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diff --git a/old/amnt210.txt b/old/amnt210.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b9ae44 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/amnt210.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6457 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Passages From The American Notebooks, +Volume 2., by Nathaniel Hawthorne +#24 in our series by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Passages From The American Notebooks, Volume 2. + +Author: Nathaniel Hawthorne + +Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8089] +[This file was first posted on June 13, 2003] +[Last updated on February 7, 2007] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AMERICAN NOTEBOOKS, V2 *** + + + + +Produced by Tapio Riikonen and David Widger + + + + +PASSAGES FROM THE AMERICAN NOTE-BOOKS + +OF + +NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE + + +VOL. II. + + + +[EXTRACTS FROM HIS PRIVATE LETTERS.] + + +Brook Farm, Oak Hill, April 13th, 1841.--. . . . Here I am in a polar +Paradise! I know not how to interpret this aspect of nature,--whether it +be of good or evil omen to our enterprise. But I reflect that the +Plymouth pilgrims arrived in the midst of storm, and stepped ashore upon +mountain snowdrifts; and, nevertheless, they prospered, and became a +great people,--and doubtless it will be the same with us. I laud my +stars, however, that you will not have your first impressions of +(perhaps) our future home from such a day as this. . . . Through faith, +I persist in believing that Spring and Summer will come in their due +season; but the unregenerated man shivers within me, and suggests a doubt +whether I may not have wandered within the precincts of the Arctic +Circle, and chosen my heritage among everlasting snows. . . . Provide +yourself with a good stock of furs, and, if you can obtain the skin of a +polar bear, you will find it a very suitable summer dress for this +region. . . . + +I have not yet taken my first lesson in agriculture, except that I went +to see our cows foddered, yesterday afternoon. We have eight of our own; +and the number is now increased by a transcendental heifer belonging to +Miss Margaret Fuller. She is very fractious, I believe, and apt to kick +over the milk-pail. . . . I intend to convert myself into a milkmaid +this evening, but I pray Heaven that Mr. Ripley may be moved to assign me +the kindliest cow in the herd, otherwise I shall perform my duty with +fear and trembling. . . . + +I like my brethren in affliction very well; and, could you see us sitting +round our table at meal-times, before the great kitchen fire, you would +call it a cheerful sight. Mrs. B------ is a most comfortable woman to +behold. She looks as if her ample person were stuffed full of +tenderness,--indeed, as if she were all one great, kind heart. + + * * * * * * + +April 14th, 10 A. M.--. . . . I did not milk the cows last night, because +Mr. Ripley was afraid to trust them to my hands, or me to their horns, I +know not which. But this morning I have done wonders. Before breakfast, +I went out to the barn and began to chop hay for the cattle, and with +such "righteous vehemence," as Mr. Ripley says, did I labor, that in the +space of ten minutes I broke the machine. Then I brought wood and +replenished the fires; and finally went down to breakfast, and ate up a +huge mound of buckwheat cakes. After breakfast, Mr. Ripley put a +four-pronged instrument into my hands, which he gave me to understand was +called a pitchfork; and he and Mr. Farley being armed with similar +weapons, we all three commenced a gallant attack upon a heap of manure. +This office being concluded, and I having purified myself, I sit down to +finish this letter. . . . + +Miss Fuller's cow hooks the other cows, and has made herself ruler of the +herd, and behaves in a very tyrannical manner. . . . I shall make an +excellent husbandman,--I feel the original Adam reviving within me. + + +April 16th.--. . . . Since I last wrote, there has been an addition to +our community of four gentlemen in sables, who promise to be among our +most useful and respectable members. They arrived yesterday about noon. +Mr. Ripley had proposed to them to join us, no longer ago than that very +morning. I had some conversation with them in the afternoon, and was +glad to hear them express much satisfaction with their new abode and all +the arrangements. They do not appear to be very communicative, however, +--or perhaps it may be merely an external reserve, like my own, to shield +their delicacy. Several of their prominent characteristics, as well as +their black attire, lead me to believe that they are members of the +clerical profession; but I have not yet ascertained from their own lips +what has been the nature of their past lives. I trust to have much +pleasure in their society, and, sooner or later, that we shall all of us +derive great strength from our intercourse with them. I cannot too +highly applaud the readiness with which these four gentlemen in black +have thrown aside all the fopperies and flummeries which have their +origin in a false state of society. When I last saw them, they looked as +heroically regardless of the stains and soils incident to our profession +as I did when I emerged from the gold-mine. . . . + +I have milked a cow!!! . . . . The herd has rebelled against the +usurpation of Miss Fuller's heifer; and, whenever they are turned out of +the barn, she is compelled to take refuge under our protection. So much +did she impede my labors by keeping close to me, that I found it +necessary to give her two or three gentle pats with a shovel; but still +she preferred to trust herself to my tender mercies, rather than venture +among the horns of the herd. She is not an amiable cow; but she has a +very intelligent face, and seems to be of a reflective cast of character. +I doubt not that she will soon perceive the expediency of being on good +terms with the rest of the sisterhood. + +I have not yet been twenty yards from our house and barn; but I begin to +perceive that this is a beautiful place. The scenery is of a mild and +placid character, with nothing bold in its aspect; but I think its +beauties will grow upon us, and make us love it the more, the longer we +live here. There is a brook, so near the house that we shall be able to +hear its ripple in the summer evenings, . . . . but, for agricultural +purposes, it has been made to flow in a straight and rectangular fashion, +which does it infinite damage as a picturesque object. . . . + +It was a moment or two before I could think whom you meant by Mr. Dismal +View. Why, he is one of the best of the brotherhood, so far as +cheerfulness goes; for if he do not laugh himself, he makes the rest of +us laugh continually. He is the quaintest and queerest personage you +ever saw,--full of dry jokes, the humor of which is so incorporated with +the strange twistifications of his physiognomy, that his sayings ought to +be written down, accompanied with illustrations by Cruikshank. Then he +keeps quoting innumerable scraps of Latin, and makes classical allusions, +while we are turning over the goldmine; and the contrast between the +nature of his employment and the character of his thoughts is +irresistibly ludicrous. + +I have written this epistle in the parlor, while Farmer Ripley, and +Farmer Farley, and Farmer Dismal View were talking about their +agricultural concerns. So you will not wonder if it is not a classical +piece of composition, either in point of thought or expression. + + * * * * * * + +Mr. Ripley has bought four black pigs. + + +April 22d.--. . . . What an abominable hand do I scribble! but I have +been chopping wood, and turning a grindstone all the forenoon; and such +occupations are apt to disturb the equilibrium of the muscles and sinews. +It is an endless surprise to me how much work there is to be done in the +world; but, thank God, I am able to do my share of it,--and my ability +increases daily. What a great, broad-shouldered, elephantine personage I +shall become by and by! + +I milked two cows this morning, and would send you some of the milk, only +that it is mingled with that which was drawn forth by Mr. Dismal View and +the rest of the brethren. + + +April 28th.--. . . . I was caught by a cold during my visit to Boston. +It has not affected my whole frame, but took entire possession of my +head, as being the weakest and most vulnerable part. Never did anybody +sneeze with such vehemence and frequency; and my poor brain has been in a +thick fog; or, rather, it seemed as if my head were stuffed with coarse +wool. . . . Sometimes I wanted to wrench it off, and give it a great +kick, like a football. + +This annoyance has made me endure the bad weather with even less than +ordinary patience; and my faith was so far exhausted that, when they told +me yesterday that the sun was setting clear, I would not even turn my +eyes towards the west. But this morning I am made all over anew, and +have no greater remnant of my cold than will serve as an excuse for doing +no work to-day. + +The family has been dismal and dolorous throughout the storm. The night +before last, William Allen was stung by a wasp on the eyelid; whereupon +the whole side of his face swelled to an enormous magnitude, so that, at +the breakfast-table, one half of him looked like a blind giant (the eye +being closed), and the other half had such a sorrowful and ludicrous +aspect that I was constrained to laugh out of sheer pity. The same day, +a colony of wasps was discovered in my chamber, where they had remained +throughout the winter, and were now just bestirring themselves, doubtless +with the intention of stinging me from head to foot A similar discovery +was made in Mr. Farley's room. In short, we seem to have taken up our +abode in a wasps' nest. Thus you see a rural life is not one of unbroken +quiet and serenity. + +If the middle of the day prove warm and pleasant, I promise myself to +take a walk. . . . I have taken one walk with Mr. Farley; and I could +not have believed that there was such seclusion at so short a distance +from a great city. Many spots seem hardly to have been visited for +ages,--not since John Eliot preached to the Indians here. If we were to +travel a thousand miles, we could not escape the world more completely +than we can here. + + * * * * * * + +I read no newspapers, and hardly remember who is President, and feel as +if I had no more concern with what other people trouble themselves about +than if I dwelt in another planet. + + +May 1st.--. . . . Every day of my life makes me feel more and more how +seldom a fact is accurately stated; how, almost invariably, when a story +has passed through the mind of a third person, it becomes, so far as +regards the impression that it makes in further repetitions, little +better than a falsehood, and this, too, though the narrator be the +most truth-seeking person in existence. How marvellous the tendency +is! . . . Is truth a fantasy which we are to pursue forever and never +grasp? + + * * * * * * + +My cold has almost entirely departed. Were it a sunny day, I should +consider myself quite fit for labor out of doors; but as the ground is so +damp, and the atmosphere so chill, and the sky so sullen, I intend to +keep myself on the sick-list this one day longer, more especially as I +wish to read Carlyle on Heroes. + + * * * * * * + +There has been but one flower found in this vicinity,--and that was an +anemone, a poor, pale, shivering little flower, that had crept under a +stone-wall for shelter. Mr. Farley found it, while taking a walk with +me. + +. . . . This is May-day! Alas, what a difference between the ideal and +the real! + + +May 4th.--. . . . My cold no longer troubles me, and all the morning I +have been at work under the clear blue sky, on a hillside. Sometimes it +almost seemed as if I were at work in the sky itself, though the material +in which I wrought was the ore from our gold-mine. Nevertheless, there +is nothing so unseemly and disagreeable in this sort of toil as you could +think. It defiles the hands, indeed, but not the soul. This gold ore is +a pure and wholesome substance, else our mother Nature would not devour +it so readily, and derive so much nourishment from it, and return such a +rich abundance of good grain and roots in requital of it. + +The farm is growing very beautiful now,--not that we yet see anything of +the peas and potatoes which we have planted; but the grass blushes green +on the slopes and hollows. I wrote that word "blush" almost +unconsciously; so we will let it go as an inspired utterance. + +When I go forth afield, . . . . I look beneath the stonewalls, where the +verdure is richest, in hopes that a little company of violets, or some +solitary bud, prophetic of the summer, may be there. . . . But not a +wildflower have I yet found. One of the boys gathered some yellow +cowslips last Sunday; but I am well content not to have found them, for +they are not precisely what I should like to send to you, though they +deserve honor and praise, because they come to us when no others will. +We have our parlor here dressed in evergreen as at Christmas. That +beautiful little flower-vase . . . . stands on Mr. Ripley's study-table, +at which I am now writing. It contains some daffodils and some +willow-blossoms. I brought it here rather than keep it in my chamber, +because I never sit there, and it gives me many pleasant emotions to look +round and be surprised--for it is often a surprise, though I well know +that it is there--by something connected with the idea [of a friend]. + + * * * * * * + +I do not believe that I should be patient here if I were not engaged in a +righteous and heaven-blessed way of life. When I was in the Custom-House +and then at Salem I was not half so patient. . . . + +We had some tableaux last evening, the principal characters being +sustained by Mr. Farley and Miss Ellen Slade. They went off very +well. . . . + +I fear it is time for me--sod-compelling as I am--to take the field +again. + + +May 11th.--. . . . This morning I arose at milking-time in good trim for +work; and we have been employed partly in an Augean labor of clearing out +a wood-shed, and partly in carting loads of oak. This afternoon I hope +to have something to do in the field, for these jobs about the house are +not at all to my taste. + + +June 1st.--. . . . I have been too busy to write a long letter by this +opportunity, for I think this present life of mine gives me an antipathy +to pen and ink, even more than my Custom-House experience did. . . . +In the midst of toil, or after a hard day's work in the goldmine, my +soul obstinately refuses to be poured out on paper. That abominable +gold-mine! Thank God, we anticipate getting rid of its treasures in the +course of two or three days! Of all hateful places that is the worst, +and I shall never comfort myself for having spent so many days of blessed +sunshine there. It is my opinion that a man's soul may be buried and +perish under a dung-heap, or in a furrow of the field, just as well as +under a pile of money. + +Mr. George Bradford will probably be here to-day, so that there will be +no danger of my being under the necessity of laboring more than I like +hereafter. Meantime my health is perfect, and my spirits buoyant, even +in the gold-mine. + + +August 12th.--. . . . I am very well, and not at all weary, for +yesterday's rain gave us a holiday; and, moreover, the labors of the farm +are not so pressing as they have been. And, joyful thought! in a little +more than a fortnight; I shall be free from my bondage,--. . . . free to +enjoy Nature,--free to think and feel! . . . . Even my Custom-House +experience was not such a thraldom and weariness; my mind and heart were +free. O, labor is the curse of the world, and nobody can meddle with it +without becoming proportionably brutified! Is it a praiseworthy matter +that I have spent five golden months in providing food for cows and +horses? It is not so. + + +August 18th.--I am very well, only somewhat tired with walking half a +dozen miles immediately after breakfast, and raking hay ever since. We +shall quite finish haying this week, and then there will be no more very +hard or constant labor during the one other week that I shall remain a +slave. + + +August 22d.--. . . . I had an indispensable engagement in the bean-field, +whither, indeed, I was glad to betake myself, in order to escape a +parting scene with ------. He was quite out of his wits the night +before, and I sat up with him till long past midnight. The farm is +pleasanter now that he is gone; for his unappeasable wretchedness threw a +gloom over everything. Since I last wrote, we have done haying, and the +remainder of my bondage will probably be light. It will be a long time, +however, before I shall know how to make a good use of leisure, either as +regards enjoyment or literary occupation. . . . + +It is extremely doubtful whether Mr. Ripley will succeed in locating his +community on this farm. He can bring Mr. E------ to no terms, and the +more they talk about the matter, the further they appear to be from a +settlement. We must form other plans for ourselves; for I can see few or +no signs that Providence purposes to give us a home here. I am weary, +weary, thrice weary, of waiting so many ages. Whatever may be my gifts, +I have not hitherto shown a single one that may avail to gather gold. I +confess that I have strong hopes of good from this arrangement with +M------; but when I look at the scanty avails of my past literary +efforts, I do not feel authorized to expect much from the future. Well, +we shall see. Other persons have bought large estates and built splendid +mansions with such little books as I mean to write; so that perhaps it is +not unreasonable to hope that mine may enable me to build a little +cottage, or, at least, to buy or hire one. But I am becoming more and +more convinced that we must not lean upon this community. Whatever is to +be done must be done by my own undivided strength. I shall not remain +here through the winter, unless with an absolute certainty that there +will be a house ready for us in the spring. Otherwise, I shall return to +Boston;--still, however, considering myself an associate of the +community, so that we may take advantage of any more favorable aspect of +affairs. How much depends on these little books! Methinks if anything +could draw out my whole strength, it would be the motives that now press +upon me. Yet, after all, I must keep these considerations out of my +mind, because an external pressure always disturbs instead of assisting +me. + + +Salem, September 3d.--. . . . But really I should judge it to be twenty +years since I left Brook Farm; and I take this to be one proof that my +life there was an unnatural and unsuitable, and therefore an unreal one. +It already looks like a dream behind me. The real Me was never an +associate of the community; there has been a spectral Appearance there, +sounding the horn at daybreak, and milking the cows, and hoeing potatoes, +and raking hay, toiling in the sun, and doing me the honor to assume my +name. But this spectre was not myself. Nevertheless, it is somewhat +remarkable that my hands have, during the past summer, grown very brown +and rough, insomuch that many people persist in believing that I, after +all, was the aforesaid spectral horn-sounder, cow-milker, potato-hoer, +and hay-raker. But such people do not know a reality from a shadow. +Enough of nonsense. I know not exactly how soon I shall return to the +farm. Perhaps not sooner than a fortnight, from to-morrow. + + +Salem, September 14th.--. . . . Master Cheever is a very good subject for +a sketch, especially if he be portrayed in the very act of executing +judgment on an evildoer. The little urchin may be laid across his knee, +and his arms and legs, and whole person indeed, should be flying all +abroad, in an agony of nervous excitement and corporeal smart. The +Master, on the other hand, must be calm, rigid, without anger or pity, +the very personification of that immitigable law whereby suffering +follows sin. Meantime the lion's head should have a sort of sly twist on +one side of its mouth, and a wink of one eye, in order to give the +impression that, after all, the crime and the punishment are neither of +them the most serious things in the world. I could draw the sketch +myself, if I had but the use of ------'s magic fingers. + +Then the Acadians will do very well for the second sketch. They might be +represented as just landing on the wharf; or as presenting themselves +before Governor Shirley, seated in the great chair. Another subject +might be old Cotton Mather, venerable in a three-cornered hat and other +antique attire, walking the streets of Boston, and lifting up his hands +to bless the people, while they all revile him. An old dame should be +seen, flinging water, or emptying some vials of medicine on his head from +the latticed window of an old-fashioned house; and all around must be +tokens of pestilence and mourning,--as a coffin borne along,--a woman or +children weeping on a doorstep. Can the tolling of the Old South bell be +painted? + +If not this, then the military council, holden at Boston by the Earl of +Loudon and other captains and governors, might be taken, his lordship in +the great chair, an old-fashioned, military figure, with a star on his +breast. Some of Louis XV.'s commanders will give the costume. On the +table, and scattered about the room, must be symbols of warfare,--swords, +pistols, plumed hats, a drum, trumpet, and rolled-up banner in one leap. +It were not amiss to introduce the armed figure of an Indian chief, as +taking part in the council,--or standing apart from the English, erect +and stern. + +Now for Liberty Tree. There is an engraving of that famous vegetable in +Snow's History of Boston. If represented, I see not what scene can be +beneath it, save poor Mr. Oliver, taking the oath. He must have on a +bag-wig, ruffled sleeves, embroidered coat, and all such ornaments, +because he is the representative of aristocracy and an artificial system. +The people may be as rough and wild as the fancy can make them; +nevertheless, there must be one or two grave, puritanical figures in the +midst. Such an one might sit in the great chair, and be an emblem of +that stern, considerate spirit which brought about the Revolution. But +this would be a hard subject. + +But what a dolt am I to obtrude my counsel. . . . + + +September 16th.--. . . . I do not very well recollect Monsieur du Miroir, +but, as to Mrs. Bullfrog, I give her up to the severest reprehension. +The story was written as a mere experiment in that style; it did not come +from any depth within me,--neither my heart nor mind had anything to do +with it. I recollect that the Man of Adamant seemed a fine idea to nee +when I looked at it prophetically; but I failed in giving shape and +substance to the vision which I saw. I don't think it can be very +good. . . . + +I cannot believe all these stories about ------, because such a rascal +never could be sustained and countenanced by respectable men. I take him +to be neither better nor worse than the average of his tribe. However, I +intend to have all my copyrights taken out in my own name; and, if he +cheat me once, I will have nothing more to do with him, but will +straightway be cheated by some other publisher,--that being, of course, +the only alternative. + +Governor Shirley's young French wife might be the subject of one of the +cuts. She should sit in the great chair,--perhaps with a dressing-glass +before her,--and arrayed in all manner of fantastic finery, and with an +outre French air, while the old Governor is leaning fondly over her, and +a puritanic councillor or two are manifesting their disgust in the +background. A negro footman and a French waiting-maid might be in +attendance. + +In Liberty Tree might be a vignette, representing the chair in a very +shattered, battered, and forlorn condition, after it had been ejected +from Hutchinson's house. This would serve to impress the reader with the +woful vicissitudes of sublunary things. . . . + +Did you ever behold such a vile scribble as I write since I became a +farmer? My chirography always was abominable, but now it is outrageous. + + +Brook Farm, September 22d, 1841.--. . . . Here I am again, slowly +adapting myself to the life of this queer community, whence I seem to +have been absent half a lifetime, so utterly have I grown apart from the +spirit, and manners of the place. . . . I was most kindly received; and +the fields and woods looked very pleasant in the bright sunshine of the +day before yesterday. I have a friendlier disposition towards the farm, +now that I am no longer obliged to toil in its stubborn furrows. +Yesterday and to-day, however, the weather has been intolerable,--cold, +chill, sullen, so that it is impossible to be on kindly terms with Mother +Nature. . . . + +I doubt whether I shall succeed in writing another volume of +Grandfather's Library while I remain here. I have not the sense of +perfect seclusion which has always been essential to my power of +producing anything. It is true, nobody intrudes into my room; but still +I cannot be quiet. Nothing here is settled; everything is but beginning +to arrange itself, and though I would seem to have little to do with +aught beside my own thoughts, still I cannot but partake of the ferment +around me. My mind will not be abstracted. I must observe, and think, +and feel, and content myself with catching glimpses of things which may +be wrought out hereafter. Perhaps it will be quite as well that I find +myself unable to set seriously about literary occupation for the present. +It will be good to have a longer interval between my labor of the body +and that of the mind. I shall work to the better purpose after the +beginning of November. Meantime I shall see these people and their +enterprise under a new point of view, and perhaps be able to determine +whether we have any call to cast in our lot among them. + + * * * * * * + +I do wish the weather would put off this sulky mood. Had it not been for +the warmth and brightness of Monday, when I arrived here, I should have +supposed that all sunshine had left Brook Farm forever. I have no +disposition to take long walks in such a state of the sky; nor have I any +buoyancy of spirit. I am a very dull person just at this time. + + +September 25th.--. . . . One thing is certain. I cannot and will not +spend the winter here. The time would be absolutely thrown away so far +as regards any literary labor to be performed. . . . + +The intrusion of an outward necessity into labors of the imagination and +intellect is, to me, very painful. . . . + +I had rather a pleasant walk to a distant meadow a day or two ago, and we +found white and purple grapes in great abundance, ripe, and gushing with +rich, pure juice when the hand pressed the clusters. Did you know what +treasures of wild grapes there are in this land? If we dwell here, we +will make our own wine. . . . + + +September 27th.--. . . . Now, as to the affair with ------, I fully +confide in your opinion that he intends to make an unequal bargain with +poor, simple, innocent me,--never having doubted this myself. But how is +he to accomplish it? I am not, nor shall be, the least in his power, +whereas he is, to a certain extent, in mine. He might announce his +projected Library, with me for the editor, in all the newspapers in the +universe; but still I could not be bound to become the editor, unless by +my own act; nor should I have the slightest scruple in refusing to be so, +at the last moment, if he persisted in treating me with injustice. Then, +as for his printing Grandfather's Chair, I have the copyright in my own +hands, and could and would prevent the sale, or make him account to me +for the profits, in case of need. Meantime he is making arrangements for +publishing the Library, contracting with other booksellers, and with +printers and engravers, and, with every step, making it more difficult +for himself to draw back. I, on the other hand, do nothing which I +should not do if the affair with ------ were at an end; for, if I write a +book, it will be just as available for some other publisher as for him. +Instead of getting me into his power by this delay, he has trusted to my +ignorance and simplicity, and has put himself in my power. + +He is not insensible of this. At our last interview, he himself +introduced the subject of the bargain, and appeared desirous to close it. +But I was not prepared,--among other reasons, because I do not yet see +what materials I shall have for the republications in the Library; the +works that he has shown me being ill adapted for that purpose; and I wish +first to see some French and German books which he has sent for to New +York. And, before concluding the bargain, I have promised George Hillard +to consult him, and let him do the business. Is not this consummate +discretion? and am I not perfectly safe? . . . . I look at the matter +with perfect composure, and see all round my own position, and know that +it is impregnable. + + * * * * * * + +I was elected to two high offices last night,--viz. to be a trustee of +the Brook Farm estate, and Chairman of the Committee of Finance! . . . . +From the nature of my office, I shall have the chief direction of all the +money affairs of the community, the making of bargains, the supervision +of receipts and expenditures, etc., etc., etc. . . . + +My accession to these august offices does not at all decide the question +of my remaining here permanently. I told Mr. Ripley that I could not +spend the winter at the farm, and that it was quite uncertain whether I +returned in the spring. . . . + +Take no part, I beseech you, in these magnetic miracles. I am unwilling +that a power should be exercised on you of which we know neither the +origin nor consequence, and the phenomena of which seem rather calculated +to bewilder us than to teach us any truths about the present or future +state of being. . . . Supposing that the power arises from the +transfusion of one spirit into another, it seems to me that the +sacredness of an individual is violated by it; there would be an intruder +into the holy of holies. . . . I have no faith whatever, that people +are raised to the seventh heaven, or to any heaven at all, or that they +gain any insight into the mysteries of life beyond death by means of this +strange science. Without distrusting that the phenomena have really +occurred, I think that they are to be accounted for as the result of a +material and physical, not of a spiritual, influence. Opium has produced +many a brighter vision of heaven, I fancy, and just as susceptible of +proof as these. They are dreams. . . . And what delusion can be more +lamentable and mischievous, than to mistake the physical and material for +the spiritual? what so miserable as to lose the soul's true, though +hidden knowledge and consciousness of heaven in the mist of an earth-born +vision? If we would know what heaven is before we come thither, let us +retire into the depths of our own spirits, and we shall find it there +among holy thoughts and feelings; but let us not degrade high heaven +and its inhabitants into any such symbols and forms as Miss L------ +describes; do not let an earthly effluence from Mrs. P------'s corporeal +system bewilder and perhaps contaminate something spiritual and sacred. +I should as soon think of seeking revelations of the future state in the +rottenness of the grave,--where so many do seek it. . . . + +The view which I take of this matter is caused by no want of faith in +mysteries; but from a deep reverence of the soul, and of the mysteries +which it knows within itself, but never transmits to the earthly eye and +ear. Keep the imagination sane,--that is one of the truest conditions of +communion with heaven. + + +Brook Farm, September 26th.--A walk this morning along the Needham road. +A clear, breezy morning, after nearly a week of cloudy and showery +weather. The grass is much more fresh and vivid than it was last month, +and trees still retain much of their verdure, though here and there is a +shrub or a bough arrayed in scarlet and gold. Along the road, in the +midst of a beaten track, I saw mushrooms or toadstools which had sprung +up probably during the night. + +The houses in this vicinity are, many of them, quite antique, with long, +sloping roots, commencing at a few feet from the ground, and ending in a +lofty peak. Some of them have huge old elms overshadowing the yard. One +may see the family sleigh near the door, it having stood there all +through the summer sunshine, and perhaps with weeds sprouting through the +crevices of its bottom, the growth of the months since snow departed. +Old barns, patched and supported by timbers leaning against the sides, +and stained with the excrement of past ages. + +In the forenoon I walked along the edge of the meadow towards Cow Island. +Large trees, almost a wood, principally of pine with the green +pasture-glades intermixed, and cattle feeding. They cease grazing when +an intruder appears, and look at him with long and wary observation, then +bend their heads to the pasture again. Where the firm ground of the +pasture ceases, the meadow begins, loose, spongy, yielding to the tread, +sometimes permitting the foot to sink into black mud, or perhaps over +ankles in water. Cattle-paths, somewhat firmer than the general surface, +traverse the dense shrubbery which has overgrown the meadow. This +shrubbery consists of small birch, elders, maples, and other trees, with +here and there white-pines of larger growth. The whole is tangled and +wild and thick-set, so that it is necessary to part the nestling stems +and branches, and go crashing through. There are creeping plants of +various sorts which clamber up the trees; and some of them have changed +color in the slight frosts which already have befallen these low grounds, +so that one sees a spiral wreath of scarlet leaves twining up to the top +of a green tree, intermingling its bright hues with their verdure, as if +all were of one piece. Sometimes, instead of scarlet, the spiral wreath +is of a golden yellow. + +Within the verge of the meadow, mostly near the firm shore of pasture +ground, I found several grapevines, hung with an abundance of large +purple grapes. The vines had caught hold of maples and alders, and +climbed to the summit, curling round about and interwreathing their +twisted folds in so intimate a manner that it was not easy to tell the +parasite from the supporting tree or shrub. Sometimes the same vine had +enveloped several shrubs, and caused a strange, tangled confusion, +converting all these poor plants to the purpose of its own support, and +hindering their growing to their own benefit and convenience. The broad +vine-leaves, some of them yellow or yellowish-tinged, were seen +apparently growing on the same stems with the silver-mapled leaves, and +those of the other shrubs, thus married against their will by the +conjugal twine; and the purple clusters of grapes hung down from above +and in the midst so that one might "gather grapes," if not "of thorns," +yet of as alien bushes. + +One vine had ascended almost to the tip of a large white-pine, spreading +its leaves and hanging its purple clusters among all its boughs,--still +climbing and clambering, as if it would not be content till it had +crowned the very summit with a wreath of its own foliage and bunches of +grapes. I mounted high into the tree, and ate the fruit there, while the +vine wreathed still higher into the depths above my head. The grapes +were sour, being not yet fully ripe. Some of them, however, were sweet +and pleasant. + + +September 27th.--A ride to Brighton yesterday morning, it being the day +of the weekly cattle-fair. William Allen and myself went in a wagon, +carrying a calf to be sold at the fair. The calf had not had his +breakfast, as his mother had preceded him to Brighton, and he kept +expressing his hunger and discomfort by loud, sonorous baas, especially +when we passed any cattle in the fields or in the road. The cows, +grazing within hearing, expressed great interest, and some of them came +galloping to the roadside to behold the calf. Little children, also, on +their way to school, stopped to laugh and point at poor little Bessie. +He was a prettily behaved urchin, and kept thrusting his hairy muzzle +between William and myself, apparently wishing to be stroked and patted. +It was an ugly thought that his confidence in human nature, and nature in +general, was to be so ill rewarded as by cutting his throat, and selling +him in quarters. This, I suppose, has been his fate before now! + +It was a beautiful morning, clear as crystal, with an invigorating, but +not disagreeable coolness. The general aspect of the country was as +green as summer,--greener indeed than mid or latter summer,--and there +were occasional interminglings of the brilliant hues of autumn, which +made the scenery more beautiful, both visibly and in sentiment. We saw +no absolutely mean nor poor-looking abodes along the road. There were +warm and comfortable farm-houses, ancient, with the porch, the sloping +roof, the antique peak, the clustered chimney, of old times; and modern +cottages, smart and tasteful; and villas, with terraces before them, and +dense shade, and wooden urns on pillars, and other such tokens of +gentility. Pleasant groves of oak and walnut, also, there were, +sometimes stretching along valleys, sometimes ascending a hill and +clothing it all round, so as to make it a great clump of verdure. +Frequently we passed people with cows, oxen, sheep, or pigs for Brighton +Fair. + +On arriving at Brighton, we found the village thronged with people, +horses, and vehicles. Probably there is no place in New England where +the character of an agricultural population may be so well studied. +Almost all the farmers within a reasonable distance make it a point, I +suppose, to attend Brighton Fair pretty frequently, if not on business, +yet as amateurs. Then there are all the cattle-people and butchers who +supply the Boston market, and dealers from far and near; and every man +who has a cow or a yoke of oxen, whether to sell or buy, goes to Brighton +on Monday. There were a thousand or two of cattle in the extensive pens +belonging to the tavern-keeper, besides many that were standing about. +One could hardly stir a step without running upon the horns of one +dilemma or another, in the shape of ox, cow, bull, or ram. The yeomen +appeared to be more in their element than I have ever seen them anywhere +else, except, indeed, at labor,--more so than at musterings and such +gatherings of amusement. And yet this was a sort of festal day, as well +as a day of business. Most of the people were of a bulky make, with much +bone and muscle, and some good store of fat, as if they had lived on +flesh-diet; with mottled faces, too, hard and red, like those of persons +who adhered to the old fashion of spirit-drinking. Great, round-paunched +country squires were there too, sitting under the porch of the tavern, or +waddling about, whip in hand, discussing the points of the cattle. There +were also gentlemen-farmers, neatly, trimly, and fashionably dressed, in +handsome surtouts, and trousers strapped under their boots. Yeomen, too, +in their black or blue Sunday suits, cut by country tailors, and +awkwardly worn. Others (like myself) had on the blue stuff frocks which +they wear in the fields, the most comfortable garments that ever were +invented. Country loafers were among the throng,--men who looked +wistfully at the liquors in the bar, and waited for some friend to invite +them to drink,--poor, shabby, out-at-elbowed devils. Also, dandies from +the city, corseted and buckramed, who had come to see the humors of +Brighton Fair. All these, and other varieties of mankind, either +thronged the spacious bar-room of the hotel, drinking, smoking, talking, +bargaining, or walked about among the cattle-pens, looking with knowing +eyes at the horned people. The owners of the cattle stood near at hand, +waiting for offers. There was something indescribable in their aspect, +that showed them to be the owners, though they mixed among the crowd. +The cattle, brought from a hundred separate farms, or rather from a +thousand, seemed to agree very well together, not quarrelling in the +least. They almost all had a history, no doubt, if they could but have +told it. The cows had each given her milk to support families,--had +roamed the pastures, and come home to the barn-yard, had been looked upon +as a sort of member of the domestic circle, and was known by a name, as +Brindle or Cherry. The oxen, with their necks bent by the heavy yoke, +had toiled in the plough-field and in haying-time for many years, and +knew their master's stall as well as the master himself knew his own +table. Even the young steers and the little calves had something of +domestic sacredness about them; for children had watched their growth, +and petted them, and played with them. And here they all were, old and +young, gathered from their thousand homes to Brighton Fair; whence the +great chance was that they would go to the slaughter-house, and thence be +transmitted, in sirloins, joints, and such pieces, to the tables of the +Boston folk. + +William Allen had come to buy four little pigs to take the places of four +who have now grown large at our farm, and are to be fatted and killed +within a few weeks. There were several hundreds, in pens appropriated to +their use, grunting discordantly, and apparently in no very good humor +with their companions or the world at large. Most or many of these pigs +had been imported from the State of New York. The drovers set out with a +large number, and peddle them along the road till they arrive at Brighton +with the remainder. William selected four, and bought them at five cents +per pound. These poor little porkers were forthwith seized by the tails, +their legs tied, and they thrown into our wagon, where they kept up a +continual grunt and squeal till we got home. Two of them were yellowish, +or light gold-color, the other two were black and white speckled; and all +four of very piggish aspect and deportment. One of them snapped at +William's finger most spitefully, and bit it to the bone. + +All the scene of the Fair was very characteristic and peculiar,--cheerful +and lively, too, in the bright, warm sun. I must see it again; for it +ought to be studied. + + +September 28th.--A picnic party in the woods, yesterday, in honor of +little Frank Dana's birthday, he being six years old. I strolled out, +after dinner, with Mr. Bradford, and in a lonesome glade we met the +apparition of an Indian chief, dressed in appropriate costume of blanket, +feathers, and paint, and armed with a musket. Almost at the same time, a +young gypsy fortune-teller came from among the trees, and proposed to +tell my fortune. While she was doing this, the goddess Diana let fly an +arrow, and hit me smartly in the hand. The fortune-teller and goddess +were in fine contrast, Diana being a blonde, fair, quiet, with a moderate +composure; and the gypsy (O. G.) a bright, vivacious, dark-haired, +rich-complexioned damsel,--both of them very pretty, at least pretty +enough to make fifteen years enchanting. Accompanied by these denizens +of the wild wood, we went onward, and came to a company of fantastic +figures, arranged in a ring for a dance or a game. There was a Swiss +girl, an Indian squaw, a negro of the Jim Crow order, one or two +foresters, and several people in Christian attire, besides children of +all ages. Then followed childish games, in which the grown people took +part with mirth enough,--while I, whose nature it is to be a mere +spectator both of sport and serious business, lay under the trees and +looked on. Meanwhile, Mr. Emerson and Miss Fuller, who arrived an hour +or two before, came forth into the little glade where we were assembled. +Here followed much talk. The ceremonies of the day concluded with a cold +collation of cakes and fruit. All was pleasant enough,--an excellent +piece of work,--"would 't were done!" It has left a fantastic impression +on my memory, this intermingling of wild and fabulous characters with +real and homely ones, in the secluded nook of the woods. I remember +them, with the sunlight breaking through overshadowing branches, and they +appearing and disappearing confusedly,--perhaps starting out of the +earth; as if the every-day laws of nature were suspended for this +particular occasion. There were the children, too, laughing and sporting +about, as if they were at home among such strange shapes,--and anon +bursting into loud uproar of lamentation, when the rude gambols of the +merry archers chanced to overturn them. And apart, with a shrewd, Yankee +observation of the scene, stands our friend Orange, a thick-set, sturdy +figure, enjoying the fun well enough, yet rather laughing with a +perception of its nonsensicalness than at all entering into the spirit of +the thing. + +This morning I have been helping to gather apples. The principal farm +labors at this time are ploughing for winter rye, and breaking up the + +greensward for next year's crop of potatoes, gathering squashes, and not +much else, except such year-round employments as milking. The crop of +rye, to be sure, is in process of being thrashed, at odd intervals. + +I ought to have mentioned among the diverse and incongruous growths of +the picnic party our two Spanish boys from Manilla;--Lucas, with his +heavy features and almost mulatto complexion; and Jose, slighter, with +rather a feminine face,--not a gay, girlish one, but grave, reserved, +eying you sometimes with an earnest but secret expression, and causing +you to question what sort of person he is. + + +Friday, October 1st.