +which is here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are +moderately high and rocky; in land the Country is hilly, and affords but +a very indifferent prospect.* (* Between Bustard Bay and Cape Capricorn +is Port Curtis, in which stands the small town of Gladstone. Cape +Capricorn is the eastern point of Curtis Island, and to the northward is +Keppel Bay, into which falls the Fitzroy River. Up the latter, 35 miles +from the sea, is Rockhampton, the second largest town of Queensland. All +this coast is encumbered with shoals, outside of which Cook had so far +prudently kept. To seaward begins the long chain of islands and reefs +known as the Great Australian Barrier, which stretches up to Torres +Straits. Cook was unaware of their existence, as they were out of sight, +but he became painfully acquainted with them later, where the reefs +approach the land, and make navigation along the coast anxious work; but +he here began to get into difficulties with the shoals which stretch off +the coast itself.)</p> + +<p>Saturday, 26th. In the P.M. light breezes at East-South-East, with which +we stood to the North-West until 4 o'Clock, when it fell calm, and soon +after we Anchored in 12 fathoms. Cape Capricorn bearing South 54 degrees +East, distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land and Islands in a manner all +around us. In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet, +and the flood to set to the Westward and Ebb to the Eastward; which is +quite the reverse to what we found it when at Anchor to the Eastward of +Bustard Bay. At 6 a.m. we weigh'd with the Wind at South, a Gentle +breeze, and stood away to the North-West, between the Outermost range of +Islands* (* The Keppel Islands.) and the Main land, leaving several small +Islands between us and the Latter, which we passed Close by. Our +soundings was a little irregular, from 12 to 4 fathoms, which caused me +to send a Boat ahead to sound. At noon we were about 3 Miles from the +Main, about the same distance from the Islands without us; our Latitude +by Observation was 23 degrees 7 minutes South, and Longitude made from +Cape Capricorn 18 Miles West. The Main land in this Latitude is tolerable +high and Mountainious; and the Islands which lay off it are the most of +them pretty high and of a Small Circuit, and have more the appearance of +barrenness than fertility. We saw smookes a good way in land, which makes +me think there must be a River, Lagoon, or Inlet, into the Country, and +we passed 2 places that had the Appearance of such this morning; but our +Depth of Water at that Time was too little to haul in for them, where I +might expect to meet with less.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 27th. We had not stood on to the Northward quite an hour before +we fell into 3 fathoms, upon which I anchor'd, and Sent away the Master +with 2 Boats to sound the Channell, which lay to Leeward of us between +the Northermost Island and the Main Land, which appear'd to me to be +pretty broad; but I suspected that it was Shoal, and so it was found, for +the Master reported to me upon his return that he found in many places +only 2 1/2 fathoms, and where we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet, which +was not 2 feet more than the Ship drew.* (* This was between Great Keppel +Island and the Main. There is a mass of shoals here.) In the Evening the +wind veer'd to East-North-East, which gave us an opportunity to stretch 3 +or 4 miles back the way we Came before the Wind Shifted to South, and +obliged us again to Anchor in 6 fathoms. At 5 o'Clock in the A.M. I sent +away the Master with 2 Boats to search for a Passage out between the +Islands, while the Ship got under sail. As soon as it was light the +Signal was made by the boats of their having found a Passage, upon which +we hoisted in the Boats, and made sail to the Northward as the land lay; +soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, having still Some small Islands without +us.* (* The ship passed out between Great Keppel Island and North Keppel +Island.) At noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main Land, and by +observation in the Latitude of 22 degrees 53 minutes South, Longitude +made from Cape Capricorn 0 degrees 20 minutes West. At this time the +Northermost point of Land we had in sight bore North-North-West, distance +10 Miles; this point I named Cape Manyfold, from the Number of high Hills +over it; Latitude 22 degrees 43 minutes South; it lies North 20 degrees +West, distant 17 Leagues from Cape Capricorn. Between them the shore +forms a large Bay, which I call'd Keppel Bay, and the Islands which lay +in and Off it are known by the same name; in this Bay is good Anchorage, +where there is a sufficient depth of Water; what refreshment it may +afford for Shipping I know not.* (* As before mentioned, the Fitzroy +River falls into Keppel Bay, and forms a good harbour, though much +encumbered with sand banks.) We caught no fish here, notwithstanding we +were at Anchor; it can hardly be doubted but what it afforded fresh Water +in several places, as both Mainland and Islands are inhabited. We saw +smokes by day and fires in the night upon the Main, and people upon one +of the Islands.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Townshend, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 28th. Winds at South-South-East, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock in +the P.M. we passed Cape Manifold, from which the Land Trends +North-North-West. The land of this Cape is tolerable high, and riseth in +hills directly from the Sea; it may be known by 3 Islands laying off it, +one near the Shore, and the other 2 Eight Miles out at Sea; the one of +these is low and flat, and the other high and round.* (* Peak and Flat +Islands.) At 6 o'Clock we shortned sail and brought too; the Northermost +part of the Main we had in sight bore North-West, and some Islands lying +off it bore North 31 degrees West; our soundings since Noon were from 20 +to 25 fathoms, and in the Night 30 and 34 fathoms. At day light we made +Sail, Cape Manifold bearing South by East, distance 8 Leagues, and the +Islands set last night in the same directions, distance from us 4 Miles. +The farthest point of the Main bore North 67 degrees West, distant 22 +Miles; but we could see several Islands to the Northward of this +direction.* (* The easternmost of the Northumberland Islands.) At 9 +o'Clock we were abreast of the above point, which I named Cape Townshend* +(* Charles Townshend was Chancellor of the Exchequer 1767.) (Latitude 22 +degrees 13 minutes, Longitude 209 degrees 48 minutes West); the land of +this Cape is of a moderate and pretty even height, and is more barren +than woody. Several Islands lay to the Northward of it, 4 or 5 Leagues +out at Sea. 3 or 4 Leagues to the South-East the Shore forms a bay,* (* +Shoalwater Bay, a large inlet.) in the bottom of which there appeared to +be an inlet or Harbour to the Westward of the Coast, and Trends +South-West 1/2 South; and these form a very large Bay, which turns away +to the Eastward, and probably communicates with the Inlet above +mentioned, and by that Means makes the land of the Cape an Island. As +soon as we got round the Cape we hauld our wind to the Westward in order +to get within the Islands which lay scatter'd up and down in this bay in +great number, and extend out to Sea as far as we could see from the +Masthead; how much farther will hardly be in my power to determine; they +are as Various in their height and Circuit as they are numerous.* (* The +Northumberland islands, a very extensive group.) We had not stood long +upon a Wind before we meet with Shoal Water, and was obliged to Tack +about to avoid it; after which I sent a boat ahead, and we bore away West +by North, leaving many small Islands, Rocks, and Shoals between us and +the Main, and a number of Large Islands without us; soundings from 14 to +17 fathoms, Sandy Bottom. A little before noon the boat made the Signal +for meeting with Shoal Water, upon which we hauld close upon a Wind to +the Eastward, but suddenly fell into 3 1/4 fathoms water, upon which we +immediately let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with all sails +standing, and had then 4 fathoms Coarse sandy bottom. We found here a +strong Tide setting to the North-West by West 1/2 West, at the rate of +between 2 and 3 Miles an Hour, which was what Carried us so quickly upon +the Shoal. Our Latitude by Observation was 22 degrees 8 minutes South; +Cape Townshend bore East 16 degrees South, distant 13 Miles, and the +Westermost part of the Main Land in sight West 3/4 North, having a number +of Islands in sight all round us.* (* The ship was on the Donovan Shoal +in Broad Sound Channel.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 29th. Fresh gales between the South-South-East and +East-South-East, Hazey weather, with some showers of rain. In the P.M., +having sounded about the Ship, and found that their was Sufficient Water +for her over the Shoal, we at 3 o'clock weigh'd and made Sail, and stood +to the Westward as the Land lay, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. +At 6 we Anchor'd in 10 fathoms, Sandy bottom, about 2 Miles from the Main +Land, the Westermost part of which bore West-North-West, having still a +Number of Islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 a.m. I sent away +the Master with 2 Boats to sound the Entrance of an inlet, which bore +from us West, distance about 1 League, into which I intended to go with +the Ship to wait a few days, until the Moon increased, and in the +meantime to examine the Country. By such time as we had got the Ship +under Sail the Boats made the Signal for Anchorage, upon which we stood +in with the Ship, and Anchor'd in 5 fathoms, about a League within the +Entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a River running a Good way +inland, as I observed the Tides to flow and Ebb something considerable.* +(* It is in reality a narrow channel which runs into Broad Sound.) I had +some thoughts of laying the Ship a Shore to Clean her bottom. With this +view both the Master and I went to look for a Convenient place for that +purpose, and at the same time to look for fresh Water, not one drop of +which we could find, but met with several places where a Ship might be +laid ashore with safety.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor, Thirsty Sound.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 30th. In the P.M. I went again in search of Fresh Water, but +had no better success than before; wherefore I gave over all thoughts of +laying the Ship a Shore, being resolved to spend as little time as +possible in a place that was likely to afford us no sort of refreshment. +But as I had observed from the Hills the inlet to run a good way in, I +thought this a good time to penetrate into the Country to see a little of +the inland parts. Accordingly I prepared for making that Excursion in the +morning, but the first thing I did was to get upon a pretty high Hill, +which is at the North-West entrance of the inlet, before Sunrise, in +order to take a view of the Sea Coast and Islands, etc., that lay off it, +and to take their bearings, having the Azimuth Compass with me for that +purpose, the Needle of which differ'd from its True position something +very considerable, even above 30 degrees, in some places more, and in +other less, for I try'd it in several places. I found it differ in itself +above 2 points in the space of about 14 feet. The loose stones which lay +upon the Ground had no effect upon the Needle; I therefore concluded that +it must be owing to Iron Ore upon the Hill, visible signs of which +appeared not only here, but in several other places. As soon as I had +done here I proceeded up the inlet. I set out with the first of the +flood, and long before high water got about 8 Leagues up it; its breadth +thus far was from 2 to 4 or 5 Miles upon a South-West by South direction; +but here it spread every way, and formed a Large lake, which communicated +with the Sea to the North-West. I not only saw the Sea in this direction, +but found the tide of flood coming strong in from the North-West. I +likewise observ'd an Arm of this Lake extending to the Eastward, and it +is not at all improbable but what it Communicates with the Sea in the +bottom of the bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Townshend.* (* This +is exactly what it does.) On the South side of the Lake is a ridge of +pretty high hills, which I was desirous of going upon; but as the day was +far spent and high water, I was afraid of being bewilder'd among the +Shoals in the night, which promised to be none of the best, being already +rainy, dirty weather, and therefore I made the best of my way to the +Ship. In this little Excursion I saw only 2 people, and those at a +distance, and are all that we have seen in this place, but we have met +with several fire places, and seen smokes at a distance. This inlet, +which I have named Thirsty Sound, by reason we could find no fresh Water, +lies in the Latitude of 22 degrees 05 minutes South, and Longitude 210 +degrees 24 West; it may be known by a Group of small Islands Laying under +the shore from 2 to 5 Leagues North-West from it.* (* Barren Islands.) +There is likewise another Group of Islands laying right before it between +3 and 4 Leagues out at Sea.* (* Duke Islands.) Over each of the Points +that form the Entrance is a pretty high, round Hill; that on the +North-West is a Peninsula, surrounded by the Sea at high water; the +distance from the one to the other is about 2 Miles bold to both Shores. +Here is good Anchoring in 7, 6, 5, and 4 fathoms water, and very +Convenient places for laying a Ship ashore, where at Spring Tides the +tides doth not rise less than 16 or 18 feet, and flows at full and Change +of the Moon about 11 o'Clock. We met with no fresh water, or any other +kind of refreshments whatever; we saw 2 Turtle, but caught none, nor no +sort of Fish or wild fowl, except a few small land birds. Here are the +same sort of Water Fowl as we saw in Botany Bay, and like them, so shy +that it is hardly possible to get within shott of them. No signs of +Fertility is to be seen upon the Land; the Soil of the up lands is mostly +a hard, redish Clay, and produceth several sorts of Trees, such as we +have seen before, and some others, and clear of all underwoods. All the +low lands are mostly overrun with Mangroves, and at Spring tides +overflow'd by the Sea; and I believe in the rainy Seasons here are large +land floods, as we saw in many places Gullies, which seem'd to have been +made by torrents of Water coming from the Adjacent hills, besides other +Visible signs of the Water having been a Considerable height above the +Common Spring Tides. Dr. Solander and I was upon a rising Ground up the +inlet, which we thought had at one time or another been overflow'd by the +Sea, and if so great part of the Country must at that time been laid +under Water. Up in the lakes, or lagoons, I suppose, are shell fish, on +which the few Natives subsist. We found Oysters sticking to most of the +Rocks upon the Shore, which were so small, as not to be worth the picking +off.* (* Cook was very unfortunate in his landing here. The channel is at +the end of a long headland between two bays, Shoalwater Bay and Broad +Sound, and was a very unlikely place either to find water or get any true +idea of the country.)</p> + +<p>Thursday, 31st. Winds Southerly and South-East; Dark, Hazey weather, with +rain. In the P.M., finding no one inducement to stay longer in this +place, we at 6 a.m. Weighed and put to Sea, and stood to the North-West, +having the Advantage of a fresh breeze at South-South-East. We keept +without the Group of Islands which lay in Shore, and to the North-West of +Thirsty Sound, as there appear'd to be no safe passage between them and +the Main; at the same time we had a number of Islands without us +extending out to Sea as far as we could see; as we run in this direction +our depth of Water was 10, 8 and 9 fathoms.* (* The ship passed between +the Duke Islands and the maze of reefs and islands lying North-West of +Thirsty Sound.) At Noon the North-West point of Thirsty Sound, which I +have named Pier head, bore South 36 degrees East, distant 5 Leagues; the +East point of the other inlet, which Communicates with the former, as I +have before mentioned, bore South by West, distance 2 1/2 Leagues, the +Group of Islands above mentioned laying between us and the point. The +farthest part of the Main in sight, on the other side of the inlet, bore +North-West; our Latitude by Observation was 21 degrees 53 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[June 1770.]</p> + +<p>Friday, June 1st. At 1/2 an hour After Noon, upon the Boat we had ahead +sounding making the Signal for Shoal Water, we hauld our wind to the +North-East, having at that time 7 fathoms; the Next cast 5, and then 3, +upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up. The North-West +point of Thirsty Sound, or Pier Head, bore South-East, distance 6 +Leagues, being Midway between the Islands which lies off the East point +of the Western inlet and 3 Small Islands directly without them,* (* The +shoal is now known as Lake Shoal. The three Islands are the Bedwell +Islands.) it being now the first of the flood which we found to set +North-West by West 1/2 West. After having sounded about the Shoal, on +which we found not quite 3 fathoms, but without it deep water, we got +under Sail, and hauld round the 3 Islands just mentioned, and came to an +Anchor under the Lee of them in 15 fathoms, having at this time dark, +hazey, rainy weather, which continued until 7 o'Clock a.m., at which time +we got again under sail, and stood to the North-West with a fresh breeze +at South-South-East and fair weather, having the Main land in Sight and a +Number of Islands all round us, some of which lay out at Sea as far as we +could See. The Western Inlet before mentioned, known in the Chart by the +Name of Broad Sound, we had now all open. It is at least 9 or 10 Leagues +wide at the Entrance, with several Islands laying in and before, and I +believe Shoals also, for we had very irregular Soundings, from 10 to 5 +and 4 fathoms. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 21 +degrees 29 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Townshend 59 +degrees West. A point of Land, which forms the North-West Entrance into +Broad Sound, bore from us at this Time West, distance 3 Leagues; this +Cape I have named Cape Palmerston* (* Henry Viscount Palmerston was a +Lord of the Admiralty, 1766 to 1778.) (Latitude 21 degrees 27 minutes +South, Longitude 210 degrees 57 minutes West). Between this Cape and Cape +Townshend lies the Bay of Inlets, so named from the Number of Inlets, +Creeks, etc., in it.* (* The name Bay of Inlets has disappeared from the +charts. Cook applied it to the whole mass of bays in this locality, +covering over 60 miles. A look at a modern chart causes amazement that +Cook managed to keep his ship off the ground, as the whole sea in his +track is strewed with dangers.)</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Hillsborough, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 2nd. Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a gentle breeze, +with which we stood to the North-West and North-West by North, as the +land lay, under an easey Sail. Having a boat ahead, found our Soundings +at first were very irregular, from 9 to 4 fathoms; but afterwards +regular, from 9 to 11 fathoms. At 8, being about 2 Leagues from the Main +Land, we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Sandy bottom. Soon after this we found a +Slow Motion of a Tide seting to the Eastward, and rode so until 6, at +which time the tide had risen 11 feet; we now got under Sail, and Stood +away North-North-West as the land lay. From the Observations made on the +tide last Night it is plain that the flood comes from the North-West; +whereas Yesterday and for Several days before we found it to come from +the South-East. This is neither the first nor second time that we have +observed the same thing, and in my Opinion easy accounted for; but this I +shall do in another place. At sun rise we found the Variation to be 6 +degrees 45 minutes East. In steering along shore between the Island and +the Main, at the Distance of 2 Leagues from the Latter, and 3 or 4 from +the former, our soundings were Regular, from 12 to 9 fathoms; but about +11 o'Clock we were again embarrassed with Shoal Water,* (* Blackwood +Shoals.) but got clear without letting go an Anchor; we had at one time +not quite 3 fathoms. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main land, +and about 4 from the Islands without us; our Latitude by Observation was +20 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Palmerston 16 +degrees West; a pretty high Promontory, which I named Cape Hillsborough,* +(* Earl of Hillsborough was the First Secretary of State for the +Colonies, and President of the Board of Trade when the Endeavour sailed.) +bore West 1/2 North, distant 7 Miles. The Main Land is here pretty much +diversified with Mountains, Hills, plains, and Vallies, and seem'd to be +tollerably Cloathed with Wood and Verdure. These Islands, which lay +Parrallel with the Coast, and from 5 to 8 or 9 Leagues off, are of +Various Extent, both for height and Circuit; hardly any Exceeds 5 Leagues +in Circuit, and many again are very small.* (* The Cumberland Islands. +They stretch along the coast for 60 miles.) Besides the Chain of Islands, +which lay at a distance from the Coast, there are other Small Ones laying +under the Land. Some few smokes were seen on the Main land.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 3rd. Winds between the South by East and South-East. A Gentle +breeze and Clear weather. In the P.M. we steer'd along shore North-West +1/2 West, at the distance of 2 Leagues from the Main, having 9 and 10 +fathoms regular soundings. At sun set the furthest point of the Main Land +that we could distinguish as such bore North 48 degrees West; to the +Northward of this lay some high land, which I took to be an Island, the +North West point of which bore North 41 degrees West; but as I was not +sure that there was a passage this way, we at 8 came to an Anchor in 10 +fathoms, muddy bottom. 2 hours after this we had a tide setting to the +Northward, and at 2 o'clock it had fallen 9 Feet since the time we +Anchored. After this the Tide began to rise, and the flood came from the +Northward, which was from the Islands out at Sea, and plainly indicated +that there was no passage to the North-West; but as this did not appear +at day light when we got under Sail, and stood away to the North-West +until 8, at this time we discover'd low land, quite a Cross what we took +for an Opening between the Main and the Islands, which proved to be a Bay +about 5 or 6 Leagues deep. Upon this we hauld our wind to the Eastward +round the Northermost point of the Bay, which bore from us at this time +North-East by North, distance 4 Leagues. From this point we found the +Main land trend away North by West 1/2 West, and a Strait or Passage +between it and a Large Island* (* Whitsunday Island.) or Islands laying +in a Parrallel direction with the Coast; this passage we Stood into, +having the Tide of Ebb in our favour. At Noon we were just within the +Entrance, and by observation in the Latitude of 20 degrees 26 minutes +South; Cape Hillsborough bore South by East, distant 10 Leagues, and the +North point of the Bay before mentioned bore South 19 degrees West, +distance 4 Miles. This point I have named Cape Conway* (* General H.S. +Conway was Secretary of State 1765 to 1768.) (Latitude 20 degrees 30 +minutes, Longitude 211 degrees 28 minutes), and the bay, Repulse Bay, +which is formed by these 2 Capes. The greatest and least depth of Water +we found in it was 13 and 8 fathoms; every where safe Anchoring, and I +believe, was it properly examined, there would be found some good Harbour +in it, especIally on the North Side within Cape Conway, for just within +the Cape lay 2 or 3 Small Islands, which alone would shelter that side of +the Bay from the South-East and Southerly winds, which seem to be the +prevailing or Trade Winds. Among the many islands that lay upon this +Coast there is one more Remarkable than the rest,* (* Probably Blacksmith +Island.) being of a Small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies East by +South, 10 Miles from Cape Conway at the South end of the Passage above +mention'd.</p> + +<p>[In Whitsunday Passage, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 4th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a Gentle breeze +and Clear weather. In the P.M. Steerd thro' the passage* (* Whitsunday +Passage. The aspect of the shores is very pleasing.) which we found from +3 to 6 or 7 Miles broad, and 8 or 9 Leagues in length, North by West 1/2 +West and South by East 1/2 East. It is form'd by the Main on the West, +and by Islands on the East, one of which is at least 5 Leagues in length. +Our Depth of Water in running thro' was between 25 and 20 fathoms; +everywhere good Anchorage; indeed the whole passage is one Continued safe +Harbour, besides a Number of small Bays and Coves on each side, where +ships might lay as it where in a Bason; at least so it appear'd to me, +for I did not wait to Examine it, as having been in Port so lately, and +being unwilling to loose the benefit of a light Moon. The land, both on +the Main and Islands, especially on the former, is Tolerably high, and +distinguished by Hills and Vallies, which are diversified with Woods and +Lawns that looked green and pleasant. On a Sandy beach upon one of the +Islands we saw 2 people and a Canoe, with an outrigger, which appeared to +be both Larger and differently built to any we have seen upon the Coast. +At 6 we were nearly the length of the North end of the Passage; the North +Westermost point of the Main in sight bore North 54 degrees West, and the +North end of the Island North-North-East, having an open Sea between +these 2 points. [This passage I have named Whitsundays Passage, as it was +discover'd on the day the Church commemorates that Festival, and the +Isles which form it Cumberland Isles, in honour of His Royal Highness the +Duke of Cumberland.* (* Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland, was a +younger brother of George III.)] We keept under an Easey Sail and the +Lead going all Night, having 21, 22, and 23 fathoms, at the distance of 3 +Leagues from the land. At daylight A.M. we were abreast of the point +above mentioned, which is a lofty promontory; that I named Cape +Gloucester* (* William Henry, Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh, a younger +brother of George III.) (Latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes South, Longitude +211 degrees 54 minutes West). It may be known by an Island which lies out +at Sea North by West 1/2 West, 5 or 6 Leagues from it; this I called +Holbourn Isle.* (* Admiral Francis Holbourne commanded the fleet in North +America in which Cook served in 1757.) There are also Islands laying +under the Land between it and Whitsundays Passage. On the West side of +the Cape the Land Trends away South-West and South-South-West, and forms +a deep bay. The Sand in the bottom of this bay I could but just see from +the Masthead; it is very low, and is a Continuation of the same low land +as is at the bottom of Repulse Bay. Without Waiting to look into this +bay, which I called Edgcumbe Bay,* (* In Port Denison, on the western +side of Edgcumbe Bay, is the rising town of Bowen, the port of an +agricultural district. There is good coal in the vicinity. Captain G. +Edgcumbe commanded the Lancaster in the fleet in North America in 1758 in +which Cook served. Afterwards Earl of Mount Edgcumbe.) we continued our +Course to the Westward for the Westermost land we had in sight which bore +from us West by North 1/2 North, and appeared very high. At Noon we were +about 3 Leagues from the Land, and by observation in the Latitude of 19 +degrees 47 minutes South, Cape Gloucester bearing South 63 degrees East, +distant 7 1/2 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th. Winds between the South and East, a Gentle breeze, and +Serene weather. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of the Western point of Land +above mentioned, distant from it 3 Miles, which I have named Cape +Upstart, because being surrounded with low land it starts or rises up +singley at the first making of it (Latitude 19 degrees 39 minutes South, +Longitude 212 degrees 32 minutes West); it lies West-North-West 14 +Leagues from Cape Gloucester, and is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 +Leagues; but it is not so much of a Promontory as it appears to be, +because on each side of it near the Sea is very low land, which is not to +be seen unless you are pretty well in with the Shore. Inland are some +Tolerable high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, affords but a +very barren prospect. Having past this Cape, we continued standing to the +West-North-West as the land lay, under an easey Sail, having from 16 to +10 fathoms, until 2 o'Clock a.m., when we fell into 7 fathoms, upon which +we hauled our wind to the Northward, judging ourselves to be very near +the land; as so we found, for at daylight we were little more than 2 +Leagues off. What deceived us was the Lowness of the land, which is but +very little higher than the Surface of the Sea, but in the Country were +some hills. At noon we were in 15 fathoms Water, and about 4 Leagues from +the land. Our Latitude by Observation was 19 degrees 12 minutes South; +Cape Upstart bore 38 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 12 Leagues. Course +and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon North 48 degrees 45 minutes, 53 +Miles. At and before Noon some very large smokes were Seen rise up out of +the low land. At sun rise I found the Variation to be 5 degrees 35 +minutes Easterly; at sun set last night the same Needle gave near 9 +degrees. This being Close under Cape Upstart, I judged that it was owing +to Iron ore or other Magnetical Matter Lodged in the Earth.</p> + +<p>[Off Cleveland Bay, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th. Light Airs at East-South-East, with which we Steer'd +West-North-West as the Land now lay; Depth of Water 12 and 14 fathoms. At +Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 19 degrees 1 minute South, +Longitude made from Cape Gloucester 1 degree 30 minutes West; Course and +distance saild since Yesterday noon West-North-West, 28 Miles. In this +situation we had the Mouth of a Bay all open extending from South 1/2 +East to South-West 1/2 South, distance 2 Leagues. This bay, which I named +Cleveland Bay,* (* In Cleveland Bay is Townsville, the largest town in +Northern Queensland. Population 12,000.) appeared to be about 5 or 6 +Miles in Extent every way. The East point I named Cape Cleveland, and the +West, Magnetical Head or Island, as it had much the appearance of an +Island; and the Compass did not traverse well when near it. They are both +Tolerable high, and so is the Main Land within them, and the whole +appeared to have the most rugged, rocky, and barren Surface of any we +have yet seen. However, it is not without inhabitants, as we saw smoke in +several places in the bottom of the bay. The Northermost land we had in +sight at this time bore North-West; this we took to be an Island or +Islands, for we could not trace the Main land farther than West by North.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. Light Airs between the South and East, with which we +steer'd West-North-West, keeping the Main land on board, the outermost +part of which at sun set bore from us West by North; but without this lay +high land, which we took to be Islands. At daylight A.M. we were the +Length of the Eastern part of this Land, which we found to Consist of a +Group of Islands* (* Palm Islands.) laying about 5 Leagues from the Main. +We being at this time between the 2, we continued advancing Slowly to the +North-West until noon, at which time we were by observation in the +Latitude of 18 degrees 49 minutes, and about 5 Leagues from the Main +land, the North-West part of which bore from us North by West 1/2 West, +the Island extending from North to East; distance of the nearest 2 Miles. +Cape Cleveland bore South 50 degrees East, distant 18 Leagues. Our +Soundings in the Course of this day's Sail were from 14 to 11 fathoms.</p> + +<p>Friday, 8th. Winds at South-South-East and South; first part light Airs, +the remainder a Gentle breeze. In the P.M. we saw several large smokes +upon the Main, some people, Canoes, and, as we thought, Cocoa Nut Trees +upon one of the Islands; and, as a few of these Nutts would have been +very acceptable to us at this Time, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, with +whom went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see what was to be got. In the +Meantime we keept Standing in for the Island with the Ship. At 7 they +returned on board, having met with Nothing worth Observing. The Trees we +saw were a small kind of Cabbage Palms. They heard some of the Natives as +they were putting off from the Shore, but saw none. After the Boat was +hoisted in we stood away North by West for the Northermost land we had in +sight, which we were abreast of at 3 o'Clock in the Morning, having +passed all the Islands 3 or 4 hours before. This point I have named Point +Hillock,* (* Point Hillock is the east point of Hinchinbrook Island, +which is separated from the main by a narrow and tortuous channel.) on +account of its Figure. The Land of this point is Tolerable high, and may +be known by a round Hillock or rock that appears to be detached from the +point, but I believe it joins to it. Between this Cape and Cape Cleveland +the shore forms a Large bay, which I named Hallifax bay;* (* The Earl of +Halifax was Secretary of State 1763 to 1765.) before it lay the Groups of +Islands before mentioned, and some others nearer the Shore. These Islands +shelter the Bay in a manner from all Winds, in which is good Anchorage. +The land near the Shore in the bottom of the bay is very low and Woody; +but a little way back in the Country is a continued ridge of high land, +which appear'd to be barren and rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we +continued standing to the North-North-West as the land Trended, having +the Advantage of a light Moon. At 6 a.m. we were abreast of a point of +Land which lies North by West 1/2 West, 11 Miles from Point Hillick; the +Land between them is very high, and of a craggy, barren surface. This +point I named Cape Sandwich;* (* Earl of Sandwich was First Lord of the +Admiralty 1763.) it may not only be known by the high, craggy land over +it, but by a small Island which lies East one Mile from it, and some +others about 2 Leagues to the Northward of it. From Cape Sandwich the +Land trends West, and afterwards North, and forms a fine, Large Bay, +which I called Rockingham Bay;* (* The Marquis of Rockingham was Prime +Minister 1765 to 1766.) it is well Shelter'd, and affords good Anchorage; +at least, so it appear'd to me, for having met with so little +encouragement by going ashore that I would not wait to land or examine it +farther, but continued to range along Shore to the Northward for a parcel +of Small Islands* (* The Family Islands.) laying off the Northern point +of the Bay, and, finding a Channel of a Mile broad between the 3 +Outermost and those nearer the Shore, we pushed thro'. While we did this +we saw on one of the nearest Islands a Number of the Natives collected +together, who seem'd to look very attentively upon the Ship; they were +quite naked, and of a very Dark Colour, with short hair. At noon we were +by observation in the Latitude of 17 degrees 59 minutes, and abreast of +the North point of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us West 2 Miles. This +boundry of the Bay is form'd by a Tolerable high Island, known in the +Chart by the Name of Dunk Isle; it lays so near the Shore as not to be +distinguished from it unless you are well in with the Land. At this time +we were in the Longitude of 213 degrees 57 minutes. Cape Sandwich bore +South by East 1/2 East, distant 19 Miles, and the northermost land in +sight North 1/2 West. Our depth of Water in the Course of this day's Sail +was not more than 16, nor less than 7, fathoms.* (* About here the Great +Barrier Reefs begin to close in on the land. Cook kept so close to the +latter that he was unconscious as yet of their existence; but he was soon +to find them.)</p> + +<p>[Anchored near Cape Grafton, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 9th. Winds between the South and South-East, a Gentle breeze, +and Clear weather, with which we steer'd North by West as the land lay, +the northern extream of which at sunset bore North 25 degrees West. We +keept on our Course under an Easey sail all night, having from 12 to 16 +fathoms, at the distance of about 3 or 4 Leagues from the Land. At 6 a.m. +we were abreast of Some small Islands, which we called Frankland Isles, +that lay about 2 Leagues from the Mainland, the Northern Point of which +in sight bore North by West 1/2 West; but this we afterwards found to be +an Island,* (* Fitzroy Island.) tolerable high, and about 4 Miles in +Circuit. It lies about 2 Miles from the Point on the Main between which +we went with the ship, and were in the Middle of the Channell at Noon, +and by observation in the Latitude of 16 degrees 55 minutes, where we had +20 fathoms of water. The point of land we were now abreast of I called +Cape Grafton* (* The Duke of Grafton was Prime Minister when Cook +sailed.) (Latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 11 +minutes West); it is Tolerable high, and so is the whole Coast for 20 +Leagues to the southward, and hath a very rocky surface, which is thinly +cover'd with wood. In the night we saw several fires along shore, and a +little before noon some people.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 10th. After hauling round Cape Grafton we found the land trend +away North-West by West; 3 Miles to the Westward of the Cape is a Bay, +wherein we Anchor'd, about 2 Miles from the Shore, in 4 fathoms, owsey +bottom. The East point of the Bay bore South 74 degrees East, the West +point South 83 degrees West, and a Low green woody Island laying in the +Offing bore North 35 degrees East. The Island lies North by East 1/2 +East, distance 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Grafton, and is known in the +Chart by the Name of Green Island. As soon as the Ship was brought to an +Anchor I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; the +first thing I did was to look for fresh Water, and with that View rowed +out towards the Cape, because in the bottom of the bay was low Mangrove +land, and little probability of meeting with any there. But the way I +went I found 2 Small streams, which were difficult to get at on account +of the Surf and rocks upon the Shore. As we came round the Cape we saw, +in a sandy Cove, a small stream of Water run over the beach; but here I +did not go in the boat because I found that it would not be Easey to +land. We hardly advanced anything into the Country, it being here hilly, +which were steep and rocky, and we had not time to Visit the Low lands, +and therefore met with nothing remarkable. My intention was to have +stay'd here at least one day, to have looked into the Country had we met +with fresh water convenient, or any other Refreshment; but as we did not, +I thought it would be only spending of time, and loosing as much of a +light Moon to little purpose, and therefore at 12 o'Clock at night we +weighed and stood away to the North-West, having at this time but little +wind, attended with Showers of rain.* (* In the next bay west of where +Cook anchored is Cairns, a small but rising town in the centre of a +sugar-growing district.) At 4 the breeze freshned at South by East, with +fair weather; we continued steering North-North-West 1/2 West as the Land +lay, having 10, 12, and 14 fathoms, at a distance of 3 Leagues from the +Land. At 11 we hauld off North, in order to get without a Small Low +Island* (* Low Isles. There is now a lighthouse on them.) which lay about +2 Leagues from the Main; it being about high Water, about the time we +passed it, great part of it lay under water. About 3 Leagues to the North +Westward of this Island, close under the Main land, is another Island,* +(* Snapper Island.) Tolerable high, which bore from us at Noon North 55 +degrees West, distant 7 or 8 Miles; we being at this time in the Latitude +of 16 degrees 20 minutes South, Cape Grafton bore South 29 degrees East, +distant 40 Miles, and the Northermost point of Land in Sight North 20 +degrees West, and in this Situation had 15 fathoms Water. The Shore +between Cape Grafton and the above Northern point forms a large but not +very deep Bay, which I named Trinity Bay, after the day on which it was +discover'd; the North point Cape Tribulation, because here began all our +Troubles. Latitude 16 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 39 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>[The Ship Aground on Endeavour Reef.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 11th. Wind at East-South-East, with which we steer'd along shore +North by West at the distance of 3 or 4 Leagues off, having from 14 to 10 +and 12 fathoms water. Saw 2 Small Islands in the Offing, which lay in the +Latitude of 16 degrees 0 minutes South, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the +Main. At 6 the Northermost land in sight bore North by West 1/2 West, and +2 low, woody Islands,* (* Hope Islands.) which some took to be rocks +above Water, bore North 1/2 West. At this time we shortened Sail, and +hauld off shore East-North-East and North-East by East, close upon a +Wind. My intention was to stretch off all Night as well to avoid the +danger we saw ahead as to see if any Islands lay in the Offing, +especially as we now begun to draw near the Latitude of those discover'd +by Quiros, which some Geographers, for what reason I know not, have +thought proper to Tack to this land. Having the advantage of a fine +breeze of wind, and a clear Moon light Night in standing off from 6 until +near 9 o Clock, we deepned our Water from 14 to 21 fathoms, when all at +once we fell into 12, 10 and 8 fathoms. At this time I had everybody at +their Stations to put about and come to an Anchor; but in this I was not +so fortunate, for meeting again with Deep Water, I thought there could be +no danger in standing on.* (* The ship passed just northward of +Pickersgill Reef.) Before 10 o'Clock we had 20 and 21 fathoms, and +Continued in that depth until a few minutes before 11, when we had 17, +and before the Man at the Lead could heave another cast, the Ship Struck +and stuck fast. Immediately upon this we took in all our Sails, hoisted +out the Boats and Sounded round the Ship, and found that we had got upon +the South-East Edge of a reef of Coral Rocks, having in some places round +the Ship 3 and 4 fathoms Water, and in other places not quite as many +feet, and about a Ship's length from us on the starboard side (the Ship +laying with her Head to the North-East) were 8, 10, and 12 fathoms. As +soon as the Long boat was out we struck Yards and Topmast, and carried +out the Stream Anchor on our Starboard bow, got the Coasting Anchor and +Cable into the Boat, and were going to carry it out in the same way; but +upon my sounding the 2nd time round the Ship I found the most water a +Stern, and therefore had this Anchor carried out upon the Starboard +Quarter, and hove upon it a very great Strain; which was to no purpose, +the Ship being quite fast, upon which we went to work to lighten her as +fast as possible, which seem'd to be the only means we had left to get +her off. As we went ashore about the Top of High Water we not only +started water, but threw overboard our Guns, Iron and Stone Ballast, +Casks, Hoop Staves, Oil Jarrs, decay'd Stores, etc.; many of these last +Articles lay in the way at coming at Heavier. All this time the Ship made +little or no Water. At 11 a.m., being high Water as we thought, we try'd +to heave her off without Success, she not being afloat by a foot or more, +notwithstanding by this time we had thrown overboard 40 or 50 Tuns +weight. As this was not found sufficient we continued to Lighten her by +every method we could think off; as the Tide fell the ship began to make +Water as much as two pumps could free: at Noon she lay with 3 or 4 +Streakes heel to Starboard; Latitude observed 15 degrees 45 minutes +South.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 12th. Fortunately we had little wind, fine weather, and a smooth +Sea, all this 24 Hours, which in the P.M. gave us an Opportunity to carry +out the 2 Bower Anchors, one on the Starboard Quarter, and the other +right a Stern, got Blocks and Tackles upon the Cables, brought the falls +in abaft and hove taught. By this time it was 5 o'Clock p.m.; the tide we +observed now begun to rise, and the leak increased upon us, which obliged +us to set the 3rd Pump to work, as we should have done the 4th also, but +could not make it work. At 9 the Ship righted, and the Leak gain'd upon +the Pumps considerably. This was an alarming and, I may say, terrible +circumstance, and threatened immediate destruction to us. However, I +resolv'd to risque all, and heave her off in case it was practical, and +accordingly turn'd as many hands to the Capstan and Windlass as could be +spared from the Pumps; and about 20 Minutes past 10 o'Clock the Ship +floated, and we hove her into Deep Water, having at this time 3 feet 9 +Inches Water in the hold. This done I sent the Long boat to take up the +Stream Anchor, got the Anchor, but lost the Cable among the Rocks; after +this turn'd all hands to the Pumps, the Leak increasing upon us.</p> + +<p>A mistake soon after hapned, which for the first time caused fear to +approach upon every man in the Ship. The man that attended the well took +the Depth of water above the Ceiling; he, being relieved by another who +did not know in what manner the former had sounded, took the Depth of +water from the outside plank, the difference being 16 or 18 inches, and +made it appear that the leak had gained this upon the pumps in a short +time. This mistake was no sooner cleared up than it acted upon every man +like a Charm; they redoubled their vigour, insomuch that before 8 o'clock +in the morning they gained considerably upon the leak.* (* The +circumstance related in this paragraph is from the Admiralty copy.) We +now hove up the Best Bower, but found it impossible to save the small +Bower, so cut it away at a whole Cable; got up the Fore topmast and +Foreyard, warped the Ship to the South-East, and at 11 got under sail, +and stood in for the land, with a light breeze at East-South-East. Some +hands employ'd sewing Oakham, Wool, etc., into a Lower Steering sail to +fother the Ship; others employ'd at the Pumps, which still gain'd upon +the Leak.</p> + +<p>[Fothering the Ship.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 13th. In the P.M. had light Airs at East-South-East, with +which we keept edging in for the Land. Got up the Maintopmast and +Mainyard, and having got the Sail ready for fothering of the Ship, we put +it over under the Starboard Fore Chains, where we suspected the Ship had +suffer'd most, and soon after the Leak decreased, so as to be keept clear +with one Pump with ease; this fortunate circumstance gave new life to +every one on board.</p> + +<p>It is much easier to conceive than to discribe the satisfaction felt by +everybody on this occasion. But a few minutes before our utmost Wishes +were to get hold of some place upon the Main, or an island, to run the +Ship ashore, where out of her Materials we might build a Vessel to carry +us to the East Indies; no sooner were we made sencible that the outward +application to the Ship's bottom had taken effect, than the field of +every Man's hopes inlarged, so that we thought of nothing but ranging +along Shore in search of a Harbour, when we could repair the Damages we +had sustained.* (* The foregoing paragraph is from the Admiralty copy. +The situation was indeed sufficiently awkward. When it is considered that +the coast was wholly unknown, the natives decidedly hostile, the land +unproductive of any means of subsistence, and the distance to the nearest +Dutch settlements, even if a passage should be found south of New Guinea, +1500 miles, there was ample cause for apprehension if they could not save +the ship. Knowing what we now know, that all off this coast is a +continuous line of reefs and shoals, Cook's action in standing off might +seem rash. But he knew nothing of this. There was a moon; he reduced sail +to double reefed topsails with a light wind, as the log tells us, and +with the cumbrous hempen cables of the day, and the imperfect means of +heaving up the anchor, he was desirous of saving his men unnecessary +labour. Cook was puzzled that the next tide did not, after lightening the +ship, take him off; but it is now known that on this coast it is only +every alternate tide that rises to a full height, and as he got ashore +nearly at the top of the higher of the two waters he had to wait +twenty-four hours until he got a similar rise. Lucky was it for them that +the wind was light. Usually at this season the trade wind is strong, and +raises a considerable sea, even inside the Barrier. Hawkesworth or Banks +makes the proposition to fother the ship emanate from Mr. Monkhouse; but +it is scarcely to be supposed that such a perfect seaman as Cook was not +familiar with this operation, and he merely says that as Mr. Monkhouse +had seen it done, he confided to him the superintendence of it, as of +course the Captain had at such a time many other things to do than stand +over the men preparing the sail. In 1886 the people of Cooktown were +anxious to recover the brass guns of the Endeavour which were thrown +overboard, in order to place them as a memento in their town; but they +could not be found, which is not altogether surprising.) In justice to +the Ship's Company, I must say that no men ever behaved better than they +have done on this occasion; animated by the behaviour of every Gentleman +on board, every man seem'd to have a just sence of the Danger we were in, +and exerted himself to the very utmost. The Ledge of Rocks, or Shoal, we +have been upon, lies in the Latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes, and about +6 or 7 Leagues from the Main land; but this is not the only Shoal that +lay upon this part of the Coast, especially to the Northward, and one +which we saw to the Southward, the tail of which we passed over when we +had the uneven Soundings 2 hours before we Struck. A part of this Shoal +is always above Water, and looks to be white Sand; part of the one we +were upon was dry at low Water, and in that place consists of Sand and +stones, but every where else Coral Rocks. At 6 we Anchored in 17 fathoms, +about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, and one from the Shoal. At this time +the Ship made about 15 Inches Water per hour. At 6 a.m. weigh'd and stood +to the North-West, edging in for the land, having a Gentle breeze at +South-South-East. At 9 we past close without 2 small low Islands, laying +in the Latitude of 15 degrees 41 minutes, and about 4 Leagues from the +Main; I have named them Hope Islands, because we were always in hopes of +being able to reach these Islands. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from +the Land, and in the Latitude of 15 degrees 37 minutes South; the +Northermost part of the Main in sight bore North 30 degrees West, and the +above Islands extending from South 30 degrees East to South 40 degrees +East. In this situation had 12 fathoms water and several sandbanks +without us. The Leak now decreaseth, but for fear it should break out +again we got the Sail ready fill'd for fothering; the manner this is done +is thus: We Mix Oacham and Wool together (but Oacham alone would do), and +chop it up Small, and then stick it loosely by handfulls all over the +Sail, and throw over it Sheep dung or other filth. Horse Dung for this +purpose is the best. The Sail thus prepared is hauld under the Ship's +bottom by ropes, and if the place of the Leak is uncertain, it must be +hauld from one part of her bottom to another until one finds the place +where it takes effect. While the Sail is under the Ship the Oacham, etc., +is washed off, and part of it carried along with the water into the Leak, +and in part stops up the hole. Mr. Monkhouse, one of my Midshipmen, was +once in a Merchant Ship which Sprung a Leak, and made 48 Inches Water per +hour; but by this means was brought home from Virginia to London with +only her proper crew; to him I gave the direction of this, who executed +it very much to my satisfaction.</p> + +<p>[In Endeavour River, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 14th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at South-East by East. Sent the +Master, with 2 Boats as well, to sound ahead of the Ship, as to look out +for a Harbour where we could repair our defects, and put the Ship on a +proper Trim, both of which she now very much wanted. At 3 saw an Opening +that had the appearance of a Harbour; stood off and on while the Boats +were examining it, who found that there was not a sufficient depth of +Water for the Ship. By this time it was almost sun set, and seeing many +shoals about us we Anchored in 4 fathoms about 2 miles from the Shore, +the Main land extending from North 1/2 East to South by East 1/2 East. At +8 o'clock the Pinnace, in which was one of the Mates, return'd on board, +and reported that they had found a good Harbour* (* Cook Harbour, +Endeavour River.) about 2 Leagues to leeward. In consequence of this +information we, at 6 a.m., weigh'd and run down to it, first sending 2 +Boats ahead to lay upon the Shoals that lay in our way; and +notwithstanding this precaution, we were once in 3 fathoms with the Ship. +Having pass'd these Shoals, the Boats were sent to lay in the Channell +leading into the Harbour. By this time it begun to blow in so much that +the Ship would not work, having missed stays Twice; and being entangled +among Shoals, I was afraid of being drove to Leeward before the Boats +could place themselves, and therefore Anchoredd in 4 fathoms about a Mile +from the Shore, and then made the Signal for the Boats to come on board, +after which I went myself and Buoy'd the Channell, which I found very +narrow, and the Harbour much smaller than I had been told, but very +convenient for our Purpose. At Noon Latitude observed 15 degrees 26 +minutes South. [Note. This day I restor'd Mr. Magra to his Duty, as I did +not find him guilty of the crimes laid to his charge.