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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G.K. Chesterton
+
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+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G.K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8092]
+[This file was first posted on June 13, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+by
+
+G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Preface
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission
+of the Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared.
+They amount to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary
+recording one day in twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--
+the only kind of diary the author has ever been able to keep.
+Even that diary he could only keep by keeping it in public,
+for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the topics they
+are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive. As the
+reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages,
+it probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post,
+a window blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the
+reader is looking at something that he has never seen: that is,
+never realised. He could not write an essay on such a post or
+wall: he does not know what the post or wall mean. He could
+not even write the synopsis of an essay; as "The Bed-Post; Its
+Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night Felt
+as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture," and so on.
+He could not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards
+window-blinds, even in the form of a summary. "The Window-Blind--
+Its Analogy to the Curtain and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?
+--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun, etc., etc." None of us
+think enough of these things on which the eye rests. But don't
+let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy? Let us
+exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that run
+across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be
+ocular athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or
+a coloured cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what
+follows; but anyone else may do it better, if anyone else will
+only try.
+
+
+Contents Chapter
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon's Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+I
+
+Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly
+in the front garden, because their villa was a model one.
+The front garden was about the same size as the dinner table;
+it consisted of four strips of gravel, a square of turf with some
+mysterious pieces of cork standing up in the middle and one flower
+bed with a row of red daisies. One morning while they were at play
+in these romantic grounds, a passing individual, probably the milkman,
+leaned over the railing and engaged them in philosophical conversation.
+The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter, were at least sharply
+interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who was, I need say,
+a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering them
+in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for.
+And Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness,
+explaining that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride
+across continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas
+in an afternoon dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from
+his breast pocket, waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner;
+and in an instant the model villa with its front garden was like a
+tiny doll's house at Paul's colossal feet. He went striding away
+with his head above the clouds to visit Niagara and the Himalayas.
+But when he came to the Himalayas, he found they were quite small
+and silly-looking, like the little cork rockery in the garden; and when
+he found Niagara it was no bigger than the tap turned on in the bathroom.
+He wandered round the world for several minutes trying to find
+something really large and finding everything small, till in sheer
+boredom he lay down on four or five prairies and fell asleep.
+Unfortunately his head was just outside the hut of an intellectual
+backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment with an axe in one hand
+and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the other. The man looked
+at the book and then at the giant, and then at the book again.
+And in the book it said, "It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe."
+So the backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and,
+working eight hours a day for about a week, cut the giant's head off;
+and there was an end of him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long
+wished to be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he
+immediately became one. When the transformation was over he found
+himself in the midst of an immense plain, covered with a tall green
+jungle and above which, at intervals, rose strange trees each with
+a head like the sun in symbolic pictures, with gigantic rays of
+silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward the middle of this prairie
+stood up a mountain of such romantic and impossible shape, yet of
+such stony height and dominance, that it looked like some incident
+of the end of the world. And far away on the faint horizon he
+could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more mystical,
+of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever. He
+set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has
+not come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced
+it is not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction.
+It is in fact the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating
+the pages that follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences
+upon European literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own
+preference in its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it
+by what little girls call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other
+great literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England
+by Mr. Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest
+by sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere.
+Let it be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight;
+and the two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school
+advises us to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without
+a frock coat. The school to which I belong suggests that we should
+stare steadily at the man until we see the man inside the frock coat.
+If we stare at him long enough he may even be moved to take off his coat
+to us; and that is a far greater compliment than his taking off his hat.
+In other words, we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely
+on the facts actually before us, force them to turn into adventures;
+force them to give up their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose.
+The purpose of the Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary
+things a man may see if he is active and strides from continent
+to continent like the giant in my tale. But the object of my school
+is to show how many extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man
+may see if he can spur himself to the single activity of seeing.
+For this purpose I have taken the laziest person of my acquaintance, that
+is myself; and made an idle diary of such odd things as I have fallen over
+by accident, in walking in a very limited area at a very indolent pace.
+If anyone says that these are very small affairs talked about in very
+big language, I can only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke.
+If anyone says that I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess
+with pride that it is so. I can imagine no more successful and productive
+form of manufacture than that of making mountains out of molehills.
+But I would add this not unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains;
+one has only to become a pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering,
+in getting to the top of everything and overlooking everything.
+Satan was the most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took
+Jesus to the top of an exceeding high mountain and showed
+him all the kingdoms of the earth. But the joy of Satan
+in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness, but a joy in
+beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like insects
+at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large;
+it is from the level that things look high; I am a child
+of the level and have no need of that celebrated Alpine guide.
+I will lift up my eyes to the hills, from whence cometh my help;
+but I will not lift up my carcass to the hills, unless it is
+absolutely necessary. Everything is in an attitude of mind;
+and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude.
+I will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle
+on me like flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you.
+The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only
+for want of wonder.
+
+
+II
+
+A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up
+a walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any
+brown paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she
+mistook the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper.
+She seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must
+be wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to do;
+indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental capacity.
+Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of toughness and
+endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only wanted to draw
+pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in the least;
+and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a question, not of
+tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing comparatively
+irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I wanted to draw
+she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently supposing
+that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper wrappers
+from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I
+not only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness
+in paper, just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods,
+or in beer, or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper
+represents the primal twilight of the first toil of creation,
+and with a bright-coloured chalk or two you can pick out points
+of fire in it, sparks of gold, and blood-red, and sea-green,
+like the first fierce stars that sprang out of divine darkness.
+All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman; and I put the brown
+paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and possibly other things.
+I suppose every one must have reflected how primeval and how poetical
+are the things that one carries in one's pocket; the pocket-knife,
+for instance, the type of all human tools, the infant of the sword.
+Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely about the things
+in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and the age
+of the great epics is past.
+
+. . . . .
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper,
+I went out on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal
+contours that express the best quality of England, because they
+are at the same time soft and strong. The smoothness of them
+has the same meaning as the smoothness of great cart-horses,
+or the smoothness of the beech-tree; it declares in the teeth
+of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty are merciful.
+As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake.
+The villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see,
+for centuries; yet the lifting of the whole land was like
+the lifting of one enormous wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going
+to sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim,
+and blind old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right,
+and saints in robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green,
+and all the sacred or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright
+colours on brown paper. They are much better worth drawing than Nature;
+also they are much easier to draw. When a cow came slouching
+by in the field next to me, a mere artist might have drawn it;
+but I always get wrong in the hind legs of quadrupeds. So I drew
+the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly walking before me
+in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and silver, and had
+seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the beasts. But
+though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the landscape,
+it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the best out
+of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about the
+old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills;
+but they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much
+less about Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They
+painted the white robes of their holy virgins with the blinding
+snow, at which they had stared all day. They blazoned the shields
+of their paladins with the purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets.
+The greenness of a thousand green leaves clustered into the live
+green figure of Robin Hood. The blueness of a score of forgotten
+skies became the blue robes of the Virgin. The inspiration went
+in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that a
+most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential.
+I cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the
+wise and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this,
+that white is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is
+a shining and affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as
+black. When, so to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses;
+when it grows white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three
+defiant verities of the best religious morality, of real Christianity,
+for example, is exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of
+religious morality is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence
+of vices or the avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and
+separate thing, like pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean
+not being cruel or sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a
+plain and positive thing like the sun, which one has either seen or
+not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means
+something flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in
+many colours; but He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost
+said so gaudily, as when He paints in white. In a sense our age
+has realised this fact, and expressed it in our sullen costume.
+For if it were really true that white was a blank and colourless
+thing, negative and non-committal, then white would be used instead
+of black and grey for the funeral dress of this pessimistic period.
+We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of spotless silver
+linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies. Which is
+not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town
+nearer than Chichester at which it was even remotely probable
+that there would be such a thing as an artist's colourman.
+And yet, without white, my absurd little pictures would be as
+pointless as the world would be if there were no good people in it.
+I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for expedients.
+Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and again,
+so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine a
+man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some
+salt water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on
+an immense warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made
+entirely out of white chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until
+it met the sky. I stooped and broke a piece off the rock I sat on;
+it did not mark so well as the shop chalks do; but it gave the
+effect. And I stood there in a trance of pleasure, realising that
+this Southern England is not only a grand peninsula, and a tradition
+and a civilisation; it is something even more admirable. It is a
+piece of chalk.
+
+
+III
+
+The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a
+loose memory. I will not merely say that this story is true:
+because, as you will soon see, it is all truth and no story.
+It has no explanation and no conclusion; it is, like most of the other
+things we encounter in life, a fragment of something else which
+would be intensely exciting if it were not too large to be seen.
+For the perplexity of life arises from there being too many
+interesting things in it for us to be interested properly in any
+of them; what we call its triviality is really the tag-ends
+of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like ten
+thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon.
+My experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate,
+not fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents
+(what there were of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere
+of the landscape, which were the whole horror of the thing.
+I remember them vividly, and they were as I shall now describe.
+
+. . . . .
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing
+outside the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London.
+And for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind
+or the emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice
+fell upon me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step
+out on the road and walk at least some part of the way to London.
+I do not know if other people are made like me in this matter;
+but to me it is always dreary weather, what may be called
+useless weather, that slings into life a sense of action and romance.
+On bright blue days I do not want anything to happen; the world
+is complete and beautiful, a thing for contemplation. I no more
+ask for adventures under that turquoise dome than I ask for
+adventures in church. But when the background of man's life is
+a grey background, then, in the name of man's sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail
+man refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in
+letters of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall
+happen, then the immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises
+up and decrees that something shall happen, if it be only the
+slaughter of a policeman. But this is a digressive way of stating
+what I have said already--that the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger
+for some change of plans, that the monotonous weather seemed to
+render unbearable the use of the monotonous train, and that I set
+out into the country lanes, out of the town of Oxford. It was,
+perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came upon me out of
+the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years afterwards
+I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir George
+Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless.
+The fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies;
+the tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds
+and as cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening
+was closing in. A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon,
+as if pale with reluctance to leave the world in the dark.
+And as it faded more and more the skies seemed to come closer and
+to threaten. The clouds which had been merely sullen became swollen;
+and then they loosened and let down the dark curtains of the rain.
+The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like blows from an enemy
+at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and bawling
+in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man,
+and in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met
+him I asked him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up
+the train for Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station
+(I cannot even remember the name of it) which stood well away
+from the road and looked as lonely as a hut on the Andes.
+I do not think I have ever seen such a type of time and sadness
+and scepticism and everything devilish as that station was:
+it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking
+wood of it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome
+liquid corruption of the wood itself; as if the solid station
+were eternally falling to pieces and pouring away in filth.
+It took me nearly ten minutes to find a man in the station.
+When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him if there was
+a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As far as I
+understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail
+of the tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain.
+It may have been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather
+slowly into the station. It was an unnaturally dark train;
+I could not see a light anywhere in the long black body of it;
+and I could not see any guard running beside it. I was reduced
+to walking up to the engine and calling out to the stoker to ask
+if the train was going to London. "Well--yes, sir," he said, with
+an unaccountable kind of reluctance. "It is going to London;
+but----" It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering,
+as we steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined
+with desolate poplars, until we slowed down and stopped,
+irrationally, in the middle of a field. I heard a heavy noise as
+of some one clambering off the train, and a dark, ragged head
+suddenly put itself into my window. "Excuse me, sir," said the
+stoker, "but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps you ought to know--
+there's a dead man in this train."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be
+finally overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have
+insisted on getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to
+say, I expressed myself politely, but firmly, to the effect that
+I didn't care particularly if the train took me to Paddington.
+But when the train had started with its unknown burden I did do
+one thing, and do it quite instinctively, without stopping to
+think, or to think more than a flash. I threw away my cigar.
+Something that is as old as man and has to do with all mourning
+and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there
+being only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the
+other smoking a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end
+of it faded like a funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic
+moment of a procession, I realised how immortal ritual is. I
+realised (what is the origin and essence of all ritual) that in
+the presence of those sacred riddles about which we can say
+nothing it is more decent merely to do something. And I realised
+that ritual will always mean throwing away something; DESTROYING
+our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang
+out of it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier
+and officials guarding the rear part of the train; no one was
+allowed to press towards it. They were guarding and hiding
+something; perhaps death in some too shocking form, perhaps
+something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up with human mystery
+and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of sanctity;
+perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough into
+the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces. Nor
+have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+IV
+
+THE PERFECT GAME
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have
+happened to him, but that he does not really believe that they
+were supernatural. My own position is the opposite of this.
+I believe in the supernatural as a matter of intellect and reason,
+not as a matter of personal experience. I do not see ghosts;
+I only see their inherent probability. But it is entirely
+a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy.
+But upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often
+leave a peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance
+that ever occurred to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted
+in nothing less than my playing a game, and playing it quite well
+for some seventeen consecutive minutes. The ghost of my grandfather
+would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and
+luxuriant side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene.
+I played it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had
+a semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest.
+It is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument;
+but it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+"Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!" I cried, patting him affectionately
+on the head with a mallet, "how far you really are from the pure
+love of the sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly
+who love the Game itself. You love glory; you love applause;
+you love the earthquake voice of victory; you do not love croquet.
+You do not love croquet until you love being beaten at croquet.
+It is we the bunglers who adore the occupation in the abstract.
+It is we to whom it is art for art's sake. If we may see the face
+of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself) we are content to
+see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is called amateurish;
+and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs is but the
+French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady, the most
+disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates (I
+allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within
+the pedantic boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek
+honour in the ends of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds
+and the conservatory; they are to be found in the front garden
+and the next street. No, Parkinson! The good painter has skill.
+It is the bad painter who loves his art. The good musician
+loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With such a
+pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or
+tape, as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland,
+the four seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and
+the click of the balls is music. The four colours are to me
+sacramental and symbolic, like the red of martyrdom, or the white
+of Easter Day. You lose all this, my poor Parkinson. You have to
+solace yourself for the absence of this vision by the paltry
+consolation of being able to go through hoops and to hit the stick."
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+"Don't be too sorry for me," said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm.
+"I shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more
+a man likes a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that
+the pleasure in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure
+of success come naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your
+own simile of the Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman
+does first and foremost want to be in the lady's presence. But I
+never yet heard of a gentleman who wanted to look an utter ass when
+he was there."
+
+"Perhaps not; though he generally looks it," I replied. "But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the
+love of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not
+true that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger
+will be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to
+enjoy it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant
+hoop as easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would
+not put it through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your
+hand; it would not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you
+would not play at all. The moment the game is perfect the game
+disappears."
+
+"I do not think, however," said Parkinson, "that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not
+think your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence.
+You are safe for the present."
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired myself,
+and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four
+more fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five
+more hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+"We shall have to give this up," said Parkinson, as he missed
+a ball almost for the first time, "I can't see a thing."
+
+"Nor can I," I answered, "and it is a comfort to reflect that I
+could not hit anything if I saw it."
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was
+the right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I
+supposed was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick.
+And in the dead silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball
+struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. "I can't stand this," I said. "My ball has
+gone right three times. These things are not of this world."
+
+"Pick your mallet up ," said Parkinson, "have another go."
+
+"I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see
+all the devils dancing there on the blessed grass."
+
+"Why devils?" asked Parkinson; "they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game."
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness,
+in which the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across
+the grass as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull
+click of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+V
+
+The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper
+columns. I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better
+expressed by some practical parable out of daily life than by any
+other method; therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the
+extraordinary cabman, which occurred to me only three days ago, and
+which, slight as it apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine
+emotion bordering upon despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching
+in a little restaurant in Soho in company with three or four
+of my best friends. My best friends are all either bottomless
+sceptics or quite uncontrollable believers, so our discussion
+at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate and terrible ideas.
+And the whole argument worked out ultimately to this: that the
+question is whether a man can be certain of anything at all.
+I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible
+intellectually to entertain certainty, what is this certainty
+which it is impossible to entertain? If I have never experienced
+such a thing as certainty I cannot even say that a thing is not
+certain. Similarly, if I have never experienced such a thing as
+green I cannot even say that my nose is not green. It may be as
+green as possible for all I know, if I have really no experience
+of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the room;
+because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing.
+And the difference between us was very deep, because it
+was a difference as to the object of the whole thing
+called broad-mindedness or the opening of the intellect.
+For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the sun
+opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening's sake,
+opening infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened
+my intellect as I opened my mouth, in order to shut it
+again on something solid. I was doing it at the moment.
+And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly silly
+if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short
+(for it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions,
+who in the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election
+had somehow become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab
+from the corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House
+of Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper
+is a discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude
+of detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab
+on a few hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I
+had to visit. I then got out and offered him more than his fare.
+He looked at it, but not with the surly doubt and general
+disposition to try it on which is not unknown among normal cabmen.
+But this was no normal, perhaps, no human, cabman. He looked at it
+with a dull and infantile astonishment, clearly quite genuine.
+"Do you know, sir," he said, "you've only given me 1s.8d?"
+I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. "Now you know,
+sir," said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, "you know
+that ain't the fare from Euston." "Euston," I repeated vaguely,
+for the phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia.
+"What on earth has Euston got to do with it?" "You hailed me just outside
+Euston Station," began the man with astonishing precision, "and then
+you said----" "What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?"
+I said with Christian forbearance; "I took you at the south-west
+corner of Leicester-square." "Leicester-square," he exclaimed,
+loosening a kind of cataract of scorn, "why we ain't been near
+Leicester-square to-day. You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----" "Are you mad, or am I?" I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would
+think of creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie.
+And this man was not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human
+face was heavy and simple and humble, and with great big
+blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever (in short)
+a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and
+down the street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming
+on. And for one second the old nightmare of the sceptic put
+its finger on my nerve. What was certainty? Was anybody
+certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the dull rut of the
+sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future life.
+The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we
+possess a past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically
+considered, except a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew
+deeper from the road. The cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate
+details of the gesture, the words, the complex but consistent
+course of action which I had adopted since that remarkable
+occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston Station. How did I
+know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not hailed him
+outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite equally
+firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I, and a
+member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment
+the universe and the stars swung just a hair's breadth from
+their balance, and the foundations of the earth were moved.
+But for the same reason that I believe in Democracy, for the same
+reason that I believe in free will, for the same reason that I
+believe in fixed character of virtue, the reason that could
+only be expressed by saying that I do not choose to be a lunatic,
+I continued to believe that this honest cabman was wrong,
+and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and
+ponderous sincerity, "You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----"
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind
+of frightful transfiguration of living astonishment,
+as if he had been lit up like a lamp from the inside.
+"Why, I beg your pardon, sir," he said. "I beg your pardon.
+I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I remember now.
+I beg your pardon." And with that this astonishing man let out
+his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance
+and the mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying
+that although his face had seemed so honest there was something
+unearthly and demoniac about him when seen from behind.
+Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me from my adherence to those
+sanities and certainties which I had defended earlier in the day.
+In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that my sense of reality,
+though it had rocked for an instant, had remained erect.
+
+
+VI
+
+An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called
+"The Extraordinary Cabman." I am now in a position to
+contribute my experience of a still more extraordinary cab.
+The extraordinary thing about the cab was that it did not like me;
+it threw me out violently in the middle of the Strand.
+If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are as romantic (and as rich)
+as I take them to be, I presume that this experience is not uncommon.
+I suppose that they are all being thrown out of cabs, all over London.
+Still, as there are some people, virginal and remote from the world,
+who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I will give
+a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--
+that one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged,
+will gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that
+it is both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in
+these two respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came
+to grief. But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it
+belongs to a beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is
+pretending to be richer than they are, and acting as if they were.
+It is comfortable, and yet it is reckless; and that combination
+is the very soul of England. But although I had always
+realised all these good qualities in a hansom cab, I had not
+experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put it,
+all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits
+of a hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up.
+Let me, therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom
+cab for the first and, I am happy to believe, the last time.
+Polycrates threw one ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates.
+I have thrown one hansom cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather
+violent metaphor) and the Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated.
+Though I am told they do not like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one
+of the sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own
+admirable articles with continual pleasure, and still more
+continual surprise, when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment
+on the scraping stones, staggered to his feet again, and went forward.
+The horses in my cabs often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy
+my own articles at any angle of the vehicle. So I did not see
+anything at all odd about the way the horse went on again.
+But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the people on the pavement.
+They were all turned towards me, and they were all struck
+with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky.
+And one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the
+elbow as if warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse.
+Then I knew that the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse
+was like a living thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly
+as they seemed to me; many details I may have missed or mis-stated;
+many details may have, so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road.
+I remember that I once called one of my experiences narrated in this
+paper "A Fragment of Fact." This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact.
+No fact could possibly be more fragmentary than the sort of fact
+that I expected to be at the bottom of that street.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally
+found that the converted do not understand their own religion.
+Thus I have always urged in this paper that democracy has
+a deeper meaning than democrats understand; that is, that common
+and popular things, proverbs, and ordinary sayings always have
+something in them unrealised by most who repeat them. Here is one.
+We have all heard about the man who is in momentary danger,
+and who sees the whole of his life pass before him in a moment.
+In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is obviously
+a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident
+or a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets
+he had ever taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever
+passed the brown bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards
+the traffic of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth
+behind this phrase, as there is behind all popular phrases.
+I did really have, in that short and shrieking period,
+a rapid succession of a number of fundamental points of view.
+I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as many seconds.
+My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere men
+is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded
+a state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper
+name has ever been found. The ancients called it Stoicism,
+and I think it must be what some German lunatics mean
+(if they mean anything) when they talk about Pessimism.
+It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that happens--
+as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously enough,
+came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic.
+It was a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that
+life was much too important ever to be anything but life.
+I hope that this was Christianity. At any rate, it occurred
+at the moment when we went crash into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling
+out from underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they
+must have added enormously to that great cause to which the
+Anti-Puritan League and I have recently dedicated ourselves.
+I mean the cause of the pleasures of the people. As to my demeanour
+when I emerged, I have two confessions to make, and they are both
+made merely in the interests of mental science. The first is that
+whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the moment before
+the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got off with a
+cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped.
+I can distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state
+of irremediable spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now,
+and I apologise both to the man and to the paper. I have not the
+least idea what was the meaning of this unnatural anger; I mention
+it as a psychological confession. It was immediately followed by
+extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly jokes to the policeman
+that he disgraced himself by continual laughter before all the
+little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him seriously.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention
+as a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain.
+At intervals of about every three minutes I kept on reminding
+the policeman that I had not paid the cabman, and that I hoped
+he would not lose his money. He said it would be all right,
+and the man would appear. But it was not until about half an hour
+afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a shock intolerable
+that the man might conceivably have lost more than half a crown;
+that he had been in danger as well as I. I had instinctively
+regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents, a god.
+I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more delicate
+charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin, and neglect
+the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I was once really
+tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might have been dead.
+Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross Hospital tied
+up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand. I felt upon
+me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something untried.
+So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+VII
+
+The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement
+and casting about for some phrase of consolation that should
+not be either insolent or weak, said at last, "I think one can
+live through these great sorrows and even be the better.
+What wears one is the little worries." "That's quite right, mum,"
+answered the old woman with emphasis, "and I ought to know,
+seeing I've had ten of 'em." It is, perhaps, in this sense
+that it is most true that little worries are most wearing.
+In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a truth,
+contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the
+right to say that they find the small ones the most bitter;
+and it is undoubtedly true that the back which is bowed under
+loads incredible can feel a faint addition to those loads;
+a giant holding up the earth and all its animal creation might
+still find the grasshopper a burden. But I am afraid that the
+maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is sometimes used
+or abused by people, because they have nothing but the very
+smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity
+she would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman
+may permit himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he
+would behave much better if it were a mere matter of starvation.
+We need not deny that the grasshopper on man's shoulder is
+a burden; but we need not pay much respect to the gentleman
+who is always calling out that he would rather have an elephant
+when he knows there are no elephants in the country.
+We may concede that a straw may break the camel's back,
+but we like to know that it really is the last straw and
+not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right
+to grumble, so long as they grumble about something else.
+It is a singular fact that if they are sane they almost always
+do grumble about something else. To talk quite reasonably about
+your own quite real wrongs is the quickest way to go off your head.
+But people with great troubles talk about little ones,
+and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very often
+has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly
+a very clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified
+in asking that he shall not make mountains out of molehills.
+I do no deny that molehills can sometimes be important.
+Small annoyances have this evil about them, that they can be more
+abrupt because they are more invisible; they cast no shadow before,
+they have no atmosphere. No one ever had a mystical premonition
+that he was going to tumble over a hassock. William III.
+died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose that with all his
+varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a mountain.
+But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask a happy man
+(not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences, and even make
+them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive poverty
+I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts,
+finding unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse,
+finding punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures
+to be drawn from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence
+because I have recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures
+which arise from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot,
+with the only alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--
+a stork is a poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if
+the thing itself symbolise something other than isolation.
+If we wish to see what a house is it must be a house in some
+uninhabited landscape. If we wish to depict what a man really
+is we must depict a man alone in a desert or on a dark sea sand.
+So long as he is a single figure he means all that humanity means;
+so long as he is solitary he means human society; so long
+as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship.
+Add another figure and the picture is less human--not more so.
+One is company, two is none. If you wish to symbolise
+human building draw one dark tower on the horizon; if you
+wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the sky.
+Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we
+call our day there is but one star in the sky--a large,
+fierce star which we call the sun. One sun is splendid;
+six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of Giotto is sublime;
+a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row of white posts.
+The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower; the poetry
+of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping
+the single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find
+the poetry of all human anatomy in standing on a single leg.
+To express complete and perfect leggishness the leg must stand
+in sublime isolation, like the tower in the wilderness.
+As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is that which
+stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity
+of some Doric column. The students of architecture tell us
+that the only legitimate use of a column is to support weight.
+This column of mine fulfils its legitimate function.
+It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic consistency,
+it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness
+or dislocation of the one leg may find compensation in the
+astonishing strength and classic beauty of the other leg.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr. George Meredith's novel might
+pass by at any moment, and seeing me in the stork-like attitude
+would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more literal exactitude,
+"He has a leg." Notice how this famous literary phrase supports
+my contention touching this isolation of any admirable thing.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg.
+She delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive
+fact that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous
+and irrelevant, a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have
+confused Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London.
+That having had one good leg he should have another--
+this would be to use vain repetitions as the Gentiles do.
+She would have been as much bewildered by him as if he had
+been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity,
+all desolation has for its real aim this separation of something
+so that it may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel
+grateful for the slight sprain which has introduced this mysterious
+and fascinating division between one of my feet and the other.
+The way to love anything is to realise that it might be lost.
+In one of my feet I can feel how strong and splendid a foot is;
+in the other I can realise how very much otherwise it might
+have been. The moral of the thing is wholly exhilarating.
+This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us.
+If you wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself
+if only for a moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully
+and wonderfully God's image is made, stand on one leg.
+If you want to realise the splendid vision of all visible things--
+wink the other eye.
+
+
+VIII
+
+The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious
+town of Besancon, which stands like a sort of peninsula
+in a horse-shoe of river. You may learn from the guide books
+that it was the birthplace of Victor Hugo, and that it is
+a military station with many forts, near the French frontier.
+But you will not learn from guide books that the very tiles
+on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate
+colour than the tiles of all the other towns of the world;
+that the tiles look like the little clouds of some strange sunset,
+or like the lustrous scales of some strange fish. They will not
+tell you that in this town the eye cannot rest on anything without
+finding it in some way attractive and even elvish, a carved face
+at a street corner, a gleam of green fields through a stunted arch,
+or some unexpected colour for the enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours
+so simple and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together
+and make a fairy tale. I sat down for a little outside a cafe
+with a row of little toy trees in front of it, and presently
+the driver of a fly (as we should call it) came to the same place.
+He was one of those very large and dark Frenchmen, a type not
+common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian Frenchman,
+huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was a sort
+of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but English.
+And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two nations.
+For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets,
+this Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--
+as if pleasure were a kind of pagan religion. After some
+talk which was full of the admirable civility and equality
+of French civilisation, he suggested without either eagerness
+or embarrassment that he should take me in his fly for an hour's
+ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was growing late
+I consented; for there was one long white road under an archway
+and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord.
+We drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans,
+and I remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we
+passed out of the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds
+which are the trinity of France. They make what some poet calls
+"a tangled trinity," and I am not going to disentangle it.
+Whatever those three things mean, how or why they co-exist;
+whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are reconciled already;
+the three sounds I heard then by an accident all at once make up
+the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino gardens behind
+me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some ramping tune
+from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on I heard
+also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible loyalties
+and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having
+left France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world.
+And, indeed, there was something in the landscape wild
+enough to encourage such a fancy. I have seen perhaps
+higher mountains, but I have never seen higher rocks;
+I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and sensational,
+splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of churches,
+cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from heaven.
+There was also a quality in the ride which was not only astonishing,
+but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have noticed
+if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads.
+I mean a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole
+earth turning about one's head. It is quite inadequate
+to say that the hills rose and fell like enormous waves.
+Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the enormous sails
+of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic wings.
+As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset this
+dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof.
+I stared at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a
+wooded plain. Below me steeps of green swept down to the river.
+I stared at them until I fancied that they swept up to the sky.
+The purple darkened, night drew nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer
+the chasms and draw higher the spires of that nightmare landscape.
+Above me in the twilight was the huge black hulk of the driver,
+and his broad, blank back was as mysterious as the back
+of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I was growing
+too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things.
+I called out to the driver in French, "Where are you taking me?"
+and it is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same
+language without turning around, "To the end of the world."
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark,
+steep ways, until I saw lights under a low roof of little
+trees and two children, one oddly beautiful, playing at ball.
+Then we found ourselves filling up the strict main street
+of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was written
+in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place.
+I ordered bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but
+had no name. On the other side of the road was a little plain
+church with a cross on top of it and a cock on top of the cross.
+This seemed to me a very good end of the world; if the story
+of the world ended here it ended well. Then I wondered whether I
+myself should really be content to end here, where most certainly
+there were the best things of Christendom--a church and children's
+games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me,
+and at last I started up.
+
+"Are you not satisfied?" asked my companion. "No," I said,
+"I am not satisfied even at the end of the world."
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, "Because you see there are two
+ends of the world. And this is the wrong end of the world;
+at least the wrong one for me. This is the French end of the world.
+I want the other end of the world. Drive me to the other end
+of the world."
+
+"The other end of the world?" he asked. "Where is that?"
+
+"It is in Walham Green," I whispered hoarsely. "You see it
+on the London omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.'
+Oh, I know how good this is; I love your vineyards and your
+free peasantry, but I want the English end of the world.
+I love you like a brother, but I want an English cabman,
+who will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman.
+Take, oh, take me to see a London policeman."
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset,
+and I could not tell whether he understood or not. I got back
+into his carriage.
+
+"You will understand," I said, "if ever you are an exile even
+for pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country,
+as a countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is
+rather too long a drive to the English end of the world,
+we may as well drive back to Besancon."
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept
+for Walham Green.
+
+
+IX
+
+In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a cafe in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with
+a capering figure, which stands in the place where the people
+destroyed a prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious
+example of how symbolic is the great part of human history.
+As a matter of mere material fact, the Bastille when it was taken
+was not a horrible prison; it was hardly a prison at all.
+But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a sure
+instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance,
+at the last General Election, or for President Kruger's hat
+in the election before; their poetic sense is perfect.
+The Chinaman with his pigtail is not an idle flippancy.
+He does typify with a compact precision exactly the thing
+the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots,
+that it is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy
+and evil magic calling monsters from the ends of the earth.
+The people hate the mine owner who can bring a Chinaman
+flying across the sea, exactly as the people hated the wizard
+who could fetch a flying dragon through the air. It was the same
+with Mr. Kruger's hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was not merely
+a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the exact
+thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the
+unbeautiful dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of
+political morality. No; the people are sometimes wrong on the
+practical side of politics; they are never wrong on the artistic
+side.
+
+. . . . .
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform.
+It was an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image.
+The people saw the building like a giant looking at them with
+a score of eyes, and they struck at it as at a carved fact.
+For of all the shapes in which that immense illusion called materialism
+can terrify the soul, perhaps the most oppressive are big buildings.
+Man feels like a fly, an accident, in the thing he has himself made.
+It requires a violent effort of the spirit to remember that
+man made this confounding thing and man could unmake it.
+Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual,
+a ritual meaning far beyond its immediate political results.
+It is a religious service. If, for instance, the Socialists were
+numerous or courageous enough to capture and smash up the Bank
+of England, you might argue for ever about the inutility of the act,
+and how it really did not touch the root of the economic problem
+in the correct manner. But mankind would never forget it.
+It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength
+of a society, for the most valuable things in a human
+state are the irrevocable things--marriage, for instance.
+And architecture approaches nearer than any other art to
+being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get rid of.
+You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall.
+You can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of
+very sincere emotion that you tear a town-hall to pieces.
+A building is akin to dogma; it is insolent, like a dogma.
+Whether or no it is permanent, it claims permanence like a dogma.
+People ask why we have no typical architecture of the modern world,
+like impressionism in painting. Surely it is obviously
+because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in
+the sky that does not change like the clouds of the sky.
+But along with this decision which is involved in creating a building,
+there goes a quite similar decision in the more delightful
+task of smashing one. The two of necessity go together.
+In few places have so many fine public buildings been set up
+as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been destroyed.
+When people have finally got into the horrible habit of preserving
+buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few
+are pulled down.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty
+and Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like
+so many such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and
+silent line of horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and
+prosaic enough, but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their
+helmets; and their helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans.
+I had seen them by twos and threes often enough before.
+I had seen plenty of them in pictures toiling through the snows
+of Friedland or roaring round the squares at Waterloo.
+But now they came file after file, like an invasion,
+and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that lit
+up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie
+into which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet
+and cry out, "The French soldiers!" There were the little men
+with the brown faces that had so often ridden through the capitals
+of Europe as coolly as they now rode through their own.
+And when I looked across the square I saw that the two other corners
+were choked with blue and red; held by little groups of infantry.
+The city was garrisoned as against a revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker.
+He said he was not going to "Chomer." I said, "Qu'est-ce que
+c'est que le chome?" He said, "Ils ne veulent pas travailler."
+I said, "Ni moi non plus," and he thought I was a class-conscious
+collectivist proletarian. The whole thing was curious, and the true
+moral of it one not easy for us, as a nation, to grasp, because our
+own faults are so deeply and dangerously in the other direction.
+To me, as an Englishman (personally steeped in the English optimism
+and the English dislike of severity), the whole thing seemed a fuss
+about nothing. It looked like turning out one of the best armies
+in Europe against ordinary people walking about the street.
+The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less harmlessly.
+But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not)
+as docile as the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled,
+so to speak, through the whole noisy night. This people has
+a natural faculty for feeling itself on the eve of something--of the
+Bartholomew or the Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment.
+It is this sense of crisis that makes France eternally young.
+It is perpetually pulling down and building up, as it pulled down
+the prison and put up the column in the Place de La Bastille.
+France has always been at the point of dissolution. She has found
+the only method of immortality. She dies daily.
+
+
+X
+
+On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience
+if only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic
+apparatus on the premises. I think myself that the thing
+might be managed with several pails of Aspinall and a broom.
+Only if one worked in a really sweeping and masterly way,
+and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip down again
+on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages.
+I am afraid it would be necessary to stick to black and white
+in this form of artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed,
+the white ceiling would be of the greatest possible use; in fact,
+it is the only use I think of a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces
+in a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, "Il me faut des geants."
+But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern
+rooms such as we all live in I was continually disappointed.
+I found an endless pattern and complication of small objects
+hung like a curtain of fine links between me and my desire.
+I examined the walls; I found them to my surprise to be
+already covered with wallpaper, and I found the wallpaper
+to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand
+why one arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely
+devoid of any religious or philosophical significance)
+should thus be sprinkled all over my nice walls like a sort
+of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to wallpapers, I think,
+when it says, "Use not vain repetitions, as the Gentiles do."
+I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called
+Turkish Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight
+really is; but I suppose it is Macedonian Massacres.
+Everywhere that I went forlornly, with my pencil or my paint brush,
+I found that others had unaccountably been before me,
+spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with their
+childish and barbaric designs.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this occasion
+when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying on my back
+in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my vision,
+that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom.
+But alas! like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found
+to be unattainable; it looks more austere and more distant
+than the blue sky outside the window. For my proposal to paint
+on it with the bristly end of a broom has been discouraged--
+never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all political rights--
+and even my minor proposal to put the other end of the broom into
+the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been conceded.
+Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that all
+the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods.
+I am sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged
+in the ancient and honourable occupation of lying in bed that
+he ever realized how the roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made
+into an awful imitation of a divine drama that could only be acted
+in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed
+is hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity
+that seem to mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing
+and dangerous than the exultation of very small and secondary
+matters of conduct at the expense of very great and primary ones,
+at the expense of eternal ties and tragic human morality.
+If there is one thing worse than the modern weakening of major morals,
+it is the modern strengthening of minor morals. Thus it is considered
+more withering to accuse a man of bad taste than of bad ethics.
+Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays, for cleanliness
+is made essential and godliness is regarded as an offence.
+A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long
+as he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met
+Ibsenite pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right
+to take prussic acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene;
+notably such matters as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded,
+as it ought to be, as a matter of personal convenience
+and adjustment, it has come to be regarded by many as if it
+were a part of essential morals to get up early in the morning.