--I have been looking at our four swine,--not of the +last lot, but those in process of fattening. They lie among the clean +rye straw in the sty, nestling close together; for they seem to be beasts +sensitive to the cold, and this is a clear, bright, crystal morning, with +a cool northwest-wind. So there lie these four black swine, as deep +among the straw as they can burrow, the very symbols of slothful ease and +sensuous comfort. They seem to be actually oppressed and overburdened +with comfort. They are quick to notice any one's approach, and utter a +low grunt thereupon,--not drawing a breath for that particular purpose, +but grunting with their ordinary breath,--at the same time turning an +observant, though dull and sluggish eye upon the visitor. They seem to +be involved and buried in their own corporeal substance, and to look +dimly forth at the outer world. They breathe not easily, and yet not +with difficulty nor discomfort; for the very unreadiness and oppression +with which their breath cones appears to make them sensible of the deep +sensual satisfaction which they feel. Swill, the remnant of their last +meal, remains in the trough, denoting that their food is more abundant +than even a hog can demand. Anon they fall asleep, drawing short and +heavy breaths, which heave their huge sides up and down; but at the +slightest noise they sluggishly unclose their eyes, and give another +gentle grunt. They also grunt among themselves, without any external +cause; but merely to express their swinish sympathy. I suppose it is the +knowledge that these four grunters are doomed to die within two or three +weeks that gives them a sort of awfulness in my conception. It makes me +contrast their present gross substance of fleshly life with the +nothingness speedily to come. Meantime the four newly bought pigs are +running about the cow-yard, lean, active, shrewd, investigating +everything, as their nature is. When I throw an apple among them, they +scramble with one another for the prize, and the successful one scampers +away to eat it at leisure. They thrust their snouts into the mud, and +pick a grain of corn out of the rubbish. Nothing within their sphere do +they leave unexamined, grunting all the time with infinite variety of +expression. Their language is the most copious of that of any quadruped, +and, indeed, there is something deeply and indefinably interesting in the +swinish race. They appear the more a mystery the longer one gazes at +them. It seems as if there were an important meaning to them, if one +could but find it out. One interesting trait in them is their perfect +independence of character. They care not for man, and will not adapt +themselves to his notions, as other beasts do; but are true to +themselves, and act out their hoggish nature. + + +October 7th.--Since Saturday last (it being now Thursday), I have been in +Boston and Salem, and there has been a violent storm and rain during the +whole time. This morning shone as bright as if it meant to make up for +all the dismalness of the past days. Our brook, which in the summer was +no longer a running stream, but stood in pools along its pebbly course, +is now full from one grassy verge to the other, and hurries along with a +murmuring rush. It will continue to swell, I suppose, and in the winter +and spring it will flood all the broad meadows through which it flows. + +I have taken a long walk this forenoon along the Needham road, and across +the bridge, thence pursuing a cross-road through the woods, parallel with +the river, which I crossed again at Dedham. Most of the road lay through +a growth of young oaks principally. They still retain their verdure, +though, looking closely in among them, one perceives the broken sunshine +falling on a few sere or bright-hued tufts of shrubbery. In low, marshy +spots, on the verge of the meadows or along the river-side, there is a +much more marked autumnal change. Whole ranges of bushes are there +painted with many variegated lines, not of the brightest tint, but of a +sober cheerfulness. I suppose this is owing more to the late rains than +to the frost; for a heavy rain changes the foliage somewhat at this +season. The first marked frost was seen last Saturday morning. Soon +after sunrise it lay, white as snow, over all the grass, and on the tops +of the fences, and in the yard, on the heap of firewood. On Sunday, I +think, there was a fall of snow, which, however, did not lie on the +ground a moment. + +There is no season when such pleasant and sunny spots may be lighted on, +and produce so pleasant an effect on the feelings, as now in October. +The sunshine is peculiarly genial; and in sheltered places, as on the +side of a bank, or of a barn or house, one becomes acquainted and +friendly with the sunshine. It seems to be of a kindly and homely +nature. And the green grass, strewn with a few withered leaves, looks +the more green and beautiful for them. In summer or spring, Nature is +farther from one's sympathies. + + +October 8th.--Another gloomy day, lowering with portents of rain close at +hand. I have walked up into the pastures this morning, and looked about +me a little. The woods present a very diversified appearance just now, +with perhaps more varieties of tint than they are destined to wear at a +somewhat later period. There are some strong yellow hues, and some deep +red; there are innumerable shades of green, some few having the depth of +summer; others, partially changed towards yellow, look freshly verdant +with the delicate tinge of early summer or of May. Then there is the +solemn and dark green of the pines. The effect is, that every tree in +the wood and every bush among the shrubbery has a separate existence, +since, confusedly intermingled, each wears its peculiar color, instead of +being lost in the universal emerald of summer. And yet there is a +oneness of effect likewise, when we choose to look at a whole sweep of +woodland instead of analyzing its component trees. Scattered over the +pasture, which the late rains have kept tolerably green, there are spots +or islands of dusky red,--a deep, substantial line, very well fit to be +close to the ground,--while the yellow, and light, fantastic shades of +green soar upward to the sky. These red spots are the blueberry and +whortleberry bushes. The sweetfern is changed mostly to russet, but +still retains its wild and delightful fragrance when pressed in the hand. +Wild China-asters are scattered about, but beginning to wither. A little +while ago, mushrooms or toadstools were very numerous along the +wood-paths and by the roadsides, especially after rain. Some were of +spotless white, some yellow, and some scarlet. They are always mysteries +and objects of interest to me, springing as they do so suddenly from no +root or seed, and growing one wonders why. I think, too, that some +varieties are pretty objects, little fairy tables, centre-tables, +standing on one leg. But their growth appears to be checked now, and +they are of a brown tint and decayed. + +The farm business to-day is to dig potatoes. I worked a little at it. +The process is to grasp all the stems of a hill and pull them up. A +great many of the potatoes are thus pulled, clinging to the stems and to +one another in curious shapes,--long red things, and little round ones, +imbedded in the earth which clings to the roots. These being plucked +off, the rest of the potatoes are dug out of the hill with a hoe, the +tops being flung into a heap for the cow-yard. On my way home, I paused +to inspect the squash-field. Some of the squashes lay in heaps as they +were gathered, presenting much variety of shape and hue,--as golden +yellow, like great lumps of gold, dark green, striped and variegated; and +some were round, and some lay curling their long necks, nestling, as it +were, and seeming as if they had life. + +In my walk yesterday forenoon I passed an old house which seemed +to be quite deserted. It was a two-story, wooden house, dark and +weather-beaten. The front windows, some of them, were shattered and +open, and others were boarded up. Trees and shrubbery were growing +neglected, so as quite to block up the lower part. There was an aged +barn near at hand, so ruinous that it had been necessary to prop it up. +There were two old carts, both of which had lost a wheel. Everything was +in keeping. At first I supposed that there would be no inhabitants in +such a dilapidated place; but, passing on, I looked back, and saw a +decrepit and infirm old man at the angle of the house, its fit occupant. +The grass, however, was very green and beautiful around this dwelling, +and, the sunshine falling brightly on it, the whole effect was cheerful +and pleasant. It seemed as if the world was so glad that this desolate +old place, where there was never to be any more hope and happiness, could +not at all lessen the general effect of joy. + +I found a small turtle by the roadside, where he had crept to warm +himself in the genial sunshine. He had a sable back, and underneath his +shell was yellow, and at the edges bright scarlet. His head, tail, and +claws were striped yellow, black, and red. He withdrew himself as far as +he possibly could into his shell, and absolutely refused to peep out, +even when I put him into the water. Finally, I threw him into a deep +pool and left him. These mailed gentlemen, from the size of a foot or +more down to an inch, were very numerous in the spring; and now the + +smaller kind appear again. + + +Saturday, October 9th.--Still dismal weather. Our household, being +composed in great measure of children and young people, is generally a +cheerful one enough, even in gloomy weather. For a week past we have +been especially gladdened with a little seamstress from Boston, about +seventeen years old; but of such a petite figure, that, at first view, +one would take her to be hardly in her teens. She is very vivacious and +smart, laughing and singing and talking all the time,--talking sensibly; +but still taking the view of matters that a city girl naturally would. +If she were larger than she is, and of less pleasing aspect, I think she +might be intolerable; but being so small, and with a fair skin, and as +healthy as a wild-flower, she is really very agreeable; and to look at +her face is like being shone upon by a ray of the sun. She never walks, +but bounds and dances along, and this motion, in her diminutive person, +does not give the idea of violence. It is like a bird, hopping from twig +to twig, and chirping merrily all the time. Sometimes she is rather +vulgar, but even that works well enough into her character, and accords +with it. On continued observation, one discovers that she is not a +little girl, but really a little woman, with all the prerogatives and +liabilities of a woman. This gives a new aspect to her, while the +girlish impression still remains, and is strangely combined with the +sense that this frolicsome maiden has the material for the sober bearing +of a wife. She romps with the boys, runs races with them in the yard, +and up and down the stairs, and is heard scolding laughingly at their +rough play. She asks William Allen to place her "on top of that horse," +whereupon he puts his large brown hands about her waist, and, swinging +her to and fro, lifts her on horseback. William threatens to rivet two +horseshoes round her neck, for having clambered, with the other girls and +boys, upon a load of hay, whereby the said load lost its balance and slid +off the cart. She strings the seed-berries of roses together, making a +scarlet necklace of them, which she fastens about her throat. She +gathers flowers of everlasting to wear in her bonnet, arranging them with +the skill of a dress-maker. In the evening, she sits singing by the +hour, with the musical part of the establishment, often breaking into +laughter, whereto she is incited by the tricks of the boys. The last +thing one hears of her, she is tripping up stairs to bed, talking +lightsomely or warbling; and one meets her in the morning, the very image +of bright morn itself, smiling briskly at you, so that one takes her for +a promise of cheerfulness through the day. Be it said, with all the +rest, that there is a perfect maiden modesty in her deportment. She has +just gone away, and the last I saw of her was her vivacious face peeping +through the curtain of the cariole, and nodding a gay farewell to the +family, who were shouting their adieus at the door. With her other +merits, she is an excellent daughter, and supports her mother by the +labor of her hands. It would be difficult to conceive beforehand how +much can be added to the enjoyment of a household by mere sunniness of +temper and liveliness of disposition; for her intellect is very ordinary, +and she never says anything worth hearing, or even laughing at, in +itself. But she herself is an expression well worth studying. + + +Brook Farm, October 9th.--A walk this afternoon to Cow Island. The +clouds had broken away towards noon, and let forth a few sunbeams, and +more and more blue sky ventured to appear, till at last it was really +warm and sunny,--indeed, rather too warm in the sheltered hollows, though +it is delightful to be too warm now, after so much stormy chillness. O +the beauty of grassy slopes, and the hollow ways of paths winding between +hills, and the intervals between the road and wood-lots, where Summer +lingers and sits down, strewing dandelions of gold, and blue asters, as +her parting gifts and memorials! I went to a grapevine, which I have +already visited several times, and found some clusters of grapes still +remaining, and now perfectly ripe. Coming within view of the river, I +saw several wild ducks under the shadow of the opposite shore, which was +high, and covered with a grove of pines. I should not have discovered +the ducks had they not risen and skimmed the surface of the glassy +stream, breaking its dark water with a bright streak, and, sweeping +round, gradually rose high enough to fly away. I likewise started a +partridge just within the verge of the woods, and in another place a +large squirrel ran across the wood-path from one shelter of trees to the +other. Small birds, in flocks, were flitting about the fields, seeking +and finding I know not what sort of food. There were little fish, also, +darting in shoals through the pools and depths of the brooks, which are +now replenished to their brims, and rush towards the river with a swift, +amber-colored current. + +Cow Island is not an island,--at least, at this season,--though, I +believe, in the time of freshets, the marshy Charles floods the meadows +all round about it, and extends across its communication with the +mainland. The path to it is a very secluded one, threading a wood of +pines, and just wide enough to admit the loads of meadow hay which are +drawn from the splashy shore of the river. The island has a growth of +stately pines, with tall and ponderous stems, standing at distance enough +to admit the eve to travel far among them; and, as there is no +underbrush, the effect is somewhat like looking among the pillars of a +church. + +I returned home by the high-road. On my right, separated from the road +by a level field, perhaps fifty yards across, was a range of young +forest-trees, dressed in their garb of autumnal glory. The sun shone +directly upon them; and sunlight is like the breath of life to the pomp +of autumn. In its absence, one doubts whether there be any truth in what +poets have told about the splendor of an American autumn; but when this +charm is added, one feels that the effect is beyond description. As I +beheld it to-day, there was nothing dazzling; it was gentle and mild, +though brilliant and diversified, and had a most quiet and pensive +influence. And yet there were some trees that seemed really made of +sunshine, and others were of a sunny red, and the whole picture was +painted with but little relief of darksome lines, only a few evergreens. +But there was nothing inharmonious; and, on closer examination, it +appeared that all the tints had a relationship among themselves. And +this, I suppose, is the reason that, while nature seems to scatter them +so carelessly, they still never shock the beholder by their contrasts, +nor disturb, but only soothe. The brilliant scarlet and the brilliant +yellow are different lines of the maple-leaves, and the first changes +into the last. I saw one maple-tree, its centre yellow as gold, set in a +framework of red. The native poplars have different shades of green, +verging towards yellow, and are very cheerful in the sunshine. Most of +the oak-leaves have still the deep verdure of summer; but where a change +has taken place, it is into a russet-red, warm, but sober. These colors, +infinitely varied by the progress which different trees have made in +their decay, constitute almost the whole glory of autumnal woods; but it +is impossible to conceive how much is done with such scanty materials. +In my whole walk I saw only one man, and he was at a distance, in the +obscurity of the trees. He had a horse and a wagon, and was getting a +load of dry brushwood. + + +Sunday, October 10th.--I visited my grapevine this afternoon, and ate the +last of its clusters. This vine climbs around a young maple-tree, which +has now assumed the yellow leaf. The leaves of the vine are more decayed +than those of the maple. Thence to Cow Island, a solemn and thoughtful +walk. Returned by another path of the width of a wagon, passing through +a grove of hard wood, the lightsome hues of which make the walk more +cheerful than among the pines. The roots of oaks emerged from the soil, +and contorted themselves across the path. The sunlight, also, broke +across in spots, and otherwheres the shadow was deep; but still there was +intermingling enough of bright hues to keep off the gloom from the whole +path. + +Brooks and pools have a peculiar aspect at this season. One knows that +the water must be cold, and one shivers a little at the sight of it; and +yet the grass about the pool may be of the deepest green, and the sun may +be shining into it. The withered leaves which overhanging trees shed +upon its surface contribute much to the effect. + +Insects have mostly vanished in the fields and woods. I hear locusts +yet, singing in the sunny hours, and crickets have not yet finished their +song. Once in a while I see a caterpillar,--this afternoon, for +instance, a red, hairy one, with black head and tail. They do not appear +to be active, and it makes one rather melancholy to look at them. + + +Tuesday, October 12th.--The cawing of the crow resounds among the woods. +A sentinel is aware of your approach a great way off, and gives the alarm +to his comrades loudly and eagerly,--Caw, caw, caw! Immediately the +whole conclave replies, and you behold them rising above the trees, +flapping darkly, and winging their way to deeper solitudes. Sometimes, +however, they remain till you come near enough to discern their sable +gravity of aspect, each occupying a separate bough, or perhaps the +blasted tip-top of a pine. As you approach, one after another, with loud +cawing, flaps his wings and throws himself upon the air. + +There is hardly a more striking feature in the landscape nowadays than +the red patches of blueberry and whortleberry bushes, as seen on a +sloping hillside, like islands among the grass, with trees growing in +them; or crowning the summit of a bare, brown hill with their somewhat +russet liveliness; or circling round the base of an earth-imbedded rock. +At a distance, this hue, clothing spots and patches of the earth, looks +more like a picture than anything else,--yet such a picture as I never +saw painted. + +The oaks are now beginning to look sere, and their leaves have withered +borders. It is pleasant to notice the wide circle of greener grass +beneath the circumference of an overshadowing oak. Passing an orchard, +one hears an uneasy rustling in the trees, and not as if they were +struggling with the wind. Scattered about are barrels to contain the +gathered apples; and perhaps a great heap of golden or scarlet apples is +collected in one place. + + +Wednesday, October 13th.--A good view, from an upland swell of our +pasture, across the valley of the river Charles. There is the meadow, as +level as a floor, and carpeted with green, perhaps two miles from the +rising ground on this side of the river to that on the opposite side. +The stream winds through the midst of the flat space, without any banks +at all; for it fills its bed almost to the brim, and bathes the meadow +grass on either side. A tuft of shrubbery, at broken intervals, is +scattered along its border; and thus it meanders sluggishly along, +without other life than what it gains from gleaming in the sun. Now, +into the broad, smooth meadow, as into a lake, capes and headlands put +themselves forth, and shores of firm woodland border it, covered with +variegated foliage, making the contrast so much the stronger of their +height and rough outline with the even spread of the plain. And beyond, +and far away, rises a long, gradual swell of country, covered with an +apparently dense growth of foliage for miles, till the horizon terminates +it; and here and there is a house, or perhaps two, among the contiguity +of trees. Everywhere the trees wear their autumnal dress, so that the +whole landscape is red, russet, orange, and yellow, blending in the +distance into a rich tint of brown-orange, or nearly that,--except the +green expanse so definitely hemmed in by the higher ground. + +I took a long walk this morning, going first nearly to Newton, thence +nearly to Brighton, thence to Jamaica Plain, and thence home. It was a +fine morning, with a northwest-wind; cool when facing the wind, but warm +and most genially pleasant in sheltered spots; and warm enough everywhere +while I was in motion. I traversed most of the by-ways which offered +themselves to me; and, passing through one in which there was a double +line of grass between the wheel-tracks and that of the horses' feet, I +came to where had once stood a farm-house, which appeared to have been +recently torn down. Most of the old timber and boards had been carted +away; a pile of it, however, remained. The cellar of the house was +uncovered, and beside it stood the base and middle height of the chimney. +The oven, in which household bread had been baked for daily food, and +puddings and cake and jolly pumpkin-pies for festivals, opened its month, +being deprived of its iron door. The fireplace was close at hand. All +round the site of the house was a pleasant, sunny, green space, with old +fruit-trees in pretty fair condition, though aged. There was a barn, +also aged, but in decent repair; and a ruinous shed, on the corner of +which was nailed a boy's windmill, where it had probably been turning and +clattering for years together, till now it was black with time and +weather-stain. It was broken, but still it went round whenever the wind +stirred. The spot was entirely secluded, there being no other house +within a mile or two. + +No language can give an idea of the beauty and glory of the trees, just +at this moment. It would be easy, by a process of word-daubing, to set +down a confused group of gorgeous colors, like a bunch of tangled skeins +of bright silk; but there is nothing of the reality in the glare which +would thus be produced. And yet the splendor both of individual clusters +and of whole scenes is unsurpassable. The oaks are now far advanced in +their change of hue; and, in certain positions relatively to the sun, +they light up and gleam with a most magnificent deep gold, varying +according as portions of the foliage are in shadow or sunlight. On the +sides which receive the direct rays, the effect is altogether rich; and +in other points of view it is equally beautiful, if less brilliant. This +color of the oak is more superb than the lighter yellow of the maples and +walnuts. The whole landscape is now covered with this indescribable +pomp; it is discerned on the uplands afar off; and Blue Hill in Milton, +at the distance of several miles, actually glistens with rich, dark +light,--no, not glistens, nor gleams,--but perhaps to say glows subduedly +will be a truer expression for it. + +Met few people this morning; a grown girl, in company with a little boy, +gathering barberries in a secluded lane; a portly, autumnal gentleman, +wrapped in a greatcoat, who asked the way to Mr. Joseph Goddard's; and a +fish-cart from the city, the driver of which sounded his horn along the +lonesome way. + + +Monday, October 18th.--There has been a succession of days which were +cold and bright in the forenoon, and gray, sullen, and chill towards +night. The woods have now taken a soberer tint than they wore at my last +date. Many of the shrubs which looked brightest a little while ago are +now wholly bare of leaves. The oaks have generally a russet-brown shade, +although some of them are still green, as are likewise other scattered +trees in the forests. The bright yellow and the rich scarlet are no more +to be seen. Scarcely any of them will now bear a close examination; for +this shows them to be rugged, wilted, and of faded, frost-bitten hue; but +at a distance, and in the mass, and enlivened by the sun, they have still +somewhat of the varied splendor which distinguished them a week ago. It +is wonderful what a difference the sunshine makes; it is like varnish, +bringing out the hidden veins in a piece of rich wood. In the cold, gray +atmosphere, such as that of most of our afternoons now, the landscape +lies dark,--brown, and in a much deeper shadow than if it were clothed in +green. But, perchance, a gleam of sun falls on a certain spot of distant +shrubbery or woodland, and we see it brighten with many lines, standing +forth prominently from the dimness around it. The sunlight gradually +spreads, and the whole sombre scene is changed to a motley picture,--the +sun bringing out many shades of color, and converting its gloom to an +almost laughing cheerfulness. At such times I almost doubt whether the +foliage has lost any of its brilliancy. But the clouds intercept the sun +again, and lo! old Autumn appears, clad in his cloak of russet-brown. + +Beautiful now, while the general landscape lies in shadow, looks the +summit of a distant hill (say a mile off), with the sunshine brightening +the trees that cover it. It is noticeable that the outlines of hills, +and the whole bulk of them at the distance of several miles, become +stronger, denser, and more substantial in this autumn atmosphere and in +these autumnal tints than in summer. Then they looked blue, misty, and +dim. Now they show their great humpbacks more plainly, as if they had +drawn nearer to us. + +A waste of shrubbery and small trees, such as overruns the borders of the +meadows for miles together, looks much more rugged, wild, and savage in +its present brown color than when clad in green. + +I passed through a very pleasant wood-path yesterday, quite shut in and +sheltered by trees that had not thrown off their yellow robes. The sun +shone strongly in among them, and quite kindled them; so that the path +was brighter for their shade than if it had been quite exposed to the +sun. + +In the village graveyard, which lies contiguous to the street, I saw a +man digging a grave, and one inhabitant after another turned aside from +his way to look into the grave and talk with the digger. I heard him +laugh, with the traditionary mirthfulness of men of that occupation. + +In the hollow of the woods, yesterday afternoon, I lay a long while +watching a squirrel, who was capering about among the trees over my head +(oaks and white-pines, so close together that their branches +intermingled). The squirrel seemed not to approve of my presence, +for he frequently uttered a sharp, quick, angry noise, like that of a +scissors-grinder's wheel. Sometimes I could see him sitting on an +impending bough, with his tail over his hack, looking down pryingly upon +me. It seems to be a natural posture with him, to sit on his hind legs, +holding up his fore paws. Anon, with a peculiarly quick start, he would +scramble along the branch, and be lost to sight in another part of the +tree, whence his shrill chatter would again be heard. Then I would see +him rapidly descending the trunk, and running along the ground; and a +moment afterwards, casting my eye upward, I beheld him flitting like a +bird among the high limbs at the summit, directly above me. Afterwards, +he apparently became accustomed to my society, and set about some +business of his own. He came down to the ground, took up a piece of a +decayed bough (a heavy burden for such a small personage), and, with this +in his mouth, again climbed up and passed from the branches of one tree +to those of another, and thus onward and onward till he went out of +sight. Shortly afterwards he returned for another burden, and this he +repeated several times. I suppose he was building a nest,--at least, I +know not what else could have been his object. Never was there such an +active, cheerful, choleric, continually-in-motion fellow as this little +red squirrel, talking to himself, chattering at me, and as sociable in +his own person as if he had half a dozen companions, instead of being +alone in the lonesome wood. Indeed, he flitted about so quickly, and +showed himself in different places so suddenly, that I was in some doubt +whether there were not two or three of them. + +I must mention again the very beautiful effect produced by the masses of +berry-bushes, lying like scarlet islands in the midst of withered +pasture-ground, or crowning the tops of barren hills. Their hue, at a +distance, is lustrous scarlet, although it does not look nearly as bright +and gorgeous when examined close at hand. But at a proper distance it is +a beautiful fringe on Autumn's petticoat. + + +Friday, October 22d.--A continued succession of unpleasant, Novembery +days, and autumn has made rapid progress in the work of decay. It is now +somewhat of a rare good fortune to find a verdant, grassy spot, on some +slope, or in a dell; and even such seldom-seen oases are bestrewn with +dried brown leaves,--which, however, methinks, make the short, fresh +grass look greener around them. Dry leaves are now plentiful everywhere, +save where there are none but pine-trees. They rustle beneath the tread, +and there is nothing more autumnal than that sound. Nevertheless, in a +walk this afternoon, I have seen two oaks which retained almost the +greenness of summer. They grew close to the huge Pulpit Rock, so that +portions of their trunks appeared to grasp the rough surface; and they +were rooted beneath it, and, ascending high into the air, overshadowed +the gray crag with verdure. Other oaks, here and there, have a few green +leaves or boughs among their rustling and rugged shade. + +Yet, dreary as the woods are in a bleak, sullen day, there is a very +peculiar sense of warmth and a sort of richness of effect in the slope of +a bank and in sheltered spots, where bright sunshine falls, and the brown +oaken foliage is gladdened by it. There is then a feeling of comfort, +and consequently of heart-warmth, which cannot be experienced in summer. + +I walked this afternoon along a pleasant wood-path, gently winding, so +that but little of it could be seen at a time, and going up and down +small mounds, now plunging into a denser shadow and now emerging +from it. Part of the way it was strewn with the dusky, yellow leaves of +white-pines,--the cast-off garments of last year; part of the way with +green grass, close-cropped, and very fresh for the season. Sometimes the +trees met across it; sometimes it was bordered on one side by an old +rail-fence of moss-grown cedar, with bushes sprouting beneath it, and +thrusting their branches through it; sometimes by a stone-wall of unknown +antiquity, older than the wood it closed in. A stone-wall, when +shrubbery has grown around it, and thrust its roots beneath it, becomes a +very pleasant and meditative object. It does not belong too evidently to +man, having been built so long ago. It seems a part of nature. + +Yesterday I found two mushrooms in the woods, probably of the preceding +night's growth. Also I saw a mosquito, frost-pinched, and so wretched +that I felt avenged for all the injuries which his tribe inflicted upon +me last summer, and so did not molest this lone survivor. + +Walnuts in their green rinds are falling from the trees, and so are +chestnut-burrs. + +I found a maple-leaf to-day, yellow all over, except its extremest point, +which was bright scarlet. It looked as if a drop of blood were hanging +from it. The first change of the maple-leaf is to scarlet; the next, to +yellow. Then it withers, wilts, and drops off, as most of them have +already done. + + +October 27th.--Fringed gentians,--I found the last, probably, that will +be seen this year, growing on the margin of the brook. + + +1842.--Some man of powerful character to command a person, morally +subjected to him, to perform some act. The commanding person suddenly to +die; and, for all the rest of his life, the subjected one continues to +perform that act. + +"Solomon dies during the building of the temple, but his body remains +leaning on a staff, and overlooking the workmen, as if it were alive." + +A tri-weekly paper, to be called the Tertian Ague. + +Subject for a picture,--Satan's reappearance in Pandemonium, shining out +from a mist, with "shape star-bright." + +Five points of Theology,--Five Points at New York. + +It seems a greater pity that an accomplished worker with the hand should +perish prematurely, than a person of great intellect; because +intellectual arts may be cultivated in the next world, but not physical +ones. + +To trace out the influence of a frightful and disgraceful crime in +debasing and destroying a character naturally high and noble, the guilty +person being alone conscious of the crime. + +A man, virtuous in his general conduct, but committing habitually some +monstrous crime,--as murder,--and doing this without the sense of guilt, +but with a peaceful conscience,--habit, probably, reconciling him to it; +but something (for instance, discovery) occurs to make him sensible of +his enormity. His horror then. + +The strangeness, if they could be foreseen and forethought, of events +which do not seem so strange after they have happened. As, for instance, +to muse over a child's cradle, and foresee all the persons in different +parts of the world with whom he would have relations. + +A man to swallow a small snake,--and it to be a symbol of a cherished +sin. + +Questions as to unsettled points of history, and mysteries of nature, to +be asked of a mesmerized person. + +Gordier, a young man of the Island of Jersey, was paying his addresses to +a young lady of Guernsey. He visited the latter island, intending to be +married. He disappeared on his way from the beach to his mistress's +residence, and was afterwards found dead in a cavity of the rocks. After +a time, Galliard, a merchant of Guernsey, paid his addresses to the young +lady; but she always felt a strong, unaccountable antipathy to him. He +presented her with a beautiful trinket. The mother of Gordier, chancing +to see this trinket, recognized it as having been bought by her dead son +as a present for his mistress. She expired on learning this; and +Galliard, being suspected of the murder, committed suicide. + +The cure of Montreux in Switzerland, ninety-six years old, still vigorous +in mind and body, and able to preach. He had a twin-brother, also a +preacher, and the exact likeness of himself. Sometimes strangers have +beheld a white-haired, venerable, clerical personage, nearly a century +old; and, upon riding a few miles farther, have been astonished to meet +again this white-haired, venerable, century-old personage. + +When the body of Lord Mohun (killed in a duel) was carried home, +bleeding, to his house, Lady Mohun was very angry because it was "flung +upon the best bed." + +A prophecy, somewhat in the style of Swift's about Partridge, but +embracing various events and personages. + +An incident that befell Dr. Harris, while a Junior at college. Being in +great want of money to buy shirts or other necessaries, and not knowing +how to obtain it, he set out on a walk from Cambridge to Boston. On the +way, he cut a stick, and, after walking a short distance, perceived that +something had become attached to the end of it. It proved to be a gold +ring, with the motto, "God speed thee, friend." + +Brobdingnag lay on the northwest coast of the American continent. + +People with false hair and other artifices may be supposed to deceive +Death himself; so that he does not know when their hour is come. + +Bees are sometimes drowned (or suffocated) in the honey which they +collect. So some writers are lost in their collected learning. + +Advice of Lady Pepperell's father on her marriage,--never to work one +moment after Saturday sunset,--never to lay down her knitting except in +the middle of the needle,--always to rise with the sun,--to pass an hour +daily with the housekeeper,--to visit every room daily from garret to +cellar,--to attend herself to the brewing of beer and the baking of +bread,--and to instruct every member of the family in their religious +duties. + +Service of plate, presented by the city of London to Sir William +Pepperell, together with a table of solid silver. The table very narrow, +but long; the articles of plate numerous, but of small dimensions,--the +tureen not holding more than three pints. At the close of the +Revolution, when the Pepperell and Sparhawk property was confiscated, +this plate was sent to the grandson of Sir William, in London. It was so +valuable, that Sheriff Moulton of old York, with six well-armed men, +accompanied it to Boston. Pepperell's only daughter married Colonel +Sparhawk, a fine gentleman of the day. Andrew Pepperell, the son, was +rejected by a young lady (afterwards the mother of Mrs. General Knox), to +whom he was on the point of marriage, as being addicted to low company +and low pleasures. The lover, two days afterwards, in the streets of +Portsmouth, was sun-struck, and fell down dead. Sir William had built an +elegant house for his son and his intended wife; but after the death of +the former he never entered it. He lost his cheerfulness and social +qualities, and gave up intercourse with people, except on business. Very +anxious to secure his property to his descendants by the provisions of +his will, which was drawn up by Judge Sewall, then a young lawyer. Yet +the Judge lived to see two of Sir William's grandchildren so reduced that +they were to have been numbered among the town's poor, and were only +rescued from this fate by private charity. + +The arms and crest of the Pepperell family were displayed over the door +of every room in Sir William's house. In Colonel Sparhawk's house there +were forty portraits, most of them in full length. The house built for +Sir William's son was occupied as barracks during the Revolution, and +much injured. A few years after the peace, it was blown down by a +violent tempest, and finally no vestige of it was left, but there +remained only a summer-house and the family tomb. + +At Sir William's death, his mansion was hung with black, while the body +lay in state for a week. All the Sparhawk portraits were covered with +black crape, and the family pew was draped with black. Two oxen were +roasted, and liquid hospitality dispensed in proportion. + +Old lady's dress seventy or eighty years ago. Brown brocade gown, with a +nice lawn handkerchief and apron,--short sleeves, with a little ruffle, +just below the elbow,--black mittens,--a lawn cap, with rich lace +border,--a black velvet hood on the back of the head, tied with black +ribbon under the chin. She sat in an old-fashioned easy-chair, in a +small, low parlor,--the wainscot painted entirely black, and the walls +hung with a dark velvet paper. + +A table, stationary ever since the house was built, extending the whole +length of a room. One end was raised two steps higher than the rest. +The Lady Ursula, an early Colonial heroine, was wont to dine at the upper +end, while her servants sat below. This was in the kitchen. An old +garden and summer-house, and roses, currant-bushes, and tulips, which +Lady Ursula had brought from Grondale Abbey in Old England. Although a +hundred and fifty years before, and though their roots were propagated +all over the country, they were still flourishing in the original garden. +This Lady Ursula was the daughter of Lord Thomas Cutts of Grondale Abbey +in England. She had been in love with an officer named Fowler, who was +supposed to have been slain in battle. After the death of her father and +mother, Lady Ursula came to Kittery, bringing twenty men-servants and +several women. After a time, a letter arrived from her lover, who was +not killed, but merely a prisoner to the French. He announced his +purpose to come to America, where he would arrive in October. A few days +after the letter came, she went out in a low carriage to visit her +work-people, and was blessing the food for their luncheon, when she fell +dead, struck by an Indian tomahawk, as did all the rest save one. They +were buried where the massacre took place, and a stone was erected, which +(possibly) still remains. The lady's family had a grant from Sir +Ferdinando Gorges of the territory thereabout, and her brother had +likewise come over and settled in the vicinity. I believe very little of +this story. Long afterwards, at about the commencement of the +Revolution, a descendant of Fowler came from England, and applied to the +Judge of Probate to search the records for a will, supposed to have been +made by Lady Ursula in favor of her lover as soon as she heard of his +existence. In the mean time the estate had been sold to Colonel Whipple. +No will could be found. (Lady Ursula was old Mrs. Cutts, widow of +President Cutts.) + +The mode of living of Lady Ursula's brother in Kittery. A drawbridge to +the house, which was raised every evening, and lowered in the morning, +for the laborers and the family to pass out. They kept thirty cows, a +hundred sheep, and several horses. The house spacious,--one room large +enough to contain forty or fifty guests. Two silver branches for +candles,--the walls ornamented with paintings and needlework. The floors +were daily rubbed with wax, and shone like a mahogany table. A domestic +chaplain, who said prayers every morning and evening in a small apartment +called the chapel. Also a steward and butler. The family attended the +Episcopal Church at Christmas, Easter, and Good Friday, and gave a grand +entertainment once a year. + +Madam Cutts, at the last of these entertainments, wore a black damask +gown, and cuffs with double lace ruffles, velvet shoes, blue silk +stockings, white and silver stomacher. The daughter and granddaughters +in rich brocades and yellow satin. Old Major Cutts in brown velvet, +laced with gold, and a large wig. The parson in his silk cassock, and +his helpmate in brown damask. Old General Atkinson in scarlet velvet, +and his wife and daughters in white damask. The Governor in black +velvet, and his lady in crimson tabby trimmed with silver. The ladies +wore bell-hoops, high-heeled shoes, paste buckles, silk stockings, and +enormously high head-dresses, with lappets of Brussels lace hanging +thence to the waist. + +Among the eatables, a silver tub of the capacity of four gallons, holding +a pyramid of pancakes powdered with white sugar. + +The date assigned to all this about 1690. + +What is the price of a day's labor in Lapland, where the sun never sets +for six months? + +Miss Asphyxia Davis! + +A life, generally of a grave hue, may be said to be embroidered with +occasional sports and fantasies. + +A father confessor,--his reflections on character, and the contrast of +the inward man with the outward, as he looks around on his congregation, +all whose secret sins are known to him. + +A person with an ice-cold hand,--his right hand, which people ever +afterwards remember when once they have grasped it. + +A stove possessed by a Devil. + + +June 1st, 1842.--One of my chief amusements is to see the boys sail their +miniature vessels on the Frog Pond. There is a great variety of shipping +owned among the young people, and they appear to have a considerable +knowledge of the art of managing vessels. There is a full-rigged +man-of-war, with, I believe, every spar, rope, and sail, that sometimes +makes its appearance; and, when on a voyage across the pond, it so +identically resembles a great ship, except in size, that it has the +effect of a picture. All its motions,--its tossing up and down on the +small waves, and its sinking and rising in a calm swell, its heeling to +the breeze,--the whole effect, in short, is that of a real ship at sea; +while, moreover, there is something that kindles the imagination more +than the reality would do. If we see a real, great ship, the mind grasps +and possesses, within its real clutch, all that there is of it; while +here the mimic ship is the representation of an ideal one, and so gives +us a more imaginative pleasure. There are many schooners that ply to and +fro on the pond, and pilot-boats, all perfectly rigged. I saw a race, +the other day, between the ship above mentioned and a pilot-boat, in +which the latter came off conqueror. The boys appear to be well +acquainted with all the ropes and sails, and can call them by their +nautical names. One of the owners of the vessels remains on one side of +the pond, and the other on the opposite side, and so they send the little +bark to and fro, like merchants of different countries, consigning their +vessels to one another. + +Generally, when any vessel is on the pond, there are full-grown +spectators, who look on with as much interest as the boys themselves. +Towards sunset, this is especially the case: for then are seen young +girls and their lovers; mothers, with their little boys in hand; +schoolgirls, beating hoops round about, and occasionally running to the +side of the pond; rough tars, or perhaps masters or young mates of +vessels, who make remarks about the miniature shipping, and occasionally +give professional advice to the navigators; visitors from the country; +gloved and caned young gentlemen;--in short, everybody stops to take a +look. In the mean time; dogs are continually plunging into the pond, and +swimming about, with noses pointed upward, and snatching at floating +chips; then, emerging, they shake themselves, scattering a horizontal +shower on the clean gowns of ladies and trousers of gentlemen; then +scamper to and fro on the grass, with joyous barks. + +Some boys cast off lines of twine with pin-hooks, and perhaps pull out a +horned-pout,--that being, I think, the only kind of fish that inhabits +the Frog Pond. + +The ship-of-war above mentioned is about three feet from stem to stern, +or possibly a few inches more. This, if I mistake not, was the size of a +ship-of-the-line in the navy of Liliput. + +Fancy pictures of familiar places which one has never been in, as the +green-room of a theatre, etc. + +The famous characters of history,--to imagine their spirits now extant on +earth, in the guise of various public or private personages. + +The case quoted in Combe's Physiology of a young man of great talents and +profound knowledge of chemistry, who had in view some new discovery of +importance. In order to put his mind into the highest possible activity, +he shut himself up for several successive days, and used various methods +of excitement. He had a singing-girl, he drank spirits, smelled, +penetrating odors, sprinkled Cologne-water round the room, etc., etc. +Eight days thus passed, when he was seized with a fit of frenzy which +terminated in mania. + +Flesh and Blood,--a firm of butchers. + +Miss Polly Syllable, a schoolmistress. + +Mankind are earthen jugs with spirits in them. + +A spendthrift,--in one sense he has his money's worth by the purchase of +large lots of repentance and other dolorous commodities. + +To symbolize moral or spiritual disease by disease of the body; as thus, +--when a person committed any sin, it might appear in some form on the +body,--this to be wrought out. + +"Shrieking fish," a strange idea of Leigh Hunt. + +In my museum, all the ducal rings that have been thrown into the +Adriatic. + +An association of literary men in the other world,--or dialogues of the +dead, or something of that kind. + +Imaginary diseases to be cured by impossible remedies,--as a dose of the +Grand Elixir, in the yolk of a Phoenix's egg. The disease may be either +moral or physical. + +A physician for the cure of moral diseases. + +To point out the moral slavery of one who deems himself a free man. + +A stray leaf from the book of fate, picked up in the street. + + +Concord, August 5th.