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Powell</title> + +<style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .75em; margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-align: justify; font-size: 80%; font-style: italic;} + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + .xx-small {font-size: 60%;} + .x-small {font-size: 75%;} + .small {font-size: 85%;} + .large {font-size: 115%;} + .x-large {font-size: 130%;} + .indent5 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent10 { margin-left: 10%;} + .indent15 { margin-left: 15%;} + .indent20 { margin-left: 20%;} + .indent25 { margin-left: 25%;} + .indent30 { margin-left: 30%;} + .indent35 { margin-left: 35%;} + .indent40 { margin-left: 40%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; right: 1%; font-size: 0.6em; + font-variant: normal; font-style: normal; + text-align: right; background-color: #FFFACD; + border: 1px solid; padding: 0.3em;text-indent: 0em;} + .side { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 15%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + .head { float: left; font-size: 90%; width: 98%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0} + span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 0.8 } + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Canyons of the Colorado, by J. W. Powell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Canyons of the Colorado + +Author: J. W. Powell + +Release Date: May, 2005 [EBook #8082] +Last Updated: May 1, 2023 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding:UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CANYONS OF THE COLORADO *** + + + + +Produced by Eric Eldred, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <h1> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + BY J. W. POWELL, PH.D., LL.D., + </h2> +<div class="fig" style="width:70%;"> + <img src="images/powell.jpg" alt="powell.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + + <p> + <i>Formerly Director of the United States Geological Survey. Member of the + National Academy of Sciences, etc., etc.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS.</i> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + First published 1895 <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + PREFACE. + </h2> + <p> + On my return from the first exploration of the canyons of the Colorado, I + found that our journey had been the theme of much newspaper writing. A + story of disaster had been circulated, with many particulars of hardship + and tragedy, so that it was currently believed throughout the United + States that all the members of the party were lost save one. A good friend + of mine had gathered a great number of obituary notices, and it was + interesting and rather flattering to me to discover the high esteem in + which I had been held by the people of the United States. In my supposed + death I had attained to a glory which I fear my continued life has not + fully vindicated. + </p> + <p> + The exploration was not made for adventure, but purely for scientific + purposes, geographic and geologic, and I had no intention of writing an + account of it, but only of recording the scientific results. Immediately + on my return I was interviewed a number of times, and these interviews + were published in the daily press; and here I supposed all interest in the + exploration ended. But in 1874 the editors of Scribner's Monthly requested + me to publish a popular account of the Colorado exploration in that + journal. To this I acceded and prepared four short articles, which were + elaborately illustrated from photographs in my possession. + </p> + <p> + In the same year--1874--at the instance of Professor Henry of the + Smithsonian Institution, I was called before an appropriations committee + of the House of Representatives to explain certain estimates made by the + Professor for funds to continue scientific work which had been in progress + from the date of the original exploration. Mr. Garfield was chairman of + the committee, and after listening to my + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + IV PREFACE. + </p> + <p> + account of the progress of the geographic and geologic work, he asked me + why no history of the original exploration of the canyons had been + published. I informed him that I had no interest in that work as an + adventure, but was interested only in the scientific results, and that + these results had in part been published and in part were in course of + publication. Thereupon Mr. Garfield, in a pleasant manner, insisted that + the history of the exploration should be published by the government, and + that I must understand that my scientific work would be continued by + additional appropriations only upon my promise that I would publish an + account of the exploration. I made the promise, and the task was + immediately undertaken. + </p> + <p> + My daily journal had been kept on long and narrow strips of brown paper, + which were gathered into little volumes that were bound in sole leather in + camp as they were completed. After some deliberation I decided to publish + this journal, with only such emendations and corrections as its hasty + writing in camp necessitated. It chanced that the journal was written in + the present tense, so that the first account of my trip appeared in that + tense. The journal thus published was not a lengthy paper, constituting + but a part of a report entitled "Exploration of the Colorado River of the + West and its Tributaries. Explored in 1869, 1870, 1871, and 1872, under + the direction of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution." The other + papers published with it relate to the geography, geology, and natural + history of the country. And here again I supposed all account of the + exploration ended. But from that time until the present I have received + many letters urging that a popular account of the exploration and a + description of that wonderful land should be published by me. This call + has been voiced occasionally in the daily press and sometimes in the + magazines, until at last I have concluded to publish a fuller account in + popular form. In doing this I have revised and enlarged the original + journal of exploration, and have added several new chapters descriptive of + the region and of the people who inhabit it. Realizing the difficulty of + painting in word colors a land so strange, so wonderful, and so vast in + its features, in the weakness of my descriptive powers I have sought + refuge in graphic illustration, and for this purpose have gathered from + the magazines and from various scien- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + PREFACE. V + </p> + <p> + tific reports an abundance of material. All of this illustrative material + originated in my work, but it has already been used elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + Many years have passed since the exploration, and those who were boys with + me in the enterprise are--ah, most of them are dead, and the living are + gray with age. Their bronzed, hardy, brave faces come before me as they + appeared in the vigor of life; their lithe but powerful forms seem to move + around me; and the memory of the men and their heroic deeds, the men and + their generous acts, overwhelms me with a joy that seems almost a grief, + for it starts a fountain of tears. I was a maimed man; my right arm was + gone; and these brave men, these good men, never forgot it. In every + danger my safety was their first care, and in every waking hour some kind + service was rendered me, and they transfigured my misfortune into a boon. + </p> + <p> + To you--J. C. Sumner, William H. Dunn, W. H. Powell, G. Y. Bradley, O. G. + Howland, Seneca Howland, Frank Goodman, W. E. Hawkins, and Andrew Hall--my + noble and generous companions, dead and alive, I dedicate this book. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + CONTENTS. + </h2> + <p> + CHAPTER PAGE + </p> + <p> + I. <i>The Valley of the Colorado</i> ..<a href="#link17">17</a> + </p> + <p> + II. <i>Mesas and, Buttes . . . .</i> <a href="#link39">39</a> + </p> + <p> + III. <i>Mountains and Plateaus</i> ...<a href="#link67">67</a> + </p> + <p> + IV. <i>Cliffs and Terraces</i> ....<a href="#link89">89</a> + </p> + <p> + V. <i>From Green River City to Flaming Gorge .</i> <a href="#link117">117</a> + </p> + <p> + VI. <i>From Flaming Gorge to the Gate of Lodore</i> . . <a href="#link133">133</a> + </p> + <p> + VII. <i>The Canyon of Lodore</i> ...<a href="#link151">151</a> + </p> + <p> + VIII. <i>From Echo Park to the Mouth of the Uinta River .</i><a + href="#link167">167</a> + </p> + <p> + IX. <i>From the Mouth of the Uinta River to the Junction of the</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Grand and Green .</i> ...<a href="#link189">189</a> + </p> + <p> + X. <i>From the Junction of the Grand and Green to the Mouth</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>of the Little Colorado ......</i><a href="#link211">211</a> + </p> + <p> + XI. <i>From the Little Colorado to the Foot of the Grand Canyon</i><a + href="#link247">247</a> + </p> + <p> + XII. <i>The Rio Virgen and the Uinkaret Mountains . .</i><a href="#link289">289</a> + </p> + <p> + XIII. <i>Over the River</i> ....<a href="#link327">327</a> + </p> + <p> + XIV. <i>To Zuñi</i> ......<a href="#link351">351</a> + </p> + <p> + XV. <i>The Grand Canyon</i> ....<a href="#link379">379</a> + </p> + <p> + <i>Index</i> .......<a href="#link399">399</a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + </h2> + <p> + Portrait of the Author ....... <i>Frontispiece [missing]</i> + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + The Colorado River ......<a href="#link16">16</a> + </p> + <p> + Parunuweap Canyon .....<a href="#link18">18</a> + </p> + <p> + Bird's-eye View of the Cliffs ....<a href="#link19">19</a> + </p> + <p> + San Francisco Peak .....<a href="#link21">21</a> + </p> + <p> + Cliff near Fort Wingate .....<a href="#link22">22</a> + </p> + <p> + Scenery on the High Plateaus ...<a href="#link23">23</a> + </p> + <p> + The Mogollon Escarpment ....<a href="#link25">25</a> + </p> + <p> + Snow-clad Mountains on the River ..<a href="#link26">26</a> + </p> + <p> + Our Messenger ......<a href="#link28">28</a> + </p> + <p> + Apache Basket ......<a href="#link29">29</a> + </p> + <p> + Our Messenger's Wife .....<a href="#link30">30</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins of Toyalone .....<a href="#link31">31</a> + </p> + <p> + A Zuñí Court .......<a href="#link33">33</a> + </p> + <p> + Adobe Church, Zuñi .....<a href="#link34">34</a> + </p> + <p> + The Site of Moenkopi . . . . . . . . 36 + </p> + <p> + Mountain of the Holy Cross ...<a href="#link38">38</a> + </p> + <p> + Wingate Cliff .......<a href="#link40">40</a> + </p> + <p> + Pyramid Butte near Fort Wingate ..<a href="#link41">41</a> + </p> + <p> + Zuñi Cliffs .......<a href="#link42">42</a> + </p> + <p> + Great Neck Nine Miles South of Salazar .<a href="#link43">43</a> + </p> + <p> + Cinder Cone and Neck, Northeast of Grant Station <a href="#link44">44</a> + </p> + <p> + Two Large Necks, the More Distant One being the Cabazon<a href="#link45">45</a> + </p> + <p> + Neck Six Miles Northeast of Juantafoya ..<a href="#link46">46</a> + </p> + <p> + A Group of Necks near Mount Taylor .<a href="#link47">47</a> + </p> + <p> + Panorama from the Edge of Mount Taylor Mesa <a href="#link48">48</a> + </p> + <p> + Panorama in the Valley of the Puerco .<a href="#link50">50</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins at the Head of McElmo Canyon . . . <a href="#link52">52</a> + </p> + <p> + A Navajo Hogan ......<a href="#link53">53</a> + </p> + <p> + An Ancient Coiled Vase from Tusayan ..<a href="#link54">54</a> + </p> + <p> + A Typical Cliff Dwelling ....<a href="#link56">56</a> + </p> + <p> + A Room in a Pueblo .....<a href="#link57">57</a> + </p> + <p> + A Navajo Ready for a Journey ...<a href="#link58">58</a> + </p> + <p> + A Navajo Boy .......<a href="#link59">59</a> + </p> + <p> + Gardens of Zuñi ......<a href="#link60">60</a> + </p> + <p> + A Tusayan Ladder ......<a href="#link61">61</a> + </p> + <p> + A Zuñi Stool ......<a href="#link61">61</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + X CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + A Tusayan Field Shelter .....<a href="#link62">62</a> + </p> + <p> + Another Tusayan Field Shelter ...<a href="#link63">63</a> + </p> + <p> + View of Hano, One of the Seven Pueblos of Tusayan . <a href="#link64">64</a> + </p> + <p> + Mesa Verde . . . . ... . . between 64 and 65 + </p> + <p> + Mount Moran, Teton Range, Wyoming ..<a href="#link66">66</a> + </p> + <p> + Marble Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park <a href="#link69">69</a> + </p> + <p> + Terraced Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park <a href="#link70">70</a> + </p> + <p> + Tabernacle Crater and Lava Beds of the Basin Province <a href="#link73">73</a> + </p> + <p> + View on Great Salt Lake Desert, showing Mountains half buried by Lake + Sediments .....<a href="#link74">74</a> + </p> + <p> + An Indian Hunter ......<a href="#link76">76</a> + </p> + <p> + Reservoir Butte, showing Terraces of the Ancient Lake Bonneville + Shorelines . . . . . . . <a href="#link77">77</a> + </p> + <p> + Pavant Butte, over a Submarine Volcano of the Great Basin <a href="#link78">78</a> + </p> + <p> + An Indian Camp ......<a href="#link79">79</a> + </p> + <p> + Indians Gambling ......<a href="#link80">80</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruin near Moenkopi .....<a href="#link81">81</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins of Payupki, Six Miles Northwest of Mashongnavi, Tusayan .. 82 + </p> + <p> + Shupaulovi .......<a href="#link85">85</a> + </p> + <p> + General View of Zuñi, looking West ..<a href="#link86">86</a> + </p> + <p> + The Gray Cliffs ......<a href="#link88">88</a> + </p> + <p> + Section and Bird's-eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon + ......<a href="#link90">90</a> + </p> + <p> + A Group of Stone Corrals ....<a href="#link91">91</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins ........<a href="#link92">92</a> + </p> + <p> + Lagoon on the Kaibab .....<a href="#link95">95</a> + </p> + <p> + Pink Cliffs, Paunsagunt Plateau ...<a href="#link96">96</a> + </p> + <p> + A Permian Butte ......<a href="#link99">99</a> + </p> + <p> + Vermilion Cliffs at Kanab .....<a href="#link100">100</a> + </p> + <p> + A Midsummerday's Dream on the Colob .<a href="#link103">103</a> + </p> + <p> + An Indian Village ......<a href="#link104">104</a> + </p> + <p> + Antinaints, Putusiv, and Wichuts in Festal Dress . <a href="#link105">105</a> + </p> + <p> + Perspective View of Typical Solitary House .<a href="#link106">106</a> + </p> + <p> + Perspective View of Round-House Structure of Lava . <a href="#link107">107</a> + </p> + <p> + An Ancient Cliff House .....<a href="#link108">108</a> + </p> + <p> + A Zuñi Eagle Cage .....<a href="#link109">109</a> + </p> + <p> + A View of Zuñi ......<a href="#link110">110</a> + </p> + <p> + Walpi Dance Rock .....<a href="#link112">112</a> + </p> + <p> + A Passageway in Walpi .....<a href="#link114">114</a> + </p> + <p> + A Passageway in Mashongnavi ...<a href="#link115">115</a> + </p> + <p> + The Hurricane Fault ..... between <a href="#link114">114</a> and <a + href="#link115">115</a> + </p> + <p> + Temples and Towers of the Rio Virgen . between 114 and 115 + </p> + <p> + Towers of the Vermilion Cliffs .... between <a href="#link114">114</a> and + <a href="#link115">115</a> + </p> + <p> + Panorama ....... between <a href="#link114">114</a> and <a href="#link115">115</a> + </p> + <p> + Terraced Houses in Zuñi .....<a href="#link116">116</a> + </p> + <p> + The Start from Green River Station ..<a href="#link118">118</a> + </p> + <p> + View in Sichumovi ......<a href="#link121">121</a> + </p> + <p> + Trail up Walpi Mesa .....<a href="#link122">122</a> + </p> + <p> + Ridges on Bitter Creek .....<a href="#link123">123</a> + </p> + <p> + Mesas ........<a href="#link124">124</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + A Valley West of Green River ...<a href="#link125">125</a> + </p> + <p> + Alcove Lands ......<a href="#link126">126</a> + </p> + <p> + Bad Lands . . . . . . . . . . <a href="#link127">127</a> + </p> + <p> + Our Indian Guide .....<a href="#link128">128</a> + </p> + <p> + Our Guide's Boy ......<a href="#link129">129</a> + </p> + <p> + Green River Plains .....<a href="#link130">130</a> + </p> + <p> + The Chief Kiva of Shupaulovi . . . . . . <a href="#link131">131</a> + </p> + <p> + Walpi .........<a href="#link132">132</a> + </p> + <p> + Camp at Flaming Gorge . . . . . . . <a href="#link134">134</a> + </p> + <p> + Mashongnavi, with Shupaulovi in the Distance . . <a href="#link135">135</a> + </p> + <p> + Horseshoe Canyon ......<a href="#link136">136</a> + </p> + <p> + Scene in Hano ......<a href="#link139">139</a> + </p> + <p> + Pescado Pueblo, Outside Steps ....<a href="#link140">140</a> + </p> + <p> + Oven near Pescado Pueblo ....<a href="#link141">141</a> + </p> + <p> + Primitive Andiron in Shumopavi ...<a href="#link142">142</a> + </p> + <p> + Tusayan Mealing-Stones ....<a href="#link143">143</a> + </p> + <p> + Kiva and Stone Corrals of Mashongnavi ..<a href="#link144">144</a> + </p> + <p> + "Hogbacks" with Intervening Valleys .<a href="#link146">146</a> + </p> + <p> + An Ancient Pueblo Metate ....<a href="#link148">148</a> + </p> + <p> + The Home of the Chief ....<a href="#link150">150</a> + </p> + <p> + Gate of Lodore .......<a href="#link153">153</a> + </p> + <p> + Wreck at Disaster Falls . . . . . . <a href="#link155">155</a> + </p> + <p> + Metalliferous Veins exposed to View ..<a href="#link156">156</a> + </p> + <p> + Winnie's Grotto, a Side Canyon ...<a href="#link159">159</a> + </p> + <p> + Eroded Towers capped with Large Blocks of Sandstone . <a href="#link161">161</a> + </p> + <p> + Fire in Camp ......<a href="#link162">162</a> + </p> + <p> + An Isolated House at Zuñi ....<a href="#link164">164</a> + </p> + <p> + An Oraibi Court ......<a href="#link166">166</a> + </p> + <p> + The Rescue . . . . . . . . . ...169 + </p> + <p> + Echo Park .......<a href="#link170">170</a> + </p> + <p> + Fragment of Wall, Zuñi .....<a href="#link171">171</a> + </p> + <p> + Kivas of Shumopavi .....<a href="#link172">172</a> + </p> + <p> + General View of Awatubi . . . . . . . <a href="#link173">173</a> + </p> + <p> + Swallow Cave . . . . . . . . <a href="#link175">175</a> + </p> + <p> + View of Shumopavi . . . . . . . . <a href="#link177">177</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins .......<a href="#link178">178</a>, <a href="#link179">179</a> + </p> + <p> + Indian Lodge in the Uinta Valley ...<a href="#link181">181</a> + </p> + <p> + Warrior and Bride .....<a href="#link183">183</a> + </p> + <p> + Our Interpreter and His Family ...<a href="#link185">185</a> + </p> + <p> + House Building at Oraibi ....<a href="#link186">186</a> + </p> + <p> + General View of Ojo Caliente ....<a href="#link188">188</a> + </p> + <p> + Sumner's Amphitheater ....<a href="#link190">190</a> + </p> + <p> + Chimneys and Roofs, Zuñi ....<a href="#link193">193</a> + </p> + <p> + A Tusayan Interior .....<a href="#link194">194</a> + </p> + <p> + Lighthouse Rock, Canyon of Desolation ..<a href="#link197">197</a> + </p> + <p> + Gunnison Butte, Gray Canyon ...<a href="#link199">199</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins of Ketchipauau .....<a href="#link201">201</a> + </p> + <p> + Bird's-eye View of the Land of the Standing Rocks . <a href="#link202">202</a> + </p> + <p> + The Butte of the Cross .....<a href="#link204">204</a> + </p> + <p> + Land of the Standing Rocks . . . . <a href="#link205">205</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + XII + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + Moenkopi .......<a href="#link207">207</a> + </p> + <p> + Oraibi Houses .......<a href="#link208">208</a> + </p> + <p> + The Heart of Marble Canyon ...<a href="#link210">210</a> + </p> + <p> + A Lateral Canyon. ......<a href="#link213">213</a> + </p> + <p> + A Tusayan Mealing Trough. ...<a href="#link215">215</a> + </p> + <p> + The Heart of Cataract Canyon . . . . . <a href="#link217">217</a> + </p> + <p> + Water Basin in Gypsum Canyon ...<a href="#link219">219</a> + </p> + <p> + The Water Pocket Canyon ....<a href="#link221">221</a> + </p> + <p> + Plan of the Ruin of Kiu-Tiel, near Tusayau . . <a href="#link222">222</a> + </p> + <p> + Pescado Houses .......<a href="#link225">225</a> + </p> + <p> + Repairing Boats at the Mouth of Dirty Devil River . <a href="#link226">226</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins on the Brink of Glen Canyon ..<a href="#link228">228</a> + </p> + <p> + Island Monument iu Glen Canyon ...<a href="#link231">231</a> + </p> + <p> + Glen Canyon .......<a href="#link232">232</a> + </p> + <p> + An Enclosing Wall of Upright Stones at Ojo Caliente <a href="#link235">235</a> + </p> + <p> + Marble Canyon .......<a href="#link236">236</a> + </p> + <p> + Noonday Rest in Marble Canyon ..<a href="#link239">239</a> + </p> + <p> + View of Marble Canyon from Vermilion Cliffs . . <a href="#link240">240</a> + </p> + <p> + Adobe Walls, Zuñi .....<a href="#link243">243</a> + </p> + <p> + At the Mouth of the Little Colorado ..<a href="#link246">246</a> + </p> + <p> + Walls of Gneiss ......<a href="#link249">249</a> + </p> + <p> + Running a Rapid ......<a href="#link250">250</a> + </p> + <p> + Head of the Grand Canyon ....<a href="#link252">252</a> + </p> + <p> + The Inner Gorge ......<a href="#link254">254</a> + </p> + <p> + Signal of Discovery or Alarm . . . . . <a href="#link257">257</a> + </p> + <p> + Signal, "Who are you?" Answer, "Pani" . . . ...258 + </p> + <p> + Signal of Successful War Party ...<a href="#link261">261</a> + </p> + <p> + A Signal of Peace ......<a href="#link262">262</a> + </p> + <p> + Moki Method of Dressing the Hair ..<a href="#link265">265</a> + </p> + <p> + Moki Method of Spinning ....<a href="#link266">266</a> + </p> + <p> + An Alcove in the Red Wall ...<a href="#link269">269</a> + </p> + <p> + Kanab Canyon, near the Junction ...<a href="#link270">270</a> + </p> + <p> + Kanab Canyon in the Red Wall Limestone . . <a href="#link273">273</a> + </p> + <p> + The Brink of the Inner Gorge ....<a href="#link275">275</a> + </p> + <p> + The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, showing Amphitheater and Sculptured + Buttes .....<a href="#link276">276</a> + </p> + <p> + Climbing the Grand Canyon Wall ..<a href="#link279">279</a> + </p> + <p> + Triangulation Station .....<a href="#link281">281</a> + </p> + <p> + Cavate Houses ......<a href="#link283">283</a> + </p> + <p> + Standing Rocks .......<a href="#link285">285</a> + </p> + <p> + Mount Trumbull, from Mount Logan ..<a href="#link288">288</a> + </p> + <p> + Mary's Veil, the Upper Fall on Pine Creek . . . <a href="#link290">290</a> + </p> + <p> + Filling's Cascade, the Lower Palls on Pine Creek . <a href="#link291">291</a> + </p> + <p> + Aboriginal Ladder . ... . . . . . <a href="#link292">292</a> + </p> + <p> + Another Style of Ladder ....<a href="#link293">293</a> + </p> + <p> + Entrance to Parunuweap .....<a href="#link295">295</a> + </p> + <p> + Towers on the Rio Virgen ....<a href="#link296">296</a> + </p> + <p> + Mukuntuweap Canyon . . . . . . . <a href="#link298">298</a> + </p> + <p> + The Witches' Water Pocket ....<a href="#link301">301</a> + </p> + <p> + Wunavai Gathering Seeds .....<a href="#link302">302</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Xlll + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + Terrace Fireplace and Chimney of Shumopavi . . <a href="#link305">305</a> + </p> + <p> + A Sweat House .......<a href="#link306">306</a> + </p> + <p> + An Interior Lodge ......<a href="#link309">309</a> + </p> + <p> + Halved and Pinned Trapdoor Frame of Zuñí Kiva . . <a + href="#link310">310</a> + </p> + <p> + Wooden Pivot Hinges of a Zuñi Door .<a href="#link310">310</a> + </p> + <p> + A Poultry House of Sichumovi resembling an Oven . <a href="#link312">312</a> + </p> + <p> + The Human Pickle .....<a href="#link314">314</a> + </p> + <p> + Recent Lava Flow on the Uinkaret . . . . . <a href="#link317">317</a> + </p> + <p> + A Zuñi Window glazed with Selenite ..<a href="#link318">318</a> + </p> + <p> + A Zuñi Chair .......<a href="#link319">319</a> + </p> + <p> + An Ancient Circular Doorway or "Stone Close" in Kin-Tiel <a href="#link320">320</a> + </p> + <p> + A Gaming Ring ......<a href="#link320">320</a> + </p> + <p> + Interior View of a Tusayan Kiva ..<a href="#link322">322</a> + </p> + <p> + Cave Lake in Kanab Canyon ....<a href="#link324">324</a> + </p> + <p> + Ancient Pottery from Tusayan ...<a href="#link326">326</a> + </p> + <p> + Tusayan Fetiches and Implements ...<a href="#link329">329</a> + </p> + <p> + Dance Paraphernalia from Tusayan ..<a href="#link332">332</a> + </p> + <p> + The Thousand Wells .....<a href="#link334">334</a> + </p> + <p> + Terraced Houses in Oraibi showing Entrance to Kiva in Foreground ........<a + href="#link335">335</a> + </p> + <p> + The House of Talti, Chief of the Council in the Town of Oraibi 337 + </p> + <p> + Praying for Rain ......<a href="#link339">339</a> + </p> + <p> + Mashongnavi .......<a href="#link340">340</a> + </p> + <p> + Tusayan Trays .......<a href="#link341">341</a> + </p> + <p> + Tusayan Maskettes .....<a href="#link343">343</a> + </p> + <p> + Sichumovi and Hano .....<a href="#link344">344</a> + </p> + <p> + Walpi, a Village of Tusayan ...<a href="#link346">346</a> + </p> + <p> + Tusayan Basketry ....<a href="#link330">330</a>, <a href="#link348">348</a>, + <a href="#link349">349</a> + </p> + <p> + Zuñi from Housetops, looking East ..<a href="#link350">350</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Indian with Silver Ornaments ..<a href="#link352">352</a> + </p> + <p> + Bringing down the Batten . . . . <a href="#link353">353</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Church, near Fort Wingate ...<a href="#link354">354</a> + </p> + <p> + Round Tower on a Rock ....<a href="#link355">355</a> + </p> + <p> + Toyalone, from the Top of a House in Zuñi .<a href="#link356">356</a> + </p> + <p> + Typical Terraced Communal Pueblo ..<a href="#link357">357</a> + </p> + <p> + Dancer holding up the Great Plumed Arrow .<a href="#link358">358</a> + </p> + <p> + Dancer "swallowing" the Great Plumed Arrow . <a href="#link359">359</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Woman weaving a Belt ...<a href="#link360">360</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Woman spinning ....<a href="#link361">361</a> + </p> + <p> + A Room in a Zuñi House ....<a href="#link362">362</a> + </p> + <p> + Ashtishkee, a Navajo Chief ....<a href="#link365">365</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the South . . <a href="#link366">366</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the East . . <a href="#link367">367</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Fire Dance ......<a href="#link368">368</a> + </p> + <p> + Workshop of Navajo Silversmith ...<a href="#link369">369</a> + </p> + <p> + Zuñi Woman weaving a Belt ....<a href="#link370">370</a> + </p> + <p> + Weaving of Diamond-shaped Diagonals .<a href="#link371">371</a> + </p> + <p> + Zuñi Fetiches .......<a href="#link372">372</a> + </p> + <p> + Effigy Pottery from Zuñi ....<a href="#link373">373</a> + </p> + <p> + Zuñi Pottery .......<a href="#link374">374</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + XIV CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + Zuñi Grails .......<a href="#link375">375</a> + </p> + <p> + Culinary Pottery from Zuñí . . . . . . <a href="#link376">376</a> + </p> + <p> + Navajo Fabrics ......<a href="#link377">377</a> + </p> + <p> + The Grand Canyon ......<a href="#link378">378</a> + </p> + <p> + A Gable with Pinnacles ....<a href="#link381">381</a> + </p> + <p> + Niches or Panels in the Red Wall Limestone .<a href="#link382">382</a> + </p> + <p> + Bounded Inward Curves and Projecting Cusps of the Walls ...384 + </p> + <p> + The Eastern Temple ......<a href="#link387">387</a> + </p> + <p> + The Western Temple .....<a href="#link388">388</a> + </p> + <p> + Granite Falls, Kaibab Division, Grand Canyon . . <a href="#link391">391</a> + </p> + <p> + Dikes in the Canyon Wall ....<a href="#link392">392</a> + </p> + <p> + Pinnacles of the Kaibab .....<a href="#link395">395</a> + </p> + <p> + Vishnu's Temple ......<a href="#link396">396</a> + </p> + <p> + Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking East, between <a + href="#link396">396</a> and ...397 + </p> + <p> + Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking West, between ...396 and + ...397 <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking South, between ...396 and + ...397 + </p> + <p> + Grand Canyon at the Foot of the Toroweap, looking East, between ...396 and + ...397 <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + The Great Unconformity at the Head of the Grand Canyon, between ...396 and + ...397 + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">16</span><a name="link16" id="link16"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:80%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-1.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-1.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE COLORADO RIVER. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">17</span><a name="link17" id="link17"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER I. + </p> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + THE Colorado River is formed by the junction of the Grand and Green. + </p> + <p> + The Grand River has its source in the Rocky Mountains, five or six miles + west of Long's Peak. A group of little alpine lakes, that receive their + waters directly from perpetual snowbanks, discharge into a common + reservoir known as Grand Lake, a beautiful sheet of water. Its quiet + surface reflects towering cliffs and crags of granite on its eastern + shore, and stately pines and firs stand on its western margin. + </p> + <p> + The Green River heads near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Mountains. + This river, like the Grand, has its sources in alpine lakes fed by + everlasting snows. Thousands of these little lakes, with deep, cold, + emerald waters, are embosomed among the crags of the Rocky Mountains. + These streams, born in the cold, gloomy solitudes of the upper mountain + region, have a strange, eventful history as they pass down through gorges, + tumbling in cascades and cataracts, until they reach the hot, arid plains + of the Lower Colorado, where the waters that were so clear above empty as + turbid floods into the Gulf of California. + </p> + <p> + The mouth of the Colorado is in latitude 31 degrees 53 minutes and + longitude 115 degrees. The source of the Grand River is in latitude 40 + degrees 17' and longitude 105 degrees 43' approximately. The source of the + Green River is in latitude 43 degrees 15' and longitude 109 degrees 54' + approximately. + </p> + <p> + The Green River is larger than the Grand and is the upper continuation of + the Colorado. Including this river, the whole length of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">18</span><a name="link18" id="link18"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-2.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-2.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PA-RÚ-NU-WEAP CANYON. + </p> + <p> + the stream is about 2,000 miles. The region of country drained by the + Colorado and its tributaries is about 800 miles in length and varies from + 300 to 500 miles in width, containing about 300,000 square miles, an area + larger than all the New England and Middle States with Maryland, Virginia + and West Virginia added, or nearly as large as Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, + Illinois, and Missouri combined. + </p> + <p> + There are two distinct portions of the basin of the Colorado, a desert + portion below and a plateau portion above. The lower third, or desert + portion of the basin, is but little above the level of the sea, though + here and there ranges of moun- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">19</span><a name="link19" id="link19"></a> + </p> + <p> + tains rise to an altitude of from 2,000 to 6,000 feet. This part of the + valley is bounded on the northeast by a line of cliffs, which present a + bold, often vertical step, hundreds or thousands of feet to the + table-lands above. On the California side a vast desert stretches + westward, past the head of the Gulf of California, nearly to the shore of + the Pacific. Between the desert and the sea a narrow belt of valley, hill, + and mountain of wonderful beauty is found. Over this coastal zone there + falls a balm distilled from the great ocean, as gentle showers and + refreshing dews bathe the land. When rains come the emerald hills laugh + with delight as bourgeoning bloom is spread in the sunlight. When the + rains have ceased all the verdure turns to gold. Then slowly the hills are + brinded + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-3.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-3.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE CLIFFS. + </p> + <p> + until the rains come again, when verdure and bloom again peer through the + tawny wreck of the last year's greenery. North of the Gulf of California + the desert is known as "Coahuila Valley," the most desolate region on the + continent. At one time in the geologic history of this country the Gulf of + California extended a long distance farther to the northwest, above the + point where the Colorado River now enters it; but this stream brought its + mud from the mountains and the hills above and poured it into the gulf and + gradually erected a vast dam across it, until the waters above were + separated from the waters below; then the Colorado cut a channel into the + lower gulf. The upper waters, being cut off from the sea, gradually + evaporated, and what is known as Coahuila Valley was the bottom of this + ancient upper gulf, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">20</span><a name="link20" id="link20"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + and thus the land is now below the level of the sea. Between Coahuila + Valley and the river there are many low, ashen-gray mountains standing in + short ranges. The rainfall is so little that no perennial streams are + formed. When a great rain comes it washes the mountain sides and gathers + on its way a deluge of sand, which it spreads over the plain below, for + the streams do not carry the sediment to the sea. So the mountains are + washed down and the valleys are filled. On the Arizona side of the river + desert plains are interrupted by desert mountains. Far to the eastward the + country rises until the Sierra Madre are reached in New Mexico, where + these mountains divide the waters of the Colorado from the Rio Grande del + Norte. Here in New Mexico the Gila River has its source. Some of its + tributaries rise in the mountains to the south, in the territory belonging + to the republic of Mexico, but the Gila gathers the greater part of its + waters from a great plateau on the northeast. Its sources are everywhere + in pine-clad mountains and plateaus, but all of the affluents quickly + descend into the desert valley below, through which the Gila winds its way + westward to the Colorado. In times of continued drought the bed of the + Gila is dry, but the region is subject to great and violent storms, and + floods roll down from the heights with marvelous precipitation, carrying + devastation on their way. Where the Colorado River forms the boundary + between California and Arizona it cuts through a number of volcanic rocks + by black, yawning canyons. Between these canyons the river has a low but + rather narrow flood plain, with cottonwood groves scattered here and + there, and a chaparral of mesquite bearing beans and thorns. Four hundred + miles above its mouth and more than two hundred miles above the Gila, the + Colorado has a second tributary--"Bill Williams' River" it is called by + excessive courtesy. It is but a muddy creek. Two hundred miles above this + the Rio Virgen joins the Colorado. This river heads in the Markagunt + Plateau and the Pine Valley Mountains of Utah. Its sources are 7,000 or + 8,000 feet above the sea, but from the beautiful course of the upper + region it soon drops into a great sandy valley below and becomes a river + of flowing sand. At ordinary stages it is very wide but very shallow, + rippling over the quicksands in tawny waves. On its way it cuts through + the Beaver Mountains by a weird canyon. On either side grease-wood plains + stretch far away, interrupted here and there by bad-land hills. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">21</span><a name="link21" id="link21"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-4.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-4.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SAN FRANCISCO PEAK. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">22</span><a name="link22" id="link22"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + The region of country lying on either side of the Colorado for six hundred + miles of its course above the gulf, stretching to Coahuila Valley below on + the west and to the highlands where the Gila heads on the east, is one of + singular characteristics. The plains and valleys are low, arid, hot, and + naked, and the volcanic mountains scattered here and there are lone and + desolate. During the long months the sun pours its heat upon the rocks and + sands, untempered by clouds above or forest shades beneath. The springs + are so few in number that their names are household words in every Indian + rancheria and every <span class="pagenum">23</span><a name="link23" + id="link23"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-5.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-5.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CLIFF NEAR FORT WINGATE. + </p> + <p> + settler's home; and there are no brooks, no creeks, and no rivers but the + trunk of the Colorado and the trunk of the Gila. The few plants are + strangers to the dwellers in the temperate zone. On the mountains a few + junipers and piñons are found, and cactuses, agave, and yuccas, + low, fleshy plants with bayonets and thorns. The landscape of vegetal life + is weird--no forests, no meadows, no green hills, no foliage, but clublike + stems of plants armed with stilettos. Many of the plants bear gorgeous + flowers. The birds are few, but often of rich plumage. Hooded + rattlesnakes, horned toads, and lizards crawl in the dust and among the + rocks. One of these lizards, the "Gila monster," is + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">23</span><a name="link23" id="link23_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-6.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-6.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SCENERY ON THE HIGH PLATEAUS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">24</span><a name="link24" id="link24"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + poisonous. Rarely antelopes are seen, but wolves, rabbits, and sundry + ground squirrels abound. + </p> + <p> + The desert valley of the Colorado, which has been described as distinct + from the plateau region above, is the home of many Indian tribes. Away up + at the sources of the Gila, where the pines and cedars stand and where + creeks and valleys are found, is a part of the Apache land. These tribes + extend far south into the republic of Mexico. The Apaches are intruders in + this country, having at some time, perhaps many centuries ago, migrated + from British America. They speak an Athapascan language. The Apaches and + Navajos are the American Bedouins. On their way from the far North they + left several colonies in Washington, Oregon, and California. They came to + the country on foot, but since the Spanish invasion they have become + skilled horsemen. They are wily warriors and implacable enemies, feared by + all other tribes. They are hunters, warriors, and priests, these + professions not yet being differentiated. The cliffs of the region have + many caves, in which these people perform their religious rites. The + Sierra Madre formerly supported abundant game, and the little Sonora deer + was common. Bears and mountain lions were once found in great numbers, and + they put the courage and prowess of the Apaches to a severe test. Huge + rattlesnakes are common, and the rattlesnake god is one of the deities of + the tribes. + </p> + <p> + In the valley of the Gila and on its tributaries from the northeast are + the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos. They are skilled agriculturists, + cultivating lands by irrigation. In the same region many ruined villages + are found. The dwellings of these towns in the valley were built chiefly + of grout, and the fragments of the ancient pueblos still remaining have + stood through centuries of storm. Other pueblos near the cliffs on the + northeast were built of stone. The people who occupied them cultivated the + soil by irrigation, and their hydraulic works were on an extensive scale. + They built canals scores of miles in length and built reservoirs to store + water. They were skilled workers in pottery. From the fibers of some of + the desert plants they made fabrics with which to clothe themselves, and + they cultivated cotton. They were deft artists in picture-writings, which + they etched on the rocks. Many interesting vestiges of their ancient art + remain, testifying to their skill as savage + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">25</span><a name="link25" id="link25"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-7.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-7.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE MOGOLLON ESCARPMENT. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">26</span><a name="link26" id="link26"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-8.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-8.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS ON THE RIVER. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">27</span><a name="link27" + id="link27"></a> + </p> + <p> + artisans. It seems probable that the Pimas, Maricopas, and Papagos are the + same people who built the pueblos and constructed the irrigation works; so + their traditions state. It is also handed down that the pueblos were + destroyed in wars with the Apaches. In these groves of the flood plain of + the Colorado the Mojave and Yuma Indians once had their homes. They caught + fish from the river and snared a few rabbits in the desert, but lived + mainly on mesquite beans, the hearts of yucca plants, and the fruits of + the cactus. They also gathered a harvest from the river reeds. To some + slight extent they cultivated the soil by rude irrigation and raised corn + and squashes. They lived almost naked, for the climate is warm and dry. + Sometimes a year passes without a drop of rain. Still farther to the north + the Chemehuevas lived, partly along the river and partly in the mountains + to the west, where a few springs are found. They belong to the great + Shoshonian family. On the Rio Virgen and in the mountains round about, a + confederacy of tribes speaking the Ute language and belonging to the + Shoshonian family have their homes. These people built their sheltering + homes of boughs and the bast of the juniper. In such shelters, they lived + in winter, but in summer they erected extensive booths of poles and + willows, sometimes large enough for the accommodation of a tribe of 100 or + 200 persons. A wide gap in culture separates the Pimas, Maricopas, and + Papagos from the Chemehuevas. The first were among the most advanced + tribes found in the United States; the last were among the very lowest; + they are the original "Digger" Indians, called so by all the other tribes, + but the name has gradually spread beyond its original denotation to many + tribes of Utah, Nevada, and California. + </p> + <p> + The low desert, with its desolate mountains, which has thus been described + is plainly separated from the upper region of plateau by the Mogollon + Escarpment, which, beginning in the Sierra Madre of New Mexico, extends + northwestward across the Colorado far into Utah, where it ends on the + margin of the Great Basin. The rise by this escarpment varies from 3,000 + to more than 4,000 feet. The step from the lowlands to the highlands which + is here called the Mogollon Escarpment is not a simple line of cliffs, but + is a complicated and irregular facade presented to the southwest. Its + different portions have been named by the people living below as distinct + mountains, as Shiwits Mountains, Mogollon + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">28</span><a name="link28" id="link28"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + Mountains, Piñal Mountains, Sierra Calitro, etc., but they all rise + to the summit of the same great plateau region. + </p> + <p> + The upper region, extending to the headwaters of the Grand and Green + Rivers, constitutes the great Plateau Province. These plateaus are drained + by the Colorado River and its tributaries; the eastern and + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-9.