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 15th. A fresh Gale at South-East and Cloudy weather, attended +with Showers of Rain. In the Night, as it blow'd too fresh to break the +Ship loose to run into the Harbour, we got down the Topgallant yards, +unbent the Mainsail, and some of the Small sails; got down the +Foretopgallant mast, and the Jibb Boom and Spritsailyard in, intending to +lighten the Ship Forward as much as possible, in order to lay her ashore +to come at the Leak.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 16th. Strong Gales at South-East, and Cloudy, hazey weather, +with Showers of Rain. At 6 o'Clock in the A.M. it moderated a little, and +we hove short, intending to get under sail, but was obliged to desist, +and veer away again; some people were seen ashore to-day.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 17th. Most part strong Gales at South-East, with some heavy +showers of rain in the P.M. At 6 a.m., being pretty moderate, we weigh'd +and run into the Harbour, in doing of which we run the Ship ashore Twice. +The first time she went off without much Trouble, but the Second time she +Stuck fast; but this was of no consequence any farther than giving us a +little trouble, and was no more than what I expected as we had the wind. +While the Ship lay fast we got down the Foreyard, Foretopmast, booms, +etc., overboard, and made a raft of them alongside.</p> + +<p>Monday, 18th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with Showers of Rain. At 1 p.m. the +Ship floated, and we warped her into the Harbour, and moor'd her +alongside of a Steep Beach on the South side; got the Anchors, Cables, +and all the Hawsers ashore. In the A.M. made a Stage from the Ship to the +Shore, Erected 2 Tents, one for the Sick, and the other for the Stores +and Provisions; Landed all the empty Casks and part of the Provisions, +and sent a boat to haul the Sean, which return'd without Success.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 19th. Fresh Gales at South-East and Cloudy weather, with +frequent showers of Rain. P.M., landed all the Provisions and Part of the +Stores; got the Sick ashore, which amounted, at this time, to 8 or 9, +afflicted with different disorders, but none very dangerously ill. This +afternoon I went upon one of the highest Hills over the Harbour, from +which I had a perfect View of the inlet or River, and adjacent country, +which afforded but a very indifferent prospect. The Low lands near the +River is all over run with Mangroves, among which the salt water flows +every tide, and the high land appear'd to be barren and Stoney. A.M., got +the 4 remaining Guns out of the hold, and mounted them on the Quarter +Deck; got a spare Anchor and Stock ashore, and the remaining part of the +Stores and ballast that were in the Hold; set up the Forge, and set the +Armourer and his Mate to work to make Nails, etc., to repair the Ship.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze, Fore and Middle +parts rainy, the Latter fair. This day got out all the Officers' stores +and the ground Tier of Water, having now nothing in the Fore and Main +Hold But the Coals and a little Stone ballast.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 21st. P.M., landed the Powder, got out the stone ballast, wood, +etc., which brought the Ship's Draught of water to 8 feet 10 inches +Forward, and 13 feet abaft. This I thought, by trimming the Coals aft, +would be sufficient, as I find the Tides will rise and fall upon a +Perpendicular 8 feet at Spring tides; but after the Coals was trimm'd +away from over the Leak we Could hear the Water come Gushing in a little +abaft the Foremast about 3 feet from her Keel. This determin'd me to +clear the hold intirely; accordingly very early in the Morning we went to +work to get out the Coals, which was Employment for all hands.</p> + +<p>[Ship Beached in Endeavour River.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 22nd. Winds at South-East, fair weather. At 4 p.m., having got +out most of the Coals, cast loose the Ship's moorings, and warped her a +little higher up the Harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay her +ashore to stop the Leak; draught of water Forward 7 feet 9 inches and +abaft 13 feet 6 inches. At 8, being high water, hauld her bow close +ashore, but Keept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of Neaping her,* +(* I.e., Having her so far on shore that they could not heave her off at +Neap tide.) and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the +ground as possible.* (* The town of Cooktown now stands where the +Endeavour was beached, and the (as near as can be judged) exact spot is +marked by a monument.) At 2 a.m. the Tide left her, which gave us an +Opportunity to Examine the Leak, which we found to be at her Floor Heads, +a little before the Starboard Fore Chains; here the Rocks had made their +way thro' 4 planks, quite to, and even into the Timbers, and wounded 3 +more. The manner these planks were damaged--or cut out, as I may say--is +hardly credible; scarce a Splinter was to be seen, but the whole was cut +away as if it had been done by the Hands of Man with a blunt-edge Tool. +Fortunately for us the Timbers in this place were very close; other wise +it would have been impossible to have saved the Ship, and even as it was +it appeared very extraordinary that she made no more water than what she +did. A large peice of Coral rock was sticking in one Hole, and several +peices of the Fothering, small stones, etc., had made its way in, and +lodged between the Timbers, which had stopped the Water from forcing its +way in in great Quantities. Part of the Sheathing was gone from under the +Larboard bow, part of the False Kiel was gone, and the remainder in such +a Shatter'd Condition that we should be much better off if it was gone +also; her Forefoot and some part of her Main Kiel was also damaged, but +not Materially. What damage she may have received abaft we could not see, +but believe not much, as the Ship makes but little water, while the Tide +Keeps below the Leak forward. At 9 the Carpenters went to work upon the +Ship, while the Armourers were buisy making Bolts, Nails, etc.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 23rd. Winds South Easterly, a fresh Gale and fair weather. +Carpenters employed Shifting the Damaged planks as long as the tide would +permit them to work. At low water P.M. we examined the Ship's bottom +under the Starboard side, she being dry as far aft as the After-part of +the Fore Chains; we could not find that she had received any other damage +on this side but what has been mentioned. In the morning I sent 3 Men +into the Country to shoot Pidgeons, as some of these birds had been seen +flying about; in the evening they return'd with about 1/2 a Dozen. One of +the Men saw an Animal something less than a greyhound; it was of a Mouse +Colour, very slender made, and swift of Foot.* (* Kangaroo.) A.M., I sent +a Boat to haul the Sean, who return'd at noon, having made 3 Hauls and +caught only 3 fish; and yet we see them in plenty Jumping about the +harbour, but can find no method of catching them.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 24th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M., the Carpenters +finished the Starboard side, and at 9 heeld the Ship the other way, and +hauld her off about 2 feet for fear of Neaping. In the A.M. they went to +work repairing the Sheathing under the Larboard bow, where we found 2 +planks cut about half thro'. Early in the morning I sent a party of Men +into the Country under the direction of Lieutenant Gore to seek for +refreshments; they return'd about noon with a few Palm Cabbages and a +Bunch or 2 of wild Plantains; these last were much Smaller than any I had +ever seen, and the Pulp full of small Stones; otherwise they were well +tasted. I saw myself this morning, a little way from the Ship, one of the +Animals before spoke off; it was of a light mouse Colour and the full +size of a Grey Hound, and shaped in every respect like one, with a long +tail, which it carried like a Grey hound; in short, I should have taken +it for a wild dog but for its walking or running, in which it jump'd like +a Hare or Deer. Another of them was seen to-day by some of our people, +who saw the first; they described them as having very small Legs, and the +print of the Feet like that of a Goat; but this I could not see myself +because the ground the one I saw was upon was too hard, and the length of +the Grass hindered my seeing its legs.* (* These kangaroos were the first +seen by Europeans. The name was obtained from the natives by Mr. Banks.)</p> + +<p>Monday, 25th. At low water in the P.M. While the Carpenters were buisey +in repairing the Sheathing and plank under the Larboard bow I got people +to go under the Ship's bottom, to examine all her Larboard side, she only +being dry Forward, but abaft were 9 feet water. They found part of the +Sheathing off abreast of the Mainmast about her floor heads, and a part +of one plank a little damaged. There were 3 people who went down, who all +agreed in the same Story; the Master was one, who was positive that she +had received no Material Damage besides the loss of the Sheathing. This +alone will be sufficient to let the worm into her bottom, which may prove +of bad consequence. However, we must run all risque, for I know of no +method to remedy this but by heaving her down, which would be a work of +Emence Labour and time, if not impractical in our present situation.</p> + +<p>The Carpenters continued hard at work under her bottom until put off by +the Tide in the evening, and the morning Tide did not Ebb out far enough +to permit them to work upon her, for here we have only one Tolerable low +and high tide in 24 Hours. A.M., a party of Men were employ'd ashore +filling water, while others were employ'd overhauling the rigging.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 26th. Fair weather, a South-East wind, and a fresh Gale; at low +Water P.M. the Carpenters finished under the Larboard bow and every other +place the tide would permit them to come at. Lashed some Casks under the +Ship's bows in order to help to float her, and at high water in the Night +attempted to heave her off, but could not, she not being afloat partly +owing to some of the Casks not holding that were Lashed under her. A.M., +employed getting more Casks ready for the same purpose; but I am much +afraid that we shall not be able to float her now the Tides are Taking +off.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 27th. A fresh breeze of Wind at South-East and Cloudy weather. +P.M., lashed 38 empty Butts under the Ship's Bottom in order to float her +off, which proved ineffectual, and therefore gave over all hopes of +getting her off until the Next spring tides. At daylight we got a +Considerable weight of sundry Articles from Aft forward to ease the Ship; +the Armourer at work at the Forge repairing Iron work, etc., Carpenters +caulking and Stocking one of the Spare Anchors, Seamen employ'd filling +of Water and overhauling the rigging, and I went in the pinnace up the +Harbour, and made several hauls with the Sean, but caught only between 20 +and 30 pound of fish, which were given to the sick and such as were weak +and Ailing.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 28th. Fresh breezes and Cloudy. All hands employ'd as +Yesterday.</p> + +<p>Friday, 29th. Wind and weather as Yesterday, and the employment of the +People the same, Lieutenant Gore having been 4 or 5 miles in the Country, +where he met with nothing remarkable. He saw the footsteps of Men, and +likewise those of 3 or 4 sorts of wild beasts, but saw neither Man nor +beast. Some others of our people who were out Yesterday on the North side +of the River met with a place where the Natives have just been, as their +fires was then burning; but they saw nobody, nor have we seen one since +we have been in port. In these excursions we found some Wild Yamms or +Cocos growing in the Swampy grounds, and this Afternoon I sent a Party of +Men to gather some. The Tops we found made good greens, and eat +exceedingly well when Boil'd, but the roots were so bad that few besides +myself could eat them. This night Mr. Green and I observ'd an Emersion of +Jupiter's first Satellite, which hapned at 2 hours 58 minutes 53 seconds +in the A.M.; the same Emersion hapnd at Greenwich, according to +Calculation, on the 30th at 5 hours 17 minutes 43 seconds A.M. The +differance is 14 hours 18 minutes 50 seconds, equal to 214 degrees 42 +minutes 30 seconds of Longitude,* (* This was an excellent observation. +The true longitude is 214 degrees 45 minutes.) which this place is West +of Greenwich, and its Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes South. A.M., I sent +some hands in a Boat up the River to haul the Sean, while the rest were +employ'd about the rigging and sundry other Dutys.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 30th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear serene weather. +P.M., the Boat returned from hauling the Sean, having caught as much fish +as came to a pound and a half a Man. A.M., I sent her again to haul the +Sean, and some hands to gather greens, while others were employ'd about +the rigging, etc., etc. I likewise sent some of the Young Gentlemen to +take a plan of the Harbour, and went myself upon the hill, which is near +the South point to take a view of the Sea.* (* Grassy Hill.) At this time +it was low water, and I saw what gave me no small uneasiness, which were +a Number of Sand Banks and Shoals laying all along the Coast; the +innermost lay about 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore, and the outermost +extended off to Sea as far as I could see without my glass, some just +appeared above water.* (* These were the innermost reefs of the Great +Barrier. There is a tolerably clear passage about 8 miles wide between +them and the shore, though this has some small shoals in it.) The only +hopes I have of getting clear of them is to the Northward, where there +seems to be a Passage, for as the wind blows constantly from the +South-East we shall find it difficult, if not impractical, to return to +the Southward.</p> + +<p>[July 1770.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 1st July. Gentle breezes at South-East, and Cloudy weather, with +some Gentle Showers in the morning. P.M., the People return'd from +hauling the Sean, having caught as much fish as came to 2 1/2 pound per +Man, no one on board having more than another. The few Greens we got I +caused to be boil'd among the pease, and makes a very good Mess, which, +together with the fish, is a great refreshment to the people. A.M., a +party of Men, one from each Mess, went again a fishing, and all the rest +I gave leave to go into the Country, knowing that there was no danger +from the Natives. To-day at Noon the Thermometer in the Shade rose to 87 +degrees, which is 2 or 3 Degrees higher than it hath been on any day +before in this place.</p> + +<p>Monday, 2nd. Ditto weather. P.M., the fishing-party caught as much fish +as came to 2 pounds a Man. Those that were in the Country met with +nothing New. Early in the A.M. I sent the Master in the pinnace out of +the Harbour, to sound about the Shoals in the Offing and to look for a +Channel to the Northward. At this time we had a breeze of wind from the +land, which continued till about 9. What makes me mention this is, that +it is the first Land breeze we have had since we have been in this River. +At low water lashed empty Casks under the Ship's bows, being in some +hopes of floating her the next high Water, and sent some hands a fishing, +while others were employ'd in refitting the Ship.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 3rd. Winds at South-East, Fore and Middle part gentle breeze, +the remainder a fresh gale. In the evening the fishing Party return'd, +having got as much fish as came to 2 pounds a Man. At high water we +attempted to heave the Ship off, but did not succeed. At Noon the Master +return'd, and reported he had found a passage out to Sea between the +Shoals, which passage lies out East-North-East or East by North from the +River mouth. He found these Shoals to Consist of Coral Rocks; he landed +upon one, which drys at low Water, where he found very large cockles* (* +Tridacna.) and a Variety of other Shell fish, a quantity of which he +brought away with him. He told me that he was 5 Leagues out at Sea, +having at that distance 21 fathoms water, and judg'd himself to be +without all the Shoals, which I very much doubted.* (* Cook was right. +The shoals extend for four leagues farther.) After this he came in Shore, +and Stood to the Northward, where he met with a Number of Shoals laying a +little distance from the Shore. About 9 in the evening he landed in a Bay +about 3 Leagues to the Northward of this Place, where he disturbed some +of the Natives, whom he supposed to be at supper; they all fled upon his +approach, and Left him some fresh Sea Eggs, and a fire ready lighted +behind them; but there was neither House nor Hut near. Although these +Shoals lay within sight of the Coast, and abound very much with Shell +fish and other small fish, which are to be caught at Low water in holes +in the Rocks, yet the Natives never visit them, for if they did we must +have seen of these Large shells on shore about their fire places. The +reason I do suppose is, that they have no Boats that they dare Venture so +far out at Sea in.* (* Nevertheless the natives do get out to the islands +which lie farther from the shore than these reefs, as Cook himself +afterwards found.)</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 4th. Strong gales at South-East and fair weather. P.M., the +fishing party return'd with the usual success; at High water hove the +ship Afloat. A.M., employ'd trimming her upon an even Kiel, intending to +lay her ashore once more, to come at her bottom under the Larboard Main +Chains.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 5th. Strong breezes at South-East and fair weather. P.M. Warped +the Ship over, and at high Water laid her ashore on the Sandbank on the +South side of the River, for I was afraid to lay her broad side to the +Shore where she lay before, because the ground lies upon too great a +decent, and she hath already received some Damage by laying there these +last Niep Tides, at least she still makes water.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor, Endeavour River.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 6th. Ditto weather. At low water in the P.M. had hardly 4 feet +water under the Ship; yet could not repair the Sheathing that was beat +off, the place being all under water. One of the Carpenter's crew, a Man +I could trust, went down and Examin'd it, and found 3 Streakes of the +Sheathing gone about 7 or 8 feet long, and the Main Plank a little +rubbed; this account agrees with the report of the Master and others that +were under her bottom before. The Carpenter, who I look upon to be well +skill'd in his profession, and a good judge in these matters, was of +Opinion that this was of little consequence; and as I found that it would +be difficult, if not impractical, for us to get under her bottom to +repair it, I resolved to spend no more time about it. Accordingly at high +water hove her off, and moor'd her alongside the beach, where the Stores, +etc., lay, and in the A.M. got everything in readiness for taking them on +board, and at the same time got on board 8 Tuns of Water, and stow'd in +the ground Tier in the after Hold. In the Morning Mr. Banks and +Lieutenant Gore with 3 Men went in a small Boat up the Harbour, with a +View to stay 2 or 3 days to try to Kill some of the Animals we have seen +about this place.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 7th. Fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather. Employ'd +getting on board Coals, Ballast, etc., and caulking the Ship; a work that +could not be done while she lay aground. The Armourer and his Mate are +Still employ'd at the Forge making and repairing sundry Articles in the +Iron way.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 8th. Gentle breeze and South-East, and clear weather. Early I +sent the Master in a Boat out to Sea to sound again about the Shoals, +because the account he had given of the Channell before mentioned was to +me by no means Satisfactory; likewise sent some hands to haul the Sean, +who caught near 80 pounds of fish; the rest of the people I gave leave to +go into the Country.</p> + +<p>Monday, 9th. In the Day Ditto Winds, but in the night Calm. P.M., Mr. +Gore and Mr. Banks return'd, having met with nothing remarkable; they +were about 3 or 4 Leagues up in the Country without finding hardly any +Variation either in the Soil or Produce. In the Evening the Master +return'd, having been several Leagues out at Sea, and at that Distance +off saw Shoals without him, and was of opinion there was no getting out +to Sea that way. In his return he touched upon one of the Shoals, the +same as he was upon the first time he was out; he here saw a great number +of Turtle, 3 of which he Caught weighing 791 pounds. This occasion'd my +sending him out again this morning provided with proper gear for Striking +them, he having before nothing but a Boat Hook. Carpenters, Smiths, and +Coopers at their respective Employments, and the Seamen employed getting +on board stones, ballast, etc. This day all hands feasted upon Turtle for +the First time.* (* As they had had nothing fresh but a little fish for +four months, and scarcely any meat since they left the Society Islands, +eleven months before, we can imagine that this was a feast.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 10th. Winds and weather as yesterday. Employ'd hoisting on board +and stowing away the ground Tier of Water. P.M., saw 7 or 8 of the +Natives on the South side of the River, and 2 of them came down upon the +Sandy point opposite the Ship; but as soon as I put off in a Boat in +order to speak with them they run away as fast as they could. At 11 Mr. +Banks, who had gone out to Sea with Mr. Molineux, the Master, return'd in +his own Small Boat, and gave but a Very bad account of our +Turtlecatchers. At the time he left them, which was about 6 o'Clock, they +had not got one, nor were they likely to get any; and yet the Master was +so obstinate that he would not return,* (* This seems rather hard upon +the Master.) which obliged me to send Mr. Gore out in the Yawl this +morning to order the Boat and People in, in Case they could not be +employ'd there to some Advantage. In the A.M. 4 of the Natives came down +to the Sandy point on the North side of the Harbour, having along with +them a small wooden Canoe with Outriggers, in which they seem'd to be +employed striking fish, etc. Some were for going over in a Boat to them; +but this I would not suffer, but let them alone without seeming to take +any Notice of them. At length 2 of them came in the Canoe so near the +Ship as to take some things we throw'd them. After this they went away, +and brought over the other 2, and came again alongside, nearer than they +had done before, and took such Trifles as we gave them; after this they +landed close to the Ship, and all 4 went ashore, carrying their Arms with +them. But Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their Arms, and come +and set down by him, after which most of us went to them, made them again +some presents, and stay'd by them until dinner time, when we made them +understand that we were going to eat, and asked them by signals to go +with us; but this they declined, and as soon as we left them they went +away in their Canoe. One of these Men was something above the Middle Age, +the other 3 were young; none of them were above 5 1/2 feet high, and all +their Limbs proportionately small. They were wholy naked, their Skins the +Colour of Wood soot, and this seem'd to be their Natural Colour. Their +Hair was black, lank, and cropt short, and neither wooly nor Frizled; nor +did they want any of their Fore Teeth, as Dampier has mentioned those did +he saw on the Western side of this Country. Some part of their Bodys had +been painted with red, and one of them had his upper lip and breast +painted with Streakes of white, which he called Carbanda. Their features +were far from being disagreeable; their Voices were soft and Tunable, and +they could easily repeat any word after us, but neither us nor Tupia +could understand one word they said.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 11th. Gentle land and Sea breezes. Employed Airing the Bread, +stowing away water, Stores, etc. In the night the Master and Mr. Gore +returned with the Long Boat, and brought with them one Turtle and a few +Shell fish; the Yawl Mr. Gore left upon the Shoal with 6 Men to endeavour +to strike more Turtle. In the morning 4 of the Natives made us another +Short Visit; 3 of them had been with us the preceeding day, the other was +a stranger. One of these men had a hole through the Bridge* (* The +cartilage of the nostril.) of his nose, in which he stuck a peice of Bone +as thick as my finger. Seeing this we examin'd all their Noses, and found +that they had all holes for the same purpose; they had likewise holes in +their Ears, but no Ornaments hanging to them; they had bracelets on their +Arms made of hair, and like Hoops of small Cord. They sometimes may wear +a kind of fillet about their Heads, for one of them had applied some part +of an old shirt which I had given them to this use.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 12th. Winds and weather as Yesterday, and the Employment of the +People the same. At 2 A.M. the Yawl came on board, and brought 3 Turtle +and a large Skeat, and as there was a probability of succeeding in this +kind of fishery, I sent her out again after breakfast. About this time 5 +of the Natives came over and stay'd with us all the Forenoon. There were +7 in all--5 Men, 1 Woman, and a Boy; these 2 last stay'd on the point of +Land on the other side of the River about 200 Yards from us. We could +very clearly see with our Glasses that the Woman was as naked as ever she +was born; even those parts which I always before now thought Nature would +have taught a woman to Conceal were uncovered.</p> + +<p>Friday, 13th. Gentle breezes from the South-East in day, and Calm or +light Airs from the Land in the Night. Employ'd taking on board water, +Stores, etc. At Noon the Yawl return'd with one Turtle and a large Sting +ray.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 14th. Gentle breezes at South-East and Hazey weather. In the +P.M. compleated our water; got on board all the Bread, and part of our +Stores; in the evening sent the Turtlers out again. A.M., employ'd +getting on board stone ballast and Airing the spare Sails. Mr. Gore, +being in the Country, shott one of the Animals before spoke of; it was a +small one of the sort, weighing only 28 pound clear of the entrails; its +body was ----* (* Blank in manuscript.) long; the head, neck, and +Shoulders very Small in proportion to the other parts. It was hair lipt, +and the Head and Ears were most like a Hare's of any Animal I know; the +Tail was nearly as long as the body, thick next the Rump, and Tapering +towards the End; the fore Legs were 8 Inches long, and the Hind 22. Its +progression is by Hopping or Jumping 7 or 8 feet at each hop upon its +hind Legs only, for in this it makes no use of the Fore, which seem to be +only design'd for Scratching in the ground, etc. The Skin is cover'd with +a Short, hairy furr of a dark Mouse or Grey Colour. It bears no sort of +resemblance to any European animal I ever saw; it is said to bear much +resemblance to the Jerboa, excepting in size, the Jerboa being no larger +than a common rat.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 15th. Gentle breezes at South-East and East. P.M., got on board +the Spare Sails and sundry other Articles. In the A.M., as the people did +not work upon the Ship, one of the Petty Officers was desirous of going +out to Catch Turtles. I let him have the Pinnace for that purpose, and +sent the Long boat to haul the Sean, who caught about 60 fish.</p> + +<p>Monday, 16th. Fore and Latter parts gentle breezes at East-North-East; in +the night had light Airs and Calm. In the evening the Yawl came in with 4 +Turtle and a Large Sting ray, and soon after went out again; but the +Pinnace did not return as I expected. A.M., employ'd getting on board +Cables; at the same time I went upon one of the high hills on the North +side of the River, from which I had an extensive view of the inland +Country, which consisted of hills, Valleys, and Large plains, agreeably +diversified with Woods and Lawns.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 17th. Wind at South-East, a fresh breeze; people employed as +yesterday setting up the rigging. In the evening the Pinnace returned +with 3 Turtles, 2 of which the Yawl caught and sent in. At 7 hours 41 +minutes 17 seconds p.m. observ'd the first Satellite of Jupiter to +Emerge, and the same Emersion hapned at Greenwich at 10 hours 00 minutes +52 seconds in the a.m.; the difference is 14 hours 19 minutes 35 seconds +equal to 214 degrees 53 minutes 45 seconds of Longitude. The observation +made on the 29th of last Month gave 214 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds; +the mean is 214 degrees 48 minutes 7 1/2 seconds, which this place is +West of Greenwich.* (* As before mentioned, the true longitude is 214 +degrees 45 minutes.)</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 18th. Wind at East-South-East, a Gentle breeze. P.M., I sent +the Master and one of the Mates in the Pinnace to the Northward to look +for a Channell that way clear of the Shoal. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and +myself took a turn into the woods on the other side of the water, where +we met with 5 of the Natives; and although we had not seen any of them +before, they came to us without showing any signs of fear. 2 of these +wore Necklaces made of Shells, which they seem'd to Value, as they would +not part with them. In the evening the Yawl came in with 3 Turtle, and +early in the A.M. she went out again. About 8 we were Visited by several +of the Natives, who now became more familiar than ever. Soon after this +Mr. Banks and I went over to the South* (* This should be North.) side of +the River, and Travel'd 6 or 8 miles along shore to the Northward, where +we ascended a high hill, from whence I had an extensive view of the Sea +Coast; it afforded us a melancholy prospect of the difficulties we are to +encounter, for in whatever direction we looked it was cover'd with Shoals +as far as the Eye could see; after this we return'd to the Ship without +meeting with anything remarkable, and found several of the Natives on +board. At this time we had 12 tortoise or Turtle upon our Decks, which +they took more Notice of than anything Else in the Ship, as I was told by +the officers, for their Curiosity was Satisfied before I got on board, +and they went away soon after.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 19th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Employ'd getting +everything in readyness for Sea. A.M., we were Visited by 10 or 11 of the +Natives; the most of them came from the other side of the Harbour, where +we saw 6 or 7 more, the most of them Women, and, like the men, quite +naked. Those that came on board were very desirous of having some of our +Turtles, and took the liberty to haul 2 of them to the Gangway to put +over the side; being disappointed in this, they grew a little +Troublesome, and were for throwing every thing overboard they could lay +their hands upon. As we had no Victuals dress'd at this time, I offer'd +them some bread to Eat, which they rejected with Scorn, as I believe they +would have done anything else excepting Turtle;* (* No doubt, in the +native view, the turtle belonged to them, and they considered the +strangers had annexed their property.) soon after this they all went +ashore, Mr. Banks, myself, and 5 or 6 of our people being their at same +time. Immediately upon their Landing one of tbem took a Handful of dry +grass and lighted it at a fire we had ashore, and before we well know'd +what he was going about he made a larger Circuit round about us, and set +fire to the grass in his way, and in an instant the whole place was in +flames. Luckily at this time we had hardly anything ashore, besides the +Forge and a Sow with a litter of young Pigs, one of which was scorched to +Death in the fire. As soon as they had done this they all went to a place +where some of our people were washing, and where all our nets and a good +deal of linnen were laid out to dry; here with the greatest obstinacy +they again set fire to the grass, which I and some others who were +present could not prevent, until I was obliged to fire a Musquet load +with small Shott at one of the Ring leaders, which sent them off. As we +were apprised of this last Attempt of theirs we got the fire out before +it got head, but the first spread like wild fire in the Woods and grass. +Notwithstanding my firing, in which one must have been a little hurt, +because we saw a few drops of blood on some of the linnen he had gone +over, they did not go far from us; for we soon after heard their Voices +in the woods, upon which Mr. Banks and I and 3 or 4 more went to look for +them, and very soon met them coming toward us. As they had each 4 or 5 +Darts, and not knowing their intention, we seized upon 6 or 7 of the +first darts we met with. This alarm'd them so much that they all made +off, and we follow'd them for near 1/2 a Mile, and then set down and +called to them, and they stop'd also; after some little unintelligible +conversation had passed they laid down their darts, and came to us in a +very friendly manner. We now return'd the Darts we had taken from them, +which reconcil'd everything. There were 4 Strangers among them that we +had not seen before, and these were interduced to us by name by the +others; the Man which we supposed to have been Struck with small Shott +was gone off, but he could not be much hurt as he was at a great distance +when I fir'd. They all came along with us abreast of the Ship, where they +stay'd a short time, and then went away, and soon after set the woods on +fire about a Mile and a half or two Miles from us.</p> + +<p>Friday, 20th. Fresh breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M., got +everything on board the Ship, new berth'd her, and let her swing with the +tide. In the night the Master return'd with the pinnace, and reported +that there was no safe Passage for the Ship to the Northward at low +water. A.M., I went and Sounded and buoy'd the Bar, being now ready to +put to sea the first opportunity.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 21st. Strong breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. P.M., +sent a Boat to haul the Sean, which return'd with as much fish as came to +1 3/4 pounds per Man; the Yawl return'd with only one Turtle, which was +caught in the Net, for it blew too hard for the Boat to strike any. In +the morning I sent her out again, but she was obliged to return, not +being able to get to Windward. The Carpenters employ'd in repairing the +Boats and overhauling the Pumps, and as the Wind would not permit us to +sail, I sent the Boatswain with some hands ashore to make rope, and a +petty Officer with 2 Men to gather Greens for the Ship's Company.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 22nd. Fresh breezes at South-East and East-South-East. Employ'd +as Yesterday. A.M., the weather would not permit us to Sail; sent the +Turtlers out again. In opening of one to-day we found sticking thro' both +Shoulder bones a wood Harpoon, or Turtle Peg, 15 Inches long, bearded at +the end, such as we have seen among the Natives; this proves to a +Demonstration that they strike Turtle, I suppose at the Time they come +ashore to lay their Eggs, for they certainly have no boat fit to do this +at Sea, or that will carry a Turtle, and this Harpoon must have been a +good while in, as the wound was quite heal'd up.</p> + +<p>Monday, 23rd. Fresh breezes in the South-East quarter, which so long as +it continues will confine us in Port. Yesterday, A.M., I sent some people +in the Country to gather greens, one of which stragled from the rest, and +met with 4 of the Natives by a fire, on which they were broiling a Fowl, +and the hind leg of one of the Animals before spoke of. He had the +presence of mind not to run from them (being unarm'd), least they should +pursue him, but went and set down by them; and after he had set a little +while, and they had felt his hands and other parts of his body, they +suffer'd him to go away without offering the least insult, and perceiving +that he did not go right for the Ship they directed him which way to go.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 24th. Winds and weather continues. The Seamen employ'd making +ropes, Caulking the Ship, Fishing, etc.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 25th. Fresh gales at South-East and fair weather. In the +evening the Yawl came in, having not been able to Strike one Turtle on +account of the blowing weather, nor can we catch much fish with the Sean +in the Harbour.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 26th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. Such people as can be +spared from the necessary Dutys of the Ship are employ'd fishing and +gathering greens and other refreshments.</p> + +<p>Friday, 27th. Very fresh Gales at South-East by South and fair weather. +A.M., caught as much fish as served 3/4 pounds a man, and Mr. Gore shott +one of the Animals before spoke of, which weighed 80 pounds and 54 +pounds, exclusive of the entrails, Skin, and head; this was as large as +the most we have seen.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 28th. Winds and weather as above, without the least Variation +the whole of the 24 hours. The Carpenters finish'd caulking the Ship.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 29th. Winds at South-East, a fresh breeze until 5 a.m., at which +time it fell calm, and soon after had a light breeze from the land. Upon +this I sent a Boat to see what water was upon the bar (it being 2 hours +Ebb), and hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea; but upon the return +of the Boat came too again, as there were only 13 feet water on the Bar, +which was 6 Inches less water than what the Ship Draw'd. After this I +sent the Yawl to look for Turtle, as those we had got before were nearly +all expended. About 8 the Sea breeze set in again, which put an end to +our Sailing this day; after which I sent the Pinnace to haul the Sean; +she return'd with only 20 pounds of Fish.</p> + +<p>Monday, 30th. Winds at South-East, a fresh Gale and fair weather in the +P.M., the remainder Hazey, with rain, but the winds, tho more moderate, +keept in the South-East quarter.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 31st. Fresh Gales at South-East, and hazey with rain all P.M. +and most part of the Night. At 2 a.m. I had thoughts of trying to Warp +the Ship out of the Harbour, but upon my going first out in a Boat I +found it blow too fresh for such an Attempt.</p> + +<p>[August 1770.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 1st August. Strong Gales from the South-East, with Squalls +attended with Rain. P.M., the Yawl came in with 2 Rays, which together +weighed 265 pounds; it blow'd too hard all the time they were out for +striking Turtle. Carpenters employ'd overhauling the Pumps, all of which +we find in a state of decay; and this the Carpenter says is owing to the +Sap having been left in, which in time has decay'd the sound wood. One of +them is quite useless, and was so rotten when hoisted up as to drop to +peices. However, I cannot complain of a Leaky Ship, for the most water +She makes is not quite an Inch an Hour.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2nd. Winds and weather as yesterday, or rather more Stormy; we +have now no Success in the Sein fishing, hardly getting above 20 or 30 +pounds a day.</p> + +<p>Friday, 3rd. Strong breezes, and hazey until 6 a.m., when it moderated, +and we unmoor'd, hove up the Anchor, and began to Warp out; but the Ship +tailing upon the Sand on the North side of the River, the Tide of Ebb +making out, and a fresh breeze setting in, we were obliged to desist and +moor the Ship again just within the Barr.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 4th. In the P.M., having pretty moderate weather, I order'd the +Coasting Anchor and Cable to be laid without the barr, to be ready to +warp out by, that we might not loose the least opportunity that might +Offer; for laying in Port spends time to no purpose, consumes our +Provisions, of which we are very Short in many Articles, and we have yet +a long Passage to make to the East Indies through an unknown and perhaps +dangerous Sea; these Circumstances consider'd, make me very Anxious of +getting to Sea. The wind continued moderate all night, and at 5 a.m. it +fell calm; this gave us an opportunity to warp out. About 7 we got under +sail, having a light Air from the Land, which soon died away, and was +Succeeded by the Sea breezes from South-East by South, with which we +stood off to Sea East by North, having the Pinnace ahead sounding. The +Yawl I sent to the Turtle bank to take up the Net that was left there; +but as the wind freshen'd we got out before her, and a little After Noon +Anchor'd in 15 fathoms water, Sandy bottom, for I did not think it safe +to run in among the Shoals until I had well view'd them at low Water from +the Mast head, that I might be better Able to Judge which way to Steer; +for as yet I had not resolved whether I should beat back to the Southward +round all the Shoals, or seek a Passage to the Eastward or Northward, all +of which appeared to be equally difficult and dangerous. When at Anchor +the Harbour sail'd from bore South 70 degrees West, distant 4 or 5 +Leagues; the Northermost point of the Main land we have in sight, which I +named Cape Bedford* (* Probably after John, 4th Duke, who had been First +Lord of the Admiralty, 1744 to 1747.) (Latitude 15 degrees 17 minutes +South, Longitude 214 degrees 45 minutes West), bore North 20 degrees +West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues; but we could see land to the North-East of +this Cape, which made like 2 high Islands;* (* Direction Islands.) the +Turtle banks bore East, distant one Mile. Latitude by Observation 15 +degrees 23 minutes South; our depth of Water, in standing off from the +land, was from 3 1/2 to 15 fathoms.</p> + +<p>[Description of Endeavour River.]</p> + +<p>I shall now give a Short description of the Harbour, or River, we have +been in, which I named after the Ship, Endeavour River. It is only a +small Barr Harbour or Creek, which runs winding 3 or 4 Leagues in land, +at the Head of which is a small fresh Water Brook, as I was told, for I +was not so high myself; but there is not water for Shipping above a Mile +within the barr, and this is on the North side, where the bank is so +steep for nearly a quarter of a Mile that ships may lay afloat at low +water so near the Shore as to reach it with a stage, and is extreamly +Convenient for heaving a Ship down. And this is all the River hath to +recommend it, especially for large Shipping, for there is no more than 9 +or 10 feet Water upon the Bar at low water, and 17 or 18 feet at high, +the Tides rises and falling about 9 feet at spring Tide, and is high on +the days of the New and full Moon, between 9 and 10 o'Clock. Besides, +this part of the Coast is barrocaded with Shoals, as to make this Harbour +more difficult of access; the safest way I know of to come at it is from +the South, Keeping the Main land close on board all the way. Its +situation may always be found by the Latitude, which hath been before +mentioned. Over the South point is some high Land, but the North point is +formed by a low sandy beach, which extends about 3 Miles to the +Northward, then the land is again high.</p> + +<p>The refreshments we got here were Chiefly Turtle, but as we had to go 5 +Leagues out to Sea for them, and had much blowing weather, we were not +over Stocked with this Article; however, what with these and the fish we +caught with the Sean we had not much reason to Complain, considering the +Country we were in. Whatever refreshment we got that would bear a +Division I caused to be equally divided among the whole Company, +generally by weight; the meanest person in the Ship had an equal share +with myself or any one on board, and this method every commander of a +Ship on such a Voyage as this ought ever to Observe. We found in several +places on the Sandy beaches and Sand Hills near the Sea, Purslain and +beans, which grows on a Creeping kind of a Vine. The first we found very +good when boiled, and the latter not to be dispised, and were at first +very serviceable to the Sick; but the best greens we found here was the +Tarra, or Coco Tops, called in the West Indies Indian Kale,* (* Colocasia +Macrorhiza.) which grows in most Boggy Places; these eat as well as, or +better, than Spinnage. The roots, for want of being Transplanted and +properly Cultivated, were not good, yet we could have dispensed with them +could we have got them in any Tolerable plenty; but having a good way to +go for them, it took up too much time and too many hands to gather both +root and branch. The few Cabage Palms we found here were in General +small, and yielded so little Cabage that they were not worth the Looking +after, and this was the Case with most of the fruit, etc., we found in +the woods.</p> + +<p>Besides the Animals which I have before mentioned, called by the Natives +Kangooroo, or Kanguru, here are Wolves,* (* Probably Dingos.) Possums, an +Animal like a ratt, and snakes, both of the Venemous and other sorts. +Tame Animals here are none except Dogs, and of these we never saw but +one, who frequently came about our Tents to pick up bones, etc. The +Kanguru are in the greatest number, for we seldom went into the Country +without seeing some. The land Fowls we met here, which far from being +numerous, were Crows, Kites, Hawkes, Cockadores* (* Cockatoos.) of 2 +Sorts, the one white, and the other brown, very beautiful Loryquets of 2 +or 3 Sorts, Pidgeons, Doves, and a few other sorts of small Birds. The +Sea or Water fowl are Herns, Whisling Ducks, which perch and, I believe, +roost on Trees; Curlews, etc., and not many of these neither. Some of our +Gentlemen who were in the Country heard and saw Wild Geese in the Night.</p> + +<p>The Country, as far as I could see, is diversified with Hills and plains, +and these with woods and Lawns; the Soil of the Hills is hard, dry, and +very Stoney; yet it produceth a thin Coarse grass, and some wood. The +Soil of the Plains and Valleys are sandy, and in some places Clay, and in +many Parts very Rocky and Stoney, as well as the Hills, but in general +the Land is pretty well Cloathed with long grass, wood, Shrubs, etc. The +whole Country abounds with an immense number of Ant Hills, some of which +are 6 or 8 feet high, and more than twice that in Circuit. Here are but +few sorts of Trees besides the Gum tree, which is the most numerous, and +is the same that we found on the Southern Part of the Coast, only here +they do not grow near so large. On each side of the River, all the way up +it, are Mangroves, which Extend in some places a Mile from its banks; the +Country in general is not badly water'd, there being several fine +Rivulets at no very great distance from one another, but none near to the +place where we lay; at least not in the Dry season, which is at this +time. However we were very well supply'd with water by springs which were +not far off.* (* Cooktown, which now stands on the Endeavour River, is a +thriving place, and the northernmost town on this coast. It has some 2000 +inhabitants, and is the port for a gold mining district. A deeper channel +has now been dredged over the bar that gave Cook so much trouble, but it +is not a harbour that will admit large vessels.)</p> + +<p>[At Anchor, Off Turtle Reef, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 5th. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South-East and Clear +weather. As I did not intend to weigh until the morning I sent all the +Boats to the Reef to get what Turtle and Shell fish they could. At low +water from the Mast head I took a view of the Shoals, and could see +several laying a long way without this one, a part of several of them +appearing above water; but as it appear'd pretty clear of Shoals to the +North-East of the Turtle Reef, I came to a Resolution to stretch out that +way close upon a wind, because if we found no Passage we could always +return back the way we went. In the Evening the Boats return'd with one +Turtle, a sting ray, and as many large Clams as came to 1 1/2 pounds a +Man; in each of these Clams were about 20 pounds of Meat; added to this +we Caught in the night several Sharks. Early in the morning I sent the +Pinnace and Yawl again to the Reef, as I did not intend to weigh until +half Ebb, at which time the Shoals began to appear. Before 8 it came on +to blow, and I made the Signal for the Boats to come on Board, which they +did, and brought with them one Turtle. We afterwards began to heave, but +the wind Freshening obliged us to bear away* (* To veer cable, i.e., pay +out more cable, in order to hold the ship with the freshening wind.) +again and lay fast.</p> + +<p>Monday, 6th. Winds at South-East. At 2 o'Clock p.m. it fell pretty +Moderate, and we got under sail, and stood out upon a wind North-East by +East, leaving the Turtle Reef to windward, having the Pinnace ahead +sounding. We had not stood out long before we discovered shoals ahead and +on both bows. At half past 4 o'Clock, having run off 8 Miles, the Pinnace +made the Signal for Shoal water in a place where we little Expected it; +upon this we Tack'd and Stood on and off while the Pinnace stretched +farther to the Eastward, but as night was approaching I thought it safest +to Anchor, which we accordingly did in 20 fathoms water, a Muddy bottom. +Endeavour River bore South 52 degrees West; Cape Bedford West by North +1/2 North, distant 5 Leagues; the Northermost land in sight, which made +like an Island, North; and a Shoal, a small, sandy part of which appear'd +above water, North-East, distance 2 or 3 Miles. In standing off from this +Turtle Reef to this place our soundings were from 14 to 20 fathoms, but +where the Pinnace was, about a Mile farther to the East-North-East, were +no more than 4 or 5 feet of water, rocky ground; and yet this did not +appear to us in the Ship. In the morning we had a strong Gale from the +South-East, that, instead of weighing as we intended, we were obliged to +bear away more Cable, and to Strike Top Gallant yards.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 7th. Strong Gales at South-East, South-East by South, and +South-South-East, with cloudy weather at Low water in the P.M. I and +several of the Officers kept a look out at the Mast head to see for a +Passage between the Shoals; but we could see nothing but breakers all the +way from the South round by the East as far as North-West, extending out +to Sea as far as we could see. It did not appear to be one continued +Shoal, but several laying detached from each other. On the Eastermost +that we could see the Sea broke very high, which made one judge it to be +the outermost; for on many of those within the Sea did not break high at +all, and from about 1/2 flood to 1/2 Ebb they are not to be seen, which +makes the Sailing among them more dangerous, and requires great care and +Circumspection, for, like all other Shoals, or Reefs of Coral Rocks, they +are quite steep too. Altho' the most of these Shoals consist of Coral +Rocks, yet a part of some of them is sand. The Turtle Reef and some +others have a small Patch of Sand generally at the North end, that is +only cover'd at high water. These generally discover themselves before we +come near them. Altho' I speak of this as the Turtle Reef, yet it is not +to be doubted but what there are Turtle upon the most of them as well as +this one. After having well viewed our situation from the Mast Head, I +saw that we were surrounded on every side with Dangers, in so much that I +was quite at a loss which way to steer when the weather will permit us to +get under sail, for to beat back to the South-East the way we came, as +the Master would have had me done, would be an endless peice of work, as +the winds blow constantly from that Quarter, and very Strong, without +hardly any intermission;* (* The south-east trade wind blows home on this +coast very strong from about June to October. Though the Barrier Reef +prevents any great sea from getting up, the continuance of this wind is a +great nuisance for a sailing ship from many points of view though from +others it is an advantage.) on the other hand, if we do not find a +passage to the Northward we shall have to come back at last. At 11 the +Ship drove, and obliged us to bear away to a Cable and one third, which +brought us up again; but in the morning the Gale increasing, she drove +again. This made us let go the Small Bower Anchor, and bear away a whole +Cable on it and 2 on the other; and even after this she still kept +driving slowly, until we had got down Top gallant Masts, struck Yards and +Top masts close down, and made all snug; then she rid fast, Cape Bedford +bearing West-South-West, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. In this situation we had +Shoals to the Eastward of us extending from the South-East by South to +the North-North-West, distant from the nearest part of them about 2 +Miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 8th. Strong gales at South-South-East all this day, in so much +that I durst not get up Yards and Topmasts.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. In the P.M., the weather being something moderate, we got +up the Top masts, but keept the Lower yards down. At 6 in the morning we +began to heave in the Cable, thinking to get under sail; but it blow'd so +fresh, together with a head sea, that we could hardly heave the ship a +head, and at last was obliged to desist.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Flattery, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. Fresh Gales at South-South-East and South-East by South. +P.M., the wind fell so that we got up the small Bower Anchor, and hove +into a whole Cable on the Best Bower. At 3 in the morning we got up the +Lower Yards, and at 7 weighed and stood in for the Land (intending to +seek for a passage along Shore to the northward), having a Boat ahead +sounding; depth of water as we run in from 19 to 12 fathoms. After +standing in an hour we edged away for 3 Small Islands* (* Now called the +Three Isles.) that lay North-North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues from Cape +Bedford. To these Islands the Master had been in the Pinnace when the +Ship was in Port. At 9 we were abreast of them, and between them and the +Main, having another low Island between us and the latter, which lies +West-North-West, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands. In this Channell had 14 +fathoms water; the Northermost point of the Main we had in sight bore +from us North-North-West 1/2 West, distant 2 Leagues. 