--A rainy day,--a rainy day. I am commanded to take +pen in hand, and I am therefore banished to the little ten-foot-square +apartment misnamed my study; but perhaps the dismalness of the day and +the dulness of my solitude will be the prominent characteristics of what +I write. And what is there to write about? Happiness has no succession +of events, because it is a part of eternity; and we have been living in +eternity ever since we came to this old manse. Like Enoch, we seem to +have been translated to the other state of being, without having passed +through death. Our spirits must have flitted away unconsciously, and we +can only perceive that we have cast off our mortal part by the more real +and earnest life of our souls. Externally, our Paradise has very much +the aspect of a pleasant old domicile on earth. This antique house--for +it looks antique, though it was created by Providence expressly for our +use, and at the precise time when we wanted it--stands behind a noble +avenue of balm-of-Gilead trees; and when we chance to observe a passing +traveller through the sunshine and the shadow of this long avenue, his +figure appears too dim and remote to disturb the sense of blissful +seclusion. Few, indeed, are the mortals who venture within our sacred +precincts. George Prescott, who has not yet grown earthly enough, I +suppose, to be debarred from occasional visits to Paradise, comes daily +to bring three pints of milk from some ambrosial cow; occasionally, also, +he makes an offering of mortal flowers. Mr. Emerson comes sometimes, and +has been feasted on our nectar and ambrosia. Mr. Thoreau has twice +listened to the music of the spheres, which, for our private convenience, +we have packed into a musical-box. E. H------, who is much more at home +among spirits than among fleshly bodies, came hither a few times merely +to welcome us to the ethereal world; but latterly she has vanished into +some other region of infinite space. One rash mortal, on the second +Sunday after our arrival, obtruded himself upon us in a gig. There have +since been three or four callers, who preposterously think that the +courtesies of the lower world are to be responded to by people whose home +is in Paradise. I must not forget to mention that the butcher comes +twice or thrice a week; and we have so far improved upon the custom of +Adam and Eve, that we generally furnish forth our feasts with portions of +some delicate calf or lamb, whose unspotted innocence entitles them to +the happiness of becoming our sustenance. Would that I were permitted to +record the celestial dainties that kind Heaven provided for us on the +first day of our arrival! Never, surely, was such food heard of on +earth,--at least, not by me. Well, the above-mentioned persons are +nearly all that have entered into the hallowed shade of our avenue; +except, indeed, a certain sinner who came to bargain for the grass in our +orchard, and another who came with a new cistern. For it is one of the +drawbacks upon our Eden that it contains no water fit either to drink or +to bathe in; so that the showers have become, in good truth, a godsend. +I wonder why Providence does not cause a clear, cold fountain to bubble +up at our doorstep; methinks it would not be unreasonable to pray for +such a favor. At present we are under the ridiculous necessity of +sending to the outer world for water. Only imagine Adam trudging out of +Paradise with a bucket in each hand, to get water to drink, or for Eve to +bathe in! Intolerable! (though our stout handmaiden really fetches our +water.) In other respects Providence has treated us pretty tolerably +well; but here I shall expect something further to be done. Also, in the +way of future favors, a kitten would be very acceptable. Animals +(except, perhaps, a pig) seem never out of place, even in the most +paradisiacal spheres. And, by the way, a young colt comes up our avenue, +now and then, to crop the seldom-trodden herbage; and so does a company +of cows, whose sweet breath well repays us for the food which they +obtain. There are likewise a few hens, whose quiet cluck is heard +pleasantly about the house. A black dog sometimes stands at the farther +extremity of the avenue, and looks wistfully hitherward; but when I +whistle to him, he puts his tail between his legs, and trots away. +Foolish dog! if he had more faith, he should have bones enough. + + +Saturday, August 6th.--Still a dull day, threatening rain, yet without +energy of character enough to rain outright. However, yesterday there +were showers enough to supply us well with their beneficent outpouring. +As to the new cistern, it seems to be bewitched; for, while the spout +pours into it like a cataract, it still remains almost empty. I wonder +where Mr. Hosmer got it; perhaps from Tantalus, under the eaves of whose +palace it must formerly have stood; for, like his drinking-cup in Hades, +it has the property of filling itself forever, and never being full. + +After breakfast I took my fishing-rod, and went down through our orchard +to the river-side; but as three or four boys were already in possession +of the best spots along the shore, I did not fish. This river of ours is +the most sluggish stream that I ever was acquainted with. I had spent +three weeks by its side, and swam across it every day, before I could +determine which way its current ran; and then I was compelled to decide +the question by the testimony of others, and not by my own observation. +Owing to this torpor of the stream, it has nowhere a bright, pebbly +shore, nor is there so much as a narrow strip of glistening sand in any +part of its course; but it slumbers along between broad meadows, or +kisses the tangled grass of mowing-fields and pastures, or bathes the +overhanging boughs of elder-bushes and other waterloving plants. Flags +and rushes grow along its shallow margin. The yellow water-lily spreads +its broad flat leaves upon its surface; and the fragrant white pond-lily +occurs in many favored spots,--generally selecting a situation just so +far from the river's brink that it cannot be grasped except at the hazard +of plunging in. But thanks be to the beautiful flower for growing at any +rate. It is a marvel whence it derives its loveliness and perfume, +sprouting as it does from the black mud over which the river sleeps, and +from which the yellow lily likewise draws its unclean life and noisome +odor. So it is with many people in this world; the same soil and +circumstances may produce the good and beautiful, and the wicked and +ugly. Some have the faculty of assimilating to themselves only what is +evil, and so they become as noisome as the yellow water-lily. Some +assimilate none but good influences, and their emblem is the fragrant and +spotless pond-lily, whose very breath is a blessing to all the region +round about. . . . Among the productions of the river's margin, I must +not forget the pickerel-weed, which grows just on the edge of the water, +and shoots up a long stalk crowned with a blue spire, from among large +green leaves. Both the flower and the leaves look well in a vase with +pond-lilies, and relieve the unvaried whiteness of the latter; and, being +all alike children of the waters, they are perfectly in keeping with one +another. . . . + +I bathe once, and often twice, a day in our river; but one dip into the +salt sea would be worth more than a whole week's soaking in such a +lifeless tide. I have read of a river somewhere (whether it be in +classic regions or among our Western Indians I know not) which seemed to +dissolve and steal away the vigor of those who bathed in it. Perhaps our +stream will be found to have this property. Its water, however, is +pleasant in its immediate effect, being as soft as milk, and always +warmer than the air. Its hue has a slight tinge of gold, and my limbs, +when I behold them through its medium, look tawny. I am not aware that +the inhabitants of Concord resemble their native river in any of their +moral characteristics. Their forefathers, certainly, seem to have had +the energy and impetus of a mountain torrent, rather than the torpor of +this listless stream,--as it was proved by the blood with which they +stained their river of Peace. It is said there are plenty of fish in it; +but my most important captures hitherto have been a mud-turtle and an +enormous eel. The former made his escape to his native element,--the +latter we ate; and truly he had the taste of the whole river in his +flesh, with a very prominent flavor of mud. On the whole, Concord River +is no great favorite of mine; but I am glad to have any river at all so +near at hand, it being just at the bottom of our orchard. Neither is it +without a degree and kind of picturesqueness, both in its nearness and in +the distance, when a blue gleam from its surface, among the green meadows +and woods, seems like an open eye in Earth's countenance. Pleasant it +is, too, to behold a little flat-bottomed skiff gliding over its bosom, +which yields lazily to the stroke of the paddle, and allows the boat to +go against its current almost as freely as with it. Pleasant, too, to +watch an angler, as he strays along the brink, sometimes sheltering +himself behind a tuft of bushes, and trailing his line along the water, +in hopes to catch a pickerel. But, taking the river for all in all, I +can find nothing more fit to compare it with than one of the half-torpid +earthworms which I dig up for bait. The worm is sluggish, and so is the +river,--the river is muddy, and so is the worm. You hardly know whether +either of them be alive or dead; but still, in the course of time, they +both manage to creep away. The best aspect of the Concord is when there +is a northwestern breeze curling its surface, in a bright, sunshiny day. +It then assumes a vivacity not its own. Moonlight, also, gives it +beauty, as it does to all scenery of earth or water. + + +Sunday, August 7th.--At sunset last evening I ascended the hill-top +opposite our house; and, looking downward at the long extent of the +river, it struck me that I had done it some injustice in my remarks. +Perhaps, like other gentle and quiet characters, it will be better +appreciated the longer I am acquainted with it. Certainly, as I beheld +it then, it was one of the loveliest features in a scene of great rural +beauty. It was visible through a course of two or three miles, sweeping +in a semicircle round the hill on which I stood, and being the central +line of a broad vale on either side. At a distance, it looked like a +strip of sky set into the earth, which it so etherealized and idealized +that it seemed akin to the upper regions. Nearer the base of the hill, I +could discern the shadows of every tree and rock, imaged with a +distinctness that made them even more charming than the reality; because, +knowing them to be unsubstantial, they assumed the ideality which the +soul always craves in the contemplation of earthly beauty. All the sky, +too, and the rich clouds of sunset, were reflected in the peaceful bosom +of the river; and surely, if its bosom can give back such an adequate +reflection of heaven, it cannot be so gross and impure as I described it +yesterday. Or, if so, it shall be a symbol to me that even a human +breast, which may appear least spiritual in some aspects, may still have +the capability of reflecting an infinite heaven in its depths, and +therefore of enjoying it. It is a comfortable thought, that the smallest +and most turbid mud-puddle can contain its own picture of heaven. Let us +remember this, when we feel inclined to deny all spiritual life to some +people, in whom, nevertheless, our Father may perhaps see the image of +His face. This dull river has a deep religion of its own: so, let us +trust, has the dullest human soul, though, perhaps, unconsciously. + +The scenery of Concord, as I beheld it from the summit of the hill, has +no very marked characteristics, but has a great deal of quiet beauty, in +keeping with the river. There are broad and peaceful meadows, which, I +think, are among the most satisfying objects in natural scenery. The +heart reposes on them with a feeling that few things else can give, +because almost all other objects are abrupt and clearly defined; but a +meadow stretches out like a small infinity, yet with a secure homeliness +which we do not find either in an expanse of water or of air. The hills +which border these meadows are wide swells of land, or long and gradual +ridges, some of them densely covered with wood. The white village, at a +distance on the left, appears to be embosomed among wooded hills. The +verdure of the country is much more perfect than is usual at this season +of the year, when the autumnal hue has generally made considerable +progress over trees and grass. Last evening, after the copious showers +of the preceding two days, it was worthy of early June, or, indeed, of a +world just created. Had I not then been alone, I should have had a far +deeper sense of beauty, for I should have looked through the medium of +another spirit. Along the horizon there were masses of those deep clouds +in which the fancy may see images of all things that ever existed or were +dreamed of. Over our old manse, of which I could catch but a glimpse +among its embowering trees, appeared the immensely gigantic figure of a +hound, crouching down with head erect, as if keeping watchful guard while +the master of the mansion was away. . . . How sweet it was to draw near +my own home, after having lived homeless in the world so long! . . . . +With thoughts like these, I descended the hill, and clambered over the +stone-wall, and crossed the road, and passed up our avenue, while the +quaint old house put on an aspect of welcome. + + +Monday, August 8th.--I wish I could give a description of our house, for +it really has a character of its own, which is more than can be said of +most edifices in these days. It is two stories high, with a third story +of attic chambers in the gable-roof. When I first visited it, early in +June, it looked pretty much as it did during the old clergyman's +lifetime, showing all the dust and disarray that might be supposed to +have gathered about him in the course of sixty years of occupancy. The +rooms seemed never to have been painted; at all events, the walls and +panels, as well as the huge cross-beams, had a venerable and most dismal +tinge of brown. The furniture consisted of high-backed, short-legged, +rheumatic chairs, small, old tables, bedsteads with lofty posts, stately +chests of drawers, looking-glasses in antique black frames, all of which +were probably fashionable in the days of Dr. Ripley's predecessor. It +required some energy of imagination to conceive the idea of transforming +this ancient edifice into a comfortable modern residence. However, it +has been successfully accomplished. The old Doctor's sleeping-apartment, +which was the front room on the ground-floor, we have converted into a +parlor; and by the aid of cheerful paint and paper, a gladsome carpet, +pictures and engravings, new furniture, bijouterie, and a daily supply of +flowers, it has become one of the prettiest and pleasantest rooms in the +whole world. The shade of our departed host will never haunt it; for its +aspect has been changed as completely as the scenery of a theatre. +Probably the ghost gave one peep into it, uttered a groan, and vanished +forever. The opposite room has been metamorphosed into a store-room. +Through the house, both in the first and second story, runs a spacious +hall or entry, occupying more space than is usually devoted to such a +purpose in modern times. This feature contributes to give the whole +house an airy, roomy, and convenient appearance; we can breathe the freer +by the aid of the broad passageway. The front door of the hall looks up +the stately avenue, which I have already mentioned; and the opposite door +opens into the orchard, through which a path descends to the river. In +the second story we have at present fitted up three rooms,--one being our +own chamber, and the opposite one a guest-chamber, which contains the +most presentable of the old Doctor's ante-Revolutionary furniture. After +all, the moderns have invented nothing better, as chamber furniture, than +these chests of drawers, which stand on four slender legs, and rear an +absolute tower of mahogany to the ceiling, the whole terminating in a +fantastically carved summit. Such a venerable structure adorns our +guest-chamber. In the rear of the house is the little room which I call +my study, and which, in its day, has witnessed the intellectual labors of +better students than myself. It contains, with some additions and +alterations, the furniture of my bachelor-room in Boston; but there is a +happier disposal of things now. There is a little vase of flowers on one +of the bookcases, and a larger bronze vase of graceful ferns that +surmounts the bureau. In size the room is just what it ought to be; for +I never could compress my thoughts sufficiently to write in a very +spacious room. It has three windows, two of which are shaded by a large +and beautiful willow-tree, which sweeps against the overhanging eaves. +On this side we have a view into the orchard, and, beyond, a glimpse of +the river. The other window is the one from which Mr. Emerson, the +predecessor of Dr. Ripley, beheld the first fight of the Revolution,-- +which he might well do, as the British troops were drawn up within a +hundred yards of the house; and on looking forth just now, I could still +perceive the western abutments of the old bridge, the passage of which +was contested. The new monument is visible from base to summit. + +Notwithstanding all we have done to modernize the old place, we seem +scarcely to have disturbed its air of antiquity. It is evident that +other wedded pairs have spent their honeymoons here, that children have +been born here, and people have grown old and died in these rooms, +although for our behoof the same apartments have consented to look +cheerful once again. Then there are dark closets, and strange nooks and +corners, where the ghosts of former occupants might hide themselves in +the daytime, and stalk forth when night conceals all our sacrilegious +improvements. We have seen no apparitions as yet; but we hear strange +noises, especially in the kitchen, and last night, while sitting in the +parlor, we heard a thumping and pounding as of somebody at work in my +study. Nay, if I mistake not (for I was half asleep), there was a sound +as of some person crumpling paper in his hand in our very bedchamber. +This must have been old Dr. Ripley with one of his sermons. There is a +whole chest of them in the garret; but he need have no apprehensions of +our disturbing them. I never saw the old patriarch myself, which I +regret, as I should have been glad to associate his venerable figure at +ninety years of age with the house in which he dwelt. + +Externally the house presents the same appearance as in the Doctor's day. +It had once a coat of white paint; but the storms and sunshine of many +years have almost obliterated it, and produced a sober, grayish hue, +which entirely suits the antique form of the structure. To repaint its +reverend face would be a real sacrilege. It would look like old Dr. +Ripley in a brown wig. I hardly know why it is that our cheerful and +lightsome repairs and improvements in the interior of the house seem to +be in perfectly good taste, though the heavy old beams and high +wainscoting of the walls speak of ages gone by. But so it is. The +cheerful paper-hangings have the air of belonging to the old walls; and +such modernisms as astral lamps, card-tables, gilded Cologne-bottles, +silver taper-stands, and bronze and alabaster flower-vases do not seem at +all impertinent. It is thus that an aged man may keep his heart warm for +new things and new friends, and often furnish himself anew with ideas; +though it would not be graceful for him to attempt to suit his exterior +to the passing fashions of the day. + + +August 9th.--Our orchard in its day has been a very productive and +profitable one; and we were told that in one year it returned Dr. Ripley +a hundred dollars, besides defraying the expense of repairing the house. +It is now long past its prime: many of the trees are moss-grown, and have +dead and rotten branches intermixed among the green and fruitful ones. +And it may well be so; for I suppose some of the trees may have been set +out by Mr. Emerson, who died in the first year of the Revolutionary War. +Neither will the fruit, probably, bear comparison with the delicate +productions of modern pomology. Most of the trees seem to have abundant +burdens upon them; but they are homely russet apples, fit only for baking +and cooking. (But we are yet to have practical experience of our fruit.) +Justice Shallow's orchard, with its choice pippins and leather-coats, was +doubtless much superior. Nevertheless, it pleases me to think of the +good minister, walking in the shadows of these old, fantastically shaped +apples-trees, here plucking some of the fruit to taste, there pruning +away a too luxuriant branch, and all the while computing how many barrels +may be filled, and how large a sum will be added to his stipend by their +sale. And the same trees offer their fruit to me as freely as they did +to him,--their old branches, like withered hands and arms, holding out +apples of the same flavor as they held out to Dr. Ripley in his lifetime. +Thus the trees, as living existences, form a peculiar link between the +dead and us. My fancy has always found something very interesting in an +orchard. Apple-trees, and all fruit-trees, have a domestic character +which brings them into relationship with man. They have lost, in a great +measure, the wild nature of the forest-tree, and have grown humanized by +receiving the care of man, and by contributing to his wants. They have +become a part of the family; and their individual characters are as well +understood and appreciated as those of the human members. One tree is +harsh and crabbed, another mild; one is churlish and illiberal, another +exhausts itself with its free-hearted bounties. Even the shapes of +apple-trees have great individuality, into such strange postures do they +put themselves, and thrust their contorted branches so grotesquely in all +directions. And when they have stood around a house for many years, and +held converse with successive dynasties of occupants, and gladdened their +hearts so often in the fruitful autumn, then it would seem almost +sacrilege to cut them down. + +Besides the apple-trees, there are various other kinds of fruit in close +vicinity to the house. When we first arrived, there were several trees +of ripe cherries, but so sour that we allowed them to wither upon the +branches. Two long rows of currant-bushes supplied us abundantly for +nearly four weeks. There are a good many peach-trees, but all of an old +date,--their branches rotten, gummy, and mossy,--and their fruit, I fear, +will be of very inferior quality. They produce most abundantly, +however,--the peaches being almost as numerous as the leaves; and even +the sprouts and suckers from the roots of the old trees have fruit upon +them. Then three are pear-trees of various kinds, and one or two +quince-trees. On the whole, these fruit-trees, and the other items and +adjuncts of the place, convey a very agreeable idea of the outward +comfort in which the good old Doctor must have spent his life. +Everything seems to have fallen to his lot that could possibly be +supposed to render the life of a country clergyman easy and prosperous. +There is a barn, which probably used to be filled annually with his hay +and other agricultural products. There are sheds, and a hen-house, and a +pigeon-house, and an old stone pigsty, the open portion of which is +overgrown with tall weeds, indicating that no grunter has recently +occupied it. . . . I have serious thoughts of inducting a new incumbent +in this part of the parsonage. It is our duty to support a pig, even if +we have no design of feasting upon him; and, for my own part, I have a +great sympathy and interest for the whole race of porkers, and should +have much amusement in studying the character of a pig. Perhaps I might +try to bring out his moral and intellectual nature, and cultivate his +affections. A cat, too, and perhaps a dog, would be desirable additions +to our household. + + +August 10th.--The natural taste of man for the original Adam's occupation +is fast developing itself in me. I find that I am a good deal interested +in our garden, although, as it was planted before we came here, I do not +feel the same affection for the plants that I should if the seed had been +sown by my own hands. It is something like nursing and educating another +person's children. Still, it was a very pleasant moment when I gathered +the first string-beans, which were the earliest esculent that the garden +contributed to our table. And I love to watch the successive development +of each new vegetable, and mark its daily growth, which always affects me +with surprise. It is as if something were being created under my own +inspection, and partly by my own aid. One day, perchance, I look at my +bean-vines, and see only the green leaves clambering up the poles; again, +to-morrow, I give a second glance, and there are the delicate blossoms; +and a third day, on a somewhat closer observation, I discover the tender +young beans, hiding among the foliage. Then, each morning, I watch the +swelling of the pods and calculate how soon they will be ready to yield +their treasures. All this gives a pleasure and an ideality, hitherto +unthought of, to the business of providing sustenance for my family. I +suppose Adam felt it in Paradise; and, of merely and exclusively earthly +enjoyments, there are few purer and more harmless to be experienced. +Speaking of beans, by the way, they are a classical food, and their +culture must have been the occupation of many ancient sages and heroes. +Summer-squashes are a very pleasant vegetable to be acquainted with. +They grow in the forms of urns and vases,--some shallow, others deeper, +and all with a beautifully scalloped edge. Almost any squash in our +garden might be copied by a sculptor, and would look lovely in marble, or +in china; and, if I could afford it, I would have exact imitations of the +real vegetable as portions of my dining-service. They would be very +appropriate dishes for holding garden-vegetables. Besides the +summer-squashes, we have the crook-necked winter-squash, which I always +delight to look at, when it turns up its big rotundity to ripen in the +autumn sun. Except a pumpkin, there is no vegetable production that +imparts such an idea of warmth and comfort to the beholder. Our own +crop, however, does not promise to be very abundant; for the leaves +formed such a superfluous shade over the young blossoms, that most of +them dropped off without producing the germ of fruit. Yesterday and +to-day I have cut off an immense number of leaves, and have thus given +the remaining blossoms a chance to profit by the air and sunshine; but +the season is too far advanced, I am afraid, for the squashes to attain +any great bulk, and grow yellow in the sun. We have muskmelons and +watermelons, which promise to supply us with as many as we can eat. +After all, the greatest interest of these vegetables does not seem to +consist in their being articles of food. It is rather that we love to +see something born into the world; and when a great squash or melon is +produced, it is a large and tangible existence, which the imagination can +seize hold of and rejoice in. I love, also, to see my own works +contributing to the life and well-being of animate nature. It is +pleasant to have the bees come and suck honey out of my squash-blossoms, +though, when they have laden themselves, they fly away to some unknown +hive, which will give me back nothing in return for what my garden has +given them. But there is much more honey in the world, and so I am +content. Indian corn, in the prime and glory of its verdure, is a very +beautiful vegetable, both considered in the separate plant, and in a mass +in a broad field, rustling and waving, and surging up and down in the +breeze and sunshine of a summer afternoon. We have as many as fifty +hills, I should think, which will give us an abundant supply. Pray +Heaven that we may be able to eat it all! for it is not pleasant to think +that anything which Nature has been at the pains to produce should be +thrown away. But the hens will be glad of our superfluity, and so will +the pigs, though we have neither hens nor pigs of our own. But hens we +must certainly keep. There is something very sociable and quiet, and +soothing, too, in their soliloquies and converse among themselves; and, +in an idle and half-meditative mood, it is very pleasant to watch a party +of hens picking up their daily subsistence, with a gallant chanticleer in +the midst of them. Milton had evidently contemplated such a picture with +delight. + +I find that I have not given a very complete idea of our garden, although +it certainly deserves an ample record in this chronicle, since my labors +in it are the only present labors of my life. Besides what I have +mentioned, we have cucumber-vines, which to-day yielded us the first +cucumber of the season, a bed of beets, and another of carrots, and +another of parsnips and turnips, none of which promise us a very abundant +harvest. In truth, the soil is worn out, and, moreover, received very +little manure this season. Also, we have cabbages in superfluous +abundance, inasmuch as we neither of us have the least affection for +them; and it would be unreasonable to expect Sarah, the cook, to eat +fifty head of cabbages. Tomatoes, too, we shall have by and by. At our +first arrival, we found green peas ready for gathering, and these, +instead of the string-beans, were the first offering of the garden to our +board. + + +Saturday, August 13th.--My life, at this time, is more like that of a +boy, externally, than it has been since I was really a boy. It is +usually supposed that the cares of life come with matrimony; but I seem +to have cast off all care, and live on with as much easy trust in +Providence as Adam could possibly have felt before he had learned that +there was a world beyond Paradise. My chief anxiety consists in watching +the prosperity of my vegetables, in observing how they are affected by +the rain or sunshine, in lamenting the blight of one squash and rejoicing +at the luxurious growth of another. It is as if the original relation +between man and Nature were restored in my case, and as if I were to look +exclusively to her for the support of my Eve and myself,--to trust to her +for food and clothing, and all things needful, with the full assurance +that she would not fail me. The fight with the world,--the struggle of a +man among men,--the agony of the universal effort to wrench the means of +living from a host of greedy competitors,--all this seems like a dream to +me. My business is merely to live and to enjoy; and whatever is +essential to life and enjoyment will come as naturally as the dew from +heaven. This is, practically at least, my faith. And so I awake in the +morning with a boyish thoughtlessness as to how the outgoings of the day +are to be provided for, and its incomings rendered certain. After +breakfast, I go forth into my garden, and gather whatever the bountiful +Mother has made fit for our present sustenance; and of late days she +generally gives me two squashes and a cucumber, and promises me green +corn and shell-beans very soon. Then I pass down through our orchard to +the river-side, and ramble along its margin in search of flowers. +Usually I discern a fragrant white lily, here and there along the shore, +growing, with sweet prudishness, beyond the grasp of mortal arm. But it +does not escape me so. I know what is its fitting destiny better than +the silly flower knows for itself; so I wade in, heedless of wet +trousers, and seize the shy lily by its slender stem. Thus I make prize +of five or six, which are as many as usually blossom within my reach in a +single morning;--some of them partially worm-eaten or blighted, like +virgins with an eating sorrow at the heart; others as fair and perfect as +Nature's own idea was, when she first imagined this lovely flower. A +perfect pond-lily is the most satisfactory of flowers. Besides these, I +gather whatever else of beautiful chances to be growing in the moist soil +by the river-side,--an amphibious tribe, yet with more richness and grace +than the wild-flowers of the deep and dry woodlands and hedge-rows,-- +sometimes the white arrow-head, always the blue spires and broad green +leaves of the pickerel-flower, which contrast and harmonize so well with +the white lilies. For the last two or three days, I have found scattered +stalks of the cardinal-flower, the gorgeous scarlet of which it is a joy +even to remember. The world is made brighter and sunnier by flowers of +such a hue. Even perfume, which otherwise is the soul and spirit of a +flower, may be spared when it arrays itself in this scarlet glory. It is +a flower of thought and feeling, too; it seems to have its roots deep +down in the hearts of those who gaze at it. Other bright flowers +sometimes impress me as wanting sentiment; but it is not so with this. + +Well, having made up my bunch of flowers, I return home with them. +. . . . Then I ascend to my study, and generally read, or perchance +scribble in this journal, and otherwise suffer Time to loiter onward at +his own pleasure, till the dinner-hour. In pleasant days, the chief +event of the afternoon, and the happiest one of the day, is our walk. +. . . . So comes the night; and I look back upon a day spent in what the +world would call idleness, and for which I myself can suggest no more +appropriate epithet, but which, nevertheless, I cannot feel to have been +spent amiss. True, it might be a sin and shame, in such a world as ours, +to spend a lifetime in this manner; but for a few summer weeks it is good +to live as if this world were heaven. And so it is, and so it shall be, +although, in a little while, a flitting shadow of earthly care and toil +will mingle itself with our realities. + + +Monday, August 15th.--George Hillard and his wife arrived from Boston in +the dusk of Saturday evening, to spend Sunday with us. It was a pleasant +sensation, when the coach rumbled up our avenue, and wheeled round at the +door; for I felt that I was regarded as a man with a household, a man +having a tangible existence and locality in the world,--when friends came +to avail themselves of our hospitality. It was a sort of acknowledgment +and reception of us into the corps of married people,--a sanction by no +means essential to our peace and well-being, but yet agreeable enough to +receive. So we welcomed them cordially at the door, and ushered them +into our parlor, and soon into the supper-room. . . . The night flitted +over us all, and passed away, and up rose a gray and sullen morning, +. . . . and we had a splendid breakfast of flapjacks, or slapjacks, and +whortleberries, which I gathered on a neighboring hill, and perch, bream, +and pout, which I hooked out of the river the evening before. About nine +o'clock, Hillard and I set out for a walk to Walden Pond, calling by the +way at Mr. Emerson's, to obtain his guidance or directions, and he +accompanied us in his own illustrious person. We turned aside a little +from our way, to visit Mr. ------, a yeoman, of whose homely and +self-acquired wisdom Mr. Emerson has a very high opinion. We found him +walking in his fields, a short and stalwart and sturdy personage of +middle age, with a face of shrewd and kind expression, and manners of +natural courtesy. He had a very free flow of talk; for, with a little +induction from Mr. Emerson, he began to discourse about the state of the +nation, agriculture, and business in general, uttering thoughts that had +come to him at the plough, and which had a sort of flavor of the fresh +earth about them. His views were sensible and characteristic, and had +grown in the soil where we found them; . . . . and he is certainly a man +of intellectual and moral substance, a sturdy fact, a reality, something +to be felt and touched, whose ideas seem to be dug out of his mind as he +digs potatoes, beets, carrots, and turnips out of the ground. + +After leaving Mr. ------, we proceeded through wood-paths to Walden Pond, +picking blackberries of enormous size along the way. The pond itself was +beautiful and refreshing to my soul, after such long and exclusive +familiarity with our tawny and sluggish river. It lies embosomed among +wooded hills, it is not very extensive, but large enough for waves to +dance upon its surface, and to look like a piece of blue firmament, +earthen-circled. The shore has a narrow, pebbly strand, which it was +worth a day's journey to look at, for the sake of the contrast between it +and the weedy, oozy margin of the river. Farther within its depths, you +perceive a bottom of pure white sand, sparkling through the transparent +water, which, methought, was the very purest liquid in the world. After +Mr. Emerson left us, Hillard and I bathed in the pond, and it does really +seem as if my spirit, as well as corporeal person, were refreshed by that +bath. A good deal of mud and river slime had accumulated on my soul; but +these bright waters washed them all away. + +We returned home in due season for dinner. . . . To my misfortune, +however, a box of Mediterranean wine proved to have undergone the acetous +fermentation; so that the splendor of the festival suffered some +diminution. Nevertheless, we ate our dinner with a good appetite, and +afterwards went universally to take our several siestas. Meantime there +came a shower, which so besprinkled the grass and shrubbery as to make it +rather wet for our after-tea ramble. The chief result of the walk was +the bringing home of an immense burden of the trailing clematis-vine, now +just in blossom, and with which all our flower-stands and vases are this +morning decorated. On our return we found Mr. and Mrs. S------, and E. +H------, who shortly took their leave, and we sat up late, telling +ghost-stories. This morning, at seven, our friends left us. We were +both pleased with the visit, and so, I think, were our guests. + + * * * * * * + +Monday, August 22d.--I took a walk through the woods yesterday afternoon, +to Mr. Emerson's, with a book which Margaret Fuller had left, after a +call on Saturday eve. I missed the nearest way, and wandered into a very +secluded portion of the forest; for forest it might justly be called, so +dense and sombre was the shade of oaks and pines. Once I wandered into a +tract so overgrown with bushes and underbrush that I could scarcely force +a passage through. Nothing is more annoying than a walk of this kind, +where one is tormented by an innumerable host of petty impediments. It +incenses and depresses me at the same time. Always when I flounder into +the midst of bushes, which cross and intertwine themselves about my legs, +and brush my face, and seize hold of my clothes, with their multitudinous +grip,--always, in such a difficulty, I feel as if it were almost as well +to lie down and die in rage and despair as to go one step farther. It is +laughable, after I have got out of the moil, to think how miserably it +affected me for the moment; but I had better learn patience betimes, for +there are many such bushy tracts in this vicinity, on the margins of +meadows, and my walks will often lead me into them. Escaping from the +bushes, I soon came to an open space among the woods,--a very lovely +spot, with the tall old trees standing around as quietly as if no one had +intruded there throughout the whole summer. A company of crows were +holding their Sabbath on their summits. Apparently they felt themselves +injured or insulted by my presence; for, with one consent, they began to +Caw! caw! caw! and, launching themselves sullenly on the air, took flight +to some securer solitude. Mine, probably, was the first human shape that +they had seen all day long,--at least, if they had been stationary in +that spot; but perhaps they had winged their way over miles and miles of +country, had breakfasted on the summit of Graylock, and dined at the base +of Wachusett, and were merely come to sup and sleep among the quiet woods +of Concord. But it was my impression at the time, that they had sat +still and silent on the tops of the trees all through the Sabbath day, +and I felt like one who should unawares disturb an assembly of +worshippers. A crow, however, has no real pretensions to religion, in +spite of his gravity of mien and black attire. Crows are certainly +thieves, and probably infidels. Nevertheless, their voices yesterday +were in admirable accordance with the influences of the quiet, sunny, +warm, yet autumnal afternoon. They were so far above my head that their +loud clamor added to the quiet of the scene, instead of disturbing it. +There was no other sound, except the song of the cricket, which is but an +audible stillness; for, though it be very loud and heard afar, yet the +mind does not take note of it as a sound, so entirely does it mingle and +lose its individuality among the other characteristics of coming autumn. +Alas for the summer! The grass is still verdant on the hills and in the +valleys; the foliage of the trees is as dense as ever, and as green; +the flowers are abundant along the margin of the river, and in the +hedge-rows, and deep among the woods; the days, too, are as fervid as +they were a month ago; and yet in every breath of wind and in every beam +of sunshine there is an autumnal influence. I know not how to describe +it. Methinks there is a sort of coolness amid all the heat, and a +mildness in the brightest of the sunshine. A breeze cannot stir without +thrilling me with the breath of autumn, and I behold its pensive glory in +the far, golden gleams among the long shadows of the trees. The flowers, +even the brightest of them,--the golden-rod and the gorgeous cardinals,-- +the most glorious flowers of the year,--have this gentle sadness amid +their pomp. Pensive autumn is expressed in the glow of every one of +them. I have felt this influence earlier in some years than in others. +Sometimes autumn may be perceived even in the early days of July. There +is no other feeling like that caused by this faint, doubtful, yet real +perception, or rather prophecy, of the year's decay, so deliciously sweet +and sad at the same time. + +After leaving the book at Mr. Emerson's I returned through the woods, +and, entering Sleepy Hollow, I perceived a lady reclining near the path +which bends along its verge. It was Margaret herself. She had been +there the whole afternoon, meditating or reading; for she had a book in +her hand, with some strange title, which I did not understand, and have +forgotten. She said that nobody had broken her solitude, and was just +giving utterance to a theory that no inhabitant of Concord ever visited +Sleepy Hollow, when we saw a group of people entering the sacred +precincts. Most of them followed a path which led them away from us; but +an old man passed near us, and smiled to see Margaret reclining on the +ground, and me sitting by her side. He made some remark about the beauty +of the afternoon, and withdrew himself into the shadow of the wood. Then +we talked about autumn, and about the pleasures of being lost in the +woods, and about the crows, whose voices Margaret had heard; and about +the experiences of early childhood, whose influence remains upon the +character after the recollection of them has passed away; and about the +sight of mountains from a distance, and the view from their summits; and +about other matters of high and low philosophy. In the midst of our +talk, we heard footsteps above us, on the high bank; and while the person +was still hidden among the trees, he called to Margaret, of whom he had +gotten a glimpse. Then he emerged from the green shade, and, behold! it +was Mr. Emerson. He appeared to have had a pleasant time; for he said +that there were Muses in the woods to-day, and whispers to be heard in +the breezes. It being now nearly six o'clock, we separated,--Margaret +and Mr. Emerson towards his home, and I towards mine. . . . + +Last evening there was the most beautiful moonlight that ever hallowed +this earthly world; and when I went to bathe in the river, which was as +calm as death, it seemed like plunging down into the sky. But I had +rather be on earth than even in the seventh heaven, just now. + + +Wednesday, August 24th.