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-9.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OUR MESSENGER. + </p> + <p> + southern margin by the Rio Grande and its tributaries, and the western by + streams that flow into the Great Basin and are lost in the Great Salt Lake + and other bodies of water that have no drainage to the sea. The general + surface of this upper region is from 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea level, + though the channels of the streams are cut much lower. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">29</span><a name="link29" + id="link29"></a> + </p> + <p> + This high region, on the east, north, and west, is set with ranges of + snow-clad mountains attaining an altitude above the sea varying from 8,000 + to 14,000 feet. All winter long snow falls on its mountain-crested rim, + filling the gorges, half burying the forests, and covering the crags and + peaks with a mantle woven by the winds from the waves of the sea. When the + summer sun comes this snow melts and tumbles down the mountain sides in + millions of cascades. A million cascade brooks unite to form a thousand + torrent creeks; a thousand torrent creeks unite to form half a hundred + rivers beset with cataracts; half a hundred roaring rivers unite to form + the Colorado, which rolls, a mad, turbid stream, into the Gulf of + California. + </p> + <p> + Consider the action of one of these streams. Its source is in the + mountains, where the snows fall; its course, through the arid plains. Now, + if at the river's flood storms were falling on the plains, its channel + would be cut but little faster than the adjacent country would be washed, + and the general level would thus be preserved; but under the conditions + here mentioned, the river. continually deepens its beds; so all the + streams cut deeper and still deeper, until their banks are towering cliffs + of solid rock. These deep, narrow gorges are called canyons. + </p> + <p> + For more than a thousand miles along its course the Colorado has cut for + itself such a canyon; but at some few points where lateral streams join it + the canyon is broken, and these narrow, transverse valleys divide it into + a series of canyons. + </p> + <p> + The Virgen, Kanab, Paria, Escalante, Fremont, San Rafael, Price, and Uinta + on the west, the Grand, White, Yampa, San Juan, and Colorado Chiquito on + the east, have also cut for themselves such narrow winding gorges, or deep + canyons. Every river entering these has cut another canyon; every lateral + creek has cut a canyon; every brook runs in a canyon; every rill born of a + shower and born again of a shower and living only during these showers has + cut for itself a canyon<i>;</i> so that + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-10.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-10.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + APACHE BASKET + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">30</span><a name="link30" id="link30"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the whole upper portion of the basin of the Colorado is traversed by a + labyrinth of these deep gorges. + </p> + <p> + Owing to a great variety of geological conditions, these canyons differ + much in general aspect. The Rio Virgen, between Long Valley and the Mormon + town of Rockville, runs through Parunuweap Can- + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">31</span><a name="link31" id="link31"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-11.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-11.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OUR MESSENGER'S WIFE. + </p> + <p> + yon, which is often not more than 20 or 30 feet in width and is from 600 + to 1,500 feet deep. Away to the north the Yampa empties into the Green by + a canyon that I essayed to cross in the fall of 1868, but was baffled from + day to day, and the fourth day had nearly passed before I could find my + way down to the river. But thirty miles above its mouth this canyon ends, + and a narrow valley with a flood plain + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">31</span><a name="link31" id="link31_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-12.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-12.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS OF TOYALONE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">32</span><a name="link32" id="link32"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + is found. Still farther up the stream the river comes down through another + canyon, and beyond that a narrow valley is found, and its upper course is + now through a canyon and now through a valley. All these canyons are alike + changeable in their topographic characteristics. + </p> + <p> + The longest canyon through which the Colorado runs is that between the + mouth of the Colorado Chiquito and the Grand Wash, a distance of 217 1/2 + miles. But this is separated from another above, 65 1/2 miles in length, + only by the narrow canyon valley of the Colorado Chiquito. + </p> + <p> + All the scenic features of this canyon land are on a giant scale, strange + and weird. The streams run at depths almost inaccessible, lashing the + rocks which beset their channels, rolling in rapids and plunging in falls, + and making a wild music which but adds to the gloom of the solitude. The + little valleys nestling along the streams are diversified by bordering + willows, clumps of box elder, and small groves of cottonwood. + </p> + <p> + Low mesas, dry, treeless, stretch back from the brink of the canyon, often + showing smooth surfaces of naked, solid rock. In some places the country + rock is composed of marls, and here the surface is a bed of loose, + disintegrated material through which one walks as in a bed of ashes. Often + these marls are richly colored and variegated. In other places the country + rock is a loose sandstone, the disintegration of which has left broad + stretches of drifting sand, white, golden, and vermilion. Where this + sandstone is a conglomerate, a paving of pebbles has been left,--a mosaic + of many colors, polished by the drifting sands and glistening in the + sunlight. + </p> + <p> + After the canyons, the most remarkable features of the country are the + long lines of cliffs. These are bold escarpments scores or hundreds of + miles in length,--great geographic steps, often hundreds or thousands of + feet in altitude, presenting steep faces of rock, often vertical. Having + climbed one of these steps, you may descend by a gentle, sometimes + imperceptible, slope to the foot of another. They thus present a series of + terraces, the steps of which are well-defined escarpments of rock. The + lateral extension of such a line of cliffs is usually very irregular; + sharp salients are projected on the plains below, and deep recesses are + cut into the terraces above. Intermittent streams coming + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">33</span><a name="link33" id="link33"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-13.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-13.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑI COURT. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">34</span><a name="link34" id="link34"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-14.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-14.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ADOBE CHURCH--ZUÑI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">35</span><a name="link35" + id="link35"></a> + </p> + <p> + down the cliffs have cut many canyons or canyon valleys, by which the + traveler may pass from the plain below to the terrace above. By these + gigantic stairways he may ascend to high plateaus, covered with forests of + pine and fir. + </p> + <p> + The region is further diversified by short ranges of eruptive mountains. A + vast system of fissures--huge cracks in the rocks to the depths + below--extends across the country. From these crevices floods of lava have + poured, covering mesas and table-lands with sheets of black basalt. The + expiring energies of these volcanic agencies have piled up huge cinder + cones that stand along the fissures, red, brown, and black, naked of + vegetation, and conspicuous landmarks, set as they are in contrast to the + bright, variegated rocks of sedimentary origin. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">36</span><a name="link36" id="link36"></a> These + canyon gorges, obstructing cliffs, and desert wastes have prevented the + traveler from penetrating the country, so that until the Colorado River + Exploring Expedition was organized it was almost unknown. In the early + history of the country Spanish adventurers penetrated the region and told + marvelous stories of its wonders. It was also traversed by priests who + sought to convert the Indian tribes to Christianity. In later days, since + the region has been under the control of the United States, various + government expeditions have penetrated the land. Yet enough had been seen + in the earlier days to foment rumor, and many wonderful stories were told + in the hunter's cabin and the prospector's camp--stories of parties + entering the gorge in boats and being carried down with fearful velocity + into whirlpools where all were overwhelmed in the abyss of waters, and + stories of underground passages for the great river into which boats had + passed never to be seen again. It was currently believed that the river + was lost under the rocks for several hundred miles. There were other + accounts of great falls whose roaring music could be heard on the distant + mountain summits; and there were stories current of parties wandering on + the brink of the canyon and vainly endeavoring to reach the waters below, + and perishing with thirst at last in sight of the river which was roaring + its mockery into their dying ears. + </p> + <p> + The Indians, too, have woven the mysteries of the canyons into the myths + of their religion. Long ago there was a great and wise chief who mourned + the death of his wife and would not be comforted, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">36</span><a name="link36" id="link36_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-15.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-15.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE SITE OF MOENKOPI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE VALLEY OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">37</span><a name="link37" id="link37"></a> + </p> + <p> + until Tavwoats, one of the Indian gods, came to him and told him his wife + was in a happier land, and offered to take him there that he might see for + himself, if, upon his return, he would cease to mourn. The great chief + promised. Then Tavwoats made a trail through the mountains that intervene + between that beautiful land, the balmy region of the great west, and this, + the desert home of the poor Numa. This trail was the canyon gorge of the + Colorado. Through it he led him; and when they had returned the deity + exacted from the chief a promise that he would tell no one of the trail. + Then he rolled a river into the gorge, a mad, raging stream, that should + engulf any that might attempt to enter thereby. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">38</span><a name="link38" id="link38"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-16.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-16.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">39</span><a name="link39" id="link39"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER II. + </p> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + FROM the Grand Canyon of the Colorado a great plateau extends + southeastward through Arizona nearly to the line of New Mexico, where this + elevated land merges into the Sierra Madre. The general surface of this + plateau is from 6,000 to 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is + sharply defined from the lowlands of Arizona by the Mogollon Escarpment. + On the northeast it gradually falls off into the valley of the Little + Colorado, and on the north it terminates abruptly in the Grand Canyon. + </p> + <p> + Various tributaries of the Gila have their sources in this escarpment, and + before entering the desolate valley below they run in beautiful canyons + which they have carved for themselves in the margin of the plateau. + Sometimes these canyons are in the sandstones and limestones which + constitute the platform of the great elevated region called the San + Francisco Plateau. The escarpment is caused by a fault, the great block of + the upper side being lifted several thousand feet above the valley region. + Through the fissure lavas poured out, and in many places the escarpment is + concealed by sheets of lava. The canyons in these lava beds are often of + great interest. + </p> + <p> + On the plateau a number of volcanic mountains are found, and black cinder + cones are scattered in profusion. Through the forest lands are many + beautiful prairies and glades that in midsummer are decked with gorgeous + wild flowers. The rains of the region give source to few perennial + streams, but intermittent streams have carved deep gorges in the plateau, + so that it is divided into many blocks. The upper surface, although + forest-clad and covered with beautiful grasses, is almost destitute of + water. A few springs are found, but they are far apart, and some of the + volcanic craters hold lakelets. The limestone and basaltic rocks sometimes + hold pools of water; and where the basins + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">40</span><a name="link40" id="link40"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + are deep the waters are perennial. Such pools are known as "water + pockets." + </p> + <p> + This is the great timber region of Arizona. Not many years ago it was a + vast park for elk, deer, and antelope, and bears and mountain lions were + abundant. This is the last home of the wild turkey in the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-17.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-17.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WINGATE CLIFF. + </p> + <p> + United States, for they are still found here in great numbers. San + Francisco Peak is the highest of these volcanic mountains, and about it + are grouped in an irregular way many volcanic cones, one of which presents + some remarkable characteristics. A portion of the cone is of bright + reddish cinders, while the adjacent rocks are of black basalt. The + contrast in the colors is so great that on viewing the mountain from a + distance the red cinders seem to be on fire. From this circumstance the + cone has been named Sunset Peak. When distant from it ten or twenty miles + it is hard to believe that the effect is produced by contrasting colors, + for the peak seems to glow with a light of its own. + </p> + <p> + In centuries past the San Francisco Plateau was the home of + pueblo-building tribes, and the ruins of their habitations are widely + scattered over this elevated region. Thousands of little dwellings are + found, usually built of blocks of basalt. In some cases they were + clustered in little towns, and three of these deserve further mention. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">41</span><a name="link41" id="link41"></a> + </p> + <p> + A few miles south of San Francisco Peak there is an intermittent stream + known as Walnut Creek. This stream runs in a deep gorge 600 to 800 feet + below the general surface. The stream has cut its way through the + limestone and through series of sandstones, and bold walls of rock are + presented on either side. In some places the softer sandstones lying + between the harder limestones and sandstones have yielded to weathering + agencies, so that there are caves running along the face of the wall, + sometimes for hundreds or thousands of feet, but not very deep. These + natural shelves in the rock were utilized by an ancient tribe of Indians + for their homes. They built stairways to the waters below and to the + hunting grounds above, and lived in the caves. They walled the fronts of + the caves with rock, which they covered with plaster, and divided them + into compartments or rooms; and now many hundreds of these dwellings are + found. Such is the cliff village of + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-18.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-18.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PYRAMID BUTTE NEAR FORT WINGATE. + </p> + <p> + Walnut Canyon. In the ruins of these cliff houses mortars and pestles are + found in great profusion, and when first discovered many articles of + pottery were found, and still many potsherds are seen. The people were + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">42</span><a name="link42" id="link42"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + very skillful in the manufacture of stone implements, especially spears, + knives, and arrows. + </p> + <p> + East of San Francisco Peak there is another low volcanic cone, composed of + ashes which have been slightly cemented by the processes of time, but + which can be worked with great ease. On this cone another tribe of Indians + made its village, and for the purpose they sunk shafts into the easily + worked but partially consolidated ashes, and after penetrating from the + surface three or four feet they enlarged the chambers so as to make them + ten or twelve feet in diameter. In such a chamber they made a little + fireplace, its chimney running up on one side of the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-19.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-19.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑI CLIFFS. + </p> + <p> + wellhole by which the chamber was entered. Often they excavated smaller + chambers connected with the larger, so that sometimes two, three, four, or + even five smaller connecting chambers are grouped about a large central + room. The arts of these people resembled those of the people who dwelt in + Walnut Canyon. One thing more is worthy of special notice. On the very top + of the cone they cleared off a space for a courtyard, or assembly square, + and about it they erected booths, and + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">43</span><a name="link43" id="link43"></a> + </p> + <p> + within the square a space of ground was prepared with a smooth floor, on + which they performed the ceremonies of their religion and danced to the + gods in prayer and praise. + </p> + <p> + Some twelve or fifteen miles farther east, in another volcanic cone, a + rough crater is found, surrounded by piles of cinders and angular + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-20.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-20.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GREAT NECK NINE MILES SOUTH OF SALAZAR. + </p> + <p> + fragments of lava. In the walls of this crater many caves are found, and + here again a village was established, the caves in the scoria being + utilized as habitations of men. These little caves were fashioned into + rooms of more symmetry and convenience than originally found, and the + openings to the caves were walled. Nor did these people neglect the gods, + for in this crater town, as in the cinder-cone town, a place of worship + was prepared. + </p> + <p> + Many other caves opening into the canyon and craters of this plateau were + utilized in like manner as homes for tribal people, and in one cave far to + the south a fine collection of several hundred pieces of pottery has been + made. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">44</span><a name="link44" id="link44"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + On the northeast of the San Francisco Plateau is the valley of the Little + Colorado, a tributary of the Colorado River. This river is formed by + streams that head chiefly on the San Francisco Plateau, but in part on the + Zuñi Plateau. The Little Colorado is a marvelous river. In seasons + of great rains it is a broad but shallow torrent of mud; in seasons of + drought it dwindles and sometimes entirely disappears along portions of + its course. The upper tributaries usually run in beautiful box canyons. + Then the river flows through a low, desolate, bad-land valley, and the + river of mud is broad but shallow, except in seasons of great floods. But + fifty miles or more above the junction of this stream with the Colorado + River proper, it plunges into a canyon + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-21.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-21.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CINDER CONE AND NECK NORTHEAST OF GRANT STATION. + </p> + <p> + with limestone walls, and steadily this canyon increases in depth, until + at the mouth of the stream it has walls more than 4,000 feet in height. + The contrast between this canyon portion and the upper + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">45</span><a name="link45" id="link45"></a> + </p> + <p> + valley portion is very great. Above, the river ripples in a broad sheet of + mud; below, it plunges with violence over great cataracts and rapids. + Above, the bad lands stretch on either hand. This is + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-22.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-22.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TWO LARGE NECKS, THE MORE DISTANT ONE BEING THE CABAZON. MESAS IN THE + FOREGROUND. + </p> + <p> + the region of the Painted Desert, for the marls and soft rocks of which + the hills are composed are of many colors--chocolate, red, vermilion, + pink, buff, and gray; and the naked hills are carved in fantastic forms. + Passing to the region below, suddenly the channel is narrowed and tumbles + down into a deep, solemn gorge with towering limestone cliffs. + </p> + <p> + All round the margin of the valley of the Little Colorado, on the side + next to the Zuñi Plateau and on the side next to the San Francisco + Plateau, every creek and every brook runs in a beautiful canyon. Then down + in the valley there are stretches of desert covered with sage and grease + wood. Still farther down we come to the bad lands of the Painted Desert; + and scattered through the entire region low mesas or smaller plateaus are + everywhere found. + </p> + <p> + On the northeast side of the Little Colorado a great mesa country + stretches far to the northward. These mesas are but minor plateaus that + are separated by canyons and canyon valleys, and sometimes by + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">46</span><a name="link46" id="link46"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + low sage plains. They rise from a few hundred to 2,000 or 3,000 feet above + the lowlands on which they are founded. The distinction between plateaus + and mesas is vague; in fact, in local usage the term mesa is usually + applied to all of these tables which do not carry volcanic moun- + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-23.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-23.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NECK SIX MILES NORTHEAST OF JUANTAFOYA. + </p> + <p> + tains. The mesas are carved out of platforms of horizontal or nearly + horizontal rocks by perennial or intermittent streams, and as the climate + is exceedingly arid most of the streams flow only during seasons of rain, + and for the greater part of the year they are dry arroyos. Many of the + longer channels are dry for long periods. Some of them are opened only by + floods that come ten or twenty years apart. + </p> + <p> + The region is also characterized by many buttes. These are plateaus or + mesas of still smaller dimensions in horizontal distance, though their + altitude may be hundreds or thousands of feet. Like the mesas and + plateaus, they sometimes form very conspicuous features of a landscape and + are of marvelous beauty by reason of their sculptured escarpments. Below + they are often buttressed on a magnificent scale. Softer beds give rise to + a vertical structure of buttresses and columns, while the harder strata + appear in great horizontal lines, suggesting + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">47</span><a name="link47" id="link47"></a> + </p> + <p> + architectural entablature. Then the strata of which these buttes are + composed are of many vivid colors; so color and form unite in producing + architectural effects, and the buttes often appear like Cyclopean temples. + </p> + <p> + There is yet one other peculiarity of this landscape deserving mention + here. Before the present valleys and canyons were carved and the mesas + lifted in relief, the region was one of great volcanic activity. In + various places vents were formed and floods of lava poured in sheets over + the land. Then for a time volcanic action ceased, and rains and rivers + carved out the valleys and left the mesas and mountains standing. These + same agencies carried away the lava beds that spread over the lands. But + wherever there was a lava vent it was filled with molten matter, which on + cooling was harder than the sandstones and marls through which it + penetrated. The chimney to the region of fire below was thus filled with a + black rock which yielded more + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">48</span><a name="link48" id="link48"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-24.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-24.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A GROUP OF NECKS NEAR MOUNT TAYLOR. + </p> + <p> + slowly to the disintegrating agencies of weather, and so black rocks rise + up from mesas on every hand. These are known as volcanic necks, and, being + of a somber color, in great contrast with the vividly colored rocks from + which they rise and by which they are surrounded, they + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">48</span><a name="link48" id="link48_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-25.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-25.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PANORAMA FROM THE EDGE OF MOUNT TAYLOR MESA. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. <span class="pagenum">49</span><a name="link49" + id="link49"></a> + </p> + <p> + lend a strange aspect to the landscape. Besides these necks, there are a + few volcanic mountains that tower over all the landscape and gather about + themselves the clouds of heaven. Mount Taylor, which stands over the + divide on the drainage of the Rio Grande del Norte, is one of the most + imposing of the dead volcanoes of this region. Still later eruptions of + lava are found here and there, and in the present valleys and canyons + sheets of black basalt are often found. These are known as coulees, and + sometimes from these coulees cinder cones arise. + </p> + <p> + This valley of the Little Colorado is also the site of many ruins, and the + villages or towns found in such profusion were of mueh larger size than + those on the San Francisco Plateau. Some of the pueblo-building peoples + yet remain. The Zuñi Indians still occupy their homes, and they + prove to be a most interesting people. They have cultivated the soil from + time immemorial. They build their houses of stone and line them with + plaster; and they have many interesting arts, being skilled potters and + deft weavers. The seasons are about equally divided between labor, + worship, and play. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">50</span><a name="link50" id="link50"></a> + </p> + <p> + A hundred miles to the northwest of the Zuñí pueblo are the + seven pueblos of Tusayan: Oraibi, Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, Mashongnavi, + Sichumovi, Walpi, and llano. These towns are built on high cliffs. The + people speak a language radically different from that of the Zuñi, + but, with the exception of that of the inhabitants of Hano, closely allied + to that of the Utes. The people of Hano are Tewans, whose ancestors moved + from the Rio Grande to Tusayan during the great Pueblo revolt against + Spanish authority in 1680-96. + </p> + <p> + Between the Little Colorado and the Rio San Juan there is a vast system of + plateaus, mesas, and buttes, volcanic mountains, volcanic cones, and + volcanic cinder cones. Some of the plateaus are forest-clad and have + perennial waters and are gemmed with lakelets. The mesas are sometimes + treeless, but are often covered with low, straggling, gnarled cedars and + pifions, trees that are intermediate in size between the bushes of sage in + the desert and the forest trees of the elevated regions. On the western + margin of this district the great Navajo Mountain stands, on the brink of + Glen Canyon, and from its summit many of the stupendous gorges of the + Colorado River can be seen. Central in the region stand the Carrizo + Mountains, the Lukachukai + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">50</span><a name="link50" id="link50_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-26.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-26.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PANORAMA IN THE VALLEY OF THE PUERCO. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. <span class="pagenum">51</span><a name="link51" + id="link51"></a> + </p> + <p> + Mountains, the Tunitcha Mountains, and the Chusca Mountains, which in fact + constitute one system, extending from north to south in the order named. + These are really plateaus crowned with volcanic peaks. + </p> + <p> + But the district we are now describing, which stretches from the Little + Colorado to the San Juan, is best characterized by its canyons. The whole + region is a labyrinth of gorges. On the west the Navajo Creek and its + tributaries run in profound chasms. Farther south the Moencopie with its + tributaries is a labyrinth of gorges; and all the streams that run west + into the Colorado, south into the Little Colorado, or north into the San + Juan have carved deep, wild, and romantic gorges. Immediately west of the + Chusca Plateau the Canyon del Muerta and the Canyon de Chelly are + especially noticeable. Many of these canyons are carved in a homogeneous + red sandstone, and their walls are often vertical for hundreds of feet. + Sometimes the canyons widen into narrow valleys, which are thus walled by + impassable cliffs, except where lateral canyons cut their way through the + battlements. + </p> + <p> + In these mountains, plateaus, mesas, and canyons the Navajo Indians have + their home. The Navajos are intruders in this country. They belong to the + Athapascan stock of British America and speak an Athapascan language, like + the Apaches of the Sierra Madre country. They are a stately, athletic, and + bold people. While yet this country was a part of Mexico they acquired + great herds of horses and flocks of sheep, and lived in opulence compared + with many of the other tribes of North America. After the acquisition of + this territory by the United States they became disaffected by reason of + encroaching civilization, and the petty wars between United States troops + and the Navajos were in the main disastrous to our forces, due in part to + the courage, skill, and superior numbers of the Navajos and in part to the + character of the country, which is easily defended, as the routes of + travel along the canyons present excellent opportunities for defense and + ambuscade. But under the leadership and by the advice of Kit Carson these + Indians were ultimately conquered. This wily but brave frontiersman + recommended a new method of warfare, which was to destroy the herds and + flocks of the Navajos; and this course was pursued. Regular troops with + volunteers from California and New Mexico went into the Navajo country and + shot down their herds of half-wild horses, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">52</span><a name="link52" id="link52"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + killed hundreds of thousands of sheep, cut down their peach orchards which + were scattered about the springs and little streams, destroyed their + irrigating works, and devastated their little patches of corn, squashes, + and melons; and entirely neglected the Navajos themselves, who were + concealed among the rocks of the canyons. Seeing the destruction wrought + upon their means of livelihood, the Navajos at once yielded. More than + 8,000 of them surrendered at one time, coming in in straggling bands. They + were then removed far to the east, near to the Texas line, and established + on a reservation at the Bosque Redondo. Here they engaged in civilized + farming. A great system + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-27.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-27.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS AT THE HEAD OF MCELMO CANYON. + </p> + <p> + of irrigation was developed; but the appropriations necessary for the + maintenance of so large a body of people in the course of their passage + from savagery to civilization seemed too great to those responsible for + making grants from the national treasury, and just before 1870 the Navajos + were permitted to break up their homes at the Bosque Redondo and return to + the canyons and cliffs of their ancient land. Millions were spent in + conquering them where thousands were used to civilize them, so that they + were conquered but not civilized. Still, they are making good progress, + and have once more acquired large flocks and herds. It is estimated that + they now have more than a million sheep. Their experience in irrigation at + the Bosque Redondo has + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">53</span><a name="link53" id="link53"></a> + </p> + <p> + not been wholly wasted, for they now cultivate the soil by methods of + irrigation greatly improved over those used in the earlier time. + Originally they dwelt in hogans, or houses made of poles arranged with + much skill in conical form, the poles being covered with reeds and the + reeds with earth; now they are copying the dwelling places of civilized + men. They have also acquired great skill in the manufacture of silver + ornaments, with which they decorate themselves and the trappings of their + steeds. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the most interesting ruins of America are found in this region. + The ancient pueblos found here are of superior structure, but + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-28.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-28.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A NAVAJO HOGAN. + </p> + <p> + they were all built by a people whom the Navajos displaced when they + migrated from the far North. Wherever there is water, near by an ancient + ruin may be found; and these ruins are gathered about centers, the centers + being larger pueblos and the scattered ruins representing single houses. + The ancient people lived in villages, or pueblos, but during the growing + season they scattered about by the springs and streams to cultivate the + soil by irrigation, and wherever there was a little farm or garden patch, + there was built a summer house of stone. When times of war came, + especially when they were invaded by the Navajos, these ancient people + left their homes in the pueblos and by the streams and constructed + temporary homes in the cliffs and canyon + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">54</span><a name="link54" id="link54"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + walls. Such cliff ruins are abundant throughout the region, intimately the + ancient pueblo peoples succumbed to the prowess of the Navajos and were + driven out. A part joined related tribes in the valley of the Bio Grande; + others joined the Zuñi and the people of Tusayan; and stall others + pushed on beyond the Little Colorado to the San Francisco Plateau and far + down into the valley of the Gila. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-29.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-29.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ANCIENT COILED VASE FROM TUSAYAN. + </p> + <p> + Farther to the east, on the border of the region which we have described, + beyond the drainage of the Little Colorado and San Juan and within the + drainage of the Rio Grande, there lies an interesting plateau region, + which forms a part of the Plateau Province and which is worthy of + description. This is the great Tewan Plateau, which carries several groups + of mountains. The western edge of this plateau is known as the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. <span class="pagenum">55</span><a name="link55" + id="link55"></a> + </p> + <p> + Nacimiento Mountain, a long north-and-south range of granite, which + presents a bold facade to the valley of the Puerco on the west. Ascending + to the summit of this granite range, there is presented to the eastward a + plateau of vast proportions, which stretches far toward Santa Fe and is + terminated by the canyon of the Rio Grande del Norte. The eastern flank of + this range as it slowly rose was a gentle slope, but as it came up + fissures were formed and volcanoes burst forth and poured out their floods + of lava, and now many extinct volcanoes can be seen. The plateau was built + by these volcanoes--sheets of lava piled on sheets of lava hundreds and + even thousands of feet in thickness. But with the floods of lava came + great explosions, like that of Krakatoa, by which the heavens were filled + with volcanic dust. These explosions came at different times and at + different places, but they were of enormous magnitude, and when the dust + fell again from the clouds it piled up in beds scores and hundreds of feet + in thickness. So the Tewan Plateau has a foundation of red sandstone; upon + this are piled sheets of lava and sheets of dust in many alternating + layers. It is estimated that there still remain more than two hundred + cubic miles of this dust, now compacted into somewhat coherent rocks and + interpolated between sheets of lava. Everywhere this dust-formed rock is + exceedingly light. Much of it has a specific gravity so low that it will + float on water. Above the sheets of lava and above the beds of volcanic + dust great volcanic cones rise, and the whole upper region is covered with + forests interspersed with beautiful prairies. The plateau itself is + intersected with many deep, narrow canyons, having walls of lava, volcanic + dust, or tufa, and red sandstone. It is a beautiful region. The low mesas + on every side are almost treeless and are everywhere deserts, but the + great Tewan Plateau is booned with abundant rains, and it is thus a region + of forests and meadows, divided into blocks by deep, precipitous canyons + and crowned with cones that rise to an altitude of from 10,000 to 12,000 + feet. + </p> + <p> + For many centuries the Tewan Plateau, with its canyons below and its + meadows and forests above, has been the home of tribes of Tewan Indians, + who built pueblos, sometimes of the red sandstones in the canyons, but + oftener of blocks of tufa, or volcanic dust. This light material can be + worked with great ease, and with crude tools of the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">56</span><a name="link56" id="link56"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + harder lavas they cut out blocks of the tufa and with them built pueblos + two or three stories high. The blocks are usually about twenty inches in + length, eight inches in width, and six inches in thickness, though they + vary somewhat in size. On the volcanic cones which dominate the country + these people built shrines and worshiped their gods with offerings of meal + and water and with prayer symbols made of the plumage of the birds of the + air. When the Navajo invasion came, by which kindred tribes were displaced + from the district farther west, these Tewan Indians left their pueblos on + the plateau and their dwellings by the rivers below in the depths of the + canyon and constructed cavate homes for themselves; that is, they + excavated chambers in the cliffs where these cliffs were composed of soft, + friable tufa. On the face of the cliff, hundreds of feet high and + thousands of feet or even miles in length, they dug out chambers with + stone tools, these chambers being little rooms eight or ten feet in + diameter. Sometimes two or more such chambers connected. Then they + constructed stairways in the soft rock, by which their cavate houses were + reached; and in these rock shelters they lived during times + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-30.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-30.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A TYPICAL CLIFF DWELLING. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">57</span><a name="link57" id="link57"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-31.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-31.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ROOM IN <i>A</i> PUEBLO. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">58</span><a name="link58" id="link58"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + of war. When the Navajo invasion was long past, civilized men as Spanish + adventurers entered this country from Mexico, and again the Tewan peoples + left their homes on the mesas and by the canyons to find safety in the + cavate dwellings of the cliffs; and now the archaeologist in the study of + this country discovers these two periods of construction and occupation of + the cavate dwellings of the Tewan Indians. + </p> + <p> + North of the Rio San Juan another vast plateau region is found, stretching + to the Grand River. The mountains of this region are the La Plata + Mountains, Bear River Mountains, and San Miguel Mountains on the east, and + the Sierra El Late, the Sierra Abajo, and the Sierra La Sal on the west, + the latter standing near the brink of Cataract Canyon, through which the + Colorado flows immediately below the junction of the Grand and Green. + Throughout the region mountains, volcanic cones, volcanic necks, and + coulees are found, while the mountains themselves rise to great altitudes + and are forest-clad. Some of the plateaus attain huge proportions, and + between the plateaus labyrinthian mesas are found. Buttes, as stupendous + cameos, are scattered everywhere, and the whole region is carved with + canyons. + </p> + <p> + Grand River heads on the back of Long's Peak, in the Front Range of the + Rocky Mountains of central Colorado. At the foot of the mountain lies + Grand Lake, a sheet of emerald water that duplicates the forest standing + on its brink. Out of the lake flows Grand River, gathering on + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-32.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-32.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A NAVAJO READY FOR A JOURNEY. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">59</span><a name="link59" id="link59"></a> + </p> + <p> + its way the many mountain streams whose waters fill the solitude with + perennial music--a symphony of cascades. In Middle Park boiling springs + issue from depths below and gather in pools covered with con-fervae. + Leaving Middle Park the river goes through a great range known as the + Gore's Pass Mountains; and still it flows on toward the Colorado, now + through canyon and now through valley, until the last forty miles of its + course it finds its way through a beautiful gorge known as Grand River + Canyon. In its principal course this canyon is a bright red homogeneous + sandstone, and the walls are often vertical and of great symmetry. Farther + down, its walls are rugged and angular, being composed of limestones. + </p> + <p> + The principal tributaries from the south are the Blue, which heads in Mt. + Lincoln, and the Gunnison, which heads in the Wasatch Mountains. These + streams are also characterized by deep canyons and plateaus, and mesas + abound on every hand. Between the Grand River and the White River, farther + to the east, the Tavaputs Plateau is found. It begins at the foot of + Gore's Pass Range and extends down between the rivers last mentioned to + the very brink of Green River, which is in fact the upper Colorado. + Between the Grand River and the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-33.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-33.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A NAVAJO BOY. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">60</span><a name="link60" id="link60"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + foot of this plateau there is a low, narrow valley with mesas and buttes. + Then the country suddenly rises by a stupendous line of cliffs 2,000 or + 3,000 feet high. These cliffs are composed of sand stones, limestones, and + shales, of many colors. The stratification in many places is minute, so + that they have been called the Book Cliffs. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-34.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-34.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GARDENS OF ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + From the cliffs many salients are projected into the valleys, and within + deep re-entering angles vast amphitheaters appear. About the projected + salients many towering buttes, with pinnacles and minarets, are found. The + long, narrow plateau is covered with a forest along its summit, and, + though it rises abruptly on the south side from Grand River Valley, it + descends more gently toward the White River, and on + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">61</span><a name="link61" id="link61"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-35.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-35.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A TUSAYAN LADDER. + </p> + <p> + this slope many canyons of rare beauty are seen. Plateaus and mesas and + canyons and buttes characterize the region north of White River and + stretch out to the Yampa. The Yampa itself has an important tributary from + the northwest, known as Snake River. Just below the affluence of the Snake + with the Yampa a strange phenomenon is observed. Right athwart the course + of the river rises a great dome-shaped mountain, with valley stretches on + every side, and through this mountain the river runs, dividing it by a + beautiful canyon, through which it flows to its junction with the Green. + This canyon is in soft, white sandstone, usually with vertical walls + varying from 500 to 2,000 feet in height, and the river flows in a gentle + winding way through all this stretch. To the east of this plateau region, + with its mesas and buttes and its volcanic mountains, stand the southern + Rocky Mountains, or Park Mountains, a system of north-and-south ranges. + These ranges are huge billows in the crust of the earth out of which + mountains have been carved. The parks of Colorado are great valley basins + enclosed by these ranges, and over their surfaces moss agates are + scattered. The mountains are covered with dense forests and are rugged and + wild. The higher peaks rise above the timber line and are naked gorges of + rocks. In them the Platte and Arkansas rivers head and flow eastward to + join the Missouri River. Here also heads the Rio Grande del Norte, which + flows southward into the Gulf of Mexico, and still to the west head many + streams which pour into the Colorado waters destined for the Gulf of + California. Throughout all of this region drained by the Grand, White, and + Yampa rivers, there are many beautiful parks. The great moun- + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-36.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-36.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑÍ STOOL. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">62</span><a name="link62" id="link62"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + tain slopes are still covered with primeval forests. Springs, brooks, + rivers, and lakes abound, and the waters are filled with trout. Not many + years ago the hills were covered with game--elk on the mountains, deer on + the plateaus, antelope in the valleys, and beavers building their cities + on the streams. The plateaus are covered with low, dwarf oaks and many + shrubs bearing berries, and in the chaparral of this region cinnamon bears + are still abundant. + </p> + <p> + From time immemorial the region drained by the Grand, White, and Yampa + rivers has been the home of Ute tribes of the Shoshonean + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-37.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-37.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A TUSAYAN FIELD SHELTER. + </p> + <p> + family of Indians. These people built their shelters of boughs and bark, + and to some extent lived in tents made of the skins of animals. They never + cultivated the soil, but gathered wild seeds and roots and were famous + hunters and fishermen. As the region abounds in game, these tribes have + always been well clad in skins and furs. The men wore blouse, loincloth + leggins, and moccasins, and the women dressed in short kilts. It is + curious to notice the effect which the contact of civilization has had + upon these women's dress. Even twenty years ago they had lengthened their + skirts; and dresses, made of buckskin, fringed with furs, and beaded with + elk teeth, were worn so long that they trailed + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">63</span><a name="link63" id="link63"></a> + </p> + <p> + on the ground. Neither men nor women wore any headdress except on festival + occasions for decoration; then the women wore little basket bonnets + decorated with feathers, and the men wore headdresses made of the skins of + ducks, geese, eagles, and other large birds. Sometimes they would prepare + the skin of the head of the elk or deer, or of a bear or mountain lion or + wolf, for a headdress. For very cold weather both men and women were + provided with togas for their protection. Sometimes the men would have a + bearskin or elkskin for a toga; more + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-38.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-38.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ANOTHER TUSAYAN FIELD SHELTER. + </p> + <p> + often they made their togas by piecing together the skins of wolves, + mountain lions, wolverines, wild cats, beavers, and otters. The women + sometimes made theirs of fawnskins, but rabbitskin r,obes were far more + common. These rabbitskins were tanned with the fur on, and cut into + strips; then cords were made of the fiber of wild flax or yucca plants, + and round these cords the strips of rabbitskin were rolled, so that they + made long ropes of rabbitskin coils with a central cord of vegetal fiber; + then these coils were woven in parallel strings with cross + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">64</span><a name="link64" id="link64"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-39.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-39.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VIEW OF HANO, ONE OF THE SEVEN PUEBLOS OF TUSAYAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-40.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-40.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MESA VERDE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MESAS AND BUTTES. <span class="pagenum">65</span><a name="link65" + id="link65"></a> + </p> + <p> + strands of fiber. The robe when finished was usually about five or six + feet square, and it made a good toga for a cold day and a warm blanket for + the night. + </p> + <p> + The Ute Indians, like all the Indians of North America, have a wealth of + mythic stories. The heroes of these stories are the beasts, birds, and + reptiles of the region, and the themes of the stories are the doings of + these mythic beasts--the ancients from whom the present animals have + descended and degenerated. The primeval animals were wonderful beings, as + related in the lore of the Utes. They were the creators and controllers of + all the phenomena of nature known to these simple-minded people. The Utes + are zootheists. Each little tribe has its Shaman, or medicine man, who is + historian, priest, and doctor. The lore of this Shaman is composed of + mythic tales of ancient animals. The Indians are very skillful actors, and + they represent the parts of beasts or reptiles, wearing masks and + imitating the ancient zoic gods. In temples walled with gloom of night and + illumed by torch fires the people gather about their Shaman, who tells and + acts the stories of creation recorded in their traditional bible. When + fever prostrates one of the tribe the Shaman gathers the actors about the + stricken man, and with weird dancing, wild ululation, and ecstatic + exhortation the evil spirit is driven from the body. Then they have their + ceremonies to pray for the forest fruits, for abundant game, for + successful hunting, and for prosperity in war. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">66</span><a name="link66" id="link66"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-41.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-41.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOUNT MORAN, TETON RANGE, WYOMING. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">67</span><a name="link67" id="link67"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER III. + </p> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. + </p> + <p> + GREEN RIVER has its source in Fremont's Peak, high up in the Wind River + Mountains among glacial lakes and mountain cascades. This is the real + source of the Colorado River, and it stands in strange contrast with the + mouth of that stream where it pours into the Gulf of California. The + general course of the river is from north to south and from great + altitudes to the level of the sea. Thus it runs "from land of snow to land + of sun." The Wind River Mountains constitute one of the most imposing + ranges of the United States. Fremont's Peak, the culminating point, is + 13,790 feet above the level of the sea. It stands in a wilderness of + crags. Here at Fremont's Peak three great rivers have their sources: Wind + River flows eastward into the Mississippi; Green River flows southward + into the Colorado; and Gros Ventre River flows northwestward into the + Columbia. From this dominating height many ranges can be seen on every + hand. About the sources of the Platte and the Big Horn, that flow + ultimately into the Gulf of Mexico, great ranges stand with their + culminating peaks among the clouds; and the mountains that extend into + Yellowstone Park, the land of geyser wonders, are seen. The Yellowstone + Park is at the southern extremity of a great system of mountain ranges, + the northern Rocky Mountains, sometimes called the Geyser Ranges. This + geological province extends into British America, but its most wonderful + scenery is in the upper Yellowstone basin, where geysers bombard the + heavens with vapor distilled in subterranean depths. The springs which + pour out their boiling waters are loaded with quartz, and the waters of + the springs, flowing away over the rocks, slowly discharge their fluid + magma, which crystallizes in beautiful forms and builds jeweled basins + that hold pellucid waters. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">68</span><a name="link68" id="link68"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + To the north and west of Fremont's Peak are mountain ranges that give + birth to rivers flowing into the great Columbia. Conspicuous among these + from this point of view is the great Teton Range, with its towering facade + of storm-carved rocks; then the Gros Ventre Mountains, the Snake River + Range, the Wyoming Range, and, still beyond the latter, the Bear River + Range, are seen. Far in the distant south, scarcely to be distinguished + from the blue clouds on the horizon, stand the Uinta Mountains. On every + hand are deep mountain gorges where snows accumulate to form glaciers. + Below the glaciers throughout the entire Wind River Range great numbers of + morainal lakes are found. These lakes are gems--deep sapphire waters + fringed with emerald zones. From these lakes creeks and rivers flow, by + cataracts and rapids, to form the Green. The mountain slopes below are + covered with dense forests of pines and firs. The lakes are often fringed + with beautiful aspens, and when the autumn winds come their golden leaves + are carried over the landscape in clouds of resplendent sheen. The creeks + descend from the mountains in wild rocky gorges, until they flow out into + the valley. On the west side of the valley stand the Gros Ventre and the + Wyoming mountains, low ranges of peaks, but picturesque in form and forest + stretch. Leaving the mountain, the river meanders through the Green River + Plains, a cold elevated district much like that of northern Norway, except + that the humidity of Norway is replaced by the aridity of Wyoming. South + of the plains the Big Sandy joins the Green from the east. South of the + Big Sandy a long zone of sand-dunes stretches eastward. The western winds + blowing up the valley drift these sands from hill to hill, so that the + hills themselves are slowly journeying eastward on the wings of arid + gales, and sand tempests may be encountered more terrible than storms of + snow or hail. Here the northern boundary of the Plateau Province is found, + for mesas and high table-lands are found on either side of the river. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">69</span><a name="link69" id="link69"></a> + </p> + <p> + On the east side of the Green, mesas and plateaus have irregular + escarpments with points extending into the valleys, and between these + points canyons come down that head in the highlands. Everywhere the + escarpments are fringed with outlying buttes. Many portions of the region + are characterized by bad lands. These are hills carved out of sandstone, + shales, and easily disintegrated rocks, which present many + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">69</span><a name="link69" id="link69_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-42.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-42.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MARBLE BASINS, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PARK. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">70</span><a name="link70" id="link70"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-43.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-43.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TERRACED BASINS, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE PABK. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. <span class="pagenum">71</span><a name="link71" + id="link71"></a> + </p> + <p> + fantastic forms and are highly colored in a great variety of tint and + tone, and everywhere they are naked of vegetation. Now and then low + mountains crown the plateaus. Altogether it is a region of desolation. + Through the midst of the country, from east to west, flows an intermittent + stream known as Bitter Creek. In seasons of rain it carries floods; in + seasons of drought it disappears in the sands, and its waters are alkaline + and often poisonous. Stretches of bad-land desert are interrupted by other + stretches of sage plain, and on the high lands gnarled and picturesque + forests of juniper and piñón are found. On the west side of + the river the mesas rise by grassy slopes to the westward into high + plateaus that are forest-clad, first with juniper and piñon, and + still higher with pines and firs. Some of the streams run in canyons and + others have elevated valleys along their courses. On the south border of + this mesa and plateau country are the Bridger Bad Lands, lying at the foot + of the Uinta Mountains. These bad lands are of gray, green, and brown + shales that are carved in picturesque forms--domes, towers, pinnacles, and + minarets, and bold cliffs with deep alcoves; and all are naked rock, the + sediments of an ancient lake. These lake beds are filled with + fossils,--the preserved bones of fishes, reptiles, and mammals, of strange + and often gigantic forms, no longer found living on the globe. It is a + desert to the agriculturist, a mine to the paleontologist, and a paradise + to the artist. + </p> + <p> + The region thus described, from Fremont's Peak to the Uinta Mountains, has + been the home of tribes of Indians of the Shoshonean family from time + immemorial. It is a great hunting and fishing region, and the vigorous + Shoshones still obtain a part of their livelihood from mesa and plain and + river and lake. The flesh of the animals killed in fall and winter was + dried in the arid winds for summer use; the trout abounding in the streams + and lakes were caught at all seasons of the year; and the seeds and fruits + of harvest time were gathered and preserved for winter use. When the seeds + were gathered they were winnowed by tossing them in trays so that the + winds might carry away the chaff. Then they were roasted in the same + trays. Burning coals and seeds were mixed in the basket trays and kept in + motion by a tossing process which fanned the coals until the seeds were + done; then they were separated from the coals by dexterous manipulation. + Afterwards the seeds were ground on + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">72</span><a name="link72" id="link72"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + mealing-stones and molded into cakes, often huge loaves, that were stored + away for use in time of need. Raspberries, chokecherries, and buffalo + berries are abundant, and these fruits were gathered and mixed with the + bread. Such fruit cakes were great dainties among these people. + </p> + <p> + In this Shoshone land the long winter night is dedicated to worship and + festival. About their camp fires scattered in forest glades by brooks and + lakes, they assemble to dance and sing in honor of their gods--wonderful + mythic animals, for they hold as divine the ancient of bears, the eagle of + the lost centuries, the rattlesnake of primeval times, and a host of other + zoic deities. + </p> + <p> + The Uinta Range stands across the course of Green River, which finds its + way through it by series of stupendous canyons. The range has an + east-and-west trend. The Wasatch Mountains, a long north-and-south range, + here divide the Plateau Province from what is known among geologists as + the Basin Range Province, on the west. The latter is the great interior + basin whose waters run into salt lakes and sinks, there being no drainage + to the sea. The Great Salt Lake is the most important of these interior + bodies of water. + </p> + <p> + The Great Basin, which lies to the west of the Plateau Province, forms a + part of the Basin Range Province. In past geological times it was the site + of a vast system of lakes, but the climate has since changed and the water + of most of these lakes has evaporated and the sediments of the old lake + beds are now desert sands. The ancient lake shores are often represented + by conspicuous terraces, each one marking a stage in the height of a dead + lake. While these lakes existed the region was one of great volcanic + activity and many eruptive mountains were formed. Some burst out beneath + the waters; others were piled up on the dry land. + </p> + <p> + From the desert valleys below, the Wasatch Mountains rise abruptly and are + crowned with craggy peaks. But on the east side of the mountains the + descent to the plateau is comparatively slight. The Uinta Mountains are + carved out of the great plateau which extends more than two hundred miles + to the eastward of the summit of the Wasatch Range. Its mountain peaks are + cameos, its upper valleys are meadows, its higher slopes are forest + groves, and its streams run in deep, solemn, and majestic canyons. The + snows never melt from its crowning heights, and an undying anthem is sung + by its falling waters. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">73</span><a name="link73" id="link73"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-44.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-44.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TABERNACLE CRATER AND LAVA BEDS OF THE BASIN PROVINCE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">74</span><a name="link74" id="link74"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-45.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-45.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VIEW ON GREAT SALT LAKE DESERT, SHOWING MOUNTAINS HALF BURIED BY LAKE + SEDIMENTS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. <span class="pagenum">75</span><a name="link75" + id="link75"></a> + </p> + <p> + The Owiyukuts Plateau is situated at the northeastern end of the Uinta + Mountains. It is a great integral block of the Uinta system. A beautiful + creek heads in this plateau, near its center, and descends northward into + the bad lands of Vermilion Creek, to which stream it is tributary. <i>"</i>Once + upon a time" this creek, after descending from the plateau, turned east + and then southward and found its way by a beautiful canyon into Brown's + Park, where it joined the Green; but a great bend of the Vermilion, near + the foot of the plateau, was gradually enlarged--the stream cutting away + its banks--until it encroached upon the little valley of the creek born on + the Owiyukuts Plateau. This encroachment continued until at last Vermilion + Creek stole the Owiyukuts Creek and carried its waters away by its own + channel. Then the canyon channel through which Owiyukuts Creek had + previously run, no longer having a stream to flow through its deep gorge, + gathered the waters of brooks flowing along its course into little + lakelets, which are connected by a running stream only through seasons of + great rainfall. These lakelets in the gorge of the dead creek are now + favorite resorts of Ute Indians. + </p> + <p> + South of the Uinta Mountains is the Uinta River, a stream with many + mountain tributaries, some heading in the Uinta Mountains, others in the + Wasatch Mountains on the west, and still others in the western Tavaputs + Plateau. + </p> + <p> + The Uinta Valley is the ancient and present home of the Uinta Indians, a + tribe speaking the Uinta language of the Shoshonean family. Their habits, + customs, institutions, and mythology are essentially the same as those of + the Ute Indians of the Grand River country, already described. In this + valley there are also found many ruins of ancient pueblo-building + peoples--of what stock is not known. + </p> + <p> + The Tavaputs Plateau is one of the stupendous features of this country. On + the west it merges into the Wasatch Mountains; on the north it descends by + wooded slopes into the Uinta Valley. Its summit is forest-clad and among + the forests are many beautiful parks. On the south it ends in a great + escarpment which descends into Castle Valley. This southern escarpment + presents one of the most wonderful facades of the world. It is from 2,000 + to 4,000 feet high. The descent is not made by one bold step, for it is + cut by canyons and cliffs. It is a zone several + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">76</span><a name="link76" id="link76"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + miles in width which is a vast labyrinth of canyons, cliffs, buttes, + pinnacles, minarets, and detached rocks of Cyclopean magnitude, the whole + destitute of soil and vegetation, colored in many brilliant tones and + tints, and carved in many weird forms,--a land of desolation, dedicated + forever to the geologist and the artist, where civilization can find no + resting-place. + </p> + <p> + Then comes Castle Valley, to describe which is to beggar language and pall + imagination. On the north is the Tavaputs; on the west is the Wasatch + Plateau, which lies to the south of the Wasatch Mountains and is here the + west boundary of the Plateau Province; on the south are indescribable + mesas and mountains; on the east is Grand River, a placid stream + meandering through a valley of meadows. Within these boundaries there is a + landscape of gigantic rock forms, interrupted here and there by bad-land + hills, dominated with the towering cliffs of Tavaputs, the bold escarpment + of the Wasatch Plateau, and the volcanic peaks of the Henry Mountains on + the south. It is a vast forest of rock forms, and in its midst is San + Rafael Swell, an elevation crowned with still more gigantic rock forms. + Among the rocks pools and lakelets are found, and little streams run in + canyons that seem like chasms cleft to nadir + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">77</span><a name="link77" id="link77"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-46.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-46.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN INDIAN HUNTER. ... .... + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">78</span><a name="link78" id="link78"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-47.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-47.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RESERVOIR BUTTE, SHOWING TERRACES OF THE ANCIENT LAKE BONNEVILLE + SHORELINES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">79</span><a name="link79" id="link79"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-48.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-48.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PAVANT BUTTE, OVER A SUBMARINE VOLCANO OF THE GREAT + </p> + <p> + BASIN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">80</span><a name="link79" id="link79_"></a> + </p> + <p> + hell. San Rafael River and Fremont River drain this Castle land, heading + in the Wasatch Plateau and flowing into the Grand River. Along these + streams a few narrow canyon valleys are found, and in them Ute Indians + make their winter homes. The bad lands are filled with agates, jaspers, + and carnelians, which are gathered by the Indians and fashioned + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-49.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-49.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN INDIAN CAMP. + </p> + <p> + into arrowheads and knives; along the foot of the canyon cliffs workshops + can be discovered that have been occupied by generations from a time in + the long past, and the chips of these workshops pave the valleys. South of + the Wasatch Plateau we have the Fish Lake Plateau, the Awapa Plateau, and + the Aquarius Plateau, which separate the waters flowing into the Great + Basin from the waters of the Colorado, which + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">81</span><a name="link81" id="link81"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">80</span><a name="link80" id="link80"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + here constitute the boundary of the Plateau Province. Awapa is a Ute name + signifying "Many waters." + </p> + <p> + All three of these plateaus are remarkable for the many lakelets found on + them. To the east are the Henry Mountains, a group of volcanic domes that + rise above the region. The rocks of the country + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-50.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-50.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + INDIANS GAMBLING. + </p> + <p> + are limestones, sandstones, and shales, originally lying in horizontal + altitudes; but volcanic forces were generated under them and lavas boiled + up. These lavas did not, however, come to the surface, but as they rose + they lifted the sandstones, shales, and limestones, to a thickness of + 2,000 or 3,000 feet or more, into great domes. Then the molten lavas + cooled in great lenses of mountain magnitude, with the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">82</span><a name="link82" id="link82"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-51.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-51.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUIN NEAR MOENKOPI. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-52.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-52.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS OF PAYUPKI, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF MASHONGNAVI, TUSAYAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. <span class="pagenum">83</span><a name="link83" + id="link83"></a> + </p> + <p> + sedimentary rocks domed above them. Then the clouds gathered over these + domes and wept, and their tears were gathered in brooks, and the brooks + carved canyons down the sides of the domes; and now in these deep clefts + the structure of the mountains is revealed. The lenses of volcanic rocks + by which the domes were upheaved are known as "laccolites," <i>i. e.,</i> + rock lakes. + </p> + <p> + Looking southwestward from the Henry Mountains the Circle Cliffs are seen. + A great escarpment, several thousand feet in height and 70 or 80 miles in + length, faces the mountain. It is the step to the long, narrow plateau. + The streams that come down across these cliffs head in great symmetric + amphitheaters, and when first seen from above they present a vast + alignment of walled circles. The front of the cliffs, seen from below, is + everywhere imposing. On the southwest the Escalante River holds its + course. It heads in the Aquarius Plateau and flows into the Colorado. Its + course, as well as that of all its many tributaries, is in deep + box-canyons of homogeneous red sandstone, often with vertical walls that + are broken by many beautiful alcoves and glens. Much of the region is of + naked, smooth, red rock, but the alcoves and glens that break the canyon + walls are the sites of perennial springs, about which patches of luxuriant + verdure gather. + </p> + <p> + The Kaiparowits Plateau is an elevated table-land on the southwestern side + of the Escalante River. It is long and narrow, extending from the + northwest to the southeast approximately parallel with the Escalante. It + rises above the red sandstone of the Escalante region from 2,000 to 4,000 + feet by a front of storm-carved cliffs. From the southeastern extremity of + this plateau, at an altitude of 7,500 feet, an instructive view is + obtained. One of the great canyons of the Colorado River can be seen + meandering its way through the red-rock landscape. In the distance, and to + the north, the Henry Mountains are in view, and below, the canyons of the + Escalante and the red-rock land are in sight. Across the Colorado are the + canyons of the San Juan, and below the mouth of the San Juan is the great + Navajo Mountain. Still to the south the Grand Canyon of the Colorado is in + view, and in the west a vast mesa landscape is presented with its buttes + and pinnacles. Still to the southward Paria River is seen heading in a + plateau on the margin of the province and having a course a little east of + south into the Colorado. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">84</span><a name="link84" id="link84"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + The region of country which has been thus described, from the Tava-puts + Plateau to the Paria River, was the home of a few scattered Ute Indians, + who lived in very small groups, and who hunted on the plateau, fished in + the waters, and dwelt in the canyons. There was nominally but one tribe, + but as the members of this tribe were in very small parties and separated + by wide distances the tribal bonds were very weak and often unrecognized. + The chief integrating agency was religion, for they worshiped the same + gods and periodically joined in the same religious ceremonies and + festivals. A country so destitute of animal and vegetal life would not + support large numbers, and the few who dwelt here gained but a precarious + and scant subsistence. To a large extent they lived on seeds and roots. + The low, warm canyons furnished admirable shelter for the people, and + their habitual costumes were loincloths, paints, and necklaces of tiny + arrowheads made of the bright-colored agates and carnelians strung on + snakeskins. + </p> + <p> + When the Mormon people encroached on this country from the west, and when + the Navajos on the east surrendered to the United States, a few + recalcitrant Navajos and the Utes of this region combined. They had long + been more or less intimately associated, and a jargon speech had grown up + by which they could communicate. Finally, the greater number of these Utes + and renegade Navajos took up their homes permanently on the eastern bank + of the Colorado River between the Grand and the San Juan rivers. The + Navajos are the dominant race, yet they live on terms of practical + equality and affiliate without feuds. These are the great Freebooters of + the Plateau Province--the enemies of other tribes and of the white men. In + their canyon fortresses they have been able to hold their ground in spite + of their enemies on every hand. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the region and the plateaus by which it is surrounded and the + mountains by which it is interrupted, everywhere ruins of pueblos and many + cliff dwellings are found. None of these ancient pueblos are on a large + scale. The houses were usually one or two stories high and the hamlets + rarely provided shelter for more than two dozen people. Some of the houses + are of rather superior architecture, having well-constructed walls with + good geometric proportions. Their houses were plastered on the inside, and + sometimes on the outside, + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">85</span><a name="link85" id="link85"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-53.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-53.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SHUPAULOVI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">86</span><a name="link86" id="link86"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-54.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-54.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GENERAL VIEW OF ZUÑI, LOOKING WEST. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAUS. <span class="pagenum">87</span><a name="link87" + id="link87"></a> + </p> + <p> + and covered with flat roofs of sun-dried mud. The real home of the people + in their waking hours was on their housetops. + </p> + <p> + The rocks of the mountain are etched with many picture-writings attesting + the artistic skill of this people. The predominant form is the + rattlesnake, which is found in the crevices of the rocks on every hand. It + is inferred that the people worshiped the rattlesnake as one of their + chief deities, a god who carried the spirit of death in his mouth. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">88</span><a name="link88" id="link88"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-55.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-55.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE GRAY CLIFFS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">89</span><a name="link89" id="link89"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER IV. + </p> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. + </p> + <p> + THERE is a great group of table-lands constituting a geographic unit which + have been named the Terrace Plateaus. They ex-tend from the Paria and + Colorado on the east to the Grand Wash and Pine Mountains on the west, and + they are bounded on the south by the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, and on + the north they divide the waters of the Colorado from the waters of the + Sevier, which flows northward and then westward until it is lost in the + sands of the Great Desert. It is an irregular system of great plateaus + with subordinate mesas and buttes separated by lines of cliffs and + dissected by canyons. + </p> + <p> + In this region all of the features which have been described as found in + other portions of the province are grouped except only the cliffs of + volcanic ashes, the volcanic cones, and the volcanic domes. The volcanic + mountains, cinder cones, and coulees, the majestic plateaus and elaborate + mesas, the sculptured buttes and canyon gorges, are all found here, but on + a more stupendous scale. The volcanic mountains are higher, the cinder + cones are larger, the coulees are more extensive and are often sheets of + naked, black rock, the plateaus are more lofty, the cliffs are on a + grander scale, the canyons are of profounder depth; and the Grand Canyon + of the Colorado, the most stupendous gorge known on the globe, with a + great river surging through it, bounds it on the south. + </p> + <p> + The east-and-west cliffs are escarpments of degradation, the + north-and-south cliffs are, in the main, though not always, escarpments of + displacement. Let us understand what this means. Over the entire region + limestones, shales, and sandstones were deposited through long periods of + geologic time to the thickness of many thousands of feet; then the country + was upheaved and tilted toward the north; but the Colorado + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">90</span><a name="link90" id="link90"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-56.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-56.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + River was flowing when the tilting commenced, and the upheaval was very + slow, so that the river cleared away the obstruction to its channel as + fast as it was presented, and this is the Grand Canyon. The rocks above + were carried away by rains and rivers, but not evenly all over the + country; nor by washing out valleys and leaving hills, but by carving the + country into terraces. The upper and later-formed rocks are found far to + the north, their edges standing in cliffs; then still earlier rocks are + found rising to the southward, until they terminate in cliffs; and then a + third series rises to the southward and ends in cliffs, and finally a + fourth series, the oldest rocks, terminating in the Grand Canyon wall, + which is a line of cliffs. There are in a general way four great lines of + cliffs extending from east to west across the district and presenting + their faces, or escarpments, southward. If these cliffs are climbed it is + found that each plateau or terrace dips gently to the northward until it + meets with another line of cliffs, which must be ascended to reach the + summit of another plateau. Place a book before you on a table with its + front edge toward you, rest another book on the back of this, place a + third on the back of the second, and in like manner a fourth on the third. + Now the leaves of the books dip from you and the cut edges stand in tiny + escarpments facing you. So the rock-formed leaves of + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">91</span><a name="link91" id="link91"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + V + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-57.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-57.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A GROUP OF STONE CORRALS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">92</span><a name="link92" id="link92"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-58.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-58.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. <span class="pagenum">93</span><a name="link93" + id="link93"></a> + </p> + <p> + these books of geology have the escarpment edges turned southward, while + each book itself dips northward, and the crest of each plateau book is the + summit of a line of cliffs. These cliffs of erosion have been described as + running from east to west, but they diverge from that course in many ways. + First, canyons run from north to south through them, and where these + canyons are found deep angles occur; then sharp salients extend from the + cliffs on the backs of the lower plateaus. Each great escarpment is made + up more or less of minor terraces, or steps; and at the foot of each grand + escarpment there is always a great talus, or sloping pile of rocks, and + many marvelous buttes stand in front of the cliffs. + </p> + <p> + But these east-and-west cliffs and the plateaus which they form are + divided by north-and-south lines in another manner. The country has been + faulted along north-and-south lines or planes. These faults are breaks in + the strata varying from 1,000 or 2,000 to 4,000 or 5,000 feet in + verticality. On the very eastern margin the rocks are dropped down several + thousand feet, or, which means the same thing, the rocks are upheaved on + the west side; that is, the beds that were originally horizontal have been + differentially displaced, so that on the west side of the fracture the + strata are several thousand feet higher than they are on the east side of + the fracture. The line of displacement is known as the Echo Cliff Fault. + West of this about twenty-five miles, there is another fault with its + throw to the east, the upheaved rocks being on the west. This fault varies + from 1,500 to 2,500 feet in throw, and extends far to the northward. It is + known as the East Kaibab Fault. Still going westward, another fault is + found, known as the West Kaibab Fault. Here the throw is on the west + side,--that is, the rocks are dropped down to the westward from 1,000 to + 2,000 feet. This fault gradually becomes less to the northward and is + flexed toward the east until it joins with the East Kaibab Fault. The + block between the two faults is the Kaibab Plateau. Going westward from 60 + to 70 miles, still another fault is found, known as the Hurricane Ledge + Fault. The throw is again on the west side of the fracture and the rocks + fall down some thousands of feet. This fault extends far northward into + central Utah. To the west 25 or 30 miles is found a fault with the throw + still on the west. It has a drop of several thousand feet and extends + across the Rio Colorado far to + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">94</span><a name="link94" id="link94"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the southwest, probably beyond the Arizona-New Mexico line. It also + extends far to the north, until it is buried and lost under the Pine + Valley Mountains, which are of volcanic origin. + </p> + <p> + Now let us see what all this means. In order clearly to understand this + explanation the reader is referred to the illustration designated "Section + and Bird's-Eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon." Starting + at the Grand Wash on the west, the Grand Wash Cliffs, formed by the Grand + Wash Fault, are scaled; and if we are but a few miles north of the Grand + Canyon we are on the Shiwits Plateau. Its western boundary is the Grand + Wash Cliffs, its southern boundary is the Grand Canyon, and its northern + boundary is a line of cliffs of degradation, which will be described + hereafter. Going eastward across the Shiwits Plateau the Hurricane Cliffs + are reached, and climbing them we are on the Uinkaret Plateau, which is + bounded on the south by the Grand Canyon and on the north by the Vermilion + Cliffs, that rise above its northern foot. Still going eastward 30 or 40 + miles to the brink of the Kanab Canyon, the West Kanab Plateau is crossed, + which is bounded by the Toroweap Fault on the west, separating it from the + Uinkaret Plateau, and by the Kanab Canyon on the east, with the Grand + Canyon on the south and the Vermilion Cliffs on the north. Crossing the + Kanab, we are on the East Kanab Plateau, which extends about 30 miles to + the foot of the West Kaibab Cliffs, or the escarpment of the West Kaibab + Fault. This canyon also has the Grand Canyon on the south and the + Vermilion Cliffs on the north. Climbing the West Kaibab Fault, we are on + the Kaibab Plateau. Now we have been climbing from west to east, and each + ascent has been made at a line of cliffs. Crossing the Kaibab Plateau to + the East Kaibab Cliffs; the country falls down once more to the top of + Marble Canyon Plateau. Crossing this plateau to the eastward, we at last + reach the Echo Cliff Fault, where the rocks fall down on the eastern side + once more; but the surface of the country itself does not fall down--the + later rocks still remain, and the general level of the country is + preserved except in one feature of singular interest and beauty, to + describe which a little further explanation is necessary. + </p> + <p> + I have spoken of these north-and-south faults as if they were fractures; + and usually they are fractures, but in some places they are flex- + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">95</span><a name="link95" id="link95"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-59.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-59.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + LAGOON ON THE KAIBAB. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">96</span><a name="link96" id="link96"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-60.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-60.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PINK CLIFFS, PAUNSAGUNT PLATEAU. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TEEEACES. <span class="pagenum">97</span><a name="link97" + id="link97"></a> + </p> + <p> + ures. The Echo Cliffs displacement is a flexure. Just over the zone of + flexure a long ridge extends from north to south, known as the Echo + Cliffs. It is composed of a comparatively hard and homogeneous sandstone + of a later age than the limestones of the Marble Canyon Plateau west of + it; but the flexure dips down so as to carry this sandstone which forms + the face of the cliff (presented westward) far under the surface, so that + on the east side rocks of still later age are found, the drop being + several thousand feet. The inclined red sandstone stands in a ridge more + than 75 miles in length, with an escarped face presented to the west and a + face of inclined rock to the east. The western side is carved into + beautiful alcoves and is buttressed with a magnificent talus, and the red + sandstone stands in fractured columns of giant size and marvelous beauty. + On the east side the declining beds are carved into pockets, which often + hold water. This is the region of the Thousand Wells. The foot of the + cliffs on the east side is several hundred feet above the foot of the + cliffs on the west side. On the west there is a vast limestone stretch, + the top of the Marble Canyon Plateau; on the east there are drifting + sand-dunes. + </p> + <p> + The terraced land described has three sets of terraces: one set on the + east, great steps to the Kaibab Plateau; another set on the west, from the + Great Basin region to the Kaibab Plateau; and a third set from the Grand + Canyon northward. There are thus three sets of cliffs: cliffs facing the + east, cliffs facing the west, and cliffs facing the south. The + north-and-south cliffs are made by faults; the east-and-west cliffs are + made by differential degradation. + </p> + <p> + The stupendous cliffs by which the plateaus are bounded are of + indescribable grandeur and beauty. The cliffs bounding the Kaibab Plateau + descend on either side, and this is the culminating portion of the region. + All the other plateaus are terraces, with cliffs ascending on the one side + and descending on the other. Some of the tables carry dead volcanoes on + their backs that are towering mountains, and all of them are dissected by + canyons that are gorges of profound depth. But every one of these plateaus + has characteristics peculiar to itself and is worthy of its own chapter. + On the north there is a pair of plateaus, twins in age, but very distinct + in development, the Paunsagunt and Markagunt. They are separated by the + Sevier River, which flows northward. Their + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">98</span><a name="link98" id="link98"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + southern margins constitute the highest steps of the great system of + terraces of erosion. This escarpment is known as the Pink Cliffs. Above, + pine forests are found; below the cliffs are hills and sand-dunes. The + cliffs themselves are bold and often vertical walls of a delicate pink + color. + </p> + <p> + In one of the earlier years of exploration I stood on the summit of the + Pink Cliffs of the Paunsagunt Plateau, 9,000 feet above the level of the + sea. Below me, to the southwest, I could look off into the canyons of the + Virgen River, down into the canyon of the Kanab, and far away into the + Grand Canyon of the Colorado. From the lowlands of the Great Basin and + from the depths of the Grand Canyon clouds crept up over the cliffs and + floated over the landscape below me, concealing the canyons and mantling + the mountains and mesas and buttes; still on toward me the clouds rolled, + burying the landscape in their progress, until at last the region below + was covered by a mantle of storm--a tumultuous sea of rolling clouds, + black and angry in parts, white as the foam of cataracts here and there, + and everywhere flecked with resplendent sheen. Below me spread a vast + ocean of vapor, for I was above the clouds. On descending to the plateau, + I found that a great storm had swept the land, and the dry arroyos of the + day before were the channels of a thousand streams of tawny water, born of + the ocean of vapor which had invaded the land before my vision. + </p> + <p> + Below the Pink Cliffs another irregular zone of plateaus is found, + stretching out to the margin of the Gray Cliffs. The Gray Cliffs are + composed of a homogeneous sandstone which in some places weathers gray, + but in others is as white as virgin snow. On the top of these cliffs hills + and sand-dunes are found, but everywhere on the Gray Cliff margin the + rocks are carved in fantastic forms; not in buttes and towers and + pinnacles, but in great rounded bosses of rock. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">98</span><a name="link98" id="link98_"></a> + </p> + <p> + The Virgen River heads back in the Pink Cliffs of the Markagunt Plateau + and with its tributaries crosses one of these plateaus above the Gray + Cliffs, carving a labyrinth of deep gorges. This is known as the Colob + Plateau. Above, there is a vast landscape of naked, white and gray + sandstone, billowing in fantastic bosses. On the margins of the canyons + these are rounded off into great vertical walls, and at the bottom of + every winding canyon a beautiful stream of water is found + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">99</span><a name="link99" id="link99"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-61.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-61.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A PERMIAN BUTTE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">100</span><a name="link100" id="link100"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-62.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-62.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VERMILION CLIFFS AT KANAB. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. <span class="pagenum">101</span><a name="link101" + id="link101"></a> + </p> + <p> + running over quicksands. Sometimes the streams in their curving have cut + under the rocks, and overhanging cliffs of towering altitudes are seen; + and somber chambers are found between buttresses that uphold the walls. + Among the Indians this is known as the "Rock Rovers' Land," and is peopled + by mythic beings of uncanny traits. + </p> + <p> + Below the Gray Cliffs another zone of plateaus is found, separated by the + north-and-south faults and divided from the Colob series by the Gray + Cliffs and demarcated from the plateaus to the south by the Vermilion + Cliffs. The Vermilion Cliffs that face the south are of surpassing beauty. + The rocks are of orange and red above and of chocolate, lavender, gray, + and brown tints below. The canyons that cut through the cliffs from north + to south are of great diversity and all are of profound interest. In these + canyon walls many caves are found, and often the caves contain lakelets + and pools of clear water. Canyons and re-entrant angles abound. The faces + of the cliffs are terraced and salients project onto the floors below. The + outlying buttes are many. Standing away to the south and facing these + cliffs when the sun is going down beyond the desert of the Great Basin, + shadows are seen to creep into the deep recesses, while the projecting + forms are illumined, so that the lights and shadows are in great and sharp + contrast; then a million lights seem to glow from a background of black + gloom, and a great bank of Tartarean fire stretches across the landscape. + </p> + <p> + At the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs there is everywhere a zone of vigorous + junipers and piñons, for the belt of country is favored with + comparatively abundant rain. When the clouds drift over the plateaus below + from the south and west and strike the Vermilion Cliffs, they are abruptly + lifted 2,000 feet, and to make the climb they must unload their burdens; + so that here copious rains are discharged, and by such storms the cliffs + are carved and ever from age to age carried back farther to the north. In + the Pink Cliffs above and the Gray Cliffs and the Vermilion Cliffs, there + are many notches that mark channels running northward which had their + sources on these plateaus when they extended farther to the south. The Rio + Virgen is the only stream heading in the Pink Cliffs and running into the + Colorado which is perennial. The other rivers and creeks carry streams of + water in rainy seasons only. When a succession of dry years occurs the + canyons coming through the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">102</span><a name="link102" id="link102"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + cliffs are choked below, as vast bodies of sand are deposited. But now and + then, ten or twenty years apart, great storms or successions of storms + come, and the channels are flooded and cut their way again through the + drifting sands to solid rock below. Thus the streams below are alternately + choked and cleared from period to period. + </p> + <p> + To the south of the Vermilion Cliffs the last series or zone of plateaus + north of the Grand Canyon is found. The summits of these plateaus are of + cherty limestone. In the far west we have the Shiwits Plateau covered with + sheets of lava and volcanic cones; then climbing the Hurricane Ledge we + have the Kanab Plateau, on the southwest portion of which the Uinkaret + Mountains stand--a group of dead volcanoes with many black cinder cones + scattered about. It is interesting to know how these mountains are formed. + The first eruptions of lava were long ago, and they were poured out upon a + surface 2,000 feet or more higher than the general surface now found. + After the first eruptions of coulees the lands round about were degraded + by rains and rivers. Then new eruptions occurred and additional sheets of + lava were poured out; but these came not through the first channels, but + through later ones formed about the flanks of the elder beds of lava, so + that the new sheets are imbricated or shingled over the old sheets. But + the overlap is from below upward. Then the land was further degraded, and + a third set of coulees was spread still lower down on the flanks, and on + these last coulees the black cinder cones stand. So the foundations of the + Uinkaret Mountains are of limestones, and these foundations are covered + with sheets of lava overlapping from below upward, and the last coulees + are decked with cones. + </p> + <p> + Still farther east is the Kaibab Plateau, the culminating table-land of + the region. It is covered with a beautiful forest, and in the forest + charming parks are found. Its southern extremity is a portion of the wall + of the Grand Canyon; its western margin is the wall of the West Kaibab + Fault; its eastern edge is the wall of the East Kaibab Fault; and its + northern point is found where the two faults join. Here antelope feed and + many a deer goes bounding over the fallen timber. In winter deep snows lie + here, but the plateau has four months of the sweetest summer man has ever + known. + </p> + <p> + On the terraced plateaus three tribes of Indians are found: the Shiwits + ("people of the springs"), the Uinkarets ("people of the pine + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">103</span><a name="link103" id="link103"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-63.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-63.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A MIDSUMMERDAY'S DREAM ON THE COLOB. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">104</span><a name="link104" id="link104"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + mountains"), and the Unkakaniguts ("people of the red lands," who dwell + along the Vermilion Cliffs). They are all Utes and belong to a confederacy + with other tribes living farther to the north, in Utah. These people live + in shelters made of boughs piled up in circles and covered with juniper + bark supported by poles. These little houses are only large enough for + half a dozen persons huddling together in sleep. Their aboriginal clothing + was very scant, the most important being + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-64.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-64.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN INDIAN VILLAGE. + </p> + <p> + wildcatskin and wolfskin robes for the men, and rabbitskin robes for the + women, though for occasions of festival they had clothing of tanned deer + and antelope skins, often decorated with fantastic ornaments of snake + skins, feathers, and the tails of squirrels and chipmunks. A great variety + of seeds and roots furnish their food, and on the higher plateaus there is + much game, especially deer and antelope. But the whole country abounds + with rabbits, which are often killed with arrows and + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">105</span><a name="link105" id="link105"></a> + </p> + <p> + caught in snares. Every year they have great hunts, when scores of rabbits + are killed in a single day. It is managed in this way: They make nets of + the fiber of the wild flax and of some other plant, the meshes of which + are about an inch across. These nets are about three and a half feet in + width and hundreds of yards in length. They arrange + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-65.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-65.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ANTINAINTS, PUTUSIV, AND WICHUTS, IN FESTAL DRESS. + </p> + <p> + such a net in a circle, not quite closed, supporting it by stakes and + pinning the bottom firmly to the ground. From the opening of the circle + they extend net wings, expanding in a broad angle several hundred yards + from either side. Then the entire tribe will beat up a great district of + country and drive the rabbits toward the nets, and finally into + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">106</span><a name="link106" id="link106"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the circular snare, which is quickly closed, when the rabbits are killed + with arrows. + </p> + <p> + A great variety of desert plants furnish them food, as seeds, roots, and + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-66.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-66.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF TYPICAL SOLITARY HOUSE. + </p> + <p> + stalks. More than fifty varieties of such seed-bearing plants have been + collected. The seeds themselves are roasted, ground, and preserved in + cakes. The most abundant food of this nature is derived from the sunflower + and the nuts of the piñón. They still make stone arrowheads, + stone knives, and stone hammers, and kindle fire with the drill. Their + medicine men are famous sorcerers. Coughs are caused by invisible winged + insects, rheumatism by flesh-eating bugs too small to be seen, and the + toothache by invisible worms. Their healing art consists in searing and + scarifying. Their medicine men take the medicine themselves to produce a + state of ecstasy, in which the disease pests are discovered. They also + practice dancing about their patients to drive away the evil beings or to + avert the effects of sorcery. When a child is bitten by a rattlesnake the + snake is caught and brought near to the suffering urchin, and ceremonies + are performed, all for the purpose of prevailing upon the snake to take + back the evil spirit. They have quite a variety of mythic personages. The + chief of these are the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TEBEACES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">107</span><a name="link107" id="link107"></a> + </p> + <p> + Enupits, who are pigmies dwelling about the springs, and the Rock Rovers, + who live in the cliffs. Their gods are zoic, and the chief among them are + the wolf, the rabbit, the eagle, the jay, the rattlesnake, and the spider. + They have no knowledge of the ambient air, but the winds are the breath of + beasts living in the four quarters of the earth. Whirlwinds that often + blow among the sand-dunes are caused by the dancing of Enupits. The sky is + ice, and the rain is caused by the Rainbow God; he abraids the ice of the + sky with his scales and the snow falls, and if the weather be warm the ice + melts and it is rain. The sun is a poor slave compelled to make the same + journey every day since he was conquered by the rabbit. These tribes have + a great body of romance, in which the actors are animals, and the + knowledge of these stories is the lore of their sages. + </p> + <p> + Scattered over the plateaus are the ruins of many ancient stone pueblos, + not unlike those previously described. + </p> + <p> + The Kanab River heading in the Pink Cliffs runs directly southward + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-67.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-67.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PERSPECTIVE VIEW OP ROUND-HOUSE STRUCTURE OF LAVA. + </p> + <p> + and joins the Colorado in the heart of the Grand Canyon. Its way is + through a series of canyons. From one of these it emerges at the foot of + the Vermilion Cliffs, and here stood an extensive ruin not many years ago. + Some portions of the pueblo were three stories + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">108</span><a name="link108" id="link108"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + high. The structure was one of the best found in this land of ruins. The + Mormon people settling here have used the stones of the old pueblo in + building their homes, and now no vestiges of the ancient structure remain. + A few miles below the town other ruins were found. They were scattered to + Pipe's Springs, a point twenty miles to the westward. Ruins were also + discovered up the stream as far as the Pink Cliffs, and eastward along the + Vermilion Cliffs nearly to the Colorado River, and out on the margin of + the Kanab Plateau. These were all ruins of outlying habitations be-longing + to the Kanab pueblo. From the study of the existing pueblos found + elsewhere and from extensive study of the ruins, it seems that everywhere + tribal pueblos were built of considerable dimensions, usually to give + shelter to several hundred people. Then the people cultivated the soil by + irrigation, and had + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-68.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-68.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ANCIENT CLIFF HOUSE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">109</span><a name="link109" id="link109"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-69.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-69.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑI EAGLE CAGE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">110</span><a name="link110" id="link110"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-70.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-70.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A VIEW OF <span class="font20">ZUÑI.</span> + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">111</span><a name="link111" id="link111"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. + </p> + <p> + their gardens and little fields scattered at wide distances about the + central pueblo, by little springs and streams and wherever they could + control the water with little labor to bring it on the land. At such + points stone houses were erected sufficient to accommodate from one to two + thousand people, and these were occupied during the season of cultivation + and are known as rancherías. So one great tribe had its central + pueblo and its outlying rancherías. Sometimes the rancherías + were occupied from year to year, especially in time of peace, but usually + they were occupied only during seasons of cultivation. Such groups of + ruins and pueblos with accessory rancherías are still inhabited, + and have been described as found throughout the Plateau Province except + far to the north beyond the Uinta Mountains. A great pueblo once existed + in the Uinta Valley on the south side of the mountains. This is the most + northern pueblo which has yet been discovered. But the pueblo-building + tribes extended beyond the area drained by the Colorado. On the west there + was a pueblo in the Great Basin at the site now occupied by Salt Lake + City, and several more to the southward, all on waters flowing into the + desert. On the east such pueblos were found among mountains at the + headwaters of the Arkansas, Platte, and Canadian rivers. The entire area + drained by the Rio Grande del Norte was occupied by pueblo tribes, and a + number are still inhabited. To the south they extended far beyond the + territory of the United States, and the so-called Aztec cities were rather + superior pueblos of this character. The known pueblo tribes of the United + States belong to several different linguistic stocks. They are far from + being one homogeneous people, for they have not only different languages + but different religions and worship different gods. These pueblo peoples + are in a higher grade of culture than most Indian tribes of the United + States. This is exhibited in the slight superiority of their arts, + especially in their architecture. It is also noticeable in their mythology + and religion. Their gods, the heroes of their myths, are more often + personifications of the powers and phenomena of nature, and their + religious ceremonies are more elaborate, and their cult societies are + highly organized. As they had begun to domesticate animals and to + cultivate the soil, so as to obtain a part of their subsistence by + agriculture, they had almost accomplished the ascent from savagery + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">112</span><a name="link112" id="link112"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-71.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-71.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WALPI DANCE ROCK. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CLIFFS AND TERRACES. <span class="pagenum">113</span><a name="link113" + id="link113"></a> + </p> + <p> + to barbarism when first discovered by the invading European. All the + Indians of North America were in this state of transition, but the pueblo + tribes had more nearly reached the higher goal. + </p> + <p> + The great number of ruins found throughout the land has often been + interpreted as evidence of a much larger pueblo population than has been + found in post-Columbian time. But a careful study of the facts does not + warrant this conclusion. It would seem that for various reasons tribes + abandoned old pueblos and built new, thus changing their permanent + residence from time to time; but more frequent changes were made in their + rancherias. These were but ephemeral, being moved from place to place by + the varying conditions of water supply. Most of the streams of the arid + land are not perennial, but very many of the smaller streams of the pueblo + region discharge their waters into the larger streams in times of great + flood. Such floods occur now here, now there, and at varying periods, + sometimes fifty years apart. When dry years follow one another for a long + series, the channels of these intermittent streams are choked with sand + until the streams are buried and lost. Under such circumstances the + rancherias were moved from dead stream to living stream. In rare instances + pueblos themselves were removed for this cause. Other pueblos, and the + rancherias generally, were abandoned in time of war; this seems to have + been a potent cause for moving. When pestilence attacked a pueblo the + people would sometimes leave in a body and never return. The cliff pueblos + and dwellings, the cavate dwellings, and the cinder-cone towns were all + built and occupied for defensive purposes when powerful enemies + threatened. The history of some of the old ruins has been obtained and we + know the existing tribes who once occupied them; others still remain + enshrouded in obscurity. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">114</span><a name="link114" id="link114"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-72.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-72.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A PASSAGEWAY IN WALPI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">115</span><a name="link115" id="link115"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE HURRICANE FAULT. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-73.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-73.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TOWERS OF THE VERMILION CLIFFS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">116</span><a name="link116" id="link116"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-74.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-74.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TEMPLES AND TOWERS OF THE RIO VIRGEN. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">117</span><a name="link117" id="link117"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-75.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-75.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PANORAMA. UPPER VIEW LOOKING EAST, WITH THE GRAND CANYON IN THE DISTANCE. + LOWER VIEW LOOKING DOWN THE TOROWEAP. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">118</span><a name="link118" id="link118"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-76.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-76.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A PASSAGEWAY IN MASHONGNAVI + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">119<a name="link119" id="link119"></a> </span> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-77.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-77.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TERRACED HOUSES IN ZUÑI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">120</span><a name="link120" id="link120"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER V. + </p> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + IN the summer of 1867, with a small party of naturalists, students, and + amateurs like myself, I visited the mountain region of Colorado Territory. + While in Middle Park I explored a little canyon through which the Grand + River runs, immediately below the now well-known watering place, Middle + Park Hot Springs. Later in the fall I passed through Cedar Canyon, the + gorge by which the Grand leaves the park. A result of the summer's study + was to kindle a desire to explore the canyons of the Grand, Green, and + Colorado rivers, and the next summer I organized an expedition with the + intention of penetrating still farther into that canyon country. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the snows were melted, so that the main range could be crossed, + I went over into Middle Park, and proceeded thence down the Grand to the + head of Cedar Canyon, then across the Park Range by Gore's Pass, and in + October found myself and party encamped on the White River, about 120 + miles above its mouth. At that point I built cabins and established winter + quarters, intending to occupy the cold season, as far as possible, in + exploring the adjacent country. The winter of 1868-69 proved favorable to + my purposes, and several excursions were made, southward to the Grand, + down the White to the Green, northward to the Yampa, and around the Uinta + Mountains. During these several excursions I seized every opportunity to + study the canyons through which these upper streams run, and while thus + engaged formed plans for the exploration of the canyons of the Colorado. + Since that time I have been engaged in executing these plans, sometimes + employed in the field, sometimes in the office. Begun originally as an + exploration, the work was finally developed into a survey, embracing the + geography, geology, ethnography, and natural + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">121</span><a name="link121" id="link121"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-78.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-78.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE START FROM GREEN RIVER STATION. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. <span> </span> + </p> + <p> + history of the country, and a number of gentlemen have, from time to time, + assisted me in the work. + </p> + <p> + Early in the spring of 1869 a party was organized for the exploration of + the canyons. Boats were built in Chicago and transported by rail to the + point where the Union Pacific Railroad crosses the Green River. With these + we were to descend the Green to the Colorado, and the Colorado down to the + foot of the Grand Canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 24, 1869.--</i>The good people of Green River City turn out to see + us start. We raise our little flag, push the boats from shore, and the + swift current carries us down. + </p> + <p> + Our boats are four in number. Three are built of oak; stanch and firm; + double-ribbed, with double stem and stern posts, and further strengthened + by bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments. Two of these, the + fore and aft, are decked, forming water-tight cabins. It is expected these + will buoy the boats should the waves roll over them in rough water. The + fourth boat is made of pine, very light, but 16 feet in length, with a + sharp cutwater, and every way built for fast rowing, and divided into + compartments as the others. The little vessels are 21 feet long, and, + taking out the cargoes, can be carried by four men. + </p> + <p> + We take with us rations deemed sufficient to last ten months, for we + expect, when winter comes on and the river is filled with ice, to lie over + at some point until spring arrives; and so we take with us abundant + supplies of clothing, likewise. We have also a large quantity of + ammunition and two or three dozen traps. For the purpose of building + cabins, repairing boats, and meeting other exigencies, we are supplied + with axes, hammers, saws, augers, and other tools, and a quantity of nails + and screws. For scientific work, we have two sextants, four chronometers, + a number of barometers, thermometers, compasses, and other instruments. + </p> + <p> + The flour is divided into three equal parts; the meat, and all other + articles of our rations, in the same way. Each of the larger boats has an + axe, hammer, saw, auger, and other tools, so that all are loaded alike. We + distribute the cargoes in this way that we may not be entirely destitute + of some important article should any one of the boats be lost. In the + small boat we pack a part of the scientific + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">122</span><a name="link122" id="link122"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + instruments, three guns, and three small bundles of clothing, only; and in + this I proceed in advance to explore the channel. + </p> + <p> + J. C. Sumner and William H. Dunn are my boatmen in the "Emma Dean"; then + follows "Kitty Clyde's Sister," manned by W. H. Powell and G. Y. Bradley; + next, the "No Name," with O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, and Frank + Goodman; and last comes the "Maid of the Canyon," with W. E. Hawkins and + Andrew Hall. + </p> + <p> + Sumner was a soldier during the late war, and before and since that time + has been a great traveler in the wilds of the Mississippi Valley and the + Rocky Mountains as an amateur hunter. He is a fair-haired, + delicate-looking man, but a veteran in experience, and has performed the + feat of crossing the Rocky Mountains in midwinter on snowshoes. He spent + the winter of 1886-87 in Middle Park, Colorado, for the purpose of making + some natural history collections for me, and succeeded in killing three + grizzlies, two mountain lions, and a large number of elk, deer, sheep, + wolves, beavers, and many other animals. When Bayard Taylor traveled + through the parks of Colorado, Sumner was his guide, and he speaks in + glowing terms of Mr. Taylor's genial qualities in camp, but he was + mortally offended when the great traveler requested him to act as + doorkeeper at Breckenridge to receive the admission fee from those who + attended his lectures. + </p> + <p> + Dunn was a hunter, trapper, and mule-packer in Colorado for many years. He + dresses in buckskin with a dark oleaginous luster, doubtless due to the + fact that he has lived on fat venison and killed many beavers since he + first donned his uniform years ago. His raven hair falls down to his back, + for he has a sublime contempt of shears and razors. + </p> + <p> + Captain Powell was an officer of artillery during the late war and was + captured on the 22d day of July, 1864, at Atlanta and served a ten months' + term in prison at Charleston, where he was placed with other officers + under fire. He is silent, moody, and sarcastic, though sometimes he + enlivens the camp at night with a song. He is never surprised at anything, + his coolness never deserts him, and he would choke the belching throat of + a volcano if he thought the spitfire meant anything but fun. We call him + <i>"</i>Old Shady." + </p> + <p> + Bradley, a lieutenant during the late war, and since orderly sergeant + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + </p> + <p> + in the regular army, was, a few weeks previous to our start, discharged, + by order of the Secretary of War, that he might go on this trip. He is + scrupulously careful, and a little mishap works him into a passion, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-79.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-79.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VIEW IN SICHUMOVI. + </p> + <p> + but when labor is needed he has a ready hand and powerful arm, and in + danger, rapid judgment and unerring skill. A great difficulty or peril + changes the petulant spirit into a brave, generous soul. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-80.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-80.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TRAIL UP WALPI MESA. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN EIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">123</span><a name="link123" id="link123"></a> + </p> + <p> + O. G. Howland is a printer by trade, an editor by profession, and a hunter + by choice. When busily employed he usually puts his hat in his pocket, and + his thin hair and long beard stream in the wind, giving him a wild look, + much like that of King Lear in an illustrated copy of Shakespeare which + tumbles around the camp. + </p> + <p> + Seneca Howland is a quiet, pensive young man, and a great favorite with + all. + </p> + <p> + Goodman is a stranger to us--a stout, willing Englishman, with florid face + and more florid anticipations of a glorious trip. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-81.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-81.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RIDGES ON BITTER CREEK. + </p> + <p> + Billy Hawkins, the cook, was a soldier in the Union Army during the war, + and when discharged at its close went West, and since then has been + engaged as teamster on the plains or hunter in the mountains. He is an + athlete and a jovial good fellow, who hardly seems to know his own + strength. + </p> + <p> + Hall is a Scotch boy, nineteen years old, with what seems to us a + "secondhand head," which doubtless came down to him from some knight who + wore it during the Border Wars. It looks a very old head indeed, with + deep-set blue eyes and beaked nose. Young as he is, Hall has had + experience in hunting, trapping, and fighting Indians, and he makes the + most of it, for he can tell a good story, and is never encumbered by + unnecessary scruples in giving to his narratives those embellishments + which help to make a story complete. He is always ready for work or play + and is a good hand at either. + </p> + <p> + Our boats are heavily loaded, and only with the utmost care is it pos- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">124</span><a name="link124" id="link124"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + sible to float in the rough river without shipping water. A mile or two + below town we run on a sandbar. The men jump into the stream and thus + lighten the vessels, so that they drift over, and on we go. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-82.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-82.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MESAS. + </p> + <p> + In trying to avoid a rock an oar is broken on one of the boats, and, thus + crippled, she strikes. The current is swift and she is sent reeling and + rocking into the eddy. In the confusion two other oars are lost overboard, + and the men seem quite discomfited, much to the amusement of the other + members of the party. Catching the oars and starting again, the boats are + once more borne down the stream, until we land at a small cottonwood grove + on the bank and camp for noon. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon we run down to a point where the river sweeps the + foot of an overhanging cliff, and here we camp for the night. The sun is + yet two hours high, so I climb the cliffs and walk back among the + strangely carved rocks of the Green River bad lands. These are sandstones + and shales, gray and buff, red and brown, blue and black strata in many + alternations, lying nearly horizontal, and almost without soil and + vegetation. They are very friable, and the rain and streams have carved + them into quaint shapes. Barren desolation is stretched before me; and yet + there is a beauty in the scene. The fantastic carvings, imitating + architectural forms and suggesting rude but weird + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">125</span><a name="link125" id="link125"></a> + </p> + <p> + statuary, with the bright and varied colors of the rocks, conspire to make + a scene such as the dweller in verdure-clad hills can scarcely appreciate. + </p> + <p> + Standing on a high point, I can look off in every direction over a vast + landscape, with salient rocks and cliffs glittering in the evening sun. + Dark shadows are settling in the valleys and gulches, and the heights are + made higher and the depths deeper by the glamour and witchery of light and + shade. Away to the south the Uinta Mountains stretch in a long line,--high + peaks thrust into the sky, and snow fields glittering like lakes of molten + silver, and pine forests in somber green, and rosy clouds playing around + the borders of huge, black masses; and heights and clouds and mountains + and snow fields and forests and rock-lands are blended into one grand + view. Now the sun goes down, and I return to camp. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 25.</i>--We start early this morning and run along at a good + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-83.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-83.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A VALLEY WEST OF GREEN RIVER. + </p> + <p> + rate until about nine o'clock, when we are brought up on a gravelly bar. + All jump out and help the boats over by main strength. Then a rain comes + on, and river and clouds conspire to give us a thorough drenching. Wet, + chilled, and tired to exhaustion, we stop at a cotton- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">126</span><a name="link126" id="link126"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLCHADO. + </p> + <p> + wood grove on the bank, build a huge fire, make a cup of coffee, and are + soon refreshed and quite merry. When the clouds "get out of our sunshine" + we start again. A few miles farther down a flock of mountain sheep are + seen on a cliff to the right. The boats are quietly tied up and three or + four men go after them. In the course of two + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-84.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-84.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ALCOVE LANDS. + </p> + <p> + or three hours they return. The cook has been successful in bringing down + a fat lamb. The unsuccessful hunters taunt him with finding it dead; but + it is soon dressed, cooked, and eaten, and makes a fine four o'clock + dinner. + </p> + <p> + "All aboard," and down the river for another dozen miles. On the way we + pass the mouth of Black's Fork, a dirty little stream that seems somewhat + swollen. Just below its mouth we land and camp. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 26.--</i>To-day we pass several curiously shaped buttes, standing + between the west bank of the river and the high bluffs beyond. These + buttes are outliers of the same beds of rocks as are exposed on the faces + of the bluffs,--thinly laminated shales and sandstones of many colors, + standing above in vertical cliffs and buttressed below with a water-carved + talus; some of them attain an altitude of nearly a thousand feet above the + level of the river. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">127</span><a name="link127" id="link127"></a> + </p> + <p> + We glide quietly down the placid stream past the carved cliffs of the <i>mauvaises + terres,</i> now and then obtaining glimpses of distant mountains. + Occasionally, deer are started from the glades among the willows; and + several wild geese, after a chase through the water, are shot. After + dinner we pass through a short and narrow canyon into a broad valley; from + this, long, lateral valleys stretch back on either side as far as the eye + can reach. + </p> + <p> + Two or three miles below, Henry's Fork enters from the right. We land a + short distance above the junction, where a <i>cache</i> of instruments and + rations was made several months ago in a cave at the foot of the cliff, a + distance back from the river. Here they were safe from the elements and + wild beasts, but not from man. Some anxiety is + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-85.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-85.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + BAD LANDS. + </p> + <p> + felt, as we have learned that a party of Indians have been camped near the + place for several weeks. Our fears are soon allayed, for we find the <i>cache</i> + undisturbed. Our chronometer wheels have not been taken for hair + ornaments, our barometer tubes for beads, or the sextant thrown into the + river as "bad medicine," as had been predicted. Taking up our <i>cache,</i> + we pass down to the foot of the Uinta Mountains and in a cold storm go + into camp. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">128</span><a name="link128" id="link128"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + The river is running to the south; the mountains have an easterly and + westerly trend directly athwart its course, yet it glides on in a quiet + way as if it thought a mountain range no formidable obstruction. It enters + the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the + north a score of miles away. The great mass of the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-86.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-86.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OUR INDIAN GUIDE. + </p> + <p> + mountain ridge through which the gorge is cut is composed of bright + vermilion rocks; but they are surmounted by broad bands of mottled buff + and gray, and these bands come down with a gentle curve to the water's + edge on the nearer slope of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + This is the head of the first of the canyons we are about to explore--an + introductory one to a series made by the river through this + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">129</span><a name="link129" id="link129"></a> + </p> + <p> + range. We name it Flaming Gorge. The cliffs, or walls, we find on + measurement to be about 1,200 feet high. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 27.--</i>To-day it rains, and we employ the time in repairing one + of our barometers, which was broken on the way from New York. A new tube + has to be put in; that is, a long glass tube has to be filled with + mercury, four or five inches at a time, and each installment boiled + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-87.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-87.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OUR GUIDE'S BOY. + </p> + <p> + over a spirit lamp. It is a delicate task to do this without breaking the + glass; but we have success, and are ready to measure mountains once more. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 28.