4 or 5 Leagues to +the North-East of this head land appeared 3 high Islands,* (* The +Direction Islands.) with some smaller ones near them, and the Shoals and +Reefs without, as we could see, extending to the Northward as far as +these Islands. We directed our Course between them and the above +headland, leaving a small Island* (* The Two Isles. Cook had now got +among the numerous islands and reefs which lie round Cape Flattery. There +are good channels between them, but they are very confusing to a +stranger. Cook's anxiety in his situation can well be imagined, +especially with his recent disaster in his mind.) to the Eastward of us, +which lies North by East, 4 Miles from the 3 Islands, having all the +while a boat ahead sounding. At Noon we were got between the head Land +and the 3 high Islands, distant from the former 2, and from the latter 4 +Leagues; our Latitude by observation was 14 degrees 51 minutes South. We +now judged ourselves to be clear of all Danger, having, as we thought, a +Clear, open Sea before us; but this we soon found otherwise, and +occasioned my calling the Headland above mentioned Cape Flattery +(Latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes South, Longitude 214 degrees 43 minutes +West). It is a high Promontory, making in 2 Hills next the sea, and a +third behind them, with low sandy land on each side; but it is better +known by the 3 high Islands out at Sea, the Northermost of which is the +Largest, and lies from the Cape North-North-East, distant 5 Leagues. From +this Cape the Main land trends away North-West and North-West by West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 11th. Fresh breezes at South-South-East and South-East by +South, with which we steer'd along shore North-West by West until one +o'Clock, when the Petty Officer at the Masthead called out that he saw +land ahead, extending quite round to the Islands without, and a large +reef between us and them; upon this I went to the Masthead myself. The +reef I saw very plain, which was now so far to windward that we could not +weather it, but what he took for Main land ahead were only small Islands, +for such they appeared to me; but, before I had well got from Mast head +the Master and some others went up, who all asserted that it was a +Continuation of the Main land, and, to make it still more alarming, they +said they saw breakers in a Manner all round us. We immediately hauld +upon a wind in for the Land, and made the Signal for the Boat, which was +ahead sounding, to come on board; but as she was well to leeward, we were +obliged to edge away to take her up, and soon after came to an Anchor +under a point of the Main in 1/4 less 5* (* The nautical manner of +expressing four and three-quarters.) fathoms, about a Mile from the +Shore, Cape Flattery bearing South-East, distant 3 1/2 Leagues. After +this I landed, and went upon the point, which is pretty high, from which +I had a View of the Sea Coast, which trended away North-West by West, 8 +or 10 Leagues, which was as far as I could see, the weather not being +very clear. I likewise saw 9 or 10 Small, Low Islands and some Shoals +laying off the Coast, and some large Shoals between the Main and the 3 +high Islands, without which, I was now well assured, were Islands, and +not a part of the Mainland as some had taken them to be. Excepting Cape +Flattery and the point I am now upon, which I have named point Lookout, +the Main land next the sea to the Northward of Cape Bedford is low, and +Chequer'd with white sand and green Bushes, etc., for 10 or 12 Miles +inland, beyond which is high land. To the northward of Point Lookout the +shore appear'd to be shoal and flat some distance off, which was no good +sign of meeting with a Channell in with the land, as we have hitherto +done. We saw the footsteps of people upon the sand, and smoke and fire up +in the Country, and in the evening return'd on board, where I came to a +resolution to visit one of the high Islands in the Offing in my Boat, as +they lay at least 5 Leagues out at Sea, and seem'd to be of such a height +that from the Top of one of them I hoped to see and find a Passage out to +sea clear of the Shoals. Accordingly in the Morning I set out in the +Pinnace for the Northermost and largest of the 3, accompanied by Mr. +Banks. At the same time I sent the Master in the Yawl to Leeward, to +sound between the Low Islands and the Main. In my way to the Island I +passed over a large reef of Coral Rocks and sand, which lies about 2 +Leagues from the Island; I left another to leeward, which lays about 3 +Miles from the Island. [On Lizard Island, Queensland.] On the North part +of this is a low, sandy Isle, with Trees upon it; on the reef we pass'd +over in the Boat we saw several Turtle, and Chased one or Two, but caught +none, it blowing too hard, and I had no time to spare, being otherways +employ'd. I did not reach the Island until half an hour after one o'Clock +in the P.M. on</p> + +<p>Sunday, 12th, when I immediately went upon the highest hill on the +Island,* (* Lizard Island.) where, to my Mortification, I discover'd a +Reef of Rocks laying about 2 or 3 Leagues without the Island, extending +in a line North-West and South-East, farther than I could see, on which +the sea broke very high.* (* This was the outer edge of the Barrier +Reefs.) This, however, gave one great hopes that they were the outermost +shoals, as I did not doubt but what I should be able to get without them, +for there appeared to be several breaks or Partitions in the Reef, and +Deep Water between it and the Islands. I stay'd upon the Hill until near +sun set, but the weather continued so Hazey all the time that I could not +see above 4 or 5 Leagues round me, so that I came down much disappointed +in the prospect I expected to have had, but being in hopes the morning +might prove Clearer, and give me a better View of the Shoals. With this +view I stay'd all night upon the Island, and at 3 in the Morning sent the +Pinnace, with one of the Mates I had with me, to sound between the Island +and the Reefs, and to Examine one of the breaks or Channels; and in the +mean time I went again upon the Hill, where I arrived by Sun Rise, but +found it much Hazier than in the Evening. About Noon the pinnace +return'd, having been out as far as the Reef, and found from 15 to 28 +fathoms water. It blow'd so hard that they durst not venture into one of +the Channels, which, the Mate said, seem'd to him to be very narrow; but +this did not discourage me, for I thought from the place he was at he +must have seen it at disadvantage. Before I quit this Island I shall +describe it. It lies, as I have before observed, about 5 Leagues from the +Main; it is about 8 Miles in Circuit, and of a height sufficient to be +seen 10 or 12 Leagues; it is mostly high land, very rocky and barren, +except on the North-West side, where there are some sandy bays and low +land, which last is covered with thin, long grass, Trees, etc., the same +as upon the Main. Here is also fresh Water in 2 places; the one is a +running stream, the water a little brackish where I tasted it, which was +close to the sea; the other is a standing pool, close behind the sandy +beach, of good, sweet water, as I daresay the other is a little way from +the Sea beach. The only land Animals we saw here were Lizards, and these +seem'd to be pretty Plenty, which occasioned my naming the Island Lizard +Island. The inhabitants of the Main visit this Island at some Seasons of +the Year, for we saw the Ruins of Several of their Hutts and heaps of +Shells, etc. South-East, 4 or 5 Miles from this Island, lay the other 2 +high Islands, which are very small compared to this; and near them lay 3 +others, yet smaller and lower Islands, and several Shoals or reefs, +especially to the South-East. There is, however, a clear passage from +Cape Flattery to those Islands, and even quite out to the outer Reefs, +leaving the above Islands to the South-East and Lizard Island to the +North-West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 13th. At 2 P.M. I left Lizard Island in order to return to the +Ship, and in my way landed upon the low sandy Isle mentioned in coming +out. We found on this Island* (* Eagle Island.) a pretty number of Birds, +the most of them sea Fowl, except Eagles; 2 of the Latter we shott and +some of the others; we likewise saw some Turtles, but got none, for the +reasons before mentioned. After leaving Eagle Isle I stood South-West +direct for the Ship, sounding all the way, and had not less than 8 +fathoms, nor more than 14. I had the same depth of Water between Lizard +and Eagle Isle. After I got on board the Master inform'd me he had been +down to the Islands I had directed him to go too, which he judged to lay +about 3 Leagues from the Main, and had sounded the Channel between the 2, +found 7 fathoms; this was near the Islands, for in with the Main he had +only 9 feet 3 Miles off, but without the Islands he found 10, 12, and 14 +fathoms. He found upon the islands piles of turtle shells, and some finns +that were so fresh that both he and the boats' crew eat of them. This +showed that the natives must have been there lately. After well +considering both what I had seen myself and the report of the Master's, I +found by experience that by keeping in with the Mainland we should be in +continued danger, besides the risk we should run in being lock'd in with +Shoals and reefs by not finding a passage out to Leeward. In case we +persever'd in keeping the Shore on board an accident of this kind, or any +other that might happen to the ship, would infallibly loose our passage +to the East India's this Season,* (* In November the wind changes to the +North-West, which would have been a foul wind to Batavia.) and might +prove the ruin of both ourselves and the Voyage, as we have now little +more than 3 Months' Provisions on board, and that at short allowance. +Wherefore, after consulting with the Officers, I resolved to weigh in the +morning, and Endeavour to quit the Coast altogether until such time as I +found I could approach it with less danger. With this View we got under +sail at daylight in the morning, and stood out North-East for the +North-West end of Lizard Island, having Eagle Island to windward of us, +having the pinnace ahead sounding; and here we found a good Channell, +wherein we had from 9 to 14 fathoms. At Noon the North end of Lizard +Island bore East-South-East, distant one Mile; Latitude observed 14 +degrees 38 minutes South; depth of water 14 fathoms. We now took the +pinnace in tow, knowing that there were no dangers until we got out to +the Reefs.* (* From the 13th to the 19th the language used in Mr. +Corner's copy of the Journal is quite different from that of the +Admiralty and the Queen's, though the occurrences are the same. From +internal evidences, it appears that Mr. Corner's copy was at this period +the first written up, and that Cook amended the phrases in the other fair +copies.)</p> + +<p>[Pass Outside Barrier Reef, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 14th. Winds at South-East, a steady gale. By 2 P.M. we got out +to the outermost reefs, and just fetched to Windward of one of the +openings I had discover'd from the Island; we tacked and Made a short +trip to the South-West, while the Master went in the pinnace to examine +the Channel, who soon made the signal for the Ship to follow, which we +accordingly did, and in a short time got safe out. This Channel* (* Now +known as Cook's Passage.) lies North-East 1/2 North, 3 Leagues from +Lizard Island; it is about one-third of a Mile broad, and 25 or 30 +fathoms deep or more. The moment we were without the breakers we had no +ground with 100 fathoms of Line, and found a large Sea rowling in from +the South-East. By this I was well assured we were got with out all the +Shoals, which gave us no small joy, after having been intangled among +Islands and Shoals, more or less, ever since the 26th of May, in which +time we have sail'd above 360 Leagues by the Lead without ever having a +Leadsman out of the Chains, when the ship was under sail; a Circumstance +that perhaps never hapned to any ship before, and yet it was here +absolutely necessary. I should have been very happy to have had it in my +power to have keept in with the land, in order to have explor'd the Coast +to the Northern extremity of the Country, which I think we were not far +off, for I firmly believe this land doth not join to New Guinea. But this +I hope soon either to prove or disprove, and the reasons I have before +assign'd will, I presume, be thought sufficient for my leaving the Coast +at this time; not but what I intend to get in with it again as soon as I +can do it with safety. The passage or channel we now came out by, which I +have named, ----* (* Blank in MS.) lies in the Latitude of 14 degrees 32 +minutes South; it may always be found and known by the 3 high Islands +within it, which I have called the Islands of Direction, because by their +means a safe passage may be found even by strangers in within the Main +reef, and quite into the Main. Lizard Island, which is the Northermost +and Largest of the 3, Affords snug Anchorage under the North-West side of +it, fresh water and wood for fuel; and the low Islands and Reefs which +lay between it and the Main, abound with Turtle and other fish, which may +be caught at all Seasons of the Year (except in such blowing weather as +we have lately had). All these things considered there is, perhaps, not a +better place on the whole Coast for a Ship to refresh at than this +Island. I had forgot to mention in its proper place, that not only on +this Island, but on Eagle Island, and on several places of the Sea beach +in and about Endeavour River, we found Bamboos, Cocoa Nutts, the seeds of +some few other plants, and Pummice-stones, which were not the produce of +the Country. From what we have seen of it, it is reasonable to suppose +that they are the produce of some lands or Islands laying in the +Neighbourhood, most likely to the Eastward, and are brought hither by the +Easterly trade winds. The Islands discover'd by Quiros lies in this +parrallel, but how far to the Eastward it's hard to say; for altho' we +found in most Charts his discoveries placed as far to the West as this +country yet from the account of his Voyage, compared with what we +ourselves have seen, we are Morally certain that he never was upon any +part of this Coast.* (* The Island of Espiritu Santo, in the New +Hebrides, which Quiros discovered, lies 1200 miles to the eastward, and +New Caledonia, from which these objects might equally have come, is 1000 +miles in the same direction.) As soon as we had got without the Reefs we +Shortened sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat, which last we +had hung alongside, and then stretched off East-North-East, close upon a +wind, as I did not care to stand to the Northward until we had a whole +day before us, for which reason we keept making short boards all night. +The large hollow sea we have now got into acquaints us with a +Circumstance we did not before know, which is that the Ship hath received +more Damage than we were aware of, or could perceive when in smooth +Water; for now she makes as much water as one pump will free, kept +constantly at work. However this was looked upon as trifling to the +Danger we had lately made an Escape from. At day light in the morning +Lizard Island bore South by West, distant 10 Leagues. We now made all the +sail we could, and stood away North-North-West 1/2 West, but at 9 we +steer'd North-West 1/2 North, having the advantage of a Fresh Gale at +South-East; at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 13 degrees +46 minutes South, the Lizard Island bore South 15 degrees East, distant +58 Miles, but we had no land in sight.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 15th. Fresh Trade at South-East and Clear weather. At 6 in the +evening shortned sail and brought too, with her head to the North-East. +By this time we had run near 12 Leagues upon a North-West 1/2 North +Course since Noon. At 4 a.m. wore and lay her head to the South-West, and +at 6 made all Sail, and steer'd West, in order to make the land, being +fearful of over shooting the passage, supposing there to be one, between +this land and New Guinea. By noon we had run 10 Leagues upon this Course, +but saw no land. Our Latitude by observation was 13 degrees 2 minutes +South, Longitude 216 degrees 00 minutes West, which was 1 degree 23 +minutes to the West of Lizard Island.</p> + +<p>[Ship in Danger, Outside Barrier Reef.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 16th. Moderate breezes at East-South-East and fair weather. A +little after Noon saw the Land from the Mast head bearing +West-South-West, making high; at 2 saw more land to the North-West of the +former, making in hills like Islands; but we took it to be a Continuation +of the Main land. An hour after this we saw a reef, between us and the +land, extending away to the Southward, and, as we thought, terminated +here to the Northward abreast of us; but this was only on op'ning, for +soon after we saw it extend away to the Northward as far as we could +distinguish anything. Upon this we hauld close upon a Wind, which was now +at East-South-East, with all the sail we could set. We had hardly trimm'd +our sails before the wind came to East by North, which made our +weathering the Reef very doubtful, the Northern point of which in sight +at sun set still bore from us North by West, distant about 2 Leagues. +However, this being the best Tack to Clear it, we keept standing to the +Northward, keeping a good look out until 12 at night, when, fearing to +run too far upon one Course, we tack'd and stood to the southward, having +run 6 Leagues North or North by East since sun set; we had not stood +above 2 Miles to the South-South-East before it fell quite Calm. We both +sounded now and several times before, but had not bottom with 140 fathoms +of line.* (* The description which follows, of the situation of the ship, +and the occurrences until she was safely anchored inside the Barrier +Reef, is from the Admiralty copy, as it is much fuller than that in Mr. +Corner's.) A little after 4 o'clock the roaring of the surf was plainly +heard, and at daybreak the Vast foaming breakers were too plainly to be +seen not a mile from us, towards which we found the ship was carried by +the Waves surprisingly fast. We had at this time not an air of Wind, and +the depth of water was unfathomable, so that there was not a possibility +of anchoring. In this distressed Situation we had nothing but Providence +and the small Assistance the Boats could give us to trust to; the Pinnace +was under repair, and could not immediately be hoisted out. The Yawl was +put in the Water, and the Longboat hoisted out, and both sent ahead to +tow, which, together with the help of our sweeps abaft, got the Ship's +head round to the Northward, which seemed to be the best way to keep her +off the Reef, or at least to delay time. Before this was effected it was +6 o'clock, and we were not above 80 or 100 yards from the breakers. The +same sea that washed the side of the ship rose in a breaker prodidgiously +high the very next time it did rise, so that between us and destruction +was only a dismal Valley, the breadth of one wave, and even now no ground +could be felt with 120 fathom. The Pinnace was by this time patched up, +and hoisted out and sent ahead to Tow. Still we had hardly any hopes of +saving the ship, and full as little our lives, as we were full 10 Leagues +from the nearest Land, and the boats not sufficient to carry the whole of +us; yet in this Truly Terrible Situation not one man ceased to do his +utmost, and that with as much Calmness as if no danger had been near. All +the dangers we had escaped were little in comparison of being thrown upon +this reef, where the Ship must be dashed to pieces in a Moment. A reef +such as one speaks of here is Scarcely known in Europe. It is a Wall of +Coral Rock rising almost perpendicular out of the unfathomable Ocean, +always overflown at high Water generally 7 or 8 feet, and dry in places +at Low Water. The Large Waves of the Vast Ocean meeting with so sudden a +resistance makes a most Terrible Surf, breaking Mountains high, +especially as in our case, when the General Trade Wind blows directly +upon it. At this Critical juncture, when all our endeavours seemed too +little, a Small Air of Wind sprung up, but so small that at any other +Time in a Calm we should not have observed it. With this, and the +Assistance of our Boats, we could observe the Ship to move off from the +Reef in a slanting direction; but in less than 10 Minutes we had as flat +a Calm as ever, when our fears were again renewed, for as yet we were not +above 200 Yards from the Breakers. Soon after our friendly Breeze visited +us again, and lasted about as long as before. A Small Opening was now +Seen in the Reef about a 1/4 of a Mile from us, which I sent one of the +Mates to Examine. Its breadth was not more than the Length of the Ship, +but within was Smooth Water. Into this place it was resolved to Push her +if Possible, having no other Probable Views to save her, for we were +still in the very Jaws of distruction, and it was a doubt wether or no we +could reach this Opening. However, we soon got off it, when to our +Surprise we found the Tide of Ebb gushing out like a Mill Stream, so that +it was impossible to get in. We however took all the Advantage Possible +of it, and it Carried us out about a 1/4 of a Mile from the breakers; but +it was too Narrow for us to keep in long. However, what with the help of +this Ebb, and our Boats, we by Noon had got an Offing of 1 1/2 or 2 +Miles, yet we could hardly flatter ourselves with hopes of getting Clear, +even if a breeze should Spring up, as we were by this time embay'd by the +Reef, and the Ship, in Spite of our Endeavours, driving before the Sea +into the bight. The Ebb had been in our favour, and we had reason to +Suppose the flood which was now made would be against us. The only hopes +we had was another Opening we saw about a Mile to the Westward of us, +which I sent Lieutenant Hicks in the Small Boat to Examine. Latitude +observed 12 degrees 37 minutes South, the Main Land in Sight distant +about 10 Leagues.</p> + +<p>[Pass Again Inside Barrier Reef.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 17th. While Mr. Hicks was Examining the opening we struggled hard +with the flood, sometime gaining a little and at other times loosing. At +2 o'Clock Mr. Hicks returned with a favourable Account of the Opening. It +was immediately resolved to Try to secure the Ship in it. Narrow and +dangerous as it was, it seemed to be the only means we had of saving her, +as well as ourselves. A light breeze soon after sprung up at +East-North-East, with which, the help of our Boats, and a Flood Tide, we +soon entered the Opening, and was hurried thro' in a short time by a +Rappid Tide like a Mill race, which kept us from driving against either +side, though the Channel was not more than a 1/4 of a Mile broad, having +2 Boats ahead of us sounding.* (* This picture of the narrow escape from +total shipwreck is very graphic. Many a ship has been lost under similar +circumstances, without any idea of anchoring, which would often save a +vessel, as it is not often that a reef is so absolutely steep; but that +Cook had this possibility in his mind is clear. As a proof of the +calmness which prevailed on board, it may be mentioned that when in the +height of the danger, Mr. Green, Mr. Clerke, and Mr. Forwood the gunner, +were engaged in taking a Lunar, to obtain the longitude. The note in Mr. +Green's log is: "These observations were very good, the limbs of sun and +moon very distinct, and a good horizon. We were about 100 yards from the +reef, where we expected the ship to strike every minute, it being calm, +no soundings, and the swell heaving us right on.") Our deepth of water +was from 30 to 7 fathoms; very irregular soundings and foul ground until +we had got quite within the Reef, where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms, a +Coral and Shelly bottom. The Channel we came in by, which I have named +Providential Channell, bore East-North-East, distant 10 or 12 Miles, +being about 8 or 9 Leagues from the Main land, which extended from North +66 degrees West to South-West by South.</p> + +<p>It is but a few days ago that I rejoiced at having got without the Reef; +but that joy was nothing when Compared to what I now felt at being safe +at an Anchor within it. Such are the Visissitudes attending this kind of +Service, and must always attend an unknown Navigation where one steers +wholy in the dark without any manner of Guide whatever. Was it not from +the pleasure which Naturly results to a man from his being the first +discoverer, even was it nothing more than Land or Shoals, this kind of +Service would be insupportable, especially in far distant parts like +this, Short of Provisions and almost every other necessary. People will +hardly admit of an excuse for a Man leaving a Coast unexplored he has +once discovered. If dangers are his excuse, he is then charged with +Timerousness and want of Perseverance, and at once pronounced to be the +most unfit man in the world to be employ'd as a discoverer; if, on the +other hand, he boldly encounters all the dangers and Obstacles he meets +with, and is unfortunate enough not to succeed, he is then Charged with +Temerity, and, perhaps, want of Conduct. The former of these Aspersions, +I am confident, can never be laid to my Charge, and if I am fortunate to +Surmount all the Dangers we meet with, the latter will never be brought +in Question; altho' I must own that I have engaged more among the Islands +and Shoals upon this Coast than perhaps in prudence I ought to have done +with a single Ship* (* Cook was so impressed with the danger of one ship +alone being engaged in these explorations, that in his subsequent voyages +he asked for, and obtained, two vessels.) and every other thing +considered. But if I had not I should not have been able to give any +better account of the one half of it than if I had never seen it; at +best, I should not have been able to say wether it was Mainland or +Islands; and as to its produce, that we should have been totally ignorant +of as being inseparable with the other; and in this case it would have +been far more satisfaction to me never to have discover'd it. But it is +time I should have done with this Subject, which at best is but +disagreeable, and which I was lead into on reflecting on our late +Dangers.</p> + +<p>In the P.M., as the wind would not permit us to sail out by the same +Channel as we came in, neither did I care to move until the pinnace was +in better repair, I sent the Master with all the other Boats to the Reef +to get such refreshments as he could find, and in the meantime the +Carpenters were repairing the pinnace. Variations by the Amplitude and +Azimuth in the morning 4 degrees 9 minutes Easterly; at noon Latitude +observed 12 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude in 216 degrees 45 minutes +West. It being now about low water, I and some other of the officers went +to the Masthead to see what we could discover. Great part of the reef +without us was dry, and we could see an Opening in it about two Leagues +farther to the South-East than the one we came in by; we likewise saw 2 +large spots of sand to the Southward within the Reef, but could see +nothing to the Northward between it and the Main. On the Mainland within +us was a pretty high promontary, which I called Cape Weymouth (Latitude +12 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 217 degrees 15 minutes); and on +the North-West side of this Cape is a Bay, which I called Weymouth Bay.* +(* Viscount Weymouth was one of the Secretaries of State when the +Endeavour sailed.)</p> + +<p>Saturday, 18th. Gentle breezes at East and East-South-East. At 4 P.M. the +Boats return'd from the Reef with about 240 pounds of Shell-fish, being +the Meat of large Cockles, exclusive of the Shells. Some of these Cockles +are as large as 2 Men can move, and contain about 20 pounds of Meat, very +good. At 6 in the morning we got under sail, and stood away to the +North-West, as we could not expect a wind to get out to Sea by the same +Channel as we came in without waiting perhaps a long time for it, nor was +it advisable at this time to go without the Shoals, least we should by +them be carried so far off the Coast as not to be able to determine +wether or no New Guinea joins to or makes a part of this land. This +doubtful point I had from my first coming upon the Coast, determined, if +Possible, to clear up; I now came to a fix'd resolution to keep the Main +land on board, let the Consequence be what it will, and in this all the +Officers concur'd. In standing to the North-West we met with very +irregular soundings, from 10 to 27 fathoms, varying 5 or 6 fathoms almost +every Cast of the Lead. However, we keept on having a Boat ahead +sounding. A little before noon we passed a low, small, sandy Isle, which +we left on our Starboard side at the distance of 2 Miles. At the same +time we saw others, being part of large Shoals above water, away to the +North-East and between us and the Main land. At Noon we were by +observation in the Latitude of 12 degrees 28 minutes South, and 4 or 5 +Leagues from the Main, which extended from South by West to North 71 +degrees West, and some Small Islands extending from North 40 degrees West +to North 54 degrees West, the Main or outer Reef seen from the Masthead +away to the North-East.</p> + +<p>[Amongst Shoals off Cape Grenville.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 19th. Gentle breezes at South-East by East and Clear wether. At 2 +P.M., as we were steering North-West by North, saw a large shoal right +ahead, extending 3 or 4 points on each bow, upon which we hauld up +North-North-East and North-East by North, in order to get round to North +Point of it, which we reached by 4 o'clock, and then Edged away to the +westward, and run between the North end of this Shoal and another, which +lays 2 miles to the Northward of it, having a Boat all the time ahead +sounding. Our depth of Water was very irregular, from 22 to 8 fathoms. At +1/2 past 6 we Anchor'd in 13 fathoms; the Northermost of the Small +Islands mentioned at Noon bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Miles. These +Islands, which are known in the Chart by the name of Forbes's Isles,* (* +Admiral John Forbes was a Commissioner of Longitude in 1768, and had been +a Lord of the Admiralty from 1756 to 1763.) lay about 5 Leagues from the +Main, which here forms a moderate high point, which we called Bolt head, +from which the Land trends more westerly, and is all low, sandy Land, but +to the Southward it is high and hilly, even near the Sea. At 6 A.M. we +got under sail, and directed our Course for an Island which lay but a +little way from the Main, and bore from us at this time North 40 degrees +West, distant 5 Leagues; but we were soon interrupted in our Course by +meeting with Shoals, but by the help of 2 Boats ahead and a good lookout +at the Mast head we got at last into a fair Channel, which lead us down +to the Island, having a very large Shoal on our Starboard side and +several smaller ones betwixt us and the Main land. In this Channel we had +from 20 to 30 fathoms. Between 11 and 12 o'Clock we hauld round the +North-East side of the Island, leaving it between us and the Main from +which it is distant 7 or 8 Miles. This Island is about a League in +Circuit and of a moderate height, and is inhabited; to the North-West of +it are several small, low Islands and Keys, which lay not far from the +Main, and to the Northward and Eastward lay several other Islands and +Shoals, so that we were now incompassed on every side by one or the +other, but so much does a great danger Swallow up lesser ones, that these +once so much dreaded spots were now looked at with less concern. The +Boats being out of their Stations, we brought too to wait for them. At +Noon our Latitude by observation was 12 degrees 0 minutes South, +Longitude in 217 degrees 25 minutes West; depth of Water 14 fathoms; +Course and distance sail'd, reduced to a strait line, since yesterday +Noon is North 29 degrees West, 32 Miles. The Main land within the above +Islands forms a point, which I call Cape Grenville* (* George Grenville +was First Lord of the Admiralty for a few months in 1763, and afterwards +Prime Minister for two years.) (Latitude 11 degrees 58 minutes, Longitude +217 degrees 38 minutes); between this Cape and the Bolt head is a Bay, +which I Named Temple Bay.* (* Richard Earl Temple, brother of George +Grenville, was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1756.) East 1/2 North, 9 +Leagues from Cape Grenville, lay some tolerable high Islands, which I +called Sir Charles Hardy's Isles;* (* Admiral Sir C. Hardy was second in +command in Hawke's great action in Quiberon Bay, 1759.) those which lay +off the Cape I named Cockburn Isles.* (* Admiral George Cockburn was a +Commissioner of Longitude and Comptroller of the Navy when Cook left +England. Off Cape Grenville the Endeavour again got into what is now the +recognised channel along the land inside the reefs.)</p> + +<p>[Nearing Cape York, Queensland.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 20th. Fresh breezes at East-South-East. About one P.M. the +pinnace having got ahead, and the Yawl we took in Tow, we fill'd and +Steer'd North by West, for some small Islands we had in that direction. +After approaching them a little nearer we found them join'd or connected +together by a large Reef; upon this we Edged away North-West, and left +them on our Starboard hand, steering between them and the Island laying +off the Main, having a fair and Clear Passage; Depth of Water from 15 to +23 fathoms. At 4 we discover'd some low Islands and Rocks bearing +West-North-West, which we stood directly for. At half Past 6 we Anchor'd +on the North-East side of the Northermost, in 16 fathoms, distant from +the Island one Mile. This Isle lay North-West 4 Leagues from Cape +Grenville. On the Isles we saw a good many Birds, which occasioned my +calling them Bird Isles. Before and at Sunset we could see the Main land, +which appear'd all very low and sandy, Extends as far to the Northward as +North-West by North, and some Shoals, Keys, and low sandy Isles away to +the North-East of us. At 6 A.M. we got again under sail, with a fresh +breeze at East, and stood away North-North-West for some low Islands* (* +Boydong Keys.) we saw in that direction; but we had not stood long upon +this Course before we were obliged to haul close upon a wind in Order to +weather a Shoal which we discover'd on our Larboard bow, having at the +same time others to the Eastward of us. By such time as we had weathered +the Shoal to Leeward we had brought the Islands well upon our Leebow; but +seeing some Shoals spit off from them, and some rocks on our Starboard +bow, which we did not discover until we were very near them, made me +afraid to go to windward of the Islands; wherefore we brought too, and +made the signal for the pinnace, which was a head, to come on board, +which done, I sent her to Leeward of the Islands, with Orders to keep +along the Edge off the Shoal, which spitted off from the South side of +the Southermost Island. The Yawl I sent to run over the Shoals to look +for Turtle, and appointed them a Signal to make in case they saw many; if +not, she was to meet us on the other side of the Island. As soon as the +pinnace had got a proper distance from us we wore, and stood After her, +and run to Leeward of the Islands, where we took the Yawl in Tow, she +having seen only one small Turtle, and therefore made no Stay upon the +Shoal. Upon this Island, which is only a Small Spott of Land, with some +Trees upon it, we saw many Hutts and habitations of the Natives, which we +supposed come over from the Main to these Islands (from which they are +distant about 5 Leagues) to Catch Turtle at the time these Animals come +ashore to lay their Eggs. Having got the Yawl in Tow, we stood away after +the pinnace North-North-East and North by East to 2 other low Islands, +having 2 Shoals, which we could see without and one between us and the +Main. At Noon we were about 4 Leagues from the Main land, which we could +see Extending to the Northward as far as North-West by North, all low, +flat, and Sandy. Our Latitude by observation was 11 degrees 23 minutes +South, Longitude in 217 degrees 46 minutes West, and Course and distance +sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 22 degrees West, 40 Miles; soundings +from 14 to 23 fathoms. But these are best seen upon the Chart, as +likewise the Islands, Shoals, etc., which are too Numerous to be +Mentioned singly.* (* It is very difficult to follow Cook's track after +entering Providential Channel to this place. The shoals and islands were +so confusing that their positions are very vaguely laid down on Cook's +chart. It is easy to imagine how slow was his progress and tortuous his +course, with a boat ahead all the time constantly signalling shallow +water. Nothing is more trying to officers and men.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 21st. Winds at East by South and East-South-East, fresh breeze. +By one o'Clock we had run nearly the length of the Southermost of the 2 +Islands before mentioned, and finding that we could not well go to +windward of them without carrying us too far from the Main land, we bore +up, and run to Leeward, where we found a fair open passage. This done, we +steer'd North by West, in a parrallel direction with the Main land, +leaving a small Island between us and it, and some low sandy Isles and +Shoals without us, all of which we lost sight of by 4 o'Clock; neither +did we see any more before the sun went down, at which time the farthest +part of the Main in sight bore North-North-West 1/2 West. Soon after this +we Anchor'd in 13 fathoms, soft Ground, about five Leagues from the Land, +where we lay until day light, when we got again under sail, having first +sent the Yawl ahead to sound. We steer'd North-North-West by Compass from +the Northermost land in sight; Variation 3 degrees 6 minutes East. Seeing +no danger in our way we took the Yawl in Tow, and made all the Sail we +could until 8 o'Clock, at which time we discover'd Shoals ahead and on +our Larboard bow, and saw that the Northermost land, which we had taken +to be a part of the Main, was an Island, or Islands,* (*Now called Mount +Adolphus Islands.) between which and the Main their appeared to be a good +Passage thro' which we might pass by running to Leeward of the Shoals on +our Larboard bow, which was now pretty near us. Whereupon we wore and +brought too, and sent away the Pinnace and Yawl to direct us clear of the +Shoals, and then stood after them. Having got round the South-East point +of the Shoal we steer'd North-West along the South-West, or inside of it, +keeping a good lookout at the Masthead, having another Shoal on our +Larboard side; but we found a good Channel of a Mile broad between them, +wherein were from 10 to 14 fathoms. At 11 o'Clock, being nearly the +length of the Islands above mentioned, and designing to pass between them +and the Main, the Yawl, being thrown a stern by falling in upon a part of +the Shoal, She could not get over. We brought the Ship too, and Sent away +the Long boat (which we had a stern, and rigg'd) to keep in Shore upon +our Larboard bow, and the Pinnace on our Starboard; for altho' there +appear'd nothing in the Passage, yet I thought it necessary to take this +method, because we had a strong flood, which carried us on end very fast, +and it did not want much of high water. As soon as the Boats were ahead +we stood after them, and got through by noon, at which time we were by +observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South. +The nearest part of the Main, and which we soon after found to be the +Northermost,* (* Cape York, the northernmost point of Australia.) bore +West southerly, distant 3 or 4 Miles; the Islands which form'd the +passage before mentioned extending from North to North 75 degrees East, +distant 2 or 3 Miles. At the same time we saw Islands at a good distance +off extending from North by West to West-North-West, and behind them +another chain of high land, which we likewise judged to be Islands.* (* +The islands around Thursday Island.) The Main land we thought extended as +far as North 71 degrees West; but this we found to be Islands. The point +of the Main, which forms one side of the Passage before mentioned, and +which is the Northern Promontory of this Country, I have named York Cape, +in honour of his late Royal Highness, the Duke of York.* (* Edward +Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, was a brother of George III.) It lies +in the Longitude of 218 degrees 24 minutes West, the North point in the +Latitude of 10 degrees 37 minutes South, and the East point in 10 degrees +41 minutes. The land over and to the Southward of this last point is +rather low and very flatt as far inland as the Eye could reach, and looks +barren. To the Southward of the Cape the Shore forms a large open bay, +which I called Newcastle bay, wherein are some small, low Islands and +shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flatt, and sandy. The land +on the Northern part of the Cape is rather more hilly, and the shore +forms some small bays, wherein there appear'd to be good Anchorage, and +the Vallies appear'd to be tolerably well Cloathed with wood. Close to +the East point of the Cape are 3 small Islands, and a small Ledge of +rocks spitting off from one of them. There is also an Island laying close +to the North Point. The other Islands before spoke of lay about 4 Miles +without these; only two of them are of any extent. The Southermost is the +largest, and much higher than any part of the Main land. On the +North-West side of this Island seem'd to be good Anchorage, and Vallies +that to all appearance would afford both wood and fresh Water. These +Isles are known in the Chart by the name of York Isles.* (* Now called +Mount Adolphus Islands.) To the Southward and South-East of them, and +even to the Eastward and Northward, are several low Islands, rocks, and +Shoals. Our depth of Water in sailing between them and the Main was 12, +13, and 14 fathoms.* (* In this channel is the dangerous rock on which +the steamship Quetta was wrecked, with such terrible loss of life, in +1890. By the Endeavour's track she must have passed very near it.)</p> + +<p>[Land upon Possession Island.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 22nd. Gentle breezes at East by South and clear weather. We +had not steer'd above 3 or 4 Miles along shore to the westward before we +discover'd the land ahead to be Islands detached by several Channels from +the main land; upon this we brought too to Wait for the Yawl, and called +the other Boats on board, and after giving them proper instructions, sent +them away again to lead us thro' the Channell next the Main, and as soon +as the Yawl was on board made sail after them with the Ship. Soon after +we discover'd rocks and Shoals in this Channell, upon which I made the +Signal for the boats to lead thro' the next Channel to the Northward* (* +This led to Endeavour Strait, but the recognised track is the channel +farther north.) laying between the Islands, which they accordingly did, +we following with the Ship, and had not less than 5 fathoms; and this in +the narrowest part of the Channel, which was about a Mile and a 1/2 broad +from Island to Island. At 4 o'Clock we Anchor'd about a Mile and a 1/2 or +2 Miles within the Entrance in 6 1/2 fathoms, clear ground, distance from +the Islands on each side of us one Mile, the Main land extending away to +the South-West; the farthest point of which we could see bore from us +South 48 degrees West, and the Southermost point of the Islands, on the +North-West side of the Passage, bore South 76 degrees West. Between these +2 points we could see no land, so that we were in great hopes that we had +at last found out a Passage into the Indian seas; but in order to be +better informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander, upon the Islands which lies at the South-East point of +the Passage. Before and after we Anchor'd we saw a Number of People upon +this Island, Arm'd in the same manner as all the others we have seen, +Except one man, who had a bow and a bundle of Arrows, the first we have +seen upon this Coast. From the appearance of the people we expected they +would have opposed our landing; but as we approached the shore they all +made off, and left us in peaceable possession of as much of the Island as +served our purpose. After landing I went upon the highest hill, which, +however, was of no great height, yet no less than twice or thrice the +height of the Ship's Mastheads; but I could see from it no land between +South-West and West-South-West, so that I did not doubt but there was a +passage. I could see plainly that the lands laying to the North-West of +this passage were compos'd of a number of Islands of Various extent, both +for height and Circuit, ranged one behind another as far to the Northward +and Westward as I could see, which could not be less than 12 or 14 +Leagues.</p> + +<p>Having satisfied myself of the great Probability of a passage, thro' +which I intend going with the Ship, and therefore may land no more upon +this Eastern coast of New Holland, and on the Western side I can make no +new discovery, the honour of which belongs to the Dutch Navigators, but +the Eastern Coast from the Latitude of 38 degrees South down to this +place, I am confident, was never seen or Visited by any European before +us; and notwithstanding I had in the Name of his Majesty taken possession +of several places upon this Coast, I now once More hoisted English +Colours, and in the Name of His Majesty King George the Third took +possession of the whole Eastern coast from the above Latitude down to +this place by the Name of New Wales,* (* The Admiralty copy, as well as +that belonging to Her Majesty, calls it New South Wales. The island where +the ceremony was performed was named on Cook's chart Possession Island, +and is still so called.) together with all the Bays, Harbours, Rivers, +and Islands, situated upon the said Coast; after which we fired 3 Volleys +of small Arms, which were answer'd by the like number from the Ship.</p> + +<p>This done, we set out for the Ship, but were some time in getting on +board on account of a very Rapid Ebb Tide, which set North-East out of +the Passage. Ever since we came in amongst the Shoals this last time we +have found a Moderate Tide; the flood setting to the North-West and Ebb +to the South-East; at this place is high water at full and change of the +moon, about 1 or 2 o'Clock, and riseth and falleth upon a perpendicular +about 10 or 12 feet. We saw upon all the Adjacent Lands and Islands a +great number of smokes--a certain sign that they are inhabited--and we +have daily seen smokes on every part of the Coast we have lately been +upon. Between 7 and 8 o'Clock a.m. we saw several naked people, all or +most of them Women, down upon the beach picking up Shells, etc.; they had +not a single rag of any kind of Cloathing upon them, and both these and +those we saw yesterday were in every respect the same sort of People we +have seen everywhere upon the Coast. 2 or 3 of the Men we saw Yesterday +had on pretty large breast plates, which we supposed were made of pearl +Oyster Shells; this was a thing, as well as the Bow and Arrows, we had +not seen before. At low water, which hapned about 10 o'Clock, we got +under sail, and stood to the South-West, with a light breeze at East, +which afterwards veer'd to North by East, having the Pinnace ahead; depth +of Water from 6 to 10 fathoms, except in one place, were we passed over a +Bank of 5 fathoms. At Noon Possession Island, at the South-East entrance +of the Passage, bore North 53 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues; the +Western extream of the Main land in sight South 43 degrees West, distant +4 or 5 Leagues, being all exceeding low. The South-West point of the +largest Island* (* Prince of Wales Island.) on the North-West side of the +passage bore North 71 degrees West, distant 8 Miles; this point I named +Cape Cornwall (Latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes South, Longitude 218 +degrees 59 minutes West),* (* This longitude is 70 minutes too far west, +and one of the worst given in the Journal. There were no observations, +and the dead reckoning among the shoals was difficult to keep.) and some +low Islands lying about the Middle of the Passage, which I called +Wallace's Isles, bore West by South 1/2 South, distance about 2 Leagues. +Our Latitude by Observation was 10 degrees 46 minutes South.</p> + +<p>[In Endeavour Strait, Torres Strait.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 23rd. In the P.M. had little wind and Variable, with which and +the Tide of Flood we keept advancing to the West-North-West; depth of +Water 8, 7, and 5 fathoms. At 1/2 past 1 the pinnace, which was ahead, +made the Signal for Shoal Water, upon which we Tackt and sent away the +Yawl to sound also, and then Tack'd again, and stood after them with the +Ship; 2 hours after this they both at once made the Signal for having +Shoal water. I was afraid to stand on for fear of running aground at that +time of the Tide, and therefore came to an Anchor in 1/4 less 7 fathoms, +sandy ground. Wallice's Islands bore South by West 1/2 West, distant 5 or +6 Miles, the Islands to the Northward extending from North 73 degrees +East to North 10 degrees East, and a small island* (* Booby Island.) just +in sight bearing North-West 1/2 West. Here we found the flood Tide set to +the Westward and Ebb to the Contrary. After we had come to Anchor I sent +away the Master with the Long boat to sound, who, upon his return in the +evening, reported that there was a bank stretching North and South, upon +which were 3 fathoms Water, and behind it 7 fathoms. We had it Calm all +Night and until 9 in the morning, at which time we weigh'd, with a light +breeze at South-South-East, and steer'd North-West by West for the Small +Island above mentioned, having first sent the Boats ahead to sound; depth +of Water 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms when upon the Bank,* (* The +Endeavour Strait is now little used, on account of this great bank, which +nearly bars its western part. There is, however, deeper water than Cook +found, a few miles to the southward; but it is just the difficulty of +finding this narrow pass, so far from land, and the fact that there is a +deep though narrow channel north of Prince of Wales Island, that has +caused it to be abandoned. The passage of Torres Strait is, however, +still an anxious bit of navigation.) it being now the last Quarter Ebb. +At this time the most Northermost Islands we had in sight bore North 9 +degrees East; the South-West point of the largest Islands on the +North-West side of the Passage, which I named Cape Cornwall, bore East; +distant 3 Leagues. This bank, at least so much as we sounded, extends +nearly North and South, how far I cannot say; its breadth, however, is +not more than 1/4 or at most 1/2 a Mile. Being over the Bank, we deepned +our water to a 1/4 less 7 fathoms, which depth we carried all the way to +the small Island ahead, which we reached by Noon, at which time it bore +South, distant near 1/2 a Mile; depth of Water 5 fathoms. The most +northermost land we had in sight (being part of the same Chain of Islands +we have had to the Northward of us since we entered the Passage) bore +North 71 degrees East; Latitude in, by Observation, 10 degrees 33 minutes +South, Longitude 219 degrees 22 minutes West. In this situation we had no +part of the Main land in sight. Being now near the island, and having but +little wind, Mr. Banks and I landed upon it, and found it to be mostly a +barren rock frequented by Birds, such as Boobies, a few of which we +shott, and occasioned my giving it the name of Booby Island.* (* Booby +Island is now the great landmark for ships making Torres Strait from the +westward. There is a light upon it.) I made but very short stay at this +Island before I return'd to the Ship; in the meantime the wind had got to +the South-West, and although it blow'd but very faint, yet it was +accompanied with a Swell from the same quarter. This, together with other +concuring Circumstances, left me no room to doubt but we had got to the +Westward of Carpentaria, or the Northern extremity of New Holland, and +had now an open Sea to the Westward; which gave me no small satisfaction, +not only because the danger and fatigues of the Voyage was drawing near +to an end, but by being able to prove that New Holland and New Guinea are +2 separate Lands or Islands, which until this day hath been a doubtful +point with Geographers.* (* Luis Vaez de Torres, commanding a Spanish +ship in company with Quiros in 1605, separated from his companion in the +New Hebrides. He afterwards passed through the Strait separating New +Guinea from Australia, which now bears his name. This fact, however, was +little known, as the Spaniards suppressed all account of the voyage; and +though it leaked out later, the report was so vague that it was very much +doubted whether he had really passed this way. On most charts and maps of +the period, New Guinea was shown joined to Australia, and to Cook the +establishment of the Strait may fairly be given. Only the year before +Bougainville, the French navigator, who preceded Cook across the Pacific, +and who was steering across the Coral Sea on a course which would have +led him to Lizard Island, abandoned his search in that direction, after +falling in with two reefs to the eastward of the Barrier, because he +feared falling amongst other shoals, and had no faith whatever in the +reports of the existence of Torres Strait. Had he persevered, he would +have snatched from Cook the honour of the complete exploration of Eastern +Australia, and of the verification of the passage between it and New +Guinea. Bougainville paid dearly for his caution, as he found that +retracing his steps against the trade wind, in order to pass eastward and +northward of New Guinea, occupied such a weary time, that he and his +people were nearly starved before they reached a place of refreshment.)