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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sisters, by Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
+will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
+using this eBook.
+
+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: June 13, 2003 [eBook #8092]
+[Most recently updated: April 27, 2022]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+Produced by: An Anonymous Volunteer
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+By G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission of the
+Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared. They amount
+to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary recording one day in
+twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--the only kind of diary the
+author has ever been able to keep. Even that diary he could only keep
+by keeping it in public, for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the
+topics they are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive.
+As the reader’s eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages, it
+probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post, a window
+blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the reader is looking at
+something that he has never seen: that is, never realised. He could not
+write an essay on such a post or wall: he does not know what the post
+or wall mean. He could not even write the synopsis of an essay; as “The
+Bed-Post; Its Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night
+Felt as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture,” and so on. He could
+not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards window-blinds, even
+in the form of a summary. “The Window-Blind--Its Analogy to the Curtain
+and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun,
+etc., etc.” None of us think enough of these things on which the eye
+rests. But don’t let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy?
+Let us exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that
+run across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be ocular
+athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or a coloured
+cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what follows; but anyone else
+may do it better, if anyone else will only try.
+
+
+ CONTENTS:
+
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon’s Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won’t Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+ XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+
+
+
+I. Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly in the
+front garden, because their villa was a model one. The front garden was
+about the same size as the dinner table; it consisted of four strips of
+gravel, a square of turf with some mysterious pieces of cork standing up
+in the middle and one flower bed with a row of red daisies. One morning
+while they were at play in these romantic grounds, a passing individual,
+probably the milkman, leaned over the railing and engaged them in
+philosophical conversation. The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter,
+were at least sharply interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who
+was, I need say, a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering
+them in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for. And
+Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness, explaining
+that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride across
+continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas in an afternoon
+dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from his breast pocket,
+waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner; and in an instant the
+model villa with its front garden was like a tiny doll’s house at Paul’s
+colossal feet. He went striding away with his head above the clouds to
+visit Niagara and the Himalayas. But when he came to the Himalayas,
+he found they were quite small and silly-looking, like the little cork
+rockery in the garden; and when he found Niagara it was no bigger than
+the tap turned on in the bathroom. He wandered round the world for
+several minutes trying to find something really large and finding
+everything small, till in sheer boredom he lay down on four or five
+prairies and fell asleep. Unfortunately his head was just outside the
+hut of an intellectual backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment
+with an axe in one hand and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the
+other. The man looked at the book and then at the giant, and then at the
+book again. And in the book it said, “It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe.” So the
+backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and, working eight hours a
+day for about a week, cut the giant’s head off; and there was an end of
+him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long wished to
+be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he immediately became
+one. When the transformation was over he found himself in the midst of
+an immense plain, covered with a tall green jungle and above which, at
+intervals, rose strange trees each with a head like the sun in symbolic
+pictures, with gigantic rays of silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward
+the middle of this prairie stood up a mountain of such romantic and
+impossible shape, yet of such stony height and dominance, that it looked
+like some incident of the end of the world. And far away on the faint
+horizon he could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more
+mystical, of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever.
+He set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has not
+come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced it is
+not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction. It is in fact
+the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating the pages that
+follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences upon European
+literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own preference in
+its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it by what little girls
+call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other great
+literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England by Mr.
+Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest by
+sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere. Let it
+be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight; and the
+two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling’s school advises us
+to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without a frock coat. The
+school to which I belong suggests that we should stare steadily at the
+man until we see the man inside the frock coat. If we stare at him long
+enough he may even be moved to take off his coat to us; and that is a
+far greater compliment than his taking off his hat. In other words,
+we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely on the facts actually
+before us, force them to turn into adventures; force them to give up
+their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose. The purpose of the
+Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary things a man may
+see if he is active and strides from continent to continent like the
+giant in my tale. But the object of my school is to show how many
+extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man may see if he can spur
+himself to the single activity of seeing. For this purpose I have taken
+the laziest person of my acquaintance, that is myself; and made an idle
+diary of such odd things as I have fallen over by accident, in walking
+in a very limited area at a very indolent pace. If anyone says that
+these are very small affairs talked about in very big language, I can
+only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke. If anyone says that
+I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess with pride that it is
+so. I can imagine no more successful and productive form of manufacture
+than that of making mountains out of molehills. But I would add this not
+unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains; one has only to become a
+pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering, in getting
+to the top of everything and overlooking everything. Satan was the
+most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took Jesus to the top of an
+exceeding high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the earth.
+But the joy of Satan in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness,
+but a joy in beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like
+insects at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large; it is
+from the level that things look high; I am a child of the level and have
+no need of that celebrated Alpine guide. I will lift up my eyes to the
+hills, from whence cometh my help; but I will not lift up my carcass
+to the hills, unless it is absolutely necessary. Everything is in an
+attitude of mind; and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude. I
+will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle on me like
+flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you. The world will never
+starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.
+
+
+
+
+II. A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up a
+walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any brown
+paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she mistook
+the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper. She
+seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must be
+wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to
+do; indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental
+capacity. Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of
+toughness and endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only
+wanted to draw pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in
+the least; and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a
+question, not of tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing
+comparatively irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I
+wanted to draw she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently
+supposing that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper
+wrappers from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I not
+only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness in paper,
+just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods, or in beer,
+or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper represents the primal
+twilight of the first toil of creation, and with a bright-coloured
+chalk or two you can pick out points of fire in it, sparks of gold, and
+blood-red, and sea-green, like the first fierce stars that sprang out of
+divine darkness. All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman;
+and I put the brown paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and
+possibly other things. I suppose every one must have reflected how
+primeval and how poetical are the things that one carries in one’s
+pocket; the pocket-knife, for instance, the type of all human tools, the
+infant of the sword. Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely
+about the things in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and
+the age of the great epics is past.
+
+.....
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper, I went out
+on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal contours that
+express the best quality of England, because they are at the same time
+soft and strong. The smoothness of them has the same meaning as the
+smoothness of great cart-horses, or the smoothness of the beech-tree;
+it declares in the teeth of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty
+are merciful. As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake. The
+villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see, for centuries;
+yet the lifting of the whole land was like the lifting of one enormous
+wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven’s sake, imagine I was going to
+sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim, and blind
+old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right, and saints in
+robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green, and all the sacred
+or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright colours on brown paper.
+They are much better worth drawing than Nature; also they are much
+easier to draw. When a cow came slouching by in the field next to me, a
+mere artist might have drawn it; but I always get wrong in the hind legs
+of quadrupeds. So I drew the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly
+walking before me in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and
+silver, and had seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the
+beasts. But though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the
+landscape, it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the
+best out of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about
+the old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills; but
+they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much less about
+Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They painted the white
+robes of their holy virgins with the blinding snow, at which they had
+stared all day. They blazoned the shields of their paladins with the
+purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets. The greenness of a thousand
+green leaves clustered into the live green figure of Robin Hood. The
+blueness of a score of forgotten skies became the blue robes of the
+Virgin. The inspiration went in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+.....
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that
+a most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential. I
+cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the wise
+and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this, that white
+is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is a shining and
+affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as black. When, so
+to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses; when it grows
+white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three defiant verities
+of the best religious morality, of real Christianity, for example, is
+exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of religious morality
+is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence of vices or the
+avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and separate thing, like
+pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean not being cruel or
+sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a plain and positive
+thing like the sun, which one has either seen or not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means something
+flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in many colours; but
+He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost said so gaudily, as when
+He paints in white. In a sense our age has realised this fact, and
+expressed it in our sullen costume. For if it were really true that
+white was a blank and colourless thing, negative and non-committal, then
+white would be used instead of black and grey for the funeral dress of
+this pessimistic period. We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of
+spotless silver linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies.
+Which is not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+.....
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town nearer than
+Chichester at which it was even remotely probable that there would be
+such a thing as an artist’s colourman. And yet, without white, my absurd
+little pictures would be as pointless as the world would be if there
+were no good people in it. I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for
+expedients. Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and
+again, so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine
+a man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some salt
+water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on an immense
+warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made entirely out of white
+chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until it met the sky. I stooped
+and broke a piece off the rock I sat on; it did not mark so well as the
+shop chalks do; but it gave the effect. And I stood there in a trance
+of pleasure, realising that this Southern England is not only a grand
+peninsula, and a tradition and a civilisation; it is something even more
+admirable. It is a piece of chalk.
+
+
+
+
+III. The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a loose
+memory. I will not merely say that this story is true: because, as you
+will soon see, it is all truth and no story. It has no explanation and
+no conclusion; it is, like most of the other things we encounter in
+life, a fragment of something else which would be intensely exciting if
+it were not too large to be seen. For the perplexity of life arises from
+there being too many interesting things in it for us to be interested
+properly in any of them; what we call its triviality is really the
+tag-ends of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like
+ten thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon. My
+experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate, not
+fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents (what there were
+of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere of the landscape, which
+were the whole horror of the thing. I remember them vividly, and they
+were as I shall now describe.
+
+.....
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing outside
+the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London. And
+for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind or the
+emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice fell upon
+me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step out on the
+road and walk at least some part of the way to London. I do not know
+if other people are made like me in this matter; but to me it is always
+dreary weather, what may be called useless weather, that slings into
+life a sense of action and romance. On bright blue days I do not want
+anything to happen; the world is complete and beautiful, a thing for
+contemplation. I no more ask for adventures under that turquoise dome
+than I ask for adventures in church. But when the background of man’s
+life is a grey background, then, in the name of man’s sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail man
+refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in letters
+of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall happen, then the
+immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises up and decrees that
+something shall happen, if it be only the slaughter of a policeman. But
+this is a digressive way of stating what I have said already--that
+the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger for some change of plans, that the
+monotonous weather seemed to render unbearable the use of the monotonous
+train, and that I set out into the country lanes, out of the town of
+Oxford. It was, perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came
+upon me out of the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years
+afterwards I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir
+George Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless. The
+fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies; the
+tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds and as
+cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening was closing in.
+A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon, as if pale with reluctance
+to leave the world in the dark. And as it faded more and more the skies
+seemed to come closer and to threaten. The clouds which had been merely
+sullen became swollen; and then they loosened and let down the dark
+curtains of the rain. The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like
+blows from an enemy at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and
+bawling in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man, and
+in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met him I asked
+him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up the train for
+Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station (I cannot even
+remember the name of it) which stood well away from the road and looked
+as lonely as a hut on the Andes. I do not think I have ever seen such a
+type of time and sadness and scepticism and everything devilish as that
+station was: it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking wood of
+it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome liquid corruption
+of the wood itself; as if the solid station were eternally falling to
+pieces and pouring away in filth. It took me nearly ten minutes to find
+a man in the station. When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him
+if there was a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As
+far as I understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail of the
+tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain. It may have
+been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather slowly into the
+station. It was an unnaturally dark train; I could not see a light
+anywhere in the long black body of it; and I could not see any guard
+running beside it. I was reduced to walking up to the engine and calling
+out to the stoker to ask if the train was going to London. “Well--yes,
+sir,” he said, with an unaccountable kind of reluctance. “It is going
+to London; but----” It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering, as we
+steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined with desolate
+poplars, until we slowed down and stopped, irrationally, in the middle
+of a field. I heard a heavy noise as of some one clambering off the
+train, and a dark, ragged head suddenly put itself into my window.
+“Excuse me, sir,” said the stoker, “but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps
+you ought to know--there’s a dead man in this train.”
+
+.....
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be finally
+overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have insisted on
+getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to say, I expressed myself
+politely, but firmly, to the effect that I didn’t care particularly if
+the train took me to Paddington. But when the train had started with
+its unknown burden I did do one thing, and do it quite instinctively,
+without stopping to think, or to think more than a flash. I threw
+away my cigar. Something that is as old as man and has to do with
+all mourning and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there being
+only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the other smoking
+a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end of it faded like a
+funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic moment of a procession,
+I realised how immortal ritual is. I realised (what is the origin and
+essence of all ritual) that in the presence of those sacred riddles
+about which we can say nothing it is more decent merely to do something.
+And I realised that ritual will always mean throwing away something;
+DESTROYING our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang out of
+it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier and officials
+guarding the rear part of the train; no one was allowed to press towards
+it. They were guarding and hiding something; perhaps death in some too
+shocking form, perhaps something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up
+with human mystery and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of
+sanctity; perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough
+into the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces.
+Nor have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+
+
+IV. The Perfect Game
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have happened to
+him, but that he does not really believe that they were supernatural. My
+own position is the opposite of this. I believe in the supernatural as a
+matter of intellect and reason, not as a matter of personal experience.
+I do not see ghosts; I only see their inherent probability. But it is
+entirely a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy. But
+upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often leave a
+peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance that ever occurred
+to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted in nothing less than my
+playing a game, and playing it quite well for some seventeen consecutive
+minutes. The ghost of my grandfather would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and luxuriant
+side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene. I played
+it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had a
+semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest. It
+is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument; but
+it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+“Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!” I cried, patting him affectionately on the
+head with a mallet, “how far you really are from the pure love of the
+sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly who love the Game
+itself. You love glory; you love applause; you love the earthquake voice
+of victory; you do not love croquet. You do not love croquet until
+you love being beaten at croquet. It is we the bunglers who adore the
+occupation in the abstract. It is we to whom it is art for art’s sake.
+If we may see the face of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself)
+we are content to see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is
+called amateurish; and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs
+is but the French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady,
+the most disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates
+(I allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within the pedantic
+boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek honour in the ends
+of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds and the conservatory; they
+are to be found in the front garden and the next street. No, Parkinson!
+The good painter has skill. It is the bad painter who loves his art. The
+good musician loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With
+such a pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or tape,
+as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland, the four
+seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and the click of
+the balls is music. The four colours are to me sacramental and symbolic,
+like the red of martyrdom, or the white of Easter Day. You lose all
+this, my poor Parkinson. You have to solace yourself for the absence of
+this vision by the paltry consolation of being able to go through hoops
+and to hit the stick.”
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+“Don’t be too sorry for me,” said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm. “I
+shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more a man likes
+a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that the pleasure
+in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure of success come
+naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your own simile of the
+Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman does first and foremost
+want to be in the lady’s presence. But I never yet heard of a gentleman
+who wanted to look an utter ass when he was there.”
+
+“Perhaps not; though he generally looks it,” I replied. “But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the love
+of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not true
+that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger will
+be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to enjoy
+it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant hoop as
+easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would not put it
+through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your hand; it would
+not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you would not play at
+all. The moment the game is perfect the game disappears.”
+
+“I do not think, however,” said Parkinson, “that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not think
+your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence. You are
+safe for the present.”
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired
+myself, and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four more
+fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five more
+hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+“We shall have to give this up,” said Parkinson, as he missed a ball
+almost for the first time, “I can’t see a thing.”
+
+“Nor can I,” I answered, “and it is a comfort to reflect that I could
+not hit anything if I saw it.”
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was the
+right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I supposed
+was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick. And in the dead
+silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. “I can’t stand this,” I said. “My ball has gone
+right three times. These things are not of this world.”
+
+“Pick your mallet up,” said Parkinson, “have another go.”
+
+“I tell you I daren’t. If I made another hoop like that I should see all
+the devils dancing there on the blessed grass.”
+
+“Why devils?” asked Parkinson; “they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the ‘Perfect Game,’ which is no game.”
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness, in which
+the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across the grass
+as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull click
+of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+
+
+V. The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper columns.
+I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better expressed
+by some practical parable out of daily life than by any other method;
+therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the extraordinary cabman,
+which occurred to me only three days ago, and which, slight as it
+apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine emotion bordering upon
+despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching in a little
+restaurant in Soho in company with three or four of my best friends. My
+best friends are all either bottomless sceptics or quite uncontrollable
+believers, so our discussion at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate
+and terrible ideas. And the whole argument worked out ultimately to
+this: that the question is whether a man can be certain of anything
+at all. I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible intellectually
+to entertain certainty, what is this certainty which it is impossible
+to entertain? If I have never experienced such a thing as certainty I
+cannot even say that a thing is not certain. Similarly, if I have never
+experienced such a thing as green I cannot even say that my nose is not
+green. It may be as green as possible for all I know, if I have really
+no experience of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the
+room; because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing. And
+the difference between us was very deep, because it was a difference as
+to the object of the whole thing called broad-mindedness or the opening
+of the intellect. For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the
+sun opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening’s sake, opening
+infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened my intellect as I opened
+my mouth, in order to shut it again on something solid. I was doing
+it at the moment. And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly
+silly if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+.....
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short (for
+it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions, who in
+the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election had somehow
+become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab from the
+corner of Leicester-square to the members’ entrance of the House of
+Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper is a
+discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude of
+detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab on a few
+hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I had to visit. I
+then got out and offered him more than his fare. He looked at it, but
+not with the surly doubt and general disposition to try it on which is
+not unknown among normal cabmen. But this was no normal, perhaps, no
+human, cabman. He looked at it with a dull and infantile astonishment,
+clearly quite genuine. “Do you know, sir,” he said, “you’ve only given
+me 1s.8d?” I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. “Now you
+know, sir,” said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, “you know
+that ain’t the fare from Euston.” “Euston,” I repeated vaguely, for the
+phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia. “What on
+earth has Euston got to do with it?” “You hailed me just outside Euston
+Station,” began the man with astonishing precision, “and then you
+said----” “What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?” I said
+with Christian forbearance; “I took you at the south-west corner of
+Leicester-square.” “Leicester-square,” he exclaimed, loosening a kind of
+cataract of scorn, “why we ain’t been near Leicester-square to-day. You
+hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----” “Are you mad, or am
+I?” I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would think of
+creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie. And this man was
+not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human face was heavy and simple and
+humble, and with great big blue eyes protruding like a frog’s, if ever
+(in short) a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and down the
+street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming on. And for one
+second the old nightmare of the sceptic put its finger on my nerve. What
+was certainty? Was anybody certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the
+dull rut of the sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future
+life. The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we possess a
+past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically considered, except
+a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew deeper from the road. The
+cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate details of the gesture, the
+words, the complex but consistent course of action which I had adopted
+since that remarkable occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston
+Station. How did I know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not
+hailed him outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite
+equally firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I,
+and a member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment the
+universe and the stars swung just a hair’s breadth from their balance,
+and the foundations of the earth were moved. But for the same reason
+that I believe in Democracy, for the same reason that I believe in free
+will, for the same reason that I believe in fixed character of virtue,
+the reason that could only be expressed by saying that I do not choose
+to be a lunatic, I continued to believe that this honest cabman was
+wrong, and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and ponderous
+sincerity, “You hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----”
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind of frightful
+transfiguration of living astonishment, as if he had been lit up like
+a lamp from the inside. “Why, I beg your pardon, sir,” he said. “I beg
+your pardon. I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I
+remember now. I beg your pardon.” And with that this astonishing man let
+out his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+.....
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance and the
+mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying that although his
+face had seemed so honest there was something unearthly and demoniac
+about him when seen from behind. Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me
+from my adherence to those sanities and certainties which I had defended
+earlier in the day. In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that
+my sense of reality, though it had rocked for an instant, had remained
+erect.
+
+
+
+
+VI. An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called “The
+Extraordinary Cabman.” I am now in a position to contribute my
+experience of a still more extraordinary cab. The extraordinary thing
+about the cab was that it did not like me; it threw me out violently in
+the middle of the Strand. If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are
+as romantic (and as rich) as I take them to be, I presume that this
+experience is not uncommon. I suppose that they are all being thrown out
+of cabs, all over London. Still, as there are some people, virginal and
+remote from the world, who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I
+will give a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--that
+one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged, will
+gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that it is
+both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in these two
+respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came to grief.
+But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it belongs to a
+beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is pretending to be
+richer than they are, and acting as if they were. It is comfortable, and
+yet it is reckless; and that combination is the very soul of England.
+But although I had always realised all these good qualities in a hansom
+cab, I had not experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put
+it, all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits of a
+hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up. Let me,
+therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom cab for the
+first and, I am happy to believe, the last time. Polycrates threw one
+ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates. I have thrown one hansom
+cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather violent metaphor) and the
+Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated. Though I am told they do not
+like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one of the
+sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own admirable
+articles with continual pleasure, and still more continual surprise,
+when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment on the scraping stones,
+staggered to his feet again, and went forward. The horses in my cabs
+often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy my own articles at any angle
+of the vehicle. So I did not see anything at all odd about the way
+the horse went on again. But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the
+people on the pavement. They were all turned towards me, and they were
+all struck with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky. And
+one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the elbow as if
+warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse. Then I knew that
+the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse was like a living
+thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly as they seemed to me;
+many details I may have missed or mis-stated; many details may have,
+so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road. I remember that I
+once called one of my experiences narrated in this paper “A Fragment of
+Fact.” This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact. No fact could possibly
+be more fragmentary than the sort of fact that I expected to be at the
+bottom of that street.
+
+.....
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally found that
+the converted do not understand their own religion. Thus I have always
+urged in this paper that democracy has a deeper meaning than democrats
+understand; that is, that common and popular things, proverbs, and
+ordinary sayings always have something in them unrealised by most who
+repeat them. Here is one. We have all heard about the man who is in
+momentary danger, and who sees the whole of his life pass before him
+in a moment. In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is
+obviously a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident or
+a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets he had ever
+taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever passed the brown
+bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards the traffic
+of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth behind this phrase,
+as there is behind all popular phrases. I did really have, in that short
+and shrieking period, a rapid succession of a number of fundamental
+points of view. I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as
+many seconds. My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere
+men is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded a
+state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper name has ever
+been found. The ancients called it Stoicism, and I think it must be what
+some German lunatics mean (if they mean anything) when they talk
+about Pessimism. It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that
+happens--as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously
+enough, came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic. It was
+a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that life was much
+too important ever to be anything but life. I hope that this was
+Christianity. At any rate, it occurred at the moment when we went crash
+into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling out from
+underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they must have added
+enormously to that great cause to which the Anti-Puritan League and I
+have recently dedicated ourselves. I mean the cause of the pleasures of
+the people. As to my demeanour when I emerged, I have two confessions to
+make, and they are both made merely in the interests of mental science.
+The first is that whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the
+moment before the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got
+off with a cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped. I can
+distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state of irremediable
+spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now, and I apologise both to
+the man and to the paper. I have not the least idea what was the meaning
+of this unnatural anger; I mention it as a psychological confession. It
+was immediately followed by extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly
+jokes to the policeman that he disgraced himself by continual laughter
+before all the little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him
+seriously.
+
+.....
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention as
+a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain. At intervals of
+about every three minutes I kept on reminding the policeman that I had
+not paid the cabman, and that I hoped he would not lose his money. He
+said it would be all right, and the man would appear. But it was not
+until about half an hour afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a
+shock intolerable that the man might conceivably have lost more
+than half a crown; that he had been in danger as well as I. I had
+instinctively regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents,
+a god. I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more
+delicate charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin,
+and neglect the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I
+was once really tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might
+have been dead. Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross
+Hospital tied up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand.
+I felt upon me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something
+untried. So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+
+
+VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement and
+casting about for some phrase of consolation that should not be either
+insolent or weak, said at last, “I think one can live through these
+great sorrows and even be the better. What wears one is the little
+worries.” “That’s quite right, mum,” answered the old woman with
+emphasis, “and I ought to know, seeing I’ve had ten of ’em.” It is,
+perhaps, in this sense that it is most true that little worries are most
+wearing. In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a
+truth, contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the right to say
+that they find the small ones the most bitter; and it is undoubtedly
+true that the back which is bowed under loads incredible can feel a
+faint addition to those loads; a giant holding up the earth and all
+its animal creation might still find the grasshopper a burden. But I
+am afraid that the maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is
+sometimes used or abused by people, because they have nothing but the
+very smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity she
+would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman may permit
+himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he would behave much
+better if it were a mere matter of starvation. We need not deny that
+the grasshopper on man’s shoulder is a burden; but we need not pay much
+respect to the gentleman who is always calling out that he would rather
+have an elephant when he knows there are no elephants in the country. We
+may concede that a straw may break the camel’s back, but we like to know
+that it really is the last straw and not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right to grumble,
+so long as they grumble about something else. It is a singular fact that
+if they are sane they almost always do grumble about something else. To
+talk quite reasonably about your own quite real wrongs is the quickest
+way to go off your head. But people with great troubles talk about
+little ones, and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very
+often has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly a very
+clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified in asking
+that he shall not make mountains out of molehills. I do not deny that
+molehills can sometimes be important. Small annoyances have this
+evil about them, that they can be more abrupt because they are more
+invisible; they cast no shadow before, they have no atmosphere. No
+one ever had a mystical premonition that he was going to tumble over a
+hassock. William III. died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose
+that with all his varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a
+mountain. But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask
+a happy man (not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences,
+and even make them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive
+poverty I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts, finding
+unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse, finding
+punctuality when we don’t. It is of the poetic pleasures to be drawn
+from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence because I have
+recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures which arise
+from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot, with the only
+alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--a stork is a
+poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if the thing
+itself symbolise something other than isolation. If we wish to see what
+a house is it must be a house in some uninhabited landscape. If we wish
+to depict what a man really is we must depict a man alone in a desert or
+on a dark sea sand. So long as he is a single figure he means all that
+humanity means; so long as he is solitary he means human society; so
+long as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship. Add another
+figure and the picture is less human--not more so. One is company, two
+is none. If you wish to symbolise human building draw one dark tower on
+the horizon; if you wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the
+sky. Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we call our day
+there is but one star in the sky--a large, fierce star which we call the
+sun. One sun is splendid; six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of
+Giotto is sublime; a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row
+of white posts. The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower;
+the poetry of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping the
+single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find the poetry of
+all human anatomy in standing on a single leg. To express complete and
+perfect leggishness the leg must stand in sublime isolation, like the
+tower in the wilderness. As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is
+that which stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity of some Doric
+column. The students of architecture tell us that the only legitimate
+use of a column is to support weight. This column of mine fulfils its
+legitimate function. It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic
+consistency, it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness or dislocation
+of the one leg may find compensation in the astonishing strength and
+classic beauty of the other leg. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr.
+George Meredith’s novel might pass by at any moment, and seeing me in
+the stork-like attitude would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more
+literal exactitude, “He has a leg.” Notice how this famous literary
+phrase supports my contention touching this isolation of any admirable
+thing. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg. She
+delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive fact
+that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous and irrelevant,
+a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have confused Mrs.
+Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London. That having had one
+good leg he should have another--this would be to use vain repetitions
+as the Gentiles do. She would have been as much bewildered by him as if
+he had been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity, all
+desolation has for its real aim this separation of something so that it
+may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel grateful for the slight
+sprain which has introduced this mysterious and fascinating division
+between one of my feet and the other. The way to love anything is to
+realise that it might be lost. In one of my feet I can feel how strong
+and splendid a foot is; in the other I can realise how very much
+otherwise it might have been. The moral of the thing is wholly
+exhilarating. This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us. If you
+wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself if only for a
+moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully and wonderfully God’s image
+is made, stand on one leg. If you want to realise the splendid vision of
+all visible things--wink the other eye.
+
+
+
+
+VIII. The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious town
+of Besançon, which stands like a sort of peninsula in a horse-shoe of
+river. You may learn from the guide books that it was the birthplace of
+Victor Hugo, and that it is a military station with many forts, near the
+French frontier. But you will not learn from guide books that the very
+tiles on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate colour
+than the tiles of all the other towns of the world; that the tiles look
+like the little clouds of some strange sunset, or like the lustrous
+scales of some strange fish. They will not tell you that in this
+town the eye cannot rest on anything without finding it in some way
+attractive and even elvish, a carved face at a street corner, a gleam of
+green fields through a stunted arch, or some unexpected colour for the
+enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+.....
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours so simple
+and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together and make a fairy
+tale. I sat down for a little outside a café with a row of little toy
+trees in front of it, and presently the driver of a fly (as we should
+call it) came to the same place. He was one of those very large and dark
+Frenchmen, a type not common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian
+Frenchman, huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was
+a sort of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but
+English. And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two
+nations. For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets, this
+Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--as if pleasure
+were a kind of pagan religion. After some talk which was full of the
+admirable civility and equality of French civilisation, he suggested
+without either eagerness or embarrassment that he should take me in his
+fly for an hour’s ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was
+growing late I consented; for there was one long white road under an
+archway and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord. We
+drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans, and I
+remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we passed out of
+the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds which are the trinity
+of France. They make what some poet calls “a tangled trinity,” and I am
+not going to disentangle it. Whatever those three things mean, how
+or why they co-exist; whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are
+reconciled already; the three sounds I heard then by an accident all
+at once make up the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino
+gardens behind me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some
+ramping tune from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on
+I heard also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible
+loyalties and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+.....
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having left
+France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world. And, indeed,
+there was something in the landscape wild enough to encourage such
+a fancy. I have seen perhaps higher mountains, but I have never
+seen higher rocks; I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and
+sensational, splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of
+churches, cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from
+heaven. There was also a quality in the ride which was not only
+astonishing, but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have
+noticed if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads. I mean
+a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole earth turning about one’s
+head. It is quite inadequate to say that the hills rose and fell like
+enormous waves. Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the
+enormous sails of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic
+wings. As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset
+this dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof. I stared
+at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a wooded plain. Below
+me steeps of green swept down to the river. I stared at them until I
+fancied that they swept up to the sky. The purple darkened, night drew
+nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer the chasms and draw higher the
+spires of that nightmare landscape. Above me in the twilight was
+the huge black hulk of the driver, and his broad, blank back was as
+mysterious as the back of Death in Watts’ picture. I felt that I was
+growing too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things. I
+called out to the driver in French, “Where are you taking me?” and it
+is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same language
+without turning around, “To the end of the world.”
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark, steep ways, until
+I saw lights under a low roof of little trees and two children, one
+oddly beautiful, playing at ball. Then we found ourselves filling up the
+strict main street of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was
+written in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place. I ordered
+bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but had no name. On
+the other side of the road was a little plain church with a cross on top
+of it and a cock on top of the cross. This seemed to me a very good end
+of the world; if the story of the world ended here it ended well. Then
+I wondered whether I myself should really be content to end here, where
+most certainly there were the best things of Christendom--a church and
+children’s games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me, and at
+last I started up.
+
+“Are you not satisfied?” asked my companion. “No,” I said, “I am not
+satisfied even at the end of the world.”
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, “Because you see there are two ends of
+the world. And this is the wrong end of the world; at least the wrong
+one for me. This is the French end of the world. I want the other end of
+the world. Drive me to the other end of the world.”
+
+“The other end of the world?” he asked. “Where is that?”
+
+“It is in Walham Green,” I whispered hoarsely. “You see it on the London
+omnibuses. ‘World’s End and Walham Green.’ Oh, I know how good this is;
+I love your vineyards and your free peasantry, but I want the English
+end of the world. I love you like a brother, but I want an English
+cabman, who will be funny and ask me what his fare ‘is.’ Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman. Take, oh, take me
+to see a London policeman.”
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset, and I could
+not tell whether he understood or not. I got back into his carriage.
+
+“You will understand,” I said, “if ever you are an exile even for
+pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country, as a
+countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is rather too long
+a drive to the English end of the world, we may as well drive back to
+Besançon.”
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept for Walham
+Green.
+
+
+
+
+IX. In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a café in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with a
+capering figure, which stands in the place where the people destroyed a
+prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious example of how symbolic
+is the great part of human history. As a matter of mere material fact,
+the Bastille when it was taken was not a horrible prison; it was hardly
+a prison at all. But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a
+sure instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance, at the last
+General Election, or for President Kruger’s hat in the election before;
+their poetic sense is perfect. The Chinaman with his pigtail is not
+an idle flippancy. He does typify with a compact precision exactly
+the thing the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots, that it
+is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy and evil magic
+calling monsters from the ends of the earth. The people hate the mine
+owner who can bring a Chinaman flying across the sea, exactly as the
+people hated the wizard who could fetch a flying dragon through the air.
+It was the same with Mr. Kruger’s hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was
+not merely a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the
+exact thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the unbeautiful
+dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of political morality.
+No; the people are sometimes wrong on the practical side of politics;
+they are never wrong on the artistic side.
+
+.....
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform. It was
+an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image. The people saw the
+building like a giant looking at them with a score of eyes, and they
+struck at it as at a carved fact. For of all the shapes in which that
+immense illusion called materialism can terrify the soul, perhaps the
+most oppressive are big buildings. Man feels like a fly, an accident,
+in the thing he has himself made. It requires a violent effort of the
+spirit to remember that man made this confounding thing and man could
+unmake it. Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual, a ritual
+meaning far beyond its immediate political results. It is a religious
+service. If, for instance, the Socialists were numerous or courageous
+enough to capture and smash up the Bank of England, you might argue for
+ever about the inutility of the act, and how it really did not touch the
+root of the economic problem in the correct manner. But mankind would
+never forget it. It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength of a society,
+for the most valuable things in a human state are the irrevocable
+things--marriage, for instance. And architecture approaches nearer than
+any other art to being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get
+rid of. You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall. You
+can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of very sincere emotion
+that you tear a town-hall to pieces. A building is akin to dogma; it
+is insolent, like a dogma. Whether or no it is permanent, it claims
+permanence like a dogma. People ask why we have no typical architecture
+of the modern world, like impressionism in painting. Surely it is
+obviously because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in the sky that
+does not change like the clouds of the sky. But along with this decision
+which is involved in creating a building, there goes a quite similar
+decision in the more delightful task of smashing one. The two of
+necessity go together. In few places have so many fine public buildings
+been set up as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been
+destroyed. When people have finally got into the horrible habit of
+preserving buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one’s tears because so few are
+pulled down.
+
+.....
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty and
+Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like so many
+such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and silent line of
+horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and prosaic enough,
+but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their helmets; and their
+helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans. I had seen them
+by twos and threes often enough before. I had seen plenty of them in
+pictures toiling through the snows of Friedland or roaring round
+the squares at Waterloo. But now they came file after file, like an
+invasion, and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that
+lit up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie into
+which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet and cry out,
+“The French soldiers!” There were the little men with the brown faces
+that had so often ridden through the capitals of Europe as coolly as
+they now rode through their own. And when I looked across the square I
+saw that the two other corners were choked with blue and red; held
+by little groups of infantry. The city was garrisoned as against a
+revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker. He
+said he was not going to “Chomer.” I said, “Qu’est-ce que c’est que le
+chome?” He said, “Ils ne veulent pas travailler.” I said, “Ni moi non
+plus,” and he thought I was a class-conscious collectivist proletarian.
+The whole thing was curious, and the true moral of it one not easy for
+us, as a nation, to grasp, because our own faults are so deeply and
+dangerously in the other direction. To me, as an Englishman (personally
+steeped in the English optimism and the English dislike of severity),
+the whole thing seemed a fuss about nothing. It looked like turning out
+one of the best armies in Europe against ordinary people walking
+about the street. The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less
+harmlessly. But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not) as docile as
+the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled, so to speak,
+through the whole noisy night. This people has a natural faculty for
+feeling itself on the eve of something--of the Bartholomew or the
+Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment. It is this sense of
+crisis that makes France eternally young. It is perpetually pulling down
+and building up, as it pulled down the prison and put up the column
+in the Place de La Bastille. France has always been at the point of
+dissolution. She has found the only method of immortality. She dies
+daily.
+
+
+
+
+X. On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience if
+only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic apparatus on the
+premises. I think myself that the thing might be managed with several
+pails of Aspinall and a broom. Only if one worked in a really sweeping
+and masterly way, and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip
+down again on one’s face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages. I am afraid
+it would be necessary to stick to black and white in this form of
+artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed, the white ceiling would
+be of the greatest possible use; in fact, it is the only use I think of
+a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces in
+a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, “Il me faut des géants.”
+ But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern rooms
+such as we all live in I was continually disappointed. I found an
+endless pattern and complication of small objects hung like a curtain of
+fine links between me and my desire. I examined the walls; I found them
+to my surprise to be already covered with wallpaper, and I found the
+wallpaper to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand why one
+arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely devoid of any religious
+or philosophical significance) should thus be sprinkled all over my
+nice walls like a sort of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to
+wallpapers, I think, when it says, “Use not vain repetitions, as the
+Gentiles do.” I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called Turkish
+Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight really is; but I
+suppose it is Macedonian Massacres. Everywhere that I went forlornly,
+with my pencil or my paint brush, I found that others had unaccountably
+been before me, spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with
+their childish and barbaric designs.
+
+.....
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this
+occasion when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying
+on my back in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my
+vision, that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom. But alas!
+like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found to be unattainable;
+it looks more austere and more distant than the blue sky outside the
+window. For my proposal to paint on it with the bristly end of a broom
+has been discouraged--never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all
+political rights--and even my minor proposal to put the other end of
+the broom into the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been
+conceded. Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that
+all the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods. I am
+sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged in the ancient
+and honourable occupation of lying in bed that he ever realized how the
+roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made into an awful imitation of a
+divine drama that could only be acted in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed is
+hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity that seem to
+mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing and dangerous than
+the exultation of very small and secondary matters of conduct at the
+expense of very great and primary ones, at the expense of eternal ties
+and tragic human morality. If there is one thing worse than the modern
+weakening of major morals, it is the modern strengthening of minor
+morals. Thus it is considered more withering to accuse a man of bad
+taste than of bad ethics. Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays,
+for cleanliness is made essential and godliness is regarded as an
+offence. A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long as
+he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met Ibsenite
+pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right to take prussic
+acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene; notably such matters
+as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded, as it ought to be, as
+a matter of personal convenience and adjustment, it has come to be
+regarded by many as if it were a part of essential morals to get up
+early in the morning. It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but
+there is nothing good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+.....
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get
+up the night before. It is the great peril of our society that all its
+mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows more fickle.
+A man’s minor actions and arrangements ought to be free, flexible,
+creative; the things that should be unchangeable are his principles, his
+ideals. But with us the reverse is true; our views change constantly;
+but our lunch does not change. Now, I should like men to have strong and
+rooted conceptions, but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes
+in the garden, sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the
+top of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles, but let
+them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon. This alarming growth of
+good habits really means a too great emphasis on those virtues which
+mere custom can ensure, it means too little emphasis on those virtues
+which custom can never quite ensure, sudden and splendid virtues of
+inspired pity or of inspired candour. If ever that abrupt appeal is made
+to us we may fail. A man can get use to getting up at five o’clock in
+the morning. A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his
+opinions; the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little
+more attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed of an
+almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed (like
+journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done in bed (as,
+for example, the professional harpooners of whales), it is obvious that
+the indulgence must be very occasional. But that is not the caution
+I mean. The caution is this: if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it
+without any reason or justification at all. I do not speak, of course,
+of the seriously sick. But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it
+without a rag of excuse; then he will get up a healthy man. If he
+does it for some secondary hygienic reason, if he has some scientific
+explanation, he may get up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+
+
+XI. The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I
+was, so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden and
+arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea, and
+my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were also
+summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions of
+men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began with a
+C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping alphabetical
+way. At one official blow, so to speak, Battersea is denuded of all its
+C’s, and left to get on as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A
+Cumberpatch is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--three
+Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children are crying out
+for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street corner is weeping
+for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted. We settle down with a
+rollicking ease into our seats (for we are a bold, devil-may-care race,
+the C’s of Battersea), and an oath is administered to us in a totally
+inaudible manner by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his
+second childhood. We understand, however, that we are to well and truly
+try the case between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the
+bar, neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+.....
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner were,
+perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some adjoining public
+house, the prisoner’s head appears above the barrier of the dock; he
+is accused of stealing bicycles, and he is the living image of a great
+friend of mine. We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the prisoner in
+the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the conclusion, after a brief
+but reasonable discussion, that the King is not in any way implicated.
+Then we pass on to a woman who neglected her children, and who looks as
+if somebody or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who
+fancy that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances and the brain
+passed these light criticisms, there was in the heart a barbaric pity
+and fear which men have never been able to utter from the beginning, but
+which is the power behind half the poems of the world. The mood cannot
+even adequately be suggested, except faintly by this statement that
+tragedy is the highest expression of the infinite value of human
+life. Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away from
+pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these dark emotions
+at all, for speech about them is too difficult; but I mention them now
+for a specific and particular reason to the statement of which I will
+proceed at once. I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of
+them there came a curious realisation of a political or social truth. I
+saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what a jury really
+is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers because
+they fight better, trained singers because they sing better, trained
+dancers because they dance better, specially instructed laughers because
+they laugh better, and so on and so on. The principle has been applied
+to law and politics by innumerable modern writers. Many Fabians have
+insisted that a greater part of our political work should be performed
+by experts. Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should
+be altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+.....
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable, I do
+not know that there would be any fault to find with this. But the true
+result of all experience and the true foundation of all religion is
+this. That the four or five things that it is most practically essential
+that a man should know, are all of them what people call paradoxes. That
+is to say, that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty of seeming
+verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance, is the unimpeachable
+platitude that the man who finds most pleasure for himself is often the
+man who least hunts for it. Another is the paradox of courage; the fact
+that the way to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful cliff
+above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness. Whoever will
+lose his life, the same shall save it; an entirely practical and prosaic
+statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught to every
+infant prattling at his mother’s knee is the following: That the more a
+man looks at a thing, the less he can see it, and the more a man learns
+a thing the less he knows it. The Fabian argument of the expert,
+that the man who is trained should be the man who is trusted would be
+absolutely unanswerable if it were really true that a man who studied
+a thing and practiced it every day went on seeing more and more of its
+significance. But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its
+significance. In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we
+are continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility, seeing
+less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+.....
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of
+men. But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can to
+other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun. And
+the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best, about all
+judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen, is not
+that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they are stupid
+(several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply that they have got
+used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they see is
+the usual man in the usual place. They do not see the awful court of
+judgment; they only see their own workshop. Therefore, the instinct
+of Christian civilisation has most wisely declared that into their
+judgments there shall upon every occasion be infused fresh blood and
+fresh thoughts from the streets. Men shall come in who can see the court
+and the crowd, and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional
+criminals, the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture or a
+play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided, that determining
+the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too important to be trusted to
+trained men. It wishes for light upon that awful matter, it asks men who
+know no more law than I know, but who can feel the things that I felt
+in the jury box. When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system
+discovered, or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when
+it wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve of
+the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I remember
+right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+
+
+XII. The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf about
+the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks and roars in
+something that is at once exultation and agony. I feel, in fact, as if
+I were actually sitting at the bottom of the sea among mere anchors and
+ropes, while over my head and over the green twilight of water sounded
+the everlasting rush of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of
+tremendous ships. The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck
+them root and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy, the
+trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they were a tribe of
+dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible and violent
+witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind. I remember a little boy of
+my acquaintance who was once walking in Battersea Park under just such
+torn skies and tossing trees. He did not like the wind at all; it blew
+in his face too much; it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his
+hat, of which he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about
+four. After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said at
+last to his mother, “Well, why don’t you take away the trees, and then
+it wouldn’t wind.”
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake. Any
+one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy that they were
+indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere waving agitated the
+air around them for miles. Nothing, I say, could be more human and
+excusable than the belief that it is the trees which make the wind.
+Indeed, the belief is so human and excusable that it is, as a matter
+of fact, the belief of about ninety-nine out of a hundred of the
+philosophers, reformers, sociologists, and politicians of the great age
+in which we live. My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal
+modern thinkers; only much nicer.
+
+.....
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour of
+inventing, the trees stand for all visible things and the wind for the
+invisible. The wind is the spirit which bloweth where it listeth; the
+trees are the material things of the world which are blown where the
+spirit lists. The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees
+are cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind because
+the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad. We only know that there
+is a real revolution because all the chimney-pots go mad on the whole
+skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more ragged and
+rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails, so the human city rises
+under the wind of the spirit into toppling temples or sudden spires. No
+man has ever seen a revolution. Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood
+pouring down the gutters, the guillotine lifted higher than the throne,
+a prison in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind. So,
+also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that there is a
+revolution. And there never has been in the history of the world a real
+revolution, brutally active and decisive, which was not preceded by
+unrest and new dogma in the reign of invisible things. All revolutions
+began by being abstract. Most revolutions began by being quite
+pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved. So
+there must always be a battle in the sky before there is a battle on the
+earth. Since it is lawful to pray for the coming of the kingdom, it is
+lawful also to pray for the coming of the revolution that shall restore
+the kingdom. It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the
+trees. It is lawful to pray “Thine anger come on earth as it is in
+Heaven.”
+
+.....
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees. The great
+human heresy is that the trees move the wind. When people begin to
+say that the material circumstances have alone created the moral
+circumstances, then they have prevented all possibility of serious
+change. For if my circumstances have made me wholly stupid, how can I be
+certain even that I am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment is
+simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--including
+that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate authority is
+necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking. And nothing will
+ever be reformed in this age or country unless we realise that the moral
+fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard in
+debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists and
+total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty; the former
+say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their either of
+them being content with such simple physical explanations. Surely it
+is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat leads to
+poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink; the absence
+of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct that resists
+degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has this
+quality, which may strictly be called “hand to mouth,” because under
+its influence a man’s hand automatically seeks his own mouth, instead of
+seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor’s nose. And a man who
+says that the English inequality in land is due only to economic causes,
+or that the drunkenness of England is due only to economic causes, is
+saying something so absurd that he cannot really have thought what he
+was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under the
+influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the economic
+theory of history. We have people who represent that all great historic
+motives were economic, and then have to howl at the top of their voices
+in order to induce the modern democracy to act on economic motives. The
+extreme Marxian politicians in England exhibit themselves as a small,
+heroic minority, trying vainly to induce the world to do what, according
+to their theory, the world always does. The truth is, of course, that
+there will be a social revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be
+purely economic. You can never have a revolution in order to establish a
+democracy. You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+.....
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight rain have
+ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars in a clear sunlight.
+The tossing of the trees and the blowing of the wind have ceased
+simultaneously. So I suppose there are still modern philosophers who
+will maintain that the trees make the wind.
+
+
+
+
+XIII. The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw
+hat; with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers, but
+with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes. He was gazing with a
+rather gloomy interest at the cluster, one might almost say the tangle,
+of small shipping which grew thicker as our little pleasure boat crawled
+up into Yarmouth Harbour. A boat entering this harbour, as every one
+knows, does not enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps
+round at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear. The
+passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic, and in
+consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed under a timber
+ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens like a cathedral,
+the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden figurehead carved like a
+woman, and said, like one continuing a conversation, “Now, why have they
+left off having them. They didn’t do any one any harm?”
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain’s wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note. There has
+been something in our most recent civilisation which is mysteriously
+hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+“They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty,” he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. “I believe they broke up all the jolly old
+figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it.”
+
+“Like Mr. Quilp,” I answered, “when he battered the wooden Admiral with
+the poker.”
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time he stood
+erect and stared at me.
+
+“Do you come to Yarmouth for that?” he asked.
+
+“For what?”
+
+“For Dickens,” he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+“No,” I answered; “I come for fun, though that is much the same thing.”
+
+“I always come,” he answered quietly, “to find Peggotty’s boat. It isn’t
+here.”
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred to the people
+who live there. I myself have never come to the end of the list of
+Batterseas. But there are two to the stranger and tourist; the poor
+part, which is dignified, and the prosperous part, which is savagely
+vulgar. My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost; to the
+latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+“The place is very much spoilt now... trippers, you know,” he would say,
+not at all scornfully, but simply sadly. That was the nearest he would
+go to an admission of the monstrous watering place that lay along
+the front, outblazing the sun, and more deafening than the sea. But
+behind--out of earshot of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that
+they seem like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose. There
+are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one of them is
+like plunging into a pool. In these places the man and I paced up and
+down talking about Dickens, or, rather, doing what all true Dickensians
+do, telling each other verbatim long passages which both of us knew
+quite well already. We were really in the atmosphere of the older
+England. Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters like
+Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and bought pipe-stoppers
+carved into figures from Pickwick. The evening was settling down between
+all the buildings with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when
+we went into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+“Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant for the
+angel at the sepulchre.”
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+“I daresay,” he said. “What is there odd about that?”
+
+After a pause I said, “Do you remember what the angel at the sepulchre
+said?”
+
+“Not particularly,” he answered; “but where are you off to in such a
+hurry?”
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the fishermen’s
+almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring indignantly where I
+was going.
+
+“I am going,” I said, “to put pennies in automatic machines on the
+beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going to have my
+photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer out of its original
+bottle. I will buy some picture postcards. I do want a boat. I am ready
+to listen to a concertina, and but for the defects of my education
+should be ready to play it. I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is,
+if the donkey is willing. I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was
+commanded me by the angel in the stained-glass window.”
+
+“I really think,” said the Dickensian, “that I had better put you in
+charge of your relations.”
+
+“Sir,” I answered, “there are certain writers to whom humanity owes
+much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective a
+type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places or certain
+perishing associations. It would not be unnatural to look for the spirit
+of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill, or even for the shade of Thackeray
+in Old Kensington. But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for
+Dickens is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury, but he
+would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy, but it would
+be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it. We will not have all
+his books bound up under the title of ‘The Old Curiosity Shop.’ Rather
+we will have them all bound up under the title of ‘Great Expectations.’
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make something of it,
+swallow it with a holy cannibalism, and assimilate it with the digestion
+of a giant. We must take these trippers as he would have taken them, and
+tear out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember now what
+the angel said at the sepulchre? ‘Why seek ye the living among the dead?
+He is not here; he is risen.’”
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands, which
+were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite desperate
+democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory, flung far
+over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic firelight
+of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure looked at once
+grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell. I heard a little
+girl (who was being throttled by another little girl) say by way of
+self-vindication, “My sister-in-law ’as got four rings aside her weddin’
+ring!”
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+
+
+XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees and the
+secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world moving under
+the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor merely because I
+happened to be writing the article in a wood. Nevertheless, now that I
+return to Fleet Street (which seems to me, I confess, much better and
+more poetical than all the wild woods in the world), I am strangely
+haunted by this accidental comparison. The people’s figures seem a
+forest and their soul a wind. All the human personalities which speak or
+signal to me seem to have this fantastic character of the fringe of the
+forest against the sky. That man that talks to me, what is he but an
+articulate tree? That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me
+to tell me to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches
+stirred and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can
+continue to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering my
+person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that blast
+of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy? Gradually this
+impression of the woods wears off. But this black-and-white contrast
+between the visible and invisible, this deep sense that the one
+essential belief is belief in the invisible as against the visible,
+is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind. Exactly at
+the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is, most
+bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet, on
+which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+“Should Shop Assistants Marry?”
+
+.....
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well have turned upside
+down. The men in Fleet Street might have been walking about on their
+hands. The cross of St. Paul’s might have been hanging in the air upside
+down. For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe that the
+waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say, they believe
+that the material circumstances, however black and twisted, are more
+important than the spiritual realities, however powerful and pure.
+“Should Shop Assistants Marry?” I am puzzled to think what some periods
+and schools of human history would have made of such a question. The
+ascetics of the East or of some periods of the early Church would have
+thought that the question meant, “Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?” But
+I suppose that is not what the purple poster means. In some pagan cities
+it might have meant, “Shall slaves so vile as shop assistants even be
+allowed to propagate their abject race?” But I suppose that is not what
+the purple poster meant. We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what
+it does mean. It does really mean that a section of the human race
+is asking whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are
+particularly good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether
+Adam and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove. If this
+is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be. We ask whether
+the universal institution will improve our (please God) temporary
+institution. Yet I have known many such questions. For instance, I have
+known a man ask seriously, “Does Democracy help the Empire?” Which is
+like saying, “Is art favourable to frescoes?”
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked. But if the world
+ever runs short of them, I can suggest a large number of questions of
+precisely the same kind, based on precisely the same principle.
+
+“Do Feet Improve Boots?”--“Is Bread Better when Eaten?”--“Should
+Hats have Heads in them?”--“Do People Spoil a Town?”--“Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?”--“Should Neckties enclose Necks?”--“Do Hands Hurt
+Walking-sticks?”--“Does Burning Destroy Firewood?”--“Is Cleanliness Good
+for Soap?”--“Can Cricket Really Improve Cricket-bats?”--“Shall We Take
+Brides with our Wedding Rings?” and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport or in
+intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from the
+purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by half of the
+earnest economists of our times. All the questions they ask are of this
+character; they are all tinged with this same initial absurdity. They do
+not ask if the means is suited to the end; they all ask (with profound
+and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited to the means. They do
+not ask whether the tail suits the dog. They all ask whether a dog is
+(by the highest artistic canons) the most ornamental appendage that can
+be put at the end of a tail. In short, instead of asking whether our
+modern arrangements, our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete
+institutions are suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy
+human life, they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments; and then they
+only ask whether that healthy human life is suited to our streets and
+trades. Perfection may be attainable or unattainable as an end. It may
+or may not be possible to talk of imperfection as a means to perfection.
+But surely it passes toleration to talk of perfection as a means to
+imperfection. The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream. But
+surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem is a reality
+on the road to Birmingham.
+
+.....
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret of the
+modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought to be simple
+enough. A really human human being would always put the spiritual
+things first. A walking and speaking statue of God finds himself at
+one particular moment employed as a shop assistant. He has in himself
+a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity, a thirst for some
+loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary course of things he
+asks himself, “How far do the existing conditions of those assisting in
+shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny in the matter of love and
+marriage?” But here, as I have said, comes in the quiet and crushing
+power of modern materialism. It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he
+would otherwise do. By perpetually talking about environment and visible
+things, by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron machinery
+and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of towers of stone, modern
+materialism at last produces this tremendous impression in which the
+truth is stated upside down. At last the result is achieved. The man
+does not say as he ought to have said, “Should married men endure being
+modern shop assistants?” The man says, “Should shop assistants marry?”
+ Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism. The
+slave does not say, “Are these chains worthy of me?” The slave says
+scientifically and contentedly, “Am I even worthy of these chains?”
+
+
+
+
+XV. What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have made
+the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat, with an astracan
+moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache. Whether he put on the
+moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic will enabled him not
+only to grow a moustache in the usual place, but also to grow little
+moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know. I only remember that he
+said to me the following words: “A man can’t get on nowadays by hanging
+about with his hands in his pockets.” I made reply with the quite
+obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got on by having his hands in other
+people’s pockets; whereupon he began to argue about Moral Evolution, so
+I suppose what I said had some truth in it. But the incident now comes
+back to me, and connects itself with another incident--if you can call
+it an incident--which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I had
+at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief; I
+had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets are still
+there; the same presumption applies to the things that I have dropped
+into the sea. But I regard the riches stored in both these bottomless
+chasms with the same reverent ignorance. They tell us that on the
+last day the sea will give up its dead; and I suppose that on the same
+occasion long strings of extraordinary things will come running out of
+my pockets. But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all surprised
+at finding among them.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence. I here only wish
+briefly to recall the special, extraordinary, and hitherto unprecedented
+circumstances which led me in cold blood, and being of sound mind, to
+turn out my pockets. I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a
+rather long journey. The time was towards evening, but it might have
+been anything, for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting sheet of
+quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers. I had not even a
+pencil and a scrap of paper with which to write a religious epic. There
+were no advertisements on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could
+have plunged into the study, for any collection of printed words is
+quite enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity. When
+I find myself opposite the words “Sunlight Soap” I can exhaust all the
+aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer poetry before I go on to the
+less congenial subject of soap. But there was no printed word or picture
+anywhere; there was nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank
+wet without. Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can be,
+uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats, and
+began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood. Just as I had
+begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ was a carpenter,
+rather than a bricklayer, or a baker, or anything else, I suddenly
+started upright, and remembered my pockets. I was carrying about with
+me an unknown treasury. I had a British Museum and a South Kensington
+collection of unknown curios hung all over me in different places. I
+began to take the things out.
+
+.....
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of Battersea
+tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase. They shook
+down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course, they touched my
+patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes; also they provided me
+with the printed matter I required, for I found on the back of them some
+short but striking little scientific essays about some kind of pill.
+Comparatively speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might
+be regarded as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my
+railway journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a
+few months longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the
+controversial aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro
+and con upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the cross
+of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper meant all
+that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the greatest hope of
+England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife, I
+need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral meditations
+all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most primary of those
+practical origins upon which as upon low, thick pillows all our human
+civilisation reposes. Metals, the mystery of the thing called iron and
+of the thing called steel, led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream.
+I saw into the intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among
+all the common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth. I saw all the
+swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war. For the knife is
+only a short sword; and the pocket-knife is a secret sword. I opened it
+and looked at that brilliant and terrible tongue which we call a blade;
+and I thought that perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs
+of man. The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing that came
+next out of my pocket was a box of matches. Then I saw fire, which is
+stronger even than steel, the old, fierce female thing, the thing we all
+love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw in it all the art
+and all the frescoes of the world. The next was a coin of a very modest
+value; and I saw in it not only the image and superscription of our own
+Caesar, but all government and order since the world began. But I have
+not space to say what were the items in the long and splendid procession
+of poetical symbols that came pouring out. I cannot tell you all the
+things that were in my pocket. I can tell you one thing, however, that I
+could not find in my pocket. I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+
+
+XVI. The Dragon’s Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales. I do not
+mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated in them--that he
+did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into a coach. He did, indeed,
+entertain this curious disbelief. And, like all the other people I
+have ever met who entertained it, he was wholly unable to give me an
+intelligent reason for it. He tried the laws of nature, but he soon
+dropped that. Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary
+experience, and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted
+pumpkinity. But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply the attitude we
+adopt towards all unusual occurrences. If we were certain of miracles
+we should not count on them. Things that happen very seldom we all leave
+out of our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not. I do not
+expect a glass of water to be turned into wine; but neither do I expect
+a glass of water to be poisoned with prussic acid. I do not in ordinary
+business relations act on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but
+neither do I act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is not that the
+natural order is unalterable, but simply that it is much safer to bet
+on uncommon incidents than on common ones. This does not touch the
+credibility of any attested tale about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned
+into a coach. If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined to assume
+that the same thing would happen again. I should not invest largely in
+pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade. Cinderella got a ball dress
+from the fairy; but I do not suppose that she looked after her own
+clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened, though crazy,
+is common. The man I speak of disbelieved in fairy tales in an even more
+amazing and perverted sense. He actually thought that fairy tales
+ought not to be told to children. That is (like a belief in slavery
+or annexation) one of those intellectual errors which lie very near to
+ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which, though they may be
+done what is called conscientiously, yet carry so much of their whole
+horror in the very act of them, that a man must in doing them not only
+harden but slightly corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of
+milk to young mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+.....
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too helpless even
+to find his way to the Church of England. He had a curious green necktie
+and a very long neck; I am always meeting idealists with very long
+necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal aspiration slowly lifts their
+heads nearer and nearer to the stars. Or perhaps it has something to
+do with the fact that so many of them are vegetarians: perhaps they are
+slowly evolving the neck of the giraffe so that they can eat all the
+tops of the trees in Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense
+above me. Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy
+tales; and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had begun
+to read “Grimm’s Fairy tales” as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was “Suburban Sue: A Tale of
+Psychology,” and also “Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia”; there was
+“Trixy: A Temperament,” and “Man-Hate: A Monochrome,” and all those nice
+things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough, I grew
+tired of them at last, and when I saw “Grimm’s Fairy Tales” lying
+accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy. Here at least,
+here at last, one could find a little common sense. I opened the book,
+and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying words, “The Dragon’s
+Grandmother.” That at least was reasonable; that at least was true. “The
+Dragon’s Grandmother!” While I was rolling this first touch of ordinary
+human reality upon my tongue, I looked up suddenly and saw this monster
+with a green tie standing in the doorway.
+
+.....
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough, I hope;
+but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe in fairy
+tales, I broke out beyond control. “Man,” I said, “who are you that you
+should not believe in fairy tales? It is much easier to believe in Blue
+Beard than to believe in you. A blue beard is a misfortune; but there
+are green ties which are sins. It is far easier to believe in a million
+fairy tales than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales. I
+would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all his stories
+as if they were thirty-nine articles than say seriously and out of
+my heart that there can be such a man as you; that you are not some
+temptation of the devil or some delusion from the void. Look at these
+plain, homely, practical words. ‘The Dragon’s Grandmother,’ that is all
+right; that is rational almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was
+a dragon, he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother! If you
+had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales. You had no
+father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you. You cannot
+be. I believe many things which I have not seen; but of such things
+as you it may be said, ‘Blessed is he that has seen and yet has
+disbelieved.’”
+
+.....
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy, so I
+moderated my tone. “Can you not see,” I said, “that fairy tales in their
+essence are quite solid and straightforward; but that this everlasting
+fiction about modern life is in its nature essentially incredible?
+Folk-lore means that the soul is sane, but that the universe is wild
+and full of marvels. Realism means that the world is dull and full of
+routine, but that the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the
+fairy tale is--what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The
+problem of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins, and
+suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos. In the
+excellent tale of ‘The Dragon’s Grandmother,’ in all the other tales of
+Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his travels
+will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave, full
+of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents, keep his word,
+rescue one kind of people, defy another kind, ‘parcere subjectis et
+debellare,’ etc. Then, having assumed this centre of sanity, the writer
+entertains himself by fancying what would happen if the whole world went
+mad all round it, if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses
+had six legs and giants had two heads. But your modern literature
+takes insanity as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of
+insanity. A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite
+serious; that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is a
+piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass. A man who
+thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken. It is only
+sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity. Therefore, these
+wise old tales made the hero ordinary and the tale extraordinary.
+But you have made the hero extraordinary and the tale ordinary--so
+ordinary--oh, so very ordinary.”
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me under the
+hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, “In the name of God
+and Democracy and the Dragon’s grandmother--in the name of all good
+things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more.” Whether
+or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt that he
+definitely went away.
+
+
+
+
+XVII. The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him I can
+never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest letter
+saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even if
+they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy tales,
+because it frightens them. You might just as well say that it is cruel
+to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry. All this
+kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting of what a child is
+like which has been the firm foundation of so many educational schemes.
+If you keep bogies and goblins away from children they would make them
+up for themselves. One small child in the dark can invent more hells
+than Swedenborg. One small child can imagine monsters too big and
+black to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly and
+cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic. The child, to
+begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he continues to indulge in them
+even when he does not like them. There is just as much difficulty in
+saying exactly where pure pain begins in his case, as there is in ours
+when we walk of our own free will into the torture-chamber of a great
+tragedy. The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+.....
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable; they are
+alarmed at this world, because this world is a very alarming place. They
+dislike being alone because it is verily and indeed an awful idea to be
+alone. Barbarians fear the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics
+worship it--because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear; fairy
+tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly; that is
+in the child already, because it is in the world already. Fairy tales
+do not give the child his first idea of bogey. What fairy tales give the
+child is his first clear idea of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby
+has known the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination. What
+the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him for a series
+of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless terrors had a limit,
+that these shapeless enemies have enemies in the knights of God, that
+there is something in the universe more mystical than darkness, and
+stronger than strong fear. When I was a child I have stared at the
+darkness until the whole black bulk of it turned into one negro giant
+taller than heaven. If there was one star in the sky it only made him a
+Cyclops. But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite equal
+dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself (of similar
+inexperience and even lower social status) by means of a sword, some
+bad riddles, and a brave heart. Sometimes the sea at night seemed as
+dreadful as any dragon. But then I was acquainted with many youngest
+sons and little sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the
+sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm’s tales in incident and imagery, the
+excellent tale of the “Boy who Could not Shudder,” and you will see what
+I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale. I remember specially
+a man’s legs which fell down the chimney by themselves and walked about
+the room, until they were rejoined by the severed head and body which
+fell down the chimney after them. That is very good. But the point
+of the story and the point of the reader’s feelings is not that these
+things are frightening, but the far more striking fact that the hero was
+not frightened at them. The most fearful of all these fearful wonders
+was his own absence of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked
+the devils to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled
+with some modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his
+spirit. If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it; it is
+the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught to shudder
+by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him. In that one
+sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage than in all the
+books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+.....
+
+At the four corners of a child’s bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd
+and St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone. For
+the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in the
+universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted; but
+the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied. As I told “H.
+N. B.” (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its most superstitious
+sense), the one thing modern people really do believe in is damnation.
+The greatest of purely modern poets summed up the really modern attitude
+in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+“There may be Heaven; there must be Hell.”
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition; and the
+new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin by being
+gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits. Now they are
+beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+.....
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they should
+make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion. For almost all
+the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new, is solemn and sad.
+Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian saints were a little
+too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism are both lawless and
+serious--a disgusting combination. The specially contemporary spirits
+are not only devils, they are blue devils. This is, first and last, the
+real value of Christmas; in so far as the mythology remains at all it
+is a kind of happy mythology. Personally, of course, I believe in Santa
+Claus; but it is the season of forgiveness, and I will forgive others
+for not doing so. But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the
+defect in our world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for
+instance, to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called “The Turn of the
+Screw.” It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is
+one of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to
+have been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of the
+foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether Mr.
+Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent, do not
+buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question so doubtful
+that I will give that truly great man a chance. I will approve the thing
+as well as admire it if he will write another tale just as powerful
+about two children and Santa Claus. If he will not, or cannot, then the
+conclusion is clear; we can deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not
+with happy mystery; we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+.....
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil. That is
+exactly what I mean.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII. The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought (though
+not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies of
+architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve the one
+startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts. But this sort of
+sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy and energy
+of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most prosaic
+landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings. Here
+Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable. Here the fields
+are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand, the streets and
+roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind. The waters of wood
+and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly as if they were in the London
+water-pipes. But the parish pump is carved with all the creatures out of
+the wilderness. Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of
+wild animals, but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music
+that are more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast
+at night. And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their
+strength, seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the
+primal mire, and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a
+startled bird.
+
+.....
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit in
+humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only man
+who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man is ever
+undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who are wild.
+And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to all human art,
+it is also generally characteristic of Christian art among the arts
+of the world. This is what people really mean when they say that
+Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance. As a matter of
+historic fact, it didn’t; it arose in the most equably civilised period
+the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks the outline
+of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots with anger the
+blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry charge the horses
+of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage, in the sense that it is
+primeval; there is in it a touch of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate
+in which I had praised militant music in ritual, and some one asked me
+if I could imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ definitely
+approved a natural noisiness at a great moment. When the street children
+shouted too loud, certain priggish disciples did begin to rebuke them in
+the name of good taste. He said: “If these were silent the very stones
+would cry out.” With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words He
+founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this, which seems to
+have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves, anywhere and anyhow, any odd
+brick or moulding may be carved off into a shouting face. The front of
+vast buildings is thronged with open mouths, angels praising God, or
+devils defying Him. Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to
+scream. The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable in
+the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant things
+in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All Christian
+temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges Belfry is a
+gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like a giraffe. The
+same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind at every corner of
+a Flemish town. And if any one asks, “Why did the people of these flat
+countries instinctively raise these riotous and towering monuments?” the
+only answer one can give is, “Because they were the people of these
+flat countries.” If any one asks, “Why the men of Bruges sacrificed
+architecture and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?”
+ we can only answer, “Because Nature gave them no encouragement to do
+so.”
+
+.....
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some of my
+friends in London who are quite sure of how children will turn out
+if you give them what they call “the right environment.” It is a
+troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works positively
+and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two. A beautiful
+environment may make a child love beauty; it may make him bored with
+beauty; most likely the two effects will mix and neutralise each other.
+Most likely, that is, the environment will make hardly any difference at
+all. In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries that had
+owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country is
+hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold; Englishmen
+naval because they are islanders; Switzers free because they are
+mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way. Only unfortunately I am
+quite certain that I could make up quite as long a list exactly contrary
+in its argument point-blank against the influence of their geographical
+environment. Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than
+Scandinavians because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as bravely as Switzers
+because the Dutch have no mountains. Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many
+Mediterranean peoples have specially hated the sea because they had the
+nicest sea to deal with, the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the
+list for ever. But however long it was, two examples would certainly
+stand up in it as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the
+Swiss, who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far the most
+mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe. The other is that
+the people of Belgium, who live in a country like a carpet, have, by an
+inner energy, desired to exalt their towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment, I cannot
+comfort myself with the thought that the modern discussions about
+environment are of much practical value. But I think I will not write
+any more about these modern theories, but go on looking at the Belfry
+of Bruges. I would give them the greater attention if I were not pretty
+well convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+
+
+XIX. How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making a bright
+suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not, I regret to
+say, received with the seriousness it deserved. I suggested that a band
+of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves, should express our
+sense of the pathos of the President’s and the Republic’s fate by
+growing Kruger beards under our chins. I imagined how abruptly this
+decoration would alter the appearance of Mr. John Morley; how startling
+it would be as it emerged from under the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But
+the younger men, my own friends, on whom I more particularly urged
+it, men whose names are in many cases familiar to the readers of this
+paper--Mr. Masterman’s for instance, and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt,
+being young and beautiful, would do even more justice to the Kruger
+beard, and when walking down the street with it could not fail to
+attract attention. The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to
+the Rhodes hat. An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in
+Africa is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat; the
+Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing like a beard;
+we have shaved it, and it is growing again. The Kruger beard would
+represent time and the natural processes. You cannot grow a beard in a
+moment of passion.
+
+.....
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town. I went
+down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards an
+election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for the Liberal
+candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in. I sometimes lie
+awake at night and meditate upon that mystery; but it must not detain us
+now. The rather singular incident which happened to me then, and which
+some recent events have recalled to me, happened while the canvassing
+was still going on. It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine,
+settling everywhere on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out
+into a kind of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if the bushes
+and the roads were human, and had kindness like men; as if the tree were
+a good giant with one wooden leg; as if the very line of palings were a
+row of good-tempered gnomes. On one side of the white, sprawling road a
+low hill or down showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the
+other the land tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip
+hills. The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful and
+beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon a low white
+building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows, evidently not
+inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--a thing more
+like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind. Made idle by the heat,
+I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk out of my pocket, began
+drawing aimlessly on the back door--drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain,
+and finally the ideal Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials
+did not permit of any delicate rendering of his noble and national
+expansion of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for
+man, and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy, I was
+frozen to the spot with terror. The black door, which I thought no more
+of than the lid of an empty box, began slowly to open, impelled from
+within by a human hand. And President Kruger himself came out into the
+sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled the
+Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes, there was
+the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger beard which
+I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under the features
+of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I was too much
+emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone lions with him, or
+Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark shed I cannot imagine,
+but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger in
+Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in the
+neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me. Mr. Kruger
+regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye, and then addressed
+me with a strong Somersetshire accent. A curious cold shock went through
+me to hear that inappropriate voice coming out of that familiar form.
+It was as if you met a Chinaman, with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he
+began to talk broad Scotch. But the next moment, of course, I understood
+the situation. We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the
+Boer education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot against
+our island home, the terrible President had learnt not only English, but
+all the dialects at a moment’s notice to win over a Lancashire merchant
+or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier. No doubt, if I asked him, this
+stout old gentleman could grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk,
+and so on, like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if
+our plain, true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so
+penetrated with culture as this.
+
+.....
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all that this
+strange old man gave me. When he asked me, dryly enough, but not without
+a certain steady civility that belongs to old-fashioned country people,
+what I wanted and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities of the
+Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became suddenly transfigured
+in the sunlight into a devil of wrath. It was some time before I could
+understand a word he said, but the one word that kept on recurring was
+the word “Kruger,” and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of
+violent terms. Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want
+him to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was... and here he
+became once more obscure. The one thing that he made quite clear was
+that he wouldn’t do anything for Kruger.
+
+“But you ARE Kruger,” burst from my lips, in a natural explosion of
+reasonableness. “You ARE Kruger, aren’t you?”
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first there would
+be a fight, and I remembered with regret that the President in early
+life had had a hobby of killing lions. But really I began to think that
+I had been mistaken, and that it was not the President after all. There
+was a confounding sincerity in the anger with which he declared that he
+was Farmer Bowles, and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually
+and parted from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me
+with a few tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of
+his identity. In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an
+illustrated paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer
+Bowles were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group of
+Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant, were
+perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed to me like
+the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll, when he
+drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze with the blue Tory
+ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his colours everywhere. It
+was evening, and the warm western light was on the grey hair and heavy
+massive features of that good old man. I knew as one knows a fact of
+sense that if Spanish and German stockbrokers had flooded his farm
+or country he would have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an
+Irishman, but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the
+Boer. I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his cross
+against the Conservative name. Then he came out again, having given his
+vote and looking more like Kruger than ever. And at the same hour on
+the same night thousands upon thousands of English Krugers gave the
+same vote. And thus Kruger was pulled down and the dark-faced men in the
+photograph reigned in his stead.
+
+
+
+
+XX. The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is
+great. All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks. At
+least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work by night
+(journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers, and such
+mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning) must often have
+stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown of battlements
+or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at daybreak to discover
+that it was only a haberdasher’s shop with huge gold letters across the
+face of it.
+
+.....
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight. I sat down
+on a bench with my back to the river, happening to choose such a place
+that a huge angle and façade of building jutting out from the Strand
+sat above me like an incubus. I dare say that if I took the same seat
+to-morrow by daylight I should find the impression entirely false. In
+sunlight the thing might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness
+it seemed as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have
+I had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth. That
+pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above and
+beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb. I had an
+irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I had to fight
+it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion but an indolent
+journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black, blind
+face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge face of a sleeping
+giant; the eyes were too close together, and gave it the suggestion of a
+bestial sneer. And either by accident of this light or of some other, I
+could now read the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything that I
+should like to pull down with my hands if I could. Reared by a detected
+robber, it is framed to be the fashionable and luxurious home of
+undetected robbers. In the house of man are many mansions; but there is
+a class of men who feel normal nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or
+in Dartmoor Gaol. That big black face, which was staring at me with its
+flaming eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer; the hour had
+come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again (I had had one wild
+impulse to climb up the front of the hotel and fall in at one of the
+windows), and I tried to think, as all decent people are thinking, what
+one can really do. And all the time that oppressive wall went up in
+front of me, and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+.....
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been the defeated
+who have won. The people who were left worst at the end of the war
+were generally the people who were left best at the end of the whole
+business. For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the
+Christians. But they did not end in the decline of the Christians; they
+ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave of Moslem
+power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns of Christendom,
+that wave was broken, and never came on again. The Crusaders had saved
+Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem. The same applies to that epic of
+Republican war in the eighteenth century to which we Liberals owe our
+political creed. The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came
+back across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had lost its
+last battle; but it had gained its first object. It had cut a chasm.
+The world has never been the same since. No one after that has ever been
+able to treat the poor merely as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere stones of the
+street; but as stones that may sometimes fly. If it please God, you and
+I may see some of the stones flying again before we see death. But here
+I only remark the interesting fact that the conquered almost always
+conquer. Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds. The
+Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment; it
+deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock and jar the
+unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil; just as a pebble on
+a railway can stagger the Scotch express. It is enough for the great
+martyrs and criminals of the French revolution, that they have surprised
+for all time the secret weakness of the strong. They have awakened and
+set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever the coward in the hearts
+of kings.
+
+.....
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his experience was
+not such as has been generally supposed. If you care to hear it I will
+tell you the real story of Jack the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the
+most awful thing which Jack first felt about the giant was that he was
+not a giant. He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and
+against its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a
+figure in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man was
+treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain. The man
+came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger, and at the instant
+when he passed the possible stature of humanity Jack almost screamed.
+The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle; the more he became
+incredible the more he became solid. The less one could believe in him
+the more plainly one could see him. It was unbearable that so much of
+the sky should be occupied by one human face. His eyes, which had stood
+out like bow windows, became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that
+could contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes. Jack’s
+intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism of the face that
+filled the sky; his last hope was submerged, his five wits all still
+with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of
+dead honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his
+hand. He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and
+when he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a
+cave. Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant
+on it with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the
+hilt, and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant
+felt a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great
+hand for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and
+stared at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw him
+away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were flying from
+system to system through the universe of stars. But, as the giant had
+thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike a stone, but struck soft
+mire by the side of a distant river. There he lay insensible for several
+hours; but when he awoke again his horrible conqueror was still in
+sight. He was striding away across the void and wooded plain towards
+where it ended in the sea; and by this time he was only much higher than
+any of the hills. He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really
+high mountain grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway
+train. Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic. Then
+the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big blue sea, and
+even as it did so it altered its attitude. Jack, stunned and bleeding,
+lifted himself laboriously upon one elbow to stare. The giant once more
+caught hold of his ankle, wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over
+into the great sea which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all
+things God has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+
+
+XXI. A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has always
+seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing away the veils
+from private life; but it seems to me to be always dropping diaphanous
+but blinding veils between men and men. The Yellow Press is abused for
+exposing facts which are private; I wish the Yellow Press did anything
+so valuable. It is exactly the decisive individual touches that it never
+gives; and a proof of this is that after one has met a man a million
+times in the newspapers it is always a complete shock and reversal to
+meet him in real life. The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of
+catching the first fresh fact about a man that dominates all after
+impressions. For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that
+he spoke with a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of
+sentiment; but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other criticisms
+put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out private
+personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities on the
+surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression of this kind
+which we have all felt when we met great poets or politicians, but which
+never finds its way into the newspapers. I mean the impression that
+they are much older than we thought they were. We connect great men with
+their great triumphs, which generally happened some years ago, and many
+recruits enthusiastic for the thin Napoleon of Marengo must have found
+themselves in the presence of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising
+politician confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of
+boyhood. It described how his “brave young voice” rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose: all
+this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once met
+a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+.....
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening. It
+was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set an instant
+after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened and the road
+sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents; I felt that the
+treetops that closed above me were the fixed and real things, certain as
+the level of the sea; but that the solid earth was every instant failing
+under my feet. In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in
+splashes, like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky. Around
+me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every plain or
+twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns of every earthly
+and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature of the
+forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force. For the meaning of
+woods is the combination of energy with complexity. A forest is not
+in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense with delicacy. Unique
+shapes that an artist would copy or a philosopher watch for years if he
+found them in an open plain are here mingled and confounded; but it is
+not a darkness of deformity. It is a darkness of life; a darkness of
+perfection. And I began to think how much of the highest human obscurity
+is like this, and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell
+you, for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate; it
+is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+.....
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out into
+deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the evening was
+so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a sunset all to
+itself. I went along that road according to directions that had been
+given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling beyond which the
+wood changed only faintly to a garden. It was as if the curious courtesy
+and fineness of that character I was to meet went out from him upon the
+valley; for I felt on all these things the finger of that quality which
+the old English called “faërie”; it is the quality which those can never
+understand who think of the past as merely brutal; it is an ancient
+elegance such as there is in trees. I went through the garden and saw
+an old man sitting by a table, looking smallish in his big chair. He
+was already an invalid, and his hair and beard were both white; not like
+snow, for snow is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even
+fierce; rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand, and
+I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young. He was the one
+great man of the old world whom I have met who was not a mere statue
+over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about the
+books he had written; he was far too much alive for that. He talked
+about the books he had not written. He unrolled a purple bundle of
+romances which he had never had time to sell. He asked me to write one
+of the stories for him, as he would have asked the milkman, if he had
+been talking to the milkman. It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort
+of astronomical farce. It was all about a man who was rushing up to the
+Royal Society with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying
+comet; and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities; how he lost
+a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling. That is only one
+of them; there were ten or twenty more. Another, I dimly remember, was
+a version of the fall of Parnell; the idea that a quite honest man might
+be secret from a pure love of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went
+out of that garden with a blurred sensation of the million possibilities
+of creative literature. The feeling increased as my way fell back into
+the wood; for a wood is a palace with a million corridors that cross
+each other everywhere. I really had the feeling that I had seen the
+creative quality; which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls
+the Old Man of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind
+my path; I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+
+
+XXII. The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert that the love
+of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them; and so, perhaps, it
+would, if they had it. There is a very real thing which may be called
+the love of humanity; in our time it exists almost entirely among what
+are called uneducated people; and it does not exist at all among the
+people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being is
+chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday; that is
+why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances) than any other
+part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty train
+at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them; they all
+got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the train entirely
+empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is the definite pleasure
+in the immediate proximity of one’s own kind. Only this coarse, rank,
+real love of men seems to be entirely lacking in those who propose
+the love of humanity as a substitute for all other love; honourable,
+rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked the sudden
+starting of that train; all the factory girls who could not find seats
+(and they must have been the majority) relieving their feelings by
+jumping up and down. Now I have never seen any rationalistic idealists
+do this. I have never seen twenty modern philosophers crowd into one
+third-class carriage for the mere pleasure of being together. I have
+never seen twenty Mr. McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and
+down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun all
+beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches. But their fear
+is unreasonable; because trippers always prefer to trip together;
+they pack as close as they can; they have a suffocating passion of
+philanthropy.
+
+.....
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle, I have no
+hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber. Before any
+modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist (I insist
+with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased when his barber
+tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity: let him love that. If he
+is not pleased at this, I will not accept any substitute in the way of
+interest in the Congo or the future of Japan. If a man cannot love his
+barber whom he has seen, how shall he love the Japanese whom he has not
+seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about the
+weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest. It
+is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him; he is blamed
+because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist, and because,
+being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave. But the only proof of
+such things is by example; therefore I will prove the excellence of the
+conversation of barbers by a specific case. Lest any one should accuse
+me of attempting to prove it by fictitious means, I beg to say quite
+seriously that though I forget the exact language employed, the
+following conversation between me and a human (I trust), living barber
+really took place a few days ago.
+
+.....
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers, and
+lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out
+of the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get
+shaved. While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+“There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir. It
+seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone or a
+pole or a poker” (here I began for the first time to detect a sarcastic
+intonation) “or a shovel or a----”
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about the
+matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+“Or a button-hook,” I said, “or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram or a
+piston-rod----”
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, “Or a curtain rod or a
+candle-stick, or a----”
+
+“Cow-catcher,” I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic
+duet for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told
+me. He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+“The funny part of it is,” he said, “that the thing isn’t new at all.
+It’s been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before. There is
+always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow. But none
+of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don’t believe myself that
+this will.”
+
+“Why, as to that,” I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying to
+put on my coat inside out, “I don’t know how it may be in the case of
+you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you, is a trivial
+and materialistic thing, and in such things startling inventions are
+sometimes made. But what you say reminds me in some dark and dreamy
+fashion of something else. I recall it especially when you tell me,
+with such evident experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not
+really new. My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of
+making everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts
+off one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil of
+preparing a man’s chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil of
+preparing something very curious to put on a man’s chin. It would be
+nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody. It would be nicer
+still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ “‘But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.’
+
+“Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+“In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written that a man
+shall not eat his cake and have it; and though all men talked until the
+stars were old it would still be true that a man who has lost his razor
+could not shave with it. But every now and then men jump up with the new
+something or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there is no real
+difference between being shaved and not being shaved. The difference,
+they say, is only a difference of degree; everything is evolutionary
+and relative. Shavedness is immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is
+a Potential Razor. The superstitious people of the past (they say)
+believed that a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to
+one’s face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches us
+better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow where Shaving
+should be.
+
+“Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something. But a
+baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby he will know
+whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing up being shaved and
+being saved; my democratic sympathies have always led me to drop my
+‘h’s.’ In another moment I may suggest that goats represent the
+lost because goats have long beards. This is growing altogether too
+allegorical.
+
+“Nevertheless,” I added, as I paid the bill, “I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving. Have
+you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?”
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII. The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys takes so
+very much more time and trouble than anything else. Playing as children
+mean playing is the most serious thing in the world; and as soon as we
+have small duties or small sorrows we have to abandon to some extent
+so enormous and ambitious a plan of life. We have enough strength
+for politics and commerce and art and philosophy; we have not enough
+strength for play. This is a truth which every one will recognize who,
+as a child, has ever played with anything at all; any one who has played
+with bricks, any one who has played with dolls, any one who has played
+with tin soldiers. My journalistic work, which earns money, is not
+pursued with such awful persistency as that work which earned nothing.
+
+.....
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow in twelve
+volumes (it would be just like you) on “The Theory and Practice
+of European Architecture,” your work may be laborious, but it is
+fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work of a child piling
+one brick on the other is serious; for the simple reason that if your
+book is a bad book no one will ever be able ultimately and entirely to
+prove to you that it is a bad book. Whereas if his balance of bricks
+is a bad balance of bricks, it will simply tumble down. And if I know
+anything of children, he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it
+up again. Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce
+you to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you could
+help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after a
+child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play as
+idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol has
+actually become more important than the human reality which it was, I
+suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll’s perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: “I haven’t got a dolly, and Baby is pretending to
+be my dolly.” Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had been a
+substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute for a
+doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such devotion
+takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if it were
+really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point is that
+the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist; the child
+playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: “This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his
+being short of stores.” The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey’s activity was due to his being short of stores. Otherwise
+he would have stood quite still while he was chased. I run after Jones
+with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries to get rid of me the
+only possible explanation is that he has a very small balance at his
+bankers. I cannot believe that any boy playing at soldiers would be as
+idiotic as this. But then any one playing at anything has to be serious.
+Whereas, as I have only too good reason to know, if you are writing an
+article you can say anything that comes into your head.
+
+.....
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children’s games is,
+generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure in them; it is simply
+that they have no leisure for them. It is that they cannot afford the
+expenditure of toil and time and consideration for so grand and grave a
+scheme. I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre that used to be
+called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured; only that I drew and coloured
+the figures and scenes myself. Hence I was free from the degrading
+obligation of having to pay either a penny or twopence; I only had to
+pay a shilling a sheet for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad
+water colours. The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar
+to every one; it is never more than a development of the stage which
+Skelt made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I ever
+worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work seems
+too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself to lighter
+employments; such as the biographies of great men. The play of “St.
+George and the Dragon,” over which I have burnt the midnight oil (you
+must colour the thing by lamplight because that is how it will be seen),
+still lacks most conspicuously, alas! two wings of the Sultan’s Palace,
+and also some comprehensible and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours. But it is
+partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble. If I am
+ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have enough
+time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I shall have
+enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play in them
+without a hitch.
+
+.....
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one’s
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need to learn
+could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered, it reminds us
+of the main principle of art, the principle which is in most danger
+of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact that art consists of
+limitation; the fact that art is limitation. Art does not consist in
+expanding things. Art consists of cutting things down, as I cut down
+with a pair of scissors my very ugly figures of St. George and the
+Dragon. Plato, who liked definite ideas, would like my cardboard dragon;
+for though the creature has few other artistic merits he is at least
+dragonish. The modern philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome
+to a sheet of the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the
+theatrical art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing
+through a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even
+at the Court Theatre or His Majesty’s you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small theatre
+exactly is that you are looking through a small window. Has not every
+one noticed how sweet and startling any landscape looks when seen
+through an arch? This strong, square shape, this shutting off of
+everything else is not only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential
+of beauty. The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing the scale
+of events it can introduce much larger events. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the Day of Judgment. Exactly in so far as it is
+limited, so far it could play easily with falling cities or with falling
+stars. Meanwhile the big theatres are obliged to be economical because
+they are big. When we have understood this fact we shall have understood
+something of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier into
+the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia. In the
+narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room for Purgatory
+and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled by the British Empire.
+Great empires are necessarily prosaic; for it is beyond human power to
+act a great poem upon so great a scale. You can only represent very big
+ideas in very small spaces. My toy theatre is as philosophical as the
+drama of Athens.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been long and pleasant,
+but--perhaps for that very reason--I feel that the time has come when I
+ought to confess the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time
+ago; but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse to reveal
+such dark episodes long after they have occurred. It has nothing to do
+with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League. That body is so offensively
+respectable that a newspaper, in describing it the other day, referred
+to my friend Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is not by the
+conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton, of the Rev. James
+Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that fine and virile old
+ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish (or rather, am driven by
+my conscience) to make this declaration. The crime was committed in
+solitude and without accomplices. Alone I did it. Let me, with the
+characteristic thirst of penitents to get the worst of the confession
+over, state it first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he has died
+of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper to whom I still
+owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant knowing that I owed
+him twopence. I carried it away under his nose, despite the fact that
+the nose was a decidedly Jewish one. I have never paid him, and it is
+highly improbable that I ever shall. How did this villainy come to occur
+in a life which has been, generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity
+necessary for fraud? The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though
+there may not be room for that.
+
+.....
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that the
+easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy. The
+most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities. The
+reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint. How, for
+instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would be called a
+“scuttle”? If he has ever seen the word scuttle it has been in the
+Jingo Press, where the “policy of scuttle” is used whenever we give
+up something to a small Power like Liberals, instead of giving up
+everything to a great Power, like Imperialists. What Englishman in
+Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans call a glove a
+“hand-shoe.” Nations name their necessities by nicknames, so to
+speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish, and almost
+affectionate names, as if they were their own children! But any one can
+argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has ever got as
+far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can put a
+sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract or
+philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations. They are
+the same, for the simple reason that they all come from the things that
+were the roots of our common civilisation. From Christianity, from
+the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church, or the French Revolution.
+“Nation,” “citizen,” “religion,” “philosophy,” “authority,” “the
+Republic,” words like these are nearly the same in all the countries in
+which we travel. Restrain, therefore, your exuberant admiration for the
+young man who can argue with six French atheists when he first lands at
+Dieppe. Even I can do that. But very likely the same young man does not
+know the French for a shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there
+are three great exceptions. (1) In the case of countries that are not
+European at all, and have never had our civic conceptions, or the old
+Latin scholarship. I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for
+“citizenship” at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak’s word for “the
+Republic” has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of
+Germany, where, although the principle does apply to many words such
+as “nation” and “philosophy,” it does not apply so generally, because
+Germany has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the
+purely German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not
+know any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed my
+crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned were
+combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German. I
+knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which hold
+our European civilisation together--one of which is “cigar.” As it was a
+hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort of beer-garden, and
+ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the lager, and paid for
+it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it, and walked away, gazing
+rapturously at the royal outline of the Taunus mountains. After about
+ten minutes, I suddenly remembered that I had not paid for the cigar. I
+went back to the place of refreshment, and put down the money. But the
+proprietor also had forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural
+things in a tone of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said
+“cigar,” and he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the
+money to wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that
+my rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular
+cigar, and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture that my
+rejection was a rejection of cigars in general, not of that particular
+article. He mistook this for the ordinary impatience of common men, and
+rushed forward, his hands filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing
+them upon me. In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the
+more cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars were
+brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment. I tried in
+vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact that I had already
+had the cigar. I imitated the action of a citizen smoking, knocking off
+and throwing away a cigar. The watchful proprietor only thought I was
+rehearsing (as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar he
+was going to give me. At last I retired baffled: he would not take the
+money and leave the cigars alone. So that this restaurant-keeper (in
+whose face a love of money shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and
+firmly refused to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and
+I took that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months. I
+hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth very gently to
+that unhappy man.
+
+.....
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud, and the
+moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded upon abstractions. The
+idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed by physical motions at
+all, because it is an abstract idea. And civilisation obviously would be
+nothing without debt. So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific
+sociology (which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation is
+material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves how many of
+the things that make up our Society, the Law, or the Stocks and Shares,
+or the National Debt, you would be able to convey with your face and
+your ten fingers by grinning and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+
+
+XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there lies
+a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue, but of
+eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present writer
+to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws and
+customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day. It is not
+Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some sympathy with the
+Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath, and that for three reasons;
+first, that religion is an intrinsically sympathetic thing; second, that
+I cannot conceive any religion worth calling a religion without a fixed
+and material observance; and third, that the particular observance of
+sitting still and doing no work is one that suits my temperament down to
+the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it does not
+let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him up when it has forced
+him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism does not forbid us to ask a man
+in Battersea to come and talk in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his
+getting there. I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with
+joys, with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style. I can
+understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows. But I cannot
+imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences. Let the good
+Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent, according to his
+feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah cannot see anything
+particularly dignified in his servant being misled by the time-table,
+finding that the old Mecca express is not running, missing his
+connection at Bagdad, or having to wait three hours in a small side
+station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak thread
+of train-service. Now if this had been the authority of real English
+religion, I should have submitted to it at once. If I believed that
+the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram because he was at that
+moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer, I should think all telegrams
+unimportant in comparison. If I could believe that railway porters when
+relieved from their duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of
+worship, I should say that all lectures and everything else ought to
+give way to such a consideration. I should not complain if the national
+faith forbade me to make any appointments of labour or self-expression
+on the Sabbath. But, as it is, it only tells me that I may very probably
+keep the Sabbath by not keeping the appointment.
+
+.....
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there was
+only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could even get
+within several hours or several miles of the time or place. I therefore
+went to the telephone, which is one of my favourite toys, and down which
+I have shouted many valuable, but prematurely arrested, monologues upon
+art and morals. I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered
+that one could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days, to the
+advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument, in fewer
+words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram, I ordered a
+taxi-cab to take me to the railway station. I have not a word to say in
+general either against telephones or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two
+of the purest and most poetic of the creations of modern scientific
+civilisation. Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down. The result
+of this was that when I arrived at King’s Cross my only train was gone;
+there was a Sabbath calm in the station, a calm in the eyes of the
+porters, and in my breast, if calm at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my breast on first
+making the discovery; and it was turned to blinding horror when I learnt
+that I could not even send a telegram to the organisers of the meeting.
+To leave my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating; to
+leave them without any intimation was simply low. I reasoned with the
+official. I said: “Do you really mean to say that if my brother were
+dying and my mother in this place, I could not communicate with her?” He
+was a man of literal and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was
+dying. I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle. What would happen
+if England were invaded, or if I alone knew how to turn aside a comet or
+an earthquake. He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible
+spirit, but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element of the
+outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang up ungovernable,
+and I decided that I would not be a cad merely because some of my remote
+ancestors had been Calvinists. I would keep my appointment if I lost all
+my money and all my wits. I went out into the quiet London street, where
+my quiet London cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty
+morning. I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the
+London driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire. And he did.
+
+.....
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful whether, even in a
+motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started, but
+he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate sense of
+adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--if we ever did. I
+was by no means so delicate; I bought a varied selection of pork-pies
+at a little shop that was open (why was that shop open?--it is all a
+mystery), and ate them as we went along. The beginning was sombre and
+irritating. I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a
+baby; with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness in its
+squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable bustle of
+democracy; but the poor parts of North London... well, perhaps I saw
+them wrongly under that ashen morning and on that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke the
+retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring. We
+were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses, when
+the grey showed golden patches and a good light began to glitter on
+everything. The cab went quicker and quicker. The open land whirled
+wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of being battled with
+and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums. Rather the feeling
+increased, because of the great difficulty of space and time. The faster
+went the car, the fiercer and thicker I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me. The
+tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows; the very trees
+seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving it by a hair’s
+breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw a beech-tree by the
+white road stand up little and defiant. It grew bigger and bigger with
+blinding rapidity. It charged me like a tilting knight, seemed to hack
+at my head, and pass by. Sometimes when we went round a curve of road,
+the effect was yet more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill
+swung round to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a
+blazing fact; and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant. We
+do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek the nobler sort
+of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+.....
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided, with
+evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw a veil.
+When I came back home I was called to the telephone, and a meek voice
+expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab, and even said
+something about any reasonable payment. “Whom can I pay for my own
+superb experience? What is the usual charge for seeing the clouds
+shattered by the sun? What is the market price of a tree blue on the
+sky-line and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for that
+windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden. Let me pay you
+for...” Here it was, I think, that we were cut off.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI. The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England as Napoleon
+charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive, because away to
+the last grey line of the sea there was only the look of galloping
+squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose. The sea came on like
+cavalry, and when it touched the shore it opened the blazing eyes and
+deafening tongues of the artillery. I saw the worst assault at night on
+a seaside parade where the sea smote on the doors of England with the
+hammers of earthquake, and a white smoke went up into the black heavens.
+There one could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave. But the
+horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness. It lifts its load
+of water laboriously: in that style at once slow and slippery in which
+a Titan might lift a load of rock and then let it slip at last to be
+shattered into shock of dust. In front of me that night the waves were
+not like water: they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose
+first as if it did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to
+attack the stars. For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a
+tower; then it went a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that
+might some day fall. When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew
+up.
+
+.....
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across the land
+one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can lean up against
+like a wall. One expected anything to be blown out of shape at any
+instant; the lamp-post to be snapped like a green stalk, the tree to be
+whirled away like a straw. I myself should certainly have been blown out
+of shape if I had possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked
+along the edge of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea
+and could not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised to find that
+as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled with the ceaseless
+cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino or place of
+entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing against the cosmic
+uproar. I do not know what band it was. Judging from the boisterous
+British Imperialism of most of the airs it played, I should think it was
+a German band. But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came
+quite close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as “Tommy Atkins” and “You Can Depend on Young Australia,” and
+many others of which I do not know the words, but I should think they
+would be “John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,” or that fine though
+unwritten poem, “Wait till the Bull Dog gets a bite of you.” Now, I
+for one detest Imperialism, but I have a great deal of sympathy with
+Jingoism. And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken and
+innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature that it made, if I
+may so put it, two tunes in my mind. It is so obvious and so jolly to
+be optimistic about England, especially when you are an optimist--and
+an Englishman. But through all that glorious brass came the voice of the
+invasion, the undertone of that awful sea. I did a foolish thing. As I
+could not express my meaning in an article, I tried to express it in
+a poem--a bad one. You can call it what you like. It might be called
+“Doubt,” or “Brighton.” It might be called “The Patriot,” or yet again
+“The German Band.” I would call it “The Two Voices,” but that title has
+been taken for a grossly inferior poem. This is how it began--
+
+ “They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ “(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)”
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there is an English
+country that the Imperialists have never found. The British Empire
+may annex what it likes, it will never annex England. It has not even
+discovered the island, let alone conquered it. I took up the two tunes
+again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ “I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ “(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)”
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England. It
+is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely and at
+random--
+
+ “I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ “(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)”
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute; and as for
+the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the
+keeping off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at a tree,
+practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of knife-throwing
+by which men murder each other in Stevenson’s romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something about
+their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that reminded me,
+I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy. They asked what the
+knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it, what my address was, trade,
+religion, opinions on the Japanese war, name of favourite cat, and so
+on. They also said I was damaging the tree; which was, I am sorry to
+say, not true, because I could not hit it. The peculiar philosophical
+importance, however, of the incident was this. After some half-hour’s
+animated conversation, the exhibition of an envelope, an unfinished
+poem, which was read with great care, and, I trust, with some profit,
+and one or two other subtle detective strokes, the elder of the two
+knights became convinced that I really was what I professed to be, that
+I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS (this was the real
+stroke; they were shaken with a terror common to all tyrants), that
+I lived in a particular place as stated, and that I was stopping
+with particular people in Yorkshire, who happened to be wealthy and
+well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary at last
+that he ended up by representing himself as a reader of my work. And
+when that was said, everything was settled. They acquitted me and let me
+pass.
+
+“But,” I said, “what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue of that
+Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like knight-errants. You,
+the higher humanitarians, are not deceived by the seeming stillness
+of the green things, a stillness like the stillness of the cataract, a
+headlong and crashing silence. You know that a tree is but a creature
+tied to the ground by one leg. You will not let assassins with their
+Swedish daggers shed the green blood of such a being. But if so, why am
+I not in custody; where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your
+persons, my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have
+just convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank of
+Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether I have
+been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none the less damaged
+even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it was wounded by a
+gentleman connected with the Liberal press. Wounds in the bark do not
+more rapidly close up because they are inflicted by people who are
+stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley. That tree, the ruin of its former
+self, the wreck of what was once a giant of the forest, now splintered
+and laid low by the brute superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy,
+constable, cannot be wiped out even by stopping for several months more
+with some wealthy person. It is incredible that you have no legal claim
+to arrest even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?”
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood, for
+the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came. It is
+very possible, of course, that they were fairies. In that case the
+somewhat illogical character of their view of crime, law, and personal
+responsibility would find a bright and elfish explanation; perhaps if I
+had lingered in the glade till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny
+policemen dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass. But taking the
+bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen, I find myself in
+a certain difficulty. I was certainly accused of something which was
+either an offence or was not. I was let off because I proved I was a
+guest at a big house. The inference seems painfully clear; either it is
+not a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood, or else
+it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man. Suppose a very poor
+person, poorer even than a journalist, a navvy or unskilled labourer,
+tramping in search of work, often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps,
+failing in his rent. Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green
+gaiety of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees and
+could give no description of a dwelling-place except that he had been
+fired out of the last. As I walked home through a cloudy and purple
+twilight I wondered how he would have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical; there
+is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil in the fact
+that people always brag about their vices; it is when they begin to brag
+about their virtues that they become insufferable. But there is this to
+be said, that illogicality in your constitution or your legal methods
+may become very dangerous if there happens to be some great national
+vice or national temptation which many take advantage of the chaos.
+Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours; a temperate
+man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the Chiltern
+Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally to keep down
+some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is. Obviously this kind
+of illogicality does not matter very much, for the simple reason that
+there is no great temptation to take advantage of it. Men retiring from
+Parliament do not have any furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills.
+But if there were a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable
+politicians taking leave of public life would desire to do this (if,
+for instance, there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on
+saying that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day and
+taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality would
+matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence. It is only
+the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry. And
+snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil, that it is
+rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts and houses. But it is
+our great English vice; to be watched more fiercely than small-pox. If a
+man wished to hear the worst and wickedest thing in England summed up in
+casual English words, he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald
+quarrelling. He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working
+man, when he wishes to praise any one, calls him “a gentleman.” It never
+occurs to him that he might as well call him “a marquis,” or “a privy
+councillor”--that he is simply naming a rank or class, not a phrase
+for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a shameful admiration,
+must, and, I think, does, constantly come in and distort and poison our
+police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest, is
+increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people, without
+this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII. The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his first
+feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town or village;
+when he looks again he sees that this comparative absence of the
+picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain, precipitous frontage
+of the houses standing up hard and flat out of the street like the
+cardboard houses in a pantomime--a hard angularity allied perhaps to
+the harshness of French logic. When he looks a third time he sees quite
+simply that it is all because the houses have no front gardens. The
+vague English spirit loves to have the entrance to its house softened by
+bushes and broken by steps. It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges
+half in the house and half out of it; a green room in a double sense.
+The Frenchman desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting
+places, for the street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+.....
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man’s front
+garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains. The
+street is the Frenchman’s tavern, for he drinks in the street. It is his
+dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his British Museum, for
+the statues and monuments in French streets are not, as with us, of the
+worst, but of the best, art of the country, and they are often actually
+as historical as the Pyramids. The street again is the Frenchman’s
+Parliament, for France has never taken its Chamber of Deputies so
+seriously as we take our House of Commons, and the quibbles of mere
+elected nonentities in an official room seem feeble to a people whose
+fathers have heard the voice of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open
+heaven, or Victor Hugo shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the
+second Republic. And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in
+the street so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so
+that the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated gentleman
+embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship. But in Paris a lamp-post
+is a tragic thing. For we think of tyrants hanged on it, and of an
+end of the world. There is, or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris
+called LA LANTERNE. How funny it would be if there were a Progressive
+paper in England called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the
+Frenchman is the man in the street; that he can dine in the street, and
+die in the street. And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going
+to bed in the street, I shall say that he is still true to the genius
+of his civilisation. All that is good and all that is evil in France is
+alike connected with this open-air element. French democracy and French
+indecency are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a café, a public-house is a private house.
+
+.....
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through the
+mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort. First of all, it
+lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany, and boundaries are
+the most beautiful things in the world. To love anything is to love its
+boundaries; thus children will always play on the edge of anything.
+They build castles on the edge of the sea, and can only be restrained by
+public proclamation and private violence from walking on the edge of the
+grass. For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come to the
+beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very
+margin of Germany, and although there were many German touches in
+the place--German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical
+barmaids dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet
+the fixed French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks
+of something else. All day long and all night long troops of dusty,
+swarthy, scornful little soldiers went plodding through the streets with
+an air of stubborn disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised
+you, but French soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even
+more than you. It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation
+which has made it good at war and science and other things in which what
+is necessary is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the
+civilians alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of
+head which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call a
+bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call it
+a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen have
+been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+.....
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art of the
+French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of the most typical
+and powerful of the public monuments of France. From the café table at
+which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town on which hangs the high
+and flat-faced citadel, pierced with many windows, and warmed in the
+evening light. On the steep hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself
+as large as a hill. It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic
+impression. No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common
+statue; no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises, shaking the
+world. The face of the lion has something of the bold conventionality
+of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left like a shapeless cloud of
+tempest, as if it might literally be said of him that God had clothed
+his neck with thunder. Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and
+in some sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken by the Germans
+through all the terrible year, but only laid down its arms at last at
+the command of its own Government. But the spirit of it has been in
+this land from the beginning--the spirit of something defiant and almost
+defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern
+battle of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the
+last sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at
+bay, the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris and
+its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure; but
+it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of roses
+is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others, but
+quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion, they
+are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality. For
+the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort which
+charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts; they are
+torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life with the
+same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence. The enemies
+of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay which does
+not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which the
+Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself, it
+made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is the
+same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth. The new
+realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain. Its
+indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an everlasting revolution.
+It has none of the things which make good Frenchmen love Paris; it has
+only the things which make unspeakable Englishmen love it. It has
+the part which is cosmopolitan--and narrow; not the part which is
+Parisian--and universal. You can find there (as commonly happens in
+modern centres) the worst things of all nations--the _Daily Mail_ from
+England, the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of
+France, and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and, above all, no
+French tradition of fighting for an idea. Though all the boulevards look
+like Parisian boulevards, though all the shops look like Parisian shops,
+you cannot look at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the
+full distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters like
+Clemenceau and Deroulède.
+
+.....
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I
+began to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again;
+and I had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of
+the city. In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little
+man with a black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy
+whiskers, like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And
+about the time that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic
+grew thinner, and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were
+saying. Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy
+to follow, because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long
+words because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: “It must that we have the Progress.”
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying: “It must also
+that we have the Consolidation International.”
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened with
+some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it. One of the Belgians
+was a Little Belgian, as we speak of a Little Englander. The other was a
+Belgian Imperialist, for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be
+altogether a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire. Being
+a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being an empire only
+means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers was the Imperialist,
+and he was saying: “The science, behold there the new guide of
+humanity.”
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: “It does not suffice to have
+progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment of the
+human justice.”
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard
+in England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on the march.
+All the world goes to make itself instructed. It must that the more
+instructed enlighten the less instructed. Eh, well then, the European
+must impose upon the savage the science and the light. Also (apparently)
+he must impose himself on the savage while he is about it. To-day one
+travelled quickly. The science had changed all. For our fathers,
+they were religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing; all the
+lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves. Soon there would not
+be but the great Empires and confederations, guided by the science,
+always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with the
+sentiment for human justice had “la parole” off him in a flash. Without
+doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments, the
+ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself towards
+Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation, what were
+they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the barbarism?
+The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had passed all
+that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all human souls with
+the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was become a spirit; the
+wings pushed....
+
+.....
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it was
+almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent
+complete alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven
+knows where. I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on
+without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city. On one side
+of the road was one of those small, thin woods which are common in all
+countries, but of which, by a coincidence, the mystical painters of
+Flanders were very fond. The night was closing in with cloudy purple
+and grey; there was one ribbon of silver, the last rag of the sunset.
+Through the wood went one little path, and somehow it suggested that it
+might lead to some sign of life--there was no other sign of life on the
+horizon. I went along it, and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight
+of all those tiny trees. There is something subtle and bewildering about
+that sort of frail and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems
+like a bodily barrier; but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a
+spiritual barrier. It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could
+not pass a phantom. When I had well lost the last gleam of the high
+road a curious and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly
+felt something much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of
+humanity: inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--any men;
+and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe. And at last, when I
+had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw a light too near the earth
+to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door of which
+was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse, who seemed to prefer to
+eat with his head inside the sitting-room. I got past him, and found
+he was being fed by a young man who was sitting down and drinking beer
+inside, and who saluted me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange
+tongue. The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I traced
+at length as belonging to about six small children. Their father was
+still working in the fields, but their mother rose when I entered. She
+smiled, but she and all the rest spoke some rude language, Flamand, I
+suppose; so that we had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched
+me beer, and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men hitting each
+other with swords, it pleased them very much. Then I gave a Belgian
+penny to each child, for as I said on chance in French, “It must be that
+we have the economic equality.” But they had never heard of economic
+equality, while all Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality,
+though it is true that they haven’t got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying, one that
+Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that Humanity was now
+pushing the wings of the purely intellectual. But for me Humanity was
+hooked on to an accidental picture. I thought of a low and lonely house
+in the flats, behind a veil or film of slight trees, a man breaking the
+ground as men have broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse
+champing his food within a foot of a child’s head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+
+
+XXX. The Little Birds Who Won’t Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that in a few hours
+I should be in England, my eye fell upon one of the details of Gothic
+carving of which Flanders is full. I do not know whether the thing is
+old, though it was certainly knocked about and indecipherable, but at
+least it was certainly in the style and tradition of the early Middle
+Ages. It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say twisting
+themselves) to certain primary employments. Some seemed to be
+sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think, were reaping; others were
+energetically pouring something into something else. This is entirely
+characteristic of the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth
+century, perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history. The great
+Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes doing nothing. Splendid
+and philosophic as their composure is there is always about it something
+that marks the master of many slaves. But if there was one thing
+the early mediaevals liked it was representing people doing
+something--hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes, or
+making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. “Quicquid agunt homines,
+votum, timor, ira voluptas.” (I quote from memory.) The Middle Ages
+is full of that spirit in all its monuments and manuscripts. Chaucer
+retains it in his jolly insistence on everybody’s type of trade and
+toil. It was the earliest and youngest resurrection of Europe, the time
+when social order was strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive;
+the time when religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been
+exasperated. For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic
+carving is different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often
+reining their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever at
+that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving seems actually
+a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone. Sometimes one cannot help feeling
+that the groups actually move and mix, and the whole front of a great
+cathedral has the hum of a huge hive.
+
+.....
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity of which I
+could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads had very curious
+heads, and it seemed to me that they had their mouths open. Whether or
+no this really meant anything or was an accident of nascent art I do not
+know; but in the course of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that
+singing was connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes. I was
+still thinking about this small problem when I walked along the pier
+at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering a measured shout as they
+laboured, and I remembered that sailors still sing in chorus while they
+work, and even sing different songs according to what part of their work
+they are doing. And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was
+over, the sight of men working in the English fields reminded me
+again that there are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural
+routines. And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be quite
+unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry. How did people
+come to chant rude poems while pulling certain ropes or gathering
+certain fruit, and why did nobody do anything of the kind while
+producing any of the modern things? Why is a modern newspaper never
+printed by people singing in chorus? Why do shopmen seldom, if ever,
+sing?
+
+.....
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all the
+separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there not songs
+for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank? As the train
+from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens, I tried to write a few
+songs suitable for commercial gentlemen. Thus, the work of bank clerks
+when casting up columns might begin with a thundering chorus in praise
+of Simple Addition.
+
+“Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o’er. Hear the
+Stars of Morning shouting: ‘Two and Two are four.’ Though the creeds and
+realms are reeling, though the sophists roar, Though we weep and pawn
+our watches, Two and Two are Four.”
+
+“There’s a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager’s a crank and
+the Secretary drank, and the
+
+ Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+ Stand close: there is a run
+ On the Bank.
+ Of our ship, our royal one, let the ringing legend run,
+ That she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank.”
+
+.....
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine who
+actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions in rhyme to him
+for use among his colleagues. But he was not very hopeful about the
+matter. It was not (he assured me) that he underrated the verses, or in
+any sense lamented their lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an
+indefinable something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks. And I think
+he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious. I may observe
+here that I think there must be some mistake in the calculations of the
+Socialists. They put down all our distress, not to a moral tone, but
+to the chaos of private enterprise. Now, banks are private; but
+post-offices are Socialistic: therefore I naturally expected that the
+post-office would fall into the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of
+my surprise when the lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing)
+dismissed the idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done.
+She seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the verses
+themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse of the
+Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+ “O’er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o’er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.”
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+ “Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.”
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully certain it
+seemed that the most important and typical modern things could not be
+done with a chorus. One could not, for instance, be a great financier
+and sing; because the essence of being a great financier is that you
+keep quiet. You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being a public man is
+that you do nearly everything in private. Nobody would imagine a chorus
+of money-lenders. Every one knows the story of the solicitors’ corps of
+volunteers who, when the Colonel on the battlefield cried “Charge!” all
+said simultaneously, “Six-and-eightpence.” Men can sing while charging
+in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at the end of my
+reflections I had really got no further than the sub-conscious feeling
+of my friend the bank-clerk--that there is something spiritually
+suffocating about our life; not about our laws merely, but about our
+life. Bank-clerks are without songs, not because they are poor, but
+because they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards I
+passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which was shaken
+with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own tongue. THEY were
+singing anyhow; and I had for an instant a fancy I had often had before:
+that with us the super-human is the only place where you can find the
+human. Human nature is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday, a
+friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded with
+half-packed luggage.
+
+“You seem to be off on your travels,” he said. “Where are you going?”
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, “To Battersea.”
+
+“The wit of your remark,” he said, “wholly escapes me.”
+
+“I am going to Battersea,” I repeated, “to Battersea viâ Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea.”
+
+“I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you,” said my friend, with an air
+of intellectual comparison, “that this is Battersea?”
+
+“It is quite unnecessary,” I said, “and it is spiritually untrue. I
+cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or any England. I
+cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair: because a cloud of sleep
+and custom has come across my eyes. The only way to get back to them is
+to go somewhere else; and that is the real object of travel and the real
+pleasure of holidays. Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see
+France? Do you suppose that I go to Germany in order to see Germany?
+I shall enjoy them both; but it is not them that I am seeking. I am
+seeking Battersea. The whole object of travel is not to set foot on
+foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a
+foreign land. Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and
+heavy, and that if you utter that word ‘paradox’ I shall hurl it at your
+head. I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical. It is
+not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go to England is to
+go away from it.”
+
+But when, after only a month’s travelling, I did come back to England, I
+was startled to find that I had told the exact truth. England did break
+on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old. To land at Dover is
+the right way to approach England (most things that are hackneyed are
+right), for then you see first the full, soft gardens of Kent, which
+are, perhaps, an exaggeration, but still a typical exaggeration, of the
+rich rusticity of England. As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with
+whom I had fallen into conversation felt the same freshness, though for
+another cause. She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm in that
+simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans, who are the most
+idealistic people in the whole world. Their only danger is that the
+idealist can easily become the idolator. And the American has become
+so idealistic that he even idealises money. But (to quote a very able
+writer of American short stories) that is another story.
+
+“I have never been in England before,” said the American lady, “yet
+it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it for a long
+time.”
+
+“So you have,” I said; “you have been away for three hundred years.”
+
+“What a lot of ivy you have,” she said. “It covers the churches and
+it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it grow like
+that.”
+
+“I am interested to hear it,” I replied, “for I am making a little list
+of all the things that are really better in England. Even a month on
+the Continent, combined with intelligence, will teach you that there are
+many things that are better abroad. All the things that the DAILY MAIL
+calls English are better abroad. But there are things entirely English
+and entirely good. Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front
+gardens, and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom
+cabs, and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman or a
+German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a light bursts
+upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of Mrs. Gallup and
+the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the matter of a capital
+letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept everything; bacon did write
+Shakespeare.”
+
+“I cannot look at anything but the ivy,” she said, “it looks so
+comfortable.”
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many weeks
+an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour in which
+he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved because it
+represented something in the nature of permanent public opinion of
+England, above the ebb and flow of the parties. Now Mr. Balfour is a
+perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his own point of view, thinks
+long and seriously about the public needs, and he is, moreover, a man
+of entirely exceptionable intellectual power. But alas, in spite of
+all this, when I had read that speech I thought with a heavy heart that
+there was one more thing that I had to add to the list of the specially
+English things, such as kippers and cricket; I had to add the specially
+English kind of humbug. In France things are attacked and defended for
+what they are. The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended because
+it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican. But here is the
+ablest of English politicians consoling everybody by telling them that
+the House of Lords is not really the House of Lords, but something quite
+different, that the foolish accidental peers whom he meets every night
+are in some mysterious way experts upon the psychology of the democracy;
+that if you want to know what the very poor want you must ask the very
+rich, and that if you want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it
+at Hatfield. If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were
+a logical French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an
+English politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing
+that all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the
+strong English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts. In a
+cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly all the
+Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery. He knows, and
+(as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament knows the very
+names of the peers who have purchased their peerages. But the glamour
+of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself and reassuring others, is
+too strong for this original knowledge; at last it fades from him,
+and he sincerely and earnestly calls on Englishmen to join with him in
+admiring an august and public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten
+that the Senate really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+“Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick,” said the American lady, “it
+seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical thing in
+England.”
+
+“It is very beautiful,” I said, “and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England, wrote one of
+his rare poems about the beauty of ivy. Yes, by all means let us admire
+the ivy, so deep, so warm, so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque
+tenderness. Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree.”
+
+
+
+
+XXXII. The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was a
+train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it. And
+while I was running along the train (amid general admiration) I noticed
+that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of carriages marked
+“Engaged.” On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages was pasted the
+little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows were big bland
+men staring out in the conscious pride of possession. Their bodies
+seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more than usual
+placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor reasons that
+it was the opposite direction and the wrong day. It could hardly be
+the King. It could hardly be the French President. For, though these
+distinguished persons naturally like to be private for three hours, they
+are at least public for three minutes. A crowd can gather to see
+them step into the train; and there was no crowd here, or any police
+ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train than a
+bricklayer’s beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious and delicate than
+the King’s own suite? Who were these that were larger than a mob, yet
+more mysterious than a monarch? Was it possible that instead of our
+Royal House visiting the Tsar, he was really visiting us? Or does the
+House of Lords have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge. Then
+the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them got out the
+distinguished holders of the engaged seats. They were all dressed
+decorously in one colour; they had neatly cropped hair; and they were
+chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our eyes
+met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt, a
+native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going. His mouth
+twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said: “I don’t
+s’pose they’re goin’ on an ’oliday at the seaside with little spades
+and pails.” I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein of
+literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down to
+Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge, and
+had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when we
+had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea. I
+knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: “Well, I s’pose we ’ave to do it.”
+ And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of the
+English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense of
+pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+.....
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out. For every
+practical purpose of a political state, for every practical purpose of a
+tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted. At a tea-party it
+is equally obvious that he that exalteth himself must be abased, if
+possible without bodily violence. Now people talk of democracy as
+being coarse and turbulent: it is a self-evident error in mere history.
+Aristocracy is the thing that is always coarse and turbulent: for it
+means appealing to the self-confident people. Democracy means appealing
+to the different people. Democracy means getting those people to vote
+who would never have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian
+ethics) the precise people who ought to govern are the people who have
+not the cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my
+friend in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument
+about crime and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything: as if
+one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible. This mere belief in
+bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental; it is simply snobbish. For
+if comfort gives men virtue, the comfortable classes ought to be
+virtuous--which is absurd. Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and
+more watery type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who
+says, with a sort of splutter, “Flog the brutes!” or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity “what he would do” with a certain man--always
+supposing the man’s hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak and
+unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental humanitarian
+and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears in the modern babel.
+Yet you very rarely meet either of them in a train. You never meet
+anyone else in a controversy. The man you meet in a train is like this
+man that I met: he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually
+doubtful. So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could be
+“done” to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it would be if
+nothing need be done. But something must be done. “I s’pose we ’ave to
+do it.” In short, he is simply a sane man, and of a sane man there is
+only one safe definition. He is a man who can have tragedy in his heart
+and comedy in his head.
+
+.....
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem of the
+proper treatment of criminals is that both parties discuss the matter
+without any direct human feeling. The denouncers of wrong are as cold as
+the organisers of wrong. Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging arranged in our
+modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its scientific paraphernalia,
+the photographing, the medical attendance, prove that it goes to the
+last foul limit of the boot and rack. The cat is simply the rack without
+any of its intellectual reasons. Holding this view strongly, I open the
+ordinary humanitarian books or papers and I find a phrase like this,
+“The lash is a relic of barbarism.” So is the plough. So is the fishing
+net. So is the horn or the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an
+inexpressibly feeble phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of
+barbarism! It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow, and
+we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion. There is
+nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism. Man is a
+relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is
+simply a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called
+a relic of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate
+when everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was
+detailed exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous
+sixteenth century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years
+before the Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this
+day. This is, first and last, the frightful thing we must remember.
+In so far as we grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense
+whatever) naturally moving away from torture. We may be moving towards
+torture. We must know what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous
+secret cruelty which has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields. They have
+taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they have done with
+them.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not think
+so; he did not think so because he himself was even more modern than the
+railway station. He did not think so because he was himself feverish,
+irritable, and snorting like an engine. He could not value the ancient
+silence of the railway station.
+
+“In a railway station,” he said, “you are in a hurry, and therefore,
+miserable”; but you need not be either unless you are as modern as
+Ruskin. The true philosopher does not think of coming just in time for
+his train except as a bet or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be late
+for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway station
+much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral. It has many of the
+characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building; it has vast arches,
+void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all, it has recurrence or
+ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration of water and fire the two
+prime elements of all human ceremonial. Lastly, a station resembles the
+old religions rather than the new religions in this point, that people
+go there. In connection with this it should also be remembered that all
+popular places, all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain
+the best routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or
+machines used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people. Ruskin
+could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the Underground
+Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations. The great palaces
+of pleasure which the rich build in London all have brazen and vulgar
+names. Their names are either snobbish, like the Hotel Cecil, or
+(worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole. But when I go in a
+third-class carriage from the nearest circle station to Battersea to the
+nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names of the stations are
+one long litany of solemn and saintly memories. Leaving Victoria I come
+to a park belonging especially to St. James the Apostle; thence I go to
+Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes to the awful Abbey; Charing
+Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom; the next station is called a
+Temple; and Blackfriars remembers the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million feet of the
+crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear down old things by sheer
+walking. But the educated kick them down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty railway station,
+where I have no business of any kind. I have extracted a vast number of
+chocolates from automatic machines; I have obtained cigarettes, toffee,
+scent, and other things that I dislike by the same machinery; I have
+weighed myself, with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential antiquity and
+permanence, is still in possession of my mind. I wander up to the
+bookstall, and my faith survives even the wild spectacle of modern
+literature and journalism. Even in the crudest and most clamorous
+aspects of the newspaper world I still prefer the popular to the proud
+and fastidious. If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and
+taking in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL. Even
+mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so irritating as mere
+meanness preached in a big and solemn way. People buy the DAILY MAIL,
+but they do not believe in it. They do believe in the TIMES, and
+(apparently) they do not buy it. But the more the output of paper upon
+the modern world is actually studied, the more it will be found to be
+in all its essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur and historic
+allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library. The novelty is all
+superficial; the tradition is all interior and profound. The DAILY MAIL
+has new editions, but never a new idea. Everything in a newspaper that
+is not the old human love of altar or fatherland is the old human love
+of gossip. Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church struck
+by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem to realise that
+this old barbaric history is the same as new democratic journalism. It
+is not that the savage chronicle has disappeared. It is merely that the
+savage chronicle now appears every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me. On
+the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, “Get On or Get
+Out.” The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden revolt and
+reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty; it reminded
+me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly idiotic thing,
+a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing anybody in
+anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful person
+in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being the most
+successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men. When I saw those
+words the silence and sanctity of the railway station were for the
+moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate something
+anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate, means the most
+disgusting individualism of this individualistic world. In the fury of
+my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book, thereby ensuring
+that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it prepared to find
+some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be an exception to
+the general silence and sanctity of the railway station. I was prepared
+to find something in the book that was as infamous as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding to the
+furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover. After reading it
+carefully I could not discover whether I was really to get on or to
+get out; but I had a vague feeling that I should prefer to get out.
+A considerable part of the book, particularly towards the end, was
+concerned with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not discover
+in any way how the details of his life given here were supposed to help
+a person aiming at success. One anecdote described how Napoleon always
+wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose the moral is: always wipe
+your pen on your knee-breeches, and you will win the battle of Wagram.
+Another story told that he let loose a gazelle among the ladies of his
+Court. Clearly the brutal practical inference is--loose a gazelle among
+the ladies of your acquaintance, and you will be Emperor of the French.
+Get on with a gazelle or get out. The book entirely reconciled me to
+the soft twilight of the station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a
+symbolic division which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are
+vertebrates; they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans; their
+hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside. But the
+softness is there; everything in this twilight temple is soft.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIV. The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element of
+truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned, such as meeting
+President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab. What I have now to relate
+really happened; yet there was no element in it of practical politics or
+of personal danger. It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with
+another man. But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible
+thing that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long ago
+that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue, only of its
+main questions and answers; but there is one sentence in it for which I
+can answer absolutely and word for word. It was a sentence so awful that
+I could not forget it if I would. It was the last sentence spoken; and
+it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school. An art
+school is different from almost all other schools or colleges in this
+respect: that, being of new and crude creation and of lax discipline,
+it presents a specially strong contrast between the industrious and the
+idle. People at an art school either do an atrocious amount of work or
+do no work at all. I belonged, along with other charming people, to the
+latter class; and this threw me often into the society of men who were
+very different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied; I was
+engaged about that time in discovering, to my own extreme and lasting
+astonishment, that I was not an atheist. But there were others also at
+loose ends who were engaged in discovering what Carlyle called (I think
+with needless delicacy) the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are two
+very curious things which the critic of human life may observe. The
+first is the fact that there is one real difference between men and
+women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk in
+threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do) three young
+cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk together every
+day you generally find that one of the three cads and idiots is (for
+some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot. In these small
+groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is almost always one
+man who seems to have condescended to his company; one man who, while he
+can talk a foul triviality with his fellows, can also talk politics with
+a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he would
+talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours of the night
+he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even in speculation. He
+was a man with a long, ironical face, and close and red hair; he was
+by class a gentleman, and could walk like one, but preferred, for some
+reason, to walk like a groom carrying two pails. He looked like a sort
+of Super-jockey; as if some archangel had gone on the Turf. And I shall
+never forget the half-hour in which he and I argued about real things
+for the first and the last time.
+
+.....
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school was a part ran
+a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think, than those that lead up to
+St. Paul’s Cathedral. On a black wintry evening he and I were wandering
+on these cold heights, which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the
+stars. The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning and
+blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning something in the
+grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went whirling past us like
+a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark. Above us also it was gloom;
+but if one stared long enough at that upper darkness, one saw vertical
+stripes of grey in the black and then became conscious of the colossal
+façade of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+.....
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said it,
+I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it I knew
+it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and full that
+I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+“I am becoming orthodox,” I said, “because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than
+a crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches piracy
+disinterestedly and without an adequate salary. A Free Lover is worse
+than a profligate. For a profligate is serious and reckless even in his
+shortest love; while a Free Lover is cautious and irresponsible even in
+his longest devotion. I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous.”
+
+“You mean dangerous to morality,” he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. “I expect you are right. But why do you care about
+morality?”
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had a
+trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light of the
+bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights. His long chin and
+high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath; so that
+he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit. I had an
+unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness; and even as I paused a
+burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+“Aren’t those sparks splendid?” I said.
+
+“Yes,” he replied.
+
+“That is all that I ask you to admit,” said I. “Give me those few red
+specks and I will deduce Christian morality. Once I thought like you,
+that one’s pleasure in a flying spark was a thing that could come and
+go with that spark. Once I thought that the delight was as free as the
+fire. Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space. But now
+I know that the red star is only on the apex of an invisible pyramid of
+virtues. That red fire is only the flower on a stalk of living habits,
+which you cannot see. Only because your mother made you say ‘Thank you’
+for a bun are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you were
+humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now enjoy any
+fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them being red because
+you were told about the blood of the martyrs; you only like them
+being bright because brightness is a glory. That flame flowered out of
+virtues, and it will fade with virtues. Seduce a woman, and that spark
+will be less bright. Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be
+really bad, and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper.”
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both. He
+only said, “But shall I not find in evil a life of its own? Granted that
+for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out: will not the
+expanding pleasure of ruin...”
+
+“Do you see that fire?” I asked. “If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are.”
+
+“Perhaps,” he said, in his tired, fair way. “Only what you call evil I
+call good.”
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted the steps
+swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find my hat in the
+low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his voice again, but
+the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled: then I heard the voice of
+one of the vilest of his associates saying, “Nobody can possibly know.”
+ And then I heard those two or three words which I remember in every
+syllable and cannot forget. I heard the Diabolist say, “I tell you I
+have done everything else. If I do that I shan’t know the difference
+between right and wrong.” I rushed out without daring to pause; and as
+I passed the fire I did not know whether it was hell or the furious love
+of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think, that he
+committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure, not with
+tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went; but I have never
+known, or even dared to think, what was that place at which he stopped
+and refrained.
+
+
+
+
+XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is really
+quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven or Fairyland or
+whatever I called it, was immediately behind my own back, and that this
+was why I could never manage to see it, however often I twisted and
+turned to take it by surprise. I had a notion of a man perpetually
+spinning round on one foot like a teetotum in the effort to find that
+world behind his back which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is
+why the world goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look
+over its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it, yet
+without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive of
+that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is in
+some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned. Always
+the Kingdom of Heaven is “At Hand”; and Looking-glass Land is only
+through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished if
+the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in which all
+the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I turned one
+corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp; I should not
+be surprised if I turned a third corner and found myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day at
+something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street and found
+myself in England.
+
+.....
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation. In the
+darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there is one thing
+that should always be remembered about the very nature of our country.
+It may be shortly stated by saying that England is not such a fool as
+it looks. The types of England, the externals of England, always
+misrepresent the country. England is an oligarchical country, and it
+prefers that its oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners. Our
+countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher places of
+the national life. It may be a strange sight to see the blind leading
+the blind; but England provides a stranger. England shows us the blind
+leading the people who can see. And this again is an under-statement
+of the case. For the English political aristocrats not only speak worse
+than many other people; they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance
+of statesmen is like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected
+thing. If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you
+will be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things. It
+makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently intimate
+with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life in Parliament
+to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself; he
+votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one. A man ought to
+vote with the whole of himself as he worships or gets married. A man
+ought to vote with his head and heart, his soul and stomach, his eye for
+faces and his ear for music; also (when sufficiently provoked) with his
+hands and feet. If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of
+it should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs, they
+should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross. But as it is,
+the difficulty with English democracy at all elections is that it is
+something less than itself. The question is not so much whether only a
+minority of the electorate votes. The point is that only a minority of
+the voter votes.
+
+.....
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak I found
+this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle class which I
+had imagined had almost vanished from the world. It seemed to me that
+all the main representatives of the middle class had gone off in one
+direction or in the other; they had either set out in pursuit of the
+Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit of the Simple Life. I cannot
+say which I dislike more myself; the people in question are welcome to
+have either of them, or, as is more likely, to have both, in hideous
+alternations of disease and cure. But all the prominent men who plainly
+represent the middle class have adopted either the single eye-glass of
+Mr. Chamberlain or the single eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads. It was
+serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it committed the
+solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that this old earnest
+political England had practically disappeared. And as I say, I took one
+turn out of Fleet Street and I found a room full of it.
+
+.....
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The
+club was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne’er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all the
+hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth century.
+The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet there was
+not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I often have in
+listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion. The Toryism of this
+club was like the Toryism of Johnson, a Toryism that could use humour
+and appealed to humanity. The democracy of this club was like the
+democracy of Wilkes, a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight
+duels; a democracy that can face things out and endure slander; the
+democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers. Each
+man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as well as he could
+from sheer fury against the other man. This is the greatest of our
+modern descents, that nowadays a man does not become more rhetorical
+as he becomes more sincere. An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got
+really and honestly furious, looked for big words with which to crush
+his adversary. The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech the
+rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening to which nobody
+listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate, or one of the harder
+kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere, he becomes Cockney. “The
+destiny of the Empire,” or “The destiny of humanity,” do well enough
+for mere ornamental preliminaries, but when the man becomes angry and
+honest, then it is a snarl, “Where do we come in?” or “It’s your money
+they want.”
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different; they
+were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet quivering with
+passion, and tried to destroy his opponent, not with sniggering, but
+actually with eloquence. I was arguing with them about Home Rule; at
+the end I told them why the English aristocracy really disliked an Irish
+Parliament; because it would be like their club.
+
+.....
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I saw
+pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London was rising
+against something that London had hardly heard of. Then I suddenly
+saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world is an immense and
+tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things. And I saw that
+across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin, sheet of ice, of
+wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I heard
+it crack.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read it through
+very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come to the conclusion
+that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read it through very
+carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet. The image and the
+idea of it clung to me through a great part of my boyhood; I may have
+dreamt it before I could talk; or told it to myself before I could read;
+or read it before I could remember. On the whole, however, I am certain
+that I did not read it, for children have very clear memories about
+things like that; and of the books which I was really fond I can still
+remember, not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline to
+the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+.....
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages of the
+atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me, for the sake of
+argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch restaurants
+in the City where men take their food so fast that it has none of the
+quality of food, and take their half-hour’s vacation so fast that it has
+none of the qualities of leisure; to hurry through one’s leisure is the
+most unbusiness-like of actions. They all wore tall shiny hats as if
+they could not lose an instant even to hang them on a peg, and they all
+had one eye a little off, hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In
+short, they were the slaves of the modern bondage, you could hear their
+fetters clanking. Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest
+chain ever tied to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man who
+almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue. He was like all
+the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly opposite to them in all
+manner. He wore a high shiny hat and a long frock coat, but he wore them
+as such solemn things were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if
+it were a mitre, and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high
+priest. He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed (such was
+his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat for doing so, and
+to apologise to the peg for making use of it. When he had sat down on
+a wooden chair with the air of one considering its feelings and given a
+sort of slight stoop or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an
+altar, I could not help some comment springing to my lips. For the man
+was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man, and yet he treated
+everything with a care that almost amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said, “This
+furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat it much too
+carelessly.”
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed as his was
+fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him ordinary as he entered,
+save for his strange, cautious manner; but if the other people had seen
+him then they would have screamed and emptied the room. They did not see
+him, and they went on making a clatter with their forks, and a murmur
+with their conversation. But the man’s face was the face of a maniac.
+
+“Did you mean anything particular by that remark?” he asked at last, and
+the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+“Nothing whatever,” I answered. “One does not mean anything here; it
+spoils people’s digestions.”
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief; and
+yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+“I thought perhaps,” he said in a low voice, “that another of them had
+gone wrong.”
+
+“If you mean another digestion gone wrong,” I said, “I never heard of
+one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire, and the other
+organs are in an equally bad way.”
+
+“No, I mean another street gone wrong,” and he said heavily and quietly,
+“but as I suppose that doesn’t explain much to you, I think I shall have
+to tell you the story. I do so with all the less responsibility, because
+I know you won’t believe it. For forty years of my life I invariably
+left my office, which is in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the
+afternoon, taking with me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the
+left hand. For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the
+side office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side, took
+the first turning to the left and the third to the right, from where I
+bought an evening paper, followed the road on the right-hand side round
+two obtuse angles, and came out just outside a Metropolitan station,
+where I took a train home. For forty years two months and four days I
+fulfilled this course by accumulated habit: it was not a long street
+that I traversed, and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I went out
+in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand and my bag in the
+left, and I began to notice that walking along the familiar street tired
+me somewhat more than usual; and when I turned it I was convinced that I
+had turned down the wrong one. For now the street shot up quite a steep
+slant, such as one only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this
+part there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street; the
+name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were the same; the
+lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective was the same; only
+it was tilted upwards like a lid. Forgetting any trouble about
+breathlessness or fatigue I ran furiously forward, and reached the
+second of my accustomed turnings, which ought to bring me almost within
+sight of the station. And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the
+pavement. For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a
+steep staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles round
+that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill. And this was
+a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole street had lifted itself
+like a single wave, and yet every speck and detail of it was the same,
+and I saw in the high distance, as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked
+out in pink letters the name over my paper shop.
+
+“I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a part
+of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses. I had,
+I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long iron bridge in
+empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up the iron trap of a
+coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty space and the stairs.
+
+“When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was in
+shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing so
+perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world. And the
+stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought to be endured
+by the eyes of men.
+
+“‘If you are a kind angel,’ I said, ‘or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of
+devils.’
+
+“After a long silence he said, ‘What do you say that it is?’
+
+“‘It is Bumpton Street, of course,’ I snapped. ‘It goes to Oldgate
+Station.’
+
+“‘Yes,’ he admitted gravely; ‘it goes there sometimes. Just now,
+however, it is going to heaven.’
+
+“‘To heaven?’ I said. ‘Why?’
+
+“‘It is going to heaven for justice,’ he replied. ‘You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody
+does. But you can’t neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time, you
+can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the State
+so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no horse,
+no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and yet have
+less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have worked this
+street to death, and yet you have never remembered its existence. If
+you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would have hung this
+street with garlands and given it the name of a god. Then it would have
+gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired of your tireless
+insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to heaven. Have you
+never sat on a bucking horse?’
+
+“I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me to
+be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven. But
+in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, ‘But this is all nonsense.
+Streets go to the place they have to go. A street must always go to its
+end.’
+
+“‘Why do you think so of a street?’ he asked, standing very still.
+
+“‘Because I have always seen it do the same thing,’ I replied, in
+reasonable anger. ‘Day after day, year after year, it has always gone to
+Oldgate Station; day after...’
+
+“I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury of the road in
+revolt.
+
+“‘And you?’ he cried terribly. ‘What do you think the road thinks of
+you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive? Day after day,
+year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station....’ Since then I have
+respected the things called inanimate.”
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in the restaurant
+withdrew.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can get
+for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun, the moon,
+the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles. You can get
+them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing, which I am
+not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which the lowest price is a
+penny halfpenny. But the general principle will be at once apparent.
+In the street behind me, for instance, you can now get a ride on an
+electric tram for a halfpenny. To be on an electric tram is to be on
+a flying castle in a fairy tale. You can get quite a large number of
+brightly coloured sweets for a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of
+reading this article for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and
+irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array of valuable
+things you can get at a halfpenny each you should do as I was doing last
+night. I was gluing my nose against the glass of a very small and
+dimly lit toy shop in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets
+of Battersea. But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made. Those toys of
+the poor were like the children who buy them; they were all dirty; but
+they were all bright. For my part, I think brightness more important
+than cleanliness; since the first is of the soul, and the second of the
+body. You must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion in
+the modern world.
+
+.....
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red Noah’s
+arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance. That lit
+shop-window became like the brilliantly lit stage when one is watching
+some highly coloured comedy. I forgot the grey houses and the grimy
+people behind me as one forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds
+at a theatre. It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were
+small, not because they were toys, but because they were objects far
+away. The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater
+omnibus, passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to
+Bayswater. The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was
+blue with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming and
+only man is black. The red Noah’s ark was really the enormous ship
+of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea, red in the first
+morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction, such
+brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the face
+of one’s own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles or
+moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the slowness of
+their growth and the suddenness of their termination. The return to real
+thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man. Very often indeed
+(in my case) it is bumping into a man. But in any case the awakening is
+always emphatic and, generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in
+this case, I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop; but
+in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final. There
+was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told me that I had
+strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I had already done some odd
+thing. I felt as if I had worked a miracle or committed a sin. It was as
+if I had at any rate, stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop and
+tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old and
+broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half his face,
+hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial. Yet though
+he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering in his
+eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling asleep in a not
+unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers, but when I put down the
+money he did not at first seem to see it; then he blinked at it feebly,
+and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+“No, no,” he said vaguely. “I never have. I never have. We are rather
+old-fashioned here.”
+
+“Not taking money,” I replied, “seems to me more like an uncommonly new
+fashion than an old one.”
+
+“I never have,” said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose; “I’ve
+always given presents. I’m too old to stop.”
+
+“Good heavens!” I said. “What can you mean? Why, you might be Father
+Christmas.”
+
+“I am Father Christmas,” he said apologetically, and blew his nose
+again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside. At
+any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street; I
+might have strayed into some new and sunless world. But something had
+cut the chords of common sense, and I could not feel even surprise
+except sleepily. Something made me say, “You look ill, Father
+Christmas.”
+
+“I am dying,” he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+“All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it. They seem
+to object to me on such curious and inconsistent sort of grounds,
+these scientific men, and these innovators. They say that I give people
+superstitions and make them too visionary; they say I give people
+sausages and make them too coarse. They say my heavenly parts are too
+heavenly; they say my earthly parts are too earthly; I don’t know what
+they want, I’m sure. How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly
+things too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly? I don’t
+understand. But I understand one thing well enough. These modern people
+are living and I am dead.”
+
+“You may be dead,” I replied. “You ought to know. But as for what they
+are doing, do not call it living.”
+
+.....
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected to be
+unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few seconds when, in the
+utter stillness, I distinctly heard a very rapid step coming nearer and
+nearer along the street. The next moment a figure flung itself into the
+shop and stood framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted
+back as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat. He
+had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor; he
+had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the shop
+and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and uttered the
+exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+“Good lord!” he cried out; “it can’t be you! It isn’t you! I came to ask
+where your grave was.”
+
+“I’m not dead yet, Mr. Dickens,” said the old gentleman, with a feeble
+smile; “but I’m dying,” he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+“But, dash it all, you were dying in my time,” said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; “and you don’t look a day older.”
+
+“I’ve felt like this for a long time,” said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door into the
+darkness.
+
+“Dick,” he roared at the top of his voice; “he’s still alive.”
+
+.....
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne. He carried
+his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face had even a look
+of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted by his eyes, which were
+literally as humble as a dog’s. His sword made a great clatter, as if
+the shop were too small for it.
+
+“Indeed,” said Sir Richard Steele, “?’tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley and his
+Christmas Day.”
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker. It seemed to be
+filled with newcomers.
+
+“It hath ever been understood,” said a burly man, who carried his head
+humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think he was Ben
+Jonson--“It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King
+James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were
+fallen sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most
+surely was no lustier when I knew him than now.”
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in
+some mixed Norman French, “But I saw the man dying.”
+
+“I have felt like this a long time,” said Father Christmas, in his
+feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+“Since when?” he asked. “Since you were born?”
+
+“Yes,” said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. “I have been
+always dying.”
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to
+rise.
+
+“I understand it now,” he cried, “you will never die.”
+
+
+
+
+XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection
+for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that
+we almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing
+in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the
+Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem,
+heard the bell which told them they were not too late. But we took as
+much pleasure in the people, in the little boys with open, flat
+Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks, making them look
+like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained
+tightly off the temples, and mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous,
+exactly reproduced the late mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little
+tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one
+corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got
+into the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and
+their vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and
+the official came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place
+we should get to if we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic
+people, and he asked us (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness
+and French rationalism) where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question
+was whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great
+deal of international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the
+Flemish and we in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would
+take us to a place which I have never seen written down, but which when
+spoken sounded like the word “Waterloo” pronounced by an intoxicated
+patriot; I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from
+boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field of
+Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was in quite a
+different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads, with one cottage at the
+corner, a perspective of tall trees like Hobbema’s “Avenue,” and beyond
+only the infinite flat chess-board of the little fields. It was the
+scene of peace and prosperity; but I must confess that my friend’s first
+action was to ask the man when there would be another train back to
+Mechlin. The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one
+hour. We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour’s
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+.....
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and, finding
+the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief. The officer on
+this train could speak nothing but Flemish, but he understood the name
+Mechlin, and indicated that when we came to Mechlin Station he would put
+us down, which, after the right interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling. And
+if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you, why should
+it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails? But on this
+soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line of the Netherlands
+or the fact that we were returning home without any adventure, I really
+did think things a trifle dreary. As soon as we could creep under the
+shelter of a street we turned into a little café, kept by one woman. She
+was incredibly old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee
+and what was called “cognac fine.” “Cognac fine” were the only two
+French words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At
+least, the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I, got up and went
+out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we could at once stroll back
+to our hotel by the station. I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless
+mood, and listening to the unremitting rain.
+
+.....
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured and
+frantic.
+
+“Get up!” he cried, waving his hands wildly. “Get up! We’re in the wrong
+town! We’re not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles, twenty miles
+off--God knows what! We’re somewhere near Antwerp.”
+
+“What!” I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+“Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face for an instant
+behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I was feeling depressed because
+we were in the right town. But if we are in the wrong town--why, we
+have our adventure after all! If we are in the wrong town, we are in the
+right place.”
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat more
+grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre, which seemed to
+consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks, who sold lemonade.
+
+“This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!” I cried
+enthusiastically. “We must do something, something sacramental and
+commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be a bore to
+build a temple. Let us write a poem.”
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope and one of
+those pencils that turn bright violet in water. There was plenty of
+water about, and the violet ran down the paper, symbolising the rich
+purple of that romantic hour. I began, choosing the form of an old
+French ballade; it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ “Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ “Through memory’s mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----”
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it expressed a more
+wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean. But he only turned up his
+coat collar, and I felt that for him the muse had folded her wings. I
+rewrote--
+
+ “Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre.”
+
+“The next line,” I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+“The next line,” he said somewhat harshly, “will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we have to change
+twice. I dare say I should think this jolly romantic but for the
+weather. Adventure is the champagne of life, but I prefer my champagne
+and my adventures dry. Here is the station.”
+
+.....
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred cloud of
+rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky, that even made
+one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said to my friend in a low
+voice--“I have found out everything. We have come to the wrong star.”
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: “That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world. When I
+thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it was wrong,
+I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness, tires us
+because it tells us we fit into this world. The true happiness is that
+we don’t fit. We come from somewhere else. We have lost our way.”
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had
+impressed or only fatigued him I could not tell. “This,” I added, “is
+suggested in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ “‘Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.’”
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple we
+heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with “No bally HORS
+D’OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once.”
+
+ L’Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants which
+happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909. And since I tend,
+like all who are growing old, to re-enter the remote past as a paradise
+or playground, I disinter a memory which may serve to stand among those
+memories of small but strange incidents with which I have sometimes
+filled this column. The thing has really some of the dark qualities of
+a detective-story; though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could
+hardly unravel it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the
+actors, doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth
+century, and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that
+Dr. Johnson was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over
+gravy, snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt. I
+had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions as
+I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been. I requested
+that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I might touch
+all of them but one, and then go back and touch that. Failing this, I
+felt that the least they could do was to have twenty-five cups of tea
+stationed at regular intervals along the course, each held by a Mrs.
+Thrale in full costume. My best constructive suggestion was the most
+harshly rejected of all. In front of me in the procession walked the
+great Bishop Berkeley, the man who turned the tables on the early
+materialists by maintaining that matter itself possibly does not exist.
+Dr. Johnson, you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as
+Berkeley’s, and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, “I refute him so!”
+ Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars, but
+behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot. But I
+must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities; we old men grow
+too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my assumed
+character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place at night
+in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date), that the
+garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms, and especially
+with early Celtic saints smoking pipes, and with elegant Renaissance
+gentlemen talking Cockney. Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless
+to say, that I got lost. I wandered away into some dim corner of that
+dim shrubbery, where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent
+ropes, and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man, who
+stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle. When I thought
+he would pass me, he stopped before my face, and said, “Dr. Johnson, I
+think. I am Paley.”
+
+“Sir,” I said, “you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you will
+perform a yet higher and harder function.”
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but, turning
+his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms and winding
+mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight and laughing
+men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am (you will say)
+naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient. I was, moreover,
+unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark and took a man for a
+spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise as a modern gentleman in
+a masquerade dress. No; far from it. That spectral person was my first
+introduction to a special incident which has never been explained and
+which still lays its finger on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled as one
+does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life and a great
+deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger than life; he ought
+to have been a little man in a night-cap, with a cat under one arm and
+a spaniel under the other. As it was, he was a magnificent person, and
+looked more like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog. When I
+came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful improvement upon
+himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog and cat and would not
+be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting to be kicked in the
+interests of philosophy. In short, I met all my old friends but one.
+Where was Paley? I had been mystically moved by the man’s presence; I
+was moved more by his absence. At last I saw advancing towards us
+across the twilight garden a little man with a large book and a bright
+attractive face. When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear
+voice, “I’m Paley.” The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was
+ill and had sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four or five
+colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual friend with
+Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke. Cowper, I think
+it was, who introduced me to a friend of his, a fresh face, square
+and sturdy, framed in a white wig. “This,” he explained, “is my friend
+So-and-So. He’s Paley.” I looked round at all the faces by this time
+fixed and familiar; I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the
+third Paley as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this one
+particular cleric should be so varying and elusive. It was singular
+that Paley, alone among men, should swell and shrink and alter like a
+phantom, while all else remained solid. But the thing was explicable;
+two men had been ill and there was an end of it; only I went again
+the next night, and a clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair
+bounded up to me, and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition of
+the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural explanations
+have broken down and no supernatural explanation has been established.
+My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I found myself once more in
+the colour and clatter of the pageant, and I was all the more pleased
+because I met an old school-fellow, and we mutually recognised each
+other under our heavy clothes and hoary wigs. We talked about all those
+great things for which literature is too small and only life large
+enough; red-hot memories and those gigantic details which make up the
+characters of men. I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of
+and those he had kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked
+at last how he came into the pageant.
+
+“The fact is,” he said, “a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don’t know who he was....”
+
+“No, by thunder!” I said, “nor does anyone.”
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream. I
+scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure which
+fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased. What
+could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among the faithful
+found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity or the
+unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being could support
+being Paley for one night and live till morning? Or was it that the
+gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British public thirsting
+to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time? Or is there some
+ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret society of Deists still
+assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery; and that
+for two reasons. First, the story is so true that I have had to put a
+lie into it. Every word of this narrative is veracious, except the one
+word Paley. And second, because I have got to go into the next room and
+dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
+
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+<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
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+country where you are located before using this eBook.
+</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Tremendous Trifles</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: G. K. Chesterton</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: June 13, 2003 [eBook #8092]<br />
+[Most recently updated: April 27, 2022]</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: An Anonymous Volunteer</div>
+<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***</div>
+
+<h1>TREMENDOUS TRIFLES</h1>
+
+<h2 class="no-break">By G. K. Chesterton</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+<table summary="" style="">
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_PREF">PREFACE</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0002">I. Tremendous Trifles</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0003">II. A Piece of Chalk</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0004">III. The Secret of a Train</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0005">IV. The Perfect Game</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0006">V. The Extraordinary Cabman</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0007">VI. An Accident</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0008">VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0009">VIII. The End of the World</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0010">IX. In the Place de La Bastille</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0011">X. On Lying in Bed</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0012">XI. The Twelve Men</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0013">XII. The Wind and the Trees</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0014">XIII. The Dickensian</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0015">XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0016">XV. What I Found in My Pocket</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0017">XVI. The Dragon&rsquo;s Grandmother</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0018">XVII. The Red Angel</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0019">XVIII. The Tower</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0020">XIX. How I Met the President</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0021">XX. The Giant</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0022">XXI. A Great Man</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0023">XXII. The Orthodox Barber</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0024">XXIII. The Toy Theatre</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0025">XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0026">XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0027">XXVI. The Two Noises</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0028">XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0029">XXVIII. The Lion</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0030">XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0031">XXX. The Little Birds Who Won&rsquo;t Sing</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0032">XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0033">XXXII. The Travellers in State</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0034">XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0035">XXXIV. The Diabolist</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0036">XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0037">XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0038">XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0039">XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#link2H_4_0040">XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"></a>
+PREFACE</h2>
+ <p>
+ These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission of the
+ Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared. They amount to no
+ more than a sort of sporadic diary&mdash;a diary recording one day in
+ twenty which happened to stick in the fancy&mdash;the only kind of diary
+ the author has ever been able to keep. Even that diary he could only keep
+ by keeping it in public, for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the
+ topics they are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive. As the
+ reader&rsquo;s eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages, it probably
+ alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post, a window blind or a wall.
+ It is a thousand to one that the reader is looking at something that he
+ has never seen: that is, never realised. He could not write an essay on
+ such a post or wall: he does not know what the post or wall mean. He could
+ not even write the synopsis of an essay; as &ldquo;The Bed-Post; Its
+ Significance&mdash;Security Essential to Idea of Sleep&mdash;Night Felt as
+ Infinite&mdash;Need of Monumental Architecture,&rdquo; and so on. He could not
+ sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards window-blinds, even in
+ the form of a summary. &ldquo;The Window-Blind&mdash;Its Analogy to the Curtain
+ and Veil&mdash;Is Modesty Natural?&mdash;Worship of and Avoidance of the
+ Sun, etc., etc.&rdquo; None of us think enough of these things on which the eye
+ rests. But don&rsquo;t let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy?
+ Let us exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that run
+ across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be ocular
+ athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or a coloured cloud.
+ I have attempted some such thing in what follows; but anyone else may do
+ it better, if anyone else will only try.
+ </p>
+
+ <hr />
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"></a>
+I. Tremendous Trifles</h2>
+ <p>
+ Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly in the front
+ garden, because their villa was a model one. The front garden was about
+ the same size as the dinner table; it consisted of four strips of gravel,
+ a square of turf with some mysterious pieces of cork standing up in the
+ middle and one flower bed with a row of red daisies. One morning while
+ they were at play in these romantic grounds, a passing individual,
+ probably the milkman, leaned over the railing and engaged them in
+ philosophical conversation. The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter,
+ were at least sharply interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who was,
+ I need say, a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering them
+ in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for. And Paul
+ closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness, explaining that he
+ had long wished to be a giant that he might stride across continents and
+ oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas in an afternoon dinner stroll.
+ The milkman producing a wand from his breast pocket, waved it in a hurried
+ and perfunctory manner; and in an instant the model villa with its front
+ garden was like a tiny doll&rsquo;s house at Paul&rsquo;s colossal feet. He went
+ striding away with his head above the clouds to visit Niagara and the
+ Himalayas. But when he came to the Himalayas, he found they were quite
+ small and silly-looking, like the little cork rockery in the garden; and
+ when he found Niagara it was no bigger than the tap turned on in the
+ bathroom. He wandered round the world for several minutes trying to find
+ something really large and finding everything small, till in sheer boredom
+ he lay down on four or five prairies and fell asleep. Unfortunately his
+ head was just outside the hut of an intellectual backwoodsman who came out
+ of it at that moment with an axe in one hand and a book of Neo-Catholic
+ Philosophy in the other. The man looked at the book and then at the giant,
+ and then at the book again. And in the book it said, &ldquo;It can be maintained
+ that the evil of pride consists in being out of proportion to the
+ universe.&rdquo; So the backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and,
+ working eight hours a day for about a week, cut the giant&rsquo;s head off; and
+ there was an end of him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly enough,
+ made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long wished to be a
+ pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he immediately became one.
+ When the transformation was over he found himself in the midst of an
+ immense plain, covered with a tall green jungle and above which, at
+ intervals, rose strange trees each with a head like the sun in symbolic
+ pictures, with gigantic rays of silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward
+ the middle of this prairie stood up a mountain of such romantic and
+ impossible shape, yet of such stony height and dominance, that it looked
+ like some incident of the end of the world. And far away on the faint
+ horizon he could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more
+ mystical, of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever. He
+ set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has not come
+ to the end of it yet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+ qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit for
+ children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced it is not
+ childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction. It is in fact the
+ almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating the pages that follow.
+ Peter and Paul are the two primary influences upon European literature
+ to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own preference in its most
+ favourable shape, even if I can only do it by what little girls call
+ telling a story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+ that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+ existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other great
+ literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England by Mr.
+ Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest by
+ sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+ variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere. Let it
+ be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight; and the two
+ alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling&rsquo;s school advises us to go to
+ Central Africa in order to find a man without a frock coat. The school to
+ which I belong suggests that we should stare steadily at the man until we
+ see the man inside the frock coat. If we stare at him long enough he may
+ even be moved to take off his coat to us; and that is a far greater
+ compliment than his taking off his hat. In other words, we may, by fixing
+ our attention almost fiercely on the facts actually before us, force them
+ to turn into adventures; force them to give up their meaning and fulfil
+ their mysterious purpose. The purpose of the Kipling literature is to show
+ how many extraordinary things a man may see if he is active and strides
+ from continent to continent like the giant in my tale. But the object of
+ my school is to show how many extraordinary things even a lazy and
+ ordinary man may see if he can spur himself to the single activity of
+ seeing. For this purpose I have taken the laziest person of my
+ acquaintance, that is myself; and made an idle diary of such odd things as
+ I have fallen over by accident, in walking in a very limited area at a
+ very indolent pace. If anyone says that these are very small affairs
+ talked about in very big language, I can only gracefully compliment him
+ upon seeing the joke. If anyone says that I am making mountains out of
+ molehills, I confess with pride that it is so. I can imagine no more
+ successful and productive form of manufacture than that of making
+ mountains out of molehills. But I would add this not unimportant fact,
+ that molehills are mountains; one has only to become a pigmy like Peter to
+ discover that.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering, in getting
+ to the top of everything and overlooking everything. Satan was the most
+ celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took Jesus to the top of an exceeding
+ high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the earth. But the joy of
+ Satan in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness, but a joy in
+ beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like insects at his
+ feet. It is from the valley that things look large; it is from the level
+ that things look high; I am a child of the level and have no need of that
+ celebrated Alpine guide. I will lift up my eyes to the hills, from whence
+ cometh my help; but I will not lift up my carcass to the hills, unless it
+ is absolutely necessary. Everything is in an attitude of mind; and at this
+ moment I am in a comfortable attitude. I will sit still and let the
+ marvels and the adventures settle on me like flies. There are plenty of
+ them, I assure you. The world will never starve for want of wonders; but
+ only for want of wonder.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"></a>
+II. A Piece of Chalk</h2>
+ <p>
+ I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+ holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+ nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up a
+ walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket. I
+ then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+ belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village), and
+ asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any brown paper.