--</i>To-day we go to the summit of the cliff on the left and + take observations for altitude, and are variously employed in topographic + and geologic work. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">130</span><a name="link130" id="link130"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 29.--</i>This morning Bradley and I cross the river and climb more + than a thousand feet to a point where we can see the stream sweeping in a + long, beautiful curve through the gorge below. Turning and looking to the + west, we can see the valley of Henry's Fork, through which, for many + miles, the little river flows in a tortuous channel. Cottonwood groves are + planted here and there along its course, and between them are stretches of + grass land. The narrow mountain valley is inclosed on either side by + sloping walls of naked rock of many + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-88.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-88.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GREEN RIVER PLAINS. + </p> + <p> + bright colors. To the south of the valley are the Uintas, and the peaks of + the Wasatch Mountains can be faintly seen in the far west. To the north, + desert plains, dotted here and there with curiously carved hills and + buttes, extend to the limit of vision. + </p> + <p> + For many years this valley has been the home of a number of mountaineers, + who were originally hunters and trappers, living with the Indians. Most of + them have one or more Indian wives. They no longer roam with the nomadic + tribes in pursuit of buckskin or beaver, but have accumulated herds of + cattle and horses, and consider themselves quite well to do. Some of them + have built cabins; others + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">131</span><a name="link131" id="link131"></a> + </p> + <p> + still live in lodges. John Baker is one of the most famous of these men, + and from our point of view we can see his lodge, three or four miles up + the river. + </p> + <p> + The distance from Green River City to Flaming Gorge is 62 miles. The river + runs between bluffs, in some places standing so close to each other that + no flood plain is seen. At such a point the river might properly be said + to run through a canyon. The bad lands on either side are interrupted here + and there by patches of <i>Artemisia,</i> or sage brush. Where there is a + flood plain along either side of the river, a few cottonwoods may be seen. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-89.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-89.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE CHIEF KIVA OF SHUPAULOVI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">132</span><a name="link132" id="link132"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-90.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-90.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WALPI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">133</span><a name="link133" id="link133"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CHAPTER VI. + </p> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + ONE must not think of a mountain range as a line of peaks standing on a + plain, but as a broad platform many miles wide from which mountains have + been carved by the waters. One must conceive, too, that this plateau is + cut by gulches and canyons in many directions and that beautiful valleys + are scattered about at different altitudes. The first series of canyons we + are about to explore constitutes a river channel through such a range of + mountains. The canyon is cut nearly halfway through the range, then turns + to the east and is cut along the central line, or axis, gradually crossing + it to the south. Keeping this direction for more than 50 miles, it then + turns abruptly to a southwest course, and goes diagonally through the + southern slope of the range. + </p> + <p> + This much we know before entering, as we made a partial exploration of the + region last fall, climbing many of its peaks, and in a few places reaching + the brink of the canyon walls and looking over precipices many hundreds of + feet high to the water below. + </p> + <p> + Here and there the walls are broken by lateral canyons, the channels of + little streams entering the river. Through two or three of these we found + our way down to the Green in early winter and walked along the low + water-beach at the foot of the cliffs for several miles. Where the river + has this general easterly direction the western part only has cut for + itself a canyon, while the eastern has formed a broad valley, called, in + honor of an old-time trapper, Brown's Park, and long known as a favorite + winter resort for mountain men and Indians. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 30.--</i>This morning we are ready to enter the mysterious canyon, + and start with some anxiety. The old mountaineers tell us that it cannot + be run; the Indians say, "Water heap catch 'em"; but all are eager for the + trial, and off we go. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">134</span><a name="link134" id="link134"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + Entering Flaming Gorge, we quickly run through it on a swift current and + emerge into a little park. Half a mile below, the river wheels sharply to + the left and enters another canyon cut into the mountain. We enter the + narrow passage. On either side the walls rapidly increase in altitude. On + the left are overhanging ledges and cliffs,--500, 1,000, 1,500 feet high. + </p> + <p> + On the right the rocks are broken and ragged, and the water fills the + channel from cliff to cliff. Now the river turns abruptly around a point + to the right, and the waters plunge swiftly down among great rocks; and + here we have our first experience with canyon rapids. I stand up on the + deck of my boat to seek a way among the wave-beaten rocks. All untried as + we are with such waters, the moments are filled with intense anxiety. Soon + our boats reach the swift current; a stroke or two, now on this. side, now + on that, and we thread the narrow passage with exhilarating Velocity, + mounting the high waves, whose foaming crests dash over us, and plunging + into the troughs, until we reach the quiet water below. Then comes a + feeling of great relief. Our first rapid is run. Another mile, and we come + into the valley again. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-91.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-91.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CAMP AT FLAMING GORGE + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">135</span><a name="link135" id="link135"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-92.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-92.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MASHONGNAVI, WITH SHUPAULOVI IN THE DISTANCE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">136</span><a name="link136" id="link136"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-93.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-93.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + HORSESHOE CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">137</span><a + name="link137" id="link137"></a> + </p> + <p> + Let me explain this canyon. Where the river turns to the left above, it + takes a course directly into the mountain, penetrating to its very heart, + then wheels back upon itself, and runs out into the valley from which it + started only half a mile below the point at which it entered; so the + canyon is in the form of an elongated letter U, with the apex in the + center of the mountain. We name it Horseshoe Canyon. + </p> + <p> + Soon we leave the valley and enter another short canyon, very narrow at + first, but widening below as the canyon walls increase in height. Here we + discover the mouth of a beautiful little creek coming down through its + narrow water-worn cleft. Just at its entrance there is a park of two or + three hundred acres, walled on every side by almost vertical cliffs + hundreds of feet in altitude, with three gateways through the walls--one + up the river, another down, and a third through which the creek comes in. + The river is broad, deep, and quiet, and its waters mirror towering rocks. + </p> + <p> + Kingfishers are playing about the streams, and so we adopt as names + Kingfisher Creek, Kingfisher Park, and Kingfisher Canyon. At night we camp + at the foot of this canyon. + </p> + <p> + Our general course this day has been south, but here the river turns to + the east around a point which is rounded to the shape of a dome. On its + sides little cells have been carved by the action of the water, and in + these pits, which cover the face of the dome, hundreds of swallows have + built their nests. As they flit about the cliffs, they look like swarms of + bees, giving to the whole the appearance of a colossal beehive of the + old-time form, and so we name it Beehive Point. + </p> + <p> + The opposite wall is a vast amphitheater, rising in a succession of + terraces to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet. Each step is built of red + sandstone, with a face of naked red rock and a glacis clothed with + verdure. So the amphitheater seems banded red and green, and the evening + sun is playing with roseate flashes on the rocks, with shimmering green on + the cedars' spray, and with iridescent gleams on the dancing waves. The + landscape revels in the sunshine. + </p> + <p> + <i>May 31.--</i>We start down another canyon and reach rapids made + dangerous by high rocks lying in the channel; so we run ashore and let our + boats down with lines. In the afternoon we come to more dangerous rapids + and stop to examine them. I find we must do the same work + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">138</span><a name="link138" id="link138"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + again, but, being on the wrong side of the river to obtain a foothold, + must first cross over--no very easy matter in such a current, with rapids + and rocks below. We take the pioneer boat, "Emma Dean," over, and unload + her on the bank; then she returns and takes another load. Running back and + forth, she soon has half our cargo over. Then one of the larger boats is + manned and taken across, but is carried down almost to the rocks in spite + of hard rowing. The other boats follow and make the landing, and we go + into camp for the night. + </p> + <p> + At the foot of the cliff on this side there is a long slope covered with + pines; under these we make our beds, and soon after sunset are seeking + rest and sleep. The cliffs on either side are of red sandstone and stretch + toward the heavens 2,500 feet. On this side the long, pine-clad slope is + surmounted by perpendicular cliffs, with pines on their summits. The wall + on the other side is bare rock from the water's edge up 2,000 feet, then + slopes back, giving footing to pines and cedars. + </p> + <p> + As the twilight deepens, the rocks grow dark and somber; the threatening + roar of the water is loud and constant, and I lie awake with thoughts of + the morrow and the canyons to come, interrupted now and then by + characteristics of the scenery that attract my attention. And here I make + a discovery. On looking at the mountain directly in front, the steepness + of the slope is greatly exaggerated, while the distance to its summit and + its true altitude are correspondingly diminished. I have heretofore found + that to judge properly of the slope of a mountain side, one must see it in + profile. In coming down the river this afternoon, I observed the slope of + a particular part of the wall and made an estimate of its altitude. While + at supper, I noticed the same cliff from a position facing it, and it + seemed steeper, but not half so high. Now lying on my side and looking at + it, the true proportions appear. This seems a wonder, and I rise to take a + view of it standing. It is the same cliff as at supper time. Lying down + again, it is the cliff as seen in profile, with a long slope and distant + summit. Musing on this, I forget "the morrow and the canyons to come"; I + have found a way to estimate the altitude and slope of an inclination, in + like manner as I can judge of distance along the horizon. The reason is + simple. A reference to the stereoscope will + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GOEGE TO THE GATE OF LODOEE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">139</span><a name="link139" id="link139"></a> + </p> + <p> + suggest it. The distance between the eyes forms a base line for optical + triangulation. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 1.--</i>To-day we have an exciting ride. The river rolls down the + canyon at a wonderful rate, and, with no rocks in the way, we make + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">140</span><a name="link140" id="link140"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-94.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-94.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SCENE IN HAND. + </p> + <p> + almost railroad speed. Here and there the water rushes into a narrow + gorge; the rocks on the side roll it into the center in great waves, and + the boats go leaping and bounding over these like things of life, + reminding me of scenes witnessed in Middle Park--herds of startled deer + bounding through forests beset with fallen timber. I + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">140</span><a name="link140" id="link140_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-95.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-95.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PESCADO PUEBLO----OUTSIDE STEPS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">141</span><a name="link141" id="link141"></a> + </p> + <p> + mention the resemblance to some of the hunters, and so striking is it that + the expression, "See the blacktails jumping the logs," comes to be a + common one. At times the waves break and roll over the boats, which + necessitates much bailing and obliges us to stop occasionally for that + purpose. At one time we run twelve miles in an hour, stoppages included. + </p> + <p> + Last spring I had a conversation with an old Indian named Páriate, + who told me about one of his tribe attempting to run this canyon. "The + rocks," he said, holding his hands above his head, his arms vertical, and + looking between them to the heavens, "the rocks h-e-a-p, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-96.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-96.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OVEN NEAR PESCADO PUEBLO. + </p> + <p> + h-e-a-p high; the water go h-oo-woogh, h-oo-woogh; water-pony li-e-a-p + buck; water catch 'em; no see 'em Injun any more! no see 'em squaw any + more! no see 'em papoose any more!" + </p> + <p> + Those who have seen these wild Indian ponies rearing alternately before + and behind, or "bucking," as it is called in the vernacular, will + appreciate his description. + </p> + <p> + At last we come to calm water, and a threatening roar is heard in the + distance. Slowly approaching the point whence the sound issues, we come + near to falls, and tie up just above them on the left. Here we shall be + compelled to make a portage; so we unload the boats, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">142</span><a name="link142" id="link142"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-97.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-97.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PRIMITIVE ANDIRON IN SHUMOPAVI. + </p> + <p> + and fasten a long line to the bow of the smaller one, and another to the + stern, and moor her close to the brink of the fall. Then the bowline is + taken below and made fast; the stern line is held by five or six men, and + the boat let down as long as they can hold her against the rushing waters; + then, letting go one end of the line, it runs through the ring; the boat + leaps over the fall and is caught by the lower rope. + </p> + <p> + Now we rest for the night. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 2.--</i>This morning we make a trail among the rocks, transport + the cargoes to a point below the fall, let the remaining boats over, and + are ready to start before noon. + </p> + <p> + On a high rock by which the trail passes we find the inscription: "Ashley + 18-5." The third figure is obscure--some of the party reading it 1835, + some 1855. James Baker, an old-time mountaineer, once told me about a + party of men starting down the river, and Ashley was + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">143</span><a name="link143" id="link143"></a> + </p> + <p> + named as one. The story runs that the boat was swamped, and some of the + party drowned in one of the canyons below. The word "Ashley" is a warning + to us, and we resolve on great caution. Ashley Falls is the name we give + to the cataract. + </p> + <p> + The river is very narrow, the right wall vertical for 200 or 300 feet, the + left towering to a great height, with a vast pile of broken rocks lying + between the foot of the cliff and the water. Some of the rocks broken down + from the ledge above have tumbled into the channel and caused this fall. + One great cubical block, thirty or forty feet high, stands in the middle + of the stream, and the waters, parting to either side, plunge down about + twelve feet, and are broken again by the smaller rocks into a rapid below. + Immediately below the falls the water occupies the entire channel, there + being no talus at the foot of the cliffs. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-98.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-98.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN HEALING-STONES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">144</span><a name="link144" id="link144"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-99.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-99.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + K1VA AND STONE CORRALS OF MASHONGNAVI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">145</span><a + name="link145" id="link145"></a> + </p> + <p> + We embark and run down a short distance, where we find a landing-place for + dinner. + </p> + <p> + On the waves again all the afternoon. Near the lower end of this canyon, + to which we have given the name of Red Canyon, is a little park, where + streams come down from distant mountain summits and enter the river on + either side; and here we camp for the night under two stately pines. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 3.--</i>This morning we spread our rations, clothes, etc., on the + ground to dry, and several of the party go out for a hunt. I take a walk + of five or six miles up to a pine-grove park, its grassy carpet bedecked + with crimson velvet flowers, set in groups on the stems of pear-shaped + cactus plants; patches of painted cups are seen here and there, with + yellow blossoms protruding through scarlet bracts; little blue-eyed + flowers are peeping through the grass; and the air is filled with + fragrance from the white blossoms of the <i>Spiraea.</i> A mountain brook + runs through the midst, ponded below by beaver dams. It is a quiet place + for retirement from the raging waters of the canyon. + </p> + <p> + It will be remembered that the course of the river from Flaming Gorge to + Beehive Point is in a southerly direction and at right angles to the Uinta + Mountains, and cuts into the range until it reaches a point within five + miles of the crest, where it turns to the east and pursues a course not + quite parallel to the trend of the range, but crosses the axis slowly in a + direction a little south of east. Thus there is a triangular tract between + the river and the axis of the mountain, with its acute angle extending + eastward. I climb the mountain overlooking this country. To the east the + peaks are not very high, and already most of the snow has melted, but + little patches lie here and there under the lee of ledges of rock. To the + west the peaks grow higher and the snow fields larger. Between the brink + of the canyon and the foot of these peaks, there is a high bench. A number + of creeks have their sources in the snowbanks to the south and run north + into the canyon, tumbling down from 3,000 to 5,000 feet in a distance of + five or six miles. Along their upper courses they run through grassy + valleys, but as they approach Red Canyon they rapidly disappear under the + general surface of the country, and emerge into the canyon below in + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">146</span><a name="link146" id="link146"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + deep, dark gorges of their own. Each of these short lateral canyons is + marked by a succession of cascades and a wild confusion of rocks and trees + and fallen timber and thick undergrowth. + </p> + <p> + The little valleys above are beautiful parks; between the parks are + stately pine forests, half hiding ledges of red sandstone. Mule deer and + elk abound; grizzly bears, too, are abundant; and here wild cats, + wolverines, and mountain lions are at home. The forest aisles are filled + with the music of birds, and the parks are decked + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-100.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-100.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + "HOGBACKS," WITH INTERVENING VALLEYS. + </p> + <p> + with flowers. Noisy brooks meander through them; ledges of moss-covered + rocks are seen; and gleaming in the distance are the snow fields, and the + mountain tops are away in the clouds. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 4-</i>--We start early and run through to Brown's Park. Halfway + down the valley, a spur of a red mountain stretches across the river, + which cuts a canyon through it. Here the walls are comparatively low, but + vertical. A vast number of swallows have built their <i>adobe</i> houses + on the face of the cliffs, on either side of the river. The waters are + deep and quiet, but the swallows are swift and noisy enough, sweeping by + in their curved paths through the air or chattering from the rocks, while + the young ones stretch their little heads on naked necks + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">147</span><a + name="link147" id="link147"></a> + </p> + <p> + through the doorways of their mud houses and clamor for food. They are a + noisy people. We call this Swallow Canyon. + </p> + <p> + Still down the river we glide until an early hour in the afternoon, when + we go into camp under a giant cottonwood standing on the right bank a + little way back from the stream. The party has succeeded in killing a fine + lot of wild ducks, and during the afternoon a mess of fish is taken. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 5.</i>--With one of the men I climb a mountain, off on the right. + A long spur, with broken ledges of rock, puts down to the river, and along + its course, or up the "hogback," as it is called, I make the ascent. Dunn, + who is climbing to the same point, is coming up the gulch. Two hours' hard + work has brought us to the summit. These mountains are all verdure-clad; + pine and cedar forests are set on green terraces; snow-clad mountains are + seen in the distance, to the west; the plains of the upper Green stretch + out before us to the north until they are lost in the blue heavens; but + half of the river-cleft range intervenes, and the river itself is at our + feet. + </p> + <p> + This half range, beyond the river, is composed of long ridges nearly + parallel with the valley. On the farther ridge, to the north, four creeks + have their sources. These cut through the intervening ridges, one of which + is much higher than that on which they head, by canyon gorges; then they + run with gentle curves across the valley, their banks set with willows, + box-elders, and cottonwood groves. To the east we look up the valley of + the Vermilion, through which Fremont found his path on his way to the + great parks of Colorado. + </p> + <p> + The reading of the barometer taken, we start down in company, and reach + camp tired and hungry, which does not abate one bit our enthusiasm as we + tell of the day's work with its glory of landscape. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 6.</i>--At daybreak I am awakened by a chorus of birds. It seems + as if all the feathered songsters of the region have come to the old tree. + Several species of warblers, woodpeckers, and flickers above, meadow larks + in the grass, and wild geese in the river. I recline on my elbow and watch + a lark near by, and then awaken my bedfellow, to listen to my Jenny Lind. + A real morning concert for <i>me;</i> none of your <i>"matinées"!</i> + </p> + <p> + Our cook has been an ox-driver, or "bull-whacker," on the plains, in + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">148</span><a name="link148" id="link148"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-101.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-101.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ANCIENT PUEBLO METATE. + </p> + <p> + one of those long trains now no longer seen, and he hasn't forgotten his + old ways. In the midst of the concert, his voice breaks in: "Roll out! + roll out! bulls in the corral! chain up the gaps! Roll out! roll out! roll + out!" And this is our breakfast bell. + </p> + <p> + To-day we pass through, the park, and camp at the head of another canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 7.--</i>To-day two or three of us climb to the summit of the cliff + on the left, and find its altitude above camp to be 2,086 feet. The rocks + are split with fissures, deep and narrow, sometimes a hundred feet or more + to the bottom, and these fissures are filled with loose earth and decayed + vegetation in which lofty pines find root. On a rock we find a pool of + clear, cold water, caught from yesterday evening's shower. After a good + drink we walk out to the brink of the canyon and look down to the water + below. I can do this now, but it has taken several years of mountain + climbing to cool my nerves so that I can sit with my feet over the edge + and calmly look down a precipice 2,000 feet. And yet I cannot look on and + see another do the same. I must either bid him come away or turn my head. + The canyon walls are buttressed on a grand scale, with deep alcoves + intervening; columned crags crown the cliffs, and the river is rolling + below. + </p> + <p> + When we return to camp at noon the sun shines in splendor on vermilion + walls, shaded into green and gray where the rocks are lichened over; the + river fills the channel from wall to wall, and the canyon opens, like a + beautiful portal, to a region of glory. This evening, as I write, the sun + is going down and the shadows are settling in the canyon. The vermilion + gleams and roseate hues, blending with the green and gray tints, are + slowly changing to somber brown above, and black shadows are creeping over + them below; and now it is a dark portal to a region of gloom--the gateway + through which we are to enter on our voyage of exploration tomorrow. What + shall we find? + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-102.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-102.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑÍ STOOL. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">149</span><a name="link149" id="link149"></a> + </p> + <p> + The distance from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is 9 2/3 miles. Besides + passing through the gorge, the river runs through Horseshoe and Kingfisher + canyons, separated by short valleys. The highest point on the walls at + Flaming Gorge is 1,300 feet above the river. The east wall at the apex of + Horseshoe Canyon is about 1,600 feet above the water's edge, and from this + point the walls slope both to the head and foot of the canyon. + </p> + <p> + Kingfisher Canyon, starting at the water's edge above, steadily increases + in altitude to 1,200 feet at the foot. + </p> + <p> + Red Canyon is 25 2/3 miles long, and the highest walls are about 2,500 + feet. + </p> + <p> + Brown's Park is a valley, bounded on either side by a mountain range, + really an expansion of the canyon. The river, through the park, is 35 1/2 + miles long, but passes through two short canyons on its way, where spurs + from the mountains on the south are thrust across its course. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-103.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-103.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">150</span><a name="link150" id="link150"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-104.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-104.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE HOME OF THE CHIEF. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">151</span><a name="link151" id="link151"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CHAPTER VII. + </p> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + JUNE 8.--We enter the canyon, and until noon find a succession of rapids, + over which, our boats have to be taken. Here I must explain our method of + proceeding at such places. The "Emma Dean "'goes in advance; the other + boats follow, in obedience to signals. When we approach a rapid, or what + on other rivers would often be called a fall, I stand on deck to examine + it, while the oarsmen back water, and we drift on as slowly as possible. + If I can see a clear chute between the rocks, away we go; but if the + channel is beset entirely across, we signal the other boats, pull to land, + and I walk along the shore for closer examination. If this reveals no + clear channel, hard work begins. We drop the boats to the very head of the + dangerous place and let them over by lines or make a portage, frequently + carrying both boats and cargoes over the rocks. + </p> + <p> + The waves caused by such falls in a river differ much from the waves of + the sea. The water of an ocean wave merely rises and falls; the form only + passes on, and form chases form unceasingly. A body floating on such waves + merely rises and sinks--does not progress unless impelled by wind or some + other power. But here the water of the wave passes on while the form + remains. The waters plunge down ten or twenty feet to the foot of a fall, + spring up again in a great wave, then down and up in a series of billows + that gradually disappear in the more quiet waters below; but these waves + are always there, and one can stand above and count them. + </p> + <p> + A boat riding such billows leaps and plunges along with great velocity. + Now, the difficulty in riding over these falls, when no rocks are in the + way, is with the first wave at the foot. This will sometimes gather for a + moment, heap up higher and higher, and then break back. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">152</span><a name="link152" id="link152"></a> 2 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + If the boat strikes it the instant after it breaks, she cuts through, and + the mad breaker dashes its spray over the boat and washes overboard all + who do not cling tightly. If the boat, in going over the falls, chances to + get caught in some side current and is turned from its course, so as to + strike the wave <i>"</i>broadside on," and the wave breaks at the same + instant, the boat is capsized; then we must cling to her, for the + water-tight compartments act as buoys and she cannot sink; and so we go, + dragged through the waves, until still waters are reached, when we right + the boat and climb aboard. We have several such experiences to-day. + </p> + <p> + At night we camp on the right bank, on a little shelving rock between the + river and the foot of the cliff; and with night comes gloom into these + great depths. After supper we sit by our camp fire, made of driftwood + caught by the rocks, and tell stories of wild life; for the men have seen + such in the mountains or on the plains, and on the battlefields of the + South. It is late before we spread our blankets on the beach. + </p> + <p> + Lying down, we look up through the canyon and see that only a little of + the blue heaven appears overhead--a crescent of blue sky, with two or + three constellations peering down upon us. I do not sleep for some time, + as the excitement of the day has not worn off. Soon I see a bright star + that appears to rest on the very verge of the cliff overhead to the east. + Slowly it seems to float from its resting place on the rock over the + canyon. At first it appears like a jewel set on the brink of the cliff, + but as it moves out from the rock <i>I</i> almost wonder that it does not + fall. In fact, it does seem to descend in a gentle curve, as though the + bright sky in which the stars are set were spread across the canyon, + resting on either wall, and swayed down by its own weight. The stars + appear to be in the canyon. I soon discover that it is the bright star + Vega; so it occurs to me to designate this part of the wall as the "Cliff + of the Harp." + </p> + <p> + <i>June 9.--</i>One of the party suggests that we call this the Canyon of + Lodore, and the name is adopted. Very slowly we make our way, often + climbing on the rocks at the edge of the water for a few hundred yards to + examine the channel before running it. During the afternoon we come to a + place where it is necessary to make a portage. The little boat is landed + and the others are signaled to come up. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODOKE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">153</span><a name="link153" id="link153"></a> + </p> + <p> + When these rapids or broken falls occur usually the channel is suddenly + narrowed by rocks which have been tumbled from the cliffs or + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-105.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-105.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GATE OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + have been washed in by lateral streams. Immediately above the narrow, + rocky channel, on one or both sides, there is often a bay of quiet water, + in which a landing can be made with ease. Sometimes + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">154</span><a name="link154" id="link154"></a> 4 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the water descends with a smooth, unruffled surface from the broad, quiet + spread above into the narrow, angry channel below by a semicircular sag. + Great care must be taken not to pass over the brink into this deceptive + pit, but above it we can row with safety. I walk along the bank to examine + the ground, leaving one of my men with a flag to guide the other boats to + the landing-place. I soon see one of the boats make shore all right, and + feel no more concern; but a minute after, I hear a shout, and, looking + around, see one of the boats shooting down the center of the sag. It is + the "No Name," with Captain Howland, his brother, and Goodman. I feel that + its going over is inevitable, and run to save the third boat. A minute + more, and she turns the point and heads for the shore. Then I turn down + stream again and scramble along to look for the boat that has gone over. + The first fall is not great, only 10 or 12 feet, and we often run such; + but below, the river tumbles down again for 40 or 50 feet, in a channel + filled with dangerous rocks that break the waves into whirlpools and beat + them into foam. I pass around a great crag just in time to see the boat + strike a rock and, rebounding from the shock, careen and fill its open + compartment with water. Two of the men lose their oars; she swings around + and is carried down at a rapid rate, broadside on, for a few yards, when, + striking amidships on another rock with great force, she is broken quite + in two and the men are thrown into the river. But the larger part of the + boat floats buoyantly, and they soon seize it, and down the river they + drift, past the rocks for a few hundred yards, to a second rapid filled + with huge boulders, where the boat strikes again and is dashed to pieces, + and the men and fragments are soon carried beyond my sight. Running along, + I turn a bend and see a man's head above the water, washed about in a + whirlpool below a great rock. It is Frank Goodman, clinging to the rock + with a grip upon which life depends. Coming opposite, I see Howland trying + to go to his aid from an island on which he has been washed. Soon he comes + near enough to reach Frank with a pole, which he extends toward him. The + latter lets go the rock, grasps the pole, and is pulled ashore. Seneca + Howland is washed farther down the island and is caught by some rocks, + and, though somewhat bruised, manages to get ashore in safety. This seems + a long time as I tell it, but it is quickly done. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">155</span><a name="link155" + id="link155"></a> + </p> + <p> + And now the three men are on an island, with a swift, dangerous river on + either side and a fall below. The "Emma Dean" is soon brought down, and + Sumner, starting above as far as possible, pushes + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-106.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-106.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WRECK AT DISASTER FALLS. + </p> + <p> + out. Right skillfully he plies the oars, and a few strokes set him on the + island at the proper point. Then they all pull the boat up stream as far + as they are able, until they stand in water up to their necks. One + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">156</span><a name="link156" id="link15"></a> 6 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + sits on a rock and holds the boat until the others are ready to pull, then + gives the boat a push, clings to it with his hands, and climbs in as they + pull for mainland, which they reach in safety. We are as glad to shake + hands with them as though they had been on a voyage around the world and + wrecked on a distant coast. + </p> + <p> + Down the river half a mile we find that the after cabin of the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-107.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-107.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + METALLIFEROUS VEINS EXPOSED TO VIEW. + </p> + <p> + wrecked boat, with a part of the bottom, ragged and splintered, has + floated against a rock and stranded. There are valuable articles in the + cabin; but, on examination, we determine that life should not + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">157</span><a name="link157" + id="link157"></a> + </p> + <p> + be risked to save them. Of course, the cargo of rations, instruments, and + clothing is gone. + </p> + <p> + We return to the boats and make camp for the night. No sleep comes to me + in all those dark hours. The rations, instruments, and clothing have been + divided among the boats, anticipating such an accident as this; and we + started with duplicates of everything that was deemed necessary to + success. But, in the distribution, there was one exception to this + precaution--the barometers were all placed in one boat, and they are lost! + There is a possibility that they are in the cabin lodged against the rock, + for that is where they were kept. But, then, how to reach them? The river + is rising. Will they be there to-morrow? Can I go out to Salt Lake City + and obtain barometers from New York? + </p> + <p> + <i>June 10.--</i>I have determined to get the barometers from the wreck, + if they are there. After breakfast, while the men make the portage, I go + down again for another examination, There the cabin lies, only carried 50 + or 60 feet farther on. Carefully looking over the ground, I am satisfied + that it can be reached with safety, and return to tell the men my + conclusion. Sumner and Dunn volunteer to take the little boat and make the + attempt. They start, reach it, and out come the barometers! The boys set + up a shout, and I join them, pleased that they should be as glad as myself + to save the instruments. When the boat lands on our side, I find that the + only things saved from the wreck were the barometers, a package of + thermometers, and a three-gallon keg of whiskey. The last is what the men + were shouting about. They had taken it aboard unknown to me, and now I am + glad they did take it, for it will do them good, as they are drenched + every day by the melting snow which runs down from the summits of the + Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + We come back to our work at the portage and find that it is necessary to + carry our rations over the rocks for nearly a mile and to let our boats + down with lines, except at a few points, where they also must be carried. + Between the river and the eastern wall of the canyon there is an immense + talus of broken rocks. These have tumbled down from the cliffs above and + constitute a vast pile of huge angular fragments. On these we build a path + for a quarter of a mile to a small sand-beach covered with driftwood, + through which we clear a way for several + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">158</span><a name="link158" id="link158"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + hundred yards, then continue the trail over another pile of rocks nearly + half a mile farther down, to a little bay. The greater part of the day is + spent in this work. Then we carry our cargoes down to the beach and camp + for the night. + </p> + <p> + While the men are building the camp fire, we discover an iron bake-oven, + several tin plates, a part of a boat, and many other fragments, which + denote that this is the place where Ashley's party was wrecked. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 11.--</i>This day is spent in carrying our rations down to the + bay--no small task, climbing over the rocks with sacks of flour and bacon. + We carry them by stages of about 500 yards each, and when night comes and + the last sack is on the beach, we are tired, bruised, and glad to sleep. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 12.--</i>To-day we take the boats down to the bay. While at this + work we discover three sacks of flour from the wrecked boat that have + lodged in the rocks. We carry them above high-water mark and leave them, + as our cargoes are already too heavy for the three remaining boats. We + also find two or three oars, which we place with them. + </p> + <p> + As Ashley and his party were wrecked here and as we have lost one of our + boats at the same place, we adopt the name Disaster Falls for the scene of + so much peril and loss. + </p> + <p> + Though some of his companions were drowned, Ashley and one other survived + the wreck, climbed the canyon wall, and found their way across the Wasatch + Mountains to Salt Lake City, living chiefly on berries, as they wandered + through an unknown and difficult country. When they arrived at Salt Lake + they were almost destitute of clothing and nearly starved. The Mormon + people gave them food and clothing and employed them to work on the + foundation of the Temple until they had earned sufficient to enable them + to leave the country. Of their subsequent history, I have no knowledge. It + is possible they returned to the scene of the disaster, as a little creek + entering the river below is known as Ashley's Creek, and it is reported + that he built a cabin and trapped on this river for one or two winters; + but this may have been before the disaster. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 13.</i>--Rocks, rapids, and portages still. We camp to-night at + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODOEE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">159</span><a name="link159" id="link159"></a> + </p> + <p> + the foot of the left fall, on a little patch of flood plain covered with a + dense growth of box-elders, stopping early in order to spread the clothing + and rations to dry. Everything is wet and spoiling. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 14.</i>--Howland and I climb the wall on the west side of the + canyon to an altitude of 2,000 feet. Standing above and looking to the + west, we discover a large park, five or six miles wide and twenty or + thirty long. The cliff we have climbed forms a wall between the canyon and + the park, for it is 800 feet down the western side to the valley. A creek + comes winding down 1,200 feet above the river, and, entering the + intervening wall by a canyon, plunges down more than 1,000 feet, by a + broken cascade, into the river below. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 15.</i>--To-day, while we make another portage, a peak, standing + on the east wall, is climbed by two of the men and found to be 2,700 feet + above the river. On the east side of the canyon a vast amphitheater has + been cut, with massive buttresses and deep, dark alcoves in which + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-108.