</p> + +<p>[Description of Endeavour Strait.]</p> + +<p>The North-East entrance of this passage or Strait lies in the Latitude of +10 degrees 27 minutes South, and in the Longitude of 218 degrees 36 +minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich.* (* As before mentioned, +this longitude is over a degree in error. The sun was not available for +lunars until the 24th August, and the first was observed on the 25th, +when the ship was at Booby Island; but the result is not recorded in Mr. +Green's log. Mr. Green was at this time ill. The latitude is a clerical +error for 10.37, which Cook's chart shows, and is nearly correct.) It is +form'd by the Main, or the northern extremity of New Holland, on the +South-East, and by a Congeries of Islands to North-West, which I named +Prince of Wales's Islands. It is very Probable that the Islands extend +quite to New Guinea;* (* This conjecture was very near the truth. The +whole of Torres Strait is obstructed by either islands or reefs that +leave very little passage.) they are of Various Extent both for height +and Circuit, and many of them seem'd to be indifferently well Cloath'd +with wood, etc., and, from the smokes we saw, some, if not all of them, +must be inhabited. It is also very probable that among these Islands are +as good, if not better, passages than the one we have come thro', altho' +one need hardly wish for a better, was the access to it from the Eastward +less dangerous; but this difficulty will remain until some better way is +found out than the one we came, which no doubt may be done was it ever to +become an object to be looked for.* (* It is the western and not the +eastern approach of Endeavour Strait that forms the difficulty, now the +locality has been charted, for vessels of deeper draught than the +Endeavour; though for small craft, as Cook says, you can hardly wish for +a better.) The northern Extent of the Main or outer reef, which limit or +bounds the Shoals to the Eastward, seems to be the only thing wanting to +Clear up this point; and this was a thing I had neither time nor +inclination to go about, having been already sufficiently harrass'd with +dangers without going to look for more.* (* The east coast of Australia, +which Cook had now followed from end to end, is 2000 miles in extent. He +took four months over it, much less time than he had given to New +Zealand; but this is easily accounted for. His people were getting worn +out, and he was haunted by fears of not getting off the coast before the +North-West monsoon set in, which would have been a foul wind for him in +getting from Torres Straits to Batavia, and his provisions were running +short. Besides this, there was the grave doubt whether Australia and New +Guinea were really separated. If this turned out to be false, there was a +long round to make, back to the eastern extremity of the latter, and the +voyage to Batavia would have been infinitely extended. Considering these +circumstances, Cook's exploration of the coast was wonderful, and the +charts attached to this book attest the skill and unwearied pains taken +in mapping it from such a cursory glance. He only stopped at four places: +Botany Bay, Bustard Bay, Thirsty Sound, and the Endeavour River; and from +the neighbourhood of these, with the view obtained as he coasted along, +he had to form his opinion of the country--an opinion, as we shall see, +singularly correct.)</p> + +<p>This passage, which I have named Endeavour Straits, after the Name of the +Ship, is in length North-East and South-West 10 Leagues, and about 5 +leagues broad, except at the North-East entrance, where it is only 2 +Miles broad by reason of several small Islands which lay there, one of +which, called Possession Island, is of a Moderate height and Circuit; +this we left between us and the Main, passing between it and 2 Small +round Islands, which lay North-West 2 Miles from it. There are also 2 +Small low Islands, called Wallice's Isles,* (* These are probably called +after Captain Wallis, who made a voyage across the Pacific in the Dolphin +in 1767, and discovered Tahiti.) laying in the Middle of the South-West +entrance, which we left to the southward; the depth of Water we found in +the Straits was from 4 to 9 fathoms. Every where good Anchorage, only +about 2 Leagues to the Northward of Wallice's Islands is a Bank, whereon +is not more than 3 fathoms at low Water, but probable there might be +found more was it sought for. I have not been particular in describing +this Strait, no more than I have been in pointing out the respective +Situations of the Islands, Shoals, etc., on the Coast of New Wales; for +these I refer to the Chart, where they are deliniated with all the +accuracy that Circumstances would admit of.</p> + +<p>With respect to the Shoals that lay upon this Coast I must observe, for +the benefit of those who may come after me, that I do not believe the one +1/2 of them are laid down in my Chart; for it would be Absurd to suppose +that we Could see or find them all. And the same thing may in some +Measure be said of the Islands, especially between the Latitude of 20 and +22 degrees, where we saw Islands out at Sea as far as we could +distinguish any thing. However, take the Chart in general, and I believe +it will be found to contain as few Errors as most Sea Charts which have +not undergone a thorough correction.* (* Cook's pride in his chart is +well justified, as its general accuracy is marvellous, when one considers +that he simply sailed along the coast. The great feature of this shore, +however--the Barrier Reef--only appears on it at its northern end, where +its approach to the land caused Cook to make such unpleasant acquaintance +with it. See charts.) The Latitude and Longitude of all, or most of, the +principal head lands, Bays, etc., may be relied on, for we seldom fail'd +of getting an Observation every day to correct our Latitude by, and the +Observation for settling the Longitude were no less Numerous, and made as +often as the Sun and Moon came in play; so that it was impossible for any +Material error to creep into our reckoning in the intermediate times. In +justice to Mr. Green,* (* From this phrase, and from various remarks in +Mr. Green's own log, it would appear that Mr. Green was not very easy to +get on with; but there is no doubt of his unwearied zeal in astronomical +observations.) I must say that he was indefatigable in making and +calculating these observations, which otherwise must have taken up a +great deal of my time, which I could not at all times very well spare; +not only this, but by his instructions several of the petty Officers can +make and calculate these observations almost as well as himself. It is +only by such Means that this method of finding the Longitude at Sea can +be put into universal practice; a Method that we have generally found may +be depended upon within 1/2 a degree, which is a degree of Accuracy more +than sufficient for all Nautical purposes. Would Sea Officers once apply +themselves to the making and calculating these Observations they would +not find them so very difficult as they at first imagine, especially with +the Assistance of the Nautical Almanack and Astronomical Ephemeris, by +the help of which the Calculation for finding the Longitude takes up but +little more time than that of an Azimuth for finding the Variation of the +Compass; but unless this Ephemeris is Published for some time to come, +more than either one or 2 Years, it can never be of general use in long +Voyages, and in short Voyages it's not so much wanted.* (* The "Nautical +Almanac" was first published for 1767. That for 1770 was not published +until 1769; but it seems probable that Cook either had proof sheets, or +the manuscript calculations.) Without it the Calculations are Laborious +and discouraging to beginners, and such as are not well vers'd in these +kind of Calculations.</p> + +<p>[Account of New South Wales Coast.]</p> + +<p>SOME ACCOUNT OF NEW WALES.* (* Called in Admiralty and the Queen's Copy +New South Wales. It would appear that for this part of the voyage Mr. +Corner's copy was the first written, and that Cook's first idea was to +christen the country New Wales.)</p> + +<p>In the Course of this Journal I have at different times made mention of +the Appearance or Aspect of the face of the Country, the Nature of the +Soil, its produce, etc. By the first it will appear that to the Southward +of 33 or 34 degrees the land in general is low and level, with very few +Hills or Mountains; further to the Northward it may in some places be +called a Hilly, but hardly anywhere can be called a Mountainous, Country, +for the Hills and Mountains put together take up but a small part of the +Surface in Comparison to what the Planes and Valleys do which intersect +or divide these Hills and Mountains. It is indifferently well water'd, +even in the dry Seasons, with small brooks and Springs, but no great +Rivers, unless it be in the Wet Season, when the low lands and Vallies +near the Sea, I do suppose, are mostly laid under Water. The Small Brooks +may then become large Rivers; but this can only happen with the Tropick. +It was only in Thirsty Sound that we could find no fresh Water, and that +no doubt was owing to the Country being there very much intersected with +Salt Creeks and Mangrove land.</p> + +<p>The low land by the Sea, and even as far in land as we were, is for the +most part friable, loose, sandy Soil yet indifferently fertile, and +Cloathed with woods, long grass, shrubs, plants, etc. The Mountains or +Hills are checquer'd with woods and Lawns; some of the Hills are wholy +cover'd with Flourishing Trees; others but thinly, and the few that are +upon them are small, and the spot of Lawns or Savannahs are rocky and +barren, especially to the Northward, where the Country did not afford or +produce near the Vegetation that it does to the Southward, nor were the +Trees in the Woods half so tall and stout. The Woods do not produce any +great variety of Trees; there are only 2 or 3 sorts that can be called +Timber. The largest is the gum Tree, which grows all over the country; +the wood of this Tree is too hard and ponderous for most common uses. The +Tree which resembles our Pines I saw nowhere in perfection but in Botany +Bay; this wood, as I have before observed, is something of the same +Nature as American Live Oak; in short, most of the large Trees in this +Country are of a hard and ponderous nature, and could not be applied to +many purposes. Here are several sorts of the Palm kind, Mangrove, and +several other sorts of small Trees and Shrubs quite unknown to me, +besides a very great number of Plants hitherto unknown; but these things +are wholy out of my way to describe, nor will this be of any loss, since +not only plants, but every thing that can be of use to the Learned World +will be very accurately described by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The Land +naturally produces hardly anything fit for Man to eat, and the Natives +know nothing of Cultivation. There are, indeed, growing wild in the wood +a few sorts of Fruit (the most of them unknown to us), which when ripe do +not eat amiss, one sort especially, which we called Apples, being about +the size of a Crab Apple it is black and pulpey when ripe, and tastes +like a Damson; it hath a large hard stone or Kernel, and grows on Trees +or Shrubs.* (* The Black Apple, or Sapota Australis.)</p> + +<p>In the Northern parts of the Country, as about Endeavour River, and +probably in many other places, the Boggy or watery Lands produce Taara or +Cocos,* (* A species of Taro, Colocasia macrorhiza.) which, when properly +cultivated, are very good roots, without which they are hardly eatable; +the Tops, however, make very good greens.</p> + +<p>Land Animals are scarce, so far as we know confin'd to a very few +species; all that we saw I have before mentioned. The sort which is in +the greatest Plenty is the Kangooroo or Kanguru, so called by the +Natives; we saw a good many of them about Endeavour River, but kill'd +only 3, which we found very good Eating. Here are likewise Lizards, +Snakes, Scorpions, Centapees, etc., but not in any plenty. Tame Animals +they have none but Dogs, and of these we saw but one, and therefore must +be very scarce, probably they eat them faster than they breed them; we +should not have seen this one had he not made us frequent Visits while we +lay in Endeavour River.</p> + +<p>The land Fowls are Bustards, Eagles, Hawks, Crows, such as we have in +England, Cockatoes of 2 sorts, White and Brown, very beautiful Birds of +the Parrot kind, such as Lorryquets, etc., Pidgeons, Doves, Quails, and +several sorts of smaller birds. The Sea and Water Fowls are Herons, +Boobies, Noddies, Guls, Curlews, Ducks, Pelicans, etc., and when Mr. +Banks and Mr. Gore where in the Country, at the head of Endeavour River, +they saw and heard in the Night great numbers of Geese. The Sea is +indifferently well stocked with fish of Various sorts, such as Sharks, +Dog-fish, Rockfish, Mullets, Breams, Cavallies, Mack'rel, old wives, +Leather Jackets, Five Fingers,* (* Old wives are Enoploxus Armatus; +Leather jackets, Monacanthus; Five fingers, Chilodactylus.) Sting rays, +Whip rays, etc., all excellent in their kind. The Shell fish are Oysters +of 3 or 4 sorts, viz., Rock Oysters and Mangrove Oysters, which are +small, Pearl Oysters and Mud Oysters; these last are the best and Largest +I ever saw. Cockles and Clams of several sorts, many of those that are +found upon the Reefs are of a prodigious size, Craw fish, Crabs, Muscles, +and a variety of other sorts. Here are also upon the Shoals and Reefs +great Numbers of the finest Green Turtle in the world, and in the River +and Salt Creeks are some Aligators.</p> + +<p>[Australian Natives.]</p> + +<p>The Natives of this Country are of a middle Stature, streight Bodied and +Slender limb'd; their Skins the Colour of Wood soot, their Hair mostly +black, some Lank and others curled; they all wear it Cropt Short; their +Beards, which are generally black, they likewise crop short, or Singe +off. There features are far from being disagreeable, and their Voices are +soft and Tunable. They go quite Naked, both Men and Women, without any +manner of Cloathing whatever; even the Women do not so much as cover +their privities, altho' None of us was ever very near any of their Women, +one Gentleman excepted, yet we are all of us as well satisfied of this as +if we had lived among them. Notwithstanding we had several interviews +with the Men while we lay in Endeavour River, yet, wether through +Jealousy or disregard, they never brought any of their women along with +them to the Ship, but always left them on the Opposite side of the River, +where we had frequent Opportunities viewing them thro' our Glasses. They +wear as Ornaments, Necklaces made of Shells, Bracelets, or Hoops, about +their Arms, made mostly of Hair Twisted and made like a Cord Hoop; these +they wear tight about the upper parts of their Arms, and some have +Girdles made in the same manner. The Men wear a bone, about 3 or 4 Inches +long and a finger's thick, run thro' the Bridge* (* The cartilage of the +nostril. Banks mentions that the bluejackets called this queer ornament +the "spritsail yard.") of their Nose; they likewise have holes in their +Ears for Ear Rings, but we never saw them wear any; neither are all the +other Ornaments wore in Common, for we have seen as many without as with +them. Some of these we saw on Possession Island wore breast plates, which +we supposed were made of Mother of Pearl Shells. Many of them paint their +Bodies and faces with a Sort of White paste or Pigment; this they apply +different ways, each according to his fancy.</p> + +<p>Their offensive weapons are Darts; some are only pointed at one end, +others are barb'd, some with wood, others with Stings of rays, and some +with Sharks' Teeth, etc.; these last are stuck fast on with Gum. They +throw the Darts with only one hand, in the doing of which they make use +of a piece of wood about 3 feet long, made thin like the blade of a +Cutlass, with a little hook at one End to take hold of the End of the +dart, and at the other end is fix'd a thin piece of bone about 3 or 4 +Inches long; the use of this is, I believe, to keep the dart steady, and +to make it quit the hand in a proper direction. By the helps of these +throwing sticks, as we call them, they will hit a mark at the Distance of +40 or 50 yards, with almost, if not as much, Certainty as we can do with +a Musquet, and much more so than with a ball.* (* The invention of these +throwing sticks, and of the Boomerang, is sufficient to prove the +intelligence of the Australian aborigines.) These throwing sticks we at +first took for wooden swords, and perhaps on some occasions they may use +them as such; that is, when all their darts are expended. Be this as it +may, they never Travel without both them and their Darts, not for fear of +Enemies, but for killing of Game, etc., as I shall show hereafter. There +defensive weapons are Targets, made of wood; but these we never saw used +but once in Botany Bay.</p> + +<p>I do not look upon them to be a warlike people; on the contrary, I think +them a Timerous and inoffensive race, no ways inclined to Cruelty, as +appear'd from their behaviour to one of our people in Endeavour River, +which I have before mentioned, neither are they very numerous. They live +in small parties along by the Sea Coast, the banks of Lakes, Rivers, +Creeks, etc. They seem to have no fixed habitation, but move about from +place to place like wild beasts in search of Food, and, I believe, depend +wholy upon the Success of the present day for their Subsistance. They +have wooden fish Gigs, with 2, 3, or 4 prongs, each very ingeniously +made, with which they strike fish. We have also seen them strike both +fish and birds with their Darts. With these they likewise kill other +Animals; they have also wooden Harpoons for striking Turtle, but of these +I believe they get but few, except at the seasons they come ashore to +lay. In short, these people live wholy by fishing and hunting, but mostly +by the former, for we never saw one Inch of Cultivated land in the whole +Country. They know, however, the use of Taara, and sometimes eat them; we +do not know that they Eat anything raw, but roast or broil all they eat +on slow small fires. Their Houses are mean, small Hovels, not much bigger +than an Oven, made of Peices of Sticks, Bark, Grass, etc., and even these +are seldom used but in the Wet seasons, for in the daytimes we know they +as often sleep in the Open Air as anywhere else. We have seen many of +their Sleeping places, where there has been only some branches or peices +of Bark, grass, etc., about a foot high on the Windward side.</p> + +<p>[Australian Canoes.]</p> + +<p>Their Canoes are as mean as can be conceived, especially to the +Southward, where all we saw were made of one peice of the Bark of Trees +about 12 or 14 feet long, drawn or Tied together at one end. As I have +before made mention, these Canoes will not Carry above 2 people, in +general there is never more than one in them; but, bad as they are, they +do very well for the purpose they apply them to, better than if they were +larger, for as they draw but little water they go in them upon the Mud +banks, and pick up Shell fish, etc., without going out of the Canoe. The +few Canoes we saw to the Northward were made out of a Log of wood +hollow'd out, about 14 feet long and very narrow, with outriggers; these +will carry 4 people. During our whole stay in Endeavour River we saw but +one Canoe, and had great reason to think that the few people that resided +about that place had no more; this one served them to cross the River and +to go a Fishing in, etc. They attend the Shoals, and flatts, one where or +another, every day at low water to gather Shell fish, or whatever they +can find to eat, and have each a little bag to put what they get in; this +bag is made of net work. They have not the least knowledge of Iron or any +other Metal that we know of; their working Tools must be made of Stone, +bone, and Shells; those made of the former are very bad, if I may judge +from one of their Adzes I have seen.</p> + +<p>Bad and mean as their Canoes are, they at Certain seasons of the Year (so +far as we know) go in them to the most distant Islands which lay upon the +Coast, for we never landed upon one but what we saw signs of People +having been there before. We were surprized to find Houses, etc., upon +Lizard Island, which lies 5 Leagues from the nearest part of the Main; a +distance we before thought they could not have gone in their Canoes.</p> + +<p>The Coast of this Country, at least so much of it as lays to the +Northward of 25 degrees of Latitude, abounds with a great Number of fine +bays and Harbours, which are Shelter'd from all winds; but the Country +itself, so far as we know, doth not produce any one thing that can become +an Article in Trade to invite Europeans to fix a settlement upon it. +However, this Eastern side is not that barren and miserable country that +Dampier and others have described the Western side to be. We are to +consider that we see this country in the pure state of nature; the +Industry of Man has had nothing to do with any part of it, and yet we +find all such things as nature hath bestow'd upon it in a flourishing +state. In this Extensive Country it can never be doubted but what most +sorts of Grain, Fruit, roots, etc., of every kind would flourish here +were they once brought hither, planted and Cultivated by the hands of +Industry; and here are Provender for more Cattle, at all seasons of the +Year, than ever can be brought into the Country.* (* It says a good deal +for Cook's penetration that he wrote like this, for the coast of +Australia is not promising, especially in the dry season; and coming as +he did from the more apparently fertile countries of Tahiti and New +Zealand, Australia must have appeared but a barren land.) When one +considers the Proximity of this Country with New Guinea, New Britain, and +several other Islands which produce Cocoa Nutts and many other fruits +proper for the support of man, it seems strange that they should not long +ago be Transplanted here; by its not being done it should seem that the +Natives of this Country have no commerce with their Neighbours, the New +Guineans.* (* The climate is too dry for the cocoanut palm.) It is very +probable that they are a different people, and speak a different +Language. For the advantage of such as want to Clear up this point I +shall add a small Vocabulary of a few Words in the New Holland Language +which we learnt when in Endeavour River.* (* The languages of the +different tribes differ very much. This results from the continual state +of war in which they live, as they have no communication the one with the +other.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: NEW HOLLAND.</p> + +<p>The Head : Whageegee. +The Hair of the head : Morye or More. +The Eyes : Meul. +The Ears : Melea. +The Lips : Yembe or Jembi. +The Teeth : Mulere or Moile. +The Chinn : Jaeal. +The Beard : Waller. +The Tongue : Unjar. +The Nose : Bonjoo. +The Naval : Toolpoor or Julpur. +The Penis : Keveil or Kerrial. +The Scrotum : Coonal or Kunnol. +The Arms : Aw or Awl. +The Hand : Marigal. +The Thumb : Eboorbalga. +The Fore, Middle and Ring fingers : Egalbaiga. +Little Finger : Nakil or Eboonakil. +The Thighs : Coman. +The Knees : Ponga. +The Legs : Peegoorgo. +The Feet : Edamal. +The Nails : Kolke or Kulke. +A Stone : Walba. +Sand : Joo'wal, Yowall, or Joralba. +A Rope or Line : Goorgo or Gurka. +Fire : Maianang or Meanang. +The Sun : Galan or Gallan. +The Sky : Kere or Kearre. +A Father : Dunjo. +A Son : Jumurre. +A Man : Bamma or Ba ma. +A Dog : Cotta or Kota. +A Lorryquet : Perpere or Pier-pier. +A Cocatoo : Wanda. +Male Turtle : Poonja or Poinja. +Female : Mamingo. +A great Cockle : Moenjo or Moingo. +Cocos Yams : Maracotu (?). +A Canoe : Maragan.</p> + +<p>[Australian Natives.]</p> + +<p>From what I have said of the Natives of New Holland they may appear to +some to be the most wretched People upon Earth; but in reality they are +far more happier than we Europeans, being wholy unacquainted not only +with the Superfluous, but with the necessary Conveniences so much sought +after in Europe; they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live +in a Tranquility which is not disturbed by the Inequality of Condition. +The earth and Sea of their own accord furnishes them with all things +necessary for Life. They covet not Magnificient Houses, Household-stuff, +etc.; they live in a Warm and fine Climate, and enjoy every wholesome +Air, so that they have very little need of Cloathing; and this they seem +to be fully sencible of, for many to whom we gave Cloth, etc., left it +carelessly upon the Sea beach and in the Woods, as a thing they had no +manner of use for; in short, they seem'd to set no Value upon anything we +gave them, nor would they ever part with anything of their own for any +one Article we could offer them. This, in my opinion, Argues that they +think themselves provided with all the necessarys of Life, and that they +have no Superfluities.* (* The native Australians may be happy in their +condition, but they are without doubt among the lowest of mankind. +Confirmed cannibals, they lose no opportunity of gratifying their love of +human flesh. Mothers will kill and eat their own children, and the women +again are often mercilessly illtreated by their lords and masters. There +are no chiefs, and the land is divided into sections, occupied by +families, who consider everything in their district as their own. +Internecine war exists between the different tribes, which are very +small. Their treachery, which is unsurpassed, is simply an outcome of +their savage ideas, and in their eyes is a form of independence which +resents any intrusion on THEIR land, THEIR wild animals, and THEIR rights +generally. In their untutored state they therefore consider that any +method of getting rid of the invader is proper. Both sexes, as Cook +observed, are absolutely nude, and lead a wandering life, with no fixed +abode, subsisting on roots, fruits, and such living things as they can +catch. Nevertheless, although treated by the coarser order of colonists +as wild beasts to be extirpated, those who have studied them have formed +favourable opinions of their intelligence. The more savage side of their +disposition being, however, so very apparent, it is not astonishing that, +brought into contact with white settlers, who equally consider that they +have a right to settle, the aborigines are rapidly disappearing.)</p> + +<p>I shall conclude the account of this Country with a few observations on +the Currents and Tides upon the Coast, because I have mentioned in the +Course of this Journal that the latter hath sometimes set one way and +sometimes another, which I shall Endeavour to account for in the best +manner I can. From the Latitude of 32 degrees, or above downwards to +Sandy Cape in the Latitude of 24 degrees 46 minutes, we constantly found +a Current setting to the Southward at the rate of 10 or 15 Miles per Day, +more or less, according to the distance we were from the land, for it +runs stronger in shore than in the Offing. All this time I had not been +able to satisfy myself whether the flood-tide came from the Southward, +Eastward, or Northward, but judged it to come from the South-East; but +the first time we anchor'd upon the coast, which was in the Latitude of +24 degrees 30 minutes, and about 10 Leagues to the South-East of Bustard +Bay, we found there the flood to come from the North-West. On the +Contrary, 30 Leagues further to the North-West, on the South side of +Keppel Bay, we found the Flood to come from the East, and at the Northern +part of the said Bay we found it come from the Northward, but with a much +Slower Motion than the Easterly Tide. Again, on the East side of the Bay +of Inlets we found the flood to set strong to the Westward as far as the +Op'ning of Broad sound, but on the North side of that sound the flood +come with a Slow motion from the North-West; and when at Anchor before +Repulse bay we found the flood to come from the northward. We need only +admit the flood tide to come from the East or South-East, and then all +these seeming Contradictions will be found to be conformable to reason +and experience. It is well known that where there are deep Inlets, large +Creeks, etc., into low lands, that it is not occasioned by fresh water +Rivers; there is a very great indraught of the Flood Tide, the direction +of which will be determin'd according to the possition or direction of +the Coast which forms the Entrance into such Inlets; and this direction +the Tide must follow, let it be ever so contrary to their general Course +out at Sea, and where the Tides are weak, as they are in general upon +this Coast, a large Inlet will, if I may so call it, attract the Flood +tide for many Leagues. Any one need only cast an Eye over the Chart to be +made sencible of what I have advanced. To the Northward of Whitsundays +Passage there are few or no large Inlets, and consequently the Flood sets +to the Northward or North-West, according to the direction of the Coast, +and Ebb the Contrary; but this is to be understood at a little distance +from land, or where there is no Creeks or Inlets, for where such are, be +they ever so small, they draw the flood from the Southward, Eastward, and +Northward, and, as I found by experience, while we lay in Endeavour +River.* (* Cook's reasoning on the course of the flood stream is quite +sound.) Another thing I have observed upon the Tides which ought to be +remarked, which is that there is only one high Tide in 24 Hours, and that +is the night Tide. On the Spring Tides the difference between the +perpendicular rise of the night and day Tides is not less than 3 feet, +which is a great deal where the Tides are so inconsiderable, as they are +here.* (* This difference in the heights of consecutive tides is termed +the diurnal inequality. It results from the tide wave being made up of a +large number of undulations, some caused by the moon, some by the sun; +some occurring twice a day, others only once. It occurs in all parts of +the world, but is inconspicuous on the coasts of Europe. In Australia it +is very marked, and occasions the night tides to be the highest at one +time of the year, when the Endeavour was on the coast, and the day tides +at the other. There are places on the east coast of Australia where the +range of the tide is very great, but Cook did not anchor at any of them.) +This inequality of the Tide I did not observe till we run ashore; perhaps +it is much more so to the Northward than to the Southward. After we had +got within the Reefs the second time we found the Tides more considerable +than at any time before, except in the Bay of Inlets. It may be owing to +the water being confin'd in Channels between the Shoals, but the flood +always set to the North-West to the extremity of New Wales, from thence +West and South-West into the India Seas.</p> + +<p>[Historical Notes, East Coast of Australia.]</p> + +<p>HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.</p> + +<p>PREVIOUS to Cook's visit no European, so far as is known, had ever +sighted the East Coast of Australia, or, as it was then called, New +Holland. The Dutch had examined and mapped the shores from the Gulf of +Carpentaria on the north round by the west to Van Dieman's Land or +Tasmania, but had not decided whether the latter was a part of the +mainland or no. Dampier, in 1699, had the intention of passing south to +explore the unknown eastern shore, but never carried it out, confining +his attention to the northern part of the west coast, with which, and +with good reason, he was not favourably impressed.</p> + +<p>On all maps of the time, the east coast, from Tasmania to the north, was +shown as a dotted and more or less straight line, Tasmania being joined +at the south, and generally New Guinea at the north.</p> + +<p>There is indeed one manuscript known as the Dauphin's Map, a copy of +which is in the British Museum, of the date of about 1540, which shows a +certain amount of the north-east coast, and has been thought by some to +prove that some one had visited it. But an inspection of it shows that it +is far more probably a case of imaginative coast drawing, such as occurs +in other places in the same map, and in many others of the same and later +dates, and there is certainly no record of any voyage to this coast.</p> + +<p>After Cook's exploration it remained unvisited until 1788, when, owing +mainly to Banks' influence, Botany Bay was pitched upon as a convict +settlement, and a squadron, consisting of H.M.S. Sirius, the Supply brig, +3 storeships, and 6 transports, under the command of Captain Arthur +Phillip, R.N., which had sailed from England on May 13th, 1787, arrived +in that bay on January 18th, 1788, but immediately moved into Port +Jackson, where the settlement of Sydney was formed.</p> + +<p>The early history of the Colony was one of struggle and starvation, and +it was many years before any prosperity was attained. In 1839 the +deportation of convicts ceased, but it was not until 1851, when gold was +found, that free settlers in any large number came to the Colony.</p> + +<p>Queensland, formerly the northern part of New South Wales, was formed a +separate Colony in 1859.</p> + +<p>A white population of about 1,500,000 now inhabits the eastern part of +Australia, first explored by Cook, and their numbers are rapidly +increasing.</p> + +<p>Although the products of the Colonies are mainly agricultural and +mineral, a very large proportion of this population are in the large +towns.</p> + +<p>Sydney contains 230,000, Newcastle 20,000, Brisbane 55,000, Rockhampton +13,000.</p> + +<p>Wool, one of the staple products, is obtained from some 80,000,000 sheep, +which, as Cook foresaw, have thriven well; and with 8,000,000 head of +cattle supply another export in the shape of frozen meat. Coal and other +minerals employ a large number of people, and the total value of exports +amounts to about 24,000,000 pounds.</p> + +<p>The uninhabited shores and untracked seas of Cook's time, only 120 years +ago, are thus now teeming with life and trade; and it is no wonder that +the name of the great explorer is more venerated, and the memory of his +deeds is more fresh, in the Colonies than in the Mother country that sent +him forth to find new fields for British enterprise.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch9"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 9. FROM TORRES STRAIT TO BATAVIA.</h2> + +<p>[August 1770.]</p> + +<p>FRIDAY, 24th. In the P.M. had light Airs from the South-South-West, with +which, after leaving Booby Island, as before mentioned, we steer'd +West-North-West until 5 o'clock, when it fell Calm, and the Tide of Ebb +which sets to the North-East soon after making, we Anchor'd in 8 fathoms +soft sandy bottom, Booby Island bearing South 50 degrees East, distant 5 +miles; Prince of Wales Isles extending from North-East by North to South +55 degrees East. There appear'd to be an open clear passage between these +Islands extending from North 64 degrees East to East by North. At 1/2 +past 5 in the morning in purchasing* (* Weighing the anchor.) the Anchor, +the Cable parted about 8 or 10 fathoms from the Anchor; I immediately +order'd another Anchor to be let go, which brought the ship up before she +had drove a cable's length from the Buoy; after this we carried out a +Kedge, and warped the ship nearer to it, and then endeavour'd to sweep +the Anchor with a Hawser, but miss'd it, and broke away the Buoy rope.* +(* The kedge is a small anchor. Sweeping is dragging the middle of a +rope, or hawser, held at the two ends from two boats some distance apart, +along the bottom, with the object of catching the fluke of the anchor as +it lies on the bottom, and so recovering it. It is a long and wearisome +operation if the bottom is uneven. Cook, however, having already lost one +of his large anchors, could not afford to leave this without an effort.) +We made several Attempts afterwards, but did not succeed. While the Boats +were thus employed we hove up the Kedge Anchor, it being of no more use. +At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 30 minutes South. Winds at +North-East, a fresh breeze; the Flood Tide here comes from the same +Quarter.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. Winds at North-East and East-North-East, a gentle breeze. +Being resolv'd not to leave the Anchor behind while there remain'd the +least probability of getting of it, after dinner I sent the Boats again +to sweep for it first with a small line, which succeeded, and now we +know'd where it lay we found it no very hard matter to sweep it with a +Hawser. This done, we hove the Ship up to it by the same Hawser, but just +as it was almost up and down the Hawser slip'd, and left us all to do +over again. By this time it was dark, and obliged us to leave off until +daylight in the morning, when we sweep'd it again, and hove it up to the +bows, and by 8 o'Clock weigh'd the other anchor, got under sail, and +stood away North-West, having a fresh breeze at East-North-East. At Noon +we were by observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 18 minutes South, +Longitude 219 degrees 39 minutes West, having no land in sight, but about +2 miles to the Southward of us lay a Shoal,* (* Cook Reef.) on which the +Sea broke, and I believe a part of it dry. At low Water it extended +North-West and South-East, and might be about 4 or 5 Leagues in Circuit; +depth of Water at this time and since we weigh'd 9 fathoms.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-13"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-13.jpg"></p> +<h4>TRACK OF ENDEAVOUR FROM TORRES STRAIT TO JAVA. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1770.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th. Fresh breezes at East in standing to the North-West. We +began to Shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at 1/2 past one, +having run 11 Miles since Noon, the boat which was a head made the signal +for Shoal Water, immediately upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought +the Ship up with the sails standing as the boats was but a little way +ahead, having but just relieved the Crew, and at same time we saw from +the Ship Shoal Water* (* Cook Shoal.) in a manner all round us, and both +wind and Tide setting upon it. We lay in 6 fathoms with the Ship, but +upon sounding about her found hardly 2 fathoms, a very rocky bottom, not +much above 1/2 a cable's length from us from the east round by the North +and West as far as South-West, so that there was no way to get clear but +the way we came. This was one of the many Fortunate Escapes we have had +from Shipwreck, for it was near high water, and there run a short +cockling sea that would soon have bulged the Ship had she struck. These +Shoals that lay a fathom or 2 under Water are the most dangerous of any, +for they do not shew themselves until you are close upon them, and then +the water upon them looks brown like the reflection of dark clouds. +Between 3 and 4 the Ebb began to make, when I sent the Master to sound to +the Southward and South Westward, and in the meantime, as the Ship +tended,* (* Swung to the tide.) hove up the Anchor, and with a little +Sail stood to the Southward and afterwards edged away to the Westward, +and got once more out of danger, where at sun set we Anchor'd in 10 +fathoms Sandy bottom. Having a fresh of wind at East-South-East, at 6 +o'clock in the morning we weighed and stood West, with a fresh of wind at +East, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. I did intend to have +steer'd North-West until we had made the Coast of New Guinea, designing +if Possible to touch upon that Coast, but the meeting with these Shoals +last night made me Alter the Course to West, in hopes of meeting with +fewer dangers and deeper Water; and this we found, for by Noon we had +deepned our water gradually to 17 fathoms, and this time we were by +observation in the Latitude of 10 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 220 +degrees 12 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at +noon North 76 degrees West, 11 Leagues, no land in sight.</p> + +<p>[Off South Coast of New Guinea.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 27th. Fresh breezes between the East by North and +East-South-East, with which we steer'd West until sun set; depth of Water +from 27 to 23 fathoms. We now Reef'd the Topsails, shortened Sail, and +hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat up alongside, and afterwards kept +upon a Wind all night under our Topsails, 4 hours on one Tack and four +hours on the other; depth of Water 25 fathoms, very even soundings. At +daylight made all the Sail we could, and steer'd West-North-West until 8 +o'clock, then North-West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude +of 9 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 00 minutes West; +Variation 2 degrees 30 minutes East. Course and distance sail'd since +yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees 33 minutes West, 49 miles.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. Fresh breezes at East and East by South and fair weather. +Continued a North-West Course until sun set, at which time we shortned +sail, and haul'd close upon a Wind to the Northward; depth of Water 21 +fathoms. At 8 Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, then stood to +the Northward under little Sail until daylight, sounding from 25 to 17 +fathoms; Shoalding as we stood to the Northward. At this time we made +sail and steer'd North in order to make the land of New Guinea; from the +time of our making sail until noon the depth of Water gradually decreased +from 17 to 12 fathoms, a stony and shelly bottom. We were now by +Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 52 minutes South, which is in +the same Parrallel as the Southern parts of New Guinea as it is laid down +in the Charts; but there are only 2 points so far to the South, and I +reckon we are a degree to the Westward of both, and for that reason do +not see the Land which trends more to the Northward. Our Course and +distance sail'd since Yesterday is North-North-West, 69 Miles; Longitude +in 221 degrees 27 minutes West. The Sea in many places is here cover'd +with a kind of a brown scum, such as Sailors generally call spawn; upon +our first seeing it it alarm'd us, thinking we were among Shoals, but we +found the same depth of Water were it was as in other places; neither Mr. +Banks nor Dr. Solander could tell what it was, altho' they had of it to +Examine.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29th. Continued standing to the Northward, with a fresh gale +at East by South and South-East until 6 o'clock, having very irregular +and uncertain soundings from 24 to 7 fathoms. At 4 we made the Land from +the Mast head, bearing North-West by North, and which appear'd to be very +low. At 6 it extended from West-North-West to North-North-East, distant 4 +or 5 Leagues. At this time hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward until +7 o'clock, then Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, at which time +we wore and stood to the Northward until 4, then lay her Head off until +daylight, when we again saw the Land, and stood North-North-West directly +for it, having a fresh gale at East by South. Our Soundings in the night +were from 17 to 5 fathoms, very irregular, without any sort of Rule with +respect to our distance from the Land. At 1/2 past 6 a small low island, +laying about a League from the Main, bore North by West, distant 5 miles; +this island lays in the Latitude of 8 degrees 13 minutes South, Longitude +221 degrees 25 minutes West. I find it laid down in the Charts by the +Name of St. Bartholomew or Whermoysen. We now steer'd North-West by West, +West-North-West, West by North, West by South, and South-West by West, as +we found the land to lay, having a Boat ahead of the Ship sounding; depth +of water from 5 to 9 fathoms. When in 7, 8 or 9 fathoms we could but just +see the Land from the Deck; but I did not think we were at above 4 +Leagues off, because the land is exceeding low and level, and appeared to +be well cover'd with wood; one sort appeared to us to be Cocoa Nutt +Trees. By the Smookes we saw in different parts as we run along shore we +were assured that the Country is inhabited. At Noon we were about 3 +Leagues from the land, the Westermost part of which that we could see +bore South 79 degrees West; our Latitude by Observation was 8 degrees 19 +minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 44 minutes West. The Island, St. +Bartholomew, bore North 74 degrees East, distant 20.* (* The ship was now +off the south coast of New Guinea, and near what is known as Princess +Marianne Strait, which separates Frederick Henry Island from the main +island. All this coast is very shallow, but very imperfectly charted to +the present day.)</p> + +<p>Thursday, 30th. Fresh breezes at South-East, East-South-East, and East by +South. After steering South-West by West, 6 miles, we discover'd on our +Starboard bow and ahead a Strong appearance of Shoal Water, and by this +time we had Shoald our water from 10 to 5 fathoms; upon which I made the +Pinnace Signal to Edge down to it, but she not going far enough, we sent +the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a +Wind, with the Ship until 4, at which time we had run 6 Miles, but did +not depen our water anything. We then Edged away South-West, 4 Miles +more, but finding still Shoal Water we brought too, and call'd the Boats +on board by Signal, hoisted them in, and then hauld off close upon a +wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Miles from the Land. The Yawl found +only 3 fathoms water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place +I weather'd about 1/2 a mile. Between 1 and 2 we passed a Bay or Inlet, +before which lies a small Island that seems to Shelter it from the +Southerly winds; but I very much doubt their being Water behind it for +Shipping. I could not attempt it because the South-East Trade wind blows +right in, and we have not as yet had any land breezes. We stretched off +to Sea until 12 o'Clock, at which time we were 10 and 11 Leagues from the +Land, and had depen'd our Water to 29 fathoms; we now tack'd and stood in +until 4 o'Clock, when, being in 6 1/2 fathoms, we tack'd and lay her head +off until day light, at which time we saw the land bearing North-West by +West, distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and steer'd +West-South-West, and then West by South, but coming into 54 fathoms we +hauld off South-West until we depen'd our Water to 8 fathoms; we then +keept away West by South and West, having 9 fathoms and the Land just in +sight from the Deck, which we judged not above 3 or 4 Leagues off, as it +is everywhere exceeding low. At Noon we were by Observation in the +Latitude of 8 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 34 minutes +West. St. Bartholomew Isle bore North 69 degrees East, distant 74 Miles.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Walsche, New Guinea.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 31st. Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer'd North-North-West, in +which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was +little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen'd it +to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight +from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about +4 Leagues, and Seem'd to end in a point and turn away to the Northward; +we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Latitude 8 degrees +24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.* (* This +position is correct. Mr. Green had been assiduously observing lunars, and +it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of +Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down +to current.) We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and +South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a +Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms, +deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in +until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5 +1/2 fathoms. We now Steer'd North-West, having the same deepth of Water +until near 9 o'Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7 +fathoms. By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the +Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did, +having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had +increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Latitude +of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of +that given by the Log; by which I conjectur'd that we had meet with a +strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to +the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did +not.</p> + +<p>[September 1770.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 1st September. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a +fresh breeze from the South-East with which we keept standing in for the +land North-East and East-North-East, close upon a wind, until half past +6, when we Anchor'd in 4 1/2 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, as we have every +were found upon the Coast. About an hour before we Anchor'd we saw the +land from the Mast head extending from the East by North to +South-South-East, all very low; at the time we Anchor'd we found a small +drean* (* Drain.) of a Tide setting away to the North-West, which +continued until 2 in the morning, when the Water had fell 9 feet or +better. This Tide of Ebb was then succeeded by the Flood, which came from +the South-West; yet we did not find the Water to rise much upon a +perpendicular, or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well +attended to in the night, for at 6, when we got under sail, we had no +more than 3 fathoms under the ship, and yet we could not see the land +from the Deck. After getting under sail we stood to the Northward with a +light breeze at East, and deepned our Water by noon to 10 fathoms, having +the Land just in sight from the Mast head to the South-East. At this time +we were in the Latitude of 7 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 222 +degrees 42 minutes West; Port St. Augustine bore South 10 degrees West, +distant 15 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 2nd. In the P.M. had Calm until 2, when a light breeze sprung up +at North by East, and we stood in for the Land East by North until 5, at +which time we got the wind from the South-West, a light breeze, with +which we steer'd North-East, edging in for the land, having it in sight +from the Deck, and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off, being +very low land. Found the Variation to be 2 degrees 34 minutes East, and a +little before 8 o'Clock, having but little wind, we Anchor'd in 7 +fathoms, soft Muddy bottom. In the Afternoon and evening we saw several +Sea Snakes, some of which the people in the Boat alongside took up by +hand. At daylight in the Morning we got under sail, and stood away to the +North-North-East, having a fresh gale at East, which by noon brought us +into the Latitude of 7 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 30 +minutes West; Depth of Water 13 fathoms. Course and distance sail'd since +Yesterday Noon is North 24 degrees East, 27 Miles, having at this time no +land in sight, for the Land, according to the Charts, trends more +Easterly than the Wind would permit us to sail.</p> + +<p>Monday, 3rd. Steer'd North by East, with a fresh breeze at East by North +until 7 in the Evening, when the wind came to South-East by South, with +which we keept standing to the Eastward close upon a wind all Night, +having from 17 to 10 fathoms pretty even Soundings. At daylight we saw +the land extending from North by East to South-East, distant about 4 +Leagues. We still keept standing in for it, having the advantage of a +fresh gale at East-South-East and East by South, until near 9, when, +being about 3 or 4 Miles off, and in 3 fathoms, we brought too and I went +ashore in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, having +a mind to land once in this Country before we quit it Altogether, which I +now am determin'd to do without delay; for I found that it is only +spending time to little purpose, and carrying us far out of our way, +staying upon this Coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep +within sight of land.</p> + +<p>[Land in New Guinea.]</p> + +<p>At the time we put off from the Ship we saw not the least sign of +inhabitants; but we had no sooner landed than we saw the print of Men's +feet fresh upon the sand, and a little way farther we found a small Shed +or Hutt, about which lay green shells of Cocoa Nutts. By this we were +well assured that the inhabitants were not far off; nay, we thought we +heard their Voices in the woods, which were so close and thick that we +did not think it safe to venture in, for fear of an Ambuscade, as we had +only a Boat's crew with us, a part of which were left to look after the +boat, which lay about a 1/4 of a Mile from the Shore. We therefore took a +walk upon the Sea beach, but had not gone above 200 Yards before we were +attack'd by 3 or 4 Men, who came out of the woods a little before us, but +upon our firing upon them they retir'd. Finding that we could not search +the Country with any degree of Safety, we return'd to the boat, and was +followed by 60, or, as some thought, about 100, of the Natives, who had +advanced in small parties out of the woods; but they suffer'd us to go to +our boats without giving us any trouble. We had now time to view them +attentively; we thought them to be about the size and Colour of the New +Hollanders, with short, Cropt Hair, and quite naked like them. I thought +these of a lighter Colour; but that may be owing to a whitish Pigment +with which we thought their bodies were painted, because some appeared +darker than others.</p> + +<p>Their Arms were ordinary darts of about 4 feet long, made of a kind of +reed, and pointed at one end with hard wood; but what appear'd more +extraordinary to us was something they had which caused a flash of fire +or Smoak, very much like the going off of a pistol or small Gun, but +without any report. The deception was so great that the people in the +Ship actually thought that they had fire Arms; indeed, they seem'd to use +these things in imitation of such, for the moment the first man we saw +made his appearance he fir'd off one of these things, and while we lay +looking at them in the boat 4 or 5 would let them off all at once, which +had all the appearance in the world of Volleys of Small Arms; but I am +confident that nothing came from them but smook, but by what means this +was done, or what purpose it answer'd, we were not able to Guess. I +thought the Combustable matter was contain'd in a reed or piece of small +Bamboo, which they gave a Swing round in the hand and caused it to go +off.