+It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but there is nothing
+good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed,
+get up the night before. It is the great peril of our society
+that all its mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows
+more fickle. A man's minor actions and arrangements ought to
+be free, flexible, creative; the things that should be unchangeable
+are his principles, his ideals. But with us the reverse is true;
+our views change constantly; but our lunch does not change.
+Now, I should like men to have strong and rooted conceptions,
+but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes in the garden,
+sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the top
+of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles,
+but let them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon.
+This alarming growth of good habits really means a too great emphasis
+on those virtues which mere custom can ensure, it means too little
+emphasis on those virtues which custom can never quite ensure,
+sudden and splendid virtues of inspired pity or of inspired candour.
+If ever that abrupt appeal is made to us we may fail.
+A man can get use to getting up at five o'clock in the morning.
+A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his opinions;
+the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little more
+attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed
+of an almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed
+(like journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done
+in bed (as, for example, the professional harpooners of whales),
+it is obvious that the indulgence must be very occasional.
+But that is not the caution I mean. The caution is this:
+if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it without any reason or
+justification at all. I do not speak, of course, of the seriously sick.
+But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it without a rag of excuse;
+then he will get up a healthy man. If he does it for some secondary
+hygienic reason, if he has some scientific explanation, he may get
+up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+XI
+
+The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I was,
+so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden
+and arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea,
+and my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were
+also summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions
+of men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began
+with a C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping
+alphabetical way. At one official blow, so to speak,
+Battersea is denuded of all its C's, and left to get on
+as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A Cumberpatch
+is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--
+three Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children
+are crying out for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street
+corner is weeping for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted.
+We settle down with a rollicking ease into our seats
+(for we are a bold, devil-may-care race, the C's of Battersea),
+and an oath is administered to us in a totally inaudible manner
+by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his second childhood.
+We understand, however, that we are to well and truly try the case
+between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the bar,
+neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner
+were, perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some
+adjoining public house, the prisoner's head appears above
+the barrier of the dock; he is accused of stealing bicycles,
+and he is the living image of a great friend of mine.
+We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the
+prisoner in the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the
+conclusion, after a brief but reasonable discussion, that
+the King is not in any way implicated. Then we pass on to a
+woman who neglected her children, and who looks as if somebody
+or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who fancy
+that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances
+and the brain passed these light criticisms, there was in
+the heart a barbaric pity and fear which men have never been
+able to utter from the beginning, but which is the power behind
+half the poems of the world. The mood cannot even adequately
+be suggested, except faintly by this statement that tragedy
+is the highest expression of the infinite value of human life.
+Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away
+from pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these
+dark emotions at all, for speech about them is too difficult;
+but I mention them now for a specific and particular
+reason to the statement of which I will proceed at once.
+I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of them there
+came a curious realisation of a political or social truth.
+I saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what
+a jury really is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers
+because they fight better, trained singers because they sing better,
+trained dancers because they dance better, specially instructed
+laughers because they laugh better, and so on and so on.
+The principle has been applied to law and politics by innumerable
+modern writers. Many Fabians have insisted that a greater
+part of our political work should be performed by experts.
+Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should be
+altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable,
+I do not know that there would be any fault to find with this.
+But the true result of all experience and the true foundation
+of all religion is this. That the four or five things
+that it is most practically essential that a man should know,
+are all of them what people call paradoxes. That is to say,
+that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty
+of seeming verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance,
+is the unimpeachable platitude that the man who finds most
+pleasure for himself is often the man who least hunts for it.
+Another is the paradox of courage; the fact that the way
+to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful
+cliff above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness.
+Whoever will lose his life, the same shall save it;
+an entirely practical and prosaic statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught
+to every infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following:
+That the more a man looks at a thing, the less he can see it,
+and the more a man learns a thing the less he knows it.
+The Fabian argument of the expert, that the man who is trained
+should be the man who is trusted would be absolutely unanswerable
+if it were really true that a man who studied a thing and practiced
+it every day went on seeing more and more of its significance.
+But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its significance.
+In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we are
+continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility,
+seeing less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of men.
+But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can
+to other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun.
+And the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best,
+about all judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen,
+is not that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they
+are stupid (several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply
+that they have got used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they
+see is the usual man in the usual place. They do not see
+the awful court of judgment; they only see their own workshop.
+Therefore, the instinct of Christian civilisation has most wisely
+declared that into their judgments there shall upon every occasion
+be infused fresh blood and fresh thoughts from the streets.
+Men shall come in who can see the court and the crowd,
+and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional criminals,
+the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture
+or a play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided,
+that determining the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too
+important to be trusted to trained men. It wishes for light upon
+that awful matter, it asks men who know no more law than I know,
+but who can feel the things that I felt in the jury box.
+When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system discovered,
+or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when it
+wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve
+of the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I
+remember right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+XII
+
+The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf
+about the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks
+and roars in something that is at once exultation and agony.
+I feel, in fact, as if I were actually sitting at the bottom
+of the sea among mere anchors and ropes, while over my head
+and over the green twilight of water sounded the everlasting rush
+of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of tremendous ships.
+The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck them root
+and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy,
+the trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they
+were a tribe of dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible
+and violent witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind.
+I remember a little boy of my acquaintance who was once walking
+in Battersea Park under just such torn skies and tossing trees.
+He did not like the wind at all; it blew in his face too much;
+it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his hat, of which
+he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about four.
+After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said
+at last to his mother, "Well, why don't you take away the trees,
+and then it wouldn't wind."
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake.
+Any one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy
+that they were indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere
+waving agitated the air around them for miles. Nothing, I say,
+could be more human and excusable than the belief that it is
+the trees which make the wind. Indeed, the belief is so human
+and excusable that it is, as a matter of fact, the belief of about
+ninety-nine out of a hundred of the philosophers, reformers,
+sociologists, and politicians of the great age in which we live.
+My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal modern thinkers;
+only much nicer.
+
+. . . . .
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour
+of inventing, the trees stand for all visible things
+and the wind for the invisible. The wind is the spirit
+which bloweth where it listeth; the trees are the material
+things of the world which are blown where the spirit lists.
+The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees are
+cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind
+because the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad.
+We only know that there is a real revolution because all
+the chimney-pots go mad on the whole skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more
+ragged and rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails,
+so the human city rises under the wind of the spirit into toppling
+temples or sudden spires. No man has ever seen a revolution.
+Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood pouring down the gutters,
+the guillotine lifted higher than the throne, a prison
+in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind.
+So, also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that
+there is a revolution. And there never has been in the history
+of the world a real revolution, brutally active and decisive,
+which was not preceded by unrest and new dogma in the reign
+of invisible things. All revolutions began by being abstract.
+Most revolutions began by being quite pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved.
+So there must always be a battle in the sky before there
+is a battle on the earth. Since it is lawful to pray
+for the coming of the kingdom, it is lawful also to pray for
+the coming of the revolution that shall restore the kingdom.
+It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the trees.
+It is lawful to pray "Thine anger come on earth as it
+is in Heaven."
+
+. . . . .
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees.
+The great human heresy is that the trees move the wind.
+When people begin to say that the material circumstances have
+alone created the moral circumstances, then they have prevented
+all possibility of serious change. For if my circumstances
+have made me wholly stupid, how can I be certain even that I
+am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment
+is simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--
+including that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate
+authority is necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking.
+And nothing will ever be reformed in this age or country unless
+we realise that the moral fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard
+in debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists
+and total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty;
+the former say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their
+either of them being content with such simple physical explanations.
+Surely it is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat
+leads to poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink;
+the absence of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct
+that resists degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has
+this quality, which may strictly be called "hand to mouth," because under
+its influence a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth,
+instead of seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose.
+And a man who says that the English inequality in land is due only
+to economic causes, or that the drunkenness of England is due only
+to economic causes, is saying something so absurd that he cannot
+really have thought what he was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under
+the influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the
+economic theory of history. We have people who represent that all
+great historic motives were economic, and then have to howl at the
+top of their voices in order to induce the modern democracy to act
+on economic motives. The extreme Marxian politicians in England
+exhibit themselves as a small, heroic minority, trying vainly to
+induce the world to do what, according to their theory, the world
+always does. The truth is, of course, that there will be a social
+revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be purely economic.
+You can never have a revolution in order to establish a democracy.
+You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight
+rain have ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars
+in a clear sunlight. The tossing of the trees and the blowing
+of the wind have ceased simultaneously. So I suppose there
+are still modern philosophers who will maintain that the trees
+make the wind.
+
+
+XIII
+
+The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw hat;
+with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers,
+but with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes.
+He was gazing with a rather gloomy interest at the cluster,
+one might almost say the tangle, of small shipping which grew thicker
+as our little pleasure boat crawled up into Yarmouth Harbour.
+A boat entering this harbour, as every one knows, does not
+enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps round
+at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear.
+The passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic,
+and in consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed
+under a timber ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens
+like a cathedral, the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden
+figurehead carved like a woman, and said, like one continuing
+a conversation, "Now, why have they left off having them.
+They didn't do any one any harm?"
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note.
+There has been something in our most recent civilisation which is
+mysteriously hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+"They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty," he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. "I believe they broke up all the jolly
+old figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it."
+
+"Like Mr. Quilp," I answered, "when he battered the wooden Admiral
+with the poker."
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time
+he stood erect and stared at me.
+
+"Do you come to Yarmouth for that?" he asked.
+
+"For what?"
+
+"For Dickens," he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+"No," I answered; "I come for fun, though that is much the same thing."
+
+"I always come," he answered quietly, "to find Peggotty's boat.
+It isn't here."
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred
+to the people who live there. I myself have never come
+to the end of the list of Batterseas. But there are two to
+the stranger and tourist; the poor part, which is dignified,
+and the prosperous part, which is savagely vulgar.
+My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost;
+to the latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+"The place is very much spoilt now . . . trippers, you know,"
+he would say, not at all scornfully, but simply sadly.
+That was the nearest he would go to an admission of the monstrous
+watering place that lay along the front, outblazing the sun,
+and more deafening than the sea. But behind--out of earshot
+of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that they seem
+like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose.
+There are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one
+of them is like plunging into a pool. In these places the man
+and I paced up and down talking about Dickens, or, rather,
+doing what all true Dickensians do, telling each other verbatim
+long passages which both of us knew quite well already.
+We were really in the atmosphere of the older England.
+Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters
+like Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and
+bought pipe-stoppers carved into figures from Pickwick.
+The evening was settling down between all the buildings
+with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when we went
+into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+"Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant
+for the angel at the sepulchre."
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+"I daresay," he said. "What is there odd about that?"
+
+After a pause I said, "Do you remember what the angel at
+the sepulchre said?"
+
+"Not particularly," he answered; "but where are you off
+to in such a hurry?"
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the
+fishermen's almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring
+indignantly where I was going.
+
+"I am going," I said, "to put pennies in automatic machines
+on the beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going
+to have my photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer
+out of its original bottle. I will buy some picture postcards.
+I do want a boat. I am ready to listen to a concertina,
+and but for the defects of my education should be ready to play it.
+I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is, if the donkey is willing.
+I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was commanded me
+by the angel in the stained-glass window."
+
+"I really think," said the Dickensian, "that I had better put
+you in charge of your relations."
+
+"Sir," I answered, "there are certain writers to whom humanity
+owes much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective
+a type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places
+or certain perishing associations. It would not be unnatural
+to look for the spirit of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill,
+or even for the shade of Thackeray in Old Kensington.
+But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for Dickens
+is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury,
+but he would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy,
+but it would be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it.
+We will not have all his books bound up under the title
+of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather we will have them
+all bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.'
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make
+something of it, swallow it with a holy cannibalism,
+and assimilate it with the digestion of a giant. We must
+take these trippers as he would have taken them, and tear
+out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember
+now what the angel said at the sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the
+living among the dead? He is not here; he is risen.'"
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands,
+which were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite
+desperate democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory,
+flung far over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic
+firelight of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure
+looked at once grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell.
+I heard a little girl (who was being throttled by another little girl)
+say by way of self-vindication, "My sister-in-law 'as got four rings
+aside her weddin' ring!"
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+XIV
+
+In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees
+and the secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world
+moving under the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor
+merely because I happened to be writing the article in a wood.
+Nevertheless, now that I return to Fleet Street (which seems to me,
+I confess, much better and more poetical than all the wild woods
+in the world), I am strangely haunted by this accidental comparison.
+The people's figures seem a forest and their soul a wind.
+All the human personalities which speak or signal to me seem to have
+this fantastic character of the fringe of the forest against the sky.
+That man that talks to me, what is he but an articulate tree?
+That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me to tell me
+to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches stirred
+and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can continue
+to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering
+my person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that
+blast of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy?
+Gradually this impression of the woods wears off. But this
+black-and-white contrast between the visible and invisible, this deep
+sense that the one essential belief is belief in the invisible as against
+the visible, is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind.
+Exactly at the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is,
+most bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet,
+on which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?"
+
+. . . . .
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well
+have turned upside down. The men in Fleet Street might
+have been walking about on their hands. The cross of
+St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside down.
+For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe
+that the waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say,
+they believe that the material circumstances, however black
+and twisted, are more important than the spiritual realities,
+however powerful and pure. "Should Shop Assistants Marry?" I am
+puzzled to think what some periods and schools of human history
+would have made of such a question. The ascetics of the East
+or of some periods of the early Church would have thought
+that the question meant, "Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster means.
+In some pagan cities it might have meant, "Shall slaves so vile
+as shop assistants even be allowed to propagate their abject race?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster meant.
+We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what it does mean.
+It does really mean that a section of the human race is asking
+whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are particularly
+good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether Adam
+and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove.
+If this is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be.
+We ask whether the universal institution will improve our
+(please God) temporary institution. Yet I have known many
+such questions. For instance, I have known a man ask seriously,
+"Does Democracy help the Empire?" Which is like saying,
+"Is art favourable to frescoes?"
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked.
+But if the world ever runs short of them, I can suggest
+a large number of questions of precisely the same kind,
+based on precisely the same principle.
+
+"Do Feet Improve Boots?"--"Is Bread Better when Eaten?"--"Should
+Hats have Heads in them?"--"Do People Spoil a Town?"--"Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?"--"Should Neckties enclose Necks?"--"Do Hands
+Hurt Walking-sticks?"--"Does Burning Destroy Firewood?"--"Is
+Cleanliness Good for Soap?"--"Can Cricket Really Improve
+Cricket-bats?"--"Shall We Take Brides with our Wedding Rings?"
+and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport
+or in intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from
+the purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by
+half of the earnest economists of our times. All the questions they
+ask are of this character; they are all tinged with this same initial
+absurdity. They do not ask if the means is suited to the end; they
+all ask (with profound and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited
+to the means. They do not ask whether the tail suits the dog.
+They all ask whether a dog is (by the highest artistic canons)
+the most ornamental appendage that can be put at the end of a tail.
+In short, instead of asking whether our modern arrangements,
+our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete institutions are
+suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy human life,
+they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments;
+and then they only ask whether that healthy human life is suited
+to our streets and trades. Perfection may be attainable or
+unattainable as an end. It may or may not be possible to talk
+of imperfection as a means to perfection. But surely it passes
+toleration to talk of perfection as a means to imperfection.
+The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream.
+But surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem
+is a reality on the road to Birmingham.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret
+of the modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought
+to be simple enough. A really human human being would always put
+the spiritual things first. A walking and speaking statue of God
+finds himself at one particular moment employed as a shop assistant.
+He has in himself a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity,
+a thirst for some loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary
+course of things he asks himself, "How far do the existing conditions
+of those assisting in shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny
+in the matter of love and marriage?" But here, as I have said,
+comes in the quiet and crushing power of modern materialism.
+It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he would otherwise do.
+By perpetually talking about environment and visible things,
+by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron
+machinery and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of
+towers of stone, modern materialism at last produces this
+tremendous impression in which the truth is stated upside down.
+At last the result is achieved. The man does not say as
+he ought to have said, "Should married men endure being modern
+shop assistants?" The man says, "Should shop assistants marry?"
+Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism.
+The slave does not say, "Are these chains worthy of me?"
+The slave says scientifically and contentedly, "Am I even worthy
+of these chains?"
+
+
+XV
+
+What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have
+made the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat,
+with an astracan moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache.
+Whether he put on the moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic
+will enabled him not only to grow a moustache in the usual place,
+but also to grow little moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know.
+I only remember that he said to me the following words: "A man can't
+get on nowadays by hanging about with his hands in his pockets."
+I made reply with the quite obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got
+on by having his hands in other people's pockets; whereupon he began
+to argue about Moral Evolution, so I suppose what I said had some
+truth in it. But the incident now comes back to me, and connects
+itself with another incident--if you can call it an incident--
+which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I
+had at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief;
+I had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets
+are still there; the same presumption applies to the things
+that I have dropped into the sea. But I regard the riches stored
+in both these bottomless chasms with the same reverent ignorance.
+They tell us that on the last day the sea will give up its dead;
+and I suppose that on the same occasion long strings of
+extraordinary things will come running out of my pockets.
+But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all
+surprised at finding among them.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence.
+I here only wish briefly to recall the special, extraordinary,
+and hitherto unprecedented circumstances which led me in
+cold blood, and being of sound mind, to turn out my pockets.
+I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a rather long journey.
+The time was towards evening, but it might have been anything,
+for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting
+sheet of quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers.
+I had not even a pencil and a scrap of paper with which
+to write a religious epic. There were no advertisements
+on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could have plunged
+into the study, for any collection of printed words is quite
+enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity.
+When I find myself opposite the words "Sunlight Soap" I can
+exhaust all the aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer
+poetry before I go on to the less congenial subject of soap.
+But there was no printed word or picture anywhere; there was
+nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank wet without.
+Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can
+be, uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats,
+and began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood.
+Just as I had begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ
+was a carpenter, rather than a bricklayer, or a baker,
+or anything else, I suddenly started upright, and remembered
+my pockets. I was carrying about with me an unknown treasury.
+I had a British Museum and a South Kensington collection
+of unknown curios hung all over me in different places.
+I began to take the things out.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of
+Battersea tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase.
+They shook down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course,
+they touched my patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes;
+also they provided me with the printed matter I required,
+for I found on the back of them some short but striking
+little scientific essays about some kind of pill. Comparatively
+speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might be regarded
+as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my railway
+journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a few months
+longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the controversial
+aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro and con
+upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the
+cross of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper
+meant all that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the
+greatest hope of England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife,
+I need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral
+meditations all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most
+primary of those practical origins upon which as upon low,
+thick pillows all our human civilisation reposes. Metals, the
+mystery of the thing called iron and of the thing called steel,
+led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream. I saw into the
+intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among all the
+common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth.