+ She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she mistook the
+ purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper. She seemed to
+ have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must be wanting to tie
+ up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to do; indeed, it is a thing
+ which I have found to be beyond my mental capacity. Hence she dwelt very
+ much on the varying qualities of toughness and endurance in the material.
+ I explained to her that I only wanted to draw pictures on it, and that I
+ did not want them to endure in the least; and that from my point of view,
+ therefore, it was a question, not of tough consistency, but of responsive
+ surface, a thing comparatively irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood
+ that I wanted to draw she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper,
+ apparently supposing that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown
+ paper wrappers from motives of economy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I not only
+ liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness in paper, just as I
+ liked the quality of brownness in October woods, or in beer, or in the
+ peat-streams of the North. Brown paper represents the primal twilight of
+ the first toil of creation, and with a bright-coloured chalk or two you
+ can pick out points of fire in it, sparks of gold, and blood-red, and
+ sea-green, like the first fierce stars that sprang out of divine darkness.
+ All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman; and I put the brown
+ paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and possibly other things. I
+ suppose every one must have reflected how primeval and how poetical are
+ the things that one carries in one&rsquo;s pocket; the pocket-knife, for
+ instance, the type of all human tools, the infant of the sword. Once I
+ planned to write a book of poems entirely about the things in my pockets.
+ But I found it would be too long; and the age of the great epics is past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper, I went out on to
+ the great downs. I crawled across those colossal contours that express the
+ best quality of England, because they are at the same time soft and
+ strong. The smoothness of them has the same meaning as the smoothness of
+ great cart-horses, or the smoothness of the beech-tree; it declares in the
+ teeth of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty are merciful. As my
+ eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly as any of its
+ cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake. The villages in the
+ immense valley were safe, one could see, for centuries; yet the lifting of
+ the whole land was like the lifting of one enormous wave to wash them all
+ away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place to
+ sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven&rsquo;s sake, imagine I was going to
+ sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim, and blind old
+ gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right, and saints in robes of
+ angry crimson, and seas of strange green, and all the sacred or monstrous
+ symbols that look so well in bright colours on brown paper. They are much
+ better worth drawing than Nature; also they are much easier to draw. When
+ a cow came slouching by in the field next to me, a mere artist might have
+ drawn it; but I always get wrong in the hind legs of quadrupeds. So I drew
+ the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly walking before me in the
+ sunlight; and the soul was all purple and silver, and had seven horns and
+ the mystery that belongs to all the beasts. But though I could not with a
+ crayon get the best out of the landscape, it does not follow that the
+ landscape was not getting the best out of me. And this, I think, is the
+ mistake that people make about the old poets who lived before Wordsworth,
+ and were supposed not to care very much about Nature because they did not
+ describe it much.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills; but
+ they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much less about
+ Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They painted the white
+ robes of their holy virgins with the blinding snow, at which they had
+ stared all day. They blazoned the shields of their paladins with the
+ purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets. The greenness of a thousand
+ green leaves clustered into the live green figure of Robin Hood. The
+ blueness of a score of forgotten skies became the blue robes of the
+ Virgin. The inspiration went in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began to
+ dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that a
+ most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets, but
+ I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted with all
+ the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art of drawing on
+ brown paper, know that white is positive and essential. I cannot avoid
+ remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the wise and awful truths
+ which this brown-paper art reveals, is this, that white is a colour. It is
+ not a mere absence of colour; it is a shining and affirmative thing, as
+ fierce as red, as definite as black. When, so to speak, your pencil grows
+ red-hot, it draws roses; when it grows white-hot, it draws stars. And one
+ of the two or three defiant verities of the best religious morality, of
+ real Christianity, for example, is exactly this same thing; the chief
+ assertion of religious morality is that white is a colour. Virtue is not
+ the absence of vices or the avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid
+ and separate thing, like pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean
+ not being cruel or sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a plain
+ and positive thing like the sun, which one has either seen or not seen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means something
+ flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in many colours; but He
+ never paints so gorgeously, I had almost said so gaudily, as when He
+ paints in white. In a sense our age has realised this fact, and expressed
+ it in our sullen costume. For if it were really true that white was a
+ blank and colourless thing, negative and non-committal, then white would
+ be used instead of black and grey for the funeral dress of this
+ pessimistic period. We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of
+ spotless silver linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies.
+ Which is not the case.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town nearer than
+ Chichester at which it was even remotely probable that there would be such
+ a thing as an artist&rsquo;s colourman. And yet, without white, my absurd little
+ pictures would be as pointless as the world would be if there were no good
+ people in it. I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for expedients.
+ Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and again, so
+ that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine a man in the
+ Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass. Imagine a
+ gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some salt water with
+ him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on an immense warehouse of
+ white chalk. The landscape was made entirely out of white chalk. White
+ chalk was piled more miles until it met the sky. I stooped and broke a
+ piece off the rock I sat on; it did not mark so well as the shop chalks
+ do; but it gave the effect. And I stood there in a trance of pleasure,
+ realising that this Southern England is not only a grand peninsula, and a
+ tradition and a civilisation; it is something even more admirable. It is a
+ piece of chalk.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"></a>
+III. The Secret of a Train</h2>
+ <p>
+ All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a loose
+ memory. I will not merely say that this story is true: because, as you
+ will soon see, it is all truth and no story. It has no explanation and no
+ conclusion; it is, like most of the other things we encounter in life, a
+ fragment of something else which would be intensely exciting if it were
+ not too large to be seen. For the perplexity of life arises from there
+ being too many interesting things in it for us to be interested properly
+ in any of them; what we call its triviality is really the tag-ends of
+ numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like ten thousand
+ thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon. My experience was a
+ fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate, not fictitious. Not only
+ am I not making up the incidents (what there were of them), but I am not
+ making up the atmosphere of the landscape, which were the whole horror of
+ the thing. I remember them vividly, and they were as I shall now describe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing outside
+ the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London. And for some
+ reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind or the emptiness of
+ the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice fell upon me that I
+ would not go by that train at all, but would step out on the road and walk
+ at least some part of the way to London. I do not know if other people are
+ made like me in this matter; but to me it is always dreary weather, what
+ may be called useless weather, that slings into life a sense of action and
+ romance. On bright blue days I do not want anything to happen; the world
+ is complete and beautiful, a thing for contemplation. I no more ask for
+ adventures under that turquoise dome than I ask for adventures in church.
+ But when the background of man&rsquo;s life is a grey background, then, in the
+ name of man&rsquo;s sacred supremacy, I desire to paint on it in fire and gore.
+ When the heavens fail man refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have
+ written on it, in letters of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing
+ shall happen, then the immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises
+ up and decrees that something shall happen, if it be only the slaughter of
+ a policeman. But this is a digressive way of stating what I have said
+ already&mdash;that the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger for some change of
+ plans, that the monotonous weather seemed to render unbearable the use of
+ the monotonous train, and that I set out into the country lanes, out of
+ the town of Oxford. It was, perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse
+ came upon me out of the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that
+ years afterwards I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir
+ George Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+ that he went to Cambridge.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless. The fields
+ that should have been green were as grey as the skies; the tree-tops that
+ should have been green were as grey as the clouds and as cloudy. And when
+ I had walked for some hours the evening was closing in. A sickly sunset
+ clung weakly to the horizon, as if pale with reluctance to leave the world
+ in the dark. And as it faded more and more the skies seemed to come closer
+ and to threaten. The clouds which had been merely sullen became swollen;
+ and then they loosened and let down the dark curtains of the rain. The
+ rain was blinding and seemed to beat like blows from an enemy at close
+ quarters; the skies seemed bending over and bawling in my ears. I walked
+ on many more miles before I met a man, and in that distance my mind had
+ been made up; and when I met him I asked him if anywhere in the
+ neighbourhood I could pick up the train for Paddington. He directed me to
+ a small silent station (I cannot even remember the name of it) which stood
+ well away from the road and looked as lonely as a hut on the Andes. I do
+ not think I have ever seen such a type of time and sadness and scepticism
+ and everything devilish as that station was: it looked as if it had always
+ been raining there ever since the creation of the world. The water
+ streamed from the soaking wood of it as if it were not water at all, but
+ some loathsome liquid corruption of the wood itself; as if the solid
+ station were eternally falling to pieces and pouring away in filth. It
+ took me nearly ten minutes to find a man in the station. When I did he was
+ a dull one, and when I asked him if there was a train to Paddington his
+ answer was sleepy and vague. As far as I understood him, he said there
+ would be a train in half an hour. I sat down and lit a cigar and waited,
+ watching the last tail of the tattered sunset and listening to the
+ everlasting rain. It may have been in half an hour or less, but a train
+ came rather slowly into the station. It was an unnaturally dark train; I
+ could not see a light anywhere in the long black body of it; and I could
+ not see any guard running beside it. I was reduced to walking up to the
+ engine and calling out to the stoker to ask if the train was going to
+ London. &ldquo;Well&mdash;yes, sir,&rdquo; he said, with an unaccountable kind of
+ reluctance. &ldquo;It is going to London; but&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; It was just
+ starting, and I jumped into the first carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat
+ there smoking and wondering, as we steamed through the continually
+ darkening landscape, lined with desolate poplars, until we slowed down and
+ stopped, irrationally, in the middle of a field. I heard a heavy noise as
+ of some one clambering off the train, and a dark, ragged head suddenly put
+ itself into my window. &ldquo;Excuse me, sir,&rdquo; said the stoker, &ldquo;but I think,
+ perhaps&mdash;well, perhaps you ought to know&mdash;there&rsquo;s a dead man in
+ this train.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities and
+ nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be finally
+ overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have insisted on getting
+ out and walking. As it was, I regret to say, I expressed myself politely,
+ but firmly, to the effect that I didn&rsquo;t care particularly if the train
+ took me to Paddington. But when the train had started with its unknown
+ burden I did do one thing, and do it quite instinctively, without stopping
+ to think, or to think more than a flash. I threw away my cigar. Something
+ that is as old as man and has to do with all mourning and ceremonial told
+ me to do it. There was something unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me,
+ in the idea of there being only two men in that train, and one of them
+ dead and the other smoking a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt
+ end of it faded like a funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic moment
+ of a procession, I realised how immortal ritual is. I realised (what is
+ the origin and essence of all ritual) that in the presence of those sacred
+ riddles about which we can say nothing it is more decent merely to do
+ something. And I realised that ritual will always mean throwing away
+ something; DESTROYING our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang out of it
+ with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier and officials
+ guarding the rear part of the train; no one was allowed to press towards
+ it. They were guarding and hiding something; perhaps death in some too
+ shocking form, perhaps something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up
+ with human mystery and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of
+ sanctity; perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough
+ into the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces. Nor have
+ I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I wandered or
+ what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"></a>
+IV. The Perfect Game</h2>
+ <p>
+ We have all met the man who says that some odd things have happened to
+ him, but that he does not really believe that they were supernatural. My
+ own position is the opposite of this. I believe in the supernatural as a
+ matter of intellect and reason, not as a matter of personal experience. I
+ do not see ghosts; I only see their inherent probability. But it is
+ entirely a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions; my
+ nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy. But upon people
+ of this temperament one weird incident will often leave a peculiar
+ impression. And the weirdest circumstance that ever occurred to me
+ occurred a little while ago. It consisted in nothing less than my playing
+ a game, and playing it quite well for some seventeen consecutive minutes.
+ The ghost of my grandfather would have astonished me less.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+ inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had imagined
+ that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope, and I had
+ neglected to provide myself with those very long and luxuriant side
+ whiskers which are really essential to such a scene. I played it with a
+ man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had a semi-philosophical
+ argument which lasted through the entire contest. It is deeply implanted
+ in my mind that I had the best of the argument; but it is certain and
+ beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!&rdquo; I cried, patting him affectionately on the
+ head with a mallet, &ldquo;how far you really are from the pure love of the
+ sport&mdash;you who can play. It is only we who play badly who love the
+ Game itself. You love glory; you love applause; you love the earthquake
+ voice of victory; you do not love croquet. You do not love croquet until
+ you love being beaten at croquet. It is we the bunglers who adore the
+ occupation in the abstract. It is we to whom it is art for art&rsquo;s sake. If
+ we may see the face of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself) we are
+ content to see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is called
+ amateurish; and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs is but
+ the French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady, the most
+ disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates (I allude to
+ the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls, impetuous and
+ full of chivalry, will not be confined within the pedantic boundaries of
+ the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek honour in the ends of the earth;
+ they turn up in the flower-beds and the conservatory; they are to be found
+ in the front garden and the next street. No, Parkinson! The good painter
+ has skill. It is the bad painter who loves his art. The good musician
+ loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With such a pure and
+ hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game itself. I love the
+ parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or tape, as if its limits
+ were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland, the four seas of Britain. I
+ love the mere swing of the mallets, and the click of the balls is music.
+ The four colours are to me sacramental and symbolic, like the red of
+ martyrdom, or the white of Easter Day. You lose all this, my poor
+ Parkinson. You have to solace yourself for the absence of this vision by
+ the paltry consolation of being able to go through hoops and to hit the
+ stick.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don&rsquo;t be too sorry for me,&rdquo; said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm. &ldquo;I
+ shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more a man likes a
+ game the better he would want to play it. Granted that the pleasure in the
+ thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure of success come naturally
+ and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your own simile of the Knight and his
+ Lady-love. I admit the gentleman does first and foremost want to be in the
+ lady&rsquo;s presence. But I never yet heard of a gentleman who wanted to look
+ an utter ass when he was there.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perhaps not; though he generally looks it,&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;But the truth is
+ that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+ happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which can
+ be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking, the
+ jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the love of
+ both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not true that
+ the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger will be the
+ game. It is logically possible&mdash;(follow me closely here, Parkinson!)&mdash;it
+ is logically possible, to play croquet too well to enjoy it at all. If you
+ could put this blue ball through that distant hoop as easily as you could
+ pick it up with your hand, then you would not put it through that hoop any
+ more than you pick it up with your hand; it would not be worth doing. If
+ you could play unerringly you would not play at all. The moment the game
+ is perfect the game disappears.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I do not think, however,&rdquo; said Parkinson, &ldquo;that you are in any immediate
+ danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not think your croquet
+ will vanish through its own faultless excellence. You are safe for the
+ present.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired myself,
+ and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this time it
+ was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four more fundamental
+ principles, and my companion had gone through five more hoops, the dusk
+ was verging upon dark.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We shall have to give this up,&rdquo; said Parkinson, as he missed a ball
+ almost for the first time, &ldquo;I can&rsquo;t see a thing.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nor can I,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;and it is a comfort to reflect that I could not
+ hit anything if I saw it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+ towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+ Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+ indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+ again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was the
+ right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that impossible
+ ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I supposed was the vague
+ direction of the quite invisible stick. And in the dead silence I heard
+ the stick rattle as the ball struck it heavily.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I threw down my mallet. &ldquo;I can&rsquo;t stand this,&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;My ball has gone
+ right three times. These things are not of this world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Pick your mallet up,&rdquo; said Parkinson, &ldquo;have another go.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I tell you I daren&rsquo;t. If I made another hoop like that I should see all
+ the devils dancing there on the blessed grass.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why devils?&rdquo; asked Parkinson; &ldquo;they may be only fairies making fun of
+ you. They are sending you the &lsquo;Perfect Game,&rsquo; which is no game.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness, in which the
+ faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across the grass as if it
+ burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball somewhere&mdash;somewhere
+ where another ball might be. I heard the dull click of the balls touching,
+ and ran into the house like one pursued.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"></a>
+V. The Extraordinary Cabman</h2>
+ <p>
+ From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+ narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+ insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper columns. I
+ mean only that I have found that my meaning was better expressed by some
+ practical parable out of daily life than by any other method; therefore I
+ propose to narrate the incident of the extraordinary cabman, which
+ occurred to me only three days ago, and which, slight as it apparently is,
+ aroused in me a moment of genuine emotion bordering upon despair.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching in a little
+ restaurant in Soho in company with three or four of my best friends. My
+ best friends are all either bottomless sceptics or quite uncontrollable
+ believers, so our discussion at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate and
+ terrible ideas. And the whole argument worked out ultimately to this: that
+ the question is whether a man can be certain of anything at all. I think
+ he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend, furiously brandishing
+ an empty bottle) it is impossible intellectually to entertain certainty,
+ what is this certainty which it is impossible to entertain? If I have
+ never experienced such a thing as certainty I cannot even say that a thing
+ is not certain. Similarly, if I have never experienced such a thing as
+ green I cannot even say that my nose is not green. It may be as green as
+ possible for all I know, if I have really no experience of greenness. So
+ we shouted at each other and shook the room; because metaphysics is the
+ only thoroughly emotional thing. And the difference between us was very
+ deep, because it was a difference as to the object of the whole thing
+ called broad-mindedness or the opening of the intellect. For my friend
+ said that he opened his intellect as the sun opens the fans of a palm
+ tree, opening for opening&rsquo;s sake, opening infinitely for ever. But I said
+ that I opened my intellect as I opened my mouth, in order to shut it again
+ on something solid. I was doing it at the moment. And as I truly pointed
+ out, it would look uncommonly silly if I went on opening my mouth
+ infinitely, for ever and ever.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short (for it
+ will never be over), I went away with one of my companions, who in the
+ confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election had somehow
+ become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab from the
+ corner of Leicester-square to the members&rsquo; entrance of the House of
+ Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+ Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper is a
+ discussion between us which still continues.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude of
+ detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab on a few
+ hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I had to visit. I then
+ got out and offered him more than his fare. He looked at it, but not with
+ the surly doubt and general disposition to try it on which is not unknown
+ among normal cabmen. But this was no normal, perhaps, no human, cabman. He
+ looked at it with a dull and infantile astonishment, clearly quite
+ genuine. &ldquo;Do you know, sir,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;you&rsquo;ve only given me 1s.8d?&rdquo; I
+ remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. &ldquo;Now you know, sir,&rdquo;
+ said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, &ldquo;you know that ain&rsquo;t the
+ fare from Euston.&rdquo; &ldquo;Euston,&rdquo; I repeated vaguely, for the phrase at that
+ moment sounded to me like China or Arabia. &ldquo;What on earth has Euston got
+ to do with it?&rdquo; &ldquo;You hailed me just outside Euston Station,&rdquo; began the man
+ with astonishing precision, &ldquo;and then you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; &ldquo;What in the
+ name of Tartarus are you talking about?&rdquo; I said with Christian
+ forbearance; &ldquo;I took you at the south-west corner of Leicester-square.&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;Leicester-square,&rdquo; he exclaimed, loosening a kind of cataract of scorn,
+ &ldquo;why we ain&rsquo;t been near Leicester-square to-day. You hailed me outside
+ Euston Station, and you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; &ldquo;Are you mad, or am I?&rdquo; I
+ asked with scientific calm.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would think of creating
+ so solid and colossal and creative a lie. And this man was not a dishonest
+ cabman. If ever a human face was heavy and simple and humble, and with
+ great big blue eyes protruding like a frog&rsquo;s, if ever (in short) a human
+ face was all that a human face should be, it was the face of that
+ resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and down the street; an
+ unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming on. And for one second the old
+ nightmare of the sceptic put its finger on my nerve. What was certainty?
+ Was anybody certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the dull rut of the
+ sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future life. The exciting
+ question for real scepticism is whether we possess a past life. What is a
+ minute ago, rationalistically considered, except a tradition and a
+ picture? The darkness grew deeper from the road. The cabman calmly gave me
+ the most elaborate details of the gesture, the words, the complex but
+ consistent course of action which I had adopted since that remarkable
+ occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston Station. How did I know (my
+ sceptical friends would say) that I had not hailed him outside Euston. I
+ was firm about my assertion; he was quite equally firm about his. He was
+ obviously quite as honest a man as I, and a member of a much more
+ respectable profession. In that moment the universe and the stars swung
+ just a hair&rsquo;s breadth from their balance, and the foundations of the earth
+ were moved. But for the same reason that I believe in Democracy, for the
+ same reason that I believe in free will, for the same reason that I
+ believe in fixed character of virtue, the reason that could only be
+ expressed by saying that I do not choose to be a lunatic, I continued to
+ believe that this honest cabman was wrong, and I repeated to him that I
+ had really taken him at the corner of Leicester-square. He began with the
+ same evident and ponderous sincerity, &ldquo;You hailed me outside Euston
+ Station, and you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And at this moment there came over his features a kind of frightful
+ transfiguration of living astonishment, as if he had been lit up like a
+ lamp from the inside. &ldquo;Why, I beg your pardon, sir,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;I beg your
+ pardon. I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I remember
+ now. I beg your pardon.&rdquo; And with that this astonishing man let out his
+ whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away. The whole of
+ which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear, is strictly
+ true.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance and the
+ mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying that although his
+ face had seemed so honest there was something unearthly and demoniac about
+ him when seen from behind. Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me from my
+ adherence to those sanities and certainties which I had defended earlier
+ in the day. In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that my sense of
+ reality, though it had rocked for an instant, had remained erect.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"></a>
+VI. An Accident</h2>
+ <p>
+ Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called &ldquo;The
+ Extraordinary Cabman.&rdquo; I am now in a position to contribute my experience
+ of a still more extraordinary cab. The extraordinary thing about the cab
+ was that it did not like me; it threw me out violently in the middle of
+ the Strand. If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are as romantic (and as
+ rich) as I take them to be, I presume that this experience is not
+ uncommon. I suppose that they are all being thrown out of cabs, all over
+ London. Still, as there are some people, virginal and remote from the
+ world, who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I will give a short
+ account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab ran into the side
+ of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab&mdash;that
+ one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged, will
+ gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that it is both
+ secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in these two
+ respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came to grief. But
+ it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it belongs to a
+ beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is pretending to be
+ richer than they are, and acting as if they were. It is comfortable, and
+ yet it is reckless; and that combination is the very soul of England. But
+ although I had always realised all these good qualities in a hansom cab, I
+ had not experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put it, all
+ the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits of a hansom cab
+ had been always made when it was the right way up. Let me, therefore,
+ explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom cab for the first and, I am
+ happy to believe, the last time. Polycrates threw one ring into the sea to
+ propitiate the Fates. I have thrown one hansom cab into the sea (if you
+ will excuse a rather violent metaphor) and the Fates are, I am quite sure,
+ propitiated. Though I am told they do not like to be told so.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one of the sloping
+ streets into the Strand, reading one of my own admirable articles with
+ continual pleasure, and still more continual surprise, when the horse fell
+ forward, scrambled a moment on the scraping stones, staggered to his feet
+ again, and went forward. The horses in my cabs often do this, and I have
+ learnt to enjoy my own articles at any angle of the vehicle. So I did not
+ see anything at all odd about the way the horse went on again. But I saw
+ it suddenly in the faces of all the people on the pavement. They were all
+ turned towards me, and they were all struck with fear suddenly, as with a
+ white flame out of the sky. And one man half ran out into the road with a
+ movement of the elbow as if warding off a blow, and tried to stop the
+ horse. Then I knew that the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse
+ was like a living thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly as they
+ seemed to me; many details I may have missed or mis-stated; many details
+ may have, so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road. I remember that
+ I once called one of my experiences narrated in this paper &ldquo;A Fragment of
+ Fact.&rdquo; This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact. No fact could possibly be
+ more fragmentary than the sort of fact that I expected to be at the bottom
+ of that street.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally found that
+ the converted do not understand their own religion. Thus I have always
+ urged in this paper that democracy has a deeper meaning than democrats
+ understand; that is, that common and popular things, proverbs, and
+ ordinary sayings always have something in them unrealised by most who
+ repeat them. Here is one. We have all heard about the man who is in
+ momentary danger, and who sees the whole of his life pass before him in a
+ moment. In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is obviously
+ a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident or a mortal
+ crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets he had ever taken to
+ Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever passed the brown bread and
+ butter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards the traffic of
+ the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth behind this phrase, as
+ there is behind all popular phrases. I did really have, in that short and
+ shrieking period, a rapid succession of a number of fundamental points of
+ view. I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as many seconds.
+ My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere men is more
+ shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded a state of mind
+ which is quite real, but for which no proper name has ever been found. The
+ ancients called it Stoicism, and I think it must be what some German
+ lunatics mean (if they mean anything) when they talk about Pessimism. It
+ was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that happens&mdash;as if one
+ had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously enough, came a very
+ strong contrary feeling&mdash;that things mattered very much indeed, and
+ yet that they were something more than tragic. It was a feeling, not that
+ life was unimportant, but that life was much too important ever to be
+ anything but life. I hope that this was Christianity. At any rate, it
+ occurred at the moment when we went crash into the omnibus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me, like
+ an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling out from underneath
+ it in attitudes so undignified that they must have added enormously to
+ that great cause to which the Anti-Puritan League and I have recently
+ dedicated ourselves. I mean the cause of the pleasures of the people. As
+ to my demeanour when I emerged, I have two confessions to make, and they
+ are both made merely in the interests of mental science. The first is that
+ whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the moment before the
+ collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got off with a cut or two
+ I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear. A man offered me a
+ newspaper or something that I had dropped. I can distinctly remember
+ consigning the paper to a state of irremediable spiritual ruin. I am very
+ sorry for this now, and I apologise both to the man and to the paper. I
+ have not the least idea what was the meaning of this unnatural anger; I
+ mention it as a psychological confession. It was immediately followed by
+ extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly jokes to the policeman that he
+ disgraced himself by continual laughter before all the little boys in the
+ street, who had hitherto taken him seriously.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention as a
+ curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain. At intervals of about
+ every three minutes I kept on reminding the policeman that I had not paid
+ the cabman, and that I hoped he would not lose his money. He said it would
+ be all right, and the man would appear. But it was not until about half an
+ hour afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a shock intolerable that
+ the man might conceivably have lost more than half a crown; that he had
+ been in danger as well as I. I had instinctively regarded the cabman as
+ something uplifted above accidents, a god. I immediately made inquiries,
+ and I am happy to say that they seemed to have been unnecessary.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more delicate
+ charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin, and neglect
+ the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I was once really
+ tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might have been dead. Some
+ admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross Hospital tied up my
+ small injury, and I went out again into the Strand. I felt upon me even a
+ kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something untried. So to open a
+ new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"></a>
+VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg</h2>
+ <p>
+ A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement and casting
+ about for some phrase of consolation that should not be either insolent or
+ weak, said at last, &ldquo;I think one can live through these great sorrows and
+ even be the better. What wears one is the little worries.&rdquo; &ldquo;That&rsquo;s quite
+ right, mum,&rdquo; answered the old woman with emphasis, &ldquo;and I ought to know,
+ seeing I&rsquo;ve had ten of &rsquo;em.&rdquo; It is, perhaps, in this sense that it is most
+ true that little worries are most wearing. In its vaguer significance the
+ phrase, though it contains a truth, contains also some possibilities of
+ self-deception and error. People who have both small troubles and big ones
+ have the right to say that they find the small ones the most bitter; and
+ it is undoubtedly true that the back which is bowed under loads incredible
+ can feel a faint addition to those loads; a giant holding up the earth and
+ all its animal creation might still find the grasshopper a burden. But I
+ am afraid that the maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is
+ sometimes used or abused by people, because they have nothing but the very
+ smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the crumpled
+ rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity she would wear the
+ crown of thorns&mdash;if she had to. The gentleman may permit himself to
+ curse the dinner and tell himself that he would behave much better if it
+ were a mere matter of starvation. We need not deny that the grasshopper on
+ man&rsquo;s shoulder is a burden; but we need not pay much respect to the
+ gentleman who is always calling out that he would rather have an elephant
+ when he knows there are no elephants in the country. We may concede that a
+ straw may break the camel&rsquo;s back, but we like to know that it really is
+ the last straw and not the first.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right to grumble,
+ so long as they grumble about something else. It is a singular fact that
+ if they are sane they almost always do grumble about something else. To
+ talk quite reasonably about your own quite real wrongs is the quickest way
+ to go off your head. But people with great troubles talk about little
+ ones, and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very often has
+ his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly a very clear and
+ happy daily life then I think we are justified in asking that he shall not
+ make mountains out of molehills. I do not deny that molehills can sometimes
+ be important. Small annoyances have this evil about them, that they can be
+ more abrupt because they are more invisible; they cast no shadow before,
+ they have no atmosphere. No one ever had a mystical premonition that he
+ was going to tumble over a hassock. William III. died by falling over a
+ molehill; I do not suppose that with all his varied abilities he could
+ have managed to fall over a mountain. But when all this is allowed for, I
+ repeat that we may ask a happy man (not William III.) to put up with pure
+ inconveniences, and even make them part of his happiness. Of positive pain
+ or positive poverty I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable
+ accidental limitations that are always falling across our path&mdash;bad
+ weather, confinement to this or that house or room, failure of
+ appointments or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts,
+ finding unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse, finding
+ punctuality when we don&rsquo;t. It is of the poetic pleasures to be drawn from
+ all these that I sing&mdash;I sing with confidence because I have recently
+ been experimenting in the poetic pleasures which arise from having to sit
+ in one chair with a sprained foot, with the only alternative course of
+ standing on one leg like a stork&mdash;a stork is a poetic simile;
+ therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if the thing itself
+ symbolise something other than isolation. If we wish to see what a house
+ is it must be a house in some uninhabited landscape. If we wish to depict
+ what a man really is we must depict a man alone in a desert or on a dark
+ sea sand. So long as he is a single figure he means all that humanity
+ means; so long as he is solitary he means human society; so long as he is
+ solitary he means sociability and comradeship. Add another figure and the
+ picture is less human&mdash;not more so. One is company, two is none. If
+ you wish to symbolise human building draw one dark tower on the horizon;
+ if you wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the sky. Indeed,
+ all through that strangely lit season which we call our day there is but
+ one star in the sky&mdash;a large, fierce star which we call the sun. One
+ sun is splendid; six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of Giotto is
+ sublime; a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row of white
+ posts. The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower; the poetry of
+ nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in following the
+ single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping the single star. And
+ so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find the poetry of all human anatomy
+ in standing on a single leg. To express complete and perfect leggishness
+ the leg must stand in sublime isolation, like the tower in the wilderness.
+ As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is that which stands most
+ alone.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity of some Doric
+ column. The students of architecture tell us that the only legitimate use
+ of a column is to support weight. This column of mine fulfils its
+ legitimate function. It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic
+ consistency, it may even improve by the process, and during these few days
+ that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness or dislocation of the
+ one leg may find compensation in the astonishing strength and classic
+ beauty of the other leg. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr. George
+ Meredith&rsquo;s novel might pass by at any moment, and seeing me in the
+ stork-like attitude would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more
+ literal exactitude, &ldquo;He has a leg.&rdquo; Notice how this famous literary phrase
+ supports my contention touching this isolation of any admirable thing.
+ Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect picture of
+ human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg. She delicately
+ glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive fact that he had
+ really two legs. Two legs were superfluous and irrelevant, a reflection,
+ and a confusion. Two legs would have confused Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson
+ like two Monuments in London. That having had one good leg he should have
+ another&mdash;this would be to use vain repetitions as the Gentiles do.
+ She would have been as much bewildered by him as if he had been a
+ centipede.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender of life,
+ all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity, all desolation has
+ for its real aim this separation of something so that it may be poignantly
+ and perfectly enjoyed. I feel grateful for the slight sprain which has
+ introduced this mysterious and fascinating division between one of my feet
+ and the other. The way to love anything is to realise that it might be
+ lost. In one of my feet I can feel how strong and splendid a foot is; in
+ the other I can realise how very much otherwise it might have been. The
+ moral of the thing is wholly exhilarating. This world and all our powers
+ in it are far more awful and beautiful than even we know until some
+ accident reminds us. If you wish to perceive that limitless felicity,
+ limit yourself if only for a moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully
+ and wonderfully God&rsquo;s image is made, stand on one leg. If you want to
+ realise the splendid vision of all visible things&mdash;wink the other
+ eye.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"></a>
+VIII. The End of the World</h2>
+ <p>
+ For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious town of
+ Besançon, which stands like a sort of peninsula in a horse-shoe of river.
+ You may learn from the guide books that it was the birthplace of Victor
+ Hugo, and that it is a military station with many forts, near the French
+ frontier. But you will not learn from guide books that the very tiles on
+ the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate colour than the
+ tiles of all the other towns of the world; that the tiles look like the
+ little clouds of some strange sunset, or like the lustrous scales of some
+ strange fish. They will not tell you that in this town the eye cannot rest
+ on anything without finding it in some way attractive and even elvish, a
+ carved face at a street corner, a gleam of green fields through a stunted
+ arch, or some unexpected colour for the enamel of a spire or dome.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours so simple
+ and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together and make a fairy
+ tale. I sat down for a little outside a café with a row of little toy
+ trees in front of it, and presently the driver of a fly (as we should call
+ it) came to the same place. He was one of those very large and dark
+ Frenchmen, a type not common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian
+ Frenchman, huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was a
+ sort of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but
+ English. And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two
+ nations. For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like a
+ huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets, this Frenchman
+ was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise&mdash;as if pleasure were a
+ kind of pagan religion. After some talk which was full of the admirable
+ civility and equality of French civilisation, he suggested without either
+ eagerness or embarrassment that he should take me in his fly for an hour&rsquo;s
+ ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was growing late I
+ consented; for there was one long white road under an archway and round a
+ hill that dragged me like a long white cord. We drove through the strong,
+ squat gateway that was made by Romans, and I remember the coincidence like
+ a sort of omen that as we passed out of the city I heard simultaneously
+ the three sounds which are the trinity of France. They make what some poet
+ calls &ldquo;a tangled trinity,&rdquo; and I am not going to disentangle it. Whatever
+ those three things mean, how or why they co-exist; whether they can be
+ reconciled or perhaps are reconciled already; the three sounds I heard
+ then by an accident all at once make up the French mystery. For the brass
+ band in the Casino gardens behind me was playing with a sort of passionate
+ levity some ramping tune from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was
+ going on I heard also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible
+ loyalties and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+ fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having left
+ France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world. And, indeed,
+ there was something in the landscape wild enough to encourage such a
+ fancy. I have seen perhaps higher mountains, but I have never seen higher
+ rocks; I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and sensational,
+ splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of churches, cliffs that
+ fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from heaven. There was also a
+ quality in the ride which was not only astonishing, but rather
+ bewildering; a quality which many must have noticed if they have driven or
+ ridden rapidly up mountain roads. I mean a sense of gigantic gyration, as
+ of the whole earth turning about one&rsquo;s head. It is quite inadequate to say
+ that the hills rose and fell like enormous waves. Rather the hills seemed
+ to turn about me like the enormous sails of a windmill, a vast wheel of
+ monstrous archangelic wings. As we drove on and up into the gathering
+ purple of the sunset this dizziness increased, confounding things above
+ with things below. Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like
+ a roof. I stared at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a
+ wooded plain. Below me steeps of green swept down to the river. I stared
+ at them until I fancied that they swept up to the sky. The purple
+ darkened, night drew nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer the chasms and
+ draw higher the spires of that nightmare landscape. Above me in the
+ twilight was the huge black hulk of the driver, and his broad, blank back
+ was as mysterious as the back of Death in Watts&rsquo; picture. I felt that I
+ was growing too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things. I
+ called out to the driver in French, &ldquo;Where are you taking me?&rdquo; and it is a
+ literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same language without
+ turning around, &ldquo;To the end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark, steep ways, until I
+ saw lights under a low roof of little trees and two children, one oddly
+ beautiful, playing at ball. Then we found ourselves filling up the strict
+ main street of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was written
+ in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE&mdash;the end of the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place. I ordered
+ bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but had no name. On the
+ other side of the road was a little plain church with a cross on top of it
+ and a cock on top of the cross. This seemed to me a very good end of the
+ world; if the story of the world ended here it ended well. Then I wondered
+ whether I myself should really be content to end here, where most
+ certainly there were the best things of Christendom&mdash;a church and
+ children&rsquo;s games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+ But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me, and at
+ last I started up.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Are you not satisfied?&rdquo; asked my companion. &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I am not
+ satisfied even at the end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then, after a silence, I said, &ldquo;Because you see there are two ends of the
+ world. And this is the wrong end of the world; at least the wrong one for
+ me. This is the French end of the world. I want the other end of the
+ world. Drive me to the other end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The other end of the world?&rdquo; he asked. &ldquo;Where is that?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is in Walham Green,&rdquo; I whispered hoarsely. &ldquo;You see it on the London
+ omnibuses. &lsquo;World&rsquo;s End and Walham Green.&rsquo; Oh, I know how good this is; I
+ love your vineyards and your free peasantry, but I want the English end of
+ the world. I love you like a brother, but I want an English cabman, who
+ will be funny and ask me what his fare &lsquo;is.&rsquo; Your bugles stir my blood,
+ but I want to see a London policeman. Take, oh, take me to see a London
+ policeman.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset, and I could
+ not tell whether he understood or not. I got back into his carriage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You will understand,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;if ever you are an exile even for
+ pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country, as a countryman
+ of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is rather too long a drive to
+ the English end of the world, we may as well drive back to Besançon.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept for Walham
+ Green.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"></a>
+IX. In the Place de La Bastille</h2>
+ <p>
+ On the first of May I was sitting outside a café in the Place de la
+ Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with a capering
+ figure, which stands in the place where the people destroyed a prison and
+ ended an age. The thing is a curious example of how symbolic is the great
+ part of human history. As a matter of mere material fact, the Bastille
+ when it was taken was not a horrible prison; it was hardly a prison at
+ all. But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a sure instinct for
+ symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance, at the last General Election, or
+ for President Kruger&rsquo;s hat in the election before; their poetic sense is
+ perfect. The Chinaman with his pigtail is not an idle flippancy. He does
+ typify with a compact precision exactly the thing the people resent in
+ African policy, the alien and grotesque nature of the power of wealth, the
+ fact that money has no roots, that it is not a natural and familiar power,
+ but a sort of airy and evil magic calling monsters from the ends of the
+ earth. The people hate the mine owner who can bring a Chinaman flying
+ across the sea, exactly as the people hated the wizard who could fetch a
+ flying dragon through the air. It was the same with Mr. Kruger&rsquo;s hat. His
+ hat (that admirable hat) was not merely a joke. It did symbolise, and
+ symbolise extremely well, the exact thing which our people at that moment
+ regarded with impatience and venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican
+ simplicity, the unbeautiful dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier
+ truisms of political morality. No; the people are sometimes wrong on the
+ practical side of politics; they are never wrong on the artistic side.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+ was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform. It was an
+ iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image. The people saw the
+ building like a giant looking at them with a score of eyes, and they
+ struck at it as at a carved fact. For of all the shapes in which that
+ immense illusion called materialism can terrify the soul, perhaps the most
+ oppressive are big buildings. Man feels like a fly, an accident, in the
+ thing he has himself made. It requires a violent effort of the spirit to
+ remember that man made this confounding thing and man could unmake it.
+ Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street taking and
+ destroying a huge public building has a spiritual, a ritual meaning far
+ beyond its immediate political results. It is a religious service. If, for
+ instance, the Socialists were numerous or courageous enough to capture and
+ smash up the Bank of England, you might argue for ever about the inutility
+ of the act, and how it really did not touch the root of the economic
+ problem in the correct manner. But mankind would never forget it. It would
+ change the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Architecture is a very good test of the true strength of a society, for
+ the most valuable things in a human state are the irrevocable things&mdash;marriage,
+ for instance. And architecture approaches nearer than any other art to
+ being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get rid of. You can turn
+ a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a nuisance to turn that
+ Roman cathedral with its face to the wall. You can tear a poem to pieces;
+ it is only in moments of very sincere emotion that you tear a town-hall to
+ pieces. A building is akin to dogma; it is insolent, like a dogma. Whether
+ or no it is permanent, it claims permanence like a dogma. People ask why
+ we have no typical architecture of the modern world, like impressionism in
+ painting. Surely it is obviously because we have not enough dogmas; we
+ cannot bear to see anything in the sky that is solid and enduring,
+ anything in the sky that does not change like the clouds of the sky. But
+ along with this decision which is involved in creating a building, there
+ goes a quite similar decision in the more delightful task of smashing one.
+ The two of necessity go together. In few places have so many fine public
+ buildings been set up as here in Paris, and in few places have so many
+ been destroyed. When people have finally got into the horrible habit of
+ preserving buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them. And
+ in London one mingles, as it were, one&rsquo;s tears because so few are pulled
+ down.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty and
+ Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like so many
+ such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and silent line of
+ horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and prosaic enough, but
+ the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their helmets; and their
+ helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans. I had seen them by
+ twos and threes often enough before. I had seen plenty of them in pictures
+ toiling through the snows of Friedland or roaring round the squares at
+ Waterloo. But now they came file after file, like an invasion, and
+ something in their numbers, or in the evening light that lit up their
+ faces and their crests, or something in the reverie into which they broke,
+ made me inclined to spring to my feet and cry out, &ldquo;The French soldiers!&rdquo;
+ There were the little men with the brown faces that had so often ridden
+ through the capitals of Europe as coolly as they now rode through their
+ own. And when I looked across the square I saw that the two other corners
+ were choked with blue and red; held by little groups of infantry. The city
+ was garrisoned as against a revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker. He said
+ he was not going to &ldquo;Chomer.&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Qu&rsquo;est-ce que c&rsquo;est que le chome?&rdquo;
+ He said, &ldquo;Ils ne veulent pas travailler.&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Ni moi non plus,&rdquo; and
+ he thought I was a class-conscious collectivist proletarian. The whole
+ thing was curious, and the true moral of it one not easy for us, as a
+ nation, to grasp, because our own faults are so deeply and dangerously in
+ the other direction. To me, as an Englishman (personally steeped in the
+ English optimism and the English dislike of severity), the whole thing
+ seemed a fuss about nothing. It looked like turning out one of the best
+ armies in Europe against ordinary people walking about the street. The
+ cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less harmlessly. But, of course,
+ it is hard to say how far in such criticisms one is assuming the French
+ populace to be (what it is not) as docile as the English. But the deeper
+ truth of the matter tingled, so to speak, through the whole noisy night.
+ This people has a natural faculty for feeling itself on the eve of
+ something&mdash;of the Bartholomew or the Revolution or the Commune or the
+ Day of Judgment. It is this sense of crisis that makes France eternally
+ young. It is perpetually pulling down and building up, as it pulled down
+ the prison and put up the column in the Place de La Bastille. France has
+ always been at the point of dissolution. She has found the only method of
+ immortality. She dies daily.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"></a>
+X. On Lying in Bed</h2>
+ <p>
+ Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience if only
+ one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling. This,
+ however, is not generally a part of the domestic apparatus on the
+ premises. I think myself that the thing might be managed with several
+ pails of Aspinall and a broom. Only if one worked in a really sweeping and
+ masterly way, and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip down
+ again on one&rsquo;s face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some strange
+ fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages. I am afraid it would be
+ necessary to stick to black and white in this form of artistic
+ composition. To that purpose, indeed, the white ceiling would be of the
+ greatest possible use; in fact, it is the only use I think of a white
+ ceiling being put to.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+ discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces in a
+ modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+ allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, &ldquo;Il me faut des géants.&rdquo;
+ But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern rooms such
+ as we all live in I was continually disappointed. I found an endless
+ pattern and complication of small objects hung like a curtain of fine
+ links between me and my desire. I examined the walls; I found them to my
+ surprise to be already covered with wallpaper, and I found the wallpaper
+ to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing a ridiculous
+ resemblance to each other. I could not understand why one arbitrary symbol
+ (a symbol apparently entirely devoid of any religious or philosophical
+ significance) should thus be sprinkled all over my nice walls like a sort
+ of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to wallpapers, I think, when it
+ says, &ldquo;Use not vain repetitions, as the Gentiles do.&rdquo; I found the Turkey
+ carpet a mass of unmeaning colours, rather like the Turkish Empire, or
+ like the sweetmeat called Turkish Delight. I do not exactly know what
+ Turkish Delight really is; but I suppose it is Macedonian Massacres.
+ Everywhere that I went forlornly, with my pencil or my paint brush, I
+ found that others had unaccountably been before me, spoiling the walls,
+ the curtains, and the furniture with their childish and barbaric designs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this occasion
+ when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying on my back
+ in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my vision, that
+ breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition of Paradise,
+ since it means purity and also means freedom. But alas! like all heavens,
+ now that it is seen it is found to be unattainable; it looks more austere
+ and more distant than the blue sky outside the window. For my proposal to
+ paint on it with the bristly end of a broom has been discouraged&mdash;never
+ mind by whom; by a person debarred from all political rights&mdash;and
+ even my minor proposal to put the other end of the broom into the kitchen
+ fire and turn it to charcoal has not been conceded. Yet I am certain that
+ it was from persons in my position that all the original inspiration came
+ for covering the ceilings of palaces and cathedrals with a riot of fallen
+ angels or victorious gods. I am sure that it was only because Michael
+ Angelo was engaged in the ancient and honourable occupation of lying in
+ bed that he ever realized how the roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made
+ into an awful imitation of a divine drama that could only be acted in the
+ heavens.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed is
+ hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity that seem to
+ mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing and dangerous than
+ the exultation of very small and secondary matters of conduct at the
+ expense of very great and primary ones, at the expense of eternal ties and
+ tragic human morality. If there is one thing worse than the modern
+ weakening of major morals, it is the modern strengthening of minor morals.
+ Thus it is considered more withering to accuse a man of bad taste than of
+ bad ethics. Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays, for cleanliness
+ is made essential and godliness is regarded as an offence. A playwright
+ can attack the institution of marriage so long as he does not misrepresent
+ the manners of society, and I have met Ibsenite pessimists who thought it
+ wrong to take beer but right to take prussic acid. Especially this is so
+ in matters of hygiene; notably such matters as lying in bed. Instead of
+ being regarded, as it ought to be, as a matter of personal convenience and
+ adjustment, it has come to be regarded by many as if it were a part of
+ essential morals to get up early in the morning. It is upon the whole part
+ of practical wisdom; but there is nothing good about it or bad about its
+ opposite.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up
+ the night before. It is the great peril of our society that all its
+ mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows more fickle. A man&rsquo;s
+ minor actions and arrangements ought to be free, flexible, creative; the
+ things that should be unchangeable are his principles, his ideals. But
+ with us the reverse is true; our views change constantly; but our lunch
+ does not change. Now, I should like men to have strong and rooted
+ conceptions, but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes in the
+ garden, sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the top of a
+ tree. Let them argue from the same first principles, but let them do it in
+ a bed, or a boat, or a balloon. This alarming growth of good habits really
+ means a too great emphasis on those virtues which mere custom can ensure,
+ it means too little emphasis on those virtues which custom can never quite
+ ensure, sudden and splendid virtues of inspired pity or of inspired
+ candour. If ever that abrupt appeal is made to us we may fail. A man can
+ get use to getting up at five o&rsquo;clock in the morning. A man cannot very
+ well get used to being burnt for his opinions; the first experiment is
+ commonly fatal. Let us pay a little more attention to these possibilities
+ of the heroic and unexpected. I dare say that when I get out of this bed I
+ shall do some deed of an almost terrible virtue.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+ caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed (like
+ journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done in bed (as,
+ for example, the professional harpooners of whales), it is obvious that
+ the indulgence must be very occasional. But that is not the caution I
+ mean. The caution is this: if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it without
+ any reason or justification at all. I do not speak, of course, of the
+ seriously sick. But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it without a
+ rag of excuse; then he will get up a healthy man. If he does it for some
+ secondary hygienic reason, if he has some scientific explanation, he may
+ get up a hypochondriac.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"></a>
+XI. The Twelve Men</h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I was,
+ so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people. The
+ snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden and
+ arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea, and my
+ name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were also summoned
+ and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions of men, all of
+ whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began with a C.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping alphabetical
+ way. At one official blow, so to speak, Battersea is denuded of all its
+ C&rsquo;s, and left to get on as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A
+ Cumberpatch is missing from one street&mdash;a Chizzolpop from another&mdash;three
+ Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children are crying out for
+ an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street corner is weeping for her
+ Coffintop, and will not be comforted. We settle down with a rollicking
+ ease into our seats (for we are a bold, devil-may-care race, the C&rsquo;s of
+ Battersea), and an oath is administered to us in a totally inaudible
+ manner by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his second
+ childhood. We understand, however, that we are to well and truly try the
+ case between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the bar,
+ neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner were, perhaps,
+ coming to an amicable understanding in some adjoining public house, the
+ prisoner&rsquo;s head appears above the barrier of the dock; he is accused of
+ stealing bicycles, and he is the living image of a great friend of mine.
+ We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles. We do well and
+ truly try the case between the King and the prisoner in the affair of the
+ bicycles. And we come to the conclusion, after a brief but reasonable
+ discussion, that the King is not in any way implicated. Then we pass on to
+ a woman who neglected her children, and who looks as if somebody or
+ something had neglected her. And I am one of those who fancy that
+ something had.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All the time that the eye took in these light appearances and the brain
+ passed these light criticisms, there was in the heart a barbaric pity and
+ fear which men have never been able to utter from the beginning, but which
+ is the power behind half the poems of the world. The mood cannot even
+ adequately be suggested, except faintly by this statement that tragedy is
+ the highest expression of the infinite value of human life. Never had I
+ stood so close to pain; and never so far away from pessimism. Ordinarily,
+ I should not have spoken of these dark emotions at all, for speech about
+ them is too difficult; but I mention them now for a specific and
+ particular reason to the statement of which I will proceed at once. I
+ speak these feelings because out of the furnace of them there came a
+ curious realisation of a political or social truth. I saw with a queer and
+ indescribable kind of clearness what a jury really is, and why we must
+ never let it go.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+ specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers because
+ they fight better, trained singers because they sing better, trained
+ dancers because they dance better, specially instructed laughers because
+ they laugh better, and so on and so on. The principle has been applied to
+ law and politics by innumerable modern writers. Many Fabians have insisted
+ that a greater part of our political work should be performed by experts.
+ Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should be altogether
+ supplanted by the trained Judge.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable, I do not
+ know that there would be any fault to find with this. But the true result
+ of all experience and the true foundation of all religion is this. That
+ the four or five things that it is most practically essential that a man
+ should know, are all of them what people call paradoxes. That is to say,
+ that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths, yet we
+ cannot easily state them in words without being guilty of seeming verbal
+ contradictions. One of them, for instance, is the unimpeachable platitude
+ that the man who finds most pleasure for himself is often the man who
+ least hunts for it. Another is the paradox of courage; the fact that the
+ way to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it. Whoever is
+ careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful cliff above the tide
+ may save his bones by that carelessness. Whoever will lose his life, the
+ same shall save it; an entirely practical and prosaic statement.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught to every
+ infant prattling at his mother&rsquo;s knee is the following: That the more a
+ man looks at a thing, the less he can see it, and the more a man learns a
+ thing the less he knows it. The Fabian argument of the expert, that the
+ man who is trained should be the man who is trusted would be absolutely
+ unanswerable if it were really true that a man who studied a thing and
+ practiced it every day went on seeing more and more of its significance.
+ But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its significance. In
+ the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we are continually
+ goading ourselves into gratitude and humility, seeing less and less of the
+ significance of the sky or the stones.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of men.
+ But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can to other
+ terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun. And the horrible
+ thing about all legal officials, even the best, about all judges,
+ magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen, is not that they are
+ wicked (some of them are good), not that they are stupid (several of them
+ are quite intelligent), it is simply that they have got used to it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they see is the
+ usual man in the usual place. They do not see the awful court of judgment;
+ they only see their own workshop. Therefore, the instinct of Christian
+ civilisation has most wisely declared that into their judgments there
+ shall upon every occasion be infused fresh blood and fresh thoughts from
+ the streets. Men shall come in who can see the court and the crowd, and
+ coarse faces of the policeman and the professional criminals, the wasted
+ faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the gesticulating counsel, and
+ see it all as one sees a new picture or a play hitherto unvisited.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided, that determining
+ the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too important to be trusted to
+ trained men. It wishes for light upon that awful matter, it asks men who
+ know no more law than I know, but who can feel the things that I felt in
+ the jury box. When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system
+ discovered, or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when
+ it wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve of the
+ ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I remember right,
+ by the Founder of Christianity.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"></a>
+XII. The Wind and the Trees</h2>
+ <p>
+ I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf about
+ the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks and roars in
+ something that is at once exultation and agony. I feel, in fact, as if I
+ were actually sitting at the bottom of the sea among mere anchors and
+ ropes, while over my head and over the green twilight of water sounded the
+ everlasting rush of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of
+ tremendous ships. The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck them
+ root and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet another
+ desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy, the trees are
+ straining and tearing and lashing as if they were a tribe of dragons each
+ tied by the tail.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible and violent
+ witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind. I remember a little boy of
+ my acquaintance who was once walking in Battersea Park under just such
+ torn skies and tossing trees. He did not like the wind at all; it blew in
+ his face too much; it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his hat, of
+ which he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about four. After
+ complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said at last to his
+ mother, &ldquo;Well, why don&rsquo;t you take away the trees, and then it wouldn&rsquo;t
+ wind.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake. Any one
+ looking for the first time at the trees might fancy that they were indeed
+ vast and titanic fans, which by their mere waving agitated the air around
+ them for miles. Nothing, I say, could be more human and excusable than the
+ belief that it is the trees which make the wind. Indeed, the belief is so
+ human and excusable that it is, as a matter of fact, the belief of about
+ ninety-nine out of a hundred of the philosophers, reformers, sociologists,
+ and politicians of the great age in which we live. My small friend was, in
+ fact, very like the principal modern thinkers; only much nicer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour of
+ inventing, the trees stand for all visible things and the wind for the
+ invisible. The wind is the spirit which bloweth where it listeth; the
+ trees are the material things of the world which are blown where the
+ spirit lists. The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees are
+ cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind because the
+ trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad. We only know that there is a
+ real revolution because all the chimney-pots go mad on the whole skyline
+ of the city.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more ragged and rises
+ into fantastic crests or tattered tails, so the human city rises under the
+ wind of the spirit into toppling temples or sudden spires. No man has ever
+ seen a revolution. Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood pouring down
+ the gutters, the guillotine lifted higher than the throne, a prison in
+ ruins, a people in arms&mdash;these things are not revolution, but the
+ results of revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind. So, also,
+ you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that there is a revolution.
+ And there never has been in the history of the world a real revolution,
+ brutally active and decisive, which was not preceded by unrest and new
+ dogma in the reign of invisible things. All revolutions began by being
+ abstract. Most revolutions began by being quite pedantically abstract.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved. So
+ there must always be a battle in the sky before there is a battle on the
+ earth. Since it is lawful to pray for the coming of the kingdom, it is
+ lawful also to pray for the coming of the revolution that shall restore
+ the kingdom. It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the trees.
+ It is lawful to pray &ldquo;Thine anger come on earth as it is in Heaven.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees. The great
+ human heresy is that the trees move the wind. When people begin to say
+ that the material circumstances have alone created the moral
+ circumstances, then they have prevented all possibility of serious change.
+ For if my circumstances have made me wholly stupid, how can I be certain
+ even that I am right in altering those circumstances?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment is simply
+ smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts&mdash;including that one.
+ To treat the human mind as having an ultimate authority is necessary to
+ any kind of thinking, even free thinking. And nothing will ever be
+ reformed in this age or country unless we realise that the moral fact
+ comes first.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard in
+ debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists and
+ total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty; the former
+ say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their either of them
+ being content with such simple physical explanations. Surely it is obvious
+ that the thing which among the English proletariat leads to poverty is the
+ same as the thing which leads to drink; the absence of strong civic
+ dignity, the absence of an instinct that resists degradation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long ago
+ cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+ discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman. The
+ Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has this quality,
+ which may strictly be called &ldquo;hand to mouth,&rdquo; because under its influence
+ a man&rsquo;s hand automatically seeks his own mouth, instead of seeking (as it
+ sometimes should do) his oppressor&rsquo;s nose. And a man who says that the
+ English inequality in land is due only to economic causes, or that the
+ drunkenness of England is due only to economic causes, is saying something
+ so absurd that he cannot really have thought what he was saying.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under the
+ influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the economic
+ theory of history. We have people who represent that all great historic
+ motives were economic, and then have to howl at the top of their voices in
+ order to induce the modern democracy to act on economic motives. The
+ extreme Marxian politicians in England exhibit themselves as a small,
+ heroic minority, trying vainly to induce the world to do what, according
+ to their theory, the world always does. The truth is, of course, that
+ there will be a social revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be
+ purely economic. You can never have a revolution in order to establish a
+ democracy. You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight rain have
+ ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars in a clear sunlight. The
+ tossing of the trees and the blowing of the wind have ceased
+ simultaneously. So I suppose there are still modern philosophers who will
+ maintain that the trees make the wind.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"></a>
+XIII. The Dickensian</h2>
+ <p>
+ He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw hat;
+ with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers, but with a
+ quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes. He was gazing with a rather
+ gloomy interest at the cluster, one might almost say the tangle, of small
+ shipping which grew thicker as our little pleasure boat crawled up into
+ Yarmouth Harbour. A boat entering this harbour, as every one knows, does
+ not enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps round at the
+ back like a traitor taking the town in the rear. The passage of the river
+ seems almost too narrow for traffic, and in consequence the bigger ships
+ look colossal. As we passed under a timber ship from Norway, which seemed
+ to block up the heavens like a cathedral, the man in a straw hat pointed
+ to an odd wooden figurehead carved like a woman, and said, like one
+ continuing a conversation, &ldquo;Now, why have they left off having them. They
+ didn&rsquo;t do any one any harm?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I replied with some flippancy about the captain&rsquo;s wife being jealous; but
+ I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note. There has been
+ something in our most recent civilisation which is mysteriously hostile to
+ such healthy and humane symbols.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty,&rdquo; he continued,
+ exactly echoing my thoughts. &ldquo;I believe they broke up all the jolly old
+ figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Like Mr. Quilp,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;when he battered the wooden Admiral with
+ the poker.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time he stood
+ erect and stared at me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you come to Yarmouth for that?&rdquo; he asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;For what?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;For Dickens,&rdquo; he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I answered; &ldquo;I come for fun, though that is much the same thing.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I always come,&rdquo; he answered quietly, &ldquo;to find Peggotty&rsquo;s boat. It isn&rsquo;t
+ here.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred to the people who
+ live there. I myself have never come to the end of the list of Batterseas.
+ But there are two to the stranger and tourist; the poor part, which is
+ dignified, and the prosperous part, which is savagely vulgar. My new
+ friend haunted the first of these like a ghost; to the latter he would
+ only distantly allude.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The place is very much spoilt now... trippers, you know,&rdquo; he would say,
+ not at all scornfully, but simply sadly. That was the nearest he would go
+ to an admission of the monstrous watering place that lay along the front,
+ outblazing the sun, and more deafening than the sea. But behind&mdash;out
+ of earshot of this uproar&mdash;there are lanes so narrow that they seem
+ like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose. There are squares so
+ brimful of silence that to plunge into one of them is like plunging into a
+ pool. In these places the man and I paced up and down talking about
+ Dickens, or, rather, doing what all true Dickensians do, telling each
+ other verbatim long passages which both of us knew quite well already. We
+ were really in the atmosphere of the older England. Fishermen passed us
+ who might well have been characters like Peggotty; we went into a musty
+ curiosity shop and bought pipe-stoppers carved into figures from Pickwick.
+ The evening was settling down between all the buildings with that slow
+ gold that seems to soak everything when we went into the church.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured windows
+ which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the passionate
+ heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts. At length I
+ said to my companion:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant for the angel
+ at the sepulchre.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I daresay,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;What is there odd about that?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After a pause I said, &ldquo;Do you remember what the angel at the sepulchre
+ said?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not particularly,&rdquo; he answered; &ldquo;but where are you off to in such a
+ hurry?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the fishermen&rsquo;s
+ almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring indignantly where I was
+ going.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;to put pennies in automatic machines on the beach.
+ I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going to have my photograph
+ taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer out of its original bottle. I will
+ buy some picture postcards. I do want a boat. I am ready to listen to a
+ concertina, and but for the defects of my education should be ready to
+ play it. I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is, if the donkey is
+ willing. I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was commanded me by the
+ angel in the stained-glass window.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I really think,&rdquo; said the Dickensian, &ldquo;that I had better put you in
+ charge of your relations.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sir,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;there are certain writers to whom humanity owes much,
+ whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective a type that we
+ do well to link it with certain quaint places or certain perishing
+ associations. It would not be unnatural to look for the spirit of Horace
+ Walpole at Strawberry Hill, or even for the shade of Thackeray in Old
+ Kensington. But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for Dickens
+ is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward; he might
+ look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury, but he would love to
+ look at them. He might lash our democracy, but it would be because, like a
+ democrat, he asked much from it. We will not have all his books bound up
+ under the title of &lsquo;The Old Curiosity Shop.&rsquo; Rather we will have them all
+ bound up under the title of &lsquo;Great Expectations.&rsquo; Wherever humanity is he
+ would have us face it and make something of it, swallow it with a holy
+ cannibalism, and assimilate it with the digestion of a giant. We must take
+ these trippers as he would have taken them, and tear out of them their
+ tragedy and their farce. Do you remember now what the angel said at the
+ sepulchre? &lsquo;Why seek ye the living among the dead? He is not here; he is
+ risen.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands, which
+ were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite desperate
+ democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory, flung far
+ over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic firelight of
+ Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure looked at once
+ grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell. I heard a little
+ girl (who was being throttled by another little girl) say by way of
+ self-vindication, &ldquo;My sister-in-law &rsquo;as got four rings aside her weddin&rsquo;
+ ring!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"></a>
+XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land</h2>
+ <p>
+ Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees and the
+ secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world moving under the
+ violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor merely because I happened
+ to be writing the article in a wood. Nevertheless, now that I return to
+ Fleet Street (which seems to me, I confess, much better and more poetical
+ than all the wild woods in the world), I am strangely haunted by this
+ accidental comparison. The people&rsquo;s figures seem a forest and their soul a
+ wind. All the human personalities which speak or signal to me seem to have
+ this fantastic character of the fringe of the forest against the sky. That
+ man that talks to me, what is he but an articulate tree? That driver of a
+ van who waves his hands wildly at me to tell me to get out of the way,
+ what is he but a bunch of branches stirred and swayed by a spiritual wind,
+ a sylvan object that I can continue to contemplate with calm? That
+ policeman who lifts his hand to warn three omnibuses of the peril that
+ they run in encountering my person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a
+ moment with that blast of human law which is a thing stronger than
+ anarchy? Gradually this impression of the woods wears off. But this
+ black-and-white contrast between the visible and invisible, this deep
+ sense that the one essential belief is belief in the invisible as against
+ the visible, is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind.
+ Exactly at the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is,
+ most bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet, on
+ which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words: &ldquo;Should
+ Shop Assistants Marry?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I saw those words everything might just as well have turned upside
+ down. The men in Fleet Street might have been walking about on their
+ hands. The cross of St. Paul&rsquo;s might have been hanging in the air upside
+ down. For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country; I
+ have come into the country where men do definitely believe that the waving
+ of the trees makes the wind. That is to say, they believe that the
+ material circumstances, however black and twisted, are more important than
+ the spiritual realities, however powerful and pure. &ldquo;Should Shop
+ Assistants Marry?&rdquo; I am puzzled to think what some periods and schools of
+ human history would have made of such a question. The ascetics of the East
+ or of some periods of the early Church would have thought that the
+ question meant, &ldquo;Are not shop assistants too saintly, too much of another
+ world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?&rdquo; But I suppose that is not
+ what the purple poster means. In some pagan cities it might have meant,
+ &ldquo;Shall slaves so vile as shop assistants even be allowed to propagate
+ their abject race?&rdquo; But I suppose that is not what the purple poster
+ meant. We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what it does mean. It
+ does really mean that a section of the human race is asking whether the
+ primary relations of the two human sexes are particularly good for modern
+ shops. The human race is asking whether Adam and Eve are entirely suitable
+ for Marshall and Snelgrove. If this is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine
+ what would be. We ask whether the universal institution will improve our
+ (please God) temporary institution. Yet I have known many such questions.
+ For instance, I have known a man ask seriously, &ldquo;Does Democracy help the
+ Empire?&rdquo; Which is like saying, &ldquo;Is art favourable to frescoes?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I say that there are many such questions asked. But if the world ever runs
+ short of them, I can suggest a large number of questions of precisely the
+ same kind, based on precisely the same principle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do Feet Improve Boots?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Is Bread Better when Eaten?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Should
+ Hats have Heads in them?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do People Spoil a Town?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do Walls
+ Ruin Wall-papers?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Should Neckties enclose Necks?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do Hands
+ Hurt Walking-sticks?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Does Burning Destroy Firewood?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Is
+ Cleanliness Good for Soap?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Can Cricket Really Improve
+ Cricket-bats?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Shall We Take Brides with our Wedding Rings?&rdquo; and a
+ hundred others.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport or in
+ intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from the purple
+ poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by half of the earnest
+ economists of our times. All the questions they ask are of this character;
+ they are all tinged with this same initial absurdity. They do not ask if
+ the means is suited to the end; they all ask (with profound and
+ penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited to the means. They do not ask
+ whether the tail suits the dog. They all ask whether a dog is (by the
+ highest artistic canons) the most ornamental appendage that can be put at
+ the end of a tail. In short, instead of asking whether our modern
+ arrangements, our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete
+ institutions are suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy
+ human life, they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+ at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments; and then they
+ only ask whether that healthy human life is suited to our streets and
+ trades. Perfection may be attainable or unattainable as an end. It may or
+ may not be possible to talk of imperfection as a means to perfection. But
+ surely it passes toleration to talk of perfection as a means to
+ imperfection. The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream. But
+ surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem is a reality on
+ the road to Birmingham.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret of the
+ modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought to be simple
+ enough. A really human human being would always put the spiritual things
+ first. A walking and speaking statue of God finds himself at one
+ particular moment employed as a shop assistant. He has in himself a power
+ of terrible love, a promise of paternity, a thirst for some loyalty that
+ shall unify life, and in the ordinary course of things he asks himself,
+ &ldquo;How far do the existing conditions of those assisting in shops fit in
+ with my evident and epic destiny in the matter of love and marriage?&rdquo; But
+ here, as I have said, comes in the quiet and crushing power of modern
+ materialism. It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he would otherwise
+ do. By perpetually talking about environment and visible things, by
+ perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity, painting and
+ keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron machinery and merciless
+ engines, of rails of steel, and of towers of stone, modern materialism at
+ last produces this tremendous impression in which the truth is stated
+ upside down. At last the result is achieved. The man does not say as he
+ ought to have said, &ldquo;Should married men endure being modern shop
+ assistants?&rdquo; The man says, &ldquo;Should shop assistants marry?&rdquo; Triumph has
+ completed the immense illusion of materialism. The slave does not say,
+ &ldquo;Are these chains worthy of me?&rdquo; The slave says scientifically and
+ contentedly, &ldquo;Am I even worthy of these chains?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"></a>
+XV. What I Found in My Pocket</h2>
+ <p>
+ Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have made the Empire
+ what it is&mdash;a man in an astracan coat, with an astracan moustache&mdash;a
+ tight, black, curly moustache. Whether he put on the moustache with the
+ coat or whether his Napoleonic will enabled him not only to grow a
+ moustache in the usual place, but also to grow little moustaches all over
+ his clothes, I do not know. I only remember that he said to me the
+ following words: &ldquo;A man can&rsquo;t get on nowadays by hanging about with his
+ hands in his pockets.&rdquo; I made reply with the quite obvious flippancy that
+ perhaps a man got on by having his hands in other people&rsquo;s pockets;
+ whereupon he began to argue about Moral Evolution, so I suppose what I
+ said had some truth in it. But the incident now comes back to me, and
+ connects itself with another incident&mdash;if you can call it an incident&mdash;which
+ happened to me only the other day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+ some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+ reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I had at
+ least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief; I had a
+ complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should find
+ there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a tidy
+ person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+ possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+ them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything slips
+ into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell. I suppose
+ that the things that I have dropped into my pockets are still there; the
+ same presumption applies to the things that I have dropped into the sea.
+ But I regard the riches stored in both these bottomless chasms with the
+ same reverent ignorance. They tell us that on the last day the sea will
+ give up its dead; and I suppose that on the same occasion long strings of
+ extraordinary things will come running out of my pockets. But I have quite
+ forgotten what any of them are; and there is really nothing (excepting the
+ money) that I shall be at all surprised at finding among them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence. I here only wish
+ briefly to recall the special, extraordinary, and hitherto unprecedented
+ circumstances which led me in cold blood, and being of sound mind, to turn
+ out my pockets. I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a rather
+ long journey. The time was towards evening, but it might have been
+ anything, for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade was
+ painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting sheet of quite
+ colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers. I had not even a pencil and
+ a scrap of paper with which to write a religious epic. There were no
+ advertisements on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could have
+ plunged into the study, for any collection of printed words is quite
+ enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity. When I find
+ myself opposite the words &ldquo;Sunlight Soap&rdquo; I can exhaust all the aspects of
+ Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer poetry before I go on to the less
+ congenial subject of soap. But there was no printed word or picture
+ anywhere; there was nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank
+ wet without. Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can be,
+ uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats, and began
+ thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood. Just as I had begun to
+ realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ was a carpenter, rather than a
+ bricklayer, or a baker, or anything else, I suddenly started upright, and
+ remembered my pockets. I was carrying about with me an unknown treasury. I
+ had a British Museum and a South Kensington collection of unknown curios
+ hung all over me in different places. I began to take the things out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of Battersea tram
+ tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase. They shook down in
+ showers like confetti. Primarily, of course, they touched my patriotic
+ emotions, and brought tears to my eyes; also they provided me with the
+ printed matter I required, for I found on the back of them some short but
+ striking little scientific essays about some kind of pill. Comparatively
+ speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might be regarded as a
+ small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my railway journey
+ continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a few months longer, I
+ could imagine myself throwing myself into the controversial aspects of the
+ pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro and con upon the data furnished
+ to me. But after all it was the symbolic quality of the tickets that moved
+ me most. For as certainly as the cross of St. George means English
+ patriotism, those scraps of paper meant all that municipal patriotism
+ which is now, perhaps, the greatest hope of England.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife, I need
+ hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral meditations all to
+ itself. A knife typifies one of the most primary of those practical
+ origins upon which as upon low, thick pillows all our human civilisation
+ reposes. Metals, the mystery of the thing called iron and of the thing
+ called steel, led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream. I saw into the
+ intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among all the common
+ stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent battle, in which
+ stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered against something
+ shining and new in the hand of one desperate man. I heard all the hammers
+ on all the anvils of the earth. I saw all the swords of Feudal and all the
+ weals of Industrial war. For the knife is only a short sword; and the
+ pocket-knife is a secret sword. I opened it and looked at that brilliant
+ and terrible tongue which we call a blade; and I thought that perhaps it
+ was the symbol of the oldest of the needs of man. The next moment I knew
+ that I was wrong; for the thing that came next out of my pocket was a box
+ of matches. Then I saw fire, which is stronger even than steel, the old,
+ fierce female thing, the thing we all love, but dare not touch.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw in it all the art
+ and all the frescoes of the world. The next was a coin of a very modest
+ value; and I saw in it not only the image and superscription of our own
+ Caesar, but all government and order since the world began. But I have not
+ space to say what were the items in the long and splendid procession of
+ poetical symbols that came pouring out. I cannot tell you all the things
+ that were in my pocket. I can tell you one thing, however, that I could
+ not find in my pocket. I allude to my railway ticket.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"></a>
+XVI. The Dragon&rsquo;s Grandmother</h2>
+ <p>
+ I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales. I do not
+ mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated in them&mdash;that
+ he did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into a coach. He did, indeed,
+ entertain this curious disbelief. And, like all the other people I have
+ ever met who entertained it, he was wholly unable to give me an
+ intelligent reason for it. He tried the laws of nature, but he soon
+ dropped that. Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary
+ experience, and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted
+ pumpkinity. But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+ adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply the attitude we
+ adopt towards all unusual occurrences. If we were certain of miracles we
+ should not count on them. Things that happen very seldom we all leave out
+ of our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not. I do not expect a
+ glass of water to be turned into wine; but neither do I expect a glass of
+ water to be poisoned with prussic acid. I do not in ordinary business
+ relations act on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but neither do
+ I act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost heir of the
+ Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is not that the natural order
+ is unalterable, but simply that it is much safer to bet on uncommon
+ incidents than on common ones. This does not touch the credibility of any
+ attested tale about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned into a coach. If I
+ had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car with my own eyes that
+ would not make me any more inclined to assume that the same thing would
+ happen again. I should not invest largely in pumpkins with an eye to the
+ motor trade. Cinderella got a ball dress from the fairy; but I do not
+ suppose that she looked after her own clothes any the less after it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened, though crazy,
+ is common. The man I speak of disbelieved in fairy tales in an even more
+ amazing and perverted sense. He actually thought that fairy tales ought
+ not to be told to children. That is (like a belief in slavery or
+ annexation) one of those intellectual errors which lie very near to
+ ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which, though they may be
+ done what is called conscientiously, yet carry so much of their whole
+ horror in the very act of them, that a man must in doing them not only
+ harden but slightly corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of milk
+ to young mothers when their husbands were in the field against us. Another
+ is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society of which
+ I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured, short-sighted young
+ man, like a stray curate who was too helpless even to find his way to the
+ Church of England. He had a curious green necktie and a very long neck; I
+ am always meeting idealists with very long necks. Perhaps it is that their
+ eternal aspiration slowly lifts their heads nearer and nearer to the
+ stars. Or perhaps it has something to do with the fact that so many of
+ them are vegetarians: perhaps they are slowly evolving the neck of the
+ giraffe so that they can eat all the tops of the trees in Kensington
+ Gardens. These things are in every sense above me. Such, anyhow, was the
+ young man who did not believe in fairy tales; and by a curious coincidence
+ he entered the room when I had just finished looking through a pile of
+ contemporary fiction, and had begun to read &ldquo;Grimm&rsquo;s Fairy tales&rdquo; as a
+ natural consequence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+ imagine their titles for yourself. There was &ldquo;Suburban Sue: A Tale of
+ Psychology,&rdquo; and also &ldquo;Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia&rdquo;; there was
+ &ldquo;Trixy: A Temperament,&rdquo; and &ldquo;Man-Hate: A Monochrome,&rdquo; and all those nice
+ things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough, I grew
+ tired of them at last, and when I saw &ldquo;Grimm&rsquo;s Fairy Tales&rdquo; lying
+ accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy. Here at least,
+ here at last, one could find a little common sense. I opened the book, and
+ my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying words, &ldquo;The Dragon&rsquo;s
+ Grandmother.&rdquo; That at least was reasonable; that at least was true. &ldquo;The
+ Dragon&rsquo;s Grandmother!&rdquo; While I was rolling this first touch of ordinary
+ human reality upon my tongue, I looked up suddenly and saw this monster
+ with a green tie standing in the doorway.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I listened to what he said about the society politely enough, I hope; but
+ when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe in fairy tales, I
+ broke out beyond control. &ldquo;Man,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;who are you that you should not
+ believe in fairy tales? It is much easier to believe in Blue Beard than to
+ believe in you. A blue beard is a misfortune; but there are green ties
+ which are sins. It is far easier to believe in a million fairy tales than
+ to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales. I would rather kiss
+ Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all his stories as if they were
+ thirty-nine articles than say seriously and out of my heart that there can
+ be such a man as you; that you are not some temptation of the devil or
+ some delusion from the void. Look at these plain, homely, practical words.
+ &lsquo;The Dragon&rsquo;s Grandmother,&rsquo; that is all right; that is rational almost to
+ the verge of rationalism. If there was a dragon, he had a grandmother. But
+ you&mdash;you had no grandmother! If you had known one, she would have
+ taught you to love fairy tales. You had no father, you had no mother; no
+ natural causes can explain you. You cannot be. I believe many things which
+ I have not seen; but of such things as you it may be said, &lsquo;Blessed is he
+ that has seen and yet has disbelieved.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy, so I
+ moderated my tone. &ldquo;Can you not see,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;that fairy tales in their
+ essence are quite solid and straightforward; but that this everlasting
+ fiction about modern life is in its nature essentially incredible?
+ Folk-lore means that the soul is sane, but that the universe is wild and
+ full of marvels. Realism means that the world is dull and full of routine,
+ but that the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the fairy tale is&mdash;what
+ will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The problem of the modern
+ novel is&mdash;what will a madman do with a dull world? In the fairy tales
+ the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad. In the modern novels
+ the hero is mad before the book begins, and suffers from the harsh
+ steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos. In the excellent tale of &lsquo;The
+ Dragon&rsquo;s Grandmother,&rsquo; in all the other tales of Grimm, it is assumed that
+ the young man setting out on his travels will have all substantial truths
+ in him; that he will be brave, full of faith, reasonable, that he will
+ respect his parents, keep his word, rescue one kind of people, defy
+ another kind, &lsquo;parcere subjectis et debellare,&rsquo; etc. Then, having assumed
+ this centre of sanity, the writer entertains himself by fancying what
+ would happen if the whole world went mad all round it, if the sun turned
+ green and the moon blue, if horses had six legs and giants had two heads.
+ But your modern literature takes insanity as its centre. Therefore, it
+ loses the interest even of insanity. A lunatic is not startling to
+ himself, because he is quite serious; that is what makes him a lunatic. A
+ man who thinks he is a piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of
+ glass. A man who thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a
+ chicken. It is only sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity.
+ Therefore, these wise old tales made the hero ordinary and the tale
+ extraordinary. But you have made the hero extraordinary and the tale
+ ordinary&mdash;so ordinary&mdash;oh, so very ordinary.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me under the
+ hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, &ldquo;In the name of God and
+ Democracy and the Dragon&rsquo;s grandmother&mdash;in the name of all good
+ things&mdash;I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more.&rdquo; Whether
+ or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt that he
+ definitely went away.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"></a>
+XVII. The Red Angel</h2>
+ <p>
+ I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad for
+ children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him I can never
+ count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest letter saying that
+ fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even if they are true. She
+ says that it is cruel to tell children fairy tales, because it frightens
+ them. You might just as well say that it is cruel to give girls
+ sentimental novels because it makes them cry. All this kind of talk is
+ based on that complete forgetting of what a child is like which has been
+ the firm foundation of so many educational schemes. If you keep bogies and
+ goblins away from children they would make them up for themselves. One
+ small child in the dark can invent more hells than Swedenborg. One small
+ child can imagine monsters too big and black to get into any picture, and
+ give them names too unearthly and cacophonous to have occurred in the
+ cries of any lunatic. The child, to begin with, commonly likes horrors,
+ and he continues to indulge in them even when he does not like them. There
+ is just as much difficulty in saying exactly where pure pain begins in his
+ case, as there is in ours when we walk of our own free will into the
+ torture-chamber of a great tragedy. The fear does not come from fairy
+ tales; the fear comes from the universe of the soul.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable; they are
+ alarmed at this world, because this world is a very alarming place. They
+ dislike being alone because it is verily and indeed an awful idea to be
+ alone. Barbarians fear the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics
+ worship it&mdash;because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not
+ responsible for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear;
+ fairy tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly; that
+ is in the child already, because it is in the world already. Fairy tales
+ do not give the child his first idea of bogey. What fairy tales give the
+ child is his first clear idea of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby
+ has known the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination. What the
+ fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to kill the dragon.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him for a series of
+ clear pictures to the idea that these limitless terrors had a limit, that
+ these shapeless enemies have enemies in the knights of God, that there is
+ something in the universe more mystical than darkness, and stronger than
+ strong fear. When I was a child I have stared at the darkness until the
+ whole black bulk of it turned into one negro giant taller than heaven. If
+ there was one star in the sky it only made him a Cyclops. But fairy tales
+ restored my mental health, for next day I read an authentic account of how
+ a negro giant with one eye, of quite equal dimensions, had been baffled by
+ a little boy like myself (of similar inexperience and even lower social
+ status) by means of a sword, some bad riddles, and a brave heart.
+ Sometimes the sea at night seemed as dreadful as any dragon. But then I
+ was acquainted with many youngest sons and little sailors to whom a dragon
+ or two was as simple as the sea.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the most horrible of Grimm&rsquo;s tales in incident and imagery, the
+ excellent tale of the &ldquo;Boy who Could not Shudder,&rdquo; and you will see what I
+ mean. There are some living shocks in that tale. I remember specially a
+ man&rsquo;s legs which fell down the chimney by themselves and walked about the
+ room, until they were rejoined by the severed head and body which fell
+ down the chimney after them. That is very good. But the point of the story
+ and the point of the reader&rsquo;s feelings is not that these things are
+ frightening, but the far more striking fact that the hero was not
+ frightened at them. The most fearful of all these fearful wonders was his
+ own absence of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked the
+ devils to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled with
+ some modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his spirit.
+ If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it; it is the
+ wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught to shudder by
+ taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him. In that one
+ sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage than in all the
+ books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At the four corners of a child&rsquo;s bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd and
+ St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making him
+ rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone. For the
+ devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in the
+ universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted; but
+ the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied. As I told &ldquo;H. N.
+ B.&rdquo; (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its most superstitious
+ sense), the one thing modern people really do believe in is damnation. The
+ greatest of purely modern poets summed up the really modern attitude in
+ that fine Agnostic line&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There may be Heaven; there must be Hell.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition; and the
+ new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin by being
+ gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits. Now they are
+ beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+ because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or waltzed
+ with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least. I wish the
+ spirits were more farcical than they are. That they should make more jokes
+ and better ones, would be my suggestion. For almost all the spiritualism
+ of our time, in so far as it is new, is solemn and sad. Some Pagan gods
+ were lawless, and some Christian saints were a little too serious; but the
+ spirits of modern spiritualism are both lawless and serious&mdash;a
+ disgusting combination. The specially contemporary spirits are not only
+ devils, they are blue devils. This is, first and last, the real value of
+ Christmas; in so far as the mythology remains at all it is a kind of happy
+ mythology. Personally, of course, I believe in Santa Claus; but it is the
+ season of forgiveness, and I will forgive others for not doing so. But if
+ there is anyone who does not comprehend the defect in our world which I am
+ civilising, I should recommend him, for instance, to read a story by Mr.
+ Henry James, called &ldquo;The Turn of the Screw.&rdquo; It is one of the most
+ powerful things ever written, and it is one of the things about which I
+ doubt most whether it ought ever to have been written at all. It describes
+ two innocent children gradually growing at once omniscient and half-witted
+ under the influence of the foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I
+ say, I doubt whether Mr. Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is
+ not indecent, do not buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the
+ question so doubtful that I will give that truly great man a chance. I
+ will approve the thing as well as admire it if he will write another tale
+ just as powerful about two children and Santa Claus. If he will not, or
+ cannot, then the conclusion is clear; we can deal strongly with gloomy
+ mystery, but not with happy mystery; we are not rationalists, but
+ diabolists.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that stands
+ up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have never heard
+ of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil. That is exactly what I
+ mean.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"></a>
+XVIII. The Tower</h2>
+ <p>
+ I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great Belfry
+ Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought (though not,
+ perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies of
+ architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve the one
+ startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts. But this sort of
+ sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy and energy of these
+ Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most prosaic landscapes, but
+ the most violent and extravagant of buildings. Here Nature is tame; it is
+ civilisation that is untamable. Here the fields are as flat as a paved
+ square; but, on the other hand, the streets and roofs are as uproarious as
+ a forest in a great wind. The waters of wood and meadow slide as smoothly
+ and meekly as if they were in the London water-pipes. But the parish pump
+ is carved with all the creatures out of the wilderness. Part of this is
+ true, of course, of all art. We talk of wild animals, but the wildest
+ animal is man. There are sounds in music that are more ancient and awful
+ than the cry of the strangest beast at night. And so also there are
+ buildings that are shapeless in their strength, seeming to lift themselves
+ slowly like monsters from the primal mire, and there are spires that seem
+ to fly up suddenly like a startled bird.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit in
+ humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only man who
+ has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man is ever
+ undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who are wild. And
+ doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to all human art, it is
+ also generally characteristic of Christian art among the arts of the
+ world. This is what people really mean when they say that Christianity is
+ barbaric, and arose in ignorance. As a matter of historic fact, it didn&rsquo;t;
+ it arose in the most equably civilised period the world has ever seen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But it is true that there is something in it that breaks the outline of
+ perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots with anger the blind
+ eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry charge the horses of the Elgin
+ Marbles. Christianity is savage, in the sense that it is primeval; there
+ is in it a touch of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate in which I had
+ praised militant music in ritual, and some one asked me if I could imagine
+ Christ walking down the street before a brass band. I said I could imagine
+ it with the greatest ease; for Christ definitely approved a natural
+ noisiness at a great moment. When the street children shouted too loud,
+ certain priggish disciples did begin to rebuke them in the name of good
+ taste. He said: &ldquo;If these were silent the very stones would cry out.&rdquo; With
+ these words He called up all the wealth of artistic creation that has been
+ founded on this creed. With those words He founded Gothic architecture.
+ For in a town like this, which seems to have grown Gothic as a wood grows
+ leaves, anywhere and anyhow, any odd brick or moulding may be carved off
+ into a shouting face. The front of vast buildings is thronged with open
+ mouths, angels praising God, or devils defying Him. Rock itself is racked
+ and twisted, until it seems to scream. The miracle is accomplished; the
+ very stones cry out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+ creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable in
+ the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant things
+ in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All Christian
+ temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges Belfry is a
+ gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like a giraffe. The
+ same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind at every corner of a
+ Flemish town. And if any one asks, &ldquo;Why did the people of these flat
+ countries instinctively raise these riotous and towering monuments?&rdquo; the
+ only answer one can give is, &ldquo;Because they were the people of these flat
+ countries.&rdquo; If any one asks, &ldquo;Why the men of Bruges sacrificed
+ architecture and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?&rdquo; we
+ can only answer, &ldquo;Because Nature gave them no encouragement to do so.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some of my
+ friends in London who are quite sure of how children will turn out if you
+ give them what they call &ldquo;the right environment.&rdquo; It is a troublesome
+ thing, environment, for it sometimes works positively and sometimes
+ negatively, and more often between the two. A beautiful environment may
+ make a child love beauty; it may make him bored with beauty; most likely
+ the two effects will mix and neutralise each other. Most likely, that is,
+ the environment will make hardly any difference at all. In the scientific
+ style of history (which was recently fashionable, and is still
+ conventional) we always had a list of countries that had owed their
+ characteristics to their physical conditions.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country is hot;
+ Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold; Englishmen naval
+ because they are islanders; Switzers free because they are mountaineers.
+ It is all very nice in its way. Only unfortunately I am quite certain that
+ I could make up quite as long a list exactly contrary in its argument
+ point-blank against the influence of their geographical environment. Thus
+ Spaniards have discovered more continents than Scandinavians because their
+ hot climate discouraged them from exertion. Thus Dutchmen have fought for
+ their freedom quite as bravely as Switzers because the Dutch have no
+ mountains. Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many Mediterranean peoples have
+ specially hated the sea because they had the nicest sea to deal with, the
+ easiest sea to manage. I could extend the list for ever. But however long
+ it was, two examples would certainly stand up in it as pre-eminent and
+ unquestionable. The first is that the Swiss, who live under staggering
+ precipices and spires of eternal snow, have produced no art or literature
+ at all, and are by far the most mundane, sensible, and business-like
+ people in Europe. The other is that the people of Belgium, who live in a
+ country like a carpet, have, by an inner energy, desired to exalt their
+ towers till they struck the stars.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially with
+ his environment or specially against his environment, I cannot comfort
+ myself with the thought that the modern discussions about environment are
+ of much practical value. But I think I will not write any more about these
+ modern theories, but go on looking at the Belfry of Bruges. I would give
+ them the greater attention if I were not pretty well convinced that the
+ theories will have disappeared a long time before the Belfry.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"></a>
+XIX. How I Met the President</h2>
+ <p>
+ Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa and
+ a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular and
+ convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making a bright
+ suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not, I regret to
+ say, received with the seriousness it deserved. I suggested that a band of
+ devoted and noble youths, including ourselves, should express our sense of
+ the pathos of the President&rsquo;s and the Republic&rsquo;s fate by growing Kruger
+ beards under our chins. I imagined how abruptly this decoration would
+ alter the appearance of Mr. John Morley; how startling it would be as it
+ emerged from under the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But the younger men, my
+ own friends, on whom I more particularly urged it, men whose names are in
+ many cases familiar to the readers of this paper&mdash;Mr. Masterman&rsquo;s for
+ instance, and Mr. Conrad Noel&mdash;they, I felt, being young and
+ beautiful, would do even more justice to the Kruger beard, and when
+ walking down the street with it could not fail to attract attention. The
+ beard would have been a kind of counterblast to the Rhodes hat. An
+ appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in Africa is only an
+ external thing, placed upon the top like a hat; the Dutch power and
+ tradition is a thing rooted and growing like a beard; we have shaved it,
+ and it is growing again. The Kruger beard would represent time and the
+ natural processes. You cannot grow a beard in a moment of passion.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town. I went
+ down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards an
+ election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for the Liberal
+ candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in. I sometimes lie
+ awake at night and meditate upon that mystery; but it must not detain us
+ now. The rather singular incident which happened to me then, and which
+ some recent events have recalled to me, happened while the canvassing was
+ still going on. It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine, settling
+ everywhere on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out into a kind
+ of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which, as far as I
+ know, only exists in England; that sense as if the bushes and the roads
+ were human, and had kindness like men; as if the tree were a good giant
+ with one wooden leg; as if the very line of palings were a row of
+ good-tempered gnomes. On one side of the white, sprawling road a low hill
+ or down showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the other the land
+ tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip hills. The road
+ was very erratic, for every true English road exists in order to lead one
+ a dance; and what could be more beautiful and beneficent than a dance? At
+ an abrupt turn of it I came upon a low white building, with dark doors and
+ dark shuttered windows, evidently not inhabited and scarcely in the
+ ordinary sense inhabitable&mdash;a thing more like a toolhouse than a
+ house of any other kind. Made idle by the heat, I paused, and, taking a
+ piece of red chalk out of my pocket, began drawing aimlessly on the back
+ door&mdash;drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain, and finally the ideal
+ Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials did not permit of any
+ delicate rendering of his noble and national expansion of countenance
+ (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for man, and yet of an element of
+ humour); but the hat was finely handled. Just as I was adding the
+ finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy, I was frozen to the spot with
+ terror. The black door, which I thought no more of than the lid of an
+ empty box, began slowly to open, impelled from within by a human hand. And
+ President Kruger himself came out into the sunlight!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did not
+ wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures, slung
+ across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled the Empire
+ with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes, there was the
+ heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger beard which I had
+ sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under the features of Mr.
+ Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I was too much emotionally
+ shaken to observe; he had not the stone lions with him, or Mrs. Kruger;
+ and what he was doing in that dark shed I cannot imagine, but I suppose he
+ was oppressing an Outlander.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger in Somersetshire
+ during the war. I had no idea that he was in the neighbourhood. But a yet
+ more arresting surprise awaited me. Mr. Kruger regarded me for some
+ moments with a dubious grey eye, and then addressed me with a strong
+ Somersetshire accent. A curious cold shock went through me to hear that
+ inappropriate voice coming out of that familiar form. It was as if you met
+ a Chinaman, with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he began to talk broad
+ Scotch. But the next moment, of course, I understood the situation. We had
+ much underrated the Boers in supposing that the Boer education was
+ incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot against our island home, the
+ terrible President had learnt not only English, but all the dialects at a
+ moment&rsquo;s notice to win over a Lancashire merchant or seduce a
+ Northumberland Fusilier. No doubt, if I asked him, this stout old
+ gentleman could grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk, and so on, like
+ the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if our plain, true-hearted
+ German millionaires fell before a cunning so penetrated with culture as
+ this.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all that this strange
+ old man gave me. When he asked me, dryly enough, but not without a certain
+ steady civility that belongs to old-fashioned country people, what I
+ wanted and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case, explaining
+ my political mission and the almost angelic qualities of the Liberal
+ candidate. Whereupon, this old man became suddenly transfigured in the
+ sunlight into a devil of wrath. It was some time before I could understand
+ a word he said, but the one word that kept on recurring was the word
+ &ldquo;Kruger,&rdquo; and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of violent
+ terms. Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want him to help
+ old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was... and here he became once more
+ obscure. The one thing that he made quite clear was that he wouldn&rsquo;t do
+ anything for Kruger.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But you ARE Kruger,&rdquo; burst from my lips, in a natural explosion of
+ reasonableness. &ldquo;You ARE Kruger, aren&rsquo;t you?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first there would
+ be a fight, and I remembered with regret that the President in early life
+ had had a hobby of killing lions. But really I began to think that I had
+ been mistaken, and that it was not the President after all. There was a
+ confounding sincerity in the anger with which he declared that he was
+ Farmer Bowles, and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually and
+ parted from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me with a few
+ tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of his identity. In the
+ coffee-room to which I returned there was an illustrated paper with a
+ picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer Bowles were as like as two
+ peas. There was a picture also of a group of Outlander leaders, and the
+ faces of them, leering and triumphant, were perhaps unduly darkened by the
+ photograph, but they seemed to me like the faces of a distant and hostile
+ people.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll, when he
+ drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze with the blue Tory
+ ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his colours everywhere. It was
+ evening, and the warm western light was on the grey hair and heavy massive
+ features of that good old man. I knew as one knows a fact of sense that if
+ Spanish and German stockbrokers had flooded his farm or country he would
+ have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an Irishman, but with the
+ ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the Boer. I knew that without
+ seeing it, as certainly as I knew without seeing it that when he went into
+ the polling room he put his cross against the Conservative name. Then he
+ came out again, having given his vote and looking more like Kruger than
+ ever. And at the same hour on the same night thousands upon thousands of
+ English Krugers gave the same vote. And thus Kruger was pulled down and
+ the dark-faced men in the photograph reigned in his stead.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"></a>
+XX. The Giant</h2>
+ <p>
+ I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night. At
+ least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is great. All
+ architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps architecture is
+ really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks. At least, I think many
+ people of those nobler trades that work by night (journalists, policemen,
+ burglars, coffee-stall keepers, and such mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to
+ go home till morning) must often have stood admiring some black bulk of
+ building with a crown of battlements or a crest of spires and then burst
+ into tears at daybreak to discover that it was only a haberdasher&rsquo;s shop
+ with huge gold letters across the face of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be wandering
+ in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight. I sat down on a bench
+ with my back to the river, happening to choose such a place that a huge
+ angle and façade of building jutting out from the Strand sat above me like
+ an incubus. I dare say that if I took the same seat to-morrow by daylight
+ I should find the impression entirely false. In sunlight the thing might
+ seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness it seemed as if the walls
+ were almost falling upon me. Never before have I had so strongly the sense
+ which makes people pessimists in politics, the sense of the hopeless
+ height of the high places of the earth. That pile of wealth and power,
+ whatever was its name, went up above and beyond me like a cliff that no
+ living thing could climb. I had an irrational sense that this thing had to
+ be fought, that I had to fight it; and that I could offer nothing to the
+ occasion but an indolent journalist with a walking-stick.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black, blind
+ face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge face of a sleeping
+ giant; the eyes were too close together, and gave it the suggestion of a
+ bestial sneer. And either by accident of this light or of some other, I
+ could now read the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+ it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything that I
+ should like to pull down with my hands if I could. Reared by a detected
+ robber, it is framed to be the fashionable and luxurious home of
+ undetected robbers. In the house of man are many mansions; but there is a
+ class of men who feel normal nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or in
+ Dartmoor Gaol. That big black face, which was staring at me with its
+ flaming eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic and
+ fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer; the hour had come, but
+ not the man. I sat down on the seat again (I had had one wild impulse to
+ climb up the front of the hotel and fall in at one of the windows), and I
+ tried to think, as all decent people are thinking, what one can really do.
+ And all the time that oppressive wall went up in front of me, and took
+ hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been the defeated who
+ have won. The people who were left worst at the end of the war were
+ generally the people who were left best at the end of the whole business.
+ For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the Christians. But they
+ did not end in the decline of the Christians; they ended in the decline of
+ the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave of Moslem power which had hung in
+ the very heavens above the towns of Christendom, that wave was broken, and
+ never came on again. The Crusaders had saved Paris in the act of losing
+ Jerusalem. The same applies to that epic of Republican war in the
+ eighteenth century to which we Liberals owe our political creed. The
+ French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came back across a carpet of
+ dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had lost its last battle; but it had
+ gained its first object. It had cut a chasm. The world has never been the
+ same since. No one after that has ever been able to treat the poor merely
+ as a pavement.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere stones of the
+ street; but as stones that may sometimes fly. If it please God, you and I
+ may see some of the stones flying again before we see death. But here I
+ only remark the interesting fact that the conquered almost always conquer.
+ Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again. Sparta
+ went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds. The Boers lost
+ the South African War and gained South Africa.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+ stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment; it
+ deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock and jar the
+ unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil; just as a pebble on a
+ railway can stagger the Scotch express. It is enough for the great martyrs
+ and criminals of the French revolution, that they have surprised for all
+ time the secret weakness of the strong. They have awakened and set leaping
+ and quivering in his crypt for ever the coward in the hearts of kings.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his experience was
+ not such as has been generally supposed. If you care to hear it I will
+ tell you the real story of Jack the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the most
+ awful thing which Jack first felt about the giant was that he was not a
+ giant. He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and against
+ its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a figure in a
+ picture&mdash;he seemed merely a man walking across the grass. Then Jack
+ was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man was treading down
+ was one of the tallest forests upon that plain. The man came nearer and
+ nearer, growing bigger and bigger, and at the instant when he passed the
+ possible stature of humanity Jack almost screamed. The rest was an
+ intolerable apocalypse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle; the more he became
+ incredible the more he became solid. The less one could believe in him the
+ more plainly one could see him. It was unbearable that so much of the sky
+ should be occupied by one human face. His eyes, which had stood out like
+ bow windows, became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that could
+ contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes. Jack&rsquo;s intellect
+ was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism of the face that filled the
+ sky; his last hope was submerged, his five wits all still with terror.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of dead
+ honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his hand. He
+ rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and when he came
+ quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a cave. Then he
+ planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant on it with all
+ his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the hilt, and then
+ snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant felt a sort of
+ prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great hand for an
+ instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and stared at the
+ ground until he had seen his enemy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw him away;
+ and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were flying from system
+ to system through the universe of stars. But, as the giant had thrown him
+ away carelessly, he did not strike a stone, but struck soft mire by the
+ side of a distant river. There he lay insensible for several hours; but
+ when he awoke again his horrible conqueror was still in sight. He was
+ striding away across the void and wooded plain towards where it ended in
+ the sea; and by this time he was only much higher than any of the hills.
+ He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really high mountain grows at
+ last less and less when we leave it in a railway train. Half an hour
+ afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the distant hills; but his
+ outline was still human and still gigantic. Then the big blue figure
+ seemed to come to the brink of the big blue sea, and even as it did so it
+ altered its attitude. Jack, stunned and bleeding, lifted himself
+ laboriously upon one elbow to stare. The giant once more caught hold of
+ his ankle, wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over into the great
+ sea which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all things God has
+ made, was big enough to drown him.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"></a>
+XXI. A Great Man</h2>
+ <p>
+ People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has always
+ seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing away the veils from
+ private life; but it seems to me to be always dropping diaphanous but
+ blinding veils between men and men. The Yellow Press is abused for
+ exposing facts which are private; I wish the Yellow Press did anything so
+ valuable. It is exactly the decisive individual touches that it never
+ gives; and a proof of this is that after one has met a man a million times
+ in the newspapers it is always a complete shock and reversal to meet him
+ in real life. The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of catching the
+ first fresh fact about a man that dominates all after impressions. For
+ instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that he spoke with a reckless
+ desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of sentiment; but I never knew
+ till he opened his mouth that he spoke with an Irish accent, which is more
+ important than all the other criticisms put together.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out private
+ personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities on the
+ surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression of this kind
+ which we have all felt when we met great poets or politicians, but which
+ never finds its way into the newspapers. I mean the impression that they
+ are much older than we thought they were. We connect great men with their
+ great triumphs, which generally happened some years ago, and many recruits
+ enthusiastic for the thin Napoleon of Marengo must have found themselves
+ in the presence of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising politician
+ confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of boyhood. It
+ described how his &ldquo;brave young voice&rdquo; rang in the rafters. I also remember
+ that I met him some days after, and he was considerably older than my own
+ father. I mention this truth for only one purpose: all this generalisation
+ leads up to only one fact&mdash;the fact that I once met a great man who
+ was younger than I expected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down a
+ stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies. A
+ warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight which
+ though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening. It was such
+ sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set an instant after
+ noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened and the road sank.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents; I felt that the
+ treetops that closed above me were the fixed and real things, certain as
+ the level of the sea; but that the solid earth was every instant failing
+ under my feet. In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in
+ splashes, like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky. Around me
+ in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every plain or twisted
+ type; it was like a chapel supported on columns of every earthly and
+ unearthly style of architecture.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature of the
+ forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force. For the meaning of
+ woods is the combination of energy with complexity. A forest is not in the
+ least rude or barbarous; it is only dense with delicacy. Unique shapes
+ that an artist would copy or a philosopher watch for years if he found
+ them in an open plain are here mingled and confounded; but it is not a
+ darkness of deformity. It is a darkness of life; a darkness of perfection.
+ And I began to think how much of the highest human obscurity is like this,
+ and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell you, for
+ instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead. Believe me,
+ if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate; it is only the
+ live tree that grows too many branches.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out into
+ deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the evening was so
+ far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a sunset all to itself. I
+ went along that road according to directions that had been given me, and
+ passed the gateway in a slight paling beyond which the wood changed only
+ faintly to a garden. It was as if the curious courtesy and fineness of
+ that character I was to meet went out from him upon the valley; for I felt
+ on all these things the finger of that quality which the old English
+ called &ldquo;faërie&rdquo;; it is the quality which those can never understand who
+ think of the past as merely brutal; it is an ancient elegance such as
+ there is in trees. I went through the garden and saw an old man sitting by
+ a table, looking smallish in his big chair. He was already an invalid, and
+ his hair and beard were both white; not like snow, for snow is cold and
+ heavy, but like something feathery, or even fierce; rather they were white
+ like the white thistledown. I came up quite close to him; he looked at me
+ as he put out his frail hand, and I saw of a sudden that his eyes were
+ startlingly young. He was the one great man of the old world whom I have
+ met who was not a mere statue over his own grave.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about the books
+ he had written; he was far too much alive for that. He talked about the
+ books he had not written. He unrolled a purple bundle of romances which he
+ had never had time to sell. He asked me to write one of the stories for
+ him, as he would have asked the milkman, if he had been talking to the
+ milkman. It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort of astronomical
+ farce. It was all about a man who was rushing up to the Royal Society with
+ the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying comet; and it showed
+ how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped up at every other
+ minute by his own weakness and vanities; how he lost a train by trifling
+ or was put in gaol for brawling. That is only one of them; there were ten
+ or twenty more. Another, I dimly remember, was a version of the fall of
+ Parnell; the idea that a quite honest man might be secret from a pure love
+ of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went out of that garden with a
+ blurred sensation of the million possibilities of creative literature. The
+ feeling increased as my way fell back into the wood; for a wood is a
+ palace with a million corridors that cross each other everywhere. I really
+ had the feeling that I had seen the creative quality; which is
+ supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls the Old Man of the Forest: I
+ had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind my path; I have never seen him
+ again; and now I shall not see him, because he died last Tuesday.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"></a>
+XXII. The Orthodox Barber</h2>
+ <p>
+ Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert that the love
+ of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them; and so, perhaps, it
+ would, if they had it. There is a very real thing which may be called the
+ love of humanity; in our time it exists almost entirely among what are
+ called uneducated people; and it does not exist at all among the people
+ who talk about it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being is
+ chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday; that is
+ why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances) than any other
+ part of our population.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty train at
+ a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them; they all got
+ into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the train entirely empty.
+ That is the real love of humanity. That is the definite pleasure in the
+ immediate proximity of one&rsquo;s own kind. Only this coarse, rank, real love
+ of men seems to be entirely lacking in those who propose the love of
+ humanity as a substitute for all other love; honourable, rationalistic
+ idealists.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked the sudden
+ starting of that train; all the factory girls who could not find seats
+ (and they must have been the majority) relieving their feelings by jumping
+ up and down. Now I have never seen any rationalistic idealists do this. I
+ have never seen twenty modern philosophers crowd into one third-class
+ carriage for the mere pleasure of being together. I have never seen twenty
+ Mr. McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and down.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun all beautiful
+ places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches. But their fear is
+ unreasonable; because trippers always prefer to trip together; they pack
+ as close as they can; they have a suffocating passion of philanthropy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle, I have no
+ hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber. Before any
+ modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist (I insist with
+ violence) that he shall always be very much pleased when his barber tries
+ to talk to him. His barber is humanity: let him love that. If he is not
+ pleased at this, I will not accept any substitute in the way of interest
+ in the Congo or the future of Japan. If a man cannot love his barber whom
+ he has seen, how shall he love the Japanese whom he has not seen?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about the
+ weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about it
+ with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks about
+ it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest. It is
+ objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald. That is to
+ say, his very virtues are cast up against him; he is blamed because, being
+ a specialist, he is a sincere specialist, and because, being a tradesman,
+ he is not entirely a slave. But the only proof of such things is by
+ example; therefore I will prove the excellence of the conversation of
+ barbers by a specific case. Lest any one should accuse me of attempting to
+ prove it by fictitious means, I beg to say quite seriously that though I
+ forget the exact language employed, the following conversation between me
+ and a human (I trust), living barber really took place a few days ago.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers, and lest
+ I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out of the
+ interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get shaved.
+ While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir. It
+ seems you can shave yourself with anything&mdash;with a stick or a stone
+ or a pole or a poker&rdquo; (here I began for the first time to detect a
+ sarcastic intonation) &ldquo;or a shovel or a&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about the
+ matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Or a button-hook,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram or a
+ piston-rod&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, &ldquo;Or a curtain rod or a
+ candle-stick, or a&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Cow-catcher,&rdquo; I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic duet
+ for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told me. He
+ explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The funny part of it is,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;that the thing isn&rsquo;t new at all. It&rsquo;s
+ been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before. There is always
+ a notion that the razor might be done without somehow. But none of those
+ schemes ever came to anything; and I don&rsquo;t believe myself that this will.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why, as to that,&rdquo; I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying to put
+ on my coat inside out, &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t know how it may be in the case of you and
+ your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you, is a trivial and
+ materialistic thing, and in such things startling inventions are sometimes
+ made. But what you say reminds me in some dark and dreamy fashion of
+ something else. I recall it especially when you tell me, with such evident
+ experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not really new. My
+ friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of making everything
+ entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts off one thing it shifts
+ on to another. If one man has not the toil of preparing a man&rsquo;s chin, I
+ suppose that some other man has the toil of preparing something very
+ curious to put on a man&rsquo;s chin. It would be nice if we could be shaved
+ without troubling anybody. It would be nicer still if we could go unshaved
+ without annoying anybody&mdash;
+ </p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,<br/>
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.&rsquo;
+</p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it under
+ strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written that a man
+ shall not eat his cake and have it; and though all men talked until the
+ stars were old it would still be true that a man who has lost his razor
+ could not shave with it. But every now and then men jump up with the new
+ something or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+ that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there is no real
+ difference between being shaved and not being shaved. The difference, they
+ say, is only a difference of degree; everything is evolutionary and
+ relative. Shavedness is immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is a
+ Potential Razor. The superstitious people of the past (they say) believed
+ that a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to one&rsquo;s face
+ was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches us better.
+ Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow where Shaving should be.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something. But a baby is
+ the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby he will know whether you
+ are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing up being shaved and being saved; my
+ democratic sympathies have always led me to drop my &lsquo;h&rsquo;s.&rsquo; In another
+ moment I may suggest that goats represent the lost because goats have long
+ beards. This is growing altogether too allegorical.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nevertheless,&rdquo; I added, as I paid the bill, &ldquo;I have really been
+ profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving. Have you
+ ever heard of a thing called the New theology?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He smiled and said that he had not.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"></a>
+XXIII. The Toy Theatre</h2>
+ <p>
+ There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+ and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys takes so
+ very much more time and trouble than anything else. Playing as children
+ mean playing is the most serious thing in the world; and as soon as we
+ have small duties or small sorrows we have to abandon to some extent so
+ enormous and ambitious a plan of life. We have enough strength for
+ politics and commerce and art and philosophy; we have not enough strength
+ for play. This is a truth which every one will recognize who, as a child,
+ has ever played with anything at all; any one who has played with bricks,
+ any one who has played with dolls, any one who has played with tin
+ soldiers. My journalistic work, which earns money, is not pursued with
+ such awful persistency as that work which earned nothing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow in twelve volumes
+ (it would be just like you) on &ldquo;The Theory and Practice of European
+ Architecture,&rdquo; your work may be laborious, but it is fundamentally
+ frivolous. It is not serious as the work of a child piling one brick on
+ the other is serious; for the simple reason that if your book is a bad
+ book no one will ever be able ultimately and entirely to prove to you that
+ it is a bad book. Whereas if his balance of bricks is a bad balance of
+ bricks, it will simply tumble down. And if I know anything of children, he
+ will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it up again. Whereas, if I
+ know anything of authors, nothing would induce you to write your book
+ again, or even to think of it again if you could help it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational cause
+ than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on education as
+ to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else. But it is
+ almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after a child. The
+ little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea worship their
+ dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play as idolatry. In some
+ cases the love and care of the artistic symbol has actually become more
+ important than the human reality which it was, I suppose, originally meant
+ to symbolize.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+ stuffed into a doll&rsquo;s perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+ conduct, she replied: &ldquo;I haven&rsquo;t got a dolly, and Baby is pretending to be
+ my dolly.&rdquo; Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had been a
+ substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute for a
+ doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such devotion
+ takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if it were really
+ the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point is that the man
+ writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist; the child playing with
+ a doll is a mother.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+ is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+ campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+ soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+ thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember a
+ war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: &ldquo;This renewed
+ activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his being short of
+ stores.&rdquo; The same military critic had mentioned a few paragraphs before
+ that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which was pursuing him
+ under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey; and Delarey&rsquo;s
+ activity was due to his being short of stores. Otherwise he would have
+ stood quite still while he was chased. I run after Jones with a hatchet,
+ and if he turns round and tries to get rid of me the only possible
+ explanation is that he has a very small balance at his bankers. I cannot
+ believe that any boy playing at soldiers would be as idiotic as this. But
+ then any one playing at anything has to be serious. Whereas, as I have
+ only too good reason to know, if you are writing an article you can say
+ anything that comes into your head.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children&rsquo;s games is,
+ generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure in them; it is simply
+ that they have no leisure for them. It is that they cannot afford the
+ expenditure of toil and time and consideration for so grand and grave a
+ scheme. I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete a
+ play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre that used to be
+ called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured; only that I drew and coloured
+ the figures and scenes myself. Hence I was free from the degrading
+ obligation of having to pay either a penny or twopence; I only had to pay
+ a shilling a sheet for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad water
+ colours. The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar to every
+ one; it is never more than a development of the stage which Skelt made and
+ Stevenson celebrated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I ever worked
+ at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work seems too heavy for
+ me. I have to break off and betake myself to lighter employments; such as
+ the biographies of great men. The play of &ldquo;St. George and the Dragon,&rdquo;
+ over which I have burnt the midnight oil (you must colour the thing by
+ lamplight because that is how it will be seen), still lacks most
+ conspicuously, alas! two wings of the Sultan&rsquo;s Palace, and also some
+ comprehensible and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality. In
+ this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because pure
+ pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours. But it is partly
+ because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble. If I am ever in
+ any other and better world, I hope that I shall have enough time to play
+ with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I shall have enough divine
+ and superhuman energy to act at least one play in them without a hitch.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one&rsquo;s consideration.
+ All the essential morals which modern men need to learn could be deduced
+ from this toy. Artistically considered, it reminds us of the main
+ principle of art, the principle which is in most danger of being forgotten
+ in our time. I mean the fact that art consists of limitation; the fact
+ that art is limitation. Art does not consist in expanding things. Art
+ consists of cutting things down, as I cut down with a pair of scissors my
+ very ugly figures of St. George and the Dragon. Plato, who liked definite
+ ideas, would like my cardboard dragon; for though the creature has few
+ other artistic merits he is at least dragonish. The modern philosopher,
+ who likes infinity, is quite welcome to a sheet of the plain cardboard.
+ The most artistic thing about the theatrical art is the fact that the
+ spectator looks at the whole thing through a window. This is true even of
+ theatres inferior to my own; even at the Court Theatre or His Majesty&rsquo;s
+ you are looking through a window; an unusually large window. But the
+ advantage of the small theatre exactly is that you are looking through a
+ small window. Has not every one noticed how sweet and startling any
+ landscape looks when seen through an arch? This strong, square shape, this
+ shutting off of everything else is not only an assistance to beauty; it is
+ the essential of beauty. The most beautiful part of every picture is the
+ frame.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing the scale of
+ events it can introduce much larger events. Because it is small it could
+ easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica. Because it is small it could
+ easily represent the Day of Judgment. Exactly in so far as it is limited,
+ so far it could play easily with falling cities or with falling stars.
+ Meanwhile the big theatres are obliged to be economical because they are
+ big. When we have understood this fact we shall have understood something
+ of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by small
+ nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier into the small
+ city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia. In the narrow
+ streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room for Purgatory and
+ Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled by the British Empire. Great
+ empires are necessarily prosaic; for it is beyond human power to act a
+ great poem upon so great a scale. You can only represent very big ideas in
+ very small spaces. My toy theatre is as philosophical as the drama of
+ Athens.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"></a>
+XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence</h2>
+ <p>
+ My relations with the readers of this page have been long and pleasant,
+ but&mdash;perhaps for that very reason&mdash;I feel that the time has come
+ when I ought to confess the one great crime of my life. It happened a long
+ time ago; but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse to reveal
+ such dark episodes long after they have occurred. It has nothing to do
+ with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League. That body is so offensively
+ respectable that a newspaper, in describing it the other day, referred to
+ my friend Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed that
+ similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is not by the conduct of
+ Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton, of the Rev. James Douglas, of
+ Monsignor Bland, and even of that fine and virile old ecclesiastic,
+ Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish (or rather, am driven by my conscience) to
+ make this declaration. The crime was committed in solitude and without
+ accomplices. Alone I did it. Let me, with the characteristic thirst of
+ penitents to get the worst of the confession over, state it first of all
+ in its most dreadful and indefensible form. There is at the present moment
+ in a town in Germany (unless he has died of rage on discovering his
+ wrong), a restaurant-keeper to whom I still owe twopence. I last left his
+ open-air restaurant knowing that I owed him twopence. I carried it away
+ under his nose, despite the fact that the nose was a decidedly Jewish one.
+ I have never paid him, and it is highly improbable that I ever shall. How
+ did this villainy come to occur in a life which has been, generally
+ speaking, deficient in the dexterity necessary for fraud? The story is as
+ follows&mdash;and it has a moral, though there may not be room for that.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that the
+ easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy. The
+ most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities. The
+ reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely with
+ each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint. How, for instance,
+ could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would be called a &ldquo;scuttle&rdquo;? If
+ he has ever seen the word scuttle it has been in the Jingo Press, where
+ the &ldquo;policy of scuttle&rdquo; is used whenever we give up something to a small
+ Power like Liberals, instead of giving up everything to a great Power,
+ like Imperialists. What Englishman in Germany would be poet enough to
+ guess that the Germans call a glove a &ldquo;hand-shoe.&rdquo; Nations name their
+ necessities by nicknames, so to speak. They call their tubs and stools by
+ quaint, elvish, and almost affectionate names, as if they were their own
+ children! But any one can argue about abstract things in a foreign
+ language who has ever got as far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon
+ as he can put a sentence together at all he finds that the words used in
+ abstract or philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations.
+ They are the same, for the simple reason that they all come from the
+ things that were the roots of our common civilisation. From Christianity,
+ from the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church, or the French
+ Revolution. &ldquo;Nation,&rdquo; &ldquo;citizen,&rdquo; &ldquo;religion,&rdquo; &ldquo;philosophy,&rdquo; &ldquo;authority,&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;the Republic,&rdquo; words like these are nearly the same in all the countries
+ in which we travel. Restrain, therefore, your exuberant admiration for the
+ young man who can argue with six French atheists when he first lands at
+ Dieppe. Even I can do that. But very likely the same young man does not
+ know the French for a shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there are
+ three great exceptions. (1) In the case of countries that are not European
+ at all, and have never had our civic conceptions, or the old Latin
+ scholarship. I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for &ldquo;citizenship&rdquo;
+ at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak&rsquo;s word for &ldquo;the Republic&rdquo; has
+ been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of Germany, where,
+ although the principle does apply to many words such as &ldquo;nation&rdquo; and
+ &ldquo;philosophy,&rdquo; it does not apply so generally, because Germany has had a
+ special and deliberate policy of encouraging the purely German part of its
+ language. (3) In the case where one does not know any of the language at
+ all, as is generally the case with me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed my
+ crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned were
+ combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German. I knew,
+ however, two or three of those great and solemn words which hold our
+ European civilisation together&mdash;one of which is &ldquo;cigar.&rdquo; As it was a
+ hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort of beer-garden, and
+ ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the lager, and paid for it. I
+ smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it, and walked away, gazing
+ rapturously at the royal outline of the Taunus mountains. After about ten
+ minutes, I suddenly remembered that I had not paid for the cigar. I went
+ back to the place of refreshment, and put down the money. But the
+ proprietor also had forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural
+ things in a tone of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said
+ &ldquo;cigar,&rdquo; and he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the
+ money to wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that my
+ rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular cigar,
+ and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill, seeking to
+ convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture that my rejection was a
+ rejection of cigars in general, not of that particular article. He mistook
+ this for the ordinary impatience of common men, and rushed forward, his
+ hands filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing them upon me. In
+ desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the more cigars I
+ refused the more and more rare and precious cigars were brought out of the
+ deeps and recesses of the establishment. I tried in vain to think of a way
+ of conveying to him the fact that I had already had the cigar. I imitated
+ the action of a citizen smoking, knocking off and throwing away a cigar.
+ The watchful proprietor only thought I was rehearsing (as in an ecstasy of
+ anticipation) the joys of the cigar he was going to give me. At last I
+ retired baffled: he would not take the money and leave the cigars alone.
+ So that this restaurant-keeper (in whose face a love of money shone like
+ the sun at noonday) flatly and firmly refused to receive the twopence that
+ I certainly owed him; and I took that twopence of his away with me and
+ rioted on it for months. I hope that on the last day the angels will break
+ the truth very gently to that unhappy man.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud, and the moral
+ of it is this&mdash;that civilisation is founded upon abstractions. The
+ idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed by physical motions at all,
+ because it is an abstract idea. And civilisation obviously would be
+ nothing without debt. So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific
+ sociology (which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation is
+ material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves how many of
+ the things that make up our Society, the Law, or the Stocks and Shares, or
+ the National Debt, you would be able to convey with your face and your ten
+ fingers by grinning and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"></a>
+XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country</h2>
+ <p>
+ Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there lies a
+ village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue, but of
+ eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present writer to
+ come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+ owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws and customs
+ have fallen in connection with the seventh day. It is not Puritanism; it
+ is simply anarchy. I should have some sympathy with the Jewish Sabbath, if
+ it were a Jewish Sabbath, and that for three reasons; first, that religion
+ is an intrinsically sympathetic thing; second, that I cannot conceive any
+ religion worth calling a religion without a fixed and material observance;
+ and third, that the particular observance of sitting still and doing no
+ work is one that suits my temperament down to the ground.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it does not let
+ a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him up when it has forced him
+ to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism does not forbid us to ask a man in
+ Battersea to come and talk in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his getting
+ there. I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with joys, with
+ flowers, and fireworks in the old European style. I can understand that a
+ deity might be worshipped with sorrows. But I cannot imagine any deity
+ being worshipped with inconveniences. Let the good Moslem go to Mecca, or
+ let him abide in his tent, according to his feelings for religious
+ symbols. But surely Allah cannot see anything particularly dignified in
+ his servant being misled by the time-table, finding that the old Mecca
+ express is not running, missing his connection at Bagdad, or having to
+ wait three hours in a small side station outside Damascus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph service
+ at all to this place; I found there was only one weak thread of
+ train-service. Now if this had been the authority of real English
+ religion, I should have submitted to it at once. If I believed that the
+ telegraph clerk could not send the telegram because he was at that moment
+ rigid in an ecstasy of prayer, I should think all telegrams unimportant in
+ comparison. If I could believe that railway porters when relieved from
+ their duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of worship, I should
+ say that all lectures and everything else ought to give way to such a
+ consideration. I should not complain if the national faith forbade me to
+ make any appointments of labour or self-expression on the Sabbath. But, as
+ it is, it only tells me that I may very probably keep the Sabbath by not
+ keeping the appointment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there was only
+ one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could even get within
+ several hours or several miles of the time or place. I therefore went to
+ the telephone, which is one of my favourite toys, and down which I have
+ shouted many valuable, but prematurely arrested, monologues upon art and
+ morals. I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered that one
+ could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be cut off, but
+ I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days, to the advancement of
+ our national religion. Through this instrument, in fewer words than usual,
+ and with a comparative economy of epigram, I ordered a taxi-cab to take me
+ to the railway station. I have not a word to say in general either against
+ telephones or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two of the purest and most poetic
+ of the creations of modern scientific civilisation. Unfortunately, when
+ the taxi-cab started, it did exactly what modern scientific civilisation
+ has done&mdash;it broke down. The result of this was that when I arrived
+ at King&rsquo;s Cross my only train was gone; there was a Sabbath calm in the
+ station, a calm in the eyes of the porters, and in my breast, if calm at
+ all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my breast on first
+ making the discovery; and it was turned to blinding horror when I learnt
+ that I could not even send a telegram to the organisers of the meeting. To
+ leave my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating; to leave
+ them without any intimation was simply low. I reasoned with the official.
+ I said: &ldquo;Do you really mean to say that if my brother were dying and my
+ mother in this place, I could not communicate with her?&rdquo; He was a man of
+ literal and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was dying. I
+ answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health, but that I
+ was inquiring upon a question of principle. What would happen if England
+ were invaded, or if I alone knew how to turn aside a comet or an
+ earthquake. He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible
+ spirit, but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+ particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element of the
+ outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang up ungovernable,
+ and I decided that I would not be a cad merely because some of my remote
+ ancestors had been Calvinists. I would keep my appointment if I lost all
+ my money and all my wits. I went out into the quiet London street, where
+ my quiet London cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty
+ morning. I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the London
+ driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire. And he did.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful whether, even in a
+ motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+ not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road. I
+ urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started, but he said
+ (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate sense of adventure)
+ that he would rather do it when we arrived&mdash;if we ever did. I was by
+ no means so delicate; I bought a varied selection of pork-pies at a little
+ shop that was open (why was that shop open?&mdash;it is all a mystery),
+ and ate them as we went along. The beginning was sombre and irritating. I
+ was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a baby; with the motor
+ for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday. And the sight of the
+ northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did not decrease, my gloom:
+ Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness in its squalor; Battersea and
+ Camberwell have an indescribable bustle of democracy; but the poor parts
+ of North London... well, perhaps I saw them wrongly under that ashen
+ morning and on that foolish errand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was one of those days which more than once this year broke the retreat
+ of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring. We were already
+ clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace through a
+ borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses, when the grey
+ showed golden patches and a good light began to glitter on everything. The
+ cab went quicker and quicker. The open land whirled wider and wider; but I
+ did not lose my sense of being battled with and thwarted that I had felt
+ in the thronged slums. Rather the feeling increased, because of the great
+ difficulty of space and time. The faster went the car, the fiercer and
+ thicker I felt the fight.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The whole landscape seemed charging at me&mdash;and just missing me. The
+ tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows; the very trees seemed
+ like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving it by a hair&rsquo;s breadth. Across
+ some vast, smooth valley I saw a beech-tree by the white road stand up
+ little and defiant. It grew bigger and bigger with blinding rapidity. It
+ charged me like a tilting knight, seemed to hack at my head, and pass by.
+ Sometimes when we went round a curve of road, the effect was yet more
+ awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill swung round to smite like a
+ boomerang. The sun by this time was a blazing fact; and I saw that all
+ Nature is chivalrous and militant. We do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we
+ should rather seek the nobler sort of war; and see all the trees as green
+ banners.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+ When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided, with evident
+ disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw a veil. When I came
+ back home I was called to the telephone, and a meek voice expressed regret
+ for the failure of the motor-cab, and even said something about any
+ reasonable payment. &ldquo;Whom can I pay for my own superb experience? What is
+ the usual charge for seeing the clouds shattered by the sun? What is the
+ market price of a tree blue on the sky-line and then blinding white in the
+ sun? Mention your price for that windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks
+ in the garden. Let me pay you for...&rdquo; Here it was, I think, that we were
+ cut off.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027"></a>
+XXVI. The Two Noises</h2>
+ <p>
+ For three days and three nights the sea had charged England as Napoleon
+ charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive, because away to the
+ last grey line of the sea there was only the look of galloping squadrons,
+ impetuous, but with a common purpose. The sea came on like cavalry, and
+ when it touched the shore it opened the blazing eyes and deafening tongues
+ of the artillery. I saw the worst assault at night on a seaside parade
+ where the sea smote on the doors of England with the hammers of
+ earthquake, and a white smoke went up into the black heavens. There one
+ could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is. I talk like
+ other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave. But the horrible thing
+ about a wave is its hideous slowness. It lifts its load of water
+ laboriously: in that style at once slow and slippery in which a Titan
+ might lift a load of rock and then let it slip at last to be shattered
+ into shock of dust. In front of me that night the waves were not like
+ water: they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose first as if it
+ did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to attack the stars. For
+ a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a tower; then it went a
+ little wrong in its outline, like a tower that might some day fall. When
+ it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew up.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across the land one
+ of those stiff and throttling winds that one can lean up against like a
+ wall. One expected anything to be blown out of shape at any instant; the
+ lamp-post to be snapped like a green stalk, the tree to be whirled away
+ like a straw. I myself should certainly have been blown out of shape if I
+ had possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked along the edge of
+ the stone embankment above the black and battering sea and could not rid
+ myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England. But as I walked
+ along this edge I was somewhat surprised to find that as I neared a
+ certain spot another noise mingled with the ceaseless cannonade of the
+ sea.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino or place of
+ entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing against the cosmic
+ uproar. I do not know what band it was. Judging from the boisterous
+ British Imperialism of most of the airs it played, I should think it was a
+ German band. But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came
+ quite close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+ things as &ldquo;Tommy Atkins&rdquo; and &ldquo;You Can Depend on Young Australia,&rdquo; and many
+ others of which I do not know the words, but I should think they would be
+ &ldquo;John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,&rdquo; or that fine though unwritten
+ poem, &ldquo;Wait till the Bull Dog gets a bite of you.&rdquo; Now, I for one detest
+ Imperialism, but I have a great deal of sympathy with Jingoism. And there
+ seemed something so touching about this unbroken and innocent bragging
+ under the brutal menace of Nature that it made, if I may so put it, two
+ tunes in my mind. It is so obvious and so jolly to be optimistic about
+ England, especially when you are an optimist&mdash;and an Englishman. But
+ through all that glorious brass came the voice of the invasion, the
+ undertone of that awful sea. I did a foolish thing. As I could not express
+ my meaning in an article, I tried to express it in a poem&mdash;a bad one.
+ You can call it what you like. It might be called &ldquo;Doubt,&rdquo; or &ldquo;Brighton.&rdquo;
+ It might be called &ldquo;The Patriot,&rdquo; or yet again &ldquo;The German Band.&rdquo; I would
+ call it &ldquo;The Two Voices,&rdquo; but that title has been taken for a grossly
+ inferior poem. This is how it began&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;They say the sun is on your knees<br/>
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,<br/>
+ They say you turn the seven seas<br/>
+ To little brooks about your farm.<br/>
+ I hear the sea and the new song<br/>
+ that calls you empress all day long.<br/>
+<br/>
+ &ldquo;(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie<br/>
+ Dying in swamps&mdash;you shall not die,<br/>
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,<br/>
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,<br/>
+ Emptied of anger and surprise&mdash;<br/>
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,<br/>
+ Your cohorts break&mdash;your captains lie,<br/>
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there is an English
+ country that the Imperialists have never found. The British Empire may
+ annex what it likes, it will never annex England. It has not even
+ discovered the island, let alone conquered it. I took up the two tunes
+ again with a greater sympathy for the first&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;I know the bright baptismal rains,<br/>
+    I love your tender troubled skies,<br/>
+ I know your little climbing lanes,<br/>
+    Are peering into Paradise,<br/>
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,<br/>
+ How bountiful and beautiful.<br/>
+<br/>
+ &ldquo;(O throttled and without a cry,<br/>
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,<br/>
+ The frightful word is on your walls,<br/>
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,<br/>
+ The stars are dying in the sky,<br/>
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the peril
+ of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England. It is their
+ fault if the last verse was written a little rudely and at random&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;I see you how you smile in state<br/>
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,<br/>
+ You need not tell me you are great,<br/>
+ I know how more than great you are.<br/>
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,<br/>
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.<br/>
+<br/>
+ &ldquo;(O given to believe a lie,<br/>
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,<br/>
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,<br/>
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,<br/>
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,<br/>
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,<br/>
+ You shall your lover still pursue.<br/>
+ To what last madhouse shelters you<br/>
+ I will uphold you, even I.<br/>
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute; and as for the
+ German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028"></a>
+XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral</h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood in
+ Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and intricate
+ mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the keeping off of
+ the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing. At the moment in
+ question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at a tree, practising (alas,
+ without success) that useful trick of knife-throwing by which men murder
+ each other in Stevenson&rsquo;s romances.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something about
+ their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that reminded me, I know
+ not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy. They asked what the knife was,
+ who I was, why I was throwing it, what my address was, trade, religion,
+ opinions on the Japanese war, name of favourite cat, and so on. They also
+ said I was damaging the tree; which was, I am sorry to say, not true,
+ because I could not hit it. The peculiar philosophical importance,
+ however, of the incident was this. After some half-hour&rsquo;s animated
+ conversation, the exhibition of an envelope, an unfinished poem, which was
+ read with great care, and, I trust, with some profit, and one or two other
+ subtle detective strokes, the elder of the two knights became convinced
+ that I really was what I professed to be, that I was a journalist, that I
+ was on the DAILY NEWS (this was the real stroke; they were shaken with a
+ terror common to all tyrants), that I lived in a particular place as
+ stated, and that I was stopping with particular people in Yorkshire, who
+ happened to be wealthy and well-known in the neighbourhood.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary at last
+ that he ended up by representing himself as a reader of my work. And when
+ that was said, everything was settled. They acquitted me and let me pass.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue of that
+ Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like knight-errants. You,
+ the higher humanitarians, are not deceived by the seeming stillness of the
+ green things, a stillness like the stillness of the cataract, a headlong
+ and crashing silence. You know that a tree is but a creature tied to the
+ ground by one leg. You will not let assassins with their Swedish daggers
+ shed the green blood of such a being. But if so, why am I not in custody;
+ where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your persons, my mouldy
+ straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have just convinced you,
+ that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist, that I am living with
+ the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank of Ilkley, cannot have anything
+ to do with the question of whether I have been guilty of cruelty to
+ vegetables. The tree is none the less damaged even though it may reflect
+ with a dark pride that it was wounded by a gentleman connected with the
+ Liberal press. Wounds in the bark do not more rapidly close up because
+ they are inflicted by people who are stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley.
+ That tree, the ruin of its former self, the wreck of what was once a giant
+ of the forest, now splintered and laid low by the brute superiority of a
+ Swedish knife, that tragedy, constable, cannot be wiped out even by
+ stopping for several months more with some wealthy person. It is
+ incredible that you have no legal claim to arrest even the most august and
+ fashionable persons on this charge. For if so, why did you interfere with
+ me at all?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood, for
+ the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came. It is very
+ possible, of course, that they were fairies. In that case the somewhat
+ illogical character of their view of crime, law, and personal
+ responsibility would find a bright and elfish explanation; perhaps if I
+ had lingered in the glade till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny
+ policemen dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+ arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass. But taking the bolder
+ hypothesis, that they really were policemen, I find myself in a certain
+ difficulty. I was certainly accused of something which was either an
+ offence or was not. I was let off because I proved I was a guest at a big
+ house. The inference seems painfully clear; either it is not a proof of
+ infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood, or else it is a proof of
+ innocence to know a rich man. Suppose a very poor person, poorer even than
+ a journalist, a navvy or unskilled labourer, tramping in search of work,
+ often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps, failing in his rent. Suppose
+ he had been intoxicated with the green gaiety of the ancient wood. Suppose
+ he had thrown knives at trees and could give no description of a
+ dwelling-place except that he had been fired out of the last. As I walked
+ home through a cloudy and purple twilight I wondered how he would have got
+ on.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical; there is
+ no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil in the fact that
+ people always brag about their vices; it is when they begin to brag about
+ their virtues that they become insufferable. But there is this to be said,
+ that illogicality in your constitution or your legal methods may become
+ very dangerous if there happens to be some great national vice or national
+ temptation which many take advantage of the chaos. Similarly, a drunkard
+ ought to have strict rules and hours; a temperate man may obey his
+ instincts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take some absurd anomaly in the British law&mdash;the fact, for instance,
+ that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the Chiltern
+ Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally to keep down
+ some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is. Obviously this kind of
+ illogicality does not matter very much, for the simple reason that there
+ is no great temptation to take advantage of it. Men retiring from
+ Parliament do not have any furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills.
+ But if there were a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable
+ politicians taking leave of public life would desire to do this (if, for
+ instance, there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on saying
+ that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact) Sir
+ Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day and taking
+ their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality would matter,
+ for it would have become an excuse for indulgence. It is only the very
+ good who can live riotous lives.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation such
+ as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great national
+ sin, a far greater sin than drink&mdash;the habit of respecting a
+ gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry. And
+ snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil, that it is
+ rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts and houses. But it is
+ our great English vice; to be watched more fiercely than small-pox. If a
+ man wished to hear the worst and wickedest thing in England summed up in
+ casual English words, he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald
+ quarrelling. He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working
+ man, when he wishes to praise any one, calls him &ldquo;a gentleman.&rdquo; It never
+ occurs to him that he might as well call him &ldquo;a marquis,&rdquo; or &ldquo;a privy
+ councillor&rdquo;&mdash;that he is simply naming a rank or class, not a phrase
+ for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a shameful admiration,
+ must, and, I think, does, constantly come in and distort and poison our
+ police methods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch upon
+ ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest, is
+ increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people, without this
+ temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and systems to
+ guard themselves against the power of our great financiers. But that is
+ because a very just people would have shot them long ago, from mere native
+ good feeling.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029"></a>
+XXVIII. The Lion</h2>
+ <p>
+ In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+ talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+ man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+ lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+ When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his first
+ feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town or village; when
+ he looks again he sees that this comparative absence of the picturesque is
+ chiefly expressed in the plain, precipitous frontage of the houses
+ standing up hard and flat out of the street like the cardboard houses in a
+ pantomime&mdash;a hard angularity allied perhaps to the harshness of
+ French logic. When he looks a third time he sees quite simply that it is
+ all because the houses have no front gardens. The vague English spirit
+ loves to have the entrance to its house softened by bushes and broken by
+ steps. It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges half in the house and
+ half out of it; a green room in a double sense. The Frenchman desires no
+ such little pathetic ramparts or halting places, for the street itself is
+ a thing natural and familiar to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man&rsquo;s front
+ garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains. The street
+ is the Frenchman&rsquo;s tavern, for he drinks in the street. It is his
+ dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his British Museum, for the
+ statues and monuments in French streets are not, as with us, of the worst,
+ but of the best, art of the country, and they are often actually as
+ historical as the Pyramids. The street again is the Frenchman&rsquo;s
+ Parliament, for France has never taken its Chamber of Deputies so
+ seriously as we take our House of Commons, and the quibbles of mere
+ elected nonentities in an official room seem feeble to a people whose
+ fathers have heard the voice of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open
+ heaven, or Victor Hugo shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the
+ second Republic. And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in
+ the street so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so that
+ the street can never be commonplace to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London a
+ lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated gentleman
+ embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship. But in Paris a lamp-post
+ is a tragic thing. For we think of tyrants hanged on it, and of an end of
+ the world. There is, or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris called LA
+ LANTERNE. How funny it would be if there were a Progressive paper in
+ England called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the Frenchman is
+ the man in the street; that he can dine in the street, and die in the
+ street. And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going to bed in the
+ street, I shall say that he is still true to the genius of his
+ civilisation. All that is good and all that is evil in France is alike
+ connected with this open-air element. French democracy and French
+ indecency are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+ Compared to a café, a public-house is a private house.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through the mind
+ in the streets of this especial town of Belfort. First of all, it lies
+ close upon the boundary of France and Germany, and boundaries are the most
+ beautiful things in the world. To love anything is to love its boundaries;
+ thus children will always play on the edge of anything. They build castles
+ on the edge of the sea, and can only be restrained by public proclamation
+ and private violence from walking on the edge of the grass. For when we
+ have come to the end of a thing we have come to the beginning of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very margin of
+ Germany, and although there were many German touches in the place&mdash;German
+ names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical barmaids dressed up in
+ outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants&mdash;yet the fixed French
+ colour seemed all the stronger for these specks of something else. All day
+ long and all night long troops of dusty, swarthy, scornful little soldiers
+ went plodding through the streets with an air of stubborn disgust, for
+ German soldiers look as if they despised you, but French soldiers as if
+ they despised you and themselves even more than you. It is a part, I
+ suppose, of the realism of the nation which has made it good at war and
+ science and other things in which what is necessary is combined with what
+ is nasty. And the soldiers and the civilians alike had most of them
+ cropped hair, and that curious kind of head which to an Englishman looks
+ almost brutal, the kind that we call a bullet-head. Indeed, we are
+ speaking very appropriately when we call it a bullet-head, for in
+ intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen have been bullets&mdash;yes,
+ and explosive bullets.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+ particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art of the French.
+ For this town of Belfort is famous for one of the most typical and
+ powerful of the public monuments of France. From the café table at which I
+ sit I can see the hill beyond the town on which hangs the high and
+ flat-faced citadel, pierced with many windows, and warmed in the evening
+ light. On the steep hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself as large as
+ a hill. It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic impression.
+ No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common statue; no
+ attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish the monster
+ minutely from the earth out of which he rises, shaking the world. The face
+ of the lion has something of the bold conventionality of Assyrian art. The
+ mane of the lion is left like a shapeless cloud of tempest, as if it might
+ literally be said of him that God had clothed his neck with thunder. Even
+ at this distance the thing looks vast, and in some sense prehistoric. Yet
+ it was carved only a little while ago. It commemorates the fact that this
+ town was never taken by the Germans through all the terrible year, but
+ only laid down its arms at last at the command of its own Government. But
+ the spirit of it has been in this land from the beginning&mdash;the spirit
+ of something defiant and almost defeated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+ thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame, and
+ that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern battle of
+ the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the last sign of
+ France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at bay, the last
+ sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030"></a>
+XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude</h2>
+ <p>
+ Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident, the
+ City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble cut
+ out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris and its
+ history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance and
+ justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure; but it
+ may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of roses is
+ also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others, but quite
+ ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion, they are
+ martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality. For the
+ indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort which
+ charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts; they are
+ torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life with the
+ same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence. The enemies
+ of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay which does not
+ seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which the
+ Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and torment
+ themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves. Thus,
+ when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself, it made a
+ sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is the same from
+ the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola. The old
+ religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth. The new realists
+ torture men morally for a physical truth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain. Its
+ indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an everlasting revolution. It
+ has none of the things which make good Frenchmen love Paris; it has only
+ the things which make unspeakable Englishmen love it. It has the part
+ which is cosmopolitan&mdash;and narrow; not the part which is Parisian&mdash;and
+ universal. You can find there (as commonly happens in modern centres) the
+ worst things of all nations&mdash;the <i>Daily Mail</i> from England, the cheap
+ philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of France, and the drinks of
+ America. But there is no English broad fun, no German kindly ceremony, no
+ American exhilaration, and, above all, no French tradition of fighting for
+ an idea. Though all the boulevards look like Parisian boulevards, though
+ all the shops look like Parisian shops, you cannot look at them steadily
+ for two minutes without feeling the full distance between, let us say,
+ King Leopold and fighters like Clemenceau and Deroulède.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I began
+ to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again; and I had
+ impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of the city. In
+ this tram there were two men talking; one was a little man with a black
+ French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy whiskers, like the
+ financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And about the time that we
+ reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic grew thinner, and the
+ noises more few, I began to hear what they were saying. Though they spoke
+ French quickly, their words were fairly easy to follow, because they were
+ all long words. Anybody can understand long words because they have in
+ them all the lucidity of Latin.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man with the black beard said: &ldquo;It must that we have the Progress.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying: &ldquo;It must also
+ that we have the Consolidation International.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened with some
+ care, and I think I picked up the thread of it. One of the Belgians was a
+ Little Belgian, as we speak of a Little Englander. The other was a Belgian
+ Imperialist, for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be
+ altogether a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire. Being a
+ nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being an empire only
+ means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers was the Imperialist,
+ and he was saying: &ldquo;The science, behold there the new guide of humanity.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And the man with the beard answered him: &ldquo;It does not suffice to have
+ progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment of the
+ human justice.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much too
+ keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard in
+ England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast. Though
+ Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French. Whiskers
+ was great on education, which, it seems, is on the march. All the world
+ goes to make itself instructed. It must that the more instructed enlighten
+ the less instructed. Eh, well then, the European must impose upon the
+ savage the science and the light. Also (apparently) he must impose himself
+ on the savage while he is about it. To-day one travelled quickly. The
+ science had changed all. For our fathers, they were religious, and (what
+ was worse) dead. To-day humanity had electricity to the hand; the machines
+ came from triumphing; all the lines and limits of the globe effaced
+ themselves. Soon there would not be but the great Empires and
+ confederations, guided by the science, always the science.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with the
+ sentiment for human justice had &ldquo;la parole&rdquo; off him in a flash. Without
+ doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments, the ideal,
+ the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself towards Humanity.
+ For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation, what were they in
+ effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the barbarism? The Empires
+ were they not things savage? The Humanity had passed all that; she was now
+ intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all human souls with the sentiments the
+ most delicate and just. Man was become a spirit; the wings pushed....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+ and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it was
+ almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not dream of
+ getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging fascination of
+ this great controversy on Humanity and its recent complete alteration by
+ science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven knows where. I dropped
+ hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on without me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city. On one side of
+ the road was one of those small, thin woods which are common in all
+ countries, but of which, by a coincidence, the mystical painters of
+ Flanders were very fond. The night was closing in with cloudy purple and
+ grey; there was one ribbon of silver, the last rag of the sunset. Through
+ the wood went one little path, and somehow it suggested that it might lead
+ to some sign of life&mdash;there was no other sign of life on the horizon.
+ I went along it, and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight of all
+ those tiny trees. There is something subtle and bewildering about that
+ sort of frail and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems like a
+ bodily barrier; but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a spiritual
+ barrier. It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could not pass a
+ phantom. When I had well lost the last gleam of the high road a curious
+ and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly felt something much more
+ practical and extraordinary&mdash;the absence of humanity: inhuman
+ loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost in my state; but the
+ mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men&mdash;any men; and I felt our
+ awful alliance over all the globe. And at last, when I had walked for what
+ seemed a long time, I saw a light too near the earth to mean anything
+ except the image of God.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door of which was
+ open, but was blocked by a big grey horse, who seemed to prefer to eat
+ with his head inside the sitting-room. I got past him, and found he was
+ being fed by a young man who was sitting down and drinking beer inside,
+ and who saluted me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange tongue.
+ The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I traced at length
+ as belonging to about six small children. Their father was still working
+ in the fields, but their mother rose when I entered. She smiled, but she
+ and all the rest spoke some rude language, Flamand, I suppose; so that we
+ had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched me beer, and pointed
+ out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture to please the children;
+ and as it was a picture of two men hitting each other with swords, it
+ pleased them very much. Then I gave a Belgian penny to each child, for as
+ I said on chance in French, &ldquo;It must be that we have the economic
+ equality.&rdquo; But they had never heard of economic equality, while all
+ Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality, though it is true that
+ they haven&rsquo;t got it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually saw
+ in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying, one that Science
+ had changed all in Humanity, and the other that Humanity was now pushing
+ the wings of the purely intellectual. But for me Humanity was hooked on to
+ an accidental picture. I thought of a low and lonely house in the flats,
+ behind a veil or film of slight trees, a man breaking the ground as men
+ have broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse champing his
+ food within a foot of a child&rsquo;s head, as in the stable where Christ was
+ born.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031"></a>
+XXX. The Little Birds Who Won&rsquo;t Sing</h2>
+ <p>
+ On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that in a few hours I
+ should be in England, my eye fell upon one of the details of Gothic
+ carving of which Flanders is full. I do not know whether the thing is old,
+ though it was certainly knocked about and indecipherable, but at least it
+ was certainly in the style and tradition of the early Middle Ages. It
+ seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say twisting
+ themselves) to certain primary employments. Some seemed to be sailors
+ tugging at ropes; others, I think, were reaping; others were energetically
+ pouring something into something else. This is entirely characteristic of
+ the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth century, perhaps the
+ most purely vigorous time in all history. The great Greeks preferred to
+ carve their gods and heroes doing nothing. Splendid and philosophic as
+ their composure is there is always about it something that marks the
+ master of many slaves. But if there was one thing the early mediaevals
+ liked it was representing people doing something&mdash;hunting or hawking,
+ or rowing boats, or treading grapes, or making shoes, or cooking something
+ in a pot. &ldquo;Quicquid agunt homines, votum, timor, ira voluptas.&rdquo; (I quote
+ from memory.) The Middle Ages is full of that spirit in all its monuments
+ and manuscripts. Chaucer retains it in his jolly insistence on everybody&rsquo;s
+ type of trade and toil. It was the earliest and youngest resurrection of
+ Europe, the time when social order was strengthening, but had not yet
+ become oppressive; the time when religious faiths were strong, but had not
+ yet been exasperated. For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic
+ carving is different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often
+ reining their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever at
+ that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving seems actually a
+ sort of bustle or hubbub in stone. Sometimes one cannot help feeling that
+ the groups actually move and mix, and the whole front of a great cathedral
+ has the hum of a huge hive.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity of which I
+ could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads had very curious
+ heads, and it seemed to me that they had their mouths open. Whether or no
+ this really meant anything or was an accident of nascent art I do not
+ know; but in the course of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that
+ singing was connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+ were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes. I was still
+ thinking about this small problem when I walked along the pier at Ostend;
+ and I heard some sailors uttering a measured shout as they laboured, and I
+ remembered that sailors still sing in chorus while they work, and even
+ sing different songs according to what part of their work they are doing.
+ And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was over, the sight of
+ men working in the English fields reminded me again that there are still
+ songs for harvest and for many agricultural routines. And I suddenly
+ wondered why if this were so it should be quite unknown, for any modern
+ trade to have a ritual poetry. How did people come to chant rude poems
+ while pulling certain ropes or gathering certain fruit, and why did nobody
+ do anything of the kind while producing any of the modern things? Why is a
+ modern newspaper never printed by people singing in chorus? Why do shopmen
+ seldom, if ever, sing?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while auditing
+ and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all the separate things
+ that have to be done in a boat, why are there not songs for all the
+ separate things that have to be done in a bank? As the train from Dover
+ flew through the Kentish gardens, I tried to write a few songs suitable
+ for commercial gentlemen. Thus, the work of bank clerks when casting up
+ columns might begin with a thundering chorus in praise of Simple Addition.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o&rsquo;er. Hear the Stars
+ of Morning shouting: &lsquo;Two and Two are four.&rsquo; Though the creeds and realms
+ are reeling, though the sophists roar, Though we weep and pawn our
+ watches, Two and Two are Four.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There&rsquo;s a run upon the Bank&mdash;Stand away! For the Manager&rsquo;s a crank
+ and the Secretary drank, and the
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ Upper Tooting Bank<br/>
+        Turns to bay!<br/>
+ Stand close: there is a run<br/>
+ On the Bank.<br/>
+ Of our ship, our royal one, let the ringing legend run,<br/>
+ That she fired with every gun<br/>
+        Ere she sank.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine who actually
+ is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions in rhyme to him for use
+ among his colleagues. But he was not very hopeful about the matter. It was
+ not (he assured me) that he underrated the verses, or in any sense
+ lamented their lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an indefinable
+ something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we live that
+ makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks. And I think he must be
+ right; though the matter is very mysterious. I may observe here that I
+ think there must be some mistake in the calculations of the Socialists.
+ They put down all our distress, not to a moral tone, but to the chaos of
+ private enterprise. Now, banks are private; but post-offices are
+ Socialistic: therefore I naturally expected that the post-office would
+ fall into the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of my surprise when the
+ lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing) dismissed the idea
+ with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done. She seemed indeed, to
+ be in a considerably greater state of depression than he. Should any one
+ suppose that this was the effect of the verses themselves, it is only fair
+ to say that the specimen verse of the Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;O&rsquo;er London our letters are shaken like snow,<br/>
+ Our wires o&rsquo;er the world like the thunderbolts go.<br/>
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,<br/>
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully certain it
+ seemed that the most important and typical modern things could not be done
+ with a chorus. One could not, for instance, be a great financier and sing;
+ because the essence of being a great financier is that you keep quiet. You
+ could not even in many modern circles be a public man and sing; because in
+ those circles the essence of being a public man is that you do nearly
+ everything in private. Nobody would imagine a chorus of money-lenders.
+ Every one knows the story of the solicitors&rsquo; corps of volunteers who, when
+ the Colonel on the battlefield cried &ldquo;Charge!&rdquo; all said simultaneously,
+ &ldquo;Six-and-eightpence.&rdquo; Men can sing while charging in a military, but
+ hardly in a legal sense. And at the end of my reflections I had really got
+ no further than the sub-conscious feeling of my friend the bank-clerk&mdash;that
+ there is something spiritually suffocating about our life; not about our
+ laws merely, but about our life. Bank-clerks are without songs, not
+ because they are poor, but because they are sad. Sailors are much poorer.
+ As I passed homewards I passed a little tin building of some religious
+ sort, which was shaken with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own
+ tongue. THEY were singing anyhow; and I had for an instant a fancy I had
+ often had before: that with us the super-human is the only place where you
+ can find the human. Human nature is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032"></a>
+XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy</h2>
+ <p>
+ More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday, a friend
+ walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded with half-packed
+ luggage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You seem to be off on your travels,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Where are you going?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With a strap between my teeth I replied, &ldquo;To Battersea.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The wit of your remark,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;wholly escapes me.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going to Battersea,&rdquo; I repeated, &ldquo;to Battersea viâ Paris, Belfort,
+ Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained simply
+ the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once more I
+ find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise, somewhere
+ in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little island which
+ I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great white cliffs.
+ Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch travellers tell me
+ that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour that somewhere in the
+ heart of it there is a beautiful place called Battersea.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you,&rdquo; said my friend, with an air of
+ intellectual comparison, &ldquo;that this is Battersea?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is quite unnecessary,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;and it is spiritually untrue. I cannot
+ see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or any England. I cannot
+ see that door. I cannot see that chair: because a cloud of sleep and
+ custom has come across my eyes. The only way to get back to them is to go
+ somewhere else; and that is the real object of travel and the real
+ pleasure of holidays. Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see
+ France? Do you suppose that I go to Germany in order to see Germany? I
+ shall enjoy them both; but it is not them that I am seeking. I am seeking
+ Battersea. The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land;
+ it is at last to set foot on one&rsquo;s own country as a foreign land. Now I
+ warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and heavy, and that if you
+ utter that word &lsquo;paradox&rsquo; I shall hurl it at your head. I did not make the
+ world, and I did not make it paradoxical. It is not my fault, it is the
+ truth, that the only way to go to England is to go away from it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But when, after only a month&rsquo;s travelling, I did come back to England, I
+ was startled to find that I had told the exact truth. England did break on
+ me at once beautifully new and beautifully old. To land at Dover is the
+ right way to approach England (most things that are hackneyed are right),
+ for then you see first the full, soft gardens of Kent, which are, perhaps,
+ an exaggeration, but still a typical exaggeration, of the rich rusticity
+ of England. As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with whom I had
+ fallen into conversation felt the same freshness, though for another
+ cause. She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had never yet
+ seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm in that simple and splendid
+ way which is natural to Americans, who are the most idealistic people in
+ the whole world. Their only danger is that the idealist can easily become
+ the idolator. And the American has become so idealistic that he even
+ idealises money. But (to quote a very able writer of American short
+ stories) that is another story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have never been in England before,&rdquo; said the American lady, &ldquo;yet it is
+ so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it for a long time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;So you have,&rdquo; I said; &ldquo;you have been away for three hundred years.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What a lot of ivy you have,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;It covers the churches and it
+ buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it grow like that.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am interested to hear it,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;for I am making a little list of
+ all the things that are really better in England. Even a month on the
+ Continent, combined with intelligence, will teach you that there are many
+ things that are better abroad. All the things that the DAILY MAIL calls
+ English are better abroad. But there are things entirely English and
+ entirely good. Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front gardens,
+ and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom cabs, and
+ cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy and holy
+ custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that Shakespeare
+ began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman or a German. Surely
+ he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a light bursts upon me; for the
+ first time I see the real meaning of Mrs. Gallup and the Great Cipher. It
+ is merely a mistake in the matter of a capital letter. I withdraw my
+ objections; I accept everything; bacon did write Shakespeare.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cannot look at anything but the ivy,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;it looks so
+ comfortable.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many weeks an
+ English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour in which he said
+ that the House of Lords ought to be preserved because it represented
+ something in the nature of permanent public opinion of England, above the
+ ebb and flow of the parties. Now Mr. Balfour is a perfectly sincere
+ patriot, a man who, from his own point of view, thinks long and seriously
+ about the public needs, and he is, moreover, a man of entirely
+ exceptionable intellectual power. But alas, in spite of all this, when I
+ had read that speech I thought with a heavy heart that there was one more
+ thing that I had to add to the list of the specially English things, such
+ as kippers and cricket; I had to add the specially English kind of humbug.
+ In France things are attacked and defended for what they are. The Catholic
+ Church is attacked because it is Catholic, and defended because it is
+ Catholic. The Republic is defended because it is Republican, and attacked
+ because it is Republican. But here is the ablest of English politicians
+ consoling everybody by telling them that the House of Lords is not really
+ the House of Lords, but something quite different, that the foolish
+ accidental peers whom he meets every night are in some mysterious way
+ experts upon the psychology of the democracy; that if you want to know
+ what the very poor want you must ask the very rich, and that if you want
+ the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it at Hatfield. If the
+ Conservative defender of the House of Lords were a logical French
+ politician he would simply be a liar. But being an English politician he
+ is simply a poet. The English love of believing that all is as it should
+ be, the English optimism combined with the strong English imagination, is
+ too much even for the obvious facts. In a cold, scientific sense, of
+ course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly all the Lords who are not Lords by
+ accident are Lords by bribery. He knows, and (as Mr. Belloc excellently
+ said) everybody in Parliament knows the very names of the peers who have
+ purchased their peerages. But the glamour of comfort, the pleasure of
+ reassuring himself and reassuring others, is too strong for this original
+ knowledge; at last it fades from him, and he sincerely and earnestly calls
+ on Englishmen to join with him in admiring an august and public-spirited
+ Senate, having wholly forgotten that the Senate really consists of idiots
+ whom he has himself despised; and adventurers whom he has himself
+ ennobled.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick,&rdquo; said the American lady, &ldquo;it
+ seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical thing in
+ England.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is very beautiful,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;and, as you say, it is very English.
+ Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England, wrote one of
+ his rare poems about the beauty of ivy. Yes, by all means let us admire
+ the ivy, so deep, so warm, so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque
+ tenderness. Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+ that it may not kill the tree.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033"></a>
+XXXII. The Travellers in State</h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was a train
+ going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it. And while I
+ was running along the train (amid general admiration) I noticed that there
+ were a quite peculiar and unusual number of carriages marked &ldquo;Engaged.&rdquo; On
+ five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages was pasted the little notice: at
+ five, six, seven, eight, nine windows were big bland men staring out in
+ the conscious pride of possession. Their bodies seemed more than usually
+ impenetrable, their faces more than usual placid. It could not be the
+ Derby, if only for the minor reasons that it was the opposite direction
+ and the wrong day. It could hardly be the King. It could hardly be the
+ French President. For, though these distinguished persons naturally like
+ to be private for three hours, they are at least public for three minutes.