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-108.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WINNIE'S GROTTO, A SIDE CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">160</span><a name="link160" id="link160"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + grow beautiful mosses and delicate ferns, while springs burst out from the + farther recesses and wind in silver threads over floors of sand rock. Here + we have three falls in close succession. At the first the water is + compressed into a very narrow channel against the right-hand cliff, and + falls 15 feet in 10 yards. At the second we have a broad sheet of water + tumbling down 20 feet over a group of rocks that thrust their dark heads + through the foam. The third is a broken fall, or short, abrupt rapid, + where the water makes a descent of more than 20 feet among huge, fallen + fragments of the cliff. We name the group Triplet Falls. We make a portage + around the first; past the second and the third we let down with lines. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon, Dunn and Howland having returned from their climb, + we run down three quarters of a mile on quiet waters and land at the head + of another fall. On examination, we find that there is an abrupt plunge of + a few feet and then the river tumbles for half a mile with a descent of a + hundred feet, in a channel beset with great numbers of huge boulders. This + stretch of the river is named Hell's Half-Mile. The remaining portion of + the day is occupied in making a trail among the rocks at the foot of the + rapid. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 16.--</i>Our first work this morning is to carry our cargoes to + the foot of the falls. Then we commence letting down the boats. We take + two of them down in safety, but not without great difficulty; for, where + such a vast body of water, rolling down an inclined plane, is broken into + eddies and cross-currents by rocks projecting from the cliffs and piles of + boulders in the channel, it requires excessive labor and much care to + prevent the boats from being dashed against the rocks or breaking away. + Sometimes we are compelled to hold the boat against a rock above a chute + until a second line, attached to the stem, is carried to some point below, + and when all is ready the first line is detached and the boat given to the + current, when she shoots down and the men below swing her into some eddy. + </p> + <p> + At such a place we are letting down the last boat, and as she is set free + a wave turns her broadside down the stream, with the stem, to which the + line is attached, from shore and a little up. They haul on the line to + bring the boat in, but the power of the current, striking obliquely + against her, shoots her out into the middle of the river. The + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODORE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">161</span><a name="link161" id="link161"></a> + </p> + <p> + men have their hands burned with the friction of the passing line; the + boat breaks away and speeds with great velocity down the stream. The "Maid + of the Canyon" is lost! So it seems; but she drifts + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-109.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-109.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ERODED TOWERS CAPPED WITH LARGE BLOCKS OF SANDSTONE. + </p> + <p> + some distance and swings into an eddy, in which she spins about until we + arrive with the small boat and rescue her. + </p> + <p> + Soon we are on our way again, and stop at the mouth of a little brook on + the right for a late dinner. This brook comes down from the distant + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">162</span><a name="link162" id="link162"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + mountains in a deep side canyon. We set out to explore it, but are soon + cut off from farther progress up the gorge by a high rock, over which the + brook glides in a smooth sheet. The rock is not quite vertical, and the + water does not plunge over it in a fall. + </p> + <p> + Then we climb up to the left for an hour, and are 1,000 feet above the + river and 600 above the brook. Just before us the canyon divides, a little + stream coming down on the right and another on the left, and we can look + away up either of these canyons, through an ascending vista, to cliffs and + crags and towers a mile back and 2,000 feet overhead. To the right a dozen + gleaming cascades are seen. Pines and firs stand on the rocks and aspens + overhang the brooks. The rocks below are red and brown, set in deep + shadows, but above they are buff and vermilion and stand in the sunshine. + The light above, made more brilliant by the bright-tinted rocks, and the + shadows below, more gloomy + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-110.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-110.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + FIRE IN CAMP. + </p> + <p> + by reason of the somber hues of the brown walls, increase the apparent + depths of the canyons, and it seems a long way up to the world of sunshine + and open sky, and a long way down to the bottom of the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODORE. <span class="pagenum">163</span><a name="link163" + id="link163"></a> + </p> + <p> + canyon glooms. Never before have I received such an impression of the vast + heights of these canyon walls, not even at the Cliff of the Harp, where + the very heavens seemed to rest on their summits. We sit on some + overhanging rocks and enjoy the scene for a time, listening to the music + of the falling waters away up the canyon. We name this Rippling Brook. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we make a short run to the mouth of another little + creek, coming down from the left into an alcove filled with luxuriant + vegetation. Here camp is made, with a group of cedars on one side and a + dense mass of box-elders and dead willows on the other. + </p> + <p> + I go up to explore the alcove. While away a whirlwind comes and scatters + the fire among the dead willows and cedar-spray, and soon there is a + conflagration. The men rush for the boats, leaving all they cannot readily + seize at the moment, and even then they have their clothing burned and + hair singed, and Bradley has his ears scorched. The cook fills his arms + with the mess-kit, and jumping into a boat, stumbles and falls, and away + go our cooking utensils into the river. Our plates are gone; our spoons + are gone; our knives and forks are gone. "Water catch 'em; h-e-a-p catch + 'em." + </p> + <p> + When on the boats, the men are compelled to cut loose, as the flames, + running out on the overhanging willows, are scorching them. Loose on the + stream, they must go down, for the water is too swift to make headway + against it. Just below is a rapid, filled with rocks. On the shoot, no + channel explored, no signal to guide them! Just at this juncture I chance + to see them, but have not yet discovered the fire, and the strange + movements of the men fill me with astonishment. Down the rocks I clamber, + and run to the bank. When I arrive they have landed. Then we all go back + to the late camp to see if anything left behind can be saved. Some of the + clothing and bedding taken out of the boats is found, also a few tin cups, + basins, and a camp kettle; and this is all the mess-kit we now have. Yet + we do just as well as ever. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 17.</i>--We run down to the mouth of Yampa River. This has been a + chapter of disasters and toils, notwithstanding which the Canyon of Lodore + was not devoid of scenic interest, even beyond the power + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">164</span><a name="link164" id="link164"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-111.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-111.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ISOLATED HOUSE AT ZUÑI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE CANYON OF LODOKE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">165</span><a name="link165" id="link165"></a> + </p> + <p> + of pen to tell. The roar of its waters was heard unceasingly from the hour + we entered it until we landed here. No quiet in all that time. But its + walls and cliffs, its peaks and crags, its amphitheaters and alcoves, tell + a story of beauty and grandeur that I hear yet--and shall hear. + </p> + <p> + The Canyon of Lodore is 20 3/4 miles in length. It starts abruptly at what + we have called the Gate of Lodore, with walls nearly 2,000 feet high, and + they are never lower than this until we reach Alcove Brook, about three + miles above the foot. They are very irregular, standing in vertical or + overhanging cliffs in places, terraced in others, or receding in steep + slopes, and are broken by many side gulches and canyons. The highest point + on the wall is at Dunn's Cliff, near Triplet Falls, where the rocks reach + an altitude of 2,700 feet, but the peaks a little way back rise nearly + 1,000 feet higher. Yellow pines, nut pines, firs, and cedars stand in + extensive forests on the Uinta Mountains, and, clinging to the rocks and + growing in the crevices, come down the walls to the water's edge from + Flaming Gorge to Echo Park. The red sandstones are lichened. over; + delicate mosses grow in the moist places, and ferns festoon the walls. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-112.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-112.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">166</span><a name="link166" id="link166"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-113.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-113.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ORAIBE COURT. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">167</span><a name="link167" id="link167"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CHAPTER VIII. + </p> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + THE Yampa enters the Green from the east. At a point opposite its mouth + the Green runs to the south, at the foot of a rock about 700 feet high and + a mile long, and then turns sharply around the rock to the right and runs + back in a northerly course parallel to its former direction for nearly + another mile, thus having the opposite sides of a long, narrow rock for + its bank. The tongue of rock so formed is a peninsular precipice with a + mural escarpment along its whole course on the east, but broken down at + places on the west. + </p> + <p> + On the east side of the river, opposite the rock and below the Yampa, + there is a little park, just large enough for a farm, already fenced with + high walls of gray homogeneous sandstone. There are three river entrances + to this park: one down the Yampa; one below, by coming up the Green; and + another down the Green. There is also a land entrance down a lateral + canyon. Elsewhere the park is inaccessible. Through this land entrance by + the side canyon there is a trail made by Indian hunters, who come down + here in certain seasons to kill mountain sheep. Great hollow domes are + seen in the eastern side of the rock, against which the Green sweeps; + willows border the river; clumps of box-elder are seen; and a few + cottonwoods stand at the lower end. Standing opposite the rock, our words + are repeated with startling clearness, but in a soft, mellow tone, that + transforms them into magical music. Scarcely can one believe it is the + echo of his own voice. In some places two or three echoes come back; in + other places they repeat themselves, passing back and forth across the + river between this rock and the eastern wall. To hear these repeated + echoes well, we must shout. Some of the party aver that ten or twelve + repetitions can be heard. To + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">168</span><a name="link168" id="link168"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + me, they seem rapidly to diminish and merge by multiplicity, like + telegraph poles on an outstretched plain. I have observed the same + phenomenon once before in the cliffs near Long's Peak, and am pleased to + meet with it again. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon Bradley and I climb some cliffs to the north. + Mountain sheep are seen above us, and they stand out on the rocks and eye + us intently, not seeming to move. Their color is much like that of the + gray sandstone beneath them, and, immovable as they are, they appear like + carved forms. Now a fine ram beats the rock with his fore foot, and, + wheeling around, they all bound away together, leaping over rocks and + chasms and climbing walls where no man can follow, and this with an ease + and grace most wonderful. At night we return to our camp under the + box-elders by the river side. Here we are to spend two or three days, + making a series of astronomic observations for latitude and longitude. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 18.--</i>We have named the long peninsular rock on the other side + Echo Rock. Desiring to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and + pull up stream as far as possible, for it cannot be climbed directly + opposite. We land on a talus of rocks at the upper end in order to reach a + place where it seems practicable to make the ascent; but we find we must + go still farther up the river. So we scramble along, until we reach a + place where the river sweeps against the wall. Here we find a shelf along + which we can pass, and now are ready for the climb. + </p> + <p> + We start up a gulch; then pass to the left on a bench along the wall; then + up again over broken rocks; then we reach more benches, along which we + walk, until we find more broken rocks and crevices, by which we climb; + still up, until we have ascended 600 or 800 feet, when we are met by a + sheer precipice. Looking about, we find a place where it seems possible to + climb. I go ahead; Bradley hands the barometer to me, and follows. So we + proceed, stage by stage, until we are nearly to the summit. Here, by + making a spring, I gain a foothold in a little crevice, and grasp an angle + of the rock overhead. I find I can get up no farther and cannot step back, + for I dare not let go with my hand and cannot reach foothold below + without. I call to Bradley for help. He finds a way by which he can get to + the top of the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">169</span><a name="link169" id="link169"></a> + </p> + <p> + rock over my head, but cannot reach me. Then he looks around for some + stick or limb of a tree, but finds none. Then he suggests that he would + better help me with the barometer case, but I fear I cannot hold on to it. + The moment is critical. Standing on my toes, my muscles begin to tremble. + It is sixty or eighty feet to the foot of the precipice. If I lose my hold + I shall fall to the bottom and then perhaps roll over the bench and tumble + still farther down the cliff. At this instant it occurs to Bradley to take + off his drawers, which he does, and swings them down to me. I hug close to + the rock, let go with my hand, seize the dangling legs, and with his + assistance am enabled to gain the top. + </p> + <p> + Then we walk out on the peninsular rock, make the necessary observations + for determining its altitude above camp, and return, finding an easy way + down. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 19.--</i>To-day, Howland, Bradley, and I take the "Emma Dean" and + start up the Yampa River. The stream is much swollen, the current swift, + and we are able to make but slow progress against it. The canyon in this + part of the course of the Yampa is cut through light gray sandstone. The + river is very winding, and the swifter water is usually + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-114.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-114.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE RESCUE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">170</span><a name="link170" id="link170"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + found on the outside of the curve, sweeping against vertical cliffs often + a thousand feet high. In the center of these curves, in many places, the + rock above overhangs the river. On the opposite side the walls are broken, + craggy, and sloping, and occasionally side canyons enter. When we have + rowed until we are quite tired we stop and take advantage of one of these + broken places to climb out of the canyon. When above, we can look up the + Yampa for a distance of several miles. From the summit of the immediate + walls of the canyon the rocks rise gently back for a distance of a mile or + two, having the appearance of a valley with an irregular and rounded + sandstone floor and in the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-115.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-115.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ECHO PARK. + </p> + <p> + center a deep gorge, which is the canyon. The rim of this valley on the + north is from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the river; on the south it is not + so high. A number of peaks stand on this northern rim, the highest of + which has received the name Mount Dawes. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we descend to our boat and return to camp in Echo + Park, gliding down in twenty minutes on the rapid river, a distance of + four or five miles, which was made up stream only by several hours' hard + rowing in the morning. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 20.--</i>This morning two of the men take me up the Yampa for a + short distance, and I go out to climb. Having reached the top of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">171</span><a name="link171" id="link171"></a> + </p> + <p> + the canyon, I walk over long stretches of naked sandstone, crossing + gulches now and then, and by noon reach the summit of Mount Dawes. From + this point I can look away to the north and see in the dim distance the + Sweetwater and Wind River mountains, more than 100 miles away. To the + northwest the Wasatch Mountains are in view, and peaks of the Uinta. To + the east I can see the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-116.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-116.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + FRAGMENT OF WALL, ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + more than 150 miles distant. The air is singularly clear to-day; mountains + and buttes stand in sharp outline, valleys stretch out in perspective, and + I can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see gleaming waters. + </p> + <p> + Descending, I cross to a ridge near the brink of the Canyon of Lodore, the + highest point of which is nearly as high as the last mentioned mountain. + Late in the afternoon I stand on this elevated + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">172</span><a name="link172" id="link172"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + point and discover a monument that has evidently been built by human + hands. A few plants are growing in the joints between the rocks, and all + are lichened over to a greater or less extent, giving evidence + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-117.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-117.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">172</span><a name="link172" id="link172_"></a> + </p> + <p> + KIVAS OF SHUMOPAVI. + </p> + <p> + that the pile was built a long time ago. This line of peaks, the eastern + extension of the Uinta Mountains, has received the name of Sierra + Escalante, in honor of a Spanish priest who traveled in this region of + country nearly a century ago. Perchance the reverend father built this + monument. + </p> + <p> + Now I return to the river and discharge my gun, as a signal for the boat + to come and take me down to camp. While we have been in the park the men + have succeeded in catching a number of fish, and we have an abundant + supply. This is a delightful addition to our <i>menu.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>June 21.--</i> We float around the long rock and enter another canyon. + The walls are high and vertical, the canyon is narrow, and the river + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">173</span><a name="link173" id="link173"></a> + </p> + <p> + fills the whole space below, so that there is no landing-place at the foot + of the cliff. The Green is greatly increased by the Yampa, and we now have + a much larger river. All this volume of water, confined, as it is, in a + narrow channel and rushing with great velocity, is set eddying and + spinning in whirlpools by projecting rocks and short curves, and the + waters waltz their way through the canyon, making their own rippling, + rushing, roaring music. The canyon is much narrower than any we have seen. + We manage our boats with difficulty. They spin about from side to side and + we know not where we are going, and find it impossible to keep them headed + down the stream. At first this causes us great alarm, but we soon find + there is little danger, and that there is a general movement or + progression down the river, to which this whirling is but an adjunct--that + it is the merry mood + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-118.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-118.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GENERAL VTEW OF AWATUBI. + </p> + <p> + of the river to dance through this deep, dark gorge, and right gaily do we + join in the sport. + </p> + <p> + But soon our revel is interrupted by a cataract; its roaring command is + heeded by all our power at the oars, and we pull against the whirling + current. The "Emma Dean" is brought up against a cliff + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">174</span><a name="link174" id="link174"></a> 4 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + about 50 feet above the brink of the fall. By vigorously plying the oars + on the side opposite the wall, as if to pull up stream, we can hold her + against the rock. The boats behind are signaled to land where they can. + The "Maid of the Canyon" is pulled to the left wall, and, by constant + rowing, they can hold her also. The "Sister" is run into an alcove on the + right, where an eddy is in a dance, and in this she joins. Now my little + boat is held against the wall only by the utmost exertion, and it is + impossible to make headway against the current. On examination, I find a + horizontal crevice in the rock, about 10 feet above the water and a boat's + length below us; so we let her down to that point. One of the men clambers + into the crevice, into which he can just crawl; we toss him the line, + which he makes fast in the rocks, and now our boat is tied up. Then I + follow into the crevice and we crawl along up stream a distance of 50 feet + or more, and find a broken place where we can climb about 50 feet higher. + Here we stand on a shelf that passes along down stream to a point above + the falls, where it is broken down, and a pile of rocks, over which we can + descend to the river, is lying against the foot of the cliff. + </p> + <p> + It has been mentioned that one of the boats is on the other side. I signal + for the men to pull her up alongside of the wall, but it cannot be done; + then to cross. This they do, gaining the wall on our side just above where + the "Emma Dean" is tied. + </p> + <p> + The third boat is out of sight, whirling in the eddy of a recess. Looking + about, I find another horizontal crevice, along which I crawl to a point + just over the water where this boat is lying, and, calling loud and long, + I finally succeed in making the crew understand that I want them to bring + the boat down, hugging the wall. This they accomplish by taking advantage + of every crevice and knob on the face of the cliff, so that we have the + three boats together at a point a few yards above the falls. Now, by + passing a line up on the shelf, the boats can be let down to the broken + rocks below. This we do, and, making a short portage, our troubles here + are over. + </p> + <p> + Below the falls the canyon is wider, and there is more or less space + between the river and the walls; but the stream, though wide, is rapid, + and rolls at a fearful rate among the rocks. We proceed with great + caution, and run the large boats wholly by signal. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA EIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">175</span><a name="link175" id="link175"></a> + </p> + <p> + At night we camp at the mouth of a small creek, which affords us a good + supper of trout. In camp to-night we discuss the propriety + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-119.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-119.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SWALLOW CAVE. + </p> + <p> + of several different names for this canyon. At the falls encountered at + noon its characteristics change suddenly. Above, it is very narrow, and + the walls are almost vertical; below, the canyon is much wider + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">176</span><a name="link176" id="link176"></a> 6 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + and more flaring, and high up on the sides crags, pinnacles, and towers + are seen. A number of wild and narrow side canyons enter, and the walls + are much broken. After many suggestions our choice rests between two + names, Whirlpool Canyon and Craggy Canyon, neither of which is strictly + appropriate for both parts of it; so we leave the discussion at this + point, with the understanding that it is best, before finally deciding on + a name, to wait until we see what the character of the canyon is below. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 22.</i>--Still making short portages and letting down with lines. + While we are waiting for dinner to-day, I climb a point that gives me a + good view of the river for two or three miles below, and I think we can + make a long run. After dinner we start; the large boats are to follow in + fifteen minutes and look out for the signal to land. Into the middle of + the stream we row, and down the rapid river we glide, only making strokes + enough with the oars to guide the boat. What a headlong ride it is! + shooting past rocks and islands. I am soon filled with exhilaration only + experienced before in riding a fleet horse over the outstretched prairie. + One, two, three, four miles we go, rearing and plunging with the waves, + until we wheel to the right into a beautiful park and land on an island, + where we go into camp. + </p> + <p> + An hour or two before sunset I cross to the mainland and climb a point of + rocks where I can overlook the park and its surroundings. On the east it + is bounded by a high mountain ridge. A semicircle of naked hills bounds it + on the north, west, and south. + </p> + <p> + The broad, deep river meanders through the park, interrupted by many + wooded islands; so I name it Island Park, and decide to call the canyon + above, Whirlpool Canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 23.--</i>We remain in camp to-day to repair our boats, which have + had hard knocks and are leaking. Two of the men go out with the barometer + to climb the cliff at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon and measure the walls; + another goes on the mountain to hunt; and Bradley and I spend the day + among the rocks, studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting + fossils. Late in the afternoon the hunter returns and brings with him a + fine, fat deer; so we give his name to the mountain--Mount Hawkins. Just + before night we move camp to the lower end of the park, floating down the + river about four miles. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + PROM ECHO PAEK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA KIVEK. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">177</span><a name="link177" id="link177"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>June 24.--</i>Bradley and I start early to climb the mountain ridge to + the east, and find its summit to be nearly 3,000 feet above camp. It has + required some labor to scale it; but on its top, what a view! There is a + long spur running out from the Uinta Mountains toward the south, and the + river runs lengthwise through it. Coming down Lodore + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-120.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-120.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VIEW OF SIIUMOPAVI. + </p> + <p> + and Whirlpool canyons, we cut through the southern slope of the Uinta + Mountains; and the lower end of this latter canyon runs into the spur, + but, instead of splitting it the whole length, the river wheels to the + right at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon in a great curve to the northwest + through Island Park. At the lower end of the park, the river + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">178</span><a name="link178" id="link178"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-121.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-121.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS. + </p> + <p> + turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center and + then makes a detour to the southwest, splitting the mountain ridge for a + distance of six miles nearly to its foot, and then turns out of it to the + left. All this we can see where we stand on the summit of Mount Hawkins, + and so we name the gorge below, Split Mountain Canyon. + </p> + <p> + We are standing 3,000 feet above the waters, which are troubled with + billows and are white with foam. The walls are set with crags and peaks + and buttressed towers and overhanging domes. Turning to the right, the + park is below us, its island groves reflected by the deep, quiet waters. + Rich meadows stretch out on either hand to the verge of a sloping plain + that comes down from the distant mountains. These plains are of almost + naked rock, in strange contrast to the meadows,--blue and lilac colored + rocks, buff and pink, vermilion and brown, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">179</span><a name="link179" id="link179"></a> + </p> + <p> + and all these colors clear and bright. A dozen little creeks, dry the + greater part of the year, run down through the half circle of exposed + formations, radiating from the island center to the rim of the basin. Each + creek has its system of side streams and each side stream has its system + of laterals, and again these are divided; so that this outstretched slope + of rock is elaborately embossed. Beds of different-colored formations run + in parallel bands on either side. The perspective, modified by the + undulations, gives the bands a waved appearance, and the high colors gleam + in the midday sun with the luster of satin. We are tempted to call this + Rainbow Park. Away beyond these beds are the Uinta and Wasatch mountains + with their pine forests and snow fields and naked peaks. Now we turn to + the right and look up Whirlpool Canyon, a deep gorge with a river at the + bottom--a gloomy chasm, where mad waves roar; but at this distance and + altitude the river is but a rippling brook, and the chasm a narrow cleft. + The top of the mountain on which we stand is a broad, grassy table, and a + herd + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-122.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-122.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">180</span><a name="link180" id="link180"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + of deer are feeding in the distance. Walking over to the southeast, we + look down into the valley of White River, and beyond that see the + far-distant Rocky Mountains, in mellow, perspective haze, through which + snow fields shine. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 25.--</i>This morning we enter Split Mountain Canyon, sailing in + </p> + <p> + through a broad, flaring, brilliant gateway. We run two or three rapids, + after they have been carefully examined. Then we have a series of six or + eight, over which we are compelled to pass by letting the boats down with + lines. This occupies the entire day, and we camp at night at the mouth of + a great cave. The cave is at the foot of one of these rapids, and the + waves dash in nearly to its end. We can pass along a little shelf at the + side until we reach the back part. Swallows have built their nests in the + ceiling, and they wheel in, chattering and scolding at our intrusion; but + their clamor is almost drowned by the noise of the waters. Looking out of + the cave, we can see, far up the river, a line of crags standing sentinel + on either side, and Mount Hawkins in the distance. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 26.</i>--The forenoon is spent in getting our large boats over the + rapids. This afternoon we find three falls in close succession. We carry + our rations over the rocks and let our boats shoot over the falls, + checking and bringing them to land with lines in the eddies below. At + three o'clock we are all aboard again. Down the river we are carried by + the swift waters at great speed, sheering around a rock now and then with + a timely stroke or two of the oars. At one point the river turns from left + to right, in a direction at right angles to the canyon, in a long chute + and strikes the right, where its waters are heaped up in great billows + that tumble back in breakers. We glide into the chute before we see the + danger, and it is too late to stop. Two or three hard strokes are given on + the right and we pause for an instant, expecting to be dashed against the + rock. But the bow of the boat leaps high on a great wave, the rebounding + waters hurl us back, and the peril is past. The next moment the other + boats are hurriedly signaled to land on the left. Accomplishing this, the + men walk along the shore, holding the boats near the bank, and let them + drift around. Starting again, we soon debouch into a beautiful valley, + glide down its length for 10 miles, and camp under a grand + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">181</span><a name="link181" id="link181"></a> + </p> + <p> + old cottonwood. This is evidently a frequent resort for Indians. Tent + poles are lying about, and the dead embers of late camp fires are seen. On + the plains to the left, antelope are feeding. Now and then a wolf is seen, + and after dark they make the air resound with their howling. <i>June 27.--</i>Now + our way is along a gently flowing river, beset with + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-123.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-123.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + INDIAN LODGE IN THE UINTA VALLEY. + </p> + <p> + many islands; groves are seen on either side, and natural meadows, where + herds of antelope are feeding. Here and there we have views of the distant + mountains on the right. During the afternoon we make a long detour to the + west and return again to a point not more than half a mile from where we + started at noon, and here we camp for the night under a high bluff. <i>June + 28.--</i>To-day the scenery on either side of the river is much + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">182</span><a name="link182" id="link182"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the same as that of yesterday, except that two or three lakes are + discovered, lying in the valley to the west. After dinner we run but a few + minutes when we discover the mouth of the Uinta, a river coming in from + the west. Up the valley of this stream about 40 miles the reservation of + the Uinta Indians is situated. We propose to go there and see if we can + replenish our mess-kit, and perhaps send letters to friends. We also + desire to establish an astronomic station here; and hence this will be our + stopping place for several days. + </p> + <p> + Some years ago Captain Berthoud surveyed a stage route from Salt Lake City + to Denver, and this is the place where he crossed the Green River. His + party was encamped here for some time, constructing a ferry boat and + opening a road. + </p> + <p> + A little above the mouth of the Uinta, on the west side of the Green, + there is a lake of several thousand acres. We carry our boat across the + divide between this and the river, have a row on its quiet waters, and + succeed in shooting several ducks. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 29.--</i>A mile and three quarters from here is the junction of + the White River with the Green. The White has its source far to the east + in the Rocky Mountains. This morning I cross the Green and go over into + the valley of the White and extend my walk several miles along its winding + way, until at last I come in sight of some strangely carved rocks, named + by General Hughes, in his journal, "Goblin City." Our last winter's camp + was situated a hundred miles above the point reached to-day. The course of + the river, for much of the distance, is through canyons; but at some + places valleys are found. Excepting these little valleys, the region is + one of great desolation: arid, almost treeless, with bluffs, hills, ledges + of rock, and drifting sands. Along the course of the Green, however, from + the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to a point some distance below the mouth + of the Uinta, there are many groves of cottonwood, natural meadows, and + rich lands. This arable belt extends some distance up the White River on + the east and the Uinta on the west, and the time must soon come when + settlers will penetrate this country and make homes. + </p> + <p> + <i>June 30.--</i>We have a row up the Uinta to-day, but are not able to + make much headway against the swift current, and hence conclude we must + walk all the way to the agency. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">183</span><a name="link183" id="link183"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>July 1.--</i>Two days have been employed in obtaining the local time, + taking observations for latitude and longitude, and making excursions into + the adjacent country. This morning, with two of the men, I start for the + agency. It is a toilsome walk, 20 miles of the distance being across a + sand desert. Occasionally we have to wade the river, crossing it back and + forth. Toward evening we cross several beautiful streams, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-124.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-124.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WARRIOR AND BRIDE. + </p> + <p> + tributaries of the Uinta, and pass through pine groves and meadows, + arriving at the reservation just at dusk. Captain Dodds, the agent, is + away, having gone to Salt Lake City, but his assistants receive us very + kindly. It is rather pleasant to see a house once more, and some evidences + of civilization, even if it is on an Indian reservation several days' ride + from the nearest home of the white man. <i>July 2.--</i>I go this morning + to visit Tsauwiat. This old chief is + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">184</span><a name="link184" id="link184"></a> 4 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + but the wreck of a man, and no longer has influence. Looking at him one + can scarcely realize that he is a man. His skin is shrunken, wrinkled, and + dry, and seems to cover no more than a form of bones. He is said to be + more than 100 years old. I talk a little with him, but his conversation is + incoherent, though he seems to take pride in showing me some medals that + must have been given him many years ago. He has a pipe which he says he + has used a long time. I offer to exchange with him, and he seems to be + glad to accept; so I add another to my collection of pipes. His wife, "The + Bishop," as she is called, is a very garrulous old woman; she exerts a + great influence, and is much revered. She is the only Indian woman I have + known to occupy a place in the council ring. She seems very much younger + than her husband, and, though wrinkled and ugly, is still vigorous. She + has much to say to me concerning the condition of the people, and seems + very anxious that they should learn to cultivate the soil, own farms, and + live like white men. After talking a couple of hours with these old + people, I go to see the farms. They are situated in a very beautiful + district, where many fine streams of water meander across alluvial plains + and meadows. These creeks have a considerable fall, and it is easy to take + their waters out above and overflow the lands with them. + </p> + <p> + It will be remembered that irrigation is necessary in this dry climate to + successful farming. Quite a number of Indians have each a patch of ground + of two or three acres, on which they are raising wheat, potatoes, turnips, + pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. Most of the crops are looking + well, and it is rather surprising with what pride they show us that they + are able to cultivate crops like white men. They are still occupying + lodges, and refuse to build houses, assigning as a reason that when any + one dies in a lodge it is always abandoned, and very often burned with all + the effects of the deceased; and when houses have been built for them the + houses have been treated in the same way. With their unclean habits, a + fixed residence would doubtless be no pleasant place. + </p> + <p> + This beautiful valley has been the home of a people of a higher grade of + civilization than the present Utes. Evidences of this are quite abundant; + on our way here yesterday we discovered fragments + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. <span class="pagenum">185</span><a + name="link185" id="link185"></a> + </p> + <p> + of pottery in many places along the trail; and, wandering about the little + farms to-day, I find the foundations of ancient houses, and mealing-stones + that were not used by nomadic people, as they are too heavy to be + transported by such tribes, and are deeply worn. The + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-125.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-125.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + OUR INTERPRETER AND HIS FAMILY. + </p> + <p> + Indians, seeing that I am interested in these matters, take pains to show + me several other places where these evidences remain, and tell me that + they know nothing about the people who formerly dwelt here. They further + tell me that up in the canyon the rocks are covered with pictures. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 5.--</i>The last two days have been spent in studying the language + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">186</span><a name="link186" id="link186"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-126.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-126.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + HOUSE BUILDING AT ORAIBI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + PROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. <span class="pagenum">187</span><a + name="link187" id="link187"></a> + </p> + <p> + of the Indians and in making collections of articles illustrating the + state of arts among them. + </p> + <p> + Frank Goodman informs me this morning that he has concluded not to go on + with the party, saying that he has seen danger enough. It will be + remembered that he was one of the crew on the "No Name" when she was + wrecked. As our boats are rather heavily loaded, I am content that he + should leave, although he has been a faithful man. + </p> + <p> + We start early on our return to the boats, taking horses with us from the + reservation, and two Indians, who are to bring the animals back. + </p> + <p> + Whirlpool Canyon is 14 1/4 miles in length, the walls varying from 1,800 + to 2,400 feet in height. The course of the river through Island Park is 9 + miles. Split Mountain Canyon is 8 miles long. The highest crags on its + walls reach an altitude above the river of from 2,500 to 2,700 feet. In + these canyons cedars only are found on the walls. + </p> + <p> + The distance by river from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to the mouth + of the Uinta is 67 miles. The valley through which it runs is the home of + many antelope, and we have adopted for it the Indian name Won'sits + Yuav--Antelope Valley. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-127.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-127.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">188</span><a name="link188" id="link188"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-128.