+I saw all the swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war.
+For the knife is only a short sword; and the pocket-knife
+is a secret sword. I opened it and looked at that brilliant
+and terrible tongue which we call a blade; and I thought that
+perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs of man.
+The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing
+that came next out of my pocket was a box of matches.
+Then I saw fire, which is stronger even than steel, the old,
+fierce female thing, the thing we all love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw
+in it all the art and all the frescoes of the world.
+The next was a coin of a very modest value; and I saw in it
+not only the image and superscription of our own Caesar,
+but all government and order since the world began.
+But I have not space to say what were the items in the long and
+splendid procession of poetical symbols that came pouring out.
+I cannot tell you all the things that were in my pocket.
+I can tell you one thing, however, that I could not find in my pocket.
+I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+XVI
+
+The Dragon's Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales.
+I do not mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated
+in them--that he did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into
+a coach. He did, indeed, entertain this curious disbelief.
+And, like all the other people I have ever met who entertained it,
+he was wholly unable to give me an intelligent reason for it.
+He tried the laws of nature, but he soon dropped that.
+Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary experience,
+and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted pumpkinity.
+But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply
+the attitude we adopt towards all unusual occurrences.
+If we were certain of miracles we should not count on them.
+Things that happen very seldom we all leave out of
+our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not.
+I do not expect a glass of water to be turned into wine;
+but neither do I expect a glass of water to be poisoned with
+prussic acid. I do not in ordinary business relations act
+on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but neither do I
+act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is
+not that the natural order is unalterable, but simply that it
+is much safer to bet on uncommon incidents than on common ones.
+This does not touch the credibility of any attested tale
+about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned into a coach.
+If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined
+to assume that the same thing would happen again. I should not
+invest largely in pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade.
+Cinderella got a ball dress from the fairy; but I do not suppose
+that she looked after her own clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened,
+though crazy, is common. The man I speak of disbelieved
+in fairy tales in an even more amazing and perverted sense.
+He actually thought that fairy tales ought not to be told
+to children. That is (like a belief in slavery or annexation)
+one of those intellectual errors which lie very near
+to ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which,
+though they may be done what is called conscientiously,
+yet carry so much of their whole horror in the very act of them,
+that a man must in doing them not only harden but slightly
+corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of milk to young
+mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too
+helpless even to find his way to the Church of England. He had a
+curious green necktie and a very long neck; I am always meeting
+idealists with very long necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal
+aspiration slowly lifts their heads nearer and nearer to the stars.
+Or perhaps it has something to do with the fact that so many of
+them are vegetarians: perhaps they are slowly evolving the neck of
+the giraffe so that they can eat all the tops of the trees in
+Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense above me.
+Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy tales;
+and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had
+begun to read "Grimm's Fairy tales" as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was "Suburban Sue: A Tale
+of Psychology," and also "Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia";
+there was "Trixy: A Temperament," and "Man-Hate: A Monochrome," and all
+those nice things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough,
+I grew tired of them at last, and when I saw "Grimm's Fairy Tales"
+lying accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy.
+Here at least, here at last, one could find a little common sense.
+I opened the book, and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying
+words, "The Dragon's Grandmother." That at least was reasonable;
+that at least was true. "The Dragon's Grandmother!" While I was
+rolling this first touch of ordinary human reality upon my tongue,
+I looked up suddenly and saw this monster with a green tie standing
+in the doorway.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough,
+I hope; but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe
+in fairy tales, I broke out beyond control. "Man," I said,
+"who are you that you should not believe in fairy tales?
+It is much easier to believe in Blue Beard than to believe in you.
+A blue beard is a misfortune; but there are green ties which are sins.
+It is far easier to believe in a million fairy tales
+than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales.
+I would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all
+his stories as if they were thirty-nine articles than say
+seriously and out of my heart that there can be such a man as you;
+that you are not some temptation of the devil or some delusion
+from the void. Look at these plain, homely, practical words.
+'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all right; that is rational
+almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was a dragon,
+he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother!
+If you had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales.
+You had no father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you.
+You cannot be. I believe many things which I have not seen;
+but of such things as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he that has
+seen and yet has disbelieved.'"
+
+. . . . .
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy,
+so I moderated my tone. "Can you not see," I said, "that fairy
+tales in their essence are quite solid and straightforward;
+but that this everlasting fiction about modern life is in its
+nature essentially incredible? Folk-lore means that the soul
+is sane, but that the universe is wild and full of marvels.
+Realism means that the world is dull and full of routine, but that
+the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the fairy tale is--
+what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The problem
+of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins,
+and suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos.
+In the excellent tale of 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other
+tales of Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his
+travels will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave,
+full of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents,
+keep his word, rescue one kind of people, defy another kind,
+'parcere subjectis et debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed
+this centre of sanity, the writer entertains himself by fancying
+what would happen if the whole world went mad all round it,
+if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses had six legs
+and giants had two heads. But your modern literature takes insanity
+as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of insanity.
+A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite serious;
+that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is
+a piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass.
+A man who thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken.
+It is only sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity.
+Therefore, these wise old tales made the hero ordinary and
+the tale extraordinary. But you have made the hero extraordinary
+and the tale ordinary--so ordinary--oh, so very ordinary."
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me
+under the hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, "In the name
+of God and Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother--in the name of all
+good things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more."
+Whether or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt
+that he definitely went away.
+
+
+XVII
+
+The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him
+I can never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest
+letter saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even
+if they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy
+tales, because it frightens them. You might just as well say that
+it is cruel to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry.
+All this kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting
+of what a child is like which has been the firm foundation
+of so many educational schemes. If you keep bogies and goblins
+away from children they would make them up for themselves.
+One small child in the dark can invent more hells than Swedenborg.
+One small child can imagine monsters too big and black
+to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly
+and cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic.
+The child, to begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he
+continues to indulge in them even when he does not like them.
+There is just as much difficulty in saying exactly where pure
+pain begins in his case, as there is in ours when we walk of our
+own free will into the torture-chamber of a great tragedy.
+The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable;
+they are alarmed at this world, because this world is a very
+alarming place. They dislike being alone because it is verily
+and indeed an awful idea to be alone. Barbarians fear
+the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics worship it--
+because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear;
+fairy tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly;
+that is in the child already, because it is in the world already.
+Fairy tales do not give the child his first idea of bogey.
+What fairy tales give the child is his first clear idea
+of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby has known
+the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination.
+What the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to
+kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him
+for a series of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless
+terrors had a limit, that these shapeless enemies have enemies
+in the knights of God, that there is something in the universe
+more mystical than darkness, and stronger than strong fear.
+When I was a child I have stared at the darkness until the whole
+black bulk of it turned into one negro giant taller than heaven.
+If there was one star in the sky it only made him a Cyclops.
+But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite
+equal dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself
+(of similar inexperience and even lower social status)
+by means of a sword, some bad riddles, and a brave heart.
+Sometimes the sea at night seemed as dreadful as any dragon.
+But then I was acquainted with many youngest sons and little
+sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery,
+the excellent tale of the "Boy who Could not Shudder," and you
+will see what I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale.
+I remember specially a man's legs which fell down the chimney
+by themselves and walked about the room, until they were rejoined
+by the severed head and body which fell down the chimney after them.
+That is very good. But the point of the story and the point
+of the reader's feelings is not that these things are frightening,
+but the far more striking fact that the hero was not frightened at them.
+The most fearful of all these fearful wonders was his own absence
+of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked the devils
+to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled with some
+modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his spirit.
+If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it;
+it is the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught
+to shudder by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him.
+In that one sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage
+than in all the books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd and
+St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone.
+For the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in
+the universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted;
+but the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied.
+As I told "H. N. B." (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its
+most superstitious sense), the one thing modern people really do
+believe in is damnation. The greatest of purely modern poets summed
+up the really modern attitude in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+"There may be Heaven; there must be Hell."
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition;
+and the new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin
+by being gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits.
+Now they are beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they
+should make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion.
+For almost all the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new,
+is solemn and sad. Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian
+saints were a little too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism
+are both lawless and serious--a disgusting combination. The specially
+contemporary spirits are not only devils, they are blue devils.
+This is, first and last, the real value of Christmas; in so far
+as the mythology remains at all it is a kind of happy mythology.
+Personally, of course, I believe in Santa Claus; but it is the season
+of forgiveness, and I will forgive others for not doing so.
+But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the defect in our
+world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for instance,
+to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called "The Turn of the Screw."
+It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is one
+of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to have
+been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of
+the foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether
+Mr. Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent,
+do not buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question
+so doubtful that I will give that truly great man a chance.
+I will approve the thing as well as admire it if he will write
+another tale just as powerful about two children and Santa Claus.
+If he will not, or cannot, then the conclusion is clear; we can
+deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not with happy mystery;
+we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil.
+That is exactly what I mean.
+
+
+XVIII
+
+The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought
+(though not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies
+of architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve
+the one startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts.
+But this sort of sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy
+and energy of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most
+prosaic landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings.
+Here Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable.
+Here the fields are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand,
+the streets and roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind.
+The waters of wood and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly
+as if they were in the London water-pipes. But the parish
+pump is carved with all the creatures out of the wilderness.
+Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of wild animals,
+but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music that are
+more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast at night.
+And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their strength,
+seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the primal mire,
+and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a startled bird.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit
+in humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only
+man who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man
+is ever undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who
+are wild. And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to
+all human art, it is also generally characteristic of Christian art
+among the arts of the world. This is what people really mean when
+they say that Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance.
+As a matter of historic fact, it didn't; it arose in the most
+equably civilised period the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks
+the outline of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots
+with anger the blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry
+charge the horses of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage,
+in the sense that it is primeval; there is in it a touch
+of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate in which I had praised
+militant music in ritual, and some one asked me if I could
+imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ
+definitely approved a natural noisiness at a great moment.
+When the street children shouted too loud, certain priggish
+disciples did begin to rebuke them in the name of good taste.
+He said: "If these were silent the very stones would cry out."
+With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words
+He founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this,
+which seems to have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves,
+anywhere and anyhow, any odd brick or moulding may be carved off
+into a shouting face. The front of vast buildings is thronged
+with open mouths, angels praising God, or devils defying Him.
+Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to scream.
+The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable
+in the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant
+things in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All
+Christian temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges
+Belfry is a gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like
+a giraffe. The same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind
+at every corner of a Flemish town. And if any one asks,
+"Why did the people of these flat countries instinctively raise
+these riotous and towering monuments?" the only answer one can
+give is, "Because they were the people of these flat countries."
+If any one asks, "Why the men of Bruges sacrificed architecture
+and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?"
+we can only answer, "Because Nature gave them no encouragement
+to do so."
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some
+of my friends in London who are quite sure of how children will
+turn out if you give them what they call "the right environment."
+It is a troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works
+positively and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two.
+A beautiful environment may make a child love beauty;
+it may make him bored with beauty; most likely the two effects
+will mix and neutralise each other. Most likely, that is,
+the environment will make hardly any difference at all.
+In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries
+that had owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country
+is hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold;
+Englishmen naval because they are islanders; Switzers free
+because they are mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way.
+Only unfortunately I am quite certain that I could make up quite
+as long a list exactly contrary in its argument point-blank
+against the influence of their geographical environment.
+Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than Scandinavians
+because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as
+bravely as Switzers because the Dutch have no mountains.
+Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many Mediterranean peoples have
+specially hated the sea because they had the nicest sea to deal with,
+the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the list for ever.
+But however long it was, two examples would certainly stand up in it
+as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the Swiss,
+who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far
+the most mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe.
+The other is that the people of Belgium, who live in a country
+like a carpet, have, by an inner energy, desired to exalt their
+towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment,
+I cannot comfort myself with the thought that the modern
+discussions about environment are of much practical value.
+But I think I will not write any more about these modern
+theories, but go on looking at the Belfry of Bruges. I would
+give them the greater attention if I were not pretty well
+convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+XIX
+
+How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making
+a bright suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not,
+I regret to say, received with the seriousness it deserved.
+I suggested that a band of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves,
+should express our sense of the pathos of the President's and
+the Republic's fate by growing Kruger beards under our chins.
+I imagined how abruptly this decoration would alter the appearance
+of Mr. John Morley; how startling it would be as it emerged from under
+the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But the younger men, my own friends,
+on whom I more particularly urged it, men whose names are in many cases
+familiar to the readers of this paper--Mr. Masterman's for instance,
+and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt, being young and beautiful,
+would do even more justice to the Kruger beard, and when walking
+down the street with it could not fail to attract attention.
+The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to the Rhodes hat.
+An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in Africa
+is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat;
+the Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing
+like a beard; we have shaved it, and it is growing again.
+The Kruger beard would represent time and the natural processes.
+You cannot grow a beard in a moment of passion.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town.
+I went down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards
+an election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for
+the Liberal candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in.
+I sometimes lie awake at night and meditate upon that mystery;
+but it must not detain us now. The rather singular incident
+which happened to me then, and which some recent events have
+recalled to me, happened while the canvassing was still going on.
+It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine, settling everywhere
+on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out into a kind
+of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if
+the bushes and the roads were human, and had kindness like men;
+as if the tree were a good giant with one wooden leg;
+as if the very line of palings were a row of good-tempered gnomes.
+On one side of the white, sprawling road a low hill or down
+showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the other the land
+tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip hills.
+The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful
+and beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon
+a low white building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows,
+evidently not inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--
+a thing more like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind.
+Made idle by the heat, I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk
+out of my pocket, began drawing aimlessly on the back door--
+drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain, and finally the ideal
+Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials did not permit
+of any delicate rendering of his noble and national expansion
+of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for man,
+and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy,
+I was frozen to the spot with terror. The black door,
+which I thought no more of than the lid of an empty box,
+began slowly to open, impelled from within by a human hand.
+And President Kruger himself came out into the sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled
+the Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes,
+there was the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger
+beard which I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under
+the features of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I
+was too much emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone
+lions with him, or Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark
+shed I cannot imagine, but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger
+in Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in
+the neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me.
+Mr. Kruger regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye,
+and then addressed me with a strong Somersetshire accent.
+A curious cold shock went through me to hear that inappropriate voice
+coming out of that familiar form. It was as if you met a Chinaman,
+with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he began to talk broad Scotch.
+But the next moment, of course, I understood the situation.
+We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the Boer
+education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot
+against our island home, the terrible President had learnt not
+only English, but all the dialects at a moment's notice to win
+over a Lancashire merchant or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier.
+No doubt, if I asked him, this stout old gentleman could
+grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk, and so on,
+like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if our plain,
+true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so penetrated
+with culture as this.
+
+. . . . .
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all
+that this strange old man gave me. When he asked me,
+dryly enough, but not without a certain steady civility
+that belongs to old-fashioned country people, what I wanted
+and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities
+of the Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became
+suddenly transfigured in the sunlight into a devil of wrath.
+It was some time before I could understand a word he said,
+but the one word that kept on recurring was the word "Kruger,"
+and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of violent terms.
+Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want him
+to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was . . . and
+here he became once more obscure. The one thing that he made
+quite clear was that he wouldn't do anything for Kruger.
+
+"But you ARE Kruger," burst from my lips, in a natural explosion
+of reasonableness. "You ARE Kruger, aren't you?"
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first
+there would be a fight, and I remembered with regret that
+the President in early life had had a hobby of killing lions.
+But really I began to think that I had been mistaken, and that it
+was not the President after all. There was a confounding sincerity
+in the anger with which he declared that he was Farmer Bowles,
+and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually and parted
+from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me with a few
+tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of his identity.
+In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an illustrated
+paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer Bowles
+were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group
+of Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant,
+were perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed
+to me like the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll,
+when he drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze
+with the blue Tory ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his
+colours everywhere. It was evening, and the warm western light was
+on the grey hair and heavy massive features of that good old man.
+I knew as one knows a fact of sense that if Spanish and German
+stockbrokers had flooded his farm or country he would
+have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an Irishman,
+but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the Boer.
+I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his
+cross against the Conservative name. Then he came out again,
+having given his vote and looking more like Kruger than ever.
+And at the same hour on the same night thousands upon thousands
+of English Krugers gave the same vote. And thus Kruger was
+pulled down and the dark-faced men in the photograph reigned
+in his stead.
+
+
+XX
+
+The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is great.
+All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks.
+At least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work
+by night (journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers,
+and such mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning)
+must often have stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown
+of battlements or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at
+daybreak to discover that it was only a haberdasher's shop with huge
+gold letters across the face of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight.
+I sat down on a bench with my back to the river, happening to
+choose such a place that a huge angle and facade of building
+jutting out from the Strand sat above me like an incubus.
+I dare say that if I took the same seat to-morrow by daylight I
+should find the impression entirely false. In sunlight the thing
+might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness it seemed
+as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have I
+had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth.
+That pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above
+and beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb.
+I had an irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I
+had to fight it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion
+but an indolent journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black,
+blind face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge
+face of a sleeping giant; the eyes were too close together,
+and gave it the suggestion of a bestial sneer. And either
+by accident of this light or of some other, I could now read
+the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything
+that I should like to pull down with my hands if I could.
+Reared by a detected robber, it is framed to be the fashionable
+and luxurious home of undetected robbers. In the house of man
+are many mansions; but there is a class of men who feel normal
+nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or in Dartmoor Gaol.
+That big black face, which was staring at me with its flaming
+eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer;
+the hour had come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again
+(I had had one wild impulse to climb up the front of the hotel
+and fall in at one of the windows), and I tried to think,
+as all decent people are thinking, what one can really do.
+And all the time that oppressive wall went up in front of me,
+and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been
+the defeated who have won. The people who were left
+worst at the end of the war were generally the people
+who were left best at the end of the whole business.
+For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the Christians.
+But they did not end in the decline of the Christians;
+they ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave
+of Moslem power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns
+of Christendom, that wave was broken, and never came on again.
+The Crusaders had saved Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem.
+The same applies to that epic of Republican war in the eighteenth
+century to which we Liberals owe our political creed.
+The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came back
+across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had
+lost its last battle; but it had gained its first object.
+It had cut a chasm. The world has never been the same since.
+No one after that has ever been able to treat the poor merely
+as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere
+stones of the street; but as stones that may sometimes fly.
+If it please God, you and I may see some of the stones
+flying again before we see death. But here I only remark
+the interesting fact that the conquered almost always conquer.
+Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds.
+The Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment;
+it deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock
+and jar the unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil;
+just as a pebble on a railway can stagger the Scotch express.
+It is enough for the great martyrs and criminals of the French revolution,
+that they have surprised for all time the secret weakness of the strong.
+They have awakened and set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever
+the coward in the hearts of kings.