+ A crowd can gather to see them step into the train; and there was no crowd
+ here, or any police ceremonial.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train than a
+ bricklayer&rsquo;s beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious and delicate than the
+ King&rsquo;s own suite? Who were these that were larger than a mob, yet more
+ mysterious than a monarch? Was it possible that instead of our Royal House
+ visiting the Tsar, he was really visiting us? Or does the House of Lords
+ have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train slowed down at
+ some station in the direction of Cambridge. Then the large, impenetrable
+ men got out, and after them got out the distinguished holders of the
+ engaged seats. They were all dressed decorously in one colour; they had
+ neatly cropped hair; and they were chained together.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our eyes met.
+ He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt, a native
+ of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there, such as a
+ journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make conversation I
+ said I wondered where the convicts were going. His mouth twitched with the
+ instinctive irony of our poor, and he said: &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t s&rsquo;pose they&rsquo;re goin&rsquo;
+ on an &rsquo;oliday at the seaside with little spades and pails.&rdquo; I was
+ naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein of literary invention, I
+ suggested that perhaps dons were taken down to Cambridge chained together
+ like this. And as he lived in Cambridge, and had seen several dons, he was
+ pleased with such a scheme. Then when we had ceased to laugh, we suddenly
+ became quite silent; and the bleak, grey eyes of the little man grew
+ sadder and emptier than an open sea. I knew what he was thinking, because
+ I was thinking the same, because all modern sophists are only sophists,
+ and there is such a thing as mankind. Then at last (and it fell in as
+ exactly as the right last note of a tune one is trying to remember) he
+ said: &ldquo;Well, I s&rsquo;pose we &rsquo;ave to do it.&rdquo; And in those three things, his
+ first speech and his silence and his second speech, there were all the
+ three great fundamental facts of the English democracy, its profound sense
+ of humour, its profound sense of pathos, and its profound sense of
+ helplessness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+ (like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out. For every
+ practical purpose of a political state, for every practical purpose of a
+ tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted. At a tea-party it is
+ equally obvious that he that exalteth himself must be abased, if possible
+ without bodily violence. Now people talk of democracy as being coarse and
+ turbulent: it is a self-evident error in mere history. Aristocracy is the
+ thing that is always coarse and turbulent: for it means appealing to the
+ self-confident people. Democracy means appealing to the different people.
+ Democracy means getting those people to vote who would never have the
+ cheek to govern: and (according to Christian ethics) the precise people
+ who ought to govern are the people who have not the cheek to do it. There
+ is a strong example of this truth in my friend in the train. The only two
+ types we hear of in this argument about crime and punishment are two very
+ rare and abnormal types.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no problem
+ at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything: as if one need only
+ pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible. This mere belief in bodily
+ humanitarianism is not sentimental; it is simply snobbish. For if comfort
+ gives men virtue, the comfortable classes ought to be virtuous&mdash;which
+ is absurd. Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and more watery type
+ of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who says, with a sort of
+ splutter, &ldquo;Flog the brutes!&rdquo; or who tells you with innocent obscenity
+ &ldquo;what he would do&rdquo; with a certain man&mdash;always supposing the man&rsquo;s
+ hands were tied.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak and
+ unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental humanitarian
+ and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears in the modern babel. Yet
+ you very rarely meet either of them in a train. You never meet anyone else
+ in a controversy. The man you meet in a train is like this man that I met:
+ he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually doubtful. So far from
+ luxuriating in the loathsome things that could be &ldquo;done&rdquo; to criminals, he
+ feels bitterly how much better it would be if nothing need be done. But
+ something must be done. &ldquo;I s&rsquo;pose we &rsquo;ave to do it.&rdquo; In short, he is
+ simply a sane man, and of a sane man there is only one safe definition. He
+ is a man who can have tragedy in his heart and comedy in his head.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem of the proper
+ treatment of criminals is that both parties discuss the matter without any
+ direct human feeling. The denouncers of wrong are as cold as the
+ organisers of wrong. Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging arranged in our
+ modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its scientific paraphernalia, the
+ photographing, the medical attendance, prove that it goes to the last foul
+ limit of the boot and rack. The cat is simply the rack without any of its
+ intellectual reasons. Holding this view strongly, I open the ordinary
+ humanitarian books or papers and I find a phrase like this, &ldquo;The lash is a
+ relic of barbarism.&rdquo; So is the plough. So is the fishing net. So is the
+ horn or the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an inexpressibly feeble
+ phrase for anything one wants to attack&mdash;a relic of barbarism! It is
+ as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow, and we said that his
+ clothes were not quite in the latest fashion. There is nothing
+ particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism. Man is a relic of
+ barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is simply
+ a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called a relic
+ of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate when
+ everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was detailed
+ exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous sixteenth
+ century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years before the
+ Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this day. This is,
+ first and last, the frightful thing we must remember. In so far as we grow
+ instructed and refined we are not (in any sense whatever) naturally moving
+ away from torture. We may be moving towards torture. We must know what we
+ are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous secret cruelty which has
+ crowned every historic civilisation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields. They have
+ taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they have done with them.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034"></a>
+XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station</h2>
+ <p>
+ A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not think so;
+ he did not think so because he himself was even more modern than the
+ railway station. He did not think so because he was himself feverish,
+ irritable, and snorting like an engine. He could not value the ancient
+ silence of the railway station.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;In a railway station,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;you are in a hurry, and therefore,
+ miserable&rdquo;; but you need not be either unless you are as modern as Ruskin.
+ The true philosopher does not think of coming just in time for his train
+ except as a bet or a joke.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be late for
+ the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway station much of
+ the quietude and consolation of a cathedral. It has many of the
+ characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building; it has vast arches,
+ void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all, it has recurrence or ritual.
+ It is dedicated to the celebration of water and fire the two prime
+ elements of all human ceremonial. Lastly, a station resembles the old
+ religions rather than the new religions in this point, that people go
+ there. In connection with this it should also be remembered that all
+ popular places, all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain the
+ best routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or machines
+ used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly or
+ completely by common people as they are by fashionable people. Ruskin
+ could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the Underground
+ Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations. The great palaces
+ of pleasure which the rich build in London all have brazen and vulgar
+ names. Their names are either snobbish, like the Hotel Cecil, or (worse
+ still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole. But when I go in a
+ third-class carriage from the nearest circle station to Battersea to the
+ nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names of the stations are
+ one long litany of solemn and saintly memories. Leaving Victoria I come to
+ a park belonging especially to St. James the Apostle; thence I go to
+ Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes to the awful Abbey; Charing
+ Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom; the next station is called a
+ Temple; and Blackfriars remembers the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million feet of the
+ crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear down old things by sheer
+ walking. But the educated kick them down out of sheer culture.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty railway station,
+ where I have no business of any kind. I have extracted a vast number of
+ chocolates from automatic machines; I have obtained cigarettes, toffee,
+ scent, and other things that I dislike by the same machinery; I have
+ weighed myself, with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+ healthiness of popular things, but of their essential antiquity and
+ permanence, is still in possession of my mind. I wander up to the
+ bookstall, and my faith survives even the wild spectacle of modern
+ literature and journalism. Even in the crudest and most clamorous aspects
+ of the newspaper world I still prefer the popular to the proud and
+ fastidious. If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and taking
+ in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should certainly
+ cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL. Even mere bigness
+ preached in a frivolous way is not so irritating as mere meanness preached
+ in a big and solemn way. People buy the DAILY MAIL, but they do not
+ believe in it. They do believe in the TIMES, and (apparently) they do not
+ buy it. But the more the output of paper upon the modern world is actually
+ studied, the more it will be found to be in all its essentials ancient and
+ human, like the name of Charing Cross. Linger for two or three hours at a
+ station bookstall (as I am doing), and you will find that it gradually
+ takes on the grandeur and historic allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian
+ Library. The novelty is all superficial; the tradition is all interior and
+ profound. The DAILY MAIL has new editions, but never a new idea.
+ Everything in a newspaper that is not the old human love of altar or
+ fatherland is the old human love of gossip. Modern writers have often made
+ game of the old chronicles because they chiefly record accidents and
+ prodigies; a church struck by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do
+ not seem to realise that this old barbaric history is the same as new
+ democratic journalism. It is not that the savage chronicle has
+ disappeared. It is merely that the savage chronicle now appears every
+ morning.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+ caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me. On the
+ outside of a book I saw written in large letters, &ldquo;Get On or Get Out.&rdquo; The
+ title of the book recalled to me with a sudden revolt and reaction all
+ that does seem unquestionably new and nasty; it reminded me that there was
+ in the world of to-day that utterly idiotic thing, a worship of success; a
+ thing that only means surpassing anybody in anything; a thing that may
+ mean being the most successful person in running away from a battle; a
+ thing that may mean being the most successfully sleepy of the whole row of
+ sleeping men. When I saw those words the silence and sanctity of the
+ railway station were for the moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at
+ any rate something anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate,
+ means the most disgusting individualism of this individualistic world. In
+ the fury of my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book, thereby
+ ensuring that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it prepared to
+ find some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be an exception to
+ the general silence and sanctity of the railway station. I was prepared to
+ find something in the book that was as infamous as its title.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding to the furious
+ decisiveness of the remarks on the cover. After reading it carefully I
+ could not discover whether I was really to get on or to get out; but I had
+ a vague feeling that I should prefer to get out. A considerable part of
+ the book, particularly towards the end, was concerned with a detailed
+ description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte. Undoubtedly Napoleon got
+ on. He also got out. But I could not discover in any way how the details
+ of his life given here were supposed to help a person aiming at success.
+ One anecdote described how Napoleon always wiped his pen on his
+ knee-breeches. I suppose the moral is: always wipe your pen on your
+ knee-breeches, and you will win the battle of Wagram. Another story told
+ that he let loose a gazelle among the ladies of his Court. Clearly the
+ brutal practical inference is&mdash;loose a gazelle among the ladies of
+ your acquaintance, and you will be Emperor of the French. Get on with a
+ gazelle or get out. The book entirely reconciled me to the soft twilight
+ of the station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a symbolic division
+ which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are vertebrates; they
+ have their softness on the surface and their toughness in the middle. But
+ these modern cowards are all crustaceans; their hardness is all on the
+ cover and their softness is inside. But the softness is there; everything
+ in this twilight temple is soft.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035"></a>
+XXXIV. The Diabolist</h2>
+ <p>
+ Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element of truth.
+ Things that really happened have been mentioned, such as meeting President
+ Kruger or being thrown out of a cab. What I have now to relate really
+ happened; yet there was no element in it of practical politics or of
+ personal danger. It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with
+ another man. But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible
+ thing that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long ago
+ that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue, only of its
+ main questions and answers; but there is one sentence in it for which I
+ can answer absolutely and word for word. It was a sentence so awful that I
+ could not forget it if I would. It was the last sentence spoken; and it
+ was not spoken to me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school. An art school
+ is different from almost all other schools or colleges in this respect:
+ that, being of new and crude creation and of lax discipline, it presents a
+ specially strong contrast between the industrious and the idle. People at
+ an art school either do an atrocious amount of work or do no work at all.
+ I belonged, along with other charming people, to the latter class; and
+ this threw me often into the society of men who were very different from
+ myself, and who were idle for reasons very different from mine. I was idle
+ because I was very much occupied; I was engaged about that time in
+ discovering, to my own extreme and lasting astonishment, that I was not an
+ atheist. But there were others also at loose ends who were engaged in
+ discovering what Carlyle called (I think with needless delicacy) the fact
+ that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+ representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are two
+ very curious things which the critic of human life may observe. The first
+ is the fact that there is one real difference between men and women; that
+ women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk in threes. The
+ second is that when you find (as you often do) three young cads and idiots
+ going about together and getting drunk together every day you generally
+ find that one of the three cads and idiots is (for some extraordinary
+ reason) not a cad and not an idiot. In these small groups devoted to a
+ drivelling dissipation there is almost always one man who seems to have
+ condescended to his company; one man who, while he can talk a foul
+ triviality with his fellows, can also talk politics with a Socialist, or
+ philosophy with a Catholic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange, perhaps,
+ that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger still, perhaps,
+ that he liked my society. For hours of the day he would talk with me about
+ Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours of the night he would go where I
+ have no wish to follow him, even in speculation. He was a man with a long,
+ ironical face, and close and red hair; he was by class a gentleman, and
+ could walk like one, but preferred, for some reason, to walk like a groom
+ carrying two pails. He looked like a sort of Super-jockey; as if some
+ archangel had gone on the Turf. And I shall never forget the half-hour in
+ which he and I argued about real things for the first and the last time.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Along the front of the big building of which our school was a part ran a
+ huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think, than those that lead up to St.
+ Paul&rsquo;s Cathedral. On a black wintry evening he and I were wandering on
+ these cold heights, which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the stars.
+ The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning and blowing
+ fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning something in the grounds,
+ and from time to time the red sparks went whirling past us like a swarm of
+ scarlet insects in the dark. Above us also it was gloom; but if one stared
+ long enough at that upper darkness, one saw vertical stripes of grey in
+ the black and then became conscious of the colossal façade of the Doric
+ building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if Heaven were still filled
+ with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said it, I
+ really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it I knew it
+ to be literally true. And the process had been so long and full that I
+ answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am becoming orthodox,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;because I have come, rightly or
+ wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief that
+ heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than a crime, for
+ an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a pirate. For an
+ Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches piracy disinterestedly
+ and without an adequate salary. A Free Lover is worse than a profligate.
+ For a profligate is serious and reckless even in his shortest love; while
+ a Free Lover is cautious and irresponsible even in his longest devotion. I
+ hate modern doubt because it is dangerous.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You mean dangerous to morality,&rdquo; he said in a voice of wonderful
+ gentleness. &ldquo;I expect you are right. But why do you care about morality?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had a
+ trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light of the
+ bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights. His long chin and high
+ cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath; so that he looked like
+ a fiend staring down into the flaming pit. I had an unmeaning sense of
+ being tempted in a wilderness; and even as I paused a burst of red sparks
+ broke past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Aren&rsquo;t those sparks splendid?&rdquo; I said.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; he replied.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That is all that I ask you to admit,&rdquo; said I. &ldquo;Give me those few red
+ specks and I will deduce Christian morality. Once I thought like you, that
+ one&rsquo;s pleasure in a flying spark was a thing that could come and go with
+ that spark. Once I thought that the delight was as free as the fire. Once
+ I thought that red star we see was alone in space. But now I know that the
+ red star is only on the apex of an invisible pyramid of virtues. That red
+ fire is only the flower on a stalk of living habits, which you cannot see.
+ Only because your mother made you say &lsquo;Thank you&rsquo; for a bun are you now
+ able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars of an instant or for the
+ white stars of all time. Only because you were humble before fireworks on
+ the fifth of November do you now enjoy any fireworks that you chance to
+ see. You only like them being red because you were told about the blood of
+ the martyrs; you only like them being bright because brightness is a
+ glory. That flame flowered out of virtues, and it will fade with virtues.
+ Seduce a woman, and that spark will be less bright. Shed blood, and that
+ spark will be less red. Be really bad, and they will be to you like the
+ spots on a wall-paper.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of his
+ soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion produced
+ humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both. He only said,
+ &ldquo;But shall I not find in evil a life of its own? Granted that for every
+ woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out: will not the expanding
+ pleasure of ruin...&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you see that fire?&rdquo; I asked. &ldquo;If we had a real fighting democracy,
+ some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perhaps,&rdquo; he said, in his tired, fair way. &ldquo;Only what you call evil I
+ call good.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted the steps
+ swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find my hat in the
+ low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his voice again, but the
+ words were inaudible. I stopped, startled: then I heard the voice of one
+ of the vilest of his associates saying, &ldquo;Nobody can possibly know.&rdquo; And
+ then I heard those two or three words which I remember in every syllable
+ and cannot forget. I heard the Diabolist say, &ldquo;I tell you I have done
+ everything else. If I do that I shan&rsquo;t know the difference between right
+ and wrong.&rdquo; I rushed out without daring to pause; and as I passed the fire
+ I did not know whether it was hell or the furious love of God.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think, that he
+ committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure, not with tools
+ of pain. God help him, I know the road he went; but I have never known, or
+ even dared to think, what was that place at which he stopped and
+ refrained.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036"></a>
+XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country</h2>
+ <p>
+ Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is really
+ quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven or Fairyland or
+ whatever I called it, was immediately behind my own back, and that this
+ was why I could never manage to see it, however often I twisted and turned
+ to take it by surprise. I had a notion of a man perpetually spinning round
+ on one foot like a teetotum in the effort to find that world behind his
+ back which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is why the world goes
+ round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look over its shoulder and
+ catch up the world which always escapes it, yet without which it cannot be
+ itself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive of that
+ which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is in some
+ strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars; of the
+ terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak. But poetry and
+ religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost menacing closeness
+ of the things with which they are concerned. Always the Kingdom of Heaven
+ is &ldquo;At Hand&rdquo;; and Looking-glass Land is only through the looking-glass. So
+ I for one should never be astonished if the next twist of a street led me
+ to the heart of that maze in which all the mystics are lost. I should not
+ be at all surprised if I turned one corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet
+ queerer-looking lamp; I should not be surprised if I turned a third corner
+ and found myself in Elfland.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day at
+ something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street and found
+ myself in England.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation. In the
+ darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there is one thing that
+ should always be remembered about the very nature of our country. It may
+ be shortly stated by saying that England is not such a fool as it looks.
+ The types of England, the externals of England, always misrepresent the
+ country. England is an oligarchical country, and it prefers that its
+ oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse than
+ the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or almost all
+ other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners. Our countrymen
+ probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher places of the national
+ life. It may be a strange sight to see the blind leading the blind; but
+ England provides a stranger. England shows us the blind leading the people
+ who can see. And this again is an under-statement of the case. For the
+ English political aristocrats not only speak worse than many other people;
+ they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance of statesmen is like the
+ ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected thing. If you have the
+ good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you will be constantly
+ startled with his saying quite intelligent things. It makes one nervous at
+ first. And I have never been sufficiently intimate with such a man to ask
+ him why it was a rule of his life in Parliament to appear sillier than he
+ was.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself; he
+ votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one. A man ought to
+ vote with the whole of himself as he worships or gets married. A man ought
+ to vote with his head and heart, his soul and stomach, his eye for faces
+ and his ear for music; also (when sufficiently provoked) with his hands
+ and feet. If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of it
+ should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs, they
+ should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross. But as it is, the
+ difficulty with English democracy at all elections is that it is something
+ less than itself. The question is not so much whether only a minority of
+ the electorate votes. The point is that only a minority of the voter
+ votes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+ Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak I found this
+ to be so especially of that old intelligent middle class which I had
+ imagined had almost vanished from the world. It seemed to me that all the
+ main representatives of the middle class had gone off in one direction or
+ in the other; they had either set out in pursuit of the Smart Set or they
+ had set out in pursuit of the Simple Life. I cannot say which I dislike
+ more myself; the people in question are welcome to have either of them,
+ or, as is more likely, to have both, in hideous alternations of disease
+ and cure. But all the prominent men who plainly represent the middle class
+ have adopted either the single eye-glass of Mr. Chamberlain or the single
+ eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+ but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads. It was serious
+ about politics; and when it spoke in public it committed the solecism of
+ trying to speak well. I thought that this old earnest political England
+ had practically disappeared. And as I say, I took one turn out of Fleet
+ Street and I found a room full of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The club was
+ a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the ne&rsquo;er-do-weel
+ was virile. But all these things by themselves might be merely archaism.
+ The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all the hubbub, the
+ sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth century. The members
+ of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet there was not one speech
+ which gave me that jar of unreality which I often have in listening to the
+ ablest men uttering my own opinion. The Toryism of this club was like the
+ Toryism of Johnson, a Toryism that could use humour and appealed to
+ humanity. The democracy of this club was like the democracy of Wilkes, a
+ democracy that can speak epigrams and fight duels; a democracy that can
+ face things out and endure slander; the democracy of Wilkes, or, rather,
+ the democracy of Fox.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers. Each man
+ speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as well as he could from
+ sheer fury against the other man. This is the greatest of our modern
+ descents, that nowadays a man does not become more rhetorical as he
+ becomes more sincere. An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got really
+ and honestly furious, looked for big words with which to crush his
+ adversary. The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with. He
+ looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech the rhetoric
+ is put into the merely formal part, the opening to which nobody listens.
+ But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate, or one of the harder kind of
+ Socialists, becomes really sincere, he becomes Cockney. &ldquo;The destiny of
+ the Empire,&rdquo; or &ldquo;The destiny of humanity,&rdquo; do well enough for mere
+ ornamental preliminaries, but when the man becomes angry and honest, then
+ it is a snarl, &ldquo;Where do we come in?&rdquo; or &ldquo;It&rsquo;s your money they want.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different; they were
+ quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet quivering with
+ passion, and tried to destroy his opponent, not with sniggering, but
+ actually with eloquence. I was arguing with them about Home Rule; at the
+ end I told them why the English aristocracy really disliked an Irish
+ Parliament; because it would be like their club.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I saw
+ pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London was rising
+ against something that London had hardly heard of. Then I suddenly saw, as
+ in one obvious picture, that the modern world is an immense and tumultuous
+ ocean, full of monstrous and living things. And I saw that across the top
+ of it is spread a thin, a very thin, sheet of ice, of wicked wealth and of
+ lying journalism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I heard it
+ crack.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037"></a>
+XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story</h2>
+ <p>
+ I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read it through
+ very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come to the conclusion
+ that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read it through very
+ carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet. The image and the idea
+ of it clung to me through a great part of my boyhood; I may have dreamt it
+ before I could talk; or told it to myself before I could read; or read it
+ before I could remember. On the whole, however, I am certain that I did
+ not read it, for children have very clear memories about things like that;
+ and of the books which I was really fond I can still remember, not only
+ the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position of the printed words
+ on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline to the opinion that it
+ happened to me before I was born.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages of the
+ atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me, for the sake of
+ argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch restaurants in the
+ City where men take their food so fast that it has none of the quality of
+ food, and take their half-hour&rsquo;s vacation so fast that it has none of the
+ qualities of leisure; to hurry through one&rsquo;s leisure is the most
+ unbusiness-like of actions. They all wore tall shiny hats as if they could
+ not lose an instant even to hang them on a peg, and they all had one eye a
+ little off, hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In short, they were
+ the slaves of the modern bondage, you could hear their fetters clanking.
+ Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest chain ever tied to a man&mdash;it
+ is called a watch-chain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man who
+ almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue. He was like all the
+ other men in dress, yet he was startlingly opposite to them in all manner.
+ He wore a high shiny hat and a long frock coat, but he wore them as such
+ solemn things were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if it were a
+ mitre, and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high priest. He not
+ only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed (such was his stateliness)
+ almost to ask permission of the hat for doing so, and to apologise to the
+ peg for making use of it. When he had sat down on a wooden chair with the
+ air of one considering its feelings and given a sort of slight stoop or
+ bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an altar, I could not help
+ some comment springing to my lips. For the man was a big, sanguine-faced,
+ prosperous-looking man, and yet he treated everything with a care that
+ almost amounted to nervousness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said, &ldquo;This
+ furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat it much too
+ carelessly.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed as his was
+ fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him ordinary as he entered,
+ save for his strange, cautious manner; but if the other people had seen
+ him then they would have screamed and emptied the room. They did not see
+ him, and they went on making a clatter with their forks, and a murmur with
+ their conversation. But the man&rsquo;s face was the face of a maniac.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Did you mean anything particular by that remark?&rdquo; he asked at last, and
+ the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nothing whatever,&rdquo; I answered. &ldquo;One does not mean anything here; it
+ spoils people&rsquo;s digestions.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief; and
+ yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I thought perhaps,&rdquo; he said in a low voice, &ldquo;that another of them had
+ gone wrong.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If you mean another digestion gone wrong,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I never heard of one
+ here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire, and the other
+ organs are in an equally bad way.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, I mean another street gone wrong,&rdquo; and he said heavily and quietly,
+ &ldquo;but as I suppose that doesn&rsquo;t explain much to you, I think I shall have
+ to tell you the story. I do so with all the less responsibility, because I
+ know you won&rsquo;t believe it. For forty years of my life I invariably left my
+ office, which is in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the afternoon,
+ taking with me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the left hand.
+ For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the side office
+ door, walked down the street on the left-hand side, took the first turning
+ to the left and the third to the right, from where I bought an evening
+ paper, followed the road on the right-hand side round two obtuse angles,
+ and came out just outside a Metropolitan station, where I took a train
+ home. For forty years two months and four days I fulfilled this course by
+ accumulated habit: it was not a long street that I traversed, and it took
+ me about four and a half minutes to do it. After forty years two months
+ and four days, on the fifth day I went out in the same manner, with my
+ umbrella in the right hand and my bag in the left, and I began to notice
+ that walking along the familiar street tired me somewhat more than usual;
+ and when I turned it I was convinced that I had turned down the wrong one.
+ For now the street shot up quite a steep slant, such as one only sees in
+ the hilly parts of London, and in this part there were no hills at all.
+ Yet it was not the wrong street; the name written on it was the same; the
+ shuttered shops were the same; the lamp-posts and the whole look of the
+ perspective was the same; only it was tilted upwards like a lid.
+ Forgetting any trouble about breathlessness or fatigue I ran furiously
+ forward, and reached the second of my accustomed turnings, which ought to
+ bring me almost within sight of the station. And as I turned that corner I
+ nearly fell on the pavement. For now the street went up straight in front
+ of my face like a steep staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not
+ for miles round that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill.
+ And this was a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole street had
+ lifted itself like a single wave, and yet every speck and detail of it was
+ the same, and I saw in the high distance, as at the top of an Alpine pass,
+ picked out in pink letters the name over my paper shop.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a part
+ of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses. I had, I
+ know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long iron bridge in empty
+ space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up the iron trap of a coal-hole.
+ Looking down through it I saw empty space and the stairs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+ apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+ gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was in
+ shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing so
+ perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world. And the
+ stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought to be endured by
+ the eyes of men.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;If you are a kind angel,&rsquo; I said, &lsquo;or a wise devil, or have anything in
+ common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of devils.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;After a long silence he said, &lsquo;What do you say that it is?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;It is Bumpton Street, of course,&rsquo; I snapped. &lsquo;It goes to Oldgate
+ Station.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Yes,&rsquo; he admitted gravely; &lsquo;it goes there sometimes. Just now, however,
+ it is going to heaven.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;To heaven?&rsquo; I said. &lsquo;Why?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;It is going to heaven for justice,&rsquo; he replied. &lsquo;You must have treated
+ it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+ by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked and
+ also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women&mdash;everybody does.
+ But you can&rsquo;t neglect women&mdash;I defy you to. At the same time, you can
+ neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the State so
+ long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no horse, no
+ dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and yet have less
+ than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have worked this street
+ to death, and yet you have never remembered its existence. If you had a
+ healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would have hung this street with
+ garlands and given it the name of a god. Then it would have gone quietly.
+ But at last the street has grown tired of your tireless insolence; and it
+ is bucking and rearing its head to heaven. Have you never sat on a bucking
+ horse?&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me to be
+ exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven. But in a
+ moment my sanity returned, and I said, &lsquo;But this is all nonsense. Streets
+ go to the place they have to go. A street must always go to its end.&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Why do you think so of a street?&rsquo; he asked, standing very still.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Because I have always seen it do the same thing,&rsquo; I replied, in
+ reasonable anger. &lsquo;Day after day, year after year, it has always gone to
+ Oldgate Station; day after...&rsquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury of the road in
+ revolt.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;And you?&rsquo; he cried terribly. &lsquo;What do you think the road thinks of you?
+ Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive? Day after day, year
+ after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station....&rsquo; Since then I have
+ respected the things called inanimate.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in the restaurant
+ withdrew.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038"></a>
+XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts</h2>
+ <p>
+ Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can get
+ for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun, the moon, the
+ earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles. You can get them
+ for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing, which I am not
+ allowed to mention in this paper, and of which the lowest price is a penny
+ halfpenny. But the general principle will be at once apparent. In the
+ street behind me, for instance, you can now get a ride on an electric tram
+ for a halfpenny. To be on an electric tram is to be on a flying castle in
+ a fairy tale. You can get quite a large number of brightly coloured sweets
+ for a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of reading this article for a
+ halfpenny; along, of course, with other and irrelevant matter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array of valuable
+ things you can get at a halfpenny each you should do as I was doing last
+ night. I was gluing my nose against the glass of a very small and dimly
+ lit toy shop in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets of
+ Battersea. But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a child
+ once said to me) with all the colours God ever made. Those toys of the
+ poor were like the children who buy them; they were all dirty; but they
+ were all bright. For my part, I think brightness more important than
+ cleanliness; since the first is of the soul, and the second of the body.
+ You must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion in the
+ modern world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses, at
+ small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red Noah&rsquo;s arks, I
+ must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance. That lit shop-window
+ became like the brilliantly lit stage when one is watching some highly
+ coloured comedy. I forgot the grey houses and the grimy people behind me
+ as one forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds at a theatre. It
+ seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were small, not because
+ they were toys, but because they were objects far away. The green omnibus
+ was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater omnibus, passing across some
+ huge desert on its ordinary way to Bayswater. The blue elephant was no
+ longer blue with paint; he was blue with distance. The black doll was
+ really a negro relieved against passionate tropic foliage in the land
+ where every weed is flaming and only man is black. The red Noah&rsquo;s ark was
+ really the enormous ship of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen
+ sea, red in the first morning of hope.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction, such
+ brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the face of
+ one&rsquo;s own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles or moustaches.
+ They are commonly marked by the two signs of the slowness of their growth
+ and the suddenness of their termination. The return to real thinking is
+ often as abrupt as bumping into a man. Very often indeed (in my case) it
+ is bumping into a man. But in any case the awakening is always emphatic
+ and, generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in this case, I did
+ come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness that I was, after
+ all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop; but in some strange way
+ the mental cure did not seem to be final. There was still in my mind an
+ unmanageable something that told me that I had strayed into some odd
+ atmosphere, or that I had already done some odd thing. I felt as if I had
+ worked a miracle or committed a sin. It was as if I had at any rate,
+ stepped across some border in the soul.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop and
+ tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old and broken,
+ with confused white hair covering his head and half his face, hair so
+ startlingly white that it looked almost artificial. Yet though he was
+ senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering in his eyes; he
+ looked rather as if he were gradually falling asleep in a not unkindly
+ decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers, but when I put down the money he
+ did not at first seem to see it; then he blinked at it feebly, and then he
+ pushed it feebly away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, no,&rdquo; he said vaguely. &ldquo;I never have. I never have. We are rather
+ old-fashioned here.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not taking money,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;seems to me more like an uncommonly new
+ fashion than an old one.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I never have,&rdquo; said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose; &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve
+ always given presents. I&rsquo;m too old to stop.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good heavens!&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;What can you mean? Why, you might be Father
+ Christmas.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am Father Christmas,&rdquo; he said apologetically, and blew his nose again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside. At any
+ rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+ shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street; I
+ might have strayed into some new and sunless world. But something had cut
+ the chords of common sense, and I could not feel even surprise except
+ sleepily. Something made me say, &ldquo;You look ill, Father Christmas.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am dying,&rdquo; he said.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it. They seem
+ to object to me on such curious and inconsistent sort of grounds, these
+ scientific men, and these innovators. They say that I give people
+ superstitions and make them too visionary; they say I give people sausages
+ and make them too coarse. They say my heavenly parts are too heavenly;
+ they say my earthly parts are too earthly; I don&rsquo;t know what they want,
+ I&rsquo;m sure. How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly things too
+ earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly? I don&rsquo;t understand. But I
+ understand one thing well enough. These modern people are living and I am
+ dead.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You may be dead,&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;You ought to know. But as for what they are
+ doing, do not call it living.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected to be
+ unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few seconds when, in the
+ utter stillness, I distinctly heard a very rapid step coming nearer and
+ nearer along the street. The next moment a figure flung itself into the
+ shop and stood framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted
+ back as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons, a
+ gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat. He had
+ large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor; he had a
+ pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the shop and the old
+ man in a look that seemed literally a flash and uttered the exclamation of
+ a man utterly staggered.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good lord!&rdquo; he cried out; &ldquo;it can&rsquo;t be you! It isn&rsquo;t you! I came to ask
+ where your grave was.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;m not dead yet, Mr. Dickens,&rdquo; said the old gentleman, with a feeble
+ smile; &ldquo;but I&rsquo;m dying,&rdquo; he hastened to add reassuringly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But, dash it all, you were dying in my time,&rdquo; said Mr. Charles Dickens
+ with animation; &ldquo;and you don&rsquo;t look a day older.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve felt like this for a long time,&rdquo; said Father Christmas.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door into the
+ darkness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Dick,&rdquo; he roared at the top of his voice; &ldquo;he&rsquo;s still alive.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+ full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his flushed
+ face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne. He carried his head
+ well back like a soldier, and his hot face had even a look of arrogance,
+ which was suddenly contradicted by his eyes, which were literally as
+ humble as a dog&rsquo;s. His sword made a great clatter, as if the shop were too
+ small for it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Indeed,&rdquo; said Sir Richard Steele, &ldquo;&rsquo;tis a most prodigious matter, for the
+ man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley and his Christmas
+ Day.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker. It seemed to be filled
+ with newcomers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It hath ever been understood,&rdquo; said a burly man, who carried his head
+ humorously and obstinately a little on one side&mdash;I think he was Ben
+ Jonson&mdash;&ldquo;It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King
+ James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were fallen
+ sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most surely was no
+ lustier when I knew him than now.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in some
+ mixed Norman French, &ldquo;But I saw the man dying.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have felt like this a long time,&rdquo; said Father Christmas, in his feeble
+ way again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Since when?&rdquo; he asked. &ldquo;Since you were born?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. &ldquo;I have been
+ always dying.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to
+ rise.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I understand it now,&rdquo; he cried, &ldquo;you will never die.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039"></a>
+XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town</h2>
+ <p>
+ My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection
+ for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that we
+ almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing in
+ wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the Cathedral
+ tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem, heard the bell
+ which told them they were not too late. But we took as much pleasure in
+ the people, in the little boys with open, flat Flemish faces and fur
+ collars round their necks, making them look like burgomasters; or the
+ women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and
+ mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late
+ mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little
+ tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one
+ corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got into
+ the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and their
+ vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and the official
+ came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place we should get to if
+ we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us
+ (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism)
+ where we wanted to go.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question was
+ whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great deal of
+ international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the Flemish and we
+ in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would take us to a place
+ which I have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded like
+ the word &ldquo;Waterloo&rdquo; pronounced by an intoxicated patriot; I think it was
+ Waerlowe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from
+ boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field of
+ Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was in quite a
+ different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads, with one cottage at the
+ corner, a perspective of tall trees like Hobbema&rsquo;s &ldquo;Avenue,&rdquo; and beyond
+ only the infinite flat chess-board of the little fields. It was the scene
+ of peace and prosperity; but I must confess that my friend&rsquo;s first action
+ was to ask the man when there would be another train back to Mechlin. The
+ man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one hour. We walked
+ up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour&rsquo;s walk away it began
+ to rain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and, finding the
+ train waiting, climbed into it with some relief. The officer on this train
+ could speak nothing but Flemish, but he understood the name Mechlin, and
+ indicated that when we came to Mechlin Station he would put us down,
+ which, after the right interval of time, he did.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+ though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey screen
+ of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain depressing.
+ A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling. And if it is
+ exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you, why should it not
+ also be exciting when the gods throw many pails? But on this soaking
+ afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line of the Netherlands or the fact
+ that we were returning home without any adventure, I really did think
+ things a trifle dreary. As soon as we could creep under the shelter of a
+ street we turned into a little café, kept by one woman. She was incredibly
+ old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee and what was
+ called &ldquo;cognac fine.&rdquo; &ldquo;Cognac fine&rdquo; were the only two French words used in
+ the establishment, and they were not true. At least, the fineness (perhaps
+ by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me. After a little my friend, who
+ was more restless than I, got up and went out, to see if the rain had
+ stopped and if we could at once stroll back to our hotel by the station. I
+ sat finishing my coffee in a colourless mood, and listening to the
+ unremitting rain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured and
+ frantic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Get up!&rdquo; he cried, waving his hands wildly. &ldquo;Get up! We&rsquo;re in the wrong
+ town! We&rsquo;re not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles, twenty miles off&mdash;God
+ knows what! We&rsquo;re somewhere near Antwerp.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What!&rdquo; I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+ &ldquo;Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face for an instant
+ behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I was feeling depressed because we
+ were in the right town. But if we are in the wrong town&mdash;why, we have
+ our adventure after all! If we are in the wrong town, we are in the right
+ place.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat more
+ grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre, which seemed to
+ consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks, who sold lemonade.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!&rdquo; I cried enthusiastically.
+ &ldquo;We must do something, something sacramental and commemorative! We cannot
+ sacrifice an ox, and it would be a bore to build a temple. Let us write a
+ poem.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope and one of those
+ pencils that turn bright violet in water. There was plenty of water about,
+ and the violet ran down the paper, symbolising the rich purple of that
+ romantic hour. I began, choosing the form of an old French ballade; it is
+ the easiest because it is the most restricted&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,<br/>
+    And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?<br/>
+ Can a man walk in Paradise<br/>
+    And think he is in Turnham Green?<br/>
+ And could I take you for Malines,<br/>
+    Not knowing the nobler thing you were?<br/>
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,<br/>
+    The lovely city of Lierre.<br/>
+<br/>
+ &ldquo;Through memory&rsquo;s mist in glimmering guise<br/>
+    Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.<br/>
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,<br/>
+    To think how wet my boots have been<br/>
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it expressed a more
+ wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean. But he only turned up his
+ coat collar, and I felt that for him the muse had folded her wings. I
+ rewrote&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;Now if I die a Rural Dean,<br/>
+    Or rob a bank I do not care,<br/>
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen<br/>
+    The lovely city of Lierre.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The next line,&rdquo; I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The next line,&rdquo; he said somewhat harshly, &ldquo;will be a railway line. We can
+ get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we have to change twice. I
+ dare say I should think this jolly romantic but for the weather. Adventure
+ is the champagne of life, but I prefer my champagne and my adventures dry.
+ Here is the station.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred cloud of
+ rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky, that even made one
+ think of stars. Then I leant forward and said to my friend in a low voice&mdash;&ldquo;I
+ have found out everything. We have come to the wrong star.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: &ldquo;That is what makes life at
+ once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world. When I thought
+ that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it was wrong, I was
+ happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness, tires us because it
+ tells us we fit into this world. The true happiness is that we don&rsquo;t fit.
+ We come from somewhere else. We have lost our way.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had impressed
+ or only fatigued him I could not tell. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; I added, &ldquo;is suggested in
+ the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected&mdash;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+ &ldquo;&lsquo;Happy is he and more than wise<br/>
+    Who sees with wondering eyes and clean<br/>
+ The world through all the grey disguise<br/>
+    Of sleep and custom in between.<br/>
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,<br/>
+    But shall we know when we are there?<br/>
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,<br/>
+    The lovely city of Lierre.&rsquo;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple we heard
+ the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with &ldquo;No bally HORS D&rsquo;OEUVRES for
+ me: I shall get on to something solid at once.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<p class="poem">
+            L&rsquo;Envoy<br/>
+<br/>
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,<br/>
+    Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,<br/>
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,<br/>
+    The lovely city of Lierre.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040"></a>
+XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant</h2>
+ <p>
+ Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take a
+ small part in one of those historical processions or pageants which
+ happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909. And since I tend,
+ like all who are growing old, to re-enter the remote past as a paradise or
+ playground, I disinter a memory which may serve to stand among those
+ memories of small but strange incidents with which I have sometimes filled
+ this column. The thing has really some of the dark qualities of a
+ detective-story; though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could
+ hardly unravel it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the
+ actors, doubtless, long dead.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth century,
+ and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that Dr. Johnson
+ was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over gravy, snorted
+ and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man in London, I
+ mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt. I had nothing to
+ do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions as I made were not
+ taken so seriously as they might have been. I requested that a row of
+ posts be erected across the lawn, so that I might touch all of them but
+ one, and then go back and touch that. Failing this, I felt that the least
+ they could do was to have twenty-five cups of tea stationed at regular
+ intervals along the course, each held by a Mrs. Thrale in full costume. My
+ best constructive suggestion was the most harshly rejected of all. In
+ front of me in the procession walked the great Bishop Berkeley, the man
+ who turned the tables on the early materialists by maintaining that matter
+ itself possibly does not exist. Dr. Johnson, you will remember, did not
+ like such bottomless fancies as Berkeley&rsquo;s, and kicked a stone with his
+ foot, saying, &ldquo;I refute him so!&rdquo; Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone
+ would not make the metaphysical quarrel quite clear; besides, it would
+ hurt. But how picturesque and perfect it would be if I moved across the
+ ground in the symbolic attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete
+ an allegoric group; the great transcendentalist walking with his head
+ among the stars, but behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with
+ uplifted foot. But I must not take up space with these forgotten
+ frivolities; we old men grow too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my assumed character.
+ Suffice it to say that the procession took place at night in a large
+ garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date), that the garden was
+ crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms, and especially with early
+ Celtic saints smoking pipes, and with elegant Renaissance gentlemen
+ talking Cockney. Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless to say, that
+ I got lost. I wandered away into some dim corner of that dim shrubbery,
+ where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent ropes, and I began
+ almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his horror of solitude and
+ hatred of a country life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig advancing
+ across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man, who stooped in his
+ long black robes like a stooping eagle. When I thought he would pass me,
+ he stopped before my face, and said, &ldquo;Dr. Johnson, I think. I am Paley.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sir,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+ If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you will
+ perform a yet higher and harder function.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+ thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but, turning
+ his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms and winding
+ mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight and laughing men
+ in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am (you will say)
+ naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient. I was, moreover,
+ unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark and took a man for a
+ spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise as a modern gentleman in a
+ masquerade dress. No; far from it. That spectral person was my first
+ introduction to a special incident which has never been explained and
+ which still lays its finger on my nerve.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled as one does
+ at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life and a great deal
+ better looking. There was Cowper much larger than life; he ought to have
+ been a little man in a night-cap, with a cat under one arm and a spaniel
+ under the other. As it was, he was a magnificent person, and looked more
+ like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him at last to the
+ night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog. When I came the next night
+ Burke was still the same beautiful improvement upon himself; Cowper was
+ still weeping for his dog and cat and would not be comforted; Bishop
+ Berkeley was still waiting to be kicked in the interests of philosophy. In
+ short, I met all my old friends but one. Where was Paley? I had been
+ mystically moved by the man&rsquo;s presence; I was moved more by his absence.
+ At last I saw advancing towards us across the twilight garden a little man
+ with a large book and a bright attractive face. When he came near enough
+ he said, in a small, clear voice, &ldquo;I&rsquo;m Paley.&rdquo; The thing was quite
+ natural, of course; the man was ill and had sent a substitute. Yet somehow
+ the contrast was a shock.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four or five
+ colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual friend with Berkeley
+ and several points of difference with Burke. Cowper, I think it was, who
+ introduced me to a friend of his, a fresh face, square and sturdy, framed
+ in a white wig. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; he explained, &ldquo;is my friend So-and-So. He&rsquo;s
+ Paley.&rdquo; I looked round at all the faces by this time fixed and familiar; I
+ studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the third Paley as one bows
+ to necessity. So far the thing was all within the limits of coincidence.
+ It certainly seemed odd that this one particular cleric should be so
+ varying and elusive. It was singular that Paley, alone among men, should
+ swell and shrink and alter like a phantom, while all else remained solid.
+ But the thing was explicable; two men had been ill and there was an end of
+ it; only I went again the next night, and a clear-coloured elegant youth
+ with powdered hair bounded up to me, and told me with boyish excitement
+ that he was Paley.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition of the
+ modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural explanations have
+ broken down and no supernatural explanation has been established. My
+ bewilderment had reached to boredom when I found myself once more in the
+ colour and clatter of the pageant, and I was all the more pleased because
+ I met an old school-fellow, and we mutually recognised each other under
+ our heavy clothes and hoary wigs. We talked about all those great things
+ for which literature is too small and only life large enough; red-hot
+ memories and those gigantic details which make up the characters of men. I
+ heard all about the friends he had lost sight of and those he had kept in
+ sight; I heard about his profession, and asked at last how he came into
+ the pageant.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The fact is,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night, to
+ act a chap called Paley; I don&rsquo;t know who he was....&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, by thunder!&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;nor does anyone.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream. I scarcely
+ noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure which fell into
+ the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased. What could it
+ mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among the faithful found? Did
+ these perpetual changes prove the popularity or the unpopularity of being
+ Paley? Was it that no human being could support being Paley for one night
+ and live till morning? Or was it that the gates were crowded with eager
+ throngs of the British public thirsting to be Paley, who could only be let
+ in one at a time? Or is there some ancient vendetta against Paley? Does
+ some secret society of Deists still assassinate any one who adopts the
+ name?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery; and that for
+ two reasons. First, the story is so true that I have had to put a lie into
+ it. Every word of this narrative is veracious, except the one word Paley.
+ And second, because I have got to go into the next room and dress up as
+ Dr. Johnson.
+ </p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #8092 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/8092)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G.K. Chesterton
+
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+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G.K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8092]
+[This file was first posted on June 13, 2003]
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+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+by
+
+G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Preface
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission
+of the Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared.
+They amount to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary
+recording one day in twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--
+the only kind of diary the author has ever been able to keep.
+Even that diary he could only keep by keeping it in public,
+for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the topics they
+are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive. As the
+reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages,
+it probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post,
+a window blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the
+reader is looking at something that he has never seen: that is,
+never realised. He could not write an essay on such a post or
+wall: he does not know what the post or wall mean. He could
+not even write the synopsis of an essay; as "The Bed-Post; Its
+Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night Felt
+as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture," and so on.
+He could not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards
+window-blinds, even in the form of a summary. "The Window-Blind--
+Its Analogy to the Curtain and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?
+--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun, etc., etc." None of us
+think enough of these things on which the eye rests. But don't
+let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy? Let us
+exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that run
+across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be
+ocular athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or
+a coloured cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what
+follows; but anyone else may do it better, if anyone else will
+only try.
+
+
+Contents Chapter
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon's Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+I
+
+Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly
+in the front garden, because their villa was a model one.
+The front garden was about the same size as the dinner table;
+it consisted of four strips of gravel, a square of turf with some
+mysterious pieces of cork standing up in the middle and one flower
+bed with a row of red daisies. One morning while they were at play
+in these romantic grounds, a passing individual, probably the milkman,
+leaned over the railing and engaged them in philosophical conversation.
+The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter, were at least sharply
+interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who was, I need say,
+a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering them
+in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for.
+And Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness,
+explaining that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride
+across continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas
+in an afternoon dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from
+his breast pocket, waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner;
+and in an instant the model villa with its front garden was like a
+tiny doll's house at Paul's colossal feet. He went striding away
+with his head above the clouds to visit Niagara and the Himalayas.
+But when he came to the Himalayas, he found they were quite small
+and silly-looking, like the little cork rockery in the garden; and when
+he found Niagara it was no bigger than the tap turned on in the bathroom.
+He wandered round the world for several minutes trying to find
+something really large and finding everything small, till in sheer
+boredom he lay down on four or five prairies and fell asleep.
+Unfortunately his head was just outside the hut of an intellectual
+backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment with an axe in one hand
+and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the other. The man looked
+at the book and then at the giant, and then at the book again.
+And in the book it said, "It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe."
+So the backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and,
+working eight hours a day for about a week, cut the giant's head off;
+and there was an end of him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long
+wished to be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he
+immediately became one. When the transformation was over he found
+himself in the midst of an immense plain, covered with a tall green
+jungle and above which, at intervals, rose strange trees each with
+a head like the sun in symbolic pictures, with gigantic rays of
+silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward the middle of this prairie
+stood up a mountain of such romantic and impossible shape, yet of
+such stony height and dominance, that it looked like some incident
+of the end of the world. And far away on the faint horizon he
+could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more mystical,
+of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever. He
+set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has
+not come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced
+it is not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction.
+It is in fact the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating
+the pages that follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences
+upon European literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own
+preference in its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it
+by what little girls call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other
+great literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England
+by Mr. Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest
+by sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere.
+Let it be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight;
+and the two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school
+advises us to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without
+a frock coat. The school to which I belong suggests that we should
+stare steadily at the man until we see the man inside the frock coat.
+If we stare at him long enough he may even be moved to take off his coat
+to us; and that is a far greater compliment than his taking off his hat.
+In other words, we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely
+on the facts actually before us, force them to turn into adventures;
+force them to give up their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose.
+The purpose of the Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary
+things a man may see if he is active and strides from continent
+to continent like the giant in my tale. But the object of my school
+is to show how many extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man
+may see if he can spur himself to the single activity of seeing.
+For this purpose I have taken the laziest person of my acquaintance, that
+is myself; and made an idle diary of such odd things as I have fallen over
+by accident, in walking in a very limited area at a very indolent pace.
+If anyone says that these are very small affairs talked about in very
+big language, I can only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke.
+If anyone says that I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess
+with pride that it is so. I can imagine no more successful and productive
+form of manufacture than that of making mountains out of molehills.
+But I would add this not unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains;
+one has only to become a pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering,
+in getting to the top of everything and overlooking everything.
+Satan was the most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took
+Jesus to the top of an exceeding high mountain and showed
+him all the kingdoms of the earth. But the joy of Satan
+in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness, but a joy in
+beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like insects
+at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large;
+it is from the level that things look high; I am a child
+of the level and have no need of that celebrated Alpine guide.
+I will lift up my eyes to the hills, from whence cometh my help;
+but I will not lift up my carcass to the hills, unless it is
+absolutely necessary. Everything is in an attitude of mind;
+and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude.
+I will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle
+on me like flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you.
+The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only
+for want of wonder.
+
+
+II
+
+A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up
+a walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any
+brown paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she
+mistook the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper.
+She seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must
+be wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to do;
+indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental capacity.
+Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of toughness and
+endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only wanted to draw
+pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in the least;
+and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a question, not of
+tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing comparatively
+irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I wanted to draw
+she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently supposing
+that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper wrappers
+from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I
+not only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness
+in paper, just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods,
+or in beer, or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper
+represents the primal twilight of the first toil of creation,
+and with a bright-coloured chalk or two you can pick out points
+of fire in it, sparks of gold, and blood-red, and sea-green,
+like the first fierce stars that sprang out of divine darkness.
+All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman; and I put the brown
+paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and possibly other things.
+I suppose every one must have reflected how primeval and how poetical
+are the things that one carries in one's pocket; the pocket-knife,
+for instance, the type of all human tools, the infant of the sword.
+Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely about the things
+in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and the age
+of the great epics is past.
+
+. . . . .
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper,
+I went out on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal
+contours that express the best quality of England, because they
+are at the same time soft and strong. The smoothness of them
+has the same meaning as the smoothness of great cart-horses,
+or the smoothness of the beech-tree; it declares in the teeth
+of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty are merciful.
+As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake.
+The villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see,
+for centuries; yet the lifting of the whole land was like
+the lifting of one enormous wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going
+to sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim,
+and blind old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right,
+and saints in robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green,
+and all the sacred or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright
+colours on brown paper. They are much better worth drawing than Nature;
+also they are much easier to draw. When a cow came slouching
+by in the field next to me, a mere artist might have drawn it;
+but I always get wrong in the hind legs of quadrupeds. So I drew
+the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly walking before me
+in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and silver, and had
+seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the beasts. But
+though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the landscape,
+it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the best out
+of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about the
+old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills;
+but they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much
+less about Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They
+painted the white robes of their holy virgins with the blinding
+snow, at which they had stared all day. They blazoned the shields
+of their paladins with the purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets.
+The greenness of a thousand green leaves clustered into the live
+green figure of Robin Hood. The blueness of a score of forgotten
+skies became the blue robes of the Virgin. The inspiration went
+in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that a
+most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential.
+I cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the
+wise and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this,
+that white is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is
+a shining and affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as
+black. When, so to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses;
+when it grows white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three
+defiant verities of the best religious morality, of real Christianity,
+for example, is exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of
+religious morality is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence
+of vices or the avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and
+separate thing, like pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean
+not being cruel or sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a
+plain and positive thing like the sun, which one has either seen or
+not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means
+something flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in
+many colours; but He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost
+said so gaudily, as when He paints in white. In a sense our age
+has realised this fact, and expressed it in our sullen costume.
+For if it were really true that white was a blank and colourless
+thing, negative and non-committal, then white would be used instead
+of black and grey for the funeral dress of this pessimistic period.
+We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of spotless silver
+linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies. Which is
+not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town
+nearer than Chichester at which it was even remotely probable
+that there would be such a thing as an artist's colourman.
+And yet, without white, my absurd little pictures would be as
+pointless as the world would be if there were no good people in it.
+I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for expedients.
+Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and again,
+so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine a
+man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some
+salt water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on
+an immense warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made
+entirely out of white chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until
+it met the sky. I stooped and broke a piece off the rock I sat on;
+it did not mark so well as the shop chalks do; but it gave the
+effect. And I stood there in a trance of pleasure, realising that
+this Southern England is not only a grand peninsula, and a tradition
+and a civilisation; it is something even more admirable. It is a
+piece of chalk.
+
+
+III
+
+The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a
+loose memory. I will not merely say that this story is true:
+because, as you will soon see, it is all truth and no story.
+It has no explanation and no conclusion; it is, like most of the other
+things we encounter in life, a fragment of something else which
+would be intensely exciting if it were not too large to be seen.
+For the perplexity of life arises from there being too many
+interesting things in it for us to be interested properly in any
+of them; what we call its triviality is really the tag-ends
+of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like ten
+thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon.
+My experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate,
+not fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents
+(what there were of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere
+of the landscape, which were the whole horror of the thing.
+I remember them vividly, and they were as I shall now describe.
+
+. . . . .
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing
+outside the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London.
+And for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind
+or the emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice
+fell upon me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step
+out on the road and walk at least some part of the way to London.
+I do not know if other people are made like me in this matter;
+but to me it is always dreary weather, what may be called
+useless weather, that slings into life a sense of action and romance.
+On bright blue days I do not want anything to happen; the world
+is complete and beautiful, a thing for contemplation. I no more
+ask for adventures under that turquoise dome than I ask for
+adventures in church. But when the background of man's life is
+a grey background, then, in the name of man's sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail
+man refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in
+letters of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall
+happen, then the immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises
+up and decrees that something shall happen, if it be only the
+slaughter of a policeman. But this is a digressive way of stating
+what I have said already--that the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger
+for some change of plans, that the monotonous weather seemed to
+render unbearable the use of the monotonous train, and that I set
+out into the country lanes, out of the town of Oxford. It was,
+perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came upon me out of
+the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years afterwards
+I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir George
+Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless.
+The fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies;
+the tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds
+and as cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening
+was closing in. A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon,
+as if pale with reluctance to leave the world in the dark.
+And as it faded more and more the skies seemed to come closer and
+to threaten. The clouds which had been merely sullen became swollen;
+and then they loosened and let down the dark curtains of the rain.
+The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like blows from an enemy
+at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and bawling
+in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man,
+and in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met
+him I asked him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up
+the train for Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station
+(I cannot even remember the name of it) which stood well away
+from the road and looked as lonely as a hut on the Andes.
+I do not think I have ever seen such a type of time and sadness
+and scepticism and everything devilish as that station was:
+it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking
+wood of it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome
+liquid corruption of the wood itself; as if the solid station
+were eternally falling to pieces and pouring away in filth.
+It took me nearly ten minutes to find a man in the station.
+When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him if there was
+a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As far as I
+understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail
+of the tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain.
+It may have been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather
+slowly into the station. It was an unnaturally dark train;
+I could not see a light anywhere in the long black body of it;
+and I could not see any guard running beside it. I was reduced
+to walking up to the engine and calling out to the stoker to ask
+if the train was going to London. "Well--yes, sir," he said, with
+an unaccountable kind of reluctance. "It is going to London;
+but----" It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering,
+as we steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined
+with desolate poplars, until we slowed down and stopped,
+irrationally, in the middle of a field. I heard a heavy noise as
+of some one clambering off the train, and a dark, ragged head
+suddenly put itself into my window. "Excuse me, sir," said the
+stoker, "but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps you ought to know--
+there's a dead man in this train."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be
+finally overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have
+insisted on getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to
+say, I expressed myself politely, but firmly, to the effect that
+I didn't care particularly if the train took me to Paddington.
+But when the train had started with its unknown burden I did do
+one thing, and do it quite instinctively, without stopping to
+think, or to think more than a flash. I threw away my cigar.
+Something that is as old as man and has to do with all mourning
+and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there
+being only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the
+other smoking a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end
+of it faded like a funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic
+moment of a procession, I realised how immortal ritual is. I
+realised (what is the origin and essence of all ritual) that in
+the presence of those sacred riddles about which we can say
+nothing it is more decent merely to do something. And I realised
+that ritual will always mean throwing away something; DESTROYING
+our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang
+out of it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier
+and officials guarding the rear part of the train; no one was
+allowed to press towards it. They were guarding and hiding
+something; perhaps death in some too shocking form, perhaps
+something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up with human mystery
+and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of sanctity;
+perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough into
+the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces. Nor
+have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+IV
+
+THE PERFECT GAME
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have
+happened to him, but that he does not really believe that they
+were supernatural. My own position is the opposite of this.
+I believe in the supernatural as a matter of intellect and reason,
+not as a matter of personal experience. I do not see ghosts;
+I only see their inherent probability. But it is entirely
+a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy.
+But upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often
+leave a peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance
+that ever occurred to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted
+in nothing less than my playing a game, and playing it quite well
+for some seventeen consecutive minutes. The ghost of my grandfather
+would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and
+luxuriant side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene.
+I played it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had
+a semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest.
+It is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument;
+but it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+"Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!" I cried, patting him affectionately
+on the head with a mallet, "how far you really are from the pure
+love of the sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly
+who love the Game itself. You love glory; you love applause;
+you love the earthquake voice of victory; you do not love croquet.
+You do not love croquet until you love being beaten at croquet.
+It is we the bunglers who adore the occupation in the abstract.
+It is we to whom it is art for art's sake. If we may see the face
+of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself) we are content to
+see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is called amateurish;
+and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs is but the
+French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady, the most
+disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates (I
+allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within
+the pedantic boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek
+honour in the ends of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds
+and the conservatory; they are to be found in the front garden
+and the next street. No, Parkinson! The good painter has skill.
+It is the bad painter who loves his art. The good musician
+loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With such a
+pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or
+tape, as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland,
+the four seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and
+the click of the balls is music. The four colours are to me
+sacramental and symbolic, like the red of martyrdom, or the white
+of Easter Day. You lose all this, my poor Parkinson. You have to
+solace yourself for the absence of this vision by the paltry
+consolation of being able to go through hoops and to hit the stick."
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+"Don't be too sorry for me," said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm.
+"I shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more
+a man likes a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that
+the pleasure in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure
+of success come naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your
+own simile of the Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman
+does first and foremost want to be in the lady's presence. But I
+never yet heard of a gentleman who wanted to look an utter ass when
+he was there."
+
+"Perhaps not; though he generally looks it," I replied. "But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the
+love of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not
+true that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger
+will be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to
+enjoy it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant
+hoop as easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would
+not put it through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your
+hand; it would not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you
+would not play at all. The moment the game is perfect the game
+disappears."
+
+"I do not think, however," said Parkinson, "that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not
+think your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence.
+You are safe for the present."
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired myself,
+and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four
+more fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five
+more hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+"We shall have to give this up," said Parkinson, as he missed
+a ball almost for the first time, "I can't see a thing."
+
+"Nor can I," I answered, "and it is a comfort to reflect that I
+could not hit anything if I saw it."
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was
+the right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I
+supposed was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick.
+And in the dead silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball
+struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. "I can't stand this," I said. "My ball has
+gone right three times. These things are not of this world."
+
+"Pick your mallet up ," said Parkinson, "have another go."
+
+"I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see
+all the devils dancing there on the blessed grass."
+
+"Why devils?" asked Parkinson; "they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game."
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness,
+in which the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across
+the grass as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull
+click of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+V
+
+The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper
+columns. I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better
+expressed by some practical parable out of daily life than by any
+other method; therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the
+extraordinary cabman, which occurred to me only three days ago, and
+which, slight as it apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine
+emotion bordering upon despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching
+in a little restaurant in Soho in company with three or four
+of my best friends. My best friends are all either bottomless
+sceptics or quite uncontrollable believers, so our discussion
+at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate and terrible ideas.
+And the whole argument worked out ultimately to this: that the
+question is whether a man can be certain of anything at all.
+I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible
+intellectually to entertain certainty, what is this certainty
+which it is impossible to entertain? If I have never experienced
+such a thing as certainty I cannot even say that a thing is not
+certain. Similarly, if I have never experienced such a thing as
+green I cannot even say that my nose is not green. It may be as
+green as possible for all I know, if I have really no experience
+of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the room;
+because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing.
+And the difference between us was very deep, because it
+was a difference as to the object of the whole thing
+called broad-mindedness or the opening of the intellect.
+For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the sun
+opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening's sake,
+opening infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened
+my intellect as I opened my mouth, in order to shut it
+again on something solid. I was doing it at the moment.
+And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly silly
+if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short
+(for it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions,
+who in the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election
+had somehow become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab
+from the corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House
+of Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper
+is a discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude
+of detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab
+on a few hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I
+had to visit. I then got out and offered him more than his fare.
+He looked at it, but not with the surly doubt and general
+disposition to try it on which is not unknown among normal cabmen.
+But this was no normal, perhaps, no human, cabman. He looked at it
+with a dull and infantile astonishment, clearly quite genuine.
+"Do you know, sir," he said, "you've only given me 1s.8d?"
+I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. "Now you know,
+sir," said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, "you know
+that ain't the fare from Euston." "Euston," I repeated vaguely,
+for the phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia.
+"What on earth has Euston got to do with it?" "You hailed me just outside
+Euston Station," began the man with astonishing precision, "and then
+you said----" "What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?"
+I said with Christian forbearance; "I took you at the south-west
+corner of Leicester-square." "Leicester-square," he exclaimed,
+loosening a kind of cataract of scorn, "why we ain't been near
+Leicester-square to-day. You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----" "Are you mad, or am I?" I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would
+think of creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie.
+And this man was not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human
+face was heavy and simple and humble, and with great big
+blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever (in short)
+a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and
+down the street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming
+on. And for one second the old nightmare of the sceptic put
+its finger on my nerve. What was certainty? Was anybody
+certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the dull rut of the
+sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future life.
+The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we
+possess a past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically
+considered, except a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew
+deeper from the road. The cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate
+details of the gesture, the words, the complex but consistent
+course of action which I had adopted since that remarkable
+occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston Station. How did I
+know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not hailed him
+outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite equally
+firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I, and a
+member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment
+the universe and the stars swung just a hair's breadth from
+their balance, and the foundations of the earth were moved.
+But for the same reason that I believe in Democracy, for the same
+reason that I believe in free will, for the same reason that I
+believe in fixed character of virtue, the reason that could
+only be expressed by saying that I do not choose to be a lunatic,
+I continued to believe that this honest cabman was wrong,
+and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and
+ponderous sincerity, "You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----"
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind
+of frightful transfiguration of living astonishment,
+as if he had been lit up like a lamp from the inside.
+"Why, I beg your pardon, sir," he said. "I beg your pardon.
+I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I remember now.
+I beg your pardon." And with that this astonishing man let out
+his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance
+and the mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying
+that although his face had seemed so honest there was something
+unearthly and demoniac about him when seen from behind.
+Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me from my adherence to those
+sanities and certainties which I had defended earlier in the day.
+In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that my sense of reality,
+though it had rocked for an instant, had remained erect.
+
+
+VI
+
+An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called
+"The Extraordinary Cabman." I am now in a position to
+contribute my experience of a still more extraordinary cab.
+The extraordinary thing about the cab was that it did not like me;
+it threw me out violently in the middle of the Strand.
+If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are as romantic (and as rich)
+as I take them to be, I presume that this experience is not uncommon.
+I suppose that they are all being thrown out of cabs, all over London.
+Still, as there are some people, virginal and remote from the world,
+who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I will give
+a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--
+that one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged,
+will gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that
+it is both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in
+these two respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came
+to grief. But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it
+belongs to a beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is
+pretending to be richer than they are, and acting as if they were.
+It is comfortable, and yet it is reckless; and that combination
+is the very soul of England. But although I had always
+realised all these good qualities in a hansom cab, I had not
+experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put it,
+all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits
+of a hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up.
+Let me, therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom
+cab for the first and, I am happy to believe, the last time.
+Polycrates threw one ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates.
+I have thrown one hansom cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather
+violent metaphor) and the Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated.
+Though I am told they do not like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one
+of the sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own
+admirable articles with continual pleasure, and still more
+continual surprise, when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment
+on the scraping stones, staggered to his feet again, and went forward.
+The horses in my cabs often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy
+my own articles at any angle of the vehicle. So I did not see
+anything at all odd about the way the horse went on again.
+But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the people on the pavement.
+They were all turned towards me, and they were all struck
+with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky.
+And one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the
+elbow as if warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse.
+Then I knew that the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse
+was like a living thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly
+as they seemed to me; many details I may have missed or mis-stated;
+many details may have, so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road.
+I remember that I once called one of my experiences narrated in this
+paper "A Fragment of Fact." This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact.
+No fact could possibly be more fragmentary than the sort of fact
+that I expected to be at the bottom of that street.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally
+found that the converted do not understand their own religion.
+Thus I have always urged in this paper that democracy has
+a deeper meaning than democrats understand; that is, that common
+and popular things, proverbs, and ordinary sayings always have
+something in them unrealised by most who repeat them. Here is one.
+We have all heard about the man who is in momentary danger,
+and who sees the whole of his life pass before him in a moment.
+In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is obviously
+a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident
+or a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets
+he had ever taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever
+passed the brown bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards
+the traffic of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth
+behind this phrase, as there is behind all popular phrases.
+I did really have, in that short and shrieking period,
+a rapid succession of a number of fundamental points of view.
+I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as many seconds.
+My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere men
+is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded
+a state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper
+name has ever been found. The ancients called it Stoicism,
+and I think it must be what some German lunatics mean
+(if they mean anything) when they talk about Pessimism.
+It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that happens--
+as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously enough,
+came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic.
+It was a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that
+life was much too important ever to be anything but life.
+I hope that this was Christianity. At any rate, it occurred
+at the moment when we went crash into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling
+out from underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they
+must have added enormously to that great cause to which the
+Anti-Puritan League and I have recently dedicated ourselves.
+I mean the cause of the pleasures of the people. As to my demeanour
+when I emerged, I have two confessions to make, and they are both
+made merely in the interests of mental science. The first is that
+whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the moment before
+the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got off with a
+cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped.
+I can distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state
+of irremediable spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now,
+and I apologise both to the man and to the paper. I have not the
+least idea what was the meaning of this unnatural anger; I mention
+it as a psychological confession. It was immediately followed by
+extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly jokes to the policeman
+that he disgraced himself by continual laughter before all the
+little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him seriously.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention
+as a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain.
+At intervals of about every three minutes I kept on reminding
+the policeman that I had not paid the cabman, and that I hoped
+he would not lose his money. He said it would be all right,
+and the man would appear. But it was not until about half an hour
+afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a shock intolerable
+that the man might conceivably have lost more than half a crown;
+that he had been in danger as well as I. I had instinctively
+regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents, a god.
+I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more delicate
+charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin, and neglect
+the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I was once really
+tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might have been dead.
+Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross Hospital tied
+up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand. I felt upon
+me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something untried.
+So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+VII
+
+The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement
+and casting about for some phrase of consolation that should
+not be either insolent or weak, said at last, "I think one can
+live through these great sorrows and even be the better.
+What wears one is the little worries." "That's quite right, mum,"
+answered the old woman with emphasis, "and I ought to know,
+seeing I've had ten of 'em." It is, perhaps, in this sense
+that it is most true that little worries are most wearing.
+In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a truth,
+contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the
+right to say that they find the small ones the most bitter;
+and it is undoubtedly true that the back which is bowed under
+loads incredible can feel a faint addition to those loads;
+a giant holding up the earth and all its animal creation might
+still find the grasshopper a burden. But I am afraid that the
+maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is sometimes used
+or abused by people, because they have nothing but the very
+smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity
+she would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman
+may permit himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he
+would behave much better if it were a mere matter of starvation.
+We need not deny that the grasshopper on man's shoulder is
+a burden; but we need not pay much respect to the gentleman
+who is always calling out that he would rather have an elephant
+when he knows there are no elephants in the country.
+We may concede that a straw may break the camel's back,
+but we like to know that it really is the last straw and
+not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right
+to grumble, so long as they grumble about something else.
+It is a singular fact that if they are sane they almost always
+do grumble about something else. To talk quite reasonably about
+your own quite real wrongs is the quickest way to go off your head.
+But people with great troubles talk about little ones,
+and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very often
+has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly
+a very clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified
+in asking that he shall not make mountains out of molehills.
+I do no deny that molehills can sometimes be important.
+Small annoyances have this evil about them, that they can be more
+abrupt because they are more invisible; they cast no shadow before,
+they have no atmosphere. No one ever had a mystical premonition
+that he was going to tumble over a hassock. William III.
+died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose that with all his
+varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a mountain.
+But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask a happy man
+(not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences, and even make
+them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive poverty
+I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts,
+finding unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse,
+finding punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures
+to be drawn from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence
+because I have recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures
+which arise from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot,
+with the only alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--
+a stork is a poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if
+the thing itself symbolise something other than isolation.
+If we wish to see what a house is it must be a house in some
+uninhabited landscape. If we wish to depict what a man really
+is we must depict a man alone in a desert or on a dark sea sand.
+So long as he is a single figure he means all that humanity means;
+so long as he is solitary he means human society; so long
+as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship.
+Add another figure and the picture is less human--not more so.
+One is company, two is none. If you wish to symbolise
+human building draw one dark tower on the horizon; if you
+wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the sky.
+Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we
+call our day there is but one star in the sky--a large,
+fierce star which we call the sun. One sun is splendid;
+six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of Giotto is sublime;
+a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row of white posts.
+The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower; the poetry
+of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping
+the single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find
+the poetry of all human anatomy in standing on a single leg.
+To express complete and perfect leggishness the leg must stand
+in sublime isolation, like the tower in the wilderness.
+As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is that which
+stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity
+of some Doric column. The students of architecture tell us
+that the only legitimate use of a column is to support weight.
+This column of mine fulfils its legitimate function.
+It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic consistency,
+it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness
+or dislocation of the one leg may find compensation in the
+astonishing strength and classic beauty of the other leg.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr. George Meredith's novel might
+pass by at any moment, and seeing me in the stork-like attitude
+would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more literal exactitude,
+"He has a leg." Notice how this famous literary phrase supports
+my contention touching this isolation of any admirable thing.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg.
+She delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive
+fact that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous
+and irrelevant, a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have
+confused Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London.
+That having had one good leg he should have another--
+this would be to use vain repetitions as the Gentiles do.
+She would have been as much bewildered by him as if he had
+been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity,
+all desolation has for its real aim this separation of something
+so that it may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel
+grateful for the slight sprain which has introduced this mysterious
+and fascinating division between one of my feet and the other.
+The way to love anything is to realise that it might be lost.
+In one of my feet I can feel how strong and splendid a foot is;
+in the other I can realise how very much otherwise it might
+have been. The moral of the thing is wholly exhilarating.
+This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us.
+If you wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself
+if only for a moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully
+and wonderfully God's image is made, stand on one leg.
+If you want to realise the splendid vision of all visible things--
+wink the other eye.
+
+
+VIII
+
+The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious
+town of Besancon, which stands like a sort of peninsula
+in a horse-shoe of river. You may learn from the guide books
+that it was the birthplace of Victor Hugo, and that it is
+a military station with many forts, near the French frontier.
+But you will not learn from guide books that the very tiles
+on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate
+colour than the tiles of all the other towns of the world;
+that the tiles look like the little clouds of some strange sunset,
+or like the lustrous scales of some strange fish. They will not
+tell you that in this town the eye cannot rest on anything without
+finding it in some way attractive and even elvish, a carved face
+at a street corner, a gleam of green fields through a stunted arch,
+or some unexpected colour for the enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours
+so simple and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together
+and make a fairy tale. I sat down for a little outside a cafe
+with a row of little toy trees in front of it, and presently
+the driver of a fly (as we should call it) came to the same place.
+He was one of those very large and dark Frenchmen, a type not
+common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian Frenchman,
+huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was a sort
+of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but English.
+And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two nations.
+For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets,
+this Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--
+as if pleasure were a kind of pagan religion. After some
+talk which was full of the admirable civility and equality
+of French civilisation, he suggested without either eagerness
+or embarrassment that he should take me in his fly for an hour's
+ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was growing late
+I consented; for there was one long white road under an archway
+and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord.
+We drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans,
+and I remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we
+passed out of the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds
+which are the trinity of France. They make what some poet calls
+"a tangled trinity," and I am not going to disentangle it.
+Whatever those three things mean, how or why they co-exist;
+whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are reconciled already;
+the three sounds I heard then by an accident all at once make up
+the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino gardens behind
+me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some ramping tune
+from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on I heard
+also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible loyalties
+and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having
+left France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world.
+And, indeed, there was something in the landscape wild
+enough to encourage such a fancy. I have seen perhaps
+higher mountains, but I have never seen higher rocks;
+I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and sensational,
+splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of churches,
+cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from heaven.
+There was also a quality in the ride which was not only astonishing,
+but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have noticed
+if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads.
+I mean a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole
+earth turning about one's head. It is quite inadequate
+to say that the hills rose and fell like enormous waves.
+Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the enormous sails
+of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic wings.
+As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset this
+dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof.
+I stared at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a
+wooded plain. Below me steeps of green swept down to the river.
+I stared at them until I fancied that they swept up to the sky.
+The purple darkened, night drew nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer
+the chasms and draw higher the spires of that nightmare landscape.
+Above me in the twilight was the huge black hulk of the driver,
+and his broad, blank back was as mysterious as the back
+of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I was growing
+too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things.
+I called out to the driver in French, "Where are you taking me?"
+and it is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same
+language without turning around, "To the end of the world."
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark,
+steep ways, until I saw lights under a low roof of little
+trees and two children, one oddly beautiful, playing at ball.
+Then we found ourselves filling up the strict main street
+of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was written
+in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place.
+I ordered bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but
+had no name. On the other side of the road was a little plain
+church with a cross on top of it and a cock on top of the cross.
+This seemed to me a very good end of the world; if the story
+of the world ended here it ended well. Then I wondered whether I
+myself should really be content to end here, where most certainly
+there were the best things of Christendom--a church and children's
+games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me,
+and at last I started up.
+
+"Are you not satisfied?" asked my companion. "No," I said,
+"I am not satisfied even at the end of the world."
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, "Because you see there are two
+ends of the world. And this is the wrong end of the world;
+at least the wrong one for me. This is the French end of the world.
+I want the other end of the world. Drive me to the other end
+of the world."
+
+"The other end of the world?" he asked. "Where is that?"
+
+"It is in Walham Green," I whispered hoarsely. "You see it
+on the London omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.'
+Oh, I know how good this is; I love your vineyards and your
+free peasantry, but I want the English end of the world.
+I love you like a brother, but I want an English cabman,
+who will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman.
+Take, oh, take me to see a London policeman."
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset,
+and I could not tell whether he understood or not. I got back
+into his carriage.
+
+"You will understand," I said, "if ever you are an exile even
+for pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country,
+as a countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is
+rather too long a drive to the English end of the world,
+we may as well drive back to Besancon."
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept
+for Walham Green.
+
+
+IX
+
+In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a cafe in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with
+a capering figure, which stands in the place where the people
+destroyed a prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious
+example of how symbolic is the great part of human history.
+As a matter of mere material fact, the Bastille when it was taken
+was not a horrible prison; it was hardly a prison at all.
+But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a sure
+instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance,
+at the last General Election, or for President Kruger's hat
+in the election before; their poetic sense is perfect.
+The Chinaman with his pigtail is not an idle flippancy.
+He does typify with a compact precision exactly the thing
+the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots,
+that it is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy
+and evil magic calling monsters from the ends of the earth.
+The people hate the mine owner who can bring a Chinaman
+flying across the sea, exactly as the people hated the wizard
+who could fetch a flying dragon through the air. It was the same
+with Mr. Kruger's hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was not merely
+a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the exact
+thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the
+unbeautiful dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of
+political morality. No; the people are sometimes wrong on the
+practical side of politics; they are never wrong on the artistic
+side.
+
+. . . . .
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform.
+It was an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image.
+The people saw the building like a giant looking at them with
+a score of eyes, and they struck at it as at a carved fact.
+For of all the shapes in which that immense illusion called materialism
+can terrify the soul, perhaps the most oppressive are big buildings.
+Man feels like a fly, an accident, in the thing he has himself made.
+It requires a violent effort of the spirit to remember that
+man made this confounding thing and man could unmake it.
+Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual,
+a ritual meaning far beyond its immediate political results.
+It is a religious service. If, for instance, the Socialists were
+numerous or courageous enough to capture and smash up the Bank
+of England, you might argue for ever about the inutility of the act,
+and how it really did not touch the root of the economic problem
+in the correct manner. But mankind would never forget it.
+It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength
+of a society, for the most valuable things in a human
+state are the irrevocable things--marriage, for instance.
+And architecture approaches nearer than any other art to
+being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get rid of.
+You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall.
+You can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of
+very sincere emotion that you tear a town-hall to pieces.
+A building is akin to dogma; it is insolent, like a dogma.
+Whether or no it is permanent, it claims permanence like a dogma.
+People ask why we have no typical architecture of the modern world,
+like impressionism in painting. Surely it is obviously
+because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in
+the sky that does not change like the clouds of the sky.
+But along with this decision which is involved in creating a building,
+there goes a quite similar decision in the more delightful
+task of smashing one. The two of necessity go together.
+In few places have so many fine public buildings been set up
+as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been destroyed.
+When people have finally got into the horrible habit of preserving
+buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few
+are pulled down.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty
+and Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like
+so many such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and
+silent line of horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and
+prosaic enough, but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their
+helmets; and their helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans.
+I had seen them by twos and threes often enough before.
+I had seen plenty of them in pictures toiling through the snows
+of Friedland or roaring round the squares at Waterloo.
+But now they came file after file, like an invasion,
+and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that lit
+up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie
+into which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet
+and cry out, "The French soldiers!" There were the little men
+with the brown faces that had so often ridden through the capitals
+of Europe as coolly as they now rode through their own.
+And when I looked across the square I saw that the two other corners
+were choked with blue and red; held by little groups of infantry.
+The city was garrisoned as against a revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker.
+He said he was not going to "Chomer." I said, "Qu'est-ce que
+c'est que le chome?" He said, "Ils ne veulent pas travailler."
+I said, "Ni moi non plus," and he thought I was a class-conscious
+collectivist proletarian. The whole thing was curious, and the true
+moral of it one not easy for us, as a nation, to grasp, because our
+own faults are so deeply and dangerously in the other direction.
+To me, as an Englishman (personally steeped in the English optimism
+and the English dislike of severity), the whole thing seemed a fuss
+about nothing. It looked like turning out one of the best armies
+in Europe against ordinary people walking about the street.
+The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less harmlessly.
+But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not)
+as docile as the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled,
+so to speak, through the whole noisy night. This people has
+a natural faculty for feeling itself on the eve of something--of the
+Bartholomew or the Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment.
+It is this sense of crisis that makes France eternally young.
+It is perpetually pulling down and building up, as it pulled down
+the prison and put up the column in the Place de La Bastille.
+France has always been at the point of dissolution. She has found
+the only method of immortality. She dies daily.
+
+
+X
+
+On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience
+if only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic
+apparatus on the premises. I think myself that the thing
+might be managed with several pails of Aspinall and a broom.
+Only if one worked in a really sweeping and masterly way,
+and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip down again
+on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages.
+I am afraid it would be necessary to stick to black and white
+in this form of artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed,
+the white ceiling would be of the greatest possible use; in fact,
+it is the only use I think of a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces
+in a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, "Il me faut des geants."
+But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern
+rooms such as we all live in I was continually disappointed.
+I found an endless pattern and complication of small objects
+hung like a curtain of fine links between me and my desire.
+I examined the walls; I found them to my surprise to be
+already covered with wallpaper, and I found the wallpaper
+to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand
+why one arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely
+devoid of any religious or philosophical significance)
+should thus be sprinkled all over my nice walls like a sort
+of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to wallpapers, I think,
+when it says, "Use not vain repetitions, as the Gentiles do."
+I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called
+Turkish Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight
+really is; but I suppose it is Macedonian Massacres.
+Everywhere that I went forlornly, with my pencil or my paint brush,
+I found that others had unaccountably been before me,
+spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with their
+childish and barbaric designs.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this occasion
+when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying on my back
+in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my vision,
+that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom.
+But alas! like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found
+to be unattainable; it looks more austere and more distant
+than the blue sky outside the window. For my proposal to paint
+on it with the bristly end of a broom has been discouraged--
+never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all political rights--
+and even my minor proposal to put the other end of the broom into
+the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been conceded.
+Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that all
+the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods.
+I am sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged
+in the ancient and honourable occupation of lying in bed that
+he ever realized how the roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made
+into an awful imitation of a divine drama that could only be acted
+in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed
+is hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity
+that seem to mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing
+and dangerous than the exultation of very small and secondary
+matters of conduct at the expense of very great and primary ones,
+at the expense of eternal ties and tragic human morality.
+If there is one thing worse than the modern weakening of major morals,
+it is the modern strengthening of minor morals. Thus it is considered
+more withering to accuse a man of bad taste than of bad ethics.
+Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays, for cleanliness
+is made essential and godliness is regarded as an offence.
+A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long
+as he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met
+Ibsenite pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right
+to take prussic acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene;
+notably such matters as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded,
+as it ought to be, as a matter of personal convenience
+and adjustment, it has come to be regarded by many as if it
+were a part of essential morals to get up early in the morning.
+It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but there is nothing
+good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed,
+get up the night before. It is the great peril of our society
+that all its mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows
+more fickle. A man's minor actions and arrangements ought to
+be free, flexible, creative; the things that should be unchangeable
+are his principles, his ideals. But with us the reverse is true;
+our views change constantly; but our lunch does not change.
+Now, I should like men to have strong and rooted conceptions,
+but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes in the garden,
+sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the top
+of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles,
+but let them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon.
+This alarming growth of good habits really means a too great emphasis
+on those virtues which mere custom can ensure, it means too little
+emphasis on those virtues which custom can never quite ensure,
+sudden and splendid virtues of inspired pity or of inspired candour.
+If ever that abrupt appeal is made to us we may fail.
+A man can get use to getting up at five o'clock in the morning.
+A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his opinions;
+the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little more
+attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed
+of an almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed
+(like journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done
+in bed (as, for example, the professional harpooners of whales),
+it is obvious that the indulgence must be very occasional.
+But that is not the caution I mean. The caution is this:
+if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it without any reason or
+justification at all. I do not speak, of course, of the seriously sick.
+But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it without a rag of excuse;
+then he will get up a healthy man. If he does it for some secondary
+hygienic reason, if he has some scientific explanation, he may get
+up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+XI
+
+The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I was,
+so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden
+and arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea,
+and my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were
+also summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions
+of men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began
+with a C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping
+alphabetical way. At one official blow, so to speak,
+Battersea is denuded of all its C's, and left to get on
+as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A Cumberpatch
+is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--
+three Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children
+are crying out for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street
+corner is weeping for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted.
+We settle down with a rollicking ease into our seats
+(for we are a bold, devil-may-care race, the C's of Battersea),
+and an oath is administered to us in a totally inaudible manner
+by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his second childhood.
+We understand, however, that we are to well and truly try the case
+between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the bar,
+neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner
+were, perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some
+adjoining public house, the prisoner's head appears above
+the barrier of the dock; he is accused of stealing bicycles,
+and he is the living image of a great friend of mine.
+We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the
+prisoner in the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the
+conclusion, after a brief but reasonable discussion, that
+the King is not in any way implicated. Then we pass on to a
+woman who neglected her children, and who looks as if somebody
+or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who fancy
+that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances
+and the brain passed these light criticisms, there was in
+the heart a barbaric pity and fear which men have never been
+able to utter from the beginning, but which is the power behind
+half the poems of the world. The mood cannot even adequately
+be suggested, except faintly by this statement that tragedy
+is the highest expression of the infinite value of human life.
+Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away
+from pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these
+dark emotions at all, for speech about them is too difficult;
+but I mention them now for a specific and particular
+reason to the statement of which I will proceed at once.
+I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of them there
+came a curious realisation of a political or social truth.
+I saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what
+a jury really is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers
+because they fight better, trained singers because they sing better,
+trained dancers because they dance better, specially instructed
+laughers because they laugh better, and so on and so on.
+The principle has been applied to law and politics by innumerable
+modern writers. Many Fabians have insisted that a greater
+part of our political work should be performed by experts.
+Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should be
+altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable,
+I do not know that there would be any fault to find with this.
+But the true result of all experience and the true foundation
+of all religion is this. That the four or five things
+that it is most practically essential that a man should know,
+are all of them what people call paradoxes. That is to say,
+that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty
+of seeming verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance,
+is the unimpeachable platitude that the man who finds most
+pleasure for himself is often the man who least hunts for it.
+Another is the paradox of courage; the fact that the way
+to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful
+cliff above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness.
+Whoever will lose his life, the same shall save it;
+an entirely practical and prosaic statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught
+to every infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following:
+That the more a man looks at a thing, the less he can see it,
+and the more a man learns a thing the less he knows it.
+The Fabian argument of the expert, that the man who is trained
+should be the man who is trusted would be absolutely unanswerable
+if it were really true that a man who studied a thing and practiced
+it every day went on seeing more and more of its significance.
+But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its significance.
+In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we are
+continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility,
+seeing less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of men.
+But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can
+to other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun.
+And the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best,
+about all judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen,
+is not that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they
+are stupid (several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply
+that they have got used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they
+see is the usual man in the usual place. They do not see
+the awful court of judgment; they only see their own workshop.
+Therefore, the instinct of Christian civilisation has most wisely
+declared that into their judgments there shall upon every occasion
+be infused fresh blood and fresh thoughts from the streets.
+Men shall come in who can see the court and the crowd,
+and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional criminals,
+the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture
+or a play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided,
+that determining the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too
+important to be trusted to trained men. It wishes for light upon
+that awful matter, it asks men who know no more law than I know,
+but who can feel the things that I felt in the jury box.
+When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system discovered,
+or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when it
+wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve
+of the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I
+remember right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+XII
+
+The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf
+about the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks
+and roars in something that is at once exultation and agony.
+I feel, in fact, as if I were actually sitting at the bottom
+of the sea among mere anchors and ropes, while over my head
+and over the green twilight of water sounded the everlasting rush
+of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of tremendous ships.
+The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck them root
+and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy,
+the trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they
+were a tribe of dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible
+and violent witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind.
+I remember a little boy of my acquaintance who was once walking
+in Battersea Park under just such torn skies and tossing trees.
+He did not like the wind at all; it blew in his face too much;
+it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his hat, of which
+he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about four.
+After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said
+at last to his mother, "Well, why don't you take away the trees,
+and then it wouldn't wind."
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake.
+Any one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy
+that they were indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere
+waving agitated the air around them for miles. Nothing, I say,
+could be more human and excusable than the belief that it is
+the trees which make the wind. Indeed, the belief is so human
+and excusable that it is, as a matter of fact, the belief of about
+ninety-nine out of a hundred of the philosophers, reformers,
+sociologists, and politicians of the great age in which we live.
+My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal modern thinkers;
+only much nicer.
+
+. . . . .
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour
+of inventing, the trees stand for all visible things
+and the wind for the invisible. The wind is the spirit
+which bloweth where it listeth; the trees are the material
+things of the world which are blown where the spirit lists.
+The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees are
+cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind
+because the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad.
+We only know that there is a real revolution because all
+the chimney-pots go mad on the whole skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more
+ragged and rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails,
+so the human city rises under the wind of the spirit into toppling
+temples or sudden spires. No man has ever seen a revolution.
+Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood pouring down the gutters,
+the guillotine lifted higher than the throne, a prison
+in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind.
+So, also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that
+there is a revolution. And there never has been in the history
+of the world a real revolution, brutally active and decisive,
+which was not preceded by unrest and new dogma in the reign
+of invisible things. All revolutions began by being abstract.
+Most revolutions began by being quite pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved.
+So there must always be a battle in the sky before there
+is a battle on the earth. Since it is lawful to pray
+for the coming of the kingdom, it is lawful also to pray for
+the coming of the revolution that shall restore the kingdom.
+It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the trees.
+It is lawful to pray "Thine anger come on earth as it
+is in Heaven."
+
+. . . . .
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees.
+The great human heresy is that the trees move the wind.
+When people begin to say that the material circumstances have
+alone created the moral circumstances, then they have prevented
+all possibility of serious change. For if my circumstances
+have made me wholly stupid, how can I be certain even that I
+am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment
+is simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--
+including that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate
+authority is necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking.
+And nothing will ever be reformed in this age or country unless
+we realise that the moral fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard
+in debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists
+and total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty;
+the former say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their
+either of them being content with such simple physical explanations.
+Surely it is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat
+leads to poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink;
+the absence of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct
+that resists degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has
+this quality, which may strictly be called "hand to mouth," because under
+its influence a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth,
+instead of seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose.
+And a man who says that the English inequality in land is due only
+to economic causes, or that the drunkenness of England is due only
+to economic causes, is saying something so absurd that he cannot
+really have thought what he was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under
+the influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the
+economic theory of history. We have people who represent that all
+great historic motives were economic, and then have to howl at the
+top of their voices in order to induce the modern democracy to act
+on economic motives. The extreme Marxian politicians in England
+exhibit themselves as a small, heroic minority, trying vainly to
+induce the world to do what, according to their theory, the world
+always does. The truth is, of course, that there will be a social
+revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be purely economic.
+You can never have a revolution in order to establish a democracy.
+You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight
+rain have ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars
+in a clear sunlight. The tossing of the trees and the blowing
+of the wind have ceased simultaneously. So I suppose there
+are still modern philosophers who will maintain that the trees
+make the wind.
+
+
+XIII
+
+The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw hat;
+with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers,
+but with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes.
+He was gazing with a rather gloomy interest at the cluster,
+one might almost say the tangle, of small shipping which grew thicker
+as our little pleasure boat crawled up into Yarmouth Harbour.
+A boat entering this harbour, as every one knows, does not
+enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps round
+at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear.
+The passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic,
+and in consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed
+under a timber ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens
+like a cathedral, the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden
+figurehead carved like a woman, and said, like one continuing
+a conversation, "Now, why have they left off having them.
+They didn't do any one any harm?"
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note.
+There has been something in our most recent civilisation which is
+mysteriously hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+"They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty," he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. "I believe they broke up all the jolly
+old figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it."
+
+"Like Mr. Quilp," I answered, "when he battered the wooden Admiral
+with the poker."
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time
+he stood erect and stared at me.
+
+"Do you come to Yarmouth for that?" he asked.
+
+"For what?"
+
+"For Dickens," he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+"No," I answered; "I come for fun, though that is much the same thing."
+
+"I always come," he answered quietly, "to find Peggotty's boat.
+It isn't here."
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred
+to the people who live there. I myself have never come
+to the end of the list of Batterseas. But there are two to
+the stranger and tourist; the poor part, which is dignified,
+and the prosperous part, which is savagely vulgar.
+My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost;
+to the latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+"The place is very much spoilt now . . . trippers, you know,"
+he would say, not at all scornfully, but simply sadly.
+That was the nearest he would go to an admission of the monstrous
+watering place that lay along the front, outblazing the sun,
+and more deafening than the sea. But behind--out of earshot
+of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that they seem
+like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose.
+There are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one
+of them is like plunging into a pool. In these places the man
+and I paced up and down talking about Dickens, or, rather,
+doing what all true Dickensians do, telling each other verbatim
+long passages which both of us knew quite well already.
+We were really in the atmosphere of the older England.
+Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters
+like Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and
+bought pipe-stoppers carved into figures from Pickwick.
+The evening was settling down between all the buildings
+with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when we went
+into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+"Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant
+for the angel at the sepulchre."
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+"I daresay," he said. "What is there odd about that?"
+
+After a pause I said, "Do you remember what the angel at
+the sepulchre said?"
+
+"Not particularly," he answered; "but where are you off
+to in such a hurry?"
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the
+fishermen's almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring
+indignantly where I was going.
+
+"I am going," I said, "to put pennies in automatic machines
+on the beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going
+to have my photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer
+out of its original bottle. I will buy some picture postcards.
+I do want a boat. I am ready to listen to a concertina,
+and but for the defects of my education should be ready to play it.
+I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is, if the donkey is willing.
+I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was commanded me
+by the angel in the stained-glass window."
+
+"I really think," said the Dickensian, "that I had better put
+you in charge of your relations."
+
+"Sir," I answered, "there are certain writers to whom humanity
+owes much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective
+a type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places
+or certain perishing associations. It would not be unnatural
+to look for the spirit of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill,
+or even for the shade of Thackeray in Old Kensington.
+But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for Dickens
+is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury,
+but he would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy,
+but it would be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it.
+We will not have all his books bound up under the title
+of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather we will have them
+all bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.'
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make
+something of it, swallow it with a holy cannibalism,
+and assimilate it with the digestion of a giant. We must
+take these trippers as he would have taken them, and tear
+out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember
+now what the angel said at the sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the
+living among the dead? He is not here; he is risen.'"
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands,
+which were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite
+desperate democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory,
+flung far over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic
+firelight of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure
+looked at once grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell.
+I heard a little girl (who was being throttled by another little girl)
+say by way of self-vindication, "My sister-in-law 'as got four rings
+aside her weddin' ring!"
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+XIV
+
+In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees
+and the secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world
+moving under the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor
+merely because I happened to be writing the article in a wood.
+Nevertheless, now that I return to Fleet Street (which seems to me,
+I confess, much better and more poetical than all the wild woods
+in the world), I am strangely haunted by this accidental comparison.
+The people's figures seem a forest and their soul a wind.
+All the human personalities which speak or signal to me seem to have
+this fantastic character of the fringe of the forest against the sky.
+That man that talks to me, what is he but an articulate tree?
+That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me to tell me
+to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches stirred
+and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can continue
+to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering
+my person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that
+blast of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy?
+Gradually this impression of the woods wears off. But this
+black-and-white contrast between the visible and invisible, this deep
+sense that the one essential belief is belief in the invisible as against
+the visible, is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind.
+Exactly at the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is,
+most bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet,
+on which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?"
+
+. . . . .
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well
+have turned upside down. The men in Fleet Street might
+have been walking about on their hands. The cross of
+St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside down.
+For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe
+that the waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say,
+they believe that the material circumstances, however black
+and twisted, are more important than the spiritual realities,
+however powerful and pure. "Should Shop Assistants Marry?" I am
+puzzled to think what some periods and schools of human history
+would have made of such a question. The ascetics of the East
+or of some periods of the early Church would have thought
+that the question meant, "Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster means.
+In some pagan cities it might have meant, "Shall slaves so vile
+as shop assistants even be allowed to propagate their abject race?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster meant.
+We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what it does mean.
+It does really mean that a section of the human race is asking
+whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are particularly
+good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether Adam
+and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove.
+If this is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be.
+We ask whether the universal institution will improve our
+(please God) temporary institution. Yet I have known many
+such questions. For instance, I have known a man ask seriously,
+"Does Democracy help the Empire?" Which is like saying,
+"Is art favourable to frescoes?"
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked.
+But if the world ever runs short of them, I can suggest
+a large number of questions of precisely the same kind,
+based on precisely the same principle.
+
+"Do Feet Improve Boots?"--"Is Bread Better when Eaten?"--"Should
+Hats have Heads in them?"--"Do People Spoil a Town?"--"Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?"--"Should Neckties enclose Necks?"--"Do Hands
+Hurt Walking-sticks?"--"Does Burning Destroy Firewood?"--"Is
+Cleanliness Good for Soap?"--"Can Cricket Really Improve
+Cricket-bats?"--"Shall We Take Brides with our Wedding Rings?"
+and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport
+or in intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from
+the purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by
+half of the earnest economists of our times. All the questions they
+ask are of this character; they are all tinged with this same initial
+absurdity. They do not ask if the means is suited to the end; they
+all ask (with profound and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited
+to the means. They do not ask whether the tail suits the dog.
+They all ask whether a dog is (by the highest artistic canons)
+the most ornamental appendage that can be put at the end of a tail.
+In short, instead of asking whether our modern arrangements,
+our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete institutions are
+suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy human life,
+they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments;
+and then they only ask whether that healthy human life is suited
+to our streets and trades. Perfection may be attainable or
+unattainable as an end. It may or may not be possible to talk
+of imperfection as a means to perfection. But surely it passes
+toleration to talk of perfection as a means to imperfection.
+The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream.
+But surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem
+is a reality on the road to Birmingham.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret
+of the modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought
+to be simple enough. A really human human being would always put
+the spiritual things first. A walking and speaking statue of God
+finds himself at one particular moment employed as a shop assistant.
+He has in himself a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity,
+a thirst for some loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary
+course of things he asks himself, "How far do the existing conditions
+of those assisting in shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny
+in the matter of love and marriage?" But here, as I have said,
+comes in the quiet and crushing power of modern materialism.
+It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he would otherwise do.
+By perpetually talking about environment and visible things,
+by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron
+machinery and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of
+towers of stone, modern materialism at last produces this
+tremendous impression in which the truth is stated upside down.
+At last the result is achieved. The man does not say as
+he ought to have said, "Should married men endure being modern
+shop assistants?" The man says, "Should shop assistants marry?"
+Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism.
+The slave does not say, "Are these chains worthy of me?"
+The slave says scientifically and contentedly, "Am I even worthy
+of these chains?"
+
+
+XV
+
+What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have
+made the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat,
+with an astracan moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache.
+Whether he put on the moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic
+will enabled him not only to grow a moustache in the usual place,
+but also to grow little moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know.
+I only remember that he said to me the following words: "A man can't
+get on nowadays by hanging about with his hands in his pockets."
+I made reply with the quite obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got
+on by having his hands in other people's pockets; whereupon he began
+to argue about Moral Evolution, so I suppose what I said had some
+truth in it. But the incident now comes back to me, and connects
+itself with another incident--if you can call it an incident--
+which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I
+had at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief;
+I had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets
+are still there; the same presumption applies to the things
+that I have dropped into the sea. But I regard the riches stored
+in both these bottomless chasms with the same reverent ignorance.
+They tell us that on the last day the sea will give up its dead;
+and I suppose that on the same occasion long strings of
+extraordinary things will come running out of my pockets.
+But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all
+surprised at finding among them.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence.
+I here only wish briefly to recall the special, extraordinary,
+and hitherto unprecedented circumstances which led me in
+cold blood, and being of sound mind, to turn out my pockets.
+I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a rather long journey.
+The time was towards evening, but it might have been anything,
+for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting
+sheet of quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers.
+I had not even a pencil and a scrap of paper with which
+to write a religious epic. There were no advertisements
+on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could have plunged
+into the study, for any collection of printed words is quite
+enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity.
+When I find myself opposite the words "Sunlight Soap" I can
+exhaust all the aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer
+poetry before I go on to the less congenial subject of soap.
+But there was no printed word or picture anywhere; there was
+nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank wet without.
+Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can
+be, uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats,
+and began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood.
+Just as I had begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ
+was a carpenter, rather than a bricklayer, or a baker,
+or anything else, I suddenly started upright, and remembered
+my pockets. I was carrying about with me an unknown treasury.
+I had a British Museum and a South Kensington collection
+of unknown curios hung all over me in different places.
+I began to take the things out.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of
+Battersea tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase.
+They shook down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course,
+they touched my patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes;
+also they provided me with the printed matter I required,
+for I found on the back of them some short but striking
+little scientific essays about some kind of pill. Comparatively
+speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might be regarded
+as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my railway
+journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a few months
+longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the controversial
+aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro and con
+upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the
+cross of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper
+meant all that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the
+greatest hope of England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife,
+I need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral
+meditations all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most
+primary of those practical origins upon which as upon low,
+thick pillows all our human civilisation reposes. Metals, the
+mystery of the thing called iron and of the thing called steel,
+led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream. I saw into the
+intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among all the
+common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth.
+I saw all the swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war.
+For the knife is only a short sword; and the pocket-knife
+is a secret sword. I opened it and looked at that brilliant
+and terrible tongue which we call a blade; and I thought that
+perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs of man.
+The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing
+that came next out of my pocket was a box of matches.
+Then I saw fire, which is stronger even than steel, the old,
+fierce female thing, the thing we all love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw
+in it all the art and all the frescoes of the world.
+The next was a coin of a very modest value; and I saw in it
+not only the image and superscription of our own Caesar,
+but all government and order since the world began.
+But I have not space to say what were the items in the long and
+splendid procession of poetical symbols that came pouring out.
+I cannot tell you all the things that were in my pocket.
+I can tell you one thing, however, that I could not find in my pocket.
+I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+XVI
+
+The Dragon's Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales.
+I do not mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated
+in them--that he did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into
+a coach. He did, indeed, entertain this curious disbelief.
+And, like all the other people I have ever met who entertained it,
+he was wholly unable to give me an intelligent reason for it.
+He tried the laws of nature, but he soon dropped that.
+Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary experience,
+and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted pumpkinity.
+But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply
+the attitude we adopt towards all unusual occurrences.
+If we were certain of miracles we should not count on them.
+Things that happen very seldom we all leave out of
+our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not.
+I do not expect a glass of water to be turned into wine;
+but neither do I expect a glass of water to be poisoned with
+prussic acid. I do not in ordinary business relations act
+on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but neither do I
+act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is
+not that the natural order is unalterable, but simply that it
+is much safer to bet on uncommon incidents than on common ones.
+This does not touch the credibility of any attested tale
+about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned into a coach.
+If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined
+to assume that the same thing would happen again. I should not
+invest largely in pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade.
+Cinderella got a ball dress from the fairy; but I do not suppose
+that she looked after her own clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened,
+though crazy, is common. The man I speak of disbelieved
+in fairy tales in an even more amazing and perverted sense.
+He actually thought that fairy tales ought not to be told
+to children. That is (like a belief in slavery or annexation)
+one of those intellectual errors which lie very near
+to ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which,
+though they may be done what is called conscientiously,
+yet carry so much of their whole horror in the very act of them,
+that a man must in doing them not only harden but slightly
+corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of milk to young
+mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too
+helpless even to find his way to the Church of England. He had a
+curious green necktie and a very long neck; I am always meeting
+idealists with very long necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal
+aspiration slowly lifts their heads nearer and nearer to the stars.
+Or perhaps it has something to do with the fact that so many of
+them are vegetarians: perhaps they are slowly evolving the neck of
+the giraffe so that they can eat all the tops of the trees in
+Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense above me.
+Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy tales;
+and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had
+begun to read "Grimm's Fairy tales" as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was "Suburban Sue: A Tale
+of Psychology," and also "Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia";
+there was "Trixy: A Temperament," and "Man-Hate: A Monochrome," and all
+those nice things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough,
+I grew tired of them at last, and when I saw "Grimm's Fairy Tales"
+lying accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy.
+Here at least, here at last, one could find a little common sense.
+I opened the book, and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying
+words, "The Dragon's Grandmother." That at least was reasonable;
+that at least was true. "The Dragon's Grandmother!" While I was
+rolling this first touch of ordinary human reality upon my tongue,
+I looked up suddenly and saw this monster with a green tie standing
+in the doorway.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough,
+I hope; but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe
+in fairy tales, I broke out beyond control. "Man," I said,
+"who are you that you should not believe in fairy tales?
+It is much easier to believe in Blue Beard than to believe in you.
+A blue beard is a misfortune; but there are green ties which are sins.
+It is far easier to believe in a million fairy tales
+than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales.
+I would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all
+his stories as if they were thirty-nine articles than say
+seriously and out of my heart that there can be such a man as you;
+that you are not some temptation of the devil or some delusion
+from the void. Look at these plain, homely, practical words.
+'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all right; that is rational
+almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was a dragon,
+he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother!
+If you had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales.
+You had no father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you.
+You cannot be. I believe many things which I have not seen;
+but of such things as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he that has
+seen and yet has disbelieved.'"
+
+. . . . .
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy,
+so I moderated my tone. "Can you not see," I said, "that fairy
+tales in their essence are quite solid and straightforward;
+but that this everlasting fiction about modern life is in its
+nature essentially incredible? Folk-lore means that the soul
+is sane, but that the universe is wild and full of marvels.
+Realism means that the world is dull and full of routine, but that
+the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the fairy tale is--
+what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The problem
+of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins,
+and suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos.
+In the excellent tale of 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other
+tales of Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his
+travels will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave,
+full of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents,
+keep his word, rescue one kind of people, defy another kind,
+'parcere subjectis et debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed
+this centre of sanity, the writer entertains himself by fancying
+what would happen if the whole world went mad all round it,
+if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses had six legs
+and giants had two heads. But your modern literature takes insanity
+as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of insanity.
+A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite serious;
+that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is
+a piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass.
+A man who thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken.
+It is only sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity.
+Therefore, these wise old tales made the hero ordinary and
+the tale extraordinary. But you have made the hero extraordinary
+and the tale ordinary--so ordinary--oh, so very ordinary."
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me
+under the hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, "In the name
+of God and Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother--in the name of all
+good things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more."
+Whether or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt
+that he definitely went away.
+
+
+XVII
+
+The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him
+I can never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest
+letter saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even
+if they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy
+tales, because it frightens them. You might just as well say that
+it is cruel to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry.
+All this kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting
+of what a child is like which has been the firm foundation
+of so many educational schemes. If you keep bogies and goblins
+away from children they would make them up for themselves.
+One small child in the dark can invent more hells than Swedenborg.
+One small child can imagine monsters too big and black
+to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly
+and cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic.
+The child, to begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he
+continues to indulge in them even when he does not like them.
+There is just as much difficulty in saying exactly where pure
+pain begins in his case, as there is in ours when we walk of our
+own free will into the torture-chamber of a great tragedy.
+The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable;
+they are alarmed at this world, because this world is a very
+alarming place. They dislike being alone because it is verily
+and indeed an awful idea to be alone. Barbarians fear
+the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics worship it--
+because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear;
+fairy tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly;
+that is in the child already, because it is in the world already.
+Fairy tales do not give the child his first idea of bogey.
+What fairy tales give the child is his first clear idea
+of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby has known
+the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination.
+What the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to
+kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him
+for a series of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless
+terrors had a limit, that these shapeless enemies have enemies
+in the knights of God, that there is something in the universe
+more mystical than darkness, and stronger than strong fear.
+When I was a child I have stared at the darkness until the whole
+black bulk of it turned into one negro giant taller than heaven.
+If there was one star in the sky it only made him a Cyclops.
+But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite
+equal dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself
+(of similar inexperience and even lower social status)
+by means of a sword, some bad riddles, and a brave heart.
+Sometimes the sea at night seemed as dreadful as any dragon.
+But then I was acquainted with many youngest sons and little
+sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery,
+the excellent tale of the "Boy who Could not Shudder," and you
+will see what I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale.
+I remember specially a man's legs which fell down the chimney
+by themselves and walked about the room, until they were rejoined
+by the severed head and body which fell down the chimney after them.
+That is very good. But the point of the story and the point
+of the reader's feelings is not that these things are frightening,
+but the far more striking fact that the hero was not frightened at them.
+The most fearful of all these fearful wonders was his own absence
+of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked the devils
+to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled with some
+modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his spirit.
+If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it;
+it is the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught
+to shudder by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him.
+In that one sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage
+than in all the books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd and
+St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone.
+For the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in
+the universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted;
+but the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied.
+As I told "H. N. B." (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its
+most superstitious sense), the one thing modern people really do
+believe in is damnation. The greatest of purely modern poets summed
+up the really modern attitude in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+"There may be Heaven; there must be Hell."
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition;
+and the new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin
+by being gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits.
+Now they are beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they
+should make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion.
+For almost all the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new,
+is solemn and sad. Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian
+saints were a little too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism
+are both lawless and serious--a disgusting combination. The specially
+contemporary spirits are not only devils, they are blue devils.
+This is, first and last, the real value of Christmas; in so far
+as the mythology remains at all it is a kind of happy mythology.
+Personally, of course, I believe in Santa Claus; but it is the season
+of forgiveness, and I will forgive others for not doing so.
+But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the defect in our
+world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for instance,
+to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called "The Turn of the Screw."
+It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is one
+of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to have
+been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of
+the foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether
+Mr. Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent,
+do not buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question
+so doubtful that I will give that truly great man a chance.
+I will approve the thing as well as admire it if he will write
+another tale just as powerful about two children and Santa Claus.
+If he will not, or cannot, then the conclusion is clear; we can
+deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not with happy mystery;
+we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil.
+That is exactly what I mean.
+
+
+XVIII
+
+The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought
+(though not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies
+of architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve
+the one startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts.
+But this sort of sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy
+and energy of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most
+prosaic landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings.
+Here Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable.
+Here the fields are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand,
+the streets and roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind.
+The waters of wood and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly
+as if they were in the London water-pipes. But the parish
+pump is carved with all the creatures out of the wilderness.
+Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of wild animals,
+but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music that are
+more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast at night.
+And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their strength,
+seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the primal mire,
+and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a startled bird.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit
+in humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only
+man who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man
+is ever undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who
+are wild. And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to
+all human art, it is also generally characteristic of Christian art
+among the arts of the world. This is what people really mean when
+they say that Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance.
+As a matter of historic fact, it didn't; it arose in the most
+equably civilised period the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks
+the outline of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots
+with anger the blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry
+charge the horses of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage,
+in the sense that it is primeval; there is in it a touch
+of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate in which I had praised
+militant music in ritual, and some one asked me if I could
+imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ
+definitely approved a natural noisiness at a great moment.
+When the street children shouted too loud, certain priggish
+disciples did begin to rebuke them in the name of good taste.
+He said: "If these were silent the very stones would cry out."
+With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words
+He founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this,
+which seems to have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves,
+anywhere and anyhow, any odd brick or moulding may be carved off
+into a shouting face. The front of vast buildings is thronged
+with open mouths, angels praising God, or devils defying Him.
+Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to scream.
+The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable
+in the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant
+things in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All
+Christian temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges
+Belfry is a gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like
+a giraffe. The same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind
+at every corner of a Flemish town. And if any one asks,
+"Why did the people of these flat countries instinctively raise
+these riotous and towering monuments?" the only answer one can
+give is, "Because they were the people of these flat countries."
+If any one asks, "Why the men of Bruges sacrificed architecture
+and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?"
+we can only answer, "Because Nature gave them no encouragement
+to do so."
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some
+of my friends in London who are quite sure of how children will
+turn out if you give them what they call "the right environment."
+It is a troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works
+positively and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two.
+A beautiful environment may make a child love beauty;
+it may make him bored with beauty; most likely the two effects
+will mix and neutralise each other. Most likely, that is,
+the environment will make hardly any difference at all.
+In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries
+that had owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country
+is hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold;
+Englishmen naval because they are islanders; Switzers free
+because they are mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way.
+Only unfortunately I am quite certain that I could make up quite
+as long a list exactly contrary in its argument point-blank
+against the influence of their geographical environment.
+Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than Scandinavians
+because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as
+bravely as Switzers because the Dutch have no mountains.
+Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many Mediterranean peoples have
+specially hated the sea because they had the nicest sea to deal with,
+the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the list for ever.
+But however long it was, two examples would certainly stand up in it
+as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the Swiss,
+who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far
+the most mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe.
+The other is that the people of Belgium, who live in a country
+like a carpet, have, by an inner energy, desired to exalt their
+towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment,
+I cannot comfort myself with the thought that the modern
+discussions about environment are of much practical value.
+But I think I will not write any more about these modern
+theories, but go on looking at the Belfry of Bruges. I would
+give them the greater attention if I were not pretty well
+convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+XIX
+
+How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making
+a bright suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not,
+I regret to say, received with the seriousness it deserved.
+I suggested that a band of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves,
+should express our sense of the pathos of the President's and
+the Republic's fate by growing Kruger beards under our chins.
+I imagined how abruptly this decoration would alter the appearance
+of Mr. John Morley; how startling it would be as it emerged from under
+the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But the younger men, my own friends,
+on whom I more particularly urged it, men whose names are in many cases
+familiar to the readers of this paper--Mr. Masterman's for instance,
+and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt, being young and beautiful,
+would do even more justice to the Kruger beard, and when walking
+down the street with it could not fail to attract attention.
+The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to the Rhodes hat.
+An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in Africa
+is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat;
+the Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing
+like a beard; we have shaved it, and it is growing again.
+The Kruger beard would represent time and the natural processes.
+You cannot grow a beard in a moment of passion.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town.
+I went down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards
+an election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for
+the Liberal candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in.
+I sometimes lie awake at night and meditate upon that mystery;
+but it must not detain us now. The rather singular incident
+which happened to me then, and which some recent events have
+recalled to me, happened while the canvassing was still going on.
+It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine, settling everywhere
+on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out into a kind
+of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if
+the bushes and the roads were human, and had kindness like men;
+as if the tree were a good giant with one wooden leg;
+as if the very line of palings were a row of good-tempered gnomes.
+On one side of the white, sprawling road a low hill or down
+showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the other the land
+tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip hills.
+The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful
+and beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon
+a low white building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows,
+evidently not inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--
+a thing more like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind.
+Made idle by the heat, I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk
+out of my pocket, began drawing aimlessly on the back door--
+drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain, and finally the ideal
+Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials did not permit
+of any delicate rendering of his noble and national expansion
+of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for man,
+and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy,
+I was frozen to the spot with terror. The black door,
+which I thought no more of than the lid of an empty box,
+began slowly to open, impelled from within by a human hand.
+And President Kruger himself came out into the sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled
+the Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes,
+there was the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger
+beard which I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under
+the features of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I
+was too much emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone
+lions with him, or Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark
+shed I cannot imagine, but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger
+in Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in
+the neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me.
+Mr. Kruger regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye,
+and then addressed me with a strong Somersetshire accent.
+A curious cold shock went through me to hear that inappropriate voice
+coming out of that familiar form. It was as if you met a Chinaman,
+with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he began to talk broad Scotch.
+But the next moment, of course, I understood the situation.
+We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the Boer
+education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot
+against our island home, the terrible President had learnt not
+only English, but all the dialects at a moment's notice to win
+over a Lancashire merchant or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier.
+No doubt, if I asked him, this stout old gentleman could
+grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk, and so on,
+like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if our plain,
+true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so penetrated
+with culture as this.
+
+. . . . .
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all
+that this strange old man gave me. When he asked me,
+dryly enough, but not without a certain steady civility
+that belongs to old-fashioned country people, what I wanted
+and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities
+of the Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became
+suddenly transfigured in the sunlight into a devil of wrath.
+It was some time before I could understand a word he said,
+but the one word that kept on recurring was the word "Kruger,"
+and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of violent terms.
+Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want him
+to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was . . . and
+here he became once more obscure. The one thing that he made
+quite clear was that he wouldn't do anything for Kruger.
+
+"But you ARE Kruger," burst from my lips, in a natural explosion
+of reasonableness. "You ARE Kruger, aren't you?"
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first
+there would be a fight, and I remembered with regret that
+the President in early life had had a hobby of killing lions.
+But really I began to think that I had been mistaken, and that it
+was not the President after all. There was a confounding sincerity
+in the anger with which he declared that he was Farmer Bowles,
+and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually and parted
+from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me with a few
+tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of his identity.
+In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an illustrated
+paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer Bowles
+were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group
+of Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant,
+were perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed
+to me like the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll,
+when he drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze
+with the blue Tory ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his
+colours everywhere. It was evening, and the warm western light was
+on the grey hair and heavy massive features of that good old man.
+I knew as one knows a fact of sense that if Spanish and German
+stockbrokers had flooded his farm or country he would
+have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an Irishman,
+but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the Boer.
+I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his
+cross against the Conservative name. Then he came out again,
+having given his vote and looking more like Kruger than ever.
+And at the same hour on the same night thousands upon thousands
+of English Krugers gave the same vote. And thus Kruger was
+pulled down and the dark-faced men in the photograph reigned
+in his stead.
+
+
+XX
+
+The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is great.
+All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks.
+At least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work
+by night (journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers,
+and such mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning)
+must often have stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown
+of battlements or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at
+daybreak to discover that it was only a haberdasher's shop with huge
+gold letters across the face of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight.
+I sat down on a bench with my back to the river, happening to
+choose such a place that a huge angle and facade of building
+jutting out from the Strand sat above me like an incubus.
+I dare say that if I took the same seat to-morrow by daylight I
+should find the impression entirely false. In sunlight the thing
+might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness it seemed
+as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have I
+had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth.
+That pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above
+and beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb.
+I had an irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I
+had to fight it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion
+but an indolent journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black,
+blind face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge
+face of a sleeping giant; the eyes were too close together,
+and gave it the suggestion of a bestial sneer. And either
+by accident of this light or of some other, I could now read
+the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything
+that I should like to pull down with my hands if I could.
+Reared by a detected robber, it is framed to be the fashionable
+and luxurious home of undetected robbers. In the house of man
+are many mansions; but there is a class of men who feel normal
+nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or in Dartmoor Gaol.
+That big black face, which was staring at me with its flaming
+eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer;
+the hour had come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again
+(I had had one wild impulse to climb up the front of the hotel
+and fall in at one of the windows), and I tried to think,
+as all decent people are thinking, what one can really do.
+And all the time that oppressive wall went up in front of me,
+and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been
+the defeated who have won. The people who were left
+worst at the end of the war were generally the people
+who were left best at the end of the whole business.
+For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the Christians.
+But they did not end in the decline of the Christians;
+they ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave
+of Moslem power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns
+of Christendom, that wave was broken, and never came on again.
+The Crusaders had saved Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem.
+The same applies to that epic of Republican war in the eighteenth
+century to which we Liberals owe our political creed.
+The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came back
+across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had
+lost its last battle; but it had gained its first object.
+It had cut a chasm. The world has never been the same since.
+No one after that has ever been able to treat the poor merely
+as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere
+stones of the street; but as stones that may sometimes fly.
+If it please God, you and I may see some of the stones
+flying again before we see death. But here I only remark
+the interesting fact that the conquered almost always conquer.
+Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds.
+The Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment;
+it deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock
+and jar the unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil;
+just as a pebble on a railway can stagger the Scotch express.
+It is enough for the great martyrs and criminals of the French revolution,
+that they have surprised for all time the secret weakness of the strong.
+They have awakened and set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever
+the coward in the hearts of kings.
+
+. . . . .
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his
+experience was not such as has been generally supposed.
+If you care to hear it I will tell you the real story of Jack
+the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the most awful thing which Jack
+first felt about the giant was that he was not a giant.
+He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and against
+its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a figure
+in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man
+was treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain.
+The man came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger,
+and at the instant when he passed the possible stature of humanity
+Jack almost screamed. The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle;
+the more he became incredible the more he became solid.
+The less one could believe in him the more plainly one could see him.
+It was unbearable that so much of the sky should be occupied
+by one human face. His eyes, which had stood out like bow windows,
+became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that could
+contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes.
+Jack's intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism
+of the face that filled the sky; his last hope was submerged,
+his five wits all still with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of dead
+honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his hand.
+He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and when
+he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a cave.
+Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant on it
+with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the hilt,
+and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant felt
+a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great hand
+for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and stared
+at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw
+him away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were
+flying from system to system through the universe of stars.
+But, as the giant had thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike
+a stone, but struck soft mire by the side of a distant river.
+There he lay insensible for several hours; but when he awoke again
+his horrible conqueror was still in sight. He was striding away
+across the void and wooded plain towards where it ended in the sea;
+and by this time he was only much higher than any of the hills.
+He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really high mountain
+grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway train.
+Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic.
+Then the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big
+blue sea, and even as it did so it altered its attitude.
+Jack, stunned and bleeding, lifted himself laboriously upon one
+elbow to stare. The giant once more caught hold of his ankle,
+wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over into the great sea
+which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all things God
+has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+XXI
+
+A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has
+always seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing
+away the veils from private life; but it seems to me to be always
+dropping diaphanous but blinding veils between men and men.
+The Yellow Press is abused for exposing facts which are private;
+I wish the Yellow Press did anything so valuable. It is exactly
+the decisive individual touches that it never gives; and a proof of this
+is that after one has met a man a million times in the newspapers it
+is always a complete shock and reversal to meet him in real life.
+The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of catching the first
+fresh fact about a man that dominates all after impressions.
+For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that he spoke with
+a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of sentiment;
+but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other
+criticisms put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out
+private personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities
+on the surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression
+of this kind which we have all felt when we met great poets
+or politicians, but which never finds its way into the newspapers.
+I mean the impression that they are much older than we thought they were.
+We connect great men with their great triumphs, which generally
+happened some years ago, and many recruits enthusiastic for the thin
+Napoleon of Marengo must have found themselves in the presence
+of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising politician
+confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of boyhood.
+It described how his "brave young voice" rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose:
+all this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once
+met a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening.
+It was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set
+an instant after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened
+and the road sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents;
+I felt that the treetops that closed above me were the fixed
+and real things, certain as the level of the sea; but that
+the solid earth was every instant failing under my feet.
+In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in splashes,
+like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky.
+Around me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every
+plain or twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns
+of every earthly and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature
+of the forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force.
+For the meaning of woods is the combination of energy with complexity.
+A forest is not in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense
+with delicacy. Unique shapes that an artist would copy or a
+philosopher watch for years if he found them in an open plain are
+here mingled and confounded; but it is not a darkness of deformity.
+It is a darkness of life; a darkness of perfection. And I began
+to think how much of the highest human obscurity is like this,
+and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell you,
+for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate;
+it is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+. . . . .
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out
+into deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the
+evening was so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a
+sunset all to itself. I went along that road according to directions
+that had been given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling
+beyond which the wood changed only faintly to a garden.
+It was as if the curious courtesy and fineness of that character
+I was to meet went out from him upon the valley; for I felt
+on all these things the finger of that quality which the old
+English called "faerie"; it is the quality which those can
+never understand who think of the past as merely brutal;
+it is an ancient elegance such as there is in trees.
+I went through the garden and saw an old man sitting by a table,
+looking smallish in his big chair. He was already an invalid,
+and his hair and beard were both white; not like snow, for snow
+is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even fierce;
+rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand,
+and I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young.
+He was the one great man of the old world whom I have met
+who was not a mere statue over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about
+the books he had written; he was far too much alive for that.
+He talked about the books he had not written. He unrolled
+a purple bundle of romances which he had never had time to sell.
+He asked me to write one of the stories for him, as he would
+have asked the milkman, if he had been talking to the milkman.
+It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort of astronomical farce.
+It was all about a man who was rushing up to the Royal Society
+with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying comet;
+and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities;
+how he lost a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling.
+That is only one of them; there were ten or twenty more.
+Another, I dimly remember, was a version of the fall of Parnell;
+the idea that a quite honest man might be secret from a pure love
+of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went out of that garden with a
+blurred sensation of the million possibilities of creative literature.
+The feeling increased as my way fell back into the wood; for a wood
+is a palace with a million corridors that cross each other everywhere.
+I really had the feeling that I had seen the creative quality;
+which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls the Old Man
+of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind my path;
+I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+XXII
+
+The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert
+that the love of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them;
+and so, perhaps, it would, if they had it. There is a very real
+thing which may be called the love of humanity; in our time it
+exists almost entirely among what are called uneducated people;
+and it does not exist at all among the people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being
+is chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday;
+that is why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances)
+than any other part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty
+train at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them;
+they all got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the
+train entirely empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is
+the definite pleasure in the immediate proximity of one's own kind.
+Only this coarse, rank, real love of men seems to be entirely
+lacking in those who propose the love of humanity as a substitute
+for all other love; honourable, rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked
+the sudden starting of that train; all the factory girls
+who could not find seats (and they must have been the majority)
+relieving their feelings by jumping up and down. Now I have never
+seen any rationalistic idealists do this. I have never seen twenty
+modern philosophers crowd into one third-class carriage for the
+mere pleasure of being together. I have never seen twenty Mr.
+McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun
+all beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches.
+But their fear is unreasonable; because trippers always
+prefer to trip together; they pack as close as they can;
+they have a suffocating passion of philanthropy.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle,
+I have no hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber.
+Before any modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist
+(I insist with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased
+when his barber tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity:
+let him love that. If he is not pleased at this, I will not accept any
+substitute in the way of interest in the Congo or the future of Japan.
+If a man cannot love his barber whom he has seen, how shall he love
+the Japanese whom he has not seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about
+the weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest.
+It is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him;
+he is blamed because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist,
+and because, being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave.
+But the only proof of such things is by example; therefore I will prove
+the excellence of the conversation of barbers by a specific case.
+Lest any one should accuse me of attempting to prove it by fictitious
+means, I beg to say quite seriously that though I forget the exact
+language employed, the following conversation between me and a human
+(I trust), living barber really took place a few days ago.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers,
+and lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out of
+the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get shaved.
+While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+"There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir.
+It seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone
+or a pole or a poker" (here I began for the first time to detect
+a sarcastic intonation) "or a shovel or a----"
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about
+the matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+"Or a button-hook," I said, "or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram
+or a piston-rod----"
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, "Or a curtain rod
+or a candle-stick, or a----"
+
+"Cow-catcher," I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic duet
+for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told me.
+He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+"The funny part of it is," he said, "that the thing isn't new at all.
+It's been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before.
+There is always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow.
+But none of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe
+myself that this will."
+
+"Why, as to that," I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying
+to put on my coat inside out, "I don't know how it may be in the case
+of you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you,
+is a trivial and materialistic thing, and in such things
+startling inventions are sometimes made. But what you say
+reminds me in some dark and dreamy fashion of something else.
+I recall it especially when you tell me, with such evident
+experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not really new.
+My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of making
+everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts off
+one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil
+of preparing a man's chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil
+of preparing something very curious to put on a man's chin.
+It would be nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody.
+It would be nicer still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ "'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+
+"Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+"In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written
+that a man shall not eat his cake and have it; and though
+all men talked until the stars were old it would still be true
+that a man who has lost his razor could not shave with it.
+But every now and then men jump up with the new something
+or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there
+is no real difference between being shaved and not being shaved.
+The difference, they say, is only a difference of degree;
+everything is evolutionary and relative. Shavedness is
+immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is a Potential Razor.
+The superstitious people of the past (they say) believed that
+a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to one's
+face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches
+us better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow
+where Shaving should be.
+
+"Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something.
+But a baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby
+he will know whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing
+up being shaved and being saved; my democratic sympathies have
+always led me to drop my 'h's.' In another moment I may suggest
+that goats represent the lost because goats have long beards.
+This is growing altogether too allegorical.
+
+"Nevertheless," I added, as I paid the bill, "I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving.
+Have you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?"
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+XXIII
+
+The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys
+takes so very much more time and trouble than anything else.
+Playing as children mean playing is the most serious thing in the world;
+and as soon as we have small duties or small sorrows we have to
+abandon to some extent so enormous and ambitious a plan of life.
+We have enough strength for politics and commerce and art and philosophy;
+we have not enough strength for play. This is a truth which every one
+will recognize who, as a child, has ever played with anything at all;
+any one who has played with bricks, any one who has played with dolls,
+any one who has played with tin soldiers. My journalistic work,
+which earns money, is not pursued with such awful persistency as that
+work which earned nothing.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow
+in twelve volumes (it would be just like you) on "The Theory
+and Practice of European Architecture," your work may be laborious,
+but it is fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work
+of a child piling one brick on the other is serious; for the simple
+reason that if your book is a bad book no one will ever be able
+ultimately and entirely to prove to you that it is a bad book.
+Whereas if his balance of bricks is a bad balance of bricks,
+it will simply tumble down. And if I know anything of children,
+he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it up again.
+Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce you
+to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you
+could help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after
+a child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play
+as idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol
+has actually become more important than the human reality which it was,
+I suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: "I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending
+to be my dolly." Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had
+been a substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute
+for a doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such
+devotion takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if
+it were really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point
+is that the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist;
+the child playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: "This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his being
+short of stores." The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey's activity was due to his being short of stores.
+Otherwise he would have stood quite still while he was chased.
+I run after Jones with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries
+to get rid of me the only possible explanation is that he has
+a very small balance at his bankers. I cannot believe that any boy
+playing at soldiers would be as idiotic as this. But then any one
+playing at anything has to be serious. Whereas, as I have only too
+good reason to know, if you are writing an article you can say anything
+that comes into your head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's
+games is, generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure
+in them; it is simply that they have no leisure for them.
+It is that they cannot afford the expenditure of toil
+and time and consideration for so grand and grave a scheme.
+I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre
+that used to be called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured;
+only that I drew and coloured the figures and scenes myself.
+Hence I was free from the degrading obligation of having to pay
+either a penny or twopence; I only had to pay a shilling a sheet
+for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad water colours.
+The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar to every one;
+it is never more than a development of the stage which Skelt
+made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I
+ever worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work
+seems too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself
+to lighter employments; such as the biographies of great men.
+The play of "St. George and the Dragon," over which I have burnt
+the midnight oil (you must colour the thing by lamplight because
+that is how it will be seen), still lacks most conspicuously,
+alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace, and also some comprehensible
+and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours.
+But it is partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble.
+If I am ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have
+enough time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I
+shall have enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play
+in them without a hitch.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need
+to learn could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered,
+it reminds us of the main principle of art, the principle which
+is in most danger of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact
+that art consists of limitation; the fact that art is limitation.
+Art does not consist in expanding things. Art consists of cutting
+things down, as I cut down with a pair of scissors my very ugly
+figures of St. George and the Dragon. Plato, who liked definite
+ideas, would like my cardboard dragon; for though the creature has
+few other artistic merits he is at least dragonish. The modern
+philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome to a sheet of
+the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the theatrical
+art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing through
+a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even at
+the Court Theatre or His Majesty's you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small
+theatre exactly is that you are looking through a small window.
+Has not every one noticed how sweet and startling any
+landscape looks when seen through an arch? This strong,
+square shape, this shutting off of everything else is not
+only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential of beauty.
+The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing
+the scale of events it can introduce much larger events.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the Day of Judgment.
+Exactly in so far as it is limited, so far it could play easily
+with falling cities or with falling stars. Meanwhile the big
+theatres are obliged to be economical because they are big.
+When we have understood this fact we shall have understood something
+of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier
+into the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia.
+In the narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room
+for Purgatory and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled
+by the British Empire. Great empires are necessarily prosaic;
+for it is beyond human power to act a great poem upon so great a scale.
+You can only represent very big ideas in very small spaces.
+My toy theatre is as philosophical as the drama of Athens.
+
+
+XXIV
+
+A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been
+long and pleasant, but--perhaps for that very reason--
+I feel that the time has come when I ought to confess
+the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time ago;
+but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse
+to reveal such dark episodes long after they have occurred.
+It has nothing to do with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League.
+That body is so offensively respectable that a newspaper,
+in describing it the other day, referred to my friend
+Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is
+not by the conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton,
+of the Rev. James Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that
+fine and virile old ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish
+(or rather, am driven by my conscience) to make this declaration.
+The crime was committed in solitude and without accomplices.
+Alone I did it. Let me, with the characteristic thirst
+of penitents to get the worst of the confession over, state it
+first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he
+has died of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper
+to whom I still owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant
+knowing that I owed him twopence. I carried it away under his
+nose, despite the fact that the nose was a decidedly Jewish one.
+I have never paid him, and it is highly improbable that I ever shall.
+How did this villainy come to occur in a life which has been,
+generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity necessary for fraud?
+The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though there
+may not be room for that.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that
+the easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy.
+The most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities.
+The reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint.
+How, for instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would
+be called a "scuttle"? If he has ever seen the word scuttle
+it has been in the Jingo Press, where the "policy of scuttle"
+is used whenever we give up something to a small Power like Liberals,
+instead of giving up everything to a great Power, like Imperialists.
+What Englishman in Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans
+call a glove a "hand-shoe." Nations name their necessities by nicknames,
+so to speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish,
+and almost affectionate names, as if they were their own children!
+But any one can argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has
+ever got as far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can
+put a sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract
+or philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations.
+They are the same, for the simple reason that they all come
+from the things that were the roots of our common civilisation.
+From Christianity, from the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church,
+or the French Revolution. "Nation," "citizen," "religion," "philosophy,"
+"authority," "the Republic," words like these are nearly the same
+in all the countries in which we travel. Restrain, therefore,
+your exuberant admiration for the young man who can argue with six
+French atheists when he first lands at Dieppe. Even I can do that.
+But very likely the same young man does not know the French for a
+shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there are three great exceptions.
+(1) In the case of countries that are not European at all, and have
+never had our civic conceptions, or the old Latin scholarship.
+I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for "citizenship"
+at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for "the Republic"
+has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of Germany,
+where, although the principle does apply to many words such as "nation"
+and "philosophy," it does not apply so generally, because Germany
+has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the purely
+German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not know
+any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed
+my crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned
+were combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German.
+I knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which
+hold our European civilisation together--one of which is "cigar."
+As it was a hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort
+of beer-garden, and ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the
+lager, and paid for it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it,
+and walked away, gazing rapturously at the royal outline of the
+Taunus mountains. After about ten minutes, I suddenly remembered
+that I had not paid for the cigar. I went back to the place of
+refreshment, and put down the money. But the proprietor also had
+forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural things in a tone
+of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said "cigar," and
+he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the money to
+wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that my
+rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular cigar,
+and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture
+that my rejection was a rejection of cigars in general,
+not of that particular article. He mistook this for the ordinary
+impatience of common men, and rushed forward, his hands
+filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing them upon me.
+In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the more
+cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars
+were brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment.
+I tried in vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact
+that I had already had the cigar. I imitated the action
+of a citizen smoking, knocking off and throwing away a cigar.
+The watchful proprietor only thought I was rehearsing
+(as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar
+he was going to give me. At last I retired baffled:
+he would not take the money and leave the cigars alone.
+So that this restaurant-keeper (in whose face a love of money
+shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and firmly refused
+to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and I took
+that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months.
+I hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth
+very gently to that unhappy man.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud,
+and the moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded
+upon abstractions. The idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed
+by physical motions at all, because it is an abstract idea.
+And civilisation obviously would be nothing without debt.
+So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific sociology
+(which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation
+is material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves
+how many of the things that make up our Society, the Law,
+or the Stocks and Shares, or the National Debt, you would be
+able to convey with your face and your ten fingers by grinning
+and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+XXV
+
+A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there
+lies a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue,
+but of eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present
+writer to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws
+and customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day.
+It is not Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some
+sympathy with the Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath,
+and that for three reasons; first, that religion is an intrinsically
+sympathetic thing; second, that I cannot conceive any religion
+worth calling a religion without a fixed and material observance;
+and third, that the particular observance of sitting still and doing
+no work is one that suits my temperament down to the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it
+does not let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him
+up when it has forced him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism
+does not forbid us to ask a man in Battersea to come and talk
+in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his getting there.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with joys,
+with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows.
+But I cannot imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences.
+Let the good Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent,
+according to his feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah
+cannot see anything particularly dignified in his servant being
+misled by the time-table, finding that the old Mecca express is
+not running, missing his connection at Bagdad, or having to wait
+three hours in a small side station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak
+thread of train-service. Now if this had been the authority
+of real English religion, I should have submitted to it at once.
+If I believed that the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram
+because he was at that moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer,
+I should think all telegrams unimportant in comparison.
+If I could believe that railway porters when relieved from their
+duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of worship,
+I should say that all lectures and everything else ought
+to give way to such a consideration. I should not complain
+if the national faith forbade me to make any appointments
+of labour or self-expression on the Sabbath. But, as it is,
+it only tells me that I may very probably keep the Sabbath
+by not keeping the appointment.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there
+was only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could
+even get within several hours or several miles of the time or place.
+I therefore went to the telephone, which is one of my
+favourite toys, and down which I have shouted many valuable,
+but prematurely arrested, monologues upon art and morals.
+I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered that one
+could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days,
+to the advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument,
+in fewer words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram,
+I ordered a taxi-cab to take me to the railway station.
+I have not a word to say in general either against telephones
+or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two of the purest and most
+poetic of the creations of modern scientific civilisation.
+Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down.
+The result of this was that when I arrived at King's Cross my
+only train was gone; there was a Sabbath calm in the station,
+a calm in the eyes of the porters, and in my breast, if calm
+at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my
+breast on first making the discovery; and it was turned
+to blinding horror when I learnt that I could not even send
+a telegram to the organisers of the meeting. To leave
+my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating;
+to leave them without any intimation was simply low.
+I reasoned with the official. I said: "Do you really mean
+to say that if my brother were dying and my mother in this place,
+I could not communicate with her?" He was a man of literal
+and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was dying.
+I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle.
+What would happen if England were invaded, or if I
+alone knew how to turn aside a comet or an earthquake.
+He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible spirit,
+but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element
+of the outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang
+up ungovernable, and I decided that I would not be a cad merely
+because some of my remote ancestors had been Calvinists.
+I would keep my appointment if I lost all my money and all my wits.
+I went out into the quiet London street, where my quiet London
+cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty morning.
+I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the London
+driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire.
+And he did.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful weather, even in
+a motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started,
+but he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate
+sense of adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--
+if we ever did. I was by no means so delicate; I bought
+a varied selection of pork-pies at a little shop that was open
+(why was that shop open?--it is all a mystery), and ate them
+as we went along. The beginning was sombre and irritating.
+I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a baby;
+with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness
+in its squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable
+bustle of democracy; but the poor parts of North London . . . well,
+perhaps I saw them wrongly under that ashen morning and on
+that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke
+the retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring.
+We were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses,
+when the grey showed golden patches and a good light began
+to glitter on everything. The cab went quicker and quicker.
+The open land whirled wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of
+being battled with and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums.
+Rather the feeling increased, because of the great difficulty
+of space and time. The faster went the car, the fiercer and thicker
+I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me.
+The tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows;
+the very trees seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving
+it by a hair's breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw
+a beech-tree by the white road stand up little and defiant.
+It grew bigger and bigger with blinding rapidity. It charged me
+like a tilting knight, seemed to hack at my head, and pass by.
+Sometimes when we went round a curve of road, the effect was yet
+more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill swung round
+to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a blazing fact;
+and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant.
+We do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek
+the nobler sort of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided,
+with evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw
+a veil. When I came back home I was called to the telephone,
+and a meek voice expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab,
+and even said something about any reasonable payment.
+"Whom can I pay for my own superb experience? What is
+the usual charge for seeing the clouds shattered by the sun?
+What is the market price of a tree blue on the sky-line
+and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for
+that windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden.
+Let me pay you for . . ." Here it was, I think, that we
+were cut off.
+
+
+XXVI
+
+The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England
+as Napoleon charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive,
+because away to the last grey line of the sea there was only the look
+of galloping squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose.
+The sea came on like cavalry, and when it touched the shore it
+opened the blazing eyes and deafening tongues of the artillery.
+I saw the worst assault at night on a seaside parade where the sea
+smote on the doors of England with the hammers of earthquake,
+and a white smoke went up into the black heavens. There one
+could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave.
+But the horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness.
+It lifts its load of water laboriously: in that style at once
+slow and slippery in which a Titan might lift a load of rock
+and then let it slip at last to be shattered into shock of dust.
+In front of me that night the waves were not like water:
+they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose first as if it
+did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to attack the stars.
+For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a tower; then it went
+a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that might some day fall.
+When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew up.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across
+the land one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can
+lean up against like a wall. One expected anything to be blown
+out of shape at any instant; the lamp-post to be snapped
+like a green stalk, the tree to be whirled away like a straw.
+I myself should certainly have been blown out of shape if I had
+possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked along the edge
+of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea and could
+not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised
+to find that as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled
+with the ceaseless cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino
+or place of entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing
+against the cosmic uproar. I do not know what band it was.
+Judging from the boisterous British Imperialism of most
+of the airs it played, I should think it was a German band.
+But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came quite
+close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as "Tommy Atkins" and "You Can Depend on Young Australia,"
+and many others of which I do not know the words, but I should
+think they would be "John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,"
+or that fine though unwritten poem, "Wait till the Bull Dog
+gets a bite of you." Now, I for one detest Imperialism,
+but I have a great deal of sympathy with Jingoism.
+And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken
+and innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature
+that it made, if I may so put it, two tunes in my mind.
+It is so obvious and so jolly to be optimistic about England,
+especially when you are an optimist--and an Englishman.
+But through all that glorious brass came the voice
+of the invasion, the undertone of that awful sea.
+I did a foolish thing. As I could not express my meaning
+in an article, I tried to express it in a poem--a bad one.
+You can call it what you like. It might be called "Doubt,"
+or "Brighton." It might be called "The Patriot," or yet
+again "The German Band." I would call it "The Two Voices,"
+but that title has been taken for a grossly inferior poem.
+This is how it began--
+
+ "They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ "(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)"
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there
+is an English country that the Imperialists have never found.
+The British Empire may annex what it likes, it will never annex England.
+It has not even discovered the island, let alone conquered it.
+I took up the two tunes again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ "I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ "(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)"
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England.
+It is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely
+and at random--
+
+ "I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ "(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)"
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute;
+and as for the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+XXVII
+
+Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the keeping
+off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at
+a tree, practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of
+knife-throwing by which men murder each other in Stevenson's romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something
+about their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that
+reminded me, I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy.
+They asked what the knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it,
+what my address was, trade, religion, opinions on the Japanese war,
+name of favourite cat, and so on. They also said I was damaging the tree;
+which was, I am sorry to say, not true, because I could not hit it.
+The peculiar philosophical importance, however, of the incident was this.
+After some half-hour's animated conversation, the exhibition of
+an envelope, an unfinished poem, which was read with great care, and,
+I trust, with some profit, and one or two other subtle detective strokes,
+the elder of the two knights became convinced that I really was what I
+professed to be, that I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS
+(this was the real stroke; they were shaken with a terror common
+to all tyrants), that I lived in a particular place as stated,
+and that I was stopping with particular people in Yorkshire,
+who happened to be wealthy and well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary
+at last that he ended up by representing himself as a reader
+of my work. And when that was said, everything was settled.
+They acquitted me and let me pass.
+
+"But," I said, "what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue
+of that Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like
+knight-errants. You, the higher humanitarians, are not deceived
+by the seeming stillness of the green things, a stillness like
+the stillness of the cataract, a headlong and crashing silence.
+You know that a tree is but a creature tied to the ground by one leg.
+You will not let assassins with their Swedish daggers shed the green
+blood of such a being. But if so, why am I not in custody;
+where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your persons,
+my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have just
+convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank
+of Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether
+I have been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none
+the less damaged even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it
+was wounded by a gentleman connected with the Liberal press.
+Wounds in the bark do not more rapidly close up because they are
+inflicted by people who are stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley.
+That tree, the ruin of its former self, the wreck of what was once
+a giant of the forest, now splintered and laid low by the brute
+superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy, constable, cannot be wiped
+out even by stopping for several months more with some wealthy person.
+It is incredible that you have no legal claim to arrest
+even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?"
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood,
+for the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came.
+It is very possible, of course, that they were fairies.
+In that case the somewhat illogical character of their view
+of crime, law, and personal responsibility would find a bright
+and elfish explanation; perhaps if I had lingered in the glade
+till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny policemen
+dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass.
+But taking the bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen,
+I find myself in a certain difficulty. I was certainly
+accused of something which was either an offence or was not.
+I was let off because I proved I was a guest at a big house.
+The inference seems painfully clear; either it is not
+a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood,
+or else it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man.
+Suppose a very poor person, poorer even than a journalist,
+a navvy or unskilled labourer, tramping in search of work,
+often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps, failing in his rent.
+Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green gaiety
+of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees
+and could give no description of a dwelling-place except
+that he had been fired out of the last. As I walked home
+through a cloudy and purple twilight I wondered how he would
+have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical;
+there is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil
+in the fact that people always brag about their vices; it is when they
+begin to brag about their virtues that they become insufferable.
+But there is this to be said, that illogicality in your constitution
+or your legal methods may become very dangerous if there happens to be
+some great national vice or national temptation which many take advantage
+of the chaos. Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours;
+a temperate man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the
+Chiltern Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally
+to keep down some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is.
+Obviously this kind of illogicality does not matter very much,
+for the simple reason that there is no great temptation to take
+advantage of it. Men retiring from Parliament do not have any
+furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills. But if there were
+a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable politicians taking
+leave of public life would desire to do this (if, for instance,
+there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on saying
+that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day
+and taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality
+would matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence.
+It is only the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry.
+And snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil,
+that it is rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts
+and houses. But it is our great English vice; to be watched
+more fiercely than small-pox. If a man wished to hear the worst
+and wickedest thing in England summed up in casual English words,
+he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald quarrelling.
+He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working man,
+when he wishes to praise any one, calls him "a gentleman."
+It never occurs to him that he might as well call him "a marquis,"
+or "a privy councillor"--that he is simply naming a rank or class,
+not a phrase for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a
+shameful admiration, must, and, I think, does, constantly come
+in and distort and poison our police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest,
+is increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people,
+without this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+XXVIII
+
+The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his
+first feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town
+or village; when he looks again he sees that this comparative
+absence of the picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain,
+precipitous frontage of the houses standing up hard and flat
+out of the street like the cardboard houses in a pantomime--
+a hard angularity allied perhaps to the harshness of French logic.
+When he looks a third time he sees quite simply that it is all because
+the houses have no front gardens. The vague English spirit loves to have
+the entrance to its house softened by bushes and broken by steps.
+It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges half in the house
+and half out of it; a green room in a double sense. The Frenchman
+desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting places, for the
+street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's
+front garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains.
+The street is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street.
+It is his dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his
+British Museum, for the statues and monuments in French streets are not,
+as with us, of the worst, but of the best, art of the country,
+and they are often actually as historical as the Pyramids.
+The street again is the Frenchman's Parliament, for France has
+never taken its Chamber of Deputies so seriously as we take our House
+of Commons, and the quibbles of mere elected nonentities in an official
+room seem feeble to a people whose fathers have heard the voice
+of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open heaven, or Victor Hugo
+shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the second Republic.
+And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in the street
+so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so that
+the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated
+gentleman embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship.
+But in Paris a lamp-post is a tragic thing. For we think
+of tyrants hanged on it, and of an end of the world. There is,
+or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris called LA LANTERNE.
+How funny it would be if there were a Progressive paper in England
+called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the Frenchman is the man
+in the street; that he can dine in the street, and die in the street.
+And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going to bed in the street,
+I shall say that he is still true to the genius of his civilisation.
+All that is good and all that is evil in France is alike connected
+with this open-air element. French democracy and French indecency
+are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a cafe, a public-house is a private house.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through
+the mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort.
+First of all, it lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany,
+and boundaries are the most beautiful things in the world.
+To love anything is to love its boundaries; thus children will always
+play on the edge of anything. They build castles on the edge
+of the sea, and can only be restrained by public proclamation
+and private violence from walking on the edge of the grass.
+For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come
+to the beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very margin
+of Germany, and although there were many German touches in the place--
+German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical barmaids
+dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet the fixed
+French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks of something else.
+All day long and all night long troops of dusty, swarthy, scornful little
+soldiers went plodding through the streets with an air of stubborn
+disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised you, but French
+soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even more than you.
+It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation which has made
+it good at war and science and other things in which what is necessary
+is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the civilians
+alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of head
+which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call
+a bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call
+it a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen
+have been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art
+of the French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of
+the most typical and powerful of the public monuments of France.
+From the cafe table at which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town
+on which hangs the high and flat-faced citadel, pierced with
+many windows, and warmed in the evening light. On the steep
+hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself as large as a hill.
+It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic impression.
+No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common statue;
+no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises,
+shaking the world. The face of the lion has something of the bold
+conventionality of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left
+like a shapeless cloud of tempest, as if it might literally
+be said of him that God had clothed his neck with thunder.
+Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and in some
+sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken
+by the Germans through all the terrible year, but only laid
+down its arms at last at the command of its own Government.
+But the spirit of it has been in this land from the beginning--
+the spirit of something defiant and almost defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern battle
+of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the last
+sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at bay,
+the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+XXIX
+
+Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris
+and its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure;
+but it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of
+roses is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others,
+but quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion,
+they are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality.
+For the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort
+which charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts;
+they are torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life
+with the same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence.
+The enemies of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay
+which does not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which
+the Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself,
+it made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is
+the same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth.
+The new realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain.
+Its indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an
+everlasting revolution. It has none of the things which make good
+Frenchmen love Paris; it has only the things which make unspeakable
+Englishmen love it. It has the part which is cosmopolitan--
+and narrows; not the part which is Parisian--and universal.
+You can find there (as commonly happens in modern centres)
+the worst things of all nations--the DAILY MAIL from England,
+the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of France,
+and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and,
+above all, no French tradition of fighting for an idea.
+Though all the boulevards look like Parisian boulevards,
+though all the shops look like Parisian shops, you cannot look
+at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the full
+distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters
+like Clemenceau and Deroulede.
+
+. . . . .
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I began
+to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again; and I
+had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of the city.
+In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little man with a
+black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy whiskers,
+like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And about the time
+that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic grew thinner,
+and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were saying.
+Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy to follow,
+because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long words
+because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: "It must that we have the Progress."
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying:
+"It must also that we have the Consolidation International."
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened
+with some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it.
+One of the Belgians was a Little Belgian, as we speak
+of a Little Englander. The other was a Belgian Imperialist,
+for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be altogether
+a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire.
+Being a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being
+an empire only means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers
+was the Imperialist, and he was saying: "The science, behold there
+the new guide of humanity."
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: "It does not suffice to
+have progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment
+of the human justice."
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard in
+England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on
+the march. All the world goes to make itself instructed.
+It must that the more instructed enlighten the less instructed.
+Eh, well then, the European must impose upon the savage the science
+and the light. Also (apparently) he must impose himself on
+the savage while he is about it. To-day one travelled quickly.
+The science had changed all. For our fathers, they were
+religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing;
+all the lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves.
+Soon there would not be but the great Empires and confederations,
+guided by the science, always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with
+the sentiment for human justice had "la parole" off him in a flash.
+Without doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments,
+the ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself
+towards Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation,
+what were they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the
+barbarism? The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had
+passed all that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all
+human souls with the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was
+become a spirit; the wings pushed. . . .
+
+. . . . .
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it
+was almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent complete
+alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven knows where.
+I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city.
+On one side of the road was one of those small, thin woods
+which are common in all countries, but of which, by a coincidence,
+the mystical painters of Flanders were very fond. The night was
+closing in with cloudy purple and grey; there was one ribbon of silver,
+the last rag of the sunset. Through the wood went one little path,
+and somehow it suggested that it might lead to some sign of life--
+there was no other sign of life on the horizon. I went along it,
+and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight of all those tiny trees.
+There is something subtle and bewildering about that sort of frail
+and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems like a bodily barrier;
+but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a spiritual barrier.
+It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could not pass a phantom.
+When I had well lost the last gleam of the high road a curious
+and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly felt something
+much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of humanity:
+inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--
+any men; and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe.
+And at last, when I had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw
+a light too near the earth to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door
+of which was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse,
+who seemed to prefer to eat with his head inside the sitting-room.
+I got past him, and found he was being fed by a young man
+who was sitting down and drinking beer inside, and who saluted
+me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange tongue.
+The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I
+traced at length as belonging to about six small children.
+Their father was still working in the fields, but their mother
+rose when I entered. She smiled, but she and all the rest
+spoke some rude language, Flamand, I suppose; so that we
+had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched me beer,
+and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men
+hitting each other with swords, it pleased them very much.
+Then I gave a Belgian penny to each child, for as I said on chance
+in French, "It must be that we have the economic equality."
+But they had never heard of economic equality, while all
+Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality, though it
+is true that they haven't got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying,
+one that Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that
+Humanity was now pushing the wings of the purely intellectual.
+But for me Humanity was hooked on to an accidental picture.
+I thought of a low and lonely house in the flats, behind a veil
+or film of slight trees, a man breaking the ground as men have
+broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse champing
+his food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+XXX
+
+The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that
+in a few hours I should be in England, my eye fell upon one
+of the details of Gothic carving of which Flanders is full.
+I do not know whether the thing is old, though it was certainly
+knocked about and indecipherable, but at least it was certainly
+in the style and tradition of the early Middle Ages.
+It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say
+twisting themselves) to certain primary employments.
+Some seemed to be sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think,
+were reaping; others were energetically pouring something
+into something else. This is entirely characteristic of
+the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth century,
+perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history.
+The great Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes
+doing nothing. Splendid and philosophic as their composure
+is there is always about it something that marks the master
+of many slaves. But if there was one thing the early
+mediaevals liked it was representing people doing something--
+hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes,
+or making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. "Quicquid agunt
+homines, votum, timor, ira voluptas." (I quote from memory.)
+The Middle Ages is full of that spirit in all its monuments and
+manuscripts. Chaucer retains it in his jolly insistence on
+everybody's type of trade and toil. It was the earliest and
+youngest resurrection of Europe, the time when social order was
+strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive; the time when
+religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been exasperated.
+For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic carving is
+different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often reining
+their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever
+at that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving
+seems actually a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone.
+Sometimes one cannot help feeling that the groups actually
+move and mix, and the whole front of a great cathedral has
+the hum of a huge hive.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity
+of which I could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads
+had very curious heads, and it seemed to me that they had their
+mouths open. Whether or no this really meant anything or was
+an accident of nascent art I do not know; but in the course
+of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that singing was
+connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes.
+I was still thinking about this small problem when I walked
+along the pier at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering
+a measured shout as they laboured, and I remembered that sailors
+still sing in chorus while they work, and even sing different
+songs according to what part of their work they are doing.
+And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was over, the sight
+of men working in the English fields reminded me again that there
+are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural routines.
+And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be
+quite unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry.
+How did people come to chant rude poems while pulling certain
+ropes or gathering certain fruit, and why did nobody do
+anything of the kind while producing any of the modern things?
+Why is a modern newspaper never printed by people singing in chorus?
+Why do shopmen seldom, if ever, sing?
+
+. . . . .
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all
+the separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there
+not songs for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank?
+As the train from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens,
+I tried to write a few songs suitable for commercial gentlemen.
+Thus, the work of bank clerks when casting up columns might begin
+with a thundering chorus in praise of Simple Addition.
+
+"Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er.
+Hear the Stars of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.'
+Though the creeds and realms are reeling, though the sophists roar,
+Though we weep and pawn our watches, Two and Two are Four."
+
+"There's a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager's
+a crank and the Secretary drank,
+ and the Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+Stand close: there is a run On the Bank. Of our ship, our royal one,
+let the ringing legend run,
+ that she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank."
+
+. . . . .
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine
+who actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions
+in rhyme to him for use among his colleagues. But he was not
+very hopeful about the matter. It was not (he assured me)
+that he underrated the verses, or in any sense lamented their
+lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an indefinable
+something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks.
+And I think he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious.
+I may observe here that I think there must be some mistake in
+the calculations of the Socialists. They put down all our distress,
+not to a moral tone, but to the chaos of private enterprise.
+Now, banks are private; but post-offices are Socialistic:
+therefore I naturally expected that the post-office would fall into
+the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of my surprise when the
+lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing) dismissed the
+idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done. She
+seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the
+verses themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse
+of the Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+"O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+"Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully
+certain it seemed that the most important and typical modern
+things could not be done with a chorus. One could not,
+for instance, be a great financier and sing; because the
+essence of being a great financier is that you keep quiet.
+You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being
+a public man is that you do nearly everything in private.
+Nobody would imagine a chorus of money-lenders. Every one
+knows the story of the solicitors' corps of volunteers who,
+when the Colonel on the battlefield cried "Charge!" all said
+simultaneously, "Six-and-eightpence." Men can sing while
+charging in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at
+the end of my reflections I had really got no further than
+the sub-conscious feeling of my friend the bank-clerk--that
+there is something spiritually suffocating about our life;
+not about our laws merely, but about our life. Bank-clerks
+are without songs, not because they are poor, but because
+they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards
+I passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which
+was shaken with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own
+tongue. THEY were singing anyhow; and I had for an instant
+a fancy I had often had before: that with us the super-human
+is the only place where you can find the human. Human nature
+is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+XXXI
+
+The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday,
+a friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded
+with half-packed luggage.