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-128.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GENERAL VIEW OF OJO CALIENTE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">189</span><a name="link189" id="link189"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER IX. + </p> + <p> + FROM THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER TO THE JUNCTION OF THE + </p> + <p> + GRAND AND GREEN. + </p> + <p> + JULY 6.--An early start this morning. A short distance below the mouth of + the Uinta we come to the head of a long island. Last winter a man named + Johnson, a hunter and Indian trader, visited us at our camp in White River + Valley. This man has an Indian wife, and, having no fixed home, usually + travels with one of the Ute bands. He informed me that it was his + intention to plant some corn, potatoes, and other vegetables on this + island in the spring, and, knowing that we would pass it, invited us to + stop and help ourselves, even if he should not be there; so we land and go + out on the island. Looking about, we soon discover his garden, but it is + in a sad condition, having received no care since it was planted. It is + yet too early in the season for corn, but Hall suggests that potato tops + are good greens, and, anxious for some change from our salt-meat fare, we + gather a quantity and take them aboard. At noon we stop and cook our + greens for dinner; but soon one after another of the party is taken sick; + nausea first, and then severe vomiting, and we tumble around under the + trees, groaning with pain. I feel a little alarmed, lest our poisoning be + severe. Emetics are administered to those who are willing to take them, + and about the middle of the afternoon we are all rid of the pain. Jack + Sumner records in his diary that "potato tops are not good greens on the + 6th day of July." + </p> + <p> + This evening we enter another canyon, almost imperceptibly, as the walls + rise very gently. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 7.</i>--We find quiet water to-day, the river sweeping in great + and beautiful curves, the canyon walls steadily increasing in altitude. + The escarpments formed by the cut edges of the rock are often vertical, + sometimes terraced, and in some places the treads of the terraces + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">190</span><a name="link190" id="link190"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + are sloping. In these quiet curves vast amphitheaters are formed, now in + vertical rocks, now in steps. + </p> + <p> + The salient point of rock within the curve is usually broken down in a + steep slope, and we stop occasionally to climb up at such a place, where + on looking down we can see the river sweeping the foot of the opposite + cliff in a great, easy curve, with a perpendicular or terraced wall rising + from the water's edge many hundreds of feet. One of these we find very + symmetrical and name it Sumner's Amphitheater. The cliffs are rarely + broken by the entrance of side canyons, and we sweep around curve after + curve with almost continuous walls for several miles. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we find the river very much rougher and come upon + rapids, not dangerous, but still demanding close attention. We camp at + night on the right bank, having made 26 miles. <i>July 8.--</i>This + morning Bradley and I go out to climb, and gain an altitude of more than + 2,000 feet above the river, but still do not reach the summit of the wall. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-129.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-129.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SUMNER'S AMPHITHEATER. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. <span class="pagenum">191</span><a + name="link191" id="link191"></a> + </p> + <p> + After dinner we pass through a region of the wildest desolation. The + canyon is very tortuous, the river very rapid, and many lateral canyons + enter on either side. These usually have their branches, so that the + region is cut into a wilderness of gray and brown cliffs. In several + places these lateral canyons are separated from one another only by narrow + walls, often hundreds of feet high,--so narrow in places that where softer + rocks are found below they have crumbled away and left holes in the wall, + forming passages from one canyon into another. These we often call natural + bridges; but they were never intended to span streams. They would better, + perhaps, be called side doors between canyon chambers. Piles of broken + rock lie against these walls; crags and tower-shaped peaks are seen + everywhere, and away above them, long lines of broken cliffs; and above + and beyond the cliffs are pine forests, of which we obtain occasional + glimpses as we look up through a vista of rocks. The walls are almost + without vegetation; a few dwarf bushes are seen here and there clinging to + the rocks, and cedars grow from the crevices--not like the cedars of a + land refreshed with rains, great cones bedecked with spray, but ugly + clumps, like war clubs beset with spines. We are minded to call this the + Canyon of Desolation. + </p> + <p> + The wind annoys us much to-day. The water, rough by reason of the rapids, + is made more so by head gales. Wherever a great face of rocks has a + southern exposure, the rarefied air rises and the wind rushes in below, + either up or down the canyon, or both, causing local currents. Just at + sunset we run a bad rapid and camp at its foot. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 9.--</i>Our run to-day is through a canyon with ragged, broken + walls, many lateral gulches or canyons entering on either side. The river + is rough, and occasionally it becomes necessary to use lines in passing + rocky places. During the afternoon we come to a rather open canyon valley, + stretching up toward the west, its farther end lost in the mountains. From + a point to which we climb we obtain a good view of its course, until its + angular walls are lost in the vista. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 10.--</i>Sumner, who is a fine mechanic, is learning to take + observations for time with the sextant. To-day he remains in camp to + practice. Howland and I determine to climb out, and start up a lateral + canyon, taking a barometer with us for the purpose of measuring the + thickness + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">192</span><a name="link192" id="link192"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + of the strata over which we pass. The readings of the barometer below are + recorded every half hour and our observations must be simultaneous. Where + the beds which we desire to measure are very thick, we must climb with the + utmost speed to reach their summits in time; where the beds are thinner, + we must wait for the moment to arrive; and so, by hard and easy stages, we + make our way to the top of the canyon wall and reach the plateau above + about two o' clock. + </p> + <p> + Howland, who has his gun with him, sees deer feeding a mile or two back + and goes off for a hunt. I go to a peak which seems to be the highest one + in this region, about half a mile distant, and climb, for-the purpose of + tracing the topography of the adjacent country. From this point a fine + view is obtained. A long plateau stretches across the river in an easterly + and westerly direction, the summit covered by pine forests, with + intervening elevated valleys and gulches. The plateau itself is cut in two + by the canyon. Other side canyons head away back from the river and run + down into the Green. Besides these, deep and abrupt canyons are seen to + head back on the plateau and run north toward the Uinta and White rivers. + Still other canyons head in the valleys and run toward the south. The + elevation of the plateau being about 8,000 feet above the level of the + sea, it is in a region of moisture, as is well attested by the forests and + grassy valleys. The plateau seems to rise gradually to the west, until it + merges into the Wasatch Mountains. On these high table-lands elk and deer + abound; and they are favorite hunting grounds for the Ute Indians. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">193</span><a name="link193" id="link193"></a> + </p> + <p> + A little before sunset Howland and I meet again at the head of the side + canyon, and down we start. It is late, and we must make great haste or be + caught by the darkness; so we go, running where we can, leaping over the + ledges, letting each other down on the loose rocks, as long as we can see. + When darkness comes we are still some distance from camp, and a long, + slow, anxious descent is made toward the gleaming camp fire. + </p> + <p> + After supper, observations for latitude are taken, and only two or three + hours for sleep remain before daylight. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 11.--</i>A short distance below camp we run a rapid, and in doing + so break an oar and then lose another, both belonging to the "Emma Dean." + Now the pioneer boat has but two oars. We see nothing from + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">194</span><a name="link194" id="link194"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-130.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-130.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CHIMNEYS AND ROOFS, ZUNI. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-131.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-131.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A TUSAYAN INTERIOR. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. <span class="pagenum">195</span><a + name="link195" id="link195"></a> + </p> + <p> + which oars can be made, so we conclude to run on to some point where it + seems possible to climb out to the forests on the plateau, and there we + will procure suitable timber from which to make new ones. + </p> + <p> + We soon approach another rapid. Standing on deck, I think it can be run, + and on we go. Coming nearer, I see that at the foot it has a short turn to + the left, where the waters pile up against the cliff. Here we try to land, + but quickly discover that, being in swift water above the fall, we cannot + reach shore, crippled as we are by the loss of two oars; so the bow of the + boat is turned down stream. We shoot by a big rock; a reflex wave rolls + over our little boat and fills her. I see that the place is dangerous and + quickly signal to the other boats to land where they can. This is scarcely + completed when another wave rolls our boat over and I am thrown some + distance into the water. I soon find that swimming is very easy and I + cannot sink. It is only necessary to ply strokes sufficient to keep my + head out of the water, though now and then, when a breaker rolls over me, + I close my mouth and am carried through it. The boat is drifting ahead of + me 20 or 30 feet, and when the great waves have passed I overtake her and + find Sumner and Dunn clinging to her. As soon as we reach quiet water we + all swim to one side and turn her over. In doing this, Dunn loses his hold + and goes under; when he comes up he is caught by Sumner and pulled to the + boat. In the meantime we have drifted down stream some distance and see + another rapid below. How bad it may be we cannot tell; so we swim toward + shore, pulling our boat with us, with all the vigor possible, but are + carried down much faster than distance toward shore is diminished. At last + we reach a huge pile of driftwood. Our rolls of blankets, two guns, and a + barometer were in the open compartment of the boat and, when it went over, + these were thrown out. The guns and barometer are lost, but I succeeded in + catching one of the rolls of blankets as it drifted down, when we were + swimming to shore; the other two are lost, and sometimes hereafter we may + sleep cold. + </p> + <p> + A huge fire is built on the bank and our clothing spread to dry, and then + from the drift logs we select one from which we think oars can be made, + and the remainder of the day is spent in sawing them out. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 12.--</i>This morning the new oars are finished and we start once + more. We pass several bad rapids, making a short portage at one, and + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">196</span><a name="link196" id="link196"></a> 6 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + before noon we come to a long, bad fall, where the channel is filled with + rocks on the left which turn the waters to the right, where they pass + under an overhanging rock. On examination we determine to run it, keeping + as close to the left-hand rocks as safety will permit, in order to avoid + the overhanging cliff. The little boat runs over all right; another + follows, but the men are not able to keep her near enough to the left bank + and she is carried by a swift chute into great waves to the right, where + she is tossed about and Bradley is knocked over the side; his foot + catching under the seat, he is dragged along in the water with his head + down; making great exertion, he seizes the gunwale with his left hand and + can lift his head above water now and then. To us who are below, it seems + impossible to keep the boat from going under the overhanging cliff; but + Powell, for the moment heedless of Bradley's mishap, pulls with all his + power for half a dozen strokes, when the danger is past; then he seizes + Bradley and pulls him in. The men in the boat above, seeing this, land, + and she is let down by lines. + </p> + <p> + Just here we emerge from the Canyon of Desolation, as we have named it, + into a more open country, which extends for a distance of nearly a mile, + when we enter another canyon cut through gray sandstone. + </p> + <p> + About three o'clock in the afternoon we meet with a new difficulty. The + river fills the entire channel; the walls are vertical on either side from + the water's edge, and a bad rapid is beset with rocks. We come to the head + of it and land on a rock in the stream. The little boat is let down to + another rock below, the men of the larger boat holding to the line; the + second boat is let down in the same way, and the line of the third boat is + brought with them. Now the third boat pushes out from the upper rock, and, + as we have her line below, we pull in and catch her as she is sweeping by + at the foot of the rock on which we stand. Again the first boat is let + down stream the full length of her line and the second boat is passed + down, by the first to the extent of her line, which is held by the men in + the first boat; so she is two lines' length from where she started. Then + the third boat is let down past the second, and still down, nearly to the + length of her line, so that she is fast to the second boat and swinging + down three lines' lengths, with the other two boats intervening. Held in + this way, the men + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">197</span><a name="link197" id="link197"></a> + </p> + <p> + are able to pull her into a cove in the left wall, where she is made fast. + But this leaves a man on the rock above, holding to the line of the little + boat. When all is ready, he springs from the rock, clinging to the line + with one hand and swimming with the other, and we pull him in as he goes + by. As the two boats, thus loosened, drift down, the men + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-132.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-132.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + LIGHTHOUSE ROCK, CANYON OF DESOLATION. + </p> + <p> + in the cove pull us all in as we come opposite; then we pass around to a + point of rock below the cove, close to the wall, land, make a short + portage over the worst places in the rapid, and start again. + </p> + <p> + At night we camp on a sand beach. The wind blows a hurricane; the drifting + sand almost blinds us; and nowhere can we find shelter. The wind continues + to blow all night, the sand sifting through our blankets + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">198</span><a name="link198" id="link198"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + and piling over us until we are covered as in a snowdrift. We are glad + when morning comes. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 13.--</i>This morning we have an exhilarating ride. The river is + swift, and there are many smooth rapids. I stand on deck, keeping careful + watch ahead, and we glide along, mile after mile, plying strokes, now on + the right and then on the left, just sufficient to guide our boats past + the rocks into smooth water. At noon we emerge from Gray Canyon, as we + have named it, and camp for dinner under a cotton-wood tree standing on + the left bank. + </p> + <p> + Extensive sand plains extend back from the immediate river valley as far + as we can see on either side. These naked, drifting sands gleam + brilliantly in the midday sun of July. The reflected heat from the glaring + surface produces a curious motion of the atmosphere; little currents are + generated and the whole seems to be trembling and moving about in many + directions, or, failing to see that the movement is in the atmosphere, it + gives the impression of an unstable land. Plains and hills and cliffs and + distant mountains seem to be floating vaguely about in a trembling, + wave-rocked sea, and patches of landscape seem to float away and be lost, + and then to reappear. + </p> + <p> + Just opposite, there are buttes, outliers of cliffs to the left. Below, + they are composed of shales and marls of light blue and slate colors; + above, the rocks are buff and gray, and then brown. The buttes are + buttressed below, where the azure rocks are seen, and terraced above + through the gray and brown beds. A long line of cliffs or rock escarpments + separates the table-lands through which Gray Canyon is cut, from the lower + plain. The eye can trace these azure beds and cliffs on either side of the + river, in a long line extending across its course, until they fade away in + the perspective. These cliffs are many miles in length and hundreds of + feet high; and all these buttes--great mountain-masses of rock--are + dancing and fading away and reappearing, softly moving about,--or so they + seem to the eye as seen through the shifting atmosphere. + </p> + <p> + This afternoon our way is through a valley with cottonwood groves on + either side. The river is deep, broad, and quiet. About two hours after + noon camp we discover an Indian crossing, where a number of rafts, rudely + constructed of logs and bound together by withes, are + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">199</span><a name="link199" id="link199"></a> + </p> + <p> + floating against the bank. On landing, we see evidences that a party of + Indians have crossed within a very few days. This is the place where the + lamented Gunnison crossed, in the year 1853, when making an exploration + for a railroad route to the Pacific coast. + </p> + <p> + An hour later we run a long rapid and stop at its foot to examine some + interesting rocks, deposited by mineral springs that at one time must have + existed here, but which are no longer flowing. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 14.--</i> This morning we pass some curious black bluffs on the + right, then two or three short canyons, and then we discover the mouth of + the San Rafael, a stream which comes down from the distant mountains in + the west. Here we stop for an hour or two and take a short walk up the + valley, and find it is a frequent resort for Indians. Arrowheads are + scattered about, many of them very beautiful; flint chips are strewn over + the ground in great profusion, and the trails are well worn. + </p> + <p> + Starting after dinner, we pass some beautiful buttes on the left, many + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-133.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-133.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GUNNISON BUTTE. GRAY CANYON (2,700 FEET HIGH). + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">200</span><a name="link200" id="link200"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + of which are very symmetrical. They are chiefly composed of gypsum, of + many hues, from light gray to slate color; then pink, purple, and brown + beds. Now we enter another canyon. Gradually the walls rise higher and + higher as we proceed, and the summit of the canyon is formed of the same + beds of orange-colored sandstone. Back from the brink the hollows of the + plateau are filled with sands disintegrated from these orange beds. They + are of a rich cream color, shading into maroon, everywhere destitute of + vegetation, and drifted into long, wave-like ridges. + </p> + <p> + The course of the river is tortuous, and it nearly doubles upon itself + many times. The water is quiet, and constant rowing is necessary to make + much headway. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the river + and the wall, on one side or the other. Where these long, gentle curves + are found, the river washes the very foot of the outer wall. A long + peninsula of willow-bordered meadow projects within the curve, and the + talus at the foot of the cliff is usually covered with dwarf oaks. The + orange-colored sandstone is homogeneous in structure, and the walls are + usually vertical, though not very high. Where the river sweeps around a + curve under a cliff, a vast hollow dome may be seen, with many caves and + deep alcoves, which are greatly admired by the members of the party as we + go by. + </p> + <p> + We camp at night on the left bank. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 15.</i>---Our camp is in a great bend of the canyon. The curve is + to the west and we are on the east side of the river. Just opposite, a + little stream comes down through a narrow side canyon. We cross and go up + to explore it. At its mouth another lateral canyon enters, in the angle + between the former and the main canyon above. Still another enters in the + angle between the canyon below and the side canyon first mentioned; so + that three side canyons enter at the same point. These canyons are very + tortuous, almost closed in from view, and, seen from the opposite side of + the river, they appear like three alcoves. We name this Trin-Alcove Bend. + </p> + <p> + Going up the little stream in the central cove, we pass between high walls + of sandstone, and wind about in glens. Springs gush from the rocks at the + foot of the walls; narrow passages in the rocks are threaded, caves are + entered, and many side canyons are observed. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">201</span><a name="link201" id="link201"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-134.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-134.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS OF KETCHIPAUAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">202</span><a name="link202" id="link202"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-135.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-135.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE LAND OF THE STANDING ROCKS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. <span class="pagenum">203</span><a + name="link203" id="link203"></a> + </p> + <p> + The right cove is a narrow, winding gorge, with overhanging walls, almost + shutting out the light. The left is an amphitheater, turning spirally up, + with overhanging shelves. A series of basins filled with water are seen at + different altitudes as we pass up; huge rocks are piled below on the + right, and overhead there is an arched ceiling. After exploring these + alcoves, we recross the river and climb the rounded rocks on the point of + the bend. In every direction, as far as we are able to see, naked rocks + appear. Buttes are scattered on the landscape, here rounded into cones, + there buttressed, columned, and carved in quaint shapes, with deep alcoves + and sunken recesses. All about us are basins, excavated in the soft + sandstone; and these have been filled by the late rains. + </p> + <p> + Over the rounded rocks and water pockets we look off on a fine Stretch of + river, and beyond are naked rocks and beautiful buttes leading the eye to + the Azure Cliffs, and beyond these and above them the Brown Cliffs, and + still beyond, mountain peaks; and clouds piled over all. + </p> + <p> + On we go, after dinner, with quiet water, still compelled to row in order + to make fair progress. The canyon is yet very tortuous. About six miles + below noon camp we go around a great bend to the right, five miles in + length, and come back to a point within a quarter of a mile of where we + started. Then we sweep around another great bend to the left, making a + circuit of nine miles, and come back to a point within 600 yards of the + beginning of the bend. In the two circuits we describe almost the figure + 8. The men call it a "bowknot" of river; so we name it Bowknot Bend. The + line of the figure is 14 miles in length. + </p> + <p> + There is an exquisite charm in our ride to-day down this beautiful canyon. + It gradually grows deeper with every mile of travel; the walls are + symmetrically curved and grandly arched, of a beautiful color, and + reflected in the quiet waters in many places so as almost to deceive the + eye and suggest to the beholder the thought that he is looking into + profound depths. We are all in fine spirits and feel very gay, and the + badinage of the men is echoed from wall to wall. Now and then we whistle + or shout or discharge a pistol, to listen to the reverberations among the + cliffs. + </p> + <p> + At night we camp on the south side of the great Bowknot, and as + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">204</span><a name="link204" id="link204"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + we eat supper, which is spread on the beach, we name this Labyrinth + Canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 16.--</i>Still we go down on our winding way. Tower cliffs are + passed; then the river widens out for several miles, and meadows are seen + on either side between the river and the walls. We name this expansion of + the river Tower Park. At two o'clock we emerge from Labyrinth Canyon and + go into camp. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 17.</i>--The line which separates Labyrinth Canyon from the one + below is but a line, and at once, this morning, we enter another canyon. + The water fills the entire channel, so that nowhere is there room to land. + The walls are low, but vertical, and as we proceed they gradually increase + in altitude. Running a couple of miles, the river changes its course many + degrees toward the east. Just here a little stream comes in on the right + and the wall is broken down; so we land and go out to take + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-136.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-136.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE BUTTE OF THE CEOSS. + </p> + <p> + a view of the surrounding country. We are now down among the buttes, and + in a region the surface of which is naked, solid rock--a beautiful red + sandstone, forming a smooth, undulating pavement. The Indians call this + the <i>Toom'pin Tuweap',</i> or "Rock Land," and sometimes the <i>Toom'pin + wunear<sup>1</sup> Tuweap',</i> or "Land of Standing Rock." + </p> + <p> + Off to the south we see a butte in the form of a fallen cross. It is + several miles away, but it presents no inconspicuous figure on the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">205</span><a name="link205" id="link205"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-137.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-137.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + LAND OF THE STANDING ROCKS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">206</span><a name="link206" id="link206"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + landscape and must be many hundreds of feet high, probably more than + 2,000. We note its position on our map and name it "The Butte of the + Cross." + </p> + <p> + We continue our journey. In many places the walls, which rise from the + water's edge, are overhanging on either side. The stream is still quiet, + and we glide along through a strange, weird, grand region. The landscape + everywhere, away from the river, is of rock--cliffs of rock, tables of + rock, plateaus of rock, terraces of rock, crags of rock--ten thousand + strangely carved forms; rocks everywhere, and no vegetation, no soil, no + sand. In long, gentle curves the river winds about these rocks. + </p> + <p> + When thinking of these rocks one must not conceive of piles of boulders or + heaps of fragments, but of a whole land of naked rock, with giant forms + carved on it: cathedral-shaped buttes, towering hundreds or thousands of + feet, cliffs that cannot be scaled, and canyon walls that shrink the river + into insignificance, with vast, hollow domes and tall pinnacles and shafts + set on the verge overhead; and all highly colored--buff, gray, red, brown, + and chocolate--never lichened, never moss-covered, but bare, and often + polished. + </p> + <p> + We pass a place where two bends of the river come together, an intervening + rock having been worn away and a new channel formed across. The old + channel ran in a great circle around to the right, by what was once a + circular peninsula, then an island; then the water left the old channel + entirely and passed through the cut, and the old bed of the river is dry. + So the great circular rock stands by itself, with precipitous walls all + about it, and we find but one place where it can be scaled. Looking from + its summit, a long stretch of river is seen, sweeping close to the + overhanging cliffs on the right, but having a little meadow between it and + the wall on the left. The curve is very gentle and regular. We name this + Bonita Bend. + </p> + <p> + And just here we climb out once more, to take another bearing on The Butte + of the Cross. Reaching an eminence from which we can overlook the + landscape, we are surprised to find that our butte, with its wonderful + form, is indeed two buttes, one so standing in front of the other that + from our last point of view it gave the appearance of a cross. + </p> + <p> + A few miles below Bonita Bend we go out again a mile or two + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">207</span><a name="link207" id="link207"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-138.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-138.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOENKOPI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">208</span><a name="link208" id="link208"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-139.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-139.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ORAIBI HOUSES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. <span class="pagenum">209</span><a + name="link209" id="link209"></a> + </p> + <p> + among the rocks, toward the Orange Cliffs, passing over terraces paved + with jasper. The cliffs are not far away and we soon reach them, and + wander in some deep, painted alcoves which attracted our attention from + the river; then we return to our boats. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon the water becomes swift and our boats make great + speed.. An hour of this rapid running brings us to the junction of the + Grand and Green, the foot of Stillwater Canyon, as we have named it. These + streams-unite in solemn depths, more than 1,200 feet below the general + surface of the country. The walls of the lower end of Stillwater Canyon + are very beautifully curved, as the river sweeps in its meandering course. + The lower end of the canyon through which the Grand comes down is also + regular, but much more direct, and we look up this stream and out into the + country beyond and obtain glimpses of snow-clad peaks, the summits of a + group of mountains known as the Sierra La Sal. Down the Colorado the + canyon walls are much broken. + </p> + <p> + We row around into the Grand and camp on its northwest bank; and here we + propose to stay several days, for the purpose of determining the latitude + and longitude and the altitude of the walls. Much of the night is spent in + making observations with the sextant. + </p> + <p> + The distance from the mouth of the Uinta to the head of the Canyon of + Desolation is 20 3/4 miles. The Canyon of Desolation is 97 miles long; + Gray Canyon, 36 miles. The course of the river through Gunnison Valley is + 27 1/4 miles; Labyrinth Canyon, 62 1/2 miles. + </p> + <p> + In the Canyon of Desolation the highest rocks immediately over the river + are about 2,400 feet. This is at Log Cabin Cliff. The highest part of the + terrace is near the brink of the Brown Cliffs. Climbing the immediate + walls of the canyon and passing back to the canyon terrace and climbing + that, we find the altitude above the river to be 3,300 feet. The lower end + of Gray Canyon is about 2,000 feet; the lower end of Labyrinth Canyon, + 1,300 feet. + </p> + <p> + Stillwater Canyon is 42 3/4 miles long; the highest walls, 1,300 feet. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">210</span><a name="link210" id="link210"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-140.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-140.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE HEART OF MARBLE CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">211</span><a name="link211" id="link211"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + CHAPTER X. + </p> + <p> + FROM THE JUNCTION OF THE GRAND AND GREEN TO THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE + COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + JULY 18.--The day is spent in obtaining the time and spreading our + rations, which we find are badly injured. The flour has been wet and dried + so many times that it is all musty and full of hard lumps. We make a sieve + of mosquito netting and run our flour through, it, losing more than 200 + pounds by the process. Our losses, by the wrecking of the "No Name," and + by various mishaps since, together with the amount thrown away to-day, + leave us little more than two months' supplies, and to make them last thus + long we must be fortunate enough to lose no more. + </p> + <p> + We drag our boats on shore and turn them over to recalk and pitch them, + and Sumner is engaged in repairing barometers. While we are here for a day + or two, resting, we propose to put everything in the best shape for a + vigorous campaign. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 19.--</i>Bradley and I start this morning to climb the left wall + below the junction. The way we have selected is up a gulch. Climbing for + an hour over and among the rocks, we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater + and our way cut off. We clamber around to the left for half an hour, until + we find that we cannot go up in that direction. Then we try the rocks + around to the right and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long. + In some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease; in others it + is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and crawl. We + can look over the edge of the shelf, down 800 feet, and see the river + rolling and plunging among the rocks. Looking up 500 feet to the brink of + the cliff, it seems to blend with the sky. We continue along until we come + to a point where the wall is again broken down. Up we climb. On the right + there is a narrow, mural point + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">212</span><a name="link212" id="link212"></a> 2 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + of rocks, extending toward the river, 200 or 300 feet high and 600 or 800 + feet long. We come back to where this sets in and find it cut off from the + main wall by a great crevice. Into this we pass; and now a long, narrow + rock is between us and the river. The rock itself is split longitudinally + and transversely; and the rains on the surface above have run down through + the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off into the + river. The crevices are usually narrow above and, by erosion of the + streams, wider below, forming a network of "caves", each cave having a + narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks. We wander among these + corridors for an hour or two, but find no place where the rocks are broken + down so that we can climb up. At last we determine to attempt a passage by + a crevice, and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the + passage of our bodies and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our + hands and feet against the walls. So we climb as men would out of a well. + Bradley climbs first; I hand him the barometer, then climb over his head + and he hands me the barometer. So we pass each other alternately until we + emerge from the fissure, out on the summit of the rock. And what a world + of grandeur is spread before us! Below is the canyon through which the + Colorado runs. We can trace its course for miles, and at points catch + glimpses of the river. From the northwest comes the Green in a narrow + winding gorge. From the northeast comes the Grand, through a canyon that + seems bottomless from where we stand. Away to the west are lines of cliffs + and ledges of rock--not such ledges as the reader may have seen where the + quarryman splits his blocks, but ledges from which the gods might quarry + mountains that, rolled out on the plain below, would stand a lofty range; + and not such cliffs as the reader may have seen where the swallow builds + its nest, but cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view ere he + reaches the summit. Between us and the distant cliffs are the strangely + carved and pinnacled rocks of the <i>Toom'pin wunear' Tuweap'.</i> On the + summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock forms that we do not + understand. Away to the east a group of eruptive mountains are seen--the + Sierra La Sal, which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the + Grand. Their slopes are covered with pines, and deep gulches are flanked + with great crags, and snow fields are seen near the summits. So the moun- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">213</span><a name="link213" id="link213"></a> + </p> + <p> + tains are in uniform,--green, gray, and silver. Wherever we look there is + but a wilderness of rocks,--deep gorges where the rivers are lost below + cliffs and towers and pinnacles, and ten thousand strangely carved forms + in every direction, and beyond them mountains blending with the clouds. + </p> + <p> + Now we return to camp. While eating supper we very naturally speak of + better fare, as musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable. Soon I + see Hawkins down by the boat, taking up the sextant--rather a strange + proceeding for him--and I question him concerning it. He replies that he + is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest pie. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 20.--</i>This morning Captain Powell and I go out to climb the + west wall of the canyon, for the purpose of examining the strange rocks + seen yesterday from the other side. Two hours bring us to the top, at a + point between the Green and Colorado overlooking the junction of the + rivers. + </p> + <p> + A long neck of rock extends toward the mouth of the Grand. Out on this we + walk, crossing a great number of deep crevices. Usually the smooth rock + slopes down to the fissure on either side. Sometimes + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-141.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-141.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A LATERAL CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">214</span><a name="link214" id="link214"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + it is an interesting question to us whether the slope is not so steep that + we cannot stand on it. Sometimes, starting down, we are compelled to go + on, and when we measure the crevice with our eye from above we are not + always sure that it is not too wide for a jump. Probably the slopes would + not be difficult if there was not a fissure at the lower end; nor would + the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet deep. It is curious + how a little obstacle becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would + land a man in the bottom of a deep chasm. Climbing the face of a cliff, a + man will without hesitancy walk along a step or shelf but a few inches + wide if the landing is but ten feet below, but if the foot of the cliff is + a thousand feet down he will prefer to crawl along the shelf. At last our + way is cut off by a fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it. Then + we turn and walk back into the country, over the smooth, naked sandstone, + without vegetation, except that here and there dwarf cedars and piñón + pines have found a footing in the huge cracks. There are great basins in + the rock, holding water,--some but a few gallons, others hundreds of + barrels. + </p> + <p> + The day is spent in walking about through these strange scenes. A narrow + gulch is cut into the wall of the main canyon. Follow this up and the + climb is rapid, as if going up a mountain side, for the gulch heads but a + few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall. But this gulch has its + side gulches, and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons + is found. The spaces drained by these little canyons are terraced, and + are, to a greater or less extent, of the form of amphitheaters, though + some are oblong and some rather irregular. Usually the spaces drained by + any two of these little side canyons are separated by a narrow wall, 100, + 200, or 300 feet high, and often but a few feet in thickness. Sometimes + the wall is broken into a line of pyramids above and still remains a wall + below. There are a number of these gulches which break the wall of the + main canyon of the Green, each one having its system of side canyons and + amphitheaters, inclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles. The course of the + Green at this point is approximately at right angles to that of the + Colorado, and on the brink of the latter canyon we find the same system of + terraced and walled glens. The walls and pinnacles and towers are of + sandstone, homogeneous in structure but not in color, as they show broad + bands of red, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">215</span><a + name="link215" id="link215"></a> + </p> + <p> + buff, and gray. This painting of the rocks, dividing them into sections, + increases their apparent height. In some places these terraced and walled + glens along the Colorado have coalesced with those along the Green; that + is, the intervening walls are broken down. It is very rarely that a loose + rock is seen. The sand is washed off, so that the walls, terraces, and + slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone. + </p> + <p> + In the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved. In + some places there are little stairways up the walls; in others, the walls + present what are known as royal arches; and so we wander through glens and + among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the + afternoon. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 21.--</i>We start this morning on the Colorado. The river is + rough, and bad rapids in close succession are found. Two very hard + portages are made during the forenoon. After dinner, in running a rapid, + the "Emma Dean" is swamped and we are thrown into the river; we cling to + the boat, and in the first quiet water below she is righted and bailed + out; but three oars are lost in this mishap. The larger boats land above + the dangerous place, and we make a portage, which occupies + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-142.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-142.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A TUSAYAN MEALING TROUGH. + </p> + <p> + all the afternoon. We camp at night on the rocks on the left bank, and can + scarcely find room to lie down. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 22.