+
+. . . . .
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his
+experience was not such as has been generally supposed.
+If you care to hear it I will tell you the real story of Jack
+the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the most awful thing which Jack
+first felt about the giant was that he was not a giant.
+He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and against
+its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a figure
+in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man
+was treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain.
+The man came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger,
+and at the instant when he passed the possible stature of humanity
+Jack almost screamed. The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle;
+the more he became incredible the more he became solid.
+The less one could believe in him the more plainly one could see him.
+It was unbearable that so much of the sky should be occupied
+by one human face. His eyes, which had stood out like bow windows,
+became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that could
+contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes.
+Jack's intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism
+of the face that filled the sky; his last hope was submerged,
+his five wits all still with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of dead
+honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his hand.
+He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and when
+he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a cave.
+Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant on it
+with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the hilt,
+and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant felt
+a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great hand
+for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and stared
+at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw
+him away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were
+flying from system to system through the universe of stars.
+But, as the giant had thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike
+a stone, but struck soft mire by the side of a distant river.
+There he lay insensible for several hours; but when he awoke again
+his horrible conqueror was still in sight. He was striding away
+across the void and wooded plain towards where it ended in the sea;
+and by this time he was only much higher than any of the hills.
+He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really high mountain
+grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway train.
+Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic.
+Then the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big
+blue sea, and even as it did so it altered its attitude.
+Jack, stunned and bleeding, lifted himself laboriously upon one
+elbow to stare. The giant once more caught hold of his ankle,
+wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over into the great sea
+which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all things God
+has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+XXI
+
+A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has
+always seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing
+away the veils from private life; but it seems to me to be always
+dropping diaphanous but blinding veils between men and men.
+The Yellow Press is abused for exposing facts which are private;
+I wish the Yellow Press did anything so valuable. It is exactly
+the decisive individual touches that it never gives; and a proof of this
+is that after one has met a man a million times in the newspapers it
+is always a complete shock and reversal to meet him in real life.
+The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of catching the first
+fresh fact about a man that dominates all after impressions.
+For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that he spoke with
+a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of sentiment;
+but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other
+criticisms put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out
+private personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities
+on the surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression
+of this kind which we have all felt when we met great poets
+or politicians, but which never finds its way into the newspapers.
+I mean the impression that they are much older than we thought they were.
+We connect great men with their great triumphs, which generally
+happened some years ago, and many recruits enthusiastic for the thin
+Napoleon of Marengo must have found themselves in the presence
+of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising politician
+confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of boyhood.
+It described how his "brave young voice" rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose:
+all this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once
+met a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening.
+It was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set
+an instant after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened
+and the road sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents;
+I felt that the treetops that closed above me were the fixed
+and real things, certain as the level of the sea; but that
+the solid earth was every instant failing under my feet.
+In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in splashes,
+like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky.
+Around me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every
+plain or twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns
+of every earthly and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature
+of the forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force.
+For the meaning of woods is the combination of energy with complexity.
+A forest is not in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense
+with delicacy. Unique shapes that an artist would copy or a
+philosopher watch for years if he found them in an open plain are
+here mingled and confounded; but it is not a darkness of deformity.
+It is a darkness of life; a darkness of perfection. And I began
+to think how much of the highest human obscurity is like this,
+and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell you,
+for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate;
+it is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+. . . . .
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out
+into deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the
+evening was so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a
+sunset all to itself. I went along that road according to directions
+that had been given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling
+beyond which the wood changed only faintly to a garden.
+It was as if the curious courtesy and fineness of that character
+I was to meet went out from him upon the valley; for I felt
+on all these things the finger of that quality which the old
+English called "faerie"; it is the quality which those can
+never understand who think of the past as merely brutal;
+it is an ancient elegance such as there is in trees.
+I went through the garden and saw an old man sitting by a table,
+looking smallish in his big chair. He was already an invalid,
+and his hair and beard were both white; not like snow, for snow
+is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even fierce;
+rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand,
+and I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young.
+He was the one great man of the old world whom I have met
+who was not a mere statue over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about
+the books he had written; he was far too much alive for that.
+He talked about the books he had not written. He unrolled
+a purple bundle of romances which he had never had time to sell.
+He asked me to write one of the stories for him, as he would
+have asked the milkman, if he had been talking to the milkman.
+It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort of astronomical farce.
+It was all about a man who was rushing up to the Royal Society
+with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying comet;
+and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities;
+how he lost a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling.
+That is only one of them; there were ten or twenty more.
+Another, I dimly remember, was a version of the fall of Parnell;
+the idea that a quite honest man might be secret from a pure love
+of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went out of that garden with a
+blurred sensation of the million possibilities of creative literature.
+The feeling increased as my way fell back into the wood; for a wood
+is a palace with a million corridors that cross each other everywhere.
+I really had the feeling that I had seen the creative quality;
+which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls the Old Man
+of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind my path;
+I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+XXII
+
+The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert
+that the love of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them;
+and so, perhaps, it would, if they had it. There is a very real
+thing which may be called the love of humanity; in our time it
+exists almost entirely among what are called uneducated people;
+and it does not exist at all among the people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being
+is chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday;
+that is why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances)
+than any other part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty
+train at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them;
+they all got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the
+train entirely empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is
+the definite pleasure in the immediate proximity of one's own kind.
+Only this coarse, rank, real love of men seems to be entirely
+lacking in those who propose the love of humanity as a substitute
+for all other love; honourable, rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked
+the sudden starting of that train; all the factory girls
+who could not find seats (and they must have been the majority)
+relieving their feelings by jumping up and down. Now I have never
+seen any rationalistic idealists do this. I have never seen twenty
+modern philosophers crowd into one third-class carriage for the
+mere pleasure of being together. I have never seen twenty Mr.
+McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun
+all beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches.
+But their fear is unreasonable; because trippers always
+prefer to trip together; they pack as close as they can;
+they have a suffocating passion of philanthropy.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle,
+I have no hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber.
+Before any modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist
+(I insist with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased
+when his barber tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity:
+let him love that. If he is not pleased at this, I will not accept any
+substitute in the way of interest in the Congo or the future of Japan.
+If a man cannot love his barber whom he has seen, how shall he love
+the Japanese whom he has not seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about
+the weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest.
+It is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him;
+he is blamed because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist,
+and because, being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave.
+But the only proof of such things is by example; therefore I will prove
+the excellence of the conversation of barbers by a specific case.
+Lest any one should accuse me of attempting to prove it by fictitious
+means, I beg to say quite seriously that though I forget the exact
+language employed, the following conversation between me and a human
+(I trust), living barber really took place a few days ago.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers,
+and lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out of
+the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get shaved.
+While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+"There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir.
+It seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone
+or a pole or a poker" (here I began for the first time to detect
+a sarcastic intonation) "or a shovel or a----"
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about
+the matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+"Or a button-hook," I said, "or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram
+or a piston-rod----"
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, "Or a curtain rod
+or a candle-stick, or a----"
+
+"Cow-catcher," I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic duet
+for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told me.
+He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+"The funny part of it is," he said, "that the thing isn't new at all.
+It's been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before.
+There is always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow.
+But none of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe
+myself that this will."
+
+"Why, as to that," I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying
+to put on my coat inside out, "I don't know how it may be in the case
+of you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you,
+is a trivial and materialistic thing, and in such things
+startling inventions are sometimes made. But what you say
+reminds me in some dark and dreamy fashion of something else.
+I recall it especially when you tell me, with such evident
+experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not really new.
+My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of making
+everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts off
+one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil
+of preparing a man's chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil
+of preparing something very curious to put on a man's chin.
+It would be nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody.
+It would be nicer still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ "'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+
+"Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+"In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written
+that a man shall not eat his cake and have it; and though
+all men talked until the stars were old it would still be true
+that a man who has lost his razor could not shave with it.
+But every now and then men jump up with the new something
+or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there
+is no real difference between being shaved and not being shaved.
+The difference, they say, is only a difference of degree;
+everything is evolutionary and relative. Shavedness is
+immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is a Potential Razor.
+The superstitious people of the past (they say) believed that
+a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to one's
+face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches
+us better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow
+where Shaving should be.
+
+"Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something.
+But a baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby
+he will know whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing
+up being shaved and being saved; my democratic sympathies have
+always led me to drop my 'h's.' In another moment I may suggest
+that goats represent the lost because goats have long beards.
+This is growing altogether too allegorical.
+
+"Nevertheless," I added, as I paid the bill, "I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving.
+Have you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?"
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+XXIII
+
+The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys
+takes so very much more time and trouble than anything else.
+Playing as children mean playing is the most serious thing in the world;
+and as soon as we have small duties or small sorrows we have to
+abandon to some extent so enormous and ambitious a plan of life.
+We have enough strength for politics and commerce and art and philosophy;
+we have not enough strength for play. This is a truth which every one
+will recognize who, as a child, has ever played with anything at all;
+any one who has played with bricks, any one who has played with dolls,
+any one who has played with tin soldiers. My journalistic work,
+which earns money, is not pursued with such awful persistency as that
+work which earned nothing.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow
+in twelve volumes (it would be just like you) on "The Theory
+and Practice of European Architecture," your work may be laborious,
+but it is fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work
+of a child piling one brick on the other is serious; for the simple
+reason that if your book is a bad book no one will ever be able
+ultimately and entirely to prove to you that it is a bad book.
+Whereas if his balance of bricks is a bad balance of bricks,
+it will simply tumble down. And if I know anything of children,
+he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it up again.
+Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce you
+to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you
+could help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after
+a child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play
+as idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol
+has actually become more important than the human reality which it was,
+I suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: "I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending
+to be my dolly." Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had
+been a substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute
+for a doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such
+devotion takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if
+it were really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point
+is that the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist;
+the child playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: "This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his being
+short of stores." The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey's activity was due to his being short of stores.
+Otherwise he would have stood quite still while he was chased.
+I run after Jones with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries
+to get rid of me the only possible explanation is that he has
+a very small balance at his bankers. I cannot believe that any boy
+playing at soldiers would be as idiotic as this. But then any one
+playing at anything has to be serious. Whereas, as I have only too
+good reason to know, if you are writing an article you can say anything
+that comes into your head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's
+games is, generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure
+in them; it is simply that they have no leisure for them.
+It is that they cannot afford the expenditure of toil
+and time and consideration for so grand and grave a scheme.
+I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre
+that used to be called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured;
+only that I drew and coloured the figures and scenes myself.
+Hence I was free from the degrading obligation of having to pay
+either a penny or twopence; I only had to pay a shilling a sheet
+for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad water colours.
+The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar to every one;
+it is never more than a development of the stage which Skelt
+made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I
+ever worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work
+seems too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself
+to lighter employments; such as the biographies of great men.
+The play of "St. George and the Dragon," over which I have burnt
+the midnight oil (you must colour the thing by lamplight because
+that is how it will be seen), still lacks most conspicuously,
+alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace, and also some comprehensible
+and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours.
+But it is partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble.
+If I am ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have
+enough time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I
+shall have enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play
+in them without a hitch.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need
+to learn could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered,
+it reminds us of the main principle of art, the principle which
+is in most danger of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact
+that art consists of limitation; the fact that art is limitation.
+Art does not consist in expanding things. Art consists of cutting
+things down, as I cut down with a pair of scissors my very ugly
+figures of St. George and the Dragon. Plato, who liked definite
+ideas, would like my cardboard dragon; for though the creature has
+few other artistic merits he is at least dragonish. The modern
+philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome to a sheet of
+the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the theatrical
+art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing through
+a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even at
+the Court Theatre or His Majesty's you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small
+theatre exactly is that you are looking through a small window.
+Has not every one noticed how sweet and startling any
+landscape looks when seen through an arch? This strong,
+square shape, this shutting off of everything else is not
+only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential of beauty.
+The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing
+the scale of events it can introduce much larger events.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the Day of Judgment.
+Exactly in so far as it is limited, so far it could play easily
+with falling cities or with falling stars. Meanwhile the big
+theatres are obliged to be economical because they are big.
+When we have understood this fact we shall have understood something
+of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier
+into the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia.
+In the narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room
+for Purgatory and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled
+by the British Empire. Great empires are necessarily prosaic;
+for it is beyond human power to act a great poem upon so great a scale.
+You can only represent very big ideas in very small spaces.
+My toy theatre is as philosophical as the drama of Athens.
+
+
+XXIV
+
+A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been
+long and pleasant, but--perhaps for that very reason--
+I feel that the time has come when I ought to confess
+the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time ago;
+but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse
+to reveal such dark episodes long after they have occurred.
+It has nothing to do with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League.
+That body is so offensively respectable that a newspaper,
+in describing it the other day, referred to my friend
+Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is
+not by the conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton,
+of the Rev. James Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that
+fine and virile old ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish
+(or rather, am driven by my conscience) to make this declaration.
+The crime was committed in solitude and without accomplices.
+Alone I did it. Let me, with the characteristic thirst
+of penitents to get the worst of the confession over, state it
+first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he
+has died of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper
+to whom I still owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant
+knowing that I owed him twopence. I carried it away under his
+nose, despite the fact that the nose was a decidedly Jewish one.
+I have never paid him, and it is highly improbable that I ever shall.
+How did this villainy come to occur in a life which has been,
+generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity necessary for fraud?
+The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though there
+may not be room for that.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that
+the easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy.
+The most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities.
+The reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint.
+How, for instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would
+be called a "scuttle"? If he has ever seen the word scuttle
+it has been in the Jingo Press, where the "policy of scuttle"
+is used whenever we give up something to a small Power like Liberals,
+instead of giving up everything to a great Power, like Imperialists.
+What Englishman in Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans
+call a glove a "hand-shoe." Nations name their necessities by nicknames,
+so to speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish,
+and almost affectionate names, as if they were their own children!
+But any one can argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has
+ever got as far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can
+put a sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract
+or philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations.
+They are the same, for the simple reason that they all come
+from the things that were the roots of our common civilisation.
+From Christianity, from the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church,
+or the French Revolution. "Nation," "citizen," "religion," "philosophy,"
+"authority," "the Republic," words like these are nearly the same
+in all the countries in which we travel. Restrain, therefore,
+your exuberant admiration for the young man who can argue with six
+French atheists when he first lands at Dieppe. Even I can do that.
+But very likely the same young man does not know the French for a
+shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there are three great exceptions.
+(1) In the case of countries that are not European at all, and have
+never had our civic conceptions, or the old Latin scholarship.
+I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for "citizenship"
+at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for "the Republic"
+has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of Germany,
+where, although the principle does apply to many words such as "nation"
+and "philosophy," it does not apply so generally, because Germany
+has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the purely
+German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not know
+any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed
+my crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned
+were combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German.
+I knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which
+hold our European civilisation together--one of which is "cigar."
+As it was a hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort
+of beer-garden, and ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the
+lager, and paid for it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it,
+and walked away, gazing rapturously at the royal outline of the
+Taunus mountains. After about ten minutes, I suddenly remembered
+that I had not paid for the cigar. I went back to the place of
+refreshment, and put down the money. But the proprietor also had
+forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural things in a tone
+of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said "cigar," and
+he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the money to
+wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that my
+rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular cigar,
+and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture
+that my rejection was a rejection of cigars in general,
+not of that particular article. He mistook this for the ordinary
+impatience of common men, and rushed forward, his hands
+filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing them upon me.
+In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the more
+cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars
+were brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment.
+I tried in vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact
+that I had already had the cigar. I imitated the action
+of a citizen smoking, knocking off and throwing away a cigar.
+The watchful proprietor only thought I was rehearsing
+(as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar
+he was going to give me. At last I retired baffled:
+he would not take the money and leave the cigars alone.
+So that this restaurant-keeper (in whose face a love of money
+shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and firmly refused
+to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and I took
+that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months.
+I hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth
+very gently to that unhappy man.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud,
+and the moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded
+upon abstractions. The idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed
+by physical motions at all, because it is an abstract idea.
+And civilisation obviously would be nothing without debt.
+So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific sociology
+(which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation
+is material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves
+how many of the things that make up our Society, the Law,
+or the Stocks and Shares, or the National Debt, you would be
+able to convey with your face and your ten fingers by grinning
+and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+XXV
+
+A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there
+lies a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue,
+but of eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present
+writer to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws
+and customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day.
+It is not Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some
+sympathy with the Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath,
+and that for three reasons; first, that religion is an intrinsically
+sympathetic thing; second, that I cannot conceive any religion
+worth calling a religion without a fixed and material observance;
+and third, that the particular observance of sitting still and doing
+no work is one that suits my temperament down to the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it
+does not let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him
+up when it has forced him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism
+does not forbid us to ask a man in Battersea to come and talk
+in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his getting there.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with joys,
+with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows.
+But I cannot imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences.
+Let the good Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent,
+according to his feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah
+cannot see anything particularly dignified in his servant being
+misled by the time-table, finding that the old Mecca express is
+not running, missing his connection at Bagdad, or having to wait
+three hours in a small side station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak
+thread of train-service. Now if this had been the authority
+of real English religion, I should have submitted to it at once.
+If I believed that the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram
+because he was at that moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer,
+I should think all telegrams unimportant in comparison.
+If I could believe that railway porters when relieved from their
+duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of worship,
+I should say that all lectures and everything else ought
+to give way to such a consideration. I should not complain
+if the national faith forbade me to make any appointments
+of labour or self-expression on the Sabbath. But, as it is,
+it only tells me that I may very probably keep the Sabbath
+by not keeping the appointment.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there
+was only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could
+even get within several hours or several miles of the time or place.
+I therefore went to the telephone, which is one of my
+favourite toys, and down which I have shouted many valuable,
+but prematurely arrested, monologues upon art and morals.
+I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered that one
+could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days,
+to the advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument,
+in fewer words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram,
+I ordered a taxi-cab to take me to the railway station.
+I have not a word to say in general either against telephones
+or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two of the purest and most
+poetic of the creations of modern scientific civilisation.
+Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down.
+The result of this was that when I arrived at King's Cross my
+only train was gone; there was a Sabbath calm in the station,
+a calm in the eyes of the porters, and in my breast, if calm
+at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my
+breast on first making the discovery; and it was turned
+to blinding horror when I learnt that I could not even send
+a telegram to the organisers of the meeting. To leave
+my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating;
+to leave them without any intimation was simply low.
+I reasoned with the official. I said: "Do you really mean
+to say that if my brother were dying and my mother in this place,
+I could not communicate with her?" He was a man of literal
+and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was dying.
+I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle.
+What would happen if England were invaded, or if I
+alone knew how to turn aside a comet or an earthquake.
+He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible spirit,
+but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element
+of the outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang
+up ungovernable, and I decided that I would not be a cad merely
+because some of my remote ancestors had been Calvinists.