+
+"You seem to be off on your travels," he said. "Where are you going?"
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, "To Battersea."
+
+"The wit of your remark," he said, "wholly escapes me."
+
+"I am going to Battersea," I repeated, "to Battersea via Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea."
+
+"I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you," said my friend,
+with an air of intellectual comparison, "that this is Battersea?"
+
+"It is quite unnecessary," I said, "and it is spiritually untrue.
+I cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or
+any England. I cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair:
+because a cloud of sleep and custom has come across my eyes.
+The only way to get back to them is to go somewhere else; and that
+is the real object of travel and the real pleasure of holidays.
+Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see France? Do you suppose
+that I go to Germany in order to see Germany? I shall enjoy them both;
+but it is not them that I am seeking. I am seeking Battersea.
+The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land;
+it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land.
+Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and heavy,
+and that if you utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your head.
+I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical.
+It is not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go
+to England is to go away from it."
+
+But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back
+to England, I was startled to find that I had told the exact truth.
+England did break on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old.
+To land at Dover is the right way to approach England (most things
+that are hackneyed are right), for then you see first the full,
+soft gardens of Kent, which are, perhaps, an exaggeration,
+but still a typical exaggeration, of the rich rusticity of England.
+As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with whom I had fallen
+into conversation felt the same freshness, though for another cause.
+She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm
+in that simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans,
+who are the most idealistic people in the whole world.
+Their only danger is that the idealist can easily become the idolator.
+And the American has become so idealistic that he even idealises money.
+But (to quote a very able writer of American short stories)
+that is another story.
+
+"I have never been in England before," said the American lady,
+"yet it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it
+for a long time."
+
+"So you have," I said; "you have been away for three hundred years."
+
+"What a lot of ivy you have," she said. "It covers the churches
+and it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it
+grow like that."
+
+"I am interested to hear it," I replied, "for I am making a little
+list of all the things that are really better in England.
+Even a month on the Continent, combined with intelligence,
+will teach you that there are many things that are better abroad.
+All the things that the DAILY MAIL calls English are better abroad.
+But there are things entirely English and entirely good.
+Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front gardens,
+and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom cabs,
+and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman
+or a German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a
+light bursts upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of
+Mrs. Gallup and the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the
+matter of a capital letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept
+everything; bacon did write Shakespeare."
+
+"I cannot look at anything but the ivy," she said,
+"it looks so comfortable."
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many
+weeks an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour
+in which he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved
+because it represented something in the nature of permanent public
+opinion of England, above the ebb and flow of the parties.
+Now Mr. Balfour is a perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his
+own point of view, thinks long and seriously about the public needs,
+and he is, moreover, a man of entirely exceptionable intellectual power.
+But alas, in spite of all this, when I had read that speech I
+thought with a heavy heart that there was one more thing that I had
+to add to the list of the specially English things, such as kippers
+and cricket; I had to add the specially English kind of humbug.
+In France things are attacked and defended for what they are.
+The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended
+because it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican.
+But here is the ablest of English politicians consoling everybody
+by telling them that the House of Lords is not really the House
+of Lords, but something quite different, that the foolish accidental
+peers whom he meets every night are in some mysterious way experts
+upon the psychology of the democracy; that if you want to know
+what the very poor want you must ask the very rich, and that if you
+want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it at Hatfield.
+If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were a logical
+French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an English
+politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing that
+all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the strong
+English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts.
+In a cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly
+all the Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery.
+He knows, and (as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament
+knows the very names of the peers who have purchased their peerages.
+But the glamour of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself
+and reassuring others, is too strong for this original knowledge;
+at last it fades from him, and he sincerely and earnestly
+calls on Englishmen to join with him in admiring an august and
+public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten that the Senate
+really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+"Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick," said the American lady,
+"it seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical
+thing in England."
+
+"It is very beautiful," I said, "and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England,
+wrote one of his rare poems about the beauty of ivy.
+Yes, by all means let us admire the ivy, so deep, so warm,
+so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque tenderness.
+Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree."
+
+
+XXXII
+
+The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was
+a train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it.
+And while I was running along the train (amid general admiration)
+I noticed that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of
+carriages marked "Engaged." On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages
+was pasted the little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows
+were big bland men staring out in the conscious pride of possession.
+Their bodies seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more
+than usual placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor
+reasons that it was the opposite direction and the wrong day.
+It could hardly be the King. It could hardly be the French President.
+For, though these distinguished persons naturally like to be private
+for three hours, they are at least public for three minutes.
+A crowd can gather to see them step into the train; and there was no
+crowd here, or any police ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train
+than a bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious
+and delicate than the King's own suite? Who were these that
+were larger than a mob, yet more mysterious than a monarch?
+Was it possible that instead of our Royal House visiting the Tsar,
+he was really visiting us? Or does the House of Lords
+have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge.
+Then the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them
+got out the distinguished holders of the engaged seats.
+They were all dressed decorously in one colour; they had neatly
+cropped hair; and they were chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our
+eyes met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt,
+a native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going.
+His mouth twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said:
+"I don't s'pose they're goin' on an 'oliday at the seaside with little
+spades and pails." I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein
+of literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down
+to Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge,
+and had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when
+we had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea.
+I knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: "Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it."
+And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of
+the English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense
+of pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out.
+For every practical purpose of a political state, for every practical
+purpose of a tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted.
+At a tea-party it is equally obvious that he that exalteth
+himself must be abased, if possible without bodily violence.
+Now people talk of democracy as being coarse and turbulent:
+it is a self-evident error in mere history. Aristocracy is the thing
+that is always coarse and turbulent: for it means appealing to the
+self-confident people. Democracy means appealing to the different
+people. Democracy means getting those people to vote who would never
+have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian ethics) the
+precise people who ought to govern are the people who have not the
+cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my friend
+in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument about crime
+and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything:
+as if one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible.
+This mere belief in bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental;
+it is simply snobbish. For if comfort gives men virtue,
+the comfortable classes ought to be virtuous--which is absurd.
+Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and more watery
+type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who says,
+with a sort of splutter, "Flog the brutes!" or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity "what he would do" with a certain man--
+always supposing the man's hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak
+and unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental
+humanitarian and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears
+in the modern babel. Yet you very rarely meet either of them
+in a train. You never meet anyone else in a controversy.
+The man you meet in a train is like this man that I met:
+he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually doubtful.
+So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could
+be "done" to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it
+would be if nothing need be done. But something must be done.
+"I s'pose we 'ave to do it." In short, he is simply a sane man,
+and of a sane man there is only one safe definition. He is a man
+who can have tragedy in his heart and comedy in his head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem
+of the proper treatment of criminals is that both parties
+discuss the matter without any direct human feeling.
+The denouncers of wrong are as cold as the organisers of wrong.
+Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging
+arranged in our modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its
+scientific paraphernalia, the photographing, the medical attendance,
+prove that it goes to the last foul limit of the boot and rack.
+The cat is simply the rack without any of its intellectual reasons.
+Holding this view strongly, I open the ordinary humanitarian books or
+papers and I find a phrase like this, "The lash is a relic of barbarism."
+So is the plough. So is the fishing net. So is the horn or
+the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an inexpressibly feeble
+phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of barbarism!
+It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow,
+and we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion.
+There is nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism.
+Man is a relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is simply
+a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called a relic
+of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate when
+everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was detailed
+exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous sixteenth
+century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years before the
+Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this day. This is,
+first and last, the frightful thing we must remember. In so far as we
+grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense whatever) naturally
+moving away from torture. We may be moving towards torture. We must know
+what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous secret cruelty which
+has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields.
+They have taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they
+have done with them.
+
+
+XXXIII
+
+The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not
+think so; he did not think so because he himself was even more
+modern than the railway station. He did not think so because
+he was himself feverish, irritable, and snorting like an engine.
+He could not value the ancient silence of the railway station.
+
+"In a railway station," he said, "you are in a hurry,
+and therefore, miserable"; but you need not be either unless
+you are as modern as Ruskin. The true philosopher does not
+think of coming just in time for his train except as a bet
+or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be
+late for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway
+station much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral.
+It has many of the characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building;
+it has vast arches, void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all,
+it has recurrence or ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration
+of water and fire the two prime elements of all human ceremonial.
+Lastly, a station resembles the old religions rather than the new
+religions in this point, that people go there. In connection
+with this it should also be remembered that all popular places,
+all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain the best
+routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or machines
+used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people.
+Ruskin could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the
+Underground Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations.
+The great palaces of pleasure which the rich build in London all have
+brazen and vulgar names. Their names are either snobbish, like the
+Hotel Cecil, or (worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole.
+But when I go in a third-class carriage from the nearest circle station
+to Battersea to the nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names
+of the stations are one long litany of solemn and saintly memories.
+Leaving Victoria I come to a park belonging especially to St. James
+the Apostle; thence I go to Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes
+to the awful Abbey; Charing Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom;
+the next station is called a Temple; and Blackfriars remembers
+the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million
+feet of the crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear
+down old things by sheer walking. But the educated kick them
+down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty
+railway station, where I have no business of any kind.
+I have extracted a vast number of chocolates from automatic machines;
+I have obtained cigarettes, toffee, scent, and other things
+that I dislike by the same machinery; I have weighed myself,
+with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential
+antiquity and permanence, is still in possession of my mind.
+I wander up to the bookstall, and my faith survives even
+the wild spectacle of modern literature and journalism.
+Even in the crudest and most clamorous aspects of the newspaper
+world I still prefer the popular to the proud and fastidious.
+If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and taking
+in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL.
+Even mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so
+irritating as mere meanness preached in a big and solemn way.
+People buy the DAILY MAIL, but they do not believe in it.
+They do believe in the TIMES, and (apparently) they do not buy it.
+But the more the output of paper upon the modern world is
+actually studied, the more it will be found to be in all its
+essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur
+and historic allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library.
+The novelty is all superficial; the tradition is all interior
+and profound. The DAILY MAIL has new editions, but never a new idea.
+Everything in a newspaper that is not the old human love
+of altar or fatherland is the old human love of gossip.
+Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church
+struck by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem
+to realise that this old barbaric history is the same as new
+democratic journalism. It is not that the savage chronicle has
+disappeared. It is merely that the savage chronicle now appears
+every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me.
+On the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, "Get On
+or Get Out." The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden
+revolt and reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty;
+it reminded me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly
+idiotic thing, a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing
+anybody in anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful
+person in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being
+the most successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men.
+When I saw those words the silence and sanctity of the railway station
+were for the moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate
+something anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate,
+means the most disgusting individualism of this individualistic world.
+In the fury of my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book,
+thereby ensuring that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it
+prepared to find some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be
+an exception to the general silence and sanctity of the railway station.
+I was prepared to find something in the book that was as infamous
+as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding
+to the furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover.
+After reading it carefully I could not discover whether
+I was really to get on or to get out; but I had a vague
+feeling that I should prefer to get out. A considerable part
+of the book, particularly towards the end, was concerned
+with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not
+discover in any way how the details of his life given here were
+supposed to help a person aiming at success. One anecdote described
+how Napoleon always wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose
+the moral is: always wipe your pen on your knee-breeches, and you
+will win the battle of Wagram. Another story told that he let loose
+a gazelle among the ladies of his Court. Clearly the brutal practical
+inference is--loose a gazelle among the ladies of your acquaintance,
+and you will be Emperor of the French. Get on with a gazelle or get
+out. The book entirely reconciled me to the soft twilight of the
+station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a symbolic division
+which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are vertebrates;
+they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans;
+their hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside.
+But the softness is there; everything in this twilight
+temple is soft.
+
+
+XXXIV
+
+The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element
+of truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned,
+such as meeting President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab.
+What I have now to relate really happened; yet there was no
+element in it of practical politics or of personal danger.
+It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with another man.
+But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible thing
+that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long
+ago that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue,
+only of its main questions and answers; but there is one sentence
+in it for which I can answer absolutely and word for word.
+It was a sentence so awful that I could not forget it if I would.
+It was the last sentence spoken; and it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school.
+An art school is different from almost all other schools or
+colleges in this respect: that, being of new and crude creation
+and of lax discipline, it presents a specially strong contrast
+between the industrious and the idle. People at an art school
+either do an atrocious amount of work or do no work at all.
+I belonged, along with other charming people, to the latter class;
+and this threw me often into the society of men who were very
+different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied;
+I was engaged about that time in discovering, to my own
+extreme and lasting astonishment, that I was not an atheist.
+But there were others also at loose ends who were engaged in
+discovering what Carlyle called (I think with needless delicacy)
+the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are
+two very curious things which the critic of human life may observe.
+The first is the fact that there is one real difference between men
+and women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk
+in threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do)
+three young cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk
+together every day you generally find that one of the three cads and
+idiots is (for some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot.
+In these small groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is
+almost always one man who seems to have condescended to his company;
+one man who, while he can talk a foul triviality with his fellows,
+can also talk politics with a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he
+would talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours
+of the night he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even
+in speculation. He was a man with a long, ironical face, and close
+and red hair; he was by class a gentleman, and could walk like one,
+but preferred, for some reason, to walk like a groom carrying two
+pails. He looked like a sort of Super-jockey; as if some archangel
+had gone on the Turf. And I shall never forget the half-hour in
+which he and I argued about real things for the first and the last
+time.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school
+was a part ran a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think,
+than those that lead up to St. Paul's Cathedral. On a black
+wintry evening he and I were wandering on these cold heights,
+which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the stars.
+The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning
+and blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning
+something in the grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went
+whirling past us like a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark.
+Above us also it was gloom; but if one stared long enough
+at that upper darkness, one saw vertical stripes of grey
+in the black and then became conscious of the colossal facade
+of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said
+it, I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it
+I knew it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and
+full that I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+"I am becoming orthodox," I said, "because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than a
+crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches
+piracy disinterestedly and without an adequate salary.
+A Free Lover is worse than a profligate. For a profligate is
+serious and reckless even in his shortest love; while a Free Lover
+is cautious and irresponsible even in his longest devotion.
+I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous."
+
+"You mean dangerous to morality," he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. "I expect you are right. But why do you care about morality?"
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had
+a trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light
+of the bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights.
+His long chin and high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath;
+so that he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit.
+I had an unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness;
+and even as I paused a burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+"Aren't those sparks splendid?" I said.
+
+"Yes," he replied.
+
+"That is all that I ask you to admit," said I. "Give me
+those few red specks and I will deduce Christian morality.
+Once I thought like you, that one's pleasure in a flying
+spark was a thing that could come and go with that spark.
+Once I thought that the delight was as free as the fire.
+Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space.
+But now I know that the red star is only on the apex
+of an invisible pyramid of virtues. That red fire is only
+the flower on a stalk of living habits, which you cannot see.
+Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you' for a bun
+are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you
+were humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now
+enjoy any fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them
+being red because you were told about the blood of the martyrs;
+you only like them being bright because brightness is a glory.
+That flame flowered out of virtues, and it will fade with virtues.
+Seduce a woman, and that spark will be less bright.
+Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be really bad,
+and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper."
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both.
+He only said, "But shall I not find in evil a life of its own?
+Granted that for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out:
+will not the expanding pleasure of ruin . . ."
+
+"Do you see that fire ?" I asked. "If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are."
+
+"Perhaps," he said, in his tired, fair way. "Only what you call
+evil I call good."
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted
+the steps swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find
+my hat in the low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his
+voice again, but the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled:
+then I heard the voice of one of the vilest of his associates saying,
+"Nobody can possibly know." And then I heard those two or three
+words which I remember in every syllable and cannot forget.
+I heard the Diabolist say, "I tell you I have done everything else.
+If I do that I shan't know the difference between right and wrong."
+I rushed out without daring to pause; and as I passed the fire I
+did not know whether it was hell or the furious love of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think,
+that he committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure,
+not with tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went;
+but I have never known, or even dared to think, what was that place
+at which he stopped and refrained.
+
+
+XXXV
+
+A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is
+really quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven
+or Fairyland or whatever I called it, was immediately behind my
+own back, and that this was why I could never manage to see it,
+however often I twisted and turned to take it by surprise.
+I had a notion of a man perpetually spinning round on one foot
+like a teetotum in the effort to find that world behind his back
+which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is why the world
+goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look over
+its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it,
+yet without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive
+of that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is
+in some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned.
+Always the Kingdom of Heaven is "At Hand"; and Looking-glass Land is
+only through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished
+if the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in
+which all the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I
+turned one corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp;
+I should not be surprised if I turned a third corner and found
+myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day
+at something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street
+and found myself in England.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation.
+In the darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there
+is one thing that should always be remembered about the very
+nature of our country. It may be shortly stated by saying that
+England is not such a fool as it looks. The types of England,
+the externals of England, always misrepresent the country.
+England is an oligarchical country, and it prefers that its
+oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners.
+Our countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher
+places of the national life. It may be a strange sight to see
+the blind leading the blind; but England provides a stranger.
+England shows us the blind leading the people who can see.
+And this again is an under-statement of the case. For the English
+political aristocrats not only speak worse than many other people;
+they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance of statesmen is
+like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected thing.
+If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you will
+be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things.
+It makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently
+intimate with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life
+in Parliament to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself;
+he votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one.
+A man ought to vote with the whole of himself as he worships
+or gets married. A man ought to vote with his head and heart,
+his soul and stomach, his eye for faces and his ear for music;
+also (when sufficiently provoked) with his hands and feet.
+If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of it
+should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs,
+they should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross.
+But as it is, the difficulty with English democracy at all
+elections is that it is something less than itself. The question
+is not so much whether only a minority of the electorate votes.
+The point is that only a minority of the voter votes.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak
+I found this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle
+class which I had imagined had almost vanished from the world.
+It seemed to me that all the main representatives of the middle
+class had gone off in one direction or in the other; they had either
+set out in pursuit of the Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit
+of the Simple Life. I cannot say which I dislike more myself;
+the people in question are welcome to have either of them, or, as is
+more likely, to have both, in hideous alternations of disease and cure.
+But all the prominent men who plainly represent the middle class have
+adopted either the single eye-glass of Mr Chamberlain or the single
+eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads.
+It was serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it
+committed the solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that
+this old earnest political England had practically disappeared.
+And as I say, I took one turn out of Fleet Street and I found
+a room full of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The club
+was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne'er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all
+the hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth
+century. The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet
+there was not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I
+often have in listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion.
+The Toryism of this club was like the Toryism of Johnson,
+a Toryism that could use humour and appealed to humanity.
+The democracy of this club was like the democracy of Wilkes,
+a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight duels;
+a democracy that can face things out and endure slander;
+the democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers.
+Each man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as
+well as he could from sheer fury against the other man.
+This is the greatest of our modern descents, that nowadays a man
+does not become more rhetorical as he becomes more sincere.
+An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got really and honestly furious,
+looked for big words with which to crush his adversary.
+The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech
+the rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening
+to which nobody listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate,
+or one of the harder kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere,
+he becomes Cockney. "The destiny of the Empire," or "The destiny
+of humanity," do well enough for mere ornamental preliminaries,
+but when the man becomes angry and honest, then it is a snarl,
+"Where do we come in?" or "It's your money they want."
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different;
+they were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet
+quivering with passion, and tried to destroy his opponent,
+not with sniggering, but actually with eloquence. I was arguing
+with them about Home Rule; at the end I told them why the English
+aristocracy really disliked an Irish Parliament; because it would
+be like their club.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I
+saw pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London
+was rising against something that London had hardly heard of.
+Then I suddenly saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world
+is an immense and tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things.
+And I saw that across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin,
+sheet of ice, of wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I
+heard it crack.
+
+
+XXXVI
+
+A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read
+it through very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come
+to the conclusion that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read
+it through very carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet.
+The image and the idea of it clung to me through a great part
+of my boyhood; I may have dreamt it before I could talk; or told it
+to myself before I could read; or read it before I could remember.
+On the whole, however, I am certain that I did not read it,
+for children have very clear memories about things like that;
+and of the books which I was really fond I can still remember,
+not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline
+to the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages
+of the atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me,
+for the sake of argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch
+restaurants in the City where men take their food so fast that it
+has none of the quality of food, and take their half-hour's
+vacation so fast that it has none of the qualities of leisure;
+to hurry through one's leisure is the most unbusiness-like of actions.
+They all wore tall shiny hats as if they could not lose an instant
+even to hang them on a peg, and they all had one eye a little off,
+hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In short, they were the slaves
+of the modern bondage, you could hear their fetters clanking.
+Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest chain ever tied
+to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man
+who almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue.
+He was like all the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly
+opposite to them in all manner. He wore a high shiny hat
+and a long frock coat, but he wore them as such solemn things
+were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if it were a mitre,
+and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high priest.
+He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed
+(such was his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat
+for doing so, and to apologise to the peg for making use of it.
+When he had sat down on a wooden chair with the air of one
+considering its feelings and given a sort of slight stoop
+or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an altar,
+I could not help some comment springing to my lips.
+For the man was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man,
+and yet he treated everything with a care that almost
+amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said,
+"This furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat
+it much too carelessly."
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed
+as his was fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him
+ordinary as he entered, save for his strange, cautious manner;
+but if the other people had seen him then they would have screamed
+and emptied the room. They did not see him, and they went on making
+a clatter with their forks, and a murmur with their conversation.
+But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+
+"Did you mean anything particular by that remark?" he asked at last,
+and the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+"Nothing whatever," I answered. "One does not mean anything here;
+it spoils people's digestions."
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief;
+and yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+"I thought perhaps," he said in a low voice, "that another of them
+had gone wrong."
+
+"If you mean another digestion gone wrong," I said, "I never heard
+of one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire,
+and the other organs are in an equally bad way."
+
+"No, I mean another street gone wrong," and he said heavily
+and quietly, "but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you,
+I think I shall have to tell you the story. I do so with all
+the less responsibility, because I know you won't believe it.
+For forty years of my life I invariably left my office, which is
+in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the afternoon, taking with
+me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the left hand.
+For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the side
+office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side,
+took the first turning to the left and the third to the right,
+from where I bought an evening paper, followed the road on
+the right-hand side round two obtuse angles, and came out just
+outside a Metropolitan station, where I took a train home.
+For forty years two months and four days I fulfilled this course
+by accumulated habit: it was not a long street that I traversed,
+and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I
+went out in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand
+and my bag in the left, and I began to notice that walking along
+the familiar street tired me somewhat more than usual; and when I
+turned it I was convinced that I had turned down the wrong one.
+For now the street shot up quite a steep slant, such as one
+only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this part
+there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street;
+the name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were
+the same; the lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective
+was the same; only it was tilted upwards like a lid.
+Forgetting any trouble about breathlessness or fatigue I ran
+furiously forward, and reached the second of my accustomed turnings,
+which ought to bring me almost within sight of the station.
+And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the pavement.
+For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a steep
+staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles
+round that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill.
+And this was a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole
+street had lifted itself like a single wave, and yet every speck
+and detail of it was the same, and I saw in the high distance,
+as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked out in pink letters
+the name over my paper shop.
+
+"I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a
+part of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses.
+I had, I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long
+iron bridge in empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up
+the iron trap of a coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty
+space and the stairs.
+
+"When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was
+in shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing
+so perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world.
+And the stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought
+to be endured by the eyes of men.
+
+"'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of devils.'
+
+"After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+
+"'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+Station.'
+
+"'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now, however,
+it is going to heaven.'
+
+"'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+
+"'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody does.
+But you can't neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time,
+you can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the
+State so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no
+horse, no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and
+yet have less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have
+worked this street to death, and yet you have never remembered its
+existence. If you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would
+have hung this street with garlands and given it the name of a god.
+Then it would have gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired
+of your tireless insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to
+heaven. Have you never sat on a bucking horse?'
+
+"I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me
+to be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven.
+But in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this
+is all nonsense. Streets go to the place they have to go.
+A street must always go to its end.'
+
+"'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+
+"'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied,
+in reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always
+gone to Oldgate Station; day after . . .'
+
+"I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury
+of the road in revolt.
+
+"'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks
+of you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive?
+Day after day, year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station. . . .'
+Since then I have respected the things called inanimate."
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in
+the restaurant withdrew.
+
+
+XXXVII
+
+The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can
+get for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun,
+the moon, the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles.
+You can get them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing,
+which I am not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which
+the lowest price is a penny halfpenny. But the general principle
+will be at once apparent. In the street behind me, for instance,
+you can now get a ride on an electric tram for a halfpenny.
+To be on an electric tram is to be on a flying castle in a fairy tale.
+You can get quite a large number of brightly coloured sweets for
+a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of reading this article
+for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array
+of valuable things you can get at a halfpenny each you
+should do as I was doing last night. I was gluing my nose
+against the glass of a very small and dimly lit toy shop
+in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets of Battersea.
+But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made.
+Those toys of the poor were like the children who buy them;
+they were all dirty; but they were all bright. For my part,
+I think brightness more important than cleanliness; since
+the first is of the soul, and the second of the body. You
+must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion
+in the modern world.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red
+Noah's arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance.
+That lit shop-window became like the brilliantly lit
+stage when one is watching some highly coloured comedy.
+I forgot the grey houses and the grimy people behind me as one
+forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds at a theatre.
+It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were small,
+not because they were toys, but because they were objects far away.
+The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater omnibus,
+passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to Bayswater.
+The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was blue
+with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming
+and only man is black. The red Noah's ark was really the enormous
+ship of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea,
+red in the first morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction,
+such brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the
+face of one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles
+or moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the
+slowness of their growth and the suddenness of their termination.
+The return to real thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man.
+Very often indeed (in my case) it is bumping into a man.
+But in any case the awakening is always emphatic and,
+generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in this case,
+I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop;
+but in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final.
+There was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told
+me that I had strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I
+had already done some odd thing. I felt as if I had worked
+a miracle or committed a sin. It was as if I had at any rate,
+stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop
+and tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old
+and broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half
+his face, hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial.
+Yet though he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering
+in his eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling
+asleep in a not unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers,
+but when I put down the money he did not at first seem to see it;
+then he blinked at it feebly, and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+"No, no," he said vaguely. "I never have. I never have.
+We are rather old-fashioned here."
+
+"Not taking money," I replied, "seems to me more like an uncommonly
+new fashion than an old one."
+
+"I never have," said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose;
+"I've always given presents. I'm too old to stop."
+
+"Good heavens!" I said. "What can you mean? Why, you might
+be Father Christmas."
+
+"I am Father Christmas," he said apologetically, and blew
+his nose again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside.
+At any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street;
+I might have strayed into some new and sunless world.
+But something had cut the chords of common sense, and I could
+not feel even surprise except sleepily. Something made me say,
+"You look ill, Father Christmas."
+
+"I am dying," he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+"All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it.
+They seem to object to me on such curious and inconsistent
+sort of grounds, these scientific men, and these innovators.
+They say that I give people superstitions and make them too visionary;
+they say I give people sausages and make them too coarse.
+They say my heavenly parts are too heavenly; they say my earthly
+parts are too earthly; I don't know what they want, I'm sure.
+How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly things
+too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly?
+I don't understand. But I understand one thing well enough.
+These modern people are living and I am dead."
+
+"You may be dead," I replied. "You ought to know.
+But as for what they are doing, do not call it living."
+
+. . . . .
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected
+to be unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few
+seconds when, in the utter stillness, I distinctly heard
+a very rapid step coming nearer and nearer along the street.
+The next moment a figure flung itself into the shop and stood
+framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted back
+as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat.
+He had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor;
+he had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the
+shop and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and
+uttered the exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+"Good lord!" he cried out; "it can't be you! It isn't you!
+I came to ask where your grave was."
+
+"I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens," said the old gentleman, with a
+feeble smile; "but I'm dying," he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+"But, dash it all, you were dying in my time," said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; "and you don't look a day older."
+
+"I've felt like this for a long time," said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door
+into the darkness.
+
+"Dick," he roared at the top of his voice; "he's still alive."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne.
+He carried his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face
+had even a look of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted
+by his eyes, which were literally as humble as a dog's. His sword
+made a great clatter, as if the shop were too small for it.
+
+"Indeed," said Sir Richard Steele, "'tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley
+and his Christmas Day."
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker.
+It seemed to be filled with newcomers.
+
+"It hath ever been understood," said a burly man, who carried
+his head humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think
+he was Ben Jonson--"It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo,
+under our King James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty
+customs were fallen sick, and like to pass from the world.
+This grey beard most surely was no lustier when I knew him than now."
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood,
+say in some mixed Norman French, "But I saw the man dying."
+
+"I have felt like this a long time," said Father Christmas,
+in his feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+"Since when?" he asked. "Since you were born?"
+
+"Yes," said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair.
+"I have been always dying."
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling
+a mob to rise.
+
+"I understand it now," he cried, "you will never die."
+
+
+XXXVIII
+
+The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed
+affection for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there
+was so restful that we almost felt it as a home, and hardly
+strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees
+growing in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines
+of the Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent,
+in the poem, heard the bell which told them they were not too late.
+But we took as much pleasure in the people, in the little boys
+with open, flat Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks,
+making them look like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim,
+oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and mouths
+at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late
+mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his
+little tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke
+in one corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it.
+We got into the little train, which was meant really to take
+the peasants and their vegetables to and fro from their fields
+beyond the town, and the official came round to give us tickets.
+We asked him what place we should get to if we paid fivepence.
+The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us (with a
+lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism)
+where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only
+question was whether we could get there for fivepence.
+At last, after a great deal of international misunderstanding
+(for he spoke French in the Flemish and we in the English manner),
+he told us that fivepence would take us to a place which I
+have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded
+like the word "Waterloo" pronounced by an intoxicated patriot;
+I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking
+from boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field
+of Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was
+in quite a different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads,
+with one cottage at the corner, a perspective of tall trees like
+Hobbema's "Avenue," and beyond only the infinite flat chess-board
+of the little fields. It was the scene of peace and prosperity;
+but I must confess that my friend's first action was to ask
+the man when there would be another train back to Mechlin.
+The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one hour.
+We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and,
+finding the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief.
+The officer on this train could speak nothing but Flemish,
+but he understood the name Mechlin, and indicated that when we came
+to Mechlin Station he would put us down, which, after the right
+interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling.
+And if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you,
+why should it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails?
+But on this soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line
+of the Netherlands or the fact that we were returning home without
+any adventure, I really did think things a trifle dreary.
+As soon as we could creep under the shelter of a street
+we turned into a little cafe, kept by one woman. She was incredibly
+old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee and what
+was called "cognac fine." "Cognac fine" were the only two French
+words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At least,
+the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I,
+got up and went out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we
+could at once stroll back to our hotel by the station.
+I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless mood, and listening
+to the unremitting rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured
+and frantic.
+
+"Get up!" he cried, waving his hands wildly. "Get up! We're in the
+wrong town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles,
+twenty miles off--God knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp."
+
+"What!" I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+"Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face
+for an instant behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I
+was feeling depressed because we were in the right town.
+But if we are in the wrong town--why, we have our adventure after all!
+If we are in the wrong town, we are in the right place."
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat
+more grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre,
+which seemed to consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks,
+who sold lemonade.
+
+"This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!" I cried
+enthusiastically. "We must do something, something sacramental
+and commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be
+a bore to build a temple. Let us write a poem."
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope
+and one of those pencils that turn bright violet in water.
+There was plenty of water about, and the violet ran down
+the paper, symbolising the rich purple of that romantic hour.
+I began, choosing the form of an old French ballade;
+it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ "Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ "Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----"
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it
+expressed a more wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean.
+But he only turned up his coat collar, and I felt that for him
+the muse had folded her wings. I rewrote--
+
+ "Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre."
+
+"The next line," I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+"The next line," he said somewhat harshly, "will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we
+have to change twice. I dare say I should think this jolly
+romantic but for the weather. Adventure is the champagne
+of life, but I prefer my champagne and my adventures dry.
+Here is the station."
+
+. . . . .
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred
+cloud of rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky,
+that even made one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said
+to my friend in a low voice--"I have found out everything.
+We have come to the wrong star."
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: "That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world.
+When I thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it
+was wrong, I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness,
+tires us because it tells us we fit into this world. The true
+happiness is that we don't fit. We come from somewhere else.
+We have lost our way."
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had impressed
+or only fatigued him I could not tell. "This," I added, "is suggested
+in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ "'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'"
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple
+we heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with "No bally
+HORS D'OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once."
+
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+XXXIX
+
+The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants
+which happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909.
+And since I tend, like all who are growing old, to re-enter
+the remote past as a paradise or playground, I disinter a memory
+which may serve to stand among those memories of small but strange
+incidents with which I have sometimes filled this column.
+The thing has really some of the dark qualities of a detective-story;
+though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could hardly unravel
+it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the actors,
+doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth century,
+and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that Dr. Johnson
+was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over gravy,
+snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt.
+I had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions
+as I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been.
+I requested that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I
+might touch all of them but one, and then go back and touch that.
+Failing this, I felt that the least they could do was to have
+twenty-five cups of tea stationed at regular intervals along
+the course, each held by a Mrs. Thrale in full costume.
+My best constructive suggestion was the most harshly rejected of all.
+In front of me in the procession walked the great Bishop Berkeley,
+the man who turned the tables on the early materialists by maintaining
+that matter itself possibly does not exist. Dr. Johnson,
+you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as Berkeley's,
+and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, "I refute him so!"
+Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars,
+but behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot.
+But I must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities;
+we old men grow too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my
+assumed character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place
+at night in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date),
+that the garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms,
+and especially with early Celtic saints smoking pipes,
+and with elegant Renaissance gentlemen talking Cockney.
+Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless to say, that I got lost.
+I wandered away into some dim corner of that dim shrubbery,
+where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent ropes,
+and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man,
+who stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle.
+When I thought he would pass me, he stopped before my face,
+and said, "Dr. Johnson, I think. I am Paley."
+
+"Sir," I said, "you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you
+will perform a yet higher and harder function."
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but,
+turning his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms
+and winding mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight
+and laughing men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am
+(you will say) naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient.
+I was, moreover, unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark
+and took a man for a spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise
+as a modern gentleman in a masquerade dress. No; far from it.
+That spectral person was my first introduction to a special incident
+which has never been explained and which still lays its finger
+on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled
+as one does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life
+and a great deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger
+than life; he ought to have been a little man in a night-cap,
+with a cat under one arm and a spaniel under the other.
+As it was, he was a magnificent person, and looked more
+like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog.
+When I came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful
+improvement upon himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog
+and cat and would not be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting
+to be kicked in the interests of philosophy. In short, I met all
+my old friends but one. Where was Paley? I had been mystically
+moved by the man's presence; I was moved more by his absence.
+At last I saw advancing towards us across the twilight garden
+a little man with a large book and a bright attractive face.
+When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear voice, "I'm Paley."
+The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was ill and had
+sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four
+or five colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual
+friend with Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke.
+Cowper, I think it was, who introduced me to a friend of his,
+a fresh face, square and sturdy, framed in a white wig.
+"This," he explained, "is my friend So-and-So. He's Paley."
+I looked round at all the faces by this time fixed and familiar;
+I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the third Paley
+as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this
+one particular cleric should be so varying and elusive.
+It was singular that Paley, alone among men, should swell and
+shrink and alter like a phantom, while all else remained solid.
+But the thing was explicable; two men had been ill and there
+was an end of it; only I went again the next night, and a
+clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair bounded up to me,
+and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition
+of the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural
+explanations have broken down and no supernatural explanation has
+been established. My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I
+found myself once more in the colour and clatter of the pageant,
+and I was all the more pleased because I met an old school-fellow,
+and we mutually recognised each other under our heavy clothes
+and hoary wigs. We talked about all those great things for which
+literature is too small and only life large enough; red-hot memories
+and those gigantic details which make up the characters of men.
+I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of and those he had
+kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked at last
+how he came into the pageant.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was. . . ."
+
+"No, by thunder!" I said, "nor does anyone."
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream.
+I scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure
+which fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased.
+What could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among
+the faithful found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity
+or the unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being
+could support being Paley for one night and live till morning?
+Or was it that the gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British
+public thirsting to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time?
+Or is there some ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret
+society of Deists still assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery;
+and that for two reasons. First, the story is so true
+that I have had to put a lie into it. Every word of this
+narrative is veracious, except the one word Paley.
+And second, because I have got to go into the next room
+and dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8092]
+Release Date: August 10, 2009
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer
+
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+By G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission of the
+Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared. They amount
+to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary recording one day in
+twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--the only kind of diary the
+author has ever been able to keep. Even that diary he could only keep
+by keeping it in public, for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the
+topics they are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive.
+As the reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages, it
+probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post, a window
+blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the reader is looking at
+something that he has never seen: that is, never realised. He could not
+write an essay on such a post or wall: he does not know what the post
+or wall mean. He could not even write the synopsis of an essay; as "The
+Bed-Post; Its Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night
+Felt as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture," and so on. He could
+not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards window-blinds, even
+in the form of a summary. "The Window-Blind--Its Analogy to the Curtain
+and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun,
+etc., etc." None of us think enough of these things on which the eye
+rests. But don't let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy?
+Let us exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that
+run across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be ocular
+athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or a coloured
+cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what follows; but anyone else
+may do it better, if anyone else will only try.
+
+
+ CONTENTS:
+
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon's Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+ XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+
+
+
+I. Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly in the
+front garden, because their villa was a model one. The front garden was
+about the same size as the dinner table; it consisted of four strips of
+gravel, a square of turf with some mysterious pieces of cork standing up
+in the middle and one flower bed with a row of red daisies. One morning
+while they were at play in these romantic grounds, a passing individual,
+probably the milkman, leaned over the railing and engaged them in
+philosophical conversation. The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter,
+were at least sharply interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who
+was, I need say, a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering
+them in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for. And
+Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness, explaining
+that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride across
+continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas in an afternoon
+dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from his breast pocket,
+waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner; and in an instant the
+model villa with its front garden was like a tiny doll's house at Paul's
+colossal feet. He went striding away with his head above the clouds to
+visit Niagara and the Himalayas. But when he came to the Himalayas,
+he found they were quite small and silly-looking, like the little cork
+rockery in the garden; and when he found Niagara it was no bigger than
+the tap turned on in the bathroom. He wandered round the world for
+several minutes trying to find something really large and finding
+everything small, till in sheer boredom he lay down on four or five
+prairies and fell asleep. Unfortunately his head was just outside the
+hut of an intellectual backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment
+with an axe in one hand and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the
+other. The man looked at the book and then at the giant, and then at the
+book again. And in the book it said, "It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe." So the
+backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and, working eight hours a
+day for about a week, cut the giant's head off; and there was an end of
+him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long wished to
+be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he immediately became
+one. When the transformation was over he found himself in the midst of
+an immense plain, covered with a tall green jungle and above which, at
+intervals, rose strange trees each with a head like the sun in symbolic
+pictures, with gigantic rays of silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward
+the middle of this prairie stood up a mountain of such romantic and
+impossible shape, yet of such stony height and dominance, that it looked
+like some incident of the end of the world. And far away on the faint
+horizon he could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more
+mystical, of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever.
+He set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has not
+come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced it is
+not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction. It is in fact
+the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating the pages that
+follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences upon European
+literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own preference in
+its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it by what little girls
+call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other great
+literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England by Mr.
+Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest by
+sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere. Let it
+be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight; and the
+two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school advises us
+to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without a frock coat. The
+school to which I belong suggests that we should stare steadily at the
+man until we see the man inside the frock coat. If we stare at him long
+enough he may even be moved to take off his coat to us; and that is a
+far greater compliment than his taking off his hat. In other words,
+we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely on the facts actually
+before us, force them to turn into adventures; force them to give up
+their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose. The purpose of the
+Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary things a man may
+see if he is active and strides from continent to continent like the
+giant in my tale. But the object of my school is to show how many
+extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man may see if he can spur
+himself to the single activity of seeing. For this purpose I have taken
+the laziest person of my acquaintance, that is myself; and made an idle
+diary of such odd things as I have fallen over by accident, in walking
+in a very limited area at a very indolent pace. If anyone says that
+these are very small affairs talked about in very big language, I can
+only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke. If anyone says that
+I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess with pride that it is
+so. I can imagine no more successful and productive form of manufacture
+than that of making mountains out of molehills. But I would add this not
+unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains; one has only to become a
+pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering, in getting
+to the top of everything and overlooking everything. Satan was the
+most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took Jesus to the top of an
+exceeding high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the earth.
+But the joy of Satan in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness,
+but a joy in beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like
+insects at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large; it is
+from the level that things look high; I am a child of the level and have
+no need of that celebrated Alpine guide. I will lift up my eyes to the
+hills, from whence cometh my help; but I will not lift up my carcass
+to the hills, unless it is absolutely necessary. Everything is in an
+attitude of mind; and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude. I
+will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle on me like
+flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you. The world will never
+starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.
+
+
+
+
+II. A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up a
+walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any brown
+paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she mistook
+the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper. She
+seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must be
+wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to
+do; indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental
+capacity. Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of
+toughness and endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only
+wanted to draw pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in
+the least; and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a
+question, not of tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing
+comparatively irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I
+wanted to draw she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently
+supposing that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper
+wrappers from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I not
+only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness in paper,
+just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods, or in beer,
+or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper represents the primal
+twilight of the first toil of creation, and with a bright-coloured
+chalk or two you can pick out points of fire in it, sparks of gold, and
+blood-red, and sea-green, like the first fierce stars that sprang out of
+divine darkness. All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman;
+and I put the brown paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and
+possibly other things. I suppose every one must have reflected how
+primeval and how poetical are the things that one carries in one's
+pocket; the pocket-knife, for instance, the type of all human tools, the
+infant of the sword. Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely
+about the things in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and
+the age of the great epics is past.
+
+.....
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper, I went out
+on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal contours that
+express the best quality of England, because they are at the same time
+soft and strong. The smoothness of them has the same meaning as the
+smoothness of great cart-horses, or the smoothness of the beech-tree;
+it declares in the teeth of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty
+are merciful. As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake. The
+villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see, for centuries;
+yet the lifting of the whole land was like the lifting of one enormous
+wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going to
+sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim, and blind
+old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right, and saints in
+robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green, and all the sacred
+or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright colours on brown paper.
+They are much better worth drawing than Nature; also they are much
+easier to draw. When a cow came slouching by in the field next to me, a
+mere artist might have drawn it; but I always get wrong in the hind legs
+of quadrupeds. So I drew the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly
+walking before me in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and
+silver, and had seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the
+beasts. But though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the
+landscape, it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the
+best out of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about
+the old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills; but
+they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much less about
+Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They painted the white
+robes of their holy virgins with the blinding snow, at which they had
+stared all day. They blazoned the shields of their paladins with the
+purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets. The greenness of a thousand
+green leaves clustered into the live green figure of Robin Hood. The
+blueness of a score of forgotten skies became the blue robes of the
+Virgin. The inspiration went in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+.....
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that
+a most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential. I
+cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the wise
+and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this, that white
+is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is a shining and
+affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as black. When, so
+to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses; when it grows
+white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three defiant verities
+of the best religious morality, of real Christianity, for example, is
+exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of religious morality
+is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence of vices or the
+avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and separate thing, like
+pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean not being cruel or
+sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a plain and positive
+thing like the sun, which one has either seen or not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means something
+flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in many colours; but
+He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost said so gaudily, as when
+He paints in white. In a sense our age has realised this fact, and
+expressed it in our sullen costume. For if it were really true that
+white was a blank and colourless thing, negative and non-committal, then
+white would be used instead of black and grey for the funeral dress of
+this pessimistic period. We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of
+spotless silver linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies.
+Which is not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+.....
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town nearer than
+Chichester at which it was even remotely probable that there would be
+such a thing as an artist's colourman. And yet, without white, my absurd
+little pictures would be as pointless as the world would be if there
+were no good people in it. I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for
+expedients. Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and
+again, so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine
+a man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some salt
+water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on an immense
+warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made entirely out of white
+chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until it met the sky. I stooped
+and broke a piece off the rock I sat on; it did not mark so well as the
+shop chalks do; but it gave the effect. And I stood there in a trance
+of pleasure, realising that this Southern England is not only a grand
+peninsula, and a tradition and a civilisation; it is something even more
+admirable. It is a piece of chalk.
+
+
+
+
+III. The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a loose
+memory. I will not merely say that this story is true: because, as you
+will soon see, it is all truth and no story. It has no explanation and
+no conclusion; it is, like most of the other things we encounter in
+life, a fragment of something else which would be intensely exciting if
+it were not too large to be seen. For the perplexity of life arises from
+there being too many interesting things in it for us to be interested
+properly in any of them; what we call its triviality is really the
+tag-ends of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like
+ten thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon. My
+experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate, not
+fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents (what there were
+of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere of the landscape, which
+were the whole horror of the thing. I remember them vividly, and they
+were as I shall now describe.
+
+.....
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing outside
+the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London. And
+for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind or the
+emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice fell upon
+me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step out on the
+road and walk at least some part of the way to London. I do not know
+if other people are made like me in this matter; but to me it is always
+dreary weather, what may be called useless weather, that slings into
+life a sense of action and romance. On bright blue days I do not want
+anything to happen; the world is complete and beautiful, a thing for
+contemplation. I no more ask for adventures under that turquoise dome
+than I ask for adventures in church. But when the background of man's
+life is a grey background, then, in the name of man's sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail man
+refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in letters
+of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall happen, then the
+immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises up and decrees that
+something shall happen, if it be only the slaughter of a policeman. But
+this is a digressive way of stating what I have said already--that
+the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger for some change of plans, that the
+monotonous weather seemed to render unbearable the use of the monotonous
+train, and that I set out into the country lanes, out of the town of
+Oxford. It was, perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came
+upon me out of the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years
+afterwards I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir
+George Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless. The
+fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies; the
+tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds and as
+cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening was closing in.
+A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon, as if pale with reluctance
+to leave the world in the dark. And as it faded more and more the skies
+seemed to come closer and to threaten. The clouds which had been merely
+sullen became swollen; and then they loosened and let down the dark
+curtains of the rain. The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like
+blows from an enemy at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and
+bawling in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man, and
+in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met him I asked
+him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up the train for
+Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station (I cannot even
+remember the name of it) which stood well away from the road and looked
+as lonely as a hut on the Andes. I do not think I have ever seen such a
+type of time and sadness and scepticism and everything devilish as that
+station was: it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking wood of
+it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome liquid corruption
+of the wood itself; as if the solid station were eternally falling to
+pieces and pouring away in filth. It took me nearly ten minutes to find
+a man in the station. When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him
+if there was a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As
+far as I understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail of the
+tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain. It may have
+been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather slowly into the
+station. It was an unnaturally dark train; I could not see a light
+anywhere in the long black body of it; and I could not see any guard
+running beside it. I was reduced to walking up to the engine and calling
+out to the stoker to ask if the train was going to London. "Well--yes,
+sir," he said, with an unaccountable kind of reluctance. "It is going
+to London; but----" It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering, as we
+steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined with desolate
+poplars, until we slowed down and stopped, irrationally, in the middle
+of a field. I heard a heavy noise as of some one clambering off the
+train, and a dark, ragged head suddenly put itself into my window.
+"Excuse me, sir," said the stoker, "but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps
+you ought to know--there's a dead man in this train."
+
+.....
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be finally
+overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have insisted on
+getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to say, I expressed myself
+politely, but firmly, to the effect that I didn't care particularly if
+the train took me to Paddington. But when the train had started with
+its unknown burden I did do one thing, and do it quite instinctively,
+without stopping to think, or to think more than a flash. I threw
+away my cigar. Something that is as old as man and has to do with
+all mourning and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there being
+only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the other smoking
+a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end of it faded like a
+funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic moment of a procession,
+I realised how immortal ritual is. I realised (what is the origin and
+essence of all ritual) that in the presence of those sacred riddles
+about which we can say nothing it is more decent merely to do something.
+And I realised that ritual will always mean throwing away something;
+DESTROYING our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang out of
+it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier and officials
+guarding the rear part of the train; no one was allowed to press towards
+it. They were guarding and hiding something; perhaps death in some too
+shocking form, perhaps something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up
+with human mystery and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of
+sanctity; perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough
+into the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces.
+Nor have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+
+
+IV. The Perfect Game
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have happened to
+him, but that he does not really believe that they were supernatural. My
+own position is the opposite of this. I believe in the supernatural as a
+matter of intellect and reason, not as a matter of personal experience.
+I do not see ghosts; I only see their inherent probability. But it is
+entirely a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy. But
+upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often leave a
+peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance that ever occurred
+to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted in nothing less than my
+playing a game, and playing it quite well for some seventeen consecutive
+minutes. The ghost of my grandfather would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and luxuriant
+side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene. I played
+it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had a
+semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest. It
+is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument; but
+it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+"Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!" I cried, patting him affectionately on the
+head with a mallet, "how far you really are from the pure love of the
+sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly who love the Game
+itself. You love glory; you love applause; you love the earthquake voice
+of victory; you do not love croquet. You do not love croquet until
+you love being beaten at croquet. It is we the bunglers who adore the
+occupation in the abstract. It is we to whom it is art for art's sake.
+If we may see the face of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself)
+we are content to see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is
+called amateurish; and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs
+is but the French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady,
+the most disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates
+(I allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within the pedantic
+boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek honour in the ends
+of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds and the conservatory; they
+are to be found in the front garden and the next street. No, Parkinson!
+The good painter has skill. It is the bad painter who loves his art. The
+good musician loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With
+such a pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or tape,
+as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland, the four
+seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and the click of
+the balls is music. The four colours are to me sacramental and symbolic,
+like the red of martyrdom, or the white of Easter Day. You lose all
+this, my poor Parkinson. You have to solace yourself for the absence of
+this vision by the paltry consolation of being able to go through hoops
+and to hit the stick."
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+"Don't be too sorry for me," said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm. "I
+shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more a man likes
+a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that the pleasure
+in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure of success come
+naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your own simile of the
+Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman does first and foremost
+want to be in the lady's presence. But I never yet heard of a gentleman
+who wanted to look an utter ass when he was there."
+
+"Perhaps not; though he generally looks it," I replied. "But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the love
+of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not true
+that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger will
+be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to enjoy
+it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant hoop as
+easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would not put it
+through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your hand; it would
+not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you would not play at
+all. The moment the game is perfect the game disappears."
+
+"I do not think, however," said Parkinson, "that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not think
+your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence. You are
+safe for the present."
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired
+myself, and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four more
+fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five more
+hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+"We shall have to give this up," said Parkinson, as he missed a ball
+almost for the first time, "I can't see a thing."
+
+"Nor can I," I answered, "and it is a comfort to reflect that I could
+not hit anything if I saw it."
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was the
+right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I supposed
+was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick. And in the dead
+silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. "I can't stand this," I said. "My ball has gone
+right three times. These things are not of this world."
+
+"Pick your mallet up," said Parkinson, "have another go."
+
+"I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see all
+the devils dancing there on the blessed grass."
+
+"Why devils?" asked Parkinson; "they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game."
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness, in which
+the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across the grass
+as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull click
+of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+
+
+V. The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper columns.
+I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better expressed
+by some practical parable out of daily life than by any other method;
+therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the extraordinary cabman,
+which occurred to me only three days ago, and which, slight as it
+apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine emotion bordering upon
+despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching in a little
+restaurant in Soho in company with three or four of my best friends. My
+best friends are all either bottomless sceptics or quite uncontrollable
+believers, so our discussion at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate
+and terrible ideas. And the whole argument worked out ultimately to
+this: that the question is whether a man can be certain of anything
+at all. I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible intellectually
+to entertain certainty, what is this certainty which it is impossible
+to entertain? If I have never experienced such a thing as certainty I
+cannot even say that a thing is not certain. Similarly, if I have never
+experienced such a thing as green I cannot even say that my nose is not
+green. It may be as green as possible for all I know, if I have really
+no experience of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the
+room; because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing. And
+the difference between us was very deep, because it was a difference as
+to the object of the whole thing called broad-mindedness or the opening
+of the intellect. For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the
+sun opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening's sake, opening
+infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened my intellect as I opened
+my mouth, in order to shut it again on something solid. I was doing
+it at the moment. And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly
+silly if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+.....
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short (for
+it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions, who in
+the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election had somehow
+become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab from the
+corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House of
+Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper is a
+discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude of
+detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab on a few
+hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I had to visit. I
+then got out and offered him more than his fare. He looked at it, but
+not with the surly doubt and general disposition to try it on which is
+not unknown among normal cabmen. But this was no normal, perhaps, no
+human, cabman. He looked at it with a dull and infantile astonishment,
+clearly quite genuine. "Do you know, sir," he said, "you've only given
+me 1s.8d?" I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. "Now you
+know, sir," said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, "you know
+that ain't the fare from Euston." "Euston," I repeated vaguely, for the
+phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia. "What on
+earth has Euston got to do with it?" "You hailed me just outside Euston
+Station," began the man with astonishing precision, "and then you
+said----" "What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?" I said
+with Christian forbearance; "I took you at the south-west corner of
+Leicester-square." "Leicester-square," he exclaimed, loosening a kind of
+cataract of scorn, "why we ain't been near Leicester-square to-day. You
+hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----" "Are you mad, or am
+I?" I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would think of
+creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie. And this man was
+not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human face was heavy and simple and
+humble, and with great big blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever
+(in short) a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and down the
+street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming on. And for one
+second the old nightmare of the sceptic put its finger on my nerve. What
+was certainty? Was anybody certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the
+dull rut of the sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future
+life. The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we possess a
+past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically considered, except
+a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew deeper from the road. The
+cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate details of the gesture, the
+words, the complex but consistent course of action which I had adopted
+since that remarkable occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston
+Station. How did I know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not
+hailed him outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite
+equally firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I,
+and a member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment the
+universe and the stars swung just a hair's breadth from their balance,
+and the foundations of the earth were moved. But for the same reason
+that I believe in Democracy, for the same reason that I believe in free
+will, for the same reason that I believe in fixed character of virtue,
+the reason that could only be expressed by saying that I do not choose
+to be a lunatic, I continued to believe that this honest cabman was
+wrong, and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and ponderous
+sincerity, "You hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----"
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind of frightful
+transfiguration of living astonishment, as if he had been lit up like
+a lamp from the inside. "Why, I beg your pardon, sir," he said. "I beg
+your pardon. I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I
+remember now. I beg your pardon." And with that this astonishing man let
+out his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+.....
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance and the
+mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying that although his
+face had seemed so honest there was something unearthly and demoniac
+about him when seen from behind. Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me
+from my adherence to those sanities and certainties which I had defended
+earlier in the day. In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that
+my sense of reality, though it had rocked for an instant, had remained
+erect.
+
+
+
+
+VI. An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called "The
+Extraordinary Cabman." I am now in a position to contribute my
+experience of a still more extraordinary cab. The extraordinary thing
+about the cab was that it did not like me; it threw me out violently in
+the middle of the Strand. If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are
+as romantic (and as rich) as I take them to be, I presume that this
+experience is not uncommon. I suppose that they are all being thrown out
+of cabs, all over London. Still, as there are some people, virginal and
+remote from the world, who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I
+will give a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--that
+one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged, will
+gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that it is
+both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in these two
+respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came to grief.
+But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it belongs to a
+beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is pretending to be
+richer than they are, and acting as if they were. It is comfortable, and
+yet it is reckless; and that combination is the very soul of England.
+But although I had always realised all these good qualities in a hansom
+cab, I had not experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put
+it, all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits of a
+hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up. Let me,
+therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom cab for the
+first and, I am happy to believe, the last time. Polycrates threw one
+ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates. I have thrown one hansom
+cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather violent metaphor) and the
+Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated. Though I am told they do not
+like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one of the
+sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own admirable
+articles with continual pleasure, and still more continual surprise,
+when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment on the scraping stones,
+staggered to his feet again, and went forward. The horses in my cabs
+often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy my own articles at any angle
+of the vehicle. So I did not see anything at all odd about the way
+the horse went on again. But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the
+people on the pavement. They were all turned towards me, and they were
+all struck with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky. And
+one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the elbow as if
+warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse. Then I knew that
+the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse was like a living
+thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly as they seemed to me;
+many details I may have missed or mis-stated; many details may have,
+so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road. I remember that I
+once called one of my experiences narrated in this paper "A Fragment of
+Fact." This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact. No fact could possibly
+be more fragmentary than the sort of fact that I expected to be at the
+bottom of that street.
+
+.....
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally found that
+the converted do not understand their own religion. Thus I have always
+urged in this paper that democracy has a deeper meaning than democrats
+understand; that is, that common and popular things, proverbs, and
+ordinary sayings always have something in them unrealised by most who
+repeat them. Here is one. We have all heard about the man who is in
+momentary danger, and who sees the whole of his life pass before him
+in a moment. In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is
+obviously a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident or
+a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets he had ever
+taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever passed the brown
+bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards the traffic
+of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth behind this phrase,
+as there is behind all popular phrases. I did really have, in that short
+and shrieking period, a rapid succession of a number of fundamental
+points of view. I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as
+many seconds. My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere
+men is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded a
+state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper name has ever
+been found. The ancients called it Stoicism, and I think it must be what
+some German lunatics mean (if they mean anything) when they talk
+about Pessimism. It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that
+happens--as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously
+enough, came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic. It was
+a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that life was much
+too important ever to be anything but life. I hope that this was
+Christianity. At any rate, it occurred at the moment when we went crash
+into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling out from
+underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they must have added
+enormously to that great cause to which the Anti-Puritan League and I
+have recently dedicated ourselves. I mean the cause of the pleasures of
+the people. As to my demeanour when I emerged, I have two confessions to
+make, and they are both made merely in the interests of mental science.
+The first is that whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the
+moment before the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got
+off with a cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped. I can
+distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state of irremediable
+spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now, and I apologise both to
+the man and to the paper. I have not the least idea what was the meaning
+of this unnatural anger; I mention it as a psychological confession. It
+was immediately followed by extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly
+jokes to the policeman that he disgraced himself by continual laughter
+before all the little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him
+seriously.
+
+.....
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention as
+a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain. At intervals of
+about every three minutes I kept on reminding the policeman that I had
+not paid the cabman, and that I hoped he would not lose his money. He
+said it would be all right, and the man would appear. But it was not
+until about half an hour afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a
+shock intolerable that the man might conceivably have lost more
+than half a crown; that he had been in danger as well as I. I had
+instinctively regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents,
+a god. I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more
+delicate charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin,
+and neglect the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I
+was once really tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might
+have been dead. Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross
+Hospital tied up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand.
+I felt upon me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something
+untried. So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+
+
+VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement and
+casting about for some phrase of consolation that should not be either
+insolent or weak, said at last, "I think one can live through these
+great sorrows and even be the better. What wears one is the little
+worries." "That's quite right, mum," answered the old woman with
+emphasis, "and I ought to know, seeing I've had ten of 'em." It is,
+perhaps, in this sense that it is most true that little worries are most
+wearing. In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a
+truth, contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the right to say
+that they find the small ones the most bitter; and it is undoubtedly
+true that the back which is bowed under loads incredible can feel a
+faint addition to those loads; a giant holding up the earth and all
+its animal creation might still find the grasshopper a burden. But I
+am afraid that the maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is
+sometimes used or abused by people, because they have nothing but the
+very smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity she
+would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman may permit
+himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he would behave much
+better if it were a mere matter of starvation. We need not deny that
+the grasshopper on man's shoulder is a burden; but we need not pay much
+respect to the gentleman who is always calling out that he would rather
+have an elephant when he knows there are no elephants in the country. We
+may concede that a straw may break the camel's back, but we like to know
+that it really is the last straw and not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right to grumble,
+so long as they grumble about something else. It is a singular fact that
+if they are sane they almost always do grumble about something else. To
+talk quite reasonably about your own quite real wrongs is the quickest
+way to go off your head. But people with great troubles talk about
+little ones, and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very
+often has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly a very
+clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified in asking
+that he shall not make mountains out of molehills. I do no deny that
+molehills can sometimes be important. Small annoyances have this
+evil about them, that they can be more abrupt because they are more
+invisible; they cast no shadow before, they have no atmosphere. No
+one ever had a mystical premonition that he was going to tumble over a
+hassock. William III. died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose
+that with all his varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a
+mountain. But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask
+a happy man (not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences,
+and even make them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive
+poverty I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts, finding
+unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse, finding
+punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures to be drawn
+from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence because I have
+recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures which arise
+from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot, with the only
+alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--a stork is a
+poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if the thing
+itself symbolise something other than isolation. If we wish to see what
+a house is it must be a house in some uninhabited landscape. If we wish
+to depict what a man really is we must depict a man alone in a desert or
+on a dark sea sand. So long as he is a single figure he means all that
+humanity means; so long as he is solitary he means human society; so
+long as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship. Add another
+figure and the picture is less human--not more so. One is company, two
+is none. If you wish to symbolise human building draw one dark tower on
+the horizon; if you wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the
+sky. Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we call our day
+there is but one star in the sky--a large, fierce star which we call the
+sun. One sun is splendid; six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of
+Giotto is sublime; a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row
+of white posts. The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower;
+the poetry of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping the
+single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find the poetry of
+all human anatomy in standing on a single leg. To express complete and
+perfect leggishness the leg must stand in sublime isolation, like the
+tower in the wilderness. As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is
+that which stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity of some Doric
+column. The students of architecture tell us that the only legitimate
+use of a column is to support weight. This column of mine fulfils its
+legitimate function. It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic
+consistency, it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness or dislocation
+of the one leg may find compensation in the astonishing strength and
+classic beauty of the other leg. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr.
+George Meredith's novel might pass by at any moment, and seeing me in
+the stork-like attitude would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more
+literal exactitude, "He has a leg." Notice how this famous literary
+phrase supports my contention touching this isolation of any admirable
+thing. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg. She
+delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive fact
+that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous and irrelevant,
+a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have confused Mrs.
+Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London. That having had one
+good leg he should have another--this would be to use vain repetitions
+as the Gentiles do. She would have been as much bewildered by him as if
+he had been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity, all
+desolation has for its real aim this separation of something so that it
+may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel grateful for the slight
+sprain which has introduced this mysterious and fascinating division
+between one of my feet and the other. The way to love anything is to
+realise that it might be lost. In one of my feet I can feel how strong
+and splendid a foot is; in the other I can realise how very much
+otherwise it might have been. The moral of the thing is wholly
+exhilarating. This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us. If you
+wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself if only for a
+moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully and wonderfully God's image
+is made, stand on one leg. If you want to realise the splendid vision of
+all visible things--wink the other eye.
+
+
+
+
+VIII. The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious town
+of Besanon, which stands like a sort of peninsula in a horse-shoe of
+river. You may learn from the guide books that it was the birthplace of
+Victor Hugo, and that it is a military station with many forts, near the
+French frontier. But you will not learn from guide books that the very
+tiles on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate colour
+than the tiles of all the other towns of the world; that the tiles look
+like the little clouds of some strange sunset, or like the lustrous
+scales of some strange fish. They will not tell you that in this
+town the eye cannot rest on anything without finding it in some way
+attractive and even elvish, a carved face at a street corner, a gleam of
+green fields through a stunted arch, or some unexpected colour for the
+enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+.....
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours so simple
+and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together and make a fairy
+tale. I sat down for a little outside a caf with a row of little toy
+trees in front of it, and presently the driver of a fly (as we should
+call it) came to the same place. He was one of those very large and dark
+Frenchmen, a type not common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian
+Frenchman, huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was
+a sort of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but
+English. And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two
+nations. For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets, this
+Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--as if pleasure
+were a kind of pagan religion. After some talk which was full of the
+admirable civility and equality of French civilisation, he suggested
+without either eagerness or embarrassment that he should take me in his
+fly for an hour's ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was
+growing late I consented; for there was one long white road under an
+archway and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord. We
+drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans, and I
+remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we passed out of
+the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds which are the trinity
+of France. They make what some poet calls "a tangled trinity," and I am
+not going to disentangle it. Whatever those three things mean, how
+or why they co-exist; whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are
+reconciled already; the three sounds I heard then by an accident all
+at once make up the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino
+gardens behind me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some
+ramping tune from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on
+I heard also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible
+loyalties and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+.....
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having left
+France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world. And, indeed,
+there was something in the landscape wild enough to encourage such
+a fancy. I have seen perhaps higher mountains, but I have never
+seen higher rocks; I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and
+sensational, splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of
+churches, cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from
+heaven. There was also a quality in the ride which was not only
+astonishing, but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have
+noticed if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads. I mean
+a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole earth turning about one's
+head. It is quite inadequate to say that the hills rose and fell like
+enormous waves. Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the
+enormous sails of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic
+wings. As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset
+this dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof. I stared
+at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a wooded plain. Below
+me steeps of green swept down to the river. I stared at them until I
+fancied that they swept up to the sky. The purple darkened, night drew
+nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer the chasms and draw higher the
+spires of that nightmare landscape. Above me in the twilight was
+the huge black hulk of the driver, and his broad, blank back was as
+mysterious as the back of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I was
+growing too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things. I
+called out to the driver in French, "Where are you taking me?" and it
+is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same language
+without turning around, "To the end of the world."
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark, steep ways, until
+I saw lights under a low roof of little trees and two children, one
+oddly beautiful, playing at ball. Then we found ourselves filling up the
+strict main street of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was
+written in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place. I ordered
+bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but had no name. On
+the other side of the road was a little plain church with a cross on top
+of it and a cock on top of the cross. This seemed to me a very good end
+of the world; if the story of the world ended here it ended well. Then
+I wondered whether I myself should really be content to end here, where
+most certainly there were the best things of Christendom--a church and
+children's games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me, and at
+last I started up.
+
+"Are you not satisfied?" asked my companion. "No," I said, "I am not
+satisfied even at the end of the world."
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, "Because you see there are two ends of
+the world. And this is the wrong end of the world; at least the wrong
+one for me. This is the French end of the world. I want the other end of
+the world. Drive me to the other end of the world."
+
+"The other end of the world?" he asked. "Where is that?"
+
+"It is in Walham Green," I whispered hoarsely. "You see it on the London
+omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.' Oh, I know how good this is;
+I love your vineyards and your free peasantry, but I want the English
+end of the world. I love you like a brother, but I want an English
+cabman, who will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman. Take, oh, take me
+to see a London policeman."
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset, and I could
+not tell whether he understood or not. I got back into his carriage.
+
+"You will understand," I said, "if ever you are an exile even for
+pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country, as a
+countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is rather too long
+a drive to the English end of the world, we may as well drive back to
+Besanon."
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept for Walham
+Green.
+
+
+
+
+IX. In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a caf in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with a
+capering figure, which stands in the place where the people destroyed a
+prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious example of how symbolic
+is the great part of human history. As a matter of mere material fact,
+the Bastille when it was taken was not a horrible prison; it was hardly
+a prison at all. But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a
+sure instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance, at the last
+General Election, or for President Kruger's hat in the election before;
+their poetic sense is perfect. The Chinaman with his pigtail is not
+an idle flippancy. He does typify with a compact precision exactly
+the thing the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots, that it
+is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy and evil magic
+calling monsters from the ends of the earth. The people hate the mine
+owner who can bring a Chinaman flying across the sea, exactly as the
+people hated the wizard who could fetch a flying dragon through the air.
+It was the same with Mr. Kruger's hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was
+not merely a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the
+exact thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the unbeautiful
+dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of political morality.
+No; the people are sometimes wrong on the practical side of politics;
+they are never wrong on the artistic side.
+
+.....
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform. It was
+an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image. The people saw the
+building like a giant looking at them with a score of eyes, and they
+struck at it as at a carved fact. For of all the shapes in which that
+immense illusion called materialism can terrify the soul, perhaps the
+most oppressive are big buildings. Man feels like a fly, an accident,
+in the thing he has himself made. It requires a violent effort of the
+spirit to remember that man made this confounding thing and man could
+unmake it. Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual, a ritual
+meaning far beyond its immediate political results. It is a religious
+service. If, for instance, the Socialists were numerous or courageous
+enough to capture and smash up the Bank of England, you might argue for
+ever about the inutility of the act, and how it really did not touch the
+root of the economic problem in the correct manner. But mankind would
+never forget it. It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength of a society,
+for the most valuable things in a human state are the irrevocable
+things--marriage, for instance. And architecture approaches nearer than
+any other art to being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get
+rid of. You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall. You
+can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of very sincere emotion
+that you tear a town-hall to pieces. A building is akin to dogma; it
+is insolent, like a dogma. Whether or no it is permanent, it claims
+permanence like a dogma. People ask why we have no typical architecture
+of the modern world, like impressionism in painting. Surely it is
+obviously because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in the sky that
+does not change like the clouds of the sky. But along with this decision
+which is involved in creating a building, there goes a quite similar
+decision in the more delightful task of smashing one. The two of
+necessity go together. In few places have so many fine public buildings
+been set up as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been
+destroyed. When people have finally got into the horrible habit of
+preserving buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few are
+pulled down.
+
+.....
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty and
+Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like so many
+such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and silent line of
+horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and prosaic enough,
+but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their helmets; and their
+helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans. I had seen them
+by twos and threes often enough before. I had seen plenty of them in
+pictures toiling through the snows of Friedland or roaring round
+the squares at Waterloo. But now they came file after file, like an
+invasion, and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that
+lit up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie into
+which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet and cry out,
+"The French soldiers!" There were the little men with the brown faces
+that had so often ridden through the capitals of Europe as coolly as
+they now rode through their own. And when I looked across the square I
+saw that the two other corners were choked with blue and red; held
+by little groups of infantry. The city was garrisoned as against a
+revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker. He
+said he was not going to "Chomer." I said, "Qu'est-ce que c'est que le
+chome?" He said, "Ils ne veulent pas travailler." I said, "Ni moi non
+plus," and he thought I was a class-conscious collectivist proletarian.
+The whole thing was curious, and the true moral of it one not easy for
+us, as a nation, to grasp, because our own faults are so deeply and
+dangerously in the other direction. To me, as an Englishman (personally
+steeped in the English optimism and the English dislike of severity),
+the whole thing seemed a fuss about nothing. It looked like turning out
+one of the best armies in Europe against ordinary people walking
+about the street. The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less
+harmlessly. But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not) as docile as
+the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled, so to speak,
+through the whole noisy night. This people has a natural faculty for
+feeling itself on the eve of something--of the Bartholomew or the
+Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment. It is this sense of
+crisis that makes France eternally young. It is perpetually pulling down
+and building up, as it pulled down the prison and put up the column
+in the Place de La Bastille. France has always been at the point of
+dissolution. She has found the only method of immortality. She dies
+daily.
+
+
+
+
+X. On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience if
+only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic apparatus on the
+premises. I think myself that the thing might be managed with several
+pails of Aspinall and a broom. Only if one worked in a really sweeping
+and masterly way, and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip
+down again on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages. I am afraid
+it would be necessary to stick to black and white in this form of
+artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed, the white ceiling would
+be of the greatest possible use; in fact, it is the only use I think of
+a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces in
+a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, "Il me faut des gants."
+But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern rooms
+such as we all live in I was continually disappointed. I found an
+endless pattern and complication of small objects hung like a curtain of
+fine links between me and my desire. I examined the walls; I found them
+to my surprise to be already covered with wallpaper, and I found the
+wallpaper to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand why one
+arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely devoid of any religious
+or philosophical significance) should thus be sprinkled all over my
+nice walls like a sort of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to
+wallpapers, I think, when it says, "Use not vain repetitions, as the
+Gentiles do." I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called Turkish
+Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight really is; but I
+suppose it is Macedonian Massacres. Everywhere that I went forlornly,
+with my pencil or my paint brush, I found that others had unaccountably
+been before me, spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with
+their childish and barbaric designs.
+
+.....
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this
+occasion when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying
+on my back in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my
+vision, that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom. But alas!
+like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found to be unattainable;
+it looks more austere and more distant than the blue sky outside the
+window. For my proposal to paint on it with the bristly end of a broom
+has been discouraged--never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all
+political rights--and even my minor proposal to put the other end of
+the broom into the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been
+conceded. Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that
+all the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods. I am
+sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged in the ancient
+and honourable occupation of lying in bed that he ever realized how the
+roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made into an awful imitation of a
+divine drama that could only be acted in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed is
+hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity that seem to
+mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing and dangerous than
+the exultation of very small and secondary matters of conduct at the
+expense of very great and primary ones, at the expense of eternal ties
+and tragic human morality. If there is one thing worse than the modern
+weakening of major morals, it is the modern strengthening of minor
+morals. Thus it is considered more withering to accuse a man of bad
+taste than of bad ethics. Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays,
+for cleanliness is made essential and godliness is regarded as an
+offence. A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long as
+he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met Ibsenite
+pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right to take prussic
+acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene; notably such matters
+as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded, as it ought to be, as
+a matter of personal convenience and adjustment, it has come to be
+regarded by many as if it were a part of essential morals to get up
+early in the morning. It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but
+there is nothing good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+.....
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get
+up the night before. It is the great peril of our society that all its
+mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows more fickle.
+A man's minor actions and arrangements ought to be free, flexible,
+creative; the things that should be unchangeable are his principles, his
+ideals. But with us the reverse is true; our views change constantly;
+but our lunch does not change. Now, I should like men to have strong and
+rooted conceptions, but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes
+in the garden, sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the
+top of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles, but let
+them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon. This alarming growth of
+good habits really means a too great emphasis on those virtues which
+mere custom can ensure, it means too little emphasis on those virtues
+which custom can never quite ensure, sudden and splendid virtues of
+inspired pity or of inspired candour. If ever that abrupt appeal is made
+to us we may fail. A man can get use to getting up at five o'clock in
+the morning. A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his
+opinions; the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little
+more attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed of an
+almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed (like
+journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done in bed (as,
+for example, the professional harpooners of whales), it is obvious that
+the indulgence must be very occasional. But that is not the caution
+I mean. The caution is this: if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it
+without any reason or justification at all. I do not speak, of course,
+of the seriously sick. But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it
+without a rag of excuse; then he will get up a healthy man. If he
+does it for some secondary hygienic reason, if he has some scientific
+explanation, he may get up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+
+
+XI. The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I
+was, so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden and
+arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea, and
+my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were also
+summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions of
+men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began with a
+C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping alphabetical
+way. At one official blow, so to speak, Battersea is denuded of all its
+C's, and left to get on as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A
+Cumberpatch is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--three
+Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children are crying out
+for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street corner is weeping
+for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted. We settle down with a
+rollicking ease into our seats (for we are a bold, devil-may-care race,
+the C's of Battersea), and an oath is administered to us in a totally
+inaudible manner by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his
+second childhood. We understand, however, that we are to well and truly
+try the case between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the
+bar, neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+.....
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner were,
+perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some adjoining public
+house, the prisoner's head appears above the barrier of the dock; he
+is accused of stealing bicycles, and he is the living image of a great
+friend of mine. We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the prisoner in
+the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the conclusion, after a brief
+but reasonable discussion, that the King is not in any way implicated.
+Then we pass on to a woman who neglected her children, and who looks as
+if somebody or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who
+fancy that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances and the brain
+passed these light criticisms, there was in the heart a barbaric pity
+and fear which men have never been able to utter from the beginning, but
+which is the power behind half the poems of the world. The mood cannot
+even adequately be suggested, except faintly by this statement that
+tragedy is the highest expression of the infinite value of human
+life. Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away from
+pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these dark emotions
+at all, for speech about them is too difficult; but I mention them now
+for a specific and particular reason to the statement of which I will
+proceed at once. I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of
+them there came a curious realisation of a political or social truth. I
+saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what a jury really
+is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers because
+they fight better, trained singers because they sing better, trained
+dancers because they dance better, specially instructed laughers because
+they laugh better, and so on and so on. The principle has been applied
+to law and politics by innumerable modern writers. Many Fabians have
+insisted that a greater part of our political work should be performed
+by experts. Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should
+be altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+.....
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable, I do
+not know that there would be any fault to find with this. But the true
+result of all experience and the true foundation of all religion is
+this. That the four or five things that it is most practically essential
+that a man should know, are all of them what people call paradoxes. That
+is to say, that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty of seeming
+verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance, is the unimpeachable
+platitude that the man who finds most pleasure for himself is often the
+man who least hunts for it. Another is the paradox of courage; the fact
+that the way to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful cliff
+above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness. Whoever will
+lose his life, the same shall save it; an entirely practical and prosaic
+statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught to every
+infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following: That the more a
+man looks at a thing, the less he can see it, and the more a man learns
+a thing the less he knows it. The Fabian argument of the expert,
+that the man who is trained should be the man who is trusted would be
+absolutely unanswerable if it were really true that a man who studied
+a thing and practiced it every day went on seeing more and more of its
+significance. But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its
+significance. In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we
+are continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility, seeing
+less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+.....
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of
+men. But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can to
+other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun. And
+the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best, about all
+judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen, is not
+that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they are stupid
+(several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply that they have got
+used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they see is
+the usual man in the usual place. They do not see the awful court of
+judgment; they only see their own workshop. Therefore, the instinct
+of Christian civilisation has most wisely declared that into their
+judgments there shall upon every occasion be infused fresh blood and
+fresh thoughts from the streets. Men shall come in who can see the court
+and the crowd, and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional
+criminals, the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture or a
+play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided, that determining
+the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too important to be trusted to
+trained men. It wishes for light upon that awful matter, it asks men who
+know no more law than I know, but who can feel the things that I felt
+in the jury box. When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system
+discovered, or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when
+it wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve of
+the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I remember
+right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+
+
+XII. The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf about
+the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks and roars in
+something that is at once exultation and agony. I feel, in fact, as if
+I were actually sitting at the bottom of the sea among mere anchors and
+ropes, while over my head and over the green twilight of water sounded
+the everlasting rush of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of
+tremendous ships. The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck
+them root and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy, the
+trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they were a tribe of
+dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible and violent
+witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind. I remember a little boy of
+my acquaintance who was once walking in Battersea Park under just such
+torn skies and tossing trees. He did not like the wind at all; it blew
+in his face too much; it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his
+hat, of which he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about
+four. After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said at
+last to his mother, "Well, why don't you take away the trees, and then
+it wouldn't wind."
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake. Any
+one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy that they were
+indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere waving agitated the
+air around them for miles. Nothing, I say, could be more human and
+excusable than the belief that it is the trees which make the wind.
+Indeed, the belief is so human and excusable that it is, as a matter
+of fact, the belief of about ninety-nine out of a hundred of the
+philosophers, reformers, sociologists, and politicians of the great age
+in which we live. My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal
+modern thinkers; only much nicer.
+
+.....
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour of
+inventing, the trees stand for all visible things and the wind for the
+invisible. The wind is the spirit which bloweth where it listeth; the
+trees are the material things of the world which are blown where the
+spirit lists. The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees
+are cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind because
+the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad. We only know that there
+is a real revolution because all the chimney-pots go mad on the whole
+skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more ragged and
+rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails, so the human city rises
+under the wind of the spirit into toppling temples or sudden spires. No
+man has ever seen a revolution. Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood
+pouring down the gutters, the guillotine lifted higher than the throne,
+a prison in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind. So,
+also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that there is a
+revolution. And there never has been in the history of the world a real
+revolution, brutally active and decisive, which was not preceded by
+unrest and new dogma in the reign of invisible things. All revolutions
+began by being abstract. Most revolutions began by being quite
+pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved. So
+there must always be a battle in the sky before there is a battle on the
+earth. Since it is lawful to pray for the coming of the kingdom, it is
+lawful also to pray for the coming of the revolution that shall restore
+the kingdom. It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the
+trees. It is lawful to pray "Thine anger come on earth as it is in
+Heaven."
+
+.....
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees. The great
+human heresy is that the trees move the wind. When people begin to
+say that the material circumstances have alone created the moral
+circumstances, then they have prevented all possibility of serious
+change. For if my circumstances have made me wholly stupid, how can I be
+certain even that I am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment is
+simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--including
+that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate authority is
+necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking. And nothing will
+ever be reformed in this age or country unless we realise that the moral
+fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard in
+debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists and
+total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty; the former
+say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their either of
+them being content with such simple physical explanations. Surely it
+is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat leads to
+poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink; the absence
+of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct that resists
+degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has this
+quality, which may strictly be called "hand to mouth," because under
+its influence a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth, instead of
+seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose. And a man who
+says that the English inequality in land is due only to economic causes,
+or that the drunkenness of England is due only to economic causes, is
+saying something so absurd that he cannot really have thought what he
+was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under the
+influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the economic
+theory of history. We have people who represent that all great historic
+motives were economic, and then have to howl at the top of their voices
+in order to induce the modern democracy to act on economic motives. The
+extreme Marxian politicians in England exhibit themselves as a small,
+heroic minority, trying vainly to induce the world to do what, according
+to their theory, the world always does. The truth is, of course, that
+there will be a social revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be
+purely economic. You can never have a revolution in order to establish a
+democracy. You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+.....
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight rain have
+ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars in a clear sunlight.
+The tossing of the trees and the blowing of the wind have ceased
+simultaneously. So I suppose there are still modern philosophers who
+will maintain that the trees make the wind.
+
+
+
+
+XIII. The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw
+hat; with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers, but
+with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes. He was gazing with a
+rather gloomy interest at the cluster, one might almost say the tangle,
+of small shipping which grew thicker as our little pleasure boat crawled
+up into Yarmouth Harbour. A boat entering this harbour, as every one
+knows, does not enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps
+round at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear. The
+passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic, and in
+consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed under a timber
+ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens like a cathedral,
+the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden figurehead carved like a
+woman, and said, like one continuing a conversation, "Now, why have they
+left off having them. They didn't do any one any harm?"
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note. There has
+been something in our most recent civilisation which is mysteriously
+hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+"They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty," he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. "I believe they broke up all the jolly old
+figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it."
+
+"Like Mr. Quilp," I answered, "when he battered the wooden Admiral with
+the poker."
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time he stood
+erect and stared at me.
+
+"Do you come to Yarmouth for that?" he asked.
+
+"For what?"
+
+"For Dickens," he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+"No," I answered; "I come for fun, though that is much the same thing."
+
+"I always come," he answered quietly, "to find Peggotty's boat. It isn't
+here."
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred to the people
+who live there. I myself have never come to the end of the list of
+Batterseas. But there are two to the stranger and tourist; the poor
+part, which is dignified, and the prosperous part, which is savagely
+vulgar. My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost; to the
+latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+"The place is very much spoilt now... trippers, you know," he would say,
+not at all scornfully, but simply sadly. That was the nearest he would
+go to an admission of the monstrous watering place that lay along
+the front, outblazing the sun, and more deafening than the sea. But
+behind--out of earshot of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that
+they seem like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose. There
+are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one of them is
+like plunging into a pool. In these places the man and I paced up and
+down talking about Dickens, or, rather, doing what all true Dickensians
+do, telling each other verbatim long passages which both of us knew
+quite well already. We were really in the atmosphere of the older
+England. Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters like
+Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and bought pipe-stoppers
+carved into figures from Pickwick. The evening was settling down between
+all the buildings with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when
+we went into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+"Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant for the
+angel at the sepulchre."
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+"I daresay," he said. "What is there odd about that?"
+
+After a pause I said, "Do you remember what the angel at the sepulchre
+said?"
+
+"Not particularly," he answered; "but where are you off to in such a
+hurry?"
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the fishermen's
+almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring indignantly where I
+was going.
+
+"I am going," I said, "to put pennies in automatic machines on the
+beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going to have my
+photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer out of its original
+bottle. I will buy some picture postcards. I do want a boat. I am ready
+to listen to a concertina, and but for the defects of my education
+should be ready to play it. I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is,
+if the donkey is willing. I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was
+commanded me by the angel in the stained-glass window."
+
+"I really think," said the Dickensian, "that I had better put you in
+charge of your relations."
+
+"Sir," I answered, "there are certain writers to whom humanity owes
+much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective a
+type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places or certain
+perishing associations. It would not be unnatural to look for the spirit
+of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill, or even for the shade of Thackeray
+in Old Kensington. But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for
+Dickens is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury, but he
+would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy, but it would
+be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it. We will not have all
+his books bound up under the title of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather
+we will have them all bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.'
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make something of it,
+swallow it with a holy cannibalism, and assimilate it with the digestion
+of a giant. We must take these trippers as he would have taken them, and
+tear out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember now what
+the angel said at the sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the living among the dead?
+He is not here; he is risen.'"
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands, which
+were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite desperate
+democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory, flung far
+over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic firelight
+of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure looked at once
+grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell. I heard a little
+girl (who was being throttled by another little girl) say by way of
+self-vindication, "My sister-in-law 'as got four rings aside her weddin'
+ring!"
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+
+
+XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees and the
+secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world moving under
+the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor merely because I
+happened to be writing the article in a wood. Nevertheless, now that I
+return to Fleet Street (which seems to me, I confess, much better and
+more poetical than all the wild woods in the world), I am strangely
+haunted by this accidental comparison. The people's figures seem a
+forest and their soul a wind. All the human personalities which speak or
+signal to me seem to have this fantastic character of the fringe of the
+forest against the sky. That man that talks to me, what is he but an
+articulate tree? That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me
+to tell me to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches
+stirred and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can
+continue to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering my
+person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that blast
+of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy? Gradually this
+impression of the woods wears off. But this black-and-white contrast
+between the visible and invisible, this deep sense that the one
+essential belief is belief in the invisible as against the visible,
+is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind. Exactly at
+the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is, most
+bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet, on
+which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?"
+
+.....
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well have turned upside
+down. The men in Fleet Street might have been walking about on their
+hands. The cross of St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside
+down. For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe that the
+waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say, they believe
+that the material circumstances, however black and twisted, are more
+important than the spiritual realities, however powerful and pure.
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?" I am puzzled to think what some periods
+and schools of human history would have made of such a question. The
+ascetics of the East or of some periods of the early Church would have
+thought that the question meant, "Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?" But
+I suppose that is not what the purple poster means. In some pagan cities
+it might have meant, "Shall slaves so vile as shop assistants even be
+allowed to propagate their abject race?" But I suppose that is not what
+the purple poster meant. We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what
+it does mean. It does really mean that a section of the human race
+is asking whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are
+particularly good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether
+Adam and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove. If this
+is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be. We ask whether
+the universal institution will improve our (please God) temporary
+institution. Yet I have known many such questions. For instance, I have
+known a man ask seriously, "Does Democracy help the Empire?" Which is
+like saying, "Is art favourable to frescoes?"
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked. But if the world
+ever runs short of them, I can suggest a large number of questions of
+precisely the same kind, based on precisely the same principle.
+
+"Do Feet Improve Boots?"--"Is Bread Better when Eaten?"--"Should
+Hats have Heads in them?"--"Do People Spoil a Town?"--"Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?"--"Should Neckties enclose Necks?"--"Do Hands Hurt
+Walking-sticks?"--"Does Burning Destroy Firewood?"--"Is Cleanliness Good
+for Soap?"--"Can Cricket Really Improve Cricket-bats?"--"Shall We Take
+Brides with our Wedding Rings?" and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport or in
+intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from the
+purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by half of the
+earnest economists of our times. All the questions they ask are of this
+character; they are all tinged with this same initial absurdity. They do
+not ask if the means is suited to the end; they all ask (with profound
+and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited to the means. They do
+not ask whether the tail suits the dog. They all ask whether a dog is
+(by the highest artistic canons) the most ornamental appendage that can
+be put at the end of a tail. In short, instead of asking whether our
+modern arrangements, our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete
+institutions are suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy
+human life, they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments; and then they
+only ask whether that healthy human life is suited to our streets and
+trades. Perfection may be attainable or unattainable as an end. It may
+or may not be possible to talk of imperfection as a means to perfection.
+But surely it passes toleration to talk of perfection as a means to
+imperfection. The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream. But
+surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem is a reality
+on the road to Birmingham.
+
+.....
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret of the
+modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought to be simple
+enough. A really human human being would always put the spiritual
+things first. A walking and speaking statue of God finds himself at
+one particular moment employed as a shop assistant. He has in himself
+a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity, a thirst for some
+loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary course of things he
+asks himself, "How far do the existing conditions of those assisting in
+shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny in the matter of love and
+marriage?" But here, as I have said, comes in the quiet and crushing
+power of modern materialism. It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he
+would otherwise do. By perpetually talking about environment and visible
+things, by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron machinery
+and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of towers of stone, modern
+materialism at last produces this tremendous impression in which the
+truth is stated upside down. At last the result is achieved. The man
+does not say as he ought to have said, "Should married men endure being
+modern shop assistants?" The man says, "Should shop assistants marry?"
+Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism. The
+slave does not say, "Are these chains worthy of me?" The slave says
+scientifically and contentedly, "Am I even worthy of these chains?"
+
+
+
+
+XV. What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have made
+the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat, with an astracan
+moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache. Whether he put on the
+moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic will enabled him not
+only to grow a moustache in the usual place, but also to grow little
+moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know. I only remember that he
+said to me the following words: "A man can't get on nowadays by hanging
+about with his hands in his pockets." I made reply with the quite
+obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got on by having his hands in other
+people's pockets; whereupon he began to argue about Moral Evolution, so
+I suppose what I said had some truth in it. But the incident now comes
+back to me, and connects itself with another incident--if you can call
+it an incident--which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I had
+at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief; I
+had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets are still
+there; the same presumption applies to the things that I have dropped
+into the sea. But I regard the riches stored in both these bottomless
+chasms with the same reverent ignorance. They tell us that on the
+last day the sea will give up its dead; and I suppose that on the same
+occasion long strings of extraordinary things will come running out of
+my pockets. But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all surprised
+at finding among them.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence. I here only wish
+briefly to recall the special, extraordinary, and hitherto unprecedented
+circumstances which led me in cold blood, and being of sound mind, to
+turn out my pockets. I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a
+rather long journey. The time was towards evening, but it might have
+been anything, for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting sheet of
+quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers. I had not even a
+pencil and a scrap of paper with which to write a religious epic. There
+were no advertisements on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could
+have plunged into the study, for any collection of printed words is
+quite enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity. When
+I find myself opposite the words "Sunlight Soap" I can exhaust all the
+aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer poetry before I go on to the
+less congenial subject of soap. But there was no printed word or picture
+anywhere; there was nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank
+wet without. Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can be,
+uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats, and
+began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood. Just as I had
+begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ was a carpenter,
+rather than a bricklayer, or a baker, or anything else, I suddenly
+started upright, and remembered my pockets. I was carrying about with
+me an unknown treasury. I had a British Museum and a South Kensington
+collection of unknown curios hung all over me in different places. I
+began to take the things out.
+
+.....
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of Battersea
+tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase. They shook
+down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course, they touched my
+patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes; also they provided me
+with the printed matter I required, for I found on the back of them some
+short but striking little scientific essays about some kind of pill.
+Comparatively speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might
+be regarded as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my
+railway journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a
+few months longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the
+controversial aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro
+and con upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the cross
+of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper meant all
+that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the greatest hope of
+England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife, I
+need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral meditations
+all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most primary of those
+practical origins upon which as upon low, thick pillows all our human
+civilisation reposes. Metals, the mystery of the thing called iron and
+of the thing called steel, led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream.
+I saw into the intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among
+all the common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth. I saw all the
+swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war. For the knife is
+only a short sword; and the pocket-knife is a secret sword. I opened it
+and looked at that brilliant and terrible tongue which we call a blade;
+and I thought that perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs
+of man. The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing that came
+next out of my pocket was a box of matches. Then I saw fire, which is
+stronger even than steel, the old, fierce female thing, the thing we all
+love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw in it all the art
+and all the frescoes of the world. The next was a coin of a very modest
+value; and I saw in it not only the image and superscription of our own
+Caesar, but all government and order since the world began. But I have
+not space to say what were the items in the long and splendid procession
+of poetical symbols that came pouring out. I cannot tell you all the
+things that were in my pocket. I can tell you one thing, however, that I
+could not find in my pocket. I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+
+
+XVI. The Dragon's Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales. I do not
+mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated in them--that he
+did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into a coach. He did, indeed,
+entertain this curious disbelief. And, like all the other people I
+have ever met who entertained it, he was wholly unable to give me an
+intelligent reason for it. He tried the laws of nature, but he soon
+dropped that. Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary
+experience, and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted
+pumpkinity. But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply the attitude we
+adopt towards all unusual occurrences. If we were certain of miracles
+we should not count on them. Things that happen very seldom we all leave
+out of our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not. I do not
+expect a glass of water to be turned into wine; but neither do I expect
+a glass of water to be poisoned with prussic acid. I do not in ordinary
+business relations act on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but
+neither do I act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is not that the
+natural order is unalterable, but simply that it is much safer to bet
+on uncommon incidents than on common ones. This does not touch the
+credibility of any attested tale about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned
+into a coach. If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined to assume
+that the same thing would happen again. I should not invest largely in
+pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade. Cinderella got a ball dress
+from the fairy; but I do not suppose that she looked after her own
+clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened, though crazy,
+is common. The man I speak of disbelieved in fairy tales in an even more
+amazing and perverted sense. He actually thought that fairy tales
+ought not to be told to children. That is (like a belief in slavery
+or annexation) one of those intellectual errors which lie very near to
+ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which, though they may be
+done what is called conscientiously, yet carry so much of their whole
+horror in the very act of them, that a man must in doing them not only
+harden but slightly corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of
+milk to young mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+.....
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too helpless even
+to find his way to the Church of England. He had a curious green necktie
+and a very long neck; I am always meeting idealists with very long
+necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal aspiration slowly lifts their
+heads nearer and nearer to the stars. Or perhaps it has something to
+do with the fact that so many of them are vegetarians: perhaps they are
+slowly evolving the neck of the giraffe so that they can eat all the
+tops of the trees in Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense
+above me. Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy
+tales; and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had begun
+to read "Grimm's Fairy tales" as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was "Suburban Sue: A Tale of
+Psychology," and also "Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia"; there was
+"Trixy: A Temperament," and "Man-Hate: A Monochrome," and all those nice
+things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough, I grew
+tired of them at last, and when I saw "Grimm's Fairy Tales" lying
+accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy. Here at least,
+here at last, one could find a little common sense. I opened the book,
+and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying words, "The Dragon's
+Grandmother." That at least was reasonable; that at least was true. "The
+Dragon's Grandmother!" While I was rolling this first touch of ordinary
+human reality upon my tongue, I looked up suddenly and saw this monster
+with a green tie standing in the doorway.
+
+.....
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough, I hope;
+but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe in fairy
+tales, I broke out beyond control. "Man," I said, "who are you that you
+should not believe in fairy tales? It is much easier to believe in Blue
+Beard than to believe in you. A blue beard is a misfortune; but there
+are green ties which are sins. It is far easier to believe in a million
+fairy tales than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales. I
+would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all his stories
+as if they were thirty-nine articles than say seriously and out of
+my heart that there can be such a man as you; that you are not some
+temptation of the devil or some delusion from the void. Look at these
+plain, homely, practical words. 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all
+right; that is rational almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was
+a dragon, he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother! If you
+had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales. You had no
+father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you. You cannot
+be. I believe many things which I have not seen; but of such things
+as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he that has seen and yet has
+disbelieved.'"
+
+.....
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy, so I
+moderated my tone. "Can you not see," I said, "that fairy tales in their
+essence are quite solid and straightforward; but that this everlasting
+fiction about modern life is in its nature essentially incredible?
+Folk-lore means that the soul is sane, but that the universe is wild
+and full of marvels. Realism means that the world is dull and full of
+routine, but that the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the
+fairy tale is--what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The
+problem of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins, and
+suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos. In the
+excellent tale of 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other tales of
+Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his travels
+will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave, full
+of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents, keep his word,
+rescue one kind of people, defy another kind, 'parcere subjectis et
+debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed this centre of sanity, the writer
+entertains himself by fancying what would happen if the whole world went
+mad all round it, if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses
+had six legs and giants had two heads. But your modern literature
+takes insanity as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of
+insanity. A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite
+serious; that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is a
+piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass. A man who
+thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken. It is only
+sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity. Therefore, these
+wise old tales made the hero ordinary and the tale extraordinary.
+But you have made the hero extraordinary and the tale ordinary--so
+ordinary--oh, so very ordinary."
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me under the
+hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, "In the name of God
+and Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother--in the name of all good
+things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more." Whether
+or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt that he
+definitely went away.
+
+
+
+
+XVII. The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him I can
+never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest letter
+saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even if
+they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy tales,
+because it frightens them. You might just as well say that it is cruel
+to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry. All this
+kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting of what a child is
+like which has been the firm foundation of so many educational schemes.
+If you keep bogies and goblins away from children they would make them
+up for themselves. One small child in the dark can invent more hells
+than Swedenborg. One small child can imagine monsters too big and
+black to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly and
+cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic. The child, to
+begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he continues to indulge in them
+even when he does not like them. There is just as much difficulty in
+saying exactly where pure pain begins in his case, as there is in ours
+when we walk of our own free will into the torture-chamber of a great
+tragedy. The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+.....
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable; they are
+alarmed at this world, because this world is a very alarming place. They
+dislike being alone because it is verily and indeed an awful idea to be
+alone. Barbarians fear the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics
+worship it--because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear; fairy
+tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly; that is
+in the child already, because it is in the world already. Fairy tales
+do not give the child his first idea of bogey. What fairy tales give the
+child is his first clear idea of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby
+has known the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination. What
+the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him for a series
+of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless terrors had a limit,
+that these shapeless enemies have enemies in the knights of God, that
+there is something in the universe more mystical than darkness, and
+stronger than strong fear. When I was a child I have stared at the
+darkness until the whole black bulk of it turned into one negro giant
+taller than heaven. If there was one star in the sky it only made him a
+Cyclops. But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite equal
+dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself (of similar
+inexperience and even lower social status) by means of a sword, some
+bad riddles, and a brave heart. Sometimes the sea at night seemed as
+dreadful as any dragon. But then I was acquainted with many youngest
+sons and little sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the
+sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery, the
+excellent tale of the "Boy who Could not Shudder," and you will see what
+I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale. I remember specially
+a man's legs which fell down the chimney by themselves and walked about
+the room, until they were rejoined by the severed head and body which
+fell down the chimney after them. That is very good. But the point
+of the story and the point of the reader's feelings is not that these
+things are frightening, but the far more striking fact that the hero was
+not frightened at them. The most fearful of all these fearful wonders
+was his own absence of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked
+the devils to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled
+with some modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his
+spirit. If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it; it is
+the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught to shudder
+by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him. In that one
+sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage than in all the
+books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+.....
+
+At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd
+and St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone. For
+the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in the
+universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted; but
+the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied. As I told "H.
+N. B." (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its most superstitious
+sense), the one thing modern people really do believe in is damnation.
+The greatest of purely modern poets summed up the really modern attitude
+in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+"There may be Heaven; there must be Hell."
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition; and the
+new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin by being
+gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits. Now they are
+beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+.....
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they should
+make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion. For almost all
+the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new, is solemn and sad.
+Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian saints were a little
+too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism are both lawless and
+serious--a disgusting combination. The specially contemporary spirits
+are not only devils, they are blue devils. This is, first and last, the
+real value of Christmas; in so far as the mythology remains at all it
+is a kind of happy mythology. Personally, of course, I believe in Santa
+Claus; but it is the season of forgiveness, and I will forgive others
+for not doing so. But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the
+defect in our world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for
+instance, to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called "The Turn of the
+Screw." It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is
+one of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to
+have been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of the
+foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether Mr.
+Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent, do not
+buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question so doubtful
+that I will give that truly great man a chance. I will approve the thing
+as well as admire it if he will write another tale just as powerful
+about two children and Santa Claus. If he will not, or cannot, then the
+conclusion is clear; we can deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not
+with happy mystery; we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+.....
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil. That is
+exactly what I mean.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII. The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought (though
+not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies of
+architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve the one
+startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts. But this sort of
+sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy and energy
+of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most prosaic
+landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings. Here
+Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable. Here the fields
+are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand, the streets and
+roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind. The waters of wood
+and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly as if they were in the London
+water-pipes. But the parish pump is carved with all the creatures out of
+the wilderness. Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of
+wild animals, but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music
+that are more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast
+at night. And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their
+strength, seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the
+primal mire, and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a
+startled bird.
+
+.....
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit in
+humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only man
+who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man is ever
+undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who are wild.
+And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to all human art,
+it is also generally characteristic of Christian art among the arts
+of the world. This is what people really mean when they say that
+Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance. As a matter of
+historic fact, it didn't; it arose in the most equably civilised period
+the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks the outline
+of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots with anger the
+blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry charge the horses
+of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage, in the sense that it is
+primeval; there is in it a touch of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate
+in which I had praised militant music in ritual, and some one asked me
+if I could imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ definitely
+approved a natural noisiness at a great moment. When the street children
+shouted too loud, certain priggish disciples did begin to rebuke them in
+the name of good taste. He said: "If these were silent the very stones
+would cry out." With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words He
+founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this, which seems to
+have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves, anywhere and anyhow, any odd
+brick or moulding may be carved off into a shouting face. The front of
+vast buildings is thronged with open mouths, angels praising God, or
+devils defying Him. Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to
+scream. The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable in
+the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant things
+in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All Christian
+temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges Belfry is a
+gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like a giraffe. The
+same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind at every corner of
+a Flemish town. And if any one asks, "Why did the people of these flat
+countries instinctively raise these riotous and towering monuments?" the
+only answer one can give is, "Because they were the people of these
+flat countries." If any one asks, "Why the men of Bruges sacrificed
+architecture and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?"
+we can only answer, "Because Nature gave them no encouragement to do
+so."
+
+.....
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some of my
+friends in London who are quite sure of how children will turn out
+if you give them what they call "the right environment." It is a
+troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works positively
+and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two. A beautiful
+environment may make a child love beauty; it may make him bored with
+beauty; most likely the two effects will mix and neutralise each other.
+Most likely, that is, the environment will make hardly any difference at
+all. In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries that had
+owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country is
+hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold; Englishmen
+naval because they are islanders; Switzers free because they are
+mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way. Only unfortunately I am
+quite certain that I could make up quite as long a list exactly contrary
+in its argument point-blank against the influence of their geographical
+environment. Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than
+Scandinavians because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as bravely as Switzers
+because the Dutch have no mountains. Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many
+Mediterranean peoples have specially hated the sea because they had the
+nicest sea to deal with, the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the
+list for ever. But however long it was, two examples would certainly
+stand up in it as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the
+Swiss, who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far the most
+mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe. The other is that
+the people of Belgium, who live in a country like a carpet, have, by an
+inner energy, desired to exalt their towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment, I cannot
+comfort myself with the thought that the modern discussions about
+environment are of much practical value. But I think I will not write
+any more about these modern theories, but go on looking at the Belfry
+of Bruges. I would give them the greater attention if I were not pretty
+well convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+
+
+XIX. How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making a bright
+suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not, I regret to
+say, received with the seriousness it deserved. I suggested that a band
+of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves, should express our
+sense of the pathos of the President's and the Republic's fate by
+growing Kruger beards under our chins. I imagined how abruptly this
+decoration would alter the appearance of Mr. John Morley; how startling
+it would be as it emerged from under the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But
+the younger men, my own friends, on whom I more particularly urged
+it, men whose names are in many cases familiar to the readers of this
+paper--Mr. Masterman's for instance, and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt,
+being young and beautiful, would do even more justice to the Kruger
+beard, and when walking down the street with it could not fail to
+attract attention. The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to
+the Rhodes hat. An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in
+Africa is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat; the
+Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing like a beard;
+we have shaved it, and it is growing again. The Kruger beard would
+represent time and the natural processes. You cannot grow a beard in a
+moment of passion.
+
+.....
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town. I went
+down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards an
+election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for the Liberal
+candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in. I sometimes lie
+awake at night and meditate upon that mystery; but it must not detain us
+now. The rather singular incident which happened to me then, and which
+some recent events have recalled to me, happened while the canvassing
+was still going on. It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine,
+settling everywhere on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out
+into a kind of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if the bushes
+and the roads were human, and had kindness like men; as if the tree were
+a good giant with one wooden leg; as if the very line of palings were a
+row of good-tempered gnomes. On one side of the white, sprawling road a
+low hill or down showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the
+other the land tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip
+hills. The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful and
+beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon a low white
+building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows, evidently not
+inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--a thing more
+like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind. Made idle by the heat,
+I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk out of my pocket, began
+drawing aimlessly on the back door--drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain,
+and finally the ideal Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials
+did not permit of any delicate rendering of his noble and national
+expansion of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for
+man, and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy, I was
+frozen to the spot with terror. The black door, which I thought no more
+of than the lid of an empty box, began slowly to open, impelled from
+within by a human hand. And President Kruger himself came out into the
+sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled the
+Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes, there was
+the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger beard which
+I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under the features
+of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I was too much
+emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone lions with him, or
+Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark shed I cannot imagine,
+but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger in
+Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in the
+neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me. Mr. Kruger
+regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye, and then addressed
+me with a strong Somersetshire accent. A curious cold shock went through
+me to hear that inappropriate voice coming out of that familiar form.
+It was as if you met a Chinaman, with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he
+began to talk broad Scotch. But the next moment, of course, I understood
+the situation. We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the
+Boer education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot against
+our island home, the terrible President had learnt not only English, but
+all the dialects at a moment's notice to win over a Lancashire merchant
+or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier. No doubt, if I asked him, this
+stout old gentleman could grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk,
+and so on, like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if
+our plain, true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so
+penetrated with culture as this.
+
+.....
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all that this
+strange old man gave me. When he asked me, dryly enough, but not without
+a certain steady civility that belongs to old-fashioned country people,
+what I wanted and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities of the
+Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became suddenly transfigured
+in the sunlight into a devil of wrath. It was some time before I could
+understand a word he said, but the one word that kept on recurring was
+the word "Kruger," and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of
+violent terms. Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want
+him to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was... and here he
+became once more obscure. The one thing that he made quite clear was
+that he wouldn't do anything for Kruger.
+
+"But you ARE Kruger," burst from my lips, in a natural explosion of
+reasonableness. "You ARE Kruger, aren't you?"
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first there would
+be a fight, and I remembered with regret that the President in early
+life had had a hobby of killing lions. But really I began to think that
+I had been mistaken, and that it was not the President after all. There
+was a confounding sincerity in the anger with which he declared that he
+was Farmer Bowles, and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually
+and parted from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me
+with a few tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of
+his identity. In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an
+illustrated paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer
+Bowles were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group of
+Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant, were
+perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed to me like
+the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll, when he
+drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze with the blue Tory
+ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his colours everywhere. It
+was evening, and the warm western light was on the grey hair and heavy
+massive features of that good old man. I knew as one knows a fact of
+sense that if Spanish and German stockbrokers had flooded his farm
+or country he would have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an
+Irishman, but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the
+Boer. I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his cross
+against the Conservative name. Then he came out again, having given his
+vote and looking more like Kruger than ever. And at the same hour on
+the same night thousands upon thousands of English Krugers gave the
+same vote. And thus Kruger was pulled down and the dark-faced men in the
+photograph reigned in his stead.
+
+
+
+
+XX. The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is
+great. All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks. At
+least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work by night
+(journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers, and such
+mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning) must often have
+stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown of battlements
+or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at daybreak to discover
+that it was only a haberdasher's shop with huge gold letters across the
+face of it.
+
+.....
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight. I sat down
+on a bench with my back to the river, happening to choose such a place
+that a huge angle and faade of building jutting out from the Strand
+sat above me like an incubus. I dare say that if I took the same seat
+to-morrow by daylight I should find the impression entirely false. In
+sunlight the thing might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness
+it seemed as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have
+I had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth. That
+pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above and
+beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb. I had an
+irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I had to fight
+it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion but an indolent
+journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black, blind
+face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge face of a sleeping
+giant; the eyes were too close together, and gave it the suggestion of a
+bestial sneer. And either by accident of this light or of some other, I
+could now read the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything that I
+should like to pull down with my hands if I could. Reared by a detected
+robber, it is framed to be the fashionable and luxurious home of
+undetected robbers. In the house of man are many mansions; but there is
+a class of men who feel normal nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or
+in Dartmoor Gaol. That big black face, which was staring at me with its
+flaming eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer; the hour had
+come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again (I had had one wild
+impulse to climb up the front of the hotel and fall in at one of the
+windows), and I tried to think, as all decent people are thinking, what
+one can really do. And all the time that oppressive wall went up in
+front of me, and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+.....
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been the defeated
+who have won. The people who were left worst at the end of the war
+were generally the people who were left best at the end of the whole
+business. For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the
+Christians. But they did not end in the decline of the Christians; they
+ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave of Moslem
+power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns of Christendom,
+that wave was broken, and never came on again. The Crusaders had saved
+Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem. The same applies to that epic of
+Republican war in the eighteenth century to which we Liberals owe our
+political creed. The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came
+back across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had lost its
+last battle; but it had gained its first object. It had cut a chasm.
+The world has never been the same since. No one after that has ever been
+able to treat the poor merely as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere stones of the
+street; but as stones that may sometimes fly. If it please God, you and
+I may see some of the stones flying again before we see death. But here
+I only remark the interesting fact that the conquered almost always
+conquer. Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds. The
+Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment; it
+deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock and jar the
+unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil; just as a pebble on
+a railway can stagger the Scotch express. It is enough for the great
+martyrs and criminals of the French revolution, that they have surprised
+for all time the secret weakness of the strong. They have awakened and
+set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever the coward in the hearts
+of kings.
+
+.....
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his experience was
+not such as has been generally supposed. If you care to hear it I will
+tell you the real story of Jack the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the
+most awful thing which Jack first felt about the giant was that he was
+not a giant. He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and
+against its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a
+figure in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man was
+treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain. The man
+came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger, and at the instant
+when he passed the possible stature of humanity Jack almost screamed.
+The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle; the more he became
+incredible the more he became solid. The less one could believe in him
+the more plainly one could see him. It was unbearable that so much of
+the sky should be occupied by one human face. His eyes, which had stood
+out like bow windows, became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that
+could contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes. Jack's
+intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism of the face that
+filled the sky; his last hope was submerged, his five wits all still
+with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of
+dead honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his
+hand. He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and
+when he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a
+cave. Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant
+on it with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the
+hilt, and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant
+felt a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great
+hand for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and
+stared at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw him
+away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were flying from
+system to system through the universe of stars. But, as the giant had
+thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike a stone, but struck soft
+mire by the side of a distant river. There he lay insensible for several
+hours; but when he awoke again his horrible conqueror was still in
+sight. He was striding away across the void and wooded plain towards
+where it ended in the sea; and by this time he was only much higher than
+any of the hills. He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really
+high mountain grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway
+train. Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic. Then
+the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big blue sea, and
+even as it did so it altered its attitude. Jack, stunned and bleeding,
+lifted himself laboriously upon one elbow to stare. The giant once more
+caught hold of his ankle, wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over
+into the great sea which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all
+things God has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+
+
+XXI. A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has always
+seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing away the veils
+from private life; but it seems to me to be always dropping diaphanous
+but blinding veils between men and men. The Yellow Press is abused for
+exposing facts which are private; I wish the Yellow Press did anything
+so valuable. It is exactly the decisive individual touches that it never
+gives; and a proof of this is that after one has met a man a million
+times in the newspapers it is always a complete shock and reversal to
+meet him in real life. The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of
+catching the first fresh fact about a man that dominates all after
+impressions. For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that
+he spoke with a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of
+sentiment; but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other criticisms
+put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out private
+personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities on the
+surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression of this kind
+which we have all felt when we met great poets or politicians, but which
+never finds its way into the newspapers. I mean the impression that
+they are much older than we thought they were. We connect great men with
+their great triumphs, which generally happened some years ago, and many
+recruits enthusiastic for the thin Napoleon of Marengo must have found
+themselves in the presence of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising
+politician confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of
+boyhood. It described how his "brave young voice" rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose: all
+this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once met
+a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+.....
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening. It
+was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set an instant
+after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened and the road
+sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents; I felt that the
+treetops that closed above me were the fixed and real things, certain as
+the level of the sea; but that the solid earth was every instant failing
+under my feet. In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in
+splashes, like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky. Around
+me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every plain or
+twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns of every earthly
+and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature of the
+forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force. For the meaning of
+woods is the combination of energy with complexity. A forest is not
+in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense with delicacy. Unique
+shapes that an artist would copy or a philosopher watch for years if he
+found them in an open plain are here mingled and confounded; but it is
+not a darkness of deformity. It is a darkness of life; a darkness of
+perfection. And I began to think how much of the highest human obscurity
+is like this, and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell
+you, for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate; it
+is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+.....
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out into
+deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the evening was
+so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a sunset all to
+itself. I went along that road according to directions that had been
+given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling beyond which the
+wood changed only faintly to a garden. It was as if the curious courtesy
+and fineness of that character I was to meet went out from him upon the
+valley; for I felt on all these things the finger of that quality which
+the old English called "farie"; it is the quality which those can never
+understand who think of the past as merely brutal; it is an ancient
+elegance such as there is in trees. I went through the garden and saw
+an old man sitting by a table, looking smallish in his big chair. He
+was already an invalid, and his hair and beard were both white; not like
+snow, for snow is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even
+fierce; rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand, and
+I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young. He was the one
+great man of the old world whom I have met who was not a mere statue
+over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about the
+books he had written; he was far too much alive for that. He talked
+about the books he had not written. He unrolled a purple bundle of
+romances which he had never had time to sell. He asked me to write one
+of the stories for him, as he would have asked the milkman, if he had
+been talking to the milkman. It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort
+of astronomical farce. It was all about a man who was rushing up to the
+Royal Society with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying
+comet; and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities; how he lost
+a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling. That is only one
+of them; there were ten or twenty more. Another, I dimly remember, was
+a version of the fall of Parnell; the idea that a quite honest man might
+be secret from a pure love of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went
+out of that garden with a blurred sensation of the million possibilities
+of creative literature. The feeling increased as my way fell back into
+the wood; for a wood is a palace with a million corridors that cross
+each other everywhere. I really had the feeling that I had seen the
+creative quality; which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls
+the Old Man of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind
+my path; I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+
+
+XXII. The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert that the love
+of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them; and so, perhaps, it
+would, if they had it. There is a very real thing which may be called
+the love of humanity; in our time it exists almost entirely among what
+are called uneducated people; and it does not exist at all among the
+people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being is
+chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday; that is
+why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances) than any other
+part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty train
+at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them; they all
+got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the train entirely
+empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is the definite pleasure
+in the immediate proximity of one's own kind. Only this coarse, rank,
+real love of men seems to be entirely lacking in those who propose
+the love of humanity as a substitute for all other love; honourable,
+rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked the sudden
+starting of that train; all the factory girls who could not find seats
+(and they must have been the majority) relieving their feelings by
+jumping up and down. Now I have never seen any rationalistic idealists
+do this. I have never seen twenty modern philosophers crowd into one
+third-class carriage for the mere pleasure of being together. I have
+never seen twenty Mr. McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and
+down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun all
+beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches. But their fear
+is unreasonable; because trippers always prefer to trip together;
+they pack as close as they can; they have a suffocating passion of
+philanthropy.
+
+.....
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle, I have no
+hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber. Before any
+modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist (I insist
+with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased when his barber
+tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity: let him love that. If he
+is not pleased at this, I will not accept any substitute in the way of
+interest in the Congo or the future of Japan. If a man cannot love his
+barber whom he has seen, how shall he love the Japanese whom he has not
+seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about the
+weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest. It
+is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him; he is blamed
+because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist, and because,
+being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave. But the only proof of
+such things is by example; therefore I will prove the excellence of the
+conversation of barbers by a specific case. Lest any one should accuse
+me of attempting to prove it by fictitious means, I beg to say quite
+seriously that though I forget the exact language employed, the
+following conversation between me and a human (I trust), living barber
+really took place a few days ago.
+
+.....
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers, and
+lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out
+of the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get
+shaved. While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+"There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir. It
+seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone or a
+pole or a poker" (here I began for the first time to detect a sarcastic
+intonation) "or a shovel or a----"
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about the
+matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+"Or a button-hook," I said, "or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram or a
+piston-rod----"
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, "Or a curtain rod or a
+candle-stick, or a----"
+
+"Cow-catcher," I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic
+duet for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told
+me. He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+"The funny part of it is," he said, "that the thing isn't new at all.
+It's been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before. There is
+always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow. But none
+of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe myself that
+this will."
+
+"Why, as to that," I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying to
+put on my coat inside out, "I don't know how it may be in the case of
+you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you, is a trivial
+and materialistic thing, and in such things startling inventions are
+sometimes made. But what you say reminds me in some dark and dreamy
+fashion of something else. I recall it especially when you tell me,
+with such evident experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not
+really new. My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of
+making everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts
+off one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil of
+preparing a man's chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil of
+preparing something very curious to put on a man's chin. It would be
+nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody. It would be nicer
+still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ "'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+
+"Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+"In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written that a man
+shall not eat his cake and have it; and though all men talked until the
+stars were old it would still be true that a man who has lost his razor
+could not shave with it. But every now and then men jump up with the new
+something or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there is no real
+difference between being shaved and not being shaved. The difference,
+they say, is only a difference of degree; everything is evolutionary
+and relative. Shavedness is immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is
+a Potential Razor. The superstitious people of the past (they say)
+believed that a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to
+one's face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches us
+better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow where Shaving
+should be.
+
+"Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something. But a
+baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby he will know
+whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing up being shaved and
+being saved; my democratic sympathies have always led me to drop my
+'h's.' In another moment I may suggest that goats represent the
+lost because goats have long beards. This is growing altogether too
+allegorical.
+
+"Nevertheless," I added, as I paid the bill, "I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving. Have
+you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?"
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII. The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys takes so
+very much more time and trouble than anything else. Playing as children
+mean playing is the most serious thing in the world; and as soon as we
+have small duties or small sorrows we have to abandon to some extent
+so enormous and ambitious a plan of life. We have enough strength
+for politics and commerce and art and philosophy; we have not enough
+strength for play. This is a truth which every one will recognize who,
+as a child, has ever played with anything at all; any one who has played
+with bricks, any one who has played with dolls, any one who has played
+with tin soldiers. My journalistic work, which earns money, is not
+pursued with such awful persistency as that work which earned nothing.
+
+.....
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow in twelve
+volumes (it would be just like you) on "The Theory and Practice
+of European Architecture," your work may be laborious, but it is
+fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work of a child piling
+one brick on the other is serious; for the simple reason that if your
+book is a bad book no one will ever be able ultimately and entirely to
+prove to you that it is a bad book. Whereas if his balance of bricks
+is a bad balance of bricks, it will simply tumble down. And if I know
+anything of children, he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it
+up again. Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce
+you to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you could
+help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after a
+child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play as
+idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol has
+actually become more important than the human reality which it was, I
+suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: "I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending to
+be my dolly." Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had been a
+substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute for a
+doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such devotion
+takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if it were
+really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point is that
+the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist; the child
+playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: "This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his
+being short of stores." The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey's activity was due to his being short of stores. Otherwise
+he would have stood quite still while he was chased. I run after Jones
+with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries to get rid of me the
+only possible explanation is that he has a very small balance at his
+bankers. I cannot believe that any boy playing at soldiers would be as
+idiotic as this. But then any one playing at anything has to be serious.
+Whereas, as I have only too good reason to know, if you are writing an
+article you can say anything that comes into your head.
+
+.....
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's games is,
+generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure in them; it is simply
+that they have no leisure for them. It is that they cannot afford the
+expenditure of toil and time and consideration for so grand and grave a
+scheme. I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre that used to be
+called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured; only that I drew and coloured
+the figures and scenes myself. Hence I was free from the degrading
+obligation of having to pay either a penny or twopence; I only had to
+pay a shilling a sheet for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad
+water colours. The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar
+to every one; it is never more than a development of the stage which
+Skelt made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I ever
+worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work seems
+too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself to lighter
+employments; such as the biographies of great men. The play of "St.
+George and the Dragon," over which I have burnt the midnight oil (you
+must colour the thing by lamplight because that is how it will be seen),
+still lacks most conspicuously, alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace,
+and also some comprehensible and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours. But it is
+partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble. If I am
+ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have enough
+time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I shall have
+enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play in them
+without a hitch.
+
+.....
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need to learn
+could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered, it reminds us
+of the main principle of art, the principle which is in most danger
+of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact that art consists of
+limitation; the fact that art is limitation. Art does not consist in
+expanding things. Art consists of cutting things down, as I cut down
+with a pair of scissors my very ugly figures of St. George and the
+Dragon. Plato, who liked definite ideas, would like my cardboard dragon;
+for though the creature has few other artistic merits he is at least
+dragonish. The modern philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome
+to a sheet of the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the
+theatrical art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing
+through a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even
+at the Court Theatre or His Majesty's you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small theatre
+exactly is that you are looking through a small window. Has not every
+one noticed how sweet and startling any landscape looks when seen
+through an arch? This strong, square shape, this shutting off of
+everything else is not only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential
+of beauty. The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing the scale
+of events it can introduce much larger events. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the Day of Judgment. Exactly in so far as it is
+limited, so far it could play easily with falling cities or with falling
+stars. Meanwhile the big theatres are obliged to be economical because
+they are big. When we have understood this fact we shall have understood
+something of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier into
+the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia. In the
+narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room for Purgatory
+and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled by the British Empire.
+Great empires are necessarily prosaic; for it is beyond human power to
+act a great poem upon so great a scale. You can only represent very big
+ideas in very small spaces. My toy theatre is as philosophical as the
+drama of Athens.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been long and pleasant,
+but--perhaps for that very reason--I feel that the time has come when I
+ought to confess the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time
+ago; but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse to reveal
+such dark episodes long after they have occurred. It has nothing to do
+with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League. That body is so offensively
+respectable that a newspaper, in describing it the other day, referred
+to my friend Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is not by the
+conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton, of the Rev. James
+Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that fine and virile old
+ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish (or rather, am driven by
+my conscience) to make this declaration. The crime was committed in
+solitude and without accomplices. Alone I did it. Let me, with the
+characteristic thirst of penitents to get the worst of the confession
+over, state it first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he has died
+of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper to whom I still
+owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant knowing that I owed
+him twopence. I carried it away under his nose, despite the fact that
+the nose was a decidedly Jewish one. I have never paid him, and it is
+highly improbable that I ever shall. How did this villainy come to occur
+in a life which has been, generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity
+necessary for fraud? The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though
+there may not be room for that.
+
+.....
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that the
+easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy. The
+most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities. The
+reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint. How, for
+instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would be called a
+"scuttle"? If he has ever seen the word scuttle it has been in the
+Jingo Press, where the "policy of scuttle" is used whenever we give
+up something to a small Power like Liberals, instead of giving up
+everything to a great Power, like Imperialists. What Englishman in
+Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans call a glove a
+"hand-shoe." Nations name their necessities by nicknames, so to
+speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish, and almost
+affectionate names, as if they were their own children! But any one can
+argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has ever got as
+far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can put a
+sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract or
+philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations. They are
+the same, for the simple reason that they all come from the things that
+were the roots of our common civilisation. From Christianity, from
+the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church, or the French Revolution.
+"Nation," "citizen," "religion," "philosophy," "authority," "the
+Republic," words like these are nearly the same in all the countries in
+which we travel. Restrain, therefore, your exuberant admiration for the
+young man who can argue with six French atheists when he first lands at
+Dieppe. Even I can do that. But very likely the same young man does not
+know the French for a shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there
+are three great exceptions. (1) In the case of countries that are not
+European at all, and have never had our civic conceptions, or the old
+Latin scholarship. I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for
+"citizenship" at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for "the
+Republic" has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of
+Germany, where, although the principle does apply to many words such
+as "nation" and "philosophy," it does not apply so generally, because
+Germany has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the
+purely German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not
+know any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed my
+crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned were
+combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German. I
+knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which hold
+our European civilisation together--one of which is "cigar." As it was a
+hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort of beer-garden, and
+ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the lager, and paid for
+it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it, and walked away, gazing
+rapturously at the royal outline of the Taunus mountains. After about
+ten minutes, I suddenly remembered that I had not paid for the cigar. I
+went back to the place of refreshment, and put down the money. But the
+proprietor also had forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural
+things in a tone of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said
+"cigar," and he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the
+money to wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that
+my rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular
+cigar, and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture that my
+rejection was a rejection of cigars in general, not of that particular
+article. He mistook this for the ordinary impatience of common men, and
+rushed forward, his hands filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing
+them upon me. In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the
+more cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars were
+brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment. I tried in
+vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact that I had already
+had the cigar. I imitated the action of a citizen smoking, knocking off
+and throwing away a cigar. The watchful proprietor only thought I was
+rehearsing (as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar he
+was going to give me. At last I retired baffled: he would not take the
+money and leave the cigars alone. So that this restaurant-keeper (in
+whose face a love of money shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and
+firmly refused to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and
+I took that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months. I
+hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth very gently to
+that unhappy man.
+
+.....
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud, and the
+moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded upon abstractions. The
+idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed by physical motions at
+all, because it is an abstract idea. And civilisation obviously would be
+nothing without debt. So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific
+sociology (which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation is
+material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves how many of
+the things that make up our Society, the Law, or the Stocks and Shares,
+or the National Debt, you would be able to convey with your face and
+your ten fingers by grinning and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+
+
+XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there lies
+a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue, but of
+eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present writer
+to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws and
+customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day. It is not
+Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some sympathy with the
+Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath, and that for three reasons;
+first, that religion is an intrinsically sympathetic thing; second, that
+I cannot conceive any religion worth calling a religion without a fixed
+and material observance; and third, that the particular observance of
+sitting still and doing no work is one that suits my temperament down to
+the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it does not
+let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him up when it has forced
+him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism does not forbid us to ask a man
+in Battersea to come and talk in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his
+getting there. I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with
+joys, with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style. I can
+understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows. But I cannot
+imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences. Let the good
+Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent, according to his
+feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah cannot see anything
+particularly dignified in his servant being misled by the time-table,
+finding that the old Mecca express is not running, missing his
+connection at Bagdad, or having to wait three hours in a small side
+station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak thread
+of train-service. Now if this had been the authority of real English
+religion, I should have submitted to it at once. If I believed that
+the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram because he was at that
+moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer, I should think all telegrams
+unimportant in comparison. If I could believe that railway porters when
+relieved from their duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of
+worship, I should say that all lectures and everything else ought to
+give way to such a consideration. I should not complain if the national
+faith forbade me to make any appointments of labour or self-expression
+on the Sabbath. But, as it is, it only tells me that I may very probably
+keep the Sabbath by not keeping the appointment.
+
+.....
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there was
+only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could even get
+within several hours or several miles of the time or place. I therefore
+went to the telephone, which is one of my favourite toys, and down which
+I have shouted many valuable, but prematurely arrested, monologues upon
+art and morals. I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered
+that one could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days, to the
+advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument, in fewer
+words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram, I ordered a
+taxi-cab to take me to the railway station. I have not a word to say in
+general either against telephones or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two
+of the purest and most poetic of the creations of modern scientific
+civilisation. Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down. The result
+of this was that when I arrived at King's Cross my only train was gone;
+there was a Sabbath calm in the station, a calm in the eyes of the
+porters, and in my breast, if calm at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my breast on first
+making the discovery; and it was turned to blinding horror when I learnt
+that I could not even send a telegram to the organisers of the meeting.
+To leave my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating; to
+leave them without any intimation was simply low. I reasoned with the
+official. I said: "Do you really mean to say that if my brother were
+dying and my mother in this place, I could not communicate with her?" He
+was a man of literal and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was
+dying. I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle. What would happen
+if England were invaded, or if I alone knew how to turn aside a comet or
+an earthquake. He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible
+spirit, but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element of the
+outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang up ungovernable,
+and I decided that I would not be a cad merely because some of my remote
+ancestors had been Calvinists. I would keep my appointment if I lost all
+my money and all my wits. I went out into the quiet London street, where
+my quiet London cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty
+morning. I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the
+London driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire. And he did.
+
+.....
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful weather, even in a
+motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started, but
+he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate sense of
+adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--if we ever did. I
+was by no means so delicate; I bought a varied selection of pork-pies
+at a little shop that was open (why was that shop open?--it is all a
+mystery), and ate them as we went along. The beginning was sombre and
+irritating. I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a
+baby; with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness in its
+squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable bustle of
+democracy; but the poor parts of North London... well, perhaps I saw
+them wrongly under that ashen morning and on that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke the
+retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring. We
+were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses, when
+the grey showed golden patches and a good light began to glitter on
+everything. The cab went quicker and quicker. The open land whirled
+wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of being battled with
+and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums. Rather the feeling
+increased, because of the great difficulty of space and time. The faster
+went the car, the fiercer and thicker I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me. The
+tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows; the very trees
+seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving it by a hair's
+breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw a beech-tree by the
+white road stand up little and defiant. It grew bigger and bigger with
+blinding rapidity. It charged me like a tilting knight, seemed to hack
+at my head, and pass by. Sometimes when we went round a curve of road,
+the effect was yet more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill
+swung round to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a
+blazing fact; and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant. We
+do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek the nobler sort
+of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+.....
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided, with
+evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw a veil.
+When I came back home I was called to the telephone, and a meek voice
+expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab, and even said
+something about any reasonable payment. "Whom can I pay for my own
+superb experience? What is the usual charge for seeing the clouds
+shattered by the sun? What is the market price of a tree blue on the
+sky-line and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for that
+windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden. Let me pay you
+for..." Here it was, I think, that we were cut off.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI. The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England as Napoleon
+charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive, because away to
+the last grey line of the sea there was only the look of galloping
+squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose. The sea came on like
+cavalry, and when it touched the shore it opened the blazing eyes and
+deafening tongues of the artillery. I saw the worst assault at night on
+a seaside parade where the sea smote on the doors of England with the
+hammers of earthquake, and a white smoke went up into the black heavens.
+There one could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave. But the
+horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness. It lifts its load
+of water laboriously: in that style at once slow and slippery in which
+a Titan might lift a load of rock and then let it slip at last to be
+shattered into shock of dust. In front of me that night the waves were
+not like water: they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose
+first as if it did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to
+attack the stars. For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a
+tower; then it went a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that
+might some day fall. When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew
+up.
+
+.....
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across the land
+one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can lean up against
+like a wall. One expected anything to be blown out of shape at any
+instant; the lamp-post to be snapped like a green stalk, the tree to be
+whirled away like a straw. I myself should certainly have been blown out
+of shape if I had possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked
+along the edge of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea
+and could not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised to find that
+as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled with the ceaseless
+cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino or place of
+entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing against the cosmic
+uproar. I do not know what band it was. Judging from the boisterous
+British Imperialism of most of the airs it played, I should think it was
+a German band. But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came
+quite close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as "Tommy Atkins" and "You Can Depend on Young Australia," and
+many others of which I do not know the words, but I should think they
+would be "John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack," or that fine though
+unwritten poem, "Wait till the Bull Dog gets a bite of you." Now, I
+for one detest Imperialism, but I have a great deal of sympathy with
+Jingoism. And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken and
+innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature that it made, if I
+may so put it, two tunes in my mind. It is so obvious and so jolly to
+be optimistic about England, especially when you are an optimist--and
+an Englishman. But through all that glorious brass came the voice of the
+invasion, the undertone of that awful sea. I did a foolish thing. As I
+could not express my meaning in an article, I tried to express it in
+a poem--a bad one. You can call it what you like. It might be called
+"Doubt," or "Brighton." It might be called "The Patriot," or yet again
+"The German Band." I would call it "The Two Voices," but that title has
+been taken for a grossly inferior poem. This is how it began--
+
+ "They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ "(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)"
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there is an English
+country that the Imperialists have never found. The British Empire
+may annex what it likes, it will never annex England. It has not even
+discovered the island, let alone conquered it. I took up the two tunes
+again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ "I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ "(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)"
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England. It
+is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely and at
+random--
+
+ "I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ "(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)"
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute; and as for
+the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the
+keeping off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at a tree,
+practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of knife-throwing
+by which men murder each other in Stevenson's romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something about
+their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that reminded me,
+I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy. They asked what the
+knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it, what my address was, trade,
+religion, opinions on the Japanese war, name of favourite cat, and so
+on. They also said I was damaging the tree; which was, I am sorry to
+say, not true, because I could not hit it. The peculiar philosophical
+importance, however, of the incident was this. After some half-hour's
+animated conversation, the exhibition of an envelope, an unfinished
+poem, which was read with great care, and, I trust, with some profit,
+and one or two other subtle detective strokes, the elder of the two
+knights became convinced that I really was what I professed to be, that
+I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS (this was the real
+stroke; they were shaken with a terror common to all tyrants), that
+I lived in a particular place as stated, and that I was stopping
+with particular people in Yorkshire, who happened to be wealthy and
+well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary at last
+that he ended up by representing himself as a reader of my work. And
+when that was said, everything was settled. They acquitted me and let me
+pass.
+
+"But," I said, "what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue of that
+Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like knight-errants. You,
+the higher humanitarians, are not deceived by the seeming stillness
+of the green things, a stillness like the stillness of the cataract, a
+headlong and crashing silence. You know that a tree is but a creature
+tied to the ground by one leg. You will not let assassins with their
+Swedish daggers shed the green blood of such a being. But if so, why am
+I not in custody; where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your
+persons, my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have
+just convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank of
+Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether I have
+been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none the less damaged
+even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it was wounded by a
+gentleman connected with the Liberal press. Wounds in the bark do not
+more rapidly close up because they are inflicted by people who are
+stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley. That tree, the ruin of its former
+self, the wreck of what was once a giant of the forest, now splintered
+and laid low by the brute superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy,
+constable, cannot be wiped out even by stopping for several months more
+with some wealthy person. It is incredible that you have no legal claim
+to arrest even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?"
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood, for
+the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came. It is
+very possible, of course, that they were fairies. In that case the
+somewhat illogical character of their view of crime, law, and personal
+responsibility would find a bright and elfish explanation; perhaps if I
+had lingered in the glade till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny
+policemen dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass. But taking the
+bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen, I find myself in
+a certain difficulty. I was certainly accused of something which was
+either an offence or was not. I was let off because I proved I was a
+guest at a big house. The inference seems painfully clear; either it is
+not a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood, or else
+it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man. Suppose a very poor
+person, poorer even than a journalist, a navvy or unskilled labourer,
+tramping in search of work, often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps,
+failing in his rent. Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green
+gaiety of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees and
+could give no description of a dwelling-place except that he had been
+fired out of the last. As I walked home through a cloudy and purple
+twilight I wondered how he would have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical; there
+is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil in the fact
+that people always brag about their vices; it is when they begin to brag
+about their virtues that they become insufferable. But there is this to
+be said, that illogicality in your constitution or your legal methods
+may become very dangerous if there happens to be some great national
+vice or national temptation which many take advantage of the chaos.
+Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours; a temperate
+man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the Chiltern
+Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally to keep down
+some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is. Obviously this kind
+of illogicality does not matter very much, for the simple reason that
+there is no great temptation to take advantage of it. Men retiring from
+Parliament do not have any furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills.
+But if there were a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable
+politicians taking leave of public life would desire to do this (if,
+for instance, there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on
+saying that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day and
+taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality would
+matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence. It is only
+the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry. And
+snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil, that it is
+rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts and houses. But it is
+our great English vice; to be watched more fiercely than small-pox. If a
+man wished to hear the worst and wickedest thing in England summed up in
+casual English words, he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald
+quarrelling. He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working
+man, when he wishes to praise any one, calls him "a gentleman." It never
+occurs to him that he might as well call him "a marquis," or "a privy
+councillor"--that he is simply naming a rank or class, not a phrase
+for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a shameful admiration,
+must, and, I think, does, constantly come in and distort and poison our
+police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest, is
+increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people, without
+this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII. The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his first
+feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town or village;
+when he looks again he sees that this comparative absence of the
+picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain, precipitous frontage
+of the houses standing up hard and flat out of the street like the
+cardboard houses in a pantomime--a hard angularity allied perhaps to
+the harshness of French logic. When he looks a third time he sees quite
+simply that it is all because the houses have no front gardens. The
+vague English spirit loves to have the entrance to its house softened by
+bushes and broken by steps. It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges
+half in the house and half out of it; a green room in a double sense.
+The Frenchman desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting
+places, for the street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+.....
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's front
+garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains. The
+street is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street. It is his
+dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his British Museum, for
+the statues and monuments in French streets are not, as with us, of the
+worst, but of the best, art of the country, and they are often actually
+as historical as the Pyramids. The street again is the Frenchman's
+Parliament, for France has never taken its Chamber of Deputies so
+seriously as we take our House of Commons, and the quibbles of mere
+elected nonentities in an official room seem feeble to a people whose
+fathers have heard the voice of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open
+heaven, or Victor Hugo shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the
+second Republic. And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in
+the street so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so
+that the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated gentleman
+embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship. But in Paris a lamp-post
+is a tragic thing. For we think of tyrants hanged on it, and of an
+end of the world. There is, or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris
+called LA LANTERNE. How funny it would be if there were a Progressive
+paper in England called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the
+Frenchman is the man in the street; that he can dine in the street, and
+die in the street. And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going
+to bed in the street, I shall say that he is still true to the genius
+of his civilisation. All that is good and all that is evil in France is
+alike connected with this open-air element. French democracy and French
+indecency are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a caf, a public-house is a private house.
+
+.....
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through the
+mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort. First of all, it
+lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany, and boundaries are
+the most beautiful things in the world. To love anything is to love its
+boundaries; thus children will always play on the edge of anything.
+They build castles on the edge of the sea, and can only be restrained by
+public proclamation and private violence from walking on the edge of the
+grass. For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come to the
+beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very
+margin of Germany, and although there were many German touches in
+the place--German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical
+barmaids dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet
+the fixed French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks
+of something else. All day long and all night long troops of dusty,
+swarthy, scornful little soldiers went plodding through the streets with
+an air of stubborn disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised
+you, but French soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even
+more than you. It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation
+which has made it good at war and science and other things in which what
+is necessary is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the
+civilians alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of
+head which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call a
+bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call it
+a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen have
+been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+.....
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art of the
+French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of the most typical
+and powerful of the public monuments of France. From the caf table at
+which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town on which hangs the high
+and flat-faced citadel, pierced with many windows, and warmed in the
+evening light. On the steep hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself
+as large as a hill. It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic
+impression. No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common
+statue; no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises, shaking the
+world. The face of the lion has something of the bold conventionality
+of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left like a shapeless cloud of
+tempest, as if it might literally be said of him that God had clothed
+his neck with thunder. Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and
+in some sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken by the Germans
+through all the terrible year, but only laid down its arms at last at
+the command of its own Government. But the spirit of it has been in
+this land from the beginning--the spirit of something defiant and almost
+defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern
+battle of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the
+last sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at
+bay, the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris and
+its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure; but
+it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of roses
+is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others, but
+quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion, they
+are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality. For
+the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort which
+charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts; they are
+torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life with the
+same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence. The enemies
+of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay which does
+not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which the
+Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself, it
+made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is the
+same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth. The new
+realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain. Its
+indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an everlasting revolution.
+It has none of the things which make good Frenchmen love Paris; it has
+only the things which make unspeakable Englishmen love it. It has
+the part which is cosmopolitan--and narrows; not the part which is
+Parisian--and universal. You can find there (as commonly happens in
+modern centres) the worst things of all nations--the DAILY MAIL from
+England, the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of
+France, and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and, above all, no
+French tradition of fighting for an idea. Though all the boulevards look
+like Parisian boulevards, though all the shops look like Parisian shops,
+you cannot look at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the
+full distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters like
+Clemenceau and Deroulde.
+
+.....
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I
+began to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again;
+and I had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of
+the city. In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little
+man with a black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy
+whiskers, like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And
+about the time that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic
+grew thinner, and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were
+saying. Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy
+to follow, because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long
+words because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: "It must that we have the Progress."
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying: "It must also
+that we have the Consolidation International."
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened with
+some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it. One of the Belgians
+was a Little Belgian, as we speak of a Little Englander. The other was a
+Belgian Imperialist, for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be
+altogether a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire. Being
+a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being an empire only
+means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers was the Imperialist,
+and he was saying: "The science, behold there the new guide of
+humanity."
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: "It does not suffice to have
+progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment of the
+human justice."
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard
+in England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on the march.
+All the world goes to make itself instructed. It must that the more
+instructed enlighten the less instructed. Eh, well then, the European
+must impose upon the savage the science and the light. Also (apparently)
+he must impose himself on the savage while he is about it. To-day one
+travelled quickly. The science had changed all. For our fathers,
+they were religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing; all the
+lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves. Soon there would not
+be but the great Empires and confederations, guided by the science,
+always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with the
+sentiment for human justice had "la parole" off him in a flash. Without
+doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments, the
+ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself towards
+Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation, what were
+they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the barbarism?
+The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had passed all
+that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all human souls with
+the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was become a spirit; the
+wings pushed....
+
+.....
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it was
+almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent
+complete alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven
+knows where. I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on
+without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city. On one side
+of the road was one of those small, thin woods which are common in all
+countries, but of which, by a coincidence, the mystical painters of
+Flanders were very fond. The night was closing in with cloudy purple
+and grey; there was one ribbon of silver, the last rag of the sunset.
+Through the wood went one little path, and somehow it suggested that it
+might lead to some sign of life--there was no other sign of life on the
+horizon. I went along it, and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight
+of all those tiny trees. There is something subtle and bewildering about
+that sort of frail and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems
+like a bodily barrier; but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a
+spiritual barrier. It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could
+not pass a phantom. When I had well lost the last gleam of the high
+road a curious and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly
+felt something much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of
+humanity: inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--any men;
+and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe. And at last, when I
+had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw a light too near the earth
+to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door of which
+was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse, who seemed to prefer to
+eat with his head inside the sitting-room. I got past him, and found
+he was being fed by a young man who was sitting down and drinking beer
+inside, and who saluted me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange
+tongue. The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I traced
+at length as belonging to about six small children. Their father was
+still working in the fields, but their mother rose when I entered. She
+smiled, but she and all the rest spoke some rude language, Flamand, I
+suppose; so that we had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched
+me beer, and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men hitting each
+other with swords, it pleased them very much. Then I gave a Belgian
+penny to each child, for as I said on chance in French, "It must be that
+we have the economic equality." But they had never heard of economic
+equality, while all Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality,
+though it is true that they haven't got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying, one that
+Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that Humanity was now
+pushing the wings of the purely intellectual. But for me Humanity was
+hooked on to an accidental picture. I thought of a low and lonely house
+in the flats, behind a veil or film of slight trees, a man breaking the
+ground as men have broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse
+champing his food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+
+
+XXX. The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that in a few hours
+I should be in England, my eye fell upon one of the details of Gothic
+carving of which Flanders is full. I do not know whether the thing is
+old, though it was certainly knocked about and indecipherable, but at
+least it was certainly in the style and tradition of the early Middle
+Ages. It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say twisting
+themselves) to certain primary employments. Some seemed to be
+sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think, were reaping; others were
+energetically pouring something into something else. This is entirely
+characteristic of the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth
+century, perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history. The great
+Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes doing nothing. Splendid
+and philosophic as their composure is there is always about it something
+that marks the master of many slaves. But if there was one thing
+the early mediaevals liked it was representing people doing
+something--hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes, or
+making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. "Quicquid agunt homines,
+votum, timor, ira voluptas." (I quote from memory.) The Middle Ages
+is full of that spirit in all its monuments and manuscripts. Chaucer
+retains it in his jolly insistence on everybody's type of trade and
+toil. It was the earliest and youngest resurrection of Europe, the time
+when social order was strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive;
+the time when religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been
+exasperated. For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic
+carving is different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often
+reining their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever at
+that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving seems actually
+a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone. Sometimes one cannot help feeling
+that the groups actually move and mix, and the whole front of a great
+cathedral has the hum of a huge hive.
+
+.....
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity of which I
+could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads had very curious
+heads, and it seemed to me that they had their mouths open. Whether or
+no this really meant anything or was an accident of nascent art I do not
+know; but in the course of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that
+singing was connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes. I was
+still thinking about this small problem when I walked along the pier
+at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering a measured shout as they
+laboured, and I remembered that sailors still sing in chorus while they
+work, and even sing different songs according to what part of their work
+they are doing. And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was
+over, the sight of men working in the English fields reminded me
+again that there are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural
+routines. And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be quite
+unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry. How did people
+come to chant rude poems while pulling certain ropes or gathering
+certain fruit, and why did nobody do anything of the kind while
+producing any of the modern things? Why is a modern newspaper never
+printed by people singing in chorus? Why do shopmen seldom, if ever,
+sing?
+
+.....
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all the
+separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there not songs
+for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank? As the train
+from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens, I tried to write a few
+songs suitable for commercial gentlemen. Thus, the work of bank clerks
+when casting up columns might begin with a thundering chorus in praise
+of Simple Addition.
+
+"Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er. Hear the
+Stars of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.' Though the creeds and
+realms are reeling, though the sophists roar, Though we weep and pawn
+our watches, Two and Two are Four."
+
+"There's a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager's a crank and
+the Secretary drank, and the
+
+ Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+ Stand close: there is a run
+ On the Bank.
+ Of our ship, our royal one, let the ringing legend run,
+ That she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank."
+
+.....
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine who
+actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions in rhyme to him
+for use among his colleagues. But he was not very hopeful about the
+matter. It was not (he assured me) that he underrated the verses, or in
+any sense lamented their lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an
+indefinable something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks. And I think
+he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious. I may observe
+here that I think there must be some mistake in the calculations of the
+Socialists. They put down all our distress, not to a moral tone, but
+to the chaos of private enterprise. Now, banks are private; but
+post-offices are Socialistic: therefore I naturally expected that the
+post-office would fall into the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of
+my surprise when the lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing)
+dismissed the idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done.
+She seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the verses
+themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse of the
+Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+ "O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+ "Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully certain it
+seemed that the most important and typical modern things could not be
+done with a chorus. One could not, for instance, be a great financier
+and sing; because the essence of being a great financier is that you
+keep quiet. You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being a public man is
+that you do nearly everything in private. Nobody would imagine a chorus
+of money-lenders. Every one knows the story of the solicitors' corps of
+volunteers who, when the Colonel on the battlefield cried "Charge!" all
+said simultaneously, "Six-and-eightpence." Men can sing while charging
+in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at the end of my
+reflections I had really got no further than the sub-conscious feeling
+of my friend the bank-clerk--that there is something spiritually
+suffocating about our life; not about our laws merely, but about our
+life. Bank-clerks are without songs, not because they are poor, but
+because they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards I
+passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which was shaken
+with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own tongue. THEY were
+singing anyhow; and I had for an instant a fancy I had often had before:
+that with us the super-human is the only place where you can find the
+human. Human nature is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday, a
+friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded with
+half-packed luggage.
+
+"You seem to be off on your travels," he said. "Where are you going?"
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, "To Battersea."
+
+"The wit of your remark," he said, "wholly escapes me."
+
+"I am going to Battersea," I repeated, "to Battersea vi Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea."
+
+"I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you," said my friend, with an air
+of intellectual comparison, "that this is Battersea?"
+
+"It is quite unnecessary," I said, "and it is spiritually untrue. I
+cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or any England. I
+cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair: because a cloud of sleep
+and custom has come across my eyes. The only way to get back to them is
+to go somewhere else; and that is the real object of travel and the real
+pleasure of holidays. Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see
+France? Do you suppose that I go to Germany in order to see Germany?
+I shall enjoy them both; but it is not them that I am seeking. I am
+seeking Battersea. The whole object of travel is not to set foot on
+foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a
+foreign land. Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and
+heavy, and that if you utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your
+head. I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical. It is
+not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go to England is to
+go away from it."
+
+But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back to England, I
+was startled to find that I had told the exact truth. England did break
+on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old. To land at Dover is
+the right way to approach England (most things that are hackneyed are
+right), for then you see first the full, soft gardens of Kent, which
+are, perhaps, an exaggeration, but still a typical exaggeration, of the
+rich rusticity of England. As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with
+whom I had fallen into conversation felt the same freshness, though for
+another cause. She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm in that
+simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans, who are the most
+idealistic people in the whole world. Their only danger is that the
+idealist can easily become the idolator. And the American has become
+so idealistic that he even idealises money. But (to quote a very able
+writer of American short stories) that is another story.
+
+"I have never been in England before," said the American lady, "yet
+it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it for a long
+time."
+
+"So you have," I said; "you have been away for three hundred years."
+
+"What a lot of ivy you have," she said. "It covers the churches and
+it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it grow like
+that."
+
+"I am interested to hear it," I replied, "for I am making a little list
+of all the things that are really better in England. Even a month on
+the Continent, combined with intelligence, will teach you that there are
+many things that are better abroad. All the things that the DAILY MAIL
+calls English are better abroad. But there are things entirely English
+and entirely good. Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front
+gardens, and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom
+cabs, and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman or a
+German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a light bursts
+upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of Mrs. Gallup and
+the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the matter of a capital
+letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept everything; bacon did write
+Shakespeare."
+
+"I cannot look at anything but the ivy," she said, "it looks so
+comfortable."
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many weeks
+an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour in which
+he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved because it
+represented something in the nature of permanent public opinion of
+England, above the ebb and flow of the parties. Now Mr. Balfour is a
+perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his own point of view, thinks
+long and seriously about the public needs, and he is, moreover, a man
+of entirely exceptionable intellectual power. But alas, in spite of
+all this, when I had read that speech I thought with a heavy heart that
+there was one more thing that I had to add to the list of the specially
+English things, such as kippers and cricket; I had to add the specially
+English kind of humbug. In France things are attacked and defended for
+what they are. The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended because
+it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican. But here is the
+ablest of English politicians consoling everybody by telling them that
+the House of Lords is not really the House of Lords, but something quite
+different, that the foolish accidental peers whom he meets every night
+are in some mysterious way experts upon the psychology of the democracy;
+that if you want to know what the very poor want you must ask the very
+rich, and that if you want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it
+at Hatfield. If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were
+a logical French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an
+English politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing
+that all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the
+strong English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts. In a
+cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly all the
+Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery. He knows, and
+(as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament knows the very
+names of the peers who have purchased their peerages. But the glamour
+of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself and reassuring others, is
+too strong for this original knowledge; at last it fades from him,
+and he sincerely and earnestly calls on Englishmen to join with him in
+admiring an august and public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten
+that the Senate really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+"Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick," said the American lady, "it
+seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical thing in
+England."
+
+"It is very beautiful," I said, "and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England, wrote one of
+his rare poems about the beauty of ivy. Yes, by all means let us admire
+the ivy, so deep, so warm, so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque
+tenderness. Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree."
+
+
+
+
+XXXII. The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was a
+train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it. And
+while I was running along the train (amid general admiration) I noticed
+that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of carriages marked
+"Engaged." On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages was pasted the
+little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows were big bland
+men staring out in the conscious pride of possession. Their bodies
+seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more than usual
+placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor reasons that
+it was the opposite direction and the wrong day. It could hardly be
+the King. It could hardly be the French President. For, though these
+distinguished persons naturally like to be private for three hours, they
+are at least public for three minutes. A crowd can gather to see
+them step into the train; and there was no crowd here, or any police
+ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train than a
+bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious and delicate than
+the King's own suite? Who were these that were larger than a mob, yet
+more mysterious than a monarch? Was it possible that instead of our
+Royal House visiting the Tsar, he was really visiting us? Or does the
+House of Lords have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge. Then
+the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them got out the
+distinguished holders of the engaged seats. They were all dressed
+decorously in one colour; they had neatly cropped hair; and they were
+chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our eyes
+met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt, a
+native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going. His mouth
+twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said: "I don't
+s'pose they're goin' on an 'oliday at the seaside with little spades
+and pails." I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein of
+literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down to
+Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge, and
+had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when we
+had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea. I
+knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: "Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it."
+And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of the
+English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense of
+pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+.....
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out. For every
+practical purpose of a political state, for every practical purpose of a
+tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted. At a tea-party it
+is equally obvious that he that exalteth himself must be abased, if
+possible without bodily violence. Now people talk of democracy as
+being coarse and turbulent: it is a self-evident error in mere history.
+Aristocracy is the thing that is always coarse and turbulent: for it
+means appealing to the self-confident people. Democracy means appealing
+to the different people. Democracy means getting those people to vote
+who would never have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian
+ethics) the precise people who ought to govern are the people who have
+not the cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my
+friend in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument
+about crime and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything: as if
+one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible. This mere belief in
+bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental; it is simply snobbish. For
+if comfort gives men virtue, the comfortable classes ought to be
+virtuous--which is absurd. Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and
+more watery type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who
+says, with a sort of splutter, "Flog the brutes!" or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity "what he would do" with a certain man--always
+supposing the man's hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak and
+unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental humanitarian
+and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears in the modern babel.
+Yet you very rarely meet either of them in a train. You never meet
+anyone else in a controversy. The man you meet in a train is like this
+man that I met: he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually
+doubtful. So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could be
+"done" to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it would be if
+nothing need be done. But something must be done. "I s'pose we 'ave to
+do it." In short, he is simply a sane man, and of a sane man there is
+only one safe definition. He is a man who can have tragedy in his heart
+and comedy in his head.
+
+.....
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem of the
+proper treatment of criminals is that both parties discuss the matter
+without any direct human feeling. The denouncers of wrong are as cold as
+the organisers of wrong. Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging arranged in our
+modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its scientific paraphernalia,
+the photographing, the medical attendance, prove that it goes to the
+last foul limit of the boot and rack. The cat is simply the rack without
+any of its intellectual reasons. Holding this view strongly, I open the
+ordinary humanitarian books or papers and I find a phrase like this,
+"The lash is a relic of barbarism." So is the plough. So is the fishing
+net. So is the horn or the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an
+inexpressibly feeble phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of
+barbarism! It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow, and
+we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion. There is
+nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism. Man is a
+relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is
+simply a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called
+a relic of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate
+when everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was
+detailed exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous
+sixteenth century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years
+before the Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this
+day. This is, first and last, the frightful thing we must remember.
+In so far as we grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense
+whatever) naturally moving away from torture. We may be moving towards
+torture. We must know what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous
+secret cruelty which has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields. They have
+taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they have done with
+them.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not think
+so; he did not think so because he himself was even more modern than the
+railway station. He did not think so because he was himself feverish,
+irritable, and snorting like an engine. He could not value the ancient
+silence of the railway station.
+
+"In a railway station," he said, "you are in a hurry, and therefore,
+miserable"; but you need not be either unless you are as modern as
+Ruskin. The true philosopher does not think of coming just in time for
+his train except as a bet or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be late
+for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway station
+much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral. It has many of the
+characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building; it has vast arches,
+void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all, it has recurrence or
+ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration of water and fire the two
+prime elements of all human ceremonial. Lastly, a station resembles the
+old religions rather than the new religions in this point, that people
+go there. In connection with this it should also be remembered that all
+popular places, all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain
+the best routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or
+machines used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people. Ruskin
+could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the Underground
+Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations. The great palaces
+of pleasure which the rich build in London all have brazen and vulgar
+names. Their names are either snobbish, like the Hotel Cecil, or
+(worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole. But when I go in a
+third-class carriage from the nearest circle station to Battersea to the
+nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names of the stations are
+one long litany of solemn and saintly memories. Leaving Victoria I come
+to a park belonging especially to St. James the Apostle; thence I go to
+Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes to the awful Abbey; Charing
+Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom; the next station is called a
+Temple; and Blackfriars remembers the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million feet of the
+crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear down old things by sheer
+walking. But the educated kick them down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty railway station,
+where I have no business of any kind. I have extracted a vast number of
+chocolates from automatic machines; I have obtained cigarettes, toffee,
+scent, and other things that I dislike by the same machinery; I have
+weighed myself, with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential antiquity and
+permanence, is still in possession of my mind. I wander up to the
+bookstall, and my faith survives even the wild spectacle of modern
+literature and journalism. Even in the crudest and most clamorous
+aspects of the newspaper world I still prefer the popular to the proud
+and fastidious. If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and
+taking in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL. Even
+mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so irritating as mere
+meanness preached in a big and solemn way. People buy the DAILY MAIL,
+but they do not believe in it. They do believe in the TIMES, and
+(apparently) they do not buy it. But the more the output of paper upon
+the modern world is actually studied, the more it will be found to be
+in all its essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur and historic
+allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library. The novelty is all
+superficial; the tradition is all interior and profound. The DAILY MAIL
+has new editions, but never a new idea. Everything in a newspaper that
+is not the old human love of altar or fatherland is the old human love
+of gossip. Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church struck
+by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem to realise that
+this old barbaric history is the same as new democratic journalism. It
+is not that the savage chronicle has disappeared. It is merely that the
+savage chronicle now appears every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me. On
+the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, "Get On or Get
+Out." The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden revolt and
+reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty; it reminded
+me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly idiotic thing,
+a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing anybody in
+anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful person
+in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being the most
+successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men. When I saw those
+words the silence and sanctity of the railway station were for the
+moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate something
+anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate, means the most
+disgusting individualism of this individualistic world. In the fury of
+my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book, thereby ensuring
+that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it prepared to find
+some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be an exception to
+the general silence and sanctity of the railway station. I was prepared
+to find something in the book that was as infamous as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding to the
+furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover. After reading it
+carefully I could not discover whether I was really to get on or to
+get out; but I had a vague feeling that I should prefer to get out.