--I left home at five o'clock this morning to +catch some fish for breakfast. I shook our summer apple-tree, and ate +the golden apple which fell from it. Methinks these early apples, which +come as a golden promise before the treasures of autumnal fruit, are +almost more delicious than anything that comes afterwards. We have but +one such tree in our orchard; but it supplies us with a daily abundance, +and probably will do so for at least a week to come. Meantime other +trees begin to cast their ripening windfalls upon the grass; and when I +taste them, and perceive their mellowed flavor and blackening seeds, I +feel somewhat overwhelmed with the impending bounties of Providence. I +suppose Adam, in Paradise, did not like to see his fruits decaying on the +ground, after he had watched them through the sunny days of the world's +first summer. However, insects, at the worst, will hold a festival upon +them, so that they will not be thrown away, in the great scheme of +Nature. Moreover, I have one advantage over the primeval Adam, inasmuch +as there is a chance of disposing of my superfluous fruits among people +who inhabit no Paradise of their own. + +Passing a little way down along the river-side, I threw in my line, and +soon drew out one of the smallest possible of fishes. It seemed to be a +pretty good morning for the angler,--an autumnal coolness in the air, a +clear sky, but with a fog across the lowlands and on the surface of the +river, which a gentle breeze sometimes condensed into wreaths. At first +I could barely discern the opposite shore of the river; but, as the sun +arose, the vapors gradually dispersed, till only a warm, smoky tint was +left along the water's surface. The farm-houses across the river made +their appearance out of the dusky cloud; the voices of boys were heard, +shouting to the cattle as they drove them to the pastures; a man whetted +his scythe, and set to work in a neighboring meadow. Meantime, I +continued to stand on the oozy margin of the stream, beguiling the little +fish; and though the scaly inhabitants of our river partake somewhat of +the character of their native element, and are but sluggish biters, still +I contrived to pull out not far from two dozen. They were all bream, a +broad, flat, almost circular fish, shaped a good deal like a flounder, +but swimming on their edges, instead of on their sides. As far as mere +pleasure is concerned, it is hardly worth while to fish in our river, it +is so much like angling in a mud-puddle; and one does not attach the idea +of freshness and purity to the fishes, as we do to those which inhabit +swift, transparent streams, or haunt the shores of the great briny deep. +Standing on the weedy margin, and throwing the line over the elder-bushes +that dip into the water, it seems as if we could catch nothing but frogs +and mud-turtles, or reptiles akin to them. And even when a fish of +reputable aspect is drawn out, one feels a shyness about touching him. +As to our river, its character was admirably expressed last night by some +one who said "it was too lazy to keep itself clean." I might write pages +and pages, and only obscure the impression which this brief sentence +conveys. Nevertheless, we made bold to eat some of my fish for +breakfast, and found them very savory; and the rest shall meet with due +entertainment at dinner, together with some shell-beans, green corn, and +cucumbers from our garden; so this day's food comes directly and entirely +from beneficent Nature, without the intervention of any third person +between her and us. + + +Saturday, August 27th.--A peach-tree, which grows beside our house and +brushes against the window, is so burdened with fruit that I have had to +prop it up. I never saw more splendid peaches in appearance,--great, +round, crimson-cheeked beauties, clustering all over the tree. A +pear-tree, likewise, is maturing a generous burden of small, sweet fruit, +which will require to be eaten at about the same time as the peaches. +There is something pleasantly annoying in this superfluous abundance; it +is like standing under a tree of ripe apples, and giving it a shake, with +the intention of bringing down a single one, when, behold, a dozen come +thumping about our ears. But the idea of the infinite generosity and +exhaustless bounty of our Mother Nature is well worth attaining; and I +never had it so vividly as now, when I find myself, with the few mouths +which I am to feed, the sole inheritor of the old clergyman's wealth of +fruits. His children, his friends in the village, and the clerical +guests who came to preach in his pulpit, were all wont to eat and be +filled from these trees. Now, all these hearty old people have passed +away, and in their stead is a solitary pair, whose appetites are more +than satisfied with the windfalls which the trees throw down at their +feet. Howbeit, we shall have now and then a guest to keep our peaches +and pears from decaying. + +G. B------, my old fellow-laborer at the community at Brook Farm, called +on me last evening, and dined here to-day. He has been cultivating +vegetables at Plymouth this summer, and selling them in the market. What +a singular mode of life for a man of education and refinement,--to spend +his days in hard and earnest bodily toil, and then to convey the products +of his labor, in a wheelbarrow, to the public market, and there retail +them out,--a peck of peas or beans, a bunch of turnips, a squash, a dozen +ears of green corn! Few men, without some eccentricity of character, +would have the moral strength to do this; and it is very striking to find +such strength combined with the utmost gentleness, and an uncommon +regularity of nature. Occasionally he returns for a day or two to resume +his place among scholars and idle people, as, for instance, the present +week, when he has thrown aside his spade and hoe to attend the +Commencement at Cambridge. He is a rare man,--a perfect original, yet +without any one salient point; a character to be felt and understood, but +almost impossible to describe: for, should you seize upon any +characteristic, it would inevitably be altered and distorted in the +process of writing it down. + +Our few remaining days of summer have been latterly grievously darkened +with clouds. To-day there has been an hour or two of hot sunshine; but +the sun rose amid cloud and mist, and before he could dry up the moisture +of last night's shower upon the trees and grass, the clouds have gathered +between him and us again. This afternoon the thunder rumbles in the +distance, and I believe a few drops of rain have fallen; but the weight +of the shower has burst elsewhere, leaving us nothing but its sullen +gloom. There is a muggy warmth in the atmosphere, which takes all the +spring and vivacity out of the mind and body. + + +Sunday, August 28th.--Still another rainy day,--the heaviest rain, I +believe, that has fallen since we came to Concord (not two months ago). +There never was a more sombre aspect of all external nature. I gaze from +the open window of my study somewhat disconsolately, and observe the +great willow-tree which shades the house, and which has caught and +retained a whole cataract of rain among its leaves and boughs; and all +the fruit-trees, too, are dripping continually, even in the brief +intervals when the clouds give us a respite. If shaken to bring down the +fruit, they will discharge a shower upon the head of him who stands +beneath. The rain is warm, coming from some southern region; but the +willow attests that it is an autumnal spell of weather, by scattering +down no infrequent multitude of yellow leaves, which rest upon the +sloping roof of the house, and strew the gravel-path and the grass. The +other trees do not yet shed their leaves, though in some of them a +lighter tint of verdure, tending towards yellow, is perceptible. All day +long we hear the water drip, drip, dripping, splash, splash, splashing, +from the eaves, and babbling and foaming into the tubs which have been +set out to receive it. The old unpainted shingles and boards of the +mansion and out-houses are black with the moisture which they have +imbibed. Looking at the river, we perceive that its usually smooth and +mirrored surface is blurred by the infinity of rain-drops; the whole +landscape--grass, trees, and houses--has a completely water-soaked +aspect, as if the earth were wet through. The wooded hill, about a mile +distant, whither we went to gather whortleberries, has a mist upon its +summit, as if the demon of the rain were enthroned there; and if we look +to the sky, it seems as if all the water that had been poured down upon +us were as nothing to what is to come. Once in a while, indeed, there is +a gleam of sky along the horizon, or a half-cheerful, half-sullen +lighting up of the atmosphere; the rain-drops cease to patter down, +except when the trees shake off a gentle shower; but soon we hear the +broad, quiet, slow, and sure recommencement of the rain. The river, if I +mistake not, has risen considerably during the day, and its current will +acquire some degree of energy. + +In this sombre weather, when some mortals almost forget that there ever +was any golden sunshine, or ever will be any hereafter, others seem +absolutely to radiate it from their own hearts and minds. The gloom +cannot pervade them; they conquer it, and drive it quite out of their +sphere, and create a moral rainbow of hope upon the blackest cloud. As +for myself, I am little other than a cloud at such seasons, but such +persons contrive to make me a sunny one, shining all through me. And +thus, even without the support of a stated occupation, I survive these +sullen days and am happy. + +This morning we read the Sermon on the Mount. In the course of the +forenoon, the rain abated for a season, and I went out and gathered some +corn and summer-squashes, and picked up the windfalls of apples and pears +and peaches. Wet, wet, wet,--everything was wet; the blades of the +corn-stalks moistened me; the wet grass soaked my boots quite through; +the trees threw their reserved showers upon my head; and soon the +remorseless rain began anew, and drove me into the house. When shall we +be able to walk again to the far hills, and plunge into the deep woods, +and gather more cardinals along the river's margin? The track along +which we trod is probably under water now. How inhospitable Nature is +during a rain! In the fervid heat of sunny days, she still retains some +degree of mercy for us; she has shady spots, whither the sun cannot come; +but she provides no shelter against her storms. It makes one shiver to +think how dripping with wet are those deep, umbrageous nooks, those +overshadowed banks, where we find such enjoyment during sultry +afternoons. And what becomes of the birds in such a soaking rain as +this? Is hope and an instinctive faith so mixed up with their nature +that they can be cheered by the thought that the sunshine will return? +or do they think, as I almost do, that there is to be no sunshine any +more? Very disconsolate must they be among the dripping leaves; and when +a single summer makes so important a portion of their lives, it seems +hard that so much of it should be dissolved in rain. I, likewise, am +greedy of the summer days for my own sake; the life of man does not +contain so many of them that one can be spared without regret. + + +Tuesday, August 30th.--I was promised, in the midst of Sunday's rain, +that Monday should be fair, and, behold! the sun came back to us, and +brought one of the most perfect days ever made since Adam was driven out +of Paradise. By the by, was there ever any rain in Paradise? If so, how +comfortless must Eve's bower have been! and what a wretched and rheumatic +time must they have had on their bed of wet roses! It makes me shiver to +think of it. Well, it seemed as if the world was newly created yesterday +morning, and I beheld its birth; for I had risen before the sun was over +the hill, and had gone forth to fish. How instantaneously did all +dreariness and heaviness of the earth's spirit flit away before one smile +of the beneficent sun! This proves that all gloom is but a dream and a +shadow, and that cheerfulness is the real truth. It requires many +clouds, long brooding over us, to make us sad, but one gleam of sunshine +always suffices to cheer up the landscape. The banks of the river +actually laughed when the sunshine fell upon them; and the river itself +was alive and cheerful, and, by way of fun and amusement, it had swept +away many wreaths of meadow-hay, and old, rotten branches of trees, and +all such trumpery. These matters came floating downwards, whirling round +and round in the eddies, or hastening onward in the main current; and +many of them, before this time, have probably been carried into the +Merrimack, and will be borne onward to the sea. The spots where I stood +to fish, on my preceding excursion, were now under water; and the tops of +many of the bushes, along the river's margin, barely emerged from the +stream. Large spaces of meadow are overflowed. + +There was a northwest-wind throughout the day; and as many clouds, the +remnants of departed gloom, were scattered about the sky, the breeze was +continually blowing them across the sun. For the most part, they were +gone again in a moment; but sometimes the shadow remained long enough to +make me dread a return of sulky weather. Then would come the burst of +sunshine, making me feel as if a rainy day were henceforth an +impossibility. . . . + +In the afternoon Mr. Emerson called, bringing Mr. ------. He is a good +sort of humdrum parson enough, and well fitted to increase the stock of +manuscript sermons, of which there must be a fearful quantity already in +the world. Mr. ------, however, is probably one of the best and most +useful of his class, because no suspicion of the necessity of his +profession, constituted as it now is, to mankind, and of his own +usefulness and success in it, has hitherto disturbed him; and therefore +he labors with faith and confidence, as ministers did a hundred years +ago. + +After the visitors were gone, I sat at the gallery window, looking down +the avenue; and soon there appeared an elderly woman,--a homely, decent +old matron, dressed in a dark gown, and with what seemed a manuscript +book under her arm. The wind sported with her gown, and blew her veil +across her face, and seemed to make game of her, though on a nearer view +she looked like a sad old creature, with a pale, thin countenance, and +somewhat of a wild and wandering expression. She had a singular gait, +reeling, as it were, and yet not quite reeling, from one side of the path +to the other; going onward as if it were not much matter whether she went +straight or crooked. Such were my observations as she approached through +the scattered sunshine and shade of our long avenue, until, reaching the +door, she gave a knock, and inquired for the lady of the house. Her +manuscript contained a certificate, stating that the old woman was a +widow from a foreign land, who had recently lost her son, and was now +utterly destitute of friends and kindred, and without means of support. +Appended to the certificate there was a list of names of people who had +bestowed charity on her, with the amounts of their several donations,-- +none, as I recollect, higher than twenty-five cents. Here is a strange +life, and a character fit for romance and poetry. All the early part of +her life, I suppose, and much of her widowhood, were spent in the quiet +of a home, with kinsfolk around her, and children, and the lifelong +gossiping acquaintances that some women always create about them. But in +her decline she has wandered away from all these, and from her native +country itself, and is a vagrant, yet with something of the homeliness +and decency of aspect belonging to one who has been a wife and mother, +and has had a roof of her own above her head,--and, with all this, a +wildness proper to her present life. I have a liking for vagrants of all +sorts, and never, that I know of, refused my mite to a wandering beggar, +when I had anything in my own pocket. There is so much wretchedness in +the world, that we may safely take the word of any mortal professing to +need our assistance; and, even should we be deceived, still the good to +ourselves resulting from a kind act is worth more than the trifle by +which we purchase it. It is desirable, I think, that such persons should +be permitted to roam through our land of plenty, scattering the seeds of +tenderness and charity, as birds of passage bear the seeds of precious +plants from land to land, without even dreaming of the office which they +perform. + + +Thursday, September 1st.--Mr. Thoreau dined with us yesterday. . . . He +is a keen and delicate observer of nature,--a genuine observer,--which, I +suspect, is almost as rare a character as even an original poet; and +Nature, in return for his love, seems to adopt him as her especial child, +and shows him secrets which few others are allowed to witness. He is +familiar with beast, fish, fowl, and reptile, and has strange stories to +tell of adventures and friendly passages with these lower brethren of +mortality. Herb and flower, likewise, wherever they grow, whether in +garden or wildwood, are his familiar friends. He is also on intimate +terms with the clouds, and can tell the portents of storms. It is a +characteristic trait, that he has a great regard for the memory of the +Indian tribes, whose wild life would have suited him so well; and, +strange to say, he seldom walks over a ploughed field without picking up +an arrow-point, spearhead, or other relic of the red man, as if their +spirits willed him to be the inheritor of their simple wealth. + +With all this he has more than a tincture of literature,--a deep and true +taste for poetry, especially for the elder poets, and he is a good +writer,--at least he has written a good article, a rambling disquisition +on Natural History, in the last Dial, which, he says, was chiefly made up +from journals of his own observations. Methinks this article gives a +very fair image of his mind and character,--so true, innate, and literal +in observation, yet giving the spirit as well as letter of what he sees, +even as a lake reflects its wooded banks, showing every leaf, yet giving +the wild beauty of the whole scene. Then there are in the article +passages of cloudy and dreamy metaphysics, and also passages where his +thoughts seem to measure and attune themselves into spontaneous verse, as +they rightfully may, since there is real poetry in them. There is a +basis of good sense and of moral truth, too, throughout the article, +which also is a reflection of his character; for he is not unwise to +think and feel, and I find him a healthy and wholesome man to know. + +After dinner (at which we cut the first watermelon and muskmelon that our +garden has grown), Mr. Thoreau and I walked up the bank of the river, and +at a certain point he shouted for his boat. Forthwith a young man +paddled it across, and Mr. Thoreau and I voyaged farther up the stream, +which soon became more beautiful than any picture, with its dark and +quiet sheet of water, half shaded, half sunny, between high and wooded +banks. The late rains have swollen the stream so much that many trees +are standing up to their knees, as it were, in the water, and boughs, +which lately swung high in air, now dip and drink deep of the passing +wave. As to the poor cardinals which glowed upon the bank a few days +since, I could see only a few of their scarlet hats, peeping above the +tide. Mr. Thoreau managed the boat so perfectly, either with two paddles +or with one, that it seemed instinct with his own will, and to require no +physical effort to guide it. He said that, when some Indians visited +Concord a few years ago, he found that he had acquired, without a +teacher, their precise method of propelling and steering a canoe. +Nevertheless he was desirous of selling the boat of which he was so fit a +pilot, and which was built by his own hands; so I agreed to take it, and +accordingly became possessor of the Musketaquid. I wish I could acquire +the aquatic skill of the original owner. + + +September 2d.--Yesterday afternoon Mr. Thoreau arrived with the boat. +The adjacent meadow being overflowed by the rise of the stream, he had +rowed directly to the foot of the orchard, and landed at the bars, after +floating over forty or fifty yards of water where people were lately +making hay. I entered the boat with him, in order to have the benefit of +a lesson in rowing and paddling. . . . I managed, indeed, to propel the +boat by rowing with two oars, but the use of the single paddle is quite +beyond my present skill. Mr. Thoreau had assured me that it was only +necessary to will the boat to go in any particular direction, and she +would immediately take that course, as if imbued with the spirit of the +steersman. It may be so with him, but it is certainly not so with me. +The boat seemed to be bewitched, and turned its head to every point of +the compass except the right one. He then took the paddle himself, and, +though I could observe nothing peculiar in his management of it, the +Musketaquid immediately became as docile as a trained steed. I suspect +that she has not yet transferred her affections from her old master to +her new one. By and by, when we are better acquainted, she will grow +more tractable. . . . We propose to change her name from Musketaquid +(the Indian name of the Concord River, meaning the river of meadows) to +the Pond-Lily, which will be very beautiful and appropriate, as, during +the summer season, she will bring home many a cargo of pond-lilies from +along the river's weedy shore. It is not very likely that I shall make +such long voyages in her as Mr. Thoreau has made. He once followed our +river down to the Merrimack, and thence, I believe, to Newburyport in +this little craft. + +In the evening, ---- ------ called to see us, wishing to talk with me +about a Boston periodical, of which he had heard that I was to be editor, +and to which he desired to contribute. He is an odd and clever young +man, with nothing very peculiar about him,--some originality and +self-inspiration in his character, but none, or, very little, in his +intellect. Nevertheless, the lad himself seems to feel as if he were a +genius. I like him well enough, however; but, after all, these originals +in a small way, after one has seen a few of them, become more dull and +commonplace than even those who keep the ordinary pathway of life. They +have a rule and a routine, which they follow with as little variety as +other people do their rule and routine; and when once we have fathomed +their mystery, nothing can be more wearisome. An innate perception and +reflection of truth give the only sort of originality that does not +finally grow intolerable. + + +September 4th.--I made a voyage in the Pond-Lily all by myself yesterday +morning, and was much encouraged by my success in causing the boat to go +whither I would. I have always liked to be afloat, but I think I have +never adequately conceived of the enjoyment till now, when I begin to +feel a power over that which supports me. I suppose I must have felt +something like this sense of triumph when I first learned to swim; but I +have forgotten it. O that I could run wild!--that is, that I could put +myself into a true relation with Nature, and be on friendly terms with +all congenial elements. + +We had a thunder-storm last evening; and to-day has been a cool, breezy +autumnal day, such as my soul and body love. + + +September 18th.--How the summer-time flits away, even while it seems to +be loitering onward, arm in arm with autumn! Of late I have walked but +little over the hills and through the woods, my leisure being chiefly +occupied with my boat, which I have now learned to manage with tolerable +skill. Yesterday afternoon I made a voyage alone up the North Branch of +Concord River. There was a strong west-wind blowing dead against me, +which, together with the current, increased by the height of the water, +made the first part of the passage pretty toilsome. The black river was +all dimpled over with little eddies and whirlpools; and the breeze, +moreover, caused the billows to beat against the bow of the boat, with a +sound like the flapping of a bird's wing. The water-weeds, where they +were discernible through the tawny water, were straight outstretched by +the force of the current, looking as if they were forced to hold on to +their roots with all their might. If for a moment I desisted from +paddling, the head of the boat was swept round by the combined might of +wind and tide. However, I toiled onward stoutly, and, entering the North +Branch, soon found myself floating quietly along a tranquil stream, +sheltered from the breeze by the woods and a lofty hill. The current, +likewise, lingered along so gently that it was merely a pleasure to +propel the boat against it. I never could have conceived that there was +so beautiful a river-scene in Concord as this of the North Branch. The +stream flows through the midmost privacy and deepest heart of a wood, +which, as if but half satisfied with its presence, calm, gentle, and +unobtrusive as it is, seems to crowd upon it, and barely to allow it +passage; for the trees are rooted on the very verge of the water, and dip +their pendent branches into it. On one side there is a high bank, +forming the side of a hill, the Indian name of which I have forgotten, +though Mr. Thoreau told it to me; and here, in some instances, the trees +stand leaning over the river, stretching out their arms as if about to +plunge in headlong. On the other side, the bank is almost on a level +with the water; and there the quiet congregation of trees stood with feet +in the flood, and fringed with foliage down to its very surface. Vines +here and there twine themselves about bushes or aspens or alder-trees, +and hang their clusters (though scanty and infrequent this season) so +that I can reach them from my boat. I scarcely remember a scene of more +complete and lovely seclusion than the passage of the river through this +wood. Even an Indian canoe, in olden times, could not have floated +onward in deeper solitude than my boat. I have never elsewhere had such +an opportunity to observe how much more beautiful reflection is than what +we call reality. The sky, and the clustering foliage on either hand, and +the effect of sunlight as it found its way through the shade, giving +lightsome hues in contrast with the quiet depth of the prevailing tints, +--all these seemed unsurpassably beautiful when beheld in upper air. But +on gazing downward, there they were, the same even to the minutest +particular, yet arrayed in ideal beauty, which satisfied the spirit +incomparably more than the actual scene. I am half convinced that the +reflection is indeed the reality, the real thing which Nature imperfectly +images to our grosser sense. At any rate, the disembodied shadow is +nearest to the soul. + +There were many tokens of autumn in this beautiful picture. Two or three +of the trees were actually dressed in their coats of many colors,--the +real scarlet and gold which they wear before they put on mourning. These +stood on low, marshy spots, where a frost has probably touched them +already. Others were of a light, fresh green, resembling the hues of +spring, though this, likewise, is a token of decay. The great mass of +the foliage, however, appears unchanged; but ever and anon down came a +yellow leaf, half flitting upon the air, half falling through it, and +finally settling upon the water. A multitude of these were floating here +and there along the river, many of them curling upward, so as to form +little boats, fit for fairies to voyage in. They looked strangely +pretty, with yet a melancholy prettiness, as they floated along. The +general aspect of the river, however, differed but little from that of +summer,--at least the difference defies expression. It is more in the +character of the rich yellow sunlight than in aught else. The water of +the stream has now a thrill of autumnal coolness; yet whenever a broad +gleam fell across it, through an interstice of the foliage, multitudes of +insects were darting to and fro upon its surface. The sunshine, thus +falling across the dark river, has a most beautiful effect. It burnishes +it, as it were, and yet leaves it as dark as ever. + +On my return, I suffered the boat to float almost of its own will down +the stream, and caught fish enough for this morning's breakfast. But, +partly from a qualm of conscience, I finally put them all into the water +again, and saw them swim away as if nothing had happened. + + +Monday, October 10th.--A long while, indeed, since my last date. But the +weather has been generally sunny and pleasant, though often very cold; +and I cannot endure to waste anything so precious as autumnal sunshine by +staying in the house. So I have spent almost all the daylight hours in +the open air. My chief amusement has been boating up and down the river. +A week or two ago (September 27 and 28) I went on a pedestrian excursion +with Mr. Emerson, and was gone two days and one night, it being the first +and only night that I have spent away from home. We were that night at +the village of Harvard, and the next morning walked three miles farther, +to the Shaker village, where we breakfasted. Mr. Emerson had a +theological discussion with two of the Shaker brethren; but the +particulars of it have faded from my memory; and all the other adventures +of the tour have now so lost their freshness that I cannot adequately +recall them. Wherefore let them rest untold. I recollect nothing so +well as the aspect of some fringed gentians, which we saw growing by the +roadside, and which were so beautiful that I longed to turn back and +pluck them. After an arduous journey, we arrived safe home in the +afternoon of the second day,--the first time that I ever came home in my +life; for I never had a home before. On Saturday of the same week, my +friend D. R------ came to see us, and stayed till Tuesday morning. On +Wednesday there was a cattleshow in the village, of which I would give a +description, if it had possessed any picturesque points. The foregoing +are the chief outward events of our life. + +In the mean time autumn has been advancing, and is said to be a month +earlier than usual. We had frosts, sufficient to kill the bean and +squash vines, more than a fortnight ago; but there has since been some of +the most delicious Indian-summer weather that I ever experienced,--mild, +sweet, perfect days, in which the warm sunshine seemed to embrace the +earth and all earth's children with love and tenderness. Generally, +however, the bright days have been vexed with winds from the northwest, +somewhat too keen and high for comfort. These winds have strewn our +avenue with withered leaves, although the trees still retain some density +of foliage, which is now imbrowned or otherwise variegated by autumn. +Our apples, too, have been falling, falling, falling; and we have picked +the fairest of them from the dewy grass, and put them in our store-room +and elsewhere. On Thursday, John Flint began to gather those which +remained on the trees; and I suppose they will amount to nearly twenty +barrels, or perhaps more. As usual when I have anything to sell, apples +are very low indeed in price, and will not fetch me more than a dollar a +barrel. I have sold my share of the potato-field for twenty dollars and +ten bushels of potatoes for my own use. This may suffice for the +economical history of our recent life. + + +12 o'clock, M.--Just now I heard a sharp tapping at the window of my +study, and, looking up from my book (a volume of Rabelais), behold! the +head of a little bird, who seemed to demand admittance! He was probably +attempting to get a fly, which was on the pane of glass against which he +rapped; and on my first motion the feathered visitor took wing. This +incident had a curious effect on me. It impressed me as if the bird had +been a spiritual visitant, so strange was it that this little wild thing +should seem to ask our hospitality. + + +November 8th.--I am sorry that our journal has fallen so into neglect; +but I see no chance of amendment. All my scribbling propensities will be +far more than gratified in writing nonsense for the press; so that any +gratuitous labor of the pen becomes peculiarly distasteful. Since the +last date, we have paid a visit of nine days to Boston and Salem, whence +we returned a week ago yesterday. Thus we lost above a week of delicious +autumnal weather, which should have been spent in the woods or upon the +river. Ever since our return, however, until to-day, there has been a +succession of genuine Indian-summer days, with gentle winds or none at +all, and a misty atmosphere, which idealizes all nature, and a mild, +beneficent sunshine, inviting one to lie down in a nook and forget all +earthly care. To-day the sky is dark and lowering, and occasionally lets +fall a few sullen tears. I suppose we must bid farewell to Indian summer +now, and expect no more love and tenderness from Mother Nature till next +spring be well advanced. She has already made herself as unlovely in +outward aspect as can well be. We took a walk to Sleepy Hollow +yesterday, and beheld scarcely a green thing, except the everlasting +verdure of the family of pines, which, indeed, are trees to thank God for +at this season. A range of young birches had retained a pretty liberal +coloring of yellow or tawny leaves, which became very cheerful in the +sunshine. There were one or two oak-trees whose foliage still retained a +deep, dusky red, which looked rich and warm; but most of the oaks had +reached the last stage of autumnal decay,--the dusky brown hue. Millions +of their leaves strew the woods and rustle underneath the foot; but +enough remain upon the boughs to make a melancholy harping when the wind +sweeps over them. We found some fringed gentians in the meadow, most of +them blighted and withered; but a few were quite perfect. The other day, +since our return from Salem, I found a violet; yet it was so cold that +day, that a large pool of water, under the shadow of some trees, had +remained frozen from morning till afternoon. The ice was so thick as not +to be broken by some sticks and small stones which I threw upon it. But +ice and snow too will soon be no extraordinary matters with us. + +During the last week we have had three stoves put up, and henceforth no +light of a cheerful fire will gladden us at eventide. Stoves are +detestable in every respect, except that they keep us perfectly +comfortable. + + +Thursday, November 24th.--This is Thanksgiving Day, a good old festival, +and we have kept it with our hearts, and, besides, have made good cheer +upon our turkey and pudding, and pies and custards, although none sat at +our board but our two selves. There was a new and livelier sense, I +think, that we have at last found a home, and that a new family has been +gathered since the last Thanksgiving Day. There have been many bright +cold days latterly,--so cold that it has required a pretty rapid pace to +keep one's self warm a-walking. Day before yesterday I saw a party of +boys skating on a pond of water that has overflowed a neighboring meadow. +Running water has not yet frozen. Vegetation has quite come to a stand, +except in a few sheltered spots. In a deep ditch we found a tall plant +of the freshest and healthiest green, which looked as if it must have +grown within the last few weeks. We wander among the wood-paths, which +are very pleasant in the sunshine of the afternoons, the trees looking +rich and warm,--such of them, I mean, as have retained their russet +leaves; and where the leaves are strewn along the paths, or heaped +plentifully in some hollow of the hills, the effect is not without a +charm. To-day the morning rose with rain, which has since changed to +snow and sleet; and now the landscape is as dreary as can well be +imagined,--white, with the brownness of the soil and withered grass +everywhere peeping out. The swollen river, of a leaden hue, drags itself +sullenly along; and this may be termed the first winter's day. + + +Friday, March 31st, 1843.--The first month of spring is already gone; and +still the snow lies deep on hill and valley, and the river is still +frozen from bank to bank, although a late rain has caused pools of water +to stand on the surface of the ice, and the meadows are overflowed into +broad lakes. Such a protracted winter has not been known for twenty +years, at least. I have almost forgotten the wood-paths and shady places +which I used to know so well last summer; and my views are so much +confined to the interior of our mansion, that sometimes, looking out of +the window, I am surprised to catch a glimpse of houses, at no great +distance, which had quite passed out of my recollection. From present +appearances, another month may scarcely suffice to wash away all the snow +from the open country; and in the woods and hollows it may linger yet +longer. The winter will not have been a day less than five months long; +and it would not be unfair to call it seven. A great space, indeed, to +miss the smile of Nature, in a single year of human life. Even out of +the midst of happiness I have sometimes sighed and groaned; for I love +the sunshine and the green woods, and the sparkling blue water; and it +seems as if the picture of our inward bliss should be set in a beautiful +frame of outward nature. . . . As to the daily course of our life, I +have written with pretty commendable diligence, averaging from two to +four hours a day; and the result is seen in various magazines. I might +have written more, if it had seemed worth while; but I was content to +earn only so much gold as might suffice for our immediate wants, having +prospect of official station and emolument which would do away with the +necessity of writing for bread. Those prospects have not yet had their +fulfilment; and we are well content to wait, because an office would +inevitably remove us from our present happy home,--at least from an +outward home; for there is an inner one that will accompany us wherever +we go. Meantime, the magazine people do not pay their debts; so that we +taste some of the inconveniences of poverty. It is an annoyance, not a +trouble. + +Every day, I trudge through snow and slosh to the village, look into the +post-office, and spend an hour at the reading-room; and then return home, +generally without having spoken a word to a human being. . . . In the +way of exercise I saw and split wood, and, physically, I never was in a +better condition than now. This is chiefly owing, doubtless, to a +satisfied heart, in aid of which comes the exercise above mentioned, and +about a fair proportion of intellectual labor. + +On the 9th of this mouth, we left home again on a visit to Boston and +Salem. I alone went to Salem, where I resumed all my bachelor habits for +nearly a fortnight, leading the same life in which ten years of my youth +flitted away like a dream. But how much changed was I! At last I had +caught hold of a reality which never could be taken from me. It was good +thus to get apart from my happiness, for the sake of contemplating it. +On the 21st, I returned to Boston, and went out to Cambridge to dine with +Longfellow, whom I had not seen since his return from Europe. The next +day we came back to our old house, which had been deserted all this time; +for our servant had gone with us to Boston. + + +Friday, April 7th.--My wife has gone to Boston to see her sister M------, +who is to be married in two or three weeks, and then immediately to visit +Europe for six months. . . . I betook myself to sawing and splitting +wood; there being an inward unquietness which demanded active exercise, +and I sawed, I think, more briskly than ever before. When I re-entered +the house, it was with somewhat of a desolate feeling; yet not without an +intermingled pleasure, as being the more conscious that all separation +was temporary, and scarcely real, even for the little time that it may +last. After my solitary dinner, I lay down, with the Dial in my hand, +and attempted to sleep; but sleep would not come. . . . So I arose, and +began this record in the journal, almost at the commencement of which I +was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Thoreau, who came to return a book, +and to announce his purpose of going to reside at Staten Island, as +private tutor in the family of Mr. Emerson's brother. We had some +conversation upon this subject, and upon the spiritual advantages of +change of place, and upon the Dial, and upon Mr. Alcott, and other +kindred or concatenated subjects. I am glad, on Mr. Thoreau's own +account, that he is going away, as he is out of health, and may be +benefited by his removal; but, on my account, I should like to have him +remain here, he being one of the few persons, I think, with whom to hold +intercourse is like hearing the wind among the boughs of a forest-tree; +and, with all this wild freedom, there is high and classic cultivation in +him too. . . . + +I had a purpose, if circumstances would permit, of passing the whole term +of my wife's absence without speaking a word to any human being; but now +my Pythagorean vow has been broken, within three or four hours after her +departure. + + +Saturday, April 8th.--After journalizing yesterday afternoon, I went out +and sawed and split wood till teatime, then studied German (translating +Lenore), with an occasional glance at a beautiful sunset, which I could +not enjoy sufficiently by myself to induce me to lay aside the book. +After lamplight, finished Lenore, and drowsed over Voltaire's Candide, +occasionally refreshing myself with a tune from Mr. Thoreau's +musical-box, which he had left in my keeping. The evening was but a dull +one. + +I retired soon after nine, and felt some apprehension that the old +Doctor's ghost would take this opportunity to visit me; but I rather +think his former visitations have not been intended for me, and that I am +not sufficiently spiritual for ghostly communication. At all events, I +met with no disturbance of the kind, and slept soundly enough till six +o'clock or thereabouts. The forenoon was spent with the pen in my hand, +and sometimes I had the glimmering of an idea, and endeavored to +materialize it in words; but on the whole my mind was idly vagrant, and +refused to work to any systematic purpose. Between eleven and twelve I +went to the post-office, but found no letter; then spent above an hour +reading at the Athenaeum. On my way home, I encountered Mr. Flint, for +the first time these many weeks, although he is our next neighbor in one +direction. I inquired if he could sell us some potatoes, and he promised +to send half a bushel for trial. Also, he encouraged me to hope that he +might buy a barrel of our apples. After my encounter with Mr. Flint, I +returned to our lonely old abbey, opened the door without the usual +heart-spring, ascended to my study, and began to read a tale of Tieck. +Slow work, and dull work too! Anon, Molly, the cook, rang the bell for +dinner,--a sumptuous banquet of stewed veal and macaroni, to which I sat +down in solitary state. My appetite served me sufficiently to eat with, +but not for enjoyment. Nothing has a zest in my present widowed state. +[Thus far I had written, when Mr. Emerson called.] After dinner, I lay +down on the couch, with the Dial in my hand as a soporific, and had a +short nap; then began to journalize. + +Mr. Emerson came, with a sunbeam in his face; and we had as good a talk +as I ever remember to have had with him. He spoke of Margaret Fuller, +who, he says, has risen perceptibly into a higher state since their last +meeting. [There rings the tea-bell.] Then we discoursed of Ellery +Channing, a volume of whose poems is to be immediately published, with +revisions by Mr. Emerson himself and Mr. Sam G. Ward. . . . He calls +them "poetry for poets." Next Mr. Thoreau was discussed, and his +approaching departure; in respect to which we agreed pretty well. . . . +We talked of Brook Farm, and the singular moral aspects which it +presents, and the great desirability that its progress and developments +should be observed and its history written; also of C. N------, who, it +appears, is passing through a new moral phasis. He is silent, +inexpressive, talks little or none, and listens without response, except +a sardonic laugh; and some of his friends think that he is passing into +permanent eclipse. Various other matters were considered or glanced at, +and finally, between five and six o'clock, Mr. Emerson took his leave. I +then went out to chop wood, my allotted space for which had been very +much abridged by his visit; but I was not sorry. I went on with the +journal for a few minutes before tea, and have finished the present +record in the setting sunshine and gathering dusk. . . . + + +Salem.