* (* The natives carry hollow canes with burning tinder for making +fires.)</p> + +<p>This place lies in the Latitude of 6 degrees 15 minutes South, about 65 +Leagues to the North-East of Point St. Augustine, or Walsche Caep, and is +near to what is called in the Charts by the long name of Cape de la Colta +de St. Bonaventura.* (* Cook's landing place in New Guinea, on the +western side of this great island, was on a part of the coast scarcely +known to this day. It is in the part of the island claimed by the Dutch. +Cook's insatiable desire to explore is well shown in this digression from +his course to Batavia.) The land is very low, like every other part of +the Coast we have seen here; it is thick and Luxuriously cloathed with +woods and Verdure, all of which appear Green and flourishing. Here were +Cocoa nutt Trees, Bread Fruit Trees, and Plantain Trees, but we saw no +fruit but on the former, and these were small and Green; the other Trees, +Shrubs, Plants, etc., were likewise such as is common in the South Sea +Islands and in New Holland.</p> + +<p>Upon my return to the Ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the +Westward, with a design to leave the Coast altogether. This, however, was +contrary to the inclination and opinion of some of the Officers, who +would have had me send a Party of Men ashore to cut down the Cocoa Nutt +Trees for the sake of the Nutts; a thing that I think no man living could +have justified, for as the Natives had attacked us for meer landing +without taking away one thing, certainly they would have made a Vigerous +effort to have defended their property; in which case many of them must +have been kill'd, and perhaps some of our own people too, and all this +for 2 or 300 Green Cocoa Nutts, which, when we had got them, would have +done us little service; besides nothing but the utmost necessity would +have obliged me to have taken this method to come at refreshments.</p> + +<p>It's true I might have gone farther along the Coast to the Northward and +Westward until we had found a place where the Ship could lay so near the +Shore as to cover the people with her Guns when landed; but it is very +probable that before we had found such a place we should have been +carried so far to the West as to have been obliged to have gone to +Batavia by the way of the Moluccas, and on the North side of Java, where +we were all utter Strangers. This I did not think was so safe a Passage +as to go to the South of Java and thro' the Straits of Sunda, the way I +propose to myself to go. Besides, as the Ship is leakey, we are not yet +sure wether or no we shall not be obliged to heave her down at Batavia; +in this case it becomes the more necessary that we should make the best +of our way to that place, especially as no new discovery can be Expected +to be made in these Seas, which the Dutch have, I believe, long ago +narrowly examin'd, as appears from 3 Maps bound up with the French +History of Voyages to the Terra Australis, published in 1756,* (* De +Brye's Voyages.) which Maps, I do suppose, by some means have been got +from the Dutch, as we found the Names of many of the places are in that +Language.</p> + +<p>It should likewise seem from the same Maps that the Spaniards and Dutch +have at one time or another circumnavigated the whole of the Island of +New Guinea, as the most of the Names are in these 2 Languages; and such +part of the Coast as we were upon I found the Chart tolerable good, which +obliges me to give some Credit to all the rest, notwithstanding we +neither know by whom or when they were taken, and I always understood, +before I had a sight of these Maps, that it was unknown whether or no New +Holland and New Guinea was not one continued land, and so it is said in +the very History of Voyages these Maps are bound up in. However, we have +now put this wholy out of dispute; but, as I believe, it was known +before, tho' not publicly, I claim no other Merit than the Clearing up of +a doubtful point. Another doubtfull point I should have liked to have +clear'd up, altho' it is of very little, if of any Consequence, which is, +whether the Natives of New Holland and those of New Guinea are, or were, +Original, one People, which one might well suppose, as these 2 Countrys +lay so near to each other, and the intermediate space fill'd up with +Islands. On the other hand, if these 2 people have or ever had any +friendly communication with Each other it seems strange, as I have before +observed, that they should not have transplanted from New Guinea over to +New Holland Cocoa Nutts, Bread fruit, Plantains, etc., etc., all very +useful Articles for the support of Man, that We never saw grow in the +latter, and which we have now seen in the former. La Maire hath given us +a Vocabulary of Words spoken by the People of New Britain (which before +Dampier's time was taken to be a part of New Guinea), by which it appears +that the people of New Britain speak a very different Language from those +of New Holland. Now should it be found that the Natives of New Britain +and those of New Guinea have had One Origin, and speak the same Language, +it will follow, of Course, that the New Hollanders are a different People +from both.* (* In the north of Australia the natives are distinctly +allied to the Papuans, but on the east of the continent they are of a +type of their own, and speak many different languages.)</p> + +<p>[Off South-west Coast of New Guinea.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 4th. Stood to the Westward all this day, having at first a +moderate breeze Southerly, which afterwards freshned and Veered to +South-East and East-South-East. We keept on sounding all the time, having +from 14 to 30 fathoms not regular, but sometimes more and sometimes less. +At noon we were in 14 fathoms; by observation in the Latitude of 6 +degrees 44 minutes South, Longitude 223 degrees 51 minutes West. Course +and distance sail'd since Yesteday Noon South 76 minutes West, 120 Miles.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 5th. Winds at East by South and South-East by East, a fresh +gale and Clear weather, with which were run 118 Miles upon a South 69 +degrees 15 minutes West Course, which at Noon brought us into the +Latitude of 7 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 41 minutes +West; depth of Water 28 fathoms, having been in soundings the whole of +this day's run, generally between 10 and 20 fathoms. At half an hour past +one in the Morning we past by a small low Island, which bore from us at +that time North-North-West, distant 3 or 4 Miles; depth of Water 14 +fathoms, and at daylight we discover'd another low Island extending from +North-North-West and North-North-East, distant 2 or 3 Leagues. I believe +I should have landed upon this Island to have known its produce, as it +did not appear to be very small, had not the wind blown too fresh for +such an undertaking, and at the time we passed the Island we had only 10 +fathoms Water, a rocky bottom; I was therefore afraid of running down to +leeward for fear of meeting with Shoal Water and foul ground. These +Islands have no place on the Charts, unless they are the Arrow Isles, +which, if they are, they are laid down much too far from New Guinea. I +found the South part of these to lay in the Latitude 7 degrees 6 minutes +South, Longitude 225 degrees 0 minutes West.* (* These were probably +Karang and Ennu Islands, two outliers of the Arru Islands.)</p> + +<p>Thursday, 6th. A steady fresh gale at East by South and clear weather, +with which we steer'd West-South-West. At 7 in the Evening we took in the +small Sails, reefd the Topsails, and sounded, having 50 fathoms; we still +keept West-South-West all night, going at the rate of 4 1/2 Miles an +hour. At 10 had 42 fathoms; at 11, 37; and at 12 o'Clock 45; 1 o'Clock +49; and at 3, 120; after which we could get no ground. In the evening we +caught 2 Boobies, which settled upon the rigging, and these were the +first of the kind we have caught in this manner the voyage, altho' I have +heard of them being caught this way in great numbers. At daylight, in the +Morning, we made all the sail we could, and at 10 o'Clock saw land +extending from North-North-West to West by North, distant 5 or 6 League. +At Noon it bore from North to West about the same distance; our Latitude +by observation was 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 227 degrees 47 +minutes West. This land is of an even and moderate height, and by our run +from New Guinea ought to be a part of the Arrow Isles;* (* This was the +southern part of the Tenimber Islands.) but it lays a degree farther to +the South than any of these Islands are laid down in the Charts. We +sounded, but had no ground, with 50 fathoms of Line.</p> + +<p>[Remarks on Charts.]</p> + +<p>Friday, 7th. As I was not able to satisfy myself from any Chart what land +it was we saw to Leeward of us, and fearing it might trend away more +Southerly, and the weather being hazey so that we could not see far, we +steer'd South-West, which Course by 4 o'Clock run us out of sight of the +land; by this I was assured that no part of it lay to the Southward of 8 +degrees 15 minutes South. We continued standing to the South-West all +night under an Easey sail, having the advantage of a fresh gale at +South-East by East and East-South-East, and clear moon light; we sounded +every hour, but had no bottom with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. At +daylight in the Morning we steer'd West-South-West, and afterwards West +by South, which by Noon brought us into the Latitude of 9 degrees 30 +minutes South, and Longitude 229 degrees 34 minutes West, and by our run +from New Guinea ought to be in sight of Wessels Isle, which, according to +the Chart is laid down about 20 or 25 Leagues from the coast of New +Holland; but we saw nothing, by which I conclude that it is wrong laid +down; and this is not to be wonder'd at when we consider that not only +these Islands, but the lands which bound this Sea have been discover'd +and explored by different people and at different times, and compiled and +put together by others, perhaps some Ages after the first discoveries +were made. Navigation formerly wanted many of these helps towards keeping +an Accurate Journal which the present Age is possessed of; it is not they +that are wholy to blame for the faultiness of the Charts, but the +Compilers and Publishers, who publish to the world the rude Sketches of +the Navigator as Accurate surveys, without telling what authority they +have for so doing; for were they to do this we should then be as good or +better judge than they, and know where to depend upon the Charts, and +where not. Neither can I clear Seamen of this fault; among the few I have +known who are Capable of drawing a Chart or Sketch of a Sea Coast I have +generally, nay, almost always, observed them run into this error. I have +known them lay down the line of a Coast they have never seen, and put +down Soundings where they never have sounded; and, after all, are so fond +of their performances as to pass the whole off as Sterling under the +Title of a Survey Plan, etc. These things must in time be attended with +bad Consequences, and cannot fail of bringing the whole of their works in +disrepute.* (* Cook had good reason for writing thus, and being himself +scrupulously honest and careful, he felt this scamped work to be a +disgrace to seamen.) If he is so modest as to say, Such and such parts, +or the whole of his plan is defective, the Publishers or Vendures will +have it left out, because they say it hurts the sale of the work; so that +between the one and the other we can hardly tell when we are possessed of +a good Sea Chart until we ourselves have proved it.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 8th. Winds Easterly, with a high Sea from the same Quarter. Our +Course and distance sail'd this 24 Hours is South 86 degrees 30 minutes +West, 102 Miles; Latitude in 9 degrees 36 minutes South, Longitude 231 +degrees 17 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and Clear weather the most part of this 24 Hours. +In the evening found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 0 degrees 12 +minutes West, and by the Amplitude 0 degrees 5 minutes West. At Noon we +were by observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 46 minutes South, +Longitude 232 degrees 7 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since +yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 52 Miles. For these 2 +days past we have steer'd due West, and yet we have by observation made +16 Miles Southing--6 Miles Yesterday and 10 to-day; from which it should +seem that there is a Current setting to the Southward and Westward +withall, as I should suppose.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. Light Airs Easterly, except in the morning, when we had it +at North; at sunset found the Variation to be 0 degrees 2 minutes West, +at the same time saw, or thought we saw, very high land bearing +North-West, and in the Morning saw the same appearances of land in the +same Quarter, which left us no room to doubt but what it was land, and +must be either the Island of Timor land or Timor, but which of the 2 I +cannot as yet determine.* (* This was Timor. What Cook calls Timor land +is probably Timor Laut, another name for the principal island of the +Tenimber Group.) At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 10 +degrees 1 minute South, which was 15 Miles to the Southward of that given +by the Log. Longitude in per Observation 233 degrees 27 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th. Variable light Airs and Clear weather. Steer'd North-West, +in order to discover the Land plainer until 4 in the morning, at which +time the wind came to North-West and West, with which we stood to the +Southward until 9 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and stood North-West, having +the wind at West-South-West. At sun rise in the morning we could see the +land extend from West-North-West to North-East; at noon we could see it +extend to the Westward as far as West by South 1/2 South, but no farther +to the Eastward than North by East. We were now well assured that this +was part of the Island of Timor, in consequence of which the last Island +we saw must have been Timor land, the South part of which lies in the +Latitude of 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 228 degrees 10 minutes, +whereas in the Charts the South Point is laid down in Latitude 9 degrees +30 minutes. It is possible that the Land we saw might be some other +Island; but then I cannot see how we could have miss'd seeing Timor land, +soposing it to be right laid down in Latitude, as we were never to the +Southward of 9 degrees 30 minutes; for my design was to have made that +Island, and to have landed upon it to have seen what it produced, as it +is (according to the Charts) a large Island, and not settled by the Dutch +that I ever heard off. We were now in the Latitude of 9 degrees 37 +minutes, Longitude 233 degrees 54 minutes West by observation of the Sun +and Moon, and Yesterday we were by Observation in 233 degrees 27 minutes +West. The difference is 27 minutes, which is exactly the same as what the +Log gave; this, however, is a degree of accuracy in observation that is +seldom to be expected.</p> + +<p>[Off South Coast of Timor.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. Winds between the South and West, a light breeze and +Clear weather in the P.M.; stood in shore until 8 o'Clock, then Tack'd +and stood off, being about 6 Leagues from the Land, which at dark extend +from South-West 1/2 West to North-East; at this time we sounded and had +no ground with 140 fathoms of line, being not above 4 Leagues from the +Land. At 12 o'Clock we Tack'd and stood in, having but little wind, and +continued so until noon, at which time we were by Observation in Latitude +9 degrees 36 minutes South; the Log this 24 Hours gave 18 Miles Westing, +but it did not appear by the land that we had made so much. We saw +several Smoaks upon the Land by day, and fires in the Night.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. Stood in shore, with a light breeze at South by West +until 1/2 past 5 o'Clock in the P.M., when, being a Mile and a 1/2 from +the Shore, and in 16 fathoms, we tack'd and stood off. At this time the +Extreams of the Land extended from North-East by East to West by South +1/2 South; this last was a low point, distant from us about 3 Leagues. We +were right before a small Creek or Inlet into the low land, which lies in +the Latitude of 9 degrees 34 minutes South. Probably it might be the same +as Dampier went into in his Boat, for it did not seem to have depth of +Water sufficient for anything else. In standing in shore we sounded +several times, but found no soundings until we got within 2 1/2 Miles of +the Shore, where we had 25 fathoms, soft bottom. We stood off Shore until +12 o'Clock, with the wind at South, then Tack'd and stood to the Westward +2 Hours, when the wind veer'd to the South-West and West-South-West, and +then we stood to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be +1 degree 10 minutes West by the Amplitude, and by the Azimuth 1 degree 27 +minutes West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees +45 minutes South, Longitude 234 degrees 12 minutes West, and about 6 or 7 +Leagues from the land, which extended from North 31 degrees East to +West-South-West 1/2 West. Winds at South-South-West, a Gentle breeze.</p> + +<p>Friday, 14th. Light Land and Sea breezes; the former we had from West by +North, and only a few hours in the morning, the latter we had from the +South-South-West and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to +the Westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land, which +extended from North by East to South 78 degrees West; our Latitude by +Observation was 9 degrees 54 minutes South. Course and Distance sail'd +since Yesterday noon South 68 degrees West, 24 Miles. We saw several +Smoakes ashore in the P.M., and fires in the night, both upon the Low +land and up in the Mountains.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. had the Sea breezes at South-South-West and +South, with which we stood to the Westward until 8 o'Clock, when being +about 3 Leagues from the Land, and having very little wind, we tack'd and +lay her Head off Shore. At 11 o'Clock we got the Land wind at North by +West, with which we steer'd South-West by West along shore, keeping about +4 or 5 Miles from the Land on which in the morning we saw several Houses, +Plantations, etc. At 9 o'Clock we got the wind at North-East by East, a +light breeze; at Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Land, which +extended as far to the Southward as South-West by West; our Latitude by +observation was 10 degrees 1 minute South. Course and Distance sail'd +since Yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 36 Miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th. Light breezes from the North-East by East, with clear +weather, except in the morning, when we had it cloudy, with a few small +Showers of Rain. Steer'd along shore South-West and South-West by West +until 6 o'Clock in the morning, when we steer'd West-South-West, and at +9, West, at which time we saw the Island Rotte right ahead. At Noon we +were in the Latitude of 10 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 235 degrees 57 +minutes; the South end of Timor bore North-North-West, distant 5 or 6 +Leagues; the Island of Rotte extending from South 75 degrees West to +North 67 degrees West, and the Island of Anaboa as Dampier calls it, or +Seman* (* Semao. This island lies off the Dutch settlement of Koepang or +Concordia in Timor; but Cook was right in supposing he would have +received but a cold reception there. The Dutch discouraged any visits at +their outlying settlements. Rotte is a large island lying off the +south-west end of Timor.) as it is called in the Charts, which lies of +the South end of Timor, bore North-West. Course and distance sail'd since +Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who +has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of +the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and +that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie +nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to +lie in the Latitude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5 +minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side, +which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South +end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland, +and seem'd in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the +low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable +height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and +in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some +of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this +Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that +the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among +these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to +put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.</p> + +<p>[Anchor at Savu.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer'd West-North-West until +2 o'Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up +North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3 +Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we +were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa, +which lies in the Latitude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore +North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far +to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island +and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant +about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Passage +between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the +Rotte shore and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a +good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro'. +Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a West course all night until 6 +a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an Island* (* Savu. An island about twenty +miles in length. It is but little visited or known by others than the +Dutch to this day.) bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we +had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between +Timor and Java; at least there were none laid down so near Timor in this +Latitude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new +discovery; but in this I was mistaken. We now steer'd directly for it, +and by 10 o'Clock were close in with the North side, where we saw Houses, +Cocoa Nutt Trees, and a Flock of Cattle grazing; these were Temptations +hardly to be withstood by people in our situation, especially such as +were but in a very indifferent State of Health, and I may say mind too, +for in some this last was worse than the other, since I refused to touch +at the Island of Timor, whereupon I thought I could not do less than to +try to procure some refreshments here, as there appeared to be plenty.* +(* Cook's utter indifference as to what he eat or drank made him regard +privations in the matter of food with an equanimity which was not shared +by the rest of his companions.) With this View we hoisted out the +Pinnace, in which I sent Lieutenant Gore in shore to see if there were +any Convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give +to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove +near to some Houses, and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the people, +who from both their behaviour and what they had about them shew'd that +they had Commerce with Europeans; upon Mr. Gore's returning with this +report, and likewise that there was No Anchorage for the Ship, I sent him +away with both money and goods to try to purchase some refreshments, +while we keept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a +Mile from the Shore of the Island, which extends from South-East to +West-North-West, Latitude 10 degrees 27 minutes, Longitude 237 degrees 31 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was meet on the beach by +several people, both Horse and Foot, who gave him to understand that +there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor, and likewise get +refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore's return with this intelligence we bore away +for the Bay, in which we Anchor'd at 7 o'Clock in 38 fathoms Water, Clean +sandy bottom. About a Mile from Shore the North point of the Bay bore +North 30 degrees East, 2 1/2 Miles, and the South point or West end of +the Island bore South 63 degrees West. Two hours before we Anchor'd we +saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland, +and at day light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the +beach abreast of the Ship. By this I was no longer in doubt but what here +was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore on shore to +wait upon the Governor, or chief person residing here, to acquaint him +with the reasons that induced us to touch at this Island. Upon Mr. Gore's +landing we could perceive that he was received by a Guard of the Natives, +and not Dutch Troops, and Conducted up to the Village where the Colours +were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from +him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the Island, who +had told him that he could not supply him with anything without leave +from the Dutch Governor, who resided at another part of the Island, but +that he had sent to acquaint him of our Arrival and request.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor. Savu.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th. At 2 P.M. the Dutch Governor, and king of this part of +the Island, with his attendance, came on board with Mr. Gore (he having +left 2 Gentlemen ashore as Hostages). We entertained them at Dinner in +the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some +considerable presents, and at their going away Saluted them with 9 Guns. +In return for these favours they made many fair Promises that we should +be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same price the +Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the morning Buffaloes, Hogs, +Sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree +upon a price. I was not at all at a loss for Interpreters, for both Dr. +Solander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a +Conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak +Portuguese, which language 2 or 3 of my people understood. In the morning +I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and several of the Officers and +Gentlemen, to return the King's Visit; but my Chief Business was to see +how well they would perform their Promises in regard to the things I +wanted. We had not been long ashore before we found that they had +promised more than they ever intended to perform; for, instead of finding +Buffaloes upon the beach, we did not so much as see one, or the least +preparations making for bringing any down, either by the Dutch Factor or +the King. The former pretended he had been very ill all night, and told +us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor, +acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lately passed that Island, +and that if she should touch at this, and be in want of anything, he was +to supply her; but he was not to suffer her to make any stay, nor to +distribute, or leave behind her to be distributed, any valuable presents +to the inferior Natives. This we looked upon to be Afection that hardly +answer'd any purpose, unless it was leting us see how the Dutch had +insinuated themselves into favour with these people, which never could be +his intention. However, both he and the King still promised we should +have what we wanted, but pretended the Buffaloes were far in the Country, +and could not be brought down before night. With these excuses we were +obliged to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boil'd Pork and +Rice, served up in Baskets after their manner, and Palm wine to drink; +with this, and some of our own Liquor, we fair'd Tolerable well. After we +had dined our Servants were called in to pertake of what remain'd, which +was more than they could Eat.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 20th. We stay'd at the King's Pallace all the Afternoon, and at +last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than +a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no +great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and was +showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer'd 3, +which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the +king to let him know what I had offer'd. The Messenger soon return'd, and +let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused +to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this, +my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon +after about 100 Men, some Arm'd with Musquets, others with Lances, came +down to the Landing Place. Besides the officer that commanded this party, +there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was +born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards +Understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver'd to me the +King's order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which +was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the +people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for +nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew'd the greatest inclination +imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more +desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us +Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this +and other Circumstances we were well Assured that this was all the +Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into +his own pocket. There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the +beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with +a Spy-glass; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an +old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the +Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and +made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back +side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc., +with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for +Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 +Guineas for 2, one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought +7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid +for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove +them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well +know'd what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large +quantity of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.</p> + +<p>Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the +North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther +to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East, +distant 2 Leagues.</p> + +<p>[Description of Savu.]</p> + +<p>Before we proceed any further it will be proper in this place to say +something of the Island we have been last at, which is called by the +Natives Savu. The Middle of it lies in about the Latitude of 10 degrees +35 minutes South, Longitude 237 degrees 30 minutes West. It may be about +8 Leagues in length from East to West, but of what breadth I know not, +because I only saw the North side. There are, as I am told, 3 Bays where +Ships can Anchor; the best is on the South-West side of the South-East +point; the one we lay in, called Seba, lies on the North-West side of the +Island. This bay is very well sheltered from the South-East Trade wind, +but lays wholy open to the North-West. The Land of this Island which +bounds the Sea is, in general, low, but in the Middle of the Island are +Hills of a moderate height, and the whole is agreeably diversified with +woods and Lawns, which afford a most pleasing prospect from the Sea. We +were told that the Island is but indifferently water'd in the dry Season, +especially towards the latter end of it, at which time there is no +running Stream upon the whole Island, only small Springs, which are all +at a distance from the Sea side. The dry seasons commences in March or +April, and ends in November; the remaining 3 or 4 Months they have +Westerly winds with rain, and this the time their Crops of Rice, +Calivances, and Indian Corn are brought forth, which are Articles that +this Island produceth.</p> + +<p>They also breed a great Number of Cattle, viz., Buffaloes, Horses, Hogs, +Sheep, and Goats. Many of the former are sent to Concordia, where they +are kill'd and salted, in order to be sent to the more Northern Islands, +which are under the Dominion of the Dutch. Sheep and Goats' flesh is +dried upon this Island, packed up in Bales, and sent to Concordia for the +same purpose. The Dutch resident, from whom we had this information, told +us that the Dutch at Concordia had lately behaved so ill to the Natives +of Timor that they were obliged to have recourse to this Island and +others Adjacent for provisions for their own subsistance, and likewise +Troops (Natives of this Island) to assist the Dutch against those of +Timor. Besides the above productions, here are an Emmence Number of Palm +Trees, from which is extracted the Palm Wine, as it is called, a very +sweet, agreeable, cooling Liquor. What they do not immediately use they +boil down and make Syrup or Sugar of, which they keep in Earthen Jarrs. +Here are likewise Cocoa Nutts, Tamerind Trees, Limes etc., but in no +great plenty; Indico, Cotton, and Cinnamon, sufficient to serve the +Natives; these last Articles, we were told, the Dutch discourage the +growth of.</p> + +<p>The Island is divided into 5 Kingdoms, which have lived in Peace and +Amity with each other for these hundred Years. At present the whole +Island is partly under the direction of the Dutch East India Company, who +have a Resident or Factor who constantly lives here, without whose leave +the Natives are not to supply any other Nation with anything whatever; +but the whole produce of the Island, besides what serves themselves, is +in a manner the property of the Company. The Company by way of a Tribute +oblige them to raise and pay Annually a certain quantity of Rice, Indian +Corn, and Callivances, for which the Company makes Each of the Kings a +yearly present of a Cask of Arrack, and some other Trifles; the live +stock, Sheep and Goats' flesh, etc., they pay for in goods. The small +Islands which lie about a League to the Westward of this pays Annually a +Certain quantity of Arica Nutts, which is almost the only produce of that +Island.</p> + +<p>The Island of Rotte is upon the same footing as this of Savu; both these +Islands, and the 3 Solors, belong to the Government of Concordia. From +what we could learn of the Island of Timor, it seems to be much upon the +same footing as it was in Dampier's time, which is that the Dutch possess +little more of that Island than what lies under the Command of the Fort +Concordia; the rest is in possession either of the Native Indians or the +Portuguese. We were likewise told that the Island of Ende belongs to the +Portuguese; that the principal settlement is at Larentucha, where there +is a Fort and a good Harbour. We were told that the Concordia, on the +Island Timor, is a free Port for Ships of any nation to touch at, where +they would not only be supplied with refreshments, but Naval Stores also. +Trading ships might probably meet with a good reception, but Kings' +ships, I am perswaided, would be looked upon as Spys. For my own part was +I only in want of refreshments, and obliged to touch at any of these +Islands, I should prefer going to a Portuguese settlement before any of +the Dutch, and when I was solicited by the Officers to call at Timor, I +proposed going to one of the Portuguese settlements; but this Mr. Hicks +made some Objections to, which was sufficient for me to lay it aside, as +I had not the least inclination to touch any where till we arriv'd at +Batavia, for my falling in with Savu was more chance and not design.</p> + +<p>But to return to this Island, the Natives of which are of a Dark brown +Colour, with long lank Hair; their Cloathing is a peice of Calicoe or +other Cotton Cloath wrapped about their Middle; the better sort have +another peice, which they wear over their Shoulders, and the most of them +wear Turbands or Handkercheifs tyed round their Heads. They Eat of all +the Tame Animals they have got, viz., Hogs, Horses, Buffaloes, Cocks and +Hens, Dogs, Catts, Sheep and Goats, and are esteem'd much in the same +order, as I have mentioned; that is, their Hog flesh, which is certainly +as good as any in the world, they prefer before anything else; next to +Hogs, Horses, and so on. Fish is not esteem'd by them, and is only eat by +the common or poor people, who are allowed little else of meat kind.</p> + +<p>They have a Custom among them, that whenever a king dies all the Cattle, +etc., that are upon his Estate are kill'd, with which the Successor makes +a feast, to which is invited all the principal people of the Island, who +stay until all is consumed; after this they every one, according to his +Abilities, make the young King a present, by which means he gets a fresh +stock, which he is obliged to Husband for some time. The other principal +men make also feasts, which are as extraordinary as these, for they +seldom end so long as the giver has got anything left alive upon his +Estate. They are said to be a people of good Morals, Virtuous and Chaste, +each man having only one wife, which he keeps for life; Fornication and +Adultry is hardly known among them. When a great Man marrys he makes +presents to all his Wife's relations of European and other Foreign +commodities to the value of 100 Rix Dollars. This Custom the Dutch East +India Company find it to their Interest to incourage. They speak a +Language peculiar to themselves, into which the Dutch have caus'd the new +Testament to be Translated, and have introduced it, with the use of +letters and writing, among them. By this means several hundred of them +have been converted to Christianity; the rest are some heathens, and +others of no religion at all, and yet they all stick up to the strict +rules of Morality. They all, both Men and Women, Young and Old, Chew of +the Beetle Leaf, Areca Nutts, and a sort of white lime, which I believe +is made from Coral stone; this has such an effect upon the Teeth that +very few, even of the Young people, have hardly any left in their Heads, +and those they have are as black as Ink. Their houses are built on posts +about 4 feet from the Ground; we asked the reason why they built them so, +and was told that it was only Custom; they are, however, certainly the +Cooler for it. They are thatched with Palm Leaves, and the Floors and +sides are boarded.</p> + +<p>The man who resides upon this Island in behalf of the Dutch East India +Company is a German by birth. His name is Johan Christopher Lange. It is +hard to say upon what footing he is here. He is so far a Governor that +the Natives dare do nothing without his consent, and yet he can transact +no sort of business with Foreigners either in his own or that of the +Company's name; nor can it be a place of either Honour or Profit. He is +the only white man upon the Island, and has resided there ever since it +has been under the direction of the Dutch, which is about 10 Years. He is +allowed 50 Slaves (Natives of the Island) to attend upon him. These +belong to, and are Maintained by, the Company. He goes the Circuit of the +Island once in 2 Months; but on what account he did not tell us. When he +makes these rounds he carries with him a certain quantity of Spirit to +treat the great men with, which, he says, he is obliged to look well +after, otherwise they would steal it and get drunk; and yet, at another +time, he told us that he never knew a theft committed in the Island; but +some of the Natives themselves contradicted him in this by stealing from +us an Axe. However, from their behaviour to us in general I am of opinion +that they are but seldom guilty of these Crimes. This going round the +Island once in Two Months is most likely to see that the Natives make the +necessary preparations for fulfilling their engagements with the Dutch, +and to see that the Large Boats or small Vessels are taken proper care +of, which the Dutch keep in all the Bays of this Island in order to +collect and carry the grain, etc., to the Ship which comes Annually here. +They are likewise employed in carrying cattle, grain, etc., to Timor; +and, when not wanted, they are hauled aShore into Houses or Sheds built +on purpose. As I have mentioned Slaves, it is necessary to observe that +all the great men have Slaves which are the Natives of the Island. They +can dispose of them one to another, but cannot sell them to go out of the +Island. The price of a Slave is a good, large, fatt Hogg, Horse, etc. I +have before mentioned that many of the people can speak Portuguese, but +hardly any one Dutch. From this it is probable that this Island was +formerly under the Jurisdiction of the Portuguese, tho' the Dutch +Government never own'd as much, but said that the Dutch had Traded here +these hundred years past.* (* This account of the economy of Savu is a +good example of Cook's powers of observation. He was only four days at +the island, and yet gives us a good idea of the place and its +inhabitants.)</p> + +<p>[Sail from Savu.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22nd. Winds at South-South-East, South-East, and East; a gentle +breeze, which we steer'd West-South-West by Compass. At 4 o'Clock we +discover'd a small low Island* (* Dama Island.) bearing South-South-West, +distant 3 Leagues. The Island hath no place in any of our Charts: +Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes South, Longitude 238 degrees 28 minutes +West. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 11 degrees 9 minutes South, +Longitude 239 degrees 26 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since +yesterday noon, South 63 West, 67 miles.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23rd. Winds Easterly; a moderate breeze, which by noon brought us +into the Latitude of 11 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 240 degrees +48 minutes West. Course and distance saild since yesterday at noon is +West, 8 miles.</p> + +<p>Monday, 24th. Winds at East and South-East; a moderate breeze, and fine, +pleasant weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 2 degrees 44 +minutes West. At noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 8 minutes South, +Longitude 242 degrees 13 minutes West. Since we have been clear of the +Islands we have had constantly a swell from the Southward which I do not +suppose is owing to the winds blowing anywhere from thence, but to the +Sea, being so determined by the portion of the Coast of New Holland.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear, pleasant +weather. At Noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 13 minutes South, and +Longitude 244 degrees 41" West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. Winds and weather as yesterday. At Noon Latitude in 11 +degrees 10 minutes, Longitude 245 degrees 41" West.</p> + +<p>Thursday 27th. Winds at South-South-East; a fresh breeze. In the evening +found the variation to be 3 degrees 10 minutes West. At noon we were in +the Longitude of 247 degrees 42 minutes West, and Latitude 10 degrees 47 +minutes, which is 25 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which I know not +how to account for.</p> + +<p>Friday 28th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East; a fresh breeze and +Cloudy, with some Showers of rain. At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees +51 minutes South, which is agreeable to the Logg, Longitude in 250 +degrees 9 minutes, West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. Moderate breeze at South-East and clear pleasant weather, +Steer'd North-West all this day, in order to make the land of Java. At +Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 31 minutes South +and Longitude 251 degrees 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. Fresh gales and fair weather. In the A.M. I took into my +possession the Officers', Petty Officers' and Seamen's Log Books and +Journals, at least all that I could find, and enjoin'd every one not to +divulge where they had been.* (* These logs are now in the Public Record +Office. Mr. Green's log ends on the 2nd October. Not being an officer, +Cook doubtless overlooked it at first. This log should by rights have +been returned to Mr. Green, but as he died shortly after leaving Batavia, +it has found its way, with the others, to the Record Office.) At noon our +Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at noon, is North 20 degrees +West, 126 Miles, which brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 34 +minutes South and Longitude 252 degrees 23 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[October 1770. Enter Sunda Strait. ]</p> + +<p>Monday, 1st October. First and latter parts fresh breezes at South-East +and fair weather; the Middle squally with Lightning and rain. At 7 p.m., +being then in the Latitude of Java head, and not seeing any land, assured +us that we had got too far to the Westward; upon which we hauld up +East-North-East, having before Steerd North by East. At 12 o'Clock saw +the Land bearing East, Tack'd, and stood to the South-West until 4, then +stood again to the Eastward, having very unsettled squally weather which +split the Main Topsail very much, and obliged us to bend the other; many +of our Sails are now so bad that they will hardly stand the least puff of +Wind. At 6 o'Clock Java head, on the West end of Java, bore South-East by +East, distant 5 Leagues; soon after this saw Princes Island, bearing East +1/2 South. At 10 o'Clock saw the Island of Cracatoa* (* The great +eruption, and consequent destruction of the larger part of this island in +1883, will be remembered. It lies in the centre of Sunda Strait.) bearing +North-East, distant 7 Leagues; Princes Island extending from South 53 +degrees East to South by West, distant 3 Leagues. Course and distance +saild since Yesterday at Noon is North 24 degrees 30 minutes East, 70 +Miles. Latitude in per Observation, 6 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude +251 degrees 54 minutes; but either our Longitude must be erroneous or the +Straits of Sunda must be faltily laid down in all Books and Charts; but +this no doubt we shall have an opportunity to settle.* (* Cook's +longitude was in error nearly three degrees. No lunars had been taken +since they left Savu, and there is a current running westward. It is a +good example of the error of dead reckoning, even with the most careful +of navigators.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 2nd. In the P.M., had the wind at South-South-East, South-East +by South and South-South-East, with which we stood to the Eastward close +upon a wind. At 6 o'Clock the Hill on Princes Island bore South-West by +South, and Cracatoa Island, North 10 Miles; in this situation had 58 +fathoms, standing still to the Eastward. At 8 o'Clock had 52 fathoms, +muddy bottom, at 10 23 fathoms. By 4 in the morning we fetched close in +with the Java shore in 15 fathoms, then steer'd along shore. At 5 it fell +Calm, which continued with some Variable light Airs until noon, at which +time Anger Point bore North-East, distant 1 League, and Thwart-the-way +Island North. In the morning I sent a Boat ashore to try to get some +fruits for Tupia, who is very ill, and, likewise, to get some grass, +etc., for the Buffaloes we have still left. The Boats return'd with only +4 Cocoa Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains, which they purchased of the +Natives for a Shilling, and a few Shrubs for the Cattle.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3rd. Soon after 12 o'Clock it fell quite Calm, which obliged +us to Anchor in 18 fathoms, Muddy bottom, about 2 Miles from shore, where +we found a strong Current setting to the South-West. Not long before we +Anchor'd we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point, on board which I +sent Mr. Hicks to enquire after News.* (* It will be recollected that the +Endeavour was now two years and two months from England, without the +slightest chance of any news from home. We can imagine the anxiety and +excitement on board on thus approaching civilisation, though they had no +prospect of personal letters. With the frequent communication of modern +times, we can scarcely realise such circumstances, and should certainly +consider them as an exceeding hardship.) Upon his return he inform'd me +that there were 2 Dutch Ships from Batavia, one bound for Ceylon, and the +other to the Coast of Mallabar, besides a small Fly-boat or Packet, which +is stationed here to carry all Packets, Letters, etc., from all Dutch +Ships to Batavia; but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here +to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Straits. We now first +heard the agreeable news of His Majesty's Sloop The Swallow being at +Batavia about 2 Years ago.* (* The Swallow, Captain Cartaret, had sailed +with the Dolphin in 1766, but separated from her on emerging from the +Strait of Magellan. The Dolphin had reached England some months before +Cook sailed, but nothing had been heard of the Swallow, and fears were +entertained of her loss.) At 7 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at +South-South-West, with which we weighed and stood to the North-East +between Thwart-the-way Island and the Cap:* (* Thwart-the-Way is an +island that lies right across the fairway of Sunda Strait. The Cap is +another smaller island that lies North-East of it.) soundings from 18 to +26 fathoms. We had but little Wind all night, and having a Strong Current +against us, we got no further by 8 o'Clock in the morning than under +Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to North-East, and obliged us to +Anchor in 22 fathoms about 2 Miles from the Shore. The above point bore +North-East by East, distant 1 League. Here we found a strong Current +setting to the North-West. In the morning we saw the Dutch packet +standing after us, but after the wind Shifted to the North-East she bore +away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr. Hicks yesterday that the Current +sets constantly to the South-Westward, and that it would continue to set +so for a Month or Six Weeks longer.</p> + +<p>[In Sunda Strait.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. In the P.M. had the wind at North-East by North, which +obliged us to lay fast. About 6 o'Clock in the evening one of the Country +Boats came alongside in which was the Commander of the Packet before +mentioned; he seem'd to have 2 Motives for coming, one to take an account +of the Ship, and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the Boat were +Turtle, Fowls, Birds, etc., all of which they held at a pretty high +Price, and had brought to a bad market, as our Savu stock was not all +expended. I gave a Spanish Dollar for a small Turtle which weighed only +36 pounds. With respect to the Ship, he wanted to know her name, the +Captain's, the place we came last from and were bound, as I would not see +him myself. I order'd that no account should be given him from whence we +came; but Mr. Hicks, who wrote the Ship's name down in his book, put down +from Europe. Seeing this he expressed some surprise, and said that we +might write down what we pleased, for it was of no other use than for the +information of such of our Country men as might pass these Streights. At +7 o'Clock a light breeze sprung up at South-South-East, with which we got +under sail. At 1 A.M. Anchor'd again, having not wind to stem the Current +which we found to run 3 Knotts; at 2 o'Clock we weighed again, but, +finding that we lost ground, we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathoms, the +Island Pulo Morack, which lies close under the Shore 3 Miles to the +Westward of Bantam Point: bore South-East by South, distance 1 1/2 miles. +Latitude observed, 5 degrees 55 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. At 5 in the P.M. we weighed with a light breeze at +South-West by South, which continued not long before it fell Calm, and +obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 o'Clock we weigh'd with the Land wind at +South-South-East, which died away in the Morning, and the Current running +strong against us we Anchor'd in 17 fathoms. A little before this, a Proe +came alongside, wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same +business as the other. He sent me down a printed paper in English +containing 9 Articles or Questions, of which this is a Copy.</p> + +<p>"The Commanders and Officers of the Ships where this Paper may be +presented, will be pleased to answer on the following Questions: viz., +1. "To what Nation the Ship belongs, and its Name. +2. "If it comes from Europe or any other place. +3. "From what place it lastly departed from. +4. "Where unto design'd to go. +5. "What, and how many, ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the +last shore there lay'd, and their names. +6. "If one or more of these ships in Company with this is departed for +this or any other place. +7. "If during the Voyage any particularity is hapned or seen. +8. "If not any ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or +Hail'd in, and which. +9. "If any other News worth Attention at the place from whence the Ship +lastly departed or during the vogage is hapned.</p> + +<p>"Batavia in the Castle, +the +By Order of the Governor +General and the Counselors of India.</p> + +<p>"J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sect."