+A considerable part of the book, particularly towards the end, was
+concerned with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not discover
+in any way how the details of his life given here were supposed to help
+a person aiming at success. One anecdote described how Napoleon always
+wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose the moral is: always wipe
+your pen on your knee-breeches, and you will win the battle of Wagram.
+Another story told that he let loose a gazelle among the ladies of his
+Court. Clearly the brutal practical inference is--loose a gazelle among
+the ladies of your acquaintance, and you will be Emperor of the French.
+Get on with a gazelle or get out. The book entirely reconciled me to
+the soft twilight of the station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a
+symbolic division which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are
+vertebrates; they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans; their
+hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside. But the
+softness is there; everything in this twilight temple is soft.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIV. The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element of
+truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned, such as meeting
+President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab. What I have now to relate
+really happened; yet there was no element in it of practical politics or
+of personal danger. It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with
+another man. But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible
+thing that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long ago
+that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue, only of its
+main questions and answers; but there is one sentence in it for which I
+can answer absolutely and word for word. It was a sentence so awful that
+I could not forget it if I would. It was the last sentence spoken; and
+it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school. An art
+school is different from almost all other schools or colleges in this
+respect: that, being of new and crude creation and of lax discipline,
+it presents a specially strong contrast between the industrious and the
+idle. People at an art school either do an atrocious amount of work or
+do no work at all. I belonged, along with other charming people, to the
+latter class; and this threw me often into the society of men who were
+very different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied; I was
+engaged about that time in discovering, to my own extreme and lasting
+astonishment, that I was not an atheist. But there were others also at
+loose ends who were engaged in discovering what Carlyle called (I think
+with needless delicacy) the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are two
+very curious things which the critic of human life may observe. The
+first is the fact that there is one real difference between men and
+women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk in
+threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do) three young
+cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk together every
+day you generally find that one of the three cads and idiots is (for
+some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot. In these small
+groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is almost always one
+man who seems to have condescended to his company; one man who, while he
+can talk a foul triviality with his fellows, can also talk politics with
+a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he would
+talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours of the night
+he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even in speculation. He
+was a man with a long, ironical face, and close and red hair; he was
+by class a gentleman, and could walk like one, but preferred, for some
+reason, to walk like a groom carrying two pails. He looked like a sort
+of Super-jockey; as if some archangel had gone on the Turf. And I shall
+never forget the half-hour in which he and I argued about real things
+for the first and the last time.
+
+.....
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school was a part ran
+a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think, than those that lead up to
+St. Paul's Cathedral. On a black wintry evening he and I were wandering
+on these cold heights, which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the
+stars. The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning and
+blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning something in the
+grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went whirling past us like
+a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark. Above us also it was gloom;
+but if one stared long enough at that upper darkness, one saw vertical
+stripes of grey in the black and then became conscious of the colossal
+faade of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+.....
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said it,
+I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it I knew
+it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and full that
+I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+"I am becoming orthodox," I said, "because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than
+a crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches piracy
+disinterestedly and without an adequate salary. A Free Lover is worse
+than a profligate. For a profligate is serious and reckless even in his
+shortest love; while a Free Lover is cautious and irresponsible even in
+his longest devotion. I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous."
+
+"You mean dangerous to morality," he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. "I expect you are right. But why do you care about
+morality?"
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had a
+trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light of the
+bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights. His long chin and
+high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath; so that
+he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit. I had an
+unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness; and even as I paused a
+burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+"Aren't those sparks splendid?" I said.
+
+"Yes," he replied.
+
+"That is all that I ask you to admit," said I. "Give me those few red
+specks and I will deduce Christian morality. Once I thought like you,
+that one's pleasure in a flying spark was a thing that could come and
+go with that spark. Once I thought that the delight was as free as the
+fire. Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space. But now
+I know that the red star is only on the apex of an invisible pyramid of
+virtues. That red fire is only the flower on a stalk of living habits,
+which you cannot see. Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you'
+for a bun are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you were
+humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now enjoy any
+fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them being red because
+you were told about the blood of the martyrs; you only like them
+being bright because brightness is a glory. That flame flowered out of
+virtues, and it will fade with virtues. Seduce a woman, and that spark
+will be less bright. Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be
+really bad, and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper."
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both. He
+only said, "But shall I not find in evil a life of its own? Granted that
+for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out: will not the
+expanding pleasure of ruin..."
+
+"Do you see that fire?" I asked. "If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are."
+
+"Perhaps," he said, in his tired, fair way. "Only what you call evil I
+call good."
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted the steps
+swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find my hat in the
+low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his voice again, but
+the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled: then I heard the voice of
+one of the vilest of his associates saying, "Nobody can possibly know."
+And then I heard those two or three words which I remember in every
+syllable and cannot forget. I heard the Diabolist say, "I tell you I
+have done everything else. If I do that I shan't know the difference
+between right and wrong." I rushed out without daring to pause; and as
+I passed the fire I did not know whether it was hell or the furious love
+of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think, that he
+committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure, not with
+tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went; but I have never
+known, or even dared to think, what was that place at which he stopped
+and refrained.
+
+
+
+
+XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is really
+quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven or Fairyland or
+whatever I called it, was immediately behind my own back, and that this
+was why I could never manage to see it, however often I twisted and
+turned to take it by surprise. I had a notion of a man perpetually
+spinning round on one foot like a teetotum in the effort to find that
+world behind his back which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is
+why the world goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look
+over its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it, yet
+without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive of
+that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is in
+some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned. Always
+the Kingdom of Heaven is "At Hand"; and Looking-glass Land is only
+through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished if
+the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in which all
+the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I turned one
+corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp; I should not
+be surprised if I turned a third corner and found myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day at
+something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street and found
+myself in England.
+
+.....
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation. In the
+darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there is one thing
+that should always be remembered about the very nature of our country.
+It may be shortly stated by saying that England is not such a fool as
+it looks. The types of England, the externals of England, always
+misrepresent the country. England is an oligarchical country, and it
+prefers that its oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners. Our
+countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher places of
+the national life. It may be a strange sight to see the blind leading
+the blind; but England provides a stranger. England shows us the blind
+leading the people who can see. And this again is an under-statement
+of the case. For the English political aristocrats not only speak worse
+than many other people; they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance
+of statesmen is like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected
+thing. If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you
+will be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things. It
+makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently intimate
+with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life in Parliament
+to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself; he
+votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one. A man ought to
+vote with the whole of himself as he worships or gets married. A man
+ought to vote with his head and heart, his soul and stomach, his eye for
+faces and his ear for music; also (when sufficiently provoked) with his
+hands and feet. If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of
+it should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs, they
+should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross. But as it is,
+the difficulty with English democracy at all elections is that it is
+something less than itself. The question is not so much whether only a
+minority of the electorate votes. The point is that only a minority of
+the voter votes.
+
+.....
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak I found
+this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle class which I
+had imagined had almost vanished from the world. It seemed to me that
+all the main representatives of the middle class had gone off in one
+direction or in the other; they had either set out in pursuit of the
+Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit of the Simple Life. I cannot
+say which I dislike more myself; the people in question are welcome to
+have either of them, or, as is more likely, to have both, in hideous
+alternations of disease and cure. But all the prominent men who plainly
+represent the middle class have adopted either the single eye-glass of
+Mr Chamberlain or the single eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads. It was
+serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it committed the
+solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that this old earnest
+political England had practically disappeared. And as I say, I took one
+turn out of Fleet Street and I found a room full of it.
+
+.....
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The
+club was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne'er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all the
+hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth century.
+The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet there was
+not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I often have in
+listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion. The Toryism of this
+club was like the Toryism of Johnson, a Toryism that could use humour
+and appealed to humanity. The democracy of this club was like the
+democracy of Wilkes, a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight
+duels; a democracy that can face things out and endure slander; the
+democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers. Each
+man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as well as he could
+from sheer fury against the other man. This is the greatest of our
+modern descents, that nowadays a man does not become more rhetorical
+as he becomes more sincere. An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got
+really and honestly furious, looked for big words with which to crush
+his adversary. The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech the
+rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening to which nobody
+listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate, or one of the harder
+kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere, he becomes Cockney. "The
+destiny of the Empire," or "The destiny of humanity," do well enough
+for mere ornamental preliminaries, but when the man becomes angry and
+honest, then it is a snarl, "Where do we come in?" or "It's your money
+they want."
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different; they
+were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet quivering with
+passion, and tried to destroy his opponent, not with sniggering, but
+actually with eloquence. I was arguing with them about Home Rule; at
+the end I told them why the English aristocracy really disliked an Irish
+Parliament; because it would be like their club.
+
+.....
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I saw
+pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London was rising
+against something that London had hardly heard of. Then I suddenly
+saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world is an immense and
+tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things. And I saw that
+across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin, sheet of ice, of
+wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I heard
+it crack.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read it through
+very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come to the conclusion
+that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read it through very
+carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet. The image and the
+idea of it clung to me through a great part of my boyhood; I may have
+dreamt it before I could talk; or told it to myself before I could read;
+or read it before I could remember. On the whole, however, I am certain
+that I did not read it, for children have very clear memories about
+things like that; and of the books which I was really fond I can still
+remember, not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline to
+the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+.....
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages of the
+atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me, for the sake of
+argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch restaurants
+in the City where men take their food so fast that it has none of the
+quality of food, and take their half-hour's vacation so fast that it has
+none of the qualities of leisure; to hurry through one's leisure is the
+most unbusiness-like of actions. They all wore tall shiny hats as if
+they could not lose an instant even to hang them on a peg, and they all
+had one eye a little off, hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In
+short, they were the slaves of the modern bondage, you could hear their
+fetters clanking. Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest
+chain ever tied to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man who
+almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue. He was like all
+the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly opposite to them in all
+manner. He wore a high shiny hat and a long frock coat, but he wore them
+as such solemn things were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if
+it were a mitre, and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high
+priest. He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed (such was
+his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat for doing so, and
+to apologise to the peg for making use of it. When he had sat down on
+a wooden chair with the air of one considering its feelings and given a
+sort of slight stoop or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an
+altar, I could not help some comment springing to my lips. For the man
+was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man, and yet he treated
+everything with a care that almost amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said, "This
+furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat it much too
+carelessly."
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed as his was
+fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him ordinary as he entered,
+save for his strange, cautious manner; but if the other people had seen
+him then they would have screamed and emptied the room. They did not see
+him, and they went on making a clatter with their forks, and a murmur
+with their conversation. But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+
+"Did you mean anything particular by that remark?" he asked at last, and
+the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+"Nothing whatever," I answered. "One does not mean anything here; it
+spoils people's digestions."
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief; and
+yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+"I thought perhaps," he said in a low voice, "that another of them had
+gone wrong."
+
+"If you mean another digestion gone wrong," I said, "I never heard of
+one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire, and the other
+organs are in an equally bad way."
+
+"No, I mean another street gone wrong," and he said heavily and quietly,
+"but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you, I think I shall have
+to tell you the story. I do so with all the less responsibility, because
+I know you won't believe it. For forty years of my life I invariably
+left my office, which is in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the
+afternoon, taking with me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the
+left hand. For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the
+side office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side, took
+the first turning to the left and the third to the right, from where I
+bought an evening paper, followed the road on the right-hand side round
+two obtuse angles, and came out just outside a Metropolitan station,
+where I took a train home. For forty years two months and four days I
+fulfilled this course by accumulated habit: it was not a long street
+that I traversed, and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I went out
+in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand and my bag in the
+left, and I began to notice that walking along the familiar street tired
+me somewhat more than usual; and when I turned it I was convinced that I
+had turned down the wrong one. For now the street shot up quite a steep
+slant, such as one only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this
+part there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street; the
+name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were the same; the
+lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective was the same; only
+it was tilted upwards like a lid. Forgetting any trouble about
+breathlessness or fatigue I ran furiously forward, and reached the
+second of my accustomed turnings, which ought to bring me almost within
+sight of the station. And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the
+pavement. For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a
+steep staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles round
+that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill. And this was
+a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole street had lifted itself
+like a single wave, and yet every speck and detail of it was the same,
+and I saw in the high distance, as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked
+out in pink letters the name over my paper shop.
+
+"I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a part
+of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses. I had,
+I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long iron bridge in
+empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up the iron trap of a
+coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty space and the stairs.
+
+"When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was in
+shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing so
+perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world. And the
+stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought to be endured
+by the eyes of men.
+
+"'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of
+devils.'
+
+"After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+
+"'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+Station.'
+
+"'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now,
+however, it is going to heaven.'
+
+"'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+
+"'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody
+does. But you can't neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time, you
+can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the State
+so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no horse,
+no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and yet have
+less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have worked this
+street to death, and yet you have never remembered its existence. If
+you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would have hung this
+street with garlands and given it the name of a god. Then it would have
+gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired of your tireless
+insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to heaven. Have you
+never sat on a bucking horse?'
+
+"I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me to
+be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven. But
+in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this is all nonsense.
+Streets go to the place they have to go. A street must always go to its
+end.'
+
+"'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+
+"'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied, in
+reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always gone to
+Oldgate Station; day after...'
+
+"I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury of the road in
+revolt.
+
+"'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks of
+you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive? Day after day,
+year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station....' Since then I have
+respected the things called inanimate."
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in the restaurant
+withdrew.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can get
+for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun, the moon,
+the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles. You can get
+them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing, which I am
+not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which the lowest price is a
+penny halfpenny. But the general principle will be at once apparent.
+In the street behind me, for instance, you can now get a ride on an
+electric tram for a halfpenny. To be on an electric tram is to be on
+a flying castle in a fairy tale. You can get quite a large number of
+brightly coloured sweets for a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of
+reading this article for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and
+irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array of valuable
+things you can get at a halfpenny each you should do as I was doing last
+night. I was gluing my nose against the glass of a very small and
+dimly lit toy shop in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets
+of Battersea. But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made. Those toys of
+the poor were like the children who buy them; they were all dirty; but
+they were all bright. For my part, I think brightness more important
+than cleanliness; since the first is of the soul, and the second of the
+body. You must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion in
+the modern world.
+
+.....
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red Noah's
+arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance. That lit
+shop-window became like the brilliantly lit stage when one is watching
+some highly coloured comedy. I forgot the grey houses and the grimy
+people behind me as one forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds
+at a theatre. It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were
+small, not because they were toys, but because they were objects far
+away. The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater
+omnibus, passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to
+Bayswater. The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was
+blue with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming and
+only man is black. The red Noah's ark was really the enormous ship
+of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea, red in the first
+morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction, such
+brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the face
+of one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles or
+moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the slowness of
+their growth and the suddenness of their termination. The return to real
+thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man. Very often indeed
+(in my case) it is bumping into a man. But in any case the awakening is
+always emphatic and, generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in
+this case, I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop; but
+in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final. There
+was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told me that I had
+strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I had already done some odd
+thing. I felt as if I had worked a miracle or committed a sin. It was as
+if I had at any rate, stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop and
+tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old and
+broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half his face,
+hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial. Yet though
+he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering in his
+eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling asleep in a not
+unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers, but when I put down the
+money he did not at first seem to see it; then he blinked at it feebly,
+and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+"No, no," he said vaguely. "I never have. I never have. We are rather
+old-fashioned here."
+
+"Not taking money," I replied, "seems to me more like an uncommonly new
+fashion than an old one."
+
+"I never have," said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose; "I've
+always given presents. I'm too old to stop."
+
+"Good heavens!" I said. "What can you mean? Why, you might be Father
+Christmas."
+
+"I am Father Christmas," he said apologetically, and blew his nose
+again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside. At
+any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street; I
+might have strayed into some new and sunless world. But something had
+cut the chords of common sense, and I could not feel even surprise
+except sleepily. Something made me say, "You look ill, Father
+Christmas."
+
+"I am dying," he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+"All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it. They seem
+to object to me on such curious and inconsistent sort of grounds,
+these scientific men, and these innovators. They say that I give people
+superstitions and make them too visionary; they say I give people
+sausages and make them too coarse. They say my heavenly parts are too
+heavenly; they say my earthly parts are too earthly; I don't know what
+they want, I'm sure. How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly
+things too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly? I don't
+understand. But I understand one thing well enough. These modern people
+are living and I am dead."
+
+"You may be dead," I replied. "You ought to know. But as for what they
+are doing, do not call it living."
+
+.....
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected to be
+unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few seconds when, in the
+utter stillness, I distinctly heard a very rapid step coming nearer and
+nearer along the street. The next moment a figure flung itself into the
+shop and stood framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted
+back as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat. He
+had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor; he
+had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the shop
+and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and uttered the
+exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+"Good lord!" he cried out; "it can't be you! It isn't you! I came to ask
+where your grave was."
+
+"I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens," said the old gentleman, with a feeble
+smile; "but I'm dying," he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+"But, dash it all, you were dying in my time," said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; "and you don't look a day older."
+
+"I've felt like this for a long time," said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door into the
+darkness.
+
+"Dick," he roared at the top of his voice; "he's still alive."
+
+.....
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne. He carried
+his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face had even a look
+of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted by his eyes, which were
+literally as humble as a dog's. His sword made a great clatter, as if
+the shop were too small for it.
+
+"Indeed," said Sir Richard Steele, "'tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley and his
+Christmas Day."
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker. It seemed to be
+filled with newcomers.
+
+"It hath ever been understood," said a burly man, who carried his head
+humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think he was Ben
+Jonson--"It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King
+James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were
+fallen sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most
+surely was no lustier when I knew him than now."
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in
+some mixed Norman French, "But I saw the man dying."
+
+"I have felt like this a long time," said Father Christmas, in his
+feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+"Since when?" he asked. "Since you were born?"
+
+"Yes," said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. "I have been
+always dying."
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to
+rise.
+
+"I understand it now," he cried, "you will never die."
+
+
+
+
+XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection
+for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that
+we almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing
+in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the
+Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem,
+heard the bell which told them they were not too late. But we took as
+much pleasure in the people, in the little boys with open, flat
+Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks, making them look
+like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained
+tightly off the temples, and mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous,
+exactly reproduced the late mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little
+tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one
+corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got
+into the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and
+their vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and
+the official came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place
+we should get to if we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic
+people, and he asked us (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness
+and French rationalism) where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question
+was whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great
+deal of international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the
+Flemish and we in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would
+take us to a place which I have never seen written down, but which when
+spoken sounded like the word "Waterloo" pronounced by an intoxicated
+patriot; I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from
+boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field of
+Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was in quite a
+different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads, with one cottage at the
+corner, a perspective of tall trees like Hobbema's "Avenue," and beyond
+only the infinite flat chess-board of the little fields. It was the
+scene of peace and prosperity; but I must confess that my friend's first
+action was to ask the man when there would be another train back to
+Mechlin. The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one
+hour. We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+.....
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and, finding
+the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief. The officer on
+this train could speak nothing but Flemish, but he understood the name
+Mechlin, and indicated that when we came to Mechlin Station he would put
+us down, which, after the right interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling. And
+if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you, why should
+it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails? But on this
+soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line of the Netherlands
+or the fact that we were returning home without any adventure, I really
+did think things a trifle dreary. As soon as we could creep under the
+shelter of a street we turned into a little caf, kept by one woman. She
+was incredibly old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee
+and what was called "cognac fine." "Cognac fine" were the only two
+French words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At
+least, the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I, got up and went
+out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we could at once stroll back
+to our hotel by the station. I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless
+mood, and listening to the unremitting rain.
+
+.....
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured and
+frantic.
+
+"Get up!" he cried, waving his hands wildly. "Get up! We're in the wrong
+town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles, twenty miles
+off--God knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp."
+
+"What!" I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+"Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face for an instant
+behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I was feeling depressed because
+we were in the right town. But if we are in the wrong town--why, we
+have our adventure after all! If we are in the wrong town, we are in the
+right place."
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat more
+grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre, which seemed to
+consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks, who sold lemonade.
+
+"This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!" I cried
+enthusiastically. "We must do something, something sacramental and
+commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be a bore to
+build a temple. Let us write a poem."
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope and one of
+those pencils that turn bright violet in water. There was plenty of
+water about, and the violet ran down the paper, symbolising the rich
+purple of that romantic hour. I began, choosing the form of an old
+French ballade; it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ "Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ "Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----"
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it expressed a more
+wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean. But he only turned up his
+coat collar, and I felt that for him the muse had folded her wings. I
+rewrote--
+
+ "Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre."
+
+"The next line," I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+"The next line," he said somewhat harshly, "will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we have to change
+twice. I dare say I should think this jolly romantic but for the
+weather. Adventure is the champagne of life, but I prefer my champagne
+and my adventures dry. Here is the station."
+
+.....
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred cloud of
+rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky, that even made
+one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said to my friend in a low
+voice--"I have found out everything. We have come to the wrong star."
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: "That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world. When I
+thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it was wrong,
+I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness, tires us
+because it tells us we fit into this world. The true happiness is that
+we don't fit. We come from somewhere else. We have lost our way."
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had
+impressed or only fatigued him I could not tell. "This," I added, "is
+suggested in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ "'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'"
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple we
+heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with "No bally HORS
+D'OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once."
+
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants which
+happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909. And since I tend,
+like all who are growing old, to re-enter the remote past as a paradise
+or playground, I disinter a memory which may serve to stand among those
+memories of small but strange incidents with which I have sometimes
+filled this column. The thing has really some of the dark qualities of
+a detective-story; though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could
+hardly unravel it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the
+actors, doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth
+century, and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that
+Dr. Johnson was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over
+gravy, snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt. I
+had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions as
+I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been. I requested
+that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I might touch
+all of them but one, and then go back and touch that. Failing this, I
+felt that the least they could do was to have twenty-five cups of tea
+stationed at regular intervals along the course, each held by a Mrs.
+Thrale in full costume. My best constructive suggestion was the most
+harshly rejected of all. In front of me in the procession walked the
+great Bishop Berkeley, the man who turned the tables on the early
+materialists by maintaining that matter itself possibly does not exist.
+Dr. Johnson, you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as
+Berkeley's, and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, "I refute him so!"
+Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars, but
+behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot. But I
+must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities; we old men grow
+too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my assumed
+character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place at night
+in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date), that the
+garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms, and especially
+with early Celtic saints smoking pipes, and with elegant Renaissance
+gentlemen talking Cockney. Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless
+to say, that I got lost. I wandered away into some dim corner of that
+dim shrubbery, where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent
+ropes, and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man, who
+stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle. When I thought
+he would pass me, he stopped before my face, and said, "Dr. Johnson, I
+think. I am Paley."
+
+"Sir," I said, "you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you will
+perform a yet higher and harder function."
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but, turning
+his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms and winding
+mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight and laughing
+men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am (you will say)
+naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient. I was, moreover,
+unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark and took a man for a
+spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise as a modern gentleman in
+a masquerade dress. No; far from it. That spectral person was my first
+introduction to a special incident which has never been explained and
+which still lays its finger on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled as one
+does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life and a great
+deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger than life; he ought
+to have been a little man in a night-cap, with a cat under one arm and
+a spaniel under the other. As it was, he was a magnificent person, and
+looked more like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog. When I
+came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful improvement upon
+himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog and cat and would not
+be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting to be kicked in the
+interests of philosophy. In short, I met all my old friends but one.
+Where was Paley? I had been mystically moved by the man's presence; I
+was moved more by his absence. At last I saw advancing towards us
+across the twilight garden a little man with a large book and a bright
+attractive face. When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear
+voice, "I'm Paley." The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was
+ill and had sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four or five
+colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual friend with
+Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke. Cowper, I think
+it was, who introduced me to a friend of his, a fresh face, square
+and sturdy, framed in a white wig. "This," he explained, "is my friend
+So-and-So. He's Paley." I looked round at all the faces by this time
+fixed and familiar; I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the
+third Paley as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this one
+particular cleric should be so varying and elusive. It was singular
+that Paley, alone among men, should swell and shrink and alter like a
+phantom, while all else remained solid. But the thing was explicable;
+two men had been ill and there was an end of it; only I went again
+the next night, and a clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair
+bounded up to me, and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition of
+the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural explanations
+have broken down and no supernatural explanation has been established.
+My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I found myself once more in
+the colour and clatter of the pageant, and I was all the more pleased
+because I met an old school-fellow, and we mutually recognised each
+other under our heavy clothes and hoary wigs. We talked about all those
+great things for which literature is too small and only life large
+enough; red-hot memories and those gigantic details which make up the
+characters of men. I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of
+and those he had kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked
+at last how he came into the pageant.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was...."
+
+"No, by thunder!" I said, "nor does anyone."
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream. I
+scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure which
+fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased. What
+could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among the faithful
+found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity or the
+unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being could support
+being Paley for one night and live till morning? Or was it that the
+gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British public thirsting
+to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time? Or is there some
+ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret society of Deists still
+assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery; and that
+for two reasons. First, the story is so true that I have had to put a
+lie into it. Every word of this narrative is veracious, except the one
+word Paley. And second, because I have got to go into the next room and
+dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+ <head>
+ <title>
+ Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
+ </title>
+ <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
+ body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+ P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+ H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+ hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+ .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
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+ .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+ .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+ .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;}
+ div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+ div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+ .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+ .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+ .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal;
+ margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+ text-align: right;}
+ pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
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+</style>
+ </head>
+ <body>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: August 10, 2009 [EBook #8092]
+Last Updated: March 9, 2018
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer, and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <h1>
+ TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+ </h1>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ By G. K. Chesterton
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <blockquote>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big>
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE </a> <br /> <br /><br /> <a
+ href="#link2H_4_0002"> I. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Tremendous Trifles <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> II. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A Piece of Chalk <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> III. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Secret of a Train
+ <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> IV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Perfect
+ Game <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> V. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Extraordinary Cabman <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> VI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;An
+ Accident <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> VII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Advantages of Having One Leg <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> VIII.
+ </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The End of the World <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0010">
+ IX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;In the Place de La Bastille <br /><br /> <a
+ href="#link2H_4_0011"> X. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;On Lying in Bed <br /><br /> <a
+ href="#link2H_4_0012"> XI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Twelve Men <br /><br /> <a
+ href="#link2H_4_0013"> XII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Wind and the Trees <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> XIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Dickensian <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> XIV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;In Topsy-Turvy Land <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> XV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;What I Found in My Pocket
+ <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> XVI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Dragon's
+ Grandmother <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> XVII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Red Angel <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> XVIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Tower <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> XIX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;How I
+ Met the President <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> XX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Giant <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> XXI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A Great
+ Man <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> XXII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Orthodox Barber <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> XXIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Toy Theatre <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> XXIV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A
+ Tragedy of Twopence <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> XXV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A
+ Cab Ride Across Country <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> XXVI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Two Noises <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> XXVII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Some
+ Policemen and a Moral <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> XXVIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Lion <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> XXIX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Humanity:
+ an Interlude <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0031"> XXX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Little Birds Who Won't Sing <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0032"> XXXI.
+ </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Riddle of the Ivy <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0033">
+ XXXII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Travellers in State <br /><br /> <a
+ href="#link2H_4_0034"> XXXIII. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Prehistoric Railway
+ Station <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0035"> XXXIV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The
+ Diabolist <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0036"> XXXV. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A
+ Glimpse of My Country <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0037"> XXXVI. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;A
+ Somewhat Improbable Story <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0038"> XXXVII.
+ </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Shop Of Ghosts <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_4_0039">
+ XXXVIII. &nbsp;&nbsp;</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Ballade of a Strange Town <br /><br />
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0040"> XXXIX. </a>&nbsp;&nbsp;The Mystery of a
+ Pageant <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ </blockquote>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ PREFACE
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission of the
+ Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared. They amount to no
+ more than a sort of sporadic diary&mdash;a diary recording one day in
+ twenty which happened to stick in the fancy&mdash;the only kind of diary
+ the author has ever been able to keep. Even that diary he could only keep
+ by keeping it in public, for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the
+ topics they are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive. As the
+ reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages, it probably
+ alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post, a window blind or a wall.
+ It is a thousand to one that the reader is looking at something that he
+ has never seen: that is, never realised. He could not write an essay on
+ such a post or wall: he does not know what the post or wall mean. He could
+ not even write the synopsis of an essay; as &ldquo;The Bed-Post; Its
+ Significance&mdash;Security Essential to Idea of Sleep&mdash;Night Felt as
+ Infinite&mdash;Need of Monumental Architecture,&rdquo; and so on. He could not
+ sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards window-blinds, even in
+ the form of a summary. &ldquo;The Window-Blind&mdash;Its Analogy to the Curtain
+ and Veil&mdash;Is Modesty Natural?&mdash;Worship of and Avoidance of the
+ Sun, etc., etc.&rdquo; None of us think enough of these things on which the eye
+ rests. But don't let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy?
+ Let us exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that run
+ across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be ocular
+ athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or a coloured cloud.
+ I have attempted some such thing in what follows; but anyone else may do
+ it better, if anyone else will only try.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <h2>
+ I. Tremendous Trifles
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly in the front
+ garden, because their villa was a model one. The front garden was about
+ the same size as the dinner table; it consisted of four strips of gravel,
+ a square of turf with some mysterious pieces of cork standing up in the
+ middle and one flower bed with a row of red daisies. One morning while
+ they were at play in these romantic grounds, a passing individual,
+ probably the milkman, leaned over the railing and engaged them in
+ philosophical conversation. The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter,
+ were at least sharply interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who was,
+ I need say, a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering them
+ in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for. And Paul
+ closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness, explaining that he
+ had long wished to be a giant that he might stride across continents and
+ oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas in an afternoon dinner stroll.
+ The milkman producing a wand from his breast pocket, waved it in a hurried
+ and perfunctory manner; and in an instant the model villa with its front
+ garden was like a tiny doll's house at Paul's colossal feet. He went
+ striding away with his head above the clouds to visit Niagara and the
+ Himalayas. But when he came to the Himalayas, he found they were quite
+ small and silly-looking, like the little cork rockery in the garden; and
+ when he found Niagara it was no bigger than the tap turned on in the
+ bathroom. He wandered round the world for several minutes trying to find
+ something really large and finding everything small, till in sheer boredom
+ he lay down on four or five prairies and fell asleep. Unfortunately his
+ head was just outside the hut of an intellectual backwoodsman who came out
+ of it at that moment with an axe in one hand and a book of Neo-Catholic
+ Philosophy in the other. The man looked at the book and then at the giant,
+ and then at the book again. And in the book it said, &ldquo;It can be maintained
+ that the evil of pride consists in being out of proportion to the
+ universe.&rdquo; So the backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and,
+ working eight hours a day for about a week, cut the giant's head off; and
+ there was an end of him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly enough,
+ made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long wished to be a
+ pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he immediately became one.
+ When the transformation was over he found himself in the midst of an
+ immense plain, covered with a tall green jungle and above which, at
+ intervals, rose strange trees each with a head like the sun in symbolic
+ pictures, with gigantic rays of silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward
+ the middle of this prairie stood up a mountain of such romantic and
+ impossible shape, yet of such stony height and dominance, that it looked
+ like some incident of the end of the world. And far away on the faint
+ horizon he could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more
+ mystical, of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever. He
+ set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has not come
+ to the end of it yet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+ qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit for
+ children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced it is not
+ childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction. It is in fact the
+ almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating the pages that follow.
+ Peter and Paul are the two primary influences upon European literature
+ to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own preference in its most
+ favourable shape, even if I can only do it by what little girls call
+ telling a story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+ that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+ existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other great
+ literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England by Mr.
+ Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest by
+ sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+ variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere. Let it
+ be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight; and the two
+ alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school advises us to go to
+ Central Africa in order to find a man without a frock coat. The school to
+ which I belong suggests that we should stare steadily at the man until we
+ see the man inside the frock coat. If we stare at him long enough he may
+ even be moved to take off his coat to us; and that is a far greater
+ compliment than his taking off his hat. In other words, we may, by fixing
+ our attention almost fiercely on the facts actually before us, force them
+ to turn into adventures; force them to give up their meaning and fulfil
+ their mysterious purpose. The purpose of the Kipling literature is to show
+ how many extraordinary things a man may see if he is active and strides
+ from continent to continent like the giant in my tale. But the object of
+ my school is to show how many extraordinary things even a lazy and
+ ordinary man may see if he can spur himself to the single activity of
+ seeing. For this purpose I have taken the laziest person of my
+ acquaintance, that is myself; and made an idle diary of such odd things as
+ I have fallen over by accident, in walking in a very limited area at a
+ very indolent pace. If anyone says that these are very small affairs
+ talked about in very big language, I can only gracefully compliment him
+ upon seeing the joke. If anyone says that I am making mountains out of
+ molehills, I confess with pride that it is so. I can imagine no more
+ successful and productive form of manufacture than that of making
+ mountains out of molehills. But I would add this not unimportant fact,
+ that molehills are mountains; one has only to become a pigmy like Peter to
+ discover that.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering, in getting
+ to the top of everything and overlooking everything. Satan was the most
+ celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took Jesus to the top of an exceeding
+ high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the earth. But the joy of
+ Satan in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness, but a joy in
+ beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like insects at his
+ feet. It is from the valley that things look large; it is from the level
+ that things look high; I am a child of the level and have no need of that
+ celebrated Alpine guide. I will lift up my eyes to the hills, from whence
+ cometh my help; but I will not lift up my carcass to the hills, unless it
+ is absolutely necessary. Everything is in an attitude of mind; and at this
+ moment I am in a comfortable attitude. I will sit still and let the
+ marvels and the adventures settle on me like flies. There are plenty of
+ them, I assure you. The world will never starve for want of wonders; but
+ only for want of wonder.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ II. A Piece of Chalk
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+ holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+ nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up a
+ walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket. I
+ then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+ belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village), and
+ asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any brown paper.
+ She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she mistook the
+ purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper. She seemed to
+ have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must be wanting to tie
+ up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to do; indeed, it is a thing
+ which I have found to be beyond my mental capacity. Hence she dwelt very
+ much on the varying qualities of toughness and endurance in the material.
+ I explained to her that I only wanted to draw pictures on it, and that I
+ did not want them to endure in the least; and that from my point of view,
+ therefore, it was a question, not of tough consistency, but of responsive
+ surface, a thing comparatively irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood
+ that I wanted to draw she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper,
+ apparently supposing that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown
+ paper wrappers from motives of economy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I not only
+ liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness in paper, just as I
+ liked the quality of brownness in October woods, or in beer, or in the
+ peat-streams of the North. Brown paper represents the primal twilight of
+ the first toil of creation, and with a bright-coloured chalk or two you
+ can pick out points of fire in it, sparks of gold, and blood-red, and
+ sea-green, like the first fierce stars that sprang out of divine darkness.
+ All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman; and I put the brown
+ paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and possibly other things. I
+ suppose every one must have reflected how primeval and how poetical are
+ the things that one carries in one's pocket; the pocket-knife, for
+ instance, the type of all human tools, the infant of the sword. Once I
+ planned to write a book of poems entirely about the things in my pockets.
+ But I found it would be too long; and the age of the great epics is past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper, I went out on to
+ the great downs. I crawled across those colossal contours that express the
+ best quality of England, because they are at the same time soft and
+ strong. The smoothness of them has the same meaning as the smoothness of
+ great cart-horses, or the smoothness of the beech-tree; it declares in the
+ teeth of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty are merciful. As my
+ eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly as any of its
+ cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake. The villages in the
+ immense valley were safe, one could see, for centuries; yet the lifting of
+ the whole land was like the lifting of one enormous wave to wash them all
+ away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place to
+ sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going to
+ sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim, and blind old
+ gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right, and saints in robes of
+ angry crimson, and seas of strange green, and all the sacred or monstrous
+ symbols that look so well in bright colours on brown paper. They are much
+ better worth drawing than Nature; also they are much easier to draw. When
+ a cow came slouching by in the field next to me, a mere artist might have
+ drawn it; but I always get wrong in the hind legs of quadrupeds. So I drew
+ the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly walking before me in the
+ sunlight; and the soul was all purple and silver, and had seven horns and
+ the mystery that belongs to all the beasts. But though I could not with a
+ crayon get the best out of the landscape, it does not follow that the
+ landscape was not getting the best out of me. And this, I think, is the
+ mistake that people make about the old poets who lived before Wordsworth,
+ and were supposed not to care very much about Nature because they did not
+ describe it much.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills; but
+ they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much less about
+ Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They painted the white
+ robes of their holy virgins with the blinding snow, at which they had
+ stared all day. They blazoned the shields of their paladins with the
+ purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets. The greenness of a thousand
+ green leaves clustered into the live green figure of Robin Hood. The
+ blueness of a score of forgotten skies became the blue robes of the
+ Virgin. The inspiration went in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began to
+ dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that a
+ most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets, but
+ I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted with all
+ the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art of drawing on
+ brown paper, know that white is positive and essential. I cannot avoid
+ remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the wise and awful truths
+ which this brown-paper art reveals, is this, that white is a colour. It is
+ not a mere absence of colour; it is a shining and affirmative thing, as
+ fierce as red, as definite as black. When, so to speak, your pencil grows
+ red-hot, it draws roses; when it grows white-hot, it draws stars. And one
+ of the two or three defiant verities of the best religious morality, of
+ real Christianity, for example, is exactly this same thing; the chief
+ assertion of religious morality is that white is a colour. Virtue is not
+ the absence of vices or the avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid
+ and separate thing, like pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean
+ not being cruel or sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a plain
+ and positive thing like the sun, which one has either seen or not seen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means something
+ flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in many colours; but He
+ never paints so gorgeously, I had almost said so gaudily, as when He
+ paints in white. In a sense our age has realised this fact, and expressed
+ it in our sullen costume. For if it were really true that white was a
+ blank and colourless thing, negative and non-committal, then white would
+ be used instead of black and grey for the funeral dress of this
+ pessimistic period. We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of
+ spotless silver linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies.
+ Which is not the case.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town nearer than
+ Chichester at which it was even remotely probable that there would be such
+ a thing as an artist's colourman. And yet, without white, my absurd little
+ pictures would be as pointless as the world would be if there were no good
+ people in it. I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for expedients.
+ Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and again, so
+ that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine a man in the
+ Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass. Imagine a
+ gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some salt water with
+ him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on an immense warehouse of
+ white chalk. The landscape was made entirely out of white chalk. White
+ chalk was piled more miles until it met the sky. I stooped and broke a
+ piece off the rock I sat on; it did not mark so well as the shop chalks
+ do; but it gave the effect. And I stood there in a trance of pleasure,
+ realising that this Southern England is not only a grand peninsula, and a
+ tradition and a civilisation; it is something even more admirable. It is a
+ piece of chalk.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ III. The Secret of a Train
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a loose
+ memory. I will not merely say that this story is true: because, as you
+ will soon see, it is all truth and no story. It has no explanation and no
+ conclusion; it is, like most of the other things we encounter in life, a
+ fragment of something else which would be intensely exciting if it were
+ not too large to be seen. For the perplexity of life arises from there
+ being too many interesting things in it for us to be interested properly
+ in any of them; what we call its triviality is really the tag-ends of
+ numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like ten thousand
+ thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon. My experience was a
+ fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate, not fictitious. Not only
+ am I not making up the incidents (what there were of them), but I am not
+ making up the atmosphere of the landscape, which were the whole horror of
+ the thing. I remember them vividly, and they were as I shall now describe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing outside
+ the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London. And for some
+ reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind or the emptiness of
+ the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice fell upon me that I
+ would not go by that train at all, but would step out on the road and walk
+ at least some part of the way to London. I do not know if other people are
+ made like me in this matter; but to me it is always dreary weather, what
+ may be called useless weather, that slings into life a sense of action and
+ romance. On bright blue days I do not want anything to happen; the world
+ is complete and beautiful, a thing for contemplation. I no more ask for
+ adventures under that turquoise dome than I ask for adventures in church.
+ But when the background of man's life is a grey background, then, in the
+ name of man's sacred supremacy, I desire to paint on it in fire and gore.
+ When the heavens fail man refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have
+ written on it, in letters of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing
+ shall happen, then the immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises
+ up and decrees that something shall happen, if it be only the slaughter of
+ a policeman. But this is a digressive way of stating what I have said
+ already&mdash;that the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger for some change of
+ plans, that the monotonous weather seemed to render unbearable the use of
+ the monotonous train, and that I set out into the country lanes, out of
+ the town of Oxford. It was, perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse
+ came upon me out of the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that
+ years afterwards I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir
+ George Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+ that he went to Cambridge.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless. The fields
+ that should have been green were as grey as the skies; the tree-tops that
+ should have been green were as grey as the clouds and as cloudy. And when
+ I had walked for some hours the evening was closing in. A sickly sunset
+ clung weakly to the horizon, as if pale with reluctance to leave the world
+ in the dark. And as it faded more and more the skies seemed to come closer
+ and to threaten. The clouds which had been merely sullen became swollen;
+ and then they loosened and let down the dark curtains of the rain. The
+ rain was blinding and seemed to beat like blows from an enemy at close
+ quarters; the skies seemed bending over and bawling in my ears. I walked
+ on many more miles before I met a man, and in that distance my mind had
+ been made up; and when I met him I asked him if anywhere in the
+ neighbourhood I could pick up the train for Paddington. He directed me to
+ a small silent station (I cannot even remember the name of it) which stood
+ well away from the road and looked as lonely as a hut on the Andes. I do
+ not think I have ever seen such a type of time and sadness and scepticism
+ and everything devilish as that station was: it looked as if it had always
+ been raining there ever since the creation of the world. The water
+ streamed from the soaking wood of it as if it were not water at all, but
+ some loathsome liquid corruption of the wood itself; as if the solid
+ station were eternally falling to pieces and pouring away in filth. It
+ took me nearly ten minutes to find a man in the station. When I did he was
+ a dull one, and when I asked him if there was a train to Paddington his
+ answer was sleepy and vague. As far as I understood him, he said there
+ would be a train in half an hour. I sat down and lit a cigar and waited,
+ watching the last tail of the tattered sunset and listening to the
+ everlasting rain. It may have been in half an hour or less, but a train
+ came rather slowly into the station. It was an unnaturally dark train; I
+ could not see a light anywhere in the long black body of it; and I could
+ not see any guard running beside it. I was reduced to walking up to the
+ engine and calling out to the stoker to ask if the train was going to
+ London. &ldquo;Well&mdash;yes, sir,&rdquo; he said, with an unaccountable kind of
+ reluctance. &ldquo;It is going to London; but&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; It was just
+ starting, and I jumped into the first carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat
+ there smoking and wondering, as we steamed through the continually
+ darkening landscape, lined with desolate poplars, until we slowed down and
+ stopped, irrationally, in the middle of a field. I heard a heavy noise as
+ of some one clambering off the train, and a dark, ragged head suddenly put
+ itself into my window. &ldquo;Excuse me, sir,&rdquo; said the stoker, &ldquo;but I think,
+ perhaps&mdash;well, perhaps you ought to know&mdash;there's a dead man in
+ this train.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities and
+ nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be finally
+ overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have insisted on getting
+ out and walking. As it was, I regret to say, I expressed myself politely,
+ but firmly, to the effect that I didn't care particularly if the train
+ took me to Paddington. But when the train had started with its unknown
+ burden I did do one thing, and do it quite instinctively, without stopping
+ to think, or to think more than a flash. I threw away my cigar. Something
+ that is as old as man and has to do with all mourning and ceremonial told
+ me to do it. There was something unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me,
+ in the idea of there being only two men in that train, and one of them
+ dead and the other smoking a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt
+ end of it faded like a funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic moment
+ of a procession, I realised how immortal ritual is. I realised (what is
+ the origin and essence of all ritual) that in the presence of those sacred
+ riddles about which we can say nothing it is more decent merely to do
+ something. And I realised that ritual will always mean throwing away
+ something; DESTROYING our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang out of it
+ with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier and officials
+ guarding the rear part of the train; no one was allowed to press towards
+ it. They were guarding and hiding something; perhaps death in some too
+ shocking form, perhaps something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up
+ with human mystery and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of
+ sanctity; perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough
+ into the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces. Nor have
+ I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I wandered or
+ what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ IV. The Perfect Game
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ We have all met the man who says that some odd things have happened to
+ him, but that he does not really believe that they were supernatural. My
+ own position is the opposite of this. I believe in the supernatural as a
+ matter of intellect and reason, not as a matter of personal experience. I
+ do not see ghosts; I only see their inherent probability. But it is
+ entirely a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions; my
+ nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy. But upon people
+ of this temperament one weird incident will often leave a peculiar
+ impression. And the weirdest circumstance that ever occurred to me
+ occurred a little while ago. It consisted in nothing less than my playing
+ a game, and playing it quite well for some seventeen consecutive minutes.
+ The ghost of my grandfather would have astonished me less.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+ inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had imagined
+ that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope, and I had
+ neglected to provide myself with those very long and luxuriant side
+ whiskers which are really essential to such a scene. I played it with a
+ man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had a semi-philosophical
+ argument which lasted through the entire contest. It is deeply implanted
+ in my mind that I had the best of the argument; but it is certain and
+ beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!&rdquo; I cried, patting him affectionately on the
+ head with a mallet, &ldquo;how far you really are from the pure love of the
+ sport&mdash;you who can play. It is only we who play badly who love the
+ Game itself. You love glory; you love applause; you love the earthquake
+ voice of victory; you do not love croquet. You do not love croquet until
+ you love being beaten at croquet. It is we the bunglers who adore the
+ occupation in the abstract. It is we to whom it is art for art's sake. If
+ we may see the face of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself) we are
+ content to see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is called
+ amateurish; and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs is but
+ the French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady, the most
+ disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates (I allude to
+ the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls, impetuous and
+ full of chivalry, will not be confined within the pedantic boundaries of
+ the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek honour in the ends of the earth;
+ they turn up in the flower-beds and the conservatory; they are to be found
+ in the front garden and the next street. No, Parkinson! The good painter
+ has skill. It is the bad painter who loves his art. The good musician
+ loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With such a pure and
+ hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game itself. I love the
+ parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or tape, as if its limits
+ were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland, the four seas of Britain. I
+ love the mere swing of the mallets, and the click of the balls is music.
+ The four colours are to me sacramental and symbolic, like the red of
+ martyrdom, or the white of Easter Day. You lose all this, my poor
+ Parkinson. You have to solace yourself for the absence of this vision by
+ the paltry consolation of being able to go through hoops and to hit the
+ stick.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Don't be too sorry for me,&rdquo; said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm. &ldquo;I
+ shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more a man likes a
+ game the better he would want to play it. Granted that the pleasure in the
+ thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure of success come naturally
+ and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your own simile of the Knight and his
+ Lady-love. I admit the gentleman does first and foremost want to be in the
+ lady's presence. But I never yet heard of a gentleman who wanted to look
+ an utter ass when he was there.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perhaps not; though he generally looks it,&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;But the truth is
+ that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+ happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which can
+ be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking, the
+ jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the love of
+ both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not true that
+ the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger will be the
+ game. It is logically possible&mdash;(follow me closely here, Parkinson!)&mdash;it
+ is logically possible, to play croquet too well to enjoy it at all. If you
+ could put this blue ball through that distant hoop as easily as you could
+ pick it up with your hand, then you would not put it through that hoop any
+ more than you pick it up with your hand; it would not be worth doing. If
+ you could play unerringly you would not play at all. The moment the game
+ is perfect the game disappears.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I do not think, however,&rdquo; said Parkinson, &ldquo;that you are in any immediate
+ danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not think your croquet
+ will vanish through its own faultless excellence. You are safe for the
+ present.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired myself,
+ and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this time it
+ was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four more fundamental
+ principles, and my companion had gone through five more hoops, the dusk
+ was verging upon dark.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;We shall have to give this up,&rdquo; said Parkinson, as he missed a ball
+ almost for the first time, &ldquo;I can't see a thing.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nor can I,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;and it is a comfort to reflect that I could not
+ hit anything if I saw it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+ towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+ Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+ indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+ again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was the
+ right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that impossible
+ ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I supposed was the vague
+ direction of the quite invisible stick. And in the dead silence I heard
+ the stick rattle as the ball struck it heavily.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I threw down my mallet. &ldquo;I can't stand this,&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;My ball has gone
+ right three times. These things are not of this world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Pick your mallet up,&rdquo; said Parkinson, &ldquo;have another go.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see all
+ the devils dancing there on the blessed grass.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why devils?&rdquo; asked Parkinson; &ldquo;they may be only fairies making fun of
+ you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness, in which the
+ faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across the grass as if it
+ burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball somewhere&mdash;somewhere
+ where another ball might be. I heard the dull click of the balls touching,
+ and ran into the house like one pursued.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ V. The Extraordinary Cabman
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+ narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+ insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper columns. I
+ mean only that I have found that my meaning was better expressed by some
+ practical parable out of daily life than by any other method; therefore I
+ propose to narrate the incident of the extraordinary cabman, which
+ occurred to me only three days ago, and which, slight as it apparently is,
+ aroused in me a moment of genuine emotion bordering upon despair.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching in a little
+ restaurant in Soho in company with three or four of my best friends. My
+ best friends are all either bottomless sceptics or quite uncontrollable
+ believers, so our discussion at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate and
+ terrible ideas. And the whole argument worked out ultimately to this: that
+ the question is whether a man can be certain of anything at all. I think
+ he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend, furiously brandishing
+ an empty bottle) it is impossible intellectually to entertain certainty,
+ what is this certainty which it is impossible to entertain? If I have
+ never experienced such a thing as certainty I cannot even say that a thing
+ is not certain. Similarly, if I have never experienced such a thing as
+ green I cannot even say that my nose is not green. It may be as green as
+ possible for all I know, if I have really no experience of greenness. So
+ we shouted at each other and shook the room; because metaphysics is the
+ only thoroughly emotional thing. And the difference between us was very
+ deep, because it was a difference as to the object of the whole thing
+ called broad-mindedness or the opening of the intellect. For my friend
+ said that he opened his intellect as the sun opens the fans of a palm
+ tree, opening for opening's sake, opening infinitely for ever. But I said
+ that I opened my intellect as I opened my mouth, in order to shut it again
+ on something solid. I was doing it at the moment. And as I truly pointed
+ out, it would look uncommonly silly if I went on opening my mouth
+ infinitely, for ever and ever.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short (for it
+ will never be over), I went away with one of my companions, who in the
+ confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election had somehow
+ become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab from the
+ corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House of
+ Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+ Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper is a
+ discussion between us which still continues.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude of
+ detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab on a few
+ hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I had to visit. I then
+ got out and offered him more than his fare. He looked at it, but not with
+ the surly doubt and general disposition to try it on which is not unknown
+ among normal cabmen. But this was no normal, perhaps, no human, cabman. He
+ looked at it with a dull and infantile astonishment, clearly quite
+ genuine. &ldquo;Do you know, sir,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;you've only given me 1s.8d?&rdquo; I
+ remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. &ldquo;Now you know, sir,&rdquo;
+ said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, &ldquo;you know that ain't the
+ fare from Euston.&rdquo; &ldquo;Euston,&rdquo; I repeated vaguely, for the phrase at that
+ moment sounded to me like China or Arabia. &ldquo;What on earth has Euston got
+ to do with it?&rdquo; &ldquo;You hailed me just outside Euston Station,&rdquo; began the man
+ with astonishing precision, &ldquo;and then you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; &ldquo;What in the
+ name of Tartarus are you talking about?&rdquo; I said with Christian
+ forbearance; &ldquo;I took you at the south-west corner of Leicester-square.&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;Leicester-square,&rdquo; he exclaimed, loosening a kind of cataract of scorn,
+ &ldquo;why we ain't been near Leicester-square to-day. You hailed me outside
+ Euston Station, and you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo; &ldquo;Are you mad, or am I?&rdquo; I
+ asked with scientific calm.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would think of creating
+ so solid and colossal and creative a lie. And this man was not a dishonest
+ cabman. If ever a human face was heavy and simple and humble, and with
+ great big blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever (in short) a human
+ face was all that a human face should be, it was the face of that
+ resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and down the street; an
+ unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming on. And for one second the old
+ nightmare of the sceptic put its finger on my nerve. What was certainty?
+ Was anybody certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the dull rut of the
+ sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future life. The exciting
+ question for real scepticism is whether we possess a past life. What is a
+ minute ago, rationalistically considered, except a tradition and a
+ picture? The darkness grew deeper from the road. The cabman calmly gave me
+ the most elaborate details of the gesture, the words, the complex but
+ consistent course of action which I had adopted since that remarkable
+ occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston Station. How did I know (my
+ sceptical friends would say) that I had not hailed him outside Euston. I
+ was firm about my assertion; he was quite equally firm about his. He was
+ obviously quite as honest a man as I, and a member of a much more
+ respectable profession. In that moment the universe and the stars swung
+ just a hair's breadth from their balance, and the foundations of the earth
+ were moved. But for the same reason that I believe in Democracy, for the
+ same reason that I believe in free will, for the same reason that I
+ believe in fixed character of virtue, the reason that could only be
+ expressed by saying that I do not choose to be a lunatic, I continued to
+ believe that this honest cabman was wrong, and I repeated to him that I
+ had really taken him at the corner of Leicester-square. He began with the
+ same evident and ponderous sincerity, &ldquo;You hailed me outside Euston
+ Station, and you said&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And at this moment there came over his features a kind of frightful
+ transfiguration of living astonishment, as if he had been lit up like a
+ lamp from the inside. &ldquo;Why, I beg your pardon, sir,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;I beg your
+ pardon. I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I remember
+ now. I beg your pardon.&rdquo; And with that this astonishing man let out his
+ whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away. The whole of
+ which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear, is strictly
+ true.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance and the
+ mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying that although his
+ face had seemed so honest there was something unearthly and demoniac about
+ him when seen from behind. Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me from my
+ adherence to those sanities and certainties which I had defended earlier
+ in the day. In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that my sense of
+ reality, though it had rocked for an instant, had remained erect.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ VI. An Accident
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called &ldquo;The
+ Extraordinary Cabman.&rdquo; I am now in a position to contribute my experience
+ of a still more extraordinary cab. The extraordinary thing about the cab
+ was that it did not like me; it threw me out violently in the middle of
+ the Strand. If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are as romantic (and as
+ rich) as I take them to be, I presume that this experience is not
+ uncommon. I suppose that they are all being thrown out of cabs, all over
+ London. Still, as there are some people, virginal and remote from the
+ world, who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I will give a short
+ account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab ran into the side
+ of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab&mdash;that
+ one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged, will
+ gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that it is both
+ secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in these two
+ respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came to grief. But
+ it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it belongs to a
+ beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is pretending to be
+ richer than they are, and acting as if they were. It is comfortable, and
+ yet it is reckless; and that combination is the very soul of England. But
+ although I had always realised all these good qualities in a hansom cab, I
+ had not experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put it, all
+ the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits of a hansom cab
+ had been always made when it was the right way up. Let me, therefore,
+ explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom cab for the first and, I am
+ happy to believe, the last time. Polycrates threw one ring into the sea to
+ propitiate the Fates. I have thrown one hansom cab into the sea (if you
+ will excuse a rather violent metaphor) and the Fates are, I am quite sure,
+ propitiated. Though I am told they do not like to be told so.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one of the sloping
+ streets into the Strand, reading one of my own admirable articles with
+ continual pleasure, and still more continual surprise, when the horse fell
+ forward, scrambled a moment on the scraping stones, staggered to his feet
+ again, and went forward. The horses in my cabs often do this, and I have
+ learnt to enjoy my own articles at any angle of the vehicle. So I did not
+ see anything at all odd about the way the horse went on again. But I saw
+ it suddenly in the faces of all the people on the pavement. They were all
+ turned towards me, and they were all struck with fear suddenly, as with a
+ white flame out of the sky. And one man half ran out into the road with a
+ movement of the elbow as if warding off a blow, and tried to stop the
+ horse. Then I knew that the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse
+ was like a living thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly as they
+ seemed to me; many details I may have missed or mis-stated; many details
+ may have, so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road. I remember that
+ I once called one of my experiences narrated in this paper &ldquo;A Fragment of
+ Fact.&rdquo; This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact. No fact could possibly be
+ more fragmentary than the sort of fact that I expected to be at the bottom
+ of that street.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally found that
+ the converted do not understand their own religion. Thus I have always
+ urged in this paper that democracy has a deeper meaning than democrats
+ understand; that is, that common and popular things, proverbs, and
+ ordinary sayings always have something in them unrealised by most who
+ repeat them. Here is one. We have all heard about the man who is in
+ momentary danger, and who sees the whole of his life pass before him in a
+ moment. In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is obviously
+ a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident or a mortal
+ crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets he had ever taken to
+ Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever passed the brown bread and
+ butter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards the traffic of
+ the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth behind this phrase, as
+ there is behind all popular phrases. I did really have, in that short and
+ shrieking period, a rapid succession of a number of fundamental points of
+ view. I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as many seconds.
+ My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere men is more
+ shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded a state of mind
+ which is quite real, but for which no proper name has ever been found. The
+ ancients called it Stoicism, and I think it must be what some German
+ lunatics mean (if they mean anything) when they talk about Pessimism. It
+ was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that happens&mdash;as if one
+ had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously enough, came a very
+ strong contrary feeling&mdash;that things mattered very much indeed, and
+ yet that they were something more than tragic. It was a feeling, not that
+ life was unimportant, but that life was much too important ever to be
+ anything but life. I hope that this was Christianity. At any rate, it
+ occurred at the moment when we went crash into the omnibus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me, like
+ an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling out from underneath
+ it in attitudes so undignified that they must have added enormously to
+ that great cause to which the Anti-Puritan League and I have recently
+ dedicated ourselves. I mean the cause of the pleasures of the people. As
+ to my demeanour when I emerged, I have two confessions to make, and they
+ are both made merely in the interests of mental science. The first is that
+ whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the moment before the
+ collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got off with a cut or two
+ I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear. A man offered me a
+ newspaper or something that I had dropped. I can distinctly remember
+ consigning the paper to a state of irremediable spiritual ruin. I am very
+ sorry for this now, and I apologise both to the man and to the paper. I
+ have not the least idea what was the meaning of this unnatural anger; I
+ mention it as a psychological confession. It was immediately followed by
+ extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly jokes to the policeman that he
+ disgraced himself by continual laughter before all the little boys in the
+ street, who had hitherto taken him seriously.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention as a
+ curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain. At intervals of about
+ every three minutes I kept on reminding the policeman that I had not paid
+ the cabman, and that I hoped he would not lose his money. He said it would
+ be all right, and the man would appear. But it was not until about half an
+ hour afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a shock intolerable that
+ the man might conceivably have lost more than half a crown; that he had
+ been in danger as well as I. I had instinctively regarded the cabman as
+ something uplifted above accidents, a god. I immediately made inquiries,
+ and I am happy to say that they seemed to have been unnecessary.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more delicate
+ charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin, and neglect
+ the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I was once really
+ tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might have been dead. Some
+ admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross Hospital tied up my
+ small injury, and I went out again into the Strand. I felt upon me even a
+ kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something untried. So to open a
+ new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement and casting
+ about for some phrase of consolation that should not be either insolent or
+ weak, said at last, &ldquo;I think one can live through these great sorrows and
+ even be the better. What wears one is the little worries.&rdquo; &ldquo;That's quite
+ right, mum,&rdquo; answered the old woman with emphasis, &ldquo;and I ought to know,
+ seeing I've had ten of 'em.&rdquo; It is, perhaps, in this sense that it is most
+ true that little worries are most wearing. In its vaguer significance the
+ phrase, though it contains a truth, contains also some possibilities of
+ self-deception and error. People who have both small troubles and big ones
+ have the right to say that they find the small ones the most bitter; and
+ it is undoubtedly true that the back which is bowed under loads incredible
+ can feel a faint addition to those loads; a giant holding up the earth and
+ all its animal creation might still find the grasshopper a burden. But I
+ am afraid that the maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is
+ sometimes used or abused by people, because they have nothing but the very
+ smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the crumpled
+ rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity she would wear the
+ crown of thorns&mdash;if she had to. The gentleman may permit himself to
+ curse the dinner and tell himself that he would behave much better if it
+ were a mere matter of starvation. We need not deny that the grasshopper on
+ man's shoulder is a burden; but we need not pay much respect to the
+ gentleman who is always calling out that he would rather have an elephant
+ when he knows there are no elephants in the country. We may concede that a
+ straw may break the camel's back, but we like to know that it really is
+ the last straw and not the first.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right to grumble,
+ so long as they grumble about something else. It is a singular fact that
+ if they are sane they almost always do grumble about something else. To
+ talk quite reasonably about your own quite real wrongs is the quickest way
+ to go off your head. But people with great troubles talk about little
+ ones, and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very often has
+ his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly a very clear and
+ happy daily life then I think we are justified in asking that he shall not
+ make mountains out of molehills. I do no deny that molehills can sometimes
+ be important. Small annoyances have this evil about them, that they can be
+ more abrupt because they are more invisible; they cast no shadow before,
+ they have no atmosphere. No one ever had a mystical premonition that he
+ was going to tumble over a hassock. William III. died by falling over a
+ molehill; I do not suppose that with all his varied abilities he could
+ have managed to fall over a mountain. But when all this is allowed for, I
+ repeat that we may ask a happy man (not William III.) to put up with pure
+ inconveniences, and even make them part of his happiness. Of positive pain
+ or positive poverty I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable
+ accidental limitations that are always falling across our path&mdash;bad
+ weather, confinement to this or that house or room, failure of
+ appointments or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts,
+ finding unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse, finding
+ punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures to be drawn from
+ all these that I sing&mdash;I sing with confidence because I have recently
+ been experimenting in the poetic pleasures which arise from having to sit
+ in one chair with a sprained foot, with the only alternative course of
+ standing on one leg like a stork&mdash;a stork is a poetic simile;
+ therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if the thing itself
+ symbolise something other than isolation. If we wish to see what a house
+ is it must be a house in some uninhabited landscape. If we wish to depict
+ what a man really is we must depict a man alone in a desert or on a dark
+ sea sand. So long as he is a single figure he means all that humanity
+ means; so long as he is solitary he means human society; so long as he is
+ solitary he means sociability and comradeship. Add another figure and the
+ picture is less human&mdash;not more so. One is company, two is none. If
+ you wish to symbolise human building draw one dark tower on the horizon;
+ if you wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the sky. Indeed,
+ all through that strangely lit season which we call our day there is but
+ one star in the sky&mdash;a large, fierce star which we call the sun. One
+ sun is splendid; six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of Giotto is
+ sublime; a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row of white
+ posts. The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower; the poetry of
+ nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in following the
+ single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping the single star. And
+ so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find the poetry of all human anatomy
+ in standing on a single leg. To express complete and perfect leggishness
+ the leg must stand in sublime isolation, like the tower in the wilderness.
+ As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is that which stands most
+ alone.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity of some Doric
+ column. The students of architecture tell us that the only legitimate use
+ of a column is to support weight. This column of mine fulfils its
+ legitimate function. It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic
+ consistency, it may even improve by the process, and during these few days
+ that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness or dislocation of the
+ one leg may find compensation in the astonishing strength and classic
+ beauty of the other leg. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr. George
+ Meredith's novel might pass by at any moment, and seeing me in the
+ stork-like attitude would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more
+ literal exactitude, &ldquo;He has a leg.&rdquo; Notice how this famous literary phrase
+ supports my contention touching this isolation of any admirable thing.
+ Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect picture of
+ human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg. She delicately
+ glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive fact that he had
+ really two legs. Two legs were superfluous and irrelevant, a reflection,
+ and a confusion. Two legs would have confused Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson
+ like two Monuments in London. That having had one good leg he should have
+ another&mdash;this would be to use vain repetitions as the Gentiles do.
+ She would have been as much bewildered by him as if he had been a
+ centipede.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender of life,
+ all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity, all desolation has
+ for its real aim this separation of something so that it may be poignantly
+ and perfectly enjoyed. I feel grateful for the slight sprain which has
+ introduced this mysterious and fascinating division between one of my feet
+ and the other. The way to love anything is to realise that it might be
+ lost. In one of my feet I can feel how strong and splendid a foot is; in
+ the other I can realise how very much otherwise it might have been. The
+ moral of the thing is wholly exhilarating. This world and all our powers
+ in it are far more awful and beautiful than even we know until some
+ accident reminds us. If you wish to perceive that limitless felicity,
+ limit yourself if only for a moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully
+ and wonderfully God's image is made, stand on one leg. If you want to
+ realise the splendid vision of all visible things&mdash;wink the other
+ eye.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ VIII. The End of the World
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious town of
+ Besançon, which stands like a sort of peninsula in a horse-shoe of river.
+ You may learn from the guide books that it was the birthplace of Victor
+ Hugo, and that it is a military station with many forts, near the French
+ frontier. But you will not learn from guide books that the very tiles on
+ the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate colour than the
+ tiles of all the other towns of the world; that the tiles look like the
+ little clouds of some strange sunset, or like the lustrous scales of some
+ strange fish. They will not tell you that in this town the eye cannot rest
+ on anything without finding it in some way attractive and even elvish, a
+ carved face at a street corner, a gleam of green fields through a stunted
+ arch, or some unexpected colour for the enamel of a spire or dome.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours so simple
+ and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together and make a fairy
+ tale. I sat down for a little outside a café with a row of little toy
+ trees in front of it, and presently the driver of a fly (as we should call
+ it) came to the same place. He was one of those very large and dark
+ Frenchmen, a type not common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian
+ Frenchman, huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was a
+ sort of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but
+ English. And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two
+ nations. For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like a
+ huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets, this Frenchman
+ was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise&mdash;as if pleasure were a
+ kind of pagan religion. After some talk which was full of the admirable
+ civility and equality of French civilisation, he suggested without either
+ eagerness or embarrassment that he should take me in his fly for an hour's
+ ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was growing late I
+ consented; for there was one long white road under an archway and round a
+ hill that dragged me like a long white cord. We drove through the strong,
+ squat gateway that was made by Romans, and I remember the coincidence like
+ a sort of omen that as we passed out of the city I heard simultaneously
+ the three sounds which are the trinity of France. They make what some poet
+ calls &ldquo;a tangled trinity,&rdquo; and I am not going to disentangle it. Whatever
+ those three things mean, how or why they co-exist; whether they can be
+ reconciled or perhaps are reconciled already; the three sounds I heard
+ then by an accident all at once make up the French mystery. For the brass
+ band in the Casino gardens behind me was playing with a sort of passionate
+ levity some ramping tune from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was
+ going on I heard also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible
+ loyalties and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+ fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having left
+ France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world. And, indeed,
+ there was something in the landscape wild enough to encourage such a
+ fancy. I have seen perhaps higher mountains, but I have never seen higher
+ rocks; I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and sensational,
+ splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of churches, cliffs that
+ fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from heaven. There was also a
+ quality in the ride which was not only astonishing, but rather
+ bewildering; a quality which many must have noticed if they have driven or
+ ridden rapidly up mountain roads. I mean a sense of gigantic gyration, as
+ of the whole earth turning about one's head. It is quite inadequate to say
+ that the hills rose and fell like enormous waves. Rather the hills seemed
+ to turn about me like the enormous sails of a windmill, a vast wheel of
+ monstrous archangelic wings. As we drove on and up into the gathering
+ purple of the sunset this dizziness increased, confounding things above
+ with things below. Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like
+ a roof. I stared at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a
+ wooded plain. Below me steeps of green swept down to the river. I stared
+ at them until I fancied that they swept up to the sky. The purple
+ darkened, night drew nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer the chasms and
+ draw higher the spires of that nightmare landscape. Above me in the
+ twilight was the huge black hulk of the driver, and his broad, blank back
+ was as mysterious as the back of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I
+ was growing too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things. I
+ called out to the driver in French, &ldquo;Where are you taking me?&rdquo; and it is a
+ literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same language without
+ turning around, &ldquo;To the end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark, steep ways, until I
+ saw lights under a low roof of little trees and two children, one oddly
+ beautiful, playing at ball. Then we found ourselves filling up the strict
+ main street of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was written
+ in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE&mdash;the end of the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place. I ordered
+ bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but had no name. On the
+ other side of the road was a little plain church with a cross on top of it
+ and a cock on top of the cross. This seemed to me a very good end of the
+ world; if the story of the world ended here it ended well. Then I wondered
+ whether I myself should really be content to end here, where most
+ certainly there were the best things of Christendom&mdash;a church and
+ children's games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+ But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me, and at
+ last I started up.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Are you not satisfied?&rdquo; asked my companion. &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I am not
+ satisfied even at the end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then, after a silence, I said, &ldquo;Because you see there are two ends of the
+ world. And this is the wrong end of the world; at least the wrong one for
+ me. This is the French end of the world. I want the other end of the
+ world. Drive me to the other end of the world.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The other end of the world?&rdquo; he asked. &ldquo;Where is that?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is in Walham Green,&rdquo; I whispered hoarsely. &ldquo;You see it on the London
+ omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.' Oh, I know how good this is; I
+ love your vineyards and your free peasantry, but I want the English end of
+ the world. I love you like a brother, but I want an English cabman, who
+ will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles stir my blood,
+ but I want to see a London policeman. Take, oh, take me to see a London
+ policeman.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset, and I could
+ not tell whether he understood or not. I got back into his carriage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You will understand,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;if ever you are an exile even for
+ pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country, as a countryman
+ of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is rather too long a drive to
+ the English end of the world, we may as well drive back to Besançon.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept for Walham
+ Green.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ IX. In the Place de La Bastille
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ On the first of May I was sitting outside a café in the Place de la
+ Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with a capering
+ figure, which stands in the place where the people destroyed a prison and
+ ended an age. The thing is a curious example of how symbolic is the great
+ part of human history. As a matter of mere material fact, the Bastille
+ when it was taken was not a horrible prison; it was hardly a prison at
+ all. But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a sure instinct for
+ symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance, at the last General Election, or
+ for President Kruger's hat in the election before; their poetic sense is
+ perfect. The Chinaman with his pigtail is not an idle flippancy. He does
+ typify with a compact precision exactly the thing the people resent in
+ African policy, the alien and grotesque nature of the power of wealth, the
+ fact that money has no roots, that it is not a natural and familiar power,
+ but a sort of airy and evil magic calling monsters from the ends of the
+ earth. The people hate the mine owner who can bring a Chinaman flying
+ across the sea, exactly as the people hated the wizard who could fetch a
+ flying dragon through the air. It was the same with Mr. Kruger's hat. His
+ hat (that admirable hat) was not merely a joke. It did symbolise, and
+ symbolise extremely well, the exact thing which our people at that moment
+ regarded with impatience and venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican
+ simplicity, the unbeautiful dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier
+ truisms of political morality. No; the people are sometimes wrong on the
+ practical side of politics; they are never wrong on the artistic side.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+ was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform. It was an
+ iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image. The people saw the
+ building like a giant looking at them with a score of eyes, and they
+ struck at it as at a carved fact. For of all the shapes in which that
+ immense illusion called materialism can terrify the soul, perhaps the most
+ oppressive are big buildings. Man feels like a fly, an accident, in the
+ thing he has himself made. It requires a violent effort of the spirit to
+ remember that man made this confounding thing and man could unmake it.
+ Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street taking and
+ destroying a huge public building has a spiritual, a ritual meaning far
+ beyond its immediate political results. It is a religious service. If, for
+ instance, the Socialists were numerous or courageous enough to capture and
+ smash up the Bank of England, you might argue for ever about the inutility
+ of the act, and how it really did not touch the root of the economic
+ problem in the correct manner. But mankind would never forget it. It would
+ change the world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Architecture is a very good test of the true strength of a society, for
+ the most valuable things in a human state are the irrevocable things&mdash;marriage,
+ for instance. And architecture approaches nearer than any other art to
+ being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get rid of. You can turn
+ a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a nuisance to turn that
+ Roman cathedral with its face to the wall. You can tear a poem to pieces;
+ it is only in moments of very sincere emotion that you tear a town-hall to
+ pieces. A building is akin to dogma; it is insolent, like a dogma. Whether
+ or no it is permanent, it claims permanence like a dogma. People ask why
+ we have no typical architecture of the modern world, like impressionism in
+ painting. Surely it is obviously because we have not enough dogmas; we
+ cannot bear to see anything in the sky that is solid and enduring,
+ anything in the sky that does not change like the clouds of the sky. But
+ along with this decision which is involved in creating a building, there
+ goes a quite similar decision in the more delightful task of smashing one.
+ The two of necessity go together. In few places have so many fine public
+ buildings been set up as here in Paris, and in few places have so many
+ been destroyed. When people have finally got into the horrible habit of
+ preserving buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them. And
+ in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few are pulled
+ down.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty and
+ Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like so many
+ such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and silent line of
+ horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and prosaic enough, but
+ the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their helmets; and their
+ helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans. I had seen them by
+ twos and threes often enough before. I had seen plenty of them in pictures
+ toiling through the snows of Friedland or roaring round the squares at
+ Waterloo. But now they came file after file, like an invasion, and
+ something in their numbers, or in the evening light that lit up their
+ faces and their crests, or something in the reverie into which they broke,
+ made me inclined to spring to my feet and cry out, &ldquo;The French soldiers!&rdquo;
+ There were the little men with the brown faces that had so often ridden
+ through the capitals of Europe as coolly as they now rode through their
+ own. And when I looked across the square I saw that the two other corners
+ were choked with blue and red; held by little groups of infantry. The city
+ was garrisoned as against a revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker. He said
+ he was not going to &ldquo;Chomer.&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Qu'est-ce que c'est que le chome?&rdquo;
+ He said, &ldquo;Ils ne veulent pas travailler.&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;Ni moi non plus,&rdquo; and
+ he thought I was a class-conscious collectivist proletarian. The whole
+ thing was curious, and the true moral of it one not easy for us, as a
+ nation, to grasp, because our own faults are so deeply and dangerously in
+ the other direction. To me, as an Englishman (personally steeped in the
+ English optimism and the English dislike of severity), the whole thing
+ seemed a fuss about nothing. It looked like turning out one of the best
+ armies in Europe against ordinary people walking about the street. The
+ cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less harmlessly. But, of course,
+ it is hard to say how far in such criticisms one is assuming the French
+ populace to be (what it is not) as docile as the English. But the deeper
+ truth of the matter tingled, so to speak, through the whole noisy night.
+ This people has a natural faculty for feeling itself on the eve of
+ something&mdash;of the Bartholomew or the Revolution or the Commune or the
+ Day of Judgment. It is this sense of crisis that makes France eternally
+ young. It is perpetually pulling down and building up, as it pulled down
+ the prison and put up the column in the Place de La Bastille. France has
+ always been at the point of dissolution. She has found the only method of
+ immortality. She dies daily.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ X. On Lying in Bed
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience if only
+ one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling. This,
+ however, is not generally a part of the domestic apparatus on the
+ premises. I think myself that the thing might be managed with several
+ pails of Aspinall and a broom. Only if one worked in a really sweeping and
+ masterly way, and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip down
+ again on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some strange
+ fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages. I am afraid it would be
+ necessary to stick to black and white in this form of artistic
+ composition. To that purpose, indeed, the white ceiling would be of the
+ greatest possible use; in fact, it is the only use I think of a white
+ ceiling being put to.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+ discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces in a
+ modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+ allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, &ldquo;Il me faut des géants.&rdquo;
+ But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern rooms such
+ as we all live in I was continually disappointed. I found an endless
+ pattern and complication of small objects hung like a curtain of fine
+ links between me and my desire. I examined the walls; I found them to my
+ surprise to be already covered with wallpaper, and I found the wallpaper
+ to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing a ridiculous
+ resemblance to each other. I could not understand why one arbitrary symbol
+ (a symbol apparently entirely devoid of any religious or philosophical
+ significance) should thus be sprinkled all over my nice walls like a sort
+ of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to wallpapers, I think, when it
+ says, &ldquo;Use not vain repetitions, as the Gentiles do.&rdquo; I found the Turkey
+ carpet a mass of unmeaning colours, rather like the Turkish Empire, or
+ like the sweetmeat called Turkish Delight. I do not exactly know what
+ Turkish Delight really is; but I suppose it is Macedonian Massacres.
+ Everywhere that I went forlornly, with my pencil or my paint brush, I
+ found that others had unaccountably been before me, spoiling the walls,
+ the curtains, and the furniture with their childish and barbaric designs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this occasion
+ when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying on my back
+ in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my vision, that
+ breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition of Paradise,
+ since it means purity and also means freedom. But alas! like all heavens,
+ now that it is seen it is found to be unattainable; it looks more austere
+ and more distant than the blue sky outside the window. For my proposal to
+ paint on it with the bristly end of a broom has been discouraged&mdash;never
+ mind by whom; by a person debarred from all political rights&mdash;and
+ even my minor proposal to put the other end of the broom into the kitchen
+ fire and turn it to charcoal has not been conceded. Yet I am certain that
+ it was from persons in my position that all the original inspiration came
+ for covering the ceilings of palaces and cathedrals with a riot of fallen
+ angels or victorious gods. I am sure that it was only because Michael
+ Angelo was engaged in the ancient and honourable occupation of lying in
+ bed that he ever realized how the roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made
+ into an awful imitation of a divine drama that could only be acted in the
+ heavens.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed is
+ hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity that seem to
+ mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing and dangerous than
+ the exultation of very small and secondary matters of conduct at the
+ expense of very great and primary ones, at the expense of eternal ties and
+ tragic human morality. If there is one thing worse than the modern
+ weakening of major morals, it is the modern strengthening of minor morals.
+ Thus it is considered more withering to accuse a man of bad taste than of
+ bad ethics. Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays, for cleanliness
+ is made essential and godliness is regarded as an offence. A playwright
+ can attack the institution of marriage so long as he does not misrepresent
+ the manners of society, and I have met Ibsenite pessimists who thought it
+ wrong to take beer but right to take prussic acid. Especially this is so
+ in matters of hygiene; notably such matters as lying in bed. Instead of
+ being regarded, as it ought to be, as a matter of personal convenience and
+ adjustment, it has come to be regarded by many as if it were a part of
+ essential morals to get up early in the morning. It is upon the whole part
+ of practical wisdom; but there is nothing good about it or bad about its
+ opposite.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get up
+ the night before. It is the great peril of our society that all its
+ mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows more fickle. A man's
+ minor actions and arrangements ought to be free, flexible, creative; the
+ things that should be unchangeable are his principles, his ideals. But
+ with us the reverse is true; our views change constantly; but our lunch
+ does not change. Now, I should like men to have strong and rooted
+ conceptions, but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes in the
+ garden, sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the top of a
+ tree. Let them argue from the same first principles, but let them do it in
+ a bed, or a boat, or a balloon. This alarming growth of good habits really
+ means a too great emphasis on those virtues which mere custom can ensure,
+ it means too little emphasis on those virtues which custom can never quite
+ ensure, sudden and splendid virtues of inspired pity or of inspired
+ candour. If ever that abrupt appeal is made to us we may fail. A man can
+ get use to getting up at five o'clock in the morning. A man cannot very
+ well get used to being burnt for his opinions; the first experiment is
+ commonly fatal. Let us pay a little more attention to these possibilities
+ of the heroic and unexpected. I dare say that when I get out of this bed I
+ shall do some deed of an almost terrible virtue.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+ caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed (like
+ journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done in bed (as,
+ for example, the professional harpooners of whales), it is obvious that
+ the indulgence must be very occasional. But that is not the caution I
+ mean. The caution is this: if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it without
+ any reason or justification at all. I do not speak, of course, of the
+ seriously sick. But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it without a
+ rag of excuse; then he will get up a healthy man. If he does it for some
+ secondary hygienic reason, if he has some scientific explanation, he may
+ get up a hypochondriac.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XI. The Twelve Men
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I was,
+ so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people. The
+ snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden and
+ arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea, and my
+ name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were also summoned
+ and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions of men, all of
+ whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began with a C.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping alphabetical
+ way. At one official blow, so to speak, Battersea is denuded of all its
+ C's, and left to get on as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A
+ Cumberpatch is missing from one street&mdash;a Chizzolpop from another&mdash;three
+ Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children are crying out for
+ an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street corner is weeping for her
+ Coffintop, and will not be comforted. We settle down with a rollicking
+ ease into our seats (for we are a bold, devil-may-care race, the C's of
+ Battersea), and an oath is administered to us in a totally inaudible
+ manner by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his second
+ childhood. We understand, however, that we are to well and truly try the
+ case between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the bar,
+ neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner were, perhaps,
+ coming to an amicable understanding in some adjoining public house, the
+ prisoner's head appears above the barrier of the dock; he is accused of
+ stealing bicycles, and he is the living image of a great friend of mine.
+ We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles. We do well and
+ truly try the case between the King and the prisoner in the affair of the
+ bicycles. And we come to the conclusion, after a brief but reasonable
+ discussion, that the King is not in any way implicated. Then we pass on to
+ a woman who neglected her children, and who looks as if somebody or
+ something had neglected her. And I am one of those who fancy that
+ something had.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All the time that the eye took in these light appearances and the brain
+ passed these light criticisms, there was in the heart a barbaric pity and
+ fear which men have never been able to utter from the beginning, but which
+ is the power behind half the poems of the world. The mood cannot even
+ adequately be suggested, except faintly by this statement that tragedy is
+ the highest expression of the infinite value of human life. Never had I
+ stood so close to pain; and never so far away from pessimism. Ordinarily,
+ I should not have spoken of these dark emotions at all, for speech about
+ them is too difficult; but I mention them now for a specific and
+ particular reason to the statement of which I will proceed at once. I
+ speak these feelings because out of the furnace of them there came a
+ curious realisation of a political or social truth. I saw with a queer and
+ indescribable kind of clearness what a jury really is, and why we must
+ never let it go.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+ specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers because
+ they fight better, trained singers because they sing better, trained
+ dancers because they dance better, specially instructed laughers because
+ they laugh better, and so on and so on. The principle has been applied to
+ law and politics by innumerable modern writers. Many Fabians have insisted
+ that a greater part of our political work should be performed by experts.
+ Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should be altogether
+ supplanted by the trained Judge.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable, I do not
+ know that there would be any fault to find with this. But the true result
+ of all experience and the true foundation of all religion is this. That
+ the four or five things that it is most practically essential that a man
+ should know, are all of them what people call paradoxes. That is to say,
+ that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths, yet we
+ cannot easily state them in words without being guilty of seeming verbal
+ contradictions. One of them, for instance, is the unimpeachable platitude
+ that the man who finds most pleasure for himself is often the man who
+ least hunts for it. Another is the paradox of courage; the fact that the
+ way to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it. Whoever is
+ careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful cliff above the tide
+ may save his bones by that carelessness. Whoever will lose his life, the
+ same shall save it; an entirely practical and prosaic statement.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught to every
+ infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following: That the more a
+ man looks at a thing, the less he can see it, and the more a man learns a
+ thing the less he knows it. The Fabian argument of the expert, that the
+ man who is trained should be the man who is trusted would be absolutely
+ unanswerable if it were really true that a man who studied a thing and
+ practiced it every day went on seeing more and more of its significance.
+ But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its significance. In
+ the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we are continually
+ goading ourselves into gratitude and humility, seeing less and less of the
+ significance of the sky or the stones.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of men.
+ But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can to other
+ terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun. And the horrible
+ thing about all legal officials, even the best, about all judges,
+ magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen, is not that they are
+ wicked (some of them are good), not that they are stupid (several of them
+ are quite intelligent), it is simply that they have got used to it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they see is the
+ usual man in the usual place. They do not see the awful court of judgment;
+ they only see their own workshop. Therefore, the instinct of Christian
+ civilisation has most wisely declared that into their judgments there
+ shall upon every occasion be infused fresh blood and fresh thoughts from
+ the streets. Men shall come in who can see the court and the crowd, and
+ coarse faces of the policeman and the professional criminals, the wasted
+ faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the gesticulating counsel, and
+ see it all as one sees a new picture or a play hitherto unvisited.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided, that determining
+ the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too important to be trusted to
+ trained men. It wishes for light upon that awful matter, it asks men who
+ know no more law than I know, but who can feel the things that I felt in
+ the jury box. When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system
+ discovered, or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when
+ it wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve of the
+ ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I remember right,
+ by the Founder of Christianity.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XII. The Wind and the Trees
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf about
+ the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks and roars in
+ something that is at once exultation and agony. I feel, in fact, as if I
+ were actually sitting at the bottom of the sea among mere anchors and
+ ropes, while over my head and over the green twilight of water sounded the
+ everlasting rush of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of
+ tremendous ships. The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck them
+ root and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet another
+ desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy, the trees are
+ straining and tearing and lashing as if they were a tribe of dragons each
+ tied by the tail.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible and violent
+ witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind. I remember a little boy of
+ my acquaintance who was once walking in Battersea Park under just such
+ torn skies and tossing trees. He did not like the wind at all; it blew in
+ his face too much; it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his hat, of
+ which he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about four. After
+ complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said at last to his
+ mother, &ldquo;Well, why don't you take away the trees, and then it wouldn't
+ wind.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake. Any one
+ looking for the first time at the trees might fancy that they were indeed
+ vast and titanic fans, which by their mere waving agitated the air around
+ them for miles. Nothing, I say, could be more human and excusable than the
+ belief that it is the trees which make the wind. Indeed, the belief is so
+ human and excusable that it is, as a matter of fact, the belief of about
+ ninety-nine out of a hundred of the philosophers, reformers, sociologists,
+ and politicians of the great age in which we live. My small friend was, in
+ fact, very like the principal modern thinkers; only much nicer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour of
+ inventing, the trees stand for all visible things and the wind for the
+ invisible. The wind is the spirit which bloweth where it listeth; the
+ trees are the material things of the world which are blown where the
+ spirit lists. The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees are
+ cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind because the
+ trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad. We only know that there is a
+ real revolution because all the chimney-pots go mad on the whole skyline
+ of the city.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more ragged and rises
+ into fantastic crests or tattered tails, so the human city rises under the
+ wind of the spirit into toppling temples or sudden spires. No man has ever
+ seen a revolution. Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood pouring down
+ the gutters, the guillotine lifted higher than the throne, a prison in
+ ruins, a people in arms&mdash;these things are not revolution, but the
+ results of revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind. So, also,
+ you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that there is a revolution.
+ And there never has been in the history of the world a real revolution,
+ brutally active and decisive, which was not preceded by unrest and new
+ dogma in the reign of invisible things. All revolutions began by being
+ abstract. Most revolutions began by being quite pedantically abstract.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved. So
+ there must always be a battle in the sky before there is a battle on the
+ earth. Since it is lawful to pray for the coming of the kingdom, it is
+ lawful also to pray for the coming of the revolution that shall restore
+ the kingdom. It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the trees.
+ It is lawful to pray &ldquo;Thine anger come on earth as it is in Heaven.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees. The great
+ human heresy is that the trees move the wind. When people begin to say
+ that the material circumstances have alone created the moral
+ circumstances, then they have prevented all possibility of serious change.
+ For if my circumstances have made me wholly stupid, how can I be certain
+ even that I am right in altering those circumstances?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment is simply
+ smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts&mdash;including that one.
+ To treat the human mind as having an ultimate authority is necessary to
+ any kind of thinking, even free thinking. And nothing will ever be
+ reformed in this age or country unless we realise that the moral fact
+ comes first.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard in
+ debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists and
+ total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty; the former
+ say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their either of them
+ being content with such simple physical explanations. Surely it is obvious
+ that the thing which among the English proletariat leads to poverty is the
+ same as the thing which leads to drink; the absence of strong civic
+ dignity, the absence of an instinct that resists degradation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long ago
+ cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+ discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman. The
+ Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has this quality,
+ which may strictly be called &ldquo;hand to mouth,&rdquo; because under its influence
+ a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth, instead of seeking (as it
+ sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose. And a man who says that the
+ English inequality in land is due only to economic causes, or that the
+ drunkenness of England is due only to economic causes, is saying something
+ so absurd that he cannot really have thought what he was saying.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under the
+ influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the economic
+ theory of history. We have people who represent that all great historic
+ motives were economic, and then have to howl at the top of their voices in
+ order to induce the modern democracy to act on economic motives. The
+ extreme Marxian politicians in England exhibit themselves as a small,
+ heroic minority, trying vainly to induce the world to do what, according
+ to their theory, the world always does. The truth is, of course, that
+ there will be a social revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be
+ purely economic. You can never have a revolution in order to establish a
+ democracy. You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight rain have
+ ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars in a clear sunlight. The
+ tossing of the trees and the blowing of the wind have ceased
+ simultaneously. So I suppose there are still modern philosophers who will
+ maintain that the trees make the wind.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XIII. The Dickensian
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw hat;
+ with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers, but with a
+ quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes. He was gazing with a rather
+ gloomy interest at the cluster, one might almost say the tangle, of small
+ shipping which grew thicker as our little pleasure boat crawled up into
+ Yarmouth Harbour. A boat entering this harbour, as every one knows, does
+ not enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps round at the
+ back like a traitor taking the town in the rear. The passage of the river
+ seems almost too narrow for traffic, and in consequence the bigger ships
+ look colossal. As we passed under a timber ship from Norway, which seemed
+ to block up the heavens like a cathedral, the man in a straw hat pointed
+ to an odd wooden figurehead carved like a woman, and said, like one
+ continuing a conversation, &ldquo;Now, why have they left off having them. They
+ didn't do any one any harm?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous; but
+ I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note. There has been
+ something in our most recent civilisation which is mysteriously hostile to
+ such healthy and humane symbols.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty,&rdquo; he continued,
+ exactly echoing my thoughts. &ldquo;I believe they broke up all the jolly old
+ figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Like Mr. Quilp,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;when he battered the wooden Admiral with
+ the poker.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time he stood
+ erect and stared at me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you come to Yarmouth for that?&rdquo; he asked.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;For what?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;For Dickens,&rdquo; he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I answered; &ldquo;I come for fun, though that is much the same thing.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I always come,&rdquo; he answered quietly, &ldquo;to find Peggotty's boat. It isn't
+ here.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred to the people who
+ live there. I myself have never come to the end of the list of Batterseas.
+ But there are two to the stranger and tourist; the poor part, which is
+ dignified, and the prosperous part, which is savagely vulgar. My new
+ friend haunted the first of these like a ghost; to the latter he would
+ only distantly allude.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The place is very much spoilt now... trippers, you know,&rdquo; he would say,
+ not at all scornfully, but simply sadly. That was the nearest he would go
+ to an admission of the monstrous watering place that lay along the front,
+ outblazing the sun, and more deafening than the sea. But behind&mdash;out
+ of earshot of this uproar&mdash;there are lanes so narrow that they seem
+ like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose. There are squares so
+ brimful of silence that to plunge into one of them is like plunging into a
+ pool. In these places the man and I paced up and down talking about
+ Dickens, or, rather, doing what all true Dickensians do, telling each
+ other verbatim long passages which both of us knew quite well already. We
+ were really in the atmosphere of the older England. Fishermen passed us
+ who might well have been characters like Peggotty; we went into a musty
+ curiosity shop and bought pipe-stoppers carved into figures from Pickwick.
+ The evening was settling down between all the buildings with that slow
+ gold that seems to soak everything when we went into the church.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured windows
+ which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the passionate
+ heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts. At length I
+ said to my companion:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant for the angel
+ at the sepulchre.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I daresay,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;What is there odd about that?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After a pause I said, &ldquo;Do you remember what the angel at the sepulchre
+ said?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not particularly,&rdquo; he answered; &ldquo;but where are you off to in such a
+ hurry?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the fishermen's
+ almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring indignantly where I was
+ going.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;to put pennies in automatic machines on the beach.
+ I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going to have my photograph
+ taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer out of its original bottle. I will
+ buy some picture postcards. I do want a boat. I am ready to listen to a
+ concertina, and but for the defects of my education should be ready to
+ play it. I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is, if the donkey is
+ willing. I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was commanded me by the
+ angel in the stained-glass window.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I really think,&rdquo; said the Dickensian, &ldquo;that I had better put you in
+ charge of your relations.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sir,&rdquo; I answered, &ldquo;there are certain writers to whom humanity owes much,
+ whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective a type that we
+ do well to link it with certain quaint places or certain perishing
+ associations. It would not be unnatural to look for the spirit of Horace
+ Walpole at Strawberry Hill, or even for the shade of Thackeray in Old
+ Kensington. But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for Dickens
+ is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward; he might
+ look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury, but he would love to
+ look at them. He might lash our democracy, but it would be because, like a
+ democrat, he asked much from it. We will not have all his books bound up
+ under the title of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather we will have them all
+ bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.' Wherever humanity is he
+ would have us face it and make something of it, swallow it with a holy
+ cannibalism, and assimilate it with the digestion of a giant. We must take
+ these trippers as he would have taken them, and tear out of them their
+ tragedy and their farce. Do you remember now what the angel said at the
+ sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the living among the dead? He is not here; he is
+ risen.'&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands, which
+ were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite desperate
+ democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory, flung far
+ over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic firelight of
+ Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure looked at once
+ grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell. I heard a little
+ girl (who was being throttled by another little girl) say by way of
+ self-vindication, &ldquo;My sister-in-law 'as got four rings aside her weddin'
+ ring!&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees and the
+ secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world moving under the
+ violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor merely because I happened
+ to be writing the article in a wood. Nevertheless, now that I return to
+ Fleet Street (which seems to me, I confess, much better and more poetical
+ than all the wild woods in the world), I am strangely haunted by this
+ accidental comparison. The people's figures seem a forest and their soul a
+ wind. All the human personalities which speak or signal to me seem to have
+ this fantastic character of the fringe of the forest against the sky. That
+ man that talks to me, what is he but an articulate tree? That driver of a
+ van who waves his hands wildly at me to tell me to get out of the way,
+ what is he but a bunch of branches stirred and swayed by a spiritual wind,
+ a sylvan object that I can continue to contemplate with calm? That
+ policeman who lifts his hand to warn three omnibuses of the peril that
+ they run in encountering my person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a
+ moment with that blast of human law which is a thing stronger than
+ anarchy? Gradually this impression of the woods wears off. But this
+ black-and-white contrast between the visible and invisible, this deep
+ sense that the one essential belief is belief in the invisible as against
+ the visible, is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind.
+ Exactly at the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is,
+ most bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet, on
+ which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words: &ldquo;Should
+ Shop Assistants Marry?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When I saw those words everything might just as well have turned upside
+ down. The men in Fleet Street might have been walking about on their
+ hands. The cross of St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside
+ down. For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country; I
+ have come into the country where men do definitely believe that the waving
+ of the trees makes the wind. That is to say, they believe that the
+ material circumstances, however black and twisted, are more important than
+ the spiritual realities, however powerful and pure. &ldquo;Should Shop
+ Assistants Marry?&rdquo; I am puzzled to think what some periods and schools of
+ human history would have made of such a question. The ascetics of the East
+ or of some periods of the early Church would have thought that the
+ question meant, &ldquo;Are not shop assistants too saintly, too much of another
+ world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?&rdquo; But I suppose that is not
+ what the purple poster means. In some pagan cities it might have meant,
+ &ldquo;Shall slaves so vile as shop assistants even be allowed to propagate
+ their abject race?&rdquo; But I suppose that is not what the purple poster
+ meant. We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what it does mean. It
+ does really mean that a section of the human race is asking whether the
+ primary relations of the two human sexes are particularly good for modern
+ shops. The human race is asking whether Adam and Eve are entirely suitable
+ for Marshall and Snelgrove. If this is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine
+ what would be. We ask whether the universal institution will improve our
+ (please God) temporary institution. Yet I have known many such questions.
+ For instance, I have known a man ask seriously, &ldquo;Does Democracy help the
+ Empire?&rdquo; Which is like saying, &ldquo;Is art favourable to frescoes?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I say that there are many such questions asked. But if the world ever runs
+ short of them, I can suggest a large number of questions of precisely the
+ same kind, based on precisely the same principle.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do Feet Improve Boots?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Is Bread Better when Eaten?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Should
+ Hats have Heads in them?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do People Spoil a Town?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do Walls
+ Ruin Wall-papers?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Should Neckties enclose Necks?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Do Hands
+ Hurt Walking-sticks?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Does Burning Destroy Firewood?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Is
+ Cleanliness Good for Soap?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Can Cricket Really Improve
+ Cricket-bats?&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Shall We Take Brides with our Wedding Rings?&rdquo; and a
+ hundred others.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport or in
+ intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from the purple
+ poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by half of the earnest
+ economists of our times. All the questions they ask are of this character;
+ they are all tinged with this same initial absurdity. They do not ask if
+ the means is suited to the end; they all ask (with profound and
+ penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited to the means. They do not ask
+ whether the tail suits the dog. They all ask whether a dog is (by the
+ highest artistic canons) the most ornamental appendage that can be put at
+ the end of a tail. In short, instead of asking whether our modern
+ arrangements, our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete
+ institutions are suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy
+ human life, they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+ at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments; and then they
+ only ask whether that healthy human life is suited to our streets and
+ trades. Perfection may be attainable or unattainable as an end. It may or
+ may not be possible to talk of imperfection as a means to perfection. But
+ surely it passes toleration to talk of perfection as a means to
+ imperfection. The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream. But
+ surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem is a reality on
+ the road to Birmingham.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret of the
+ modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought to be simple
+ enough. A really human human being would always put the spiritual things
+ first. A walking and speaking statue of God finds himself at one
+ particular moment employed as a shop assistant. He has in himself a power
+ of terrible love, a promise of paternity, a thirst for some loyalty that
+ shall unify life, and in the ordinary course of things he asks himself,
+ &ldquo;How far do the existing conditions of those assisting in shops fit in
+ with my evident and epic destiny in the matter of love and marriage?&rdquo; But
+ here, as I have said, comes in the quiet and crushing power of modern
+ materialism. It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he would otherwise
+ do. By perpetually talking about environment and visible things, by
+ perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity, painting and
+ keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron machinery and merciless
+ engines, of rails of steel, and of towers of stone, modern materialism at
+ last produces this tremendous impression in which the truth is stated
+ upside down. At last the result is achieved. The man does not say as he
+ ought to have said, &ldquo;Should married men endure being modern shop
+ assistants?&rdquo; The man says, &ldquo;Should shop assistants marry?&rdquo; Triumph has
+ completed the immense illusion of materialism. The slave does not say,
+ &ldquo;Are these chains worthy of me?&rdquo; The slave says scientifically and
+ contentedly, &ldquo;Am I even worthy of these chains?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XV. What I Found in My Pocket
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have made the Empire
+ what it is&mdash;a man in an astracan coat, with an astracan moustache&mdash;a
+ tight, black, curly moustache. Whether he put on the moustache with the
+ coat or whether his Napoleonic will enabled him not only to grow a
+ moustache in the usual place, but also to grow little moustaches all over
+ his clothes, I do not know. I only remember that he said to me the
+ following words: &ldquo;A man can't get on nowadays by hanging about with his
+ hands in his pockets.&rdquo; I made reply with the quite obvious flippancy that
+ perhaps a man got on by having his hands in other people's pockets;
+ whereupon he began to argue about Moral Evolution, so I suppose what I
+ said had some truth in it. But the incident now comes back to me, and
+ connects itself with another incident&mdash;if you can call it an incident&mdash;which
+ happened to me only the other day.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+ some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+ reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I had at
+ least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief; I had a
+ complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should find
+ there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a tidy
+ person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+ possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+ them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything slips
+ into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell. I suppose
+ that the things that I have dropped into my pockets are still there; the
+ same presumption applies to the things that I have dropped into the sea.
+ But I regard the riches stored in both these bottomless chasms with the
+ same reverent ignorance. They tell us that on the last day the sea will
+ give up its dead; and I suppose that on the same occasion long strings of
+ extraordinary things will come running out of my pockets. But I have quite
+ forgotten what any of them are; and there is really nothing (excepting the
+ money) that I shall be at all surprised at finding among them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence. I here only wish
+ briefly to recall the special, extraordinary, and hitherto unprecedented
+ circumstances which led me in cold blood, and being of sound mind, to turn
+ out my pockets. I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a rather
+ long journey. The time was towards evening, but it might have been
+ anything, for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade was
+ painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting sheet of quite
+ colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers. I had not even a pencil and
+ a scrap of paper with which to write a religious epic. There were no
+ advertisements on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could have
+ plunged into the study, for any collection of printed words is quite
+ enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity. When I find
+ myself opposite the words &ldquo;Sunlight Soap&rdquo; I can exhaust all the aspects of
+ Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer poetry before I go on to the less
+ congenial subject of soap. But there was no printed word or picture
+ anywhere; there was nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank
+ wet without. Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can be,
+ uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats, and began
+ thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood. Just as I had begun to
+ realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ was a carpenter, rather than a
+ bricklayer, or a baker, or anything else, I suddenly started upright, and
+ remembered my pockets. I was carrying about with me an unknown treasury. I
+ had a British Museum and a South Kensington collection of unknown curios
+ hung all over me in different places. I began to take the things out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of Battersea tram
+ tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase. They shook down in
+ showers like confetti. Primarily, of course, they touched my patriotic
+ emotions, and brought tears to my eyes; also they provided me with the
+ printed matter I required, for I found on the back of them some short but
+ striking little scientific essays about some kind of pill. Comparatively
+ speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might be regarded as a
+ small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my railway journey
+ continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a few months longer, I
+ could imagine myself throwing myself into the controversial aspects of the
+ pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro and con upon the data furnished
+ to me. But after all it was the symbolic quality of the tickets that moved
+ me most. For as certainly as the cross of St. George means English
+ patriotism, those scraps of paper meant all that municipal patriotism
+ which is now, perhaps, the greatest hope of England.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife, I need
+ hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral meditations all to
+ itself. A knife typifies one of the most primary of those practical
+ origins upon which as upon low, thick pillows all our human civilisation
+ reposes. Metals, the mystery of the thing called iron and of the thing
+ called steel, led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream. I saw into the
+ intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among all the common
+ stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent battle, in which
+ stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered against something
+ shining and new in the hand of one desperate man. I heard all the hammers
+ on all the anvils of the earth. I saw all the swords of Feudal and all the
+ weals of Industrial war. For the knife is only a short sword; and the
+ pocket-knife is a secret sword. I opened it and looked at that brilliant
+ and terrible tongue which we call a blade; and I thought that perhaps it
+ was the symbol of the oldest of the needs of man. The next moment I knew
+ that I was wrong; for the thing that came next out of my pocket was a box
+ of matches. Then I saw fire, which is stronger even than steel, the old,
+ fierce female thing, the thing we all love, but dare not touch.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw in it all the art
+ and all the frescoes of the world. The next was a coin of a very modest
+ value; and I saw in it not only the image and superscription of our own
+ Caesar, but all government and order since the world began. But I have not
+ space to say what were the items in the long and splendid procession of
+ poetical symbols that came pouring out. I cannot tell you all the things
+ that were in my pocket. I can tell you one thing, however, that I could
+ not find in my pocket. I allude to my railway ticket.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XVI. The Dragon's Grandmother
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales. I do not
+ mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated in them&mdash;that
+ he did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into a coach. He did, indeed,
+ entertain this curious disbelief. And, like all the other people I have
+ ever met who entertained it, he was wholly unable to give me an
+ intelligent reason for it. He tried the laws of nature, but he soon
+ dropped that. Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary
+ experience, and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted
+ pumpkinity. But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+ adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply the attitude we
+ adopt towards all unusual occurrences. If we were certain of miracles we
+ should not count on them. Things that happen very seldom we all leave out
+ of our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not. I do not expect a
+ glass of water to be turned into wine; but neither do I expect a glass of
+ water to be poisoned with prussic acid. I do not in ordinary business
+ relations act on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but neither do
+ I act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost heir of the
+ Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is not that the natural order
+ is unalterable, but simply that it is much safer to bet on uncommon
+ incidents than on common ones. This does not touch the credibility of any
+ attested tale about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned into a coach. If I
+ had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car with my own eyes that
+ would not make me any more inclined to assume that the same thing would
+ happen again. I should not invest largely in pumpkins with an eye to the
+ motor trade. Cinderella got a ball dress from the fairy; but I do not
+ suppose that she looked after her own clothes any the less after it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened, though crazy,
+ is common. The man I speak of disbelieved in fairy tales in an even more
+ amazing and perverted sense. He actually thought that fairy tales ought
+ not to be told to children. That is (like a belief in slavery or
+ annexation) one of those intellectual errors which lie very near to
+ ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which, though they may be
+ done what is called conscientiously, yet carry so much of their whole
+ horror in the very act of them, that a man must in doing them not only
+ harden but slightly corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of milk
+ to young mothers when their husbands were in the field against us. Another
+ is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society of which
+ I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured, short-sighted young
+ man, like a stray curate who was too helpless even to find his way to the
+ Church of England. He had a curious green necktie and a very long neck; I
+ am always meeting idealists with very long necks. Perhaps it is that their
+ eternal aspiration slowly lifts their heads nearer and nearer to the
+ stars. Or perhaps it has something to do with the fact that so many of
+ them are vegetarians: perhaps they are slowly evolving the neck of the
+ giraffe so that they can eat all the tops of the trees in Kensington
+ Gardens. These things are in every sense above me. Such, anyhow, was the
+ young man who did not believe in fairy tales; and by a curious coincidence
+ he entered the room when I had just finished looking through a pile of
+ contemporary fiction, and had begun to read &ldquo;Grimm's Fairy tales&rdquo; as a
+ natural consequence.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+ imagine their titles for yourself. There was &ldquo;Suburban Sue: A Tale of
+ Psychology,&rdquo; and also &ldquo;Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia&rdquo;; there was
+ &ldquo;Trixy: A Temperament,&rdquo; and &ldquo;Man-Hate: A Monochrome,&rdquo; and all those nice
+ things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough, I grew
+ tired of them at last, and when I saw &ldquo;Grimm's Fairy Tales&rdquo; lying
+ accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy. Here at least,
+ here at last, one could find a little common sense. I opened the book, and
+ my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying words, &ldquo;The Dragon's
+ Grandmother.&rdquo; That at least was reasonable; that at least was true. &ldquo;The
+ Dragon's Grandmother!&rdquo; While I was rolling this first touch of ordinary
+ human reality upon my tongue, I looked up suddenly and saw this monster
+ with a green tie standing in the doorway.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I listened to what he said about the society politely enough, I hope; but
+ when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe in fairy tales, I
+ broke out beyond control. &ldquo;Man,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;who are you that you should not
+ believe in fairy tales? It is much easier to believe in Blue Beard than to
+ believe in you. A blue beard is a misfortune; but there are green ties
+ which are sins. It is far easier to believe in a million fairy tales than
+ to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales. I would rather kiss
+ Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all his stories as if they were
+ thirty-nine articles than say seriously and out of my heart that there can
+ be such a man as you; that you are not some temptation of the devil or
+ some delusion from the void. Look at these plain, homely, practical words.
+ 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all right; that is rational almost to
+ the verge of rationalism. If there was a dragon, he had a grandmother. But
+ you&mdash;you had no grandmother! If you had known one, she would have
+ taught you to love fairy tales. You had no father, you had no mother; no
+ natural causes can explain you. You cannot be. I believe many things which
+ I have not seen; but of such things as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he
+ that has seen and yet has disbelieved.'&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy, so I
+ moderated my tone. &ldquo;Can you not see,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;that fairy tales in their
+ essence are quite solid and straightforward; but that this everlasting
+ fiction about modern life is in its nature essentially incredible?
+ Folk-lore means that the soul is sane, but that the universe is wild and
+ full of marvels. Realism means that the world is dull and full of routine,
+ but that the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the fairy tale is&mdash;what
+ will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The problem of the modern
+ novel is&mdash;what will a madman do with a dull world? In the fairy tales
+ the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad. In the modern novels
+ the hero is mad before the book begins, and suffers from the harsh
+ steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos. In the excellent tale of 'The
+ Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other tales of Grimm, it is assumed that
+ the young man setting out on his travels will have all substantial truths
+ in him; that he will be brave, full of faith, reasonable, that he will
+ respect his parents, keep his word, rescue one kind of people, defy
+ another kind, 'parcere subjectis et debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed
+ this centre of sanity, the writer entertains himself by fancying what
+ would happen if the whole world went mad all round it, if the sun turned
+ green and the moon blue, if horses had six legs and giants had two heads.
+ But your modern literature takes insanity as its centre. Therefore, it
+ loses the interest even of insanity. A lunatic is not startling to
+ himself, because he is quite serious; that is what makes him a lunatic. A
+ man who thinks he is a piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of
+ glass. A man who thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a
+ chicken. It is only sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity.
+ Therefore, these wise old tales made the hero ordinary and the tale
+ extraordinary. But you have made the hero extraordinary and the tale
+ ordinary&mdash;so ordinary&mdash;oh, so very ordinary.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me under the
+ hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, &ldquo;In the name of God and
+ Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother&mdash;in the name of all good
+ things&mdash;I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more.&rdquo; Whether
+ or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt that he
+ definitely went away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XVII. The Red Angel
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad for
+ children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him I can never
+ count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest letter saying that
+ fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even if they are true. She
+ says that it is cruel to tell children fairy tales, because it frightens
+ them. You might just as well say that it is cruel to give girls
+ sentimental novels because it makes them cry. All this kind of talk is
+ based on that complete forgetting of what a child is like which has been
+ the firm foundation of so many educational schemes. If you keep bogies and
+ goblins away from children they would make them up for themselves. One
+ small child in the dark can invent more hells than Swedenborg. One small
+ child can imagine monsters too big and black to get into any picture, and
+ give them names too unearthly and cacophonous to have occurred in the
+ cries of any lunatic. The child, to begin with, commonly likes horrors,
+ and he continues to indulge in them even when he does not like them. There
+ is just as much difficulty in saying exactly where pure pain begins in his
+ case, as there is in ours when we walk of our own free will into the
+ torture-chamber of a great tragedy. The fear does not come from fairy
+ tales; the fear comes from the universe of the soul.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable; they are
+ alarmed at this world, because this world is a very alarming place. They
+ dislike being alone because it is verily and indeed an awful idea to be
+ alone. Barbarians fear the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics
+ worship it&mdash;because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not
+ responsible for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear;
+ fairy tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly; that
+ is in the child already, because it is in the world already. Fairy tales
+ do not give the child his first idea of bogey. What fairy tales give the
+ child is his first clear idea of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby
+ has known the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination. What the
+ fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to kill the dragon.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him for a series of
+ clear pictures to the idea that these limitless terrors had a limit, that
+ these shapeless enemies have enemies in the knights of God, that there is
+ something in the universe more mystical than darkness, and stronger than
+ strong fear. When I was a child I have stared at the darkness until the
+ whole black bulk of it turned into one negro giant taller than heaven. If
+ there was one star in the sky it only made him a Cyclops. But fairy tales
+ restored my mental health, for next day I read an authentic account of how
+ a negro giant with one eye, of quite equal dimensions, had been baffled by
+ a little boy like myself (of similar inexperience and even lower social
+ status) by means of a sword, some bad riddles, and a brave heart.
+ Sometimes the sea at night seemed as dreadful as any dragon. But then I
+ was acquainted with many youngest sons and little sailors to whom a dragon
+ or two was as simple as the sea.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery, the
+ excellent tale of the &ldquo;Boy who Could not Shudder,&rdquo; and you will see what I
+ mean. There are some living shocks in that tale. I remember specially a
+ man's legs which fell down the chimney by themselves and walked about the
+ room, until they were rejoined by the severed head and body which fell
+ down the chimney after them. That is very good. But the point of the story
+ and the point of the reader's feelings is not that these things are
+ frightening, but the far more striking fact that the hero was not
+ frightened at them. The most fearful of all these fearful wonders was his
+ own absence of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked the
+ devils to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled with
+ some modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his spirit.
+ If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it; it is the
+ wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught to shudder by
+ taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him. In that one
+ sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage than in all the
+ books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd and
+ St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making him
+ rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone. For the
+ devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in the
+ universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted; but
+ the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied. As I told &ldquo;H. N.
+ B.&rdquo; (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its most superstitious
+ sense), the one thing modern people really do believe in is damnation. The
+ greatest of purely modern poets summed up the really modern attitude in
+ that fine Agnostic line&mdash;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There may be Heaven; there must be Hell.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition; and the
+ new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin by being
+ gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits. Now they are
+ beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+ because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or waltzed
+ with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least. I wish the
+ spirits were more farcical than they are. That they should make more jokes
+ and better ones, would be my suggestion. For almost all the spiritualism
+ of our time, in so far as it is new, is solemn and sad. Some Pagan gods
+ were lawless, and some Christian saints were a little too serious; but the
+ spirits of modern spiritualism are both lawless and serious&mdash;a
+ disgusting combination. The specially contemporary spirits are not only
+ devils, they are blue devils. This is, first and last, the real value of
+ Christmas; in so far as the mythology remains at all it is a kind of happy
+ mythology. Personally, of course, I believe in Santa Claus; but it is the
+ season of forgiveness, and I will forgive others for not doing so. But if
+ there is anyone who does not comprehend the defect in our world which I am
+ civilising, I should recommend him, for instance, to read a story by Mr.
+ Henry James, called &ldquo;The Turn of the Screw.&rdquo; It is one of the most
+ powerful things ever written, and it is one of the things about which I
+ doubt most whether it ought ever to have been written at all. It describes
+ two innocent children gradually growing at once omniscient and half-witted
+ under the influence of the foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I
+ say, I doubt whether Mr. Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is
+ not indecent, do not buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the
+ question so doubtful that I will give that truly great man a chance. I
+ will approve the thing as well as admire it if he will write another tale
+ just as powerful about two children and Santa Claus. If he will not, or
+ cannot, then the conclusion is clear; we can deal strongly with gloomy
+ mystery, but not with happy mystery; we are not rationalists, but
+ diabolists.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that stands
+ up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have never heard
+ of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil. That is exactly what I
+ mean.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XVIII. The Tower
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great Belfry
+ Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought (though not,
+ perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies of
+ architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve the one
+ startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts. But this sort of
+ sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy and energy of these
+ Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most prosaic landscapes, but
+ the most violent and extravagant of buildings. Here Nature is tame; it is
+ civilisation that is untamable. Here the fields are as flat as a paved
+ square; but, on the other hand, the streets and roofs are as uproarious as
+ a forest in a great wind. The waters of wood and meadow slide as smoothly
+ and meekly as if they were in the London water-pipes. But the parish pump
+ is carved with all the creatures out of the wilderness. Part of this is
+ true, of course, of all art. We talk of wild animals, but the wildest
+ animal is man. There are sounds in music that are more ancient and awful
+ than the cry of the strangest beast at night. And so also there are
+ buildings that are shapeless in their strength, seeming to lift themselves
+ slowly like monsters from the primal mire, and there are spires that seem
+ to fly up suddenly like a startled bird.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit in
+ humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only man who
+ has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man is ever
+ undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who are wild. And
+ doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to all human art, it is
+ also generally characteristic of Christian art among the arts of the
+ world. This is what people really mean when they say that Christianity is
+ barbaric, and arose in ignorance. As a matter of historic fact, it didn't;
+ it arose in the most equably civilised period the world has ever seen.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But it is true that there is something in it that breaks the outline of
+ perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots with anger the blind
+ eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry charge the horses of the Elgin
+ Marbles. Christianity is savage, in the sense that it is primeval; there
+ is in it a touch of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate in which I had
+ praised militant music in ritual, and some one asked me if I could imagine
+ Christ walking down the street before a brass band. I said I could imagine
+ it with the greatest ease; for Christ definitely approved a natural
+ noisiness at a great moment. When the street children shouted too loud,
+ certain priggish disciples did begin to rebuke them in the name of good
+ taste. He said: &ldquo;If these were silent the very stones would cry out.&rdquo; With
+ these words He called up all the wealth of artistic creation that has been
+ founded on this creed. With those words He founded Gothic architecture.
+ For in a town like this, which seems to have grown Gothic as a wood grows
+ leaves, anywhere and anyhow, any odd brick or moulding may be carved off
+ into a shouting face. The front of vast buildings is thronged with open
+ mouths, angels praising God, or devils defying Him. Rock itself is racked
+ and twisted, until it seems to scream. The miracle is accomplished; the
+ very stones cry out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+ creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable in
+ the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant things
+ in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All Christian
+ temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges Belfry is a
+ gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like a giraffe. The
+ same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind at every corner of a
+ Flemish town. And if any one asks, &ldquo;Why did the people of these flat
+ countries instinctively raise these riotous and towering monuments?&rdquo; the
+ only answer one can give is, &ldquo;Because they were the people of these flat
+ countries.&rdquo; If any one asks, &ldquo;Why the men of Bruges sacrificed
+ architecture and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?&rdquo; we
+ can only answer, &ldquo;Because Nature gave them no encouragement to do so.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some of my
+ friends in London who are quite sure of how children will turn out if you
+ give them what they call &ldquo;the right environment.&rdquo; It is a troublesome
+ thing, environment, for it sometimes works positively and sometimes
+ negatively, and more often between the two. A beautiful environment may
+ make a child love beauty; it may make him bored with beauty; most likely
+ the two effects will mix and neutralise each other. Most likely, that is,
+ the environment will make hardly any difference at all. In the scientific
+ style of history (which was recently fashionable, and is still
+ conventional) we always had a list of countries that had owed their
+ characteristics to their physical conditions.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country is hot;
+ Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold; Englishmen naval
+ because they are islanders; Switzers free because they are mountaineers.
+ It is all very nice in its way. Only unfortunately I am quite certain that
+ I could make up quite as long a list exactly contrary in its argument
+ point-blank against the influence of their geographical environment. Thus
+ Spaniards have discovered more continents than Scandinavians because their
+ hot climate discouraged them from exertion. Thus Dutchmen have fought for
+ their freedom quite as bravely as Switzers because the Dutch have no
+ mountains. Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many Mediterranean peoples have
+ specially hated the sea because they had the nicest sea to deal with, the
+ easiest sea to manage. I could extend the list for ever. But however long
+ it was, two examples would certainly stand up in it as pre-eminent and
+ unquestionable. The first is that the Swiss, who live under staggering
+ precipices and spires of eternal snow, have produced no art or literature
+ at all, and are by far the most mundane, sensible, and business-like
+ people in Europe. The other is that the people of Belgium, who live in a
+ country like a carpet, have, by an inner energy, desired to exalt their
+ towers till they struck the stars.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially with
+ his environment or specially against his environment, I cannot comfort
+ myself with the thought that the modern discussions about environment are
+ of much practical value. But I think I will not write any more about these
+ modern theories, but go on looking at the Belfry of Bruges. I would give
+ them the greater attention if I were not pretty well convinced that the
+ theories will have disappeared a long time before the Belfry.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XIX. How I Met the President
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa and
+ a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular and
+ convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making a bright
+ suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not, I regret to
+ say, received with the seriousness it deserved. I suggested that a band of
+ devoted and noble youths, including ourselves, should express our sense of
+ the pathos of the President's and the Republic's fate by growing Kruger
+ beards under our chins. I imagined how abruptly this decoration would
+ alter the appearance of Mr. John Morley; how startling it would be as it
+ emerged from under the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But the younger men, my
+ own friends, on whom I more particularly urged it, men whose names are in
+ many cases familiar to the readers of this paper&mdash;Mr. Masterman's for
+ instance, and Mr. Conrad Noel&mdash;they, I felt, being young and
+ beautiful, would do even more justice to the Kruger beard, and when
+ walking down the street with it could not fail to attract attention. The
+ beard would have been a kind of counterblast to the Rhodes hat. An
+ appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in Africa is only an
+ external thing, placed upon the top like a hat; the Dutch power and
+ tradition is a thing rooted and growing like a beard; we have shaved it,
+ and it is growing again. The Kruger beard would represent time and the
+ natural processes. You cannot grow a beard in a moment of passion.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town. I went
+ down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards an
+ election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for the Liberal
+ candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in. I sometimes lie
+ awake at night and meditate upon that mystery; but it must not detain us
+ now. The rather singular incident which happened to me then, and which
+ some recent events have recalled to me, happened while the canvassing was
+ still going on. It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine, settling
+ everywhere on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out into a kind
+ of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which, as far as I
+ know, only exists in England; that sense as if the bushes and the roads
+ were human, and had kindness like men; as if the tree were a good giant
+ with one wooden leg; as if the very line of palings were a row of
+ good-tempered gnomes. On one side of the white, sprawling road a low hill
+ or down showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the other the land
+ tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip hills. The road
+ was very erratic, for every true English road exists in order to lead one
+ a dance; and what could be more beautiful and beneficent than a dance? At
+ an abrupt turn of it I came upon a low white building, with dark doors and
+ dark shuttered windows, evidently not inhabited and scarcely in the
+ ordinary sense inhabitable&mdash;a thing more like a toolhouse than a
+ house of any other kind. Made idle by the heat, I paused, and, taking a
+ piece of red chalk out of my pocket, began drawing aimlessly on the back
+ door&mdash;drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain, and finally the ideal
+ Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials did not permit of any
+ delicate rendering of his noble and national expansion of countenance
+ (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for man, and yet of an element of
+ humour); but the hat was finely handled. Just as I was adding the
+ finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy, I was frozen to the spot with
+ terror. The black door, which I thought no more of than the lid of an
+ empty box, began slowly to open, impelled from within by a human hand. And
+ President Kruger himself came out into the sunlight!
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did not
+ wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures, slung
+ across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled the Empire
+ with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes, there was the
+ heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger beard which I had
+ sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under the features of Mr.
+ Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I was too much emotionally
+ shaken to observe; he had not the stone lions with him, or Mrs. Kruger;
+ and what he was doing in that dark shed I cannot imagine, but I suppose he
+ was oppressing an Outlander.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger in Somersetshire
+ during the war. I had no idea that he was in the neighbourhood. But a yet
+ more arresting surprise awaited me. Mr. Kruger regarded me for some
+ moments with a dubious grey eye, and then addressed me with a strong
+ Somersetshire accent. A curious cold shock went through me to hear that
+ inappropriate voice coming out of that familiar form. It was as if you met
+ a Chinaman, with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he began to talk broad
+ Scotch. But the next moment, of course, I understood the situation. We had
+ much underrated the Boers in supposing that the Boer education was
+ incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot against our island home, the
+ terrible President had learnt not only English, but all the dialects at a
+ moment's notice to win over a Lancashire merchant or seduce a
+ Northumberland Fusilier. No doubt, if I asked him, this stout old
+ gentleman could grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk, and so on, like
+ the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if our plain, true-hearted
+ German millionaires fell before a cunning so penetrated with culture as
+ this.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all that this strange
+ old man gave me. When he asked me, dryly enough, but not without a certain
+ steady civility that belongs to old-fashioned country people, what I
+ wanted and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case, explaining
+ my political mission and the almost angelic qualities of the Liberal
+ candidate. Whereupon, this old man became suddenly transfigured in the
+ sunlight into a devil of wrath. It was some time before I could understand
+ a word he said, but the one word that kept on recurring was the word
+ &ldquo;Kruger,&rdquo; and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of violent
+ terms. Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want him to help
+ old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was... and here he became once more
+ obscure. The one thing that he made quite clear was that he wouldn't do
+ anything for Kruger.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But you ARE Kruger,&rdquo; burst from my lips, in a natural explosion of
+ reasonableness. &ldquo;You ARE Kruger, aren't you?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first there would
+ be a fight, and I remembered with regret that the President in early life
+ had had a hobby of killing lions. But really I began to think that I had
+ been mistaken, and that it was not the President after all. There was a
+ confounding sincerity in the anger with which he declared that he was
+ Farmer Bowles, and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually and
+ parted from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me with a few
+ tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of his identity. In the
+ coffee-room to which I returned there was an illustrated paper with a
+ picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer Bowles were as like as two
+ peas. There was a picture also of a group of Outlander leaders, and the
+ faces of them, leering and triumphant, were perhaps unduly darkened by the
+ photograph, but they seemed to me like the faces of a distant and hostile
+ people.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll, when he
+ drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze with the blue Tory
+ ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his colours everywhere. It was
+ evening, and the warm western light was on the grey hair and heavy massive
+ features of that good old man. I knew as one knows a fact of sense that if
+ Spanish and German stockbrokers had flooded his farm or country he would
+ have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an Irishman, but with the
+ ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the Boer. I knew that without
+ seeing it, as certainly as I knew without seeing it that when he went into
+ the polling room he put his cross against the Conservative name. Then he
+ came out again, having given his vote and looking more like Kruger than
+ ever. And at the same hour on the same night thousands upon thousands of
+ English Krugers gave the same vote. And thus Kruger was pulled down and
+ the dark-faced men in the photograph reigned in his stead.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XX. The Giant
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night. At
+ least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is great. All
+ architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps architecture is
+ really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks. At least, I think many
+ people of those nobler trades that work by night (journalists, policemen,
+ burglars, coffee-stall keepers, and such mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to
+ go home till morning) must often have stood admiring some black bulk of
+ building with a crown of battlements or a crest of spires and then burst
+ into tears at daybreak to discover that it was only a haberdasher's shop
+ with huge gold letters across the face of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be wandering
+ in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight. I sat down on a bench
+ with my back to the river, happening to choose such a place that a huge
+ angle and façade of building jutting out from the Strand sat above me like
+ an incubus. I dare say that if I took the same seat to-morrow by daylight
+ I should find the impression entirely false. In sunlight the thing might
+ seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness it seemed as if the walls
+ were almost falling upon me. Never before have I had so strongly the sense
+ which makes people pessimists in politics, the sense of the hopeless
+ height of the high places of the earth. That pile of wealth and power,
+ whatever was its name, went up above and beyond me like a cliff that no
+ living thing could climb. I had an irrational sense that this thing had to
+ be fought, that I had to fight it; and that I could offer nothing to the
+ occasion but an indolent journalist with a walking-stick.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black, blind
+ face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge face of a sleeping
+ giant; the eyes were too close together, and gave it the suggestion of a
+ bestial sneer. And either by accident of this light or of some other, I
+ could now read the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+ it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything that I
+ should like to pull down with my hands if I could. Reared by a detected
+ robber, it is framed to be the fashionable and luxurious home of
+ undetected robbers. In the house of man are many mansions; but there is a
+ class of men who feel normal nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or in
+ Dartmoor Gaol. That big black face, which was staring at me with its
+ flaming eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic and
+ fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer; the hour had come, but
+ not the man. I sat down on the seat again (I had had one wild impulse to
+ climb up the front of the hotel and fall in at one of the windows), and I
+ tried to think, as all decent people are thinking, what one can really do.
+ And all the time that oppressive wall went up in front of me, and took
+ hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been the defeated who
+ have won. The people who were left worst at the end of the war were
+ generally the people who were left best at the end of the whole business.
+ For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the Christians. But they
+ did not end in the decline of the Christians; they ended in the decline of
+ the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave of Moslem power which had hung in
+ the very heavens above the towns of Christendom, that wave was broken, and
+ never came on again. The Crusaders had saved Paris in the act of losing
+ Jerusalem. The same applies to that epic of Republican war in the
+ eighteenth century to which we Liberals owe our political creed. The
+ French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came back across a carpet of
+ dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had lost its last battle; but it had
+ gained its first object. It had cut a chasm. The world has never been the
+ same since. No one after that has ever been able to treat the poor merely
+ as a pavement.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere stones of the
+ street; but as stones that may sometimes fly. If it please God, you and I
+ may see some of the stones flying again before we see death. But here I
+ only remark the interesting fact that the conquered almost always conquer.
+ Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again. Sparta
+ went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds. The Boers lost
+ the South African War and gained South Africa.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+ stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment; it
+ deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock and jar the
+ unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil; just as a pebble on a
+ railway can stagger the Scotch express. It is enough for the great martyrs
+ and criminals of the French revolution, that they have surprised for all
+ time the secret weakness of the strong. They have awakened and set leaping
+ and quivering in his crypt for ever the coward in the hearts of kings.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his experience was
+ not such as has been generally supposed. If you care to hear it I will
+ tell you the real story of Jack the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the most
+ awful thing which Jack first felt about the giant was that he was not a
+ giant. He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and against
+ its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a figure in a
+ picture&mdash;he seemed merely a man walking across the grass. Then Jack
+ was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man was treading down
+ was one of the tallest forests upon that plain. The man came nearer and
+ nearer, growing bigger and bigger, and at the instant when he passed the
+ possible stature of humanity Jack almost screamed. The rest was an
+ intolerable apocalypse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle; the more he became
+ incredible the more he became solid. The less one could believe in him the
+ more plainly one could see him. It was unbearable that so much of the sky
+ should be occupied by one human face. His eyes, which had stood out like
+ bow windows, became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that could
+ contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes. Jack's intellect
+ was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism of the face that filled the
+ sky; his last hope was submerged, his five wits all still with terror.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of dead
+ honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his hand. He
+ rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and when he came
+ quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a cave. Then he
+ planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant on it with all
+ his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the hilt, and then
+ snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant felt a sort of
+ prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great hand for an
+ instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and stared at the
+ ground until he had seen his enemy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw him away;
+ and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were flying from system
+ to system through the universe of stars. But, as the giant had thrown him
+ away carelessly, he did not strike a stone, but struck soft mire by the
+ side of a distant river. There he lay insensible for several hours; but
+ when he awoke again his horrible conqueror was still in sight. He was
+ striding away across the void and wooded plain towards where it ended in
+ the sea; and by this time he was only much higher than any of the hills.
+ He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really high mountain grows at
+ last less and less when we leave it in a railway train. Half an hour
+ afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the distant hills; but his
+ outline was still human and still gigantic. Then the big blue figure
+ seemed to come to the brink of the big blue sea, and even as it did so it
+ altered its attitude. Jack, stunned and bleeding, lifted himself
+ laboriously upon one elbow to stare. The giant once more caught hold of
+ his ankle, wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over into the great
+ sea which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all things God has
+ made, was big enough to drown him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXI. A Great Man
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has always
+ seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing away the veils from
+ private life; but it seems to me to be always dropping diaphanous but
+ blinding veils between men and men. The Yellow Press is abused for
+ exposing facts which are private; I wish the Yellow Press did anything so
+ valuable. It is exactly the decisive individual touches that it never
+ gives; and a proof of this is that after one has met a man a million times
+ in the newspapers it is always a complete shock and reversal to meet him
+ in real life. The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of catching the
+ first fresh fact about a man that dominates all after impressions. For
+ instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that he spoke with a reckless
+ desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of sentiment; but I never knew
+ till he opened his mouth that he spoke with an Irish accent, which is more
+ important than all the other criticisms put together.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out private
+ personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities on the
+ surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression of this kind
+ which we have all felt when we met great poets or politicians, but which
+ never finds its way into the newspapers. I mean the impression that they
+ are much older than we thought they were. We connect great men with their
+ great triumphs, which generally happened some years ago, and many recruits
+ enthusiastic for the thin Napoleon of Marengo must have found themselves
+ in the presence of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising politician
+ confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of boyhood. It
+ described how his &ldquo;brave young voice&rdquo; rang in the rafters. I also remember
+ that I met him some days after, and he was considerably older than my own
+ father. I mention this truth for only one purpose: all this generalisation
+ leads up to only one fact&mdash;the fact that I once met a great man who
+ was younger than I expected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down a
+ stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies. A
+ warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight which
+ though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening. It was such
+ sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set an instant after
+ noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened and the road sank.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents; I felt that the
+ treetops that closed above me were the fixed and real things, certain as
+ the level of the sea; but that the solid earth was every instant failing
+ under my feet. In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in
+ splashes, like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky. Around me
+ in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every plain or twisted
+ type; it was like a chapel supported on columns of every earthly and
+ unearthly style of architecture.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature of the
+ forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force. For the meaning of
+ woods is the combination of energy with complexity. A forest is not in the
+ least rude or barbarous; it is only dense with delicacy. Unique shapes
+ that an artist would copy or a philosopher watch for years if he found
+ them in an open plain are here mingled and confounded; but it is not a
+ darkness of deformity. It is a darkness of life; a darkness of perfection.
+ And I began to think how much of the highest human obscurity is like this,
+ and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell you, for
+ instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead. Believe me,
+ if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate; it is only the
+ live tree that grows too many branches.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out into
+ deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the evening was so
+ far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a sunset all to itself. I
+ went along that road according to directions that had been given me, and
+ passed the gateway in a slight paling beyond which the wood changed only
+ faintly to a garden. It was as if the curious courtesy and fineness of
+ that character I was to meet went out from him upon the valley; for I felt
+ on all these things the finger of that quality which the old English
+ called &ldquo;faërie&rdquo;; it is the quality which those can never understand who
+ think of the past as merely brutal; it is an ancient elegance such as
+ there is in trees. I went through the garden and saw an old man sitting by
+ a table, looking smallish in his big chair. He was already an invalid, and
+ his hair and beard were both white; not like snow, for snow is cold and
+ heavy, but like something feathery, or even fierce; rather they were white
+ like the white thistledown. I came up quite close to him; he looked at me
+ as he put out his frail hand, and I saw of a sudden that his eyes were
+ startlingly young. He was the one great man of the old world whom I have
+ met who was not a mere statue over his own grave.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about the books
+ he had written; he was far too much alive for that. He talked about the
+ books he had not written. He unrolled a purple bundle of romances which he
+ had never had time to sell. He asked me to write one of the stories for
+ him, as he would have asked the milkman, if he had been talking to the
+ milkman. It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort of astronomical
+ farce. It was all about a man who was rushing up to the Royal Society with
+ the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying comet; and it showed
+ how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped up at every other
+ minute by his own weakness and vanities; how he lost a train by trifling
+ or was put in gaol for brawling. That is only one of them; there were ten
+ or twenty more. Another, I dimly remember, was a version of the fall of
+ Parnell; the idea that a quite honest man might be secret from a pure love
+ of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went out of that garden with a
+ blurred sensation of the million possibilities of creative literature. The
+ feeling increased as my way fell back into the wood; for a wood is a
+ palace with a million corridors that cross each other everywhere. I really
+ had the feeling that I had seen the creative quality; which is
+ supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls the Old Man of the Forest: I
+ had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind my path; I have never seen him
+ again; and now I shall not see him, because he died last Tuesday.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXII. The Orthodox Barber
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert that the love
+ of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them; and so, perhaps, it
+ would, if they had it. There is a very real thing which may be called the
+ love of humanity; in our time it exists almost entirely among what are
+ called uneducated people; and it does not exist at all among the people
+ who talk about it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being is
+ chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday; that is
+ why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances) than any other
+ part of our population.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty train at
+ a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them; they all got
+ into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the train entirely empty.
+ That is the real love of humanity. That is the definite pleasure in the
+ immediate proximity of one's own kind. Only this coarse, rank, real love
+ of men seems to be entirely lacking in those who propose the love of
+ humanity as a substitute for all other love; honourable, rationalistic
+ idealists.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked the sudden
+ starting of that train; all the factory girls who could not find seats
+ (and they must have been the majority) relieving their feelings by jumping
+ up and down. Now I have never seen any rationalistic idealists do this. I
+ have never seen twenty modern philosophers crowd into one third-class
+ carriage for the mere pleasure of being together. I have never seen twenty
+ Mr. McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and down.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun all beautiful
+ places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches. But their fear is
+ unreasonable; because trippers always prefer to trip together; they pack
+ as close as they can; they have a suffocating passion of philanthropy.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle, I have no
+ hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber. Before any
+ modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist (I insist with
+ violence) that he shall always be very much pleased when his barber tries
+ to talk to him. His barber is humanity: let him love that. If he is not
+ pleased at this, I will not accept any substitute in the way of interest
+ in the Congo or the future of Japan. If a man cannot love his barber whom
+ he has seen, how shall he love the Japanese whom he has not seen?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about the
+ weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about it
+ with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks about
+ it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest. It is
+ objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald. That is to
+ say, his very virtues are cast up against him; he is blamed because, being
+ a specialist, he is a sincere specialist, and because, being a tradesman,
+ he is not entirely a slave. But the only proof of such things is by
+ example; therefore I will prove the excellence of the conversation of
+ barbers by a specific case. Lest any one should accuse me of attempting to
+ prove it by fictitious means, I beg to say quite seriously that though I
+ forget the exact language employed, the following conversation between me
+ and a human (I trust), living barber really took place a few days ago.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers, and lest
+ I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out of the
+ interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get shaved.
+ While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir. It
+ seems you can shave yourself with anything&mdash;with a stick or a stone
+ or a pole or a poker&rdquo; (here I began for the first time to detect a
+ sarcastic intonation) &ldquo;or a shovel or a&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about the
+ matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Or a button-hook,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram or a
+ piston-rod&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, &ldquo;Or a curtain rod or a
+ candle-stick, or a&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Cow-catcher,&rdquo; I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic duet
+ for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told me. He
+ explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The funny part of it is,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;that the thing isn't new at all. It's
+ been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before. There is always
+ a notion that the razor might be done without somehow. But none of those
+ schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe myself that this will.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Why, as to that,&rdquo; I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying to put
+ on my coat inside out, &ldquo;I don't know how it may be in the case of you and
+ your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you, is a trivial and
+ materialistic thing, and in such things startling inventions are sometimes
+ made. But what you say reminds me in some dark and dreamy fashion of
+ something else. I recall it especially when you tell me, with such evident
+ experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not really new. My
+ friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of making everything
+ entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts off one thing it shifts
+ on to another. If one man has not the toil of preparing a man's chin, I
+ suppose that some other man has the toil of preparing something very
+ curious to put on a man's chin. It would be nice if we could be shaved
+ without troubling anybody. It would be nicer still if we could go unshaved
+ without annoying anybody&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it under
+ strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written that a man
+ shall not eat his cake and have it; and though all men talked until the
+ stars were old it would still be true that a man who has lost his razor
+ could not shave with it. But every now and then men jump up with the new
+ something or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+ that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there is no real
+ difference between being shaved and not being shaved. The difference, they
+ say, is only a difference of degree; everything is evolutionary and
+ relative. Shavedness is immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is a
+ Potential Razor. The superstitious people of the past (they say) believed
+ that a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to one's face
+ was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches us better.
+ Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow where Shaving should be.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something. But a baby is
+ the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby he will know whether you
+ are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing up being shaved and being saved; my
+ democratic sympathies have always led me to drop my 'h's.' In another
+ moment I may suggest that goats represent the lost because goats have long
+ beards. This is growing altogether too allegorical.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nevertheless,&rdquo; I added, as I paid the bill, &ldquo;I have really been
+ profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving. Have you
+ ever heard of a thing called the New theology?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He smiled and said that he had not.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXIII. The Toy Theatre
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+ and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys takes so
+ very much more time and trouble than anything else. Playing as children
+ mean playing is the most serious thing in the world; and as soon as we
+ have small duties or small sorrows we have to abandon to some extent so
+ enormous and ambitious a plan of life. We have enough strength for
+ politics and commerce and art and philosophy; we have not enough strength
+ for play. This is a truth which every one will recognize who, as a child,
+ has ever played with anything at all; any one who has played with bricks,
+ any one who has played with dolls, any one who has played with tin
+ soldiers. My journalistic work, which earns money, is not pursued with
+ such awful persistency as that work which earned nothing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow in twelve volumes
+ (it would be just like you) on &ldquo;The Theory and Practice of European
+ Architecture,&rdquo; your work may be laborious, but it is fundamentally
+ frivolous. It is not serious as the work of a child piling one brick on
+ the other is serious; for the simple reason that if your book is a bad
+ book no one will ever be able ultimately and entirely to prove to you that
+ it is a bad book. Whereas if his balance of bricks is a bad balance of
+ bricks, it will simply tumble down. And if I know anything of children, he
+ will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it up again. Whereas, if I
+ know anything of authors, nothing would induce you to write your book
+ again, or even to think of it again if you could help it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational cause
+ than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on education as
+ to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else. But it is
+ almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after a child. The
+ little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea worship their
+ dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play as idolatry. In some
+ cases the love and care of the artistic symbol has actually become more
+ important than the human reality which it was, I suppose, originally meant
+ to symbolize.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+ stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+ conduct, she replied: &ldquo;I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending to be
+ my dolly.&rdquo; Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had been a
+ substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute for a
+ doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such devotion
+ takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if it were really
+ the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point is that the man
+ writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist; the child playing with
+ a doll is a mother.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+ is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+ campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+ soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+ thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember a
+ war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: &ldquo;This renewed
+ activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his being short of
+ stores.&rdquo; The same military critic had mentioned a few paragraphs before
+ that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which was pursuing him
+ under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey; and Delarey's
+ activity was due to his being short of stores. Otherwise he would have
+ stood quite still while he was chased. I run after Jones with a hatchet,
+ and if he turns round and tries to get rid of me the only possible
+ explanation is that he has a very small balance at his bankers. I cannot
+ believe that any boy playing at soldiers would be as idiotic as this. But
+ then any one playing at anything has to be serious. Whereas, as I have
+ only too good reason to know, if you are writing an article you can say
+ anything that comes into your head.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's games is,
+ generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure in them; it is simply
+ that they have no leisure for them. It is that they cannot afford the
+ expenditure of toil and time and consideration for so grand and grave a
+ scheme. I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete a
+ play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre that used to be
+ called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured; only that I drew and coloured
+ the figures and scenes myself. Hence I was free from the degrading
+ obligation of having to pay either a penny or twopence; I only had to pay
+ a shilling a sheet for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad water
+ colours. The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar to every
+ one; it is never more than a development of the stage which Skelt made and
+ Stevenson celebrated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I ever worked
+ at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work seems too heavy for
+ me. I have to break off and betake myself to lighter employments; such as
+ the biographies of great men. The play of &ldquo;St. George and the Dragon,&rdquo;
+ over which I have burnt the midnight oil (you must colour the thing by
+ lamplight because that is how it will be seen), still lacks most
+ conspicuously, alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace, and also some
+ comprehensible and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality. In
+ this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because pure
+ pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours. But it is partly
+ because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble. If I am ever in
+ any other and better world, I hope that I shall have enough time to play
+ with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I shall have enough divine
+ and superhuman energy to act at least one play in them without a hitch.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's consideration.
+ All the essential morals which modern men need to learn could be deduced
+ from this toy. Artistically considered, it reminds us of the main
+ principle of art, the principle which is in most danger of being forgotten
+ in our time. I mean the fact that art consists of limitation; the fact
+ that art is limitation. Art does not consist in expanding things. Art
+ consists of cutting things down, as I cut down with a pair of scissors my
+ very ugly figures of St. George and the Dragon. Plato, who liked definite
+ ideas, would like my cardboard dragon; for though the creature has few
+ other artistic merits he is at least dragonish. The modern philosopher,
+ who likes infinity, is quite welcome to a sheet of the plain cardboard.
+ The most artistic thing about the theatrical art is the fact that the
+ spectator looks at the whole thing through a window. This is true even of
+ theatres inferior to my own; even at the Court Theatre or His Majesty's
+ you are looking through a window; an unusually large window. But the
+ advantage of the small theatre exactly is that you are looking through a
+ small window. Has not every one noticed how sweet and startling any
+ landscape looks when seen through an arch? This strong, square shape, this
+ shutting off of everything else is not only an assistance to beauty; it is
+ the essential of beauty. The most beautiful part of every picture is the
+ frame.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing the scale of
+ events it can introduce much larger events. Because it is small it could
+ easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica. Because it is small it could
+ easily represent the Day of Judgment. Exactly in so far as it is limited,
+ so far it could play easily with falling cities or with falling stars.
+ Meanwhile the big theatres are obliged to be economical because they are
+ big. When we have understood this fact we shall have understood something
+ of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by small
+ nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier into the small
+ city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia. In the narrow
+ streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room for Purgatory and
+ Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled by the British Empire. Great
+ empires are necessarily prosaic; for it is beyond human power to act a
+ great poem upon so great a scale. You can only represent very big ideas in
+ very small spaces. My toy theatre is as philosophical as the drama of
+ Athens.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ My relations with the readers of this page have been long and pleasant,
+ but&mdash;perhaps for that very reason&mdash;I feel that the time has come
+ when I ought to confess the one great crime of my life. It happened a long
+ time ago; but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse to reveal
+ such dark episodes long after they have occurred. It has nothing to do
+ with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League. That body is so offensively
+ respectable that a newspaper, in describing it the other day, referred to
+ my friend Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed that
+ similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is not by the conduct of
+ Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton, of the Rev. James Douglas, of
+ Monsignor Bland, and even of that fine and virile old ecclesiastic,
+ Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish (or rather, am driven by my conscience) to
+ make this declaration. The crime was committed in solitude and without
+ accomplices. Alone I did it. Let me, with the characteristic thirst of
+ penitents to get the worst of the confession over, state it first of all
+ in its most dreadful and indefensible form. There is at the present moment
+ in a town in Germany (unless he has died of rage on discovering his
+ wrong), a restaurant-keeper to whom I still owe twopence. I last left his
+ open-air restaurant knowing that I owed him twopence. I carried it away
+ under his nose, despite the fact that the nose was a decidedly Jewish one.
+ I have never paid him, and it is highly improbable that I ever shall. How
+ did this villainy come to occur in a life which has been, generally
+ speaking, deficient in the dexterity necessary for fraud? The story is as
+ follows&mdash;and it has a moral, though there may not be room for that.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that the
+ easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy. The
+ most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities. The
+ reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely with
+ each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint. How, for instance,
+ could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would be called a &ldquo;scuttle&rdquo;? If
+ he has ever seen the word scuttle it has been in the Jingo Press, where
+ the &ldquo;policy of scuttle&rdquo; is used whenever we give up something to a small
+ Power like Liberals, instead of giving up everything to a great Power,
+ like Imperialists. What Englishman in Germany would be poet enough to
+ guess that the Germans call a glove a &ldquo;hand-shoe.&rdquo; Nations name their
+ necessities by nicknames, so to speak. They call their tubs and stools by
+ quaint, elvish, and almost affectionate names, as if they were their own
+ children! But any one can argue about abstract things in a foreign
+ language who has ever got as far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon
+ as he can put a sentence together at all he finds that the words used in
+ abstract or philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations.
+ They are the same, for the simple reason that they all come from the
+ things that were the roots of our common civilisation. From Christianity,
+ from the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church, or the French
+ Revolution. &ldquo;Nation,&rdquo; &ldquo;citizen,&rdquo; &ldquo;religion,&rdquo; &ldquo;philosophy,&rdquo; &ldquo;authority,&rdquo;
+ &ldquo;the Republic,&rdquo; words like these are nearly the same in all the countries
+ in which we travel. Restrain, therefore, your exuberant admiration for the
+ young man who can argue with six French atheists when he first lands at
+ Dieppe. Even I can do that. But very likely the same young man does not
+ know the French for a shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there are
+ three great exceptions. (1) In the case of countries that are not European
+ at all, and have never had our civic conceptions, or the old Latin
+ scholarship. I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for &ldquo;citizenship&rdquo;
+ at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for &ldquo;the Republic&rdquo; has
+ been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of Germany, where,
+ although the principle does apply to many words such as &ldquo;nation&rdquo; and
+ &ldquo;philosophy,&rdquo; it does not apply so generally, because Germany has had a
+ special and deliberate policy of encouraging the purely German part of its
+ language. (3) In the case where one does not know any of the language at
+ all, as is generally the case with me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed my
+ crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned were
+ combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German. I knew,
+ however, two or three of those great and solemn words which hold our
+ European civilisation together&mdash;one of which is &ldquo;cigar.&rdquo; As it was a
+ hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort of beer-garden, and
+ ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the lager, and paid for it. I
+ smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it, and walked away, gazing
+ rapturously at the royal outline of the Taunus mountains. After about ten
+ minutes, I suddenly remembered that I had not paid for the cigar. I went
+ back to the place of refreshment, and put down the money. But the
+ proprietor also had forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural
+ things in a tone of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said
+ &ldquo;cigar,&rdquo; and he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the
+ money to wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that my
+ rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular cigar,
+ and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill, seeking to
+ convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture that my rejection was a
+ rejection of cigars in general, not of that particular article. He mistook
+ this for the ordinary impatience of common men, and rushed forward, his
+ hands filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing them upon me. In
+ desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the more cigars I
+ refused the more and more rare and precious cigars were brought out of the
+ deeps and recesses of the establishment. I tried in vain to think of a way
+ of conveying to him the fact that I had already had the cigar. I imitated
+ the action of a citizen smoking, knocking off and throwing away a cigar.
+ The watchful proprietor only thought I was rehearsing (as in an ecstasy of
+ anticipation) the joys of the cigar he was going to give me. At last I
+ retired baffled: he would not take the money and leave the cigars alone.
+ So that this restaurant-keeper (in whose face a love of money shone like
+ the sun at noonday) flatly and firmly refused to receive the twopence that
+ I certainly owed him; and I took that twopence of his away with me and
+ rioted on it for months. I hope that on the last day the angels will break
+ the truth very gently to that unhappy man.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud, and the moral
+ of it is this&mdash;that civilisation is founded upon abstractions. The
+ idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed by physical motions at all,
+ because it is an abstract idea. And civilisation obviously would be
+ nothing without debt. So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific
+ sociology (which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation is
+ material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves how many of
+ the things that make up our Society, the Law, or the Stocks and Shares, or
+ the National Debt, you would be able to convey with your face and your ten
+ fingers by grinning and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there lies a
+ village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue, but of
+ eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present writer to
+ come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+ owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws and customs
+ have fallen in connection with the seventh day. It is not Puritanism; it
+ is simply anarchy. I should have some sympathy with the Jewish Sabbath, if
+ it were a Jewish Sabbath, and that for three reasons; first, that religion
+ is an intrinsically sympathetic thing; second, that I cannot conceive any
+ religion worth calling a religion without a fixed and material observance;
+ and third, that the particular observance of sitting still and doing no
+ work is one that suits my temperament down to the ground.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it does not let
+ a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him up when it has forced him
+ to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism does not forbid us to ask a man in
+ Battersea to come and talk in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his getting
+ there. I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with joys, with
+ flowers, and fireworks in the old European style. I can understand that a
+ deity might be worshipped with sorrows. But I cannot imagine any deity
+ being worshipped with inconveniences. Let the good Moslem go to Mecca, or
+ let him abide in his tent, according to his feelings for religious
+ symbols. But surely Allah cannot see anything particularly dignified in
+ his servant being misled by the time-table, finding that the old Mecca
+ express is not running, missing his connection at Bagdad, or having to
+ wait three hours in a small side station outside Damascus.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph service
+ at all to this place; I found there was only one weak thread of
+ train-service. Now if this had been the authority of real English
+ religion, I should have submitted to it at once. If I believed that the
+ telegraph clerk could not send the telegram because he was at that moment
+ rigid in an ecstasy of prayer, I should think all telegrams unimportant in
+ comparison. If I could believe that railway porters when relieved from
+ their duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of worship, I should
+ say that all lectures and everything else ought to give way to such a
+ consideration. I should not complain if the national faith forbade me to
+ make any appointments of labour or self-expression on the Sabbath. But, as
+ it is, it only tells me that I may very probably keep the Sabbath by not
+ keeping the appointment.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there was only
+ one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could even get within
+ several hours or several miles of the time or place. I therefore went to
+ the telephone, which is one of my favourite toys, and down which I have
+ shouted many valuable, but prematurely arrested, monologues upon art and
+ morals. I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered that one
+ could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be cut off, but
+ I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days, to the advancement of
+ our national religion. Through this instrument, in fewer words than usual,
+ and with a comparative economy of epigram, I ordered a taxi-cab to take me
+ to the railway station. I have not a word to say in general either against
+ telephones or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two of the purest and most poetic
+ of the creations of modern scientific civilisation. Unfortunately, when
+ the taxi-cab started, it did exactly what modern scientific civilisation
+ has done&mdash;it broke down. The result of this was that when I arrived
+ at King's Cross my only train was gone; there was a Sabbath calm in the
+ station, a calm in the eyes of the porters, and in my breast, if calm at
+ all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my breast on first
+ making the discovery; and it was turned to blinding horror when I learnt
+ that I could not even send a telegram to the organisers of the meeting. To
+ leave my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating; to leave
+ them without any intimation was simply low. I reasoned with the official.
+ I said: &ldquo;Do you really mean to say that if my brother were dying and my
+ mother in this place, I could not communicate with her?&rdquo; He was a man of
+ literal and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was dying. I
+ answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health, but that I
+ was inquiring upon a question of principle. What would happen if England
+ were invaded, or if I alone knew how to turn aside a comet or an
+ earthquake. He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible
+ spirit, but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+ particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element of the
+ outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang up ungovernable,
+ and I decided that I would not be a cad merely because some of my remote
+ ancestors had been Calvinists. I would keep my appointment if I lost all
+ my money and all my wits. I went out into the quiet London street, where
+ my quiet London cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty
+ morning. I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the London
+ driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire. And he did.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful whether, even in a
+ motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+ not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road. I
+ urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started, but he said
+ (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate sense of adventure)
+ that he would rather do it when we arrived&mdash;if we ever did. I was by
+ no means so delicate; I bought a varied selection of pork-pies at a little
+ shop that was open (why was that shop open?&mdash;it is all a mystery),
+ and ate them as we went along. The beginning was sombre and irritating. I
+ was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a baby; with the motor
+ for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday. And the sight of the
+ northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did not decrease, my gloom:
+ Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness in its squalor; Battersea and
+ Camberwell have an indescribable bustle of democracy; but the poor parts
+ of North London... well, perhaps I saw them wrongly under that ashen
+ morning and on that foolish errand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was one of those days which more than once this year broke the retreat
+ of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring. We were already
+ clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace through a
+ borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses, when the grey
+ showed golden patches and a good light began to glitter on everything. The
+ cab went quicker and quicker. The open land whirled wider and wider; but I
+ did not lose my sense of being battled with and thwarted that I had felt
+ in the thronged slums. Rather the feeling increased, because of the great
+ difficulty of space and time. The faster went the car, the fiercer and
+ thicker I felt the fight.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The whole landscape seemed charging at me&mdash;and just missing me. The
+ tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows; the very trees seemed
+ like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving it by a hair's breadth. Across
+ some vast, smooth valley I saw a beech-tree by the white road stand up
+ little and defiant. It grew bigger and bigger with blinding rapidity. It
+ charged me like a tilting knight, seemed to hack at my head, and pass by.
+ Sometimes when we went round a curve of road, the effect was yet more
+ awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill swung round to smite like a
+ boomerang. The sun by this time was a blazing fact; and I saw that all
+ Nature is chivalrous and militant. We do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we
+ should rather seek the nobler sort of war; and see all the trees as green
+ banners.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+ When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided, with evident
+ disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw a veil. When I came
+ back home I was called to the telephone, and a meek voice expressed regret
+ for the failure of the motor-cab, and even said something about any
+ reasonable payment. &ldquo;Whom can I pay for my own superb experience? What is
+ the usual charge for seeing the clouds shattered by the sun? What is the
+ market price of a tree blue on the sky-line and then blinding white in the
+ sun? Mention your price for that windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks
+ in the garden. Let me pay you for...&rdquo; Here it was, I think, that we were
+ cut off.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXVI. The Two Noises
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ For three days and three nights the sea had charged England as Napoleon
+ charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive, because away to the
+ last grey line of the sea there was only the look of galloping squadrons,
+ impetuous, but with a common purpose. The sea came on like cavalry, and
+ when it touched the shore it opened the blazing eyes and deafening tongues
+ of the artillery. I saw the worst assault at night on a seaside parade
+ where the sea smote on the doors of England with the hammers of
+ earthquake, and a white smoke went up into the black heavens. There one
+ could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is. I talk like
+ other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave. But the horrible thing
+ about a wave is its hideous slowness. It lifts its load of water
+ laboriously: in that style at once slow and slippery in which a Titan
+ might lift a load of rock and then let it slip at last to be shattered
+ into shock of dust. In front of me that night the waves were not like
+ water: they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose first as if it
+ did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to attack the stars. For
+ a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a tower; then it went a
+ little wrong in its outline, like a tower that might some day fall. When
+ it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew up.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across the land one
+ of those stiff and throttling winds that one can lean up against like a
+ wall. One expected anything to be blown out of shape at any instant; the
+ lamp-post to be snapped like a green stalk, the tree to be whirled away
+ like a straw. I myself should certainly have been blown out of shape if I
+ had possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked along the edge of
+ the stone embankment above the black and battering sea and could not rid
+ myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England. But as I walked
+ along this edge I was somewhat surprised to find that as I neared a
+ certain spot another noise mingled with the ceaseless cannonade of the
+ sea.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino or place of
+ entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing against the cosmic
+ uproar. I do not know what band it was. Judging from the boisterous
+ British Imperialism of most of the airs it played, I should think it was a
+ German band. But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came
+ quite close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+ things as &ldquo;Tommy Atkins&rdquo; and &ldquo;You Can Depend on Young Australia,&rdquo; and many
+ others of which I do not know the words, but I should think they would be
+ &ldquo;John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,&rdquo; or that fine though unwritten
+ poem, &ldquo;Wait till the Bull Dog gets a bite of you.&rdquo; Now, I for one detest
+ Imperialism, but I have a great deal of sympathy with Jingoism. And there
+ seemed something so touching about this unbroken and innocent bragging
+ under the brutal menace of Nature that it made, if I may so put it, two
+ tunes in my mind. It is so obvious and so jolly to be optimistic about
+ England, especially when you are an optimist&mdash;and an Englishman. But
+ through all that glorious brass came the voice of the invasion, the
+ undertone of that awful sea. I did a foolish thing. As I could not express
+ my meaning in an article, I tried to express it in a poem&mdash;a bad one.