--. . . . Here I am, in my old chamber, where I produced those +stupendous works of fiction which have since impressed the universe with +wonderment and awe! To this chamber, doubtless, in all succeeding ages, +pilgrims will come to pay their tribute of reverence;--they will put off +their shoes at the threshold for fear of desecrating the tattered old +carpets! "There," they will exclaim, "is the very bed in which he +slumbered, and where he was visited by those ethereal visions which he +afterwards fixed forever in glowing words! There is the wash-stand at +which this exalted personage cleansed himself from the stains of earth, +and rendered his outward man a fitting exponent of the pure soul within. +There, in its mahogany frame, is the dressing-glass, which often +reflected that noble brow, those hyacinthine locks, that mouth bright +with smiles or tremulous with feeling, that flashing or melting eye, +that--in short, every item of the magnanimous face of this unexampled +man. There is the pine table,--there the old flag-bottomed chair on +which he sat, and at which he scribbled, during his agonies of +inspiration! There is the old chest of drawers in which he kept what +shirts a poor author may be supposed to have possessed! There is the +closet in which was reposited his threadbare suit of black! There is the +worn-out shoe-brush with which this polished writer polished his boots. +There is--" but I believe, this will be pretty much all, so here I close +the catalogue. . . . + +A cloudy veil stretches over the abyss of my nature. I have, however, no +love of secrecy and darkness. I am glad to think that God sees through +my heart, and, if any angel has power to penetrate into it, he is welcome +to know everything that is there. Yes, and so may any mortal who is +capable of full sympathy, and therefore worthy to come into my depths. +But he must find his own way there. I can neither guide nor enlighten +him. It is this involuntary reserve, I suppose, that has given the +objectivity to my writings; and when people think that I am pouring +myself out in a tale or an essay, I am merely telling what is common to +human nature, not what is peculiar to myself. I sympathize with them, +not they with me. . . . + +I have recently been both lectured about and preached about here in my +native city; the preacher was Rev. Mr. Fox of Newburyport; but how he +contrived to put me into a sermon I know not. I trust he took for his +text, "Behold an Israelite indeed, in whom there is no guile." + + +Salem, March 12th.--. . . . That poor home! how desolate it is now! Last +night, being awake, . . . . my thoughts travelled back to the lonely old +Manse; and it seemed as if I were wandering up stairs and down stairs all +by myself. My fancy was almost afraid to be there alone. I could see +every object in a dim, gray light,--our chamber, the study, all in +confusion; the parlor, with the fragments of that abortive breakfast on +the table, and the precious silver forks, and the old bronze image, +keeping its solitary stand upon the mantelpiece. Then, methought, the +wretched Vigwiggie came, and jumped upon the window-sill, and clung there +with her fore paws, mewing dismally for admittance, which I could not +grant her, being there myself only in the spirit. And then came the +ghost of the old Doctor, stalking through the gallery, and down the +staircase, and peeping into the parlor; and though I was wide awake, and +conscious of being so many miles from the spot, still it was quite awful +to think of the ghost having sole possession of our home; for I could not +quite separate myself from it, after all. Somehow the Doctor and I +seemed to be there tete-a-tete. . . . I believe I did not have any +fantasies about the ghostly kitchen-maid; but I trust Mary left the +flat-irons within her reach, so that she may do all her ironing while we +are away, and never disturb us more at midnight. I suppose she comes +thither to iron her shroud, and perhaps, likewise, to smooth the Doctor's +band. Probably, during her lifetime, she allowed him to go to some +ordination or other grand clerical celebration with rumpled linen, and +ever since, and throughout all earthly futurity (at least, as long as the +house shall stand), she is doomed to exercise a nightly toil with a +spiritual flat-iron. Poor sinner!--and doubtless Satan heats the irons +for her. What nonsense is all this! but, really, it does make me shiver +to think of that poor home of ours. + + +March 16th.--. . . . As for this Mr. ------, I wish he would not be so +troublesome. His scheme is well enough, and might possibly become +popular; but it has no peculiar advantages with reference to myself, nor +do the subjects of his proposed books particularly suit my fancy as +themes to write upon. Somebody else will answer his purpose just as +well; and I would rather write books of my own imagining than be hired to +develop the ideas of an engraver; especially as the pecuniary prospect is +not better, nor so good, as it might be elsewhere. I intend to adhere to +my former plan of writing one or two mythological story-books, to be +published under O'Sullivan's auspices in New York,---which is the only +place where books can be published with a chance of profit. As a matter +of courtesy, I may call on Mr. ------, if I have time; but I do not +intend to be connected with this affair. + + +Sunday, April 9th.--. . . . After finishing my record in the journal, I +sat a long time in grandmother's chair, thinking of many things. . . . +My spirits were at a lower ebb than they ever descend to when I am not +alone; nevertheless, neither was I absolutely sad. Many times I wound +and rewound Mr. Thoreau's little musical-box; but certainly its peculiar +sweetness had evaporated, and I am pretty sure that I should throw it out +of the window were I doomed to hear it long and often. It has not an +infinite soul. When it was almost as dark as the moonlight would let it +be, I lighted the lamp, and went on with Tieck's tale, slowly and +painfully, often wishing for help in my difficulties. At last I +determined to learn a little about pronouns and verbs before proceeding +further, and so took up the phrase-book, with which I was commendably +busy, when, at about a quarter to nine, came a knock at my study door, +and, behold, there was Molly with a letter! How she came by it I did not +ask, being content to suppose it was brought by a heavenly messenger. I +had not expected a letter; and what a comfort it was to me in my +loneliness and sombreness! I called Molly to take her note (enclosed), +which she received with a face of delight as broad and bright as the +kitchen fire. Then I read, and re-read, and re-re-read, and quadruply, +quintuply, and sextuply re-read my epistle, until I had it all by heart, +and then continued to re-read it for the sake of the penmanship. Then I +took up the phrase-book again; but could not study, and so bathed and +retired, it being now not far from ten o'clock. I lay awake a good deal +in the night, but saw no ghost. + +I arose about seven, and found that the upper part of my nose, and the +region round about, was grievously discolored; and at the angle of the +left eye there is a great spot of almost black purple, and a broad streak +of the same hue semicircling beneath either eye, while green, yellow, and +orange overspread the circumjacent country. It looks not unlike a +gorgeous sunset, throwing its splendor over the heaven of my countenance. +It will behoove me to show myself as little as possible, else people will +think I have fought a pitched battle. . . . The Devil take the stick of +wood! What had I done, that it should bemaul me so? However, there is +no pain, though, I think, a very slight affection of the eyes. + +This forenoon I began to write, and caught an idea by the skirts, which I +intend to hold fast, though it struggles to get free. As it was not +ready to be put upon paper, however, I took up the Dial, and finished +reading the article on Mr. Alcott. It is not very satisfactory, and it +has not taught me much. Then I read Margaret's article on Canova, which +is good. About this time the dinner-bell rang, and I went down without +much alacrity, though with a good appetite enough. . . . It was in the +angle of my right eye, not my left, that the blackest purple was +collected. But they both look like the very Devil. + +Half past five o'clock.--After writing the above, . . . . I again set to +work on Tieck's tale, and worried through several pages; and then, at +half past four, threw open one of the western windows of my study, and +sallied forth to take the sunshine. I went down through the orchard to +the river-side. The orchard-path is still deeply covered with snow; and +so is the whole visible universe, except streaks upon the hillsides, and +spots in the sunny hollows, where the brown earth peeps through. The +river, which a few days ago was entirely imprisoned, has now broken its +fetters; but a tract of ice extended across from near the foot of the +monument to the abutment of the old bridge, and looked so solid that I +supposed it would yet remain for a day or two. Large cakes and masses of +ice came floating down the current, which, though not very violent, +hurried along at a much swifter pace than the ordinary one of our +sluggish river-god. These ice-masses, when they struck the barrier of +ice above mentioned, acted upon it like a battering-ram, and were +themselves forced high out of the water, or sometimes carried beneath the +main sheet of ice. At last, down the stream came an immense mass of ice, +and, striking the barrier about at its centre, it gave way, and the whole +was swept onward together, leaving the river entirely free, with only +here and there a cake of ice floating quietly along. The great +accumulation, in its downward course, hit against a tree that stood in +mid-current, and caused it to quiver like a reed; and it swept quite over +the shrubbery that bordered what, in summer-time, is the river's bank, +but which is now nearly the centre of the stream. Our river in its +present state has quite a noble breadth. The little hillock which formed +the abutment of the old bridge is now an island with its tuft of trees. +Along the hither shore a row of trees stand up to their knees, and the +smaller ones to their middles, in the water; and afar off, on the surface +of the stream, we see tufts of bushes emerging, thrusting up their heads, +as it were, to breathe. The water comes over the stone-wall, and +encroaches several yards on the boundaries of our orchard. [Here the +supper-bell rang.] If our boat were in good order, I should now set +forth on voyages of discovery, and visit nooks on the borders of the +meadows, which by and by will be a mile or two from the water's edge. +But she is in very bad condition, full of water, and, doubtless, as leaky +as a sieve. + +On coming from supper, I found that little Puss had established herself +in the study, probably with intent to pass the night here. She now lies +on the footstool between my feet, purring most obstreperously. The day +of my wife's departure, she came to me, talking with the greatest +earnestness; but whether it was to condole with me on my loss, or to +demand my redoubled care for herself, I could not well make out. As Puss +now constitutes a third part of the family, this mention of her will not +appear amiss. How Molly employs herself, I know not. Once in a while, I +hear a door slam like a thunder-clap; but she never shows her face, nor +speaks a word, unless to announce a visitor or deliver a letter. This +day, on my part, will have been spent without exchanging a syllable with +any human being, unless something unforeseen should yet call for the +exercise of speech before bedtime. + + +Monday, April 10th.--I sat till eight o'clock, meditating upon this world +and the next, . . . . and sometimes dimly shaping out scenes of a tale. +Then betook myself to the German phrase-book. Ah! these are but dreary +evenings. The lamp would not brighten my spirits, though it was duly +filled. . . . This forenoon was spent in scribbling, by no means to my +satisfaction, until past eleven, when I went to the village. Nothing in +our box at the post-office. I read during the customary hour, or more, +at the Athenaeum, and returned without saying a word to mortal. I +gathered, from some conversation that I heard, that a son of Adam is to +be buried this afternoon from the meeting-house; but the name of the +deceased escaped me. It is no great matter, so it be but written in the +Book of Life. + +My variegated face looks somewhat more human to-day; though I was +unaffectedly ashamed to meet anybody's gaze, and therefore turned my back +or my shoulder as much as possible upon the world. At dinner, behold an +immense joint of roast veal! I would willingly have had some assistance +in the discussion of this great piece of calf. I am ashamed to eat +alone; it becomes the mere gratification of animal appetite,--the tribute +which we are compelled to pay to our grosser nature; whereas in the +company of another it is refined and moralized and spiritualized; and +over our earthly victuals (or rather vittles, for the former is a very +foolish mode of spelling),--over our earthly vittles is diffused a sauce +of lofty and gentle thoughts, and tough meat is mollified with tender +feelings. But oh! these solitary meals are the dismallest part of my +present experience. When the company rose from table, they all, in my +single person, ascended to the study, and employed themselves in reading +the article on Oregon in the Democratic Review. Then they plodded onward +in the rugged and bewildering depths of Tieck's tale until five o'clock, +when, with one accord, they went out to split wood. This has been a +gray day, with now and then a sprinkling of snow-flakes through the +air. . . . To-day no more than yesterday have I spoken a word to +mortal. . . . It is now sunset, and I must meditate till dark. + + +April 11th.--I meditated accordingly, but without any very wonderful +result. Then at eight o'clock bothered myself till after nine with this +eternal tale of Tieck. The forenoon was spent in scribbling; but at +eleven o'clock my thoughts ceased to flow,--indeed, their current has +been wofully interrupted all along,--so I threw down my pen, and set out +on the daily journey to the village. Horrible walking! I wasted the +customary hour at the Athenaeum, and returned home, if home it may now be +called. Till dinner-time I labored on Tieck's tale, and resumed that +agreeable employment after the banquet. + +Just when I was on the point of choking with a huge German word, Molly +announced Mr. Thoreau. He wished to take a row in the boat, for the last +time, perhaps, before he leaves Concord. So we emptied the water out of +her, and set forth on our voyage. She leaks, but not more than she did +in the autumn. We rowed to the foot of the hill which borders the North +Branch, and there landed, and climbed the moist and snowy hillside for +the sake of the prospect. Looking down the river, it might well have +been mistaken for an arm of the sea, so broad is now its swollen tide; +and I could have fancied that, beyond one other headland, the mighty +ocean would outspread itself before the eye. On our return we boarded a +large cake of ice, which was floating down the river, and were borne by +it directly to our own landing-place, with the boat towing behind. + +Parting with Mr. Thoreau, I spent half an hour in chopping wood, when +Molly informed me that Mr. Emerson wished to see me. He had brought a +letter of Ellery Channing, written in a style of very pleasant humor. +This being read and discussed, together with a few other matters, he took +his leave, since which I have been attending to my journalizing duty; and +thus this record is brought down to the present moment. + + +April 25th.--Spring is advancing, sometimes with sunny days, and +sometimes, as is the case now, with chill, moist, sullen ones. There is +an influence in the season that makes it almost impossible for me to +bring my mind down to literary employment; perhaps because several +months' pretty constant work has exhausted that species of energy,-- +perhaps because in spring it is more natural to labor actively than to +think. But my impulse now is to be idle altogether,--to lie in the sun, +or wander about and look at the revival of Nature from her death-like +slumber, or to be borne down the current of the river in my boat. If I +had wings, I would gladly fly; yet would prefer to be wafted along by a +breeze, sometimes alighting on a patch of green grass, then gently +whirled away to a still sunnier spot. . . . O, how blest should I be +were there nothing to do! Then I would watch every inch and +hair's-breadth of the progress of the season; and not a leaf should put +itself forth, in the vicinity of our old mansion, without my noting it. +But now, with the burden of a continual task upon me, I have not freedom +of mind to make such observations. I merely see what is going on in a +very general way. The snow, which, two or three weeks ago, covered hill +and valley, is now diminished to one or two solitary specks in the +visible landscape; though doubtless there are still heaps of it in the +shady places in the woods. There have been no violent rains to carry it +off: it has diminished gradually, inch by inch, and day after day; and I +observed, along the roadside, that the green blades of grass had +sometimes sprouted on the very edge of the snowdrift the moment that the +earth was uncovered. + +The pastures and grass-fields have not yet a general effect of green; nor +have they that cheerless brown tint which they wear in later autumn, when +vegetation has entirely ceased. There is now a suspicion of verdure,-- +the faint shadow of it,--but not the warm reality. Sometimes, in a happy +exposure,--there is one such tract across the river, the carefully +cultivated mowing-field, in front of an old red homestead,--such patches +of land wear a beautiful and tender green, which no other season will +equal; because, let the grass be green as it may hereafter, it will not +be so set off by surrounding barrenness. The trees in our orchard, and +elsewhere, have as yet no leaves; yet to the most careless eye they +appear full of life and vegetable blood. It seems as if, by one magic +touch, they might instantaneously put forth all their foliage, and the +wind, which now sighs through their naked branches, might all at once +find itself impeded by innumerable leaves. This sudden development would +be scarcely more wonderful than the gleam of verdure which often +brightens, in a moment, as it were, along the slope of a bank or +roadside. It is like a gleam of sunlight. Just now it was brown, like +the rest of the scenery: look again, and there is an apparition of green +grass. The Spring, no doubt, comes onward with fleeter footsteps, +because Winter has lingered so long that, at best, she can hardly +retrieve half the allotted term of her reign. + +The river, this season, has encroached farther on the land than it has +been known to do for twenty years past. It has formed along its course a +succession of lakes, with a current through the midst. My boat has lain +at the bottom of the orchard, in very convenient proximity to the house. +It has borne me over stone fences; and, a few days ago, Ellery Channing +and I passed through two rails into the great northern road, along which +we paddled for some distance. The trees have a singular appearance in +the midst of waters. The curtailment of their trunks quite destroys the +proportions of the whole tree; and we become conscious of a regularity +and propriety in the forms of Nature, by the effect of this abbreviation. +The waters are now subsiding, but gradually. Islands become annexed to +the mainland, and other islands emerge from the flood, and will soon, +likewise, be connected with the continent. We have seen on a small scale +the process of the deluge, and can now witness that of the reappearance +of the earth. + +Crows visited us long before the snow was off. They seem mostly to have +departed now, or else to have betaken themselves to remote depths of the +woods, which they haunt all summer long. Ducks came in great numbers, +and many sportsmen went in pursuit of them, along the river; but they +also have disappeared. Gulls come up from seaward, and soar high +overhead, flapping their broad wings in the upper sunshine. They are +among the most picturesque birds that I am acquainted with; indeed, quite +the most so, because the manner of their flight makes them almost +stationary parts of the landscape. The imagination has time to rest upon +them; they have not flitted away in a moment. You go up among the +clouds, and lay hold of these soaring gulls, and repose with them upon +the sustaining atmosphere. The smaller birds,--the birds that build +their nests in our trees, and sing for us at morning-red,--I will not +describe. . . . But I must mention the great companies of blackbirds-- +more than the famous "four-and-twenty" who were baked in a pie--that +congregate on the tops of contiguous trees, and vociferate with all the +clamor of a turbulent political meeting. Politics must certainly be the +subject of such a tumultuous debate; but still there is a melody in each +individual utterance, and a harmony in the general effect. Mr. Thoreau +tells me that these noisy assemblages consist of three different species +of blackbirds; but I forget the other two. Robins have been long among +us, and swallows have more recently arrived. + + +April 26th.--Here is another misty day, muffling the sun. The +lilac-shrubs under my study window are almost in leaf. In two or three +days more, I may put forth my hand and pluck a green bough. These lilacs +appear to be very aged, and have lost the luxuriant foliage of their +prime. Old age has a singular aspect in lilacs, rose-bushes, and other +ornamental shrubs. It seems as if such things, as they grow only for +beauty, ought to flourish in immortal youth, or at least to die before +their decrepitude. They are trees of Paradise, and therefore not +naturally subject to decay; but have lost their birthright by being +transplanted hither. There is a kind of ludicrous unfitness in the idea +of a venerable rose-bush; and there is something analogous to this in +human life. Persons who can only be graceful and ornamental--who can +give the world nothing but flowers--should die young, and never be seen +with gray hairs and wrinkles, any more than the flower-shrubs with mossy +bark and scanty foliage, like the lilacs under my window. Not that +beauty is not worthy of immortality. Nothing else, indeed, is worthy of +it; and thence, perhaps, the sense of impropriety when we see it +triumphed over by time. Apple-trees, on the other hand, grow old without +reproach. Let them live as long as they may, and contort themselves in +whatever fashion they please, they are still respectable, even if they +afford us only an apple or two in a season, or none at all. Human +flower-shrubs, if they will grow old on earth, should, beside their +lovely blossoms, bear some kind of fruit that will satisfy earthly +appetites; else men will not be satisfied that the moss should gather on +them. + +Winter and Spring are now struggling for the mastery in my study; and I +yield somewhat to each, and wholly to neither. The window is open, and +there is a fire in the stove. The day when the window is first thrown +open should be an epoch in the year; but I have forgotten to record it. +Seventy or eighty springs have visited this old house; and sixty of them +found old Dr. Ripley here,--not always old, it is true, but gradually +getting wrinkles and gray hairs, and looking more and more the picture of +winter. But he was no flower-shrub, but one of those fruit-trees or +timber-trees that acquire a grace with their old age. Last Spring found +this house solitary for the first time since it was built; and now again +she peeps into our open windows and finds new faces here. . . . + +It is remarkable how much uncleanness winter brings with it, or leaves +behind it. . . . The yard, garden, and avenue, which should be my +department, require a great amount of labor. The avenue is strewed with +withered leaves,--the whole crop, apparently, of last year,--some of +which are now raked into heaps; and we intend to make a bonfire of +them. . . . There are quantities of decayed branches, which one tempest +after another has flung down, black and rotten. In the garden are the +old cabbages which we did not think worth gathering last autumn, and the +dry bean-vines, and the withered stalks of the asparagus-bed; in short, +all the wrecks of the departed year,--its mouldering relics, its dry +bones. It is a pity that the world cannot be made over anew every +spring. Then, in the yard, there are the piles of firewood, which I +ought to have sawed and thrown into the shed long since, but which will +cumber the earth, I fear, till June, at least. Quantities of chips are +strewn about, and on removing them we find the yellow stalks of grass +sprouting underneath. Nature does her best to beautify this disarray. +The grass springs up most industriously, especially in sheltered and +sunny angles of the buildings, or round the doorsteps,--a locality which +seems particularly favorable to its growth; for it is already high enough +to bend over and wave in the wind. I was surprised to observe that some +weeds (especially a plant that stains the fingers with its yellow juice) +had lived, and retained their freshness and sap as perfectly as in +summer, through all the frosts and snows of last winter. I saw them, the +last green thing, in the autumn; and here they are again, the first in +the spring. + + +Thursday, April 27th.--I took a walk into the fields, and round our +opposite hill, yesterday noon, but made no very remarkable observation. +The frogs have begun their concerts, though not as yet with a full choir. +I found no violets nor anemones, nor anything in the likeness of a +flower, though I looked carefully along the shelter of the stone-walls, +and in all spots apparently propitious. I ascended the hill, and had a +wide prospect of a swollen river, extending around me in a semicircle of +three or four miles, and rendering the view much finer than in summer, +had there only been foliage. It seemed like the formation of a new +world; for islands were everywhere emerging, and capes extending forth +into the flood; and these tracts, which were thus won from the watery +empire, were among the greenest in the landscape. The moment the deluge +leaves them, Nature asserts them to be her property by covering them with +verdure; or perhaps the grass had been growing under the water. On the +hill-top where I stood, the grass had scarcely begun to sprout; and I +observed that even those places which looked greenest in the distance +were but scantily grass-covered when I actually reached them. It was +hope that painted them so bright. + +Last evening we saw a bright light on the river, betokening that a boat's +party were engaged in spearing fish. It looked like a descended star,-- +like red Mars,--and, as the water was perfectly smooth, its gleam was +reflected downward into the depths. It is a very picturesque sight. In +the deep quiet of the night I suddenly heard the light and lively note of +a bird from a neighboring tree,--a real song, such as those which greet +the purple dawn, or mingle with the yellow sunshine. What could the +little bird mean by pouring it forth at midnight? Probably the note +gushed out from the midst of a dream, in which he fancied himself in +Paradise with his mate; and, suddenly awaking, he found he was on a cold, +leafless bough, with a New England mist penetrating through his feathers. +That was a sad exchange of imagination for reality; but if he found his +mate beside him, all was well. + +This is another misty morning, ungenial in aspect, but kinder than it +looks; for it paints the hills and valleys with a richer brush than the +sunshine could. There is more verdure now than when I looked out of the +window an hour ago. The willow-tree opposite my study window is ready to +put forth its leaves. There are some objections to willows. It is not a +dry and cleanly tree; it impresses me with an association of sliminess; +and no trees, I think, are perfectly satisfactory, which have not a firm +and hard texture of trunk and branches. But the willow is almost the +earliest to put forth its leaves, and the last to scatter them on the +ground; and during the whole winter its yellow twigs give it a sunny +aspect, which is not without a cheering influence in a proper point of +view. Our old house would lose much were this willow to be cut down, +with its golden crown over the roof in winter, and its heap of summer +verdure. The present Mr. Ripley planted it, fifty years ago, or +thereabouts. + + +Friday, June 2d.--Last night there came a frost, which has done great +damage to my garden. The beans have suffered very much, although, +luckily, not more than half that I planted have come up. The squashes, +both summer and winter, appear to be almost killed. As to the other +vegetables, there is little mischief done,--the potatoes not being yet +above ground, except two or three; and the peas and corn are of a hardier +nature. It is sad that Nature will so sport with us poor mortals, +inviting us with sunny smiles to confide in her; and then, when we are +entirely in her power, striking us to the heart. Our summer commences at +the latter end of June, and terminates somewhere about the first of +August. There are certainly not more than six weeks of the whole year +when a frost may be deemed anything remarkable. + + +Friday, June 23d.--Summer has come at last,--the longest days, with +blazing sunshine, and fervid heat. Yesterday glowed like molten brass. +Last night was the most uncomfortably and unsleepably sultry that we have +experienced since our residence in Concord; and to-day it scorches again. +I have a sort of enjoyment in these seven-times-heated furnaces of +midsummer, even though they make me droop like a thirsty plant. The +sunshine can scarcely be too burning for my taste; but I am no enemy to +summer showers. Could I only have the freedom to be perfectly idle now, +--no duty to fulfil, no mental or physical labor to perform,--I should be +as happy as a squash, and much in the same mode; but the necessity of +keeping my brain at work eats into my comfort, as the squash-bugs do into +the heart of the vines. I keep myself uneasy and produce little, and +almost nothing that is worth producing. + +The garden looks well now: the potatoes flourish; the early corn waves in +the wind; the squashes, both for summer and winter use, are more forward, +I suspect, than those of any of my neighbors. I am forced, however, to +carry on a continual warfare with the squash-bugs, who, were I to let +them alone for a day, would perhaps quite destroy the prospects of the +whole summer. It is impossible not to feel angry with these +unconscionable insects, who scruple not to do such excessive mischief to +me, with only the profit of a meal or two to themselves. For their own +sakes they ought at least to wait till the squashes are better grown. +Why is it, I wonder, that Nature has provided such a host of enemies for +every useful esculent, while the weeds are suffered to grow unmolested, +and are provided with such tenacity of life, and such methods of +propagation, that the gardener must maintain a continual struggle or they +will hopelessly overwhelm him? What hidden virtue is in these things, +that it is granted them to sow themselves with the wind, and to grapple +the earth with this immitigable stubbornness, and to flourish in spite of +obstacles, and never to suffer blight beneath any sun or shade, but +always to mock their enemies with the same wicked luxuriance? It is +truly a mystery, and also a symbol. There is a sort of sacredness about +them. Perhaps, if we could penetrate Nature's secrets, we should find +that what we call weeds are more essential to the well-being of the world +than the most precious fruit or grain. This may be doubted, however, for +there is an unmistakable analogy between these wicked weeds and the bad +habits and sinful propensities which have overrun the moral world; and we +may as well imagine that there is good in one as in the other. + +Our peas are in such forwardness that I should not wonder if we had some +of them on the table within a week. The beans have come up ill, and I +planted a fresh supply only the day before yesterday. We have +watermelons in good advancement, and muskmelons also within three or four +days. I set out some tomatoes last night, also some capers. It is my +purpose to plant some more corn at the end of the month, or sooner. +There ought to be a record of the flower-garden, and of the procession of +the wild-flowers, as minute, at least, as of the kitchen vegetables and +pot-herbs. Above all, the noting of the appearance of the first roses +should not be omitted; nor of the Arethusa, one of the delicatest, +gracefullest, and in every manner sweetest of the whole race of flowers. +For a fortnight past I have found it in the swampy meadows, growing up to +its chin in heaps of wet moss. Its hue is a delicate pink, of various +depths of shade, and somewhat in the form of a Grecian helmet. To +describe it is a feat beyond my power. Also the visit of two friends, +who may fitly enough be mentioned among flowers, ought to have been +described. Mrs. F. S------ and Miss A. S------. Also I have neglected +to mention the birth of a little white dove. + +I never observed, until the present season, how long and late the +twilight lingers in these longest days. The orange line of the western +horizon remains till ten o'clock, at least, and how much later I am +unable to say. The night before last, I could distinguish letters by +this lingering gleam between nine and ten o'clock. The dawn, I suppose, +shows itself as early as two o'clock, so that the absolute dominion of +night has dwindled to almost nothing. There seems to be also a +diminished necessity, or, at all events, a much less possibility, of +sleep than at other periods of the year. I get scarcely any sound repose +just now. It is summer, and not winter, that steals away mortal life. +Well, we get the value of what is taken from us. + + +Saturday, July 1st.--We had our first dish of green peas (a very small +one) yesterday. Every day for the last week has been tremendously hot; +and our garden flourishes like Eden itself, only Adam could hardly have +been doomed to contend with such a ferocious banditti of weeds. + + +Sunday, July 9th.--I know not what to say, and yet cannot be satisfied +without marking with a word or two this anniversary. . . . But life now +swells and heaves beneath me like a brim-full ocean; and the endeavor to +comprise any portion of it in words is like trying to dip up the ocean in +a goblet. . . . God bless and keep us! for there is something more +awful in happiness than in sorrow,--the latter being earthly and finite, +the former composed of the substance and texture of eternity, so that +spirits still embodied may well tremble at it. + + +July 18th.--This morning I gathered our first summer-squashes. We should +have had them some days earlier, but for the loss of two of the vines, +either by a disease of the roots or by those infernal bugs. We have had +turnips and carrots several times. Currants are now ripe, and we are in +the full enjoyment of cherries, which turn out much more delectable than +I anticipated. George Hillard and Mrs. Hillard paid us a visit on +Saturday last. On Monday afternoon he left us, and Mrs. Hillard still +remains here. + + +Friday, July 28th.--We had green corn for dinner yesterday, and shall +have some more to-day, not quite full grown, but sufficiently so to be +palatable. There has been no rain, except one moderate shower, for many +weeks; and the earth appears to be wasting away in a slow fever. This +weather, I think, affects the spirits very unfavorably. There is an +irksomeness, a restlessness, a pervading dissatisfaction, together with +an absolute incapacity to bend the mind to any serious effort. With me, +as regards literary production, the summer has been unprofitable; and I +only hope that my forces are recruiting themselves for the autumn and +winter. For the future, I shall endeavor to be so diligent nine months +of the year that I may allow myself a full and free vacation of the other +three. + + +Monday, July 31st.--We had our first cucumber yesterday. There were +symptoms of rain on Saturday, and the weather has since been as moist as +the thirstiest soul could desire. + + +Wednesday, September 13th.--There was a frost the night before last, +according to George Prescott; but no effects of it were visible in our +garden. Last night, however, there was another, which has nipped the +leaves of the winter-squashes and cucumbers, but seems to have done no +other damage. This is a beautiful morning, and promises to be one of +those heavenly days that render autumn, after all, the most delightful +season of the year. We mean to make a voyage on the river this +afternoon. + + +Sunday, September 23d.--I have gathered the two last of our +summer-squashes to-day. They have lasted ever since the 18th of July, +and have numbered fifty-eight edible ones, of excellent quality. Last +Wednesday, I think, I harvested our winter-squashes, sixty-three in +number, and mostly of fine size. Our last series of green corn, planted +about the 1st of July, was good for eating two or three days ago. We +still have beans; and our tomatoes, though backward, supply us with a +dish every day or two. My potato-crop promises well; and, on the whole, +my first independent experiment of agriculture is quite a successful one. + +This is a glorious day,--bright, very warm, yet with an unspeakable +gentleness both in its warmth and brightness. On such days it is +impossible not to love Nature, for she evidently loves us. At other +seasons she does not give me this impression, or only at very rare +intervals; but in these happy, autumnal days, when she has perfected the +harvests, and accomplished every necessary thing that she had to do, she +overflows with a blessed superfluity of love. It is good to be alive +now. Thank God for breath,--yes, for mere breath! when it is made up of +such a heavenly breeze as this. It comes to the cheek with a real kiss; +it would linger fondly around us, if it might; but, since it must be +gone, it caresses us with its whole kindly heart, and passes onward, to +caress likewise the next thing that it meets. There is a pervading +blessing diffused over all the world. I look out of the window and +think, "O perfect day! O beautiful world! O good God!" And such a day +is the promise of a blissful eternity. Our Creator would never have made +such weather; and given us the deep heart to enjoy it, above and beyond +all thought, if he had not meant us to be immortal. It opens the gates +of heaven, and gives us glimpses far inward. + +Bless me! this flight has carried me a great way; so now let me come back +to our old abbey. Our orchard is fast ripening; and the apples and great +thumping pears strew the grass in such abundance that it becomes almost a +trouble--though a pleasant one--to gather them. This happy breeze, too, +shakes them down, as if it flung fruit to us out of the sky; and often, +when the air is perfectly still, I hear the quiet fall of a great apple. +Well, we are rich in blessings, though poor in money. . . . + + +Friday, October 6th.--Yesterday afternoon I took a solitary walk to +Walden Pond. It was a cool, windy day, with heavy clouds rolling and +tumbling about the sky, but still a prevalence of genial autumn sunshine. +The fields are still green, and the great masses of the woods have not +yet assumed their many-colored garments; but here and there are solitary +oaks of deep, substantial red, or maples of a more brilliant hue, or +chestnuts either yellow or of a tenderer green than in summer. Some +trees seem to return to their hue of May or early June before they put on +the brighter autumnal tints. In some places, along the borders of low +and moist land, a whole range of trees were clothed in the perfect +gorgeousness of autumn, of all shades of brilliant color, looking like +the palette on which Nature was arranging the tints wherewith to paint a +picture. These hues appeared to be thrown together without design; and +yet there was perfect harmony among them, and a softness and a delicacy +made up of a thousand different brightnesses. There is not, I think, so +much contrast among these colors as might at first appear. The more you +consider them, the more they seem to have one element among them all, +which is the reason that the most brilliant display of them soothes the +observer, instead of exciting him. And I know not whether it be more a +moral effect or a physical one, operating merely on the eye; but it is a +pensive gayety, which causes a sigh often, and never a smile. We never +fancy, for instance, that these gayly clad trees might be changed into +young damsels in holiday attire, and betake themselves to dancing on the +plain. If they were to undergo such a transformation, they would surely +arrange themselves in funeral procession, and go sadly along, with their +purple and scarlet and golden garments trailing over the withering grass. +When the sunshine falls upon them, they seem to smile; but it is as if +they were heart-broken. But it is in vain for me to attempt to describe +these autumnal brilliancies, or to convey the impression which they make +on me. I have tried a thousand times, and always without the slightest +self-satisfaction. Fortunately there is no need of such a record, for +Nature renews the picture year after year; and even when we shall have +passed away from the world, we can spiritually create these scenes, so +that we may dispense with all efforts to put them into words. + +Walden Pond was clear and beautiful as usual. It tempted me to bathe; +and, though the water was thrillingly cold, it was like the thrill of a +happy death. Never was there such transparent water as this. I threw +sticks into it, and saw them float suspended on an almost invisible +medium. It seemed as if the pure air were beneath them, as well as +above. It is fit for baptisms; but one would not wish it to be polluted +by having sins washed into it. None but angels should bathe in it; but +blessed babies might be dipped into its bosom. + +In a small and secluded dell that opens upon the most beautiful cove of +the whole lake, there is a little hamlet of huts or shanties, inhabited +by the Irish people who are at work upon the railroad. There are three +or four of these habitations, the very rudest, I should imagine, that +civilized men ever made for themselves,--constructed of rough boards, +with the protruding ends. Against some of them the earth is heaped up to +the roof, or nearly so; and when the grass has had time to sprout upon +them, they will look like small natural hillocks, or a species of +ant-hills,--something in which Nature has a larger share than man. These +huts are placed beneath the trees, oaks, walnuts, and white-pines, +wherever the trunks give them space to stand; and by thus adapting +themselves to natural interstices, instead of making new ones, they do +not break or disturb the solitude and seclusion of the place. Voices are +heard, and the shouts and laughter of children, who play about like the +sunbeams that come down through the branches. Women are washing in open +spaces, and long lines of whitened clothes are extended from tree to +tree, fluttering and gambolling in the breeze. A pig, in a sty even more +extemporary than the shanties, is grunting and poking his snout through +the clefts of his habitation. The household pots and kettles are seen at +the doors; and a glance within shows the rough benches that serve for +chairs, and the bed upon the floor. The visitor's nose takes note of the +fragrance of a pipe. And yet, with all these homely items, the repose +and sanctity of the old wood do not seem to be destroyed or profaned. It +overshadows these poor people, and assimilates them somehow or other to +the character of its natural inhabitants. Their presence did not shock +me any more than if I had merely discovered a squirrel's nest in a tree. +To be sure, it is a torment to see the great, high, ugly embankment of +the railroad, which is here thrusting itself into the lake, or along its +margin, in close vicinity to this picturesque little hamlet. I have +seldom seen anything more beautiful than the cove on the border of which +the huts are situated; and the more I looked, the lovelier it grew. The +trees overshadowed it deeply; but on one side there was some brilliant +shrubbery which seemed to light up the whole picture with the effect of a +sweet and melancholy smile. I felt as if spirits were there,--or as if +these shrubs had a spiritual life. In short, the impression was +indefinable; and, after gazing and musing a good while, I retraced my +steps through the Irish hamlet, and plodded on along a wood-path. + +According to my invariable custom, I mistook my way, and, emerging upon +the road, I turned my back instead of my face towards Concord, and walked +on very diligently till a guide-board informed me of my mistake. I then +turned about, and was shortly overtaken by an old yeoman in a chaise, who +kindly offered me a drive, and soon set me down in the village. + + + +[EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS.] + + +Salem, April 14th, 1844.--. . . . I went to George Hillard's office, and +he spoke with immitigable resolution of the necessity of my going to dine +with Longfellow before returning to Concord; but I have an almost +miraculous power of escaping from necessities of this kind. Destiny +itself has often been worsted in the attempt to get me out to dinner. +Possibly, however, I may go. Afterwards I called on Colonel Hall, who +held me long in talk about politics and other sweetmeats. Then I +stepped into a book auction, not to buy, but merely to observe, and, +after a few moments, who should come in, with a smile as sweet as sugar +(though savoring rather of molasses), but, to my horror and petrifaction, +---- ------! I anticipated a great deal of bore and botheration; but, +through Heaven's mercy, he merely spoke a few words, and left me. This +is so unlike his deportment in times past, that I suspect "The Celestial +Railroad" must have given him a pique; and, if so, I shall feel as if +Providence had sufficiently rewarded me for that pious labor. + +In the course of the forenoon I encountered Mr. Howes in the street. He +looked most exceedingly depressed, and, pressing my hand with peculiar +emphasis, said that he was in great affliction, having just heard of his +son George's death in Cuba. He seemed encompassed and overwhelmed by +this misfortune, and walks the street as in a heavy cloud of his own +grief, forth from which he extended his hand to meet my grasp. I +expressed my sympathy, which I told him I was now the more capable of +feeling in a father's suffering, as being myself the father of a little +girl,--and, indeed, the being a parent does give one the freedom of a +wider range of sorrow as well as of happiness. He again pressed my hand, +and left me. . . . + +When I got to Salem, there was great joy, as you may suppose. . . . +Mother hinted an apprehension that poor baby would be spoilt, whereupon I +irreverently observed that, having spoiled her own three children, it was +natural for her to suppose that all other parents would do the same; when +she averred that it was impossible to spoil such children as E---- and I, +because she had never been able to do anything with us. . . . I could +hardly convince them that Una had begun to smile so soon. It surprised +my mother, though her own children appear to have been bright specimens +of babyhood. + +E---- could walk and talk at nine months old. I do not understand that I +was quite such a miracle of precocity, but should think it not +impossible, inasmuch as precocious boys are said to make stupid men. + + +May 27th, 1844.