+I would keep my appointment if I lost all my money and all my wits.
+I went out into the quiet London street, where my quiet London
+cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty morning.
+I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the London
+driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire.
+And he did.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful weather, even in
+a motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started,
+but he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate
+sense of adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--
+if we ever did. I was by no means so delicate; I bought
+a varied selection of pork-pies at a little shop that was open
+(why was that shop open?--it is all a mystery), and ate them
+as we went along. The beginning was sombre and irritating.
+I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a baby;
+with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness
+in its squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable
+bustle of democracy; but the poor parts of North London . . . well,
+perhaps I saw them wrongly under that ashen morning and on
+that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke
+the retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring.
+We were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses,
+when the grey showed golden patches and a good light began
+to glitter on everything. The cab went quicker and quicker.
+The open land whirled wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of
+being battled with and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums.
+Rather the feeling increased, because of the great difficulty
+of space and time. The faster went the car, the fiercer and thicker
+I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me.
+The tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows;
+the very trees seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving
+it by a hair's breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw
+a beech-tree by the white road stand up little and defiant.
+It grew bigger and bigger with blinding rapidity. It charged me
+like a tilting knight, seemed to hack at my head, and pass by.
+Sometimes when we went round a curve of road, the effect was yet
+more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill swung round
+to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a blazing fact;
+and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant.
+We do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek
+the nobler sort of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided,
+with evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw
+a veil. When I came back home I was called to the telephone,
+and a meek voice expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab,
+and even said something about any reasonable payment.
+"Whom can I pay for my own superb experience? What is
+the usual charge for seeing the clouds shattered by the sun?
+What is the market price of a tree blue on the sky-line
+and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for
+that windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden.
+Let me pay you for . . ." Here it was, I think, that we
+were cut off.
+
+
+XXVI
+
+The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England
+as Napoleon charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive,
+because away to the last grey line of the sea there was only the look
+of galloping squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose.
+The sea came on like cavalry, and when it touched the shore it
+opened the blazing eyes and deafening tongues of the artillery.
+I saw the worst assault at night on a seaside parade where the sea
+smote on the doors of England with the hammers of earthquake,
+and a white smoke went up into the black heavens. There one
+could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave.
+But the horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness.
+It lifts its load of water laboriously: in that style at once
+slow and slippery in which a Titan might lift a load of rock
+and then let it slip at last to be shattered into shock of dust.
+In front of me that night the waves were not like water:
+they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose first as if it
+did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to attack the stars.
+For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a tower; then it went
+a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that might some day fall.
+When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew up.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across
+the land one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can
+lean up against like a wall. One expected anything to be blown
+out of shape at any instant; the lamp-post to be snapped
+like a green stalk, the tree to be whirled away like a straw.
+I myself should certainly have been blown out of shape if I had
+possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked along the edge
+of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea and could
+not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised
+to find that as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled
+with the ceaseless cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino
+or place of entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing
+against the cosmic uproar. I do not know what band it was.
+Judging from the boisterous British Imperialism of most
+of the airs it played, I should think it was a German band.
+But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came quite
+close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as "Tommy Atkins" and "You Can Depend on Young Australia,"
+and many others of which I do not know the words, but I should
+think they would be "John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,"
+or that fine though unwritten poem, "Wait till the Bull Dog
+gets a bite of you." Now, I for one detest Imperialism,
+but I have a great deal of sympathy with Jingoism.
+And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken
+and innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature
+that it made, if I may so put it, two tunes in my mind.
+It is so obvious and so jolly to be optimistic about England,
+especially when you are an optimist--and an Englishman.
+But through all that glorious brass came the voice
+of the invasion, the undertone of that awful sea.
+I did a foolish thing. As I could not express my meaning
+in an article, I tried to express it in a poem--a bad one.
+You can call it what you like. It might be called "Doubt,"
+or "Brighton." It might be called "The Patriot," or yet
+again "The German Band." I would call it "The Two Voices,"
+but that title has been taken for a grossly inferior poem.
+This is how it began--
+
+ "They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ "(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)"
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there
+is an English country that the Imperialists have never found.
+The British Empire may annex what it likes, it will never annex England.
+It has not even discovered the island, let alone conquered it.
+I took up the two tunes again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ "I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ "(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)"
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England.
+It is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely
+and at random--
+
+ "I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ "(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)"
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute;
+and as for the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+XXVII
+
+Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the keeping
+off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at
+a tree, practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of
+knife-throwing by which men murder each other in Stevenson's romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something
+about their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that
+reminded me, I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy.
+They asked what the knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it,
+what my address was, trade, religion, opinions on the Japanese war,
+name of favourite cat, and so on. They also said I was damaging the tree;
+which was, I am sorry to say, not true, because I could not hit it.
+The peculiar philosophical importance, however, of the incident was this.
+After some half-hour's animated conversation, the exhibition of
+an envelope, an unfinished poem, which was read with great care, and,
+I trust, with some profit, and one or two other subtle detective strokes,
+the elder of the two knights became convinced that I really was what I
+professed to be, that I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS
+(this was the real stroke; they were shaken with a terror common
+to all tyrants), that I lived in a particular place as stated,
+and that I was stopping with particular people in Yorkshire,
+who happened to be wealthy and well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary
+at last that he ended up by representing himself as a reader
+of my work. And when that was said, everything was settled.
+They acquitted me and let me pass.
+
+"But," I said, "what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue
+of that Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like
+knight-errants. You, the higher humanitarians, are not deceived
+by the seeming stillness of the green things, a stillness like
+the stillness of the cataract, a headlong and crashing silence.
+You know that a tree is but a creature tied to the ground by one leg.
+You will not let assassins with their Swedish daggers shed the green
+blood of such a being. But if so, why am I not in custody;
+where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your persons,
+my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have just
+convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank
+of Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether
+I have been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none
+the less damaged even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it
+was wounded by a gentleman connected with the Liberal press.
+Wounds in the bark do not more rapidly close up because they are
+inflicted by people who are stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley.
+That tree, the ruin of its former self, the wreck of what was once
+a giant of the forest, now splintered and laid low by the brute
+superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy, constable, cannot be wiped
+out even by stopping for several months more with some wealthy person.
+It is incredible that you have no legal claim to arrest
+even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?"
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood,
+for the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came.
+It is very possible, of course, that they were fairies.
+In that case the somewhat illogical character of their view
+of crime, law, and personal responsibility would find a bright
+and elfish explanation; perhaps if I had lingered in the glade
+till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny policemen
+dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass.
+But taking the bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen,
+I find myself in a certain difficulty. I was certainly
+accused of something which was either an offence or was not.
+I was let off because I proved I was a guest at a big house.
+The inference seems painfully clear; either it is not
+a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood,
+or else it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man.
+Suppose a very poor person, poorer even than a journalist,
+a navvy or unskilled labourer, tramping in search of work,
+often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps, failing in his rent.
+Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green gaiety
+of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees
+and could give no description of a dwelling-place except
+that he had been fired out of the last. As I walked home
+through a cloudy and purple twilight I wondered how he would
+have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical;
+there is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil
+in the fact that people always brag about their vices; it is when they
+begin to brag about their virtues that they become insufferable.
+But there is this to be said, that illogicality in your constitution
+or your legal methods may become very dangerous if there happens to be
+some great national vice or national temptation which many take advantage
+of the chaos. Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours;
+a temperate man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the
+Chiltern Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally
+to keep down some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is.
+Obviously this kind of illogicality does not matter very much,
+for the simple reason that there is no great temptation to take
+advantage of it. Men retiring from Parliament do not have any
+furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills. But if there were
+a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable politicians taking
+leave of public life would desire to do this (if, for instance,
+there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on saying
+that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day
+and taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality
+would matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence.
+It is only the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry.
+And snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil,
+that it is rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts
+and houses. But it is our great English vice; to be watched
+more fiercely than small-pox. If a man wished to hear the worst
+and wickedest thing in England summed up in casual English words,
+he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald quarrelling.
+He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working man,
+when he wishes to praise any one, calls him "a gentleman."
+It never occurs to him that he might as well call him "a marquis,"
+or "a privy councillor"--that he is simply naming a rank or class,
+not a phrase for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a
+shameful admiration, must, and, I think, does, constantly come
+in and distort and poison our police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest,
+is increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people,
+without this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+XXVIII
+
+The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his
+first feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town
+or village; when he looks again he sees that this comparative
+absence of the picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain,
+precipitous frontage of the houses standing up hard and flat
+out of the street like the cardboard houses in a pantomime--
+a hard angularity allied perhaps to the harshness of French logic.
+When he looks a third time he sees quite simply that it is all because
+the houses have no front gardens. The vague English spirit loves to have
+the entrance to its house softened by bushes and broken by steps.
+It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges half in the house
+and half out of it; a green room in a double sense. The Frenchman
+desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting places, for the
+street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's
+front garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains.
+The street is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street.
+It is his dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his
+British Museum, for the statues and monuments in French streets are not,
+as with us, of the worst, but of the best, art of the country,
+and they are often actually as historical as the Pyramids.
+The street again is the Frenchman's Parliament, for France has
+never taken its Chamber of Deputies so seriously as we take our House
+of Commons, and the quibbles of mere elected nonentities in an official
+room seem feeble to a people whose fathers have heard the voice
+of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open heaven, or Victor Hugo
+shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the second Republic.
+And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in the street
+so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so that
+the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated
+gentleman embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship.
+But in Paris a lamp-post is a tragic thing. For we think
+of tyrants hanged on it, and of an end of the world. There is,
+or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris called LA LANTERNE.
+How funny it would be if there were a Progressive paper in England
+called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the Frenchman is the man
+in the street; that he can dine in the street, and die in the street.
+And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going to bed in the street,
+I shall say that he is still true to the genius of his civilisation.
+All that is good and all that is evil in France is alike connected
+with this open-air element. French democracy and French indecency
+are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a cafe, a public-house is a private house.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through
+the mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort.
+First of all, it lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany,
+and boundaries are the most beautiful things in the world.
+To love anything is to love its boundaries; thus children will always
+play on the edge of anything. They build castles on the edge
+of the sea, and can only be restrained by public proclamation
+and private violence from walking on the edge of the grass.
+For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come
+to the beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very margin
+of Germany, and although there were many German touches in the place--
+German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical barmaids
+dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet the fixed
+French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks of something else.
+All day long and all night long troops of dusty, swarthy, scornful little
+soldiers went plodding through the streets with an air of stubborn
+disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised you, but French
+soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even more than you.
+It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation which has made
+it good at war and science and other things in which what is necessary
+is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the civilians
+alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of head
+which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call
+a bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call
+it a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen
+have been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art
+of the French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of
+the most typical and powerful of the public monuments of France.
+From the cafe table at which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town
+on which hangs the high and flat-faced citadel, pierced with
+many windows, and warmed in the evening light. On the steep
+hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself as large as a hill.
+It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic impression.
+No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common statue;
+no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises,
+shaking the world. The face of the lion has something of the bold
+conventionality of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left
+like a shapeless cloud of tempest, as if it might literally
+be said of him that God had clothed his neck with thunder.
+Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and in some
+sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken
+by the Germans through all the terrible year, but only laid
+down its arms at last at the command of its own Government.
+But the spirit of it has been in this land from the beginning--
+the spirit of something defiant and almost defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern battle
+of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the last
+sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at bay,
+the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+XXIX
+
+Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris
+and its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure;
+but it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of
+roses is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others,
+but quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion,
+they are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality.
+For the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort
+which charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts;
+they are torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life
+with the same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence.
+The enemies of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay
+which does not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which
+the Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself,
+it made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is
+the same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth.
+The new realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain.
+Its indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an
+everlasting revolution. It has none of the things which make good
+Frenchmen love Paris; it has only the things which make unspeakable
+Englishmen love it. It has the part which is cosmopolitan--
+and narrows; not the part which is Parisian--and universal.
+You can find there (as commonly happens in modern centres)
+the worst things of all nations--the DAILY MAIL from England,
+the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of France,
+and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and,
+above all, no French tradition of fighting for an idea.
+Though all the boulevards look like Parisian boulevards,
+though all the shops look like Parisian shops, you cannot look
+at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the full
+distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters
+like Clemenceau and Deroulede.
+
+. . . . .
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I began
+to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again; and I
+had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of the city.
+In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little man with a
+black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy whiskers,
+like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And about the time
+that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic grew thinner,
+and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were saying.
+Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy to follow,
+because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long words
+because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: "It must that we have the Progress."
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying:
+"It must also that we have the Consolidation International."
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened
+with some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it.
+One of the Belgians was a Little Belgian, as we speak
+of a Little Englander. The other was a Belgian Imperialist,
+for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be altogether
+a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire.
+Being a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being
+an empire only means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers
+was the Imperialist, and he was saying: "The science, behold there
+the new guide of humanity."
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: "It does not suffice to
+have progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment
+of the human justice."
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard in
+England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on
+the march. All the world goes to make itself instructed.
+It must that the more instructed enlighten the less instructed.
+Eh, well then, the European must impose upon the savage the science
+and the light. Also (apparently) he must impose himself on
+the savage while he is about it. To-day one travelled quickly.
+The science had changed all. For our fathers, they were
+religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing;
+all the lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves.
+Soon there would not be but the great Empires and confederations,
+guided by the science, always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with
+the sentiment for human justice had "la parole" off him in a flash.
+Without doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments,
+the ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself
+towards Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation,
+what were they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the
+barbarism? The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had
+passed all that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all
+human souls with the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was
+become a spirit; the wings pushed. . . .
+
+. . . . .
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it
+was almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent complete
+alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven knows where.
+I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city.
+On one side of the road was one of those small, thin woods
+which are common in all countries, but of which, by a coincidence,
+the mystical painters of Flanders were very fond. The night was
+closing in with cloudy purple and grey; there was one ribbon of silver,
+the last rag of the sunset. Through the wood went one little path,
+and somehow it suggested that it might lead to some sign of life--
+there was no other sign of life on the horizon. I went along it,
+and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight of all those tiny trees.
+There is something subtle and bewildering about that sort of frail
+and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems like a bodily barrier;
+but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a spiritual barrier.
+It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could not pass a phantom.
+When I had well lost the last gleam of the high road a curious
+and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly felt something
+much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of humanity:
+inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--
+any men; and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe.
+And at last, when I had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw
+a light too near the earth to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door
+of which was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse,
+who seemed to prefer to eat with his head inside the sitting-room.
+I got past him, and found he was being fed by a young man
+who was sitting down and drinking beer inside, and who saluted
+me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange tongue.
+The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I
+traced at length as belonging to about six small children.
+Their father was still working in the fields, but their mother
+rose when I entered. She smiled, but she and all the rest
+spoke some rude language, Flamand, I suppose; so that we
+had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched me beer,
+and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men
+hitting each other with swords, it pleased them very much.
+Then I gave a Belgian penny to each child, for as I said on chance
+in French, "It must be that we have the economic equality."
+But they had never heard of economic equality, while all
+Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality, though it
+is true that they haven't got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying,
+one that Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that
+Humanity was now pushing the wings of the purely intellectual.
+But for me Humanity was hooked on to an accidental picture.
+I thought of a low and lonely house in the flats, behind a veil
+or film of slight trees, a man breaking the ground as men have
+broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse champing
+his food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+XXX
+
+The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that
+in a few hours I should be in England, my eye fell upon one
+of the details of Gothic carving of which Flanders is full.
+I do not know whether the thing is old, though it was certainly
+knocked about and indecipherable, but at least it was certainly
+in the style and tradition of the early Middle Ages.
+It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say
+twisting themselves) to certain primary employments.
+Some seemed to be sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think,
+were reaping; others were energetically pouring something
+into something else. This is entirely characteristic of
+the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth century,
+perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history.
+The great Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes
+doing nothing. Splendid and philosophic as their composure
+is there is always about it something that marks the master
+of many slaves. But if there was one thing the early
+mediaevals liked it was representing people doing something--
+hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes,
+or making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. "Quicquid agunt
+homines, votum, timor, ira voluptas." (I quote from memory.)
+The Middle Ages is full of that spirit in all its monuments and
+manuscripts. Chaucer retains it in his jolly insistence on
+everybody's type of trade and toil. It was the earliest and
+youngest resurrection of Europe, the time when social order was
+strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive; the time when
+religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been exasperated.
+For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic carving is
+different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often reining
+their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever
+at that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving
+seems actually a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone.
+Sometimes one cannot help feeling that the groups actually
+move and mix, and the whole front of a great cathedral has
+the hum of a huge hive.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity
+of which I could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads
+had very curious heads, and it seemed to me that they had their
+mouths open. Whether or no this really meant anything or was
+an accident of nascent art I do not know; but in the course
+of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that singing was
+connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes.
+I was still thinking about this small problem when I walked
+along the pier at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering
+a measured shout as they laboured, and I remembered that sailors
+still sing in chorus while they work, and even sing different
+songs according to what part of their work they are doing.
+And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was over, the sight
+of men working in the English fields reminded me again that there
+are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural routines.
+And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be
+quite unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry.
+How did people come to chant rude poems while pulling certain
+ropes or gathering certain fruit, and why did nobody do
+anything of the kind while producing any of the modern things?
+Why is a modern newspaper never printed by people singing in chorus?
+Why do shopmen seldom, if ever, sing?
+
+. . . . .
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all
+the separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there
+not songs for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank?
+As the train from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens,
+I tried to write a few songs suitable for commercial gentlemen.
+Thus, the work of bank clerks when casting up columns might begin
+with a thundering chorus in praise of Simple Addition.
+
+"Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er.
+Hear the Stars of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.'
+Though the creeds and realms are reeling, though the sophists roar,
+Though we weep and pawn our watches, Two and Two are Four."
+
+"There's a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager's
+a crank and the Secretary drank,
+ and the Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+Stand close: there is a run On the Bank. Of our ship, our royal one,
+let the ringing legend run,
+ that she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank."
+
+. . . . .
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine
+who actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions
+in rhyme to him for use among his colleagues. But he was not
+very hopeful about the matter. It was not (he assured me)
+that he underrated the verses, or in any sense lamented their
+lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an indefinable
+something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks.
+And I think he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious.
+I may observe here that I think there must be some mistake in
+the calculations of the Socialists. They put down all our distress,
+not to a moral tone, but to the chaos of private enterprise.
+Now, banks are private; but post-offices are Socialistic:
+therefore I naturally expected that the post-office would fall into
+the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of my surprise when the
+lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing) dismissed the
+idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done. She
+seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the
+verses themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse
+of the Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+"O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+"Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully
+certain it seemed that the most important and typical modern
+things could not be done with a chorus. One could not,
+for instance, be a great financier and sing; because the
+essence of being a great financier is that you keep quiet.