+ You can call it what you like. It might be called &ldquo;Doubt,&rdquo; or &ldquo;Brighton.&rdquo;
+ It might be called &ldquo;The Patriot,&rdquo; or yet again &ldquo;The German Band.&rdquo; I would
+ call it &ldquo;The Two Voices,&rdquo; but that title has been taken for a grossly
+ inferior poem. This is how it began&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ &ldquo;(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps&mdash;you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise&mdash;
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break&mdash;your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there is an English
+ country that the Imperialists have never found. The British Empire may
+ annex what it likes, it will never annex England. It has not even
+ discovered the island, let alone conquered it. I took up the two tunes
+ again with a greater sympathy for the first&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ &ldquo;(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the peril
+ of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England. It is their
+ fault if the last verse was written a little rudely and at random&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ &ldquo;(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute; and as for the
+ German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood in
+ Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and intricate
+ mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the keeping off of
+ the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing. At the moment in
+ question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at a tree, practising (alas,
+ without success) that useful trick of knife-throwing by which men murder
+ each other in Stevenson's romances.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something about
+ their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that reminded me, I know
+ not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy. They asked what the knife was,
+ who I was, why I was throwing it, what my address was, trade, religion,
+ opinions on the Japanese war, name of favourite cat, and so on. They also
+ said I was damaging the tree; which was, I am sorry to say, not true,
+ because I could not hit it. The peculiar philosophical importance,
+ however, of the incident was this. After some half-hour's animated
+ conversation, the exhibition of an envelope, an unfinished poem, which was
+ read with great care, and, I trust, with some profit, and one or two other
+ subtle detective strokes, the elder of the two knights became convinced
+ that I really was what I professed to be, that I was a journalist, that I
+ was on the DAILY NEWS (this was the real stroke; they were shaken with a
+ terror common to all tyrants), that I lived in a particular place as
+ stated, and that I was stopping with particular people in Yorkshire, who
+ happened to be wealthy and well-known in the neighbourhood.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary at last
+ that he ended up by representing himself as a reader of my work. And when
+ that was said, everything was settled. They acquitted me and let me pass.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue of that
+ Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like knight-errants. You,
+ the higher humanitarians, are not deceived by the seeming stillness of the
+ green things, a stillness like the stillness of the cataract, a headlong
+ and crashing silence. You know that a tree is but a creature tied to the
+ ground by one leg. You will not let assassins with their Swedish daggers
+ shed the green blood of such a being. But if so, why am I not in custody;
+ where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your persons, my mouldy
+ straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have just convinced you,
+ that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist, that I am living with
+ the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank of Ilkley, cannot have anything
+ to do with the question of whether I have been guilty of cruelty to
+ vegetables. The tree is none the less damaged even though it may reflect
+ with a dark pride that it was wounded by a gentleman connected with the
+ Liberal press. Wounds in the bark do not more rapidly close up because
+ they are inflicted by people who are stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley.
+ That tree, the ruin of its former self, the wreck of what was once a giant
+ of the forest, now splintered and laid low by the brute superiority of a
+ Swedish knife, that tragedy, constable, cannot be wiped out even by
+ stopping for several months more with some wealthy person. It is
+ incredible that you have no legal claim to arrest even the most august and
+ fashionable persons on this charge. For if so, why did you interfere with
+ me at all?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood, for
+ the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came. It is very
+ possible, of course, that they were fairies. In that case the somewhat
+ illogical character of their view of crime, law, and personal
+ responsibility would find a bright and elfish explanation; perhaps if I
+ had lingered in the glade till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny
+ policemen dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+ arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass. But taking the bolder
+ hypothesis, that they really were policemen, I find myself in a certain
+ difficulty. I was certainly accused of something which was either an
+ offence or was not. I was let off because I proved I was a guest at a big
+ house. The inference seems painfully clear; either it is not a proof of
+ infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood, or else it is a proof of
+ innocence to know a rich man. Suppose a very poor person, poorer even than
+ a journalist, a navvy or unskilled labourer, tramping in search of work,
+ often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps, failing in his rent. Suppose
+ he had been intoxicated with the green gaiety of the ancient wood. Suppose
+ he had thrown knives at trees and could give no description of a
+ dwelling-place except that he had been fired out of the last. As I walked
+ home through a cloudy and purple twilight I wondered how he would have got
+ on.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical; there is
+ no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil in the fact that
+ people always brag about their vices; it is when they begin to brag about
+ their virtues that they become insufferable. But there is this to be said,
+ that illogicality in your constitution or your legal methods may become
+ very dangerous if there happens to be some great national vice or national
+ temptation which many take advantage of the chaos. Similarly, a drunkard
+ ought to have strict rules and hours; a temperate man may obey his
+ instincts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take some absurd anomaly in the British law&mdash;the fact, for instance,
+ that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the Chiltern
+ Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally to keep down
+ some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is. Obviously this kind of
+ illogicality does not matter very much, for the simple reason that there
+ is no great temptation to take advantage of it. Men retiring from
+ Parliament do not have any furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills.
+ But if there were a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable
+ politicians taking leave of public life would desire to do this (if, for
+ instance, there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on saying
+ that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact) Sir
+ Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day and taking
+ their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality would matter,
+ for it would have become an excuse for indulgence. It is only the very
+ good who can live riotous lives.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation such
+ as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great national
+ sin, a far greater sin than drink&mdash;the habit of respecting a
+ gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry. And
+ snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil, that it is
+ rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts and houses. But it is
+ our great English vice; to be watched more fiercely than small-pox. If a
+ man wished to hear the worst and wickedest thing in England summed up in
+ casual English words, he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald
+ quarrelling. He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working
+ man, when he wishes to praise any one, calls him &ldquo;a gentleman.&rdquo; It never
+ occurs to him that he might as well call him &ldquo;a marquis,&rdquo; or &ldquo;a privy
+ councillor&rdquo;&mdash;that he is simply naming a rank or class, not a phrase
+ for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a shameful admiration,
+ must, and, I think, does, constantly come in and distort and poison our
+ police methods.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch upon
+ ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest, is
+ increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people, without this
+ temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and systems to
+ guard themselves against the power of our great financiers. But that is
+ because a very just people would have shot them long ago, from mere native
+ good feeling.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXVIII. The Lion
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+ talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+ man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+ lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+ When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his first
+ feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town or village; when
+ he looks again he sees that this comparative absence of the picturesque is
+ chiefly expressed in the plain, precipitous frontage of the houses
+ standing up hard and flat out of the street like the cardboard houses in a
+ pantomime&mdash;a hard angularity allied perhaps to the harshness of
+ French logic. When he looks a third time he sees quite simply that it is
+ all because the houses have no front gardens. The vague English spirit
+ loves to have the entrance to its house softened by bushes and broken by
+ steps. It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges half in the house and
+ half out of it; a green room in a double sense. The Frenchman desires no
+ such little pathetic ramparts or halting places, for the street itself is
+ a thing natural and familiar to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's front
+ garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains. The street
+ is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street. It is his
+ dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his British Museum, for the
+ statues and monuments in French streets are not, as with us, of the worst,
+ but of the best, art of the country, and they are often actually as
+ historical as the Pyramids. The street again is the Frenchman's
+ Parliament, for France has never taken its Chamber of Deputies so
+ seriously as we take our House of Commons, and the quibbles of mere
+ elected nonentities in an official room seem feeble to a people whose
+ fathers have heard the voice of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open
+ heaven, or Victor Hugo shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the
+ second Republic. And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in
+ the street so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so that
+ the street can never be commonplace to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London a
+ lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated gentleman
+ embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship. But in Paris a lamp-post
+ is a tragic thing. For we think of tyrants hanged on it, and of an end of
+ the world. There is, or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris called LA
+ LANTERNE. How funny it would be if there were a Progressive paper in
+ England called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the Frenchman is
+ the man in the street; that he can dine in the street, and die in the
+ street. And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going to bed in the
+ street, I shall say that he is still true to the genius of his
+ civilisation. All that is good and all that is evil in France is alike
+ connected with this open-air element. French democracy and French
+ indecency are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+ Compared to a café, a public-house is a private house.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through the mind
+ in the streets of this especial town of Belfort. First of all, it lies
+ close upon the boundary of France and Germany, and boundaries are the most
+ beautiful things in the world. To love anything is to love its boundaries;
+ thus children will always play on the edge of anything. They build castles
+ on the edge of the sea, and can only be restrained by public proclamation
+ and private violence from walking on the edge of the grass. For when we
+ have come to the end of a thing we have come to the beginning of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very margin of
+ Germany, and although there were many German touches in the place&mdash;German
+ names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical barmaids dressed up in
+ outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants&mdash;yet the fixed French
+ colour seemed all the stronger for these specks of something else. All day
+ long and all night long troops of dusty, swarthy, scornful little soldiers
+ went plodding through the streets with an air of stubborn disgust, for
+ German soldiers look as if they despised you, but French soldiers as if
+ they despised you and themselves even more than you. It is a part, I
+ suppose, of the realism of the nation which has made it good at war and
+ science and other things in which what is necessary is combined with what
+ is nasty. And the soldiers and the civilians alike had most of them
+ cropped hair, and that curious kind of head which to an Englishman looks
+ almost brutal, the kind that we call a bullet-head. Indeed, we are
+ speaking very appropriately when we call it a bullet-head, for in
+ intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen have been bullets&mdash;yes,
+ and explosive bullets.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+ particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art of the French.
+ For this town of Belfort is famous for one of the most typical and
+ powerful of the public monuments of France. From the café table at which I
+ sit I can see the hill beyond the town on which hangs the high and
+ flat-faced citadel, pierced with many windows, and warmed in the evening
+ light. On the steep hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself as large as
+ a hill. It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic impression.
+ No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common statue; no
+ attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish the monster
+ minutely from the earth out of which he rises, shaking the world. The face
+ of the lion has something of the bold conventionality of Assyrian art. The
+ mane of the lion is left like a shapeless cloud of tempest, as if it might
+ literally be said of him that God had clothed his neck with thunder. Even
+ at this distance the thing looks vast, and in some sense prehistoric. Yet
+ it was carved only a little while ago. It commemorates the fact that this
+ town was never taken by the Germans through all the terrible year, but
+ only laid down its arms at last at the command of its own Government. But
+ the spirit of it has been in this land from the beginning&mdash;the spirit
+ of something defiant and almost defeated.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+ thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame, and
+ that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern battle of
+ the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the last sign of
+ France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at bay, the last
+ sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident, the
+ City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble cut
+ out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris and its
+ history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance and
+ justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure; but it
+ may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of roses is
+ also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others, but quite
+ ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion, they are
+ martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality. For the
+ indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort which
+ charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts; they are
+ torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life with the
+ same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence. The enemies
+ of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay which does not
+ seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which the
+ Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and torment
+ themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves. Thus,
+ when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself, it made a
+ sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is the same from
+ the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola. The old
+ religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth. The new realists
+ torture men morally for a physical truth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain. Its
+ indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an everlasting revolution. It
+ has none of the things which make good Frenchmen love Paris; it has only
+ the things which make unspeakable Englishmen love it. It has the part
+ which is cosmopolitan&mdash;and narrows; not the part which is Parisian&mdash;and
+ universal. You can find there (as commonly happens in modern centres) the
+ worst things of all nations&mdash;the DAILY MAIL from England, the cheap
+ philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of France, and the drinks of
+ America. But there is no English broad fun, no German kindly ceremony, no
+ American exhilaration, and, above all, no French tradition of fighting for
+ an idea. Though all the boulevards look like Parisian boulevards, though
+ all the shops look like Parisian shops, you cannot look at them steadily
+ for two minutes without feeling the full distance between, let us say,
+ King Leopold and fighters like Clemenceau and Deroulède.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I began
+ to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again; and I had
+ impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of the city. In
+ this tram there were two men talking; one was a little man with a black
+ French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy whiskers, like the
+ financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And about the time that we
+ reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic grew thinner, and the
+ noises more few, I began to hear what they were saying. Though they spoke
+ French quickly, their words were fairly easy to follow, because they were
+ all long words. Anybody can understand long words because they have in
+ them all the lucidity of Latin.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man with the black beard said: &ldquo;It must that we have the Progress.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying: &ldquo;It must also
+ that we have the Consolidation International.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened with some
+ care, and I think I picked up the thread of it. One of the Belgians was a
+ Little Belgian, as we speak of a Little Englander. The other was a Belgian
+ Imperialist, for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be
+ altogether a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire. Being a
+ nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being an empire only
+ means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers was the Imperialist,
+ and he was saying: &ldquo;The science, behold there the new guide of humanity.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And the man with the beard answered him: &ldquo;It does not suffice to have
+ progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment of the
+ human justice.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much too
+ keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard in
+ England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast. Though
+ Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French. Whiskers
+ was great on education, which, it seems, is on the march. All the world
+ goes to make itself instructed. It must that the more instructed enlighten
+ the less instructed. Eh, well then, the European must impose upon the
+ savage the science and the light. Also (apparently) he must impose himself
+ on the savage while he is about it. To-day one travelled quickly. The
+ science had changed all. For our fathers, they were religious, and (what
+ was worse) dead. To-day humanity had electricity to the hand; the machines
+ came from triumphing; all the lines and limits of the globe effaced
+ themselves. Soon there would not be but the great Empires and
+ confederations, guided by the science, always the science.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with the
+ sentiment for human justice had &ldquo;la parole&rdquo; off him in a flash. Without
+ doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments, the ideal,
+ the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself towards Humanity.
+ For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation, what were they in
+ effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the barbarism? The Empires
+ were they not things savage? The Humanity had passed all that; she was now
+ intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all human souls with the sentiments the
+ most delicate and just. Man was become a spirit; the wings pushed....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+ and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it was
+ almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not dream of
+ getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging fascination of
+ this great controversy on Humanity and its recent complete alteration by
+ science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven knows where. I dropped
+ hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on without me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city. On one side of
+ the road was one of those small, thin woods which are common in all
+ countries, but of which, by a coincidence, the mystical painters of
+ Flanders were very fond. The night was closing in with cloudy purple and
+ grey; there was one ribbon of silver, the last rag of the sunset. Through
+ the wood went one little path, and somehow it suggested that it might lead
+ to some sign of life&mdash;there was no other sign of life on the horizon.
+ I went along it, and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight of all
+ those tiny trees. There is something subtle and bewildering about that
+ sort of frail and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems like a
+ bodily barrier; but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a spiritual
+ barrier. It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could not pass a
+ phantom. When I had well lost the last gleam of the high road a curious
+ and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly felt something much more
+ practical and extraordinary&mdash;the absence of humanity: inhuman
+ loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost in my state; but the
+ mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men&mdash;any men; and I felt our
+ awful alliance over all the globe. And at last, when I had walked for what
+ seemed a long time, I saw a light too near the earth to mean anything
+ except the image of God.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door of which was
+ open, but was blocked by a big grey horse, who seemed to prefer to eat
+ with his head inside the sitting-room. I got past him, and found he was
+ being fed by a young man who was sitting down and drinking beer inside,
+ and who saluted me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange tongue.
+ The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I traced at length
+ as belonging to about six small children. Their father was still working
+ in the fields, but their mother rose when I entered. She smiled, but she
+ and all the rest spoke some rude language, Flamand, I suppose; so that we
+ had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched me beer, and pointed
+ out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture to please the children;
+ and as it was a picture of two men hitting each other with swords, it
+ pleased them very much. Then I gave a Belgian penny to each child, for as
+ I said on chance in French, &ldquo;It must be that we have the economic
+ equality.&rdquo; But they had never heard of economic equality, while all
+ Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality, though it is true that
+ they haven't got it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually saw
+ in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying, one that Science
+ had changed all in Humanity, and the other that Humanity was now pushing
+ the wings of the purely intellectual. But for me Humanity was hooked on to
+ an accidental picture. I thought of a low and lonely house in the flats,
+ behind a veil or film of slight trees, a man breaking the ground as men
+ have broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse champing his
+ food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable where Christ was
+ born.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXX. The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that in a few hours I
+ should be in England, my eye fell upon one of the details of Gothic
+ carving of which Flanders is full. I do not know whether the thing is old,
+ though it was certainly knocked about and indecipherable, but at least it
+ was certainly in the style and tradition of the early Middle Ages. It
+ seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say twisting
+ themselves) to certain primary employments. Some seemed to be sailors
+ tugging at ropes; others, I think, were reaping; others were energetically
+ pouring something into something else. This is entirely characteristic of
+ the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth century, perhaps the
+ most purely vigorous time in all history. The great Greeks preferred to
+ carve their gods and heroes doing nothing. Splendid and philosophic as
+ their composure is there is always about it something that marks the
+ master of many slaves. But if there was one thing the early mediaevals
+ liked it was representing people doing something&mdash;hunting or hawking,
+ or rowing boats, or treading grapes, or making shoes, or cooking something
+ in a pot. &ldquo;Quicquid agunt homines, votum, timor, ira voluptas.&rdquo; (I quote
+ from memory.) The Middle Ages is full of that spirit in all its monuments
+ and manuscripts. Chaucer retains it in his jolly insistence on everybody's
+ type of trade and toil. It was the earliest and youngest resurrection of
+ Europe, the time when social order was strengthening, but had not yet
+ become oppressive; the time when religious faiths were strong, but had not
+ yet been exasperated. For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic
+ carving is different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often
+ reining their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever at
+ that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving seems actually a
+ sort of bustle or hubbub in stone. Sometimes one cannot help feeling that
+ the groups actually move and mix, and the whole front of a great cathedral
+ has the hum of a huge hive.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity of which I
+ could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads had very curious
+ heads, and it seemed to me that they had their mouths open. Whether or no
+ this really meant anything or was an accident of nascent art I do not
+ know; but in the course of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that
+ singing was connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+ were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes. I was still
+ thinking about this small problem when I walked along the pier at Ostend;
+ and I heard some sailors uttering a measured shout as they laboured, and I
+ remembered that sailors still sing in chorus while they work, and even
+ sing different songs according to what part of their work they are doing.
+ And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was over, the sight of
+ men working in the English fields reminded me again that there are still
+ songs for harvest and for many agricultural routines. And I suddenly
+ wondered why if this were so it should be quite unknown, for any modern
+ trade to have a ritual poetry. How did people come to chant rude poems
+ while pulling certain ropes or gathering certain fruit, and why did nobody
+ do anything of the kind while producing any of the modern things? Why is a
+ modern newspaper never printed by people singing in chorus? Why do shopmen
+ seldom, if ever, sing?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while auditing
+ and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all the separate things
+ that have to be done in a boat, why are there not songs for all the
+ separate things that have to be done in a bank? As the train from Dover
+ flew through the Kentish gardens, I tried to write a few songs suitable
+ for commercial gentlemen. Thus, the work of bank clerks when casting up
+ columns might begin with a thundering chorus in praise of Simple Addition.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er. Hear the Stars
+ of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.' Though the creeds and realms
+ are reeling, though the sophists roar, Though we weep and pawn our
+ watches, Two and Two are Four.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;There's a run upon the Bank&mdash;Stand away! For the Manager's a crank
+ and the Secretary drank, and the
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+ Stand close: there is a run
+ On the Bank.
+ Of our ship, our royal one, let the ringing legend run,
+ That she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank.&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine who actually
+ is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions in rhyme to him for use
+ among his colleagues. But he was not very hopeful about the matter. It was
+ not (he assured me) that he underrated the verses, or in any sense
+ lamented their lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an indefinable
+ something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we live that
+ makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks. And I think he must be
+ right; though the matter is very mysterious. I may observe here that I
+ think there must be some mistake in the calculations of the Socialists.
+ They put down all our distress, not to a moral tone, but to the chaos of
+ private enterprise. Now, banks are private; but post-offices are
+ Socialistic: therefore I naturally expected that the post-office would
+ fall into the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of my surprise when the
+ lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing) dismissed the idea
+ with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done. She seemed indeed, to
+ be in a considerably greater state of depression than he. Should any one
+ suppose that this was the effect of the verses themselves, it is only fair
+ to say that the specimen verse of the Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park.&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully certain it
+ seemed that the most important and typical modern things could not be done
+ with a chorus. One could not, for instance, be a great financier and sing;
+ because the essence of being a great financier is that you keep quiet. You
+ could not even in many modern circles be a public man and sing; because in
+ those circles the essence of being a public man is that you do nearly
+ everything in private. Nobody would imagine a chorus of money-lenders.
+ Every one knows the story of the solicitors' corps of volunteers who, when
+ the Colonel on the battlefield cried &ldquo;Charge!&rdquo; all said simultaneously,
+ &ldquo;Six-and-eightpence.&rdquo; Men can sing while charging in a military, but
+ hardly in a legal sense. And at the end of my reflections I had really got
+ no further than the sub-conscious feeling of my friend the bank-clerk&mdash;that
+ there is something spiritually suffocating about our life; not about our
+ laws merely, but about our life. Bank-clerks are without songs, not
+ because they are poor, but because they are sad. Sailors are much poorer.
+ As I passed homewards I passed a little tin building of some religious
+ sort, which was shaken with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own
+ tongue. THEY were singing anyhow; and I had for an instant a fancy I had
+ often had before: that with us the super-human is the only place where you
+ can find the human. Human nature is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday, a friend
+ walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded with half-packed
+ luggage.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You seem to be off on your travels,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Where are you going?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With a strap between my teeth I replied, &ldquo;To Battersea.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The wit of your remark,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;wholly escapes me.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am going to Battersea,&rdquo; I repeated, &ldquo;to Battersea viâ Paris, Belfort,
+ Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained simply
+ the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once more I
+ find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise, somewhere
+ in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little island which
+ I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great white cliffs.
+ Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch travellers tell me
+ that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour that somewhere in the
+ heart of it there is a beautiful place called Battersea.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you,&rdquo; said my friend, with an air of
+ intellectual comparison, &ldquo;that this is Battersea?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is quite unnecessary,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;and it is spiritually untrue. I cannot
+ see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or any England. I cannot
+ see that door. I cannot see that chair: because a cloud of sleep and
+ custom has come across my eyes. The only way to get back to them is to go
+ somewhere else; and that is the real object of travel and the real
+ pleasure of holidays. Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see
+ France? Do you suppose that I go to Germany in order to see Germany? I
+ shall enjoy them both; but it is not them that I am seeking. I am seeking
+ Battersea. The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land;
+ it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land. Now I
+ warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and heavy, and that if you
+ utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your head. I did not make the
+ world, and I did not make it paradoxical. It is not my fault, it is the
+ truth, that the only way to go to England is to go away from it.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back to England, I
+ was startled to find that I had told the exact truth. England did break on
+ me at once beautifully new and beautifully old. To land at Dover is the
+ right way to approach England (most things that are hackneyed are right),
+ for then you see first the full, soft gardens of Kent, which are, perhaps,
+ an exaggeration, but still a typical exaggeration, of the rich rusticity
+ of England. As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with whom I had
+ fallen into conversation felt the same freshness, though for another
+ cause. She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had never yet
+ seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm in that simple and splendid
+ way which is natural to Americans, who are the most idealistic people in
+ the whole world. Their only danger is that the idealist can easily become
+ the idolator. And the American has become so idealistic that he even
+ idealises money. But (to quote a very able writer of American short
+ stories) that is another story.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have never been in England before,&rdquo; said the American lady, &ldquo;yet it is
+ so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it for a long time.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;So you have,&rdquo; I said; &ldquo;you have been away for three hundred years.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What a lot of ivy you have,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;It covers the churches and it
+ buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it grow like that.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am interested to hear it,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;for I am making a little list of
+ all the things that are really better in England. Even a month on the
+ Continent, combined with intelligence, will teach you that there are many
+ things that are better abroad. All the things that the DAILY MAIL calls
+ English are better abroad. But there are things entirely English and
+ entirely good. Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front gardens,
+ and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom cabs, and
+ cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy and holy
+ custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that Shakespeare
+ began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman or a German. Surely
+ he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a light bursts upon me; for the
+ first time I see the real meaning of Mrs. Gallup and the Great Cipher. It
+ is merely a mistake in the matter of a capital letter. I withdraw my
+ objections; I accept everything; bacon did write Shakespeare.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I cannot look at anything but the ivy,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;it looks so
+ comfortable.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many weeks an
+ English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour in which he said
+ that the House of Lords ought to be preserved because it represented
+ something in the nature of permanent public opinion of England, above the
+ ebb and flow of the parties. Now Mr. Balfour is a perfectly sincere
+ patriot, a man who, from his own point of view, thinks long and seriously
+ about the public needs, and he is, moreover, a man of entirely
+ exceptionable intellectual power. But alas, in spite of all this, when I
+ had read that speech I thought with a heavy heart that there was one more
+ thing that I had to add to the list of the specially English things, such
+ as kippers and cricket; I had to add the specially English kind of humbug.
+ In France things are attacked and defended for what they are. The Catholic
+ Church is attacked because it is Catholic, and defended because it is
+ Catholic. The Republic is defended because it is Republican, and attacked
+ because it is Republican. But here is the ablest of English politicians
+ consoling everybody by telling them that the House of Lords is not really
+ the House of Lords, but something quite different, that the foolish
+ accidental peers whom he meets every night are in some mysterious way
+ experts upon the psychology of the democracy; that if you want to know
+ what the very poor want you must ask the very rich, and that if you want
+ the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it at Hatfield. If the
+ Conservative defender of the House of Lords were a logical French
+ politician he would simply be a liar. But being an English politician he
+ is simply a poet. The English love of believing that all is as it should
+ be, the English optimism combined with the strong English imagination, is
+ too much even for the obvious facts. In a cold, scientific sense, of
+ course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly all the Lords who are not Lords by
+ accident are Lords by bribery. He knows, and (as Mr. Belloc excellently
+ said) everybody in Parliament knows the very names of the peers who have
+ purchased their peerages. But the glamour of comfort, the pleasure of
+ reassuring himself and reassuring others, is too strong for this original
+ knowledge; at last it fades from him, and he sincerely and earnestly calls
+ on Englishmen to join with him in admiring an august and public-spirited
+ Senate, having wholly forgotten that the Senate really consists of idiots
+ whom he has himself despised; and adventurers whom he has himself
+ ennobled.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick,&rdquo; said the American lady, &ldquo;it
+ seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical thing in
+ England.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It is very beautiful,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;and, as you say, it is very English.
+ Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England, wrote one of
+ his rare poems about the beauty of ivy. Yes, by all means let us admire
+ the ivy, so deep, so warm, so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque
+ tenderness. Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+ that it may not kill the tree.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXII. The Travellers in State
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was a train
+ going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it. And while I
+ was running along the train (amid general admiration) I noticed that there
+ were a quite peculiar and unusual number of carriages marked &ldquo;Engaged.&rdquo; On
+ five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages was pasted the little notice: at
+ five, six, seven, eight, nine windows were big bland men staring out in
+ the conscious pride of possession. Their bodies seemed more than usually
+ impenetrable, their faces more than usual placid. It could not be the
+ Derby, if only for the minor reasons that it was the opposite direction
+ and the wrong day. It could hardly be the King. It could hardly be the
+ French President. For, though these distinguished persons naturally like
+ to be private for three hours, they are at least public for three minutes.
+ A crowd can gather to see them step into the train; and there was no crowd
+ here, or any police ceremonial.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train than a
+ bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious and delicate than the
+ King's own suite? Who were these that were larger than a mob, yet more
+ mysterious than a monarch? Was it possible that instead of our Royal House
+ visiting the Tsar, he was really visiting us? Or does the House of Lords
+ have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train slowed down at
+ some station in the direction of Cambridge. Then the large, impenetrable
+ men got out, and after them got out the distinguished holders of the
+ engaged seats. They were all dressed decorously in one colour; they had
+ neatly cropped hair; and they were chained together.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our eyes met.
+ He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt, a native
+ of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there, such as a
+ journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make conversation I
+ said I wondered where the convicts were going. His mouth twitched with the
+ instinctive irony of our poor, and he said: &ldquo;I don't s'pose they're goin'
+ on an 'oliday at the seaside with little spades and pails.&rdquo; I was
+ naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein of literary invention, I
+ suggested that perhaps dons were taken down to Cambridge chained together
+ like this. And as he lived in Cambridge, and had seen several dons, he was
+ pleased with such a scheme. Then when we had ceased to laugh, we suddenly
+ became quite silent; and the bleak, grey eyes of the little man grew
+ sadder and emptier than an open sea. I knew what he was thinking, because
+ I was thinking the same, because all modern sophists are only sophists,
+ and there is such a thing as mankind. Then at last (and it fell in as
+ exactly as the right last note of a tune one is trying to remember) he
+ said: &ldquo;Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it.&rdquo; And in those three things, his
+ first speech and his silence and his second speech, there were all the
+ three great fundamental facts of the English democracy, its profound sense
+ of humour, its profound sense of pathos, and its profound sense of
+ helplessness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+ (like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out. For every
+ practical purpose of a political state, for every practical purpose of a
+ tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted. At a tea-party it is
+ equally obvious that he that exalteth himself must be abased, if possible
+ without bodily violence. Now people talk of democracy as being coarse and
+ turbulent: it is a self-evident error in mere history. Aristocracy is the
+ thing that is always coarse and turbulent: for it means appealing to the
+ self-confident people. Democracy means appealing to the different people.
+ Democracy means getting those people to vote who would never have the
+ cheek to govern: and (according to Christian ethics) the precise people
+ who ought to govern are the people who have not the cheek to do it. There
+ is a strong example of this truth in my friend in the train. The only two
+ types we hear of in this argument about crime and punishment are two very
+ rare and abnormal types.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no problem
+ at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything: as if one need only
+ pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible. This mere belief in bodily
+ humanitarianism is not sentimental; it is simply snobbish. For if comfort
+ gives men virtue, the comfortable classes ought to be virtuous&mdash;which
+ is absurd. Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and more watery type
+ of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who says, with a sort of
+ splutter, &ldquo;Flog the brutes!&rdquo; or who tells you with innocent obscenity
+ &ldquo;what he would do&rdquo; with a certain man&mdash;always supposing the man's
+ hands were tied.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak and
+ unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental humanitarian
+ and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears in the modern babel. Yet
+ you very rarely meet either of them in a train. You never meet anyone else
+ in a controversy. The man you meet in a train is like this man that I met:
+ he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually doubtful. So far from
+ luxuriating in the loathsome things that could be &ldquo;done&rdquo; to criminals, he
+ feels bitterly how much better it would be if nothing need be done. But
+ something must be done. &ldquo;I s'pose we 'ave to do it.&rdquo; In short, he is
+ simply a sane man, and of a sane man there is only one safe definition. He
+ is a man who can have tragedy in his heart and comedy in his head.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem of the proper
+ treatment of criminals is that both parties discuss the matter without any
+ direct human feeling. The denouncers of wrong are as cold as the
+ organisers of wrong. Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging arranged in our
+ modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its scientific paraphernalia, the
+ photographing, the medical attendance, prove that it goes to the last foul
+ limit of the boot and rack. The cat is simply the rack without any of its
+ intellectual reasons. Holding this view strongly, I open the ordinary
+ humanitarian books or papers and I find a phrase like this, &ldquo;The lash is a
+ relic of barbarism.&rdquo; So is the plough. So is the fishing net. So is the
+ horn or the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an inexpressibly feeble
+ phrase for anything one wants to attack&mdash;a relic of barbarism! It is
+ as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow, and we said that his
+ clothes were not quite in the latest fashion. There is nothing
+ particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism. Man is a relic of
+ barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is simply
+ a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called a relic
+ of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate when
+ everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was detailed
+ exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous sixteenth
+ century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years before the
+ Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this day. This is,
+ first and last, the frightful thing we must remember. In so far as we grow
+ instructed and refined we are not (in any sense whatever) naturally moving
+ away from torture. We may be moving towards torture. We must know what we
+ are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous secret cruelty which has
+ crowned every historic civilisation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields. They have
+ taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they have done with them.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not think so;
+ he did not think so because he himself was even more modern than the
+ railway station. He did not think so because he was himself feverish,
+ irritable, and snorting like an engine. He could not value the ancient
+ silence of the railway station.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;In a railway station,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;you are in a hurry, and therefore,
+ miserable&rdquo;; but you need not be either unless you are as modern as Ruskin.
+ The true philosopher does not think of coming just in time for his train
+ except as a bet or a joke.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be late for
+ the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway station much of
+ the quietude and consolation of a cathedral. It has many of the
+ characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building; it has vast arches,
+ void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all, it has recurrence or ritual.
+ It is dedicated to the celebration of water and fire the two prime
+ elements of all human ceremonial. Lastly, a station resembles the old
+ religions rather than the new religions in this point, that people go
+ there. In connection with this it should also be remembered that all
+ popular places, all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain the
+ best routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or machines
+ used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly or
+ completely by common people as they are by fashionable people. Ruskin
+ could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the Underground
+ Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations. The great palaces
+ of pleasure which the rich build in London all have brazen and vulgar
+ names. Their names are either snobbish, like the Hotel Cecil, or (worse
+ still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole. But when I go in a
+ third-class carriage from the nearest circle station to Battersea to the
+ nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names of the stations are
+ one long litany of solemn and saintly memories. Leaving Victoria I come to
+ a park belonging especially to St. James the Apostle; thence I go to
+ Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes to the awful Abbey; Charing
+ Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom; the next station is called a
+ Temple; and Blackfriars remembers the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million feet of the
+ crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear down old things by sheer
+ walking. But the educated kick them down out of sheer culture.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty railway station,
+ where I have no business of any kind. I have extracted a vast number of
+ chocolates from automatic machines; I have obtained cigarettes, toffee,
+ scent, and other things that I dislike by the same machinery; I have
+ weighed myself, with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+ healthiness of popular things, but of their essential antiquity and
+ permanence, is still in possession of my mind. I wander up to the
+ bookstall, and my faith survives even the wild spectacle of modern
+ literature and journalism. Even in the crudest and most clamorous aspects
+ of the newspaper world I still prefer the popular to the proud and
+ fastidious. If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and taking
+ in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should certainly
+ cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL. Even mere bigness
+ preached in a frivolous way is not so irritating as mere meanness preached
+ in a big and solemn way. People buy the DAILY MAIL, but they do not
+ believe in it. They do believe in the TIMES, and (apparently) they do not
+ buy it. But the more the output of paper upon the modern world is actually
+ studied, the more it will be found to be in all its essentials ancient and
+ human, like the name of Charing Cross. Linger for two or three hours at a
+ station bookstall (as I am doing), and you will find that it gradually
+ takes on the grandeur and historic allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian
+ Library. The novelty is all superficial; the tradition is all interior and
+ profound. The DAILY MAIL has new editions, but never a new idea.
+ Everything in a newspaper that is not the old human love of altar or
+ fatherland is the old human love of gossip. Modern writers have often made
+ game of the old chronicles because they chiefly record accidents and
+ prodigies; a church struck by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do
+ not seem to realise that this old barbaric history is the same as new
+ democratic journalism. It is not that the savage chronicle has
+ disappeared. It is merely that the savage chronicle now appears every
+ morning.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+ caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me. On the
+ outside of a book I saw written in large letters, &ldquo;Get On or Get Out.&rdquo; The
+ title of the book recalled to me with a sudden revolt and reaction all
+ that does seem unquestionably new and nasty; it reminded me that there was
+ in the world of to-day that utterly idiotic thing, a worship of success; a
+ thing that only means surpassing anybody in anything; a thing that may
+ mean being the most successful person in running away from a battle; a
+ thing that may mean being the most successfully sleepy of the whole row of
+ sleeping men. When I saw those words the silence and sanctity of the
+ railway station were for the moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at
+ any rate something anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate,
+ means the most disgusting individualism of this individualistic world. In
+ the fury of my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book, thereby
+ ensuring that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it prepared to
+ find some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be an exception to
+ the general silence and sanctity of the railway station. I was prepared to
+ find something in the book that was as infamous as its title.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding to the furious
+ decisiveness of the remarks on the cover. After reading it carefully I
+ could not discover whether I was really to get on or to get out; but I had
+ a vague feeling that I should prefer to get out. A considerable part of
+ the book, particularly towards the end, was concerned with a detailed
+ description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte. Undoubtedly Napoleon got
+ on. He also got out. But I could not discover in any way how the details
+ of his life given here were supposed to help a person aiming at success.
+ One anecdote described how Napoleon always wiped his pen on his
+ knee-breeches. I suppose the moral is: always wipe your pen on your
+ knee-breeches, and you will win the battle of Wagram. Another story told
+ that he let loose a gazelle among the ladies of his Court. Clearly the
+ brutal practical inference is&mdash;loose a gazelle among the ladies of
+ your acquaintance, and you will be Emperor of the French. Get on with a
+ gazelle or get out. The book entirely reconciled me to the soft twilight
+ of the station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a symbolic division
+ which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are vertebrates; they
+ have their softness on the surface and their toughness in the middle. But
+ these modern cowards are all crustaceans; their hardness is all on the
+ cover and their softness is inside. But the softness is there; everything
+ in this twilight temple is soft.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXIV. The Diabolist
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element of truth.
+ Things that really happened have been mentioned, such as meeting President
+ Kruger or being thrown out of a cab. What I have now to relate really
+ happened; yet there was no element in it of practical politics or of
+ personal danger. It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with
+ another man. But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible
+ thing that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long ago
+ that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue, only of its
+ main questions and answers; but there is one sentence in it for which I
+ can answer absolutely and word for word. It was a sentence so awful that I
+ could not forget it if I would. It was the last sentence spoken; and it
+ was not spoken to me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school. An art school
+ is different from almost all other schools or colleges in this respect:
+ that, being of new and crude creation and of lax discipline, it presents a
+ specially strong contrast between the industrious and the idle. People at
+ an art school either do an atrocious amount of work or do no work at all.
+ I belonged, along with other charming people, to the latter class; and
+ this threw me often into the society of men who were very different from
+ myself, and who were idle for reasons very different from mine. I was idle
+ because I was very much occupied; I was engaged about that time in
+ discovering, to my own extreme and lasting astonishment, that I was not an
+ atheist. But there were others also at loose ends who were engaged in
+ discovering what Carlyle called (I think with needless delicacy) the fact
+ that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+ representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are two
+ very curious things which the critic of human life may observe. The first
+ is the fact that there is one real difference between men and women; that
+ women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk in threes. The
+ second is that when you find (as you often do) three young cads and idiots
+ going about together and getting drunk together every day you generally
+ find that one of the three cads and idiots is (for some extraordinary
+ reason) not a cad and not an idiot. In these small groups devoted to a
+ drivelling dissipation there is almost always one man who seems to have
+ condescended to his company; one man who, while he can talk a foul
+ triviality with his fellows, can also talk politics with a Socialist, or
+ philosophy with a Catholic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange, perhaps,
+ that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger still, perhaps,
+ that he liked my society. For hours of the day he would talk with me about
+ Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours of the night he would go where I
+ have no wish to follow him, even in speculation. He was a man with a long,
+ ironical face, and close and red hair; he was by class a gentleman, and
+ could walk like one, but preferred, for some reason, to walk like a groom
+ carrying two pails. He looked like a sort of Super-jockey; as if some
+ archangel had gone on the Turf. And I shall never forget the half-hour in
+ which he and I argued about real things for the first and the last time.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Along the front of the big building of which our school was a part ran a
+ huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think, than those that lead up to St.
+ Paul's Cathedral. On a black wintry evening he and I were wandering on
+ these cold heights, which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the stars.
+ The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning and blowing
+ fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning something in the grounds,
+ and from time to time the red sparks went whirling past us like a swarm of
+ scarlet insects in the dark. Above us also it was gloom; but if one stared
+ long enough at that upper darkness, one saw vertical stripes of grey in
+ the black and then became conscious of the colossal façade of the Doric
+ building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if Heaven were still filled
+ with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said it, I
+ really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it I knew it
+ to be literally true. And the process had been so long and full that I
+ answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am becoming orthodox,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;because I have come, rightly or
+ wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief that
+ heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than a crime, for
+ an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a pirate. For an
+ Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches piracy disinterestedly
+ and without an adequate salary. A Free Lover is worse than a profligate.
+ For a profligate is serious and reckless even in his shortest love; while
+ a Free Lover is cautious and irresponsible even in his longest devotion. I
+ hate modern doubt because it is dangerous.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You mean dangerous to morality,&rdquo; he said in a voice of wonderful
+ gentleness. &ldquo;I expect you are right. But why do you care about morality?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had a
+ trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light of the
+ bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights. His long chin and high
+ cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath; so that he looked like
+ a fiend staring down into the flaming pit. I had an unmeaning sense of
+ being tempted in a wilderness; and even as I paused a burst of red sparks
+ broke past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Aren't those sparks splendid?&rdquo; I said.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; he replied.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;That is all that I ask you to admit,&rdquo; said I. &ldquo;Give me those few red
+ specks and I will deduce Christian morality. Once I thought like you, that
+ one's pleasure in a flying spark was a thing that could come and go with
+ that spark. Once I thought that the delight was as free as the fire. Once
+ I thought that red star we see was alone in space. But now I know that the
+ red star is only on the apex of an invisible pyramid of virtues. That red
+ fire is only the flower on a stalk of living habits, which you cannot see.
+ Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you' for a bun are you now
+ able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars of an instant or for the
+ white stars of all time. Only because you were humble before fireworks on
+ the fifth of November do you now enjoy any fireworks that you chance to
+ see. You only like them being red because you were told about the blood of
+ the martyrs; you only like them being bright because brightness is a
+ glory. That flame flowered out of virtues, and it will fade with virtues.
+ Seduce a woman, and that spark will be less bright. Shed blood, and that
+ spark will be less red. Be really bad, and they will be to you like the
+ spots on a wall-paper.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of his
+ soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion produced
+ humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both. He only said,
+ &ldquo;But shall I not find in evil a life of its own? Granted that for every
+ woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out: will not the expanding
+ pleasure of ruin...&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Do you see that fire?&rdquo; I asked. &ldquo;If we had a real fighting democracy,
+ some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Perhaps,&rdquo; he said, in his tired, fair way. &ldquo;Only what you call evil I
+ call good.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted the steps
+ swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find my hat in the
+ low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his voice again, but the
+ words were inaudible. I stopped, startled: then I heard the voice of one
+ of the vilest of his associates saying, &ldquo;Nobody can possibly know.&rdquo; And
+ then I heard those two or three words which I remember in every syllable
+ and cannot forget. I heard the Diabolist say, &ldquo;I tell you I have done
+ everything else. If I do that I shan't know the difference between right
+ and wrong.&rdquo; I rushed out without daring to pause; and as I passed the fire
+ I did not know whether it was hell or the furious love of God.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think, that he
+ committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure, not with tools
+ of pain. God help him, I know the road he went; but I have never known, or
+ even dared to think, what was that place at which he stopped and
+ refrained.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is really
+ quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven or Fairyland or
+ whatever I called it, was immediately behind my own back, and that this
+ was why I could never manage to see it, however often I twisted and turned
+ to take it by surprise. I had a notion of a man perpetually spinning round
+ on one foot like a teetotum in the effort to find that world behind his
+ back which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is why the world goes
+ round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look over its shoulder and
+ catch up the world which always escapes it, yet without which it cannot be
+ itself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive of that
+ which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is in some
+ strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars; of the
+ terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak. But poetry and
+ religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost menacing closeness
+ of the things with which they are concerned. Always the Kingdom of Heaven
+ is &ldquo;At Hand&rdquo;; and Looking-glass Land is only through the looking-glass. So
+ I for one should never be astonished if the next twist of a street led me
+ to the heart of that maze in which all the mystics are lost. I should not
+ be at all surprised if I turned one corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet
+ queerer-looking lamp; I should not be surprised if I turned a third corner
+ and found myself in Elfland.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day at
+ something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street and found
+ myself in England.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation. In the
+ darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there is one thing that
+ should always be remembered about the very nature of our country. It may
+ be shortly stated by saying that England is not such a fool as it looks.
+ The types of England, the externals of England, always misrepresent the
+ country. England is an oligarchical country, and it prefers that its
+ oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse than
+ the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or almost all
+ other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners. Our countrymen
+ probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher places of the national
+ life. It may be a strange sight to see the blind leading the blind; but
+ England provides a stranger. England shows us the blind leading the people
+ who can see. And this again is an under-statement of the case. For the
+ English political aristocrats not only speak worse than many other people;
+ they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance of statesmen is like the
+ ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected thing. If you have the
+ good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you will be constantly
+ startled with his saying quite intelligent things. It makes one nervous at
+ first. And I have never been sufficiently intimate with such a man to ask
+ him why it was a rule of his life in Parliament to appear sillier than he
+ was.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself; he
+ votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one. A man ought to
+ vote with the whole of himself as he worships or gets married. A man ought
+ to vote with his head and heart, his soul and stomach, his eye for faces
+ and his ear for music; also (when sufficiently provoked) with his hands
+ and feet. If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of it
+ should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs, they
+ should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross. But as it is, the
+ difficulty with English democracy at all elections is that it is something
+ less than itself. The question is not so much whether only a minority of
+ the electorate votes. The point is that only a minority of the voter
+ votes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+ Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak I found this
+ to be so especially of that old intelligent middle class which I had
+ imagined had almost vanished from the world. It seemed to me that all the
+ main representatives of the middle class had gone off in one direction or
+ in the other; they had either set out in pursuit of the Smart Set or they
+ had set out in pursuit of the Simple Life. I cannot say which I dislike
+ more myself; the people in question are welcome to have either of them,
+ or, as is more likely, to have both, in hideous alternations of disease
+ and cure. But all the prominent men who plainly represent the middle class
+ have adopted either the single eye-glass of Mr Chamberlain or the single
+ eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+ but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads. It was serious
+ about politics; and when it spoke in public it committed the solecism of
+ trying to speak well. I thought that this old earnest political England
+ had practically disappeared. And as I say, I took one turn out of Fleet
+ Street and I found a room full of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The club was
+ a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the ne'er-do-weel
+ was virile. But all these things by themselves might be merely archaism.
+ The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all the hubbub, the
+ sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth century. The members
+ of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet there was not one speech
+ which gave me that jar of unreality which I often have in listening to the
+ ablest men uttering my own opinion. The Toryism of this club was like the
+ Toryism of Johnson, a Toryism that could use humour and appealed to
+ humanity. The democracy of this club was like the democracy of Wilkes, a
+ democracy that can speak epigrams and fight duels; a democracy that can
+ face things out and endure slander; the democracy of Wilkes, or, rather,
+ the democracy of Fox.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers. Each man
+ speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as well as he could from
+ sheer fury against the other man. This is the greatest of our modern
+ descents, that nowadays a man does not become more rhetorical as he
+ becomes more sincere. An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got really
+ and honestly furious, looked for big words with which to crush his
+ adversary. The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with. He
+ looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech the rhetoric
+ is put into the merely formal part, the opening to which nobody listens.
+ But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate, or one of the harder kind of
+ Socialists, becomes really sincere, he becomes Cockney. &ldquo;The destiny of
+ the Empire,&rdquo; or &ldquo;The destiny of humanity,&rdquo; do well enough for mere
+ ornamental preliminaries, but when the man becomes angry and honest, then
+ it is a snarl, &ldquo;Where do we come in?&rdquo; or &ldquo;It's your money they want.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different; they were
+ quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet quivering with
+ passion, and tried to destroy his opponent, not with sniggering, but
+ actually with eloquence. I was arguing with them about Home Rule; at the
+ end I told them why the English aristocracy really disliked an Irish
+ Parliament; because it would be like their club.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I saw
+ pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London was rising
+ against something that London had hardly heard of. Then I suddenly saw, as
+ in one obvious picture, that the modern world is an immense and tumultuous
+ ocean, full of monstrous and living things. And I saw that across the top
+ of it is spread a thin, a very thin, sheet of ice, of wicked wealth and of
+ lying journalism.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I heard it
+ crack.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read it through
+ very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come to the conclusion
+ that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read it through very
+ carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet. The image and the idea
+ of it clung to me through a great part of my boyhood; I may have dreamt it
+ before I could talk; or told it to myself before I could read; or read it
+ before I could remember. On the whole, however, I am certain that I did
+ not read it, for children have very clear memories about things like that;
+ and of the books which I was really fond I can still remember, not only
+ the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position of the printed words
+ on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline to the opinion that it
+ happened to me before I was born.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages of the
+ atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me, for the sake of
+ argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch restaurants in the
+ City where men take their food so fast that it has none of the quality of
+ food, and take their half-hour's vacation so fast that it has none of the
+ qualities of leisure; to hurry through one's leisure is the most
+ unbusiness-like of actions. They all wore tall shiny hats as if they could
+ not lose an instant even to hang them on a peg, and they all had one eye a
+ little off, hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In short, they were
+ the slaves of the modern bondage, you could hear their fetters clanking.
+ Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest chain ever tied to a man&mdash;it
+ is called a watch-chain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man who
+ almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue. He was like all the
+ other men in dress, yet he was startlingly opposite to them in all manner.
+ He wore a high shiny hat and a long frock coat, but he wore them as such
+ solemn things were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if it were a
+ mitre, and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high priest. He not
+ only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed (such was his stateliness)
+ almost to ask permission of the hat for doing so, and to apologise to the
+ peg for making use of it. When he had sat down on a wooden chair with the
+ air of one considering its feelings and given a sort of slight stoop or
+ bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an altar, I could not help
+ some comment springing to my lips. For the man was a big, sanguine-faced,
+ prosperous-looking man, and yet he treated everything with a care that
+ almost amounted to nervousness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said, &ldquo;This
+ furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat it much too
+ carelessly.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed as his was
+ fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him ordinary as he entered,
+ save for his strange, cautious manner; but if the other people had seen
+ him then they would have screamed and emptied the room. They did not see
+ him, and they went on making a clatter with their forks, and a murmur with
+ their conversation. But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Did you mean anything particular by that remark?&rdquo; he asked at last, and
+ the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Nothing whatever,&rdquo; I answered. &ldquo;One does not mean anything here; it
+ spoils people's digestions.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief; and
+ yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I thought perhaps,&rdquo; he said in a low voice, &ldquo;that another of them had
+ gone wrong.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;If you mean another digestion gone wrong,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;I never heard of one
+ here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire, and the other
+ organs are in an equally bad way.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, I mean another street gone wrong,&rdquo; and he said heavily and quietly,
+ &ldquo;but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you, I think I shall have
+ to tell you the story. I do so with all the less responsibility, because I
+ know you won't believe it. For forty years of my life I invariably left my
+ office, which is in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the afternoon,
+ taking with me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the left hand.
+ For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the side office
+ door, walked down the street on the left-hand side, took the first turning
+ to the left and the third to the right, from where I bought an evening
+ paper, followed the road on the right-hand side round two obtuse angles,
+ and came out just outside a Metropolitan station, where I took a train
+ home. For forty years two months and four days I fulfilled this course by
+ accumulated habit: it was not a long street that I traversed, and it took
+ me about four and a half minutes to do it. After forty years two months
+ and four days, on the fifth day I went out in the same manner, with my
+ umbrella in the right hand and my bag in the left, and I began to notice
+ that walking along the familiar street tired me somewhat more than usual;
+ and when I turned it I was convinced that I had turned down the wrong one.
+ For now the street shot up quite a steep slant, such as one only sees in
+ the hilly parts of London, and in this part there were no hills at all.
+ Yet it was not the wrong street; the name written on it was the same; the
+ shuttered shops were the same; the lamp-posts and the whole look of the
+ perspective was the same; only it was tilted upwards like a lid.
+ Forgetting any trouble about breathlessness or fatigue I ran furiously
+ forward, and reached the second of my accustomed turnings, which ought to
+ bring me almost within sight of the station. And as I turned that corner I
+ nearly fell on the pavement. For now the street went up straight in front
+ of my face like a steep staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not
+ for miles round that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill.
+ And this was a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole street had
+ lifted itself like a single wave, and yet every speck and detail of it was
+ the same, and I saw in the high distance, as at the top of an Alpine pass,
+ picked out in pink letters the name over my paper shop.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a part
+ of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses. I had, I
+ know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long iron bridge in empty
+ space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up the iron trap of a coal-hole.
+ Looking down through it I saw empty space and the stairs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+ apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+ gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was in
+ shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing so
+ perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world. And the
+ stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought to be endured by
+ the eyes of men.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything in
+ common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of devils.'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+ Station.'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now, however,
+ it is going to heaven.'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+ it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+ by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked and
+ also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women&mdash;everybody does.
+ But you can't neglect women&mdash;I defy you to. At the same time, you can
+ neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the State so
+ long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no horse, no
+ dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and yet have less
+ than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have worked this street
+ to death, and yet you have never remembered its existence. If you had a
+ healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would have hung this street with
+ garlands and given it the name of a god. Then it would have gone quietly.
+ But at last the street has grown tired of your tireless insolence; and it
+ is bucking and rearing its head to heaven. Have you never sat on a bucking
+ horse?'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me to be
+ exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven. But in a
+ moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this is all nonsense. Streets
+ go to the place they have to go. A street must always go to its end.'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied, in
+ reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always gone to
+ Oldgate Station; day after...'
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury of the road in
+ revolt.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks of you?
+ Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive? Day after day, year
+ after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station....' Since then I have
+ respected the things called inanimate.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in the restaurant
+ withdrew.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can get
+ for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun, the moon, the
+ earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles. You can get them
+ for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing, which I am not
+ allowed to mention in this paper, and of which the lowest price is a penny
+ halfpenny. But the general principle will be at once apparent. In the
+ street behind me, for instance, you can now get a ride on an electric tram
+ for a halfpenny. To be on an electric tram is to be on a flying castle in
+ a fairy tale. You can get quite a large number of brightly coloured sweets
+ for a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of reading this article for a
+ halfpenny; along, of course, with other and irrelevant matter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array of valuable
+ things you can get at a halfpenny each you should do as I was doing last
+ night. I was gluing my nose against the glass of a very small and dimly
+ lit toy shop in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets of
+ Battersea. But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a child
+ once said to me) with all the colours God ever made. Those toys of the
+ poor were like the children who buy them; they were all dirty; but they
+ were all bright. For my part, I think brightness more important than
+ cleanliness; since the first is of the soul, and the second of the body.
+ You must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion in the
+ modern world.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses, at
+ small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red Noah's arks, I
+ must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance. That lit shop-window
+ became like the brilliantly lit stage when one is watching some highly
+ coloured comedy. I forgot the grey houses and the grimy people behind me
+ as one forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds at a theatre. It
+ seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were small, not because
+ they were toys, but because they were objects far away. The green omnibus
+ was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater omnibus, passing across some
+ huge desert on its ordinary way to Bayswater. The blue elephant was no
+ longer blue with paint; he was blue with distance. The black doll was
+ really a negro relieved against passionate tropic foliage in the land
+ where every weed is flaming and only man is black. The red Noah's ark was
+ really the enormous ship of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen
+ sea, red in the first morning of hope.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction, such
+ brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the face of
+ one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles or moustaches.
+ They are commonly marked by the two signs of the slowness of their growth
+ and the suddenness of their termination. The return to real thinking is
+ often as abrupt as bumping into a man. Very often indeed (in my case) it
+ is bumping into a man. But in any case the awakening is always emphatic
+ and, generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in this case, I did
+ come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness that I was, after
+ all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop; but in some strange way
+ the mental cure did not seem to be final. There was still in my mind an
+ unmanageable something that told me that I had strayed into some odd
+ atmosphere, or that I had already done some odd thing. I felt as if I had
+ worked a miracle or committed a sin. It was as if I had at any rate,
+ stepped across some border in the soul.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop and
+ tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old and broken,
+ with confused white hair covering his head and half his face, hair so
+ startlingly white that it looked almost artificial. Yet though he was
+ senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering in his eyes; he
+ looked rather as if he were gradually falling asleep in a not unkindly
+ decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers, but when I put down the money he
+ did not at first seem to see it; then he blinked at it feebly, and then he
+ pushed it feebly away.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, no,&rdquo; he said vaguely. &ldquo;I never have. I never have. We are rather
+ old-fashioned here.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Not taking money,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;seems to me more like an uncommonly new
+ fashion than an old one.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I never have,&rdquo; said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose; &ldquo;I've
+ always given presents. I'm too old to stop.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good heavens!&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;What can you mean? Why, you might be Father
+ Christmas.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am Father Christmas,&rdquo; he said apologetically, and blew his nose again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside. At any
+ rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+ shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street; I
+ might have strayed into some new and sunless world. But something had cut
+ the chords of common sense, and I could not feel even surprise except
+ sleepily. Something made me say, &ldquo;You look ill, Father Christmas.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I am dying,&rdquo; he said.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it. They seem
+ to object to me on such curious and inconsistent sort of grounds, these
+ scientific men, and these innovators. They say that I give people
+ superstitions and make them too visionary; they say I give people sausages
+ and make them too coarse. They say my heavenly parts are too heavenly;
+ they say my earthly parts are too earthly; I don't know what they want,
+ I'm sure. How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly things too
+ earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly? I don't understand. But I
+ understand one thing well enough. These modern people are living and I am
+ dead.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;You may be dead,&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;You ought to know. But as for what they are
+ doing, do not call it living.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected to be
+ unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few seconds when, in the
+ utter stillness, I distinctly heard a very rapid step coming nearer and
+ nearer along the street. The next moment a figure flung itself into the
+ shop and stood framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted
+ back as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons, a
+ gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat. He had
+ large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor; he had a
+ pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the shop and the old
+ man in a look that seemed literally a flash and uttered the exclamation of
+ a man utterly staggered.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Good lord!&rdquo; he cried out; &ldquo;it can't be you! It isn't you! I came to ask
+ where your grave was.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens,&rdquo; said the old gentleman, with a feeble
+ smile; &ldquo;but I'm dying,&rdquo; he hastened to add reassuringly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;But, dash it all, you were dying in my time,&rdquo; said Mr. Charles Dickens
+ with animation; &ldquo;and you don't look a day older.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I've felt like this for a long time,&rdquo; said Father Christmas.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door into the
+ darkness.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Dick,&rdquo; he roared at the top of his voice; &ldquo;he's still alive.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+ full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his flushed
+ face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne. He carried his head
+ well back like a soldier, and his hot face had even a look of arrogance,
+ which was suddenly contradicted by his eyes, which were literally as
+ humble as a dog's. His sword made a great clatter, as if the shop were too
+ small for it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Indeed,&rdquo; said Sir Richard Steele, &ldquo;'tis a most prodigious matter, for the
+ man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley and his Christmas
+ Day.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker. It seemed to be filled
+ with newcomers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;It hath ever been understood,&rdquo; said a burly man, who carried his head
+ humorously and obstinately a little on one side&mdash;I think he was Ben
+ Jonson&mdash;&ldquo;It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King
+ James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were fallen
+ sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most surely was no
+ lustier when I knew him than now.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in some
+ mixed Norman French, &ldquo;But I saw the man dying.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I have felt like this a long time,&rdquo; said Father Christmas, in his feeble
+ way again.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Since when?&rdquo; he asked. &ldquo;Since you were born?&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. &ldquo;I have been
+ always dying.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to
+ rise.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;I understand it now,&rdquo; he cried, &ldquo;you will never die.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection
+ for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that we
+ almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing in
+ wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the Cathedral
+ tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem, heard the bell
+ which told them they were not too late. But we took as much pleasure in
+ the people, in the little boys with open, flat Flemish faces and fur
+ collars round their necks, making them look like burgomasters; or the
+ women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and
+ mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late
+ mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little
+ tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one
+ corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got into
+ the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and their
+ vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and the official
+ came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place we should get to if
+ we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us
+ (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism)
+ where we wanted to go.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question was
+ whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great deal of
+ international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the Flemish and we
+ in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would take us to a place
+ which I have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded like
+ the word &ldquo;Waterloo&rdquo; pronounced by an intoxicated patriot; I think it was
+ Waerlowe.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from
+ boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field of
+ Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was in quite a
+ different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads, with one cottage at the
+ corner, a perspective of tall trees like Hobbema's &ldquo;Avenue,&rdquo; and beyond
+ only the infinite flat chess-board of the little fields. It was the scene
+ of peace and prosperity; but I must confess that my friend's first action
+ was to ask the man when there would be another train back to Mechlin. The
+ man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one hour. We walked
+ up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's walk away it began
+ to rain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and, finding the
+ train waiting, climbed into it with some relief. The officer on this train
+ could speak nothing but Flemish, but he understood the name Mechlin, and
+ indicated that when we came to Mechlin Station he would put us down,
+ which, after the right interval of time, he did.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+ though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey screen
+ of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain depressing.
+ A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling. And if it is
+ exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you, why should it not
+ also be exciting when the gods throw many pails? But on this soaking
+ afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line of the Netherlands or the fact
+ that we were returning home without any adventure, I really did think
+ things a trifle dreary. As soon as we could creep under the shelter of a
+ street we turned into a little café, kept by one woman. She was incredibly
+ old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee and what was
+ called &ldquo;cognac fine.&rdquo; &ldquo;Cognac fine&rdquo; were the only two French words used in
+ the establishment, and they were not true. At least, the fineness (perhaps
+ by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me. After a little my friend, who
+ was more restless than I, got up and went out, to see if the rain had
+ stopped and if we could at once stroll back to our hotel by the station. I
+ sat finishing my coffee in a colourless mood, and listening to the
+ unremitting rain.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured and
+ frantic.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Get up!&rdquo; he cried, waving his hands wildly. &ldquo;Get up! We're in the wrong
+ town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles, twenty miles off&mdash;God
+ knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;What!&rdquo; I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+ &ldquo;Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face for an instant
+ behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I was feeling depressed because we
+ were in the right town. But if we are in the wrong town&mdash;why, we have
+ our adventure after all! If we are in the wrong town, we are in the right
+ place.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat more
+ grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre, which seemed to
+ consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks, who sold lemonade.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!&rdquo; I cried enthusiastically.
+ &ldquo;We must do something, something sacramental and commemorative! We cannot
+ sacrifice an ox, and it would be a bore to build a temple. Let us write a
+ poem.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope and one of those
+ pencils that turn bright violet in water. There was plenty of water about,
+ and the violet ran down the paper, symbolising the rich purple of that
+ romantic hour. I began, choosing the form of an old French ballade; it is
+ the easiest because it is the most restricted&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ &ldquo;Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean&mdash;&mdash;&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it expressed a more
+ wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean. But he only turned up his
+ coat collar, and I felt that for him the muse had folded her wings. I
+ rewrote&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre.&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The next line,&rdquo; I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The next line,&rdquo; he said somewhat harshly, &ldquo;will be a railway line. We can
+ get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we have to change twice. I
+ dare say I should think this jolly romantic but for the weather. Adventure
+ is the champagne of life, but I prefer my champagne and my adventures dry.
+ Here is the station.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ .....
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred cloud of
+ rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky, that even made one
+ think of stars. Then I leant forward and said to my friend in a low voice&mdash;&ldquo;I
+ have found out everything. We have come to the wrong star.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: &ldquo;That is what makes life at
+ once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world. When I thought
+ that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it was wrong, I was
+ happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness, tires us because it
+ tells us we fit into this world. The true happiness is that we don't fit.
+ We come from somewhere else. We have lost our way.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had impressed
+ or only fatigued him I could not tell. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; I added, &ldquo;is suggested in
+ the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected&mdash;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ &ldquo;'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'&rdquo;
+ </pre>
+ <p>
+ Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple we heard
+ the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with &ldquo;No bally HORS D'OEUVRES for
+ me: I shall get on to something solid at once.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040">
+ <!-- H2 anchor --> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take a
+ small part in one of those historical processions or pageants which
+ happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909. And since I tend,
+ like all who are growing old, to re-enter the remote past as a paradise or
+ playground, I disinter a memory which may serve to stand among those
+ memories of small but strange incidents with which I have sometimes filled
+ this column. The thing has really some of the dark qualities of a
+ detective-story; though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could
+ hardly unravel it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the
+ actors, doubtless, long dead.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth century,
+ and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that Dr. Johnson
+ was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over gravy, snorted
+ and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man in London, I
+ mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt. I had nothing to
+ do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions as I made were not
+ taken so seriously as they might have been. I requested that a row of
+ posts be erected across the lawn, so that I might touch all of them but
+ one, and then go back and touch that. Failing this, I felt that the least
+ they could do was to have twenty-five cups of tea stationed at regular
+ intervals along the course, each held by a Mrs. Thrale in full costume. My
+ best constructive suggestion was the most harshly rejected of all. In
+ front of me in the procession walked the great Bishop Berkeley, the man
+ who turned the tables on the early materialists by maintaining that matter
+ itself possibly does not exist. Dr. Johnson, you will remember, did not
+ like such bottomless fancies as Berkeley's, and kicked a stone with his
+ foot, saying, &ldquo;I refute him so!&rdquo; Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone
+ would not make the metaphysical quarrel quite clear; besides, it would
+ hurt. But how picturesque and perfect it would be if I moved across the
+ ground in the symbolic attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete
+ an allegoric group; the great transcendentalist walking with his head
+ among the stars, but behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with
+ uplifted foot. But I must not take up space with these forgotten
+ frivolities; we old men grow too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my assumed character.
+ Suffice it to say that the procession took place at night in a large
+ garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date), that the garden was
+ crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms, and especially with early
+ Celtic saints smoking pipes, and with elegant Renaissance gentlemen
+ talking Cockney. Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless to say, that
+ I got lost. I wandered away into some dim corner of that dim shrubbery,
+ where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent ropes, and I began
+ almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his horror of solitude and
+ hatred of a country life.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig advancing
+ across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man, who stooped in his
+ long black robes like a stooping eagle. When I thought he would pass me,
+ he stopped before my face, and said, &ldquo;Dr. Johnson, I think. I am Paley.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;Sir,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+ If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you will
+ perform a yet higher and harder function.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+ thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but, turning
+ his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms and winding
+ mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight and laughing men
+ in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am (you will say)
+ naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient. I was, moreover,
+ unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark and took a man for a
+ spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise as a modern gentleman in a
+ masquerade dress. No; far from it. That spectral person was my first
+ introduction to a special incident which has never been explained and
+ which still lays its finger on my nerve.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled as one does
+ at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life and a great deal
+ better looking. There was Cowper much larger than life; he ought to have
+ been a little man in a night-cap, with a cat under one arm and a spaniel
+ under the other. As it was, he was a magnificent person, and looked more
+ like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him at last to the
+ night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog. When I came the next night
+ Burke was still the same beautiful improvement upon himself; Cowper was
+ still weeping for his dog and cat and would not be comforted; Bishop
+ Berkeley was still waiting to be kicked in the interests of philosophy. In
+ short, I met all my old friends but one. Where was Paley? I had been
+ mystically moved by the man's presence; I was moved more by his absence.
+ At last I saw advancing towards us across the twilight garden a little man
+ with a large book and a bright attractive face. When he came near enough
+ he said, in a small, clear voice, &ldquo;I'm Paley.&rdquo; The thing was quite
+ natural, of course; the man was ill and had sent a substitute. Yet somehow
+ the contrast was a shock.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four or five
+ colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual friend with Berkeley
+ and several points of difference with Burke. Cowper, I think it was, who
+ introduced me to a friend of his, a fresh face, square and sturdy, framed
+ in a white wig. &ldquo;This,&rdquo; he explained, &ldquo;is my friend So-and-So. He's
+ Paley.&rdquo; I looked round at all the faces by this time fixed and familiar; I
+ studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the third Paley as one bows
+ to necessity. So far the thing was all within the limits of coincidence.
+ It certainly seemed odd that this one particular cleric should be so
+ varying and elusive. It was singular that Paley, alone among men, should
+ swell and shrink and alter like a phantom, while all else remained solid.
+ But the thing was explicable; two men had been ill and there was an end of
+ it; only I went again the next night, and a clear-coloured elegant youth
+ with powdered hair bounded up to me, and told me with boyish excitement
+ that he was Paley.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition of the
+ modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural explanations have
+ broken down and no supernatural explanation has been established. My
+ bewilderment had reached to boredom when I found myself once more in the
+ colour and clatter of the pageant, and I was all the more pleased because
+ I met an old school-fellow, and we mutually recognised each other under
+ our heavy clothes and hoary wigs. We talked about all those great things
+ for which literature is too small and only life large enough; red-hot
+ memories and those gigantic details which make up the characters of men. I
+ heard all about the friends he had lost sight of and those he had kept in
+ sight; I heard about his profession, and asked at last how he came into
+ the pageant.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;The fact is,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night, to
+ act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was....&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ &ldquo;No, by thunder!&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;nor does anyone.&rdquo;
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream. I scarcely
+ noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure which fell into
+ the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased. What could it
+ mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among the faithful found? Did
+ these perpetual changes prove the popularity or the unpopularity of being
+ Paley? Was it that no human being could support being Paley for one night
+ and live till morning? Or was it that the gates were crowded with eager
+ throngs of the British public thirsting to be Paley, who could only be let
+ in one at a time? Or is there some ancient vendetta against Paley? Does
+ some secret society of Deists still assassinate any one who adopts the
+ name?
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery; and that for
+ two reasons. First, the story is so true that I have had to put a lie into
+ it. Every word of this narrative is veracious, except the one word Paley.
+ And second, because I have got to go into the next room and dress up as
+ Dr. Johnson.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+
+
+
+
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+</pre>
+ </body>
+</html>
diff --git a/old/8092.txt b/old/8092.txt
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/8092.txt
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8092]
+Release Date: August 10, 2009
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer
+
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+By G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission of the
+Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared. They amount
+to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary recording one day in
+twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--the only kind of diary the
+author has ever been able to keep. Even that diary he could only keep
+by keeping it in public, for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the
+topics they are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive.
+As the reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages, it
+probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post, a window
+blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the reader is looking at
+something that he has never seen: that is, never realised. He could not
+write an essay on such a post or wall: he does not know what the post
+or wall mean. He could not even write the synopsis of an essay; as "The
+Bed-Post; Its Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night
+Felt as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture," and so on. He could
+not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards window-blinds, even
+in the form of a summary. "The Window-Blind--Its Analogy to the Curtain
+and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun,
+etc., etc." None of us think enough of these things on which the eye
+rests. But don't let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy?
+Let us exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that
+run across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be ocular
+athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or a coloured
+cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what follows; but anyone else
+may do it better, if anyone else will only try.
+
+
+ CONTENTS:
+
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon's Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+ XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+
+
+
+I. Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly in the
+front garden, because their villa was a model one. The front garden was
+about the same size as the dinner table; it consisted of four strips of
+gravel, a square of turf with some mysterious pieces of cork standing up
+in the middle and one flower bed with a row of red daisies. One morning
+while they were at play in these romantic grounds, a passing individual,
+probably the milkman, leaned over the railing and engaged them in
+philosophical conversation. The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter,
+were at least sharply interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who
+was, I need say, a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering
+them in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for. And
+Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness, explaining
+that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride across
+continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas in an afternoon
+dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from his breast pocket,
+waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner; and in an instant the
+model villa with its front garden was like a tiny doll's house at Paul's
+colossal feet. He went striding away with his head above the clouds to
+visit Niagara and the Himalayas. But when he came to the Himalayas,
+he found they were quite small and silly-looking, like the little cork
+rockery in the garden; and when he found Niagara it was no bigger than
+the tap turned on in the bathroom. He wandered round the world for
+several minutes trying to find something really large and finding
+everything small, till in sheer boredom he lay down on four or five
+prairies and fell asleep. Unfortunately his head was just outside the
+hut of an intellectual backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment
+with an axe in one hand and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the
+other. The man looked at the book and then at the giant, and then at the
+book again. And in the book it said, "It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe." So the
+backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and, working eight hours a
+day for about a week, cut the giant's head off; and there was an end of
+him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long wished to
+be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he immediately became
+one. When the transformation was over he found himself in the midst of
+an immense plain, covered with a tall green jungle and above which, at
+intervals, rose strange trees each with a head like the sun in symbolic
+pictures, with gigantic rays of silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward
+the middle of this prairie stood up a mountain of such romantic and
+impossible shape, yet of such stony height and dominance, that it looked
+like some incident of the end of the world. And far away on the faint
+horizon he could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more
+mystical, of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever.
+He set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has not
+come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced it is
+not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction. It is in fact
+the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating the pages that
+follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences upon European
+literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own preference in
+its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it by what little girls
+call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other great
+literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England by Mr.
+Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest by
+sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere. Let it
+be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight; and the
+two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school advises us
+to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without a frock coat. The
+school to which I belong suggests that we should stare steadily at the
+man until we see the man inside the frock coat. If we stare at him long
+enough he may even be moved to take off his coat to us; and that is a
+far greater compliment than his taking off his hat. In other words,
+we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely on the facts actually
+before us, force them to turn into adventures; force them to give up
+their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose. The purpose of the
+Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary things a man may
+see if he is active and strides from continent to continent like the
+giant in my tale. But the object of my school is to show how many
+extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man may see if he can spur
+himself to the single activity of seeing. For this purpose I have taken
+the laziest person of my acquaintance, that is myself; and made an idle
+diary of such odd things as I have fallen over by accident, in walking
+in a very limited area at a very indolent pace. If anyone says that
+these are very small affairs talked about in very big language, I can
+only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke. If anyone says that
+I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess with pride that it is
+so. I can imagine no more successful and productive form of manufacture
+than that of making mountains out of molehills. But I would add this not
+unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains; one has only to become a
+pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering, in getting
+to the top of everything and overlooking everything. Satan was the
+most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took Jesus to the top of an
+exceeding high mountain and showed him all the kingdoms of the earth.
+But the joy of Satan in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness,
+but a joy in beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like
+insects at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large; it is
+from the level that things look high; I am a child of the level and have
+no need of that celebrated Alpine guide. I will lift up my eyes to the
+hills, from whence cometh my help; but I will not lift up my carcass
+to the hills, unless it is absolutely necessary. Everything is in an
+attitude of mind; and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude. I
+will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle on me like
+flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you. The world will never
+starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.
+
+
+
+
+II. A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up a
+walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any brown
+paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she mistook
+the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper. She
+seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must be
+wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to
+do; indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental
+capacity. Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of
+toughness and endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only
+wanted to draw pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in
+the least; and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a
+question, not of tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing
+comparatively irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I
+wanted to draw she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently
+supposing that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper
+wrappers from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I not
+only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness in paper,
+just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods, or in beer,
+or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper represents the primal
+twilight of the first toil of creation, and with a bright-coloured
+chalk or two you can pick out points of fire in it, sparks of gold, and
+blood-red, and sea-green, like the first fierce stars that sprang out of
+divine darkness. All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman;
+and I put the brown paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and
+possibly other things. I suppose every one must have reflected how
+primeval and how poetical are the things that one carries in one's
+pocket; the pocket-knife, for instance, the type of all human tools, the
+infant of the sword. Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely
+about the things in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and
+the age of the great epics is past.
+
+.....
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper, I went out
+on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal contours that
+express the best quality of England, because they are at the same time
+soft and strong. The smoothness of them has the same meaning as the
+smoothness of great cart-horses, or the smoothness of the beech-tree;
+it declares in the teeth of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty
+are merciful. As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake. The
+villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see, for centuries;
+yet the lifting of the whole land was like the lifting of one enormous
+wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going to
+sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim, and blind
+old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right, and saints in
+robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green, and all the sacred
+or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright colours on brown paper.
+They are much better worth drawing than Nature; also they are much
+easier to draw. When a cow came slouching by in the field next to me, a
+mere artist might have drawn it; but I always get wrong in the hind legs
+of quadrupeds. So I drew the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly
+walking before me in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and
+silver, and had seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the
+beasts. But though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the
+landscape, it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the
+best out of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about
+the old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills; but
+they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much less about
+Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They painted the white
+robes of their holy virgins with the blinding snow, at which they had
+stared all day. They blazoned the shields of their paladins with the
+purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets. The greenness of a thousand
+green leaves clustered into the live green figure of Robin Hood. The
+blueness of a score of forgotten skies became the blue robes of the
+Virgin. The inspiration went in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+.....
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that
+a most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential. I
+cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the wise
+and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this, that white
+is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is a shining and
+affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as black. When, so
+to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses; when it grows
+white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three defiant verities
+of the best religious morality, of real Christianity, for example, is
+exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of religious morality
+is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence of vices or the
+avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and separate thing, like
+pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean not being cruel or
+sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a plain and positive
+thing like the sun, which one has either seen or not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means something
+flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in many colours; but
+He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost said so gaudily, as when
+He paints in white. In a sense our age has realised this fact, and
+expressed it in our sullen costume. For if it were really true that
+white was a blank and colourless thing, negative and non-committal, then
+white would be used instead of black and grey for the funeral dress of
+this pessimistic period. We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of
+spotless silver linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies.
+Which is not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+.....
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town nearer than
+Chichester at which it was even remotely probable that there would be
+such a thing as an artist's colourman. And yet, without white, my absurd
+little pictures would be as pointless as the world would be if there
+were no good people in it. I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for
+expedients. Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and
+again, so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine
+a man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some salt
+water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on an immense
+warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made entirely out of white
+chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until it met the sky. I stooped
+and broke a piece off the rock I sat on; it did not mark so well as the
+shop chalks do; but it gave the effect. And I stood there in a trance
+of pleasure, realising that this Southern England is not only a grand
+peninsula, and a tradition and a civilisation; it is something even more
+admirable. It is a piece of chalk.
+
+
+
+
+III. The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a loose
+memory. I will not merely say that this story is true: because, as you
+will soon see, it is all truth and no story. It has no explanation and
+no conclusion; it is, like most of the other things we encounter in
+life, a fragment of something else which would be intensely exciting if
+it were not too large to be seen. For the perplexity of life arises from
+there being too many interesting things in it for us to be interested
+properly in any of them; what we call its triviality is really the
+tag-ends of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like
+ten thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon. My
+experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate, not
+fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents (what there were
+of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere of the landscape, which
+were the whole horror of the thing. I remember them vividly, and they
+were as I shall now describe.
+
+.....
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing outside
+the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London. And
+for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind or the
+emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice fell upon
+me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step out on the
+road and walk at least some part of the way to London. I do not know
+if other people are made like me in this matter; but to me it is always
+dreary weather, what may be called useless weather, that slings into
+life a sense of action and romance. On bright blue days I do not want
+anything to happen; the world is complete and beautiful, a thing for
+contemplation. I no more ask for adventures under that turquoise dome
+than I ask for adventures in church. But when the background of man's
+life is a grey background, then, in the name of man's sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail man
+refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in letters
+of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall happen, then the
+immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises up and decrees that
+something shall happen, if it be only the slaughter of a policeman. But
+this is a digressive way of stating what I have said already--that
+the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger for some change of plans, that the
+monotonous weather seemed to render unbearable the use of the monotonous
+train, and that I set out into the country lanes, out of the town of
+Oxford. It was, perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came
+upon me out of the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years
+afterwards I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir
+George Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless. The
+fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies; the
+tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds and as
+cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening was closing in.
+A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon, as if pale with reluctance
+to leave the world in the dark. And as it faded more and more the skies
+seemed to come closer and to threaten. The clouds which had been merely
+sullen became swollen; and then they loosened and let down the dark
+curtains of the rain. The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like
+blows from an enemy at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and
+bawling in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man, and
+in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met him I asked
+him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up the train for
+Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station (I cannot even
+remember the name of it) which stood well away from the road and looked
+as lonely as a hut on the Andes. I do not think I have ever seen such a
+type of time and sadness and scepticism and everything devilish as that
+station was: it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking wood of
+it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome liquid corruption
+of the wood itself; as if the solid station were eternally falling to
+pieces and pouring away in filth. It took me nearly ten minutes to find
+a man in the station. When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him
+if there was a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As
+far as I understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail of the
+tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain. It may have
+been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather slowly into the
+station. It was an unnaturally dark train; I could not see a light
+anywhere in the long black body of it; and I could not see any guard
+running beside it. I was reduced to walking up to the engine and calling
+out to the stoker to ask if the train was going to London. "Well--yes,
+sir," he said, with an unaccountable kind of reluctance. "It is going
+to London; but----" It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering, as we
+steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined with desolate
+poplars, until we slowed down and stopped, irrationally, in the middle
+of a field. I heard a heavy noise as of some one clambering off the
+train, and a dark, ragged head suddenly put itself into my window.
+"Excuse me, sir," said the stoker, "but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps
+you ought to know--there's a dead man in this train."
+
+.....
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be finally
+overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have insisted on
+getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to say, I expressed myself
+politely, but firmly, to the effect that I didn't care particularly if
+the train took me to Paddington. But when the train had started with
+its unknown burden I did do one thing, and do it quite instinctively,
+without stopping to think, or to think more than a flash. I threw
+away my cigar. Something that is as old as man and has to do with
+all mourning and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there being
+only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the other smoking
+a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end of it faded like a
+funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic moment of a procession,
+I realised how immortal ritual is. I realised (what is the origin and
+essence of all ritual) that in the presence of those sacred riddles
+about which we can say nothing it is more decent merely to do something.
+And I realised that ritual will always mean throwing away something;
+DESTROYING our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang out of
+it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier and officials
+guarding the rear part of the train; no one was allowed to press towards
+it. They were guarding and hiding something; perhaps death in some too
+shocking form, perhaps something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up
+with human mystery and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of
+sanctity; perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough
+into the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces.
+Nor have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+
+
+IV. The Perfect Game
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have happened to
+him, but that he does not really believe that they were supernatural. My
+own position is the opposite of this. I believe in the supernatural as a
+matter of intellect and reason, not as a matter of personal experience.
+I do not see ghosts; I only see their inherent probability. But it is
+entirely a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy. But
+upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often leave a
+peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance that ever occurred
+to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted in nothing less than my
+playing a game, and playing it quite well for some seventeen consecutive
+minutes. The ghost of my grandfather would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and luxuriant
+side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene. I played
+it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had a
+semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest. It
+is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument; but
+it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+"Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!" I cried, patting him affectionately on the
+head with a mallet, "how far you really are from the pure love of the
+sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly who love the Game
+itself. You love glory; you love applause; you love the earthquake voice
+of victory; you do not love croquet. You do not love croquet until
+you love being beaten at croquet. It is we the bunglers who adore the
+occupation in the abstract. It is we to whom it is art for art's sake.
+If we may see the face of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself)
+we are content to see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is
+called amateurish; and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs
+is but the French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady,
+the most disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates
+(I allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within the pedantic
+boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek honour in the ends
+of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds and the conservatory; they
+are to be found in the front garden and the next street. No, Parkinson!
+The good painter has skill. It is the bad painter who loves his art. The
+good musician loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With
+such a pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or tape,
+as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland, the four
+seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and the click of
+the balls is music. The four colours are to me sacramental and symbolic,
+like the red of martyrdom, or the white of Easter Day. You lose all
+this, my poor Parkinson. You have to solace yourself for the absence of
+this vision by the paltry consolation of being able to go through hoops
+and to hit the stick."
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+"Don't be too sorry for me," said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm. "I
+shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more a man likes
+a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that the pleasure
+in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure of success come
+naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your own simile of the
+Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman does first and foremost
+want to be in the lady's presence. But I never yet heard of a gentleman
+who wanted to look an utter ass when he was there."
+
+"Perhaps not; though he generally looks it," I replied. "But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the love
+of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not true
+that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger will
+be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to enjoy
+it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant hoop as
+easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would not put it
+through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your hand; it would
+not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you would not play at
+all. The moment the game is perfect the game disappears."
+
+"I do not think, however," said Parkinson, "that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not think
+your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence. You are
+safe for the present."
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired
+myself, and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four more
+fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five more
+hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+"We shall have to give this up," said Parkinson, as he missed a ball
+almost for the first time, "I can't see a thing."
+
+"Nor can I," I answered, "and it is a comfort to reflect that I could
+not hit anything if I saw it."
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was the
+right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I supposed
+was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick. And in the dead
+silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. "I can't stand this," I said. "My ball has gone
+right three times. These things are not of this world."
+
+"Pick your mallet up," said Parkinson, "have another go."
+
+"I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see all
+the devils dancing there on the blessed grass."
+
+"Why devils?" asked Parkinson; "they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game."
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness, in which
+the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across the grass
+as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull click
+of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+
+
+V. The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper columns.
+I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better expressed
+by some practical parable out of daily life than by any other method;
+therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the extraordinary cabman,
+which occurred to me only three days ago, and which, slight as it
+apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine emotion bordering upon
+despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching in a little
+restaurant in Soho in company with three or four of my best friends. My
+best friends are all either bottomless sceptics or quite uncontrollable
+believers, so our discussion at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate
+and terrible ideas. And the whole argument worked out ultimately to
+this: that the question is whether a man can be certain of anything
+at all. I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible intellectually
+to entertain certainty, what is this certainty which it is impossible
+to entertain? If I have never experienced such a thing as certainty I
+cannot even say that a thing is not certain. Similarly, if I have never
+experienced such a thing as green I cannot even say that my nose is not
+green. It may be as green as possible for all I know, if I have really
+no experience of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the
+room; because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing. And
+the difference between us was very deep, because it was a difference as
+to the object of the whole thing called broad-mindedness or the opening
+of the intellect. For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the
+sun opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening's sake, opening
+infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened my intellect as I opened
+my mouth, in order to shut it again on something solid. I was doing
+it at the moment. And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly
+silly if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+.....
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short (for
+it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions, who in
+the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election had somehow
+become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab from the
+corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House of
+Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper is a
+discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude of
+detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab on a few
+hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I had to visit. I
+then got out and offered him more than his fare. He looked at it, but
+not with the surly doubt and general disposition to try it on which is
+not unknown among normal cabmen. But this was no normal, perhaps, no
+human, cabman. He looked at it with a dull and infantile astonishment,
+clearly quite genuine. "Do you know, sir," he said, "you've only given
+me 1s.8d?" I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. "Now you
+know, sir," said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, "you know
+that ain't the fare from Euston." "Euston," I repeated vaguely, for the
+phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia. "What on
+earth has Euston got to do with it?" "You hailed me just outside Euston
+Station," began the man with astonishing precision, "and then you
+said----" "What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?" I said
+with Christian forbearance; "I took you at the south-west corner of
+Leicester-square." "Leicester-square," he exclaimed, loosening a kind of
+cataract of scorn, "why we ain't been near Leicester-square to-day. You
+hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----" "Are you mad, or am
+I?" I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would think of
+creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie. And this man was
+not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human face was heavy and simple and
+humble, and with great big blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever
+(in short) a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and down the
+street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming on. And for one
+second the old nightmare of the sceptic put its finger on my nerve. What
+was certainty? Was anybody certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the
+dull rut of the sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future
+life. The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we possess a
+past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically considered, except
+a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew deeper from the road. The
+cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate details of the gesture, the
+words, the complex but consistent course of action which I had adopted
+since that remarkable occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston
+Station. How did I know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not
+hailed him outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite
+equally firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I,
+and a member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment the
+universe and the stars swung just a hair's breadth from their balance,
+and the foundations of the earth were moved. But for the same reason
+that I believe in Democracy, for the same reason that I believe in free
+will, for the same reason that I believe in fixed character of virtue,
+the reason that could only be expressed by saying that I do not choose
+to be a lunatic, I continued to believe that this honest cabman was
+wrong, and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and ponderous
+sincerity, "You hailed me outside Euston Station, and you said----"
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind of frightful
+transfiguration of living astonishment, as if he had been lit up like
+a lamp from the inside. "Why, I beg your pardon, sir," he said. "I beg
+your pardon. I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I
+remember now. I beg your pardon." And with that this astonishing man let
+out his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+.....
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance and the
+mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying that although his
+face had seemed so honest there was something unearthly and demoniac
+about him when seen from behind. Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me
+from my adherence to those sanities and certainties which I had defended
+earlier in the day. In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that
+my sense of reality, though it had rocked for an instant, had remained
+erect.
+
+
+
+
+VI. An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called "The
+Extraordinary Cabman." I am now in a position to contribute my
+experience of a still more extraordinary cab. The extraordinary thing
+about the cab was that it did not like me; it threw me out violently in
+the middle of the Strand. If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are
+as romantic (and as rich) as I take them to be, I presume that this
+experience is not uncommon. I suppose that they are all being thrown out
+of cabs, all over London. Still, as there are some people, virginal and
+remote from the world, who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I
+will give a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--that
+one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged, will
+gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that it is
+both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in these two
+respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came to grief.
+But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it belongs to a
+beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is pretending to be
+richer than they are, and acting as if they were. It is comfortable, and
+yet it is reckless; and that combination is the very soul of England.
+But although I had always realised all these good qualities in a hansom
+cab, I had not experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put
+it, all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits of a
+hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up. Let me,
+therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom cab for the
+first and, I am happy to believe, the last time. Polycrates threw one
+ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates. I have thrown one hansom
+cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather violent metaphor) and the
+Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated. Though I am told they do not
+like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one of the
+sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own admirable
+articles with continual pleasure, and still more continual surprise,
+when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment on the scraping stones,
+staggered to his feet again, and went forward. The horses in my cabs
+often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy my own articles at any angle
+of the vehicle. So I did not see anything at all odd about the way
+the horse went on again. But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the
+people on the pavement. They were all turned towards me, and they were
+all struck with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky. And
+one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the elbow as if
+warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse. Then I knew that
+the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse was like a living
+thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly as they seemed to me;
+many details I may have missed or mis-stated; many details may have,
+so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road. I remember that I
+once called one of my experiences narrated in this paper "A Fragment of
+Fact." This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact. No fact could possibly
+be more fragmentary than the sort of fact that I expected to be at the
+bottom of that street.
+
+.....
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally found that
+the converted do not understand their own religion. Thus I have always
+urged in this paper that democracy has a deeper meaning than democrats
+understand; that is, that common and popular things, proverbs, and
+ordinary sayings always have something in them unrealised by most who
+repeat them. Here is one. We have all heard about the man who is in
+momentary danger, and who sees the whole of his life pass before him
+in a moment. In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is
+obviously a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident or
+a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets he had ever
+taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever passed the brown
+bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards the traffic
+of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth behind this phrase,
+as there is behind all popular phrases. I did really have, in that short
+and shrieking period, a rapid succession of a number of fundamental
+points of view. I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as
+many seconds. My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere
+men is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded a
+state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper name has ever
+been found. The ancients called it Stoicism, and I think it must be what
+some German lunatics mean (if they mean anything) when they talk
+about Pessimism. It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that
+happens--as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously
+enough, came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic. It was
+a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that life was much
+too important ever to be anything but life. I hope that this was
+Christianity. At any rate, it occurred at the moment when we went crash
+into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling out from
+underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they must have added
+enormously to that great cause to which the Anti-Puritan League and I
+have recently dedicated ourselves. I mean the cause of the pleasures of
+the people. As to my demeanour when I emerged, I have two confessions to
+make, and they are both made merely in the interests of mental science.
+The first is that whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the
+moment before the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got
+off with a cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped. I can
+distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state of irremediable
+spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now, and I apologise both to
+the man and to the paper. I have not the least idea what was the meaning
+of this unnatural anger; I mention it as a psychological confession. It
+was immediately followed by extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly
+jokes to the policeman that he disgraced himself by continual laughter
+before all the little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him
+seriously.
+
+.....
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention as
+a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain. At intervals of
+about every three minutes I kept on reminding the policeman that I had
+not paid the cabman, and that I hoped he would not lose his money. He
+said it would be all right, and the man would appear. But it was not
+until about half an hour afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a
+shock intolerable that the man might conceivably have lost more
+than half a crown; that he had been in danger as well as I. I had
+instinctively regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents,
+a god. I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more
+delicate charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin,
+and neglect the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I
+was once really tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might
+have been dead. Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross
+Hospital tied up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand.
+I felt upon me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something
+untried. So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+
+
+VII. The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement and
+casting about for some phrase of consolation that should not be either
+insolent or weak, said at last, "I think one can live through these
+great sorrows and even be the better. What wears one is the little
+worries." "That's quite right, mum," answered the old woman with
+emphasis, "and I ought to know, seeing I've had ten of 'em." It is,
+perhaps, in this sense that it is most true that little worries are most
+wearing. In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a
+truth, contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the right to say
+that they find the small ones the most bitter; and it is undoubtedly
+true that the back which is bowed under loads incredible can feel a
+faint addition to those loads; a giant holding up the earth and all
+its animal creation might still find the grasshopper a burden. But I
+am afraid that the maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is
+sometimes used or abused by people, because they have nothing but the
+very smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity she
+would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman may permit
+himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he would behave much
+better if it were a mere matter of starvation. We need not deny that
+the grasshopper on man's shoulder is a burden; but we need not pay much
+respect to the gentleman who is always calling out that he would rather
+have an elephant when he knows there are no elephants in the country. We
+may concede that a straw may break the camel's back, but we like to know
+that it really is the last straw and not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right to grumble,
+so long as they grumble about something else. It is a singular fact that
+if they are sane they almost always do grumble about something else. To
+talk quite reasonably about your own quite real wrongs is the quickest
+way to go off your head. But people with great troubles talk about
+little ones, and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very
+often has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly a very
+clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified in asking
+that he shall not make mountains out of molehills. I do no deny that
+molehills can sometimes be important. Small annoyances have this
+evil about them, that they can be more abrupt because they are more
+invisible; they cast no shadow before, they have no atmosphere. No
+one ever had a mystical premonition that he was going to tumble over a
+hassock. William III. died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose
+that with all his varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a
+mountain. But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask
+a happy man (not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences,
+and even make them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive
+poverty I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts, finding
+unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse, finding
+punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures to be drawn
+from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence because I have
+recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures which arise
+from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot, with the only
+alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--a stork is a
+poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if the thing
+itself symbolise something other than isolation. If we wish to see what
+a house is it must be a house in some uninhabited landscape. If we wish
+to depict what a man really is we must depict a man alone in a desert or
+on a dark sea sand. So long as he is a single figure he means all that
+humanity means; so long as he is solitary he means human society; so
+long as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship. Add another
+figure and the picture is less human--not more so. One is company, two
+is none. If you wish to symbolise human building draw one dark tower on
+the horizon; if you wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the
+sky. Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we call our day
+there is but one star in the sky--a large, fierce star which we call the
+sun. One sun is splendid; six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of
+Giotto is sublime; a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row
+of white posts. The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower;
+the poetry of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping the
+single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find the poetry of
+all human anatomy in standing on a single leg. To express complete and
+perfect leggishness the leg must stand in sublime isolation, like the
+tower in the wilderness. As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is
+that which stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity of some Doric
+column. The students of architecture tell us that the only legitimate
+use of a column is to support weight. This column of mine fulfils its
+legitimate function. It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic
+consistency, it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness or dislocation
+of the one leg may find compensation in the astonishing strength and
+classic beauty of the other leg. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr.
+George Meredith's novel might pass by at any moment, and seeing me in
+the stork-like attitude would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more
+literal exactitude, "He has a leg." Notice how this famous literary
+phrase supports my contention touching this isolation of any admirable
+thing. Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg. She
+delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive fact
+that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous and irrelevant,
+a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have confused Mrs.
+Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London. That having had one
+good leg he should have another--this would be to use vain repetitions
+as the Gentiles do. She would have been as much bewildered by him as if
+he had been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity, all
+desolation has for its real aim this separation of something so that it
+may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel grateful for the slight
+sprain which has introduced this mysterious and fascinating division
+between one of my feet and the other. The way to love anything is to
+realise that it might be lost. In one of my feet I can feel how strong
+and splendid a foot is; in the other I can realise how very much
+otherwise it might have been. The moral of the thing is wholly
+exhilarating. This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us. If you
+wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself if only for a
+moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully and wonderfully God's image
+is made, stand on one leg. If you want to realise the splendid vision of
+all visible things--wink the other eye.
+
+
+
+
+VIII. The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious town
+of Besancon, which stands like a sort of peninsula in a horse-shoe of
+river. You may learn from the guide books that it was the birthplace of
+Victor Hugo, and that it is a military station with many forts, near the
+French frontier. But you will not learn from guide books that the very
+tiles on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate colour
+than the tiles of all the other towns of the world; that the tiles look
+like the little clouds of some strange sunset, or like the lustrous
+scales of some strange fish. They will not tell you that in this
+town the eye cannot rest on anything without finding it in some way
+attractive and even elvish, a carved face at a street corner, a gleam of
+green fields through a stunted arch, or some unexpected colour for the
+enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+.....
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours so simple
+and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together and make a fairy
+tale. I sat down for a little outside a cafe with a row of little toy
+trees in front of it, and presently the driver of a fly (as we should
+call it) came to the same place. He was one of those very large and dark
+Frenchmen, a type not common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian
+Frenchman, huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was
+a sort of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but
+English. And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two
+nations. For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets, this
+Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--as if pleasure
+were a kind of pagan religion. After some talk which was full of the
+admirable civility and equality of French civilisation, he suggested
+without either eagerness or embarrassment that he should take me in his
+fly for an hour's ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was
+growing late I consented; for there was one long white road under an
+archway and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord. We
+drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans, and I
+remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we passed out of
+the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds which are the trinity
+of France. They make what some poet calls "a tangled trinity," and I am
+not going to disentangle it. Whatever those three things mean, how
+or why they co-exist; whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are
+reconciled already; the three sounds I heard then by an accident all
+at once make up the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino
+gardens behind me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some
+ramping tune from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on
+I heard also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible
+loyalties and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+.....
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having left
+France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world. And, indeed,
+there was something in the landscape wild enough to encourage such
+a fancy. I have seen perhaps higher mountains, but I have never
+seen higher rocks; I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and
+sensational, splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of
+churches, cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from
+heaven. There was also a quality in the ride which was not only
+astonishing, but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have
+noticed if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads. I mean
+a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole earth turning about one's
+head. It is quite inadequate to say that the hills rose and fell like
+enormous waves. Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the
+enormous sails of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic
+wings. As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset
+this dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof. I stared
+at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a wooded plain. Below
+me steeps of green swept down to the river. I stared at them until I
+fancied that they swept up to the sky. The purple darkened, night drew
+nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer the chasms and draw higher the
+spires of that nightmare landscape. Above me in the twilight was
+the huge black hulk of the driver, and his broad, blank back was as
+mysterious as the back of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I was
+growing too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things. I
+called out to the driver in French, "Where are you taking me?" and it
+is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same language
+without turning around, "To the end of the world."
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark, steep ways, until
+I saw lights under a low roof of little trees and two children, one
+oddly beautiful, playing at ball. Then we found ourselves filling up the
+strict main street of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was
+written in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place. I ordered
+bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but had no name. On
+the other side of the road was a little plain church with a cross on top
+of it and a cock on top of the cross. This seemed to me a very good end
+of the world; if the story of the world ended here it ended well. Then
+I wondered whether I myself should really be content to end here, where
+most certainly there were the best things of Christendom--a church and
+children's games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me, and at
+last I started up.
+
+"Are you not satisfied?" asked my companion. "No," I said, "I am not
+satisfied even at the end of the world."
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, "Because you see there are two ends of
+the world. And this is the wrong end of the world; at least the wrong
+one for me. This is the French end of the world. I want the other end of
+the world. Drive me to the other end of the world."
+
+"The other end of the world?" he asked. "Where is that?"
+
+"It is in Walham Green," I whispered hoarsely. "You see it on the London
+omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.' Oh, I know how good this is;
+I love your vineyards and your free peasantry, but I want the English
+end of the world. I love you like a brother, but I want an English
+cabman, who will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman. Take, oh, take me
+to see a London policeman."
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset, and I could
+not tell whether he understood or not. I got back into his carriage.
+
+"You will understand," I said, "if ever you are an exile even for
+pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country, as a
+countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is rather too long
+a drive to the English end of the world, we may as well drive back to
+Besancon."
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept for Walham
+Green.
+
+
+
+
+IX. In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a cafe in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with a
+capering figure, which stands in the place where the people destroyed a
+prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious example of how symbolic
+is the great part of human history. As a matter of mere material fact,
+the Bastille when it was taken was not a horrible prison; it was hardly
+a prison at all. But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a
+sure instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance, at the last
+General Election, or for President Kruger's hat in the election before;
+their poetic sense is perfect. The Chinaman with his pigtail is not
+an idle flippancy. He does typify with a compact precision exactly
+the thing the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots, that it
+is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy and evil magic
+calling monsters from the ends of the earth. The people hate the mine
+owner who can bring a Chinaman flying across the sea, exactly as the
+people hated the wizard who could fetch a flying dragon through the air.
+It was the same with Mr. Kruger's hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was
+not merely a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the
+exact thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the unbeautiful
+dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of political morality.
+No; the people are sometimes wrong on the practical side of politics;
+they are never wrong on the artistic side.
+
+.....
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform. It was
+an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image. The people saw the
+building like a giant looking at them with a score of eyes, and they
+struck at it as at a carved fact. For of all the shapes in which that
+immense illusion called materialism can terrify the soul, perhaps the
+most oppressive are big buildings. Man feels like a fly, an accident,
+in the thing he has himself made. It requires a violent effort of the
+spirit to remember that man made this confounding thing and man could
+unmake it. Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual, a ritual
+meaning far beyond its immediate political results. It is a religious
+service. If, for instance, the Socialists were numerous or courageous
+enough to capture and smash up the Bank of England, you might argue for
+ever about the inutility of the act, and how it really did not touch the
+root of the economic problem in the correct manner. But mankind would
+never forget it. It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength of a society,
+for the most valuable things in a human state are the irrevocable
+things--marriage, for instance. And architecture approaches nearer than
+any other art to being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get
+rid of. You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall. You
+can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of very sincere emotion
+that you tear a town-hall to pieces. A building is akin to dogma; it
+is insolent, like a dogma. Whether or no it is permanent, it claims
+permanence like a dogma. People ask why we have no typical architecture
+of the modern world, like impressionism in painting. Surely it is
+obviously because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in the sky that
+does not change like the clouds of the sky. But along with this decision
+which is involved in creating a building, there goes a quite similar
+decision in the more delightful task of smashing one. The two of
+necessity go together. In few places have so many fine public buildings
+been set up as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been
+destroyed. When people have finally got into the horrible habit of
+preserving buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few are
+pulled down.
+
+.....
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty and
+Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like so many
+such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and silent line of
+horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and prosaic enough,
+but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their helmets; and their
+helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans. I had seen them
+by twos and threes often enough before. I had seen plenty of them in
+pictures toiling through the snows of Friedland or roaring round
+the squares at Waterloo. But now they came file after file, like an
+invasion, and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that
+lit up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie into
+which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet and cry out,
+"The French soldiers!" There were the little men with the brown faces
+that had so often ridden through the capitals of Europe as coolly as
+they now rode through their own. And when I looked across the square I
+saw that the two other corners were choked with blue and red; held
+by little groups of infantry. The city was garrisoned as against a
+revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker. He
+said he was not going to "Chomer." I said, "Qu'est-ce que c'est que le
+chome?" He said, "Ils ne veulent pas travailler." I said, "Ni moi non
+plus," and he thought I was a class-conscious collectivist proletarian.
+The whole thing was curious, and the true moral of it one not easy for
+us, as a nation, to grasp, because our own faults are so deeply and
+dangerously in the other direction. To me, as an Englishman (personally
+steeped in the English optimism and the English dislike of severity),
+the whole thing seemed a fuss about nothing. It looked like turning out
+one of the best armies in Europe against ordinary people walking
+about the street. The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less
+harmlessly. But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not) as docile as
+the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled, so to speak,
+through the whole noisy night. This people has a natural faculty for
+feeling itself on the eve of something--of the Bartholomew or the
+Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment. It is this sense of
+crisis that makes France eternally young. It is perpetually pulling down
+and building up, as it pulled down the prison and put up the column
+in the Place de La Bastille. France has always been at the point of
+dissolution. She has found the only method of immortality. She dies
+daily.
+
+
+
+
+X. On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience if
+only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic apparatus on the
+premises. I think myself that the thing might be managed with several
+pails of Aspinall and a broom. Only if one worked in a really sweeping
+and masterly way, and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip
+down again on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages. I am afraid
+it would be necessary to stick to black and white in this form of
+artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed, the white ceiling would
+be of the greatest possible use; in fact, it is the only use I think of
+a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces in
+a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, "Il me faut des geants."
+But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern rooms
+such as we all live in I was continually disappointed. I found an
+endless pattern and complication of small objects hung like a curtain of
+fine links between me and my desire. I examined the walls; I found them
+to my surprise to be already covered with wallpaper, and I found the
+wallpaper to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand why one
+arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely devoid of any religious
+or philosophical significance) should thus be sprinkled all over my
+nice walls like a sort of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to
+wallpapers, I think, when it says, "Use not vain repetitions, as the
+Gentiles do." I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called Turkish
+Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight really is; but I
+suppose it is Macedonian Massacres. Everywhere that I went forlornly,
+with my pencil or my paint brush, I found that others had unaccountably
+been before me, spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with
+their childish and barbaric designs.
+
+.....
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this
+occasion when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying
+on my back in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my
+vision, that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom. But alas!
+like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found to be unattainable;
+it looks more austere and more distant than the blue sky outside the
+window. For my proposal to paint on it with the bristly end of a broom
+has been discouraged--never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all
+political rights--and even my minor proposal to put the other end of
+the broom into the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been
+conceded. Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that
+all the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods. I am
+sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged in the ancient
+and honourable occupation of lying in bed that he ever realized how the
+roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made into an awful imitation of a
+divine drama that could only be acted in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed is
+hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity that seem to
+mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing and dangerous than
+the exultation of very small and secondary matters of conduct at the
+expense of very great and primary ones, at the expense of eternal ties
+and tragic human morality. If there is one thing worse than the modern
+weakening of major morals, it is the modern strengthening of minor
+morals. Thus it is considered more withering to accuse a man of bad
+taste than of bad ethics. Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays,
+for cleanliness is made essential and godliness is regarded as an
+offence. A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long as
+he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met Ibsenite
+pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right to take prussic
+acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene; notably such matters
+as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded, as it ought to be, as
+a matter of personal convenience and adjustment, it has come to be
+regarded by many as if it were a part of essential morals to get up
+early in the morning. It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but
+there is nothing good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+.....
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed, get
+up the night before. It is the great peril of our society that all its
+mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows more fickle.
+A man's minor actions and arrangements ought to be free, flexible,
+creative; the things that should be unchangeable are his principles, his
+ideals. But with us the reverse is true; our views change constantly;
+but our lunch does not change. Now, I should like men to have strong and
+rooted conceptions, but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes
+in the garden, sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the
+top of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles, but let
+them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon. This alarming growth of
+good habits really means a too great emphasis on those virtues which
+mere custom can ensure, it means too little emphasis on those virtues
+which custom can never quite ensure, sudden and splendid virtues of
+inspired pity or of inspired candour. If ever that abrupt appeal is made
+to us we may fail. A man can get use to getting up at five o'clock in
+the morning. A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his
+opinions; the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little
+more attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed of an
+almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed (like
+journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done in bed (as,
+for example, the professional harpooners of whales), it is obvious that
+the indulgence must be very occasional. But that is not the caution
+I mean. The caution is this: if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it
+without any reason or justification at all. I do not speak, of course,
+of the seriously sick. But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it
+without a rag of excuse; then he will get up a healthy man. If he
+does it for some secondary hygienic reason, if he has some scientific
+explanation, he may get up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+
+
+XI. The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I
+was, so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden and
+arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea, and
+my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were also
+summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions of
+men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began with a
+C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping alphabetical
+way. At one official blow, so to speak, Battersea is denuded of all its
+C's, and left to get on as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A
+Cumberpatch is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--three
+Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children are crying out
+for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street corner is weeping
+for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted. We settle down with a
+rollicking ease into our seats (for we are a bold, devil-may-care race,
+the C's of Battersea), and an oath is administered to us in a totally
+inaudible manner by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his
+second childhood. We understand, however, that we are to well and truly
+try the case between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the
+bar, neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+.....
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner were,
+perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some adjoining public
+house, the prisoner's head appears above the barrier of the dock; he
+is accused of stealing bicycles, and he is the living image of a great
+friend of mine. We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the prisoner in
+the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the conclusion, after a brief
+but reasonable discussion, that the King is not in any way implicated.
+Then we pass on to a woman who neglected her children, and who looks as
+if somebody or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who
+fancy that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances and the brain
+passed these light criticisms, there was in the heart a barbaric pity
+and fear which men have never been able to utter from the beginning, but
+which is the power behind half the poems of the world. The mood cannot
+even adequately be suggested, except faintly by this statement that
+tragedy is the highest expression of the infinite value of human
+life. Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away from
+pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these dark emotions
+at all, for speech about them is too difficult; but I mention them now
+for a specific and particular reason to the statement of which I will
+proceed at once. I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of
+them there came a curious realisation of a political or social truth. I
+saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what a jury really
+is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers because
+they fight better, trained singers because they sing better, trained
+dancers because they dance better, specially instructed laughers because
+they laugh better, and so on and so on. The principle has been applied
+to law and politics by innumerable modern writers. Many Fabians have
+insisted that a greater part of our political work should be performed
+by experts. Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should
+be altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+.....
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable, I do
+not know that there would be any fault to find with this. But the true
+result of all experience and the true foundation of all religion is
+this. That the four or five things that it is most practically essential
+that a man should know, are all of them what people call paradoxes. That
+is to say, that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty of seeming
+verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance, is the unimpeachable
+platitude that the man who finds most pleasure for himself is often the
+man who least hunts for it. Another is the paradox of courage; the fact
+that the way to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful cliff
+above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness. Whoever will
+lose his life, the same shall save it; an entirely practical and prosaic
+statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught to every
+infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following: That the more a
+man looks at a thing, the less he can see it, and the more a man learns
+a thing the less he knows it. The Fabian argument of the expert,
+that the man who is trained should be the man who is trusted would be
+absolutely unanswerable if it were really true that a man who studied
+a thing and practiced it every day went on seeing more and more of its
+significance. But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its
+significance. In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we
+are continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility, seeing
+less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+.....
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of
+men. But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can to
+other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun. And
+the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best, about all
+judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen, is not
+that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they are stupid
+(several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply that they have got
+used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they see is
+the usual man in the usual place. They do not see the awful court of
+judgment; they only see their own workshop. Therefore, the instinct
+of Christian civilisation has most wisely declared that into their
+judgments there shall upon every occasion be infused fresh blood and
+fresh thoughts from the streets. Men shall come in who can see the court
+and the crowd, and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional
+criminals, the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture or a
+play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided, that determining
+the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too important to be trusted to
+trained men. It wishes for light upon that awful matter, it asks men who
+know no more law than I know, but who can feel the things that I felt
+in the jury box. When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system
+discovered, or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when
+it wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve of
+the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I remember
+right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+
+
+XII. The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf about
+the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks and roars in
+something that is at once exultation and agony. I feel, in fact, as if
+I were actually sitting at the bottom of the sea among mere anchors and
+ropes, while over my head and over the green twilight of water sounded
+the everlasting rush of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of
+tremendous ships. The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck
+them root and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy, the
+trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they were a tribe of
+dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible and violent
+witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind. I remember a little boy of
+my acquaintance who was once walking in Battersea Park under just such
+torn skies and tossing trees. He did not like the wind at all; it blew
+in his face too much; it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his
+hat, of which he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about
+four. After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said at
+last to his mother, "Well, why don't you take away the trees, and then
+it wouldn't wind."
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake. Any
+one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy that they were
+indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere waving agitated the
+air around them for miles. Nothing, I say, could be more human and
+excusable than the belief that it is the trees which make the wind.
+Indeed, the belief is so human and excusable that it is, as a matter
+of fact, the belief of about ninety-nine out of a hundred of the
+philosophers, reformers, sociologists, and politicians of the great age
+in which we live. My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal
+modern thinkers; only much nicer.
+
+.....
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour of
+inventing, the trees stand for all visible things and the wind for the
+invisible. The wind is the spirit which bloweth where it listeth; the
+trees are the material things of the world which are blown where the
+spirit lists. The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees
+are cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind because
+the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad. We only know that there
+is a real revolution because all the chimney-pots go mad on the whole
+skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more ragged and
+rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails, so the human city rises
+under the wind of the spirit into toppling temples or sudden spires. No
+man has ever seen a revolution. Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood
+pouring down the gutters, the guillotine lifted higher than the throne,
+a prison in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind. So,
+also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that there is a
+revolution. And there never has been in the history of the world a real
+revolution, brutally active and decisive, which was not preceded by
+unrest and new dogma in the reign of invisible things. All revolutions
+began by being abstract. Most revolutions began by being quite
+pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved. So
+there must always be a battle in the sky before there is a battle on the
+earth. Since it is lawful to pray for the coming of the kingdom, it is
+lawful also to pray for the coming of the revolution that shall restore
+the kingdom. It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the
+trees. It is lawful to pray "Thine anger come on earth as it is in
+Heaven."
+
+.....
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees. The great
+human heresy is that the trees move the wind. When people begin to
+say that the material circumstances have alone created the moral
+circumstances, then they have prevented all possibility of serious
+change. For if my circumstances have made me wholly stupid, how can I be
+certain even that I am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment is
+simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--including
+that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate authority is
+necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking. And nothing will
+ever be reformed in this age or country unless we realise that the moral
+fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard in
+debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists and
+total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty; the former
+say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their either of
+them being content with such simple physical explanations. Surely it
+is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat leads to
+poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink; the absence
+of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct that resists
+degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has this
+quality, which may strictly be called "hand to mouth," because under
+its influence a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth, instead of
+seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose. And a man who
+says that the English inequality in land is due only to economic causes,
+or that the drunkenness of England is due only to economic causes, is
+saying something so absurd that he cannot really have thought what he
+was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under the
+influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the economic
+theory of history. We have people who represent that all great historic
+motives were economic, and then have to howl at the top of their voices
+in order to induce the modern democracy to act on economic motives. The
+extreme Marxian politicians in England exhibit themselves as a small,
+heroic minority, trying vainly to induce the world to do what, according
+to their theory, the world always does. The truth is, of course, that
+there will be a social revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be
+purely economic. You can never have a revolution in order to establish a
+democracy. You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+.....
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight rain have
+ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars in a clear sunlight.
+The tossing of the trees and the blowing of the wind have ceased
+simultaneously. So I suppose there are still modern philosophers who
+will maintain that the trees make the wind.
+
+
+
+
+XIII. The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw
+hat; with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers, but
+with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes. He was gazing with a
+rather gloomy interest at the cluster, one might almost say the tangle,
+of small shipping which grew thicker as our little pleasure boat crawled
+up into Yarmouth Harbour. A boat entering this harbour, as every one
+knows, does not enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps
+round at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear. The
+passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic, and in
+consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed under a timber
+ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens like a cathedral,
+the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden figurehead carved like a
+woman, and said, like one continuing a conversation, "Now, why have they
+left off having them. They didn't do any one any harm?"
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note. There has
+been something in our most recent civilisation which is mysteriously
+hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+"They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty," he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. "I believe they broke up all the jolly old
+figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it."
+
+"Like Mr. Quilp," I answered, "when he battered the wooden Admiral with
+the poker."
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time he stood
+erect and stared at me.
+
+"Do you come to Yarmouth for that?" he asked.
+
+"For what?"
+
+"For Dickens," he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+"No," I answered; "I come for fun, though that is much the same thing."
+
+"I always come," he answered quietly, "to find Peggotty's boat. It isn't
+here."
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred to the people
+who live there. I myself have never come to the end of the list of
+Batterseas. But there are two to the stranger and tourist; the poor
+part, which is dignified, and the prosperous part, which is savagely
+vulgar. My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost; to the
+latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+"The place is very much spoilt now... trippers, you know," he would say,
+not at all scornfully, but simply sadly. That was the nearest he would
+go to an admission of the monstrous watering place that lay along
+the front, outblazing the sun, and more deafening than the sea. But
+behind--out of earshot of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that
+they seem like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose. There
+are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one of them is
+like plunging into a pool. In these places the man and I paced up and
+down talking about Dickens, or, rather, doing what all true Dickensians
+do, telling each other verbatim long passages which both of us knew
+quite well already. We were really in the atmosphere of the older
+England. Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters like
+Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and bought pipe-stoppers
+carved into figures from Pickwick. The evening was settling down between
+all the buildings with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when
+we went into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+"Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant for the
+angel at the sepulchre."
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+"I daresay," he said. "What is there odd about that?"
+
+After a pause I said, "Do you remember what the angel at the sepulchre
+said?"
+
+"Not particularly," he answered; "but where are you off to in such a
+hurry?"
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the fishermen's
+almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring indignantly where I
+was going.
+
+"I am going," I said, "to put pennies in automatic machines on the
+beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going to have my
+photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer out of its original
+bottle. I will buy some picture postcards. I do want a boat. I am ready
+to listen to a concertina, and but for the defects of my education
+should be ready to play it. I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is,
+if the donkey is willing. I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was
+commanded me by the angel in the stained-glass window."
+
+"I really think," said the Dickensian, "that I had better put you in
+charge of your relations."
+
+"Sir," I answered, "there are certain writers to whom humanity owes
+much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective a
+type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places or certain
+perishing associations. It would not be unnatural to look for the spirit
+of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill, or even for the shade of Thackeray
+in Old Kensington. But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for
+Dickens is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury, but he
+would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy, but it would
+be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it. We will not have all
+his books bound up under the title of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather
+we will have them all bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.'
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make something of it,
+swallow it with a holy cannibalism, and assimilate it with the digestion
+of a giant. We must take these trippers as he would have taken them, and
+tear out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember now what
+the angel said at the sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the living among the dead?
+He is not here; he is risen.'"
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands, which
+were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite desperate
+democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory, flung far
+over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic firelight
+of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure looked at once
+grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell. I heard a little
+girl (who was being throttled by another little girl) say by way of
+self-vindication, "My sister-in-law 'as got four rings aside her weddin'
+ring!"
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+
+
+XIV. In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees and the
+secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world moving under
+the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor merely because I
+happened to be writing the article in a wood. Nevertheless, now that I
+return to Fleet Street (which seems to me, I confess, much better and
+more poetical than all the wild woods in the world), I am strangely
+haunted by this accidental comparison. The people's figures seem a
+forest and their soul a wind. All the human personalities which speak or
+signal to me seem to have this fantastic character of the fringe of the
+forest against the sky. That man that talks to me, what is he but an
+articulate tree? That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me
+to tell me to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches
+stirred and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can
+continue to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering my
+person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that blast
+of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy? Gradually this
+impression of the woods wears off. But this black-and-white contrast
+between the visible and invisible, this deep sense that the one
+essential belief is belief in the invisible as against the visible,
+is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind. Exactly at
+the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is, most
+bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet, on
+which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?"
+
+.....
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well have turned upside
+down. The men in Fleet Street might have been walking about on their
+hands. The cross of St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside
+down. For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe that the
+waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say, they believe
+that the material circumstances, however black and twisted, are more
+important than the spiritual realities, however powerful and pure.
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?" I am puzzled to think what some periods
+and schools of human history would have made of such a question. The
+ascetics of the East or of some periods of the early Church would have
+thought that the question meant, "Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?" But
+I suppose that is not what the purple poster means. In some pagan cities
+it might have meant, "Shall slaves so vile as shop assistants even be
+allowed to propagate their abject race?" But I suppose that is not what
+the purple poster meant. We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what
+it does mean. It does really mean that a section of the human race
+is asking whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are
+particularly good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether
+Adam and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove. If this
+is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be. We ask whether
+the universal institution will improve our (please God) temporary
+institution. Yet I have known many such questions. For instance, I have
+known a man ask seriously, "Does Democracy help the Empire?" Which is
+like saying, "Is art favourable to frescoes?"
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked. But if the world
+ever runs short of them, I can suggest a large number of questions of
+precisely the same kind, based on precisely the same principle.
+
+"Do Feet Improve Boots?"--"Is Bread Better when Eaten?"--"Should
+Hats have Heads in them?"--"Do People Spoil a Town?"--"Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?"--"Should Neckties enclose Necks?"--"Do Hands Hurt
+Walking-sticks?"--"Does Burning Destroy Firewood?"--"Is Cleanliness Good
+for Soap?"--"Can Cricket Really Improve Cricket-bats?"--"Shall We Take
+Brides with our Wedding Rings?" and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport or in
+intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from the
+purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by half of the
+earnest economists of our times. All the questions they ask are of this
+character; they are all tinged with this same initial absurdity. They do
+not ask if the means is suited to the end; they all ask (with profound
+and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited to the means. They do
+not ask whether the tail suits the dog. They all ask whether a dog is
+(by the highest artistic canons) the most ornamental appendage that can
+be put at the end of a tail. In short, instead of asking whether our
+modern arrangements, our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete
+institutions are suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy
+human life, they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments; and then they
+only ask whether that healthy human life is suited to our streets and
+trades. Perfection may be attainable or unattainable as an end. It may
+or may not be possible to talk of imperfection as a means to perfection.
+But surely it passes toleration to talk of perfection as a means to
+imperfection. The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream. But
+surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem is a reality
+on the road to Birmingham.
+
+.....
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret of the
+modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought to be simple
+enough. A really human human being would always put the spiritual
+things first. A walking and speaking statue of God finds himself at
+one particular moment employed as a shop assistant. He has in himself
+a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity, a thirst for some
+loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary course of things he
+asks himself, "How far do the existing conditions of those assisting in
+shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny in the matter of love and
+marriage?" But here, as I have said, comes in the quiet and crushing
+power of modern materialism. It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he
+would otherwise do. By perpetually talking about environment and visible
+things, by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron machinery
+and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of towers of stone, modern
+materialism at last produces this tremendous impression in which the
+truth is stated upside down. At last the result is achieved. The man
+does not say as he ought to have said, "Should married men endure being
+modern shop assistants?" The man says, "Should shop assistants marry?"
+Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism. The
+slave does not say, "Are these chains worthy of me?" The slave says
+scientifically and contentedly, "Am I even worthy of these chains?"
+
+
+
+
+XV. What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have made
+the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat, with an astracan
+moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache. Whether he put on the
+moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic will enabled him not
+only to grow a moustache in the usual place, but also to grow little
+moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know. I only remember that he
+said to me the following words: "A man can't get on nowadays by hanging
+about with his hands in his pockets." I made reply with the quite
+obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got on by having his hands in other
+people's pockets; whereupon he began to argue about Moral Evolution, so
+I suppose what I said had some truth in it. But the incident now comes
+back to me, and connects itself with another incident--if you can call
+it an incident--which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I had
+at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief; I
+had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets are still
+there; the same presumption applies to the things that I have dropped
+into the sea. But I regard the riches stored in both these bottomless
+chasms with the same reverent ignorance. They tell us that on the
+last day the sea will give up its dead; and I suppose that on the same
+occasion long strings of extraordinary things will come running out of
+my pockets. But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all surprised
+at finding among them.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence. I here only wish
+briefly to recall the special, extraordinary, and hitherto unprecedented
+circumstances which led me in cold blood, and being of sound mind, to
+turn out my pockets. I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a
+rather long journey. The time was towards evening, but it might have
+been anything, for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting sheet of
+quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers. I had not even a
+pencil and a scrap of paper with which to write a religious epic. There
+were no advertisements on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could
+have plunged into the study, for any collection of printed words is
+quite enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity. When
+I find myself opposite the words "Sunlight Soap" I can exhaust all the
+aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer poetry before I go on to the
+less congenial subject of soap. But there was no printed word or picture
+anywhere; there was nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank
+wet without. Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can be,
+uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats, and
+began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood. Just as I had
+begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ was a carpenter,
+rather than a bricklayer, or a baker, or anything else, I suddenly
+started upright, and remembered my pockets. I was carrying about with
+me an unknown treasury. I had a British Museum and a South Kensington
+collection of unknown curios hung all over me in different places. I
+began to take the things out.
+
+.....
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of Battersea
+tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase. They shook
+down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course, they touched my
+patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes; also they provided me
+with the printed matter I required, for I found on the back of them some
+short but striking little scientific essays about some kind of pill.
+Comparatively speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might
+be regarded as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my
+railway journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a
+few months longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the
+controversial aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro
+and con upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the cross
+of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper meant all
+that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the greatest hope of
+England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife, I
+need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral meditations
+all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most primary of those
+practical origins upon which as upon low, thick pillows all our human
+civilisation reposes. Metals, the mystery of the thing called iron and
+of the thing called steel, led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream.
+I saw into the intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among
+all the common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth. I saw all the
+swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war. For the knife is
+only a short sword; and the pocket-knife is a secret sword. I opened it
+and looked at that brilliant and terrible tongue which we call a blade;
+and I thought that perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs
+of man. The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing that came
+next out of my pocket was a box of matches. Then I saw fire, which is
+stronger even than steel, the old, fierce female thing, the thing we all
+love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw in it all the art
+and all the frescoes of the world. The next was a coin of a very modest
+value; and I saw in it not only the image and superscription of our own
+Caesar, but all government and order since the world began. But I have
+not space to say what were the items in the long and splendid procession
+of poetical symbols that came pouring out. I cannot tell you all the
+things that were in my pocket. I can tell you one thing, however, that I
+could not find in my pocket. I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+
+
+XVI. The Dragon's Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales. I do not
+mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated in them--that he
+did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into a coach. He did, indeed,
+entertain this curious disbelief. And, like all the other people I
+have ever met who entertained it, he was wholly unable to give me an
+intelligent reason for it. He tried the laws of nature, but he soon
+dropped that. Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary
+experience, and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted
+pumpkinity. But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply the attitude we
+adopt towards all unusual occurrences. If we were certain of miracles
+we should not count on them. Things that happen very seldom we all leave
+out of our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not. I do not
+expect a glass of water to be turned into wine; but neither do I expect
+a glass of water to be poisoned with prussic acid. I do not in ordinary
+business relations act on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but
+neither do I act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is not that the
+natural order is unalterable, but simply that it is much safer to bet
+on uncommon incidents than on common ones. This does not touch the
+credibility of any attested tale about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned
+into a coach. If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined to assume
+that the same thing would happen again. I should not invest largely in
+pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade. Cinderella got a ball dress
+from the fairy; but I do not suppose that she looked after her own
+clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened, though crazy,
+is common. The man I speak of disbelieved in fairy tales in an even more
+amazing and perverted sense. He actually thought that fairy tales
+ought not to be told to children. That is (like a belief in slavery
+or annexation) one of those intellectual errors which lie very near to
+ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which, though they may be
+done what is called conscientiously, yet carry so much of their whole
+horror in the very act of them, that a man must in doing them not only
+harden but slightly corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of
+milk to young mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+.....
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too helpless even
+to find his way to the Church of England. He had a curious green necktie
+and a very long neck; I am always meeting idealists with very long
+necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal aspiration slowly lifts their
+heads nearer and nearer to the stars. Or perhaps it has something to
+do with the fact that so many of them are vegetarians: perhaps they are
+slowly evolving the neck of the giraffe so that they can eat all the
+tops of the trees in Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense
+above me. Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy
+tales; and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had begun
+to read "Grimm's Fairy tales" as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was "Suburban Sue: A Tale of
+Psychology," and also "Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia"; there was
+"Trixy: A Temperament," and "Man-Hate: A Monochrome," and all those nice
+things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough, I grew
+tired of them at last, and when I saw "Grimm's Fairy Tales" lying
+accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy. Here at least,
+here at last, one could find a little common sense. I opened the book,
+and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying words, "The Dragon's
+Grandmother." That at least was reasonable; that at least was true. "The
+Dragon's Grandmother!" While I was rolling this first touch of ordinary
+human reality upon my tongue, I looked up suddenly and saw this monster
+with a green tie standing in the doorway.
+
+.....
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough, I hope;
+but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe in fairy
+tales, I broke out beyond control. "Man," I said, "who are you that you
+should not believe in fairy tales? It is much easier to believe in Blue
+Beard than to believe in you. A blue beard is a misfortune; but there
+are green ties which are sins. It is far easier to believe in a million
+fairy tales than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales. I
+would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all his stories
+as if they were thirty-nine articles than say seriously and out of
+my heart that there can be such a man as you; that you are not some
+temptation of the devil or some delusion from the void. Look at these
+plain, homely, practical words. 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all
+right; that is rational almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was
+a dragon, he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother! If you
+had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales. You had no
+father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you. You cannot
+be. I believe many things which I have not seen; but of such things
+as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he that has seen and yet has
+disbelieved.'"
+
+.....
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy, so I
+moderated my tone. "Can you not see," I said, "that fairy tales in their
+essence are quite solid and straightforward; but that this everlasting
+fiction about modern life is in its nature essentially incredible?
+Folk-lore means that the soul is sane, but that the universe is wild
+and full of marvels. Realism means that the world is dull and full of
+routine, but that the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the
+fairy tale is--what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The
+problem of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins, and
+suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos. In the
+excellent tale of 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other tales of
+Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his travels
+will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave, full
+of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents, keep his word,
+rescue one kind of people, defy another kind, 'parcere subjectis et
+debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed this centre of sanity, the writer
+entertains himself by fancying what would happen if the whole world went
+mad all round it, if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses
+had six legs and giants had two heads. But your modern literature
+takes insanity as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of
+insanity. A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite
+serious; that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is a
+piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass. A man who
+thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken. It is only
+sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity. Therefore, these
+wise old tales made the hero ordinary and the tale extraordinary.
+But you have made the hero extraordinary and the tale ordinary--so
+ordinary--oh, so very ordinary."
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me under the
+hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, "In the name of God
+and Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother--in the name of all good
+things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more." Whether
+or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt that he
+definitely went away.
+
+
+
+
+XVII. The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him I can
+never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest letter
+saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even if
+they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy tales,
+because it frightens them. You might just as well say that it is cruel
+to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry. All this
+kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting of what a child is
+like which has been the firm foundation of so many educational schemes.
+If you keep bogies and goblins away from children they would make them
+up for themselves. One small child in the dark can invent more hells
+than Swedenborg. One small child can imagine monsters too big and
+black to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly and
+cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic. The child, to
+begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he continues to indulge in them
+even when he does not like them. There is just as much difficulty in
+saying exactly where pure pain begins in his case, as there is in ours
+when we walk of our own free will into the torture-chamber of a great
+tragedy. The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+.....
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable; they are
+alarmed at this world, because this world is a very alarming place. They
+dislike being alone because it is verily and indeed an awful idea to be
+alone. Barbarians fear the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics
+worship it--because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear; fairy
+tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly; that is
+in the child already, because it is in the world already. Fairy tales
+do not give the child his first idea of bogey. What fairy tales give the
+child is his first clear idea of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby
+has known the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination. What
+the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him for a series
+of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless terrors had a limit,
+that these shapeless enemies have enemies in the knights of God, that
+there is something in the universe more mystical than darkness, and
+stronger than strong fear. When I was a child I have stared at the
+darkness until the whole black bulk of it turned into one negro giant
+taller than heaven. If there was one star in the sky it only made him a
+Cyclops. But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite equal
+dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself (of similar
+inexperience and even lower social status) by means of a sword, some
+bad riddles, and a brave heart. Sometimes the sea at night seemed as
+dreadful as any dragon. But then I was acquainted with many youngest
+sons and little sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the
+sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery, the
+excellent tale of the "Boy who Could not Shudder," and you will see what
+I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale. I remember specially
+a man's legs which fell down the chimney by themselves and walked about
+the room, until they were rejoined by the severed head and body which
+fell down the chimney after them. That is very good. But the point
+of the story and the point of the reader's feelings is not that these
+things are frightening, but the far more striking fact that the hero was
+not frightened at them. The most fearful of all these fearful wonders
+was his own absence of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked
+the devils to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled
+with some modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his
+spirit. If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it; it is
+the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught to shudder
+by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him. In that one
+sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage than in all the
+books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+.....
+
+At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd
+and St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone. For
+the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in the
+universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted; but
+the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied. As I told "H.
+N. B." (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its most superstitious
+sense), the one thing modern people really do believe in is damnation.
+The greatest of purely modern poets summed up the really modern attitude
+in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+"There may be Heaven; there must be Hell."
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition; and the
+new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin by being
+gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits. Now they are
+beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+.....
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they should
+make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion. For almost all
+the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new, is solemn and sad.
+Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian saints were a little
+too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism are both lawless and
+serious--a disgusting combination. The specially contemporary spirits
+are not only devils, they are blue devils. This is, first and last, the
+real value of Christmas; in so far as the mythology remains at all it
+is a kind of happy mythology. Personally, of course, I believe in Santa
+Claus; but it is the season of forgiveness, and I will forgive others
+for not doing so. But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the
+defect in our world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for
+instance, to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called "The Turn of the
+Screw." It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is
+one of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to
+have been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of the
+foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether Mr.
+Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent, do not
+buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question so doubtful
+that I will give that truly great man a chance. I will approve the thing
+as well as admire it if he will write another tale just as powerful
+about two children and Santa Claus. If he will not, or cannot, then the
+conclusion is clear; we can deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not
+with happy mystery; we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+.....
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil. That is
+exactly what I mean.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII. The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought (though
+not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies of
+architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve the one
+startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts. But this sort of
+sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy and energy
+of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most prosaic
+landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings. Here
+Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable. Here the fields
+are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand, the streets and
+roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind. The waters of wood
+and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly as if they were in the London
+water-pipes. But the parish pump is carved with all the creatures out of
+the wilderness. Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of
+wild animals, but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music
+that are more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast
+at night. And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their
+strength, seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the
+primal mire, and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a
+startled bird.
+
+.....
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit in
+humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only man
+who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man is ever
+undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who are wild.
+And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to all human art,
+it is also generally characteristic of Christian art among the arts
+of the world. This is what people really mean when they say that
+Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance. As a matter of
+historic fact, it didn't; it arose in the most equably civilised period
+the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks the outline
+of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots with anger the
+blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry charge the horses
+of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage, in the sense that it is
+primeval; there is in it a touch of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate
+in which I had praised militant music in ritual, and some one asked me
+if I could imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ definitely
+approved a natural noisiness at a great moment. When the street children
+shouted too loud, certain priggish disciples did begin to rebuke them in
+the name of good taste. He said: "If these were silent the very stones
+would cry out." With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words He
+founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this, which seems to
+have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves, anywhere and anyhow, any odd
+brick or moulding may be carved off into a shouting face. The front of
+vast buildings is thronged with open mouths, angels praising God, or
+devils defying Him. Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to
+scream. The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable in
+the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant things
+in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All Christian
+temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges Belfry is a
+gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like a giraffe. The
+same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind at every corner of
+a Flemish town. And if any one asks, "Why did the people of these flat
+countries instinctively raise these riotous and towering monuments?" the
+only answer one can give is, "Because they were the people of these
+flat countries." If any one asks, "Why the men of Bruges sacrificed
+architecture and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?"
+we can only answer, "Because Nature gave them no encouragement to do
+so."
+
+.....
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some of my
+friends in London who are quite sure of how children will turn out
+if you give them what they call "the right environment." It is a
+troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works positively
+and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two. A beautiful
+environment may make a child love beauty; it may make him bored with
+beauty; most likely the two effects will mix and neutralise each other.
+Most likely, that is, the environment will make hardly any difference at
+all. In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries that had
+owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country is
+hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold; Englishmen
+naval because they are islanders; Switzers free because they are
+mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way. Only unfortunately I am
+quite certain that I could make up quite as long a list exactly contrary
+in its argument point-blank against the influence of their geographical
+environment. Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than
+Scandinavians because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as bravely as Switzers
+because the Dutch have no mountains. Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many
+Mediterranean peoples have specially hated the sea because they had the
+nicest sea to deal with, the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the
+list for ever. But however long it was, two examples would certainly
+stand up in it as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the
+Swiss, who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far the most
+mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe. The other is that
+the people of Belgium, who live in a country like a carpet, have, by an
+inner energy, desired to exalt their towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment, I cannot
+comfort myself with the thought that the modern discussions about
+environment are of much practical value. But I think I will not write
+any more about these modern theories, but go on looking at the Belfry
+of Bruges. I would give them the greater attention if I were not pretty
+well convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+
+
+XIX. How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making a bright
+suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not, I regret to
+say, received with the seriousness it deserved. I suggested that a band
+of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves, should express our
+sense of the pathos of the President's and the Republic's fate by
+growing Kruger beards under our chins. I imagined how abruptly this
+decoration would alter the appearance of Mr. John Morley; how startling
+it would be as it emerged from under the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But
+the younger men, my own friends, on whom I more particularly urged
+it, men whose names are in many cases familiar to the readers of this
+paper--Mr. Masterman's for instance, and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt,
+being young and beautiful, would do even more justice to the Kruger
+beard, and when walking down the street with it could not fail to
+attract attention. The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to
+the Rhodes hat. An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in
+Africa is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat; the
+Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing like a beard;
+we have shaved it, and it is growing again. The Kruger beard would
+represent time and the natural processes. You cannot grow a beard in a
+moment of passion.
+
+.....
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town. I went
+down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards an
+election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for the Liberal
+candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in. I sometimes lie
+awake at night and meditate upon that mystery; but it must not detain us
+now. The rather singular incident which happened to me then, and which
+some recent events have recalled to me, happened while the canvassing
+was still going on. It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine,
+settling everywhere on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out
+into a kind of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if the bushes
+and the roads were human, and had kindness like men; as if the tree were
+a good giant with one wooden leg; as if the very line of palings were a
+row of good-tempered gnomes. On one side of the white, sprawling road a
+low hill or down showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the
+other the land tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip
+hills. The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful and
+beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon a low white
+building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows, evidently not
+inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--a thing more
+like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind. Made idle by the heat,
+I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk out of my pocket, began
+drawing aimlessly on the back door--drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain,
+and finally the ideal Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials
+did not permit of any delicate rendering of his noble and national
+expansion of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for
+man, and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy, I was
+frozen to the spot with terror. The black door, which I thought no more
+of than the lid of an empty box, began slowly to open, impelled from
+within by a human hand. And President Kruger himself came out into the
+sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled the
+Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes, there was
+the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger beard which
+I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under the features
+of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I was too much
+emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone lions with him, or
+Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark shed I cannot imagine,
+but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger in
+Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in the
+neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me. Mr. Kruger
+regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye, and then addressed
+me with a strong Somersetshire accent. A curious cold shock went through
+me to hear that inappropriate voice coming out of that familiar form.
+It was as if you met a Chinaman, with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he
+began to talk broad Scotch. But the next moment, of course, I understood
+the situation. We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the
+Boer education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot against
+our island home, the terrible President had learnt not only English, but
+all the dialects at a moment's notice to win over a Lancashire merchant
+or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier. No doubt, if I asked him, this
+stout old gentleman could grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk,
+and so on, like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if
+our plain, true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so
+penetrated with culture as this.
+
+.....
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all that this
+strange old man gave me. When he asked me, dryly enough, but not without
+a certain steady civility that belongs to old-fashioned country people,
+what I wanted and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities of the
+Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became suddenly transfigured
+in the sunlight into a devil of wrath. It was some time before I could
+understand a word he said, but the one word that kept on recurring was
+the word "Kruger," and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of
+violent terms. Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want
+him to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was... and here he
+became once more obscure. The one thing that he made quite clear was
+that he wouldn't do anything for Kruger.
+
+"But you ARE Kruger," burst from my lips, in a natural explosion of
+reasonableness. "You ARE Kruger, aren't you?"
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first there would
+be a fight, and I remembered with regret that the President in early
+life had had a hobby of killing lions. But really I began to think that
+I had been mistaken, and that it was not the President after all. There
+was a confounding sincerity in the anger with which he declared that he
+was Farmer Bowles, and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually
+and parted from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me
+with a few tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of
+his identity. In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an
+illustrated paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer
+Bowles were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group of
+Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant, were
+perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed to me like
+the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll, when he
+drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze with the blue Tory
+ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his colours everywhere. It
+was evening, and the warm western light was on the grey hair and heavy
+massive features of that good old man. I knew as one knows a fact of
+sense that if Spanish and German stockbrokers had flooded his farm
+or country he would have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an
+Irishman, but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the
+Boer. I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his cross
+against the Conservative name. Then he came out again, having given his
+vote and looking more like Kruger than ever. And at the same hour on
+the same night thousands upon thousands of English Krugers gave the
+same vote. And thus Kruger was pulled down and the dark-faced men in the
+photograph reigned in his stead.
+
+
+
+
+XX. The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is
+great. All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks. At
+least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work by night
+(journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers, and such
+mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning) must often have
+stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown of battlements
+or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at daybreak to discover
+that it was only a haberdasher's shop with huge gold letters across the
+face of it.
+
+.....
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight. I sat down
+on a bench with my back to the river, happening to choose such a place
+that a huge angle and facade of building jutting out from the Strand
+sat above me like an incubus. I dare say that if I took the same seat
+to-morrow by daylight I should find the impression entirely false. In
+sunlight the thing might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness
+it seemed as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have
+I had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth. That
+pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above and
+beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb. I had an
+irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I had to fight
+it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion but an indolent
+journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black, blind
+face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge face of a sleeping
+giant; the eyes were too close together, and gave it the suggestion of a
+bestial sneer. And either by accident of this light or of some other, I
+could now read the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything that I
+should like to pull down with my hands if I could. Reared by a detected
+robber, it is framed to be the fashionable and luxurious home of
+undetected robbers. In the house of man are many mansions; but there is
+a class of men who feel normal nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or
+in Dartmoor Gaol. That big black face, which was staring at me with its
+flaming eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer; the hour had
+come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again (I had had one wild
+impulse to climb up the front of the hotel and fall in at one of the
+windows), and I tried to think, as all decent people are thinking, what
+one can really do. And all the time that oppressive wall went up in
+front of me, and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+.....
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been the defeated
+who have won. The people who were left worst at the end of the war
+were generally the people who were left best at the end of the whole
+business. For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the
+Christians. But they did not end in the decline of the Christians; they
+ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave of Moslem
+power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns of Christendom,
+that wave was broken, and never came on again. The Crusaders had saved
+Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem. The same applies to that epic of
+Republican war in the eighteenth century to which we Liberals owe our
+political creed. The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came
+back across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had lost its
+last battle; but it had gained its first object. It had cut a chasm.
+The world has never been the same since. No one after that has ever been
+able to treat the poor merely as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere stones of the
+street; but as stones that may sometimes fly. If it please God, you and
+I may see some of the stones flying again before we see death. But here
+I only remark the interesting fact that the conquered almost always
+conquer. Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds. The
+Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment; it
+deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock and jar the
+unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil; just as a pebble on
+a railway can stagger the Scotch express. It is enough for the great
+martyrs and criminals of the French revolution, that they have surprised
+for all time the secret weakness of the strong. They have awakened and
+set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever the coward in the hearts
+of kings.
+
+.....
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his experience was
+not such as has been generally supposed. If you care to hear it I will
+tell you the real story of Jack the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the
+most awful thing which Jack first felt about the giant was that he was
+not a giant. He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and
+against its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a
+figure in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man was
+treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain. The man
+came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger, and at the instant
+when he passed the possible stature of humanity Jack almost screamed.
+The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle; the more he became
+incredible the more he became solid. The less one could believe in him
+the more plainly one could see him. It was unbearable that so much of
+the sky should be occupied by one human face. His eyes, which had stood
+out like bow windows, became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that
+could contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes. Jack's
+intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism of the face that
+filled the sky; his last hope was submerged, his five wits all still
+with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of
+dead honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his
+hand. He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and
+when he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a
+cave. Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant
+on it with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the
+hilt, and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant
+felt a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great
+hand for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and
+stared at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw him
+away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were flying from
+system to system through the universe of stars. But, as the giant had
+thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike a stone, but struck soft
+mire by the side of a distant river. There he lay insensible for several
+hours; but when he awoke again his horrible conqueror was still in
+sight. He was striding away across the void and wooded plain towards
+where it ended in the sea; and by this time he was only much higher than
+any of the hills. He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really
+high mountain grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway
+train. Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic. Then
+the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big blue sea, and
+even as it did so it altered its attitude. Jack, stunned and bleeding,
+lifted himself laboriously upon one elbow to stare. The giant once more
+caught hold of his ankle, wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over
+into the great sea which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all
+things God has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+
+
+XXI. A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has always
+seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing away the veils
+from private life; but it seems to me to be always dropping diaphanous
+but blinding veils between men and men. The Yellow Press is abused for
+exposing facts which are private; I wish the Yellow Press did anything
+so valuable. It is exactly the decisive individual touches that it never
+gives; and a proof of this is that after one has met a man a million
+times in the newspapers it is always a complete shock and reversal to
+meet him in real life. The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of
+catching the first fresh fact about a man that dominates all after
+impressions. For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that
+he spoke with a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of
+sentiment; but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other criticisms
+put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out private
+personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities on the
+surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression of this kind
+which we have all felt when we met great poets or politicians, but which
+never finds its way into the newspapers. I mean the impression that
+they are much older than we thought they were. We connect great men with
+their great triumphs, which generally happened some years ago, and many
+recruits enthusiastic for the thin Napoleon of Marengo must have found
+themselves in the presence of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising
+politician confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of
+boyhood. It described how his "brave young voice" rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose: all
+this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once met
+a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+.....
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening. It
+was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set an instant
+after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened and the road
+sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents; I felt that the
+treetops that closed above me were the fixed and real things, certain as
+the level of the sea; but that the solid earth was every instant failing
+under my feet. In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in
+splashes, like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky. Around
+me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every plain or
+twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns of every earthly
+and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature of the
+forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force. For the meaning of
+woods is the combination of energy with complexity. A forest is not
+in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense with delicacy. Unique
+shapes that an artist would copy or a philosopher watch for years if he
+found them in an open plain are here mingled and confounded; but it is
+not a darkness of deformity. It is a darkness of life; a darkness of
+perfection. And I began to think how much of the highest human obscurity
+is like this, and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell
+you, for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate; it
+is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+.....
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out into
+deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the evening was
+so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a sunset all to
+itself. I went along that road according to directions that had been
+given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling beyond which the
+wood changed only faintly to a garden. It was as if the curious courtesy
+and fineness of that character I was to meet went out from him upon the
+valley; for I felt on all these things the finger of that quality which
+the old English called "faerie"; it is the quality which those can never
+understand who think of the past as merely brutal; it is an ancient
+elegance such as there is in trees. I went through the garden and saw
+an old man sitting by a table, looking smallish in his big chair. He
+was already an invalid, and his hair and beard were both white; not like
+snow, for snow is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even
+fierce; rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand, and
+I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young. He was the one
+great man of the old world whom I have met who was not a mere statue
+over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about the
+books he had written; he was far too much alive for that. He talked
+about the books he had not written. He unrolled a purple bundle of
+romances which he had never had time to sell. He asked me to write one
+of the stories for him, as he would have asked the milkman, if he had
+been talking to the milkman. It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort
+of astronomical farce. It was all about a man who was rushing up to the
+Royal Society with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying
+comet; and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities; how he lost
+a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling. That is only one
+of them; there were ten or twenty more. Another, I dimly remember, was
+a version of the fall of Parnell; the idea that a quite honest man might
+be secret from a pure love of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went
+out of that garden with a blurred sensation of the million possibilities
+of creative literature. The feeling increased as my way fell back into
+the wood; for a wood is a palace with a million corridors that cross
+each other everywhere. I really had the feeling that I had seen the
+creative quality; which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls
+the Old Man of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind
+my path; I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+
+
+XXII. The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert that the love
+of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them; and so, perhaps, it
+would, if they had it. There is a very real thing which may be called
+the love of humanity; in our time it exists almost entirely among what
+are called uneducated people; and it does not exist at all among the
+people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being is
+chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday; that is
+why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances) than any other
+part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty train
+at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them; they all
+got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the train entirely
+empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is the definite pleasure
+in the immediate proximity of one's own kind. Only this coarse, rank,
+real love of men seems to be entirely lacking in those who propose
+the love of humanity as a substitute for all other love; honourable,
+rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked the sudden
+starting of that train; all the factory girls who could not find seats
+(and they must have been the majority) relieving their feelings by
+jumping up and down. Now I have never seen any rationalistic idealists
+do this. I have never seen twenty modern philosophers crowd into one
+third-class carriage for the mere pleasure of being together. I have
+never seen twenty Mr. McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and
+down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun all
+beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches. But their fear
+is unreasonable; because trippers always prefer to trip together;
+they pack as close as they can; they have a suffocating passion of
+philanthropy.
+
+.....
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle, I have no
+hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber. Before any
+modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist (I insist
+with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased when his barber
+tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity: let him love that. If he
+is not pleased at this, I will not accept any substitute in the way of
+interest in the Congo or the future of Japan. If a man cannot love his
+barber whom he has seen, how shall he love the Japanese whom he has not
+seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about the
+weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest. It
+is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him; he is blamed
+because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist, and because,
+being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave. But the only proof of
+such things is by example; therefore I will prove the excellence of the
+conversation of barbers by a specific case. Lest any one should accuse
+me of attempting to prove it by fictitious means, I beg to say quite
+seriously that though I forget the exact language employed, the
+following conversation between me and a human (I trust), living barber
+really took place a few days ago.
+
+.....
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers, and
+lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out
+of the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get
+shaved. While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+"There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir. It
+seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone or a
+pole or a poker" (here I began for the first time to detect a sarcastic
+intonation) "or a shovel or a----"
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about the
+matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+"Or a button-hook," I said, "or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram or a
+piston-rod----"
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, "Or a curtain rod or a
+candle-stick, or a----"
+
+"Cow-catcher," I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic
+duet for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told
+me. He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+"The funny part of it is," he said, "that the thing isn't new at all.
+It's been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before. There is
+always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow. But none
+of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe myself that
+this will."
+
+"Why, as to that," I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying to
+put on my coat inside out, "I don't know how it may be in the case of
+you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you, is a trivial
+and materialistic thing, and in such things startling inventions are
+sometimes made. But what you say reminds me in some dark and dreamy
+fashion of something else. I recall it especially when you tell me,
+with such evident experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not
+really new. My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of
+making everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts
+off one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil of
+preparing a man's chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil of
+preparing something very curious to put on a man's chin. It would be
+nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody. It would be nicer
+still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ "'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+
+"Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+"In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written that a man
+shall not eat his cake and have it; and though all men talked until the
+stars were old it would still be true that a man who has lost his razor
+could not shave with it. But every now and then men jump up with the new
+something or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there is no real
+difference between being shaved and not being shaved. The difference,
+they say, is only a difference of degree; everything is evolutionary
+and relative. Shavedness is immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is
+a Potential Razor. The superstitious people of the past (they say)
+believed that a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to
+one's face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches us
+better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow where Shaving
+should be.
+
+"Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something. But a
+baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby he will know
+whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing up being shaved and
+being saved; my democratic sympathies have always led me to drop my
+'h's.' In another moment I may suggest that goats represent the
+lost because goats have long beards. This is growing altogether too
+allegorical.
+
+"Nevertheless," I added, as I paid the bill, "I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving. Have
+you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?"
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII. The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys takes so
+very much more time and trouble than anything else. Playing as children
+mean playing is the most serious thing in the world; and as soon as we
+have small duties or small sorrows we have to abandon to some extent
+so enormous and ambitious a plan of life. We have enough strength
+for politics and commerce and art and philosophy; we have not enough
+strength for play. This is a truth which every one will recognize who,
+as a child, has ever played with anything at all; any one who has played
+with bricks, any one who has played with dolls, any one who has played
+with tin soldiers. My journalistic work, which earns money, is not
+pursued with such awful persistency as that work which earned nothing.
+
+.....
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow in twelve
+volumes (it would be just like you) on "The Theory and Practice
+of European Architecture," your work may be laborious, but it is
+fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work of a child piling
+one brick on the other is serious; for the simple reason that if your
+book is a bad book no one will ever be able ultimately and entirely to
+prove to you that it is a bad book. Whereas if his balance of bricks
+is a bad balance of bricks, it will simply tumble down. And if I know
+anything of children, he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it
+up again. Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce
+you to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you could
+help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after a
+child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play as
+idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol has
+actually become more important than the human reality which it was, I
+suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: "I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending to
+be my dolly." Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had been a
+substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute for a
+doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such devotion
+takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if it were
+really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point is that
+the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist; the child
+playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: "This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his
+being short of stores." The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey's activity was due to his being short of stores. Otherwise
+he would have stood quite still while he was chased. I run after Jones
+with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries to get rid of me the
+only possible explanation is that he has a very small balance at his
+bankers. I cannot believe that any boy playing at soldiers would be as
+idiotic as this. But then any one playing at anything has to be serious.
+Whereas, as I have only too good reason to know, if you are writing an
+article you can say anything that comes into your head.
+
+.....
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's games is,
+generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure in them; it is simply
+that they have no leisure for them. It is that they cannot afford the
+expenditure of toil and time and consideration for so grand and grave a
+scheme. I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre that used to be
+called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured; only that I drew and coloured
+the figures and scenes myself. Hence I was free from the degrading
+obligation of having to pay either a penny or twopence; I only had to
+pay a shilling a sheet for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad
+water colours. The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar
+to every one; it is never more than a development of the stage which
+Skelt made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I ever
+worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work seems
+too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself to lighter
+employments; such as the biographies of great men. The play of "St.
+George and the Dragon," over which I have burnt the midnight oil (you
+must colour the thing by lamplight because that is how it will be seen),
+still lacks most conspicuously, alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace,
+and also some comprehensible and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours. But it is
+partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble. If I am
+ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have enough
+time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I shall have
+enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play in them
+without a hitch.
+
+.....
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need to learn
+could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered, it reminds us
+of the main principle of art, the principle which is in most danger
+of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact that art consists of
+limitation; the fact that art is limitation. Art does not consist in
+expanding things. Art consists of cutting things down, as I cut down
+with a pair of scissors my very ugly figures of St. George and the
+Dragon. Plato, who liked definite ideas, would like my cardboard dragon;
+for though the creature has few other artistic merits he is at least
+dragonish. The modern philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome
+to a sheet of the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the
+theatrical art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing
+through a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even
+at the Court Theatre or His Majesty's you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small theatre
+exactly is that you are looking through a small window. Has not every
+one noticed how sweet and startling any landscape looks when seen
+through an arch? This strong, square shape, this shutting off of
+everything else is not only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential
+of beauty. The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing the scale
+of events it can introduce much larger events. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica. Because it is small it
+could easily represent the Day of Judgment. Exactly in so far as it is
+limited, so far it could play easily with falling cities or with falling
+stars. Meanwhile the big theatres are obliged to be economical because
+they are big. When we have understood this fact we shall have understood
+something of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier into
+the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia. In the
+narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room for Purgatory
+and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled by the British Empire.
+Great empires are necessarily prosaic; for it is beyond human power to
+act a great poem upon so great a scale. You can only represent very big
+ideas in very small spaces. My toy theatre is as philosophical as the
+drama of Athens.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV. A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been long and pleasant,
+but--perhaps for that very reason--I feel that the time has come when I
+ought to confess the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time
+ago; but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse to reveal
+such dark episodes long after they have occurred. It has nothing to do
+with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League. That body is so offensively
+respectable that a newspaper, in describing it the other day, referred
+to my friend Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is not by the
+conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton, of the Rev. James
+Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that fine and virile old
+ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish (or rather, am driven by
+my conscience) to make this declaration. The crime was committed in
+solitude and without accomplices. Alone I did it. Let me, with the
+characteristic thirst of penitents to get the worst of the confession
+over, state it first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he has died
+of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper to whom I still
+owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant knowing that I owed
+him twopence. I carried it away under his nose, despite the fact that
+the nose was a decidedly Jewish one. I have never paid him, and it is
+highly improbable that I ever shall. How did this villainy come to occur
+in a life which has been, generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity
+necessary for fraud? The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though
+there may not be room for that.
+
+.....