</p> + +<p>The first and fourth of these Questions I only answer'd, which when the +Officer saw, he made use of the very same words the other had done +before, viz.: that we might write what we pleased, for it was of no +consequence, etc., and yet he immediately said that he must send that +very paper away to Batavia by water, and that it would be there by +to-morrow noon, which shows that the Governor and Counselors of India +look upon such papers to be of some consequence. Be this as it may, my +reason for taking notice of it in this Journal, is because I am well +inform'd that it is but of very late years that the Dutch have taken upon +them to examine all Ships that pass these Streights. At 10 o'Clock we +weigh'd with a light breeze at South-West, but did little more than stem +the Current. At Noon, Bantam Point* (* Bantam Point, now called St. +Nicholas Point, is the north-west point of Java, and forms the +north-eastern extreme of Sunda Strait.) and Pula Baba, in one bearing +East by North, distant from the Point 1 1/2 Mile. Latitude observed, 5 +degrees 53 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th. At 2 o'Clock P.M., finding we could not stem the Current, +we anchor'd, with the Kedge Anchor, under Bantam Point, where we lay +until 9, at which time Current made Slowly to the Eastward, and at the +same time a light breeze springing up, we weigh'd and stood to the East +until 10 o'Clock in the A.M., when the Current oblig'd us again to Anchor +in 22 fathoms, Pula Baba bearing East by South 1/2 South, distant 3 or 4 +Miles. Our sounding from Bantam Point to this place was from 36 to 22 +fathoms.</p> + +<p>Sunday 7th. Light Air from the Southward with frequent Calms. At 6 +o'Clock P.M., weighed with a light breeze at South-South-West, which was +not sufficient to stem the current, and was therefore obliged to come too +again, in 15 fathoms. At 10 o'Clock weighed again and stood to the +Eastward with the Wind at South-South-East. At 11 A.M., Anchor'd in 21 +fathoms, the West end of Wapping Island bore South, distant 3 Miles, and +the Thousand Islands North by East 1/2 East, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Found +the Current still set to the Westward.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Had it Calm until 4 in the P.M., when we got the Sea breeze +at North-East very faint, with which we weighed and stood to the +Eastward, past Wapping Island, and the first Island to the Eastward of +it. Falling little wind we were carried by the Current between this last +Island and the 2nd Island, to the Eastward of Wapping Island, where we +were obliged to Anchor in 30 fathoms, being very near a ledge of Rocks +which spitted out from one of the Islands. At 1/2 past 2 o'Clock in the +A.M., weighed with the land wind at South and stood out clear of the +shoal, where we were again obliged to come to an Anchor, having Variable +light winds attended with Thunder and rain. At 5 o'Clock the weather +being fair, and a light breeze at South, we weighed, but making little or +no way against the Current, we soon came too again, in 28 fathoms, near a +small Island not laid down in the Charts; Pulo Pare* (* Wapping Island is +now known as Hoorn, and Pulo Pare as Agenietan Islands. They lie, among +many others, to the north-west of Batavia Roads.) bore East-North-East, +distant 6 or 7 Miles. While we lay here a Proe came alongside, where in +were 2 Malays, who sold us 3 Turtles, weighing 147 pounds, for a Spanish +Dollar. Some on board thought them dear, but I thought they were cheap, +founding my Judgment on the price the two Dutchmen that were on board +before set upon those they had, one of which we paid a Dollar for, that +weighed only 36 pounds.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. A little past Noon weigh'd with a light breeze at +North-East, and stood to the Eastward until 5 o'Clock, when, not being +able to weather Pulo Pare, we Anchor'd in 30 fathoms, the said Island +extending from South-East to South-South-West, distant 1 Mile. At 10 got +the land wind at South, with which we weighed and stood to the +East-South-East all night; depth of water, from 30 to 22 fathoms, and +from 22 to 16 fathoms. When we Anchor'd at 10 o'Clock in the A.M. to wait +for the Sea breeze, the Island of Edam bore South-West by West, distant 6 +or 7 Miles. At Noon we weighed and stood in for Batavia Road, having the +advantage of the Sea breeze at North-North-East.</p> + +<p>[Arrival at Batavia.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th, according to our reckoning, but by the people here +Thursday, 11th. At 4 o'Clock in the P.M. Anchor'd in Batavia road, where +we found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, 2 English Country Ships,* (* +A country ship is a vessel under the English flag, but belonging to a +port in English possessions abroad.) 13 Sail of large Dutch Ships, and a +number of small Vessels. As soon as we Anchor'd* (* The Endeavour took +nine days, and had to anchor fifteen times, in getting from Java Head, at +the entrance of Sunda Strait, to Batavia, a distance of 120 miles.) I +sent Lieutenant Hicks a shore to acquaint the Governor of our Arrival, +and to make an excuse for not Saluting; as we could only do it with 3 +Guns I thought it was better let alone.</p> + +<p>[At Batavia.]</p> + +<p>The Carpenter now deliver'd me in the defects of the ship, of which the +following is a copy:--</p> + +<p>"The Defects of His Majesty's Bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook, +Commander.</p> + +<p>"The Ship very leaky (as she makes from 12 to 6 Inches water per hour), +occasioned by her Main Kiel being wounded in many places and the Scarfe +of her Stem being very open. The false Kiel gone beyond the Midships +(from Forward and perhaps further), as I had no opportunity of seeing for +the water when hauld ashore for repair. Wounded on her Starboard side +under the Main Chains, where I immagine is the greatest leakes (but could +not come at it for the water). One pump on the Starboard side useless, +the others decayed within 1 1/2 Inch of the bore, otherwise Masts, Yards, +Boats, and Hull in pretty good condition.</p> + +<p>"Dated in Batavia Road,</p> + +<p>"this 10th of October, 1770.</p> + +<p>"J. SATTERLY."</p> + +<p>Previous to the above, I had consulted with the Carpenter and all the +other Officers concerning the Leake, and they were all unanimously of +Opinion that it was not safe to proceed to Europe without first seeing +her bottom; accordingly I resolved to apply for leave to heave her down +at this place, and, as I understood that this was to be done in writing, +I drew up the following request to be presented to the Governor, etc., +etc.:--</p> + +<p>"Lieutenant James Cook, commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark +Endeavour, Requests of the Right Hon'ble Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, +Governor-General, etc., etc., etc., the Indulgence of the following +Articles, viz.:</p> + +<p>"Firstly, That he may be allow'd a proper and convenient place to heave +down and repair His Brittannick Majesty's Ship under his command.</p> + +<p>"Secondly, That he may have leave to purchase such few Trifling Naval +stores as he may be in want of.</p> + +<p>"Thirdly, That he may be permitted daily to purchase such provisions as +he may want; also such an Additional quantity as may enable him to +proceed on his passage home to England.</p> + +<p>"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's +Bark Endeavour, in Batavia Road, the 11th +October, 1770.</p> + +<p>"JAMES COOK."</p> + +<p>In the morning I went on shore myself and had the foregoing request +Translated into Dutch by a Scotch Gentleman, a Merchant here.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. At 5 o'clock P.M. I was introduced to the Governor-General, +who received me very politely and told me that I should have every thing +I wanted, and that in the Morning my request should be laid before the +Council where I was desir'd to attend.</p> + +<p>About 9 o'clock in the Evening we had much rain, with some very heavy +Claps of Thunder, one of which carried away a Dutch Indiaman's Main Mast +by the Deck, and split it, the Maintopmast and Topgallantmast all to +shivers. She had had an Iron Spindle at the Maintopgallant Mast head +which had first attracted the Lightning. The ship lay about 2 Cable +lengths from us, and we were struck with the Thunder at the same time, +and in all probability we should have shared the same fate as the +Dutchman, had it not been for the Electrical Chain which we had but just +before got up; this carried the Lightning or Electrical matter over the +side clear of the Ship. The Shock was so great as to shake the whole ship +very sencibly. This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these +Chains to all Ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to Caution +people from having Iron Spindles at their Mast heads.* (* No instance is +known of ships fitted with properly constructed lightning conductors +having received any damage.)</p> + +<p>[At Batavia.]</p> + +<p>In the morning I went on shore to the Council Chamber and laid my request +before the Governour and Council, who gave me for answer that I should +have every thing I wanted.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. Received on board a Cask of Arrack and some Greens for +the Ship's Company.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. Early this morning a ship sail'd from hence for Holland by +which I had just time to write 2 or 3 lines to Mr. Stephens, Secretary of +the Admiralty, to acquaint him of our Arrival, after which I went on +shore and waited upon the Shabander, who has the direction of the Town, +Port, etc., to get an order to the Superintendent at Onrust to receive us +at that Island, but this, I was told, would not be ready before Tuesday +next. Received from the Shore Fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's +Company.</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. Fresh Sea and land breezes and fair weather. I had forgot +to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick +List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had +any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.* (* This was an +achievement indeed, and Cook records it in this simple observation. Of +the many ships which had arrived at Batavia after voyages across the +Pacific, none but had come to an anchor with crews decimated and +enfeebled through scurvy. Hawksworth mentions, probably on the authority +of Banks, that when passing Torres Straits there were several incipient +cases of this disease in the Endeavour. The fresh provisions obtained at +Savu probably dissipated these symptoms, if they were symptoms; but Mr. +Perry, the surgeon, in his report, given in the Introduction, distinctly +states that there were no cases after leaving Tahiti.)</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 16th. Finding, by a strict inquiry, that there were no private +person or persons in the place that could at this time advance me a +sufficient sum of money to defray the charge I might be at in repairing +and refitting the Ship--at least, if there were any, they would be afraid +to do it without leave from the Governor--wherefore I had nothing left +but to apply to the Governor himself, and accordingly drew up the +following request, which I laid before the Governor and Council this +morning, in consequence of which the Shebander had orders to supply me +with what money I wanted out of the Company's Treasure:--</p> + +<p>"Lieutenant James Cook, Commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark the +Endeavour, begs leave to represent to His Excellency the Right Honourable +Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., That he will +be in want of a Sum or Sums of Money in order to defray the Charge he +will be at in repairing and refiting His Brittannick Majesty's Ship at +this place; which sum or sums of money he is directed by his +Instructions, and empower'd by his commission, to give Bills of Exchange +on the respective Offices which Superintend His Brittannick Majesty's +Navy.</p> + +<p>"The said Lieutenant James Cook Requests of His Excellency, That he will +be pleased to order him to be supply'd with such sum or sums of money, +either out of the Company's Treasure, or permit such private persons to +do it as may be willing to advance money for Bills of Exchange on the +Honourable and Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Brittannick +Majesty's Navy, the Commissioners for Victualling His Majesty's Navy, and +the Commissioners for taking care of the Sick and Hurt.</p> + +<p>"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's +Bark the Endeavour, in Batavia Road, +the 16th of October, 1770.</p> + +<p>"JAMES COOK."</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 17th. In the P.M. I waited upon the Superintendent of Onrust, +with an order from the Shebander, to receive us at that Island, but this +order, the Superintendent told me, was not sufficient to impower him to +give me the conveniences and assistance I wanted, and when I came to call +upon the Shebander, I found this mistake was owing to the word "heave +down" being wrong translated; this Circumstance, trifling as it is, will +cause a delay of some days, as it cannot be set to rights until next +Council day, which is not till Friday.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 18th. In the P.M. received on board 2 live Oxen, 150 Gallons of +Arrack, 3 Barrels of Tar, and one of Pitch; at daylight in the A.M. took +up our Anchor and run down to Onrust.</p> + +<p>At 9 Anchor'd in 7 fathoms off Coopers Island, which lies close to +Onrust. There are wharfs at both of these Islands, and ships land there +stores, sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other, but it is only +at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down. Soon after +we Anchor'd I went on shore to the Officer of the Yard, to see if they +could not allow us some place to land our stores, but this could not be +granted without orders.</p> + +<p>Friday, 19th. In the P.M. I sent a Petty Officer to Mr. Hicks, who Lodges +ashore at Batavia for the recovery of his health, with orders to desire +him to wait upon the Shebander, in order to get the necessary orders +respecting us dispatched to this place as soon as possible.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 20th. Employ'd unrigging the ship, etc.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 21st. In the P.M. orders came down to the Officers of the yard to +comply with everything I wanted, but we could not yet get a Wharfe to +land our Stores, they being all taken up by shipping.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22nd. In the A.M. two ships went from the Wharfes at Coopers +Island, when we prepared to go along side one of them.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-14"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-14.jpg"></p> +<h4>FACSIMILE OF TUESDAY, 23RD OCTOBER, 1770.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23rd. In the P.M. hauled along side one of the Wharfes, in order +to take out our stores, etc., after which the Ship is to be deliver'd +into the Charge of the proper Officers at Onrust, who will (as I am +inform'd) heave her down, and repair her, with their own people, while +ours must stand and look on, who, if we were permitted, could do every +thing wanting to the Ship ourselves.* (* Here Mr. Corner's copy of the +Journal ends abruptly. The record for the next day explains the reason, +and there is no doubt that this was the copy of the Journal sent home. +The Queen's copy ends on 10th October. The remainder of the Journal is +taken from the Admiralty copy.)</p> + +<p>[Reports Sent Home from Batavia.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24th. Employ'd clearing the Ship, having a Store House to put +our Stores, etc., in. In the P.M. I went up to Town in order to put on +board the first Dutch Ship that Sails, a pacquet for the Admiralty +containing a Copy of my Journal, a Chart of the South Sea, another of New +Zeeland, and one of the East Coast of New Holland. In the morning the +General, accompanied by the Water Fiscall, some of the Council, and the +Commodore, each in their respective Boats, went out into the Road on +board the oldest Captain, in order to appoint him Commodore of the Fleet, +ready to Sail for Holland. The Ships was drawn up in 2 Lines, between +which the General past to the new Commodore's Ship, which lay the +farthest out. Each ship as he passed and repassed gave him 3 Cheers, and +as soon as he was on board, and the Dutch Flag Hoisted at the Main +Topmast Head, the other Commodore Saluted him with 21 Guns, and +immediately after Struck his Broad Pendant, which was again hoisted as +soon as the General left the other Ship; he was then Saluted with 17 Guns +by the new made Commodore, who now hoisted a Common Pendant. This +Ceremony of appointing a Commodore over the Grand Fleet, as they call it, +we were told is Yearly perform'd. I went out in my Boat on purpose to see +it, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, because we were told it +was one of the Grandest sights Batavia afforded; that may be too, and yet +it did not recompense us for our trouble. I thought that the whole was +but ill conducted, and the Fleet appear'd to be very badly mann'd. This +fleet consists of 10 or 12 stout Ships; not only these, but all or most +of their other Ships are pierced for 50 Guns, but have only their upper +Tier mounted, and these are more by half than they have men to fight.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25th. In the evening I sent the Admiralty Packet on board the +Kronenburg, Captain Fredrick Kelger, Commodore, who, together with +another Ship, sails immediately for the Cape, where she waits for the +remainder of the Fleet.*</p> + +<p>(* The following letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty (now in Public +Record Office) was also dispatched:--</p> + +<p>"To Philip Stephens, Esq.</p> + +<p>"Sir,</p> + +<p>"Please to acquaint my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty that I left +Rio de Janeiro the 8th of December, 1768, and on the 16th of January +following arrived in Success Bay in Straits La Maire, where we recruited +our Wood and Water; on the 21st of the same month we quitted Straits La +Maire, and arrived at George's Island on the 13th of April. In our +Passage to this Island I made a far more Westerly Track than any Ship had +ever done before; yet it was attended with no discovery until we arrived +within the Tropick, where we discovered several Islands. We met with as +Friendly a reception by the Natives of George's Island as I could wish, +and I took care to secure ourselves in such a manner as to put it out of +the power of the whole Island to drive us off. Some days preceeding the +3rd of June I sent Lieutenant Hicks to the Eastern part of this Island, +and Lieutenant Gore to York Island, with others of the Officers (Mr. +Green having furnished them with Instruments), to observe the Transit of +Venus, that we may have the better Chance of succeeding should the day +prove unfavourable; but in this We were so fortunate that the +observations were everywhere attended with every favourable Circumstance. +It was the 13th of July before I was ready to quitt this Island, after +which I spent near a month in exploring some other Islands which lay to +the Westward, before we steer'd to the Southward. On the 14th of August +we discovered a small Island laying in the Latitude of 22 degrees 27 +minutes South, Longitude 150 degrees 47 minutes West. After quitting this +Island I steered to the South, inclining a little to the East, until we +arrived in the Latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, without seeing the +least signs of Land. After this I steer'd to the Westward, between the +Latitude of 30 and 40 degrees until the 6th of October, on which day we +discovered the East Coast of New Zeland, which I found to consist of 2 +large Islands, extending from 34 to 48 degrees of South Latitude, both of +which I circumnavigated. On the 1st of April, 1770, I quitted New Zeland, +and steer'd to the Westward, until I fell in with the East Coast of New +Holland, in the Latitude of 30 degrees South. I coasted the shore of this +Country to the North, putting in at such places as I saw Convenient, +until we arrived in the Latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes South, where, +on the night of the 10th of June, we struck upon a Reef of Rocks, were we +lay 23 Hours, and received some very considerable damage. This proved a +fatal stroke to the remainder of the Voyage, as we were obliged to take +shelter in the first Port we met with, were we were detain'd repairing +the damage we had sustain'd until the 4th of August, and after all put to +Sea with a leaky Ship, and afterwards coasted the Shore to the Northward +through the most dangerous Navigation that perhaps ever ship was in, +until the 22nd of same month, when, being in the Latitude of 10 degrees +30 minutes South, we found a Passage into the Indian Sea between the +Northern extremity of New Holland and New Guinea. After getting through +the Passage I stood for the Coast of New Guinea, which we made on the +29th; but as we found it absolutely necessary to heave the Ship down to +Stop her leaks before we proceeded home, I made no stay here, but quitted +this Coast on the 30th of September, and made the best of my way to +Batavia, where we Arrived on the 10th instant, and soon after obtained +leave of the Governor and Council to be hove down at Onrust, where we +have but just got alongside of the Wharf in order to take out our Stores, +etc.</p> + +<p>"I send herewith a copy of my Journal, containing the Proceedings of the +whole Voyage, together with such Charts as I have had time to Copy, which +I judge will be sufficient for the present to illustrate said Journal. In +this Journal I have with undisguised truth and without gloss inserted the +whole Transactions of the Voyage, and made such remarks and have given +such discriptions of things as I thought was necessary in the best manner +I was Capable off. Altho' the discoverys made in this Voyage are not +great, yet I flatter myself they are such as may Merit the Attention of +their Lordships; and altho' I have failed in discovering the so much +talked of Southern Continent (which perhaps do not exist), and which I +myself had much at heart, yet I am confident that no part of the Failure +of such discovery can be laid to my charge. Had we been so fortunate not +to have run a shore much more would have been done in the latter part of +the Voyage than what was; but as it is, I presume this Voyage will be +found as compleat as any before made to the South Seas on the same +account. The plans I have drawn of the places I have been at were made +with all the Care and accuracy that time and Circumstances would admit +of. Thus far I am certain that the Latitude and Longitude of few parts of +the World are better settled than these. In this I was very much assisted +by Mr. Green, who let slip no one opportunity for making of Observations +for settling the Longitude during the whole Course of the Voyage; and the +many Valuable discoveries made by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in Natural +History, and other things useful to the learned world, cannot fail of +contributing very much to the Success of the Voyage. In justice to the +Officers and the whole Crew, I must say they have gone through the +fatigues and dangers of the whole Voyage with that cheerfulness and +Allertness that will always do Honour to British Seamen, and I have the +satisfaction to say that I have not lost one Man by sickness during the +whole Voyage. I hope that the repairs wanting to the Ship will not be so +great as to detain us any length of time. You may be assured that I shall +make no unnecessary delay either here or at any other place, but shall +make the best of my way home. I have the Honour to be with the greatest +respect,</p> + +<p>"Sir,</p> + +<p>"Your most Obedient Humble Servant,</p> + +<p>"(Signed) JAMES COOK.</p> + +<p>"Endeavour Bark, +at Onrust, near Batavia, +the 23rd of October, 1770."</p> + +<p>"Although the discoveries made in this voyage are not great." In these +modest words does Cook describe his work. I read them to mean that with +his love of accuracy he did not wish to claim his explorations of New +Zealand and the East Coast of Australia as discoveries, as it was already +known that lands existed there; but seeing how little was known, and how +completely he did his work, there are but few men who would have +refrained from classing them, as indeed he truly might have, as +discoveries.)</p> + +<p>Friday, 26th. Set up the Ship's Tent for the reception of the Ship's +Company, several of them begin to be taken ill, owing, as I suppose, to +the extream hot weather.</p> + +<p>[Heaving down at Batavia.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 27th. Employed getting out Stores, Ballast, etc.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 28th. Employ'd as above.</p> + +<p>Monday, 29th, Tuesday, 30th, Wednesday, 31st. Employ'd clearing the Ship.</p> + +<p>[November 1770.]</p> + +<p>Thursday, November 1st. Got every thing out of the Ship, and all clear +for going alongside of the Carreening, but about Noon I received a +message from the Officer at Onrust acquainting me that they could not +receive us there until they had first despatched the Ships bound to +Europe, which were down here taking in pepper.</p> + +<p>Friday, 2nd, Saturday, 3rd, Sunday, 4th. Employ'd overhauling the +rigging, and making rope, making and repairing Sails.</p> + +<p>Monday, 5th. Clear, hot sultry weather. In the A.M. transported the ship +over to Onrust, alongside one of the Carreening Wharfs.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 6th. In the A.M. the officers of the Yard took the Ship in hand, +and sent on board a number of Carpenters, Caulkers, Riggers, Slaves, +etc., to make ready to heave down.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 7th. Employ'd getting ready to heave down in the P.M. We had +the misfortune to loose Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon, who died at Batavia +of a Fever after a short illness, of which disease and others several of +our people are daily taken ill, which will make his loss be the more +severely felt; he was succeeded by Mr. Perry, his mate, who is equally as +well skilled in his profession.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 8th. In the night had much Thunder, Lightning, and Rain; during +the day fair weather, which gave us time to get everything in readiness +for heaving down.</p> + +<p>Friday, 9th. In the P.M. hove the Larboard side of the Ship, Kiel out, +and found her bottom to be in a far worse condition than we expected; the +false kiel was gone to within 20 feet of the Stern post, the main Kiel +wounded in many places very considerably, a great quantity of Sheathing +off, and several planks much damaged, especially under the Main Channell +near the Kiel, where 2 planks and a 1/2, near 6 feet in length, were +within 1/8th of an inch of being cutt through; and here the worms had +made their way quite into the timbers, so that it was a matter of +surprise to every one who saw her bottom how we had kept her above water, +and yet in this condition we had sailed some hundreds of Leagues, in as +dangerous a Navigation as in any part of the World, happy in being +ignorant of the continual danger we were in. In the evening righted the +Ship, having only time to patch up some of the worst places to prevent +the water getting in in large quantitys for the present. In the morning +hove her down again, and most of the Carpenters and Caulkers in the Yard +(which are not a few) were set to work upon her Bottom, and at the same +time a number of Slaves were employ'd bailing the water out of the Hold. +Our people, altho' they attend, were seldom called upon; indeed, by this +time we were so weakned by sickness that we could not muster above 20 Men +and Officers that were able to do duty, so little should we have been +able to have hove her down and repair'd her ourselves, as I at one time +thought us capable of.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 10th. In the P.M. we were obliged to righten the ship before +night, by reason of her making water in her upper works faster than we +could free; it made it necessary to have her weather works inside and out +caulked, which before was thought unnecessary.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 11th. In the A.M., having caulked her upper works, hove out the +Larboard side again, which a number of Workmen were employ'd repairing.</p> + +<p>Monday, 12th. In the P.M. finished the Larboard side, and in the A.M. +began to get ready to heave out the other.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 13th. This day they hove the Starboard side Kiel out, which we +found very little damaged, and was therefore soon done with.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 14th. Employ'd clearing the Ship of the Carreening gear, her +bottom being now thoroughly repair'd, and very much to my satisfaction. +In justice to the Officers and Workmen of this Yard, I must say that I do +not believe that there is a Marine Yard in the World where work is done +with more alertness than here, or where there are better conveniences for +heaving Ships down both in point of safety and despatch. Here they heave +down by 2 masts, which is not now Practised by the English; but I hold it +to be much safer and more expeditious than by heaving down by one mast; a +man must not only be strongly bigotted to his own customs, but in some +measure divested of reason, that will not allow this, after seeing with +how much ease and safety the Dutch at Onrust heave down their largest +ships.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 15th. In the A.M. transported the Ship from Onrust to Cooper's +Island, and moored her alongside the Wharf.</p> + +<p>Friday, 16th. Employ'd taking in Coals and Ballast; sent one of the +decay'd Pumps up to Batavia to have a new one made by it.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 17th, Sunday, 18th, Monday, 19th, Tuesday, 20th, Wednesday, +21st, Thursday, 22nd, Friday, 23rd, Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th. +Employ'd rigging the Ship, getting on board Stores and Water, which last +we have sent from Batavia at the rate of Six shillings and 8 pence a +Leager, or 150 Gallons. We are now become so sickly that we seldom can +muster above 12 or 14 hands to do duty.</p> + +<p>Monday, 26th. In the night had much rain, after which the Westerly +Monsoons set in, which blow here generally in the night from the +South-West or from the land, in the day from the North-West or North.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 27th, Wednesday, 28th, Thursday, 29th, Friday, 30th, [December +1770.] Saturday, December 1st, Sunday, 2nd, Monday, 3rd, Tuesday, 4th, +Wednesday, 5th, Thursday, 6th, Friday, 7th. Employ'd getting on board +Stores, Provisions, Water, rigging the Ship, repairing and bending the +Sails. On the last of these days, having got all the Sick on board, and +every other thing from the Island, we hauled off from the Wharfe with a +design to run up to Batavia road, but the Wind proving scant obliged us +to lay at anchor.</p> + +<p>[At Batavia.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 8th. Fresh breezes Westerly, and fair weather. At 10 A.M. +weigh'd and run up to Batavia road, where we anchor'd in 4 1/2 fathoms +water.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. First and latter parts ditto weather, middle squally with +rain. In the P.M. sent on shore a Boat load of empty casks, and at the +same time went myself in order to forward the things we wanted, and in +the evening sent on board the new Pump, with some other stores that were +immediately wanting.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. For the most part Squally, with rain; the people employ'd +scraping the paint work.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th, Wednesday, 12th, Thursday, 13th, Friday, 14th. For the +most part of these days fair weather. Employ'd taking on board Provisions +and Water; this last is put on board at 5 shillings a Leager or 150 +Gallons.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. anchor'd here the Earl of Elgin, Captain +Cooke, an English East India Company Ship from Madras, bound to China, +but having lost her passage, put in here to wait for the next Season.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th, Monday, 17th. Employ'd taking on board Provisions; Scraping +and Painting the Ship.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Anchored here the +Phoenix, Captain Black, an English Country Ship from Bencoolen.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th, Thursday, 20th, Friday, 21st, Saturday, 22nd, Sunday, +23rd, Monday, 24th. Fresh breezes, and for the most part fair weather. +Completed taking on board Provisions, Water, etc., and getting the Ship +ready for sea.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th. Having now compleatly refitted the ship, and taken in a +sufficient quantity of Provisions of all kinds, I this afternoon took +leave of the General, and such others of the principal Gentlemen as I had +any connection with, all of whom upon every occasion gave me all the +assistance I required. A small dispute, however, now hapned between me +and some of the Dutch Naval Officers about a Seaman that had run from one +of the Dutch Ships in the Road, and enter'd on board mine; this man the +General demanded as a Subject of Holland, and I promised to deliver him +up provided he was not an English Subject, and sent the necessary orders +on board for that purpose. In the morning the Commodore's Captain came +and told me that he had been on board my ship for the man, but that the +Officer had refused to give him up, alledging that he was an Englishman, +and that he, the Captain, was just then come from the General to demand +the man of me as a Deanish Subject, he standing upon their Ship's books +as born at Elsinore. I told him that I believed there must be some +mistake in the General's message, for I apprehended he would not demand a +Deanish Seaman from me who had committed no other crime than preferring +the English Service before that of the Dutch; but to convince him how +unwilling I was to disoblige any one concerned, I had sent orders on +board to deliver the man to him in case he was found to be a Foreigner; +but as that was not done I suspected that the man was a Subject of +England, and if I found him to be such I was resolved to keep him. Soon +after this I received a letter from Mr. Hicks, which I carried to the +Shabander, and desired that it might be shewn to the General, and at the +same time to acquaint him that, after my having such unanswerable proof +of the man's being an English Subject, as was mentioned in that letter, +it was impossible for me to deliver him up. After this I heard no more +about it.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. In the P.M. myself, Mr. Banks, and all the Gentlemen +came on board, and at 6 a.m. weigh'd and came to sail with a light breeze +at South-West. The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with 3 cheers and 13 Guns, +and soon after the Garrison with 14, both of which we return'd. Soon +after this the Sea breeze set in at North by West, which obliged us to +Anchor just without the Ships in the Road. The number of Sick on board at +this time amounts to 40 or upwards, and the rest of the Ship's Company +are in a weakly condition, having been every one sick except the +Sailmaker, an old Man about 70 or 80 years of age; and what is still more +extraordinary in this man is his being generally more or less drunk every +day. But notwithstanding this general sickness, we lost but 7 men in the +whole: the Surgeon, 3 Seamen, Mr. Green's Servant, and Tupia and his +Servant, both of which fell a sacrifice to this unwholesome climate +before they had reached the object of their wishes. Tupia's death, +indeed, cannot be said to be owing wholy to the unwholesome air of +Batavia; the long want of a Vegetable Diet, which he had all his life +before been used to, had brought upon him all the Disorders attending a +Sea life. He was a shrewd, sensible, ingenious man, but proud and +obstinate, which often made his situation on board both disagreeable to +himself and those about him, and tended much to promote the diseases +which put a Period to his Life.* (* It is rather curious that Cook does +not here record his sense of the value of Tupia's services as +interpreter, which he has before alluded to in the Journal. There is no +doubt that his presence on board when the ship was in New Zealand was the +greatest advantage, affording a means of communication with the natives, +which prevented the usual gross misunderstandings which arise as to the +object of the visit of an exploring ship. Without him, even with Cook's +humane intention and good management, friendly relations would have been +much more difficult to establish.)</p> + +<p>[Description of Batavia.]</p> + +<p>Batavia is a place that hath been so often visited by Europeans, and so +many accounts of it extant, that any discription I could give would seem +unnecessary; besides, I have neither abilities nor materials sufficient +for such an undertaking, for whoever gives a faithful account of this +place must in many things contradict all the Authors I have had an +opportunity to consult; but this task I shall leave to some abler hand, +and only take notice of such things that seem to me necessary for Seamen +to know.</p> + +<p>The City of Batavia is situated on a low flatt near the Sea, in the +Bottom of a large Bay of the same name, which lies on the North side of +Java, about 8 Leagues from the Straits of Sunda; it lies in 6 degrees 10 +minutes South Latitude, and 106 degrees 50 minutes East Longitude from +the Meridian of Greenwich, settled by Astronomical Observations made on +the spot by the Reverend Mr. Mohr, who has built a very ellegant +Observatory, which is as well furnished with Instruments as most in +Europe. Most of the Streets in the City have canals of water running +through them, which unite into one Stream about 1/2 a mile before they +discharge themselves into the Sea; this is about 100 feet broad, and is +built far enough out into the Sea to have at its entrance a sufficient +depth of Water to admit Small Craft, Luggage boats, etc. The +communication between the Sea and the City is by this Canal alone, and +this only in the day; for it is shut up every night by a Boom, through +which no Boats can pass from about 6 o'clock in the evening to between 5 +and 6 the next morning. Here stands the Custom house, where all goods, +either imported or exported, pay the Customary Dutys; at least, an +Account is here taken of them, and nothing can pass without a Permit, +wether it pays duty or no. All kinds of refreshments, Naval Stores, and +Sea Provisions are to be had here; but there are few Articles but what +bear a very high Price, especially if you take them of the Company, which +you are obliged to do if you want any Quantity; that is, of such Articles +as they monoplie to themselves, which are all manner of Naval Stores and +Salted Provisions.</p> + +<p>The Road of Batavia, or place where Shipping Anchor, lies right before +the City, and is so large as to contain any number of Shipping. You +anchor with the Dome of the Great Church, bearing about South in 7, 6, or +5 fathoms water, about 1 1/2 or 2 miles from the Shore; and nearer you +cannot come with Large Ships, by reason of a Mud bank which lines all the +Shore of the Bay. The ground that you Anchor in is of such a nature that +the Anchors buries themselves so deep that it is with difficulty they are +got out; for this reason Ships always lays at Single Anchor, being in no +manner of danger of fouling them. You lay apparently open to the winds +from the North-West to the East-North-East; but the Sea that is caused by +these winds is a good deal broke before it reaches the Road by the small +Islands and Shoals without. These Shoals have all of them either Buoys or +Beacons upon them; but if these Guides should be moved, there is a very +good Chart of this Bay and the Coast of Java as far as the Straits of +Sunda, bound up in the English East India Pilot, sold by Mount & Page. In +this Chart everything seems to be very accurately delineated.</p> + +<p>Fresh water and wood for fuel must be purchased here. The water is put on +board the Ship in the Road at a Spanish Dollar, or 5 shillings a Leager, +containing 150 Gallons; but if sent to Onrust, which is one League from +the Road, it cost a Duccatoon, or 6 shillings 8 pence. The supplying +shipping with water, especially Foreigners, is a perquisite of the +Commodore, who is always an Officer in the State's Service, but acts here +under the Company. He takes care to tell you that the Water is very good, +and will keep sweet at Sea; whereas everybody else tells you that it is +not so.</p> + +<p>Be this as it will, Batavia is certainly a place that Europeans need not +covet to go to; but if necessity obliges them, they will do well to make +their stay as short as possible, otherwise they will soon feel the +effects of the unwholesome air of Batavia, which, I firmly believe, is +the Death of more Europeans than any other place upon the Globe of the +same extent. Such, at least, is my opinion of it, which is founded on +facts. We came in here with as healthy a Ship's Company as need go to +Sea, and after a stay of not quite 3 months left it in the condition of +an Hospital Ship, besides the loss of 7 men; and yet all the Dutch +Captains I had an opportunity to converse with said that we had been very +lucky, and wondered that we had not lost half our people in that time.* +(* Batavia bears an evil reputation for health to this day; but it must +be remembered that the Endeavour lay there during the rainy or most +unhealthy season.)</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch10"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 10. BATAVIA TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</h2> + +<p>[December 1770.]</p> + +<p>THURSDAY, 27th. Moderate breezes at West and North-West, with fair +weather. At 6 a.m. weighed, and stood out to Sea; at Noon the Island of +Edam bore North by East, distant 3 miles.</p> + +<p>Friday, 28th. Winds variable between the North and West. At 6 in the +Evening anchored in 13 fathoms, Edam Island bearing East, distant 1 1/2 +miles. At day light in the morning weighed again, and keept plying to +windward between Edam and Duffin's Island, but gained very little owing +to the variableness of the winds.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. In the P.M. anchored in 12 fathoms water in the Evening +until daylight, when we got again under Sail, with the wind at +West-South-West, and stood out North-West for the Thousand Islands. +Before noon the wind veer'd to North-West, and we endeavour'd to turn +through between Pulo Pare and Wapping Island.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. After making a short trip to the North-East, we tacked, and +weather'd Pulo Pare, and stood in for the Main, having the wind at +North-West, a fresh breeze. We fetched Maneaters Island (a small island +laying under the Main midway between Batavia and Bantam) after making a +trip to the North-East, and finding that we lost ground, we stood in +shore again and anchored in 13 fathoms, the above mentioned Island +bearing South-West by West, distant 1 mile, and in one with Bantam Hill. +At 7 A.M. weighed, with the wind at West-South-West, and stood to the +North-West, and weather'd Wapping Island, having the current in our +favour.</p> + +<p>Monday, 31st. At 1 P.M. the wind veer'd to the Northward; we tack and +stood to the Westward, and weather'd Pulo Baby. In the Evening Anchor'd +between this Island and Bantam Bay, the Island bearing North, distant 2 +miles, and Bantam Point West; at 5 a.m. weighed with the wind at West by +South, which afterwards proved variable; at noon Bantam Point South-West +1/2 West, distant 3 Leagues.</p> + +<p>JANUARY, 1771.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 1st. In the P.M. stood over for the Sumatra Shore, having the +wind at South-South-West, a fresh breeze, and the current in our favour; +but this last shifted and set to the Eastward in the Evening, and obliged +us to Anchor in 30 fathoms, under the Islands which lay off Verekens +point, which point constitutes the narrowest part of the Straits of +Sunda. Here we found the current set to the South-West the most part of +the night; at 5 a.m. weigh'd with the wind at North-West, and stood to +the South-West between the Island Thwart-the-way and Sumatra; the wind +soon after coming to the westward we stood over for the Java Shore. At +noon the South point of Peper Bay bore South-West by South, and Anger +Point North-East 1/2 East, distant 2 Leagues; tacked and stood to the +North-West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 2nd. First and middle parts fresh breezes at South-West, and +fair the remainder, squally with rain; plying to windward between +Cracatoa and the Java shore without gaining anything.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 3rd. In the P.M. had it very squally, with heavy showers of +rain; at 1/2 past 7 anchor'd in 19 fathoms, Cracatoa Island South-West, +distance 3 Leagues. In the morning came to sail, having very squally +variable weather; at Noon Cracatoa West 2 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Friday, 4th. Most part of these 24 hours squally, rainy weather, winds +variable between the North-North-West and South-South-West; at 5 p.m. +anchor'd in 28 fathoms water, Cracatoa West, distant 3 miles. Some time +after the wind veer'd to North-West, with which we got under sail, but +the wind dying away we advanced but little to the South-West before noon, +at which time Princes Island bore South-West, distance 8 or 9 Leagues.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 5th. Had fresh breezes at South-West, with squally, rainy +weather until the evening, when it clear up, and the wind veer'd to South +and South-East, with which we stood to the South-West all night. In the +morning the wind veer'd to North-East, which was still in our favour; at +noon Princes Island bore West 1/2 South, distant 3 Leagues.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor. Princes Island, Sunda Strait.]</p> + +<p>Sunday, 6th. At 3 o'clock in the P.M. anchor'd under the South-East side +of Princes Island in 18 fathoms water, in order to recruite our wood and +water, and to procure refreshments for the people, which are now in a +much worse state of health than when we left Batavia. After coming to an +anchor I went on shore to look at the watering place, and to speak with +the Natives, some of whom were upon the Beach. I found the watering place +convenient, and the water to all appearance good, Provided proper care is +taken in the filling of it. The Natives seemed inclined to supply us with +Turtle, Fowls, etc.; Articles that I intended laying in as great a stock +as possible for the benefit of the Sick, and to suffer every one to +purchase what they pleased for themselves, as I found these people as +easy to traffick with as Europeans. In the morning sent the Gunner ashore +with some hands to fill water, while others were empboy'd putting the +whole to rights, sending on shore Empty Casks, etc. Served Turtle to the +Ship's Company. Yesterday was the only Salt meat day they have had since +our arrival at Java, which is now near 4 months.</p> + +<p>Monday, 7th. From this day till Monday 14th we were employ'd wooding and +watering, being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Having now +compleated both we hoisted in the Long boat, and made ready to put to +Sea, having on board a pretty good stock of refreshments, which we +purchased of the natives, such as Turtle, Fowls, Fish, two species of +Deer, one about as big as a small sheep, the other no bigger than a +Rabbit; both sorts eat very well, but are only for present use, as they +seldom lived above 24 hours in our possession. We likewise got fruit of +several sorts, such as Cocoa Nutts, plantains, Limes, etc. The Trade on +our part was carried on chiefly with money (Spanish Dollars); the natives +set but little value upon any thing else. Such of our people as had not +this Article traded with Old Shirts, etc., at a great disadvantage.</p> + +<p>[Batavia to Capetown.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 15th. Had variable light airs of wind, with which we could not +get under sail until the morning, when we weighed with a light breeze at +North-East, which was soon succeeded by a calm.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 16th. Had it calm all P.M., which at 5 o'clock obliged us to +Anchor under the South Point of Princes Island, the said Point bearing +South-West by West, distance 2 miles. At 8 o'clock in the A.M. a light +breeze sprung up at North, with which we weigh'd and stood out to Sea. At +noon Java Head bore South-East by South, distance 2 Leagues, and the West +Point of Princes Island North-North-West, distance 5 Leagues; Latitude +Observed 6 degrees 45 minutes South. Java Head, from which I take my +departure, lies in the Latitude of 6 degrees 49 minutes South, and +Longitude 255 degrees 12 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich, +deduced from several Astronomical Observations made at Batavia by the +Reverend Mr. Mohr.* (* The true longitude of Java Head is 254 degrees 49 +minutes West.)</p> + +<p>Thursday, 17th. Little wind and fair at 6 p.m. Java head bore +East-North-East, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; at 6 a.m. it bore +North-North-East, 12 Leagues. Wind North-East; course South 27 degrees 15 +minutes West; distance 48 miles; latitude 7 degrees 32 minutes South; +longitude 255 degrees 35 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 18th. Light Airs and Calms, with Showers of Rain. Wind Variable; +course South-West 1/2 South; distance 30 miles; latitude 7 degrees 55 +minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 19th. For the most part of these 24 hours had little wind and +fair weather. Wind Westerly; course South 3 degrees East; distance 53 +miles; latitude 8 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 255 degrees 51 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 20th. Light Airs and Calms, with some Showers of Rain. Saw 2 Sail +in the North-West Quarter standing to the South-West; one of them shew'd +Dutch Colours. Wind North Westerly; course South 44 degrees West; +distance 36 miles; latitude 9 degrees 14 minutes South; longitude 256 +degrees 15 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 21st. First part Little wind, the remainder a Gentle breeze; the +2 Sail in sight. Wind Easterly; course South 57 degrees West; distance 58 +miles; latitude 9 degrees 46 minutes South; longitude 257 degrees 5 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 22nd. Little wind and fair weather. Wind South-Westerly; course +North 10 degrees West; distance 17 miles; latitude 9 degrees 29 minutes +South; longitude 257 degrees 8 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 23rd. Ditto weather; a swell from the Southward, and which we +have had ever since we left the Straits of Sunda. Wind Ditto; course East +Southerly; distance 18 miles; latitude 9 degrees 30 minutes South; +longitude 256 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 24th. First part Light Airs, the remainder Calm. In the A.M. +died John Trusslove, Corporal of Marines, a man much esteem'd by every +body on board. Many of our people at this time lay dangerously ill of +Fevers and Fluxes. We are inclinable to attribute this to the water we +took in at Princes Island, and have put lime into the Casks in order to +purifie it. Wind South-West by South to South-South-East; course South; +distance 4 miles; latitude 9 degrees 34 minutes South; longitude 256 +degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 25th. Light Airs and Calms; hot, sultry weather. Departed this +life Mr. Sporing, a Gentleman belonging to Mr Banks's retinue. Wind +Variable and Calms; course South 30 degrees East; distance 12 miles; +latitude 9 degrees 44 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 44 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 26th. First part little wind, the remainder calm and very hot; +set up the Topmast Rigging, and clear'd ship between Decks, and wash her +with Vinegar. Wind South Westerly; course South-East; distance 17 miles; +latitude 9 degrees 56 minutes South; longitude 256 degrees 32 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 27th. Little wind, and sometimes calm. In the evening found the +Variation to be 2 degrees 51 minutes West. Departed this life Mr. Sydney +Parkinson, Natural History Painter to Mr. Banks, and soon after John +Ravenhill, Sailmaker, a man much advanced in years. Wind Variable; course +South 30 degrees West; distance 19 miles; latitude 10 degrees 12 minutes +South; longitude 256 degrees 41 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 28th. Moderate breezes, with some Squalls, attended with Showers +of Rain. Wind West-North-West, North-East; course South 43 degrees West; +distance 66 miles; latitude 11 degrees 0 minutes South; longitude 257 +degrees 27 West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 29th. Very variable weather; sometimes squally, with rain, other +times little wind and calms. In the Night died Mr. Charles Green, who was +sent out by the Royal Society to observe the Transit of Venus. He had +long been in a bad state of health, which he took no care to repair, but, +on the contrary, lived in such a manner as greatly promoted the disorders +he had had long upon him; this brought on the Flux, which put a period to +his life. Wind North Westerly; course South 40 degrees West; distance 74 +miles; latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes South; longitude 258 degrees 15 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 30th. First and Latter parts moderate breezes and Cloudy +weather; the middle Squally, with rain, Thunder, and Lightning. Died of +the Flux Samuel Moody and Francis Haite, 2 of the Carpenter's Crew. Wind +Easterly; course South 40 degrees West; distance 67 miles; latitude 12 +degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 258 degrees 59 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 31st. First part Moderate and fair, the remainder frequent +Squalls, attended with Showers of Rain. In the course of this 24 Hours we +have had 4 men died of the Flux, viz., John Thompson, Ship's Cook; +Benjamin Jordan, Carpenter's Mate; James Nickolson and Archibald Wolf, +Seamen; a melancholy proof of the calamitieous situation we are at +present in, having hardly well men enough to tend the Sails and look +after the Sick, many of whom are so ill that we have not the least hopes +of their recovery. Wind East-South-East; course South-West; distance 80 +miles; latitude 13 degrees 42 minutes South; longitude 259 degrees 55 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>[February 1771.]