+You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being
+a public man is that you do nearly everything in private.
+Nobody would imagine a chorus of money-lenders. Every one
+knows the story of the solicitors' corps of volunteers who,
+when the Colonel on the battlefield cried "Charge!" all said
+simultaneously, "Six-and-eightpence." Men can sing while
+charging in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at
+the end of my reflections I had really got no further than
+the sub-conscious feeling of my friend the bank-clerk--that
+there is something spiritually suffocating about our life;
+not about our laws merely, but about our life. Bank-clerks
+are without songs, not because they are poor, but because
+they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards
+I passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which
+was shaken with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own
+tongue. THEY were singing anyhow; and I had for an instant
+a fancy I had often had before: that with us the super-human
+is the only place where you can find the human. Human nature
+is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+XXXI
+
+The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday,
+a friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded
+with half-packed luggage.
+
+"You seem to be off on your travels," he said. "Where are you going?"
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, "To Battersea."
+
+"The wit of your remark," he said, "wholly escapes me."
+
+"I am going to Battersea," I repeated, "to Battersea via Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea."
+
+"I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you," said my friend,
+with an air of intellectual comparison, "that this is Battersea?"
+
+"It is quite unnecessary," I said, "and it is spiritually untrue.
+I cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or
+any England. I cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair:
+because a cloud of sleep and custom has come across my eyes.
+The only way to get back to them is to go somewhere else; and that
+is the real object of travel and the real pleasure of holidays.
+Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see France? Do you suppose
+that I go to Germany in order to see Germany? I shall enjoy them both;
+but it is not them that I am seeking. I am seeking Battersea.
+The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land;
+it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land.
+Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and heavy,
+and that if you utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your head.
+I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical.
+It is not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go
+to England is to go away from it."
+
+But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back
+to England, I was startled to find that I had told the exact truth.
+England did break on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old.
+To land at Dover is the right way to approach England (most things
+that are hackneyed are right), for then you see first the full,
+soft gardens of Kent, which are, perhaps, an exaggeration,
+but still a typical exaggeration, of the rich rusticity of England.
+As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with whom I had fallen
+into conversation felt the same freshness, though for another cause.
+She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm
+in that simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans,
+who are the most idealistic people in the whole world.
+Their only danger is that the idealist can easily become the idolator.
+And the American has become so idealistic that he even idealises money.
+But (to quote a very able writer of American short stories)
+that is another story.
+
+"I have never been in England before," said the American lady,
+"yet it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it
+for a long time."
+
+"So you have," I said; "you have been away for three hundred years."
+
+"What a lot of ivy you have," she said. "It covers the churches
+and it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it
+grow like that."
+
+"I am interested to hear it," I replied, "for I am making a little
+list of all the things that are really better in England.
+Even a month on the Continent, combined with intelligence,
+will teach you that there are many things that are better abroad.
+All the things that the DAILY MAIL calls English are better abroad.
+But there are things entirely English and entirely good.
+Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front gardens,
+and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom cabs,
+and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman
+or a German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a
+light bursts upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of
+Mrs. Gallup and the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the
+matter of a capital letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept
+everything; bacon did write Shakespeare."
+
+"I cannot look at anything but the ivy," she said,
+"it looks so comfortable."
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many
+weeks an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour
+in which he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved
+because it represented something in the nature of permanent public
+opinion of England, above the ebb and flow of the parties.
+Now Mr. Balfour is a perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his
+own point of view, thinks long and seriously about the public needs,
+and he is, moreover, a man of entirely exceptionable intellectual power.
+But alas, in spite of all this, when I had read that speech I
+thought with a heavy heart that there was one more thing that I had
+to add to the list of the specially English things, such as kippers
+and cricket; I had to add the specially English kind of humbug.
+In France things are attacked and defended for what they are.
+The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended
+because it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican.
+But here is the ablest of English politicians consoling everybody
+by telling them that the House of Lords is not really the House
+of Lords, but something quite different, that the foolish accidental
+peers whom he meets every night are in some mysterious way experts
+upon the psychology of the democracy; that if you want to know
+what the very poor want you must ask the very rich, and that if you
+want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it at Hatfield.
+If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were a logical
+French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an English
+politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing that
+all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the strong
+English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts.
+In a cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly
+all the Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery.
+He knows, and (as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament
+knows the very names of the peers who have purchased their peerages.
+But the glamour of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself
+and reassuring others, is too strong for this original knowledge;
+at last it fades from him, and he sincerely and earnestly
+calls on Englishmen to join with him in admiring an august and
+public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten that the Senate
+really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+"Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick," said the American lady,
+"it seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical
+thing in England."
+
+"It is very beautiful," I said, "and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England,
+wrote one of his rare poems about the beauty of ivy.
+Yes, by all means let us admire the ivy, so deep, so warm,
+so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque tenderness.
+Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree."
+
+
+XXXII
+
+The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was
+a train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it.
+And while I was running along the train (amid general admiration)
+I noticed that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of
+carriages marked "Engaged." On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages
+was pasted the little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows
+were big bland men staring out in the conscious pride of possession.
+Their bodies seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more
+than usual placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor
+reasons that it was the opposite direction and the wrong day.
+It could hardly be the King. It could hardly be the French President.
+For, though these distinguished persons naturally like to be private
+for three hours, they are at least public for three minutes.
+A crowd can gather to see them step into the train; and there was no
+crowd here, or any police ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train
+than a bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious
+and delicate than the King's own suite? Who were these that
+were larger than a mob, yet more mysterious than a monarch?
+Was it possible that instead of our Royal House visiting the Tsar,
+he was really visiting us? Or does the House of Lords
+have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge.
+Then the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them
+got out the distinguished holders of the engaged seats.
+They were all dressed decorously in one colour; they had neatly
+cropped hair; and they were chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our
+eyes met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt,
+a native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going.
+His mouth twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said:
+"I don't s'pose they're goin' on an 'oliday at the seaside with little
+spades and pails." I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein
+of literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down
+to Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge,
+and had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when
+we had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea.
+I knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: "Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it."
+And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of
+the English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense
+of pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out.
+For every practical purpose of a political state, for every practical
+purpose of a tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted.
+At a tea-party it is equally obvious that he that exalteth
+himself must be abased, if possible without bodily violence.
+Now people talk of democracy as being coarse and turbulent:
+it is a self-evident error in mere history. Aristocracy is the thing
+that is always coarse and turbulent: for it means appealing to the
+self-confident people. Democracy means appealing to the different
+people. Democracy means getting those people to vote who would never
+have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian ethics) the
+precise people who ought to govern are the people who have not the
+cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my friend
+in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument about crime
+and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything:
+as if one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible.
+This mere belief in bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental;
+it is simply snobbish. For if comfort gives men virtue,
+the comfortable classes ought to be virtuous--which is absurd.
+Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and more watery
+type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who says,
+with a sort of splutter, "Flog the brutes!" or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity "what he would do" with a certain man--
+always supposing the man's hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak
+and unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental
+humanitarian and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears
+in the modern babel. Yet you very rarely meet either of them
+in a train. You never meet anyone else in a controversy.
+The man you meet in a train is like this man that I met:
+he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually doubtful.
+So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could
+be "done" to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it
+would be if nothing need be done. But something must be done.
+"I s'pose we 'ave to do it." In short, he is simply a sane man,
+and of a sane man there is only one safe definition. He is a man
+who can have tragedy in his heart and comedy in his head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem
+of the proper treatment of criminals is that both parties
+discuss the matter without any direct human feeling.
+The denouncers of wrong are as cold as the organisers of wrong.
+Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging
+arranged in our modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its
+scientific paraphernalia, the photographing, the medical attendance,
+prove that it goes to the last foul limit of the boot and rack.
+The cat is simply the rack without any of its intellectual reasons.
+Holding this view strongly, I open the ordinary humanitarian books or
+papers and I find a phrase like this, "The lash is a relic of barbarism."
+So is the plough. So is the fishing net. So is the horn or
+the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an inexpressibly feeble
+phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of barbarism!
+It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow,
+and we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion.
+There is nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism.
+Man is a relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is simply
+a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called a relic
+of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate when
+everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was detailed
+exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous sixteenth
+century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years before the
+Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this day. This is,
+first and last, the frightful thing we must remember. In so far as we
+grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense whatever) naturally
+moving away from torture. We may be moving towards torture. We must know
+what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous secret cruelty which
+has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields.
+They have taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they
+have done with them.
+
+
+XXXIII
+
+The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not
+think so; he did not think so because he himself was even more
+modern than the railway station. He did not think so because
+he was himself feverish, irritable, and snorting like an engine.
+He could not value the ancient silence of the railway station.
+
+"In a railway station," he said, "you are in a hurry,
+and therefore, miserable"; but you need not be either unless
+you are as modern as Ruskin. The true philosopher does not
+think of coming just in time for his train except as a bet
+or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be
+late for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway
+station much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral.
+It has many of the characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building;
+it has vast arches, void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all,
+it has recurrence or ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration
+of water and fire the two prime elements of all human ceremonial.
+Lastly, a station resembles the old religions rather than the new
+religions in this point, that people go there. In connection
+with this it should also be remembered that all popular places,
+all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain the best
+routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or machines
+used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people.
+Ruskin could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the
+Underground Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations.
+The great palaces of pleasure which the rich build in London all have
+brazen and vulgar names. Their names are either snobbish, like the
+Hotel Cecil, or (worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole.
+But when I go in a third-class carriage from the nearest circle station
+to Battersea to the nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names
+of the stations are one long litany of solemn and saintly memories.
+Leaving Victoria I come to a park belonging especially to St. James
+the Apostle; thence I go to Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes
+to the awful Abbey; Charing Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom;
+the next station is called a Temple; and Blackfriars remembers
+the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million
+feet of the crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear
+down old things by sheer walking. But the educated kick them
+down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty
+railway station, where I have no business of any kind.
+I have extracted a vast number of chocolates from automatic machines;
+I have obtained cigarettes, toffee, scent, and other things
+that I dislike by the same machinery; I have weighed myself,
+with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential
+antiquity and permanence, is still in possession of my mind.
+I wander up to the bookstall, and my faith survives even
+the wild spectacle of modern literature and journalism.
+Even in the crudest and most clamorous aspects of the newspaper
+world I still prefer the popular to the proud and fastidious.
+If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and taking
+in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL.
+Even mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so
+irritating as mere meanness preached in a big and solemn way.
+People buy the DAILY MAIL, but they do not believe in it.
+They do believe in the TIMES, and (apparently) they do not buy it.
+But the more the output of paper upon the modern world is
+actually studied, the more it will be found to be in all its
+essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur
+and historic allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library.
+The novelty is all superficial; the tradition is all interior
+and profound. The DAILY MAIL has new editions, but never a new idea.
+Everything in a newspaper that is not the old human love
+of altar or fatherland is the old human love of gossip.
+Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church
+struck by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem
+to realise that this old barbaric history is the same as new
+democratic journalism. It is not that the savage chronicle has
+disappeared. It is merely that the savage chronicle now appears
+every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me.
+On the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, "Get On
+or Get Out." The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden
+revolt and reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty;
+it reminded me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly
+idiotic thing, a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing
+anybody in anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful
+person in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being
+the most successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men.
+When I saw those words the silence and sanctity of the railway station
+were for the moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate
+something anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate,
+means the most disgusting individualism of this individualistic world.
+In the fury of my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book,
+thereby ensuring that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it
+prepared to find some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be
+an exception to the general silence and sanctity of the railway station.
+I was prepared to find something in the book that was as infamous
+as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding
+to the furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover.
+After reading it carefully I could not discover whether
+I was really to get on or to get out; but I had a vague
+feeling that I should prefer to get out. A considerable part
+of the book, particularly towards the end, was concerned
+with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not
+discover in any way how the details of his life given here were
+supposed to help a person aiming at success. One anecdote described
+how Napoleon always wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose
+the moral is: always wipe your pen on your knee-breeches, and you
+will win the battle of Wagram. Another story told that he let loose
+a gazelle among the ladies of his Court. Clearly the brutal practical
+inference is--loose a gazelle among the ladies of your acquaintance,
+and you will be Emperor of the French. Get on with a gazelle or get
+out. The book entirely reconciled me to the soft twilight of the
+station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a symbolic division
+which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are vertebrates;
+they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans;
+their hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside.
+But the softness is there; everything in this twilight
+temple is soft.
+
+
+XXXIV
+
+The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element
+of truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned,
+such as meeting President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab.
+What I have now to relate really happened; yet there was no
+element in it of practical politics or of personal danger.
+It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with another man.
+But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible thing
+that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long
+ago that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue,
+only of its main questions and answers; but there is one sentence
+in it for which I can answer absolutely and word for word.
+It was a sentence so awful that I could not forget it if I would.
+It was the last sentence spoken; and it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school.
+An art school is different from almost all other schools or
+colleges in this respect: that, being of new and crude creation
+and of lax discipline, it presents a specially strong contrast
+between the industrious and the idle. People at an art school
+either do an atrocious amount of work or do no work at all.
+I belonged, along with other charming people, to the latter class;
+and this threw me often into the society of men who were very
+different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied;
+I was engaged about that time in discovering, to my own
+extreme and lasting astonishment, that I was not an atheist.
+But there were others also at loose ends who were engaged in
+discovering what Carlyle called (I think with needless delicacy)
+the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are
+two very curious things which the critic of human life may observe.
+The first is the fact that there is one real difference between men
+and women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk
+in threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do)
+three young cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk
+together every day you generally find that one of the three cads and
+idiots is (for some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot.
+In these small groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is
+almost always one man who seems to have condescended to his company;
+one man who, while he can talk a foul triviality with his fellows,
+can also talk politics with a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he
+would talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours
+of the night he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even
+in speculation. He was a man with a long, ironical face, and close
+and red hair; he was by class a gentleman, and could walk like one,
+but preferred, for some reason, to walk like a groom carrying two
+pails. He looked like a sort of Super-jockey; as if some archangel
+had gone on the Turf. And I shall never forget the half-hour in
+which he and I argued about real things for the first and the last
+time.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school
+was a part ran a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think,
+than those that lead up to St. Paul's Cathedral. On a black
+wintry evening he and I were wandering on these cold heights,
+which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the stars.
+The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning
+and blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning
+something in the grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went
+whirling past us like a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark.
+Above us also it was gloom; but if one stared long enough
+at that upper darkness, one saw vertical stripes of grey
+in the black and then became conscious of the colossal facade
+of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said
+it, I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it
+I knew it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and
+full that I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+"I am becoming orthodox," I said, "because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than a
+crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches
+piracy disinterestedly and without an adequate salary.
+A Free Lover is worse than a profligate. For a profligate is
+serious and reckless even in his shortest love; while a Free Lover
+is cautious and irresponsible even in his longest devotion.
+I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous."
+
+"You mean dangerous to morality," he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. "I expect you are right. But why do you care about morality?"
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had
+a trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light
+of the bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights.
+His long chin and high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath;
+so that he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit.
+I had an unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness;
+and even as I paused a burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+"Aren't those sparks splendid?" I said.
+
+"Yes," he replied.
+
+"That is all that I ask you to admit," said I. "Give me
+those few red specks and I will deduce Christian morality.
+Once I thought like you, that one's pleasure in a flying
+spark was a thing that could come and go with that spark.
+Once I thought that the delight was as free as the fire.
+Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space.
+But now I know that the red star is only on the apex
+of an invisible pyramid of virtues. That red fire is only
+the flower on a stalk of living habits, which you cannot see.
+Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you' for a bun
+are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you
+were humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now
+enjoy any fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them
+being red because you were told about the blood of the martyrs;
+you only like them being bright because brightness is a glory.
+That flame flowered out of virtues, and it will fade with virtues.
+Seduce a woman, and that spark will be less bright.
+Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be really bad,
+and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper."
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both.
+He only said, "But shall I not find in evil a life of its own?
+Granted that for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out:
+will not the expanding pleasure of ruin . . ."
+
+"Do you see that fire ?" I asked. "If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are."
+
+"Perhaps," he said, in his tired, fair way. "Only what you call
+evil I call good."
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted
+the steps swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find
+my hat in the low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his
+voice again, but the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled:
+then I heard the voice of one of the vilest of his associates saying,
+"Nobody can possibly know." And then I heard those two or three
+words which I remember in every syllable and cannot forget.
+I heard the Diabolist say, "I tell you I have done everything else.
+If I do that I shan't know the difference between right and wrong."
+I rushed out without daring to pause; and as I passed the fire I
+did not know whether it was hell or the furious love of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think,
+that he committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure,
+not with tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went;
+but I have never known, or even dared to think, what was that place
+at which he stopped and refrained.
+
+
+XXXV
+
+A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is
+really quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven
+or Fairyland or whatever I called it, was immediately behind my
+own back, and that this was why I could never manage to see it,
+however often I twisted and turned to take it by surprise.
+I had a notion of a man perpetually spinning round on one foot
+like a teetotum in the effort to find that world behind his back
+which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is why the world
+goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look over
+its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it,
+yet without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive
+of that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is
+in some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned.
+Always the Kingdom of Heaven is "At Hand"; and Looking-glass Land is
+only through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished
+if the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in
+which all the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I
+turned one corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp;
+I should not be surprised if I turned a third corner and found
+myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day
+at something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street
+and found myself in England.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation.
+In the darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there
+is one thing that should always be remembered about the very
+nature of our country. It may be shortly stated by saying that
+England is not such a fool as it looks. The types of England,
+the externals of England, always misrepresent the country.
+England is an oligarchical country, and it prefers that its
+oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners.
+Our countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher
+places of the national life. It may be a strange sight to see
+the blind leading the blind; but England provides a stranger.
+England shows us the blind leading the people who can see.
+And this again is an under-statement of the case. For the English
+political aristocrats not only speak worse than many other people;
+they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance of statesmen is
+like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected thing.
+If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you will
+be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things.
+It makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently
+intimate with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life
+in Parliament to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself;
+he votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one.
+A man ought to vote with the whole of himself as he worships
+or gets married. A man ought to vote with his head and heart,
+his soul and stomach, his eye for faces and his ear for music;
+also (when sufficiently provoked) with his hands and feet.
+If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of it
+should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs,
+they should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross.
+But as it is, the difficulty with English democracy at all
+elections is that it is something less than itself. The question
+is not so much whether only a minority of the electorate votes.
+The point is that only a minority of the voter votes.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak
+I found this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle
+class which I had imagined had almost vanished from the world.