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that the
+easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy. The
+most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities. The
+reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint. How, for
+instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would be called a
+"scuttle"? If he has ever seen the word scuttle it has been in the
+Jingo Press, where the "policy of scuttle" is used whenever we give
+up something to a small Power like Liberals, instead of giving up
+everything to a great Power, like Imperialists. What Englishman in
+Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans call a glove a
+"hand-shoe." Nations name their necessities by nicknames, so to
+speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish, and almost
+affectionate names, as if they were their own children! But any one can
+argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has ever got as
+far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can put a
+sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract or
+philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations. They are
+the same, for the simple reason that they all come from the things that
+were the roots of our common civilisation. From Christianity, from
+the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church, or the French Revolution.
+"Nation," "citizen," "religion," "philosophy," "authority," "the
+Republic," words like these are nearly the same in all the countries in
+which we travel. Restrain, therefore, your exuberant admiration for the
+young man who can argue with six French atheists when he first lands at
+Dieppe. Even I can do that. But very likely the same young man does not
+know the French for a shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there
+are three great exceptions. (1) In the case of countries that are not
+European at all, and have never had our civic conceptions, or the old
+Latin scholarship. I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for
+"citizenship" at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for "the
+Republic" has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of
+Germany, where, although the principle does apply to many words such
+as "nation" and "philosophy," it does not apply so generally, because
+Germany has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the
+purely German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not
+know any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+.....
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed my
+crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned were
+combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German. I
+knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which hold
+our European civilisation together--one of which is "cigar." As it was a
+hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort of beer-garden, and
+ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the lager, and paid for
+it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it, and walked away, gazing
+rapturously at the royal outline of the Taunus mountains. After about
+ten minutes, I suddenly remembered that I had not paid for the cigar. I
+went back to the place of refreshment, and put down the money. But the
+proprietor also had forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural
+things in a tone of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said
+"cigar," and he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the
+money to wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that
+my rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular
+cigar, and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture that my
+rejection was a rejection of cigars in general, not of that particular
+article. He mistook this for the ordinary impatience of common men, and
+rushed forward, his hands filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing
+them upon me. In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the
+more cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars were
+brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment. I tried in
+vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact that I had already
+had the cigar. I imitated the action of a citizen smoking, knocking off
+and throwing away a cigar. The watchful proprietor only thought I was
+rehearsing (as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar he
+was going to give me. At last I retired baffled: he would not take the
+money and leave the cigars alone. So that this restaurant-keeper (in
+whose face a love of money shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and
+firmly refused to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and
+I took that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months. I
+hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth very gently to
+that unhappy man.
+
+.....
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud, and the
+moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded upon abstractions. The
+idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed by physical motions at
+all, because it is an abstract idea. And civilisation obviously would be
+nothing without debt. So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific
+sociology (which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation is
+material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves how many of
+the things that make up our Society, the Law, or the Stocks and Shares,
+or the National Debt, you would be able to convey with your face and
+your ten fingers by grinning and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+
+
+XXV. A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there lies
+a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue, but of
+eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present writer
+to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws and
+customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day. It is not
+Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some sympathy with the
+Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath, and that for three reasons;
+first, that religion is an intrinsically sympathetic thing; second, that
+I cannot conceive any religion worth calling a religion without a fixed
+and material observance; and third, that the particular observance of
+sitting still and doing no work is one that suits my temperament down to
+the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it does not
+let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him up when it has forced
+him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism does not forbid us to ask a man
+in Battersea to come and talk in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his
+getting there. I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with
+joys, with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style. I can
+understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows. But I cannot
+imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences. Let the good
+Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent, according to his
+feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah cannot see anything
+particularly dignified in his servant being misled by the time-table,
+finding that the old Mecca express is not running, missing his
+connection at Bagdad, or having to wait three hours in a small side
+station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak thread
+of train-service. Now if this had been the authority of real English
+religion, I should have submitted to it at once. If I believed that
+the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram because he was at that
+moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer, I should think all telegrams
+unimportant in comparison. If I could believe that railway porters when
+relieved from their duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of
+worship, I should say that all lectures and everything else ought to
+give way to such a consideration. I should not complain if the national
+faith forbade me to make any appointments of labour or self-expression
+on the Sabbath. But, as it is, it only tells me that I may very probably
+keep the Sabbath by not keeping the appointment.
+
+.....
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there was
+only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could even get
+within several hours or several miles of the time or place. I therefore
+went to the telephone, which is one of my favourite toys, and down which
+I have shouted many valuable, but prematurely arrested, monologues upon
+art and morals. I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered
+that one could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days, to the
+advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument, in fewer
+words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram, I ordered a
+taxi-cab to take me to the railway station. I have not a word to say in
+general either against telephones or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two
+of the purest and most poetic of the creations of modern scientific
+civilisation. Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down. The result
+of this was that when I arrived at King's Cross my only train was gone;
+there was a Sabbath calm in the station, a calm in the eyes of the
+porters, and in my breast, if calm at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my breast on first
+making the discovery; and it was turned to blinding horror when I learnt
+that I could not even send a telegram to the organisers of the meeting.
+To leave my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating; to
+leave them without any intimation was simply low. I reasoned with the
+official. I said: "Do you really mean to say that if my brother were
+dying and my mother in this place, I could not communicate with her?" He
+was a man of literal and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was
+dying. I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle. What would happen
+if England were invaded, or if I alone knew how to turn aside a comet or
+an earthquake. He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible
+spirit, but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element of the
+outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang up ungovernable,
+and I decided that I would not be a cad merely because some of my remote
+ancestors had been Calvinists. I would keep my appointment if I lost all
+my money and all my wits. I went out into the quiet London street, where
+my quiet London cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty
+morning. I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the
+London driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire. And he did.
+
+.....
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful weather, even in a
+motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started, but
+he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate sense of
+adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--if we ever did. I
+was by no means so delicate; I bought a varied selection of pork-pies
+at a little shop that was open (why was that shop open?--it is all a
+mystery), and ate them as we went along. The beginning was sombre and
+irritating. I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a
+baby; with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness in its
+squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable bustle of
+democracy; but the poor parts of North London... well, perhaps I saw
+them wrongly under that ashen morning and on that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke the
+retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring. We
+were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses, when
+the grey showed golden patches and a good light began to glitter on
+everything. The cab went quicker and quicker. The open land whirled
+wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of being battled with
+and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums. Rather the feeling
+increased, because of the great difficulty of space and time. The faster
+went the car, the fiercer and thicker I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me. The
+tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows; the very trees
+seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving it by a hair's
+breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw a beech-tree by the
+white road stand up little and defiant. It grew bigger and bigger with
+blinding rapidity. It charged me like a tilting knight, seemed to hack
+at my head, and pass by. Sometimes when we went round a curve of road,
+the effect was yet more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill
+swung round to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a
+blazing fact; and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant. We
+do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek the nobler sort
+of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+.....
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided, with
+evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw a veil.
+When I came back home I was called to the telephone, and a meek voice
+expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab, and even said
+something about any reasonable payment. "Whom can I pay for my own
+superb experience? What is the usual charge for seeing the clouds
+shattered by the sun? What is the market price of a tree blue on the
+sky-line and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for that
+windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden. Let me pay you
+for..." Here it was, I think, that we were cut off.
+
+
+
+
+XXVI. The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England as Napoleon
+charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive, because away to
+the last grey line of the sea there was only the look of galloping
+squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose. The sea came on like
+cavalry, and when it touched the shore it opened the blazing eyes and
+deafening tongues of the artillery. I saw the worst assault at night on
+a seaside parade where the sea smote on the doors of England with the
+hammers of earthquake, and a white smoke went up into the black heavens.
+There one could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave. But the
+horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness. It lifts its load
+of water laboriously: in that style at once slow and slippery in which
+a Titan might lift a load of rock and then let it slip at last to be
+shattered into shock of dust. In front of me that night the waves were
+not like water: they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose
+first as if it did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to
+attack the stars. For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a
+tower; then it went a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that
+might some day fall. When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew
+up.
+
+.....
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across the land
+one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can lean up against
+like a wall. One expected anything to be blown out of shape at any
+instant; the lamp-post to be snapped like a green stalk, the tree to be
+whirled away like a straw. I myself should certainly have been blown out
+of shape if I had possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked
+along the edge of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea
+and could not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised to find that
+as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled with the ceaseless
+cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino or place of
+entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing against the cosmic
+uproar. I do not know what band it was. Judging from the boisterous
+British Imperialism of most of the airs it played, I should think it was
+a German band. But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came
+quite close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as "Tommy Atkins" and "You Can Depend on Young Australia," and
+many others of which I do not know the words, but I should think they
+would be "John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack," or that fine though
+unwritten poem, "Wait till the Bull Dog gets a bite of you." Now, I
+for one detest Imperialism, but I have a great deal of sympathy with
+Jingoism. And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken and
+innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature that it made, if I
+may so put it, two tunes in my mind. It is so obvious and so jolly to
+be optimistic about England, especially when you are an optimist--and
+an Englishman. But through all that glorious brass came the voice of the
+invasion, the undertone of that awful sea. I did a foolish thing. As I
+could not express my meaning in an article, I tried to express it in
+a poem--a bad one. You can call it what you like. It might be called
+"Doubt," or "Brighton." It might be called "The Patriot," or yet again
+"The German Band." I would call it "The Two Voices," but that title has
+been taken for a grossly inferior poem. This is how it began--
+
+ "They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ "(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)"
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there is an English
+country that the Imperialists have never found. The British Empire
+may annex what it likes, it will never annex England. It has not even
+discovered the island, let alone conquered it. I took up the two tunes
+again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ "I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ "(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)"
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England. It
+is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely and at
+random--
+
+ "I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ "(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)"
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute; and as for
+the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+
+
+XXVII. Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the
+keeping off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at a tree,
+practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of knife-throwing
+by which men murder each other in Stevenson's romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something about
+their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that reminded me,
+I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy. They asked what the
+knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it, what my address was, trade,
+religion, opinions on the Japanese war, name of favourite cat, and so
+on. They also said I was damaging the tree; which was, I am sorry to
+say, not true, because I could not hit it. The peculiar philosophical
+importance, however, of the incident was this. After some half-hour's
+animated conversation, the exhibition of an envelope, an unfinished
+poem, which was read with great care, and, I trust, with some profit,
+and one or two other subtle detective strokes, the elder of the two
+knights became convinced that I really was what I professed to be, that
+I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS (this was the real
+stroke; they were shaken with a terror common to all tyrants), that
+I lived in a particular place as stated, and that I was stopping
+with particular people in Yorkshire, who happened to be wealthy and
+well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary at last
+that he ended up by representing himself as a reader of my work. And
+when that was said, everything was settled. They acquitted me and let me
+pass.
+
+"But," I said, "what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue of that
+Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like knight-errants. You,
+the higher humanitarians, are not deceived by the seeming stillness
+of the green things, a stillness like the stillness of the cataract, a
+headlong and crashing silence. You know that a tree is but a creature
+tied to the ground by one leg. You will not let assassins with their
+Swedish daggers shed the green blood of such a being. But if so, why am
+I not in custody; where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your
+persons, my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have
+just convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank of
+Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether I have
+been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none the less damaged
+even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it was wounded by a
+gentleman connected with the Liberal press. Wounds in the bark do not
+more rapidly close up because they are inflicted by people who are
+stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley. That tree, the ruin of its former
+self, the wreck of what was once a giant of the forest, now splintered
+and laid low by the brute superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy,
+constable, cannot be wiped out even by stopping for several months more
+with some wealthy person. It is incredible that you have no legal claim
+to arrest even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?"
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood, for
+the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came. It is
+very possible, of course, that they were fairies. In that case the
+somewhat illogical character of their view of crime, law, and personal
+responsibility would find a bright and elfish explanation; perhaps if I
+had lingered in the glade till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny
+policemen dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass. But taking the
+bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen, I find myself in
+a certain difficulty. I was certainly accused of something which was
+either an offence or was not. I was let off because I proved I was a
+guest at a big house. The inference seems painfully clear; either it is
+not a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood, or else
+it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man. Suppose a very poor
+person, poorer even than a journalist, a navvy or unskilled labourer,
+tramping in search of work, often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps,
+failing in his rent. Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green
+gaiety of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees and
+could give no description of a dwelling-place except that he had been
+fired out of the last. As I walked home through a cloudy and purple
+twilight I wondered how he would have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical; there
+is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil in the fact
+that people always brag about their vices; it is when they begin to brag
+about their virtues that they become insufferable. But there is this to
+be said, that illogicality in your constitution or your legal methods
+may become very dangerous if there happens to be some great national
+vice or national temptation which many take advantage of the chaos.
+Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours; a temperate
+man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the Chiltern
+Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally to keep down
+some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is. Obviously this kind
+of illogicality does not matter very much, for the simple reason that
+there is no great temptation to take advantage of it. Men retiring from
+Parliament do not have any furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills.
+But if there were a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable
+politicians taking leave of public life would desire to do this (if,
+for instance, there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on
+saying that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day and
+taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality would
+matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence. It is only
+the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry. And
+snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil, that it is
+rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts and houses. But it is
+our great English vice; to be watched more fiercely than small-pox. If a
+man wished to hear the worst and wickedest thing in England summed up in
+casual English words, he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald
+quarrelling. He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working
+man, when he wishes to praise any one, calls him "a gentleman." It never
+occurs to him that he might as well call him "a marquis," or "a privy
+councillor"--that he is simply naming a rank or class, not a phrase
+for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a shameful admiration,
+must, and, I think, does, constantly come in and distort and poison our
+police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest, is
+increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people, without
+this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+
+
+XXVIII. The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his first
+feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town or village;
+when he looks again he sees that this comparative absence of the
+picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain, precipitous frontage
+of the houses standing up hard and flat out of the street like the
+cardboard houses in a pantomime--a hard angularity allied perhaps to
+the harshness of French logic. When he looks a third time he sees quite
+simply that it is all because the houses have no front gardens. The
+vague English spirit loves to have the entrance to its house softened by
+bushes and broken by steps. It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges
+half in the house and half out of it; a green room in a double sense.
+The Frenchman desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting
+places, for the street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+.....
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's front
+garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains. The
+street is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street. It is his
+dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his British Museum, for
+the statues and monuments in French streets are not, as with us, of the
+worst, but of the best, art of the country, and they are often actually
+as historical as the Pyramids. The street again is the Frenchman's
+Parliament, for France has never taken its Chamber of Deputies so
+seriously as we take our House of Commons, and the quibbles of mere
+elected nonentities in an official room seem feeble to a people whose
+fathers have heard the voice of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open
+heaven, or Victor Hugo shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the
+second Republic. And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in
+the street so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so
+that the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated gentleman
+embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship. But in Paris a lamp-post
+is a tragic thing. For we think of tyrants hanged on it, and of an
+end of the world. There is, or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris
+called LA LANTERNE. How funny it would be if there were a Progressive
+paper in England called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the
+Frenchman is the man in the street; that he can dine in the street, and
+die in the street. And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going
+to bed in the street, I shall say that he is still true to the genius
+of his civilisation. All that is good and all that is evil in France is
+alike connected with this open-air element. French democracy and French
+indecency are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a cafe, a public-house is a private house.
+
+.....
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through the
+mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort. First of all, it
+lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany, and boundaries are
+the most beautiful things in the world. To love anything is to love its
+boundaries; thus children will always play on the edge of anything.
+They build castles on the edge of the sea, and can only be restrained by
+public proclamation and private violence from walking on the edge of the
+grass. For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come to the
+beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very
+margin of Germany, and although there were many German touches in
+the place--German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical
+barmaids dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet
+the fixed French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks
+of something else. All day long and all night long troops of dusty,
+swarthy, scornful little soldiers went plodding through the streets with
+an air of stubborn disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised
+you, but French soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even
+more than you. It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation
+which has made it good at war and science and other things in which what
+is necessary is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the
+civilians alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of
+head which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call a
+bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call it
+a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen have
+been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+.....
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art of the
+French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of the most typical
+and powerful of the public monuments of France. From the cafe table at
+which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town on which hangs the high
+and flat-faced citadel, pierced with many windows, and warmed in the
+evening light. On the steep hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself
+as large as a hill. It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic
+impression. No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common
+statue; no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises, shaking the
+world. The face of the lion has something of the bold conventionality
+of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left like a shapeless cloud of
+tempest, as if it might literally be said of him that God had clothed
+his neck with thunder. Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and
+in some sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken by the Germans
+through all the terrible year, but only laid down its arms at last at
+the command of its own Government. But the spirit of it has been in
+this land from the beginning--the spirit of something defiant and almost
+defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern
+battle of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the
+last sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at
+bay, the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+
+
+XXIX. Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris and
+its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure; but
+it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of roses
+is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others, but
+quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion, they
+are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality. For
+the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort which
+charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts; they are
+torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life with the
+same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence. The enemies
+of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay which does
+not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which the
+Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself, it
+made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is the
+same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth. The new
+realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain. Its
+indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an everlasting revolution.
+It has none of the things which make good Frenchmen love Paris; it has
+only the things which make unspeakable Englishmen love it. It has
+the part which is cosmopolitan--and narrows; not the part which is
+Parisian--and universal. You can find there (as commonly happens in
+modern centres) the worst things of all nations--the DAILY MAIL from
+England, the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of
+France, and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and, above all, no
+French tradition of fighting for an idea. Though all the boulevards look
+like Parisian boulevards, though all the shops look like Parisian shops,
+you cannot look at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the
+full distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters like
+Clemenceau and Deroulede.
+
+.....
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I
+began to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again;
+and I had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of
+the city. In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little
+man with a black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy
+whiskers, like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And
+about the time that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic
+grew thinner, and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were
+saying. Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy
+to follow, because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long
+words because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: "It must that we have the Progress."
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying: "It must also
+that we have the Consolidation International."
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened with
+some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it. One of the Belgians
+was a Little Belgian, as we speak of a Little Englander. The other was a
+Belgian Imperialist, for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be
+altogether a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire. Being
+a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being an empire only
+means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers was the Imperialist,
+and he was saying: "The science, behold there the new guide of
+humanity."
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: "It does not suffice to have
+progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment of the
+human justice."
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard
+in England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on the march.
+All the world goes to make itself instructed. It must that the more
+instructed enlighten the less instructed. Eh, well then, the European
+must impose upon the savage the science and the light. Also (apparently)
+he must impose himself on the savage while he is about it. To-day one
+travelled quickly. The science had changed all. For our fathers,
+they were religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing; all the
+lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves. Soon there would not
+be but the great Empires and confederations, guided by the science,
+always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with the
+sentiment for human justice had "la parole" off him in a flash. Without
+doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments, the
+ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself towards
+Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation, what were
+they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the barbarism?
+The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had passed all
+that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all human souls with
+the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was become a spirit; the
+wings pushed....
+
+.....
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it was
+almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent
+complete alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven
+knows where. I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on
+without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city. On one side
+of the road was one of those small, thin woods which are common in all
+countries, but of which, by a coincidence, the mystical painters of
+Flanders were very fond. The night was closing in with cloudy purple
+and grey; there was one ribbon of silver, the last rag of the sunset.
+Through the wood went one little path, and somehow it suggested that it
+might lead to some sign of life--there was no other sign of life on the
+horizon. I went along it, and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight
+of all those tiny trees. There is something subtle and bewildering about
+that sort of frail and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems
+like a bodily barrier; but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a
+spiritual barrier. It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could
+not pass a phantom. When I had well lost the last gleam of the high
+road a curious and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly
+felt something much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of
+humanity: inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--any men;
+and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe. And at last, when I
+had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw a light too near the earth
+to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door of which
+was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse, who seemed to prefer to
+eat with his head inside the sitting-room. I got past him, and found
+he was being fed by a young man who was sitting down and drinking beer
+inside, and who saluted me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange
+tongue. The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I traced
+at length as belonging to about six small children. Their father was
+still working in the fields, but their mother rose when I entered. She
+smiled, but she and all the rest spoke some rude language, Flamand, I
+suppose; so that we had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched
+me beer, and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men hitting each
+other with swords, it pleased them very much. Then I gave a Belgian
+penny to each child, for as I said on chance in French, "It must be that
+we have the economic equality." But they had never heard of economic
+equality, while all Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality,
+though it is true that they haven't got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying, one that
+Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that Humanity was now
+pushing the wings of the purely intellectual. But for me Humanity was
+hooked on to an accidental picture. I thought of a low and lonely house
+in the flats, behind a veil or film of slight trees, a man breaking the
+ground as men have broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse
+champing his food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+
+
+XXX. The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that in a few hours
+I should be in England, my eye fell upon one of the details of Gothic
+carving of which Flanders is full. I do not know whether the thing is
+old, though it was certainly knocked about and indecipherable, but at
+least it was certainly in the style and tradition of the early Middle
+Ages. It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say twisting
+themselves) to certain primary employments. Some seemed to be
+sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think, were reaping; others were
+energetically pouring something into something else. This is entirely
+characteristic of the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth
+century, perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history. The great
+Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes doing nothing. Splendid
+and philosophic as their composure is there is always about it something
+that marks the master of many slaves. But if there was one thing
+the early mediaevals liked it was representing people doing
+something--hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes, or
+making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. "Quicquid agunt homines,
+votum, timor, ira voluptas." (I quote from memory.) The Middle Ages
+is full of that spirit in all its monuments and manuscripts. Chaucer
+retains it in his jolly insistence on everybody's type of trade and
+toil. It was the earliest and youngest resurrection of Europe, the time
+when social order was strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive;
+the time when religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been
+exasperated. For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic
+carving is different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often
+reining their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever at
+that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving seems actually
+a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone. Sometimes one cannot help feeling
+that the groups actually move and mix, and the whole front of a great
+cathedral has the hum of a huge hive.
+
+.....
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity of which I
+could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads had very curious
+heads, and it seemed to me that they had their mouths open. Whether or
+no this really meant anything or was an accident of nascent art I do not
+know; but in the course of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that
+singing was connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes. I was
+still thinking about this small problem when I walked along the pier
+at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering a measured shout as they
+laboured, and I remembered that sailors still sing in chorus while they
+work, and even sing different songs according to what part of their work
+they are doing. And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was
+over, the sight of men working in the English fields reminded me
+again that there are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural
+routines. And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be quite
+unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry. How did people
+come to chant rude poems while pulling certain ropes or gathering
+certain fruit, and why did nobody do anything of the kind while
+producing any of the modern things? Why is a modern newspaper never
+printed by people singing in chorus? Why do shopmen seldom, if ever,
+sing?
+
+.....
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all the
+separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there not songs
+for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank? As the train
+from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens, I tried to write a few
+songs suitable for commercial gentlemen. Thus, the work of bank clerks
+when casting up columns might begin with a thundering chorus in praise
+of Simple Addition.
+
+"Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er. Hear the
+Stars of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.' Though the creeds and
+realms are reeling, though the sophists roar, Though we weep and pawn
+our watches, Two and Two are Four."
+
+"There's a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager's a crank and
+the Secretary drank, and the
+
+ Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+ Stand close: there is a run
+ On the Bank.
+ Of our ship, our royal one, let the ringing legend run,
+ That she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank."
+
+.....
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine who
+actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions in rhyme to him
+for use among his colleagues. But he was not very hopeful about the
+matter. It was not (he assured me) that he underrated the verses, or in
+any sense lamented their lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an
+indefinable something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks. And I think
+he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious. I may observe
+here that I think there must be some mistake in the calculations of the
+Socialists. They put down all our distress, not to a moral tone, but
+to the chaos of private enterprise. Now, banks are private; but
+post-offices are Socialistic: therefore I naturally expected that the
+post-office would fall into the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of
+my surprise when the lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing)
+dismissed the idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done.
+She seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the verses
+themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse of the
+Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+ "O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+ "Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully certain it
+seemed that the most important and typical modern things could not be
+done with a chorus. One could not, for instance, be a great financier
+and sing; because the essence of being a great financier is that you
+keep quiet. You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being a public man is
+that you do nearly everything in private. Nobody would imagine a chorus
+of money-lenders. Every one knows the story of the solicitors' corps of
+volunteers who, when the Colonel on the battlefield cried "Charge!" all
+said simultaneously, "Six-and-eightpence." Men can sing while charging
+in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at the end of my
+reflections I had really got no further than the sub-conscious feeling
+of my friend the bank-clerk--that there is something spiritually
+suffocating about our life; not about our laws merely, but about our
+life. Bank-clerks are without songs, not because they are poor, but
+because they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards I
+passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which was shaken
+with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own tongue. THEY were
+singing anyhow; and I had for an instant a fancy I had often had before:
+that with us the super-human is the only place where you can find the
+human. Human nature is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+
+
+XXXI. The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday, a
+friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded with
+half-packed luggage.
+
+"You seem to be off on your travels," he said. "Where are you going?"
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, "To Battersea."
+
+"The wit of your remark," he said, "wholly escapes me."
+
+"I am going to Battersea," I repeated, "to Battersea via Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea."
+
+"I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you," said my friend, with an air
+of intellectual comparison, "that this is Battersea?"
+
+"It is quite unnecessary," I said, "and it is spiritually untrue. I
+cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or any England. I
+cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair: because a cloud of sleep
+and custom has come across my eyes. The only way to get back to them is
+to go somewhere else; and that is the real object of travel and the real
+pleasure of holidays. Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see
+France? Do you suppose that I go to Germany in order to see Germany?
+I shall enjoy them both; but it is not them that I am seeking. I am
+seeking Battersea. The whole object of travel is not to set foot on
+foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a
+foreign land. Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and
+heavy, and that if you utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your
+head. I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical. It is
+not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go to England is to
+go away from it."
+
+But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back to England, I
+was startled to find that I had told the exact truth. England did break
+on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old. To land at Dover is
+the right way to approach England (most things that are hackneyed are
+right), for then you see first the full, soft gardens of Kent, which
+are, perhaps, an exaggeration, but still a typical exaggeration, of the
+rich rusticity of England. As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with
+whom I had fallen into conversation felt the same freshness, though for
+another cause. She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm in that
+simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans, who are the most
+idealistic people in the whole world. Their only danger is that the
+idealist can easily become the idolator. And the American has become
+so idealistic that he even idealises money. But (to quote a very able
+writer of American short stories) that is another story.
+
+"I have never been in England before," said the American lady, "yet
+it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it for a long
+time."
+
+"So you have," I said; "you have been away for three hundred years."
+
+"What a lot of ivy you have," she said. "It covers the churches and
+it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it grow like
+that."
+
+"I am interested to hear it," I replied, "for I am making a little list
+of all the things that are really better in England. Even a month on
+the Continent, combined with intelligence, will teach you that there are
+many things that are better abroad. All the things that the DAILY MAIL
+calls English are better abroad. But there are things entirely English
+and entirely good. Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front
+gardens, and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom
+cabs, and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman or a
+German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a light bursts
+upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of Mrs. Gallup and
+the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the matter of a capital
+letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept everything; bacon did write
+Shakespeare."
+
+"I cannot look at anything but the ivy," she said, "it looks so
+comfortable."
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many weeks
+an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour in which
+he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved because it
+represented something in the nature of permanent public opinion of
+England, above the ebb and flow of the parties. Now Mr. Balfour is a
+perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his own point of view, thinks
+long and seriously about the public needs, and he is, moreover, a man
+of entirely exceptionable intellectual power. But alas, in spite of
+all this, when I had read that speech I thought with a heavy heart that
+there was one more thing that I had to add to the list of the specially
+English things, such as kippers and cricket; I had to add the specially
+English kind of humbug. In France things are attacked and defended for
+what they are. The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended because
+it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican. But here is the
+ablest of English politicians consoling everybody by telling them that
+the House of Lords is not really the House of Lords, but something quite
+different, that the foolish accidental peers whom he meets every night
+are in some mysterious way experts upon the psychology of the democracy;
+that if you want to know what the very poor want you must ask the very
+rich, and that if you want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it
+at Hatfield. If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were
+a logical French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an
+English politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing
+that all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the
+strong English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts. In a
+cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly all the
+Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery. He knows, and
+(as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament knows the very
+names of the peers who have purchased their peerages. But the glamour
+of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself and reassuring others, is
+too strong for this original knowledge; at last it fades from him,
+and he sincerely and earnestly calls on Englishmen to join with him in
+admiring an august and public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten
+that the Senate really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+"Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick," said the American lady, "it
+seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical thing in
+England."
+
+"It is very beautiful," I said, "and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England, wrote one of
+his rare poems about the beauty of ivy. Yes, by all means let us admire
+the ivy, so deep, so warm, so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque
+tenderness. Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree."
+
+
+
+
+XXXII. The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was a
+train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it. And
+while I was running along the train (amid general admiration) I noticed
+that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of carriages marked
+"Engaged." On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages was pasted the
+little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows were big bland
+men staring out in the conscious pride of possession. Their bodies
+seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more than usual
+placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor reasons that
+it was the opposite direction and the wrong day. It could hardly be
+the King. It could hardly be the French President. For, though these
+distinguished persons naturally like to be private for three hours, they
+are at least public for three minutes. A crowd can gather to see
+them step into the train; and there was no crowd here, or any police
+ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train than a
+bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious and delicate than
+the King's own suite? Who were these that were larger than a mob, yet
+more mysterious than a monarch? Was it possible that instead of our
+Royal House visiting the Tsar, he was really visiting us? Or does the
+House of Lords have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge. Then
+the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them got out the
+distinguished holders of the engaged seats. They were all dressed
+decorously in one colour; they had neatly cropped hair; and they were
+chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our eyes
+met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt, a
+native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going. His mouth
+twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said: "I don't
+s'pose they're goin' on an 'oliday at the seaside with little spades
+and pails." I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein of
+literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down to
+Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge, and
+had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when we
+had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea. I
+knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: "Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it."
+And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of the
+English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense of
+pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+.....
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out. For every
+practical purpose of a political state, for every practical purpose of a
+tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted. At a tea-party it
+is equally obvious that he that exalteth himself must be abased, if
+possible without bodily violence. Now people talk of democracy as
+being coarse and turbulent: it is a self-evident error in mere history.
+Aristocracy is the thing that is always coarse and turbulent: for it
+means appealing to the self-confident people. Democracy means appealing
+to the different people. Democracy means getting those people to vote
+who would never have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian
+ethics) the precise people who ought to govern are the people who have
+not the cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my
+friend in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument
+about crime and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything: as if
+one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible. This mere belief in
+bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental; it is simply snobbish. For
+if comfort gives men virtue, the comfortable classes ought to be
+virtuous--which is absurd. Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and
+more watery type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who
+says, with a sort of splutter, "Flog the brutes!" or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity "what he would do" with a certain man--always
+supposing the man's hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak and
+unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental humanitarian
+and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears in the modern babel.
+Yet you very rarely meet either of them in a train. You never meet
+anyone else in a controversy. The man you meet in a train is like this
+man that I met: he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually
+doubtful. So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could be
+"done" to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it would be if
+nothing need be done. But something must be done. "I s'pose we 'ave to
+do it." In short, he is simply a sane man, and of a sane man there is
+only one safe definition. He is a man who can have tragedy in his heart
+and comedy in his head.
+
+.....
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem of the
+proper treatment of criminals is that both parties discuss the matter
+without any direct human feeling. The denouncers of wrong are as cold as
+the organisers of wrong. Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging arranged in our
+modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its scientific paraphernalia,
+the photographing, the medical attendance, prove that it goes to the
+last foul limit of the boot and rack. The cat is simply the rack without
+any of its intellectual reasons. Holding this view strongly, I open the
+ordinary humanitarian books or papers and I find a phrase like this,
+"The lash is a relic of barbarism." So is the plough. So is the fishing
+net. So is the horn or the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an
+inexpressibly feeble phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of
+barbarism! It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow, and
+we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion. There is
+nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism. Man is a
+relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is
+simply a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called
+a relic of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate
+when everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was
+detailed exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous
+sixteenth century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years
+before the Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this
+day. This is, first and last, the frightful thing we must remember.
+In so far as we grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense
+whatever) naturally moving away from torture. We may be moving towards
+torture. We must know what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous
+secret cruelty which has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields. They have
+taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they have done with
+them.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIII. The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not think
+so; he did not think so because he himself was even more modern than the
+railway station. He did not think so because he was himself feverish,
+irritable, and snorting like an engine. He could not value the ancient
+silence of the railway station.
+
+"In a railway station," he said, "you are in a hurry, and therefore,
+miserable"; but you need not be either unless you are as modern as
+Ruskin. The true philosopher does not think of coming just in time for
+his train except as a bet or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be late
+for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway station
+much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral. It has many of the
+characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building; it has vast arches,
+void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all, it has recurrence or
+ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration of water and fire the two
+prime elements of all human ceremonial. Lastly, a station resembles the
+old religions rather than the new religions in this point, that people
+go there. In connection with this it should also be remembered that all
+popular places, all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain
+the best routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or
+machines used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people. Ruskin
+could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the Underground
+Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations. The great palaces
+of pleasure which the rich build in London all have brazen and vulgar
+names. Their names are either snobbish, like the Hotel Cecil, or
+(worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole. But when I go in a
+third-class carriage from the nearest circle station to Battersea to the
+nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names of the stations are
+one long litany of solemn and saintly memories. Leaving Victoria I come
+to a park belonging especially to St. James the Apostle; thence I go to
+Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes to the awful Abbey; Charing
+Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom; the next station is called a
+Temple; and Blackfriars remembers the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million feet of the
+crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear down old things by sheer
+walking. But the educated kick them down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty railway station,
+where I have no business of any kind. I have extracted a vast number of
+chocolates from automatic machines; I have obtained cigarettes, toffee,
+scent, and other things that I dislike by the same machinery; I have
+weighed myself, with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential antiquity and
+permanence, is still in possession of my mind. I wander up to the
+bookstall, and my faith survives even the wild spectacle of modern
+literature and journalism. Even in the crudest and most clamorous
+aspects of the newspaper world I still prefer the popular to the proud
+and fastidious. If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and
+taking in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL. Even
+mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so irritating as mere
+meanness preached in a big and solemn way. People buy the DAILY MAIL,
+but they do not believe in it. They do believe in the TIMES, and
+(apparently) they do not buy it. But the more the output of paper upon
+the modern world is actually studied, the more it will be found to be
+in all its essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur and historic
+allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library. The novelty is all
+superficial; the tradition is all interior and profound. The DAILY MAIL
+has new editions, but never a new idea. Everything in a newspaper that
+is not the old human love of altar or fatherland is the old human love
+of gossip. Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church struck
+by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem to realise that
+this old barbaric history is the same as new democratic journalism. It
+is not that the savage chronicle has disappeared. It is merely that the
+savage chronicle now appears every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me. On
+the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, "Get On or Get
+Out." The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden revolt and
+reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty; it reminded
+me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly idiotic thing,
+a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing anybody in
+anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful person
+in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being the most
+successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men. When I saw those
+words the silence and sanctity of the railway station were for the
+moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate something
+anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate, means the most
+disgusting individualism of this individualistic world. In the fury of
+my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book, thereby ensuring
+that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it prepared to find
+some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be an exception to
+the general silence and sanctity of the railway station. I was prepared
+to find something in the book that was as infamous as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding to the
+furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover. After reading it
+carefully I could not discover whether I was really to get on or to
+get out; but I had a vague feeling that I should prefer to get out.
+A considerable part of the book, particularly towards the end, was
+concerned with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not discover
+in any way how the details of his life given here were supposed to help
+a person aiming at success. One anecdote described how Napoleon always
+wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose the moral is: always wipe
+your pen on your knee-breeches, and you will win the battle of Wagram.
+Another story told that he let loose a gazelle among the ladies of his
+Court. Clearly the brutal practical inference is--loose a gazelle among
+the ladies of your acquaintance, and you will be Emperor of the French.
+Get on with a gazelle or get out. The book entirely reconciled me to
+the soft twilight of the station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a
+symbolic division which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are
+vertebrates; they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans; their
+hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside. But the
+softness is there; everything in this twilight temple is soft.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIV. The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element of
+truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned, such as meeting
+President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab. What I have now to relate
+really happened; yet there was no element in it of practical politics or
+of personal danger. It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with
+another man. But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible
+thing that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long ago
+that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue, only of its
+main questions and answers; but there is one sentence in it for which I
+can answer absolutely and word for word. It was a sentence so awful that
+I could not forget it if I would. It was the last sentence spoken; and
+it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school. An art
+school is different from almost all other schools or colleges in this
+respect: that, being of new and crude creation and of lax discipline,
+it presents a specially strong contrast between the industrious and the
+idle. People at an art school either do an atrocious amount of work or
+do no work at all. I belonged, along with other charming people, to the
+latter class; and this threw me often into the society of men who were
+very different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied; I was
+engaged about that time in discovering, to my own extreme and lasting
+astonishment, that I was not an atheist. But there were others also at
+loose ends who were engaged in discovering what Carlyle called (I think
+with needless delicacy) the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are two
+very curious things which the critic of human life may observe. The
+first is the fact that there is one real difference between men and
+women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk in
+threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do) three young
+cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk together every
+day you generally find that one of the three cads and idiots is (for
+some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot. In these small
+groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is almost always one
+man who seems to have condescended to his company; one man who, while he
+can talk a foul triviality with his fellows, can also talk politics with
+a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he would
+talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours of the night
+he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even in speculation. He
+was a man with a long, ironical face, and close and red hair; he was
+by class a gentleman, and could walk like one, but preferred, for some
+reason, to walk like a groom carrying two pails. He looked like a sort
+of Super-jockey; as if some archangel had gone on the Turf. And I shall
+never forget the half-hour in which he and I argued about real things
+for the first and the last time.
+
+.....
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school was a part ran
+a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think, than those that lead up to
+St. Paul's Cathedral. On a black wintry evening he and I were wandering
+on these cold heights, which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the
+stars. The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning and
+blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning something in the
+grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went whirling past us like
+a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark. Above us also it was gloom;
+but if one stared long enough at that upper darkness, one saw vertical
+stripes of grey in the black and then became conscious of the colossal
+facade of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+.....
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said it,
+I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it I knew
+it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and full that
+I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+"I am becoming orthodox," I said, "because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than
+a crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches piracy
+disinterestedly and without an adequate salary. A Free Lover is worse
+than a profligate. For a profligate is serious and reckless even in his
+shortest love; while a Free Lover is cautious and irresponsible even in
+his longest devotion. I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous."
+
+"You mean dangerous to morality," he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. "I expect you are right. But why do you care about
+morality?"
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had a
+trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light of the
+bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights. His long chin and
+high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath; so that
+he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit. I had an
+unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness; and even as I paused a
+burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+"Aren't those sparks splendid?" I said.
+
+"Yes," he replied.
+
+"That is all that I ask you to admit," said I. "Give me those few red
+specks and I will deduce Christian morality. Once I thought like you,
+that one's pleasure in a flying spark was a thing that could come and
+go with that spark. Once I thought that the delight was as free as the
+fire. Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space. But now
+I know that the red star is only on the apex of an invisible pyramid of
+virtues. That red fire is only the flower on a stalk of living habits,
+which you cannot see. Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you'
+for a bun are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you were
+humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now enjoy any
+fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them being red because
+you were told about the blood of the martyrs; you only like them
+being bright because brightness is a glory. That flame flowered out of
+virtues, and it will fade with virtues. Seduce a woman, and that spark
+will be less bright. Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be
+really bad, and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper."
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both. He
+only said, "But shall I not find in evil a life of its own? Granted that
+for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out: will not the
+expanding pleasure of ruin..."
+
+"Do you see that fire?" I asked. "If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are."
+
+"Perhaps," he said, in his tired, fair way. "Only what you call evil I
+call good."
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted the steps
+swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find my hat in the
+low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his voice again, but
+the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled: then I heard the voice of
+one of the vilest of his associates saying, "Nobody can possibly know."
+And then I heard those two or three words which I remember in every
+syllable and cannot forget. I heard the Diabolist say, "I tell you I
+have done everything else. If I do that I shan't know the difference
+between right and wrong." I rushed out without daring to pause; and as
+I passed the fire I did not know whether it was hell or the furious love
+of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think, that he
+committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure, not with
+tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went; but I have never
+known, or even dared to think, what was that place at which he stopped
+and refrained.
+
+
+
+
+XXXV. A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is really
+quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven or Fairyland or
+whatever I called it, was immediately behind my own back, and that this
+was why I could never manage to see it, however often I twisted and
+turned to take it by surprise. I had a notion of a man perpetually
+spinning round on one foot like a teetotum in the effort to find that
+world behind his back which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is
+why the world goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look
+over its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it, yet
+without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive of
+that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is in
+some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned. Always
+the Kingdom of Heaven is "At Hand"; and Looking-glass Land is only
+through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished if
+the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in which all
+the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I turned one
+corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp; I should not
+be surprised if I turned a third corner and found myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day at
+something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street and found
+myself in England.
+
+.....
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation. In the
+darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there is one thing
+that should always be remembered about the very nature of our country.
+It may be shortly stated by saying that England is not such a fool as
+it looks. The types of England, the externals of England, always
+misrepresent the country. England is an oligarchical country, and it
+prefers that its oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners. Our
+countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher places of
+the national life. It may be a strange sight to see the blind leading
+the blind; but England provides a stranger. England shows us the blind
+leading the people who can see. And this again is an under-statement
+of the case. For the English political aristocrats not only speak worse
+than many other people; they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance
+of statesmen is like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected
+thing. If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you
+will be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things. It
+makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently intimate
+with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life in Parliament
+to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself; he
+votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one. A man ought to
+vote with the whole of himself as he worships or gets married. A man
+ought to vote with his head and heart, his soul and stomach, his eye for
+faces and his ear for music; also (when sufficiently provoked) with his
+hands and feet. If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of
+it should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs, they
+should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross. But as it is,
+the difficulty with English democracy at all elections is that it is
+something less than itself. The question is not so much whether only a
+minority of the electorate votes. The point is that only a minority of
+the voter votes.
+
+.....
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak I found
+this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle class which I
+had imagined had almost vanished from the world. It seemed to me that
+all the main representatives of the middle class had gone off in one
+direction or in the other; they had either set out in pursuit of the
+Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit of the Simple Life. I cannot
+say which I dislike more myself; the people in question are welcome to
+have either of them, or, as is more likely, to have both, in hideous
+alternations of disease and cure. But all the prominent men who plainly
+represent the middle class have adopted either the single eye-glass of
+Mr Chamberlain or the single eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads. It was
+serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it committed the
+solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that this old earnest
+political England had practically disappeared. And as I say, I took one
+turn out of Fleet Street and I found a room full of it.
+
+.....
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The
+club was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne'er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all the
+hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth century.
+The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet there was
+not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I often have in
+listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion. The Toryism of this
+club was like the Toryism of Johnson, a Toryism that could use humour
+and appealed to humanity. The democracy of this club was like the
+democracy of Wilkes, a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight
+duels; a democracy that can face things out and endure slander; the
+democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers. Each
+man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as well as he could
+from sheer fury against the other man. This is the greatest of our
+modern descents, that nowadays a man does not become more rhetorical
+as he becomes more sincere. An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got
+really and honestly furious, looked for big words with which to crush
+his adversary. The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech the
+rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening to which nobody
+listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate, or one of the harder
+kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere, he becomes Cockney. "The
+destiny of the Empire," or "The destiny of humanity," do well enough
+for mere ornamental preliminaries, but when the man becomes angry and
+honest, then it is a snarl, "Where do we come in?" or "It's your money
+they want."
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different; they
+were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet quivering with
+passion, and tried to destroy his opponent, not with sniggering, but
+actually with eloquence. I was arguing with them about Home Rule; at
+the end I told them why the English aristocracy really disliked an Irish
+Parliament; because it would be like their club.
+
+.....
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I saw
+pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London was rising
+against something that London had hardly heard of. Then I suddenly
+saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world is an immense and
+tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things. And I saw that
+across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin, sheet of ice, of
+wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I heard
+it crack.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVI. A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read it through
+very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come to the conclusion
+that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read it through very
+carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet. The image and the
+idea of it clung to me through a great part of my boyhood; I may have
+dreamt it before I could talk; or told it to myself before I could read;
+or read it before I could remember. On the whole, however, I am certain
+that I did not read it, for children have very clear memories about
+things like that; and of the books which I was really fond I can still
+remember, not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline to
+the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+.....
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages of the
+atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me, for the sake of
+argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch restaurants
+in the City where men take their food so fast that it has none of the
+quality of food, and take their half-hour's vacation so fast that it has
+none of the qualities of leisure; to hurry through one's leisure is the
+most unbusiness-like of actions. They all wore tall shiny hats as if
+they could not lose an instant even to hang them on a peg, and they all
+had one eye a little off, hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In
+short, they were the slaves of the modern bondage, you could hear their
+fetters clanking. Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest
+chain ever tied to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man who
+almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue. He was like all
+the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly opposite to them in all
+manner. He wore a high shiny hat and a long frock coat, but he wore them
+as such solemn things were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if
+it were a mitre, and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high
+priest. He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed (such was
+his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat for doing so, and
+to apologise to the peg for making use of it. When he had sat down on
+a wooden chair with the air of one considering its feelings and given a
+sort of slight stoop or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an
+altar, I could not help some comment springing to my lips. For the man
+was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man, and yet he treated
+everything with a care that almost amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said, "This
+furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat it much too
+carelessly."
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed as his was
+fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him ordinary as he entered,
+save for his strange, cautious manner; but if the other people had seen
+him then they would have screamed and emptied the room. They did not see
+him, and they went on making a clatter with their forks, and a murmur
+with their conversation. But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+
+"Did you mean anything particular by that remark?" he asked at last, and
+the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+"Nothing whatever," I answered. "One does not mean anything here; it
+spoils people's digestions."
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief; and
+yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+"I thought perhaps," he said in a low voice, "that another of them had
+gone wrong."
+
+"If you mean another digestion gone wrong," I said, "I never heard of
+one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire, and the other
+organs are in an equally bad way."
+
+"No, I mean another street gone wrong," and he said heavily and quietly,
+"but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you, I think I shall have
+to tell you the story. I do so with all the less responsibility, because
+I know you won't believe it. For forty years of my life I invariably
+left my office, which is in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the
+afternoon, taking with me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the
+left hand. For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the
+side office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side, took
+the first turning to the left and the third to the right, from where I
+bought an evening paper, followed the road on the right-hand side round
+two obtuse angles, and came out just outside a Metropolitan station,
+where I took a train home. For forty years two months and four days I
+fulfilled this course by accumulated habit: it was not a long street
+that I traversed, and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I went out
+in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand and my bag in the
+left, and I began to notice that walking along the familiar street tired
+me somewhat more than usual; and when I turned it I was convinced that I
+had turned down the wrong one. For now the street shot up quite a steep
+slant, such as one only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this
+part there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street; the
+name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were the same; the
+lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective was the same; only
+it was tilted upwards like a lid. Forgetting any trouble about
+breathlessness or fatigue I ran furiously forward, and reached the
+second of my accustomed turnings, which ought to bring me almost within
+sight of the station. And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the
+pavement. For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a
+steep staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles round
+that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill. And this was
+a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole street had lifted itself
+like a single wave, and yet every speck and detail of it was the same,
+and I saw in the high distance, as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked
+out in pink letters the name over my paper shop.
+
+"I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a part
+of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses. I had,
+I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long iron bridge in
+empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up the iron trap of a
+coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty space and the stairs.
+
+"When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was in
+shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing so
+perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world. And the
+stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought to be endured
+by the eyes of men.
+
+"'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of
+devils.'
+
+"After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+
+"'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+Station.'
+
+"'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now,
+however, it is going to heaven.'
+
+"'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+
+"'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody
+does. But you can't neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time, you
+can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the State
+so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no horse,
+no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and yet have
+less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have worked this
+street to death, and yet you have never remembered its existence. If
+you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would have hung this
+street with garlands and given it the name of a god. Then it would have
+gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired of your tireless
+insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to heaven. Have you
+never sat on a bucking horse?'
+
+"I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me to
+be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven. But
+in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this is all nonsense.
+Streets go to the place they have to go. A street must always go to its
+end.'
+
+"'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+
+"'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied, in
+reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always gone to
+Oldgate Station; day after...'
+
+"I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury of the road in
+revolt.
+
+"'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks of
+you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive? Day after day,
+year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station....' Since then I have
+respected the things called inanimate."
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in the restaurant
+withdrew.
+
+
+
+
+XXXVII. The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can get
+for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun, the moon,
+the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles. You can get
+them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing, which I am
+not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which the lowest price is a
+penny halfpenny. But the general principle will be at once apparent.
+In the street behind me, for instance, you can now get a ride on an
+electric tram for a halfpenny. To be on an electric tram is to be on
+a flying castle in a fairy tale. You can get quite a large number of
+brightly coloured sweets for a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of
+reading this article for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and
+irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array of valuable
+things you can get at a halfpenny each you should do as I was doing last
+night. I was gluing my nose against the glass of a very small and
+dimly lit toy shop in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets
+of Battersea. But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made. Those toys of
+the poor were like the children who buy them; they were all dirty; but
+they were all bright. For my part, I think brightness more important
+than cleanliness; since the first is of the soul, and the second of the
+body. You must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion in
+the modern world.
+
+.....
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red Noah's
+arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance. That lit
+shop-window became like the brilliantly lit stage when one is watching
+some highly coloured comedy. I forgot the grey houses and the grimy
+people behind me as one forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds
+at a theatre. It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were
+small, not because they were toys, but because they were objects far
+away. The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater
+omnibus, passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to
+Bayswater. The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was
+blue with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming and
+only man is black. The red Noah's ark was really the enormous ship
+of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea, red in the first
+morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction, such
+brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the face
+of one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles or
+moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the slowness of
+their growth and the suddenness of their termination. The return to real
+thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man. Very often indeed
+(in my case) it is bumping into a man. But in any case the awakening is
+always emphatic and, generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in
+this case, I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop; but
+in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final. There
+was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told me that I had
+strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I had already done some odd
+thing. I felt as if I had worked a miracle or committed a sin. It was as
+if I had at any rate, stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop and
+tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old and
+broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half his face,
+hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial. Yet though
+he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering in his
+eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling asleep in a not
+unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers, but when I put down the
+money he did not at first seem to see it; then he blinked at it feebly,
+and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+"No, no," he said vaguely. "I never have. I never have. We are rather
+old-fashioned here."
+
+"Not taking money," I replied, "seems to me more like an uncommonly new
+fashion than an old one."
+
+"I never have," said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose; "I've
+always given presents. I'm too old to stop."
+
+"Good heavens!" I said. "What can you mean? Why, you might be Father
+Christmas."
+
+"I am Father Christmas," he said apologetically, and blew his nose
+again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside. At
+any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street; I
+might have strayed into some new and sunless world. But something had
+cut the chords of common sense, and I could not feel even surprise
+except sleepily. Something made me say, "You look ill, Father
+Christmas."
+
+"I am dying," he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+"All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it. They seem
+to object to me on such curious and inconsistent sort of grounds,
+these scientific men, and these innovators. They say that I give people
+superstitions and make them too visionary; they say I give people
+sausages and make them too coarse. They say my heavenly parts are too
+heavenly; they say my earthly parts are too earthly; I don't know what
+they want, I'm sure. How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly
+things too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly? I don't
+understand. But I understand one thing well enough. These modern people
+are living and I am dead."
+
+"You may be dead," I replied. "You ought to know. But as for what they
+are doing, do not call it living."
+
+.....
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected to be
+unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few seconds when, in the
+utter stillness, I distinctly heard a very rapid step coming nearer and
+nearer along the street. The next moment a figure flung itself into the
+shop and stood framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted
+back as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat. He
+had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor; he
+had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the shop
+and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and uttered the
+exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+"Good lord!" he cried out; "it can't be you! It isn't you! I came to ask
+where your grave was."
+
+"I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens," said the old gentleman, with a feeble
+smile; "but I'm dying," he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+"But, dash it all, you were dying in my time," said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; "and you don't look a day older."
+
+"I've felt like this for a long time," said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door into the
+darkness.
+
+"Dick," he roared at the top of his voice; "he's still alive."
+
+.....
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne. He carried
+his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face had even a look
+of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted by his eyes, which were
+literally as humble as a dog's. His sword made a great clatter, as if
+the shop were too small for it.
+
+"Indeed," said Sir Richard Steele, "'tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley and his
+Christmas Day."
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker. It seemed to be
+filled with newcomers.
+
+"It hath ever been understood," said a burly man, who carried his head
+humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think he was Ben
+Jonson--"It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King
+James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were
+fallen sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most
+surely was no lustier when I knew him than now."
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in
+some mixed Norman French, "But I saw the man dying."
+
+"I have felt like this a long time," said Father Christmas, in his
+feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+"Since when?" he asked. "Since you were born?"
+
+"Yes," said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. "I have been
+always dying."
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to
+rise.
+
+"I understand it now," he cried, "you will never die."
+
+
+
+
+XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection
+for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that
+we almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing
+in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the
+Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem,
+heard the bell which told them they were not too late. But we took as
+much pleasure in the people, in the little boys with open, flat
+Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks, making them look
+like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained
+tightly off the temples, and mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous,
+exactly reproduced the late mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little
+tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one
+corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got
+into the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and
+their vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and
+the official came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place
+we should get to if we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic
+people, and he asked us (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness
+and French rationalism) where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question
+was whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great
+deal of international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the
+Flemish and we in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would
+take us to a place which I have never seen written down, but which when
+spoken sounded like the word "Waterloo" pronounced by an intoxicated
+patriot; I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from
+boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field of
+Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was in quite a
+different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads, with one cottage at the
+corner, a perspective of tall trees like Hobbema's "Avenue," and beyond
+only the infinite flat chess-board of the little fields. It was the
+scene of peace and prosperity; but I must confess that my friend's first
+action was to ask the man when there would be another train back to
+Mechlin. The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one
+hour. We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+.....
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and, finding
+the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief. The officer on
+this train could speak nothing but Flemish, but he understood the name
+Mechlin, and indicated that when we came to Mechlin Station he would put
+us down, which, after the right interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling. And
+if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you, why should
+it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails? But on this
+soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line of the Netherlands
+or the fact that we were returning home without any adventure, I really
+did think things a trifle dreary. As soon as we could creep under the
+shelter of a street we turned into a little cafe, kept by one woman. She
+was incredibly old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee
+and what was called "cognac fine." "Cognac fine" were the only two
+French words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At
+least, the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I, got up and went
+out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we could at once stroll back
+to our hotel by the station. I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless
+mood, and listening to the unremitting rain.
+
+.....
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured and
+frantic.
+
+"Get up!" he cried, waving his hands wildly. "Get up! We're in the wrong
+town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles, twenty miles
+off--God knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp."
+
+"What!" I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+"Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face for an instant
+behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I was feeling depressed because
+we were in the right town. But if we are in the wrong town--why, we
+have our adventure after all! If we are in the wrong town, we are in the
+right place."
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat more
+grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre, which seemed to
+consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks, who sold lemonade.
+
+"This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!" I cried
+enthusiastically. "We must do something, something sacramental and
+commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be a bore to
+build a temple. Let us write a poem."
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope and one of
+those pencils that turn bright violet in water. There was plenty of
+water about, and the violet ran down the paper, symbolising the rich
+purple of that romantic hour. I began, choosing the form of an old
+French ballade; it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ "Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ "Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----"
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it expressed a more
+wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean. But he only turned up his
+coat collar, and I felt that for him the muse had folded her wings. I
+rewrote--
+
+ "Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre."
+
+"The next line," I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+"The next line," he said somewhat harshly, "will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we have to change
+twice. I dare say I should think this jolly romantic but for the
+weather. Adventure is the champagne of life, but I prefer my champagne
+and my adventures dry. Here is the station."
+
+.....
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred cloud of
+rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky, that even made
+one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said to my friend in a low
+voice--"I have found out everything. We have come to the wrong star."
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: "That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world. When I
+thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it was wrong,
+I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness, tires us
+because it tells us we fit into this world. The true happiness is that
+we don't fit. We come from somewhere else. We have lost our way."
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had
+impressed or only fatigued him I could not tell. "This," I added, "is
+suggested in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ "'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'"
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple we
+heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with "No bally HORS
+D'OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once."
+
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+
+
+XXXIX. The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants which
+happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909. And since I tend,
+like all who are growing old, to re-enter the remote past as a paradise
+or playground, I disinter a memory which may serve to stand among those
+memories of small but strange incidents with which I have sometimes
+filled this column. The thing has really some of the dark qualities of
+a detective-story; though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could
+hardly unravel it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the
+actors, doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth
+century, and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that
+Dr. Johnson was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over
+gravy, snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt. I
+had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions as
+I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been. I requested
+that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I might touch
+all of them but one, and then go back and touch that. Failing this, I
+felt that the least they could do was to have twenty-five cups of tea
+stationed at regular intervals along the course, each held by a Mrs.
+Thrale in full costume. My best constructive suggestion was the most
+harshly rejected of all. In front of me in the procession walked the
+great Bishop Berkeley, the man who turned the tables on the early
+materialists by maintaining that matter itself possibly does not exist.
+Dr. Johnson, you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as
+Berkeley's, and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, "I refute him so!"
+Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars, but
+behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot. But I
+must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities; we old men grow
+too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my assumed
+character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place at night
+in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date), that the
+garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms, and especially
+with early Celtic saints smoking pipes, and with elegant Renaissance
+gentlemen talking Cockney. Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless
+to say, that I got lost. I wandered away into some dim corner of that
+dim shrubbery, where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent
+ropes, and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man, who
+stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle. When I thought
+he would pass me, he stopped before my face, and said, "Dr. Johnson, I
+think. I am Paley."
+
+"Sir," I said, "you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you will
+perform a yet higher and harder function."
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but, turning
+his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms and winding
+mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight and laughing
+men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am (you will say)
+naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient. I was, moreover,
+unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark and took a man for a
+spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise as a modern gentleman in
+a masquerade dress. No; far from it. That spectral person was my first
+introduction to a special incident which has never been explained and
+which still lays its finger on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled as one
+does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life and a great
+deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger than life; he ought
+to have been a little man in a night-cap, with a cat under one arm and
+a spaniel under the other. As it was, he was a magnificent person, and
+looked more like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog. When I
+came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful improvement upon
+himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog and cat and would not
+be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting to be kicked in the
+interests of philosophy. In short, I met all my old friends but one.
+Where was Paley? I had been mystically moved by the man's presence; I
+was moved more by his absence. At last I saw advancing towards us
+across the twilight garden a little man with a large book and a bright
+attractive face. When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear
+voice, "I'm Paley." The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was
+ill and had sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four or five
+colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual friend with
+Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke. Cowper, I think
+it was, who introduced me to a friend of his, a fresh face, square
+and sturdy, framed in a white wig. "This," he explained, "is my friend
+So-and-So. He's Paley." I looked round at all the faces by this time
+fixed and familiar; I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the
+third Paley as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this one
+particular cleric should be so varying and elusive. It was singular
+that Paley, alone among men, should swell and shrink and alter like a
+phantom, while all else remained solid. But the thing was explicable;
+two men had been ill and there was an end of it; only I went again
+the next night, and a clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair
+bounded up to me, and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition of
+the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural explanations
+have broken down and no supernatural explanation has been established.
+My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I found myself once more in
+the colour and clatter of the pageant, and I was all the more pleased
+because I met an old school-fellow, and we mutually recognised each
+other under our heavy clothes and hoary wigs. We talked about all those
+great things for which literature is too small and only life large
+enough; red-hot memories and those gigantic details which make up the
+characters of men. I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of
+and those he had kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked
+at last how he came into the pageant.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was...."
+
+"No, by thunder!" I said, "nor does anyone."
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream. I
+scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure which
+fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased. What
+could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among the faithful
+found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity or the
+unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being could support
+being Paley for one night and live till morning? Or was it that the
+gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British public thirsting
+to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time? Or is there some
+ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret society of Deists still
+assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery; and that
+for two reasons. First, the story is so true that I have had to put a
+lie into it. Every word of this narrative is veracious, except the one
+word Paley. And second, because I have got to go into the next room and
+dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G. K. Chesterton
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Tremendous Trifles, by G.K. Chesterton
+
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+Title: Tremendous Trifles
+
+Author: G.K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8092]
+[This file was first posted on June 13, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
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+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, TREMENDOUS TRIFLES ***
+
+
+
+
+TREMENDOUS TRIFLES
+
+by
+
+G. K. Chesterton
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Preface
+
+These fleeting sketches are all republished by kind permission
+of the Editor of the DAILY NEWS, in which paper they appeared.
+They amount to no more than a sort of sporadic diary--a diary
+recording one day in twenty which happened to stick in the fancy--
+the only kind of diary the author has ever been able to keep.
+Even that diary he could only keep by keeping it in public,
+for bread and cheese. But trivial as are the topics they
+are not utterly without a connecting thread of motive. As the
+reader's eye strays, with hearty relief, from these pages,
+it probably alights on something, a bed-post or a lamp-post,
+a window blind or a wall. It is a thousand to one that the
+reader is looking at something that he has never seen: that is,
+never realised. He could not write an essay on such a post or
+wall: he does not know what the post or wall mean. He could
+not even write the synopsis of an essay; as "The Bed-Post; Its
+Significance--Security Essential to Idea of Sleep--Night Felt
+as Infinite--Need of Monumental Architecture," and so on.
+He could not sketch in outline his theoretic attitude towards
+window-blinds, even in the form of a summary. "The Window-Blind--
+Its Analogy to the Curtain and Veil--Is Modesty Natural?
+--Worship of and Avoidance of the Sun, etc., etc." None of us
+think enough of these things on which the eye rests. But don't
+let us let the eye rest. Why should the eye be so lazy? Let us
+exercise the eye until it learns to see startling facts that run
+across the landscape as plain as a painted fence. Let us be
+ocular athletes. Let us learn to write essays on a stray cat or
+a coloured cloud. I have attempted some such thing in what
+follows; but anyone else may do it better, if anyone else will
+only try.
+
+
+Contents Chapter
+ I Tremendous Trifles
+ II A Piece of Chalk
+ III The Secret of a Train
+ IV The Perfect Game
+ V The Extraordinary Cabman
+ VI An Accident
+ VII The Advantages of Having One Leg
+ VIII The End of the World
+ IX In the Place de la Bastille
+ X On Lying in Bed
+ XI The Twelve Men
+ XII The Wind and the Trees
+ XIII The Dickensian
+ XIV In Topsy-Turvy Land
+ XV What I Found in My Pocket
+ XVI The Dragon's Grandmother
+ XVII The Red Angel
+ XVIII The Tower
+ XIX How I Met the President
+ XX The Giant
+ XXI The Great Man
+ XXII The Orthodox Barber
+ XXIII The Toy Theatre
+ XXIV A Tragedy of Twopence
+ XXV A Cab Ride Across Country
+ XXVI The Two Noises
+ XXVII Some Policemen and a Moral
+ XXVIII The Lion
+ XXIX Humanity: An Interlude
+ XXX The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+ XXXI The Riddle of the Ivy
+ XXXII The Travellers in State
+ XXXIII The Prehistoric Railway Station
+ XXXIV The Diabolist
+ XXXV A Glimpse of My Country
+ XXXVI A Somewhat Improbable Story
+ XXXVII The Shop of Ghosts
+XXXVIII The Ballade of a Strange Town
+ XXXIX The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+
+I
+
+Tremendous Trifles
+
+Once upon a time there were two little boys who lived chiefly
+in the front garden, because their villa was a model one.
+The front garden was about the same size as the dinner table;
+it consisted of four strips of gravel, a square of turf with some
+mysterious pieces of cork standing up in the middle and one flower
+bed with a row of red daisies. One morning while they were at play
+in these romantic grounds, a passing individual, probably the milkman,
+leaned over the railing and engaged them in philosophical conversation.
+The boys, whom we will call Paul and Peter, were at least sharply
+interested in his remarks. For the milkman (who was, I need say,
+a fairy) did his duty in that state of life by offering them
+in the regulation manner anything that they chose to ask for.
+And Paul closed with the offer with a business-like abruptness,
+explaining that he had long wished to be a giant that he might stride
+across continents and oceans and visit Niagara or the Himalayas
+in an afternoon dinner stroll. The milkman producing a wand from
+his breast pocket, waved it in a hurried and perfunctory manner;
+and in an instant the model villa with its front garden was like a
+tiny doll's house at Paul's colossal feet. He went striding away
+with his head above the clouds to visit Niagara and the Himalayas.
+But when he came to the Himalayas, he found they were quite small
+and silly-looking, like the little cork rockery in the garden; and when
+he found Niagara it was no bigger than the tap turned on in the bathroom.
+He wandered round the world for several minutes trying to find
+something really large and finding everything small, till in sheer
+boredom he lay down on four or five prairies and fell asleep.
+Unfortunately his head was just outside the hut of an intellectual
+backwoodsman who came out of it at that moment with an axe in one hand
+and a book of Neo-Catholic Philosophy in the other. The man looked
+at the book and then at the giant, and then at the book again.
+And in the book it said, "It can be maintained that the evil
+of pride consists in being out of proportion to the universe."
+So the backwoodsman put down his book, took his axe and,
+working eight hours a day for about a week, cut the giant's head off;
+and there was an end of him.
+
+Such is the severe yet salutary history of Paul. But Peter, oddly
+enough, made exactly the opposite request; he said he had long
+wished to be a pigmy about half an inch high; and of course he
+immediately became one. When the transformation was over he found
+himself in the midst of an immense plain, covered with a tall green
+jungle and above which, at intervals, rose strange trees each with
+a head like the sun in symbolic pictures, with gigantic rays of
+silver and a huge heart of gold. Toward the middle of this prairie
+stood up a mountain of such romantic and impossible shape, yet of
+such stony height and dominance, that it looked like some incident
+of the end of the world. And far away on the faint horizon he
+could see the line of another forest, taller and yet more mystical,
+of a terrible crimson colour, like a forest on fire for ever. He
+set out on his adventures across that coloured plain; and he has
+not come to the end of it yet.
+
+Such is the story of Peter and Paul, which contains all the highest
+qualities of a modern fairy tale, including that of being wholly unfit
+for children; and indeed the motive with which I have introduced
+it is not childish, but rather full of subtlety and reaction.
+It is in fact the almost desperate motive of excusing or palliating
+the pages that follow. Peter and Paul are the two primary influences
+upon European literature to-day; and I may be permitted to put my own
+preference in its most favourable shape, even if I can only do it
+by what little girls call telling a story.
+
+I need scarcely say that I am the pigmy. The only excuse for the scraps
+that follow is that they show what can be achieved with a commonplace
+existence and the sacred spectacles of exaggeration. The other
+great literary theory, that which is roughly represented in England
+by Mr. Rudyard Kipling, is that we moderns are to regain the primal zest
+by sprawling all over the world growing used to travel and geographical
+variety, being at home everywhere, that is being at home nowhere.
+Let it be granted that a man in a frock coat is a heartrending sight;
+and the two alternative methods still remain. Mr. Kipling's school
+advises us to go to Central Africa in order to find a man without
+a frock coat. The school to which I belong suggests that we should
+stare steadily at the man until we see the man inside the frock coat.
+If we stare at him long enough he may even be moved to take off his coat
+to us; and that is a far greater compliment than his taking off his hat.
+In other words, we may, by fixing our attention almost fiercely
+on the facts actually before us, force them to turn into adventures;
+force them to give up their meaning and fulfil their mysterious purpose.
+The purpose of the Kipling literature is to show how many extraordinary
+things a man may see if he is active and strides from continent
+to continent like the giant in my tale. But the object of my school
+is to show how many extraordinary things even a lazy and ordinary man
+may see if he can spur himself to the single activity of seeing.
+For this purpose I have taken the laziest person of my acquaintance, that
+is myself; and made an idle diary of such odd things as I have fallen over
+by accident, in walking in a very limited area at a very indolent pace.
+If anyone says that these are very small affairs talked about in very
+big language, I can only gracefully compliment him upon seeing the joke.
+If anyone says that I am making mountains out of molehills, I confess
+with pride that it is so. I can imagine no more successful and productive
+form of manufacture than that of making mountains out of molehills.
+But I would add this not unimportant fact, that molehills are mountains;
+one has only to become a pigmy like Peter to discover that.
+
+I have my doubts about all this real value in mountaineering,
+in getting to the top of everything and overlooking everything.
+Satan was the most celebrated of Alpine guides, when he took
+Jesus to the top of an exceeding high mountain and showed
+him all the kingdoms of the earth. But the joy of Satan
+in standing on a peak is not a joy in largeness, but a joy in
+beholding smallness, in the fact that all men look like insects
+at his feet. It is from the valley that things look large;
+it is from the level that things look high; I am a child
+of the level and have no need of that celebrated Alpine guide.
+I will lift up my eyes to the hills, from whence cometh my help;
+but I will not lift up my carcass to the hills, unless it is
+absolutely necessary. Everything is in an attitude of mind;
+and at this moment I am in a comfortable attitude.
+I will sit still and let the marvels and the adventures settle
+on me like flies. There are plenty of them, I assure you.
+The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only
+for want of wonder.
+
+
+II
+
+A Piece of Chalk
+
+I remember one splendid morning, all blue and silver, in the summer
+holidays when I reluctantly tore myself away from the task of doing
+nothing in particular, and put on a hat of some sort and picked up
+a walking-stick, and put six very bright-coloured chalks in my pocket.
+I then went into the kitchen (which, along with the rest of the house,
+belonged to a very square and sensible old woman in a Sussex village),
+and asked the owner and occupant of the kitchen if she had any
+brown paper. She had a great deal; in fact, she had too much; and she
+mistook the purpose and the rationale of the existence of brown paper.
+She seemed to have an idea that if a person wanted brown paper he must
+be wanting to tie up parcels; which was the last thing I wanted to do;
+indeed, it is a thing which I have found to be beyond my mental capacity.
+Hence she dwelt very much on the varying qualities of toughness and
+endurance in the material. I explained to her that I only wanted to draw
+pictures on it, and that I did not want them to endure in the least;
+and that from my point of view, therefore, it was a question, not of
+tough consistency, but of responsive surface, a thing comparatively
+irrelevant in a parcel. When she understood that I wanted to draw
+she offered to overwhelm me with note-paper, apparently supposing
+that I did my notes and correspondence on old brown paper wrappers
+from motives of economy.
+
+I then tried to explain the rather delicate logical shade, that I
+not only liked brown paper, but liked the quality of brownness
+in paper, just as I liked the quality of brownness in October woods,
+or in beer, or in the peat-streams of the North. Brown paper
+represents the primal twilight of the first toil of creation,
+and with a bright-coloured chalk or two you can pick out points
+of fire in it, sparks of gold, and blood-red, and sea-green,
+like the first fierce stars that sprang out of divine darkness.
+All this I said (in an off-hand way) to the old woman; and I put the brown
+paper in my pocket along with the chalks, and possibly other things.
+I suppose every one must have reflected how primeval and how poetical
+are the things that one carries in one's pocket; the pocket-knife,
+for instance, the type of all human tools, the infant of the sword.
+Once I planned to write a book of poems entirely about the things
+in my pockets. But I found it would be too long; and the age
+of the great epics is past.
+
+. . . . .
+
+With my stick and my knife, my chalks and my brown paper,
+I went out on to the great downs. I crawled across those colossal
+contours that express the best quality of England, because they
+are at the same time soft and strong. The smoothness of them
+has the same meaning as the smoothness of great cart-horses,
+or the smoothness of the beech-tree; it declares in the teeth
+of our timid and cruel theories that the mighty are merciful.
+As my eye swept the landscape, the landscape was as kindly
+as any of its cottages, but for power it was like an earthquake.
+The villages in the immense valley were safe, one could see,
+for centuries; yet the lifting of the whole land was like
+the lifting of one enormous wave to wash them all away.
+
+I crossed one swell of living turf after another, looking for a place
+to sit down and draw. Do not, for heaven's sake, imagine I was going
+to sketch from Nature. I was going to draw devils and seraphim,
+and blind old gods that men worshipped before the dawn of right,
+and saints in robes of angry crimson, and seas of strange green,
+and all the sacred or monstrous symbols that look so well in bright
+colours on brown paper. They are much better worth drawing than Nature;
+also they are much easier to draw. When a cow came slouching
+by in the field next to me, a mere artist might have drawn it;
+but I always get wrong in the hind legs of quadrupeds. So I drew
+the soul of the cow; which I saw there plainly walking before me
+in the sunlight; and the soul was all purple and silver, and had
+seven horns and the mystery that belongs to all the beasts. But
+though I could not with a crayon get the best out of the landscape,
+it does not follow that the landscape was not getting the best out
+of me. And this, I think, is the mistake that people make about the
+old poets who lived before Wordsworth, and were supposed not to care
+very much about Nature because they did not describe it much.
+
+They preferred writing about great men to writing about great hills;
+but they sat on the great hills to write it. They gave out much
+less about Nature, but they drank in, perhaps, much more. They
+painted the white robes of their holy virgins with the blinding
+snow, at which they had stared all day. They blazoned the shields
+of their paladins with the purple and gold of many heraldic sunsets.
+The greenness of a thousand green leaves clustered into the live
+green figure of Robin Hood. The blueness of a score of forgotten
+skies became the blue robes of the Virgin. The inspiration went
+in like sunbeams and came out like Apollo.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But as I sat scrawling these silly figures on the brown paper, it began
+to dawn on me, to my great disgust, that I had left one chalk, and that a
+most exquisite and essential chalk, behind. I searched all my pockets,
+but I could not find any white chalk. Now, those who are acquainted
+with all the philosophy (nay, religion) which is typified in the art
+of drawing on brown paper, know that white is positive and essential.
+I cannot avoid remarking here upon a moral significance. One of the
+wise and awful truths which this brown-paper art reveals, is this,
+that white is a colour. It is not a mere absence of colour; it is
+a shining and affirmative thing, as fierce as red, as definite as
+black. When, so to speak, your pencil grows red-hot, it draws roses;
+when it grows white-hot, it draws stars. And one of the two or three
+defiant verities of the best religious morality, of real Christianity,
+for example, is exactly this same thing; the chief assertion of
+religious morality is that white is a colour. Virtue is not the absence
+of vices or the avoidance of moral dangers; virtue is a vivid and
+separate thing, like pain or a particular smell. Mercy does not mean
+not being cruel or sparing people revenge or punishment; it means a
+plain and positive thing like the sun, which one has either seen or
+not seen.
+
+Chastity does not mean abstention from sexual wrong; it means
+something flaming, like Joan of Arc. In a word, God paints in
+many colours; but He never paints so gorgeously, I had almost
+said so gaudily, as when He paints in white. In a sense our age
+has realised this fact, and expressed it in our sullen costume.
+For if it were really true that white was a blank and colourless
+thing, negative and non-committal, then white would be used instead
+of black and grey for the funeral dress of this pessimistic period.
+We should see city gentlemen in frock coats of spotless silver
+linen, with top hats as white as wonderful arum lilies. Which is
+not the case.
+
+Meanwhile, I could not find my chalk.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I sat on the hill in a sort of despair. There was no town
+nearer than Chichester at which it was even remotely probable
+that there would be such a thing as an artist's colourman.
+And yet, without white, my absurd little pictures would be as
+pointless as the world would be if there were no good people in it.
+I stared stupidly round, racking my brain for expedients.
+Then I suddenly stood up and roared with laughter, again and again,
+so that the cows stared at me and called a committee. Imagine a
+man in the Sahara regretting that he had no sand for his hour-glass.
+Imagine a gentleman in mid-ocean wishing that he had brought some
+salt water with him for his chemical experiments. I was sitting on
+an immense warehouse of white chalk. The landscape was made
+entirely out of white chalk. White chalk was piled more miles until
+it met the sky. I stooped and broke a piece off the rock I sat on;
+it did not mark so well as the shop chalks do; but it gave the
+effect. And I stood there in a trance of pleasure, realising that
+this Southern England is not only a grand peninsula, and a tradition
+and a civilisation; it is something even more admirable. It is a
+piece of chalk.
+
+
+III
+
+The Secret of a Train
+
+All this talk of a railway mystery has sent my mind back to a
+loose memory. I will not merely say that this story is true:
+because, as you will soon see, it is all truth and no story.
+It has no explanation and no conclusion; it is, like most of the other
+things we encounter in life, a fragment of something else which
+would be intensely exciting if it were not too large to be seen.
+For the perplexity of life arises from there being too many
+interesting things in it for us to be interested properly in any
+of them; what we call its triviality is really the tag-ends
+of numberless tales; ordinary and unmeaning existence is like ten
+thousand thrilling detective stories mixed up with a spoon.
+My experience was a fragment of this nature, and it is, at any rate,
+not fictitious. Not only am I not making up the incidents
+(what there were of them), but I am not making up the atmosphere
+of the landscape, which were the whole horror of the thing.
+I remember them vividly, and they were as I shall now describe.
+
+. . . . .
+
+About noon of an ashen autumn day some years ago I was standing
+outside the station at Oxford intending to take the train to London.
+And for some reason, out of idleness or the emptiness of my mind
+or the emptiness of the pale grey sky, or the cold, a kind of caprice
+fell upon me that I would not go by that train at all, but would step
+out on the road and walk at least some part of the way to London.
+I do not know if other people are made like me in this matter;
+but to me it is always dreary weather, what may be called
+useless weather, that slings into life a sense of action and romance.
+On bright blue days I do not want anything to happen; the world
+is complete and beautiful, a thing for contemplation. I no more
+ask for adventures under that turquoise dome than I ask for
+adventures in church. But when the background of man's life is
+a grey background, then, in the name of man's sacred supremacy,
+I desire to paint on it in fire and gore. When the heavens fail
+man refuses to fail; when the sky seems to have written on it, in
+letters of lead and pale silver, the decree that nothing shall
+happen, then the immortal soul, the prince of the creatures, rises
+up and decrees that something shall happen, if it be only the
+slaughter of a policeman. But this is a digressive way of stating
+what I have said already--that the bleak sky awoke in me a hunger
+for some change of plans, that the monotonous weather seemed to
+render unbearable the use of the monotonous train, and that I set
+out into the country lanes, out of the town of Oxford. It was,
+perhaps, at that moment that a strange curse came upon me out of
+the city and the sky, whereby it was decreed that years afterwards
+I should, in an article in the DAILY NEWS, talk about Sir George
+Trevelyan in connection with Oxford, when I knew perfectly well
+that he went to Cambridge.
+
+As I crossed the country everything was ghostly and colourless.
+The fields that should have been green were as grey as the skies;
+the tree-tops that should have been green were as grey as the clouds
+and as cloudy. And when I had walked for some hours the evening
+was closing in. A sickly sunset clung weakly to the horizon,
+as if pale with reluctance to leave the world in the dark.
+And as it faded more and more the skies seemed to come closer and
+to threaten. The clouds which had been merely sullen became swollen;
+and then they loosened and let down the dark curtains of the rain.
+The rain was blinding and seemed to beat like blows from an enemy
+at close quarters; the skies seemed bending over and bawling
+in my ears. I walked on many more miles before I met a man,
+and in that distance my mind had been made up; and when I met
+him I asked him if anywhere in the neighbourhood I could pick up
+the train for Paddington. He directed me to a small silent station
+(I cannot even remember the name of it) which stood well away
+from the road and looked as lonely as a hut on the Andes.
+I do not think I have ever seen such a type of time and sadness
+and scepticism and everything devilish as that station was:
+it looked as if it had always been raining there ever since
+the creation of the world. The water streamed from the soaking
+wood of it as if it were not water at all, but some loathsome
+liquid corruption of the wood itself; as if the solid station
+were eternally falling to pieces and pouring away in filth.
+It took me nearly ten minutes to find a man in the station.
+When I did he was a dull one, and when I asked him if there was
+a train to Paddington his answer was sleepy and vague. As far as I
+understood him, he said there would be a train in half an hour.
+I sat down and lit a cigar and waited, watching the last tail
+of the tattered sunset and listening to the everlasting rain.
+It may have been in half an hour or less, but a train came rather
+slowly into the station. It was an unnaturally dark train;
+I could not see a light anywhere in the long black body of it;
+and I could not see any guard running beside it. I was reduced
+to walking up to the engine and calling out to the stoker to ask
+if the train was going to London. "Well--yes, sir," he said, with
+an unaccountable kind of reluctance. "It is going to London;
+but----" It was just starting, and I jumped into the first
+carriage; it was pitch dark. I sat there smoking and wondering,
+as we steamed through the continually darkening landscape, lined
+with desolate poplars, until we slowed down and stopped,
+irrationally, in the middle of a field. I heard a heavy noise as
+of some one clambering off the train, and a dark, ragged head
+suddenly put itself into my window. "Excuse me, sir," said the
+stoker, "but I think, perhaps--well, perhaps you ought to know--
+there's a dead man in this train."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Had I been a true artist, a person of exquisite susceptibilities
+and nothing else, I should have been bound, no doubt, to be
+finally overwhelmed with this sensational touch, and to have
+insisted on getting out and walking. As it was, I regret to
+say, I expressed myself politely, but firmly, to the effect that
+I didn't care particularly if the train took me to Paddington.
+But when the train had started with its unknown burden I did do
+one thing, and do it quite instinctively, without stopping to
+think, or to think more than a flash. I threw away my cigar.
+Something that is as old as man and has to do with all mourning
+and ceremonial told me to do it. There was something
+unnecessarily horrible, it seemed to me, in the idea of there
+being only two men in that train, and one of them dead and the
+other smoking a cigar. And as the red and gold of the butt end
+of it faded like a funeral torch trampled out at some symbolic
+moment of a procession, I realised how immortal ritual is. I
+realised (what is the origin and essence of all ritual) that in
+the presence of those sacred riddles about which we can say
+nothing it is more decent merely to do something. And I realised
+that ritual will always mean throwing away something; DESTROYING
+our corn or wine upon the altar of our gods.
+
+When the train panted at last into Paddington Station I sprang
+out of it with a suddenly released curiosity. There was a barrier
+and officials guarding the rear part of the train; no one was
+allowed to press towards it. They were guarding and hiding
+something; perhaps death in some too shocking form, perhaps
+something like the Merstham matter, so mixed up with human mystery
+and wickedness that the land has to give it a sort of sanctity;
+perhaps something worse than either. I went out gladly enough into
+the streets and saw the lamps shining on the laughing faces. Nor
+have I ever known from that day to this into what strange story I
+wandered or what frightful thing was my companion in the dark.
+
+
+IV
+
+THE PERFECT GAME
+
+We have all met the man who says that some odd things have
+happened to him, but that he does not really believe that they
+were supernatural. My own position is the opposite of this.
+I believe in the supernatural as a matter of intellect and reason,
+not as a matter of personal experience. I do not see ghosts;
+I only see their inherent probability. But it is entirely
+a matter of the mere intelligence, not even of the motions;
+my nerves and body are altogether of this earth, very earthy.
+But upon people of this temperament one weird incident will often
+leave a peculiar impression. And the weirdest circumstance
+that ever occurred to me occurred a little while ago. It consisted
+in nothing less than my playing a game, and playing it quite well
+for some seventeen consecutive minutes. The ghost of my grandfather
+would have astonished me less.
+
+On one of these blue and burning afternoons I found myself, to my
+inexpressible astonishment, playing a game called croquet. I had
+imagined that it belonged to the epoch of Leach and Anthony Trollope,
+and I had neglected to provide myself with those very long and
+luxuriant side whiskers which are really essential to such a scene.
+I played it with a man whom we will call Parkinson, and with whom I had
+a semi-philosophical argument which lasted through the entire contest.
+It is deeply implanted in my mind that I had the best of the argument;
+but it is certain and beyond dispute that I had the worst of the game.
+
+"Oh, Parkinson, Parkinson!" I cried, patting him affectionately
+on the head with a mallet, "how far you really are from the pure
+love of the sport--you who can play. It is only we who play badly
+who love the Game itself. You love glory; you love applause;
+you love the earthquake voice of victory; you do not love croquet.
+You do not love croquet until you love being beaten at croquet.
+It is we the bunglers who adore the occupation in the abstract.
+It is we to whom it is art for art's sake. If we may see the face
+of Croquet herself (if I may so express myself) we are content to
+see her face turned upon us in anger. Our play is called amateurish;
+and we wear proudly the name of amateur, for amateurs is but the
+French for Lovers. We accept all adventures from our Lady, the most
+disastrous or the most dreary. We wait outside her iron gates (I
+allude to the hoops), vainly essaying to enter. Our devoted balls,
+impetuous and full of chivalry, will not be confined within
+the pedantic boundaries of the mere croquet ground. Our balls seek
+honour in the ends of the earth; they turn up in the flower-beds
+and the conservatory; they are to be found in the front garden
+and the next street. No, Parkinson! The good painter has skill.
+It is the bad painter who loves his art. The good musician
+loves being a musician, the bad musician loves music. With such a
+pure and hopeless passion do I worship croquet. I love the game
+itself. I love the parallelogram of grass marked out with chalk or
+tape, as if its limits were the frontiers of my sacred Fatherland,
+the four seas of Britain. I love the mere swing of the mallets, and
+the click of the balls is music. The four colours are to me
+sacramental and symbolic, like the red of martyrdom, or the white
+of Easter Day. You lose all this, my poor Parkinson. You have to
+solace yourself for the absence of this vision by the paltry
+consolation of being able to go through hoops and to hit the stick."
+
+And I waved my mallet in the air with a graceful gaiety.
+
+"Don't be too sorry for me," said Parkinson, with his simple sarcasm.
+"I shall get over it in time. But it seems to me that the more
+a man likes a game the better he would want to play it. Granted that
+the pleasure in the thing itself comes first, does not the pleasure
+of success come naturally and inevitably afterwards? Or, take your
+own simile of the Knight and his Lady-love. I admit the gentleman
+does first and foremost want to be in the lady's presence. But I
+never yet heard of a gentleman who wanted to look an utter ass when
+he was there."
+
+"Perhaps not; though he generally looks it," I replied. "But the truth
+is that there is a fallacy in the simile, although it was my own. The
+happiness at which the lover is aiming is an infinite happiness, which
+can be extended without limit. The more he is loved, normally speaking,
+the jollier he will be. It is definitely true that the stronger the
+love of both lovers, the stronger will be the happiness. But it is not
+true that the stronger the play of both croquet players the stronger
+will be the game. It is logically possible--(follow me closely here,
+Parkinson!)--it is logically possible, to play croquet too well to
+enjoy it at all. If you could put this blue ball through that distant
+hoop as easily as you could pick it up with your hand, then you would
+not put it through that hoop any more than you pick it up with your
+hand; it would not be worth doing. If you could play unerringly you
+would not play at all. The moment the game is perfect the game
+disappears."
+
+"I do not think, however," said Parkinson, "that you are in any
+immediate danger of effecting that sort of destruction. I do not
+think your croquet will vanish through its own faultless excellence.
+You are safe for the present."
+
+I again caressed him with the mallet, knocked a ball about, wired myself,
+and resumed the thread of my discourse.
+
+The long, warm evening had been gradually closing in, and by this
+time it was almost twilight. By the time I had delivered four
+more fundamental principles, and my companion had gone through five
+more hoops, the dusk was verging upon dark.
+
+"We shall have to give this up," said Parkinson, as he missed
+a ball almost for the first time, "I can't see a thing."
+
+"Nor can I," I answered, "and it is a comfort to reflect that I
+could not hit anything if I saw it."
+
+With that I struck a ball smartly, and sent it away into the darkness
+towards where the shadowy figure of Parkinson moved in the hot haze.
+Parkinson immediately uttered a loud and dramatic cry. The situation,
+indeed, called for it. I had hit the right ball.
+
+Stunned with astonishment, I crossed the gloomy ground, and hit my ball
+again. It went through a hoop. I could not see the hoop; but it was
+the right hoop. I shuddered from head to foot.
+
+Words were wholly inadequate, so I slouched heavily after that
+impossible ball. Again I hit it away into the night, in what I
+supposed was the vague direction of the quite invisible stick.
+And in the dead silence I heard the stick rattle as the ball
+struck it heavily.
+
+I threw down my mallet. "I can't stand this," I said. "My ball has
+gone right three times. These things are not of this world."
+
+"Pick your mallet up ," said Parkinson, "have another go."
+
+"I tell you I daren't. If I made another hoop like that I should see
+all the devils dancing there on the blessed grass."
+
+"Why devils?" asked Parkinson; "they may be only fairies making fun of
+you. They are sending you the 'Perfect Game,' which is no game."
+
+I looked about me. The garden was full of a burning darkness,
+in which the faint glimmers had the look of fire. I stepped across
+the grass as if it burnt me, picked up the mallet, and hit the ball
+somewhere--somewhere where another ball might be. I heard the dull
+click of the balls touching, and ran into the house like one pursued.
+
+
+V
+
+The Extraordinary Cabman
+
+From time to time I have introduced into this newspaper column the
+narration of incidents that have really occurred. I do not mean to
+insinuate that in this respect it stands alone among newspaper
+columns. I mean only that I have found that my meaning was better
+expressed by some practical parable out of daily life than by any
+other method; therefore I propose to narrate the incident of the
+extraordinary cabman, which occurred to me only three days ago, and
+which, slight as it apparently is, aroused in me a moment of genuine
+emotion bordering upon despair.
+
+On the day that I met the strange cabman I had been lunching
+in a little restaurant in Soho in company with three or four
+of my best friends. My best friends are all either bottomless
+sceptics or quite uncontrollable believers, so our discussion
+at luncheon turned upon the most ultimate and terrible ideas.
+And the whole argument worked out ultimately to this: that the
+question is whether a man can be certain of anything at all.
+I think he can be certain, for if (as I said to my friend,
+furiously brandishing an empty bottle) it is impossible
+intellectually to entertain certainty, what is this certainty
+which it is impossible to entertain? If I have never experienced
+such a thing as certainty I cannot even say that a thing is not
+certain. Similarly, if I have never experienced such a thing as
+green I cannot even say that my nose is not green. It may be as
+green as possible for all I know, if I have really no experience
+of greenness. So we shouted at each other and shook the room;
+because metaphysics is the only thoroughly emotional thing.
+And the difference between us was very deep, because it
+was a difference as to the object of the whole thing
+called broad-mindedness or the opening of the intellect.
+For my friend said that he opened his intellect as the sun
+opens the fans of a palm tree, opening for opening's sake,
+opening infinitely for ever. But I said that I opened
+my intellect as I opened my mouth, in order to shut it
+again on something solid. I was doing it at the moment.
+And as I truly pointed out, it would look uncommonly silly
+if I went on opening my mouth infinitely, for ever and ever.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now when this argument was over, or at least when it was cut short
+(for it will never be over), I went away with one of my companions,
+who in the confusion and comparative insanity of a General Election
+had somehow become a member of Parliament, and I drove with him in a cab
+from the corner of Leicester-square to the members' entrance of the House
+of Commons, where the police received me with a quite unusual tolerance.
+Whether they thought that he was my keeper or that I was his keeper
+is a discussion between us which still continues.
+
+It is necessary in this narrative to preserve the utmost exactitude
+of detail. After leaving my friend at the House I took the cab
+on a few hundred yards to an office in Victoria-street which I
+had to visit. I then got out and offered him more than his fare.
+He looked at it, but not with the surly doubt and general
+disposition to try it on which is not unknown among normal cabmen.
+But this was no normal, perhaps, no human, cabman. He looked at it
+with a dull and infantile astonishment, clearly quite genuine.
+"Do you know, sir," he said, "you've only given me 1s.8d?"
+I remarked, with some surprise, that I did know it. "Now you know,
+sir," said he in a kindly, appealing, reasonable way, "you know
+that ain't the fare from Euston." "Euston," I repeated vaguely,
+for the phrase at that moment sounded to me like China or Arabia.
+"What on earth has Euston got to do with it?" "You hailed me just outside
+Euston Station," began the man with astonishing precision, "and then
+you said----" "What in the name of Tartarus are you talking about?"
+I said with Christian forbearance; "I took you at the south-west
+corner of Leicester-square." "Leicester-square," he exclaimed,
+loosening a kind of cataract of scorn, "why we ain't been near
+Leicester-square to-day. You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----" "Are you mad, or am I?" I asked with scientific calm.
+
+I looked at the man. No ordinary dishonest cabman would
+think of creating so solid and colossal and creative a lie.
+And this man was not a dishonest cabman. If ever a human
+face was heavy and simple and humble, and with great big
+blue eyes protruding like a frog's, if ever (in short)
+a human face was all that a human face should be, it was the
+face of that resentful and respectful cabman. I looked up and
+down the street; an unusually dark twilight seemed to be coming
+on. And for one second the old nightmare of the sceptic put
+its finger on my nerve. What was certainty? Was anybody
+certain of anything? Heavens! to think of the dull rut of the
+sceptics who go on asking whether we possess a future life.
+The exciting question for real scepticism is whether we
+possess a past life. What is a minute ago, rationalistically
+considered, except a tradition and a picture? The darkness grew
+deeper from the road. The cabman calmly gave me the most elaborate
+details of the gesture, the words, the complex but consistent
+course of action which I had adopted since that remarkable
+occasion when I had hailed him outside Euston Station. How did I
+know (my sceptical friends would say) that I had not hailed him
+outside Euston. I was firm about my assertion; he was quite equally
+firm about his. He was obviously quite as honest a man as I, and a
+member of a much more respectable profession. In that moment
+the universe and the stars swung just a hair's breadth from
+their balance, and the foundations of the earth were moved.
+But for the same reason that I believe in Democracy, for the same
+reason that I believe in free will, for the same reason that I
+believe in fixed character of virtue, the reason that could
+only be expressed by saying that I do not choose to be a lunatic,
+I continued to believe that this honest cabman was wrong,
+and I repeated to him that I had really taken him at the corner
+of Leicester-square. He began with the same evident and
+ponderous sincerity, "You hailed me outside Euston Station,
+and you said----"
+
+And at this moment there came over his features a kind
+of frightful transfiguration of living astonishment,
+as if he had been lit up like a lamp from the inside.
+"Why, I beg your pardon, sir," he said. "I beg your pardon.
+I beg your pardon. You took me from Leicester-square. I remember now.
+I beg your pardon." And with that this astonishing man let out
+his whip with a sharp crack at his horse and went trundling away.
+The whole of which interview, before the banner of St. George I swear,
+is strictly true.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I looked at the strange cabman as he lessened in the distance
+and the mists. I do not know whether I was right in fancying
+that although his face had seemed so honest there was something
+unearthly and demoniac about him when seen from behind.
+Perhaps he had been sent to tempt me from my adherence to those
+sanities and certainties which I had defended earlier in the day.
+In any case it gave me pleasure to remember that my sense of reality,
+though it had rocked for an instant, had remained erect.
+
+
+VI
+
+An Accident
+
+Some time ago I wrote in these columns an article called
+"The Extraordinary Cabman." I am now in a position to
+contribute my experience of a still more extraordinary cab.
+The extraordinary thing about the cab was that it did not like me;
+it threw me out violently in the middle of the Strand.
+If my friends who read the DAILY NEWS are as romantic (and as rich)
+as I take them to be, I presume that this experience is not uncommon.
+I suppose that they are all being thrown out of cabs, all over London.
+Still, as there are some people, virginal and remote from the world,
+who have not yet had this luxurious experience, I will give
+a short account of the psychology of myself when my hansom cab
+ran into the side of a motor omnibus, and I hope hurt it.
+
+I do not need to dwell on the essential romance of the hansom cab--
+that one really noble modern thing which our age, when it is judged,
+will gravely put beside the Parthenon. It is really modern in that
+it is both secret and swift. My particular hansom cab was modern in
+these two respects; it was also very modern in the fact that it came
+to grief. But it is also English; it is not to be found abroad; it
+belongs to a beautiful, romantic country where nearly everybody is
+pretending to be richer than they are, and acting as if they were.
+It is comfortable, and yet it is reckless; and that combination
+is the very soul of England. But although I had always
+realised all these good qualities in a hansom cab, I had not
+experienced all the possibilities, or, as the moderns put it,
+all the aspects of that vehicle. My enunciation of the merits
+of a hansom cab had been always made when it was the right way up.
+Let me, therefore, explain how I felt when I fell out of a hansom
+cab for the first and, I am happy to believe, the last time.
+Polycrates threw one ring into the sea to propitiate the Fates.
+I have thrown one hansom cab into the sea (if you will excuse a rather
+violent metaphor) and the Fates are, I am quite sure, propitiated.
+Though I am told they do not like to be told so.
+
+I was driving yesterday afternoon in a hansom cab down one
+of the sloping streets into the Strand, reading one of my own
+admirable articles with continual pleasure, and still more
+continual surprise, when the horse fell forward, scrambled a moment
+on the scraping stones, staggered to his feet again, and went forward.
+The horses in my cabs often do this, and I have learnt to enjoy
+my own articles at any angle of the vehicle. So I did not see
+anything at all odd about the way the horse went on again.
+But I saw it suddenly in the faces of all the people on the pavement.
+They were all turned towards me, and they were all struck
+with fear suddenly, as with a white flame out of the sky.
+And one man half ran out into the road with a movement of the
+elbow as if warding off a blow, and tried to stop the horse.
+Then I knew that the reins were lost, and the next moment the horse
+was like a living thunder-bolt. I try to describe things exactly
+as they seemed to me; many details I may have missed or mis-stated;
+many details may have, so to speak, gone mad in the race down the road.
+I remember that I once called one of my experiences narrated in this
+paper "A Fragment of Fact." This is, at any rate, a fragment of fact.
+No fact could possibly be more fragmentary than the sort of fact
+that I expected to be at the bottom of that street.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I believe in preaching to the converted; for I have generally
+found that the converted do not understand their own religion.
+Thus I have always urged in this paper that democracy has
+a deeper meaning than democrats understand; that is, that common
+and popular things, proverbs, and ordinary sayings always have
+something in them unrealised by most who repeat them. Here is one.
+We have all heard about the man who is in momentary danger,
+and who sees the whole of his life pass before him in a moment.
+In the cold, literal, and common sense of words, this is obviously
+a thundering lie. Nobody can pretend that in an accident
+or a mortal crisis he elaborately remembered all the tickets
+he had ever taken to Wimbledon, or all the times that he had ever
+passed the brown bread and butter.
+
+But in those few moments, while my cab was tearing towards
+the traffic of the Strand, I discovered that there is a truth
+behind this phrase, as there is behind all popular phrases.
+I did really have, in that short and shrieking period,
+a rapid succession of a number of fundamental points of view.
+I had, so to speak, about five religions in almost as many seconds.
+My first religion was pure Paganism, which among sincere men
+is more shortly described as extreme fear. Then there succeeded
+a state of mind which is quite real, but for which no proper
+name has ever been found. The ancients called it Stoicism,
+and I think it must be what some German lunatics mean
+(if they mean anything) when they talk about Pessimism.
+It was an empty and open acceptance of the thing that happens--
+as if one had got beyond the value of it. And then, curiously enough,
+came a very strong contrary feeling--that things mattered very
+much indeed, and yet that they were something more than tragic.
+It was a feeling, not that life was unimportant, but that
+life was much too important ever to be anything but life.
+I hope that this was Christianity. At any rate, it occurred
+at the moment when we went crash into the omnibus.
+
+It seemed to me that the hansom cab simply turned over on top of me,
+like an enormous hood or hat. I then found myself crawling
+out from underneath it in attitudes so undignified that they
+must have added enormously to that great cause to which the
+Anti-Puritan League and I have recently dedicated ourselves.
+I mean the cause of the pleasures of the people. As to my demeanour
+when I emerged, I have two confessions to make, and they are both
+made merely in the interests of mental science. The first is that
+whereas I had been in a quite pious frame of mind the moment before
+the collision, when I got to my feet and found I had got off with a
+cut or two I began (like St. Peter) to curse and to swear.
+A man offered me a newspaper or something that I had dropped.
+I can distinctly remember consigning the paper to a state
+of irremediable spiritual ruin. I am very sorry for this now,
+and I apologise both to the man and to the paper. I have not the
+least idea what was the meaning of this unnatural anger; I mention
+it as a psychological confession. It was immediately followed by
+extreme hilarity, and I made so many silly jokes to the policeman
+that he disgraced himself by continual laughter before all the
+little boys in the street, who had hitherto taken him seriously.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There is one other odd thing about the matter which I also mention
+as a curiosity of the human brain or deficiency of brain.
+At intervals of about every three minutes I kept on reminding
+the policeman that I had not paid the cabman, and that I hoped
+he would not lose his money. He said it would be all right,
+and the man would appear. But it was not until about half an hour
+afterwards that it suddenly struck me with a shock intolerable
+that the man might conceivably have lost more than half a crown;
+that he had been in danger as well as I. I had instinctively
+regarded the cabman as something uplifted above accidents, a god.
+I immediately made inquiries, and I am happy to say that they
+seemed to have been unnecessary.
+
+But henceforward I shall always understand with a darker and more delicate
+charity those who take tythe of mint, and anise, and cumin, and neglect
+the weightier matters of the law; I shall remember how I was once really
+tortured with owing half a crown to a man who might have been dead.
+Some admirable men in white coats at the Charing Cross Hospital tied
+up my small injury, and I went out again into the Strand. I felt upon
+me even a kind of unnatural youth; I hungered for something untried.
+So to open a new chapter in my life I got into a hansom cab.
+
+
+VII
+
+The Advantages of Having One Leg
+
+A friend of mine who was visiting a poor woman in bereavement
+and casting about for some phrase of consolation that should
+not be either insolent or weak, said at last, "I think one can
+live through these great sorrows and even be the better.
+What wears one is the little worries." "That's quite right, mum,"
+answered the old woman with emphasis, "and I ought to know,
+seeing I've had ten of 'em." It is, perhaps, in this sense
+that it is most true that little worries are most wearing.
+In its vaguer significance the phrase, though it contains a truth,
+contains also some possibilities of self-deception and error.
+People who have both small troubles and big ones have the
+right to say that they find the small ones the most bitter;
+and it is undoubtedly true that the back which is bowed under
+loads incredible can feel a faint addition to those loads;
+a giant holding up the earth and all its animal creation might
+still find the grasshopper a burden. But I am afraid that the
+maxim that the smallest worries are the worst is sometimes used
+or abused by people, because they have nothing but the very
+smallest worries. The lady may excuse herself for reviling the
+crumpled rose leaf by reflecting with what extraordinary dignity
+she would wear the crown of thorns--if she had to. The gentleman
+may permit himself to curse the dinner and tell himself that he
+would behave much better if it were a mere matter of starvation.
+We need not deny that the grasshopper on man's shoulder is
+a burden; but we need not pay much respect to the gentleman
+who is always calling out that he would rather have an elephant
+when he knows there are no elephants in the country.
+We may concede that a straw may break the camel's back,
+but we like to know that it really is the last straw and
+not the first.
+
+I grant that those who have serious wrongs have a real right
+to grumble, so long as they grumble about something else.
+It is a singular fact that if they are sane they almost always
+do grumble about something else. To talk quite reasonably about
+your own quite real wrongs is the quickest way to go off your head.
+But people with great troubles talk about little ones,
+and the man who complains of the crumpled rose leaf very often
+has his flesh full of the thorns. But if a man has commonly
+a very clear and happy daily life then I think we are justified
+in asking that he shall not make mountains out of molehills.
+I do no deny that molehills can sometimes be important.
+Small annoyances have this evil about them, that they can be more
+abrupt because they are more invisible; they cast no shadow before,
+they have no atmosphere. No one ever had a mystical premonition
+that he was going to tumble over a hassock. William III.
+died by falling over a molehill; I do not suppose that with all his
+varied abilities he could have managed to fall over a mountain.
+But when all this is allowed for, I repeat that we may ask a happy man
+(not William III.) to put up with pure inconveniences, and even make
+them part of his happiness. Of positive pain or positive poverty
+I do not here speak. I speak of those innumerable accidental
+limitations that are always falling across our path--bad weather,
+confinement to this or that house or room, failure of appointments
+or arrangements, waiting at railway stations, missing posts,
+finding unpunctuality when we want punctuality, or, what is worse,
+finding punctuality when we don't. It is of the poetic pleasures
+to be drawn from all these that I sing--I sing with confidence
+because I have recently been experimenting in the poetic pleasures
+which arise from having to sit in one chair with a sprained foot,
+with the only alternative course of standing on one leg like a stork--
+a stork is a poetic simile; therefore I eagerly adopted it.
+
+To appreciate anything we must always isolate it, even if
+the thing itself symbolise something other than isolation.
+If we wish to see what a house is it must be a house in some
+uninhabited landscape. If we wish to depict what a man really
+is we must depict a man alone in a desert or on a dark sea sand.
+So long as he is a single figure he means all that humanity means;
+so long as he is solitary he means human society; so long
+as he is solitary he means sociability and comradeship.
+Add another figure and the picture is less human--not more so.
+One is company, two is none. If you wish to symbolise
+human building draw one dark tower on the horizon; if you
+wish to symbolise light let there be no star in the sky.
+Indeed, all through that strangely lit season which we
+call our day there is but one star in the sky--a large,
+fierce star which we call the sun. One sun is splendid;
+six suns would be only vulgar. One Tower Of Giotto is sublime;
+a row of Towers of Giotto would be only like a row of white posts.
+The poetry of art is in beholding the single tower; the poetry
+of nature in seeing the single tree; the poetry of love in
+following the single woman; the poetry of religion in worshipping
+the single star. And so, in the same pensive lucidity, I find
+the poetry of all human anatomy in standing on a single leg.
+To express complete and perfect leggishness the leg must stand
+in sublime isolation, like the tower in the wilderness.
+As Ibsen so finely says, the strongest leg is that which
+stands most alone.
+
+This lonely leg on which I rest has all the simplicity
+of some Doric column. The students of architecture tell us
+that the only legitimate use of a column is to support weight.
+This column of mine fulfils its legitimate function.
+It supports weight. Being of an animal and organic consistency,
+it may even improve by the process, and during these few
+days that I am thus unequally balanced, the helplessness
+or dislocation of the one leg may find compensation in the
+astonishing strength and classic beauty of the other leg.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson in Mr. George Meredith's novel might
+pass by at any moment, and seeing me in the stork-like attitude
+would exclaim, with equal admiration and a more literal exactitude,
+"He has a leg." Notice how this famous literary phrase supports
+my contention touching this isolation of any admirable thing.
+Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson, wishing to make a clear and perfect
+picture of human grace, said that Sir Willoughby Patterne had a leg.
+She delicately glossed over and concealed the clumsy and offensive
+fact that he had really two legs. Two legs were superfluous
+and irrelevant, a reflection, and a confusion. Two legs would have
+confused Mrs. Mountstuart Jenkinson like two Monuments in London.
+That having had one good leg he should have another--
+this would be to use vain repetitions as the Gentiles do.
+She would have been as much bewildered by him as if he had
+been a centipede.
+
+All pessimism has a secret optimism for its object. All surrender
+of life, all denial of pleasure, all darkness, all austerity,
+all desolation has for its real aim this separation of something
+so that it may be poignantly and perfectly enjoyed. I feel
+grateful for the slight sprain which has introduced this mysterious
+and fascinating division between one of my feet and the other.
+The way to love anything is to realise that it might be lost.
+In one of my feet I can feel how strong and splendid a foot is;
+in the other I can realise how very much otherwise it might
+have been. The moral of the thing is wholly exhilarating.
+This world and all our powers in it are far more awful and
+beautiful than even we know until some accident reminds us.
+If you wish to perceive that limitless felicity, limit yourself
+if only for a moment. If you wish to realise how fearfully
+and wonderfully God's image is made, stand on one leg.
+If you want to realise the splendid vision of all visible things--
+wink the other eye.
+
+
+VIII
+
+The End of the World
+
+For some time I had been wandering in quiet streets in the curious
+town of Besanon, which stands like a sort of peninsula
+in a horse-shoe of river. You may learn from the guide books
+that it was the birthplace of Victor Hugo, and that it is
+a military station with many forts, near the French frontier.
+But you will not learn from guide books that the very tiles
+on the roofs seem to be of some quainter and more delicate
+colour than the tiles of all the other towns of the world;
+that the tiles look like the little clouds of some strange sunset,
+or like the lustrous scales of some strange fish. They will not
+tell you that in this town the eye cannot rest on anything without
+finding it in some way attractive and even elvish, a carved face
+at a street corner, a gleam of green fields through a stunted arch,
+or some unexpected colour for the enamel of a spire or dome.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Evening was coming on and in the light of it all these colours
+so simple and yet so subtle seemed more and more to fit together
+and make a fairy tale. I sat down for a little outside a caf
+with a row of little toy trees in front of it, and presently
+the driver of a fly (as we should call it) came to the same place.
+He was one of those very large and dark Frenchmen, a type not
+common but yet typical of France; the Rabelaisian Frenchman,
+huge, swarthy, purple-faced, a walking wine-barrel; he was a sort
+of Southern Falstaff, if one can imagine Falstaff anything but English.
+And, indeed, there was a vital difference, typical of two nations.
+For while Falstaff would have been shaking with hilarity like
+a huge jelly, full of the broad farce of the London streets,
+this Frenchman was rather solemn and dignified than otherwise--
+as if pleasure were a kind of pagan religion. After some
+talk which was full of the admirable civility and equality
+of French civilisation, he suggested without either eagerness
+or embarrassment that he should take me in his fly for an hour's
+ride in the hills beyond the town. And though it was growing late
+I consented; for there was one long white road under an archway
+and round a hill that dragged me like a long white cord.
+We drove through the strong, squat gateway that was made by Romans,
+and I remember the coincidence like a sort of omen that as we
+passed out of the city I heard simultaneously the three sounds
+which are the trinity of France. They make what some poet calls
+"a tangled trinity," and I am not going to disentangle it.
+Whatever those three things mean, how or why they co-exist;
+whether they can be reconciled or perhaps are reconciled already;
+the three sounds I heard then by an accident all at once make up
+the French mystery. For the brass band in the Casino gardens behind
+me was playing with a sort of passionate levity some ramping tune
+from a Parisian comic opera, and while this was going on I heard
+also the bugles on the hills above, that told of terrible loyalties
+and men always arming in the gate of France; and I heard also,
+fainter than these sounds and through them all, the Angelus.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After this coincidence of symbols I had a curious sense of having
+left France behind me, or, perhaps, even the civilised world.
+And, indeed, there was something in the landscape wild
+enough to encourage such a fancy. I have seen perhaps
+higher mountains, but I have never seen higher rocks;
+I have never seen height so near, so abrupt and sensational,
+splinters of rock that stood up like the spires of churches,
+cliffs that fell sudden and straight as Satan fell from heaven.
+There was also a quality in the ride which was not only astonishing,
+but rather bewildering; a quality which many must have noticed
+if they have driven or ridden rapidly up mountain roads.
+I mean a sense of gigantic gyration, as of the whole
+earth turning about one's head. It is quite inadequate
+to say that the hills rose and fell like enormous waves.
+Rather the hills seemed to turn about me like the enormous sails
+of a windmill, a vast wheel of monstrous archangelic wings.
+As we drove on and up into the gathering purple of the sunset this
+dizziness increased, confounding things above with things below.
+Wide walls of wooded rock stood out above my head like a roof.
+I stared at them until I fancied that I was staring down at a
+wooded plain. Below me steeps of green swept down to the river.
+I stared at them until I fancied that they swept up to the sky.
+The purple darkened, night drew nearer; it seemed only to cut clearer
+the chasms and draw higher the spires of that nightmare landscape.
+Above me in the twilight was the huge black hulk of the driver,
+and his broad, blank back was as mysterious as the back
+of Death in Watts' picture. I felt that I was growing
+too fantastic, and I sought to speak of ordinary things.
+I called out to the driver in French, "Where are you taking me?"
+and it is a literal and solemn fact that he answered me in the same
+language without turning around, "To the end of the world."
+
+I did not answer. I let him drag the vehicle up dark,
+steep ways, until I saw lights under a low roof of little
+trees and two children, one oddly beautiful, playing at ball.
+Then we found ourselves filling up the strict main street
+of a tiny hamlet, and across the wall of its inn was written
+in large letters, LE BOUT DU MONDE--the end of the world.
+
+The driver and I sat down outside that inn without a word, as if all
+ceremonies were natural and understood in that ultimate place.
+I ordered bread for both of us, and red wine, that was good but
+had no name. On the other side of the road was a little plain
+church with a cross on top of it and a cock on top of the cross.
+This seemed to me a very good end of the world; if the story
+of the world ended here it ended well. Then I wondered whether I
+myself should really be content to end here, where most certainly
+there were the best things of Christendom--a church and children's
+games and decent soil and a tavern for men to talk with men.
+But as I thought a singular doubt and desire grew slowly in me,
+and at last I started up.
+
+"Are you not satisfied?" asked my companion. "No," I said,
+"I am not satisfied even at the end of the world."
+
+Then, after a silence, I said, "Because you see there are two
+ends of the world. And this is the wrong end of the world;
+at least the wrong one for me. This is the French end of the world.
+I want the other end of the world. Drive me to the other end
+of the world."
+
+"The other end of the world?" he asked. "Where is that?"
+
+"It is in Walham Green," I whispered hoarsely. "You see it
+on the London omnibuses. 'World's End and Walham Green.'
+Oh, I know how good this is; I love your vineyards and your
+free peasantry, but I want the English end of the world.
+I love you like a brother, but I want an English cabman,
+who will be funny and ask me what his fare 'is.' Your bugles
+stir my blood, but I want to see a London policeman.
+Take, oh, take me to see a London policeman."
+
+He stood quite dark and still against the end of the sunset,
+and I could not tell whether he understood or not. I got back
+into his carriage.
+
+"You will understand," I said, "if ever you are an exile even
+for pleasure. The child to his mother, the man to his country,
+as a countryman of yours once said. But since, perhaps, it is
+rather too long a drive to the English end of the world,
+we may as well drive back to Besanon."
+
+Only as the stars came out among those immortal hills I wept
+for Walham Green.
+
+
+IX
+
+In the Place de La Bastille
+
+On the first of May I was sitting outside a caf in the Place de
+la Bastille in Paris staring at the exultant column, crowned with
+a capering figure, which stands in the place where the people
+destroyed a prison and ended an age. The thing is a curious
+example of how symbolic is the great part of human history.
+As a matter of mere material fact, the Bastille when it was taken
+was not a horrible prison; it was hardly a prison at all.
+But it was a symbol, and the people always go by a sure
+instinct for symbols; for the Chinaman, for instance,
+at the last General Election, or for President Kruger's hat
+in the election before; their poetic sense is perfect.
+The Chinaman with his pigtail is not an idle flippancy.
+He does typify with a compact precision exactly the thing
+the people resent in African policy, the alien and grotesque
+nature of the power of wealth, the fact that money has no roots,
+that it is not a natural and familiar power, but a sort of airy
+and evil magic calling monsters from the ends of the earth.
+The people hate the mine owner who can bring a Chinaman
+flying across the sea, exactly as the people hated the wizard
+who could fetch a flying dragon through the air. It was the same
+with Mr. Kruger's hat. His hat (that admirable hat) was not merely
+a joke. It did symbolise, and symbolise extremely well, the exact
+thing which our people at that moment regarded with impatience and
+venom; the old-fashioned, dingy, Republican simplicity, the
+unbeautiful dignity of the bourgeois, and the heavier truisms of
+political morality. No; the people are sometimes wrong on the
+practical side of politics; they are never wrong on the artistic
+side.
+
+. . . . .
+
+So it was, certainly, with the Bastille. The destruction of the Bastille
+was not a reform; it was something more important than a reform.
+It was an iconoclasm; it was the breaking of a stone image.
+The people saw the building like a giant looking at them with
+a score of eyes, and they struck at it as at a carved fact.
+For of all the shapes in which that immense illusion called materialism
+can terrify the soul, perhaps the most oppressive are big buildings.
+Man feels like a fly, an accident, in the thing he has himself made.
+It requires a violent effort of the spirit to remember that
+man made this confounding thing and man could unmake it.
+Therefore the mere act of the ragged people in the street
+taking and destroying a huge public building has a spiritual,
+a ritual meaning far beyond its immediate political results.
+It is a religious service. If, for instance, the Socialists were
+numerous or courageous enough to capture and smash up the Bank
+of England, you might argue for ever about the inutility of the act,
+and how it really did not touch the root of the economic problem
+in the correct manner. But mankind would never forget it.
+It would change the world.
+
+Architecture is a very good test of the true strength
+of a society, for the most valuable things in a human
+state are the irrevocable things--marriage, for instance.
+And architecture approaches nearer than any other art to
+being irrevocable, because it is so difficult to get rid of.
+You can turn a picture with its face to the wall; it would be a
+nuisance to turn that Roman cathedral with its face to the wall.
+You can tear a poem to pieces; it is only in moments of
+very sincere emotion that you tear a town-hall to pieces.
+A building is akin to dogma; it is insolent, like a dogma.
+Whether or no it is permanent, it claims permanence like a dogma.
+People ask why we have no typical architecture of the modern world,
+like impressionism in painting. Surely it is obviously
+because we have not enough dogmas; we cannot bear to see
+anything in the sky that is solid and enduring, anything in
+the sky that does not change like the clouds of the sky.
+But along with this decision which is involved in creating a building,
+there goes a quite similar decision in the more delightful
+task of smashing one. The two of necessity go together.
+In few places have so many fine public buildings been set up
+as here in Paris, and in few places have so many been destroyed.
+When people have finally got into the horrible habit of preserving
+buildings, they have got out of the habit of building them.
+And in London one mingles, as it were, one's tears because so few
+are pulled down.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I sat staring at the column of the Bastille, inscribed to Liberty
+and Glory, there came out of one corner of the square (which, like
+so many such squares, was at once crowded and quiet) a sudden and
+silent line of horsemen. Their dress was of a dull blue, plain and
+prosaic enough, but the sun set on fire the brass and steel of their
+helmets; and their helmets were carved like the helmets of the Romans.
+I had seen them by twos and threes often enough before.
+I had seen plenty of them in pictures toiling through the snows
+of Friedland or roaring round the squares at Waterloo.
+But now they came file after file, like an invasion,
+and something in their numbers, or in the evening light that lit
+up their faces and their crests, or something in the reverie
+into which they broke, made me inclined to spring to my feet
+and cry out, "The French soldiers!" There were the little men
+with the brown faces that had so often ridden through the capitals
+of Europe as coolly as they now rode through their own.
+And when I looked across the square I saw that the two other corners
+were choked with blue and red; held by little groups of infantry.
+The city was garrisoned as against a revolution.
+
+Of course, I had heard all about the strike, chiefly from a baker.
+He said he was not going to "Chomer." I said, "Qu'est-ce que
+c'est que le chome?" He said, "Ils ne veulent pas travailler."
+I said, "Ni moi non plus," and he thought I was a class-conscious
+collectivist proletarian. The whole thing was curious, and the true
+moral of it one not easy for us, as a nation, to grasp, because our
+own faults are so deeply and dangerously in the other direction.
+To me, as an Englishman (personally steeped in the English optimism
+and the English dislike of severity), the whole thing seemed a fuss
+about nothing. It looked like turning out one of the best armies
+in Europe against ordinary people walking about the street.
+The cavalry charged us once or twice, more or less harmlessly.
+But, of course, it is hard to say how far in such criticisms
+one is assuming the French populace to be (what it is not)
+as docile as the English. But the deeper truth of the matter tingled,
+so to speak, through the whole noisy night. This people has
+a natural faculty for feeling itself on the eve of something--of the
+Bartholomew or the Revolution or the Commune or the Day of Judgment.
+It is this sense of crisis that makes France eternally young.
+It is perpetually pulling down and building up, as it pulled down
+the prison and put up the column in the Place de La Bastille.
+France has always been at the point of dissolution. She has found
+the only method of immortality. She dies daily.
+
+
+X
+
+On Lying in Bed
+
+Lying in bed would be an altogether perfect and supreme experience
+if only one had a coloured pencil long enough to draw on the ceiling.
+This, however, is not generally a part of the domestic
+apparatus on the premises. I think myself that the thing
+might be managed with several pails of Aspinall and a broom.
+Only if one worked in a really sweeping and masterly way,
+and laid on the colour in great washes, it might drip down again
+on one's face in floods of rich and mingled colour like some
+strange fairy rain; and that would have its disadvantages.
+I am afraid it would be necessary to stick to black and white
+in this form of artistic composition. To that purpose, indeed,
+the white ceiling would be of the greatest possible use; in fact,
+it is the only use I think of a white ceiling being put to.
+
+But for the beautiful experiment of lying in bed I might never have
+discovered it. For years I have been looking for some blank spaces
+in a modern house to draw on. Paper is much too small for any really
+allegorical design; as Cyrano de Bergerac says, "Il me faut des gants."
+But when I tried to find these fine clear spaces in the modern
+rooms such as we all live in I was continually disappointed.
+I found an endless pattern and complication of small objects
+hung like a curtain of fine links between me and my desire.
+I examined the walls; I found them to my surprise to be
+already covered with wallpaper, and I found the wallpaper
+to be already covered with uninteresting images, all bearing
+a ridiculous resemblance to each other. I could not understand
+why one arbitrary symbol (a symbol apparently entirely
+devoid of any religious or philosophical significance)
+should thus be sprinkled all over my nice walls like a sort
+of small-pox. The Bible must be referring to wallpapers, I think,
+when it says, "Use not vain repetitions, as the Gentiles do."
+I found the Turkey carpet a mass of unmeaning colours,
+rather like the Turkish Empire, or like the sweetmeat called
+Turkish Delight. I do not exactly know what Turkish Delight
+really is; but I suppose it is Macedonian Massacres.
+Everywhere that I went forlornly, with my pencil or my paint brush,
+I found that others had unaccountably been before me,
+spoiling the walls, the curtains, and the furniture with their
+childish and barbaric designs.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Nowhere did I find a really clear space for sketching until this occasion
+when I prolonged beyond the proper limit the process of lying on my back
+in bed. Then the light of that white heaven broke upon my vision,
+that breadth of mere white which is indeed almost the definition
+of Paradise, since it means purity and also means freedom.
+But alas! like all heavens, now that it is seen it is found
+to be unattainable; it looks more austere and more distant
+than the blue sky outside the window. For my proposal to paint
+on it with the bristly end of a broom has been discouraged--
+never mind by whom; by a person debarred from all political rights--
+and even my minor proposal to put the other end of the broom into
+the kitchen fire and turn it to charcoal has not been conceded.
+Yet I am certain that it was from persons in my position that all
+the original inspiration came for covering the ceilings of palaces
+and cathedrals with a riot of fallen angels or victorious gods.
+I am sure that it was only because Michael Angelo was engaged
+in the ancient and honourable occupation of lying in bed that
+he ever realized how the roof of the Sistine Chapel might be made
+into an awful imitation of a divine drama that could only be acted
+in the heavens.
+
+The tone now commonly taken toward the practice of lying in bed
+is hypocritical and unhealthy. Of all the marks of modernity
+that seem to mean a kind of decadence, there is none more menacing
+and dangerous than the exultation of very small and secondary
+matters of conduct at the expense of very great and primary ones,
+at the expense of eternal ties and tragic human morality.
+If there is one thing worse than the modern weakening of major morals,
+it is the modern strengthening of minor morals. Thus it is considered
+more withering to accuse a man of bad taste than of bad ethics.
+Cleanliness is not next to godliness nowadays, for cleanliness
+is made essential and godliness is regarded as an offence.
+A playwright can attack the institution of marriage so long
+as he does not misrepresent the manners of society, and I have met
+Ibsenite pessimists who thought it wrong to take beer but right
+to take prussic acid. Especially this is so in matters of hygiene;
+notably such matters as lying in bed. Instead of being regarded,
+as it ought to be, as a matter of personal convenience
+and adjustment, it has come to be regarded by many as if it
+were a part of essential morals to get up early in the morning.
+It is upon the whole part of practical wisdom; but there is nothing
+good about it or bad about its opposite.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Misers get up early in the morning; and burglars, I am informed,
+get up the night before. It is the great peril of our society
+that all its mechanisms may grow more fixed while its spirit grows
+more fickle. A man's minor actions and arrangements ought to
+be free, flexible, creative; the things that should be unchangeable
+are his principles, his ideals. But with us the reverse is true;
+our views change constantly; but our lunch does not change.
+Now, I should like men to have strong and rooted conceptions,
+but as for their lunch, let them have it sometimes in the garden,
+sometimes in bed, sometimes on the roof, sometimes in the top
+of a tree. Let them argue from the same first principles,
+but let them do it in a bed, or a boat, or a balloon.
+This alarming growth of good habits really means a too great emphasis
+on those virtues which mere custom can ensure, it means too little
+emphasis on those virtues which custom can never quite ensure,
+sudden and splendid virtues of inspired pity or of inspired candour.
+If ever that abrupt appeal is made to us we may fail.
+A man can get use to getting up at five o'clock in the morning.
+A man cannot very well get used to being burnt for his opinions;
+the first experiment is commonly fatal. Let us pay a little more
+attention to these possibilities of the heroic and unexpected.
+I dare say that when I get out of this bed I shall do some deed
+of an almost terrible virtue.
+
+For those who study the great art of lying in bed there is one emphatic
+caution to be added. Even for those who can do their work in bed
+(like journalists), still more for those whose work cannot be done
+in bed (as, for example, the professional harpooners of whales),
+it is obvious that the indulgence must be very occasional.
+But that is not the caution I mean. The caution is this:
+if you do lie in bed, be sure you do it without any reason or
+justification at all. I do not speak, of course, of the seriously sick.
+But if a healthy man lies in bed, let him do it without a rag of excuse;
+then he will get up a healthy man. If he does it for some secondary
+hygienic reason, if he has some scientific explanation, he may get
+up a hypochondriac.
+
+
+XI
+
+The Twelve Men
+
+The other day, while I was meditating on morality and Mr. H. Pitt, I was,
+so to speak, snatched up and put into a jury box to try people.
+The snatching took some weeks, but to me it seemed something sudden
+and arbitrary. I was put into this box because I lived in Battersea,
+and my name began with a C. Looking round me, I saw that there were
+also summoned and in attendance in the court whole crowds and processions
+of men, all of whom lived in Battersea, and all of whose names began
+with a C.
+
+It seems that they always summon jurymen in this sweeping
+alphabetical way. At one official blow, so to speak,
+Battersea is denuded of all its C's, and left to get on
+as best it can with the rest of the alphabet. A Cumberpatch
+is missing from one street--a Chizzolpop from another--
+three Chucksterfields from Chucksterfield House; the children
+are crying out for an absent Cadgerboy; the woman at the street
+corner is weeping for her Coffintop, and will not be comforted.
+We settle down with a rollicking ease into our seats
+(for we are a bold, devil-may-care race, the C's of Battersea),
+and an oath is administered to us in a totally inaudible manner
+by an individual resembling an Army surgeon in his second childhood.
+We understand, however, that we are to well and truly try the case
+between our sovereign lord the King and the prisoner at the bar,
+neither of whom has put in an appearance as yet.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Just when I was wondering whether the King and the prisoner
+were, perhaps, coming to an amicable understanding in some
+adjoining public house, the prisoner's head appears above
+the barrier of the dock; he is accused of stealing bicycles,
+and he is the living image of a great friend of mine.
+We go into the matter of the stealing of the bicycles.
+We do well and truly try the case between the King and the
+prisoner in the affair of the bicycles. And we come to the
+conclusion, after a brief but reasonable discussion, that
+the King is not in any way implicated. Then we pass on to a
+woman who neglected her children, and who looks as if somebody
+or something had neglected her. And I am one of those who fancy
+that something had.
+
+All the time that the eye took in these light appearances
+and the brain passed these light criticisms, there was in
+the heart a barbaric pity and fear which men have never been
+able to utter from the beginning, but which is the power behind
+half the poems of the world. The mood cannot even adequately
+be suggested, except faintly by this statement that tragedy
+is the highest expression of the infinite value of human life.
+Never had I stood so close to pain; and never so far away
+from pessimism. Ordinarily, I should not have spoken of these
+dark emotions at all, for speech about them is too difficult;
+but I mention them now for a specific and particular
+reason to the statement of which I will proceed at once.
+I speak these feelings because out of the furnace of them there
+came a curious realisation of a political or social truth.
+I saw with a queer and indescribable kind of clearness what
+a jury really is, and why we must never let it go.
+
+The trend of our epoch up to this time has been consistently towards
+specialism and professionalism. We tend to have trained soldiers
+because they fight better, trained singers because they sing better,
+trained dancers because they dance better, specially instructed
+laughers because they laugh better, and so on and so on.
+The principle has been applied to law and politics by innumerable
+modern writers. Many Fabians have insisted that a greater
+part of our political work should be performed by experts.
+Many legalists have declared that the untrained jury should be
+altogether supplanted by the trained Judge.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now, if this world of ours were really what is called reasonable,
+I do not know that there would be any fault to find with this.
+But the true result of all experience and the true foundation
+of all religion is this. That the four or five things
+that it is most practically essential that a man should know,
+are all of them what people call paradoxes. That is to say,
+that though we all find them in life to be mere plain truths,
+yet we cannot easily state them in words without being guilty
+of seeming verbal contradictions. One of them, for instance,
+is the unimpeachable platitude that the man who finds most
+pleasure for himself is often the man who least hunts for it.
+Another is the paradox of courage; the fact that the way
+to avoid death is not to have too much aversion to it.
+Whoever is careless enough of his bones to climb some hopeful
+cliff above the tide may save his bones by that carelessness.
+Whoever will lose his life, the same shall save it;
+an entirely practical and prosaic statement.
+
+Now, one of these four or five paradoxes which should be taught
+to every infant prattling at his mother's knee is the following:
+That the more a man looks at a thing, the less he can see it,
+and the more a man learns a thing the less he knows it.
+The Fabian argument of the expert, that the man who is trained
+should be the man who is trusted would be absolutely unanswerable
+if it were really true that a man who studied a thing and practiced
+it every day went on seeing more and more of its significance.
+But he does not. He goes on seeing less and less of its significance.
+In the same way, alas! we all go on every day, unless we are
+continually goading ourselves into gratitude and humility,
+seeing less and less of the significance of the sky or the stones.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now it is a terrible business to mark a man out for the vengeance of men.
+But it is a thing to which a man can grow accustomed, as he can
+to other terrible things; he can even grow accustomed to the sun.
+And the horrible thing about all legal officials, even the best,
+about all judges, magistrates, barristers, detectives, and policemen,
+is not that they are wicked (some of them are good), not that they
+are stupid (several of them are quite intelligent), it is simply
+that they have got used to it.
+
+Strictly they do not see the prisoner in the dock; all they
+see is the usual man in the usual place. They do not see
+the awful court of judgment; they only see their own workshop.
+Therefore, the instinct of Christian civilisation has most wisely
+declared that into their judgments there shall upon every occasion
+be infused fresh blood and fresh thoughts from the streets.
+Men shall come in who can see the court and the crowd,
+and coarse faces of the policeman and the professional criminals,
+the wasted faces of the wastrels, the unreal faces of the
+gesticulating counsel, and see it all as one sees a new picture
+or a play hitherto unvisited.
+
+Our civilisation has decided, and very justly decided,
+that determining the guilt or innocence of men is a thing too
+important to be trusted to trained men. It wishes for light upon
+that awful matter, it asks men who know no more law than I know,
+but who can feel the things that I felt in the jury box.
+When it wants a library catalogued, or the solar system discovered,
+or any trifle of that kind, it uses up specialists. But when it
+wishes anything done which is really serious, it collects twelve
+of the ordinary men standing round. The same thing was done, if I
+remember right, by the Founder of Christianity.
+
+
+XII
+
+The Wind and the Trees
+
+I am sitting under tall trees, with a great wind boiling like surf
+about the tops of them, so that their living load of leaves rocks
+and roars in something that is at once exultation and agony.
+I feel, in fact, as if I were actually sitting at the bottom
+of the sea among mere anchors and ropes, while over my head
+and over the green twilight of water sounded the everlasting rush
+of waves and the toil and crash and shipwreck of tremendous ships.
+The wind tugs at the trees as if it might pluck them root
+and all out of the earth like tufts of grass. Or, to try yet
+another desperate figure of speech for this unspeakable energy,
+the trees are straining and tearing and lashing as if they
+were a tribe of dragons each tied by the tail.
+
+As I look at these top-heavy giants tortured by an invisible
+and violent witchcraft, a phrase comes back into my mind.
+I remember a little boy of my acquaintance who was once walking
+in Battersea Park under just such torn skies and tossing trees.
+He did not like the wind at all; it blew in his face too much;
+it made him shut his eyes; and it blew off his hat, of which
+he was very proud. He was, as far as I remember, about four.
+After complaining repeatedly of the atmospheric unrest, he said
+at last to his mother, "Well, why don't you take away the trees,
+and then it wouldn't wind."
+
+Nothing could be more intelligent or natural than this mistake.
+Any one looking for the first time at the trees might fancy
+that they were indeed vast and titanic fans, which by their mere
+waving agitated the air around them for miles. Nothing, I say,
+could be more human and excusable than the belief that it is
+the trees which make the wind. Indeed, the belief is so human
+and excusable that it is, as a matter of fact, the belief of about
+ninety-nine out of a hundred of the philosophers, reformers,
+sociologists, and politicians of the great age in which we live.
+My small friend was, in fact, very like the principal modern thinkers;
+only much nicer.
+
+. . . . .
+
+In the little apologue or parable which he has thus the honour
+of inventing, the trees stand for all visible things
+and the wind for the invisible. The wind is the spirit
+which bloweth where it listeth; the trees are the material
+things of the world which are blown where the spirit lists.
+The wind is philosophy, religion, revolution; the trees are
+cities and civilisations. We only know that there is a wind
+because the trees on some distant hill suddenly go mad.
+We only know that there is a real revolution because all
+the chimney-pots go mad on the whole skyline of the city.
+
+Just as the ragged outline of a tree grows suddenly more
+ragged and rises into fantastic crests or tattered tails,
+so the human city rises under the wind of the spirit into toppling
+temples or sudden spires. No man has ever seen a revolution.
+Mobs pouring through the palaces, blood pouring down the gutters,
+the guillotine lifted higher than the throne, a prison
+in ruins, a people in arms--these things are not revolution,
+but the results of revolution.
+
+You cannot see a wind; you can only see that there is a wind.
+So, also, you cannot see a revolution; you can only see that
+there is a revolution. And there never has been in the history
+of the world a real revolution, brutally active and decisive,
+which was not preceded by unrest and new dogma in the reign
+of invisible things. All revolutions began by being abstract.
+Most revolutions began by being quite pedantically abstract.
+
+The wind is up above the world before a twig on the tree has moved.
+So there must always be a battle in the sky before there
+is a battle on the earth. Since it is lawful to pray
+for the coming of the kingdom, it is lawful also to pray for
+the coming of the revolution that shall restore the kingdom.
+It is lawful to hope to hear the wind of Heaven in the trees.
+It is lawful to pray "Thine anger come on earth as it
+is in Heaven."
+
+. . . . .
+
+The great human dogma, then, is that the wind moves the trees.
+The great human heresy is that the trees move the wind.
+When people begin to say that the material circumstances have
+alone created the moral circumstances, then they have prevented
+all possibility of serious change. For if my circumstances
+have made me wholly stupid, how can I be certain even that I
+am right in altering those circumstances?
+
+The man who represents all thought as an accident of environment
+is simply smashing and discrediting all his own thoughts--
+including that one. To treat the human mind as having an ultimate
+authority is necessary to any kind of thinking, even free thinking.
+And nothing will ever be reformed in this age or country unless
+we realise that the moral fact comes first.
+
+For example, most of us, I suppose, have seen in print and heard
+in debating clubs an endless discussion that goes on between Socialists
+and total abstainers. The latter say that drink leads to poverty;
+the former say that poverty leads to drink. I can only wonder at their
+either of them being content with such simple physical explanations.
+Surely it is obvious that the thing which among the English proletariat
+leads to poverty is the same as the thing which leads to drink;
+the absence of strong civic dignity, the absence of an instinct
+that resists degradation.
+
+When you have discovered why enormous English estates were not long
+ago cut up into small holdings like the land of France, you will have
+discovered why the Englishman is more drunken than the Frenchman.
+The Englishman, among his million delightful virtues, really has
+this quality, which may strictly be called "hand to mouth," because under
+its influence a man's hand automatically seeks his own mouth,
+instead of seeking (as it sometimes should do) his oppressor's nose.
+And a man who says that the English inequality in land is due only
+to economic causes, or that the drunkenness of England is due only
+to economic causes, is saying something so absurd that he cannot
+really have thought what he was saying.
+
+Yet things quite as preposterous as this are said and written under
+the influence of that great spectacle of babyish helplessness, the
+economic theory of history. We have people who represent that all
+great historic motives were economic, and then have to howl at the
+top of their voices in order to induce the modern democracy to act
+on economic motives. The extreme Marxian politicians in England
+exhibit themselves as a small, heroic minority, trying vainly to
+induce the world to do what, according to their theory, the world
+always does. The truth is, of course, that there will be a social
+revolution the moment the thing has ceased to be purely economic.
+You can never have a revolution in order to establish a democracy.
+You must have a democracy in order to have a revolution.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I get up from under the trees, for the wind and the slight
+rain have ceased. The trees stand up like golden pillars
+in a clear sunlight. The tossing of the trees and the blowing
+of the wind have ceased simultaneously. So I suppose there
+are still modern philosophers who will maintain that the trees
+make the wind.
+
+
+XIII
+
+The Dickensian
+
+He was a quiet man, dressed in dark clothes, with a large limp straw hat;
+with something almost military in his moustache and whiskers,
+but with a quite unmilitary stoop and very dreamy eyes.
+He was gazing with a rather gloomy interest at the cluster,
+one might almost say the tangle, of small shipping which grew thicker
+as our little pleasure boat crawled up into Yarmouth Harbour.
+A boat entering this harbour, as every one knows, does not
+enter in front of the town like a foreigner, but creeps round
+at the back like a traitor taking the town in the rear.
+The passage of the river seems almost too narrow for traffic,
+and in consequence the bigger ships look colossal. As we passed
+under a timber ship from Norway, which seemed to block up the heavens
+like a cathedral, the man in a straw hat pointed to an odd wooden
+figurehead carved like a woman, and said, like one continuing
+a conversation, "Now, why have they left off having them.
+They didn't do any one any harm?"
+
+I replied with some flippancy about the captain's wife being jealous;
+but I knew in my heart that the man had struck a deep note.
+There has been something in our most recent civilisation which is
+mysteriously hostile to such healthy and humane symbols.
+
+"They hate anything like that, which is human and pretty," he continued,
+exactly echoing my thoughts. "I believe they broke up all the jolly
+old figureheads with hatchets and enjoyed doing it."
+
+"Like Mr. Quilp," I answered, "when he battered the wooden Admiral
+with the poker."
+
+His whole face suddenly became alive, and for the first time
+he stood erect and stared at me.
+
+"Do you come to Yarmouth for that?" he asked.
+
+"For what?"
+
+"For Dickens," he answered, and drummed with his foot on the deck.
+
+"No," I answered; "I come for fun, though that is much the same thing."
+
+"I always come," he answered quietly, "to find Peggotty's boat.
+It isn't here."
+
+And when he said that I understood him perfectly.
+
+There are two Yarmouths; I daresay there are two hundred
+to the people who live there. I myself have never come
+to the end of the list of Batterseas. But there are two to
+the stranger and tourist; the poor part, which is dignified,
+and the prosperous part, which is savagely vulgar.
+My new friend haunted the first of these like a ghost;
+to the latter he would only distantly allude.
+
+"The place is very much spoilt now . . . trippers, you know,"
+he would say, not at all scornfully, but simply sadly.
+That was the nearest he would go to an admission of the monstrous
+watering place that lay along the front, outblazing the sun,
+and more deafening than the sea. But behind--out of earshot
+of this uproar--there are lanes so narrow that they seem
+like secret entrances to some hidden place of repose.
+There are squares so brimful of silence that to plunge into one
+of them is like plunging into a pool. In these places the man
+and I paced up and down talking about Dickens, or, rather,
+doing what all true Dickensians do, telling each other verbatim
+long passages which both of us knew quite well already.
+We were really in the atmosphere of the older England.
+Fishermen passed us who might well have been characters
+like Peggotty; we went into a musty curiosity shop and
+bought pipe-stoppers carved into figures from Pickwick.
+The evening was settling down between all the buildings
+with that slow gold that seems to soak everything when we went
+into the church.
+
+In the growing darkness of the church, my eye caught the coloured
+windows which on that clear golden evening were flaming with all the
+passionate heraldry of the most fierce and ecstatic of Christian arts.
+At length I said to my companion:
+
+"Do you see that angel over there? I think it must be meant
+for the angel at the sepulchre."
+
+He saw that I was somewhat singularly moved, and he raised his eyebrows.
+
+"I daresay," he said. "What is there odd about that?"
+
+After a pause I said, "Do you remember what the angel at
+the sepulchre said?"
+
+"Not particularly," he answered; "but where are you off
+to in such a hurry?"
+
+I walked him rapidly out of the still square, past the
+fishermen's almshouses, towards the coast, he still inquiring
+indignantly where I was going.
+
+"I am going," I said, "to put pennies in automatic machines
+on the beach. I am going to listen to the niggers. I am going
+to have my photograph taken. I am going to drink ginger-beer
+out of its original bottle. I will buy some picture postcards.
+I do want a boat. I am ready to listen to a concertina,
+and but for the defects of my education should be ready to play it.
+I am willing to ride on a donkey; that is, if the donkey is willing.
+I am willing to be a donkey; for all this was commanded me
+by the angel in the stained-glass window."
+
+"I really think," said the Dickensian, "that I had better put
+you in charge of your relations."
+
+"Sir," I answered, "there are certain writers to whom humanity
+owes much, whose talent is yet of so shy or delicate or retrospective
+a type that we do well to link it with certain quaint places
+or certain perishing associations. It would not be unnatural
+to look for the spirit of Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill,
+or even for the shade of Thackeray in Old Kensington.
+But let us have no antiquarianism about Dickens, for Dickens
+is not an antiquity. Dickens looks not backward, but forward;
+he might look at our modern mobs with satire, or with fury,
+but he would love to look at them. He might lash our democracy,
+but it would be because, like a democrat, he asked much from it.
+We will not have all his books bound up under the title
+of 'The Old Curiosity Shop.' Rather we will have them
+all bound up under the title of 'Great Expectations.'
+Wherever humanity is he would have us face it and make
+something of it, swallow it with a holy cannibalism,
+and assimilate it with the digestion of a giant. We must
+take these trippers as he would have taken them, and tear
+out of them their tragedy and their farce. Do you remember
+now what the angel said at the sepulchre? 'Why seek ye the
+living among the dead? He is not here; he is risen.'"
+
+With that we came out suddenly on the wide stretch of the sands,
+which were black with the knobs and masses of our laughing and quite
+desperate democracy. And the sunset, which was now in its final glory,
+flung far over all of them a red flush and glitter like the gigantic
+firelight of Dickens. In that strange evening light every figure
+looked at once grotesque and attractive, as if he had a story to tell.
+I heard a little girl (who was being throttled by another little girl)
+say by way of self-vindication, "My sister-in-law 'as got four rings
+aside her weddin' ring!"
+
+I stood and listened for more, but my friend went away.
+
+
+XIV
+
+In Topsy-Turvy Land
+
+Last week, in an idle metaphor, I took the tumbling of trees
+and the secret energy of the wind as typical of the visible world
+moving under the violence of the invisible. I took this metaphor
+merely because I happened to be writing the article in a wood.
+Nevertheless, now that I return to Fleet Street (which seems to me,
+I confess, much better and more poetical than all the wild woods
+in the world), I am strangely haunted by this accidental comparison.
+The people's figures seem a forest and their soul a wind.
+All the human personalities which speak or signal to me seem to have
+this fantastic character of the fringe of the forest against the sky.
+That man that talks to me, what is he but an articulate tree?
+That driver of a van who waves his hands wildly at me to tell me
+to get out of the way, what is he but a bunch of branches stirred
+and swayed by a spiritual wind, a sylvan object that I can continue
+to contemplate with calm? That policeman who lifts his hand
+to warn three omnibuses of the peril that they run in encountering
+my person, what is he but a shrub shaken for a moment with that
+blast of human law which is a thing stronger than anarchy?
+Gradually this impression of the woods wears off. But this
+black-and-white contrast between the visible and invisible, this deep
+sense that the one essential belief is belief in the invisible as against
+the visible, is suddenly and sensationally brought back to my mind.
+Exactly at the moment when Fleet Street has grown most familiar (that is,
+most bewildering and bright), my eye catches a poster of vivid violet,
+on which I see written in large black letters these remarkable words:
+"Should Shop Assistants Marry?"
+
+. . . . .
+
+When I saw those words everything might just as well
+have turned upside down. The men in Fleet Street might
+have been walking about on their hands. The cross of
+St. Paul's might have been hanging in the air upside down.
+For I realise that I have really come into a topsy-turvy country;
+I have come into the country where men do definitely believe
+that the waving of the trees makes the wind. That is to say,
+they believe that the material circumstances, however black
+and twisted, are more important than the spiritual realities,
+however powerful and pure. "Should Shop Assistants Marry?" I am
+puzzled to think what some periods and schools of human history
+would have made of such a question. The ascetics of the East
+or of some periods of the early Church would have thought
+that the question meant, "Are not shop assistants too saintly,
+too much of another world, even to feel the emotions of the sexes?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster means.
+In some pagan cities it might have meant, "Shall slaves so vile
+as shop assistants even be allowed to propagate their abject race?"
+But I suppose that is not what the purple poster meant.
+We must face, I fear, the full insanity of what it does mean.
+It does really mean that a section of the human race is asking
+whether the primary relations of the two human sexes are particularly
+good for modern shops. The human race is asking whether Adam
+and Eve are entirely suitable for Marshall and Snelgrove.
+If this is not topsy-turvy I cannot imagine what would be.
+We ask whether the universal institution will improve our
+(please God) temporary institution. Yet I have known many
+such questions. For instance, I have known a man ask seriously,
+"Does Democracy help the Empire?" Which is like saying,
+"Is art favourable to frescoes?"
+
+I say that there are many such questions asked.
+But if the world ever runs short of them, I can suggest
+a large number of questions of precisely the same kind,
+based on precisely the same principle.
+
+"Do Feet Improve Boots?"--"Is Bread Better when Eaten?"--"Should
+Hats have Heads in them?"--"Do People Spoil a Town?"--"Do Walls
+Ruin Wall-papers?"--"Should Neckties enclose Necks?"--"Do Hands
+Hurt Walking-sticks?"--"Does Burning Destroy Firewood?"--"Is
+Cleanliness Good for Soap?"--"Can Cricket Really Improve
+Cricket-bats?"--"Shall We Take Brides with our Wedding Rings?"
+and a hundred others.
+
+Not one of these questions differs at all in intellectual purport
+or in intellectual value from the question which I have quoted from
+the purple poster, or from any of the typical questions asked by
+half of the earnest economists of our times. All the questions they
+ask are of this character; they are all tinged with this same initial
+absurdity. They do not ask if the means is suited to the end; they
+all ask (with profound and penetrating scepticism) if the end is suited
+to the means. They do not ask whether the tail suits the dog.
+They all ask whether a dog is (by the highest artistic canons)
+the most ornamental appendage that can be put at the end of a tail.
+In short, instead of asking whether our modern arrangements,
+our streets, trades, bargains, laws, and concrete institutions are
+suited to the primal and permanent idea of a healthy human life,
+they never admit that healthy human life into the discussion
+at all, except suddenly and accidentally at odd moments;
+and then they only ask whether that healthy human life is suited
+to our streets and trades. Perfection may be attainable or
+unattainable as an end. It may or may not be possible to talk
+of imperfection as a means to perfection. But surely it passes
+toleration to talk of perfection as a means to imperfection.
+The New Jerusalem may be a reality. It may be a dream.
+But surely it is too outrageous to say that the New Jerusalem
+is a reality on the road to Birmingham.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the most enormous and at the same time the most secret
+of the modern tyrannies of materialism. In theory the thing ought
+to be simple enough. A really human human being would always put
+the spiritual things first. A walking and speaking statue of God
+finds himself at one particular moment employed as a shop assistant.
+He has in himself a power of terrible love, a promise of paternity,
+a thirst for some loyalty that shall unify life, and in the ordinary
+course of things he asks himself, "How far do the existing conditions
+of those assisting in shops fit in with my evident and epic destiny
+in the matter of love and marriage?" But here, as I have said,
+comes in the quiet and crushing power of modern materialism.
+It prevents him rising in rebellion, as he would otherwise do.
+By perpetually talking about environment and visible things,
+by perpetually talking about economics and physical necessity,
+painting and keeping repainted a perpetual picture of iron
+machinery and merciless engines, of rails of steel, and of
+towers of stone, modern materialism at last produces this
+tremendous impression in which the truth is stated upside down.
+At last the result is achieved. The man does not say as
+he ought to have said, "Should married men endure being modern
+shop assistants?" The man says, "Should shop assistants marry?"
+Triumph has completed the immense illusion of materialism.
+The slave does not say, "Are these chains worthy of me?"
+The slave says scientifically and contentedly, "Am I even worthy
+of these chains?"
+
+
+XV
+
+What I Found in My Pocket
+
+Once when I was very young I met one of those men who have
+made the Empire what it is--a man in an astracan coat,
+with an astracan moustache--a tight, black, curly moustache.
+Whether he put on the moustache with the coat or whether his Napoleonic
+will enabled him not only to grow a moustache in the usual place,
+but also to grow little moustaches all over his clothes, I do not know.
+I only remember that he said to me the following words: "A man can't
+get on nowadays by hanging about with his hands in his pockets."
+I made reply with the quite obvious flippancy that perhaps a man got
+on by having his hands in other people's pockets; whereupon he began
+to argue about Moral Evolution, so I suppose what I said had some
+truth in it. But the incident now comes back to me, and connects
+itself with another incident--if you can call it an incident--
+which happened to me only the other day.
+
+I have only once in my life picked a pocket, and then (perhaps through
+some absent-mindedness) I picked my own. My act can really with some
+reason be so described. For in taking things out of my own pocket I
+had at least one of the more tense and quivering emotions of the thief;
+I had a complete ignorance and a profound curiosity as to what I should
+find there. Perhaps it would be the exaggeration of eulogy to call me a
+tidy person. But I can always pretty satisfactorily account for all my
+possessions. I can always tell where they are, and what I have done with
+them, so long as I can keep them out of my pockets. If once anything
+slips into those unknown abysses, I wave it a sad Virgilian farewell.
+I suppose that the things that I have dropped into my pockets
+are still there; the same presumption applies to the things
+that I have dropped into the sea. But I regard the riches stored
+in both these bottomless chasms with the same reverent ignorance.
+They tell us that on the last day the sea will give up its dead;
+and I suppose that on the same occasion long strings of
+extraordinary things will come running out of my pockets.
+But I have quite forgotten what any of them are; and there
+is really nothing (excepting the money) that I shall be at all
+surprised at finding among them.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least has hitherto been my state of innocence.
+I here only wish briefly to recall the special, extraordinary,
+and hitherto unprecedented circumstances which led me in
+cold blood, and being of sound mind, to turn out my pockets.
+I was locked up in a third-class carriage for a rather long journey.
+The time was towards evening, but it might have been anything,
+for everything resembling earth or sky or light or shade
+was painted out as if with a great wet brush by an unshifting
+sheet of quite colourless rain. I had no books or newspapers.
+I had not even a pencil and a scrap of paper with which
+to write a religious epic. There were no advertisements
+on the walls of the carriage, otherwise I could have plunged
+into the study, for any collection of printed words is quite
+enough to suggest infinite complexities of mental ingenuity.
+When I find myself opposite the words "Sunlight Soap" I can
+exhaust all the aspects of Sun Worship, Apollo, and Summer
+poetry before I go on to the less congenial subject of soap.
+But there was no printed word or picture anywhere; there was
+nothing but blank wood inside the carriage and blank wet without.
+Now I deny most energetically that anything is, or can
+be, uninteresting. So I stared at the joints of the walls and seats,
+and began thinking hard on the fascinating subject of wood.
+Just as I had begun to realise why, perhaps, it was that Christ
+was a carpenter, rather than a bricklayer, or a baker,
+or anything else, I suddenly started upright, and remembered
+my pockets. I was carrying about with me an unknown treasury.
+I had a British Museum and a South Kensington collection
+of unknown curios hung all over me in different places.
+I began to take the things out.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The first thing I came upon consisted of piles and heaps of
+Battersea tram tickets. There were enough to equip a paper chase.
+They shook down in showers like confetti. Primarily, of course,
+they touched my patriotic emotions, and brought tears to my eyes;
+also they provided me with the printed matter I required,
+for I found on the back of them some short but striking
+little scientific essays about some kind of pill. Comparatively
+speaking, in my then destitution, those tickets might be regarded
+as a small but well-chosen scientific library. Should my railway
+journey continue (which seemed likely at the time) for a few months
+longer, I could imagine myself throwing myself into the controversial
+aspects of the pill, composing replies and rejoinders pro and con
+upon the data furnished to me. But after all it was the symbolic
+quality of the tickets that moved me most. For as certainly as the
+cross of St. George means English patriotism, those scraps of paper
+meant all that municipal patriotism which is now, perhaps, the
+greatest hope of England.
+
+The next thing that I took out was a pocket-knife. A pocket-knife,
+I need hardly say, would require a thick book full of moral
+meditations all to itself. A knife typifies one of the most
+primary of those practical origins upon which as upon low,
+thick pillows all our human civilisation reposes. Metals, the
+mystery of the thing called iron and of the thing called steel,
+led me off half-dazed into a kind of dream. I saw into the
+intrails of dim, damp wood, where the first man among all the
+common stones found the strange stone. I saw a vague and violent
+battle, in which stone axes broke and stone knives were splintered
+against something shining and new in the hand of one desperate man.
+I heard all the hammers on all the anvils of the earth.
+I saw all the swords of Feudal and all the weals of Industrial war.
+For the knife is only a short sword; and the pocket-knife
+is a secret sword. I opened it and looked at that brilliant
+and terrible tongue which we call a blade; and I thought that
+perhaps it was the symbol of the oldest of the needs of man.
+The next moment I knew that I was wrong; for the thing
+that came next out of my pocket was a box of matches.
+Then I saw fire, which is stronger even than steel, the old,
+fierce female thing, the thing we all love, but dare not touch.
+
+The next thing I found was a piece of chalk; and I saw
+in it all the art and all the frescoes of the world.
+The next was a coin of a very modest value; and I saw in it
+not only the image and superscription of our own Caesar,
+but all government and order since the world began.
+But I have not space to say what were the items in the long and
+splendid procession of poetical symbols that came pouring out.
+I cannot tell you all the things that were in my pocket.
+I can tell you one thing, however, that I could not find in my pocket.
+I allude to my railway ticket.
+
+
+XVI
+
+The Dragon's Grandmother
+
+I met a man the other day who did not believe in fairy tales.
+I do not mean that he did not believe in the incidents narrated
+in them--that he did not believe that a pumpkin could turn into
+a coach. He did, indeed, entertain this curious disbelief.
+And, like all the other people I have ever met who entertained it,
+he was wholly unable to give me an intelligent reason for it.
+He tried the laws of nature, but he soon dropped that.
+Then he said that pumpkins were unalterable in ordinary experience,
+and that we all reckoned on their infinitely protracted pumpkinity.
+But I pointed out to him that this was not an attitude we
+adopt specially towards impossible marvels, but simply
+the attitude we adopt towards all unusual occurrences.
+If we were certain of miracles we should not count on them.
+Things that happen very seldom we all leave out of
+our calculations, whether they are miraculous or not.
+I do not expect a glass of water to be turned into wine;
+but neither do I expect a glass of water to be poisoned with
+prussic acid. I do not in ordinary business relations act
+on the assumption that the editor is a fairy; but neither do I
+act on the assumption that he is a Russian spy, or the lost
+heir of the Holy Roman Empire. What we assume in action is
+not that the natural order is unalterable, but simply that it
+is much safer to bet on uncommon incidents than on common ones.
+This does not touch the credibility of any attested tale
+about a Russian spy or a pumpkin turned into a coach.
+If I had seen a pumpkin turned into a Panhard motor-car
+with my own eyes that would not make me any more inclined
+to assume that the same thing would happen again. I should not
+invest largely in pumpkins with an eye to the motor trade.
+Cinderella got a ball dress from the fairy; but I do not suppose
+that she looked after her own clothes any the less after it.
+
+But the view that fairy tales cannot really have happened,
+though crazy, is common. The man I speak of disbelieved
+in fairy tales in an even more amazing and perverted sense.
+He actually thought that fairy tales ought not to be told
+to children. That is (like a belief in slavery or annexation)
+one of those intellectual errors which lie very near
+to ordinary mortal sins. There are some refusals which,
+though they may be done what is called conscientiously,
+yet carry so much of their whole horror in the very act of them,
+that a man must in doing them not only harden but slightly
+corrupt his heart. One of them was the refusal of milk to young
+mothers when their husbands were in the field against us.
+Another is the refusal of fairy tales to children.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man had come to see me in connection with some silly society
+of which I am an enthusiastic member; he was a fresh-coloured,
+short-sighted young man, like a stray curate who was too
+helpless even to find his way to the Church of England. He had a
+curious green necktie and a very long neck; I am always meeting
+idealists with very long necks. Perhaps it is that their eternal
+aspiration slowly lifts their heads nearer and nearer to the stars.
+Or perhaps it has something to do with the fact that so many of
+them are vegetarians: perhaps they are slowly evolving the neck of
+the giraffe so that they can eat all the tops of the trees in
+Kensington Gardens. These things are in every sense above me.