--. . . . My cook fills his office admirably. He prepared +what I must acknowledge to be the best dish of fried fish and potatoes +for dinner to-day that I ever tasted in this house. I scarcely +recognized the fish of our own river. I make him get all the dinners, +while I confine myself to the much lighter task of breakfast and tea. He +also takes his turn in washing the dishes. + +We had a very pleasant dinner at Longfellow's, and I liked Mrs. +Longfellow very much. The dinner was late and we sat long; so that +C---- and I did not get to Concord till half past nine o'clock, and truly +the old Manse seemed somewhat dark and desolate. The next morning George +Prescott came with Una's Lion, who greeted me very affectionately, but +whined and moaned as if he missed somebody who should have been here. I +am not quite so strict as I should be in keeping him out of the house; +but I commiserate him and myself, for are we not both of us bereaved? +C----, whom I can no more keep from smoking than I could the kitchen +chimney, has just come into the study with a cigar, which might perfume +this letter and make you think it came from my own enormity, so I may as +well stop here. + + +May 29th.--C---- is leaving me, to my unspeakable relief; for he has had +a bad cold, which caused him to be much more troublesome and less amusing +than might otherwise have been the case. + + +May 31st.--. . . . I get along admirably, and am at this moment +superintending the corned beef, which has been on the fire, as it appears +to me, ever since the beginning of time, and shows no symptom of being +done before the crack of doom. Mrs. Hale says it must boil till it +becomes tender; and so it shall, if I can find wood to keep the fire +a-going. + +Meantime, I keep my station in the dining-room, and read or write as +composedly as in my own study. Just now, there came a very important rap +at the front door, and I threw down a smoked herring which I had begun to +eat, as there is no hope of the corned beef to-day, and went to admit the +visitor. Who should it be but Ben B------, with a very peculiar and +mysterious grin upon his face! He put into my hand a missive directed to +"Mr. and Mrs. Hawthorne." It contained a little bit of card, signifying +that Dr. L. F------ and Miss C. B------ receive their friends Thursday +eve, June 6. I am afraid I shall be too busy washing my dishes to pay +many visits. The washing of dishes does seem to me the most absurd and +unsatisfactory business that I ever undertook. If, when once washed, +they would remain clean for ever and ever (which they ought in all reason +to do, considering how much trouble it is), there would be less occasion +to grumble; but no sooner is it done, than it requires to be done again. +On the whole, I have come to the resolution not to use more than one dish +at each meal. However, I moralize deeply on this and other matters, and +have discovered that all the trouble and affliction in the world come +from the necessity of cleansing away our earthly stains. + +I ate the last morsel of bread yesterday, and congratulate myself on +being now reduced to the fag-end of necessity. Nothing worse can happen, +according to ordinary modes of thinking, than to want bread; but, like +most afflictions, it is more in prospect than reality. I found one +cracker in the tureen, and exulted over it as if it had been so much +gold. However, I have sent a petition to Mrs. P------ stating my +destitute condition, and imploring her succor; and, till it arrive, I +shall keep myself alive on herrings and apples, together with part of a +pint of milk, which I share with Leo. He is my great trouble now, though +an excellent companion too. But it is not easy to find food for him, +unless I give him what is fit for Christians,--though, for that matter, +he appears to be as good a Christian as most laymen, or even as some of +the clergy. I fried some pouts and eels, yesterday, on purpose for him, +for he does not like raw fish. They were very good, but I should hardly +have taken the trouble on my own account. + +George P------ has just come to say that Mrs. P------ has no bread at +present, and is gone away this afternoon, but that she will send me some +to-morrow. I mean to have a regular supply from the same source. . . . +You cannot imagine how much the presence of Leo relieves the feeling of +perfect loneliness. He insists upon being in the room with me all the +time, except at night, when he sleeps in the shed, and I do not find +myself severe enough to drive him out. He accompanies me likewise in all +my walks to the village and elsewhere; and, in short, keeps at my heels +all the time, except when I go down cellar. Then he stands at the head +of the stairs and howls, as if he never expected to see me again. He is +evidently impressed with the present solitude of our old abbey, both on +his own account and mine, and feels that he may assume a greater degree +of intimacy than would be otherwise allowable. He will be easily brought +within the old regulations after your return. + +P. S. 3 o'clock.--The beef is done!!! + + +Concord. The old Manse. June 2d.--. . . . Everything goes on well with +me. At the time of writing my last letter, I was without bread. Well, +just at supper-time came Mrs. B------ with a large covered dish, which +proved to contain a quantity of specially good flapjacks, piping hot, +prepared, I suppose, by the fair hands of Miss Martha or Miss Abby, for +Mrs. P------ was not at home. They served me both for supper and +breakfast; and I thanked Providence and the young ladies, and compared +myself to the prophet fed by ravens,--though the simile does rather more +than justice to myself, and not enough to the generous donors of the +flapjacks. The next morning, Mrs. P------ herself brought two big loaves +of bread, which will last me a week, unless I have some guests to provide +for. I have likewise found a hoard of crackers in one of the covered +dishes; so that the old castle is sufficiently provisioned to stand a +long siege. The corned beef is exquisitely done, and as tender as a +young lady's heart, all owing to my skilful cookery; for I consulted Mrs. +Hale at every step, and precisely followed her directions. To say the +truth, I look upon it as such a masterpiece in its way, that it seems +irreverential to eat it. Things on which so much thought and labor are +bestowed should surely be immortal. . . . Leo and I attended divine +services this morning in a temple not made with hands. We went to the +farthest extremity of Peter's path, and there lay together under an oak, +on the verge of the broad meadow. + + +Concord, June 6th.--. . . . Mr. F------ arrived yesterday, and appeared +to be in most excellent health, and as happy as the sunshine. About the +first thing he did was to wash the dishes; and he is really indefatigable +in the kitchen, so that I am quite a gentleman of leisure. Previous to +his arrival, I had kindled no fire for four entire days, and had lived +all that time on the corned beef, except one day, when Ellery and I went +down the river on a fishing excursion. Yesterday, we boiled some lamb, +which we shall have cold for dinner to-day. This morning, Mr. F------ +fried a sumptuous dish of eels for breakfast. Mrs. P------ continues to +be the instrument of Providence, and yesterday sent us a very nice plum. +pudding, + +I have told Mr. F------ that I shall be engaged in the forenoons, and he +is to manage his own occupations and amusements during that time. . . . + +Leo, I regret to say, has fallen under suspicion of a very great crime,-- +nothing less than murder,--a fowl crime it may well be called, for it is +the slaughter of one of Mr. Hayward's hens. He has been seen to chase +the hens, several times, and the other day one of them was found dead. +Possibly he may be innocent, and, as there is nothing but circumstantial +evidence, it must be left with his own conscience. + +Meantime, Mr. Hayward, or somebody else, seems to have given him such a +whipping that he is absolutely stiff, and walks about like a rheumatic +old gentleman. I am afraid, too, that he is an incorrigible thief. +Ellery says he has seen him coming up the avenue with a calf's whole head +in his mouth. How he came by it is best known to Leo himself. If he +were a dog of fair character, it would be no more than charity to +conclude that he had either bought it, or had it given to him; but with +the other charges against him, it inclines me to great distrust of his +moral principles. Be that as it may, he managed his stock of provisions +very thriftily,--burying it in the earth, and eating a portion of it +whenever he felt an appetite. If he insists upon living by highway +robbery, it would be well to make him share his booty with us. . . . + + +June 10th.--. . . . Mr. F------ is in perfect health, and absolutely in +the seventh heaven, and he talks and talks and talks and talks; and I +listen and listen and listen with a patience for which, in spite of all +my sins, I firmly expect to be admitted to the mansions of the blessed. +And there is really a contentment in being able to make this poor, +world-worn, hopeless, half-crazy man so entirely comfortable as he seems +to be here. He is an admirable cook. We had some roast veal and a baked +rice-pudding on Sunday, really a fine dinner, and cooked in better style +than Mary can equal; and George Curtis came to dine with us. Like all +male cooks, he is rather expensive, and has a tendency to the consumption +of eggs in his various concoctions. . . . I have had my dreams of +splendor; but never expected to arrive at the dignity of keeping a +man-cook. At first we had three meals a day, but now only two. . . . + + * * * * * * + +We dined at Mr. Emerson's the other day, in company with Mr. Hedge. Mr. +Bradford has been to see us two or three times. . . . He looks thinner +than ever. + + + +[PASSAGES FROM NOTE-BOOKS.] + + +May 5th, 1850.--I left Portsmouth last Wednesday, at the quarter past +twelve, by the Concord Railroad, which at New Market unites with the +Boston and Maine Railroad about ten miles from Portsmouth. The station +at New Market is a small wooden building, with one railroad passing on +one side, and another on another, and the two crossing each other at +right angles. At a little distance stands a black, large, old, wooden +church, with a square tower, and broken windows, and a great rift through +the middle of the roof, all in a stage of dismal ruin and decay. A +farm-house of the old style, with a long sloping roof, and as black as +the church, stands on the opposite side of the road, with its barns; and +these are all the buildings in sight of the railroad station. On the +Concord rail, in the train of cars, with the locomotive puffing, and +blowing off its steam, and making a great bluster in that lonely place, +while along the other railroad stretches the desolate track, with the +withered weeds growing up betwixt the two lines of iron, all so desolate. +And anon you hear a low thunder running along these iron rails; it grows +louder; an object is seen afar off; it approaches rapidly, and comes down +upon you like fate, swift and inevitable. In a moment, it dashes along +in front of the station-house, and comes to a pause, the locomotive +hissing and fuming in its eagerness to go on. How much life has come at +once into this lonely place! Four or five long cars, each, perhaps, with +fifty people in it, reading newspapers, reading pamphlet novels, +chattering, sleeping; all this vision of passing life! A moment passes, +while the luggage-men are putting on the trunks and packages; then the +bell strikes a few times, and away goes the train again, quickly out of +sight of those who remain behind, while a solitude of hours again broods +over the station-house, which, for an instant, has thus been put in +communication with far-off cities, and then remains by itself, with the +old, black, ruinous church, and the black old farm-house, both built +years and years ago, before railroads were ever dreamed of. Meantime, +the passenger, stepping from the solitary station into the train, finds +himself in the midst of a new world all in a moment. He rushes out of +the solitude into a village; thence, through woods and hills, into a +large inland town; beside the Merrimack, which has overflowed its banks, +and eddies along, turbid as a vast mud-puddle, sometimes almost laving +the doorstep of a house, and with trees standing in the flood half-way up +their trunks. Boys, with newspapers to sell, or apples and lozenges; +many passengers departing and entering, at each new station; the more +permanent passenger, with his check or ticket stuck in his hat-band, +where the conductor may see it. A party of girls, playing at ball with a +young man. Altogether it is a scene of stirring life, with which a +person who had been waiting long for the train to come might find it +difficult at once to amalgamate himself. + +It is a sombre, brooding day, and begins to rain as the cars pass onward. +In a little more than two hours we find ourselves in Boston surrounded by +eager hackmen. + +Yesterday I went to the Athenaeum, and, being received with great +courtesy by Mr. Folsom, was shown all over the edifice from the very +bottom to the very top, whence I looked out over Boston. It is an +admirable point of view; but, it being an overcast and misty day, I did +not get the full advantage of it. The library is in a noble hall, and +looks splendidly with its vista of alcoves. The most remarkable sight, +however, was Mr. Hildreth, writing his history of the United States. He +sits at a table, at the entrance of one of the alcoves, with his books +and papers before him, as quiet and absorbed as he would be in the +loneliest study; now consulting an authority; now penning a sentence or a +paragraph, without seeming conscious of anything but his subject. It is +very curious thus to have a glimpse of a book in process of creation +under one's eye. I know not how many hours he sits there; but while I +saw him he was a pattern of diligence and unwandering thought. He had +taken himself out of the age, and put himself, I suppose, into that about +which he was writing. Being deaf, he finds it much the easier to +abstract himself. Nevertheless, it is a miracle. He is a thin, +middle-aged man, in black, with an intelligent face, rather sensible than +scholarlike. + +Mr. Folsom accompanied me to call upon Mr. Ticknor, the historian of +Spanish literature. He has a fine house, at the corner of Park and +Beacon Streets, perhaps the very best position in Boston. A marble hall, +a wide and easy staircase, a respectable old man-servant evidently long +at home in the mansion, to admit us. We entered the library, Mr. Folsom +considerably in advance, as being familiar with the house; and I heard +Mr. Ticknor greet him in friendly tones, their scholar-like and +bibliographical pursuits, I suppose, bringing them into frequent +conjunction. Then I was introduced, and received with great distinction, +but yet without any ostentatious flourish of courtesy. Mr. Ticknor has a +great head, and his hair is gray or grayish. You recognize in him at +once the man who knows the world, the scholar, too, which probably is his +more distinctive character, though a little more under the surface. He +was in his slippers; a volume of his book was open on a table, and +apparently he had been engaged in revising or annotating it. His library +is a stately and beautiful room for a private dwelling, and itself looks +large and rich. The fireplace has a white marble frame about it, +sculptured with figures and reliefs. Over it hung a portrait of Sir +Walter Scott, a copy, I think, of the one that represents him in Melrose +Abbey. + +Mr. Ticknor was most kind in his alacrity to solve the point on which Mr. +Folsom, in my behalf, had consulted him (as to whether there had been any +English translation of the Tales of Cervantes); and most liberal in his +offers of books from his library. Certainly, he is a fine example of a +generous-principled scholar, anxious to assist the human intellect in its +efforts and researches. Methinks he must have spent a happy life (as +happiness goes among mortals), writing his great three-volumed book for +twenty years; writing it, not for bread, nor with any uneasy desire of +fame, but only with a purpose to achieve something true and enduring. He +is, I apprehend, a man of great cultivation and refinement, and with +quite substance enough to be polished and refined, without being worn too +thin in the process,--a man of society. He related a singular story of +an attempt of his to become acquainted with me years ago, when he mistook +my kinsman Eben for me. + +At half past four, I went to Mr. Thompson's, the artist who has requested +to paint my picture. This was the second sitting. The portrait looked +dimly out from the canvas, as from a cloud, with something that I could +recognize as my outline, but no strong resemblance as yet. I have had +three portraits taken before this,--an oil picture, a miniature, and a +crayon sketch,--neither of them satisfactory to those most familiar with +my physiognomy. In fact, there is no such thing as a true portrait; they +are all delusions, and I never saw any two alike, nor hardly any two that +I would recognize, merely by the portraits themselves, as being of the +same man. A bust has more reality. This artist is a man of thought, and +with no mean idea of his art; a Swedenborgian, or, as he prefers to call +it, a member of the New Church; and I have generally found something +marked in men who adopt that faith. He had painted a good picture of +Bryant. He seems to me to possess truth in himself, and to aim at it in +his artistic endeavors. + + +May 6th.--This morning it is an easterly rain (south-easterly, I should +say just now at twelve o'clock), and I went at nine, by appointment, to +sit for my picture. The artist painted awhile; but soon found that he +had not so much light as was desirable, and complained that his tints +were as muddy as the weather. Further sitting was therefore postponed +till to-morrow at eleven. It will be a good picture; but I see no +assurance, as yet, of the likeness. An artist's apartment is always very +interesting to me, with its pictures, finished and unfinished; its little +fancies in the pictorial way,--as here two sketches of children among +flowers and foliage, representing Spring and Summer, Winter and Autumn +being yet to come out of the artist's mild; the portraits of his wife and +children; here a clergyman, there a poet; here a woman with the stamp of +reality upon her, there a feminine conception which we feel not to have +existed. There was an infant Christ, or rather a child Christ, not +unbeautiful, but scarcely divine. I love the odor of paint in an +artist's room; his palette and all his other tools have a mysterious +charm for me. The pursuit has always interested my imagination more than +any other, and I remember before having my first portrait taken, there +was a great bewitchery in the idea, as if it were a magic process. Even +now, it is not without interest to me. + +I left Mr. Thompson before ten, and took my way through the sloppy +streets to the Athenaeum, where I looked over the newspapers and +periodicals, and found two of my old stories (Peter Goldthwaite and the +Shaker Bridal) published as original in the last London Metropolitan! +The English are much more unscrupulous and dishonest pirates than +ourselves. However, if they are poor enough to perk themselves in such +false feathers as these, Heaven help them! I glanced over the stories, +and they seemed painfully cold and dull. It is the more singular that +these should be so published, inasmuch as the whole book was republished +in London, only a few months ago. Mr. Fields tells me that two +publishers in London had advertised the Scarlet Letter as in press, each +book at a shilling. + + * * * * * * + +Certainly life is made much more tolerable, and man respects himself far +more, when he takes his meals with a certain degree of order and state. +There should be a sacred law in these matters; and, as consecrating the +whole business, the preliminary prayer is a good and real ordinance. The +advance of man from a savage and animal state may be as well measured by +his mode and morality of dining, as by any other circumstance. At Mr. +Fields's, soon after entering the house, I heard the brisk and cheerful +notes of a canary-bird, singing with great vivacity, and making its voice +echo through the large rooms. It was very pleasant, at the close of the +rainy, east-windy day, and seemed to fling sunshine through the dwelling. + + +May 7th.--I did not go out yesterday afternoon, but after tea I went to +Parker's. The drinking and smoking shop is no bad place to see one kind +of life. The front apartment is for drinking. The door opens into Court +Square, and is denoted, usually, by some choice specimens of dainties +exhibited in the windows, or hanging beside the door-post; as, for +instance, a pair of canvas-back ducks, distinguishable by their +delicately mottled feathers; an admirable cut of raw beefsteak; a ham, +ready boiled, and with curious figures traced in spices on its outward +fat; a half, or perchance the whole, of a large salmon, when in season; a +bunch of partridges, etc., etc. A screen stands directly before the +door, so as to conceal the interior from an outside barbarian. At the +counter stand, at almost all hours,--certainly at all hours when I have +chanced to observe,--tipplers, either taking a solitary glass, or +treating all round, veteran topers, flashy young men, visitors from the +country, the various petty officers connected with the law, whom the +vicinity of the Court-House brings hither. Chiefly, they drink plain +liquors, gin, brandy, or whiskey, sometimes a Tom and Jerry, a gin +cocktail (which the bar-tender makes artistically, tossing it in a large +parabola from one tumbler to another, until fit for drinking), a +brandy-smash, and numerous other concoctions. All this toping goes +forward with little or no apparent exhilaration of spirits; nor does this +seem to be the object sought,--it being rather, I imagine, to create a +titillation of the coats of the stomach and a general sense of +invigoration, without affecting the brain. Very seldom does a man grow +wild and unruly. + +The inner room is hung round with pictures and engravings of various +kinds,--a painting of a premium ox, a lithograph of a Turk and of a +Turkish lady, . . . . and various showily engraved tailors' +advertisements, and other shop-bills; among them all, a small painting of +a drunken toper, sleeping on a bench beside the grog-shop,--a ragged, +half-hatless, bloated, red-nosed, jolly, miserable-looking devil, very +well done, and strangely suitable to the room in which it hangs. Round +the walls are placed some half a dozen marble-topped tables, and a +centre-table in the midst; most of them strewn with theatrical and other +show-bills; and the large theatre-bills, with their type of gigantic +solidity and blackness, hung against the walls. + +Last evening, when I entered, there was one guest somewhat overcome with +liquor, and slumbering with his chair tipped against one of the marble +tables. In the course of a quarter of an hour, he roused himself (a +plain, middle-aged man), and went out with rather an unsteady step, and a +hot, red face. One or two others were smoking, and looking over the +papers, or glancing at a play-bill. From the centre of the ceiling +descended a branch with two gas-burners, which sufficiently illuminated +every corner of the room. Nothing is so remarkable in these bar-rooms +and drinking-places, as the perfect order that prevails: if a man gets +drunk, it is no otherwise perceptible than by his going to sleep, or his +inability to walk. + +Pacing the sidewalk in front of this grog-shop of Parker's (or sometimes, +on cold and rainy days, taking his station inside), there is generally to +be observed an elderly ragamuffin, in a dingy and battered hat, an old +surtout, and a more than shabby general aspect; a thin face and red nose, +a patch over one eye, and the other half drowned in moisture. He leans +in a slightly stooping posture on a stick, forlorn and silent, addressing +nobody, but fixing his one moist eye on you with a certain intentness. +he is a man who has been in decent circumstances at some former period of +his life, but, falling into decay (perhaps by dint of too frequent visits +at Parker's bar), he now haunts about the place, as a ghost haunts the +spot where he was murdered, "to collect his rents," as Parker says,--that +is, to catch an occasional ninepence from some charitable acquaintances, +or a glass of liquor at the bar. The word "ragamuffin," which I have +used above, does not accurately express the man, because there is a sort +of shadow or delusion of respectability about him, and a sobriety too, +and a kind of decency in his groggy and red-nosed destitution. + +Underground, beneath the drinking and smoking rooms, is Parker's +eating-hall, extending all the way to Court Street. All sorts of good +eating may be had there, and a gourmand may feast at what expense he +will. + +I take an interest in all the nooks and crannies and every development of +cities; so here I try to make a description of the view from the back +windows of a house in the centre of Boston, at which I now glance in the +intervals of writing. The view is bounded, at perhaps thirty yards' +distance, by a row of opposite brick dwellings, standing, I think, on +Temple Place; houses of the better order, with tokens of genteel families +visible in all the rooms betwixt the basements and the attic windows in +the roof; plate-glass in the rear drawing-rooms, flower-pots in some of +the windows of the upper stories. Occasionally, a lady's figure, either +seated or appearing with a flitting grace, or dimly manifest farther +within the obscurity of the room. A balcony, with a wrought-iron fence +running along under the row of drawing-room windows, above the basement. +In the space betwixt the opposite row of dwellings and that in which I am +situated are the low out-houses of the above-described houses, with flat +roofs; or solid brick walls, with walks on them, and high railings, for +the convenience of the washerwomen in hanging out their clothes. In the +intervals are grass-plots, already green, because so sheltered; and +fruit-trees, now beginning to put forth their leaves, and one of them, a +cherry-tree, almost in full blossom. Birds flutter and sing among these +trees. I should judge it a good site for the growth of delicate fruit; +for, quite enclosed on all sides by houses, the blighting winds cannot +molest the trees. They have sunshine on them a good part of the day, +though the shadow must come early, and I suppose there is a rich soil +about the roots. I see grapevines clambering against one wall, and also +peeping over another, where the main body of the vine is invisible to me. +In another place, a frame is erected for a grapevine, and probably it +will produce as rich clusters as the vines of Madeira, here in the heart +of the city, in this little spot of fructifying earth, while the thunder +of wheels rolls about it on every side. The trees are not all +fruit-trees. One pretty well-grown buttonwood-tree aspires upward above +the roofs of the houses. In the full verdure of summer, there will be +quite a mass or curtain of foliage between the hither and the thither row +of houses. + + +Afternoon.--At eleven, I went to give Mr. Thompson a sitting for my +picture. I like the painter. He seems to reverence his art and to aim +at truth in it, as I said before; a man of gentle disposition too, and +simplicity of life and character. I seated myself in the pictorial +chair, with the only light in the room descending upon me from a high +opening, almost at the ceiling, the rest of the sole window being +shuttered. He began to work, and we talked in an idle and desultory +way,--neither of us feeling very conversable,--which he attributed to the +atmosphere, it being a bright, west-windy, bracing day. We talked about +the pictures of Christ, and how inadequate and untrue they are. He said +he thought artists should attempt only to paint child-Christs, human +powers being inadequate to the task of painting such purity and holiness +in a manly development. Then he said that an idea of a picture had +occurred to him that morning, while reading a chapter in the New +Testament,--how "they parted his garments among them, and for his vesture +did cast lots." His picture was to represent the soldier to whom the +garment without a seam had fallen, after taking it home and examining it, +and becoming impressed with a sense of the former wearer's holiness. I +do not quite see how he would make such a picture tell its own story;-- +but I find the idea suggestive to my own mind, and I think I could make +something of it. We talked of physiognomy and impressions of character, +--first impressions,--and how apt they are to come aright in the face of +the closest subsequent observation. + +There were several visitors in the course of the sitting, one a +gentleman, a connection from the country, with whom the artist talked +about family matters and personal affairs,--observing on the poorness of +his own business, and that he had thoughts of returning to New York. I +wish he would meet with better success. Two or three ladies also looked +in. Meanwhile Mr. Thompson had been painting with more and more +eagerness, casting quick, keen glances at me, and then making hasty +touches on the picture, as if to secure with his brush what he had caught +with his eye. He observed that he was just getting interested in the +work, and I could recognize the feeling that was in him as akin to what I +have experienced myself in the glow of composition. Nevertheless, he +seemed able to talk about foreign matters, through it all. He continued +to paint in this rapid way, up to the moment of closing the sitting; when +he took the canvas from the easel, without giving me time to mark what +progress he had made, as he did the last time. + +The artist is middle-sized, thin, a little stooping, with a quick, +nervous movement. He has black hair, not thick, a beard under his chin, +a small head, but well-developed forehead, black eyebrows, eyes keen, but +kindly, and a dark face, not indicating robust health, but agreeable in +its expression. His voice is gentle and sweet, and such as comes out +from amidst refined feelings. He dresses very simply and unpictorially +in a gray frock or sack, and does not seem to think of making a picture +of himself in his own person. + +At dinner to-day there was a young Frenchman, whom ------ befriended a +year or so ago, when he had not another friend in America, and obtained +employment for him in a large dry-goods establishment. He is a young man +of eighteen or thereabouts, with smooth black hair, neatly dressed; his +face showing a good disposition, but with nothing of intellect or +character. It is funny to think of this poor little Frenchman, a +Parisian too, eating our most un-French victuals,--our beefsteaks, and +roasts, and various homely puddings and hams, and all things most +incongruent to his hereditary stomach; but nevertheless he eats most +cheerfully and uncomplainingly. He has not a large measure of French +vivacity, never rattles, never dances, nor breaks into ebullitions of +mirth and song; on the contrary, I have never known a youth of his age +more orderly and decorous. He is kind-hearted and grateful, and evinces +his gratitude to the mother of the family and to his benefactress by +occasional presents, not trifling when measured by his small emolument of +five dollars per week. Just at this time he is confined to his room by +indisposition, caused, it is suspected, by a spree on Sunday last. Our +gross Saxon orgies would soon be the ruin of his French constitution. + +A thought to-day. Great men need to be lifted upon the shoulders of the +whole world, in order to conceive their great ideas or perform their +great deeds. That is, there must be an atmosphere of greatness round +about them. A hero cannot be a hero unless in an heroic world. + + +May 8th.--I went last evening to the National Theatre to see a pantomime. +It was Jack the Giant-Killer, and somewhat heavy and tedious. The +audience was more noteworthy than the play. The theatre itself is for +the middling and lower classes, and I had not taken my seat in the most +aristocratic part of the house; so that I found myself surrounded chiefly +by young sailors, Hanover Street shopmen, mechanics, and other people of +that class. It is wonderful! the difference that exists in the personal +aspect and dress, and no less in the manners, of people in this quarter +of the city, as compared with other parts of it. + +One would think that Oak Hall should give a common garb and air to the +great mass of the Boston population; but it seems not to be so; and +perhaps what is most singular is, that the natural make of the men has a +conformity and suitableness to the dress. Glazed caps and Palo Alto hats +were much worn. It is a pity that this picturesque and comparatively +graceful hat should not have been generally adopted, instead of falling +to the exclusive use of a rowdy class. + +In the next box to me were two young women, with an infant, but to which +of them appertaining I could not at first discover. One was a large, +plump girl, with a heavy face, a snub nose, coarse-looking, but +good-natured, and with no traits of evil,--save, indeed, that she had on +the vilest gown of dirty white cotton, so pervadingly dingy that it was +white no longer, as it seemed to me. The sleeves were short, and ragged +at the borders, and her shawl, which she took off on account of the heat, +was old and faded,--the shabbiest and dirtiest dress that I ever saw a +woman wear. Yet she was plump, and looked comfortable in body and mind. +I imagine that she must have had a better dress at home, but had come to +the theatre extemporaneously, and, not going to the dress circle, +considered her ordinary gown good enough for the occasion. The other +girl seemed as young or younger than herself. She was small, with a +particularly intelligent and pleasant face, not handsome, perhaps, but as +good or better than if it were. It was mobile with whatever sentiment +chanced to be in her mind, as quick and vivacious a face in its movements +as I have ever seen; cheerful, too, and indicative of a sunny, though I +should think it might be a hasty, temper. She was dressed in a dark gown +(chintz, I suppose the women call it), a good, homely dress, proper +enough for the fireside, but a strange one to appear in at a theatre. +Both these girls appeared to enjoy themselves very much,--the large and +heavy one in her own duller mode; the smaller manifesting her interest by +gestures, pointing at the stage, and with so vivid a talk of countenance +that it was precisely as if she had spoken. She was not a brunette, and +this made the vivacity of her expression the more agreeable. Her +companion, on the other hand, was so dark, that I rather suspected her to +have a tinge of African blood. + +There were two men who seemed to have some connection with these girls,-- +one an elderly, gray-headed personage, well-stricken in liquor, talking +loudly and foolishly, but good-humoredly; the other a young man, sober, +and doing his best to keep his elder friend quiet. The girls seemed to +give themselves no uneasiness about the matter.--Both the men wore Palo +Alto hats. I could not make out whether either of the men were the +father of the child, though I was inclined to set it down as a family +party. + +As the play went on, the house became crowded and oppressively warm, and +the poor little baby grew dark red, or purple almost, with the +uncomfortable heat in its small body. It must have been accustomed to +discomfort, and have concluded it to be the condition of mortal life, +else it never would have remained so quiet. Perhaps it had been quieted +with a sleeping-potion. The two young women were not negligent of it; +but passed it to and fro between them, each willingly putting herself to +inconvenience for the sake of tending it. But I really feared it might +die in some kind of a fit, so hot was the theatre, so purple with heat, +yet strangely quiet, was the child. I was glad to hear it cry at last; +but it did not cry with any great rage and vigor, as it should, but in a +stupid kind of way. Hereupon the smaller of the two girls, after a +little inefficacious dandling, at once settled the question of maternity +by nursing her baby. Children must be hard to kill, however injudicious +the treatment. The two girls and their cavaliers remained till nearly +the close of the play. I should like well to know who they are,--of what +condition in life, and whether reputable as members of the class to which +they belong. My own judgment is that they are so. Throughout the +evening, drunken young sailors kept stumbling into and out of the boxes, +calling to one another from different parts of the house, shouting to the +performers, and singing the burden of songs. It was a scene of life in +the rough. + + +May 14th.--A stable opposite the house,--an old wooden construction, low, +in three distinct parts; the centre being the stable proper, where the +horses are kept, and with a chamber over it for the hay. On one side is +the department for chaises and carriages; on the other, the little office +where the books are kept. In the interior region of the stable +everything is dim and undefined,--half-traceable outlines of stalls, +sometimes the shadowy aspect of a horse. Generally a groom is dressing a +horse at the stable door, with a care and accuracy that leave no part of +the animal unvisited by the currycomb and brush; the horse, meanwhile, +evidently enjoying it, but sometimes, when the more sensitive parts are +touched, giving a half-playful kick with his hind legs, and a little +neigh. If the men bestowed half as much care on their own personal +cleanliness, they would be all the better and healthier men therefor. +They appear to be busy men, these stablers, yet have a lounging way with +them, as if indolence were somehow diffused through their natures. The +apparent head of the establishment is a sensible, thoughtful-looking, +large-featured, and homely man, past the middle age, clad rather shabbily +in gray, stooping somewhat, and without any smartness about him. There +is a groom, who seems to be a very comfortable kind of personage,--a man +of forty-five or thereabouts (R. W. Emerson says he was one of his +schoolmates), but not looking so old; corpulent, not to say fat, with a +white frock, which his goodly bulk almost fills, enveloping him from neck +nearly to ankles. On his head he wears a cloth cap of a jockey shape; +his pantaloons are turned up an inch or two at bottom, and he wears +brogans on his feet. His hair, as may be seen when he takes off his cap +to wipe his brow, is black and in perfect preservation, with not exactly +a curl, yet a vivacious and elastic kind of twist in it. His face is +fresh-colored, comfortable, sufficiently vivid in expression, not at all +dimmed by his fleshly exuberance, because the man possesses vigor enough +to carry it off. His bodily health seems perfect; so, indeed, does his +moral and intellectual. He is very active and assiduous in his duties, +currycombing and rubbing down the horses with alacrity and skill; and, +when not otherwise occupied, you may see him talking jovially with chance +acquaintances, or observing what is going forward in the street. If a +female acquaintance happens to pass, he touches his jockey cap, and bows, +accomplishing this courtesy with a certain smartness that proves him a +man of the world. Whether it be his greater readiness to talk, or the +wisdom of what he says, he seems usually to be the centre talker of the +group. It is very pleasant to see such an image of earthly comfort as +this. A fat man who feels his flesh as a disease and encumbrance, and on +whom it presses so as to make him melancholy with dread of apoplexy, and +who moves heavily under the burden of himself,--such a man is a doleful +and disagreeable object. But if he have vivacity enough to pervade all +his earthiness, and bodily force enough to move lightly under it, and if +it be not too unmeasured to have a trimness and briskness in it, then it +is good and wholesome to look at him. + +In the background of the house, a cat, occasionally stealing along on the +roofs of the low out-houses; descending a flight of wooden steps into the +brick area; investigating the shed, and entering all dark and secret +places; cautious, circumspect, as if in search of something; noiseless, +attentive to every noise. Moss grows on spots of the roof; there are +little boxes of earth here and there, with plants in them. The +grass-plots appertaining to each of the houses whose rears are opposite +ours (standing in Temple Place) are perhaps ten or twelve feet broad, and +three times as long. Here and there is a large, painted garden-pot, half +buried in earth. Besides the large trees in blossom, there are little +ones, probably of last year's setting out. Early in the day chambermaids +are seen hanging the bedclothes out of the upper windows; at the window +of the basement of the same house, I see a woman ironing. Were I a +solitary prisoner, I should not doubt to find occupation of deep interest +for my whole day in watching only one of the houses. One house seems to +be quite shut up; all the blinds in the three windows of each of the four +stories being closed, although in the roof-windows of the attic story the +curtains are hung carelessly upward, instead of being drawn. I thick the +house is empty, perhaps for the summer. The visible side of the whole +row of houses is now in the shade,--they looking towards, I should say, +the southwest. Later in the day, they are wholly covered with sunshine, +and continue so through the afternoon; and at evening the sunshine slowly +withdraws upward, gleams aslant upon the windows, perches on the +chimneys, and so disappears. The upper part of the spire and the +weathercock of the Park Street Church appear over one of the houses, +looking as if it were close behind. It shows the wind to be cast now. +At one of the windows of the third story sits a woman in a colored dress, +diligently sewing on something white. She sews, not like a lady, but +with an occupational air. Her dress, I observe, on closer observation, +is a kind of loose morning sack, with, I think, a silky gloss on it; and +she seems to have a silver comb in her hair,--no, this latter item is a +mistake. Sheltered as the space is between the two rows of houses, a +puff of the east-wind finds its way in, and shakes off some of the +withering blossoms from the cherry-trees. + +Quiet as the prospect is, there is a continual and near thunder of wheels +proceeding from Washington Street. In a building not far off, there is a +hall for exhibitions; and sometimes, in the evenings, loud music is heard +from it; or, if a diorama be shown (that of Bunker Hill, for instance, or +the burning of Moscow), an immense racket of imitative cannon and +musketry. + + +May, 16th.--It has been an easterly rain yesterday and to-day, with +occasional lightings up, and then a heavy downfall of the gloom again. + +Scenes out of the rear windows,--the glistening roof of the opposite +houses; the chimneys, now and then choked with their own smoke, which a +blast drives down their throats. The church-spire has a mist about it. +Once this morning a solitary dove came and alighted on the peak of an +attic window, and looked down into the areas, remaining in this position +a considerable time. Now it has taken a flight, and alighted on the roof +of this house, directly over the window at which I sit, so that I can +look up and see its head and beak, and the tips of its claws. The roofs +of the low out-houses are black with moisture; the gutters are full of +water, and there is a little puddle where there is a place for it in the +hollow of a board. On the grass-plot are strewn the fallen blossoms of +the cherry-tree, and over the scene broods a parallelogram of sombre sky. +Thus it will be all day as it was yesterday; and, in the evening, one +window after another will be lighted up in the drawing-rooms. Through +the white curtains may be seen the gleam of an astral-lamp, like a fixed +star. In the basement rooms, the work of the kitchen going forward; in +the upper chambers, here and there a light. + +In a bar-room, a large, oval basin let into the counter, with a brass +tube rising from the centre, out of which gushes continually a miniature +fountain, and descends in a soft, gentle, never-ceasing rain into the +basin, where swim a company of gold-fishes. Some of them gleam brightly +in their golden armor; others have a dull white aspect, going through +some process of transformation. One would think that the atmosphere, +continually filled with tobacco-smoke, might impregnate the water +unpleasantly for the scaly people; but then it is continually flowing +away and being renewed. And what if some toper should be seized with the +freak of emptying his glass of gin or brandy into the basin,--would the +fishes die or merely get jolly? + +I saw, for a wonder, a man pretty drunk at Parker's the other evening,--a +well-dressed man, of not ungentlemanly aspect. He talked loudly and +foolishly, but in good phrases, with a great flow of language, and he was +no otherwise impertinent than in addressing his talk to strangers. +Finally, after sitting a long time staring steadfastly across the room in +silence, he arose, and staggered away as best he might, only showing his +very drunken state when he attempted to walk. + +Old acquaintances,--a gentleman whom I knew ten years ago, brisk, active, +vigorous, with a kind of fire of physical well-being and cheerful spirits +glowing through him. Now, after a course, I presume, of rather free +living, pale, thin, oldish, with a grave and care or pain worn brow,--yet +still lively and cheerful in his accost, though with something invincibly +saddened in his tones. Another, formerly commander of a revenue vessel, +--a man of splendid epaulets and very aristocratic equipment and +demeanor; now out of service and without position, and changed into a +brandy-burnt and rowdyish sort of personage. He seemed as if he might +still be a gentleman if he would; but his manners show a desperate state +of mind by their familiarity, recklessness, the lack of any hedge of +reserve about himself, while still he is evidently a man of the world, +accustomed to good society. He has latterly, I think, been in the +Russian service, and would very probably turn pirate on fair occasion. + + +Lenox, July 14th.