+It seemed to me that all the main representatives of the middle
+class had gone off in one direction or in the other; they had either
+set out in pursuit of the Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit
+of the Simple Life. I cannot say which I dislike more myself;
+the people in question are welcome to have either of them, or, as is
+more likely, to have both, in hideous alternations of disease and cure.
+But all the prominent men who plainly represent the middle class have
+adopted either the single eye-glass of Mr Chamberlain or the single
+eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads.
+It was serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it
+committed the solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that
+this old earnest political England had practically disappeared.
+And as I say, I took one turn out of Fleet Street and I found
+a room full of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The club
+was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne'er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all
+the hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth
+century. The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet
+there was not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I
+often have in listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion.
+The Toryism of this club was like the Toryism of Johnson,
+a Toryism that could use humour and appealed to humanity.
+The democracy of this club was like the democracy of Wilkes,
+a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight duels;
+a democracy that can face things out and endure slander;
+the democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers.
+Each man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as
+well as he could from sheer fury against the other man.
+This is the greatest of our modern descents, that nowadays a man
+does not become more rhetorical as he becomes more sincere.
+An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got really and honestly furious,
+looked for big words with which to crush his adversary.
+The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech
+the rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening
+to which nobody listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate,
+or one of the harder kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere,
+he becomes Cockney. "The destiny of the Empire," or "The destiny
+of humanity," do well enough for mere ornamental preliminaries,
+but when the man becomes angry and honest, then it is a snarl,
+"Where do we come in?" or "It's your money they want."
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different;
+they were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet
+quivering with passion, and tried to destroy his opponent,
+not with sniggering, but actually with eloquence. I was arguing
+with them about Home Rule; at the end I told them why the English
+aristocracy really disliked an Irish Parliament; because it would
+be like their club.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I
+saw pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London
+was rising against something that London had hardly heard of.
+Then I suddenly saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world
+is an immense and tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things.
+And I saw that across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin,
+sheet of ice, of wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I
+heard it crack.
+
+
+XXXVI
+
+A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read
+it through very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come
+to the conclusion that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read
+it through very carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet.
+The image and the idea of it clung to me through a great part
+of my boyhood; I may have dreamt it before I could talk; or told it
+to myself before I could read; or read it before I could remember.
+On the whole, however, I am certain that I did not read it,
+for children have very clear memories about things like that;
+and of the books which I was really fond I can still remember,
+not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline
+to the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages
+of the atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me,
+for the sake of argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch
+restaurants in the City where men take their food so fast that it
+has none of the quality of food, and take their half-hour's
+vacation so fast that it has none of the qualities of leisure;
+to hurry through one's leisure is the most unbusiness-like of actions.
+They all wore tall shiny hats as if they could not lose an instant
+even to hang them on a peg, and they all had one eye a little off,
+hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In short, they were the slaves
+of the modern bondage, you could hear their fetters clanking.
+Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest chain ever tied
+to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man
+who almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue.
+He was like all the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly
+opposite to them in all manner. He wore a high shiny hat
+and a long frock coat, but he wore them as such solemn things
+were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if it were a mitre,
+and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high priest.
+He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed
+(such was his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat
+for doing so, and to apologise to the peg for making use of it.
+When he had sat down on a wooden chair with the air of one
+considering its feelings and given a sort of slight stoop
+or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an altar,
+I could not help some comment springing to my lips.
+For the man was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man,
+and yet he treated everything with a care that almost
+amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said,
+"This furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat
+it much too carelessly."
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed
+as his was fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him
+ordinary as he entered, save for his strange, cautious manner;
+but if the other people had seen him then they would have screamed
+and emptied the room. They did not see him, and they went on making
+a clatter with their forks, and a murmur with their conversation.
+But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+
+"Did you mean anything particular by that remark?" he asked at last,
+and the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+"Nothing whatever," I answered. "One does not mean anything here;
+it spoils people's digestions."
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief;
+and yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+"I thought perhaps," he said in a low voice, "that another of them
+had gone wrong."
+
+"If you mean another digestion gone wrong," I said, "I never heard
+of one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire,
+and the other organs are in an equally bad way."
+
+"No, I mean another street gone wrong," and he said heavily
+and quietly, "but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you,
+I think I shall have to tell you the story. I do so with all
+the less responsibility, because I know you won't believe it.
+For forty years of my life I invariably left my office, which is
+in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the afternoon, taking with
+me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the left hand.
+For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the side
+office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side,
+took the first turning to the left and the third to the right,
+from where I bought an evening paper, followed the road on
+the right-hand side round two obtuse angles, and came out just
+outside a Metropolitan station, where I took a train home.
+For forty years two months and four days I fulfilled this course
+by accumulated habit: it was not a long street that I traversed,
+and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I
+went out in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand
+and my bag in the left, and I began to notice that walking along
+the familiar street tired me somewhat more than usual; and when I
+turned it I was convinced that I had turned down the wrong one.
+For now the street shot up quite a steep slant, such as one
+only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this part
+there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street;
+the name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were
+the same; the lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective
+was the same; only it was tilted upwards like a lid.
+Forgetting any trouble about breathlessness or fatigue I ran
+furiously forward, and reached the second of my accustomed turnings,
+which ought to bring me almost within sight of the station.
+And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the pavement.
+For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a steep
+staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles
+round that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill.
+And this was a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole
+street had lifted itself like a single wave, and yet every speck
+and detail of it was the same, and I saw in the high distance,
+as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked out in pink letters
+the name over my paper shop.
+
+"I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a
+part of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses.
+I had, I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long
+iron bridge in empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up
+the iron trap of a coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty
+space and the stairs.
+
+"When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was
+in shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing
+so perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world.
+And the stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought
+to be endured by the eyes of men.
+
+"'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of devils.'
+
+"After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+
+"'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+Station.'
+
+"'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now, however,
+it is going to heaven.'
+
+"'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+
+"'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody does.
+But you can't neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time,
+you can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the
+State so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no
+horse, no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and
+yet have less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have
+worked this street to death, and yet you have never remembered its
+existence. If you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would
+have hung this street with garlands and given it the name of a god.
+Then it would have gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired
+of your tireless insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to
+heaven. Have you never sat on a bucking horse?'
+
+"I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me
+to be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven.
+But in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this
+is all nonsense. Streets go to the place they have to go.
+A street must always go to its end.'
+
+"'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+
+"'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied,
+in reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always
+gone to Oldgate Station; day after . . .'
+
+"I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury
+of the road in revolt.
+
+"'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks
+of you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive?
+Day after day, year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station. . . .'
+Since then I have respected the things called inanimate."
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in
+the restaurant withdrew.
+
+
+XXXVII
+
+The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can
+get for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun,
+the moon, the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles.
+You can get them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing,
+which I am not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which
+the lowest price is a penny halfpenny. But the general principle
+will be at once apparent. In the street behind me, for instance,
+you can now get a ride on an electric tram for a halfpenny.
+To be on an electric tram is to be on a flying castle in a fairy tale.
+You can get quite a large number of brightly coloured sweets for
+a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of reading this article
+for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array
+of valuable things you can get at a halfpenny each you
+should do as I was doing last night. I was gluing my nose
+against the glass of a very small and dimly lit toy shop
+in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets of Battersea.
+But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made.
+Those toys of the poor were like the children who buy them;
+they were all dirty; but they were all bright. For my part,
+I think brightness more important than cleanliness; since
+the first is of the soul, and the second of the body. You
+must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion
+in the modern world.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red
+Noah's arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance.
+That lit shop-window became like the brilliantly lit
+stage when one is watching some highly coloured comedy.
+I forgot the grey houses and the grimy people behind me as one
+forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds at a theatre.
+It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were small,
+not because they were toys, but because they were objects far away.
+The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater omnibus,
+passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to Bayswater.
+The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was blue
+with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming
+and only man is black. The red Noah's ark was really the enormous
+ship of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea,
+red in the first morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction,
+such brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the
+face of one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles
+or moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the
+slowness of their growth and the suddenness of their termination.
+The return to real thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man.
+Very often indeed (in my case) it is bumping into a man.
+But in any case the awakening is always emphatic and,
+generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in this case,
+I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop;
+but in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final.
+There was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told
+me that I had strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I
+had already done some odd thing. I felt as if I had worked
+a miracle or committed a sin. It was as if I had at any rate,
+stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop
+and tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old
+and broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half
+his face, hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial.
+Yet though he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering
+in his eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling
+asleep in a not unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers,
+but when I put down the money he did not at first seem to see it;
+then he blinked at it feebly, and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+"No, no," he said vaguely. "I never have. I never have.
+We are rather old-fashioned here."
+
+"Not taking money," I replied, "seems to me more like an uncommonly
+new fashion than an old one."
+
+"I never have," said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose;
+"I've always given presents. I'm too old to stop."
+
+"Good heavens!" I said. "What can you mean? Why, you might
+be Father Christmas."
+
+"I am Father Christmas," he said apologetically, and blew
+his nose again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside.
+At any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street;
+I might have strayed into some new and sunless world.
+But something had cut the chords of common sense, and I could
+not feel even surprise except sleepily. Something made me say,
+"You look ill, Father Christmas."
+
+"I am dying," he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+"All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it.
+They seem to object to me on such curious and inconsistent
+sort of grounds, these scientific men, and these innovators.
+They say that I give people superstitions and make them too visionary;
+they say I give people sausages and make them too coarse.
+They say my heavenly parts are too heavenly; they say my earthly
+parts are too earthly; I don't know what they want, I'm sure.
+How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly things
+too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly?
+I don't understand. But I understand one thing well enough.
+These modern people are living and I am dead."
+
+"You may be dead," I replied. "You ought to know.
+But as for what they are doing, do not call it living."
+
+. . . . .
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected
+to be unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few
+seconds when, in the utter stillness, I distinctly heard
+a very rapid step coming nearer and nearer along the street.
+The next moment a figure flung itself into the shop and stood
+framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted back
+as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat.
+He had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor;
+he had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the
+shop and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and
+uttered the exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+"Good lord!" he cried out; "it can't be you! It isn't you!
+I came to ask where your grave was."
+
+"I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens," said the old gentleman, with a
+feeble smile; "but I'm dying," he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+"But, dash it all, you were dying in my time," said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; "and you don't look a day older."
+
+"I've felt like this for a long time," said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door
+into the darkness.
+
+"Dick," he roared at the top of his voice; "he's still alive."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne.
+He carried his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face
+had even a look of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted
+by his eyes, which were literally as humble as a dog's. His sword
+made a great clatter, as if the shop were too small for it.
+
+"Indeed," said Sir Richard Steele, "'tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley
+and his Christmas Day."
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker.
+It seemed to be filled with newcomers.
+
+"It hath ever been understood," said a burly man, who carried
+his head humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think
+he was Ben Jonson--"It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo,
+under our King James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty
+customs were fallen sick, and like to pass from the world.
+This grey beard most surely was no lustier when I knew him than now."
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood,
+say in some mixed Norman French, "But I saw the man dying."
+
+"I have felt like this a long time," said Father Christmas,
+in his feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+"Since when?" he asked. "Since you were born?"
+
+"Yes," said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair.
+"I have been always dying."
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling
+a mob to rise.
+
+"I understand it now," he cried, "you will never die."
+
+
+XXXVIII
+
+The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed
+affection for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there
+was so restful that we almost felt it as a home, and hardly
+strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees
+growing in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines
+of the Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent,
+in the poem, heard the bell which told them they were not too late.
+But we took as much pleasure in the people, in the little boys
+with open, flat Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks,
+making them look like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim,
+oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and mouths
+at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late
+mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his
+little tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke
+in one corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it.
+We got into the little train, which was meant really to take
+the peasants and their vegetables to and fro from their fields
+beyond the town, and the official came round to give us tickets.
+We asked him what place we should get to if we paid fivepence.
+The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us (with a
+lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism)
+where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only
+question was whether we could get there for fivepence.
+At last, after a great deal of international misunderstanding
+(for he spoke French in the Flemish and we in the English manner),
+he told us that fivepence would take us to a place which I
+have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded
+like the word "Waterloo" pronounced by an intoxicated patriot;
+I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking
+from boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field
+of Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was
+in quite a different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads,
+with one cottage at the corner, a perspective of tall trees like
+Hobbema's "Avenue," and beyond only the infinite flat chess-board
+of the little fields. It was the scene of peace and prosperity;
+but I must confess that my friend's first action was to ask
+the man when there would be another train back to Mechlin.
+The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one hour.
+We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and,
+finding the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief.
+The officer on this train could speak nothing but Flemish,
+but he understood the name Mechlin, and indicated that when we came
+to Mechlin Station he would put us down, which, after the right
+interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling.
+And if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you,
+why should it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails?
+But on this soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line
+of the Netherlands or the fact that we were returning home without
+any adventure, I really did think things a trifle dreary.
+As soon as we could creep under the shelter of a street
+we turned into a little cafe, kept by one woman. She was incredibly
+old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee and what
+was called "cognac fine." "Cognac fine" were the only two French
+words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At least,
+the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I,
+got up and went out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we
+could at once stroll back to our hotel by the station.
+I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless mood, and listening
+to the unremitting rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured
+and frantic.
+
+"Get up!" he cried, waving his hands wildly. "Get up! We're in the
+wrong town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles,
+twenty miles off--God knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp."
+
+"What!" I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+"Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face
+for an instant behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I
+was feeling depressed because we were in the right town.
+But if we are in the wrong town--why, we have our adventure after all!
+If we are in the wrong town, we are in the right place."
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat
+more grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre,
+which seemed to consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks,
+who sold lemonade.
+
+"This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!" I cried
+enthusiastically. "We must do something, something sacramental
+and commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be
+a bore to build a temple. Let us write a poem."
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope
+and one of those pencils that turn bright violet in water.
+There was plenty of water about, and the violet ran down
+the paper, symbolising the rich purple of that romantic hour.
+I began, choosing the form of an old French ballade;
+it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ "Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ "Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----"
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it
+expressed a more wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean.
+But he only turned up his coat collar, and I felt that for him
+the muse had folded her wings. I rewrote--
+
+ "Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre."
+
+"The next line," I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+"The next line," he said somewhat harshly, "will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we
+have to change twice. I dare say I should think this jolly
+romantic but for the weather. Adventure is the champagne
+of life, but I prefer my champagne and my adventures dry.
+Here is the station."
+
+. . . . .
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred
+cloud of rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky,
+that even made one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said
+to my friend in a low voice--"I have found out everything.
+We have come to the wrong star."
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: "That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world.
+When I thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it
+was wrong, I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness,
+tires us because it tells us we fit into this world. The true
+happiness is that we don't fit. We come from somewhere else.
+We have lost our way."
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had impressed
+or only fatigued him I could not tell. "This," I added, "is suggested
+in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ "'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'"
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple
+we heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with "No bally
+HORS D'OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once."
+
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+XXXIX
+
+The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants
+which happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909.
+And since I tend, like all who are growing old, to re-enter
+the remote past as a paradise or playground, I disinter a memory
+which may serve to stand among those memories of small but strange
+incidents with which I have sometimes filled this column.
+The thing has really some of the dark qualities of a detective-story;
+though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could hardly unravel
+it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the actors,
+doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth century,
+and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that Dr. Johnson
+was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over gravy,
+snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt.
+I had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions
+as I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been.
+I requested that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I
+might touch all of them but one, and then go back and touch that.
+Failing this, I felt that the least they could do was to have
+twenty-five cups of tea stationed at regular intervals along
+the course, each held by a Mrs. Thrale in full costume.
+My best constructive suggestion was the most harshly rejected of all.
+In front of me in the procession walked the great Bishop Berkeley,
+the man who turned the tables on the early materialists by maintaining
+that matter itself possibly does not exist. Dr. Johnson,
+you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as Berkeley's,
+and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, "I refute him so!"
+Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars,
+but behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot.
+But I must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities;
+we old men grow too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my
+assumed character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place
+at night in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date),
+that the garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms,
+and especially with early Celtic saints smoking pipes,
+and with elegant Renaissance gentlemen talking Cockney.
+Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless to say, that I got lost.
+I wandered away into some dim corner of that dim shrubbery,
+where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent ropes,
+and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man,
+who stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle.
+When I thought he would pass me, he stopped before my face,
+and said, "Dr. Johnson, I think. I am Paley."
+
+"Sir," I said, "you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you
+will perform a yet higher and harder function."
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but,
+turning his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms
+and winding mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight
+and laughing men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am
+(you will say) naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient.
+I was, moreover, unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark
+and took a man for a spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise
+as a modern gentleman in a masquerade dress. No; far from it.
+That spectral person was my first introduction to a special incident
+which has never been explained and which still lays its finger
+on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled
+as one does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life
+and a great deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger
+than life; he ought to have been a little man in a night-cap,
+with a cat under one arm and a spaniel under the other.
+As it was, he was a magnificent person, and looked more
+like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog.
+When I came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful
+improvement upon himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog
+and cat and would not be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting
+to be kicked in the interests of philosophy. In short, I met all
+my old friends but one. Where was Paley? I had been mystically
+moved by the man's presence; I was moved more by his absence.
+At last I saw advancing towards us across the twilight garden
+a little man with a large book and a bright attractive face.
+When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear voice, "I'm Paley."
+The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was ill and had
+sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four
+or five colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual
+friend with Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke.
+Cowper, I think it was, who introduced me to a friend of his,
+a fresh face, square and sturdy, framed in a white wig.
+"This," he explained, "is my friend So-and-So. He's Paley."
+I looked round at all the faces by this time fixed and familiar;
+I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the third Paley
+as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this
+one particular cleric should be so varying and elusive.
+It was singular that Paley, alone among men, should swell and
+shrink and alter like a phantom, while all else remained solid.
+But the thing was explicable; two men had been ill and there
+was an end of it; only I went again the next night, and a
+clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair bounded up to me,
+and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition
+of the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural
+explanations have broken down and no supernatural explanation has
+been established. My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I
+found myself once more in the colour and clatter of the pageant,
+and I was all the more pleased because I met an old school-fellow,
+and we mutually recognised each other under our heavy clothes
+and hoary wigs. We talked about all those great things for which
+literature is too small and only life large enough; red-hot memories
+and those gigantic details which make up the characters of men.
+I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of and those he had
+kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked at last
+how he came into the pageant.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was. . . ."
+
+"No, by thunder!" I said, "nor does anyone."
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream.
+I scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure
+which fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased.
+What could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among
+the faithful found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity
+or the unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being
+could support being Paley for one night and live till morning?
+Or was it that the gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British
+public thirsting to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time?
+Or is there some ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret
+society of Deists still assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery;
+and that for two reasons. First, the story is so true
+that I have had to put a lie into it. Every word of this
+narrative is veracious, except the one word Paley.
+And second, because I have got to go into the next room
+and dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
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