+Such, anyhow, was the young man who did not believe in fairy tales;
+and by a curious coincidence he entered the room when I had just
+finished looking through a pile of contemporary fiction, and had
+begun to read "Grimm's Fairy tales" as a natural consequence.
+
+The modern novels stood before me, however, in a stack; and you can
+imagine their titles for yourself. There was "Suburban Sue: A Tale
+of Psychology," and also "Psychological Sue: A Tale of Suburbia";
+there was "Trixy: A Temperament," and "Man-Hate: A Monochrome," and all
+those nice things. I read them with real interest, but, curiously enough,
+I grew tired of them at last, and when I saw "Grimm's Fairy Tales"
+lying accidentally on the table, I gave a cry of indecent joy.
+Here at least, here at last, one could find a little common sense.
+I opened the book, and my eyes fell on these splendid and satisfying
+words, "The Dragon's Grandmother." That at least was reasonable;
+that at least was true. "The Dragon's Grandmother!" While I was
+rolling this first touch of ordinary human reality upon my tongue,
+I looked up suddenly and saw this monster with a green tie standing
+in the doorway.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I listened to what he said about the society politely enough,
+I hope; but when he incidentally mentioned that he did not believe
+in fairy tales, I broke out beyond control. "Man," I said,
+"who are you that you should not believe in fairy tales?
+It is much easier to believe in Blue Beard than to believe in you.
+A blue beard is a misfortune; but there are green ties which are sins.
+It is far easier to believe in a million fairy tales
+than to believe in one man who does not like fairy tales.
+I would rather kiss Grimm instead of a Bible and swear to all
+his stories as if they were thirty-nine articles than say
+seriously and out of my heart that there can be such a man as you;
+that you are not some temptation of the devil or some delusion
+from the void. Look at these plain, homely, practical words.
+'The Dragon's Grandmother,' that is all right; that is rational
+almost to the verge of rationalism. If there was a dragon,
+he had a grandmother. But you--you had no grandmother!
+If you had known one, she would have taught you to love fairy tales.
+You had no father, you had no mother; no natural causes can explain you.
+You cannot be. I believe many things which I have not seen;
+but of such things as you it may be said, 'Blessed is he that has
+seen and yet has disbelieved.'"
+
+. . . . .
+
+It seemed to me that he did not follow me with sufficient delicacy,
+so I moderated my tone. "Can you not see," I said, "that fairy
+tales in their essence are quite solid and straightforward;
+but that this everlasting fiction about modern life is in its
+nature essentially incredible? Folk-lore means that the soul
+is sane, but that the universe is wild and full of marvels.
+Realism means that the world is dull and full of routine, but that
+the soul is sick and screaming. The problem of the fairy tale is--
+what will a healthy man do with a fantastic world? The problem
+of the modern novel is--what will a madman do with a dull world?
+In the fairy tales the cosmos goes mad; but the hero does not go mad.
+In the modern novels the hero is mad before the book begins,
+and suffers from the harsh steadiness and cruel sanity of the cosmos.
+In the excellent tale of 'The Dragon's Grandmother,' in all the other
+tales of Grimm, it is assumed that the young man setting out on his
+travels will have all substantial truths in him; that he will be brave,
+full of faith, reasonable, that he will respect his parents,
+keep his word, rescue one kind of people, defy another kind,
+'parcere subjectis et debellare,' etc. Then, having assumed
+this centre of sanity, the writer entertains himself by fancying
+what would happen if the whole world went mad all round it,
+if the sun turned green and the moon blue, if horses had six legs
+and giants had two heads. But your modern literature takes insanity
+as its centre. Therefore, it loses the interest even of insanity.
+A lunatic is not startling to himself, because he is quite serious;
+that is what makes him a lunatic. A man who thinks he is
+a piece of glass is to himself as dull as a piece of glass.
+A man who thinks he is a chicken is to himself as common as a chicken.
+It is only sanity that can see even a wild poetry in insanity.
+Therefore, these wise old tales made the hero ordinary and
+the tale extraordinary. But you have made the hero extraordinary
+and the tale ordinary--so ordinary--oh, so very ordinary."
+
+I saw him still gazing at me fixedly. Some nerve snapped in me
+under the hypnotic stare. I leapt to my feet and cried, "In the name
+of God and Democracy and the Dragon's grandmother--in the name of all
+good things--I charge you to avaunt and haunt this house no more."
+Whether or no it was the result of the exorcism, there is no doubt
+that he definitely went away.
+
+
+XVII
+
+The Red Angel
+
+I find that there really are human beings who think fairy tales bad
+for children. I do not speak of the man in the green tie, for him
+I can never count truly human. But a lady has written me an earnest
+letter saying that fairy tales ought not to be taught to children even
+if they are true. She says that it is cruel to tell children fairy
+tales, because it frightens them. You might just as well say that
+it is cruel to give girls sentimental novels because it makes them cry.
+All this kind of talk is based on that complete forgetting
+of what a child is like which has been the firm foundation
+of so many educational schemes. If you keep bogies and goblins
+away from children they would make them up for themselves.
+One small child in the dark can invent more hells than Swedenborg.
+One small child can imagine monsters too big and black
+to get into any picture, and give them names too unearthly
+and cacophonous to have occurred in the cries of any lunatic.
+The child, to begin with, commonly likes horrors, and he
+continues to indulge in them even when he does not like them.
+There is just as much difficulty in saying exactly where pure
+pain begins in his case, as there is in ours when we walk of our
+own free will into the torture-chamber of a great tragedy.
+The fear does not come from fairy tales; the fear comes from
+the universe of the soul.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The timidity of the child or the savage is entirely reasonable;
+they are alarmed at this world, because this world is a very
+alarming place. They dislike being alone because it is verily
+and indeed an awful idea to be alone. Barbarians fear
+the unknown for the same reason that Agnostics worship it--
+because it is a fact. Fairy tales, then, are not responsible
+for producing in children fear, or any of the shapes of fear;
+fairy tales do not give the child the idea of the evil or the ugly;
+that is in the child already, because it is in the world already.
+Fairy tales do not give the child his first idea of bogey.
+What fairy tales give the child is his first clear idea
+of the possible defeat of bogey. The baby has known
+the dragon intimately ever since he had an imagination.
+What the fairy tale provides for him is a St. George to
+kill the dragon.
+
+Exactly what the fairy tale does is this: it accustoms him
+for a series of clear pictures to the idea that these limitless
+terrors had a limit, that these shapeless enemies have enemies
+in the knights of God, that there is something in the universe
+more mystical than darkness, and stronger than strong fear.
+When I was a child I have stared at the darkness until the whole
+black bulk of it turned into one negro giant taller than heaven.
+If there was one star in the sky it only made him a Cyclops.
+But fairy tales restored my mental health, for next day I read
+an authentic account of how a negro giant with one eye, of quite
+equal dimensions, had been baffled by a little boy like myself
+(of similar inexperience and even lower social status)
+by means of a sword, some bad riddles, and a brave heart.
+Sometimes the sea at night seemed as dreadful as any dragon.
+But then I was acquainted with many youngest sons and little
+sailors to whom a dragon or two was as simple as the sea.
+
+Take the most horrible of Grimm's tales in incident and imagery,
+the excellent tale of the "Boy who Could not Shudder," and you
+will see what I mean. There are some living shocks in that tale.
+I remember specially a man's legs which fell down the chimney
+by themselves and walked about the room, until they were rejoined
+by the severed head and body which fell down the chimney after them.
+That is very good. But the point of the story and the point
+of the reader's feelings is not that these things are frightening,
+but the far more striking fact that the hero was not frightened at them.
+The most fearful of all these fearful wonders was his own absence
+of fear. He slapped the bogies on the back and asked the devils
+to drink wine with him; many a time in my youth, when stifled with some
+modern morbidity, I have prayed for a double portion of his spirit.
+If you have not read the end of his story, go and read it;
+it is the wisest thing in the world. The hero was at last taught
+to shudder by taking a wife, who threw a pail of cold water over him.
+In that one sentence there is more of the real meaning of marriage
+than in all the books about sex that cover Europe and America.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the four corners of a child's bed stand Perseus and Roland, Sigurd and
+St. George. If you withdraw the guard of heroes you are not making
+him rational; you are only leaving him to fight the devils alone.
+For the devils, alas, we have always believed in. The hopeful element in
+the universe has in modern times continually been denied and reasserted;
+but the hopeless element has never for a moment been denied.
+As I told "H. N. B." (whom I pause to wish a Happy Christmas in its
+most superstitious sense), the one thing modern people really do
+believe in is damnation. The greatest of purely modern poets summed
+up the really modern attitude in that fine Agnostic line--
+
+"There may be Heaven; there must be Hell."
+
+The gloomy view of the universe has been a continuous tradition;
+and the new types of spiritual investigation or conjecture all begin
+by being gloomy. A little while ago men believed in no spirits.
+Now they are beginning rather slowly to believe in rather slow spirits.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Some people objected to spiritualism, table rappings, and such things,
+because they were undignified, because the ghosts cracked jokes or
+waltzed with dinner-tables. I do not share this objection in the least.
+I wish the spirits were more farcical than they are. That they
+should make more jokes and better ones, would be my suggestion.
+For almost all the spiritualism of our time, in so far as it is new,
+is solemn and sad. Some Pagan gods were lawless, and some Christian
+saints were a little too serious; but the spirits of modern spiritualism
+are both lawless and serious--a disgusting combination. The specially
+contemporary spirits are not only devils, they are blue devils.
+This is, first and last, the real value of Christmas; in so far
+as the mythology remains at all it is a kind of happy mythology.
+Personally, of course, I believe in Santa Claus; but it is the season
+of forgiveness, and I will forgive others for not doing so.
+But if there is anyone who does not comprehend the defect in our
+world which I am civilising, I should recommend him, for instance,
+to read a story by Mr. Henry James, called "The Turn of the Screw."
+It is one of the most powerful things ever written, and it is one
+of the things about which I doubt most whether it ought ever to have
+been written at all. It describes two innocent children gradually
+growing at once omniscient and half-witted under the influence of
+the foul ghosts of a groom and a governess. As I say, I doubt whether
+Mr. Henry James ought to have published it (no, it is not indecent,
+do not buy it; it is a spiritual matter), but I think the question
+so doubtful that I will give that truly great man a chance.
+I will approve the thing as well as admire it if he will write
+another tale just as powerful about two children and Santa Claus.
+If he will not, or cannot, then the conclusion is clear; we can
+deal strongly with gloomy mystery, but not with happy mystery;
+we are not rationalists, but diabolists.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have thought vaguely of all this staring at a great red fire that
+stands up in the room like a great red angel. But, perhaps, you have
+never heard of a red angel. But you have heard of a blue devil.
+That is exactly what I mean.
+
+
+XVIII
+
+The Tower
+
+I have been standing where everybody has stood, opposite the great
+Belfry Tower of Bruges, and thinking, as every one has thought
+(though not, perhaps, said), that it is built in defiance of all decencies
+of architecture. It is made in deliberate disproportion to achieve
+the one startling effect of height. It is a church on stilts.
+But this sort of sublime deformity is characteristic of the whole fancy
+and energy of these Flemish cities. Flanders has the flattest and most
+prosaic landscapes, but the most violent and extravagant of buildings.
+Here Nature is tame; it is civilisation that is untamable.
+Here the fields are as flat as a paved square; but, on the other hand,
+the streets and roofs are as uproarious as a forest in a great wind.
+The waters of wood and meadow slide as smoothly and meekly
+as if they were in the London water-pipes. But the parish
+pump is carved with all the creatures out of the wilderness.
+Part of this is true, of course, of all art. We talk of wild animals,
+but the wildest animal is man. There are sounds in music that are
+more ancient and awful than the cry of the strangest beast at night.
+And so also there are buildings that are shapeless in their strength,
+seeming to lift themselves slowly like monsters from the primal mire,
+and there are spires that seem to fly up suddenly like a startled bird.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This savagery even in stone is the expression of the special spirit
+in humanity. All the beasts of the field are respectable; it is only
+man who has broken loose. All animals are domestic animals; only man
+is ever undomestic. All animals are tame animals; it is only we who
+are wild. And doubtless, also, while this queer energy is common to
+all human art, it is also generally characteristic of Christian art
+among the arts of the world. This is what people really mean when
+they say that Christianity is barbaric, and arose in ignorance.
+As a matter of historic fact, it didn't; it arose in the most
+equably civilised period the world has ever seen.
+
+But it is true that there is something in it that breaks
+the outline of perfect and conventional beauty, something that dots
+with anger the blind eyes of the Apollo and lashes to a cavalry
+charge the horses of the Elgin Marbles. Christianity is savage,
+in the sense that it is primeval; there is in it a touch
+of the nigger hymn. I remember a debate in which I had praised
+militant music in ritual, and some one asked me if I could
+imagine Christ walking down the street before a brass band.
+I said I could imagine it with the greatest ease; for Christ
+definitely approved a natural noisiness at a great moment.
+When the street children shouted too loud, certain priggish
+disciples did begin to rebuke them in the name of good taste.
+He said: "If these were silent the very stones would cry out."
+With these words He called up all the wealth of artistic
+creation that has been founded on this creed. With those words
+He founded Gothic architecture. For in a town like this,
+which seems to have grown Gothic as a wood grows leaves,
+anywhere and anyhow, any odd brick or moulding may be carved off
+into a shouting face. The front of vast buildings is thronged
+with open mouths, angels praising God, or devils defying Him.
+Rock itself is racked and twisted, until it seems to scream.
+The miracle is accomplished; the very stones cry out.
+
+But though this furious fancy is certainly a specialty of men among
+creatures, and of Christian art among arts, it is still most notable
+in the art of Flanders. All Gothic buildings are full of extravagant
+things in detail; but this is an extravagant thing in design. All
+Christian temples worth talking about have gargoyles; but Bruges
+Belfry is a gargoyle. It is an unnaturally long-necked animal, like
+a giraffe. The same impression of exaggeration is forced on the mind
+at every corner of a Flemish town. And if any one asks,
+"Why did the people of these flat countries instinctively raise
+these riotous and towering monuments?" the only answer one can
+give is, "Because they were the people of these flat countries."
+If any one asks, "Why the men of Bruges sacrificed architecture
+and everything to the sense of dizzy and divine heights?"
+we can only answer, "Because Nature gave them no encouragement
+to do so."
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I stare at the Belfry, I think with a sort of smile of some
+of my friends in London who are quite sure of how children will
+turn out if you give them what they call "the right environment."
+It is a troublesome thing, environment, for it sometimes works
+positively and sometimes negatively, and more often between the two.
+A beautiful environment may make a child love beauty;
+it may make him bored with beauty; most likely the two effects
+will mix and neutralise each other. Most likely, that is,
+the environment will make hardly any difference at all.
+In the scientific style of history (which was recently fashionable,
+and is still conventional) we always had a list of countries
+that had owed their characteristics to their physical conditions.
+
+The Spaniards (it was said) are passionate because their country
+is hot; Scandinavians adventurous because their country is cold;
+Englishmen naval because they are islanders; Switzers free
+because they are mountaineers. It is all very nice in its way.
+Only unfortunately I am quite certain that I could make up quite
+as long a list exactly contrary in its argument point-blank
+against the influence of their geographical environment.
+Thus Spaniards have discovered more continents than Scandinavians
+because their hot climate discouraged them from exertion.
+Thus Dutchmen have fought for their freedom quite as
+bravely as Switzers because the Dutch have no mountains.
+Thus Pagan Greece and Rome and many Mediterranean peoples have
+specially hated the sea because they had the nicest sea to deal with,
+the easiest sea to manage. I could extend the list for ever.
+But however long it was, two examples would certainly stand up in it
+as pre-eminent and unquestionable. The first is that the Swiss,
+who live under staggering precipices and spires of eternal snow,
+have produced no art or literature at all, and are by far
+the most mundane, sensible, and business-like people in Europe.
+The other is that the people of Belgium, who live in a country
+like a carpet, have, by an inner energy, desired to exalt their
+towers till they struck the stars.
+
+As it is therefore quite doubtful whether a person will go specially
+with his environment or specially against his environment,
+I cannot comfort myself with the thought that the modern
+discussions about environment are of much practical value.
+But I think I will not write any more about these modern
+theories, but go on looking at the Belfry of Bruges. I would
+give them the greater attention if I were not pretty well
+convinced that the theories will have disappeared a long time
+before the Belfry.
+
+
+XIX
+
+How I Met the President
+
+Several years ago, when there was a small war going on in South Africa
+and a great fuss going on in England, when it was by no means so popular
+and convenient to be a Pro-Boer as it is now, I remember making
+a bright suggestion to my Pro-Boer friends and allies, which was not,
+I regret to say, received with the seriousness it deserved.
+I suggested that a band of devoted and noble youths, including ourselves,
+should express our sense of the pathos of the President's and
+the Republic's fate by growing Kruger beards under our chins.
+I imagined how abruptly this decoration would alter the appearance
+of Mr. John Morley; how startling it would be as it emerged from under
+the chin of Mr. Lloyd-George. But the younger men, my own friends,
+on whom I more particularly urged it, men whose names are in many cases
+familiar to the readers of this paper--Mr. Masterman's for instance,
+and Mr. Conrad Noel--they, I felt, being young and beautiful,
+would do even more justice to the Kruger beard, and when walking
+down the street with it could not fail to attract attention.
+The beard would have been a kind of counterblast to the Rhodes hat.
+An appropriate counterblast; for the Rhodesian power in Africa
+is only an external thing, placed upon the top like a hat;
+the Dutch power and tradition is a thing rooted and growing
+like a beard; we have shaved it, and it is growing again.
+The Kruger beard would represent time and the natural processes.
+You cannot grow a beard in a moment of passion.
+
+. . . . .
+
+After making this proposal to my friends I hurriedly left town.
+I went down to a West Country place where there was shortly afterwards
+an election, at which I enjoyed myself very much canvassing for
+the Liberal candidate. The extraordinary thing was that he got in.
+I sometimes lie awake at night and meditate upon that mystery;
+but it must not detain us now. The rather singular incident
+which happened to me then, and which some recent events have
+recalled to me, happened while the canvassing was still going on.
+It was a burning blue day, and the warm sunshine, settling everywhere
+on the high hedges and the low hills, brought out into a kind
+of heavy bloom that HUMANE quality of the landscape which,
+as far as I know, only exists in England; that sense as if
+the bushes and the roads were human, and had kindness like men;
+as if the tree were a good giant with one wooden leg;
+as if the very line of palings were a row of good-tempered gnomes.
+On one side of the white, sprawling road a low hill or down
+showed but a little higher than the hedge, on the other the land
+tumbled down into a valley that opened towards the Mendip hills.
+The road was very erratic, for every true English road exists
+in order to lead one a dance; and what could be more beautiful
+and beneficent than a dance? At an abrupt turn of it I came upon
+a low white building, with dark doors and dark shuttered windows,
+evidently not inhabited and scarcely in the ordinary sense inhabitable--
+a thing more like a toolhouse than a house of any other kind.
+Made idle by the heat, I paused, and, taking a piece of red chalk
+out of my pocket, began drawing aimlessly on the back door--
+drawing goblins and Mr. Chamberlain, and finally the ideal
+Nationalist with the Kruger beard. The materials did not permit
+of any delicate rendering of his noble and national expansion
+of countenance (stoical and yet hopeful, full of tears for man,
+and yet of an element of humour); but the hat was finely handled.
+Just as I was adding the finishing touches to the Kruger fantasy,
+I was frozen to the spot with terror. The black door,
+which I thought no more of than the lid of an empty box,
+began slowly to open, impelled from within by a human hand.
+And President Kruger himself came out into the sunlight!
+
+He was a shade milder of eye than he was in his portraits, and he did
+not wear that ceremonial scarf which was usually, in such pictures,
+slung across his ponderous form. But there was the hat which filled
+the Empire with so much alarm; there were the clumsy dark clothes,
+there was the heavy, powerful face; there, above all, was the Kruger
+beard which I had sought to evoke (if I may use the verb) from under
+the features of Mr. Masterman. Whether he had the umbrella or not I
+was too much emotionally shaken to observe; he had not the stone
+lions with him, or Mrs. Kruger; and what he was doing in that dark
+shed I cannot imagine, but I suppose he was oppressing an Outlander.
+
+I was surprised, I must confess, to meet President Kruger
+in Somersetshire during the war. I had no idea that he was in
+the neighbourhood. But a yet more arresting surprise awaited me.
+Mr. Kruger regarded me for some moments with a dubious grey eye,
+and then addressed me with a strong Somersetshire accent.
+A curious cold shock went through me to hear that inappropriate voice
+coming out of that familiar form. It was as if you met a Chinaman,
+with pigtail and yellow jacket, and he began to talk broad Scotch.
+But the next moment, of course, I understood the situation.
+We had much underrated the Boers in supposing that the Boer
+education was incomplete. In pursuit of his ruthless plot
+against our island home, the terrible President had learnt not
+only English, but all the dialects at a moment's notice to win
+over a Lancashire merchant or seduce a Northumberland Fusilier.
+No doubt, if I asked him, this stout old gentleman could
+grind out Sussex, Essex, Norfolk, Suffolk, and so on,
+like the tunes in a barrel organ. I could not wonder if our plain,
+true-hearted German millionaires fell before a cunning so penetrated
+with culture as this.
+
+. . . . .
+
+And now I come to the third and greatest surprise of all
+that this strange old man gave me. When he asked me,
+dryly enough, but not without a certain steady civility
+that belongs to old-fashioned country people, what I wanted
+and what I was doing, I told him the facts of the case,
+explaining my political mission and the almost angelic qualities
+of the Liberal candidate. Whereupon, this old man became
+suddenly transfigured in the sunlight into a devil of wrath.
+It was some time before I could understand a word he said,
+but the one word that kept on recurring was the word "Kruger,"
+and it was invariably accompanied with a volley of violent terms.
+Was I for old Kruger, was I? Did I come to him and want him
+to help old Kruger? I ought to be ashamed, I was . . . and
+here he became once more obscure. The one thing that he made
+quite clear was that he wouldn't do anything for Kruger.
+
+"But you ARE Kruger," burst from my lips, in a natural explosion
+of reasonableness. "You ARE Kruger, aren't you?"
+
+After this innocent CRI DE COEUR of mine, I thought at first
+there would be a fight, and I remembered with regret that
+the President in early life had had a hobby of killing lions.
+But really I began to think that I had been mistaken, and that it
+was not the President after all. There was a confounding sincerity
+in the anger with which he declared that he was Farmer Bowles,
+and everybody knowed it. I appeased him eventually and parted
+from him at the door of his farmhouse, where he left me with a few
+tags of religion, which again raised my suspicions of his identity.
+In the coffee-room to which I returned there was an illustrated
+paper with a picture of President Kruger, and he and Farmer Bowles
+were as like as two peas. There was a picture also of a group
+of Outlander leaders, and the faces of them, leering and triumphant,
+were perhaps unduly darkened by the photograph, but they seemed
+to me like the faces of a distant and hostile people.
+
+I saw the old man once again on the fierce night of the poll,
+when he drove down our Liberal lines in a little cart ablaze
+with the blue Tory ribbons, for he was a man who would carry his
+colours everywhere. It was evening, and the warm western light was
+on the grey hair and heavy massive features of that good old man.
+I knew as one knows a fact of sense that if Spanish and German
+stockbrokers had flooded his farm or country he would
+have fought them for ever, not fiercely like an Irishman,
+but with the ponderous courage and ponderous cunning of the Boer.
+I knew that without seeing it, as certainly as I knew without
+seeing it that when he went into the polling room he put his
+cross against the Conservative name. Then he came out again,
+having given his vote and looking more like Kruger than ever.
+And at the same hour on the same night thousands upon thousands
+of English Krugers gave the same vote. And thus Kruger was
+pulled down and the dark-faced men in the photograph reigned
+in his stead.
+
+
+XX
+
+The Giant
+
+I sometimes fancy that every great city must have been built by night.
+At least, it is only at night that every part of a great city is great.
+All architecture is great architecture after sunset; perhaps
+architecture is really a nocturnal art, like the art of fireworks.
+At least, I think many people of those nobler trades that work
+by night (journalists, policemen, burglars, coffee-stall keepers,
+and such mistaken enthusiasts as refuse to go home till morning)
+must often have stood admiring some black bulk of building with a crown
+of battlements or a crest of spires and then burst into tears at
+daybreak to discover that it was only a haberdasher's shop with huge
+gold letters across the face of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had a sensation of this sort the other day as I happened to be
+wandering in the Temple Gardens towards the end of twilight.
+I sat down on a bench with my back to the river, happening to
+choose such a place that a huge angle and faade of building
+jutting out from the Strand sat above me like an incubus.
+I dare say that if I took the same seat to-morrow by daylight I
+should find the impression entirely false. In sunlight the thing
+might seem almost distant; but in that half-darkness it seemed
+as if the walls were almost falling upon me. Never before have I
+had so strongly the sense which makes people pessimists in politics,
+the sense of the hopeless height of the high places of the earth.
+That pile of wealth and power, whatever was its name, went up above
+and beyond me like a cliff that no living thing could climb.
+I had an irrational sense that this thing had to be fought, that I
+had to fight it; and that I could offer nothing to the occasion
+but an indolent journalist with a walking-stick.
+
+Almost as I had the thought, two windows were lit in that black,
+blind face. It was as if two eyes had opened in the huge
+face of a sleeping giant; the eyes were too close together,
+and gave it the suggestion of a bestial sneer. And either
+by accident of this light or of some other, I could now read
+the big letters which spaced themselves across the front;
+it was the Babylon Hotel. It was the perfect symbol of everything
+that I should like to pull down with my hands if I could.
+Reared by a detected robber, it is framed to be the fashionable
+and luxurious home of undetected robbers. In the house of man
+are many mansions; but there is a class of men who feel normal
+nowhere except in the Babylon Hotel or in Dartmoor Gaol.
+That big black face, which was staring at me with its flaming
+eyes too close together, that was indeed the giant of all epic
+and fairy tales. But, alas! I was not the giant-killer;
+the hour had come, but not the man. I sat down on the seat again
+(I had had one wild impulse to climb up the front of the hotel
+and fall in at one of the windows), and I tried to think,
+as all decent people are thinking, what one can really do.
+And all the time that oppressive wall went up in front of me,
+and took hold upon the heavens like a house of the gods.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is remarkable that in so many great wars it has been
+the defeated who have won. The people who were left
+worst at the end of the war were generally the people
+who were left best at the end of the whole business.
+For instance, the Crusades ended in the defeat of the Christians.
+But they did not end in the decline of the Christians;
+they ended in the decline of the Saracens. That huge prophetic wave
+of Moslem power which had hung in the very heavens above the towns
+of Christendom, that wave was broken, and never came on again.
+The Crusaders had saved Paris in the act of losing Jerusalem.
+The same applies to that epic of Republican war in the eighteenth
+century to which we Liberals owe our political creed.
+The French Revolution ended in defeat: the kings came back
+across a carpet of dead at Waterloo. The Revolution had
+lost its last battle; but it had gained its first object.
+It had cut a chasm. The world has never been the same since.
+No one after that has ever been able to treat the poor merely
+as a pavement.
+
+These jewels of God, the poor, are still treated as mere
+stones of the street; but as stones that may sometimes fly.
+If it please God, you and I may see some of the stones
+flying again before we see death. But here I only remark
+the interesting fact that the conquered almost always conquer.
+Sparta killed Athens with a final blow, and she was born again.
+Sparta went away victorious, and died slowly of her own wounds.
+The Boers lost the South African War and gained South Africa.
+
+And this is really all that we can do when we fight something really
+stronger than ourselves; we can deal it its death-wound one moment;
+it deals us death in the end. It is something if we can shock
+and jar the unthinking impetus and enormous innocence of evil;
+just as a pebble on a railway can stagger the Scotch express.
+It is enough for the great martyrs and criminals of the French revolution,
+that they have surprised for all time the secret weakness of the strong.
+They have awakened and set leaping and quivering in his crypt for ever
+the coward in the hearts of kings.
+
+. . . . .
+
+When Jack the Giant-Killer really first saw the giant his
+experience was not such as has been generally supposed.
+If you care to hear it I will tell you the real story of Jack
+the Giant-Killer. To begin with, the most awful thing which Jack
+first felt about the giant was that he was not a giant.
+He came striding across an interminable wooded plain, and against
+its remote horizon the giant was quite a small figure, like a figure
+in a picture--he seemed merely a man walking across the grass.
+Then Jack was shocked by remembering that the grass which the man
+was treading down was one of the tallest forests upon that plain.
+The man came nearer and nearer, growing bigger and bigger,
+and at the instant when he passed the possible stature of humanity
+Jack almost screamed. The rest was an intolerable apocalypse.
+
+The giant had the one frightful quality of a miracle;
+the more he became incredible the more he became solid.
+The less one could believe in him the more plainly one could see him.
+It was unbearable that so much of the sky should be occupied
+by one human face. His eyes, which had stood out like bow windows,
+became bigger yet, and there was no metaphor that could
+contain their bigness; yet still they were human eyes.
+Jack's intellect was utterly gone under that huge hypnotism
+of the face that filled the sky; his last hope was submerged,
+his five wits all still with terror.
+
+But there stood up in him still a kind of cold chivalry, a dignity of dead
+honour that would not forget the small and futile sword in his hand.
+He rushed at one of the colossal feet of this human tower, and when
+he came quite close to it the ankle-bone arched over him like a cave.
+Then he planted the point of his sword against the foot and leant on it
+with all his weight, till it went up to the hilt and broke the hilt,
+and then snapped just under it. And it was plain that the giant felt
+a sort of prick, for he snatched up his great foot into his great hand
+for an instant; and then, putting it down again, he bent over and stared
+at the ground until he had seen his enemy.
+
+Then he picked up Jack between a big finger and thumb and threw
+him away; and as Jack went through the air he felt as if he were
+flying from system to system through the universe of stars.
+But, as the giant had thrown him away carelessly, he did not strike
+a stone, but struck soft mire by the side of a distant river.
+There he lay insensible for several hours; but when he awoke again
+his horrible conqueror was still in sight. He was striding away
+across the void and wooded plain towards where it ended in the sea;
+and by this time he was only much higher than any of the hills.
+He grew less and less indeed; but only as a really high mountain
+grows at last less and less when we leave it in a railway train.
+Half an hour afterwards he was a bright blue colour, as are the
+distant hills; but his outline was still human and still gigantic.
+Then the big blue figure seemed to come to the brink of the big
+blue sea, and even as it did so it altered its attitude.
+Jack, stunned and bleeding, lifted himself laboriously upon one
+elbow to stare. The giant once more caught hold of his ankle,
+wavered twice as in a wind, and then went over into the great sea
+which washes the whole world, and which, alone of all things God
+has made, was big enough to drown him.
+
+
+XXI
+
+A Great Man
+
+People accuse journalism of being too personal; but to me it has
+always seemed far too impersonal. It is charged with tearing
+away the veils from private life; but it seems to me to be always
+dropping diaphanous but blinding veils between men and men.
+The Yellow Press is abused for exposing facts which are private;
+I wish the Yellow Press did anything so valuable. It is exactly
+the decisive individual touches that it never gives; and a proof of this
+is that after one has met a man a million times in the newspapers it
+is always a complete shock and reversal to meet him in real life.
+The Yellow Pressman seems to have no power of catching the first
+fresh fact about a man that dominates all after impressions.
+For instance, before I met Bernard Shaw I heard that he spoke with
+a reckless desire for paradox or a sneering hatred of sentiment;
+but I never knew till he opened his mouth that he spoke with
+an Irish accent, which is more important than all the other
+criticisms put together.
+
+Journalism is not personal enough. So far from digging out
+private personalities, it cannot even report the obvious personalities
+on the surface. Now there is one vivid and even bodily impression
+of this kind which we have all felt when we met great poets
+or politicians, but which never finds its way into the newspapers.
+I mean the impression that they are much older than we thought they were.
+We connect great men with their great triumphs, which generally
+happened some years ago, and many recruits enthusiastic for the thin
+Napoleon of Marengo must have found themselves in the presence
+of the fat Napoleon of Leipzic.
+
+I remember reading a newspaper account of how a certain rising politician
+confronted the House of Lords with the enthusiasm almost of boyhood.
+It described how his "brave young voice" rang in the rafters.
+I also remember that I met him some days after, and he was considerably
+older than my own father. I mention this truth for only one purpose:
+all this generalisation leads up to only one fact--the fact that I once
+met a great man who was younger than I expected.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had come over the wooded wall from the villages about Epsom, and down
+a stumbling path between trees towards the valley in which Dorking lies.
+A warm sunlight was working its way through the leafage; a sunlight
+which though of saintless gold had taken on the quality of evening.
+It was such sunlight as reminds a man that the sun begins to set
+an instant after noon. It seemed to lessen as the wood strengthened
+and the road sank.
+
+I had a sensation peculiar to such entangled descents;
+I felt that the treetops that closed above me were the fixed
+and real things, certain as the level of the sea; but that
+the solid earth was every instant failing under my feet.
+In a little while that splendid sunlight showed only in splashes,
+like flaming stars and suns in the dome of green sky.
+Around me in that emerald twilight were trunks of trees of every
+plain or twisted type; it was like a chapel supported on columns
+of every earthly and unearthly style of architecture.
+
+Without intention my mind grew full of fancies on the nature
+of the forest; on the whole philosophy of mystery and force.
+For the meaning of woods is the combination of energy with complexity.
+A forest is not in the least rude or barbarous; it is only dense
+with delicacy. Unique shapes that an artist would copy or a
+philosopher watch for years if he found them in an open plain are
+here mingled and confounded; but it is not a darkness of deformity.
+It is a darkness of life; a darkness of perfection. And I began
+to think how much of the highest human obscurity is like this,
+and how much men have misunderstood it. People will tell you,
+for instance, that theology became elaborate because it was dead.
+Believe me, if it had been dead it would never have become elaborate;
+it is only the live tree that grows too many branches.
+
+. . . . .
+
+These trees thinned and fell away from each other, and I came out
+into deep grass and a road. I remember being surprised that the
+evening was so far advanced; I had a fancy that this valley had a
+sunset all to itself. I went along that road according to directions
+that had been given me, and passed the gateway in a slight paling
+beyond which the wood changed only faintly to a garden.
+It was as if the curious courtesy and fineness of that character
+I was to meet went out from him upon the valley; for I felt
+on all these things the finger of that quality which the old
+English called "farie"; it is the quality which those can
+never understand who think of the past as merely brutal;
+it is an ancient elegance such as there is in trees.
+I went through the garden and saw an old man sitting by a table,
+looking smallish in his big chair. He was already an invalid,
+and his hair and beard were both white; not like snow, for snow
+is cold and heavy, but like something feathery, or even fierce;
+rather they were white like the white thistledown. I came up
+quite close to him; he looked at me as he put out his frail hand,
+and I saw of a sudden that his eyes were startlingly young.
+He was the one great man of the old world whom I have met
+who was not a mere statue over his own grave.
+
+He was deaf and he talked like a torrent. He did not talk about
+the books he had written; he was far too much alive for that.
+He talked about the books he had not written. He unrolled
+a purple bundle of romances which he had never had time to sell.
+He asked me to write one of the stories for him, as he would
+have asked the milkman, if he had been talking to the milkman.
+It was a splendid and frantic story, a sort of astronomical farce.
+It was all about a man who was rushing up to the Royal Society
+with the only possible way of avoiding an earth-destroying comet;
+and it showed how, even on this huge errand, the man was tripped
+up at every other minute by his own weakness and vanities;
+how he lost a train by trifling or was put in gaol for brawling.
+That is only one of them; there were ten or twenty more.
+Another, I dimly remember, was a version of the fall of Parnell;
+the idea that a quite honest man might be secret from a pure love
+of secrecy, of solitary self-control. I went out of that garden with a
+blurred sensation of the million possibilities of creative literature.
+The feeling increased as my way fell back into the wood; for a wood
+is a palace with a million corridors that cross each other everywhere.
+I really had the feeling that I had seen the creative quality;
+which is supernatural. I had seen what Virgil calls the Old Man
+of the Forest: I had seen an elf. The trees thronged behind my path;
+I have never seen him again; and now I shall not see him,
+because he died last Tuesday.
+
+
+XXII
+
+The Orthodox Barber
+
+Those thinkers who cannot believe in any gods often assert
+that the love of humanity would be in itself sufficient for them;
+and so, perhaps, it would, if they had it. There is a very real
+thing which may be called the love of humanity; in our time it
+exists almost entirely among what are called uneducated people;
+and it does not exist at all among the people who talk about it.
+
+A positive pleasure in being in the presence of any other human being
+is chiefly remarkable, for instance, in the masses on Bank Holiday;
+that is why they are so much nearer Heaven (despite appearances)
+than any other part of our population.
+
+I remember seeing a crowd of factory girls getting into an empty
+train at a wayside country station. There were about twenty of them;
+they all got into one carriage; and they left all the rest of the
+train entirely empty. That is the real love of humanity. That is
+the definite pleasure in the immediate proximity of one's own kind.
+Only this coarse, rank, real love of men seems to be entirely
+lacking in those who propose the love of humanity as a substitute
+for all other love; honourable, rationalistic idealists.
+
+I can well remember the explosion of human joy which marked
+the sudden starting of that train; all the factory girls
+who could not find seats (and they must have been the majority)
+relieving their feelings by jumping up and down. Now I have never
+seen any rationalistic idealists do this. I have never seen twenty
+modern philosophers crowd into one third-class carriage for the
+mere pleasure of being together. I have never seen twenty Mr.
+McCabes all in one carriage and all jumping up and down.
+
+Some people express a fear that vulgar trippers will overrun
+all beautiful places, such as Hampstead or Burnham Beeches.
+But their fear is unreasonable; because trippers always
+prefer to trip together; they pack as close as they can;
+they have a suffocating passion of philanthropy.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But among the minor and milder aspects of the same principle,
+I have no hesitation in placing the problem of the colloquial barber.
+Before any modern man talks with authority about loving men, I insist
+(I insist with violence) that he shall always be very much pleased
+when his barber tries to talk to him. His barber is humanity:
+let him love that. If he is not pleased at this, I will not accept any
+substitute in the way of interest in the Congo or the future of Japan.
+If a man cannot love his barber whom he has seen, how shall he love
+the Japanese whom he has not seen?
+
+It is urged against the barber that he begins by talking about
+the weather; so do all dukes and diplomatists, only that they talk about
+it with ostentatious fatigue and indifference, whereas the barber talks
+about it with an astonishing, nay incredible, freshness of interest.
+It is objected to him that he tells people that they are going bald.
+That is to say, his very virtues are cast up against him;
+he is blamed because, being a specialist, he is a sincere specialist,
+and because, being a tradesman, he is not entirely a slave.
+But the only proof of such things is by example; therefore I will prove
+the excellence of the conversation of barbers by a specific case.
+Lest any one should accuse me of attempting to prove it by fictitious
+means, I beg to say quite seriously that though I forget the exact
+language employed, the following conversation between me and a human
+(I trust), living barber really took place a few days ago.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I had been invited to some At Home to meet the Colonial Premiers,
+and lest I should be mistaken for some partly reformed bush-ranger out of
+the interior of Australia I went into a shop in the Strand to get shaved.
+While I was undergoing the torture the man said to me:
+
+"There seems to be a lot in the papers about this new shaving, sir.
+It seems you can shave yourself with anything--with a stick or a stone
+or a pole or a poker" (here I began for the first time to detect
+a sarcastic intonation) "or a shovel or a----"
+
+Here he hesitated for a word, and I, although I knew nothing about
+the matter, helped him out with suggestions in the same rhetorical vein.
+
+"Or a button-hook," I said, "or a blunderbuss or a battering-ram
+or a piston-rod----"
+
+He resumed, refreshed with this assistance, "Or a curtain rod
+or a candle-stick, or a----"
+
+"Cow-catcher," I suggested eagerly, and we continued in this ecstatic duet
+for some time. Then I asked him what it was all about, and he told me.
+He explained the thing eloquently and at length.
+
+"The funny part of it is," he said, "that the thing isn't new at all.
+It's been talked about ever since I was a boy, and long before.
+There is always a notion that the razor might be done without somehow.
+But none of those schemes ever came to anything; and I don't believe
+myself that this will."
+
+"Why, as to that," I said, rising slowly from the chair and trying
+to put on my coat inside out, "I don't know how it may be in the case
+of you and your new shaving. Shaving, with all respect to you,
+is a trivial and materialistic thing, and in such things
+startling inventions are sometimes made. But what you say
+reminds me in some dark and dreamy fashion of something else.
+I recall it especially when you tell me, with such evident
+experience and sincerity, that the new shaving is not really new.
+My friend, the human race is always trying this dodge of making
+everything entirely easy; but the difficulty which it shifts off
+one thing it shifts on to another. If one man has not the toil
+of preparing a man's chin, I suppose that some other man has the toil
+of preparing something very curious to put on a man's chin.
+It would be nice if we could be shaved without troubling anybody.
+It would be nicer still if we could go unshaved without annoying anybody--
+
+ "'But, O wise friend, chief Barber of the Strand,
+ Brother, nor you nor I have made the world.'
+
+"Whoever made it, who is wiser, and we hope better than we, made it
+under strange limitations, and with painful conditions of pleasure.
+
+"In the first and darkest of its books it is fiercely written
+that a man shall not eat his cake and have it; and though
+all men talked until the stars were old it would still be true
+that a man who has lost his razor could not shave with it.
+But every now and then men jump up with the new something
+or other and say that everything can be had without sacrifice,
+that bad is good if you are only enlightened, and that there
+is no real difference between being shaved and not being shaved.
+The difference, they say, is only a difference of degree;
+everything is evolutionary and relative. Shavedness is
+immanent in man. Every ten-penny nail is a Potential Razor.
+The superstitious people of the past (they say) believed that
+a lot of black bristles standing out at right angles to one's
+face was a positive affair. But the higher criticism teaches
+us better. Bristles are merely negative. They are a Shadow
+where Shaving should be.
+
+"Well, it all goes on, and I suppose it all means something.
+But a baby is the Kingdom of God, and if you try to kiss a baby
+he will know whether you are shaved or not. Perhaps I am mixing
+up being shaved and being saved; my democratic sympathies have
+always led me to drop my 'h's.' In another moment I may suggest
+that goats represent the lost because goats have long beards.
+This is growing altogether too allegorical.
+
+"Nevertheless," I added, as I paid the bill, "I have really been
+profoundly interested in what you told me about the New Shaving.
+Have you ever heard of a thing called the New theology?"
+
+He smiled and said that he had not.
+
+
+XXIII
+
+The Toy Theatre
+
+There is only one reason why all grown-up people do not play with toys;
+and it is a fair reason. The reason is that playing with toys
+takes so very much more time and trouble than anything else.
+Playing as children mean playing is the most serious thing in the world;
+and as soon as we have small duties or small sorrows we have to
+abandon to some extent so enormous and ambitious a plan of life.
+We have enough strength for politics and commerce and art and philosophy;
+we have not enough strength for play. This is a truth which every one
+will recognize who, as a child, has ever played with anything at all;
+any one who has played with bricks, any one who has played with dolls,
+any one who has played with tin soldiers. My journalistic work,
+which earns money, is not pursued with such awful persistency as that
+work which earned nothing.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Take the case of bricks. If you publish a book to-morrow
+in twelve volumes (it would be just like you) on "The Theory
+and Practice of European Architecture," your work may be laborious,
+but it is fundamentally frivolous. It is not serious as the work
+of a child piling one brick on the other is serious; for the simple
+reason that if your book is a bad book no one will ever be able
+ultimately and entirely to prove to you that it is a bad book.
+Whereas if his balance of bricks is a bad balance of bricks,
+it will simply tumble down. And if I know anything of children,
+he will set to work solemnly and sadly to build it up again.
+Whereas, if I know anything of authors, nothing would induce you
+to write your book again, or even to think of it again if you
+could help it.
+
+Take the case of dolls. It is much easier to care for an educational
+cause than to care for a doll. It is as easy to write an article on
+education as to write an article on toffee or tramcars or anything else.
+But it is almost as difficult to look after a doll as to look after
+a child. The little girls that I meet in the little streets of Battersea
+worship their dolls in a way that reminds one not so much of play
+as idolatry. In some cases the love and care of the artistic symbol
+has actually become more important than the human reality which it was,
+I suppose, originally meant to symbolize.
+
+I remember a Battersea little girl who wheeled her large baby sister
+stuffed into a doll's perambulator. When questioned on this course of
+conduct, she replied: "I haven't got a dolly, and Baby is pretending
+to be my dolly." Nature was indeed imitating art. First a doll had
+been a substitute for a child; afterwards a child was a mere substitute
+for a doll. But that opens other matters; the point is here that such
+devotion takes up most of the brain and most of the life; much as if
+it were really the thing which it is supposed to symbolize. The point
+is that the man writing on motherhood is merely an educationalist;
+the child playing with a doll is a mother.
+
+Take the case of soldiers. A man writing an article on military strategy
+is simply a man writing an article; a horrid sight. But a boy making a
+campaign with tin soldiers is like a General making a campaign with live
+soldiers. He must to the limit of his juvenile powers think about the
+thing; whereas the war correspondent need not think at all. I remember
+a war correspondent who remarked after the capture of Methuen: "This
+renewed activity on the part of Delarey is probably due to his being
+short of stores." The same military critic had mentioned a few
+paragraphs before that Delarey was being hard pressed by a column which
+was pursuing him under the command of Methuen. Methuen chased Delarey;
+and Delarey's activity was due to his being short of stores.
+Otherwise he would have stood quite still while he was chased.
+I run after Jones with a hatchet, and if he turns round and tries
+to get rid of me the only possible explanation is that he has
+a very small balance at his bankers. I cannot believe that any boy
+playing at soldiers would be as idiotic as this. But then any one
+playing at anything has to be serious. Whereas, as I have only too
+good reason to know, if you are writing an article you can say anything
+that comes into your head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Broadly, then, what keeps adults from joining in children's
+games is, generally speaking, not that they have no pleasure
+in them; it is simply that they have no leisure for them.
+It is that they cannot afford the expenditure of toil
+and time and consideration for so grand and grave a scheme.
+I have been myself attempting for some time past to complete
+a play in a small toy theatre, the sort of toy theatre
+that used to be called Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured;
+only that I drew and coloured the figures and scenes myself.
+Hence I was free from the degrading obligation of having to pay
+either a penny or twopence; I only had to pay a shilling a sheet
+for good cardboard and a shilling a box for bad water colours.
+The kind of miniature stage I mean is probably familiar to every one;
+it is never more than a development of the stage which Skelt
+made and Stevenson celebrated.
+
+But though I have worked much harder at the toy theatre than I
+ever worked at any tale or article, I cannot finish it; the work
+seems too heavy for me. I have to break off and betake myself
+to lighter employments; such as the biographies of great men.
+The play of "St. George and the Dragon," over which I have burnt
+the midnight oil (you must colour the thing by lamplight because
+that is how it will be seen), still lacks most conspicuously,
+alas! two wings of the Sultan's Palace, and also some comprehensible
+and workable way of getting up the curtain.
+
+All this gives me a feeling touching the real meaning of immortality.
+In this world we cannot have pure pleasure. This is partly because
+pure pleasure would be dangerous to us and to our neighbours.
+But it is partly because pure pleasure is a great deal too much trouble.
+If I am ever in any other and better world, I hope that I shall have
+enough time to play with nothing but toy theatres; and I hope that I
+shall have enough divine and superhuman energy to act at least one play
+in them without a hitch.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Meanwhile the philosophy of toy theatres is worth any one's
+consideration. All the essential morals which modern men need
+to learn could be deduced from this toy. Artistically considered,
+it reminds us of the main principle of art, the principle which
+is in most danger of being forgotten in our time. I mean the fact
+that art consists of limitation; the fact that art is limitation.
+Art does not consist in expanding things. Art consists of cutting
+things down, as I cut down with a pair of scissors my very ugly
+figures of St. George and the Dragon. Plato, who liked definite
+ideas, would like my cardboard dragon; for though the creature has
+few other artistic merits he is at least dragonish. The modern
+philosopher, who likes infinity, is quite welcome to a sheet of
+the plain cardboard. The most artistic thing about the theatrical
+art is the fact that the spectator looks at the whole thing through
+a window. This is true even of theatres inferior to my own; even at
+the Court Theatre or His Majesty's you are looking through a window;
+an unusually large window. But the advantage of the small
+theatre exactly is that you are looking through a small window.
+Has not every one noticed how sweet and startling any
+landscape looks when seen through an arch? This strong,
+square shape, this shutting off of everything else is not
+only an assistance to beauty; it is the essential of beauty.
+The most beautiful part of every picture is the frame.
+
+This especially is true of the toy theatre; that, by reducing
+the scale of events it can introduce much larger events.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the earthquake in Jamaica.
+Because it is small it could easily represent the Day of Judgment.
+Exactly in so far as it is limited, so far it could play easily
+with falling cities or with falling stars. Meanwhile the big
+theatres are obliged to be economical because they are big.
+When we have understood this fact we shall have understood something
+of the reason why the world has always been first inspired by
+small nationalities. The vast Greek philosophy could fit easier
+into the small city of Athens than into the immense Empire of Persia.
+In the narrow streets of Florence Dante felt that there was room
+for Purgatory and Heaven and Hell. He would have been stifled
+by the British Empire. Great empires are necessarily prosaic;
+for it is beyond human power to act a great poem upon so great a scale.
+You can only represent very big ideas in very small spaces.
+My toy theatre is as philosophical as the drama of Athens.
+
+
+XXIV
+
+A Tragedy of Twopence
+
+My relations with the readers of this page have been
+long and pleasant, but--perhaps for that very reason--
+I feel that the time has come when I ought to confess
+the one great crime of my life. It happened a long time ago;
+but it is not uncommon for a belated burst of remorse
+to reveal such dark episodes long after they have occurred.
+It has nothing to do with the orgies of the Anti-Puritan League.
+That body is so offensively respectable that a newspaper,
+in describing it the other day, referred to my friend
+Mr. Edgar Jepson as Canon Edgar Jepson; and it is believed
+that similar titles are intended for all of us. No; it is
+not by the conduct of Archbishop Crane, of Dean Chesterton,
+of the Rev. James Douglas, of Monsignor Bland, and even of that
+fine and virile old ecclesiastic, Cardinal Nesbit, that I wish
+(or rather, am driven by my conscience) to make this declaration.
+The crime was committed in solitude and without accomplices.
+Alone I did it. Let me, with the characteristic thirst
+of penitents to get the worst of the confession over, state it
+first of all in its most dreadful and indefensible form.
+There is at the present moment in a town in Germany (unless he
+has died of rage on discovering his wrong), a restaurant-keeper
+to whom I still owe twopence. I last left his open-air restaurant
+knowing that I owed him twopence. I carried it away under his
+nose, despite the fact that the nose was a decidedly Jewish one.
+I have never paid him, and it is highly improbable that I ever shall.
+How did this villainy come to occur in a life which has been,
+generally speaking, deficient in the dexterity necessary for fraud?
+The story is as follows--and it has a moral, though there
+may not be room for that.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It is a fair general rule for those travelling on the Continent that
+the easiest way of talking in a foreign language is to talk philosophy.
+The most difficult kind of talking is to talk about common necessities.
+The reason is obvious. The names of common necessities vary completely
+with each nation and are generally somewhat odd and quaint.
+How, for instance, could a Frenchman suppose that a coalbox would
+be called a "scuttle"? If he has ever seen the word scuttle
+it has been in the Jingo Press, where the "policy of scuttle"
+is used whenever we give up something to a small Power like Liberals,
+instead of giving up everything to a great Power, like Imperialists.
+What Englishman in Germany would be poet enough to guess that the Germans
+call a glove a "hand-shoe." Nations name their necessities by nicknames,
+so to speak. They call their tubs and stools by quaint, elvish,
+and almost affectionate names, as if they were their own children!
+But any one can argue about abstract things in a foreign language who has
+ever got as far as Exercise IV. in a primer. For as soon as he can
+put a sentence together at all he finds that the words used in abstract
+or philosophical discussions are almost the same in all nations.
+They are the same, for the simple reason that they all come
+from the things that were the roots of our common civilisation.
+From Christianity, from the Roman Empire, from the mediaeval Church,
+or the French Revolution. "Nation," "citizen," "religion," "philosophy,"
+"authority," "the Republic," words like these are nearly the same
+in all the countries in which we travel. Restrain, therefore,
+your exuberant admiration for the young man who can argue with six
+French atheists when he first lands at Dieppe. Even I can do that.
+But very likely the same young man does not know the French for a
+shoe-horn. But to this generalisation there are three great exceptions.
+(1) In the case of countries that are not European at all, and have
+never had our civic conceptions, or the old Latin scholarship.
+I do not pretend that the Patagonian phrase for "citizenship"
+at once leaps to the mind, or that a Dyak's word for "the Republic"
+has been familiar to me from the nursery. (2) In the case of Germany,
+where, although the principle does apply to many words such as "nation"
+and "philosophy," it does not apply so generally, because Germany
+has had a special and deliberate policy of encouraging the purely
+German part of its language. (3) In the case where one does not know
+any of the language at all, as is generally the case with me.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Such at least was my situation on the dark day on which I committed
+my crime. Two of the exceptional conditions which I have mentioned
+were combined. I was walking about a German town, and I knew no German.
+I knew, however, two or three of those great and solemn words which
+hold our European civilisation together--one of which is "cigar."
+As it was a hot and dreamy day, I sat down at a table in a sort
+of beer-garden, and ordered a cigar and a pot of lager. I drank the
+lager, and paid for it. I smoked the cigar, forgot to pay for it,
+and walked away, gazing rapturously at the royal outline of the
+Taunus mountains. After about ten minutes, I suddenly remembered
+that I had not paid for the cigar. I went back to the place of
+refreshment, and put down the money. But the proprietor also had
+forgotten the cigar, and he merely said guttural things in a tone
+of query, asking me, I suppose, what I wanted. I said "cigar," and
+he gave me a cigar. I endeavoured while putting down the money to
+wave away the cigar with gestures of refusal. He thought that my
+rejection was of the nature of a condemnation of that particular cigar,
+and brought me another. I whirled my arms like a windmill,
+seeking to convey by the sweeping universality of my gesture
+that my rejection was a rejection of cigars in general,
+not of that particular article. He mistook this for the ordinary
+impatience of common men, and rushed forward, his hands
+filled with miscellaneous cigars, pressing them upon me.
+In desperation I tried other kinds of pantomime, but the more
+cigars I refused the more and more rare and precious cigars
+were brought out of the deeps and recesses of the establishment.
+I tried in vain to think of a way of conveying to him the fact
+that I had already had the cigar. I imitated the action
+of a citizen smoking, knocking off and throwing away a cigar.
+The watchful proprietor only thought I was rehearsing
+(as in an ecstasy of anticipation) the joys of the cigar
+he was going to give me. At last I retired baffled:
+he would not take the money and leave the cigars alone.
+So that this restaurant-keeper (in whose face a love of money
+shone like the sun at noonday) flatly and firmly refused
+to receive the twopence that I certainly owed him; and I took
+that twopence of his away with me and rioted on it for months.
+I hope that on the last day the angels will break the truth
+very gently to that unhappy man.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the true and exact account of the Great Cigar Fraud,
+and the moral of it is this--that civilisation is founded
+upon abstractions. The idea of debt is one which cannot be conveyed
+by physical motions at all, because it is an abstract idea.
+And civilisation obviously would be nothing without debt.
+So when hard-headed fellows who study scientific sociology
+(which does not exist) come and tell you that civilisation
+is material or indifferent to the abstract, just ask yourselves
+how many of the things that make up our Society, the Law,
+or the Stocks and Shares, or the National Debt, you would be
+able to convey with your face and your ten fingers by grinning
+and gesticulating to a German innkeeper.
+
+
+XXV
+
+A Cab Ride Across Country
+
+Sown somewhere far off in the shallow dales of Hertfordshire there
+lies a village of great beauty, and I doubt not of admirable virtue,
+but of eccentric and unbalanced literary taste, which asked the present
+writer to come down to it on Sunday afternoon and give an address.
+
+Now it was very difficult to get down to it at all on Sunday afternoon,
+owing to the indescribable state into which our national laws
+and customs have fallen in connection with the seventh day.
+It is not Puritanism; it is simply anarchy. I should have some
+sympathy with the Jewish Sabbath, if it were a Jewish Sabbath,
+and that for three reasons; first, that religion is an intrinsically
+sympathetic thing; second, that I cannot conceive any religion
+worth calling a religion without a fixed and material observance;
+and third, that the particular observance of sitting still and doing
+no work is one that suits my temperament down to the ground.
+
+But the absurdity of the modern English convention is that it
+does not let a man sit still; it only perpetually trips him
+up when it has forced him to walk about. Our Sabbatarianism
+does not forbid us to ask a man in Battersea to come and talk
+in Hertfordshire; it only prevents his getting there.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with joys,
+with flowers, and fireworks in the old European style.
+I can understand that a deity might be worshipped with sorrows.
+But I cannot imagine any deity being worshipped with inconveniences.
+Let the good Moslem go to Mecca, or let him abide in his tent,
+according to his feelings for religious symbols. But surely Allah
+cannot see anything particularly dignified in his servant being
+misled by the time-table, finding that the old Mecca express is
+not running, missing his connection at Bagdad, or having to wait
+three hours in a small side station outside Damascus.
+
+So it was with me on this occasion. I found there was no telegraph
+service at all to this place; I found there was only one weak
+thread of train-service. Now if this had been the authority
+of real English religion, I should have submitted to it at once.
+If I believed that the telegraph clerk could not send the telegram
+because he was at that moment rigid in an ecstasy of prayer,
+I should think all telegrams unimportant in comparison.
+If I could believe that railway porters when relieved from their
+duties rushed with passion to the nearest place of worship,
+I should say that all lectures and everything else ought
+to give way to such a consideration. I should not complain
+if the national faith forbade me to make any appointments
+of labour or self-expression on the Sabbath. But, as it is,
+it only tells me that I may very probably keep the Sabbath
+by not keeping the appointment.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But I must resume the real details of my tale. I found that there
+was only one train in the whole of that Sunday by which I could
+even get within several hours or several miles of the time or place.
+I therefore went to the telephone, which is one of my
+favourite toys, and down which I have shouted many valuable,
+but prematurely arrested, monologues upon art and morals.
+I remember a mild shock of surprise when I discovered that one
+could use the telephone on Sunday; I did not expect it to be
+cut off, but I expected it to buzz more than on ordinary days,
+to the advancement of our national religion. Through this instrument,
+in fewer words than usual, and with a comparative economy of epigram,
+I ordered a taxi-cab to take me to the railway station.
+I have not a word to say in general either against telephones
+or taxi-cabs; they seem to me two of the purest and most
+poetic of the creations of modern scientific civilisation.
+Unfortunately, when the taxi-cab started, it did exactly
+what modern scientific civilisation has done--it broke down.
+The result of this was that when I arrived at King's Cross my
+only train was gone; there was a Sabbath calm in the station,
+a calm in the eyes of the porters, and in my breast, if calm
+at all, if any calm, a calm despair.
+
+There was not, however, very much calm of any sort in my
+breast on first making the discovery; and it was turned
+to blinding horror when I learnt that I could not even send
+a telegram to the organisers of the meeting. To leave
+my entertainers in the lurch was sufficiently exasperating;
+to leave them without any intimation was simply low.
+I reasoned with the official. I said: "Do you really mean
+to say that if my brother were dying and my mother in this place,
+I could not communicate with her?" He was a man of literal
+and laborious mind; he asked me if my brother was dying.
+I answered that he was in excellent and even offensive health,
+but that I was inquiring upon a question of principle.
+What would happen if England were invaded, or if I
+alone knew how to turn aside a comet or an earthquake.
+He waved away these hypotheses in the most irresponsible spirit,
+but he was quite certain that telegrams could not reach this
+particular village. Then something exploded in me; that element
+of the outrageous which is the mother of all adventures sprang
+up ungovernable, and I decided that I would not be a cad merely
+because some of my remote ancestors had been Calvinists.
+I would keep my appointment if I lost all my money and all my wits.
+I went out into the quiet London street, where my quiet London
+cab was still waiting for its fare in the cold misty morning.
+I placed myself comfortably in the London cab and told the London
+driver to drive me to the other end of Hertfordshire.
+And he did.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I shall not forget that drive. It was doubtful weather, even in
+a motor-cab, the thing was possible with any consideration for the driver,
+not to speak of some slight consideration for the people in the road.
+I urged the driver to eat and drink something before he started,
+but he said (with I know not what pride of profession or delicate
+sense of adventure) that he would rather do it when we arrived--
+if we ever did. I was by no means so delicate; I bought
+a varied selection of pork-pies at a little shop that was open
+(why was that shop open?--it is all a mystery), and ate them
+as we went along. The beginning was sombre and irritating.
+I was annoyed, not with people, but with things, like a baby;
+with the motor for breaking down and with Sunday for being Sunday.
+And the sight of the northern slums expanded and ennobled, but did
+not decrease, my gloom: Whitechapel has an Oriental gaudiness
+in its squalor; Battersea and Camberwell have an indescribable
+bustle of democracy; but the poor parts of North London . . . well,
+perhaps I saw them wrongly under that ashen morning and on
+that foolish errand.
+
+It was one of those days which more than once this year broke
+the retreat of winter; a winter day that began too late to be spring.
+We were already clear of the obstructing crowds and quickening our pace
+through a borderland of market gardens and isolated public-houses,
+when the grey showed golden patches and a good light began
+to glitter on everything. The cab went quicker and quicker.
+The open land whirled wider and wider; but I did not lose my sense of
+being battled with and thwarted that I had felt in the thronged slums.
+Rather the feeling increased, because of the great difficulty
+of space and time. The faster went the car, the fiercer and thicker
+I felt the fight.
+
+The whole landscape seemed charging at me--and just missing me.
+The tall, shining grass went by like showers of arrows;
+the very trees seemed like lances hurled at my heart, and shaving
+it by a hair's breadth. Across some vast, smooth valley I saw
+a beech-tree by the white road stand up little and defiant.
+It grew bigger and bigger with blinding rapidity. It charged me
+like a tilting knight, seemed to hack at my head, and pass by.
+Sometimes when we went round a curve of road, the effect was yet
+more awful. It seemed as if some tree or windmill swung round
+to smite like a boomerang. The sun by this time was a blazing fact;
+and I saw that all Nature is chivalrous and militant.
+We do wrong to seek peace in Nature; we should rather seek
+the nobler sort of war; and see all the trees as green banners.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I gave my address, arriving just when everybody was deciding to leave.
+When my cab came reeling into the market-place they decided,
+with evident disappointment, to remain. Over the lecture I draw
+a veil. When I came back home I was called to the telephone,
+and a meek voice expressed regret for the failure of the motor-cab,
+and even said something about any reasonable payment.
+"Whom can I pay for my own superb experience? What is
+the usual charge for seeing the clouds shattered by the sun?
+What is the market price of a tree blue on the sky-line
+and then blinding white in the sun? Mention your price for
+that windmill that stood behind the hollyhocks in the garden.
+Let me pay you for . . ." Here it was, I think, that we
+were cut off.
+
+
+XXVI
+
+The Two Noises
+
+For three days and three nights the sea had charged England
+as Napoleon charged her at Waterloo. The phrase is instinctive,
+because away to the last grey line of the sea there was only the look
+of galloping squadrons, impetuous, but with a common purpose.
+The sea came on like cavalry, and when it touched the shore it
+opened the blazing eyes and deafening tongues of the artillery.
+I saw the worst assault at night on a seaside parade where the sea
+smote on the doors of England with the hammers of earthquake,
+and a white smoke went up into the black heavens. There one
+could thoroughly realise what an awful thing a wave really is.
+I talk like other people about the rushing swiftness of a wave.
+But the horrible thing about a wave is its hideous slowness.
+It lifts its load of water laboriously: in that style at once
+slow and slippery in which a Titan might lift a load of rock
+and then let it slip at last to be shattered into shock of dust.
+In front of me that night the waves were not like water:
+they were like falling city walls. The breaker rose first as if it
+did not wish to attack the earth; it wished only to attack the stars.
+For a time it stood up in the air as naturally as a tower; then it went
+a little wrong in its outline, like a tower that might some day fall.
+When it fell it was as if a powder magazine blew up.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I have never seen such a sea. All the time there blew across
+the land one of those stiff and throttling winds that one can
+lean up against like a wall. One expected anything to be blown
+out of shape at any instant; the lamp-post to be snapped
+like a green stalk, the tree to be whirled away like a straw.
+I myself should certainly have been blown out of shape if I had
+possessed any shape to be blown out of; for I walked along the edge
+of the stone embankment above the black and battering sea and could
+not rid myself of the idea that it was an invasion of England.
+But as I walked along this edge I was somewhat surprised
+to find that as I neared a certain spot another noise mingled
+with the ceaseless cannonade of the sea.
+
+Somewhere at the back, in some pleasure ground or casino
+or place of entertainment, an undaunted brass band was playing
+against the cosmic uproar. I do not know what band it was.
+Judging from the boisterous British Imperialism of most
+of the airs it played, I should think it was a German band.
+But there was no doubt about its energy, and when I came quite
+close under it it really drowned the storm. It was playing such
+things as "Tommy Atkins" and "You Can Depend on Young Australia,"
+and many others of which I do not know the words, but I should
+think they would be "John, Pat, and Mac, With the Union Jack,"
+or that fine though unwritten poem, "Wait till the Bull Dog
+gets a bite of you." Now, I for one detest Imperialism,
+but I have a great deal of sympathy with Jingoism.
+And there seemed something so touching about this unbroken
+and innocent bragging under the brutal menace of Nature
+that it made, if I may so put it, two tunes in my mind.
+It is so obvious and so jolly to be optimistic about England,
+especially when you are an optimist--and an Englishman.
+But through all that glorious brass came the voice
+of the invasion, the undertone of that awful sea.
+I did a foolish thing. As I could not express my meaning
+in an article, I tried to express it in a poem--a bad one.
+You can call it what you like. It might be called "Doubt,"
+or "Brighton." It might be called "The Patriot," or yet
+again "The German Band." I would call it "The Two Voices,"
+but that title has been taken for a grossly inferior poem.
+This is how it began--
+
+ "They say the sun is on your knees
+ A lamp to light your lands from harm,
+ They say you turn the seven seas
+ To little brooks about your farm.
+ I hear the sea and the new song
+ that calls you empress all day long.
+
+ "(O fallen and fouled! O you that lie
+ Dying in swamps--you shall not die,
+ Your rich have secrets, and stronge lust,
+ Your poor are chased about like dust,
+ Emptied of anger and surprise--
+ And God has gone out of their eyes,
+ Your cohorts break--your captains lie,
+ I say to you, you shall not die.)"
+
+Then I revived a little, remembering that after all there
+is an English country that the Imperialists have never found.
+The British Empire may annex what it likes, it will never annex England.
+It has not even discovered the island, let alone conquered it.
+I took up the two tunes again with a greater sympathy for the first--
+
+ "I know the bright baptismal rains,
+ I love your tender troubled skies,
+ I know your little climbing lanes,
+ Are peering into Paradise,
+ From open hearth to orchard cool,
+ How bountiful and beautiful.
+
+ "(O throttled and without a cry,
+ O strangled and stabbed, you shall not die,
+ The frightful word is on your walls,
+ The east sea to the west sea calls,
+ The stars are dying in the sky,
+ You shall not die; you shall not die.)"
+
+Then the two great noises grew deafening together, the noise of the
+peril of England and the louder noise of the placidity of England.
+It is their fault if the last verse was written a little rudely
+and at random--
+
+ "I see you how you smile in state
+ Straight from the Peak to Plymouth Bar,
+ You need not tell me you are great,
+ I know how more than great you are.
+ I know what William Shakespeare was,
+ I have seen Gainsborough and the grass.
+
+ "(O given to believe a lie,
+ O my mad mother, do do not die,
+ Whose eyes turn all ways but within,
+ Whose sin is innocence of sin,
+ Whose eyes, blinded with beams at noon,
+ Can see the motes upon the moon,
+ You shall your lover still pursue.
+ To what last madhouse shelters you
+ I will uphold you, even I.
+ You that are dead. You shall not die.)"
+
+But the sea would not stop for me any more than for Canute;
+and as for the German band, that would not stop for anybody.
+
+
+XXVII
+
+Some Policemen and a Moral
+
+The other day I was nearly arrested by two excited policemen in a wood
+in Yorkshire. I was on a holiday, and was engaged in that rich and
+intricate mass of pleasures, duties, and discoveries which for the keeping
+off of the profane, we disguise by the exoteric name of Nothing.
+At the moment in question I was throwing a big Swedish knife at
+a tree, practising (alas, without success) that useful trick of
+knife-throwing by which men murder each other in Stevenson's romances.
+
+Suddenly the forest was full of two policemen; there was something
+about their appearance in and relation to the greenwood that
+reminded me, I know not how, of some happy Elizabethan comedy.
+They asked what the knife was, who I was, why I was throwing it,
+what my address was, trade, religion, opinions on the Japanese war,
+name of favourite cat, and so on. They also said I was damaging the tree;
+which was, I am sorry to say, not true, because I could not hit it.
+The peculiar philosophical importance, however, of the incident was this.
+After some half-hour's animated conversation, the exhibition of
+an envelope, an unfinished poem, which was read with great care, and,
+I trust, with some profit, and one or two other subtle detective strokes,
+the elder of the two knights became convinced that I really was what I
+professed to be, that I was a journalist, that I was on the DAILY NEWS
+(this was the real stroke; they were shaken with a terror common
+to all tyrants), that I lived in a particular place as stated,
+and that I was stopping with particular people in Yorkshire,
+who happened to be wealthy and well-known in the neighbourhood.
+
+In fact the leading constable became so genial and complimentary
+at last that he ended up by representing himself as a reader
+of my work. And when that was said, everything was settled.
+They acquitted me and let me pass.
+
+"But," I said, "what of this mangled tree? It was to the rescue
+of that Dryad, tethered to the earth, that you rushed like
+knight-errants. You, the higher humanitarians, are not deceived
+by the seeming stillness of the green things, a stillness like
+the stillness of the cataract, a headlong and crashing silence.
+You know that a tree is but a creature tied to the ground by one leg.
+You will not let assassins with their Swedish daggers shed the green
+blood of such a being. But if so, why am I not in custody;
+where are my gyves? Produce, from some portion of your persons,
+my mouldy straw and my grated window. The facts of which I have just
+convinced you, that my name is Chesterton, that I am a journalist,
+that I am living with the well-known and philanthropic Mr. Blank
+of Ilkley, cannot have anything to do with the question of whether
+I have been guilty of cruelty to vegetables. The tree is none
+the less damaged even though it may reflect with a dark pride that it
+was wounded by a gentleman connected with the Liberal press.
+Wounds in the bark do not more rapidly close up because they are
+inflicted by people who are stopping with Mr. Blank of Ilkley.
+That tree, the ruin of its former self, the wreck of what was once
+a giant of the forest, now splintered and laid low by the brute
+superiority of a Swedish knife, that tragedy, constable, cannot be wiped
+out even by stopping for several months more with some wealthy person.
+It is incredible that you have no legal claim to arrest
+even the most august and fashionable persons on this charge.
+For if so, why did you interfere with me at all?"
+
+I made the later and larger part of this speech to the silent wood,
+for the two policemen had vanished almost as quickly as they came.
+It is very possible, of course, that they were fairies.
+In that case the somewhat illogical character of their view
+of crime, law, and personal responsibility would find a bright
+and elfish explanation; perhaps if I had lingered in the glade
+till moonrise I might have seen rings of tiny policemen
+dancing on the sward; or running about with glow-worm belts,
+arresting grasshoppers for damaging blades of grass.
+But taking the bolder hypothesis, that they really were policemen,
+I find myself in a certain difficulty. I was certainly
+accused of something which was either an offence or was not.
+I was let off because I proved I was a guest at a big house.
+The inference seems painfully clear; either it is not
+a proof of infamy to throw a knife about in a lonely wood,
+or else it is a proof of innocence to know a rich man.
+Suppose a very poor person, poorer even than a journalist,
+a navvy or unskilled labourer, tramping in search of work,
+often changing his lodgings, often, perhaps, failing in his rent.
+Suppose he had been intoxicated with the green gaiety
+of the ancient wood. Suppose he had thrown knives at trees
+and could give no description of a dwelling-place except
+that he had been fired out of the last. As I walked home
+through a cloudy and purple twilight I wondered how he would
+have got on.
+
+Moral. We English are always boasting that we are very illogical;
+there is no great harm in that. There is no subtle spiritual evil
+in the fact that people always brag about their vices; it is when they
+begin to brag about their virtues that they become insufferable.
+But there is this to be said, that illogicality in your constitution
+or your legal methods may become very dangerous if there happens to be
+some great national vice or national temptation which many take advantage
+of the chaos. Similarly, a drunkard ought to have strict rules and hours;
+a temperate man may obey his instincts.
+
+Take some absurd anomaly in the British law--the fact, for instance,
+that a man ceasing to be an M. P. has to become Steward of the
+Chiltern Hundreds, an office which I believe was intended originally
+to keep down some wild robbers near Chiltern, wherever that is.
+Obviously this kind of illogicality does not matter very much,
+for the simple reason that there is no great temptation to take
+advantage of it. Men retiring from Parliament do not have any
+furious impulse to hunt robbers in the hills. But if there were
+a real danger that wise, white-haired, venerable politicians taking
+leave of public life would desire to do this (if, for instance,
+there were any money in it), then clearly, if we went on saying
+that the illogicality did not matter, when (as a matter of fact)
+Sir Michael Hicks-Beach was hanging Chiltern shop-keepers every day
+and taking their property, we should be very silly. The illogicality
+would matter, for it would have become an excuse for indulgence.
+It is only the very good who can live riotous lives.
+
+Now this is exactly what is present in cases of police investigation
+such as the one narrated above. There enters into such things a great
+national sin, a far greater sin than drink--the habit of respecting a
+gentleman. Snobbishness has, like drink, a kind of grand poetry.
+And snobbishness has this peculiar and devilish quality of evil,
+that it is rampant among very kindly people, with open hearts
+and houses. But it is our great English vice; to be watched
+more fiercely than small-pox. If a man wished to hear the worst
+and wickedest thing in England summed up in casual English words,
+he would not find it in any foul oaths or ribald quarrelling.
+He would find it in the fact that the best kind of working man,
+when he wishes to praise any one, calls him "a gentleman."
+It never occurs to him that he might as well call him "a marquis,"
+or "a privy councillor"--that he is simply naming a rank or class,
+not a phrase for a good man. And this perennial temptation to a
+shameful admiration, must, and, I think, does, constantly come
+in and distort and poison our police methods.
+
+In this case we must be logical and exact; for we have to keep watch
+upon ourselves. The power of wealth, and that power at its vilest,
+is increasing in the modern world. A very good and just people,
+without this temptation, might not need, perhaps, to make clear rules and
+systems to guard themselves against the power of our great financiers.
+But that is because a very just people would have shot them long ago,
+from mere native good feeling.
+
+
+XXVIII
+
+The Lion
+
+In the town of Belfort I take a chair and I sit down in the street. We
+talk in a cant phrase of the Man in the Street, but the Frenchman is the
+man in the street. Things quite central for him are connected with these
+lamp-posts and pavements; everything from his meals to his martyrdoms.
+When first an Englishman looks at a French town or village his
+first feeling is simply that it is uglier than an English town
+or village; when he looks again he sees that this comparative
+absence of the picturesque is chiefly expressed in the plain,
+precipitous frontage of the houses standing up hard and flat
+out of the street like the cardboard houses in a pantomime--
+a hard angularity allied perhaps to the harshness of French logic.
+When he looks a third time he sees quite simply that it is all because
+the houses have no front gardens. The vague English spirit loves to have
+the entrance to its house softened by bushes and broken by steps.
+It likes to have a little anteroom of hedges half in the house
+and half out of it; a green room in a double sense. The Frenchman
+desires no such little pathetic ramparts or halting places, for the
+street itself is a thing natural and familiar to him.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The French have no front gardens; but the street is every man's
+front garden. There are trees in the street, and sometimes fountains.
+The street is the Frenchman's tavern, for he drinks in the street.
+It is his dining-room, for he dines in the street. It is his
+British Museum, for the statues and monuments in French streets are not,
+as with us, of the worst, but of the best, art of the country,
+and they are often actually as historical as the Pyramids.
+The street again is the Frenchman's Parliament, for France has
+never taken its Chamber of Deputies so seriously as we take our House
+of Commons, and the quibbles of mere elected nonentities in an official
+room seem feeble to a people whose fathers have heard the voice
+of Desmoulins like a trumpet under open heaven, or Victor Hugo
+shouting from his carriage amid the wreck of the second Republic.
+And as the Frenchman drinks in the street and dines in the street
+so also he fights in the street and dies in the street, so that
+the street can never be commonplace to him.
+
+Take, for instance, such a simple object as a lamp-post. In London
+a lamp-post is a comic thing. We think of the intoxicated
+gentleman embracing it, and recalling ancient friendship.
+But in Paris a lamp-post is a tragic thing. For we think
+of tyrants hanged on it, and of an end of the world. There is,
+or was, a bitter Republican paper in Paris called LA LANTERNE.
+How funny it would be if there were a Progressive paper in England
+called THE LAMP POST! We have said, then, that the Frenchman is the man
+in the street; that he can dine in the street, and die in the street.
+And if I ever pass through Paris and find him going to bed in the street,
+I shall say that he is still true to the genius of his civilisation.
+All that is good and all that is evil in France is alike connected
+with this open-air element. French democracy and French indecency
+are alike part of the desire to have everything out of doors.
+Compared to a caf, a public-house is a private house.
+
+. . . . .
+
+There were two reasons why all these fancies should float through
+the mind in the streets of this especial town of Belfort.
+First of all, it lies close upon the boundary of France and Germany,
+and boundaries are the most beautiful things in the world.
+To love anything is to love its boundaries; thus children will always
+play on the edge of anything. They build castles on the edge
+of the sea, and can only be restrained by public proclamation
+and private violence from walking on the edge of the grass.
+For when we have come to the end of a thing we have come
+to the beginning of it.
+
+Hence this town seemed all the more French for being on the very margin
+of Germany, and although there were many German touches in the place--
+German names, larger pots of beer, and enormous theatrical barmaids
+dressed up in outrageous imitation of Alsatian peasants--yet the fixed
+French colour seemed all the stronger for these specks of something else.
+All day long and all night long troops of dusty, swarthy, scornful little
+soldiers went plodding through the streets with an air of stubborn
+disgust, for German soldiers look as if they despised you, but French
+soldiers as if they despised you and themselves even more than you.
+It is a part, I suppose, of the realism of the nation which has made
+it good at war and science and other things in which what is necessary
+is combined with what is nasty. And the soldiers and the civilians
+alike had most of them cropped hair, and that curious kind of head
+which to an Englishman looks almost brutal, the kind that we call
+a bullet-head. Indeed, we are speaking very appropriately when we call
+it a bullet-head, for in intellectual history the heads of Frenchmen
+have been bullets--yes, and explosive bullets.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But there was a second reason why in this place one should think
+particularly of the open-air politics and the open-air art
+of the French. For this town of Belfort is famous for one of
+the most typical and powerful of the public monuments of France.
+From the caf table at which I sit I can see the hill beyond the town
+on which hangs the high and flat-faced citadel, pierced with
+many windows, and warmed in the evening light. On the steep
+hill below it is a huge stone lion, itself as large as a hill.
+It is hacked out of the rock with a sort of gigantic impression.
+No trivial attempt has been made to make it like a common statue;
+no attempt to carve the mane into curls, or to distinguish
+the monster minutely from the earth out of which he rises,
+shaking the world. The face of the lion has something of the bold
+conventionality of Assyrian art. The mane of the lion is left
+like a shapeless cloud of tempest, as if it might literally
+be said of him that God had clothed his neck with thunder.
+Even at this distance the thing looks vast, and in some
+sense prehistoric. Yet it was carved only a little while ago.
+It commemorates the fact that this town was never taken
+by the Germans through all the terrible year, but only laid
+down its arms at last at the command of its own Government.
+But the spirit of it has been in this land from the beginning--
+the spirit of something defiant and almost defeated.
+
+As I leave this place and take the railway into Germany the news comes
+thicker and thicker up the streets that Southern France is in a flame,
+and that there perhaps will be fought out finally the awful modern battle
+of the rich and poor. And as I pass into quieter places for the last
+sign of France on the sky-line, I see the Lion of Belfort stand at bay,
+the last sight of that great people which has never been at peace.
+
+
+XXIX
+
+Humanity: an Interlude
+
+Except for some fine works of art, which seem to be there by accident,
+the City of Brussels is like a bad Paris, a Paris with everything noble
+cut out, and everything nasty left in. No one can understand Paris
+and its history who does not understand that its fierceness is the balance
+and justification of its frivolity. It is called a city of pleasure;
+but it may also very specially be called a city of pain. The crown of
+roses is also a crown of thorns. Its people are too prone to hurt others,
+but quite ready also to hurt themselves. They are martyrs for religion,
+they are martyrs for irreligion; they are even martyrs for immorality.
+For the indecency of many of their books and papers is not of the sort
+which charms and seduces, but of the sort that horrifies and hurts;
+they are torturing themselves. They lash their own patriotism into life
+with the same whips which most men use to lash foreigners to silence.
+The enemies of France can never give an account of her infamy or decay
+which does not seem insipid and even polite compared with the things which
+the Nationalists of France say about their own nation. They taunt and
+torment themselves; sometimes they even deliberately oppress themselves.
+Thus, when the mob of Paris could make a Government to please itself,
+it made a sort of sublime tyranny to order itself about. The spirit is
+the same from the Crusades or St. Bartholomew to the apotheosis of Zola.
+The old religionists tortured men physically for a moral truth.
+The new realists torture men morally for a physical truth.
+
+Now Brussels is Paris without this constant purification of pain.
+Its indecencies are not regrettable incidents in an
+everlasting revolution. It has none of the things which make good
+Frenchmen love Paris; it has only the things which make unspeakable
+Englishmen love it. It has the part which is cosmopolitan--
+and narrows; not the part which is Parisian--and universal.
+You can find there (as commonly happens in modern centres)
+the worst things of all nations--the DAILY MAIL from England,
+the cheap philosophies from Germany, the loose novels of France,
+and the drinks of America. But there is no English broad fun,
+no German kindly ceremony, no American exhilaration, and,
+above all, no French tradition of fighting for an idea.
+Though all the boulevards look like Parisian boulevards,
+though all the shops look like Parisian shops, you cannot look
+at them steadily for two minutes without feeling the full
+distance between, let us say, King Leopold and fighters
+like Clemenceau and Deroulde.
+
+. . . . .
+
+For all these reasons, and many more, when I had got into Brussels I began
+to make all necessary arrangements for getting out of it again; and I
+had impulsively got into a tram which seemed to be going out of the city.
+In this tram there were two men talking; one was a little man with a
+black French beard; the other was a baldish man with bushy whiskers,
+like the financial foreign count in a three-act farce. And about the time
+that we reached the suburb of the city, and the traffic grew thinner,
+and the noises more few, I began to hear what they were saying.
+Though they spoke French quickly, their words were fairly easy to follow,
+because they were all long words. Anybody can understand long words
+because they have in them all the lucidity of Latin.
+
+The man with the black beard said: "It must that we have the Progress."
+
+The man with the whiskers parried this smartly by saying:
+"It must also that we have the Consolidation International."
+
+This is a sort of discussion which I like myself, so I listened
+with some care, and I think I picked up the thread of it.
+One of the Belgians was a Little Belgian, as we speak
+of a Little Englander. The other was a Belgian Imperialist,
+for though Belgium is not quite strong enough to be altogether
+a nation, she is quite strong enough to be an empire.
+Being a nation means standing up to your equals, whereas being
+an empire only means kicking your inferiors. The man with whiskers
+was the Imperialist, and he was saying: "The science, behold there
+the new guide of humanity."
+
+And the man with the beard answered him: "It does not suffice to
+have progress in the science; one must have it also in the sentiment
+of the human justice."
+
+This remark I applauded, as if at a public meeting, but they were much
+too keen on their argument to hear me. The views I have often heard in
+England, but never uttered so lucidly, and certainly never so fast.
+Though Belgian by nation they must both have been essentially French.
+Whiskers was great on education, which, it seems, is on
+the march. All the world goes to make itself instructed.
+It must that the more instructed enlighten the less instructed.
+Eh, well then, the European must impose upon the savage the science
+and the light. Also (apparently) he must impose himself on
+the savage while he is about it. To-day one travelled quickly.
+The science had changed all. For our fathers, they were
+religious, and (what was worse) dead. To-day humanity had
+electricity to the hand; the machines came from triumphing;
+all the lines and limits of the globe effaced themselves.
+Soon there would not be but the great Empires and confederations,
+guided by the science, always the science.
+
+Here Whiskers stopped an instant for breath; and the man with
+the sentiment for human justice had "la parole" off him in a flash.
+Without doubt Humanity was on the march, but towards the sentiments,
+the ideal, the methods moral and pacific. Humanity directed itself
+towards Humanity. For your wars and empires on behalf of civilisation,
+what were they in effect? The war, was it not itself an affair of the
+barbarism? The Empires were they not things savage? The Humanity had
+passed all that; she was now intellectual. Tolstoy had refined all
+human souls with the sentiments the most delicate and just. Man was
+become a spirit; the wings pushed. . . .
+
+. . . . .
+
+At this important point of evolution the tram came to a jerky stoppage;
+and staring around I found, to my stunned consternation, that it
+was almost dark, that I was far away from Brussels, that I could not
+dream of getting back to dinner; in short, that through the clinging
+fascination of this great controversy on Humanity and its recent complete
+alteration by science or Tolstoy, I had landed myself Heaven knows where.
+I dropped hastily from the suburban tram and let it go on without me.
+
+I was alone in the flat fields out of sight of the city.
+On one side of the road was one of those small, thin woods
+which are common in all countries, but of which, by a coincidence,
+the mystical painters of Flanders were very fond. The night was
+closing in with cloudy purple and grey; there was one ribbon of silver,
+the last rag of the sunset. Through the wood went one little path,
+and somehow it suggested that it might lead to some sign of life--
+there was no other sign of life on the horizon. I went along it,
+and soon sank into a sort of dancing twilight of all those tiny trees.
+There is something subtle and bewildering about that sort of frail
+and fantastic wood. A forest of big trees seems like a bodily barrier;
+but somehow that mist of thin lines seems like a spiritual barrier.
+It is as if one were caught in a fairy cloud or could not pass a phantom.
+When I had well lost the last gleam of the high road a curious
+and definite feeling came upon me. Now I suddenly felt something
+much more practical and extraordinary--the absence of humanity:
+inhuman loneliness. Of course, there was nothing really lost
+in my state; but the mood may hit one anywhere. I wanted men--
+any men; and I felt our awful alliance over all the globe.
+And at last, when I had walked for what seemed a long time, I saw
+a light too near the earth to mean anything except the image of God.
+
+I came out on a clear space and a low, long cottage, the door
+of which was open, but was blocked by a big grey horse,
+who seemed to prefer to eat with his head inside the sitting-room.
+I got past him, and found he was being fed by a young man
+who was sitting down and drinking beer inside, and who saluted
+me with heavy rustic courtesy, but in a strange tongue.
+The room was full of staring faces like owls, and these I
+traced at length as belonging to about six small children.
+Their father was still working in the fields, but their mother
+rose when I entered. She smiled, but she and all the rest
+spoke some rude language, Flamand, I suppose; so that we
+had to be kind to each other by signs. She fetched me beer,
+and pointed out my way with her finger; and I drew a picture
+to please the children; and as it was a picture of two men
+hitting each other with swords, it pleased them very much.
+Then I gave a Belgian penny to each child, for as I said on chance
+in French, "It must be that we have the economic equality."
+But they had never heard of economic equality, while all
+Battersea workmen have heard of economic equality, though it
+is true that they haven't got it.
+
+I found my way back to the city, and some time afterwards I actually
+saw in the street my two men talking, no doubt still saying,
+one that Science had changed all in Humanity, and the other that
+Humanity was now pushing the wings of the purely intellectual.
+But for me Humanity was hooked on to an accidental picture.
+I thought of a low and lonely house in the flats, behind a veil
+or film of slight trees, a man breaking the ground as men have
+broken from the first morning, and a huge grey horse champing
+his food within a foot of a child's head, as in the stable
+where Christ was born.
+
+
+XXX
+
+The Little Birds Who Won't Sing
+
+On my last morning on the Flemish coast, when I knew that
+in a few hours I should be in England, my eye fell upon one
+of the details of Gothic carving of which Flanders is full.
+I do not know whether the thing is old, though it was certainly
+knocked about and indecipherable, but at least it was certainly
+in the style and tradition of the early Middle Ages.
+It seemed to represent men bending themselves (not to say
+twisting themselves) to certain primary employments.
+Some seemed to be sailors tugging at ropes; others, I think,
+were reaping; others were energetically pouring something
+into something else. This is entirely characteristic of
+the pictures and carvings of the early thirteenth century,
+perhaps the most purely vigorous time in all history.
+The great Greeks preferred to carve their gods and heroes
+doing nothing. Splendid and philosophic as their composure
+is there is always about it something that marks the master
+of many slaves. But if there was one thing the early
+mediaevals liked it was representing people doing something--
+hunting or hawking, or rowing boats, or treading grapes,
+or making shoes, or cooking something in a pot. "Quicquid agunt
+homines, votum, timor, ira voluptas." (I quote from memory.)
+The Middle Ages is full of that spirit in all its monuments and
+manuscripts. Chaucer retains it in his jolly insistence on
+everybody's type of trade and toil. It was the earliest and
+youngest resurrection of Europe, the time when social order was
+strengthening, but had not yet become oppressive; the time when
+religious faiths were strong, but had not yet been exasperated.
+For this reason the whole effect of Greek and Gothic carving is
+different. The figures in the Elgin marbles, though often reining
+their steeds for an instant in the air, seem frozen for ever
+at that perfect instant. But a mass of mediaeval carving
+seems actually a sort of bustle or hubbub in stone.
+Sometimes one cannot help feeling that the groups actually
+move and mix, and the whole front of a great cathedral has
+the hum of a huge hive.
+
+. . . . .
+
+But about these particular figures there was a peculiarity
+of which I could not be sure. Those of them that had any heads
+had very curious heads, and it seemed to me that they had their
+mouths open. Whether or no this really meant anything or was
+an accident of nascent art I do not know; but in the course
+of wondering I recalled to my mind the fact that singing was
+connected with many of the tasks there suggested, that there
+were songs for reapers and songs for sailors hauling ropes.
+I was still thinking about this small problem when I walked
+along the pier at Ostend; and I heard some sailors uttering
+a measured shout as they laboured, and I remembered that sailors
+still sing in chorus while they work, and even sing different
+songs according to what part of their work they are doing.
+And a little while afterwards, when my sea journey was over, the sight
+of men working in the English fields reminded me again that there
+are still songs for harvest and for many agricultural routines.
+And I suddenly wondered why if this were so it should be
+quite unknown, for any modern trade to have a ritual poetry.
+How did people come to chant rude poems while pulling certain
+ropes or gathering certain fruit, and why did nobody do
+anything of the kind while producing any of the modern things?
+Why is a modern newspaper never printed by people singing in chorus?
+Why do shopmen seldom, if ever, sing?
+
+. . . . .
+
+If reapers sing while reaping, why should not auditors sing while
+auditing and bankers while banking? If there are songs for all
+the separate things that have to be done in a boat, why are there
+not songs for all the separate things that have to be done in a bank?
+As the train from Dover flew through the Kentish gardens,
+I tried to write a few songs suitable for commercial gentlemen.
+Thus, the work of bank clerks when casting up columns might begin
+with a thundering chorus in praise of Simple Addition.
+
+"Up my lads and lift the ledgers, sleep and ease are o'er.
+Hear the Stars of Morning shouting: 'Two and Two are four.'
+Though the creeds and realms are reeling, though the sophists roar,
+Though we weep and pawn our watches, Two and Two are Four."
+
+"There's a run upon the Bank--Stand away! For the Manager's
+a crank and the Secretary drank,
+ and the Upper Tooting Bank
+ Turns to bay!
+Stand close: there is a run On the Bank. Of our ship, our royal one,
+let the ringing legend run,
+ that she fired with every gun
+ Ere she sank."
+
+. . . . .
+
+And as I came into the cloud of London I met a friend of mine
+who actually is in a bank, and submitted these suggestions
+in rhyme to him for use among his colleagues. But he was not
+very hopeful about the matter. It was not (he assured me)
+that he underrated the verses, or in any sense lamented their
+lack of polish. No; it was rather, he felt, an indefinable
+something in the very atmosphere of the society in which we
+live that makes it spiritually difficult to sing in banks.
+And I think he must be right; though the matter is very mysterious.
+I may observe here that I think there must be some mistake in
+the calculations of the Socialists. They put down all our distress,
+not to a moral tone, but to the chaos of private enterprise.
+Now, banks are private; but post-offices are Socialistic:
+therefore I naturally expected that the post-office would fall into
+the collectivist idea of a chorus. Judge of my surprise when the
+lady in my local post-office (whom I urged to sing) dismissed the
+idea with far more coldness than the bank clerk had done. She
+seemed indeed, to be in a considerably greater state of depression
+than he. Should any one suppose that this was the effect of the
+verses themselves, it is only fair to say that the specimen verse
+of the Post-Office Hymn ran thus:
+
+"O'er London our letters are shaken like snow,
+ Our wires o'er the world like the thunderbolts go.
+ The news that may marry a maiden in Sark,
+ Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+Chorus (with a swing of joy and energy):
+
+"Or kill an old lady in Finsbury Park."
+
+And the more I thought about the matter the more painfully
+certain it seemed that the most important and typical modern
+things could not be done with a chorus. One could not,
+for instance, be a great financier and sing; because the
+essence of being a great financier is that you keep quiet.
+You could not even in many modern circles be a public man
+and sing; because in those circles the essence of being
+a public man is that you do nearly everything in private.
+Nobody would imagine a chorus of money-lenders. Every one
+knows the story of the solicitors' corps of volunteers who,
+when the Colonel on the battlefield cried "Charge!" all said
+simultaneously, "Six-and-eightpence." Men can sing while
+charging in a military, but hardly in a legal sense. And at
+the end of my reflections I had really got no further than
+the sub-conscious feeling of my friend the bank-clerk--that
+there is something spiritually suffocating about our life;
+not about our laws merely, but about our life. Bank-clerks
+are without songs, not because they are poor, but because
+they are sad. Sailors are much poorer. As I passed homewards
+I passed a little tin building of some religious sort, which
+was shaken with shouting as a trumpet is torn with its own
+tongue. THEY were singing anyhow; and I had for an instant
+a fancy I had often had before: that with us the super-human
+is the only place where you can find the human. Human nature
+is hunted and has fled into sanctuary.
+
+
+XXXI
+
+The Riddle of the Ivy
+
+More than a month ago, when I was leaving London for a holiday,
+a friend walked into my flat in Battersea and found me surrounded
+with half-packed luggage.
+
+"You seem to be off on your travels," he said. "Where are you going?"
+
+With a strap between my teeth I replied, "To Battersea."
+
+"The wit of your remark," he said, "wholly escapes me."
+
+"I am going to Battersea," I repeated, "to Battersea vi Paris, Belfort,
+Heidelberg, and Frankfort. My remark contained no wit. It contained
+simply the truth. I am going to wander over the whole world until once
+more I find Battersea. Somewhere in the seas of sunset or of sunrise,
+somewhere in the ultimate archipelago of the earth, there is one little
+island which I wish to find: an island with low green hills and great
+white cliffs. Travellers tell me that it is called England (Scotch
+travellers tell me that it is called Britain), and there is a rumour
+that somewhere in the heart of it there is a beautiful place called
+Battersea."
+
+"I suppose it is unnecessary to tell you," said my friend,
+with an air of intellectual comparison, "that this is Battersea?"
+
+"It is quite unnecessary," I said, "and it is spiritually untrue.
+I cannot see any Battersea here; I cannot see any London or
+any England. I cannot see that door. I cannot see that chair:
+because a cloud of sleep and custom has come across my eyes.
+The only way to get back to them is to go somewhere else; and that
+is the real object of travel and the real pleasure of holidays.
+Do you suppose that I go to France in order to see France? Do you suppose
+that I go to Germany in order to see Germany? I shall enjoy them both;
+but it is not them that I am seeking. I am seeking Battersea.
+The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land;
+it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land.
+Now I warn you that this Gladstone bag is compact and heavy,
+and that if you utter that word 'paradox' I shall hurl it at your head.
+I did not make the world, and I did not make it paradoxical.
+It is not my fault, it is the truth, that the only way to go
+to England is to go away from it."
+
+But when, after only a month's travelling, I did come back
+to England, I was startled to find that I had told the exact truth.
+England did break on me at once beautifully new and beautifully old.
+To land at Dover is the right way to approach England (most things
+that are hackneyed are right), for then you see first the full,
+soft gardens of Kent, which are, perhaps, an exaggeration,
+but still a typical exaggeration, of the rich rusticity of England.
+As it happened, also, a fellow-traveller with whom I had fallen
+into conversation felt the same freshness, though for another cause.
+She was an American lady who had seen Europe, and had
+never yet seen England, and she expressed her enthusiasm
+in that simple and splendid way which is natural to Americans,
+who are the most idealistic people in the whole world.
+Their only danger is that the idealist can easily become the idolator.
+And the American has become so idealistic that he even idealises money.
+But (to quote a very able writer of American short stories)
+that is another story.
+
+"I have never been in England before," said the American lady,
+"yet it is so pretty that I feel as if I have been away from it
+for a long time."
+
+"So you have," I said; "you have been away for three hundred years."
+
+"What a lot of ivy you have," she said. "It covers the churches
+and it buries the houses. We have ivy; but I have never seen it
+grow like that."
+
+"I am interested to hear it," I replied, "for I am making a little
+list of all the things that are really better in England.
+Even a month on the Continent, combined with intelligence,
+will teach you that there are many things that are better abroad.
+All the things that the DAILY MAIL calls English are better abroad.
+But there are things entirely English and entirely good.
+Kippers, for instance, and Free Trade, and front gardens,
+and individual liberty, and the Elizabethan drama, and hansom cabs,
+and cricket, and Mr. Will Crooks. Above all, there is the happy
+and holy custom of eating a heavy breakfast. I cannot imagine that
+Shakespeare began the day with rolls and coffee, like a Frenchman
+or a German. Surely he began with bacon or bloaters. In fact, a
+light bursts upon me; for the first time I see the real meaning of
+Mrs. Gallup and the Great Cipher. It is merely a mistake in the
+matter of a capital letter. I withdraw my objections; I accept
+everything; bacon did write Shakespeare."
+
+"I cannot look at anything but the ivy," she said,
+"it looks so comfortable."
+
+While she looked at the ivy I opened for the first time for many
+weeks an English newspaper, and I read a speech of Mr. Balfour
+in which he said that the House of Lords ought to be preserved
+because it represented something in the nature of permanent public
+opinion of England, above the ebb and flow of the parties.
+Now Mr. Balfour is a perfectly sincere patriot, a man who, from his
+own point of view, thinks long and seriously about the public needs,
+and he is, moreover, a man of entirely exceptionable intellectual power.
+But alas, in spite of all this, when I had read that speech I
+thought with a heavy heart that there was one more thing that I had
+to add to the list of the specially English things, such as kippers
+and cricket; I had to add the specially English kind of humbug.
+In France things are attacked and defended for what they are.
+The Catholic Church is attacked because it is Catholic,
+and defended because it is Catholic. The Republic is defended
+because it is Republican, and attacked because it is Republican.
+But here is the ablest of English politicians consoling everybody
+by telling them that the House of Lords is not really the House
+of Lords, but something quite different, that the foolish accidental
+peers whom he meets every night are in some mysterious way experts
+upon the psychology of the democracy; that if you want to know
+what the very poor want you must ask the very rich, and that if you
+want the truth about Hoxton, you must ask for it at Hatfield.
+If the Conservative defender of the House of Lords were a logical
+French politician he would simply be a liar. But being an English
+politician he is simply a poet. The English love of believing that
+all is as it should be, the English optimism combined with the strong
+English imagination, is too much even for the obvious facts.
+In a cold, scientific sense, of course, Mr. Balfour knows that nearly
+all the Lords who are not Lords by accident are Lords by bribery.
+He knows, and (as Mr. Belloc excellently said) everybody in Parliament
+knows the very names of the peers who have purchased their peerages.
+But the glamour of comfort, the pleasure of reassuring himself
+and reassuring others, is too strong for this original knowledge;
+at last it fades from him, and he sincerely and earnestly
+calls on Englishmen to join with him in admiring an august and
+public-spirited Senate, having wholly forgotten that the Senate
+really consists of idiots whom he has himself despised;
+and adventurers whom he has himself ennobled.
+
+"Your ivy is so beautifully soft and thick," said the American lady,
+"it seems to cover almost everything. It must be the most poetical
+thing in England."
+
+"It is very beautiful," I said, "and, as you say, it is very English.
+Charles Dickens, who was almost more English than England,
+wrote one of his rare poems about the beauty of ivy.
+Yes, by all means let us admire the ivy, so deep, so warm,
+so full of a genial gloom and a grotesque tenderness.
+Let us admire the ivy; and let us pray to God in His mercy
+that it may not kill the tree."
+
+
+XXXII
+
+The Travellers in State
+
+The other day, to my great astonishment, I caught a train; it was
+a train going into the Eastern Counties, and I only just caught it.
+And while I was running along the train (amid general admiration)
+I noticed that there were a quite peculiar and unusual number of
+carriages marked "Engaged." On five, six, seven, eight, nine carriages
+was pasted the little notice: at five, six, seven, eight, nine windows
+were big bland men staring out in the conscious pride of possession.
+Their bodies seemed more than usually impenetrable, their faces more
+than usual placid. It could not be the Derby, if only for the minor
+reasons that it was the opposite direction and the wrong day.
+It could hardly be the King. It could hardly be the French President.
+For, though these distinguished persons naturally like to be private
+for three hours, they are at least public for three minutes.
+A crowd can gather to see them step into the train; and there was no
+crowd here, or any police ceremonial.
+
+Who were those awful persons, who occupied more of the train
+than a bricklayer's beanfeast, and yet were more fastidious
+and delicate than the King's own suite? Who were these that
+were larger than a mob, yet more mysterious than a monarch?
+Was it possible that instead of our Royal House visiting the Tsar,
+he was really visiting us? Or does the House of Lords
+have a breakfast? I waited and wondered until the train
+slowed down at some station in the direction of Cambridge.
+Then the large, impenetrable men got out, and after them
+got out the distinguished holders of the engaged seats.
+They were all dressed decorously in one colour; they had neatly
+cropped hair; and they were chained together.
+
+I looked across the carriage at its only other occupant, and our
+eyes met. He was a small, tired-looking man, and, as I afterwards learnt,
+a native of Cambridge; by the look of him, some working tradesman there,
+such as a journeyman tailor or a small clock-mender. In order to make
+conversation I said I wondered where the convicts were going.
+His mouth twitched with the instinctive irony of our poor, and he said:
+"I don't s'pose they're goin' on an 'oliday at the seaside with little
+spades and pails." I was naturally delighted, and, pursuing the same vein
+of literary invention, I suggested that perhaps dons were taken down
+to Cambridge chained together like this. And as he lived in Cambridge,
+and had seen several dons, he was pleased with such a scheme. Then when
+we had ceased to laugh, we suddenly became quite silent; and the bleak,
+grey eyes of the little man grew sadder and emptier than an open sea.
+I knew what he was thinking, because I was thinking the same, because all
+modern sophists are only sophists, and there is such a thing as mankind.
+Then at last (and it fell in as exactly as the right last note of a tune
+one is trying to remember) he said: "Well, I s'pose we 'ave to do it."
+And in those three things, his first speech and his silence and his
+second speech, there were all the three great fundamental facts of
+the English democracy, its profound sense of humour, its profound sense
+of pathos, and its profound sense of helplessness.
+
+. . . . .
+
+It cannot be too often repeated that all real democracy is an attempt
+(like that of a jolly hostess) to bring the shy people out.
+For every practical purpose of a political state, for every practical
+purpose of a tea-party, he that abaseth himself must be exalted.
+At a tea-party it is equally obvious that he that exalteth
+himself must be abased, if possible without bodily violence.
+Now people talk of democracy as being coarse and turbulent:
+it is a self-evident error in mere history. Aristocracy is the thing
+that is always coarse and turbulent: for it means appealing to the
+self-confident people. Democracy means appealing to the different
+people. Democracy means getting those people to vote who would never
+have the cheek to govern: and (according to Christian ethics) the
+precise people who ought to govern are the people who have not the
+cheek to do it. There is a strong example of this truth in my friend
+in the train. The only two types we hear of in this argument about crime
+and punishment are two very rare and abnormal types.
+
+We hear of the stark sentimentalist, who talks as if there were no
+problem at all: as if physical kindness would cure everything:
+as if one need only pat Nero and stroke Ivan the Terrible.
+This mere belief in bodily humanitarianism is not sentimental;
+it is simply snobbish. For if comfort gives men virtue,
+the comfortable classes ought to be virtuous--which is absurd.
+Then, again, we do hear of the yet weaker and more watery
+type of sentimentalists: I mean the sentimentalist who says,
+with a sort of splutter, "Flog the brutes!" or who tells you
+with innocent obscenity "what he would do" with a certain man--
+always supposing the man's hands were tied.
+
+This is the more effeminate type of the two; but both are weak
+and unbalanced. And it is only these two types, the sentimental
+humanitarian and the sentimental brutalitarian, whom one hears
+in the modern babel. Yet you very rarely meet either of them
+in a train. You never meet anyone else in a controversy.
+The man you meet in a train is like this man that I met:
+he is emotionally decent, only he is intellectually doubtful.
+So far from luxuriating in the loathsome things that could
+be "done" to criminals, he feels bitterly how much better it
+would be if nothing need be done. But something must be done.
+"I s'pose we 'ave to do it." In short, he is simply a sane man,
+and of a sane man there is only one safe definition. He is a man
+who can have tragedy in his heart and comedy in his head.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Now the real difficulty of discussing decently this problem
+of the proper treatment of criminals is that both parties
+discuss the matter without any direct human feeling.
+The denouncers of wrong are as cold as the organisers of wrong.
+Humanitarianism is as hard as inhumanity.
+
+Let me take one practical instance. I think the flogging
+arranged in our modern prisons is a filthy torture; all its
+scientific paraphernalia, the photographing, the medical attendance,
+prove that it goes to the last foul limit of the boot and rack.
+The cat is simply the rack without any of its intellectual reasons.
+Holding this view strongly, I open the ordinary humanitarian books or
+papers and I find a phrase like this, "The lash is a relic of barbarism."
+So is the plough. So is the fishing net. So is the horn or
+the staff or the fire lit in winter. What an inexpressibly feeble
+phrase for anything one wants to attack--a relic of barbarism!
+It is as if a man walked naked down the street to-morrow,
+and we said that his clothes were not quite in the latest fashion.
+There is nothing particularly nasty about being a relic of barbarism.
+Man is a relic of barbarism. Civilisation is a relic of barbarism.
+
+But torture is not a relic of barbarism at all. In actuality it is simply
+a relic of sin; but in comparative history it may well be called a relic
+of civilisation. It has always been most artistic and elaborate when
+everything else was most artistic and elaborate. Thus it was detailed
+exquisite in the late Roman Empire, in the complex and gorgeous sixteenth
+century, in the centralised French monarchy a hundred years before the
+Revolution, and in the great Chinese civilisation to this day. This is,
+first and last, the frightful thing we must remember. In so far as we
+grow instructed and refined we are not (in any sense whatever) naturally
+moving away from torture. We may be moving towards torture. We must know
+what we are doing, if we are to avoid the enormous secret cruelty which
+has crowned every historic civilisation.
+
+The train moves more swiftly through the sunny English fields.
+They have taken the prisoners away, and I do not know what they
+have done with them.
+
+
+XXXIII
+
+The Prehistoric Railway Station
+
+A railway station is an admirable place, although Ruskin did not
+think so; he did not think so because he himself was even more
+modern than the railway station. He did not think so because
+he was himself feverish, irritable, and snorting like an engine.
+He could not value the ancient silence of the railway station.
+
+"In a railway station," he said, "you are in a hurry,
+and therefore, miserable"; but you need not be either unless
+you are as modern as Ruskin. The true philosopher does not
+think of coming just in time for his train except as a bet
+or a joke.
+
+The only way of catching a train I have ever discovered is to be
+late for the one before. Do this, and you will find in a railway
+station much of the quietude and consolation of a cathedral.
+It has many of the characteristics of a great ecclesiastical building;
+it has vast arches, void spaces, coloured lights, and, above all,
+it has recurrence or ritual. It is dedicated to the celebration
+of water and fire the two prime elements of all human ceremonial.
+Lastly, a station resembles the old religions rather than the new
+religions in this point, that people go there. In connection
+with this it should also be remembered that all popular places,
+all sites, actually used by the people, tend to retain the best
+routine of antiquity very much more than any localities or machines
+used by any privileged class. Things are not altered so quickly
+or completely by common people as they are by fashionable people.
+Ruskin could have found more memories of the Middle Ages in the
+Underground Railway than in the grand hotels outside the stations.
+The great palaces of pleasure which the rich build in London all have
+brazen and vulgar names. Their names are either snobbish, like the
+Hotel Cecil, or (worse still) cosmopolitan like the Hotel Metropole.
+But when I go in a third-class carriage from the nearest circle station
+to Battersea to the nearest circle station to the DAILY NEWS, the names
+of the stations are one long litany of solemn and saintly memories.
+Leaving Victoria I come to a park belonging especially to St. James
+the Apostle; thence I go to Westminster Bridge, whose very name alludes
+to the awful Abbey; Charing Cross holds up the symbol of Christendom;
+the next station is called a Temple; and Blackfriars remembers
+the mediaeval dream of a Brotherhood.
+
+If you wish to find the past preserved, follow the million
+feet of the crowd. At the worst the uneducated only wear
+down old things by sheer walking. But the educated kick them
+down out of sheer culture.
+
+I feel all this profoundly as I wander about the empty
+railway station, where I have no business of any kind.
+I have extracted a vast number of chocolates from automatic machines;
+I have obtained cigarettes, toffee, scent, and other things
+that I dislike by the same machinery; I have weighed myself,
+with sublime results; and this sense, not only of the
+healthiness of popular things, but of their essential
+antiquity and permanence, is still in possession of my mind.
+I wander up to the bookstall, and my faith survives even
+the wild spectacle of modern literature and journalism.
+Even in the crudest and most clamorous aspects of the newspaper
+world I still prefer the popular to the proud and fastidious.
+If I had to choose between taking in the DAILY MAIL and taking
+in the TIMES (the dilemma reminds one of a nightmare), I should
+certainly cry out with the whole of my being for the DAILY MAIL.
+Even mere bigness preached in a frivolous way is not so
+irritating as mere meanness preached in a big and solemn way.
+People buy the DAILY MAIL, but they do not believe in it.
+They do believe in the TIMES, and (apparently) they do not buy it.
+But the more the output of paper upon the modern world is
+actually studied, the more it will be found to be in all its
+essentials ancient and human, like the name of Charing Cross.
+Linger for two or three hours at a station bookstall (as I am doing),
+and you will find that it gradually takes on the grandeur
+and historic allusiveness of the Vatican or Bodleian Library.
+The novelty is all superficial; the tradition is all interior
+and profound. The DAILY MAIL has new editions, but never a new idea.
+Everything in a newspaper that is not the old human love
+of altar or fatherland is the old human love of gossip.
+Modern writers have often made game of the old chronicles
+because they chiefly record accidents and prodigies; a church
+struck by lightning, or a calf with six legs. They do not seem
+to realise that this old barbaric history is the same as new
+democratic journalism. It is not that the savage chronicle has
+disappeared. It is merely that the savage chronicle now appears
+every morning.
+
+As I moved thus mildly and vaguely in front of the bookstall, my eye
+caught a sudden and scarlet title that for the moment staggered me.
+On the outside of a book I saw written in large letters, "Get On
+or Get Out." The title of the book recalled to me with a sudden
+revolt and reaction all that does seem unquestionably new and nasty;
+it reminded me that there was in the world of to-day that utterly
+idiotic thing, a worship of success; a thing that only means surpassing
+anybody in anything; a thing that may mean being the most successful
+person in running away from a battle; a thing that may mean being
+the most successfully sleepy of the whole row of sleeping men.
+When I saw those words the silence and sanctity of the railway station
+were for the moment shadowed. Here, I thought, there is at any rate
+something anarchic and violent and vile. This title, at any rate,
+means the most disgusting individualism of this individualistic world.
+In the fury of my bitterness and passion I actually bought the book,
+thereby ensuring that my enemy would get some of my money. I opened it
+prepared to find some brutality, some blasphemy, which would really be
+an exception to the general silence and sanctity of the railway station.
+I was prepared to find something in the book that was as infamous
+as its title.
+
+I was disappointed. There was nothing at all corresponding
+to the furious decisiveness of the remarks on the cover.
+After reading it carefully I could not discover whether
+I was really to get on or to get out; but I had a vague
+feeling that I should prefer to get out. A considerable part
+of the book, particularly towards the end, was concerned
+with a detailed description of the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
+Undoubtedly Napoleon got on. He also got out. But I could not
+discover in any way how the details of his life given here were
+supposed to help a person aiming at success. One anecdote described
+how Napoleon always wiped his pen on his knee-breeches. I suppose
+the moral is: always wipe your pen on your knee-breeches, and you
+will win the battle of Wagram. Another story told that he let loose
+a gazelle among the ladies of his Court. Clearly the brutal practical
+inference is--loose a gazelle among the ladies of your acquaintance,
+and you will be Emperor of the French. Get on with a gazelle or get
+out. The book entirely reconciled me to the soft twilight of the
+station. Then I suddenly saw that there was a symbolic division
+which might be paralleled from biology. Brave men are vertebrates;
+they have their softness on the surface and their toughness
+in the middle. But these modern cowards are all crustaceans;
+their hardness is all on the cover and their softness is inside.
+But the softness is there; everything in this twilight
+temple is soft.
+
+
+XXXIV
+
+The Diabolist
+
+Every now and then I have introduced into my essays an element
+of truth. Things that really happened have been mentioned,
+such as meeting President Kruger or being thrown out of a cab.
+What I have now to relate really happened; yet there was no
+element in it of practical politics or of personal danger.
+It was simply a quiet conversation which I had with another man.
+But that quiet conversation was by far the most terrible thing
+that has ever happened to me in my life. It happened so long
+ago that I cannot be certain of the exact words of the dialogue,
+only of its main questions and answers; but there is one sentence
+in it for which I can answer absolutely and word for word.
+It was a sentence so awful that I could not forget it if I would.
+It was the last sentence spoken; and it was not spoken to me.
+
+The thing befell me in the days when I was at an art school.
+An art school is different from almost all other schools or
+colleges in this respect: that, being of new and crude creation
+and of lax discipline, it presents a specially strong contrast
+between the industrious and the idle. People at an art school
+either do an atrocious amount of work or do no work at all.
+I belonged, along with other charming people, to the latter class;
+and this threw me often into the society of men who were very
+different from myself, and who were idle for reasons very different
+from mine. I was idle because I was very much occupied;
+I was engaged about that time in discovering, to my own
+extreme and lasting astonishment, that I was not an atheist.
+But there were others also at loose ends who were engaged in
+discovering what Carlyle called (I think with needless delicacy)
+the fact that ginger is hot in the mouth.
+
+I value that time, in short, because it made me acquainted with a good
+representative number of blackguards. In this connection there are
+two very curious things which the critic of human life may observe.
+The first is the fact that there is one real difference between men
+and women; that women prefer to talk in twos, while men prefer to talk
+in threes. The second is that when you find (as you often do)
+three young cads and idiots going about together and getting drunk
+together every day you generally find that one of the three cads and
+idiots is (for some extraordinary reason) not a cad and not an idiot.
+In these small groups devoted to a drivelling dissipation there is
+almost always one man who seems to have condescended to his company;
+one man who, while he can talk a foul triviality with his fellows,
+can also talk politics with a Socialist, or philosophy with a Catholic.
+
+It was just such a man whom I came to know well. It was strange,
+perhaps, that he liked his dirty, drunken society; it was stranger
+still, perhaps, that he liked my society. For hours of the day he
+would talk with me about Milton or Gothic architecture; for hours
+of the night he would go where I have no wish to follow him, even
+in speculation. He was a man with a long, ironical face, and close
+and red hair; he was by class a gentleman, and could walk like one,
+but preferred, for some reason, to walk like a groom carrying two
+pails. He looked like a sort of Super-jockey; as if some archangel
+had gone on the Turf. And I shall never forget the half-hour in
+which he and I argued about real things for the first and the last
+time.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Along the front of the big building of which our school
+was a part ran a huge slope of stone steps, higher, I think,
+than those that lead up to St. Paul's Cathedral. On a black
+wintry evening he and I were wandering on these cold heights,
+which seemed as dreary as a pyramid under the stars.
+The one thing visible below us in the blackness was a burning
+and blowing fire; for some gardener (I suppose) was burning
+something in the grounds, and from time to time the red sparks went
+whirling past us like a swarm of scarlet insects in the dark.
+Above us also it was gloom; but if one stared long enough
+at that upper darkness, one saw vertical stripes of grey
+in the black and then became conscious of the colossal faade
+of the Doric building, phantasmal, yet filling the sky, as if
+Heaven were still filled with the gigantic ghost of Paganism.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The man asked me abruptly why I was becoming orthodox. Until he said
+it, I really had not known that I was; but the moment he had said it
+I knew it to be literally true. And the process had been so long and
+full that I answered him at once out of existing stores of explanation.
+
+"I am becoming orthodox," I said, "because I have come, rightly or
+wrongly, after stretching my brain till it bursts, to the old belief
+that heresy is worse even than sin. An error is more menacing than a
+crime, for an error begets crimes. An Imperialist is worse than a
+pirate. For an Imperialist keeps a school for pirates; he teaches
+piracy disinterestedly and without an adequate salary.
+A Free Lover is worse than a profligate. For a profligate is
+serious and reckless even in his shortest love; while a Free Lover
+is cautious and irresponsible even in his longest devotion.
+I hate modern doubt because it is dangerous."
+
+"You mean dangerous to morality," he said in a voice of wonderful
+gentleness. "I expect you are right. But why do you care about morality?"
+
+I glanced at his face quickly. He had thrust out his neck as he had
+a trick of doing; and so brought his face abruptly into the light
+of the bonfire from below, like a face in the footlights.
+His long chin and high cheek-bones were lit up infernally from underneath;
+so that he looked like a fiend staring down into the flaming pit.
+I had an unmeaning sense of being tempted in a wilderness;
+and even as I paused a burst of red sparks broke past.
+
+"Aren't those sparks splendid?" I said.
+
+"Yes," he replied.
+
+"That is all that I ask you to admit," said I. "Give me
+those few red specks and I will deduce Christian morality.
+Once I thought like you, that one's pleasure in a flying
+spark was a thing that could come and go with that spark.
+Once I thought that the delight was as free as the fire.
+Once I thought that red star we see was alone in space.
+But now I know that the red star is only on the apex
+of an invisible pyramid of virtues. That red fire is only
+the flower on a stalk of living habits, which you cannot see.
+Only because your mother made you say 'Thank you' for a bun
+are you now able to thank Nature or chaos for those red stars
+of an instant or for the white stars of all time. Only because you
+were humble before fireworks on the fifth of November do you now
+enjoy any fireworks that you chance to see. You only like them
+being red because you were told about the blood of the martyrs;
+you only like them being bright because brightness is a glory.
+That flame flowered out of virtues, and it will fade with virtues.
+Seduce a woman, and that spark will be less bright.
+Shed blood, and that spark will be less red. Be really bad,
+and they will be to you like the spots on a wall-paper."
+
+He had a horrible fairness of the intellect that made me despair of
+his soul. A common, harmless atheist would have denied that religion
+produced humility or humility a simple joy: but he admitted both.
+He only said, "But shall I not find in evil a life of its own?
+Granted that for every woman I ruin one of those red sparks will go out:
+will not the expanding pleasure of ruin . . ."
+
+"Do you see that fire ?" I asked. "If we had a real fighting democracy,
+some one would burn you in it; like the devil-worshipper that you are."
+
+"Perhaps," he said, in his tired, fair way. "Only what you call
+evil I call good."
+
+He went down the great steps alone, and I felt as if I wanted
+the steps swept and cleaned. I followed later, and as I went to find
+my hat in the low, dark passage where it hung, I suddenly heard his
+voice again, but the words were inaudible. I stopped, startled:
+then I heard the voice of one of the vilest of his associates saying,
+"Nobody can possibly know." And then I heard those two or three
+words which I remember in every syllable and cannot forget.
+I heard the Diabolist say, "I tell you I have done everything else.
+If I do that I shan't know the difference between right and wrong."
+I rushed out without daring to pause; and as I passed the fire I
+did not know whether it was hell or the furious love of God.
+
+I have since heard that he died: it may be said, I think,
+that he committed suicide; though he did it with tools of pleasure,
+not with tools of pain. God help him, I know the road he went;
+but I have never known, or even dared to think, what was that place
+at which he stopped and refrained.
+
+
+XXXV
+
+A Glimpse of My Country
+
+Whatever is it that we are all looking for? I fancy that it is
+really quite close. When I was a boy I had a fancy that Heaven
+or Fairyland or whatever I called it, was immediately behind my
+own back, and that this was why I could never manage to see it,
+however often I twisted and turned to take it by surprise.
+I had a notion of a man perpetually spinning round on one foot
+like a teetotum in the effort to find that world behind his back
+which continually fled from him. Perhaps this is why the world
+goes round. Perhaps the world is always trying to look over
+its shoulder and catch up the world which always escapes it,
+yet without which it cannot be itself.
+
+In any case, as I have said, I think that we must always conceive
+of that which is the goal of all our endeavours as something which is
+in some strange way near. Science boasts of the distance of its stars;
+of the terrific remoteness of the things of which it has to speak.
+But poetry and religion always insist upon the proximity, the almost
+menacing closeness of the things with which they are concerned.
+Always the Kingdom of Heaven is "At Hand"; and Looking-glass Land is
+only through the looking-glass. So I for one should never be astonished
+if the next twist of a street led me to the heart of that maze in
+which all the mystics are lost. I should not be at all surprised if I
+turned one corner in Fleet Street and saw a yet queerer-looking lamp;
+I should not be surprised if I turned a third corner and found
+myself in Elfland.
+
+I should not be surprised at this; but I was surprised the other day
+at something more surprising. I took a turn out of Fleet Street
+and found myself in England.
+
+. . . . .
+
+The singular shock experienced perhaps requires explanation.
+In the darkest or the most inadequate moments of England there
+is one thing that should always be remembered about the very
+nature of our country. It may be shortly stated by saying that
+England is not such a fool as it looks. The types of England,
+the externals of England, always misrepresent the country.
+England is an oligarchical country, and it prefers that its
+oligarchy should be inferior to itself.
+
+The speaking in the House of Commons, for instance, is not only worse
+than the speaking was, it is worse than the speaking is, in all or
+almost all other places in small debating clubs or casual dinners.
+Our countrymen probably prefer this solemn futility in the higher
+places of the national life. It may be a strange sight to see
+the blind leading the blind; but England provides a stranger.
+England shows us the blind leading the people who can see.
+And this again is an under-statement of the case. For the English
+political aristocrats not only speak worse than many other people;
+they speak worse than themselves. The ignorance of statesmen is
+like the ignorance of judges, an artificial and affected thing.
+If you have the good fortune really to talk with a statesman, you will
+be constantly startled with his saying quite intelligent things.
+It makes one nervous at first. And I have never been sufficiently
+intimate with such a man to ask him why it was a rule of his life
+in Parliament to appear sillier than he was.
+
+It is the same with the voters. The average man votes below himself;
+he votes with half a mind or with a hundredth part of one.
+A man ought to vote with the whole of himself as he worships
+or gets married. A man ought to vote with his head and heart,
+his soul and stomach, his eye for faces and his ear for music;
+also (when sufficiently provoked) with his hands and feet.
+If he has ever seen a fine sunset, the crimson colour of it
+should creep into his vote. If he has ever heard splendid songs,
+they should be in his ears when he makes the mystical cross.
+But as it is, the difficulty with English democracy at all
+elections is that it is something less than itself. The question
+is not so much whether only a minority of the electorate votes.
+The point is that only a minority of the voter votes.
+
+. . . . .
+
+This is the tragedy of England; you cannot judge it by its foremost men.
+Its types do not typify. And on the occasion of which I speak
+I found this to be so especially of that old intelligent middle
+class which I had imagined had almost vanished from the world.
+It seemed to me that all the main representatives of the middle
+class had gone off in one direction or in the other; they had either
+set out in pursuit of the Smart Set or they had set out in pursuit
+of the Simple Life. I cannot say which I dislike more myself;
+the people in question are welcome to have either of them, or, as is
+more likely, to have both, in hideous alternations of disease and cure.
+But all the prominent men who plainly represent the middle class have
+adopted either the single eye-glass of Mr Chamberlain or the single
+eye of Mr. Bernard Shaw.
+
+The old class that I mean has no representative. Its food was plentiful;
+but it had no show. Its food was plain; but it had no fads.
+It was serious about politics; and when it spoke in public it
+committed the solecism of trying to speak well. I thought that
+this old earnest political England had practically disappeared.
+And as I say, I took one turn out of Fleet Street and I found
+a room full of it.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At the top of the room was a chair in which Johnson had sat. The club
+was a club in which Wilkes had spoken, in a time when even the
+ne'er-do-weel was virile. But all these things by themselves might be
+merely archaism. The extraordinary thing was that this hall had all
+the hubbub, the sincerity, the anger, the oratory of the eighteenth
+century. The members of this club were of all shades of opinion, yet
+there was not one speech which gave me that jar of unreality which I
+often have in listening to the ablest men uttering my own opinion.
+The Toryism of this club was like the Toryism of Johnson,
+a Toryism that could use humour and appealed to humanity.
+The democracy of this club was like the democracy of Wilkes,
+a democracy that can speak epigrams and fight duels;
+a democracy that can face things out and endure slander;
+the democracy of Wilkes, or, rather, the democracy of Fox.
+
+One thing especially filled my soul with the soul of my fathers.
+Each man speaking, whether he spoke well or ill, spoke as
+well as he could from sheer fury against the other man.
+This is the greatest of our modern descents, that nowadays a man
+does not become more rhetorical as he becomes more sincere.
+An eighteenth-century speaker, when he got really and honestly furious,
+looked for big words with which to crush his adversary.
+The new speaker looks for small words to crush him with.
+He looks for little facts and little sneers. In a modern speech
+the rhetoric is put into the merely formal part, the opening
+to which nobody listens. But when Mr. Chamberlain, or a Moderate,
+or one of the harder kind of Socialists, becomes really sincere,
+he becomes Cockney. "The destiny of the Empire," or "The destiny
+of humanity," do well enough for mere ornamental preliminaries,
+but when the man becomes angry and honest, then it is a snarl,
+"Where do we come in?" or "It's your money they want."
+
+The men in this eighteenth-century club were entirely different;
+they were quite eighteenth century. Each one rose to his feet
+quivering with passion, and tried to destroy his opponent,
+not with sniggering, but actually with eloquence. I was arguing
+with them about Home Rule; at the end I told them why the English
+aristocracy really disliked an Irish Parliament; because it would
+be like their club.
+
+. . . . .
+
+I came out again into Fleet Street at night, and by a dim lamp I
+saw pasted up some tawdry nonsense about Wastrels and how London
+was rising against something that London had hardly heard of.
+Then I suddenly saw, as in one obvious picture, that the modern world
+is an immense and tumultuous ocean, full of monstrous and living things.
+And I saw that across the top of it is spread a thin, a very thin,
+sheet of ice, of wicked wealth and of lying journalism.
+
+And as I stood there in the darkness I could almost fancy that I
+heard it crack.
+
+
+XXXVI
+
+A Somewhat Improbable Story
+
+I cannot remember whether this tale is true or not. If I read
+it through very carefully I have a suspicion that I should come
+to the conclusion that it is not. But, unfortunately, I cannot read
+it through very carefully, because, you see, it is not written yet.
+The image and the idea of it clung to me through a great part
+of my boyhood; I may have dreamt it before I could talk; or told it
+to myself before I could read; or read it before I could remember.
+On the whole, however, I am certain that I did not read it,
+for children have very clear memories about things like that;
+and of the books which I was really fond I can still remember,
+not only the shape and bulk and binding, but even the position
+of the printed words on many of the pages. On the whole, I incline
+to the opinion that it happened to me before I was born.
+
+. . . . .
+
+At any rate, let us tell the story now with all the advantages
+of the atmosphere that has clung to it. You may suppose me,
+for the sake of argument, sitting at lunch in one of those quick-lunch
+restaurants in the City where men take their food so fast that it
+has none of the quality of food, and take their half-hour's
+vacation so fast that it has none of the qualities of leisure;
+to hurry through one's leisure is the most unbusiness-like of actions.
+They all wore tall shiny hats as if they could not lose an instant
+even to hang them on a peg, and they all had one eye a little off,
+hypnotised by the huge eye of the clock. In short, they were the slaves
+of the modern bondage, you could hear their fetters clanking.
+Each was, in fact, bound by a chain; the heaviest chain ever tied
+to a man--it is called a watch-chain.
+
+Now, among these there entered and sat down opposite to me a man
+who almost immediately opened an uninterrupted monologue.
+He was like all the other men in dress, yet he was startlingly
+opposite to them in all manner. He wore a high shiny hat
+and a long frock coat, but he wore them as such solemn things
+were meant to be worn; he wore the silk hat as if it were a mitre,
+and the frock coat as if it were the ephod of a high priest.
+He not only hung his hat up on the peg, but he seemed
+(such was his stateliness) almost to ask permission of the hat
+for doing so, and to apologise to the peg for making use of it.
+When he had sat down on a wooden chair with the air of one
+considering its feelings and given a sort of slight stoop
+or bow to the wooden table itself, as if it were an altar,
+I could not help some comment springing to my lips.
+For the man was a big, sanguine-faced, prosperous-looking man,
+and yet he treated everything with a care that almost
+amounted to nervousness.
+
+For the sake of saying something to express my interest I said,
+"This furniture is fairly solid; but, of course, people do treat
+it much too carelessly."
+
+As I looked up doubtfully my eye caught his, and was fixed
+as his was fixed in an apocalyptic stare. I had thought him
+ordinary as he entered, save for his strange, cautious manner;
+but if the other people had seen him then they would have screamed
+and emptied the room. They did not see him, and they went on making
+a clatter with their forks, and a murmur with their conversation.
+But the man's face was the face of a maniac.
+
+"Did you mean anything particular by that remark?" he asked at last,
+and the blood crawled back slowly into his face.
+
+"Nothing whatever," I answered. "One does not mean anything here;
+it spoils people's digestions."
+
+He limped back and wiped his broad forehead with a big handkerchief;
+and yet there seemed to be a sort of regret in his relief.
+
+"I thought perhaps," he said in a low voice, "that another of them
+had gone wrong."
+
+"If you mean another digestion gone wrong," I said, "I never heard
+of one here that went right. This is the heart of the Empire,
+and the other organs are in an equally bad way."
+
+"No, I mean another street gone wrong," and he said heavily
+and quietly, "but as I suppose that doesn't explain much to you,
+I think I shall have to tell you the story. I do so with all
+the less responsibility, because I know you won't believe it.
+For forty years of my life I invariably left my office, which is
+in Leadenhall Street, at half-past five in the afternoon, taking with
+me an umbrella in the right hand and a bag in the left hand.
+For forty years two months and four days I passed out of the side
+office door, walked down the street on the left-hand side,
+took the first turning to the left and the third to the right,
+from where I bought an evening paper, followed the road on
+the right-hand side round two obtuse angles, and came out just
+outside a Metropolitan station, where I took a train home.
+For forty years two months and four days I fulfilled this course
+by accumulated habit: it was not a long street that I traversed,
+and it took me about four and a half minutes to do it.
+After forty years two months and four days, on the fifth day I
+went out in the same manner, with my umbrella in the right hand
+and my bag in the left, and I began to notice that walking along
+the familiar street tired me somewhat more than usual; and when I
+turned it I was convinced that I had turned down the wrong one.
+For now the street shot up quite a steep slant, such as one
+only sees in the hilly parts of London, and in this part
+there were no hills at all. Yet it was not the wrong street;
+the name written on it was the same; the shuttered shops were
+the same; the lamp-posts and the whole look of the perspective
+was the same; only it was tilted upwards like a lid.
+Forgetting any trouble about breathlessness or fatigue I ran
+furiously forward, and reached the second of my accustomed turnings,
+which ought to bring me almost within sight of the station.
+And as I turned that corner I nearly fell on the pavement.
+For now the street went up straight in front of my face like a steep
+staircase or the side of a pyramid. There was not for miles
+round that place so much as a slope like that of Ludgate Hill.
+And this was a slope like that of the Matterhorn. The whole
+street had lifted itself like a single wave, and yet every speck
+and detail of it was the same, and I saw in the high distance,
+as at the top of an Alpine pass, picked out in pink letters
+the name over my paper shop.
+
+"I ran on and on blindly now, passing all the shops and coming to a
+part of the road where there was a long grey row of private houses.
+I had, I know not why, an irrational feeling that I was a long
+iron bridge in empty space. An impulse seized me, and I pulled up
+the iron trap of a coal-hole. Looking down through it I saw empty
+space and the stairs.
+
+"When I looked up again a man was standing in his front garden, having
+apparently come out of his house; he was leaning over the railings and
+gazing at me. We were all alone on that nightmare road; his face was
+in shadow; his dress was dark and ordinary; but when I saw him standing
+so perfectly still I knew somehow that he was not of this world.
+And the stars behind his head were larger and fiercer than ought
+to be endured by the eyes of men.
+
+"'If you are a kind angel,' I said, 'or a wise devil, or have anything
+in common with mankind, tell me what is this street possessed of devils.'
+
+"After a long silence he said, 'What do you say that it is?'
+
+"'It is Bumpton Street, of course,' I snapped. 'It goes to Oldgate
+Station.'
+
+"'Yes,' he admitted gravely; 'it goes there sometimes. Just now, however,
+it is going to heaven.'
+
+"'To heaven?' I said. 'Why?'
+
+"'It is going to heaven for justice,' he replied. 'You must have treated
+it badly. Remember always that there is one thing that cannot be endured
+by anybody or anything. That one unendurable thing is to be overworked
+and also neglected. For instance, you can overwork women--everybody does.
+But you can't neglect women--I defy you to. At the same time,
+you can neglect tramps and gypsies and all the apparent refuse of the
+State so long as you do not overwork it. But no beast of the field, no
+horse, no dog can endure long to be asked to do more than his work and
+yet have less than his honour. It is the same with streets. You have
+worked this street to death, and yet you have never remembered its
+existence. If you had a healthy democracy, even of pagans, they would
+have hung this street with garlands and given it the name of a god.
+Then it would have gone quietly. But at last the street has grown tired
+of your tireless insolence; and it is bucking and rearing its head to
+heaven. Have you never sat on a bucking horse?'
+
+"I looked at the long grey street, and for a moment it seemed to me
+to be exactly like the long grey neck of a horse flung up to heaven.
+But in a moment my sanity returned, and I said, 'But this
+is all nonsense. Streets go to the place they have to go.
+A street must always go to its end.'
+
+"'Why do you think so of a street?' he asked, standing very still.
+
+"'Because I have always seen it do the same thing,' I replied,
+in reasonable anger. 'Day after day, year after year, it has always
+gone to Oldgate Station; day after . . .'
+
+"I stopped, for he had flung up his head with the fury
+of the road in revolt.
+
+"'And you?' he cried terribly. 'What do you think the road thinks
+of you? Does the road think you are alive? Are you alive?
+Day after day, year after year, you have gone to Oldgate Station. . . .'
+Since then I have respected the things called inanimate."
+
+And bowing slightly to the mustard-pot, the man in
+the restaurant withdrew.
+
+
+XXXVII
+
+The Shop Of Ghosts
+
+Nearly all the best and most precious things in the universe you can
+get for a halfpenny. I make an exception, of course, of the sun,
+the moon, the earth, people, stars, thunderstorms, and such trifles.
+You can get them for nothing. Also I make an exception of another thing,
+which I am not allowed to mention in this paper, and of which
+the lowest price is a penny halfpenny. But the general principle
+will be at once apparent. In the street behind me, for instance,
+you can now get a ride on an electric tram for a halfpenny.
+To be on an electric tram is to be on a flying castle in a fairy tale.
+You can get quite a large number of brightly coloured sweets for
+a halfpenny. Also you can get the chance of reading this article
+for a halfpenny; along, of course, with other and irrelevant matter.
+
+But if you want to see what a vast and bewildering array
+of valuable things you can get at a halfpenny each you
+should do as I was doing last night. I was gluing my nose
+against the glass of a very small and dimly lit toy shop
+in one of the greyest and leanest of the streets of Battersea.
+But dim as was that square of light, it was filled (as a
+child once said to me) with all the colours God ever made.
+Those toys of the poor were like the children who buy them;
+they were all dirty; but they were all bright. For my part,
+I think brightness more important than cleanliness; since
+the first is of the soul, and the second of the body. You
+must excuse me; I am a democrat; I know I am out of fashion
+in the modern world.
+
+. . . . .
+
+As I looked at that palace of pigmy wonders, at small green omnibuses,
+at small blue elephants, at small black dolls, and small red
+Noah's arks, I must have fallen into some sort of unnatural trance.
+That lit shop-window became like the brilliantly lit
+stage when one is watching some highly coloured comedy.
+I forgot the grey houses and the grimy people behind me as one
+forgets the dark galleries and the dim crowds at a theatre.
+It seemed as if the little objects behind the glass were small,
+not because they were toys, but because they were objects far away.
+The green omnibus was really a green omnibus, a green Bayswater omnibus,
+passing across some huge desert on its ordinary way to Bayswater.
+The blue elephant was no longer blue with paint; he was blue
+with distance. The black doll was really a negro relieved against
+passionate tropic foliage in the land where every weed is flaming
+and only man is black. The red Noah's ark was really the enormous
+ship of earthly salvation riding on the rain-swollen sea,
+red in the first morning of hope.
+
+Every one, I suppose, knows such stunning instants of abstraction,
+such brilliant blanks in the mind. In such moments one can see the
+face of one's own best friend as an unmeaning pattern of spectacles
+or moustaches. They are commonly marked by the two signs of the
+slowness of their growth and the suddenness of their termination.
+The return to real thinking is often as abrupt as bumping into a man.
+Very often indeed (in my case) it is bumping into a man.
+But in any case the awakening is always emphatic and,
+generally speaking, it is always complete. Now, in this case,
+I did come back with a shock of sanity to the consciousness
+that I was, after all, only staring into a dingy little toy-shop;
+but in some strange way the mental cure did not seem to be final.
+There was still in my mind an unmanageable something that told
+me that I had strayed into some odd atmosphere, or that I
+had already done some odd thing. I felt as if I had worked
+a miracle or committed a sin. It was as if I had at any rate,
+stepped across some border in the soul.
+
+To shake off this dangerous and dreamy sense I went into the shop
+and tried to buy wooden soldiers. The man in the shop was very old
+and broken, with confused white hair covering his head and half
+his face, hair so startlingly white that it looked almost artificial.
+Yet though he was senile and even sick, there was nothing of suffering
+in his eyes; he looked rather as if he were gradually falling
+asleep in a not unkindly decay. He gave me the wooden soldiers,
+but when I put down the money he did not at first seem to see it;
+then he blinked at it feebly, and then he pushed it feebly away.
+
+"No, no," he said vaguely. "I never have. I never have.
+We are rather old-fashioned here."
+
+"Not taking money," I replied, "seems to me more like an uncommonly
+new fashion than an old one."
+
+"I never have," said the old man, blinking and blowing his nose;
+"I've always given presents. I'm too old to stop."
+
+"Good heavens!" I said. "What can you mean? Why, you might
+be Father Christmas."
+
+"I am Father Christmas," he said apologetically, and blew
+his nose again.
+
+The lamps could not have been lighted yet in the street outside.
+At any rate, I could see nothing against the darkness but the shining
+shop-window. There were no sounds of steps or voices in the street;
+I might have strayed into some new and sunless world.
+But something had cut the chords of common sense, and I could
+not feel even surprise except sleepily. Something made me say,
+"You look ill, Father Christmas."
+
+"I am dying," he said.
+
+I did not speak, and it was he who spoke again.
+
+"All the new people have left my shop. I cannot understand it.
+They seem to object to me on such curious and inconsistent
+sort of grounds, these scientific men, and these innovators.
+They say that I give people superstitions and make them too visionary;
+they say I give people sausages and make them too coarse.
+They say my heavenly parts are too heavenly; they say my earthly
+parts are too earthly; I don't know what they want, I'm sure.
+How can heavenly things be too heavenly, or earthly things
+too earthly? How can one be too good, or too jolly?
+I don't understand. But I understand one thing well enough.
+These modern people are living and I am dead."
+
+"You may be dead," I replied. "You ought to know.
+But as for what they are doing, do not call it living."
+
+. . . . .
+
+A silence fell suddenly between us which I somehow expected
+to be unbroken. But it had not fallen for more than a few
+seconds when, in the utter stillness, I distinctly heard
+a very rapid step coming nearer and nearer along the street.
+The next moment a figure flung itself into the shop and stood
+framed in the doorway. He wore a large white hat tilted back
+as if in impatience; he had tight black old-fashioned pantaloons,
+a gaudy old-fashioned stock and waistcoat, and an old fantastic coat.
+He had large, wide-open, luminous eyes like those of an arresting actor;
+he had a pale, nervous face, and a fringe of beard. He took in the
+shop and the old man in a look that seemed literally a flash and
+uttered the exclamation of a man utterly staggered.
+
+"Good lord!" he cried out; "it can't be you! It isn't you!
+I came to ask where your grave was."
+
+"I'm not dead yet, Mr. Dickens," said the old gentleman, with a
+feeble smile; "but I'm dying," he hastened to add reassuringly.
+
+"But, dash it all, you were dying in my time," said Mr. Charles Dickens
+with animation; "and you don't look a day older."
+
+"I've felt like this for a long time," said Father Christmas.
+
+Mr. Dickens turned his back and put his head out of the door
+into the darkness.
+
+"Dick," he roared at the top of his voice; "he's still alive."
+
+. . . . .
+
+Another shadow darkened the doorway, and a much larger and more
+full-blooded gentleman in an enormous periwig came in, fanning his
+flushed face with a military hat of the cut of Queen Anne.
+He carried his head well back like a soldier, and his hot face
+had even a look of arrogance, which was suddenly contradicted
+by his eyes, which were literally as humble as a dog's. His sword
+made a great clatter, as if the shop were too small for it.
+
+"Indeed," said Sir Richard Steele, "'tis a most prodigious matter,
+for the man was dying when I wrote about Sir Roger de Coverley
+and his Christmas Day."
+
+My senses were growing dimmer and the room darker.
+It seemed to be filled with newcomers.
+
+"It hath ever been understood," said a burly man, who carried
+his head humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think
+he was Ben Jonson--"It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo,
+under our King James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty
+customs were fallen sick, and like to pass from the world.
+This grey beard most surely was no lustier when I knew him than now."
+
+And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood,
+say in some mixed Norman French, "But I saw the man dying."
+
+"I have felt like this a long time," said Father Christmas,
+in his feeble way again.
+
+Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him.
+
+"Since when?" he asked. "Since you were born?"
+
+"Yes," said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair.
+"I have been always dying."
+
+Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling
+a mob to rise.
+
+"I understand it now," he cried, "you will never die."
+
+
+XXXVIII
+
+The Ballade of a Strange Town
+
+My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed
+affection for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there
+was so restful that we almost felt it as a home, and hardly
+strayed out of it.
+
+We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees
+growing in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines
+of the Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent,
+in the poem, heard the bell which told them they were not too late.
+But we took as much pleasure in the people, in the little boys
+with open, flat Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks,
+making them look like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim,
+oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and mouths
+at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late
+mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck.
+
+But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his
+little tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke
+in one corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it.
+We got into the little train, which was meant really to take
+the peasants and their vegetables to and fro from their fields
+beyond the town, and the official came round to give us tickets.
+We asked him what place we should get to if we paid fivepence.
+The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us (with a
+lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism)
+where we wanted to go.
+
+We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only
+question was whether we could get there for fivepence.
+At last, after a great deal of international misunderstanding
+(for he spoke French in the Flemish and we in the English manner),
+he told us that fivepence would take us to a place which I
+have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded
+like the word "Waterloo" pronounced by an intoxicated patriot;
+I think it was Waerlowe.
+
+We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking
+from boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.
+
+For a moment I had a horrible fear that it really was the field
+of Waterloo; but I was comforted by remembering that it was
+in quite a different part of Belgium. It was a cross-roads,
+with one cottage at the corner, a perspective of tall trees like
+Hobbema's "Avenue," and beyond only the infinite flat chess-board
+of the little fields. It was the scene of peace and prosperity;
+but I must confess that my friend's first action was to ask
+the man when there would be another train back to Mechlin.
+The man stated that there would be a train back in exactly one hour.
+We walked up the avenue, and when we were nearly half an hour's
+walk away it began to rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+We arrived back at the cross-roads sodden and dripping, and,
+finding the train waiting, climbed into it with some relief.
+The officer on this train could speak nothing but Flemish,
+but he understood the name Mechlin, and indicated that when we came
+to Mechlin Station he would put us down, which, after the right
+interval of time, he did.
+
+We got down, under a steady downpour, evidently on the edge of Mechlin,
+though the features could not easily be recognised through the grey
+screen of the rain. I do not generally agree with those who find rain
+depressing. A shower-bath is not depressing; it is rather startling.
+And if it is exciting when a man throws a pail of water over you,
+why should it not also be exciting when the gods throw many pails?
+But on this soaking afternoon, whether it was the dull sky-line
+of the Netherlands or the fact that we were returning home without
+any adventure, I really did think things a trifle dreary.
+As soon as we could creep under the shelter of a street
+we turned into a little caf, kept by one woman. She was incredibly
+old, and she spoke no French. There we drank black coffee and what
+was called "cognac fine." "Cognac fine" were the only two French
+words used in the establishment, and they were not true. At least,
+the fineness (perhaps by its very ethereal delicacy) escaped me.
+After a little my friend, who was more restless than I,
+got up and went out, to see if the rain had stopped and if we
+could at once stroll back to our hotel by the station.
+I sat finishing my coffee in a colourless mood, and listening
+to the unremitting rain.
+
+. . . . .
+
+Suddenly the door burst open, and my friend appeared, transfigured
+and frantic.
+
+"Get up!" he cried, waving his hands wildly. "Get up! We're in the
+wrong town! We're not in Mechlin at all. Mechlin is ten miles,
+twenty miles off--God knows what! We're somewhere near Antwerp."
+
+"What!" I cried, leaping from my seat, and sending the furniture flying.
+"Then all is well, after all! Poetry only hid her face
+for an instant behind a cloud. Positively for a moment I
+was feeling depressed because we were in the right town.
+But if we are in the wrong town--why, we have our adventure after all!
+If we are in the wrong town, we are in the right place."
+
+I rushed out into the rain, and my friend followed me somewhat
+more grimly. We discovered we were in a town called Lierre,
+which seemed to consist chiefly of bankrupt pastry cooks,
+who sold lemonade.
+
+"This is the peak of our whole poetic progress!" I cried
+enthusiastically. "We must do something, something sacramental
+and commemorative! We cannot sacrifice an ox, and it would be
+a bore to build a temple. Let us write a poem."
+
+With but slight encouragement, I took out an old envelope
+and one of those pencils that turn bright violet in water.
+There was plenty of water about, and the violet ran down
+the paper, symbolising the rich purple of that romantic hour.
+I began, choosing the form of an old French ballade;
+it is the easiest because it is the most restricted--
+
+ "Can Man to Mount Olympus rise,
+ And fancy Primrose Hill the scene?
+ Can a man walk in Paradise
+ And think he is in Turnham Green?
+ And could I take you for Malines,
+ Not knowing the nobler thing you were?
+ O Pearl of all the plain, and queen,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+ "Through memory's mist in glimmering guise
+ Shall shine your streets of sloppy sheen.
+ And wet shall grow my dreaming eyes,
+ To think how wet my boots have been
+ Now if I die or shoot a Dean----"
+
+Here I broke off to ask my friend whether he thought it
+expressed a more wild calamity to shoot a Dean or to be a Dean.
+But he only turned up his coat collar, and I felt that for him
+the muse had folded her wings. I rewrote--
+
+ "Now if I die a Rural Dean,
+ Or rob a bank I do not care,
+ Or turn a Tory. I have seen
+ The lovely city of Lierre."
+
+"The next line," I resumed, warming to it; but my friend interrupted me.
+
+"The next line," he said somewhat harshly, "will be a railway line.
+We can get back to Mechlin from here, I find, though we
+have to change twice. I dare say I should think this jolly
+romantic but for the weather. Adventure is the champagne
+of life, but I prefer my champagne and my adventures dry.
+Here is the station."
+
+. . . . .
+
+We did not speak again until we had left Lierre, in its sacred
+cloud of rain, and were coming to Mechlin, under a clearer sky,
+that even made one think of stars. Then I leant forward and said
+to my friend in a low voice--"I have found out everything.
+We have come to the wrong star."
+
+He stared his query, and I went on eagerly: "That is what makes life
+at once so splendid and so strange. We are in the wrong world.
+When I thought that was the right town, it bored me; when I knew it
+was wrong, I was happy. So the false optimism, the modern happiness,
+tires us because it tells us we fit into this world. The true
+happiness is that we don't fit. We come from somewhere else.
+We have lost our way."
+
+He silently nodded, staring out of the window, but whether I had impressed
+or only fatigued him I could not tell. "This," I added, "is suggested
+in the last verse of a fine poem you have grossly neglected--
+
+ "'Happy is he and more than wise
+ Who sees with wondering eyes and clean
+ The world through all the grey disguise
+ Of sleep and custom in between.
+ Yes; we may pass the heavenly screen,
+ But shall we know when we are there?
+ Who know not what these dead stones mean,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.'"
+
+Here the train stopped abruptly. And from Mechlin church steeple
+we heard the half-chime: and Joris broke silence with "No bally
+HORS D'OEUVRES for me: I shall get on to something solid at once."
+
+ L'Envoy
+
+ Prince, wide your Empire spreads, I ween,
+ Yet happier is that moistened Mayor,
+ Who drinks her cognac far from fine,
+ The lovely city of Lierre.
+
+
+XXXIX
+
+The Mystery of a Pageant
+
+Once upon a time, it seems centuries ago, I was prevailed on to take
+a small part in one of those historical processions or pageants
+which happened to be fashionable in or about the year 1909.
+And since I tend, like all who are growing old, to re-enter
+the remote past as a paradise or playground, I disinter a memory
+which may serve to stand among those memories of small but strange
+incidents with which I have sometimes filled this column.
+The thing has really some of the dark qualities of a detective-story;
+though I suppose that Sherlock Holmes himself could hardly unravel
+it now, when the scent is so old and cold and most of the actors,
+doubtless, long dead.
+
+This old pageant included a series of figures from the eighteenth century,
+and I was told that I was just like Dr. Johnson. Seeing that Dr. Johnson
+was heavily seamed with small-pox, had a waistcoat all over gravy,
+snorted and rolled as he walked, and was probably the ugliest man
+in London, I mention this identification as a fact and not as a vaunt.
+I had nothing to do with the arrangement; and such fleeting suggestions
+as I made were not taken so seriously as they might have been.
+I requested that a row of posts be erected across the lawn, so that I
+might touch all of them but one, and then go back and touch that.
+Failing this, I felt that the least they could do was to have
+twenty-five cups of tea stationed at regular intervals along
+the course, each held by a Mrs. Thrale in full costume.
+My best constructive suggestion was the most harshly rejected of all.
+In front of me in the procession walked the great Bishop Berkeley,
+the man who turned the tables on the early materialists by maintaining
+that matter itself possibly does not exist. Dr. Johnson,
+you will remember, did not like such bottomless fancies as Berkeley's,
+and kicked a stone with his foot, saying, "I refute him so!"
+Now (as I pointed out) kicking a stone would not make the metaphysical
+quarrel quite clear; besides, it would hurt. But how picturesque
+and perfect it would be if I moved across the ground in the symbolic
+attitude of kicking Bishop Berkeley! How complete an allegoric group;
+the great transcendentalist walking with his head among the stars,
+but behind him the avenging realist pede claudo, with uplifted foot.
+But I must not take up space with these forgotten frivolities;
+we old men grow too garrulous in talking of the distant past.
+
+This story scarcely concerns me either in my real or my
+assumed character. Suffice it to say that the procession took place
+at night in a large garden and by torchlight (so remote is the date),
+that the garden was crowded with Puritans, monks, and men-at-arms,
+and especially with early Celtic saints smoking pipes,
+and with elegant Renaissance gentlemen talking Cockney.
+Suffice it to say, or rather it is needless to say, that I got lost.
+I wandered away into some dim corner of that dim shrubbery,
+where there was nothing to do except tumbling over tent ropes,
+and I began almost to feel like my prototype, and to share his
+horror of solitude and hatred of a country life.
+
+In this detachment and dilemma I saw another man in a white wig
+advancing across this forsaken stretch of lawn; a tall, lean man,
+who stooped in his long black robes like a stooping eagle.
+When I thought he would pass me, he stopped before my face,
+and said, "Dr. Johnson, I think. I am Paley."
+
+"Sir," I said, "you used to guide men to the beginnings of Christianity.
+If you can guide me now to wherever this infernal thing begins you
+will perform a yet higher and harder function."
+
+His costume and style were so perfect that for the instant I really
+thought he was a ghost. He took no notice of my flippancy, but,
+turning his black-robed back on me, led me through verdurous glooms
+and winding mossy ways, until we came out into the glare of gaslight
+and laughing men in masquerade, and I could easily laugh at myself.
+
+And there, you will say, was an end of the matter. I am
+(you will say) naturally obtuse, cowardly, and mentally deficient.
+I was, moreover, unused to pageants; I felt frightened in the dark
+and took a man for a spectre whom, in the light, I could recognise
+as a modern gentleman in a masquerade dress. No; far from it.
+That spectral person was my first introduction to a special incident
+which has never been explained and which still lays its finger
+on my nerve.
+
+I mixed with the men of the eighteenth century; and we fooled
+as one does at a fancy-dress ball. There was Burke as large as life
+and a great deal better looking. There was Cowper much larger
+than life; he ought to have been a little man in a night-cap,
+with a cat under one arm and a spaniel under the other.
+As it was, he was a magnificent person, and looked more
+like the Master of Ballantrae than Cowper. I persuaded him
+at last to the night-cap, but never, alas, to the cat and dog.
+When I came the next night Burke was still the same beautiful
+improvement upon himself; Cowper was still weeping for his dog
+and cat and would not be comforted; Bishop Berkeley was still waiting
+to be kicked in the interests of philosophy. In short, I met all
+my old friends but one. Where was Paley? I had been mystically
+moved by the man's presence; I was moved more by his absence.
+At last I saw advancing towards us across the twilight garden
+a little man with a large book and a bright attractive face.
+When he came near enough he said, in a small, clear voice, "I'm Paley."
+The thing was quite natural, of course; the man was ill and had
+sent a substitute. Yet somehow the contrast was a shock.
+
+By the next night I had grown quite friendly with my four
+or five colleagues; I had discovered what is called a mutual
+friend with Berkeley and several points of difference with Burke.
+Cowper, I think it was, who introduced me to a friend of his,
+a fresh face, square and sturdy, framed in a white wig.
+"This," he explained, "is my friend So-and-So. He's Paley."
+I looked round at all the faces by this time fixed and familiar;
+I studied them; I counted them; then I bowed to the third Paley
+as one bows to necessity. So far the thing was all within
+the limits of coincidence. It certainly seemed odd that this
+one particular cleric should be so varying and elusive.
+It was singular that Paley, alone among men, should swell and
+shrink and alter like a phantom, while all else remained solid.
+But the thing was explicable; two men had been ill and there
+was an end of it; only I went again the next night, and a
+clear-coloured elegant youth with powdered hair bounded up to me,
+and told me with boyish excitement that he was Paley.
+
+For the next twenty-four hours I remained in the mental condition
+of the modern world. I mean the condition in which all natural
+explanations have broken down and no supernatural explanation has
+been established. My bewilderment had reached to boredom when I
+found myself once more in the colour and clatter of the pageant,
+and I was all the more pleased because I met an old school-fellow,
+and we mutually recognised each other under our heavy clothes
+and hoary wigs. We talked about all those great things for which
+literature is too small and only life large enough; red-hot memories
+and those gigantic details which make up the characters of men.
+I heard all about the friends he had lost sight of and those he had
+kept in sight; I heard about his profession, and asked at last
+how he came into the pageant.
+
+"The fact is," he said, "a friend of mine asked me, just for to-night,
+to act a chap called Paley; I don't know who he was. . . ."
+
+"No, by thunder!" I said, "nor does anyone."
+
+This was the last blow, and the next night passed like a dream.
+I scarcely noticed the slender, sprightly, and entirely new figure
+which fell into the ranks in the place of Paley, so many times deceased.
+What could it mean? Why was the giddy Paley unfaithful among
+the faithful found? Did these perpetual changes prove the popularity
+or the unpopularity of being Paley? Was it that no human being
+could support being Paley for one night and live till morning?
+Or was it that the gates were crowded with eager throngs of the British
+public thirsting to be Paley, who could only be let in one at a time?
+Or is there some ancient vendetta against Paley? Does some secret
+society of Deists still assassinate any one who adopts the name?
+
+I cannot conjecture further about this true tale of mystery;
+and that for two reasons. First, the story is so true
+that I have had to put a lie into it. Every word of this
+narrative is veracious, except the one word Paley.
+And second, because I have got to go into the next room
+and dress up as Dr. Johnson.
+
+
+
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