</p> + +<p>Friday, February 1st. Fresh Gales, with flying showers of rain. Clean'd +between Decks, and washed with Vinegar. Wind South-East by South; course +South 58 1/2 degrees West; distance 119 miles; latitude 14 degrees 44 +minutes South; longitude 261 degrees 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 2nd. A Fresh Trade, and mostly fair weather. Departed this life +Daniel Roberts, Gunner's Servant, who died of the Flux. Since we have had +a fresh Trade Wind this fatal disorder hath seem'd to be at a stand; yet +there are several people which are so far gone, and brought so very low +by it, that we have not the least hopes of their recovery. Wind +East-South-East; course South 61 degrees West; distance 131 miles; +latitude 15 degrees 48 minutes South; longitude 264 degrees 16 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 3rd. Ditto weather. In the Evening found the variation to be 2 +degrees 56 minutes West. Departed this life John Thurman, Sailmaker's +Assistant. Wind Ditto; course South 65 degrees West; distance 128 miles; +latitude 16 degrees 40 minutes South; longitude 266 degrees 16 West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 4th. A fresh Trade and hazey weather, with some Squalls, attended +with Small Rain; unbent the Main Topsail to repair, and bent another. In +the night died of the Flux Mr. John Bootie, Midshipman, and Mr. John +Gathrey, Boatswain. Wind South-East; course South 69 degrees West; +distance 141 miles; latitude 17 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 268 +degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th. A fresh Trade wind, and hazey, cloudy weather. Employ'd +repairing Sails; appointed Samuel Evans, one of the Boatswain's Mates, +and Coxswain of the Pinnace, to be Boatswain, in the room of Mr. Gathrey, +deceased, and order'd a Survey to be taken of the Stores. Wind East by +South; course West 15 degrees South; distance 141 miles; latitude 18 +degrees 6 minutes South; longitude 270 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th. A Fresh Trade wind and fair weather. In the night died +Mr. John Monkhouse, Midshipman, and Brother to the late Surgeon. Wind +South-East; course West 12 degrees South; distance 126 miles; latitude 18 +degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 272 degrees 28 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. Gentle Gales, with some Showers in the night. In the +Evening found the variation to be 3 degrees 24 minutes West, and in the +Morning I took several observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result +of which, carried on to Noon, gave 276 degrees 19 minutes West Longitude +from Greenwich, which is 2 degrees to the Westward of that given by the +Log; this, I believe, is owing to a following Sea, which I have not as +yet allowed, for I judge it to be 6 miles a day since we have had the +South-East Trade wind. Wind South-East; course South 75 degrees 15 +minutes West; distance 110 miles; latitude 18 degrees 58 minutes South; +longitude 274 degrees 20 minutes per Log, 276 degrees 19 minutes per +Observation.</p> + +<p>Friday, 8th. Winds as Yesterday; clear weather in the day, and Showrey in +the Night. In the morning took Observations again of the Sun and Moon, +the mean result of which, reduced to noon, gave 278 degrees 50 minutes +West, which is 2 degrees 31 minutes West of Yesterday's Observation; the +log gives 2 degrees 20 minutes. Wind South-East; course South 78 degrees +West; distance 127 miles; latitude 19 degrees 24 minutes South; longitude +276 degrees 40 minutes per Log, 278 degrees 50 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 9th. Gentle Gales and fair weather in the morning. Saw a Ship +on our Larboard Quarter, which hoisted Dutch Colours. Wind South-East; +course South 74 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 127 miles; latitude 19 +degrees 58 minutes South.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 10th. Fresh breezes and Hazey weather. Lost sight in the night of +the Dutch Ship, she having out sail'd us. Wind South-East quarter; course +South 77 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 136 miles; latitude 20 degrees +28 minutes South; longitude 281 degrees 12 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 11th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. Some hands constantly +employ'd repairing Sails. Wind Ditto; course South 75 degrees West; +distance 126 miles; latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 283 +degrees 22 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 12th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. At 7 a.m. died of the +Flux, after a long and painful illness, Mr. John Satterly, Carpenter, a +man much Esteem'd by me and every Gentleman on board. In his room I +appoint George Nowell, one of the Carpenter's Crew, having only him and +one more left. Wind South-South-East; course South 71 minutes West; +distance 83 miles; latitude 21 degrees 25 minutes South; longitude 284 +degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 13th. Weather as Yesterday. Employ'd Surveying the Carpenter's +Stores and repairing Sails. Wind Ditto; course South 72 degrees 30 +minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 21 degrees 51 minutes South; +longitude 286 degrees 15 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 14th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy, with some Showers of Rain. +Variation per Azimuth 4 degrees 10 minutes West. Died Alexander Lindsay, +Seaman; this man was one of those we got at Batavia, and had been some +time in India. Winds Ditto; course South 73 degrees 15 minutes West; +distance 105 miles; latitude 22 degrees 21 minutes South; longitude 288 +degrees 3 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 15th. Ditto Weather. Died of the Flux Daniel Preston, Marine. +Wind South-East by East; course South 81 degrees 15 minutes West; +distance 123 miles; latitude 22 degrees 40 minutes; longitude 290 degrees +15 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 16th. A Fresh Trade and Cloudy weather. Employ'd repairing +Sails, rigging, etc. Wind Ditto; course South 84 degrees West; distance +115 miles; latitude 22 degrees 52 minutes South; longitude 292 degrees 20 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 17th. Fresh Gales, with some Showers of rain. Variation per +Azimuth 10 degrees 20 minutes Westerly. Wind South-East by South; course +South 79 degrees 45 minutes West; distance 157 miles; latitude 23 degrees +20 minutes South; longitude 295 8 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 18th. Fair and pleasant weather. Wind South-East by East; course +South 75 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 148 miles; latitude 23 degrees +57 minutes South; longitude 297 degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 19th. Ditto weather. Wind South-East by East and South; course +South 77 degrees West; distance 130 miles; latitude 24 degrees 26 minutes +South; longitude 300 degrees 5 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. Fresh Gales and clear weather. Variation per Azimuth 12 +degrees 15 minutes West. This morning the Carpenter and his Mate set +about repairing the Long boat, being the first day they have been able to +work since we left Princes Island. Wind South; course South 75 degrees 45 +minutes West; distance 127 miles; latitude 24 degrees 57 minutes South; +longitude 302 degrees 21 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 21st. First and middle parts fair weather; Latter Squally, +attended with Showers of Rain. Between 2 and 3 o'Clock p.m. took several +Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gave 306 +degrees 33 minutes West Longitude from Greenwich, which is 1 degree 55 +minutes West of account, and corresponds very well with the last +Observations, for at that time the Ship was 2 degrees 10 minutes West of +account. In the Night died of the Flux Alexander Simpson, a very good +Seaman. In the Morning punished Thomas Rossiter with 12 lashes for +getting Drunk, grossly assaulting the Officer of the Watch, and beating +some of the Sick. Wind South to East-South-East; course West by South; +distance 126 miles; latitude 25 degrees 21 minutes South; longitude 304 +degrees 39 minutes per Account, 306 degrees 34 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Friday, 22nd. Fresh Trade and fair weather. Nothing remarkable. Wind +South-East by South; course South 70 degrees 45 minutes West; distance +133 miles; latitude 26 degrees 5 minutes South; longitude 306 degrees 59 +minutes West, 308 degrees 54 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 23rd. Ditto Winds and weather. Variation per Evening Amplitude +17 degrees 30 minutes West. Wind Ditto; course South 64 degrees 14 +minutes West; distance 124 miles; latitude 26 degrees 59 minutes; +longitude 309 degrees 6 minutes West, 311 degrees 28 minutes per +Observation.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 24th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. In the A.M. took the +opportunity of a fine morning to stay the Main Mast, and set up the +Topmast Rigging. Saw an Albatross. Wind Ditto; course South 66 degrees 45 +minutes West; distance 117 miles; latitude 27 degrees 45 minutes South; +longitude 311 degrees 7 minutes West, 313 degrees 41 minutes per +Observation.</p> + +<p>Monday, 25th. Gentle Gales, and fair weather. Variation per Evening +Azimuth 24 degrees 20 minutes West, and by the Morning Amplitude 24 +degrees West Longitude; by Observation of the [circle around a dot, sun] +and [crescent, moon] is 3 degrees to the Westwarn of the Log, which shews +that the Ship has gain'd upon the Log 1 degree 5 minutes in 3 Days, in +which time we have always found the Observ'd Latitude to the Southward of +that given by the Log. These Joint Observations proves that there must be +a current setting between the South and West. Wind East by South; course +South 58 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 122 miles; latitude 28 degrees +49 minutes South; longitude 313 degrees 6 minutes West, 316 degrees 6 +minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 26th. Fresh Gales. Variation by Azimuth in the Evening 26 +degrees 10 minutes West. Wind South-East by East; course South 82 degrees +West; distance 122 miles; latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes South; longitude +315 degrees 24 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 27th. Ditto Gales and Cloudy. In the A.M. died of the Flux +Henry Jeffs, Emanuel Parreyra, and Peter Morgan, Seamen; the last came +Sick on board at Batavia, of which he never recover'd, and the other 2 +had long been past all hopes of recovery, so that the death of these 3 +men in one day did not in the least alarm us.* (* These were the last +deaths directly attributable to the dysentery contracted at Batavia. +Though always enjoying an unenviable reputation, Batavia seems to have +had, this year, a more unhealthy season than usual. The Endeavour lost +seven persons while at Batavia, and twenty-three after sailing up to this +date.) On the contrary, we are in hopes that they will be the last that +will fall a sacrifice to this fatal disorder, for such as are now ill of +it are in a fair way of recovering. Wind East by South, East by +North-North-East; course South 77 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 108 +miles; latitude 29 degrees 30 minutes South; longitude 317 degrees 25 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 28th. Moderate breezes and fair weather until near 5 o'Clock in +the A.M., when a heavy Squall from the South-West, attended with rain, +took us all aback, and obliged us to put before the wind, the better to +take in our Sails; but before this could be done the Foretopsail was +split in several places. By 6 o'clock the Topsails and Mainsail were +handed, and we brought too under the Foresail and Mizen; at 8 it fell +more moderate, and we set the Mainsail, and brought another Foretopsail +to the Yard; at Noon had strong Gales and Cloudy weather. Wind North-East +by East, North, and South-West; course South 85 1/2 degrees West; +distance 88 miles; latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes South; longitude 319 +degrees 5 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[March 1771.]</p> + +<p>Friday, March 1st. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Found the Bitts which secures +the foot of the Bowsprit, loose; this obliged us to put before the wind +until they were secured in the best manner our situation would admit; +this done, we hauld our wind again to the Westward under the Courses and +close Reef'd Topsails. Wind South-West to South by West; course South 86 +degrees 45 minutes West; distance 71 miles; latitude 29 degrees 41 +minutes South; longitude 320 degrees 26 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 2nd. First part fresh Gales and Cloudy; remainder little wind, +with some few showers of rain; a Sea from the South-West. Wind Southerly; +course South 60 degrees West; distance 80 miles; latitude 30 degrees 21 +minutes South; longitude 321 degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 3rd. First part little wind; remainder Gentle gales and clear +weather, and the Sea pretty smooth. Wind North-East; course South 58 +degrees 15 minutes West; distance 71 miles; latitude 31 degrees 1 minute +South; longitude 323 degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 4th. In the P.M. had a moderate breeze, which continued until 5 +o'clock in the A.M., when it fell calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up +at South-West. In the Evening, and most part of the Night, the weather +was dark and cloudy, with much Lightning to the Westward. Variation 25 +degrees 35 minutes West. Winds North-East to South-West; course South 67 +degrees 45 minutes West; distance 87 miles; latitude 31 degrees 54 +minutes South; longitude 324 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[Off Coast of Natal.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 5th. Fresh Gales from the South-South-West, with squally, rainy +weather, with which we stood to the Westward. In the evening some people +thought they saw the appearance of land to the Northward; but this +appear'd so improbable that I, who was not on deck at this time, was not +acquainted with it until dark, when I order'd them to sound, but found no +ground with 80 fathoms, upon which we concluded that no land was near. +But daylight in the Morning proved this to be a mistake by shewing us the +land at the distance of about 2 Leagues off. We had now the wind at +South-East, blowing fresh right upon the land. When we made the land we +were standing to the Westward; but, thinking the other the best tack to +get off on, we wore, and hauld off to the Eastward, and by Noon had got +an Offing of about 4 Leagues, the land at this time extending from +North-East by North to West-South-West. This part of the Coast of Africa +which we fell in with lies in about the Latitude of 32 degrees 0 minutes +South, and Longitude 331 degrees 29 minutes West, and near to what is +called in the Charts Point Nattall.* (* Natal.) It was a steep, craggy +point, very much broke, and looked as if the high, craggy rocks were +Islands. To the North-East of this point the land in General appear'd to +rise, sloping from the Sea to a Moderate height; the Shore, alternately +Rocks and Sands. About 2 Leagues to the North-East of the Point appear'd +to be the mouth of a River, which probably may be that of St. Johns. At +this time the weather was very hazey, so that we had but a very imperfect +view of the land, which did not appear to great advantage. Wind +South-South-West to South-East; course per Log North 31 degrees West; +distance 32 miles; latitude 31 degrees 5 minutes South per Observation, +31 degrees 7 minutes per Reckoning; longitude 331 degrees 19 minutes per +Observation, 324 degrees 56 minutes per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 6th. Moderate Gales, with hazey, rainy weather. Stood to the +Eastward all the day, having the land in sight, which at 4 p.m. extended +from North-East by North to South-West by West, distant 5 Leagues. At 6 +in the Morning we could only see it at West distant 7 or 8 Leagues. At +Noon found the Ship by Observation 90 Miles to the Southward of account. +Thus far the current has carried us to the South since the last +observation, which was only 2 days ago; but it is plain, from the +position of the Coast, that we have been carried full as far to the West +also, notwithstanding we have been standing all the time to the +East-North-East* (* The ship was now in the Agulhas Current.) Wind +Southerly; course South 54 degrees East; distance 37 miles; latitude 32 +degrees 4 minutes South; 330 degrees 44 minutes per Observation, 323 +degrees 36 minutes per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 7th. Cloudy, hazey weather; winds varying between the +South-West by South and South-East by South; a light breeze at 1 p.m. +Tack'd, and stood to the Westward, land at North, distant about 8 +Leagues. At 6 saw it extending from North by West to West by North, +distant 5 or 6 Leagues; at 8 tack'd, and stood to the Eastward till 12; +then again to the Westward, standing 4 hours on one tack, and 4 on the +other. At Noon very cloudy; had no observation; saw the land extending +from North by West to West by North. Wind Southerly; course South 156 +degrees 5 minutes West; distance 72 miles; latitude 32 degrees 54 minutes +South; longitude 331 degrees 56 minutes West per Observation, 323 degrees +54 per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Friday, 8th. In the P.M. stood to the Westward, with the wind at South by +West until 4 o'clock; then again to the Eastward, having the land in +sight, extending from North-North-East to West by North, distant 8 +Leagues. At 12 the wind veer'd to the Eastward, and before Noon blow'd a +fresh breeze, with which we steer'd South-West. At 7, the land extending +from North-North-West to East-North-East, distant 10 or 12 Leagues, found +the Variation by the Amplitude to be 28 degrees 30 minutes West, and by +an Azimuth 28 degrees 8 minutes West. At Noon Latitude observ'd 34 +degrees 18 minutes, which is 93 miles to the Southward of that given by +the Log, or dead reckoning since the last observation. Wind Easterly; +course South 39 1/2 degrees West; distance 109 miles; latitude 34 degrees +18 minutes South; longitude 333 degrees 19 minutes West per Observation, +324 degrees 23 minutes per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 9th. A steady, fresh Gale, and settled weather. At 4 in the +P.M. had high land in sight, bearing North-East by North. At Noon had +little wind and clear weather; the observed Latitude 46 miles to the +Southward of the Log, which is conformable to what has hapned the 4 +preceeding days; and by Observation made of the Sun and Moon this morning +found that the Ship had gain'd 7 degrees 4 minutes West of the Log since +the last observation, 13 days ago. Wind Ditto; course South 65 degrees +West; distance 210 miles; latitude 35 degrees 44 minutes South; longitude +337 degrees 6 minutes West per Observation, 326 degrees 53 minutes per +Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 10th. In the P.M. had a light breeze at North-East until 4 +o'clock, when it fell calm, and continued so until 11, at which time a +breeze sprung up at West-North-West, with which we stood to the +Northward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 22 degrees 46 +minutes; at Noon the observ'd Latitude was 14 Miles to the Northward of +the Log, which shews that the current must have shifted. Wind North-East +Westerly; course North 17 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 55 miles; +latitude 34 degrees 52 minutes South; longitude 337 degrees 25 minutes +West per Observation, 327 degrees 12 minutes per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Monday, 11th. First part light Airs at West; the remainder had a fresh +gale at South-East, with which we steer'd West and West-North-West, in +order to make the Land, which was seen from the Deck at 10 A.M. At Noon +it extended from North-East to North-West, distant 5 Leagues; the middle +appear'd high and mountainous, and the two Extremes low. Took several +Observations of the Sun and Moon, which gave the Longitude, reduced to +Noon, as per Column. Wind Ditto South-East; course North 85 degrees West; +distance 79 miles; latitude 34 degrees 45 minutes South; longitude 338 +degrees 48 minutes West per Observation, 328 degrees 35 minutes per +Reckoning.</p> + +<p>[Off Cape Agulhas.]</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 12th. In the P.M. had the wind at South-East and East, with +which we steer'd along shore West and West-South-West. At 6 Cape +Laguillas* (* L'Agulhas.) bore West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, the wind +being then at South, we tack'd and stood off, being about 2 Leagues from +the Cape, which bore about West-North-West. In this Situation had 33 +fathoms water; the Wind continued between South-West and South all night, +in times very Squally, with rain. At 2 a.m. tacked to the Westward until +near 8, when we again stood off Cape Laguillas, North-West, distance 2 or +3 Leagues. At 9 the weather clear'd up, and the wind fix'd at South by +West. We tack'd, and stood to the Westward. At Noon Cape Laguillas bore +North-East by North, distant 4 Leagues. The land of this Cape is very low +and sandy next the Sea; inland it is of a moderate height. Latitude 34 +degrees 50 minutes South, Longitude 339 degrees 23 minutes West, or 20 +degrees 37 minutes East, deduced from Yesterday's Observations. Wind +East-South-East Southerly; course South 69 degrees 30 minutes West; +distance 37 miles; Latitude 34 degrees 58 minutes South; longitude 339 +degrees 30 minutes per Observation, 329 degrees 17 minutes per Reckoning.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 13th. In the P.M., having the wind at South, we steer'd along +shore West by South 1/2 South until 3 o'clock, when, finding this course +carried us off from the land, we steer'd West by North; at 6 o'clock Cape +Laguillas, or the high land over it, bore East by North 12 Leagues +distance, and the westermost land in sight North-West 1/2 West. We +continued a West by North course, with the wind at South-East until day +light in the Morning, when we haul'd in North-West and North-West by +North; at 8 the Cape of Good Hope North-West by North, and at 10 we were +abreast of it, and distance off about 1 League or little more. We passed +close without a rock, on which the Sea broke very high; it lies about a +League right out to Sea from the Cape. After passing the Cape we kept +along shore at the distance of about 1 League off, having a fresh Gale at +South-East; at noon the Cape bore South-East, distance 4 Leagues. +Latitude observed 34 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude in, by our +reckoning, corrected by the last observation, 341 degrees 7 minutes West, +or 18 degrees 53 minutes East from Greenwich, by which the Cape lies in +34 degrees 25 minutes South Latitude, and 19 degrees 1 minute East +Longitude from Greenwich, which nearly agrees with the observations made +at the Cape Town by Messrs. Mason and Dixon in 1761; a proof that our +observations have been well made, and that as such they may always be +depended upon to a surprizing degree of accuracey. If we had had no such +guide we should have found an error of 10 degrees 13 minutes of +Longitude, or perhaps more to the East, such an effect the current must +have had upon the ship.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 14th. Winds at South-East, a fresh Gale, but as we approached +the Lyons Tail or West point, Table Bay, we had flurries of wind from all +Points of the Compass; this was occasioned by the high land, for clear of +it the wind was still at South-East, and bbow'd so strong out of the Bay +that we could not work the Ship in; we were therefore obliged to Anchor a +good way without all the Ships at Anchor in the Road, in the whole 16 +Sail, viz., 8 Dutch, 3 Danes, 4 French, a Frigate, and 3 Store Ships, and +one English East Indiamen, who saluted us with 11 Guns; we returned 9. +The Gale continued, which obliged us to lay fast all the morning.</p> + +<p>Friday, 15th. Strong Gales at South-East all the Afternoon and most part +of the Night, though in the Evening it fell a little moderate, which gave +the Indiaman's Boat an opportunity to come on board us, with a Complement +of a Basket of Fruit, etc,; she was the Admiral Pocock, Captain Riddell, +homeward bound from Bombay. In the morning we got under sail, and stood +into the Road, having variable light airs mostly from the Sea. A Dutch +boat from the Shore came on board, in which were the Master Attendant and +some other Gentlemen; the former directed us to a proper birth, where +about 10 o'clock we anchored in 7 fathoms water, a Ouzey bottom; the Lyon +Tail, or West point of the Bay, bore West-North-West, and the Castle +South-West, distance 1 1/2 miles. I now sent a Petty Officer on shore to +know if they would return our Salute, but before he return'd we Saluted, +which was immediately return'd with the same number of Guns; after this I +waited myself upon the Governour, who was pleased to tell me that I +should have everything I wanted that the place afforded. My first care +was to provide a proper place ashore for the reception of the Sick, for +which purpose I order'd the Surgeon to look out for a House where they +could be lodged and dieted. This he soon found, and agreed with the +people of the house for 2 shillings a day per man; which I found was the +customary Price and method of proceeding. I afterwards gave the Surgeon +an order to superintend the whole.</p> + +<p>[Remarks on Dysentery.]</p> + +<p>Few remarks have hapned since we left Java Head that can be of much use +to the Navigator, or any other Person, into whose hand this Journal may +fall; such, however, as have occur'd I shall now insert. After our +leaving Java head we were 11 days before we got the General South-East +Trade wind, in which time we did not advance above 5 degrees to the South +and 3 degrees to the West, having all the time Variable light Airs of +Wind, interrupted by frequent Calms, the weather all the time hot and +sultry, and the Air unwholesome, occasioned most probably by the Vast +Vapours brought into these Latitudes by the Easterly Trade wind and +Westerly Monsoons, both of which blow at this time of the Year in this +Sea. The Easterly winds prevail as far as 12 or 10 degrees South, and the +Westerly winds as far as 6 or 8 degrees; between them the winds are +Variable, and I believe always more or less unwholesome, but to us it was +remarkable from the Fatal Consequences that attended it, for whatever +might be the cause of First bringing on the Flux among our people, this +unwholesome Air had a Great share in it, and increased it to that degree +that a Man was no sooner taken with it than he look'd upon himself as +Dead. Such was the Despondency that reigned among the Sick at this time, +nor could it be by any Means prevented, when every Man saw that Medicine, +however skillfully Administered, had not the least effect. I shall +mention what Effect only the immaginary approach of this disorder had +upon one man. He had long tended upon the Sick, and injoyed a tolerable +good State of Health; one morning, coming upon Deck, he found himself a +little griped, and immediately began to stamp with his feet, and exclaim, +"I have got the Gripes, I have got the Gripes; I shall die, I shall die!" +In this manner he continued until he threw himself into a fit, and was +carried off the Deck, in a manner, Dead; however he soon recover'd, and +did very well.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner got into the South-East Trade wind than we felt its +happy Effect, tho' we lost several men after, but they were such as were +brought so low and weak that there were hardly a possibility of there +recovery; and yet some of them linger'd out in a State of Suspence a +month after, who, in all Probability, would not have lived 24 Hours +before this Change hapned. Those that were not so far gone remained in +the same state for some time, and at last began to recover; some few, +however, were seized with the disorder after we got into the Trade wind, +but they had it but slightly, and soon got over it. It is worth +remarking, that of all those who had it in its last stage only one man +lived, who is now in a fair way of recovering; and I think Mr. Banks was +the only one that was cured at the first Attack'd that had it to a great +degree, or indeed at all, before we got into the South-East Trade, for it +was before that time that his Cure was happily effected.</p> + +<p>It is to be wished, for the good of all Seamen, and mankind in general, +that some preventative was found out against this disease, and put in +practice in Climates where it is common, for it is impossible to Victual +and water a Ship in those Climates but what some one article or another, +according to different Peoples opinions, must have been the means of +bringing on the Flux. We were inclinable to lay it to the water we took +in at Princes Island, and the Turtle we got their, on which we lived +several days; but there seems to be no reason for this when we consider +that all the Ships from Batavia this Year suffer'd by the same disorder +as much as we have done, and many of them arrived at this place in a far +worse State; and yet not one of the Ships took any water in at Princes +Island. The same may be said of the Harcourt Indiaman, Captain Paul, who +sail'd from Batavia soon after our arrival, directly for the Coast of +Sumatra; we afterwards heard that she, in a very short time, lost by +Sickness above 20 men; indeed, this seem to have been a year of General +Sickness over most parts of India, the Ships from Bengal and Madrass +bring Melancholly Accounts of the Havock made there by the united force +of Sickness and famine.</p> + +<p>Some few days after we left Java we saw, for 3 or 4 evenings succeeding +one another, boobies fly about the ship. Now, as these birds are known to +roost every night on land they seem'd to indicate that some Island was in +our neighbourhood; probably it might be the Island Selam, which Island I +find differently laid down in different Charts, both in Name and +Situation.</p> + +<p>The variation of the Compass off the West Coast of Java is about 3 +degrees West, which Variation continues, without any sencible difference +in the Common Track of Ships, to the Longitude of 288 degrees West, +Latitude 22 degrees 0 minutes South. After this it begins to increase +apace, in so much that in the Longitude of 295 degrees, Latitude 23 +degrees, the Variation was 10 degrees 20 minutes West; in 7 degrees more +of Longitude and one of Latitude it increased 2 degrees; in the same +space farther to the West it increased 5 degrees; in the Latitude of 28 +degrees and Longitude 314 degrees it was 24 degrees 20 minutes; in the +Latitude 29 degrees and Longitude 317 degrees it was 26 degrees 10 +minutes, and continued to be much the same for the space of 10 degrees +farther to the West; but in the Latitude of 34 degrees, Longitude 333 +degrees we observed it twice to be 28 1/4 degrees West; but this was the +greatest Variation we observed, for in the Latitude of 35 1/2 degrees, +Longitude 337 degrees, it was 24 degrees, and continued decreasing, so +that of Cape Laguillas it was 22 degrees 30 minutes and in Table Bay it +was 20 degrees 30 minutes West.</p> + +<p>From what I have observed of the Current it doth not appear that they are +at all considerable until you draw near the Meridian of Madagascar, for +after we had made 52 degrees of Longitude from Java head we found, by +observation, our Error in Longitude was only 2 degrees, and it was the +same when we had made only 19 degrees. This Error might be owing partly +to a Current setting to the Westward, or, what I thought most likely, +that we did not make sufficient allowance for the set of the Sea before +when we run, and, lastly, the assum'd Longitude of Java head might be +wrong. If any Error lays there it Arises from the imperfection of the +Charts I made use of in reducing the Longitude from Batavia to the above +mentioned Head, for it cannot be doubted but the Longitude of Batavia is +well Determined. After we had passed the Longitude of 307 degrees we +began to find the Effects of the Westerly Currents, for in 3 days our +Error in Longitude was 1 degree 5 minutes; its Velocity kept increasing +as we got to the Westward, in so much that for 5 days successively, after +we had made the land, we were drove to the South-West or South-West by +West by the Currents not less than 20 Leagues a day; and this continued +until we were within 60 or 70 Leagues of the Cape, where we found the +Current to set sometimes one way and sometimes another, but mostly to the +Westward.</p> + +<p>After the Boobies above mentioned left us we saw no more birds till we +got nearly abreast of Madagascar, where, in the Latitude of 27 3/4 +degrees, we saw an Albatross. After that time we saw more of these birds +every day, and in greater numbers, together with several other sorts; one +sort about as big as a Duck, of a very Dark brown Colour, with a +yellowish bill. The number of these birds increased upon us as we +approached the Shore. As soon as we got into Soundings we saw Gannets, +which we continued to see as long as we were on the Bank, which stretches +off Laguillas 40 Leagues, and Extends along shore to the Eastward from +Cape False, according to some charts, 160 Leagues; the Extent of this +Bank is not well known, however, it is useful in directing Shipping when +to haul in to make the land.</p> + +<p>[At Anchor. Table Bay.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, 16th. Variable light Airs all this day. Moor'd the Ship and +Struck Yards and Topmast, and in the morning got all the Sick (28) ashore +to Quarters provided for them, and got off fresh meat and Greens for the +People on board.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 17th. In the A.M. sail'd for England the Admiral Pocock, Captain +Riddle, by whom I sent Letters to the Admiralty and Royal Society. About +noon came on a hard, dry Gale from the South-East.</p> + +<p>Monday, 18th. In the P.M. anchored in the offing an English Ship, which +proved to be the Houghton Indiaman from Bengal. In the A.M. it fell +moderate, and we began to water the Ship.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 19th. Variable Gentle breezes. All this day employ'd repairing +Sails, Rigging, Watering, etc.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 20th. In the P.M. Sail'd the Houghton Indiaman, who saluted us +with 11 Guns, which Complement we returned; this Ship, during her stay in +India, lost by sickness between 30 and 40 men, and had at this time a +good many down with the Scurvey. Other Ships suffer'd in the same +proportion. Thus we find that Ships which have been little more than 12 +months from England have suffer'd as much or more by Sickness than we +have done, who have been out near 3 Times as long. Yet their sufferings +will hardly, if att all, be mentioned or known in England; when, on the +other hand, those of the Endeavour, because the Voyage is uncommon, will +very probable be mentioned in every News Paper, and, what is not +unlikely, with many Additional hardships we never Experienced; for such +are the disposition of men in general in these Voyages that they are +seldom content with the Hardships and Dangers which will naturally occur, +but they must add others which hardly ever had existence but in their +imaginations by magnifying the most Trifling accidents and circumstances +to the greatest Hardships and unsurmountable dangers without the imediate +interposition of Providence, as if the whole merit of the Voyage +consisted in the Dangers and Hardships they underwent, or that real ones +did not hapen often enough to give the mind sufficient anxiety. Thus +Posterity are taught to look upon these Voyages as hazardous to the +highest degree.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 21st. Fine Pleasant Weather. Employ'd getting on board water, +overhauling the rigging, and repairing Sails. Sail'd for Batavia a Dutch +Ship.</p> + +<p>Friday, 22nd, Saturday, 23rd, Sunday, 24th, Monday, 25th, Tuesday, 26th. +Mostly Fine pleasant weather. On the 23rd compleated our water, after +which I gave as many of the People leave to go on shore to refresh +themselves as could be spared at one time.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 27th. Winds variable and clear. Pleasant weather. Sailed for +Holland 4 Sail Dutch Ships.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 28th, Friday, 29th. Ditto weather. Employ'd fixing new Topmast +and Backstays, repairing Sails, etc.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 30th. In the P.M. anchor'd here the Duke of Gloucester, English +East India Ship from China. In the Evening a prodigious hard gale of wind +came on at South-East, which continued till about 3 o'clock in the +Morning. During the Gales the Table Mountains and Adjacent Hills were +cap'd with Extraordinary while Clouds; the remainder of the Day light +Airs and pleasant weather.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 31st. Clear pleasant weather all this day. In the Morning we got +on board a whole Ox, which we cut up and salted. I had eat ashore some of +as good and Fat Beef as ever I eat in my life, and was told that I might +have as good to salt; but in this I was very much disappointed. The one I +got was thin and Lean, yet well taisted; it weighed 408 pounds.</p> + +<p>[April 1771.]</p> + +<p>Monday, April 1st. In the P.M. I observed a dark, dence haze like a Fog +bank in the South-East Horizon, and which clouds began to gather over the +Table Mountain; certain signs of an approaching gale from the same +Quarter, which about 4 o'clock began to blow with great voialance, and +continued more or less so the Remainder of these 24 Hours, the Table +Mountain cap'd with White Clouds all the time. The weather dry and clear.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 2nd. First part fresh Gales at South-East, the remainder little +wind and calms. In the P.M. sail'd for England the Duke of Gloucester +Indiaman, who Saluted us at his departure. In the A.M. anchored here 2 +Dutch Ships from Batavia, and a third at Anchor under Penguin Island in +distress. Put on shore some Sick People.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3rd. Fine, pleasant weather. Some people on shore on Liberty +to refresh; the rest Employ'd repairing Sails and overhauling the +Rigging.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. Ditto Weather. Employ'd Painting the Ship and paying her +sides.</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. Var'ble light winds. Sail'd for Holland 3 Dutch Ships. +Employ'd as above, and getting on board Provisions, etc.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th. Gentle breezes, with some rain in the Night.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 7th. Gentle breezes, and fine, pleasant weather; a Signal for +some Ships being in the offing.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Gentle Breezes from the Westward. In the Night Anchor'd here +the Europa, an English East Indiaman from Bengal, and in the Morning she +saluted us with 11 Guns, which Complement we return'd.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. Little wind at South-West, with Foggy, hazey weather. +Employ'd making ready for Sea.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th. Gentle breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. +Took on board 11 of our people from Sick Quarters.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 11th. Ditto weather. Employ'd getting on board various Articles +of Provisions from the Shore.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. Wind at South-West, fair weather. Set up the Topmast +rigging, and bent the Sails.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. Fresh breezes at South-West, and Cloudy, hazey weather, +in the night Anchor'd here a Dutch Ship from Holland; she sail'd about 3 +months ago in company with 2 more. The news brought by this Ship is that +a War is dayley expected between England and Spain; Signals out for 4 or +5 Sail more being in the Offing, one of which is said to be a ship from +England; took leave of the Gouvernour, intending to Sail to-morrow.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 14th. Wind Westerly, gentle breezes. In the P.M. got all the Sick +on board, many of whom are yet in a very bad state of health; 3 died +here, but this loss was made up by the opportunity we had of compleating +our full complement. In the morning unmoor'd and got ready for Sailing.</p> + +<p>Monday, 15th. None of the Ships in the Offing are yet arrived. Desirous +as we must be of hearing news from England, I detemmin'd not to wait the +arrival of these Ships, but took the advantage of a breeze of wind from +the West-South-West; weigh'd and stood out of the Bay, saluted with 13 +Guns, which Complement was return'd both by the Castle and Dutch +Commodore. The Europa Saluted us as we passed her, which we return'd. +This Ship was to have sail'd with or before us, but not liking the +opportunity she lay fast. At 5 in the Evening anchor'd under Penguin or +Robin Island in 10 fathoms water, the Island extending from +West-North-West to South-South-West, distant 1 1/2 or 2 miles.</p> + +<p>In the Morning saw a Ship standing into Table Bay, under English Colours, +which we took to be an Indiaman; at Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 49 +minutes South; Cape Town South 20 degrees East, distant 7 miles. As we +could not Sail in the Morning for want of wind, I sent a Boat to the +Island for a few Trifling Articles we had forgot to take in at the Cape, +but the people on shore would not permit her to land, so that she +return'd as she went, and I gave myself no further Trouble at it. Mr. +Banks, who was in the Boat, was of opinion that it was owing to a mistake +made respecting the rank of the Officer commanding the Boat; be this as +it may, it seems probable that the Dutch do not admit of Strangers +landing upon this Island least they should carry off some of those people +which, for certain crimes, they Banish here for Life, as we were told was +done by a Danish Ship a few years ago. But they might have a better +reason for refusing our Boat to land, for it is not improbable but what +there might be some English Seamen upon this Island whom they had sent +from the Cape while we lay there, well knowing that if they came in my +way I should take them on board; and this, I am told, is frequently done +when any of His Majesty's Ships are in the Bay, for it is well known that +the Dutch East India Ships are mostly mann'd by Foreigners.</p> + +<p>[Remarks on Cape of Good Hope.]</p> + +<p>The Cape of Good Hope hath been so often discribed by Authors, and is so +well known to Europeans, that any discription I can give of it may appear +unnecessary. However, I cannot help observing that most Authors, +particularly the Author of Mr. Byron's voyage, have heightened the +picture to a very great degree above what it will bear; so that a +Stranger is at once struck with surprise and disappointment, for no +Country we have seen this voyage affords so barren a prospect as this, +and not only so in appearance, but in reality.</p> + +<p>The land over the Cape which constitutes the Peninsula form'd by Table +Bay on the North, and False Bay on the South, consists of high barren +Mountains; behind these to the East, or what may be called the Isthmus, +is a vast extensive plane, not one thousand part of which either is or +can be cultivated. The Soil consists mostly of a light kind of Sea sand, +producing hardly anything but heath; every inch of Ground that will bear +Cultivation is taken up in Small Plantations, consisting of Vineyards, +Orchards, Kitchen Gardens, etc. Hardly any 2 lay together, but are +dispers'd from one another at some Distance. If we may judge from +circumstances, the Interior Parts of this Country is not more fertile; +that is, the fertile land bears a very small proportion to the whole. We +were told that they have settlements 28 days' journey inland, which is +computed at 900 English Miles, and thus far they bring Provisions to the +Cape by land. It is also said that the Dutch Farmers are so dispers'd +about the country that some have no neighbours within 4 or 5 days' +Journeys of them. Admitting these to be facts, and it will at once appear +that the Country in General cannot be very fertile, for it would be +absurd to suppose that they would raise provisions at such an immence +distance, where the trouble and expence of bringing them to Market must +increase, in proportion, could it be done nearer. The Dutch assign +another reason for being obliged to extend their Scattered Settlements so +far in land; which is, they never disturb the Original native, but always +leave them in peaceable possession of whatever lands they may have +appropriated to their own use, which in some places is pretty Extensive, +and that probably none of the worst, by which good Policy the new +Settlers very seldom if ever meet with any Disturbance from the Natives; +on the contrary, many of them become their Servants, and mix among them, +and are useful members to Society.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the many disadvantages this Country labours under, such +is the industry, economy, and good management of the Dutch that not only +the necessary, but all the Luxuries, of Life are raised here in as great +abundance, and are sold as cheap, if not cheaper, then in any part of +Europe, some few Articles excepted. Naval Stores, however, do not want +for price any more here than they do at Batavia; these are only sold by +the company, who have a certain fix'd exorbitant Price, from which they +never deviate.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the Cape Town are in General well bred and Extreamly +Civil and Polite to all Strangers; indeed, it is their Interest so to do, +for the whole Town may be considered as one great Inn fitted up for the +reception of all Comers and goers. Upon the whole, there is perhaps not a +place in the known World that can Equal this in Affording refreshments of +all kinds to Shipping. The Bay is Capacious, pretty safe, and Commodious; +it lies open to the North-West winds, which winds, we are told, very +seldom blow very Strong,* (* In the winter months these winds are very +strong, and make the anchorage in Table Bay anything but safe.) but +sometimes sends in a Great Sea, for which reason Ships moor North-East +and South-West, and in such a manner as to have an Open Hawse with +North-West winds. The South-East winds blow frequently with great +Violence; but as this is right out of the Bay it is attended with no +danger. Near the Town is a wharfe built of wood, run out a proper +Distance into the Sea for the Conveniency of landing and Shipping off +goods. To this wharfe water is convey'd in pipes and by means of Cocks. +Several Boats may fill water at one and the same time. The Company keeps +several large Boats or Hoys to carry goods, provisions, water, etc., to +and from Shipping, as well Strangers as their own. Fuel is one of the +Scarcest articles they have, and is brought a long way out of the +Country, and Consists of Roots of Trees, Shrubs, etc. Except a few +English Oaks which they have planted, this Country is wholly destitute of +wood, except at too great a distance to be brought to the Cape.* (* Since +Cook's day large plantations have been made in the vicinity of Capetown.) +In the Article Timber, Boards, etc., they are chiefly supply'd from +Batavia.</p> + +<p>3 of the winter months, viz., from the middle of May to the middle of +August, the Dutch do not allow any of their Ships to lay in Table Bay, +but oblige them to go into False Bay, where there is a very safe +Harbour,* (* Simon's Bay, now the naval station, where there is a +dockyard.) and every other Conveniency both for their own Shipping and +Strangers, and where every produce of the Country can be had as cheap as +at the Cape Town. The Dutch, I am told, never Deviate from this custom of +sending their ships to False Bay at this Season of the Year, +notwithstanding there had not a Gale of wind hapned for many years that +would have put them in the least Danger in Table Bay.</p> + +<p>Table Bay is defended by a Square Fort, situated on the East side of the +Town, close to the Sea beach, together with several other out works and +Batterys along the Shore of the Bay on each side of the Town. They are so +situated as to be cannonaded by Shipping, and are in a manner defenceless +against a superior land force. The Garrison at present consists of 800 +regulars, besides Militia of the Country, which comprehend every man able +to bear Arms. They can, by means of Signals, alarm the whole Country in a +very short time, and then every man is immediately to repair to the Cape +Town. The French at Mauritius are supply'd with large Quantitys of +Provisions from the Cape, viz., Salted Beef, Biscuit, Flour, and wine. +While we lay in the Bay 2 Store Ships belonging to the King, of the +Burthen of 50 or 60 Gun Ships, and a Snow, sail'd for that Island Loaded +with Provisions, besides a large (King's) Frigate we left in the Bay +taking in her Cargo. The Provisions contracted for this Year by the +French were Salt Beef, 500,000 pounds; Flour, 400,000 pounds; Biscuit, +400,000 pounds; and Wine, 1,200 Leagers.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="ch11"></a> + +<h2>CHAPTER 11. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ENGLAND.</h2> + +<p>[April 1771.]</p> + +<p>TUESDAY, 16th. At 2 o'clock in the P.M. saw a large Ship behind the +Island, under French Colours, standing into Table Bay; at 3 weigh'd with +a Light breeze at South-East, and put to Sea; at 4 departed this Life Mr. +Robert Molineux Master, a young man of good parts, but had unfortunately +given himself up to Extravagancy and intemperance, which brought on +disorders that put a Period to his Life. At 6 we had the Table Mountain +and the Penguin Island in one bearing South-South-East, distant from the +latter about 4 or 5 Leagues; had it calm most part of the night. In the +morning a light breeze sprung up Southerly, with which we steer'd +North-West; at noon we were by Observation in Latitude 33 degrees 30 +minutes South. The Table Mountain bore South 54 degrees East, distant 14 +Leagues. N.B. The Table Mountain lies directly over the Cape Town, from +which last I take my departure; it lies in the Latitude of 33 degrees 56 +minutes South, and Longitude 341 degrees 37 minutes West from Greenwich.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 17th. Fresh breezes and fair weather, with a swell from the +South-West. Wind Southerly; course North 50 degrees West; distance 118 +miles; latitude 32 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 344 degrees 8 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 18th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. Swell as before. Wind +Ditto; course North-West; distance 85 miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 +minutes South, longitude 345 degrees 19 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 19th. Little wind and Sometimes calm. Swell from the Southward. +Wind South-East to North-West; course North 50 degrees West; distance 16 +miles; latitude 31 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 345 degrees 33 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 20th. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. Wind Westerly; latitude +29 degrees 40 minutes South, longitude 346 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 21st. A moderate trade wind and Pleasant weather. Wind Southerly; +course North 54 degrees West; distance 100 miles; latitude 28 degrees 43 +minutes South, longitude 347 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 22nd. A Fresh Trade, and Pleasant weather. Exercised the People +at Small Arms. Observations for Longitude with the Sun and Moon agree +with the Log. Wind South-East; course North 50 degrees West; distance 118 +miles; latitude 27 degrees 27 minutes South, longitude 349 degrees 24 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 23rd. Gentle breezes, and Clear weather. Found the Variation in +the Evening, by the Amplitude, to be 17 degrees 40 minutes West, and by +Azimuth in the Morning 18 degrees 37 minutes. Employ'd repairing Boats +and Sails. Exercis'd Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind South-East by South +to West-South-West; course North 46 degrees West; distance 98 miles; +latitude 26 degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 350 degrees 42 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 24th. Ditto weather. Found the Variation to be 17 degrees 30 +minutes West. Employ'd as yesterday. Wind West, West-North-West; course +North 20 degrees West; distance 78 miles; latitude 25 degrees 6 minutes +South, longitude 351 degrees 16 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 25th. First part, moderate and Clear; Middle, Squally, with +Rain; Latter, fresh Gales and Cloudy. Employ'd as above. Wind North-West, +South-West; course North 20' West; distance 105 miles; latitude 23 +degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 351 degrees 52 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 26th. Fresh Gales, and a large Swell from the Southward. Wind +South-South-West, South-East by South; course North 50 degrees West; +distance 168 miles; latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes South, longitude 354 +degrees 12 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 27th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. Employ'd repairing Sails. Wind +South-East 1/2 South; course North 55 degrees West; distance 168 miles; +latitude 20 degrees 4 minutes South, longitude 356 degrees 40 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 28th. Ditto weather. Variation per Azimuth 14 degrees West. Wind +South-East; course North 56 degrees 30 minutes West; distance 152 miles; +latitude 18 degrees 41 minutes South, longitude 358 degrees 54 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 29th. Ditto Gales. Variation 13 degrees 53 minutes West. In the +A.M. crossed the line of our first Meridian, viz., that of Greenwich, +having now Circumnavigated the Globe in a West direction. Wind +South-East; course North 53 degrees West; distance 136 miles; latitude 17 +degrees 19 minutes South, longitude 0 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 30th. Fresh Gales and Pleasant weather. Exercised the people at +Great Guns and Small Arms. Wind South-East; course North 58 degrees West +South, distance 126 miles; latitude 16 degrees 11 minutes South, +longitude 2 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[May 1771. At St. Helena.]