--The tops of the chestnut-trees have a whitish +appearance, they being, I suppose, in bloom. Red raspberries are just +through the season. + +Language,--human language,--after all, is but little better than the +croak and cackle of fowls and other utterances of brute nature,-- +sometimes not so adequate. + + +July 16th.--The tops of the chestnut-trees are peculiarly rich, as if a +more luscious sunshine were falling on them than anywhere else. +"Whitish," as above, don't express it. + +The queer gestures and sounds of a hen looking about for a place to +deposit her egg; her self-important gait; the sideway turn of her head +and cock of her eye, as she pries into one and another nook, croaking all +the while,--evidently with the idea that the egg in question is the most +important thing that has been brought to pass since the world began. A +speckled black and white and tufted hen of ours does it to most ludicrous +perfection; and there is something laughably womanish in it too. + + +July 25th.--As I sit in my study, with the windows open, the occasional +incident of the visit of some winged creature,--wasp, hornet, or bee,-- +entering out of the warm sunny atmosphere, soaring round the room in +large sweeps, then buzzing against the glass, as not satisfied with the +place, and desirous of getting out. Finally, the joyous, uprising curve +with which, coming to the open part of the window, it emerges into the +cheerful glow of the outside. + + +August 4th.--Dined at hotel with J. T. Fields and wife. Afternoon, drove +with them to Pittsfield and called on Dr. Holmes. + + +August 5th.--Drove with Fields and his wife to Stockbridge, being thereto +invited by Mr. Field of Stockbridge, in order to ascend Monument +Mountain. Found at Mr. Field's Dr. Holmes and Mr. Duyckinck of New York; +also Mr. Cornelius Matthews and Herman Melville. Ascended the mountain; +that is to say, Mrs. Fields and Miss Jenny Field, Mr. Field and Mr. +Fields, Dr. Holmes, Messrs. Duyckinck, Matthews, Melville, Mr. Henry +Sedgewick, and I, and were caught in a shower. Dined at Mr. Field's. +Afternoon, under guidance of J. T. Headley, the party scrambled through +the ice-glen. + + +August 7th.--Messrs. Duyckink, Matthews, Melville, and Melville, junior, +called in the forenoon. Gave them a couple of bottles of Mr. Mansfield's +champagne, and walked down to the lake with them. At twilight Mr. Edwin +P. Whipple and wife called. + + +August 8th.--Mr. and Mrs. Whipple took tea with us. + + +August 12th.--Seven chickens hatched. J. T. Readley and brother called. +Eight chickens. + + +August 19th.--Monument Mountain, in the early sunshine; its base +enveloped in mist, parts of which are floating in the sky, so that the +great hill looks really as if it were founded on a cloud. Just emerging +from the mist is seen a yellow field of rye, and, above that, forest. + + +August 21st.--Eight more chickens hatched. Ascended a mountain with my +wife; a beautiful, mellow, autumnal sunshine. + + +August 24th.--In the afternoons, nowadays, this valley in which I dwell +seems like a vast basin filled with golden sunshine as with wine. + + +August 31st.--J. R. Lowell called in the evening. + + +September 1st.--Mr. and Mrs. Lowell called in the forenoon, on their way +to Stockbridge or Lebanon to meet Miss Bremer. + + +September 2d.--"When I grow up," quoth J-----, in illustration of the +might to which he means to attain,--"when I grow up, I shall be two men." + + +September 3d.--Foliage of maples begins to change. Julian, after picking +up a handful of autumnal maple-leaves the other day,--"Look, papa, here's +a bunch of fire!" + + +September 7th.--In a wood, a heap or pile of logs and sticks, that had +been cut for firewood, and piled up square, in order to be carted away to +the house when convenience served,--or, rather, to be sledded in +sleighing time. But the moss had accumulated on them, and leaves falling +over them from year to year and decaying, a kind of soil had quite +covered them, although the softened outline of the woodpile was +perceptible in the green mound. It was perhaps fifty years--perhaps +more--since the woodman had cut and piled those logs and sticks, +intending them for his winter fires. But he probably needs no fire now. +There was something strangely interesting in this simple circumstance. +Imagine the long-dead woodman, and his long-dead wife and family, and the +old man who was a little child when the wood was cut, coming back from +their graves, and trying to make a fire with this mossy fuel. + + +September 19th.--Lying by the lake yesterday afternoon, with my eyes +shut, while the waves and sunshine were playing together on the water, +the quick glimmer of the wavelets was perceptible through my closed +eyelids. + + +October 13th.--A windy day, with wind northwest, cool, with a prevalence +of dull gray clouds over the sky, but with brief, quick glimpses of +sunshine. + +The foliage having its autumn hues, Monument Mountain looks like a +headless sphinx, wrapped in a rich Persian shawl. Yesterday, through a +diffused mist, with the sun shining on it, it had the aspect of burnished +copper. The sun-gleams on the hills are peculiarly magnificent just in +these days. + +One of the children, drawing a cow on the blackboard, says, "I'll kick +this leg out a little more,"--a very happy energy of expression, +completely identifying herself with the cow; or perhaps, as the cow's +creator, conscious of full power over its movements. + + +October 14th.--The brilliancy of the foliage has passed its acme; and +indeed it has not been so magnificent this season as in some others, +owing to the gradual approaches of cooler weather, and there having been +slight frosts instead of severe ones. There is still a shaggy richness +on the hillsides. + + +October 16th.--A morning mist, filling up the whole length and breadth of +the valley betwixt my house and Monument Mountain, the summit of the +mountain emerging. The mist reaches almost to my window, so dense as to +conceal everything, except that near its hither boundary a few ruddy or +yellow tree-tops appear, glorified by the early sunshine, as is likewise +the whole mist-cloud. + +There is a glen between this house and the lake, through which winds a +little brook with pools and tiny waterfalls over the great roots of +trees. The glen is deep and narrow, and filled with trees; so that, in +the summer, it is all a dense shadow of obscurity. Now, the foliage of +the trees being almost entirely a golden yellow, instead of being full of +shadow, the glen is absolutely full of sunshine, and its depths are more +brilliant than the open plain or the mountain-tops. The trees are +sunshine, and, many of the golden leaves being freshly fallen, the glen +is strewn with sunshine, amid which winds and gurgles the bright, dark +little brook. + + +December 1st.--I saw a dandelion in bloom near the lake. + + +December 19th.--If the world were crumbled to the finest dust, and +scattered through the universe, there would not be an atom of the dust +for each star. + +"Generosity is the flower of justice." + +The print in blood of a naked foot to be traced through the street of a +town. + +Sketch of a personage with the malignity of a witch, and doing the +mischief attributed to one,--but by natural means; breaking off +love-affairs, teaching children vices, ruining men of wealth, etc. + +Ladislaus, King of Naples, besieging the city of Florence, agreed to show +mercy, provided the inhabitants would deliver to him a certain virgin of +famous beauty, the daughter of a physician of the city. When she was +sent to the king, every one contributing something to adorn her in the +richest manner, her father gave her a perfumed handkerchief, at that time +a universal decoration, richly wrought. This handkerchief was poisoned +with his utmost art, . . . . and they presently died in one another's +arms. + +Of a bitter satirist,--of Swift, for instance,--it might be said, that +the person or thing on which his satire fell shrivelled up as if the +Devil had spit on it. + +The Fount of Tears,--a traveller to discover it,--and other similar +localites. + +Benvenuto Cellini saw a Salamander in the household fire. It was shown +him by his father, in childhood. + +For the virtuoso's collection,--the pen with which Faust signed away his +salvation, with a drop of blood dried in it. + +An article on newspaper advertisements,--a country newspaper, methinks, +rather than a city one. + +An eating-house, where all the dishes served out, even to the bread and +salt, shall be poisoned with the adulterations that are said to be +practised. Perhaps Death himself might be the cook. + +Personify the century,--talk of its present middle age,--of its youth,-- +and its adventures and prospects. + +An uneducated countryman, supposing he had a live frog in his stomach, +applied himself to the study of medicine in order to find a cure for this +disease; and he became a profound physician. Thus misfortune, physical +or moral, may be the means of educating and elevating us. + +"Mather's Manuductio ad Ministerium,"--or "Directions for a candidate" +for the ministry,--with the autographs of four successive clergymen in +it, all of them, at one time or another, residents of the old Manse,-- +Daniel Bliss, 1734; William Emerson, 1770; Ezra Ripley, 1781; and Samuel +Ripley, son of the preceding. The book, according to a Latin memorandum, +was sold to Daniel Bliss by Daniel Bremner, who, I suppose, was another +student of divinity. Printed at Boston "for Thomas Hancock, and sold at +his shop in Ann St. near the Draw Bridge, 1726." William Emerson was +son-in-law of Daniel Bliss. Ezra Ripley married the widow of said +William Emerson, and Samuel Ripley was their son. + +Mrs. Prescott has an ox whose visage bears a strong resemblance to Daniel +Webster,--a majestic brute. + +The spells of witches have the power of producing meats and viands that +have the appearance of a sumptuous feast, which the Devil furnishes. But +a Divine Providence seldom permits the meat to be good, but it has +generally some bad taste or smell,--mostly wants salt,--and the feast is +often without bread. + +An article on cemeteries, with fantastic ideas of monuments; for +instance, a sun-dial;--a large, wide carved stone chair, with some such +motto as "Rest and Think," and others, facetious or serious. + +"Mamma, I see a part of your smile,"--a child to her mother, whose mouth +was partly covered by her hand. + +"The syrup of my bosom,"--an improvisation of a little girl, addressed to +an imaginary child. + +"The wind-turn," "the lightning-catch," a child's phrases for weathercock +and lightning-rod. + +"Where's the man-mountain of these Liliputs?" cried a little boy, as he +looked at a small engraving of the Greeks getting into the wooden horse. + +When the sun shines brightly on the new snow, we discover ranges of +hills, miles away towards the south, which we have never seen before. + +To have the North Pole for a fishing-pole, and the Equinoctial Line for a +fishing-line. + +If we consider the lives of the lower animals, we shall see in them a +close parallelism to those of mortals;--toil, struggle, danger, +privation, mingled with glimpses of peace and ease; enmity, affection, a +continual hope of bettering themselves, although their objects lie at +less distance before them than ours can do. Thus, no argument for the +imperfect character of our existence and its delusory promises, and its +apparent injustice, can be drawn in reference to our immortality, +without, in a degree, being applicable to our brute brethren. + + +Lenox, February 12th, 1851.--A walk across the lake with Una. A heavy +rain, some days ago, has melted a good deal of the snow on the +intervening descent between our house and the lake; but many drifts, +depths, and levels yet remain; and there is a frozen crust, sufficient to +bear a man's weight, and very slippery. Adown the slopes there are tiny +rivulets, which exist only for the winter. Bare, brown spaces of grass +here and there, but still so infrequent as only to diversify the scene a +little. In the woods, rocks emerging, and, where there is a slope +immediately towards the lake, the snow is pretty much gone, and +we see partridge-berries frozen, and outer shells of walnuts, and +chestnut-burrs, heaped or scattered among the roots of the trees. The +walnut-husks mark the place where the boys, after nutting, sat down to +clear the walnuts of their outer shell. The various species of pine look +exceedingly brown just now,--less beautiful than those trees which shed +their leaves. An oak-tree, with almost all its brown foliage still +rustling on it. We clamber down the bank, and step upon the frozen lake, +It was snow-covered for a considerable time; but the rain overspread it +with a surface of water, or imperfectly melted snow, which is now hard +frozen again; and the thermometer having been frequently below zero, I +suppose the ice may be four or five feet thick. Frequently there are +great cracks across it, caused, I suppose, by the air beneath, and giving +an idea of greater firmness than if there were no cracks; round holes, +which have been hewn in the marble pavement by fishermen, and are now +frozen over again, looking darker than the rest of the surface; spaces +where the snow was more imperfectly dissolved than elsewhere little +crackling spots, where a thin surface of ice, over the real mass, +crumples beneath one's foot; the track of a line of footsteps, most of +them vaguely formed, but some quite perfectly, where a person passed +across the lake while its surface was in a state of slush, but which are +now as hard as adamant, and remind one of the traces discovered by +geologists in rocks that hardened thousands of ages ago. It seems as if +the person passed when the lake was in an intermediate state between ice +and water. In one spot some pine boughs, which somebody had cut and +heaped there for an unknown purpose. In the centre of the lake, we see +the surrounding hills in a new attitude, this being a basin in the midst +of them. Where they are covered with wood, the aspect is gray or black; +then there are bare slopes of unbroken snow, the outlines and +indentations being much more hardly and firmly defined than in summer. +We went southward across the lake, directly towards Monument Mountain, +which reposes, as I said, like a headless sphinx. Its prominences, +projections, and roughnesses are very evident; and it does not present a +smooth and placid front, as when the grass is green and the trees in +leaf. At one end, too, we are sensible of precipitous descents, black +and shaggy with the forest that is likely always to grow there; and, in +one streak, a headlong sweep downward of snow. We just set our feet +on the farther shore, and then immediately returned, facing the +northwest-wind, which blew very sharply against us. + +After landing, we came homeward, tracing up the little brook so far as it +lay in our course. It was considerably swollen, and rushed fleetly on +its course between overhanging banks of snow and ice, from which depended +adamantine icicles. The little waterfalls with which we had impeded it +in the summer and autumn could do no more than form a large ripple, so +much greater was the volume of water. In some places the crust of frozen +snow made a bridge quite over the brook; so that you only knew it was +there by its brawling sound beneath. + +The sunsets of winter are incomparably splendid, and when the ground is +covered with snow, no brilliancy of tint expressible by words can come +within an infinite distance of the effect. Our southern view at that +time, with the clouds and atmospherical hues, is quite indescribable and +unimaginable; and the various distances of the hills which lie between us +and the remote dome of Taconic are brought out with an accuracy +unattainable in summer. The transparency of the air at this season has +the effect of a telescope in bringing objects apparently near, while it +leaves the scene all its breadth. The sunset sky, amidst its splendor, +has a softness and delicacy that impart themselves to a white marble +world. + +February 18th.--A walk, yesterday afternoon, with the children; a bright, +and rather cold day, breezy from the north and westward. There has been +a good deal of soaking rain lately, and it has, in great measure, cleared +hills and plains of snow, only it may be seen lying in spots, and on each +side of stone-walls, in a pretty broad streak. The grass is brown and +withered, and yet, scattered all amongst it, on close inspection, one +finds a greenness,--little shrubs that have kept green under all the +severity of winter, and seem to need no change to fit them for midsummer. +In the woods we see stones covered with moss that retains likewise a most +lively green. Where the trees are dense, the snow still lies under them. +On the sides of the mountains, some miles off, the black pines and the +white snow among them together produce a gray effect. The little streams +are the most interesting objects at this time; some that have an +existence only at this season,--Mississippis of the moment;--yet glide +and tumble along as if they were perennial. The familiar ones seem +strange by their breadth and volume; their little waterfalls set off by +glaciers on a small scale. The sun has by this time force enough to make +sheltered nooks in the angles of woods, or on banks, warm and +comfortable. The lake is still of adamantine substance, but all round +the borders there is a watery margin, altogether strewed or covered with +thin and broken ice, so that I could not venture on it with the children. +A chickadee was calling in the woods yesterday,--the only small bird I +have taken note of yet; but, crows have been cawing in the woods for a +week past, though not in very great numbers. + + +February 22d.--For the last two or three days there has been a warm, +soaking, southeasterly rain, with a spongy moisture diffused through the +atmosphere. The snow has disappeared, except in spots which are the +ruins of high drifts, and patches far up on the hillsides. The mists +rest all day long on the brows of the hills that shut in our valley. The +road over which I walk every day to and from the village is in the worst +state of mud and mire, soft, slippery, nasty to tread upon; while the +grass beside it is scarcely better, being so oozy and so overflowed with +little streams, and sometimes an absolute bog. The rivulets race along +the road, adown the hills; and wherever there is a permanent brooklet, +however generally insignificant, it is now swollen into importance, and +the rumble and tumble of its waterfalls may be heard a long way off. The +general effect of the day and scenery is black, black, black. The +streams are all as turbid as mud-puddles. + +Imitators of original authors might be compared to plaster casts of +marble statues, or the imitative book to a cast of the original marble. + + +March 11th.--After the ground had been completely freed of snow, there +has been a snow-storm for the two days preceding yesterday, which made +the earth all white again. This morning, at sunrise, the thermometer +stood at about 18 degrees above zero. Monument Mountain stands out in +great prominence, with its dark forest-covered sides, and here and there +a large, white patch, indicating tillage or pasture land; but making a +generally dark contrast with the white expanse of the frozen and +snow-covered lake at its base, and the more undulating white of the +surrounding country. Yesterday, under the sunshine of midday, and with +many voluminous clouds hanging over it, and a mist of wintry warmth in +the air, it had a kind of visionary aspect, although still it was brought +out in striking relief. But though one could see all its bulgings, round +swells, and precipitous abruptnesses, it looked as much akin to the +clouds as to solid earth and rock substance. In the early sunshine of +the morning, the atmosphere being very clear, I saw the dome of Taconic +with more distinctness than ever before, the snow-patches and brown, +uncovered soil on its round head being fully visible. Generally it is +but a dark blue unvaried mountain-top. All the ruggedness of the +intervening hill-country was likewise effectively brought out. There +seems to be a sort of illuminating quality in new snow, which it loses +after being exposed for a day or two to the suit and atmosphere. + +For a child's story,--the voyage of a little boat, made of a chip, with a +birch-bark sail, down a river. + + +March 31st.--A walk with the children yesterday forenoon. We went +through the wood, where we found partridge-berries, half hidden among the +dry, fallen leaves; thence down to the brook. This little brook has not +cleansed itself from the disarray of the past autumn and winter, and is +much embarrassed and choked up with brown leaves, twigs, and bits of +branches. It rushes along merrily and rapidly, gurgling cheerfully, and +tumbling over the impediments of stones with which the children and I +made little waterfalls last year. At many spots, there are small basins +or pools of calmer and smoother depth,--three feet, perhaps, in diameter, +and a foot or two deep,--in which little fish are already sporting about; +all elsewhere is tumble and gurgle and mimic turbulence. I sat on the +withered leaves at the foot of a tree, while the children played, a +little brook being the most fascinating plaything that a child can have. +Una jumped to and fro across it; Julian stood beside a pool, fishing with +a stick, without hook or line, and wondering that he caught nothing. +Then he made new waterfalls with mighty labor, pulling big stones out of +the earth, and flinging them into the current. Then they sent branches +of trees, or the outer shells of walnuts, sailing down the stream, and +watched their passages through the intricacies of the way,--how they were +hurried over in a cascade, hurried dizzily round in a whirlpool, or +brought quite to a stand-still amongst the collected rubbish. At last +Julian tumbled into the brook, and was wetted through and through so that +we were obliged to come home; he squelching along all the way, with his +india-rubber shoes full of water. + +There are still patches of snow on the hills; also in the woods, +especially on the northern margins. The lake is not yet what we may call +thawed out, although there is a large space of blue water, and the ice is +separated from the shore everywhere, and is soft, water-soaked, and +crumbly. On favorable slopes and exposures, the earth begins to look +green; and almost anywhere, if one looks closely, one sees the greenness +of the grass, or of little herbage, amidst the brown. Under the +nut-trees are scattered some of the nuts of last year; the walnuts have +lost their virtue, the chestnuts do not seem to have much taste, but the +butternuts are in no manner deteriorated. The warmth of these days has a +mistiness, and in many respects resembles the Indian summer, and is not +at all provocative of physical exertion. Nevertheless, the general +impression is of life, not death. One feels that a new season has begun. + + +Wednesday, April 9th.--There was a great rain yesterday,--wind from the +southeast, and the last visible vestige of snow disappeared. It was a +small patch near the summit of Bald Mountain, just on the upper verge of +a grove of trees. I saw a slight remnant of it yesterday afternoon, but +to-day it is quite gone. The grass comes up along the roadside and on +favorable exposures, with a sort of green blush. Frogs have been +melodious for a fortnight, and the birds sing pleasantly. + + +April 20th.--The children found Houstonias more than a week ago. There +have been easterly wind, continual cloudiness, and occasional rain for a +week. This morning opened with a great snow-storm from the northeast, +one of the most earnest snow-storms of the year, though rather more moist +than in midwinter. The earth is entirely covered. Now, as the day +advances towards noon, it shows some symptoms of turning to rain. + + +April 28th.--For a week we have found the trailing arbutus pretty +abundant in the woods. A day or two since, Una found a few purple +violets, and yesterday a dandelion in bloom. The fragrance of the +arbutus is spicy and exquisite. + + +May 16th.--In our walks now, the children and I find blue, white, and +golden violets, the former, especially, of great size and richness. +Houstonias are very abundant, blue-whitening some of the pastures. They +are a very sociable little flower, and dwell close together in +communities,--sometimes covering a space no larger than the palm of the +hand, but keeping one another in cheerful heart and life,--sometimes they +occupy a much larger space. Lobelia, a pink flower, growing in the +woods. Columbines, of a pale red, because they have lacked sun, growing +in rough and rocky places on banks in the copses, precipitating towards +the lake. The leaves of the trees are not yet out, but are so apparent +that the woods are getting a very decided shadow. Water-weeds on the +edge of the lake, of a deep green, with roots that seem to have nothing +to do with earth, but with water only. + + +May 23d.--I think the face of nature can never look more beautiful than +now, with this so fresh and youthful green,--the trees not being fully in +leaf, yet enough so to give airy shade to the woods. The sunshine fills +them with green light. Monument Mountain and its brethren are green, and +the lightness of the tint takes away something from their massiveness and +ponderosity, and they respond with livelier effect to the shine and shade +of the sky. Each tree now within sight stands out in its own +individuality of line. This is a very windy day, and the light shifts +with magical alternation. In a walk to the lake just now with the +children, we found abundance of flowers,--wild geranium, violets of all +families, red columbines, and many others known and unknown, besides +innumerable blossoms of the wild strawberry, which has been in bloom for +the past fortnight. The Houstonias seem quite to overspread some +pastures, when viewed from a distance. Not merely the flowers, but the +various shrubs which one sees,--seated, for instance, on the decayed +trunk of a tree,--are well worth looking at, such a variety and such +enjoyment they have of their new growth. Amid these fresh creations, we +see others that have already run their course, and have done with warmth +and sunshine,--the hoary periwigs, I mean, of dandelions gone to seed. + + +August 7th.--Fourier states that, in the progress of the world, the ocean +is to lose its saltness, and acquire the taste of a peculiarly flavored +lemonade. + + +October 13th.--How pleasant it is to see a human countenance which cannot +be insincere,--in reference to baby's smile. + +The best of us being unfit to die, what an inexpressible absurdity to put +the worst to death! + +"Is that a burden of sunshine on Apollo's back?" asked one of the +children,--of the chlamys on our Apollo Belvedere. + + +October 21st.--Going to the village yesterday afternoon, I saw the face +of a beautiful woman, gazing at me from a cloud. It was the full face, +not the bust. It had a sort of mantle on the head, and a pleasant +expression of countenance. The vision lasted while I took a few +steps, and then vanished. I never before saw nearly so distinct a +cloud-picture, or rather sculpture; for it came out in alto-rilievo on +the body of the cloud. + + +October 27th.--The ground this morning is white with a thin covering of +snow. The foliage has still some variety of hue. The dome of Taconic +looks dark, and seems to have no snow on it, though I don't understand +how that can be. I saw, a moment ago, on the lake, a very singular +spectacle. There is a high northwest-wind ruffling the lake's surface, +and making it blue, lead-colored, or bright, in stripes or at intervals; +but what I saw was a boiling up of foam, which began at the right bank of +the lake, and passed quite across it; and the mist flew before it, like +the cloud out of a steam-engine. A fierce and narrow blast of wind must +have ploughed the water in a straight line, from side to side of the +lake. As fast as it went on, the foam subsided behind it, so that it +looked somewhat like a sea-serpent, or other monster, swimming very +rapidly. + + +October 29th.--On a walk to Scott's pond, with Ellery Channing, we found +a wild strawberry in the woods, not quite ripe, but beginning to redden. +For a week or two, the cider-mills have been grinding apples. Immense +heaps of apples lie piled near them, and the creaking of the press is +heard as the horse treads on. Farmers are repairing cider-barrels; and +the wayside brook is made to pour itself into the bunghole of a barrel, +in order to cleanse it for the new cider. + + +November 3d.--The face of the country is dreary now in a cloudy day like +the present. The woods on the hillsides look almost black, and the +cleared spaces a kind of gray brown. + +Taconic, this morning (4th), was a black purple, as dense and distinct as +Monument Mountain itself. I hear the creaking of the cider-press; the +patient horse going round and round, perhaps thirsty, to make the liquor +which he never can enjoy. + +We left Lenox Friday morning, November 21, 1851, in a storm of snow and +sleet, and took the cars at Pittsfield, and arrived at West Newton that +evening. + +Happiness in this world, when it comes, comes incidentally. Make it the +object of pursuit, and it leads us a wild-goose chase, and is never +attained. Follow some other object, and very possibly we may find that +we have caught happiness, without dreaming of it; but likely enough it is +gone the moment we say to ourselves, "Here it is!" like the chest of gold +that treasure-seekers find. + + +West Newton, April 13th, 1852.--One of the severest snow-storms of the +winter. + + +April 30th.--Wrote the last page (199th MS.) of the Blithedale Romance. + + +May 1st.--Wrote Preface. Afterwards modified the conclusion, and +lengthened it to 201 pages. First proof-sheets, May 14. + + +Concord, Mass., August 20th.--A piece of land contiguous to and connected +with a handsome estate, to the adornment and good appearance of which it +was essential.--But the owner of the strip of land was at variance with +the owner of the estate, so he always refused to sell it at any price, +but let it lie there, wild and ragged, in front of and near the +mansion-house. When he dies, the owner of the estate, who has rejoiced +at the approach of the event all through his enemy's illness, hopes at +last to buy it; but, to his infinite discomfiture, the enemy enjoined in +his will that his body should be buried in the centre of this strip of +land. All sorts of ugly weeds grow most luxuriantly out of the grave in +poisonous rankness. + + +The Isles of Shoals, Monday, August 30th.--Left Concord at a quarter of +nine A. M. Friday, September 3, set sail at about half past ten to the +Isles of Shoals. The passengers were an old master of a vessel; a young, +rather genteel man from Greenland, N. H.; two Yankees from Hamilton and +Danvers; and a country trader (I should judge) from some inland town of +New Hampshire. The old sea-captain, preparatory to sailing, bought a +bunch of cigars (they cost ten cents), and occasionally puffed one. The +two Yankees had brought guns on board, and asked questions about the +fishing of the Shoals. They were young men, brothers, the youngest a +shopkeeper in Danvers, the other a farmer, I imagine, at Hamilton, and +both specimens of the least polished kind of Yankee, and therefore proper +to those localities. They were at first full of questions, and greatly +interested in whatever was going forward; but anon the shopkeeper began +to grow, first a little, then very sick, till he lay along the boat, +longing, as he afterwards said, for a little fresh water to be drowned +in. His brother attended him in a very kindly way, but became sick +himself before he reached the end of the voyage. + +The young Greenlander talked politics, or rather discussed the personal +character of Pierce. The New Hampshire trader said not a word, or hardly +one, all the way. A Portsmouth youth (whom I forgot to mention) sat in +the stern of the boat, looking very white. The skipper of the boat is a +Norwegian, a good-natured fellow, not particularly intelligent, and +speaking in a dialect somewhat like Irish. He had a man with him, a +silent and rather sulky fellow, who, at the captain's bidding, grimly +made himself useful. + +The wind not being favorable, we had to make several tacks before +reaching the islands, where we arrived at about two o'clock. We landed +at Appledore, on which is Laighton's Hotel,--a large building with a +piazza or promenade before it, about an hundred and twenty feet in +length, or more,--yes, it must be more. It is an edifice with a centre +and two wings, the central part upwards of seventy feet. At one end of +the promenade is a covered veranda, thirty or forty feet square, so +situated that the breeze draws across it from the sea on one side of the +island to the sea on the other, and it is the breeziest and comfortablest +place in the world on a hot day. There are two swings beneath it, and +here one may sit or walk, and enjoy life, while all other mortals are +suffering. + +As I entered the door of the hotel, there met me a short, corpulent, +round, and full-faced man, rather elderly, if not old. He was a little +lame. He addressed me in a hearty, hospitable tone, and, judging that it +must be my landlord, I delivered a letter of introduction from Pierce. +Of course it was fully efficient in obtaining the best accommodations +that were to be had. I found that we were expected, a man having brought +the news of our intention the day before. Here ensued great inquiries +after the General, and wherefore he had not come. I was looked at with +considerable curiosity on my own account, especially by the ladies, of +whom there were several, agreeable and pretty enough. There were four or +five gentlemen, most of whom had not much that was noteworthy. + +After dinner, which was good and abundant, though somewhat rude in its +style, I was introduced by Mr. Laighton to Mr. Thaxter, his son-in-law, +and Mr. Weiss, a clergyman of New Bedford, who is staying here for his +health. They showed me some of the remarkable features of the island, +such as a deep chasm in the cliffs of the shore, towards the southwest; +also a monument of rude stones, on the highest point of the island, said +to have been erected by Captain John Smith before the settlement at +Plymouth. The tradition is just as good as truth. Also, some ancient +cellars, with thistles and other weeds growing in them, and old +fragmentary bricks scattered about. The date of these habitations is not +known; but they may well be the remains of the settlement that Cotton +Mather speaks about; or perhaps one of them was the house where Sir +William Pepperell was born, and where he went when he and somebody else +set up a stick, and travelled to seek their fortunes in the direction in +which it fell. + +In the evening, the company at the hotel made up two whist parties, at +one of which I sat down,--my partner being an agreeable young lady from +Portsmouth. We played till I, at least, was quite weary. It had been +the beautifullest of weather all day, very hot on the mainland, but a +delicious climate under our veranda. + + +Saturday, September 4th.--Another beautiful day, rather cooler than the +preceding, but not too cool. I can bear this coolness better than that +of the interior. In the forenoon, I took passage for Star Island, in a +boat that crosses daily whenever there are passengers. My companions +were the two Yankees, who had quite recovered from yesterday's sickness, +and were in the best of spirits and the utmost activity of mind of which +they were capable. Never was there such a string of questions as they +directed to the boatman,--questions that seemed to have no gist, so far +as related to any use that could be made of the answers. They appear to +be very good young men, however, well-meaning, and with manners not +disagreeable, because their hearts are not amiss. Star Island is less +than a mile from Appledore. It is the most populous island of the +group,--has been, for three or four years, an incorporated township, and +sends a representative to the New Hampshire legislature. The number of +voters is variously represented as from eighteen to twenty-eight. The +inhabitants are all, I presume, fishermen. Their houses stand in pretty +close neighborhood to one another, scattered about without the slightest +regularity or pretence of a street, there being no wheel-carriages on the +island. Some of the houses are very comfortable two-story dwellings. I +saw two or three, I think, with flowers. There are also one or two trees +on the island. There is a strong odor of fishiness, and the little cove +is full of mackerel-boats, and other small craft for fishing, in some of +which little boys of no growth at all were paddling about. Nearly in the +centre of this insular metropolis is a two-story house, with a flag-staff +in the yard. This is the hotel. + +On the highest point of Star Island stands the church,--a small, wooden +structure; and, sitting in its shadow, I found a red-baize-skirted +fisherman, who seemed quite willing to converse. He said that there was +a minister here, who was also the schoolmaster; but that he did not keep +school just now, because his wife was very much out of health. The +school-house stood but a little way from the meeting-house, and near it +was the minister's dwelling; and by and by I had a glimpse of the good +man himself, in his suit of black, which looked in very decent condition +at the distance from which I viewed it. His clerical air was quite +distinguishable, and it was rather curious to see it, when everybody else +wore red-baize shirts and fishing-boots, and looked of the scaly genus. +He did not approach me, and I saw him no nearer. I soon grew weary of +Gosport, and was glad to re-embark, although I intend to revisit the +island with Mr. Thaxter, and see more of its peculiarities and +inhabitants. I saw one old witch-looking woman creeping about with a +cane, and stooping down, seemingly to gather herbs. On mentioning her to +Mr. Thaxter, after my return, he said that it was probably "the bearded +woman." I did not observe her beard; but very likely she may have had +one. + +The larger part of the company at the hotel returned to the mainland +to-day. There remained behind, however, a Mr. T------ from Newburyport, +--a man of natural refinement, and a taste for reading that seems to +point towards the writings of Emerson, Thoreau, and men of that class. I +have had a good deal of talk with him, and at first doubted whether he +might not be a clergyman; but Mr. Thaxter tells me that he has made his +own way in the world,--was once a sailor before the mast, and is now +engaged in mercantile pursuits. He looks like nothing of this kind, +being tall and slender, with very quiet manners, not beautiful, though +pleasing from the refinement that they indicate. He has rather a precise +and careful pronunciation, but yet a natural way of talking. + +In the afternoon I walked round a portion of the island that I had not +previously visited, and in the evening went with Mr. Titcomb to Mr. +Thaxter's to drink apple-toddy. We found Mrs. Thaxter sitting in a neat +little parlor, very simply furnished, but in good taste. She is not now, +I believe, more than eighteen years old, very pretty, and with the +manners of a lady,--not prim and precise, but with enough of freedom and +ease. The books on the table were "Pre-Raphaelitism," a tract on +spiritual mediums, etc. There were several shelves of books on one side +of the room, and engravings on the walls. Mr. Weiss was there, and I do +not know but he is an inmate of Mr. Thaxter's. By and by came in Mr. +Thaxter's brother, with a young lady whose position I do not know,-- +either a sister or the brother's wife. Anon, too, came in the +apple-toddy, a very rich and spicy compound; after which we had some +glees and negro melodies, in which Mr. Thaxter sang a noble bass, and +Mrs. Thaxter sang like a bird, and Mr. Weiss sang, I suppose, tenor, and +the brother took some other part, and all were very mirthful and jolly. +At about ten o'clock Mr. Titcomb and myself took leave, and emerging into +the open air, out of that room of song, and pretty youthfulness of woman, +and gay young men, there was the sky, and the three-quarters waning moon, +and the old sea moaning all round about the island. + + +Sunday, September 5th.--To-day I have done little or nothing except to +roam along the shore of the island, and to sit under the piazza, talking +with Mr. Laighton or some of his half-dozen guests; and about an hour +before dinner I came up to my room, and took a brief nap. Since dinner I +have been writing the foregoing journal. I observe that the Fanny +Ellsler, our passenger and mail boat, has arrived from Portsmouth, and +now lies in a little cove, moored to the rocky shore, with a flag flying +at her main-mast. We have been watching her for some hours, but she +stopped to fish, and then went to some other island, before putting in +here. I must go and see what news she has brought. + +"What did you fire at?" asked one of the Yankees just now of a boy who +had been firing a gun. "Nothing," said the boy. "Did you hit it?" +rejoined the Yankee. + +The farmer is of a much ruder and rougher mould than his brother,-- +heavier in frame and mind, and far less cultivated. It was on this +account, probably, that he labored as a farmer, instead of setting up a +shop. When it is warm, as yesterday, he takes off his coat, and, not +minding whether or no his shirt-sleeves be soiled, goes in this guise to +meals or wherever else,---not resuming his coat as long as he is more +comfortable without it. His shoulders have a stoop, and altogether his +air is that of a farmer in repose. His brother is handsome, and might +have quite the aspect of a smart, comely young man, if well dressed. + +This island is said to be haunted by a spectre called "Old Bab." He was +one of Captain Kidd's men, and was slain for the protection of the +treasure. Mr. Laighton said that, before he built his house, nothing +would have induced the inhabitant of another island to come to this after +nightfall. The ghost especially haunts the space between the hotel and +the cove in front. There has, in times past, been great search for the +treasure. + +Mr. Thaxter tells me that the women on the island are very timid as to +venturing on the sea,--more so than the women of the mainland,--and that +they are easily frightened about their husbands. Very few accidents +happen to the boats or men,--none, I think, since Mr. Thaxter has been +here. They are not an enterprising set of people, never liking to make +long voyages. Sometimes one of them will ship on a voyage to the West +Indies, but generally only on coastwise trips, or fishing or mackerel +voyages. They have a very strong local attachment, and return to die. +They are now generally temperate, formerly very much the contrary. + + +September 5th.