</p> + +<p>Wednesday, May 1st. Fresh Trade and Pleasant weather. At 6 A.M. saw the +Island of St. Helena bearing West, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon +Anchor'd in the Road, before James's Fort, in 24 fathoms water. Found +riding here His Majesty's Ship Portland and Swallow* (* This was not the +same Swallow that preceded Cook in circumnavigation. She had been broken +up.) Sloop, and 12 Sail of Indiaman. At our first seeing the Fleet in +this Road we took it for granted that it was a War; but in this we were +soon agreeably deceived. The Europa Indiaman Anchor'd here a little +before us; she sail'd from the Cape 2 days after us, and brings an +account the French Ship we saw standing into Table Bay was a French Man +of War, of 64 Guns, bound to India, and that there were 2 more on their +Passage. Wind South-East. At noon at Anchor in St. Helena Road.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 2nd. Clear, Pleasant weather. In the P.M. moor'd with the Kedge +Anchor, and in the A.M. received some few Officers' stores from the +Portland. Wind Ditto. At noon at Anchor in St. Helena Road.</p> + +<p>Friday, 3rd. Clear, Pleasant weather. Employ'd repairing Sails, +overhauling the Rigging, etc. Wind South-East. At noon at Anchor in St. +Helena Road.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 4th. Little wind and pleasant weather. At 6 A.M. the Portland +made the Signal to unmoor, and at Noon to Weigh, at which time the Ships +began to get under Sail. Wind Ditto. At noon at Anchor in St. Helena +Road.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 5th. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. At 1 P.M. weigh'd, and +stood out of the Road in company with the Portland and 12 Sail of +Indiamen. At 6 o'clock James Fort, St. Helena, bore East 1/2 South, +distant 3 Leagues. In the A.M. found the Variation to be 13 degrees 10 +minutes West. Wind East by South; course North 50 degrees 30 minutes +West; distance 71 miles; latitude 15 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 6 +degrees 46 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 6th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy weather. Sailing in Company with +the Fleet. Wind East-South-East; course North 47 1/2 degrees West; +distance 122 miles; latitude 13 degrees 42 minutes South, longitude 8 +degrees 27 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 7th. Ditto Weather. In the A.M. found the Variation to be 12 +degrees 5 minutes West. Exercised the people at Great Guns and Small +Arms. Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees West; distance 137 miles; +latitude 12 degrees 5 minutes South, longitude 10 degrees 9 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 8th. A Steady breeze and Pleasant Weather. All the Fleet in +Company. Wind South-East; course North 46 degrees 45 minutes West; +distance 126 miles; latitude 10 degrees 39 minutes South, longitude 11 +degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 9th. Ditto Weather. In the Evening found the Variation to be 11 +degrees 42 minutes West. Wind South-East by South; course North-West; +distance 118 miles; latitude 9 degrees 16 minutes, longitude 13 degrees +17 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 10th. At 6 in the A.M. saw the Island of Ascention bearing +North-North-West, distant 7 Leagues. Made the Signal to speak with the +Portland, and soon after Captain Elliott himself came on board, to whom I +deliver'd a Letter for the Admiralty, and a Box containing the Ship's +Common Log Books, and some of the Officers' Journals, etc. I did this +because it seem'd probable that the Portland would get home before us, as +we sail much heavier than any of the Fleet.* (* The Portland and the +India fleet got home three days before the Endeavour.) At Noon the Island +of Ascention bore East by South, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. By our +Observations it lies in the Latitude of 7 degrees 54 minutes South, and +Longitude of 14 degrees 18 minutes West. A North-West by North course by +Compass, or North-West a little Westerly by the Globe from St. Helena, +will bring you directly to this Island. Wind Ditto; course North-West; +distance 120 miles; latitude 7 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 14 +degrees 32 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 11th. A steady Trade wind and pleasant Weather. At 1/2 past 6 +p.m. the Island of Ascention bore South-East 3/4 East, distant 11 or 12 +Leagues. Sailing in Company with the Fleet. Wind Ditto; course North 42 +degrees West, distance 117 miles; latitude 6 degrees 24 minutes South, +longitude 15 degrees 51 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 12th. First and Middle parts a Steady breeze, and fair the +Latter; light Squalls, with rain. Wind South-East by South to South-East +by East; course North 31 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 123 miles; +latitude 4 degrees 38 minutes South, longitude 16 degrees 54 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 13th. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather; hott and Sultry. Sailing +in Company with the fleet. Variation 10 degrees West. Wind South-East by +South; course North 32 1/2 degrees West; distance 119 miles; latitude 2 +degrees 58 minutes South, longitude 17 degrees 58 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 14th. Ditto Weather. Wind South-East by South; course North 32 +1/2 degrees West; distance 109 miles; latitude 1 degree 26 minutes South, +longitude 18 degrees 57 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 15th. Little wind and hot, Sultry weather. In the P.M. observed, +meerly for the sake of Observing, an Eclipse of the Sun. In the A.M. +brought another Foretopsail to the Yard, the old one being quite wore +out. Wind East-South-East; course North 32 1/2 degrees West; distance 85 +miles; latitude 0 degrees 14 minutes South, longitude 19 degrees 43 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 16th. Light breezes and fair weather. Variation 9 degrees 30 +minutes West. Wind South-East by South; course North 31 degrees West; +distance 71 miles; latitude 0 degrees 47 minutes North, longitude 20 +degrees 20 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 17th. Ditto Weather. Sailing in Company with the Fleet. Wind +Ditto; course North 31 degrees West; distance 61 miles; latitude 1 degree +39 minutes North, longitude 20 degrees 50 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 18th. First part ditto weather; remainder Squally, with Thunder +and Rain. The observ'd Latitude is 14 Miles to the Northward of the Log. +Sailing in Company with the Fleet. Wind South-South-East to East; course +North 20 degrees West; distance 86 miles; latitude 3 degrees 0 minutes +North, longitude 21 degrees 22 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 19th. Cloudy, unsettled weather, with some rain. In the A.M. +found the Variation by the Amplitude and Azimuth 7 degrees 40 minutes +West. Hoisted a Boat out, and sent on board the Houghton for the Surgeon, +Mr. Carret, in order to look at Mr. Hicks, who is so far gone in a +Consumption that his Life is dispair'd of. Observation at Noon 16 Miles +to the Northward of the Log. Wind South-East to South by East; course +North 20 degrees West; distance 98 miles; latitude 4 degrees 32 minutes +North, longitude 21 degrees 58 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[With India Fleet. Homeward Bound.]</p> + +<p>Monday, 20th. Dark, cloudy, unsettled weather, with rain. At Noon the +Observ'd Latitude was 27 Miles to the Northward of the Log. Sailing in +Company with the Fleet. Wind Variable between the South and East; course +North 19 degrees West; distance 70 miles; latitude 5 degrees 38 minutes +North, longitude 22 degrees 21 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 21st. Little wind, with some heavy showers of rain. At 2 p.m. +had some Observations of the Sun and Moon, which gave the Longitude 24 +degrees 50 minutes West, 2 degrees 28 minutes West of Account. In the +morning it was Calm, and the Ships, being near one another, several of +them had their Boats out to tow. We Observed the Portland to carry out a +long Warp. I, being desirous to see the Machine they made use of, we +hoisted out a Boat, and Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself went on board +her, where we was show'd it. it was made of Canvas, in every respect like +an Umbrello; its Circumference, if extended to a Circle, was 24 feet, +tho' this was a Small one of the Sort; yet Captain Elliot told me that it +would hold as much as 150 Men could haul. I was so well satisfied of the +Utility of this Machine that I would not have delayed a moment in having +one Made had not our Forge been render'd Useless by the loss of some of +its parts. Winds Variable; course North 31 degrees West; distance 35 +miles; latitude 6 degrees 8 minutes North, longitude 25 degrees 8 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 22nd. Variable, unsettled weather, with rain. About 9 o'clock +in the A.M. the Portland shorten'd Sail for the Sternmost Ships to come +up. As we imagin'd, this gave us an Opportunity to get a Head of the +Fleet, after which we made such sail as was necessary to keep in Company. +Wind Variable; course North-North-West 3/4 West; distance 58 miles; +latitude 6 degrees 58 minutes North, longitude 25 degrees 38 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 23rd. Little wind from the Eastward, with frequent showers of +Rain, and hazey weather. The Fleet astern of us all this day. At Noon we +Shortned Sail for them to come up, the headmost being about 2 Leagues +off. Wind East to North-East; course North 25 degrees West; distance 56 +miles; latitude 7 degrees 49 minutes North, longitude 26 degrees 2 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 24th. First part Moderate breezes, and hazey, with rain; the +latter, fresh breezes and fair. At 3 p.m., finding the Fleet to come fast +up with us, we made all the Sail we could. Soon after it became hazey, +and we lost sight of them until near 6, when it clear'd up a little, and +we saw 3 Sail abreast of us, bearing East about 2 or 3 Miles' Distance; +by this we saw that they not only kept a better wind, but out sail'd us +upon a wind. It became again hazey, and we lost Sight of them, and +notwithstanding we keept close upon a wind all night, with as much Sail +out as we could bear, there was not one Sail in sight in the Morning. +Wind North-East and North-North-East; course North 54 degrees West; +distance 92 miles; latitude 8 degrees 42 minutes North, 27 degrees 18 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 25th. Moderate Trade Wind and Cloudy weather. Wind +North-North-East; course North 50 degrees 15 minutes West; distance 92 +miles; latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes North, longitude 28 degrees 30 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 26th. A Steady Trade and Cloudy Weather. About 1 o'Clock P.M. +departed this Life Lieutenant Hicks, and in the Evening his body was +committed to the Sea with the usual ceremonys. He died of a Consumption +which he was not free from when we sail'd from England, so that it may be +truly said that he hath been dying ever since, tho' he held out tolerable +well until we got to Batavia. Wind North-East by North; course North 46 +degrees West; distance 92 miles; latitude 20 degrees 47 minutes North, +longitude 29 degrees 35 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 27th. A Steady, fresh Trade and Cloudy weather. This day I gave +Mr. Charles Clerk an order to act as Lieutenant in the room of Mr. Hicks, +deceased, he being a Young Man extremely well qualified for that Station. +Wind North-East; course North 39 degrees West; distance 103 miles; +latitude 12 degrees 7 minutes North, longitude 30 degrees 40 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 28th. A steady Trade and fair weather. Wind North Easterly; +course North 40 degrees West; distance 108 miles; latitude 13 degrees 30 +minutes North, longitude 31 degrees 51 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales and Hazey. Wind Ditto; course North 31 1/2 +degrees West; distance 128 miles; latitude 15 degrees 19 minutes North, +longitude 33 degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 30th. Ditto Gales and Cloudy. Fix'd a new maintopmast Backstay, +the old one having broke several times. Wind Ditto; course North 31 +degrees 15 minutes West; distance 124 miles; latitude 17 degrees 5 +minutes North, longitude 34 degrees 9 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 31st. Strong Gales and Cloudy in the Evening. Got down Top +Gallant Yards, and in the Morning found the Variation 5 degrees 9 minutes +West. Wind North-East and North-East by East; course North 39 1/2 degrees +West; distance 136 miles; latitude 18 degrees 50 minutes North, longitude +35 degrees 40 minutes West.</p> + +<p>[June 1771.]</p> + +<p>Saturday, June 1st. Fresh Trade, and Cloudy weather. In the A.M. got up +Top Gallant Yards. Wind North-East; course North 35 degrees West; +distance 100 miles; latitude 20 degrees 12 minutes North, longitude 36 +degrees 41 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 2nd. Moderate Gales and Clear weather. Variation 5 degrees 4 +minutes West. Wind North-East to North-North-East; course North 49 +degrees West; distance 104 miles; latitude 21 degrees 20 minutes North, +longitude 38 degrees 5 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 3rd. A Gentle Trade Wind, and Pleasant weather. Wind North-East; +course North 44 degrees West; distance 85 miles; latitude 22 degrees 21 +minutes North, longitude 39 degrees 9 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 4th. Ditto weather. In the A.M. found the Variation to be 4 +degrees 30 minutes West. Wind North-East; course North 34 degrees West; +distance 91 miles; latitude 23 degrees 40 North, longitude 40 degrees 4 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 5th. Gentle breezes, with some Showers of Small Rain. Wind +Ditto; course North 52 degrees West; distance 83 miles; latitude 24 +degrees 31 minutes North, longitude 41 degrees 11 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 6th. Ditto weather. In the A.M. found the Variation by the mean +of the Amplitude and Azimuth to be 5 degrees 34 minutes West, and by +Observation of the Sun and Moon found the Ship in Longitude 43 degrees 18 +minutes West of Greenwich, 2 degrees 51 minutes West of the Log since the +last Observations; this I judge to be owing to a Westerly Current. Wind +East-North-East to East; course North 3/4 West; distance 90 miles; +latitude 26 degrees 1 minute North, longitude, per Observation Sun and +Moon, 43 degrees 18 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 7th. Moderate breezes, and Cloudy. A.M., Variation per mean of 20 +Azimuths 5 degrees 20 minutes West. Wind East-North-East; course North 15 +degrees West; distance 84 miles; latitude 27 degrees 22 minutes North, +longitude 43 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 8th. Moderate breezes and Pleasant weather. In the A.M. found +the Variation to be 5 degrees 24 minutes West. By the Observation of the +Sun and Moon the Longitude of the Ship at Noon was 43 degrees 42 minutes +West. Wind Easterly; course North; distance 88 miles; latitude 28 degrees +50 minutes North, longitude 43 degrees 42 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 9th. Clear, pleasant weather and a Smooth Sea. In the A.M. found +the Variation to be 7 degrees 33 minutes West. Some Tropick birds flying +about the Ship; we have seen of these birds every day since we passed the +Tropick. Wind Ditto; course North by West 1/2 West; distance 81 miles; +latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes North, longitude 44 degrees 9 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 10th. Little wind and Clear weather. Exercised the people at +Small Arms. Wind Ditto; course North 30 degrees West; distance 71 miles; +latitude 31 degrees 12 minutes North, longitude 44 degrees 50 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 11th. Ditto weather. A Smooth Sea. Wind North-East by East; +course North 18 minutes West; distance 67 miles; latitude 32 degrees 16 +North, longitude 45 degrees 14 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 12th. Light breezes and clear weather. Variation by the +Amplitude in the Evening 7 degrees 0 minutes West, and by Azimuth in the +Morning 6 degrees 55 minutes West. Exercised Great Guns and Small Arms. +Wind East by South; course North-North-East; distance 48 miles; latitude +33 degrees 8 minutes North, longitude 44 degrees 53 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 13th. Little wind and pleasant weather. Found the Variation by +the Amplitude in the Evening to be 8 degrees 23 minutes; in the Morning 8 +degrees 15 minutes, and by Azimuth soon after 8 degrees 14 minutes West. +Wind Ditto; Course North by East 1/2 East; distance 77 miles; latitude 34 +degrees 14 minutes North, longitude 44 degrees 25 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 14th. A Gentle Gale, and pleasant weather. In the A.M. saw 2 +Turtle laying a Sleep upon the water. Wind East-South-East; course North +18 degrees East; distance 99 miles; latitude 35 degrees 48 minutes North, +longitude 43 degrees 48 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 15th. Ditto Weather at Daylight. In the Morning saw a Sloop to +Windward standing to the Eastward, which we run out of sight by Noon. +Wind South-East; course North-East 1/2 East; distance 119 miles; latitude +37 degrees 2 minutes North, longitude 41 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 16th. A Steady breeze and pleasant weather, with some rain in the +Night. At daylight in the Morning saw a Sail a head, which we came up and +spoke with a little after 10 o'clock. She proved a Portoguee Ship from +Rio de Janeiro, bound to Lisbon. Wind Ditto; course North-East 1/2 East; +distance 119 miles; latitude 38 degrees 18 minutes North, longitude 40 +degrees 38 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 17th. Steady, Gentle Gales and pleasant weather. Variation in the +Evening 9 degrees West. Wind South-South-East; course North 68 degrees +East; distance 104 miles; latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes North, longitude +38 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 18th. Little wind, and clear weather. At 2 p.m. found the Ship +to be by Observation 1 degree 22 minutes to the Westward of Account +carried on from the last Observation; in the Evening the Variation was 14 +degrees 15 minutes West, and in the Morning 14 degrees 24 minutes. Wind +South; course North 66 degrees East; distance 82 miles; latitude 39 +degrees 52 minutes North, longitude 36 degrees 59 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 19th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. At 2 p.m. found by observation +the same Error in our Longitude as Yesterday, which I have now corrected. +The Longitude of this day is that resulting from Observation. At 10 A.M. +saw a Sail a head, which we soon came up with, and sent a Boat on board. +She was a Schooner from Rhoad Island out upon the Whale fishery. From her +we learnt that all was peace in Europe, and that the America Disputes +were made up; to confirm this the Master said that the Coat on his back +was made in old England. Soon after leaving this Vessel we spoke another +from Boston, and saw a third, all out on the same account. Wind South to +South-West; course North 73 degrees East; distance 127 miles; latitude 40 +degrees 9 minutes North, longitude 36 degrees 44 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 20th. Fresh Gales and Cloudy, with some Showers of rain. At day +light in the Morning saw a Sail ahead standing to the East. A Swell from +the North-North-West. Wind South-West, North-West, North; course North 80 +1/2 degrees East; distance 121 miles; latitude 40 degrees 29 minutes +North, longitude 33 degrees 10 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 21st. Fresh Gales and Cloudy. In the P.M. saw a Sail astern +standing to the South-East, and at 11 o'Clock A.M. saw from the Mast head +13 Sail of Stout Ships, which we took to be the East India Fleet. Wind +Northerly; course East by North; distance 128 miles; latitude 40 degrees +33 minutes North, longitude 30 degrees 20 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 22nd. Fresh Gales, with Squalls, attended with rain. In the +Evening had 14 Sail in sight, 13 upon our lee Quarter, and a Snow upon +our lee Bow. In the Night split both Topgallant Sails so much that they +were obliged to be unbent to repair. In the Morning the Carpenter +reported the Maintopmast to be Sprung in the Cap, which we supposed +hapned in the P.M., when both the Weather Backstays broke. Our Rigging +and Sails are now so bad that something or another is giving way every +day. At Noon had 13 Sail in sight, which we are well assured are the +India Fleet, and are all now upon our Weather Quarter. Wind North to +North-East; course North 81 degrees East; distance 114 miles; latitude 41 +degrees 11 minutes, longitude 27 degrees 52 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 23rd. Fresh Gales and Squally, attended with Showers of rain. In +the Evening all the Fleet were to Windward of us, and in the Morning not +one was to be seen. Wind North-East by North to East-North-East; course +South 69 1/2 degrees East; distance 80 miles; latitude 40 degrees 43 +minutes North, longitude 26 degrees 13 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Monday, 24th. First part, moderate breezes; remainder, Squally. At Noon +Tack'd. Wind North-East to East-South-East; course South 82 degrees East; +distance 64 miles; latitude 40 degrees 34 minutes North, longitude 24 +degrees 49 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 25th. First part and remainder a fresh breeze and Cloudy. Wind +North-East to North-North-East; course South 85 degrees East; distance 58 +miles; latitude 40 degrees 39 minutes North, longitude 23 degrees 33 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 26th. First part, breezes; remainder, little wind. Wind North +by East; course North 86 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 72 miles; +latitude 40 degrees 43 minutes North, longitude 21 degrees 58 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 27th. Moderate breezes and Cloudy weather. Wind Westerly; +course North 54 minutes East; distance 54 miles; latitude 41 degrees 14 +minutes North, longitude 20 degrees 59 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 28th. Fresh breezes, with Showers of Rain. Wind West to +North-North-West; course North 38 degrees East; distance 123 miles; +latitude 42 degrees 55 minutes North, longitude 19 degrees 18 minutes +West.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 29th. First part, little wind; remainder, Fresh Gales and +Squally, with Showers of Rain. Wind South-West to West and North-East; +course North 59 degrees 15 minutes East; distance 86 miles; latitude 43 +degrees 39 minutes North, longitude 17 degrees 36 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 30th. Gentle breezes and fair weather. Variation in the Evening +18 degrees 30 minutes West, and in the Morning 19 degrees 30 minutes. +Wind Northerly; course North 50 degrees 45 minutes East; distance 87 +miles; latitude 44 degrees 34 minutes North, longitude 16 degrees 2 +minutes West.</p> + +<p>[July 1771.]</p> + +<p>Monday, July 1st. Ditto weather. In the Night passed 2 Sail Standing to +the South-West. Wind Ditto; course North 77 degrees 15 minutes East; +distance 90 miles; latitude 44 degrees 54 minutes North, longitude 13 +degrees 59 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 2nd. Little wind and Cloudy, hazey weather. One Sail in Sight to +the North-East. Wind Ditto; course East; distance 42 miles; latitude 45 +degrees 54 minutes North, longitude 13 degrees 2 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 3rd. Little wind and pleasant weather. At 9 A.M. found the +Ship by Observation of the Sun and Moon 1 degree 14 minutes East of +Account. Six Sail in Sight. Wind North and North-West; course North 56 +degrees East; distance 54 miles; latitude 45 degrees 24 minutes North, +longitude 11 degrees 59 minutes West per Log, 10 degrees 45 minutes per +Observation.</p> + +<p>Thursday, 4th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. Variation per Azimuth +and Amplitude in the Evening 21 degrees 25 1/2 West, and in the Morning +20 degrees 10 minutes West. Wind West, North, and North-East; course +South 85 degrees East; distance 55 miles; latitude 45 degrees 29 minutes +North, longitude 10 degrees 44 minutes West per Log, 9 degrees 27 minutes +per Observation.</p> + +<p>Friday, 5th. Little wind and Cloudy. At 1 P.M. spoke a Dutch Galliot +bound to Riga. At 5 Tack't, and stood to the Westward till 8 a.m., then +to the Eastward. Wind North-East; course North 50 degrees East; distance +8 miles; latitude 45 degrees 34 minutes North, longitude 10 degrees 32 +minutes West per Log, 9 degrees 18 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 6th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy. At 1 p.m. sent a Boat on board +a Brig belonging to Boston, last from Gibraltar, and bound to Falmouth. +Wind North-North-East; course North 72 degrees 30 minutes East; distance +37 miles; latitude 44 degrees 45 minutes North, longitude 9 degrees 42 +minutes West per Log, 8 degrees 28 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Sunday, 7th. Gentle breezes and Clear weather. In the Evening found the +Variation by the Amplitude to be 22 degrees 30 minutes West. At 9 A.M. +Spoke a Brig from Liverpool bound to Porto, and some time after another +from London, bound to the Granades. She had been 3 days from Scilly, and +reckoned herself in the Longitude of about 10 minutes West, which was +about 40 minutes to the Westward of what we found ourselves to-day by +Observation. We learnt from this Vessel that no account had been received +in England from us, and that Wagers were held that we were lost. It seems +highly improbable that the Letters sent by the Dutch Ships from Batavia +should not come to hand, as it is now 5 months since these Ships sail'd +from the Cape of Good Hope. Wind North-North-East and North-West; course +North 50 degrees East; distance 49 miles; latitude 46 degrees 16 minutes +North, longitude 9 degrees 39 minutes West per Account, 9 degrees 29 +minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Monday, 8th. Little wind and hazey weather. Swell from the Northward. +Wind North-North-West to South-West; course North 46 degrees 45 minutes +East; distance 43 miles; latitude 46 degrees 45 minutes North, longitude +8 degrees 54 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, 9th. Fore and middle parts a Gentle breeze, and thick, Foggy +weather; remainder, a fresh Breeze and Cloudy. A swell from the +North-North-West all day. Wind South Westerly; course North 21 degrees +East; distance 100 miles; latitude 48 degrees 19 minutes North, longitude +8 degrees 1 minute West per Account, 8 degrees 7 minutes per Observation.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, 10th. Pleasant breezes and Clear weather. At 6 o'Clock in the +Morning sounded, and Struck ground in 60 fathoms Shells and Stones, by +which I judged we were the length of Scilly Isles. At Noon we saw land +from the Mast Head, bearing North, which we judged to be about the Land's +End. Soundings 54 fathoms, Coarse, Grey Sand. Wind Westerly; course North +44 degrees East; distance 97 miles; latitude 49 degrees 29 minutes North, +longitude 6 degrees 18 minutes West.</p> + +<p>Friday, 11th. Steady fresh breezes and clear weather. At 2 in the P.M. +saw the Lizardland, and at 6 o'clock the lighthouse bore North-West, +distant 5 Leagues, we being at this time, by my reckoning, in the +Longitude of 5 degrees 30 minutes West; soon after 2 Ships under their +Topsails between us and the land, which we took for Men of War. At 7 +o'clock in the morning the Start Point bore North-West by North, distant +3 Leagues, and at Noon we reckon'd ourselves about 5 Leagues short of +Portland. This Forenoon a small cutter built vessel came under our Stern, +and inquir'd after the India Fleet, which, they said, they were cruizing +for and had not seen.</p> + +<p>Friday, 12th. Winds at South-West, a fresh Gale, with which we run +briskly up Channel. At 1/2 past 3 p.m. passed the Bill of Portland, and +at 7 Peverell Point; at 6 a.m. passed Beachy head at the distance of 4 or +5 miles; at 10 Dungeness, at the distance of 2 miles, and at Noon we were +abreast of Dover.</p> + +<p>Saturday, 13th. At 3 o'clock in the P.M. anchor'd in the Downs, and soon +after I landed in order to repair to London.</p> + +<p>(Signed) JAMs COOK.</p> + +<h4>POSTCRIPT.</h4> + +<p>I HAVE made mention in Book 1st,* (* The Journal was written in thin +books, afterwards bound together in England. The page given here is of +this published copy.) page 76, of 2 Spanish Ships touching at Georges +Island some months before our Arrival there. Upon our arrival at Batavia +we were inform'd that 2 French Ships, commanded by the Sieur de +Bougainville, had put in there about 2 years before us in their way home +from the South Seas. We were told many Circumstances relating to the 2 +Ships, all tending to prove beyond a doubt that they were the same 2 as +were at George's Island as above mentioned, which we then conjectur'd to +be Spaniards, being lead into that mistake by the Spanish Iron, etc., we +saw among the Natives, and by Toobouratomita pitching upon the Colours of +that Nation for those they wore, in which he might very easily be +mistaken; but as to the Iron, etc., there might be no mistake, for we +were told that either one or both of these Ships had put into the River +de la Plata, where they disposed of all their European goods brought for +that purpose, and purchased others to Trade with the Islanders in the +South Sea; and I think we were told that they also touched upon the +Spanish Main in the South Sea. As a proof of their having been trading +with the Spaniards, Bougainville's Ship had on board a great Quantity of +Spanish Dollars at the time she arrived at and left Batavia, some days +after our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. I was told by some French +Officers, lately come from the Island Mauritius, that Orette, the Native +of George's Island which Bougainville brought away with him, was now at +the Maritius, and that they were going to fit out a Ship to carry him to +his Native country, where they intend to make a Settlement; 100 Troops +for that purpose were to go out in the same Ship. This account is +confirmed by a French Gentleman we have on board, who has very lately +been at the Maritius.* (* This intention was never carried out.) As I +have no reason to doubt the truth of this account, it leads me to +consider the rout that this Ship must take, which I think can be no other +than that of Tasmans as far as the Coast of New Zeland; and if she fall +in with that Coast to the Southward of Cape Farewell will very probably +put into Admiralty Bay, or Queen Charlotte's sound, as Tasman's track +will in some measure point out to her one or the other of these places. I +think it is not likely she will venture through the Strait, even suppose +she discovers it, but will follow Tasman's Track to the North Cape, where +no doubt she will leave him, and follow the direction of the Coast to the +South-East, as it will not be out of her way; by which means she will +fall in with the most fertile part of that Country, and as they cannot +know anything of the Endeavour's voyage, they will not hesitate a moment +to declare themselves the first discoverers. Indeed, I cannot see how +they can think otherwise, unless the Natives inform them to the contrary, +which they may not choose to understand. The French Officers before spoke +of would not allow that George's Island was first discover'd by the +Dolphin, though no doubt Bougainville did; but it was not for the +Interest of his Country, nor perhaps his own, to own it. Thus this +Island, though of little value, may prove a Bone of Contention between +the 2 Nations, especially if the French make a Settlement upon it, and +the Dolphin's voyage, and this of ours, published by Authority to fix the +prior right of discovery beyond disputes.</p> + +<p>Now I am upon the Subject of discoveries, I hope it will not be taken +amiss if I give it as my opinion that the most feasable method of making +further discoveries in the South Sea is to enter it by the way of New +Zeland, first touching and refreshing at the Cape of Good Hope; from +thence proceed to the Southward of New Holland for Queen Charlotte's +Sound, where again refresh Wood and water, taking care to be ready to +leave that place by the latter end of September, or beginning of October +at farthest, when you would have the whole Summer before you, and after +getting through the Strait, might, with the prevailing Westerly Winds, +run to the Eastward in as high a Latitude as you please, and if you meet +with no lands would have time enough to get round Cape Horne before the +Summer was too far spent; but if after meeting with no Continent, and you +had other objects in view, then haul to the Northward, and after visiting +some of the Islands already discovered, after which proceed with the +trade wind back to the Westward in search of those before mentioned--thus +the discoveries in the South Sea would be compleat.* (* This programme +Cook carried out in his second voyage in the most complete manner +possible.)</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<a name="index"></a> +<h2>INDEX.</h2> + +<p>Admiralty, Letters to, 357, 379.<br> +<p>Agulhas:<br> +Cape, 375.<br> +Current, 373.</p> + +<p>Albatrosses, 46, 47, 128.</p> + +<p>Anchors, Loss of, 276, 327.</p> + +<p>Anchor-stocks eaten by worms, 86.</p> + +<p>Arru Islands, 336.</p> + +<p>Ascension Island, 387.</p> + +<p>AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST OF:<br> +Animals, 318.<br> +Appearance of, 252, 265, 267, 272, 294, 317.<br> +Bedford, Cape, 292.<br> +Birds, 318.<br> +Booby Island, 314.<br> +Botany Bay, 242 to 248.<br> +Bustard Bay, 258, 260.<br> +Canoes, 243, 321.<br> +Capricorn, Cape, 260.<br> +Cleveland Bay, 270.<br> +Cook's Passage, 301.<br> +Cornwall, Cape, 313.<br> +Damage to ship, 280, 281, 284.<br> +Danger Point, 253.<br> +Danger, Ships in, 253, 254, 262, 263, 267, 274, 278, 279, 303, 328.<br> +Dangerous navigation through the reefs, 306 to 310.<br> + Description of, 317.<br> +Dromedary, Mount and Point, 239.<br> +Endeavour Reef, 274, 276.<br> +Endeavour River, 279.<br> + Sail from, 292.<br> + Description of, 293.<br> +Endeavour Strait, 313.<br> + Description of, 314.<br> +Exploration, Remarks on, 305.<br> +First attempts at landing, 242.<br> +Fish, 318.<br> +Flattery, Cape, 297.<br> +Fruits, 318.<br> +Glass houses, 254.<br> +Gloucester, Cape, 269.<br> +Grafton, Cape, 273.<br> +Grenville, Cape, 307.<br> +Hicks Point, 237.<br> +Hillsborough, Cape, 267.<br> +Historical notes, 325.<br> +Hope Islands, 277.<br> +Houses, 321.<br> +Howe, Cape, 238.<br> +Jackson Port, 249.<br> +Jervis Bay, 241.<br> +Kangaroo, 280, 281, 287, 291, 294.<br> +Language, 322.<br> +Lizard island, 298.<br> +Lookout Point, 298.<br> +Magnetic Island, 271.<br> +Moreton Bay, 254.<br> +Natives, 239, 242, 244, 245, 248, 272, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290, 311, 312,<br> +319, 320, 323.<br> +New South Wales, name bestowed, 312.<br> +Palmerston, Cape, 267.<br> +Pigeon House, 239.<br> +Possession Island, 311.<br> +Providential Channel, 304.<br> +Rays (fish), 247, 291, 295.<br> +Rockingham Bay, 272.<br> +Sandy Cape, 256.<br> +Ship aground, 274 to 276, 279.<br> +Ship beached for repair, 280.<br> +Sighted, 237.<br> +Smoky Cape, 251.<br> +Stephens Port, 250.<br> +Thirsty Sound, 264.<br> +Tides, Observations on, 267, 268, 312, 324.<br> +Timber, 318.<br> +Torres Straits, Doubts of existence of, 301, 302, 306, 314, 335.<br> +Townshend, Cape, 263.<br> +Tribulation, Cape, 274.<br> +Upstart, Cape, 270.<br> +Weapons, 320.<br> +Weymouth, Cape, 306.<br> +Whitsunday Passage, 269. +York, Cape, 310.</p> + +<p>Banks, Mr., 2, 19, 38, 61, 63, 65, 72, 75, 76, 79, 81, 82, 87, 88, 111, 114, 115, 128, 130, 140, 165, 167, 184, 186, 200, 217, 225, 242, 245, 247, 259, 285, 288, 298, 311, 329, 332, 362, 377, 382.</p> +<br> +<p>Batavia, 353 to 364:<br> +Description of, 363. +Sickly climate of, 359, 362, 364, 372.</p> + +<p>Boats, Preservation of, 74.</p> + +<p>Bolabola:<br> +Description of, 117.<br> +Passed, 113.</p> + +<p>Boobies, 257, 314, 336, 378.</p> + +<p>Boot-topping, 19.</p> + +<p>Bougainville, 314:<br> +His visit to Tahiti, 72, 76, 101, 314, 395.</p> + +<p>Bow island, 56.</p> + +<p>Buchan, Mr., Artist, Death of, 64.</p> + +<p>Canoes:<br> +Australian, 243, 321.<br> +New Zealand, 221, 222.<br> +Society Islands, 118.<br> +Tahiti, 97.<br> +Voyages in, 119, 121.</p> + +<p>Cape Colony, Remarks on, 382.</p> + +<p>Cape Pigeons. See Pintado Birds.</p> + +<p>Capetown, 376, 383.</p> + +<p>Celery, Wild, 141, 154, 166, 190.</p> + +<p>Chain Island, 58.</p> + +<p>Chart-making, Remarks on, 337.</p> + +<p>Clerke, Master's Mate, 76, 390.</p> + +<p>Cockles (Tridacna), 284, 295, 306.</p> + +<p>Cook, Captain:<br> +Character, xlv.<br> +Death of, xliii.<br> +Early life, xiii.<br> +Survey of Newfoundland, xv.<br> +First voyage, xxi.<br> +Second, xxix.<br> +Third, xxxvii.</p> + +<p>Cook, Mrs., xv., xliv.</p> + +<p>Damage to ship, 280, 281, 284, 353, 359.</p> + +<p>Danger, Ship in, 169, 192, 204, 253, 254, 262, 263, 267, 274, 278, 279, 303, 308, 328, 330.</p> + +<p>Dipping Needle, 13, 44.</p> + +<p>Dolphin, H.M.S., Voyages of, xvii.</p> + +<p>Downs, Return to, 394.</p> + +<p>Dutch:<br> +regulations for ships, 351.<br> +Home Fleet, 357.<br> +Dispute with, 362.</p> + +<p>Dysentery:<br> +Deaths from, 368, 369, 370, 371, 372.<br> +Remarks on, 377.</p> + +<p>Egg-birds, 53.</p> + +<p>Fleet, Indian, 386.</p> + +<p>Flogging, 20, 22, 64, 76, 77, 79, 107, 108, 155, 166, 167, 371.</p> + +<p>Fothering the ship, 276, 277.</p> + +<p>Fuegian natives, 37.</p> + +<p>Funchal, 6.</p> + +<p>Good Hope, Cape of, 375.</p> + +<p>Gore, Lieutenant, 76, 120, 198, 245, 282, 285, 341.</p> + +<p>Green, the Astronomer, 31, 35, 68, 76, 131, 150, 305, 316, 354, 368.</p> + +<p>Hicks, Lieutenant, 20, 69, 76, 85, 145, 160, 240, 244, 304, 349, 350, 354, 356, 388, 389.</p> + +<p>Horn, Cape, 41:<br> +Longitude of, 45.<br> +Passage round, 48.</p> + +<p>Huaheine:<br> +visited, 109.<br> +Description of, 110.</p> + +<p>Islands, List of, 229.</p> + +<p>Journal, Copy of, sent home, 356, 357.</p> + +<p>Kangaroos, 280, 281, 287, 291, 294, 318.</p> + +<p>King George's Island. See Tahiti.</p> + +<p>Krakatoa (Cracatoa), 349.</p> + +<p>Lagoon Island, 55.</p> + +<p>Language of New Zealand and Tahiti identical, 131, 225.</p> + +<p>Le Maire Strait, 34 to 39:<br> +Description of, 42.<br> +Directions for, 42.</p> + +<p>Lightning conductors, 354.</p> + +<p>Line, Crossing the, 13.</p> + +<p>Local attraction, 264.</p> + +<p>Lunars, Cook's remarks on, 316.</p> + +<p>Lunars, xxii.</p> + +<p>Magra, Midshipman, 258, 278.</p> + +<p>Molineux, Mr., Master, 67, 107, 285, 287, 290, 298, 300, 385.</p> + +<p>Monkhouse, Midshipman, 277, 369.</p> + +<p>Monkhouse, Surgeon, 59, 64, 109, 359.</p> + +<p>Mories or Temples, 83, 104, 118.</p> + +<p>Natal, Coast of, 373.</p> + +<p>Natives:<br> +See Tahiti.<br> +See East Coast of Australia.<br> +See New Zealand.</p> + +<p>New Guinea:<br> +Coast of, 330, 334.<br> +Land in, 333.<br> +Weapons, 333.</p> + +<p>New South Wales:<br> +See Australia, East Coast.<br> +Remarks on, 317.</p> + +<p>NEW ZEALAND:<br> +Account of, 214.<br> +Admiralty Bay, 213.<br> +Animals, 217.<br> +Attempt to seize a boy, 137.<br> +Banks Peninsula, 197.<br> +Brett, Cape, 163.<br> +Burial, 224.<br> +Camel, Mount, 171, 176, 177.<br> +Campbell, Cape, 194.<br> +Canoes, 221, 222.<br> +Cannibalism, 156, 183, 184, 221.<br> +Chart of, Accuracy of, 215.<br> +Clothing, 219.<br> +Colville, Cape, 158, 161.<br> +Cook's Strait, 181, 186, 193.<br> +Customs of mourning, 188.<br> +Description of, 214.<br> +Dusky Bay, 207.<br> +Egmont, Mount, 180.<br> +Farewell, Cape, 211.<br> +First landing in, 130.<br> +Food, 222.<br> +Hauraki Gulf, 160.<br> +Hawkes' Bay, 137.<br> +Hemp or flax, 217.<br> +Hippas, or Pahs, 147, 152, 153, 156, 164, 167, 169, 186, 192.<br> +Houses, 223.<br> +Iron sand, 156.<br> +Islands, Bay of, 165, 169.<br> +Jackson, Cape, 214.<br> +Kaipara Harbour, 177.<br> +Kairoura Mountain, 193, 196.<br> +Left, 213.<br> +Massacre or Murderers (Murtherers) Bay, 183, 214.<br> +Mercury Bay, 148, 155.<br> +Middle Island, Description of, 210.<br> +Musical Instruments, 224.<br> +Native, Name of, 189, 214.<br> +Natives, Conflicts with, 131, 135, 136, 146, 147, 148, 151, 163, 164, 165, 166, 182, 187, 221.<br> + Description of, 218.<br> + Fearlessness of, 139, 221.<br> + Notes on, 230.<br> + Three captured, 132.<br> + Traditions of, 191.<br> + Traffic with, 134, 137, 141, 143, 145, 149, 151, 159, 160, 182, 192, 195.<br> +North, Cape, 173.<br> +Palliser (Pallisser), Cape, 193, 195.<br> +Pattoo Pattoas, 154.<br> +Places recommended for settling, 218.<br> +Plenty, Bay of, 146.<br> +Portland Island, 134.<br> +Poverty Bay, 130.<br> +Produce of, 216.<br> +Queen Charlotte's Sound, 182, 191.<br> +Religion, 224.<br> +Ruapuke Island, 203.<br> +Runaway, Cape, 145.<br> +Saunders, Cape, 201.<br> +Sighted, 129.<br> +South Cape, 205.<br> +Stephens Island, 188, 212.<br> +Stewart Island, 205.<br> +Tegadoo Bay, 141.<br> +Thames, Frith of, 158, 161.<br> +Three Kings, 174.<br> +Timber, 159, 217.<br> +Tolaga Bay, 142.<br> +Tools, 223.<br> +Traps, 204.<br> +Turnagain, Cape, 130, 195.<br> +Weapons, 154.</p> + +<p>Ohetiroa, 120.</p> + +<p>Ohwarrhe Harbour, 110.</p> + +<p>Onrust, the Dutch dockyard, 354, 356.</p> + +<p>Otaha, 112:<br> +Excursion to, 116.<br> +Description of, 117.</p> + +<p>Otaheite. See Tahiti.</p> + +<p>Oree, King of Huaheine, 109, 110.</p> + +<p>Orton, Mr., 258.</p> + +<p>Osnaburg Island, 58.</p> + +<p>Oysters, 153, 156, 248, 260, 266, 318.</p> + +<p>Pacific:<br> +Exploration of, xv.<br> +Explorers of, xvi.</p> + +<p>Parkinson, Mr., 368.</p> + +<p>Paumotu Archipelago, 55 to 58.</p> + +<p>Pepys' Island, 33.</p> + +<p>Perry, Mr., Surgeon's Mate, 359.</p> + +<p>Pintado Birds, 122.</p> + +<p>Port Egmont Hens, 129, 200.</p> + +<p>Poverty Bay, Incidents at, 130.</p> + +<p>Princes Island, Sunda Strait, 366.</p> + +<p>Quiros, 213, 226, 301.</p> + +<p>Raiatea. See Ulietea.</p> + +<p>Rays (fish), 247, 291, 295.</p> + +<p>Repairs effected, 360.</p> + +<p>Rio Janeiro:<br> +Arrival at, 18.<br> +Viceroy of, 19 to 22.<br> +Description of, 24.</p> + +<p>Roggeween, 227.</p> + +<p>Rotte, 340.</p> + +<p>Rurutu. See Ohetiroa.</p> + +<p>St. Helena, 386.</p> + +<p>Savu, 341 to 347.</p> + +<p>Scurvy, xvi., xvii:<br> +Conquered, xxviii., xxx., xxxvi., xlvi.<br> +Prevention against, xxiv., 59.</p> + +<p>Seals, 128, 203, 217.</p> + +<p>Society Islands, Description of, 116.</p> + +<p>Solander, Dr., 65, 131, 166, 167, 184, 186, 242, 245, 288, 311, 332, 342.</p> + +<p>Sour krout, 59.</p> + +<p>Southern Continent, 51, 125, 226, 228.</p> + +<p>Stranding of ship, 169, 274 to 276, 279.</p> + +<p>Success Bay, 36, 42.</p> + +<p>Suicide of a Marine, 54.</p> + +<p>Sumatra Strait, 349, 366.</p> + +<p>Swallow, H.M.S.: +Safety of, 350. +Voyage of, xix.</p> + +<p>Table Bay, 376 to 381, 383, 384.</p> + +<p>Tahaa. See Otaha.</p> + +<p>TAHITI:<br> +Arreoys Society, 95.<br> +Arrival at, 59.<br> +Breadfruit, 84.<br> +Canoes, 97.<br> +Chastity, Want of, 96.<br> +Climate, 103.<br> +Cloth manufacture, 99.<br> +Clothing of natives, 93.<br> +Cooking, Method of, 79.<br> +Dead, Disposal of, 65, 81.<br> +Description of, 88.<br> +Desertion at, 80, 84,<br> +Dogs as food, 79.<br> +Emblems of peace, 64.<br> +Expedition round, 81.<br> +Fort erected at, 64, 68.<br> +Funeral ceremonies, 102.<br> +Government, 100.<br> +History, Notes on, 105.<br> +Houses, 96.<br> +Images, 83.<br> +Leave island, 87.<br> +Manners and Customs, 94.<br> +Mories (Morai) or temples, 83, 101.<br> +Music, 94.<br> +Natives of:<br> + Description of, 91.<br> + Rules for traffic with, 60.<br> +Oamo or Amo, Chief, 80, 83, 105, 106.<br> +Obariea, Queen, 67, 69, 70, 72, 79, 80, 83, 85, 86, 105.<br> +Owhaa, Chief, 60, 63, 66.<br> +Priests, 102.<br> +Produce of, 89.<br> +Religion, 101.<br> +Sexes, separation at meals, 91.<br> +Tattooing, 93.<br> +Thefts at, 62, 63, 68, 73, 75, 78, 82.<br> +Toobouratomita, Chief, 62, 65, 69, 71, 73, 77, 85.<br> +Tools, 98.<br> +Tootaha, Regent, 62, 67, 69, 70, 71, 74, 77, 85, 106.<br> +Traffic for provisions, 60, 87.<br> +Tupia, Priest. See Tupia.<br> +Weapons, 99.<br> +Wrestling, 71.</p> + +<p>Teneriff, Peak of, 8.</p> + +<p>Tenimber Islands, 336.</p> + +<p>Tern. See Eggbirds.</p> + +<p>Thrum Cap Island, 56.</p> + +<p>Tierra del Fuego, Expedition into, 38.</p> + +<p>Timor, 338.</p> + +<p>Tootaha, Regent of Tahiti. See Tahiti.</p> + +<p>Transit of:<br> +Mercury, 150.<br> +Venus, 76.</p> + +<p>Tropic birds, 53.</p> + +<p>Tupia:<br> +Priest of Tahiti, 102, 105, 109, 112, 131, 132, 136, 182, 187, 242, 286, 349, 354.<br> +Death of, 363.<br> +Islands known to, 229.<br> +Knowledge of, 121.<br> +Taken on board, 87.<br> +Usefulness of, 363.</p> + +<p>Turtle, 285, 287, 288, 290, 295, 301, 352.</p> + +<p>Two Groups Island, 57.</p> + +<p>Ulietea:<br> +Acting and dances at, 114.<br> +Description of, 116.<br> +Harbour, 111.<br> +Opoony, King of, 115.<br> +Rautoanui Harbour, 114.</p> + +<p>Variation, Remarks on, 104.</p> + +<p>Venereal Disease, 76.</p> + +<p>Walsche, Cape, 331.</p> + +<p>Warping, Machine for, 389.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-16"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-16.jpg"></p> +<h4>CHART OF NEW ZEALAND, EXPLORED IN 1769 AND 1770, BY LIEUTENANT J. COOK, COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR, ENGRAVED BY I. BAYLY.<br> +REPRODUCTION OF THE ORIGINAL PUBLISHED CHART.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + +<center> +<p><a name="cook-15"> +</a><img alt="" src="images/cook-15.jpg"></p> +<h4>PRINTERS' PLATE<br> +"REST, PRAY, SLEEP."<br> +Elliott Stock, 62, Paternoster Row.</h4> +</center> +<p> </p> + +<hr align="center" width="30%"> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Captain Cook's Journal During the +First Voyage Round the World, by James Cook + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAPTAIN COOK'S JOURNAL *** + +***** This file should be named 8106-h.htm or 8106-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/8/1/0/8106/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at + www.gutenberg.org/license. + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at 809 +North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email +contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the +Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For forty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> + + diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-01.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29a4e72 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-01.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-02.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a976a55 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-02.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-02to04.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-02to04.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34cf91d --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-02to04.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-03.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-03.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f3ccce --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-03.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-04.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-04.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ce8b90 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-04.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-05.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-05.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4357b53 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-05.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-06.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-06.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52b57a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-06.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-07.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-07.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d326d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-07.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-08.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-08.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c35a6e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-08.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-09.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-09.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..57a73c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-09.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-10.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-10.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2773c85 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-10.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-11.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-11.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..284c53e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-11.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-12a.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-12a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7471aad --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-12a.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-12b.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-12b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa3fe53 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-12b.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-13.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-13.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..71a5ce9 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-13.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-14.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-14.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a141d1e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-14.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-15.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-15.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a038de7 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-15.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/Cook-16.jpg b/8106-h/images/Cook-16.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d774d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/Cook-16.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-01.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29a4e72 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-01.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-02.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a976a55 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-02.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-02to04.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-02to04.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34cf91d --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-02to04.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-03.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-03.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f3ccce --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-03.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-04.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-04.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ce8b90 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-04.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-05.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-05.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4357b53 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-05.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-06.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-06.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..52b57a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-06.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-07.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-07.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d326d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-07.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-08.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-08.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c35a6e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-08.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-09.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-09.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..57a73c8 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-09.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-10.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-10.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2773c85 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-10.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-11.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-11.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..284c53e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-11.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-12a.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-12a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7471aad --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-12a.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-12b.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-12b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa3fe53 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-12b.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-13.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-13.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..71a5ce9 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-13.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-14.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-14.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a141d1e --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-14.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-15.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-15.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a038de7 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-15.jpg diff --git a/8106-h/images/cook-16.jpg b/8106-h/images/cook-16.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d774d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/8106-h/images/cook-16.jpg |