--A large part of the guests took their departure after an +early breakfast this morning, including Mr. Titcomb, Mr. Weiss, the two +Yankees, and Mr. Thaxter,--who, however, went as skipper or supercargo, +and will return with the boat. I have been fishing for cunners off the +rocks, but with intolerably poor success. There is nothing so +dispiriting as poor fishing, and I spend most of the time with my head on +my hands, looking at the sea breaking against the rocks, shagged around +the bases with sea-weed. It is a sunny forenoon, with a cool breeze from +the southwest. The mackerel craft are in the offing. Mr. Laighton says +that the Spy (the boat which went to the mainland this morning) is now on +her return with all her colors set; and he thinks that Pierce is on +board, he having sent Mr. Thaxter to invite him to come in this boat. + +Pierce arrived before dinner in the Spy, accompanied by Judge Upham and +his brother and their wives, his own wife, Mr. Furness, and three young +ladies. After dinner some of the gentlemen crossed over to Gosport, +where we visited the old graveyard, in which were monuments to Rev. Mr. +Tucke (died 1773, after forty years' settlement) and to another and later +minister of the island. They were of red freestone, lying horizontally +on piles of the granite fragments, such as are scattered all about. +There were other graves, marked by the rudest shapes of stones at head +and foot. And so many stones protruded from the ground, that it was +wonderful how space and depth enough was found between them to cover the +dead. We went to the house of the town clerk of Gosport (a drunken +fisherman, Joe Caswell by name) and there found the town records, +commencing in 1732 in a beautiful style of penmanship. They are +imperfect, the township having been broken up, probably at the time of +the Revolution. Caswell, being very drunk, immediately put in a petition +to Pierce to build a sea-mole for the protection of the navigation of the +island when he should be President. He was dressed in the ordinary +fisherman's style,--red-baize shirt, trousers tucked into large boots, +which, as he had just come ashore, were wet with salt water. + +He led us down to the shore of the island, towards the east, and showed +us Betty Moody's Hole. This Betty Moody was a woman of the island in old +times. The Indians came off on a depredating excursion, and she fled +from them with a child, and hid herself in this hole, which is formed by +several great rocks being lodged so as to cover one of the fissures which +are common along these shores. I crept into the hole, which is somewhat +difficult of access, long, low, and narrow, and might well enough be a +hiding-place. The child, or children, began to cry; and Betty, fearful +of discovery, murdered them to save herself. Joe Caswell did not tell +the latter part of the story, but Mr. Thaxter did. + +Not far from the spot there is a point of rocks extending out farther +into the ocean than the rest of the island. Some four or five years ago +there was a young woman residing at Gosport in the capacity of +schoolteacher. She was of a romantic turn, and used to go and sit on +this point of rock to view the waves. One day, when the wind was high, +and the surf raging against the rocks, a great wave struck her, as she +sat on the edge, and seemed to deprive her of sense; another wave, or the +reflex of the same one, carried her off into the sea, and she was seen no +more. This happened, I think, in 1846. + +Passing a rock near the centre of the island, which rose from the soil +about breast-high, and appeared to have been split asunder, with an +incalculably aged and moss-grown fissure, the surfaces of which, however, +precisely suited each other; Mr. Hatch mentioned that there was an idea +among the people, with regard to rocks thus split, that they were rent +asunder at the time of the Crucifixion. Judge Upham observed that this +superstition was common in all parts of the country. + +Mr. Hatch said that he was professionally consulted, the other day, by a +man who had been digging for buried treasure at Dover Point; up the +Piscataqua River; and, while he and his companions were thus engaged, the +owner of the land came upon them, and compelled Hatch's client to give +him a note for a sum of money. The object was to inquire whether this +note was obligatory. Hatch says that there are a hundred people now +resident in Portsmouth, who, at one time or another, have dug for +treasure. The process is, in the first place, to find out the site of +the treasure by the divining-rod. A circle is then described with the +steel rod about the spot, and a man walks around within its verge, +reading the Bible to keep off the evil spirit while his companions dig. +If a word is spoken, the whole business is a failure. Once the person +who told him the story reached the lid of the chest, so that the spades +plainly scraped upon it, when one of the men spoke, and the chest +immediately moved sideways into the earth. Another time, when he was +reading the Bible within the circle, a creature like a white horse, but +immoderately large, came from a distance towards the circle, looked at +him, and then began to graze about the spot. He saw the motion of the +jaws, but heard no sound of champing. His companions saw the gigantic +horse precisely as he did, only to them it appeared bay instead of white. + +The islanders stared with great curiosity at Pierce. One pretty young +woman appeared inclined to engross him entirely to herself. + +There is a bowling-alley on the island, at which some of the young +fishermen were rolling. + + +September 7th.--. . . . I have made no exploration to-day, except a walk +with the guests in the morning, but have lounged about the piazza and +veranda. It has been a calm, warm, sunny day, the sea slumbering against +the shores, and now and then breaking into white foam. + +The surface of the island is plentifully overgrown with whortleberry and +bayberry bushes. The sheep cut down the former, so that few berries are +produced; the latter gives a pleasant fragrance when pressed in the hand. +The island is one great ledge of rock, four hundred acres in extent, with +a little soil thrown scantily over it; but the bare rock everywhere +emerging, not only in points, but still more in flat surfaces. The only +trees, I think, are two that Mr. Laighton has been trying to raise in +front of the hotel, the taller of which looks scarcely so much as ten +feet high. It is now about sunset, and the Fanny, with the mail, is just +arrived at the moorings. So still is it, that the sounds on board (as of +throwing oars into a small boat) are distinctly heard, though a quarter +of a mile off. She has the Stars and Stripes flying at the main-mast. +There appear to be no passengers. + +The only reptile on the island is a very vivid and beautiful green snake, +which is exceedingly abundant. Yesterday, while catching grasshoppers +for fish-bait, I nearly griped one in my hand; indeed, I rather think I +did gripe it. The snake was as much startled as myself, and, in its +fright, stood an instant on its tail, before it recovered presence of +mind to glide away. These snakes are quite harmless. + + +September 8th.--Last evening we could hear the roaring of the beaches at +Hampton and Rye, nine miles off. The surf likewise swelled against the +rocky shores of the island, though there was little or no wind, and, +except for the swell, the surface was smooth. The sheep bleated loudly; +and all these tokens, according to Mr. Laighton, foreboded a storm to +windward. This morning, nevertheless, there were no further signs of it; +it is sunny and calm, or only the slightest breeze from the westward; a +haze sleeping along the shore, betokening a warm day; the surface of the +sea streaked with smoothness, and gentle ruffles of wind. It has been +the hottest day that I have known here, and probably one of the hottest +of the season ashore; and the land is now imperceptible in the haze. + +Smith's monument is about seven feet high, and probably ten or twelve in +diameter at its base. It is a cairn or mere heap of stones, thrown +together as they came to hand, though with some selection of large and +flat ones, towards the base, and with smaller ones thrown in. At the +foundation, there are large rocks, naturally imbedded in the earth. I +see no reason to disbelieve that a part of this monument may have been +erected by Captain Smith, although subsequent visitors may have added to +it. Laighton says it is known to have stood upwards of a hundred years. +It is a work of considerable labor, and would more likely have been +erected by one who supposed himself the first discoverer of the island +than by anybody afterwards for mere amusement. I observed in some +places, towards the base, that the lichens had grown from one stone to +another; and there is nothing in the appearance of the monument that +controverts the supposition of its antiquity. It is an irregular circle, +somewhat decreasing towards the top. Few of the stones, except at the +base, are bigger than a man could easily lift,--many of them are not more +than a foot across. It stands towards the southern part of the island; +and all the other islands are visible from it,--Smutty Nose, Star Island, +and White Island,--on which is the lighthouse,--much of Laighton's island +(the proper name of which is Hog, though latterly called Appledore), and +Duck Island, which looks like a mere reef of rocks, and about a mile +farther into the ocean, easterly of Hog Island. + +Laighton's Hotel, together with the house in which his son-in-law +resides, which was likewise built by Laighton, and stands about fifty +yards from the hotel, occupies the middle of a shallow valley, which +passes through the island from east to west. Looking from the veranda, +you have the ocean opening towards the east, and the bay towards Rye +Beach and Portsmouth on the west. In the same storm that overthrew +Minot's Light, a year or two ago, a great wave passed entirely through +this valley; and Laighton describes it, when it came in from the sea, as +toppling over to the height of the cupola of his hotel. It roared and +whitened through, from sea to sea, twenty feet abreast, rolling along +huge rocks in its passage. It passed beneath his veranda, which stands +on posts, and probably filled the valley completely. Would I had been +here to see! + +The day has been exceedingly hot. Since dinner, the Spy has arrived from +Portsmouth, with a party of half a dozen or more men and women and +children, apparently from the interior of New Hampshire. I am rather +sorry to receive these strangers into the quiet life that we are leading +here; for we had grown quite to feel ourselves at home, and the two young +ladies, Mr. Thaxter, his wife and sister, and myself, met at meal-times +like one family. The young ladies gathered shells, arranged them, +laughed gently, sang, and did other pretty things in a young-ladylike +way. These new-comers are people of uncouth voices and loud laughter, +and behave themselves as if they were trying to turn their expedition to +as much account as possible in the way of enjoyment. + +John's boat, the regular passenger-boat, is now coming in, and probably +brings the mail. + +In the afternoon, while some of the new-comers were fishing off the +rocks, west of the hotel, a shark came close in shore. Hearing their +outcries, I looked out of my chamber window, and saw the dorsal fin and +the fluke of his tail stuck up out of the water, as he moved to and fro. +He must have been eight or ten feet long. He had probably followed the +small fish into the bay, and got bewildered, and, at one time, he was +almost aground. + +Oscar, Mr. Laighton's son, ran down with a gun, and fired at the shark, +which was then not more than ten yards from the shore. He aimed, +according to his father's directions, just below the junction of the +dorsal fin with the body; but the gun was loaded only with shot, and +seemed to produce no effect. Oscar had another shot at him afterwards; +the shark floundered a little in the water, but finally got off and +disappeared, probably without very serious damage. He came so near the +shore that he might have been touched with a boat-hook. + + +September 9th.--Mr. Thaxter rowed me this morning, in his dory, to White +Island, on which is the lighthouse. There was scarcely a breath of air, +and a perfectly calm sea; an intensely hot sunshine, with a little haze, +so that the horizon was indistinct. Here and there sail-boats sleeping +on the water, or moving almost imperceptibly over it. The lighthouse +island would be difficult of access in a rough sea, the shore being so +rocky. On landing, we found the keeper peeling his harvest of onions, +which he had gathered prematurely, because the insects were eating them. +His little patch of garden seemed to be a strange kind of soil, as like +marine mud as anything; but he had a fair crop of marrow squashes, though +injured, as he said, by the last storm; and there were cabbages and a few +turnips. I recollect no other garden vegetables. The grass grows pretty +luxuriantly, and looked very green where there was any soil; but he kept +no cow, nor even a pig nor a hen. His house stands close by the garden, +--a small stone building, with peaked roof, and whitewashed. The +lighthouse stands on a ledge of rock, with a galley between, and there is +a long covered way, triangular in shape, connecting his residence with +it. We ascended into the lantern, which is eighty-seven feet high. It +is a revolving light, with several great illuminators of copper silvered, +and colored lamp-glasses. Looking downward, we had the island displayed +as on a chart, with its little bays, its isthmus of shingly beach +connecting two parts of the island, and overflowed at high tide; its +sunken rocks about it, indicated by the swell, or slightly breaking surf. +The keeper of the lighthouse was formerly a writing-master. He has a +sneaking kind of look, and does not bear a very high character among his +neighbors. Since he kept the light, he has lost two wives,--the first a +young creature whom he used to leave alone upon this desolate rock, and +the gloom and terror of the situation were probably the cause of her +death. The second wife, experiencing the same kind of treatment, ran +away from him, and returned to her friends. He pretends to be religious, +but drinks. About a year ago he attempted to row out alone from +Portsmouth. There was a head wind and head tide, and he would have +inevitably drifted out to sea, if Mr. Thaxter had not saved him. + +While we were standing in his garden-patch, I heard a woman's voice +inside the dwelling, but know not whose it was. A lighthouse nine miles +from shore would be a delightful place for a new-married couple to spend +their honeymoon, or their whole first year. + +On our way back we landed at another island called Londoner's Rock, or +some such name. It has but little soil. As we approached it, a large +bird flew away. Mr. Thaxter took it to be a gannet; and, while walking +over the island, an owl started up from among the rocks near us, and flew +away, apparently uncertain of its course. It was a brown owl, but Mr. +Thaxter says that there are beautiful white owls, which spend the winter +here, and feed upon rats. These are very abundant, and live amidst the +rocks,--probably having been brought hither by vessels. + +The water to-day was not so transparent as sometimes, but had a slight +haze diffused through it, somewhat like that of the atmosphere. + +The passengers brought by the Spy, yesterday, still remain with us. They +consist of country traders, a country doctor, and such sorts of people, +rude, shrewd, and simple, and well-behaved enough; wondering at sharks, +and equally at lobsters; sitting down to table with their coats off; +helping themselves out of the dish with their own forks; taking pudding +on the plates off which they have eaten meat. People at just this stage +of manners are more disagreeable than at any other stage. They are aware +of some decencies, but not so deeply aware as to make them a matter of +conscience. They may be heard talking of the financial affairs of the +expedition, reckoning what money each has paid. One offers to pay +another three or four cents, which the latter has overpaid. "It's of no +consequence, sir," says his friend, with a tone of conscious liberality, +"that's near enough." This is a most tremendously hot day. + +There is a young lady staying at the hotel, afflicted with what her +friends call erysipelas, but which is probably scrofula. She seems +unable to walk, or sit up; but every pleasant day, about the middle of +the forenoon, she is dragged out beneath the veranda, on a sofa. To-day +she has been there until late in the decline of the afternoon. It is a +delightful place, where the breezes stir, if any are in motion. The +young girls, her sisters or cousins, and Mr. Thaxter's sister, sat round +her, babbling cheerfully, and singing; and they were so merry that it did +not seem as if there could be an incurably sick one in the midst of them. + +The Spy came to-day, with more passengers of no particular character. +She still remains off the landing, moored, with her sails in the wind. + +The mail arrived to-day, but nothing for me. + +Close by the veranda, at the end of the hotel, is drawn up a large boat, +of ten or twelve tons, which got injured in some gale, and probably will +remain there for years to decay, and be a picturesque and characteristic +object. + +The Spy has been lying in the broad track of golden light, thrown by the +sun, far down towards the horizon, over the rippling water, her sails +throwing distinct, dark shadows over the brightness. She has now got +under way, and set sail on a northwest course for Portsmouth; carrying +off, I believe, all the passengers she brought to-day. + + +September 10th.--Here is another beautiful morning, with the sun dimpling +in the early sunshine. Four sailboats are in sight, motionless on the +sea, with the whiteness of their sails reflected in it. The heat-haze +sleeps along the shore, though not so as quite to hide it, and there is +the promise of another very warm day. As yet, however, the air is cool +and refreshing. Around the island, there is the little ruffle of a +breeze; but where the sail-boats are, a mile or more off, the sea is +perfectly calm. The crickets sing, and I hear the chirping of birds +besides. + +At the base of the lighthouse yesterday, we saw the wings and feathers of +a decayed little bird, and Mr. Thaxter said they often flew against the +lantern with such force as to kill themselves, and that large quantities +of them might be picked up. How came these little birds out of their +nests at night? Why should they meet destruction from the radiance that +proves the salvation of other beings? + +Mr. Thaxter had once a man living with him who had seen "Old Bab," the +ghost. He met him between the hotel and the sea, and describes him as +dressed in a sort of frock, and with a very dreadful countenance. + +Two or three years ago, the crew of a wrecked vessel, a brigantine, +wrecked near Boon Island, landed on Hog Island of a winter night, and +found shelter in the hotel. It was from the eastward. There were six or +seven men, with the mate and captain. It was midnight when they got +ashore. The common sailors, as soon as they were physically comfortable, +seemed to be perfectly at ease. The captain walked the floor, bemoaning +himself for a silver watch which he had lost; the mate, being the only +married man, talked about his Eunice. They all told their dreams of the +preceding night, and saw in them prognostics of the misfortune. + +There is now a breeze, the blue ruffle of which seems to reach almost +across to the mainland, yet with streaks of calm; and, in one place, the +glassy surface of a lake of calmness, amidst the surrounding commotion. + +The wind, in the early morning, was from the west, and the aspect of the +sky seemed to promise a warm and sunny day. But all at once, soon after +breakfast, the wind shifted round to the eastward; and great volumes of +fog, almost as dense as cannon-smoke, came sweeping from the eastern +ocean, through the valley, and past the house. It soon covered the whole +sea, and the whole island, beyond a verge of a few hundred yards. The +chilliness was not so great as accompanies a change of wind on the +mainland. We had been watching a large ship that was slowly making her +way between us and the land towards Portsmouth. This was now hidden. +The breeze is still very moderate; but the boat, moored near the shore, +rides with a considerable motion, as if the sea were getting up. + +Mr. Laighton says that the artist who adorned Trinity Church in New York +with sculpture wanted some real wings from which to imitate the wings of +cherubim. Mr. Thaxter carried him the wings of the white owl that +winters here at the Shoals, together with those of some other bird; and +the artist gave his cherubim the wings of an owl. + +This morning there have been two boat-loads of visitors from Rye. They +merely made a flying call, and took to their boats again,--a disagreeable +and impertinent kind of people. + +The Spy arrived before dinner, with several passengers. After dinner +came the Fanny, bringing, among other freight, a large basket of +delicious pears to me, together with a note from Mr. B. B. Titcomb. He +is certainly a man of excellent, taste and admirable behavior. I sent a +plateful of pears to the room of each guest now in the hotel, kept a +dozen for myself, and gave the balance to Mr. Laighton. + +The two Portsmouth young ladies returned in the Spy. I had grown +accustomed to their presence, and rather liked them; one of them being +gay and rather noisy, and the other quiet and gentle. As to new-comers, +I feel rather a distaste to them; and so, I find, does Mr. Laighton,--a +rather singular sentiment for a hotel-keeper to entertain towards his +guests. However, he treats them very hospitably, when once within his +doors. + +The sky is overcast, and, about the time of the Spy and the Fanny sailed, +there were a few drops of rain. The wind, at that time, was strong +enough to raise white-caps to the eastward of the island, and there was +good hope of a storm. Now, however, the wind has subsided, and the +weather-seers know not what to forebode. + + +September 11th.--The wind shifted and veered about, towards the close of +yesterday, and later it was almost calm, after blowing gently from the +northwest,--notwithstanding which it rained. There being a mistiness in +the air, we could see the gleam of the lighthouse itself by the highest +point of this island, or by our being in a valley. As we sat in the +piazza in the evening, we saw the light from on board some vessel move +slowly through the distant obscurity,--so slowly that we were only +sensible of its progress by forgetting it and looking again. The plash +and murmur of the waves around the island were soothingly audible. It +was not unpleasantly cold, and Mr. Laighton, Mr. Thaxter and myself sat +under the piazza till long after dark; the former at a little distance, +occasionally smoking his pipe, and Mr. Thaxter and I talking about poets +and the stage. The latter is an odd subject to be discussed in this +stern and wild scene, which has precisely the same characteristics now as +two hundred years ago. The mosquitoes were very abundant last night, and +they are certainly a hardier race than their inland brethren. + +This morning there is a sullen sky, with scarcely any breeze. The clouds +throw shadows of varied darkness upon the sea. I know not which way the +wind is; but the aspect of things seems to portend a calm drizzle as much +as anything else. + +About eleven o'clock, Mr. Thaxter took me over to Smutty Nose in his +dory. A sloop from the eastward, laden with laths, bark, and other +lumber, and a few barrels of mackerel, filled yesterday, and was left by +her skipper and crew. All the morning we have seen boats picking up her +deck-load, which was scattered over the sea, and along the shores of the +islands. The skipper and his three men got into Smutty Nose in the boat; +and the sloop was afterwards boarded by the Smutty Noses and brought into +that island. We saw her lying at the pier,--a black, ugly, rotten old +thing, with the water half-way over her decks. The wonder was, how she +swam so long. The skipper, a man of about thirty-five or forty, in a +blue pilot-cloth overcoat, and a rusty, high-crowned hat jammed down over +his brow, looked very forlorn; while the islanders were grouped about, +indolently enjoying the matter. + +I walked with Mr. Thaxter over the island, and saw first the graves of +the Spaniards. They were wrecked on this island a hundred years ago, and +lie buried in a range about thirty feet in length, to the number of +sixteen, with rough, moss-grown pieces of granite on each side of this +common grave. Near this spot, yet somewhat removed, so as not to be +confounded with it, are other individual graves, chiefly of the Haley +family, who were once possessors of the island. These have slate +gravestones. There is also, within a small enclosure of rough pine +boards, a white marble gravestone, in memory of a young man named Bekker, +son of the person who now keeps the hotel on Smutty Nose. He was buried, +Mr. Thaxter says, notwithstanding his marble monument, in a rude pine +box, which he himself helped to make. + +We walked to the farthest point of the island, and I have never seen a +more dismal place than it was on this sunless and east-windy day, being +the farthest point out into the melancholy sea, which was in no very +agreeable mood, and roared sullenly against the wilderness of rocks. One +mass of rock, more than twelve feet square, was thrown up out of the sea +in a storm, not many years since, and now lies athwartwise, never to be +moved unless another omnipotent wave shall give it another toss. On +shore, such a rock would be a landmark for centuries. It is +inconceivable how a sufficient mass of water could be brought to bear on +this ponderous mass; but, not improbably, all the fragments piled upon +one another round these islands have thus been flung to and fro at one +time or another. + +There is considerable land that would serve tolerably for pasture on +Smutty Nose, and here and there a little enclosure of richer grass, built +round with a strong stonewall. The same kind of enclosure is prevalent +on Star Island,--each small proprietor fencing off his little bit of +tillage or grass. Wild-flowers are abundant and various on these +islands; the bayberry-bush is plentiful on Smutty Nose, and makes the +hand that crushes it fragrant. + +The hotel is kept by a Prussian, an old soldier, who fought at the Battle +of Waterloo. We saw him in the barn,--a gray, heavy, round-skulled old +fellow, troubled with deafness. The skipper of the wrecked sloop had, +apparently, just been taking a drop of comfort, but still seemed +downcast. He took passage in a fishing-vessel, the Wave, of Kittery, for +Portsmouth; and I know not why, but there was something that made me +smile in his grim and gloomy look, his rusty, jammed hat, his rough and +grisly beard, and in his mode of chewing tobacco, with much action of the +jaws, getting out the juice as largely as possible, as men always do when +disturbed in mind. I looked at him earnestly, and was conscious of +something that marked him out from among the careless islanders around +him. Being as much discomposed as it was possible for him to be, his +feelings individualized the man and magnetized the observer. When he got +aboard the fishing-vessel, he seemed not entirely at his ease, being +accustomed to command and work amongst his own little crew, and now +having nothing to do. Nevertheless, unconsciously perhaps, he lent a +hand to whatever was going on, and yet had a kind of strangeness about +him. As the Wave set sail, we were just starting in our dory, and a +young fellow, an acquaintance of Mr. Thaxter, proposed to take us in tow; +so we were dragged along at her stern very rapidly, and with a whitening +wake, until we came off Hog Island. Then the dory was cast loose, and +Mr. Thaxter rowed ashore against a head sea. + +The day is still overcast, and the wind is from the eastward; but it does +not increase, and the sun appears occasionally on the point of shining +out. A boat--the Fanny, I suppose, from Portsmouth--has just come to her +moorings in front of the hotel. A sail-boat has put off from her, with a +passenger in the stern. Pray God she bring me a letter with good news +from home; for I begin to feel as if I had been long enough away. + +There is a bowling-alley on Smutty Nose, at which some of the +Star-Islanders were playing, when we were there. I saw only two +dwelling-houses besides the hotel. Connected with Smutty Nose by a +stone-wall there is another little bit of island, called Malaga. Both +are the property of Mr. Laighton. + +Mr. Laighton says that the Spanish wreck occurred forty-seven years ago, +instead of a hundred. Some of the dead bodies were found on Malaga, +others on various parts of the next island. One or two had crept to a +stone-wall that traverses Smutty Nose, but were unable to get over it. +One was found among the bushes the next summer. Mr. Haley had them +buried at his own expense. + +The skipper of the wrecked sloop, yesterday, was unwilling to go to +Portsmouth until he was shaved,--his beard being of several days' growth. +It seems to be the impulse of people under misfortune to put on their +best clothes, and attend to the decencies of life. + +The Fanny brought a passenger,--a thin, stiff, black-haired young man, +who enters his name as Mr. Tufts, from Charlestown. He, and a country +trader, his wife, sister, and two children (all of whom have been here +several days) are now the only guests besides myself. + + +September 12th.--The night set in sullen and gloomy, and morning has +dawned in pretty much the same way. The wind, however, seems rising +somewhat, and grumbles past the angle of the house. Perhaps we shall see +a storm yet from the eastward; and, having the whole sweep of the broad +Atlantic between here and Ireland, I do not see why it should not be +fully equal to a storm at sea. + +It has been raining more or less all the forenoon, and now, at twelve +o'clock, blows, as Mr. Laighton says, "half a gale" from the southeast. +Through the opening of our shallow valley, towards the east, there is the +prospect of a tumbling sea, with hundreds of white-caps chasing one +another over it. In front of the hotel, being to leeward, the water near +the shore is but slightly ruffled; but farther the sea is agitated, and +the surf breaks over Square Rock. All round the horizon, landward as +well as seaward, the view is shut in by a mist. Sometimes I have a dim +sense of the continent beyond, but no more distinct than the thought of +the other world to the unenlightened soul. The sheep bleat in their +desolate pasture. The wind shakes the house. A loon, seeking, I +suppose, some quieter resting-place than on the troubled waves, was seen +swimming just now in the cove not more than a hundred yards from the +hotel. Judging by the pother which this "half a gale" makes with the +sea, it must have been a terrific time, indeed, when that great wave +rushed and roared across the islands. + +Since dinner, I have been to the eastern shore to look at the sea. It is +a wild spectacle, but still, I suppose, lacks an infinite deal of being a +storm. Outside of this island there is a long and low one (or two in a +line), looking more like a reef of rocks than an island, and at the +distance of a mile or more. There the surf and spray break gallantly,-- +white-sheeted forms rising up all at once, and hovering a moment in the +air. Spots which, in calm times, are not discernible from the rest of +the ocean, now are converted into white, foamy breakers. The swell of +the waves against our shore makes a snowy depth, tinged with green, for +many feet back from the shore. The longer waves swell, overtop, and rush +upon the rocks; and, when they return, the waters pour back in a cascade. +Against the outer points of Smutty Nose and Star Island, there is a +higher surf than here; because, the wind being from the southeast, these +islands receive it first, and form a partial barrier in respect to this. +While I looked, there was moisture in the air, and occasional spats of +rain. The uneven places in the rocks were full of the fallen rain. + +It is quite impossible to give an idea of these rocky shores,--how +confusedly they are tossed together, lying in all directions; what solid +ledges, what great fragments thrown out from the rest. Often the rocks +are broken, square and angular, so as to form a kind of staircase; +though, for the most part, such as would require a giant stride to ascend +them. + +Sometimes a black trap-rock runs through the bed of granite; sometimes +the sea has eaten this away, leaving a long, irregular fissure. In some +places, owing to the same cause perhaps, there is a great hollow place +excavated into the ledge, and forming a harbor, into which the sea flows; +and, while there is foam and fury at the entrance, it is comparatively +calm within. Some parts of the crag are as much as fifty feet of +perpendicular height, down which you look over a bare and smooth descent, +at the base of which is a shaggy margin of sea-weed. But it is vain to +try to express this confusion. As much as anything else, it seems as if +some of the massive materials of the world remained superfluous, after +the Creator had finished, and were carelessly thrown down here, where the +millionth part of them emerge from the sea, and in the course of +thousands of years have become partially bestrewn with a little soil. + +The wind has changed to southwest, and blows pretty freshly. The sun +shone before it set; and the mist, which all day has overhung the land, +now takes the aspect of a cloud,--drawing a thin veil between us and the +shore, and rising above it. In our own atmosphere there is no fog nor +mist. + + +September 13th.--I spent last evening, as well as part of the evening +before, at Mr. Thaxter's. It is certainly a romantic incident to find +such a young man on this lonely island; his marriage with the pretty +Miranda is true romance. In our talk we have glanced over many matters, +and, among the rest, that of the stage, to prepare himself for which was +his first motive in coming hither. He appears quite to have given up any +dreams of that kind now. What he will do on returning to the world, as +his purpose is, I cannot imagine; but, no doubt, through all their +remaining life, both he and she will look back to this rocky ledge, with +its handful of soil, as to a Paradise. + +Last evening we (Mr., Mrs., and Miss Thaxter) sat and talked of ghosts +and kindred subjects; and they told me of the appearance of a little old +woman in a striped gown, that had come into that house a few months ago. +She was seen by nobody but an Irish nurse, who spoke to her, but received +no answer. The little woman drew her chair up towards the fire, and +stretched out her feet to warm them. By and by the nurse, who suspected +nothing of her ghostly character, went to get a pail of water; and, when +she came back, the little woman was not there. It being known precisely +how many and what people were on the island, and that no such little +woman was among them, the fact of her being a ghost is incontestable. I +taught them how to discover the hidden sentiments of letters by +suspending a gold ring over them. Ordinarily, since I have been here, we +have spent the evening under the piazza, where Mr. Laighton sits to take +the air. He seems to avoid the within-doors whenever he can. So there +he sits in the sea-breezes, when inland people are probably drawing their +chairs to the fireside; and there I sit with him,--not keeping up a +continual flow of talk, but each speaking as any wisdom happens to come +into his mind. + +The wind, this morning, is from the northwestward, rather brisk, but not +very strong. There is a scattering of clouds about the sky; but the +atmosphere is singularly clear, and we can see several hills of the +interior, the cloud-like White Mountains, and, along the shore, the long +white beaches and the dotted dwellings, with great distinctness. Many +small vessels spread their wings, and go seaward. + +I have been rambling over the southern part of the island, and looking at +the traces of habitations there. There are several enclosures,--the +largest perhaps thirty yards square,--surrounded with a rough stonewall +of very mossy antiquity, built originally broad and strong, two or three +large stones in width, and piled up breast-high or more, and taking +advantage of the extending ledge to make it higher. Within this +enclosure there is almost a clear space of soil, which was formerly, no +doubt, cultivated as a garden, but is now close cropt by the sheep and +cattle, except where it produces thistles, or the poisonous weed called +mercury, which seems to love these old walls, and to root itself in or +near them. These walls are truly venerable, gray, and mossy; and you see +at once that the hands that piled the stones must have been long ago +turned to dust. Close by the enclosure is the hollow of an old cellar, +with rocks tumbled into it, but the layers of stone at the side still to +be traced, and bricks, broken or with rounded edges, scattered about, and +perhaps pieces of lime; and weeds and grass growing about the whole. +Several such sites of former human homes may be seen there, none of which +can possibly be later than the Revolution, and probably they are as old +as the settlement of the island. The site has Smutty Nose and Star +opposite, with a road (that is, a water-road) between, varying from half +a mile to a mile. Duck Island is also seen on the left; and, on the +right, the shore of the mainland. Behind, the rising ground intercepts +the view. Smith's monument is visible. I do not see where the +inhabitants could have kept their boats, unless in the chasms worn by the +sea into the rocks. + +One of these chasms has a spring of fresh water in the gravelly base, +down to which the sea has worn out. The chasm has perpendicular, though +irregular, sides, which the waves have chiselled out very square. Its +width varies from ten to twenty feet, widest towards the sea; and on the +shelves, up and down the sides, some soil has been here and there +accumulated, on which grow grass and wild-flowers,--such as golden-rod, +now in bloom, and raspberry-bushes, the fruit of which I found ripe,--the +whole making large parts of the sides of the chasm green, its verdure +overhanging the strip of sea that dashes and foams into the hollow. +Sea-weed, besides what grows upon and shags the submerged rocks, is +tossed into the harbor, together with stray pieces of wood, chips, +barrel-staves, or (as to-day) an entire barrel, or whatever else the sea +happens to have on hand. The water rakes to and fro over the pebbles at +the bottom of the chasm, drawing back, and leaving much of it bare, then +rushing up, with more or less of foam and fury, according to the force +and direction of the wind; though, owing to the protection of the +adjacent islands, it can never have a gale blowing right into its mouth. +The spring is situated so far down the chasm, that, at half or two-thirds +tide, it is covered by the sea. Twenty minutes after the retiring of the +tide suffices to restore to it its wonted freshness. + +In another chasm, very much like the one here described, I saw a niche in +the rock, about tall enough for a person of moderate stature to stand +upright. It had a triangular floor and a top, and was just the place to +hold the rudest statue that ever a savage made. + +Many of the ledges on the island have yellow moss or lichens spread on +them in large patches. The moss of those stone walls does really look +very old. + +"Old Bab," the ghost, has a ring round his neck, and is supposed either +to have been hung or to have had his throat cut, but he steadfastly +declines telling the mode of his death. There is a luminous appearance +about him as he walks, and his face is pale and very dreadful. + +The Fanny arrived this forenoon, and sailed again before dinner. She +brought, as passenger, a Mr. Balch, brother to the country trader who has +been spending a few days here. On her return, she has swept the islands +of all the non-residents except myself. The wind being ahead, and pretty +strong, she will have to beat up, and the voyage will be anything but +agreeable. The spray flew before her bows, and doubtless gave the +passengers all a thorough wetting within the first half-hour. + +The view of Star Island or Gosport from the north is picturesque,--the +village, or group of houses, being gathered pretty closely together in +the centre of the island, with some green about them; and above all the +other edifices, wholly displayed, stands the little stone church, with +its tower and belfry. On the right is White Island, with the lighthouse; +to the right of that, and a little to the northward, Londoner's Rock, +where, perhaps, of old, some London ship was wrecked. To the left of +Star Island, and nearer Hog, or Appledore, is Smutty Nose. Pour the blue +sea about these islets, and let the surf whiten and steal up from their +points, and from the reefs about them (which latter whiten for an +instant, and then are lost in the whelming and eddying depths), the +northwest-wind the while raising thousands of white-caps, and the evening +sun shining solemnly over the expanse,--and it is a stern and lovely +scene. + +The valleys that intersect, or partially intersect, the island are a +remarkable feature. They appear to be of the same formation as the +fissures in the rocks, but, as they extend farther from the sea, they +accumulate a little soil along the irregular sides, and so become green +and shagged with bushes, though with the rock everywhere thrusting itself +through. The old people of the isles say that their fathers could +remember when the sea, at high tide, flowed quite through the valley in +which the hotel stands, and that boats used to pass. Afterwards it was a +standing pond; then a morass, with cat-tail flags growing in it. It has +filled up, so far as it is filled, by the soil being washed down from the +higher ground on each side. The storms, meanwhile, have tossed up the +shingle and paving-stones at each end of the valley, so as to form a +barrier against the passage of any but such mighty waves as that which +thundered through a year or two ago. + +The old inhabitants lived in the centre or towards the south of the +island, and avoided the north and east because the latter were so much +bleaker in winter. They could moor their boats in the road, between +Smutty Nose and Hog, but could not draw them up. Mr. Laighton found +traces of old dwellings in the vicinity of the hotel, and it is supposed +that the principal part of the population was on this island. I spent +the evening at Mr. Thaxter's, and we drank a glass of his 1820 Scheidam. +The northwest-wind was high at ten o'clock, when I came home, the tide +full, and the murmur of the waves broad and deep. + + +September 14th.--Another of the brightest of sunny mornings. The wind is +not nearly so high as last night, but it is apparently still from the +northwest, and serves to make the sea look very blue and cold. The +atmosphere is so transparent that objects seem perfectly distinct along +the mainland. To-day I must be in Portsmouth; to-morrow, at home. A +brisk west, or northwest wind, making the sea so blue, gives a very +distinct outline in its junction with the sky. + + +September 16th.--On Tuesday, the 14th, there was no opportunity to get to +the mainland. Yesterday morning opened with a southeast rain, which +continued all day. The Fanny arrived in the forenoon, with some coal for +Mr. Laighton, and sailed again before dinner, taking two of the maids of +the house; but as it rained pouring, and as I could not, at any rate, +have got home to-night, there would have been no sense in my going. It +began to clear up in the decline of the day; the sun shot forth some +golden arrows a little before his setting; and the sky was perfectly +clear when I went to bed, after spending the evening at Mr. Thaxter's. +This morning is clear and bright; but the wind is northwest, making the +sea look blue and cold, with little breaks of white foam. It is +unfavorable for a trip to the mainland; but doubtless I shall find an +opportunity of getting ashore before night. + +The highest part of Appledore is about eighty feet above the sea. Mr. +Laighton has seen whales off the island,--both on the eastern side and +between it and the mainland; once a great crowd of them, as many as +fifty. They were drawn in by pursuing their food,--a small fish called +herring-bait, which came ashore in such abundance that Mr. Laighton +dipped up basketfuls of them. No attempt was made to take the whales. + +There are vague traditions of trees on these islands. One of them, Cedar +Island, is said to have been named from the trees that grew on it. The +matter appears improbable, though, Mr. Thaxter says, large quantities of +soil are annually washed into the sea; so that the islands may have been +better clad with earth and its productions than now. + +Mrs. Thaxter tells me that there are several burial-places on this +island; but nobody has been buried here since the Revolution. Her own +marriage was the first one since that epoch, and her little Karl, now +three months old, the first-born child in all those eighty years. + +[Then follow extracts from the Church Records of Gosport.] + +This book of the church records of Gosport is a small folio, well bound +in dark calf, and about an inch thick; the paper very stout, with a +water-mark of an armed man in a sitting posture, holding a spear . . . . +over a lion, who brandishes a sword; on alternate pages the Crown, and +beneath it the letters G. R. The motto of the former device Pro Patria. +The book is written in a very legible hand, probably by the Rev. Mr. +Tucke. The ink is not much faded. + + +Concord, March 9th, 1853.--Finished, this day, the last story of +Tanglewood Tales. They were written in the following order. + +The Pomegranate Seeds. +The Minotaur. +The Golden Fleece. +The Dragons' Teeth. +Circe's Palace. +The Pygmies. + +The introduction is yet to be written. Wrote it 13th March. I went to +Washington (my first visit) on 14th April. + +Caresses, expressions of one sort or another, are necessary to the life +of the affections, as leaves are to the life of a tree. If they are +wholly restrained, love will die at the roots. + + +June 9th.--Cleaning the attic to-day, here at the Wayside, the woman +found an immense snake, flat and outrageously fierce, thrusting out its +tongue. Ellen, the cook, killed it. She called it an adder, but it +appears to have been a striped snake. It seems a fiend, haunting the +house. On further inquiry, the snake is described as plaided with brown +and black. + +Cupid in these latter times has probably laid aside his bow and arrows, +and uses fire-arms,--a pistol,--perhaps a revolver. + +I burned great heaps of old letters and other papers, a little while ago, +preparatory to going to England. Among them were hundreds of ------'s +letters. The world has no more such, and now they are all dust and +ashes. What a trustful guardian of secret matters is fire! What should +we do without fire and death? + + +END OF VOL. II + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Passages From The American Notebooks, +Volume 2., by Nathaniel Hawthorne + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AMERICAN NOTEBOOKS, V2 *** + +This file should be named amnt210.txt or amnt210.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, amnt211.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, amnt210a.txt + +Produced by Tapio Riikonen and David Widger <widger@cecomet.net> + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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