--</i>This morning we continue our journey, though short of + oars. There is no timber growing on the walls within our reach and no + driftwood along the banks, so we are compelled to go on until something + suitable can be found. A mile and three quarters below, we find + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">216</span><a name="link216" id="link216"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + a huge pile of driftwood, among which are some cottonwood logs. From these + we select one which we think the best, and the men are set at work sawing + oars. Our boats are leaking again, from the strains received in the bad + rapids yesterday, so after dinner they are turned over and some of the men + calk them. + </p> + <p> + Captain Powell and I go out to climb the wall to the east, for we can see + dwarf pines above, and it is our purpose to collect the resin which oozes + from them, to use in pitching our boats. We take a barometer with us and + find that the walls are becoming higher, for now they register an altitude + above the river of nearly 1,500 feet. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 23.</i>--On starting, we come at once to difficult rapids and + falls, that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons + through which we have passed, and we decide to name this Cataract Canyon. + From morning until noon the course of the river is to the west; the + scenery is grand, with rapids, and falls below, and walls above, beset + with crags and pinnacles. Just at noon we wheel again to the south and go + into camp for dinner. + </p> + <p> + While the cook is preparing it, Bradley, Captain Powell, and I go up into + a side canyon that comes in at this point. We enter through a very narrow + passage, having to wade along the course of a little stream until a + cascade interrupts our progress. Then we climb to the right for a hundred + feet until we reach a little shelf, along which we pass, walking with + great care, for it is narrow; thus we pass around the fall. Here the gorge + widens into a spacious, sky-roofed chamber. In the farther end is a + beautiful grove of cottonwoods, and between us and the cotton-woods the + little stream widens out into three clear lakelets with bottoms of smooth + rock. Beyond the cottonwoods the brook tumbles in a series of white, + shining cascades from heights that seem immeasurable. Turning around, we + can look through the cleft through which we came and see the river with + towering walls beyond. What a chamber for a resting-place is this! hewn + from the solid rock, the heavens for a ceiling, cascade fountains within, + a grove in the conservatory, clear lakelets for a refreshing bath, and an + outlook through the doorway on a raging river, with cliffs and mountains + beyond. + </p> + <p> + Our way after dinner is through a gorge, grand beyond description. The + walls are nearly vertical, the river broad and swift, but free from + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">217</span><a + name="link217" id="link217"></a> + </p> + <p> + rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it + is 1,600 to 1,800 feet. At this great depth the river rolls in solemn + majesty. The cliffs are reflected from the more quiet river, and we seem + to be in the depths of the earth, and yet we can look down into waters + that reflect a bottomless abyss. Early in the afternoon we arrive + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-143.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-143.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE HEART OF CATARACT CANYON. + </p> + <p> + at the head of more rapids and falls, but, wearied with past work, we + determine to rest, so go into camp, and the afternoon and evening are + spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully + navigating the river below. The barometric records are examined to see + what descent we have made since we left the mouth of the Grand, and what + descent since we left the Pacific Railroad, and what fall there yet + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">218</span><a name="link218" id="link218"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + must be to the river ere we reach the end of the great canyons. The + conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be about this: that there are + great descents yet to be made, but if they are distributed in rapids and + short falls, as they have been heretofore, we shall be able to overcome + them; but may be we shall come to a fall in these canyons which we cannot + pass, where the walls rise from the water's edge, so that we cannot land, + and where the water is so swift that we cannot return. Such places have + been found, except that the falls were not so great but that we could run + them with safety. How will it be in the future t So they speculate over + the serious probabilities in jesting mood. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 24.--</i>We examine the rapids below. Large rocks have fallen from + the walls--great, angular blocks, which have rolled down the talus and are + strewn along the channel. We are compelled to make three portages in + succession, the distance being less than three fourths of a mile, with a + fall of 75 feet. Among these rocks, in chutes, whirlpools, and great + waves, with rushing breakers and foam, the water finds its way, still + tumbling down. We stop for the night only three fourths of a mile below + the last camp. A very hard day's work has been done, and at evening I sit + on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the water and listen to its + roar. Hours ago deep shadows settled into the canyon, as the sun passed + behind the cliffs. Now, doubtless, the sun has gone down, for we can see + no glint of light on the crags above. Darkness is coming on; but the waves + are rolling with crests of foam so white they seem almost to give a light + of their own. Near by, a chute of water strikes the foot of a great block + of limestone 50 feet high, and the waters pile up against it and roll + back. Where there are sunken rocks the water heaps up in mounds, or even + in cones. At a point where rocks come very near the surface, the water + forms a chute above, strikes, and is shot up 10 or 15 feet, and piles back + in gentle curves, as in a fountain; and on the river tumbles and rolls. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 25.--</i>Still more rapids and falls to-day. In one, the "Emma + Dean" is caught in a whirlpool and set spinning about, and it is with + great difficulty we are able to get out of it with only the loss of an + oar. At noon another is made; and on we go, running some of the rapids, + letting down with lines past others, and making two short portages. We + camp on the right bank, hungry and tired. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">219</span><a name="link219" id="link219"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>July 26.--</i>We run a short distance this morning and go into camp to + make oars and repair boats and barometers. The walls of the canyon have + been steadily increasing in altitude to this point, and now they are more + than 2,000 feet high. In many places they are vertical from the water's + edge; in others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the + cliff; and they are often broken down by side canyons. It is probable that + the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found. High-water mark can be + observed 40, 50, 60, or 100 feet above its present stage. Sometimes logs + and driftwood are seen wedged into the crevices over-head, where floods + have carried them. + </p> + <p> + About ten o'clock, Powell, Bradley, Howland, Hall, and I start + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-144.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-144.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WATER BASIN IN GYPSUM CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">220</span><a name="link220" id="link220"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water; then to a + brook, which is lost in the sands below; and passing up the brook, we see + that the canyon narrows, the walls close in and are often overhanging, and + at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with a pool of deep, + clear, cold water on the bottom. At first our way seems cut off; but we + soon discover a little shelf, along which we climb, and, passing beyond + the pool, walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the right, and find + ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater. There is a winding cleft at + the top, reaching out to the country above, nearly 2,000 feet overhead. + The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with water to the foot of the + walls. There is no shelf by which we can pass around the foot. If we swim + across we meet with a face of rock hundreds of feet high, over which a + little rill glides, and it will be impossible to climb. So we can go no + farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and examine the walls on either + side carefully, to discover, if possible, some way of climbing out. In + this search every man takes his own course, and we are scattered. I almost + abandon the idea of getting out and am engaged in searching for fossils, + when I discover, on the north, a broken place lip which it may be possible + to climb. The way for a distance is up a slide of rocks; then up an + irregular amphitheater, on points that form steps and give handhold; and + then I reach a little shelf, along which I walk, and discover a vertical + fissure parallel to the face of the wall and reaching to a higher shelf. + This fissure is narrow and I try to climb up to the bench, which is about + 40 feet overhead. I have a barometer on my back, which rather impedes my + climbing. The walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone, offering + neither foothold nor handhold. So I support myself by pressing my back + against one wall and my knees against the other, and in this way lift my + body, in a shuffling manner, a few inches at a time, until I have made + perhaps 25 feet of the distance, when the crevice widens a little and I + cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to + give me support in lifting my body; so I try to go back. This I cannot do + without falling. So I struggle along sidewise farther into the crevice, + where it narrows. But by this time my muscles are exhausted, and I cannot + climb longer; so I move still a little farther into the crevice, where it + is so narrow and wedging that I can lie in it, and there + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">221</span><a name="link221" id="link221"></a> + </p> + <p> + I rest. Five or ten minutes of this relief, and up once more I go, and + reach the bench above. On this I can walk for a quarter of a mile, till I + come to a place where the wall is again broken down, so I can climb up + still farther; and in an hour I reach the summit. I hang up my barometer + to give it a few minutes' time to settle, and occupy myself in collecting + resin from the piñón pines, which are found in great + abundance. One of the principal objects in making this climb was to get + this resin for the purpose of smearing our boats; but I have with me no + means of carrying it down. The day is very hot and my coat was left in + camp, so I have no linings to tear out. Then it occurs to me to cut off + the sleeve of my shirt and tie it up at one end, and in this little sack I + collect about a gallon of pitch. After taking observations for altitude, I + wander back on the rock for an hour or two, when suddenly I notice that a + storm is coming from the south. I seek a shelter in the rocks; but when + the storm + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-145.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-145.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE WATER POCKET CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">222</span><a name="link222" id="link222"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-146.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-146.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PLAN OF THE RUIN OF KIN-TIEL, NEAR TUSAYAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">223</span><a + name="link223" id="link223"></a> + </p> + <p> + bursts, it comes down as a flood from the heavens,--not with gentle drops + at first, slowly increasing in quantity, but as if suddenly poured out. I + am thoroughly drenched and almost washed away. It lasts not more than half + an hour, when the clouds sweep by to the north and I have sunshine again. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime I have discovered a better way of getting down, and start + for camp, making the greatest haste possible. On reaching the bottom of + the side canyon, I find a thousand streams rolling down the cliffs on + every side, carrying with them red sand; and these all unite in the canyon + below in one great stream of red mud. + </p> + <p> + Traveling as fast as I can run, I soon reach the foot of the stream, for + the rain did not reach the lower end of the canyon and the water is + running down a dry bed of sand; and although it conies in waves several + feet high and 15 or 20 feet in width, the sands soak it up and it is lost. + But wave follows wave and rolls along and is swallowed up; and still the + floods come on from above. I find that I can travel faster than the + stream; so I hasten to camp and tell the men there is a river coming down + the canyon. We carry our camp equipage hastily from the bank to where we + think it will be above the water. Then we stand by and see the river roll + on to join the Colorado. Great quantities of gypsum are found at the + bottom of the gorge; so we name it Gypsum Canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 27.--</i>We have more rapids and falls until noon; then we come to + a narrow place in the canyon, with vertical walls for several hundred + feet, above which are steep steps and sloping rocks back to the summits. + The river is very narrow, and we make our way with great care and much + anxiety, hugging the wall on the left and carefully examining the way + before us. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we pass to the left around a sharp point, which is + somewhat broken down near the foot, and discover a flock of mountain sheep + on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us. We land quickly in a cove + out of sight, and away go all the hunters with their guns, for the sheep + have not discovered us. Soon we hear firing, and those of us who have + remained in the boats climb up to see what success the hunters have had. + One sheep has been killed, and two of the men are still pursuing them. In + a few minutes we hear firing again, and the next moment down come the + flock clattering over the rocks within <span class="pagenum">20</span><a + name="link20" id="link20_"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">224</span><a name="link224" id="link224"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + yards of us. One of the hunters seizes his gun and brings a second sheep + down, and the next minute the remainder of the flock is lost behind the + rocks. We all give chase; but it is impossible to follow their tracks over + the naked rock, and we see them no more. Where they went out of this + rock-walled canyon is a mystery, for we can see no way of escape. + Doubtless, if we could spare the time for the search, we should find a + gulch up which they ran. + </p> + <p> + We lash our prizes to the deck of one of the boats and go on for a short + distance; but fresh meat is too tempting for us, and we stop early to have + a feast. And a feast it is! Two fine young sheep! We care not for bread or + beans or dried apples to-night; coffee and mutton are all we ask. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 28.</i>--We make two portages this morning, one of them very long. + During the afternoon we run a chute more than half a mile in length, + narrow and rapid. This chute has a floor of marble; the rocks dip in the + direction in which we are going, and the fall of the stream conforms to + the inclination of the beds; so we float on water that is gliding down an + inclined plane. At the foot of the chute the river turns sharply to the + right and the water rolls up against a rock which from above seems to + stand directly athwart its course. As we approach it we pull with all our + power to the right, but it seems impossible to avoid being carried + headlong against the cliff; we are carried up high on the waves--but not + against the rock, for the rebounding water strikes us and we are beaten + back and pass on with safety, except that we get a good drenching. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">225</span><a name="link225" id="link225"></a> + </p> + <p> + After this the walls suddenly close in, so that the canyon is narrower + than we have ever known it. The water fills it from wall to wall, giving + us no landing-place at the foot of the cliff; the river is very swift and + the canyon very tortuous, so that we can see but a few hundred yards + ahead; the walls tower over us, often overhanging so as almost to shut out + the light. I stand on deck, watching with intense anxiety, lest this may + lead us into some danger; but we glide along, with no obstruction, no + falls, no rocks, and in a mile and a half emerge from the narrow gorge + into a more open and broken portion of the canyon. Now that it is past, it + seems a very simple thing indeed to run through such a place, but the fear + of what might be ahead made a deep impression on us. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">225</span><a name="link225" id="link225_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-147.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-147.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PESCADO HOUSES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">226</span><a name="link226" id="link226"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + At three o'clock we arrive at the foot of Cataract Canyon. Here a long + canyon valley comes down from the east, and the river turns sharply to the + west in a continuation of the line of the lateral valley. In the bend on + the right vast numbers of crags and pinnacles and tower-shaped rocks are + seen. We call it Mille Crag Bend. + </p> + <p> + And now we wheel into another canyon, on swift water unobstructed by + rocks. This new canyon is very narrow and very straight, with walls + vertical below and terraced above. Where we enter it the brink of + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-148.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-148.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + REPAIRING BOATS AT THE MOUTH OF DIRTY DEVIL RIVER. + </p> + <p> + the cliff is 1,300 feet above the water, but the rocks dip to the west, + and as the course of the canyon is in that direction the walls are seen + slowly to decrease in altitude. Floating down this narrow channel and + looking + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + PROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">227</span><a + name="link227" id="link227"></a> + </p> + <p> + out through the canyon crevice away in the distance, the river is seen to + turn again to the left, and beyond this point, away many miles, a great + mountain is seen. Still floating down, we see other mountains, now on the + right, now on the left, until a great mountain range is unfolded to view. + We name this Narrow Canyon, and it terminates at the bend of the river + below. + </p> + <p> + As we go down to this point we discover the mouth of a stream which enters + from the right. Into this our little boat is turned. The water is + exceedingly muddy and has an unpleasant odor. One of the men in the boat + following, seeing what we have done, shouts to 'Dunn and asks whether it + is a trout stream. Dunn replies, much disgusted, that it is "a dirty + devil," and by this name the river is to be known hereafter. + </p> + <p> + Some of us go out for half a mile and climb a butte to the north. The + course of the Dirty Devil River can be traced for many miles. It comes + down through a very narrow canyon, and beyond it, to the southwest, there + is a long line of cliffs, with a broad terrace, or bench, between it and + the brink of the canyon, and beyond these cliffs is situated the range of + mountains seen as we came down Narrow Canyon. Looking up the Colorado, the + chasm through which it runs can be seen, but we cannot see down to its + waters. The whole country is a region of naked rock of many colors, with + cliffs and buttes about us and towering mountains in the distance. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 29.</i>--We enter a canyon to-day, with low, red walls. A short + distance below its head we discover the ruins of an old building on the + left wall. There is a narrow plain between the river and the wall just + here, and on the brink of a rock 200 feet high stands this old house. Its + walls are of stone, laid in mortar with much regularity. It was probably + built three stories high; the lower story is yet almost intact; the second + is much broken down, and scarcely anything is left of the third. Great + quantities of flint chips are found on the rocks near by, and many + arrowheads, some perfect, others broken; and fragments of pottery are + strewn about in great profusion. On the face of the cliff, under the + building and along down the river for 200 or 300 yards, there are many + etchings. Two hours are given to the examination of these interesting + ruins; then we run down fifteen miles farther, and discover another group. + The principal building was situated on the summit of the hill. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">228</span><a name="link228" id="link228"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + A part of the walls are standing, to the height of eight or ten feet, and + the mortar yet remains in some places. The house was in the shape of an L, + with five rooms on the ground floor,--one in the angle and two in each + extension. In the space in the angle there is a deep excavation. From what + we know of the people in the Province of Tusayan, who are, doubtless, of + the same race as the former inhabitants of these ruins, we conclude that + this was a <i>kiva,</i> or underground chamber in which their religious + ceremonies were performed. + </p> + <p> + We leave these ruins and run down two or three miles and go into camp + about mid-afternoon. And now I climb the wall and go out into the back + country for a walk. + </p> + <p> + The sandstone through which the canyon is cut is red and homogeneous, + being the same as that through which Labyrinth Canyon runs. The smooth, + naked rock stretches out on either side of the river for many miles, but + curiously carved mounds and cones are scattered everywhere and deep holes + are worn out. Many of these pockets are filled with water. In one of these + holes or wells, 20 feet deep, I find a tree growing. The excavation is so + narrow that I can step from its brink to a limb on the tree and descend to + the bottom of the well down a growing ladder. Many of these pockets + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-149.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-149.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUINS ON THE BRINK OF GLEN CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">229</span><a + name="link229" id="link229"></a> + </p> + <p> + are potholes, being found in the courses of little rills or brooks that + run during the rains which occasionally fall in this region; and often a + few harder rocks, which evidently assisted in their excavation, can be + found in their bottoms. Others, which are shallower, are not so easily + explained. Perhaps where they are found softer spots existed in the + sandstone, places that yielded more readily to atmospheric degradation, + the loose sands being carried away by the winds. + </p> + <p> + Just before sundown I attempt to climb a rounded eminence, from which I + hope to obtain a good outlook on the surrounding country. It is formed of + smooth mounds, piled one above another. Up these I climb, winding here and + there to find a practicable way, until near the summit they become too + steep for me to proceed. I search about a few minutes for an easier way, + when I am surprised at finding a stairway, evidently cut in the rock by + hands. At one place, where there is a vertical wall of 10 or 12 feet, I + find an old, rickety ladder. It may be that this was a watchtower of that + ancient people whose homes we have found in ruins. On many of the + tributaries of the Colorado, I have heretofore examined their deserted + dwellings. Those that show evidences of being built during the latter part + of their occupation of the country are usually placed on the most + inaccessible cliffs. Sometimes the mouths of caves have been walled + across, and there are many other evidences to show their anxiety to secure + defensible positions. Probably the nomadic tribes were sweeping down upon + them and they resorted to these cliffs and canyons for safety. It is not + unreasonable to suppose that this orange mound was used as a watchtower. + Here I stand, where these now lost people stood centuries ago, and look + over this strange country, gazing off to great mountains in the northwest + which are slowly disappearing under cover of the night; and then I return + to camp. It is no easy task to find my way down the wall in the darkness, + and I clamber about until it is nearly midnight when camp is reached. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 30.--</i>We make good progress to-day, as the water, though + smooth, is swift. Sometimes the canyon walls are vertical to the top; + sometimes they are vertical below and have a mound-covered slope above; in + other places the slope, with its mounds, comes down to the water's edge. + </p> + <p> + Still proceeding on our way, we find that the orange sandstone is cut in + two by a group of firm, calcareous strata, and the lower bed is under- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">230</span><a name="link230" id="link230"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + laid by soft, gypsiferous shales. Sometimes the upper homogeneous bed is a + smooth, vertical wall, but usually it is carved with mounds, with gently + meandering valley lines. The lower bed, yielding to gravity, as the softer + shales below work, out into the river, breaks into angular surfaces, often + having a columnar appearance. One could almost imagine that the walls had + been carved with a purpose, to represent giant architectural forms. In the + deep recesses of the walls we find springs, with mosses and ferns on the + moistened sandstone. + </p> + <p> + <i>July 31.--</i>We have a cool, pleasant ride to-day through this part of + the canyon. The walls are steadily increasing in altitude, the curves are + gentle, and often the river sweeps by an arc of vertical wall, smooth and + unbroken, and then by a curve that is variegated by royal arches, mossy + alcoves, deep, beautiful glens, and painted grottoes. Soon after dinner we + discover the mouth of the San Juan, where we camp. The remainder of the + afternoon is given to hunting some way by which we can climb out of the + canyon; but it ends in failure. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 1.--</i>We drop down two miles this morning and go into camp + again. There is a low, willow-covered strip of land along the walls on the + east. Across this we walk, to explore an alcove which we see from the + river. On entering, we find a little grove of box-elder and cotton-wood + trees, and turning to the right, we find ourselves in a vast chamber, + carved out of the rock. At the upper end there is a clear, deep pool of + water, bordered with verdure. Standing by the side of this, we can see the + grove at the entrance. The chamber is more than 200 feet high, 500 feet + long, and 200 feet wide. Through the ceiling, and on through the rocks for + a thousand feet above, there is a narrow, winding skylight; and this is + all carved out by a little stream which runs only during the few showers + that fall now and then in this arid country. The waters from the bare + rocks back of the canyon, gathering rapidly into a small channel, have + eroded a deep side canyon, through which they run until they fall into the + farther end of this chamber. The rock at the ceiling is hard, the rock + below, very soft and friable; and having cut through the upper and harder + portion down into the lower and softer, the stream has washed out these + friable sandstones; and thus the chamber has been excavated. + </p> + <p> + Here we bring our camp. When "Old Shady" sings us a song at + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">231</span><a name="link231" id="link231"></a> + </p> + <p> + night, we are pleased to find that this hollow in the rock is filled with + sweet sounds. It was doubtless made for an academy of music by its + storm-born architect; so we name it Music Temple. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 2.--</i>We still keep our camp in Music Temple to-day. I wish to + obtain a view of the adjacent country, if possible; so, early in the + morning the men take me across the river, and I pass along by the foot of + the cliff half a mile up stream and then climb, first up broken ledges, + then 200 or 300 yards up a smooth, sloping rock, and then pass out on a + narrow ridge. Still, I find I have not attained an altitude from which I + can overlook the region outside of the canyon; and so I descend into a + little gulch and climb again to a higher ridge, all the way along naked + sandstone, and at last I reach a point of commanding view. I can look + several miles up the San Juan, and a long distance up the Colorado; and + away to the northwest I can see the Henry Mountains; to the northeast, the + Sierra La Sal; to the southeast, unknown mountains; and to the southwest, + the meandering of the canyon. Then I return to the bank of the river. We + sleep again in Music Temple. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 3.--</i>Start early this morning. The features of this canyon + are greatly diversified. Still vertical walls at times. These are usually + found to stand above great curves. The river, sweeping around these + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-150.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-150.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ISLAND MONUMENT IN GLEN CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">232</span><a name="link232" id="link232"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + bends, undermines the cliffs in places. Sometimes the rocks are + overhanging; in other curves, curious, narrow glens are found. Through + these we climb, by a rough stairway, perhaps several hundred feet, to + where a spring bursts out from under an overhanging cliff, and where + cottonwoods and willows stand, while along the curves of the brooklet oaks + grow, and other rich vegetation is seen, in marked contrast to the general + appearance of naked rock. We call these Oak Glens. + </p> + <p> + Other wonderful features are the many side canyons or gorges that we pass. + Sometimes we stop to explore these for a short distance. In some places + their walls are much nearer each other above than below, so that they look + somewhat like caves or chambers in the rocks. Usually, in going up such a + gorge, we find beautiful vegetation; but our way is often cut off by deep + basins, or "potholes," as they are called. + </p> + <p> + On the walls, and back many miles into the country, numbers of + monument-shaped buttes are observed. So we have a curious <i>ensemble</i> + of wonderful features--carved walls, royal arches, glens, alcove gulches, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-151.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-151.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GLEN CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">233</span><a + name="link233" id="link233"></a> + </p> + <p> + mounds, and monuments. From which of these features shall we select a + name? We decide to call it Glen Canyon. + </p> + <p> + Past these towering monuments, past these mounded billows of orange + sandstone, past these oak-set glens, past these fern-decked alcoves, past + these mural curves, we glide hour after hour, stopping now and then, as + our attention is arrested by some new wonder, until we reach a point which + is historic. + </p> + <p> + In the year 1776, Father Escalante, a Spanish priest, made an expedition + from Santa Fe to the northwest, crossing the Grand and Green, and then + passing down along the Wasatch Mountains and the southern plateaus until + he reached the Rio Virgen. His intention was to cross to the Mission of + Monterey; but, from information received from the Indians, he decided that + the route was impracticable. Not wishing to return to Santa Fe over the + circuitous route by which he had just traveled, he attempted to go by one + more direct, which led him across the Colorado at a point known as El Vado + de los Padres. From the description which we have read, we are enabled to + determine the place. A little stream comes down through a very narrow side + canyon from the west. It was down this that he came, and our boats are + lying at the point where the ford crosses. A well-beaten Indian trail is + seen here yet. Between the cliff and the river there is a little meadow. + The ashes of many camp fires are seen, and the bones of numbers of cattle + are bleaching on the grass. For several years the Navajos have raided on + the Mormons that dwell in the valleys to the west, and they doubtless + cross frequently at this ford with their stolen cattle. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 4.--</i>To-day the walls grow higher and the canyon much + narrower. Monuments are still seen on either side; beautiful glens and + alcoves and gorges and side canyons are yet found. After dinner we find + the river making a sudden turn to the northwest and the whole character of + the canyon changed. The walls are many hundreds of feet higher, and the + rocks are chiefly variegated shales of beautiful colors--creamy orange + above, then bright vermilion, and below, purple and chocolate beds, with + green and yellow sands. We run four miles through this, in a direction a + little to the west of north, wheel again to the west, and pass into a + portion of the canyon where the characteristics are more like those above + the bend. At night we stop at the mouth of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">234</span><a name="link234" id="link234"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + a creek coming in from the right, and suppose it to be the Paria, which + was described to me last year by a Mormon missionary. Here the canyon + terminates abruptly in a line of cliffs, which stretches from either side + across the river. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 5.--</i>With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this + morning. We have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock. In + softer strata we have a quiet river, in harder we find rapids and falls. + Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in Cataract + Canyon. This bodes toil and danger. Besides the texture of the rocks, + there is another condition which affects the character of the channel, as + we have found by experience. Where the strata are horizontal the river is + often quiet, and, even though it may be very swift in places, no great + obstacles are found. Where the rocks incline in the direction traveled, + the river usually sweeps with great velocity, but still has few rapids and + falls. But where the rocks dip up stream and the river cuts obliquely + across the upturned formations, harder strata above and softer below, we + have rapids and falls. Into hard rocks and into rocks dipping up stream we + pass this morning and start on a long, rocky, mad rapid. On the left there + is a vertical rock, and down by this cliff and around to the left we + glide, tossed just enough by the waves to appreciate the rate at which we + are traveling. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">235</span><a name="link235" id="link235"></a> + </p> + <p> + The canyon is narrow, with vertical walls, which gradually grow higher. + More rapids and falls are found. We come to one with a drop of sixteen + feet, around which we make a portage, and then stop for dinner. Then a run + of two miles, and another portage, long and difficult; then we camp for + the night on a bank of sand. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 6.--</i>Canyon walls, still higher and higher, as we go down + through strata. There is a steep talus at the foot of the cliff, and in + some places the upper parts of the walls are terraced. + </p> + <p> + About ten o'clock we come to a place where the river occupies the entire + channel and the walls are vertical from the water's edge. We see a fall + below and row up against the cliff. There is a little shelf, or rather a + horizontal crevice, a few feet over our heads. One man stands on the deck + of the boat, another climbs on his shoulders, and then into the crevice. + Then we pass him a line, and two or three others, with myself, follow; + then we pass along the crevice until it becomes a shelf, as + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">235</span><a name="link235" id="link235_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-152.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-152.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ENCLOSING WALL OF UPRIGHT STONES AT OJO CALIENTE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">236</span><a name="link236" id="link236"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the upper part, or roof, is broken off. On this we walk for a short + distance, slowly climbing all the way, until we reach a point where the + shelf is broken off, and we can pass no farther. So we go back to the + boat, cross the stream, and get some logs that have lodged in the rocks, + bring them to our side, pass them along the crevice and shelf, and bridge + over the broken place. Then we go on to a point over the falls, but do not + obtain a satisfactory view. So we climb out to the top of the wall and + walk along to find a point below the fall from which it can be seen. From + this point it seems possible to let down our boats with lines to the head + of the rapids, and then make a portage; so we return, row down by the side + of the cliff as far as we dare, and fasten one of the boats to a rock. + Then we let down another boat to the end of its line beyond the first, and + the third boat to the end of its line below the second, which brings it to + the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock. Then the upper boat, + in obedience to a signal, lets go; we pull in the line and catch the + nearest boat as it comes, and then the last. The portage follows. + </p> + <p> + We go into camp early this afternoon at a place where it seems possible to + climb out, and the evening is spent in "making observations for time." + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-153.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-153.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MARBLE CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">237</span><a + name="link237" id="link237"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>August 7.--</i>The almanac tells us that we are to have an eclipse of + the sun to-day; so Captain Powell and myself start early, taking our + instruments with us for the purpose of making observations on the eclipse + to determine our longitude. Arriving at the summit, after four hours' hard + climbing to attain <i>2,300</i> feet in height, we hurriedly build a + platform of rocks on which to place our instruments, and quietly wait for + the eclipse; but clouds come on and rain falls, and sun and moon are + obscured. + </p> + <p> + Much disappointed, we start on our return to camp, but it is late and the + clouds make the night very dark. We feel our way down among the rocks with + great care for two or three hours, making slow progress indeed. At last we + lose our way and dare proceed no farther. The rain comes down in torrents + and we can find no shelter. We can neither climb up nor go down, and in + the darkness dare not move about; so we sit and "weather out" the night. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 8.--</i>Daylight comes after a long, oh, how long! a night, and + we soon reach camp. After breakfast we start again, and make two portages + during the forenoon. + </p> + <p> + The limestone of this canyon is often polished, and makes a beautiful + marble. Sometimes the rocks are of many colors--white, gray, pink, and + purple, with saffron tints. It is with very great labor that we make + progress, meeting with many obstructions, running rapids, letting down our + boats with lines from rock to rock, and sometimes carrying boats and + cargoes around bad places. We camp at night, just after a hard portage, + under an overhanging wall, glad to find shelter from the rain. We have to + search for some time to find a few sticks of driftwood, just sufficient to + boil a cup of coffee. + </p> + <p> + The water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river, and has cut its way under + the rock, excavating a vast half-circular chamber, which, if utilized for + a theater, would give sitting to 50,000 people. Objection might be raised + against it, however, for at high water the floor is covered with a raging + flood. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 9.--</i>And now the scenery is on a grand scale. The walls of + the canyon, 2,500 feet high, are of marble, of many beautiful colors, + often polished below by the waves, and sometimes far up the sides, where + showers have washed the sands over the cliffs. At one place I + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">238</span><a name="link238" id="link238"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + have a walk for more than a mile on a marble pavement, all polished and + fretted with strange devices and embossed in a thousand fantastic + patterns. Through a cleft in the wall the sun shines on this pavement and + it gleams in iridescent beauty. + </p> + <p> + I pass up into the cleft. It is very narrow, with a succession of pools + standing at higher levels as I go back. The water in these pools is clear + and cool, coming down from springs. Then I return to the pavement, which + is but a terrace or bench, over which the river runs at its flood, but + left bare at present. Along the pavement in many places are basins of + clear water, in strange contrast to the red mud of the river. At length I + come to the end of this marble terrace and take again to the boat. + </p> + <p> + Riding down a short distance, a beautiful view is presented. The river + turns sharply to the east and seems inclosed by a wall set with a million + brilliant gems. What can it mean? Every eye is engaged, every one wonders. + On coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead, + and the spray in the sunshine forms the gems which bedeck the wall. The + rocks below the fountain are covered with mosses and ferns and many + beautiful flowering plants. We name it Vasey's Paradise, in honor of the + botanist who traveled with us last year. + </p> + <p> + We pass many side canyons to-day that are dark, gloomy passages back into + the heart of the rocks that form the plateau through which this canyon is + cut. It rains again this afternoon. Scarcely do the first drops fall when + little rills run down the walls. As the storm comes on, the little rills + increase in size, until great streams are formed. Although the walls of + the canyon are chiefly limestone, the adjacent country is of red + sandstone; and now the waters, loaded with these sands, come down in + rivers of bright red mud, leaping over the walls in innumerable cascades. + It is plain now how these walls are polished in many places. + </p> + <p> + At last the storm ceases and we go on. We have cut through the sandstones + and limestones met in the upper part of the canyon, and through one great + bed of marble a thousand feet in thickness. In this, great numbers of + caves are hollowed out, and carvings are seen which suggest architectural + forms, though on a scale so grand that architec- + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">239</span><a name="link239" id="link239"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-154.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-154.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NOONDAY REST IN MARBLE CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">240</span><a name="link240" id="link240"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-155.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-155.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VIEW OF MARBLE CANYON FROM VERMILION CLIFFS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. <span class="pagenum">241</span><a + name="link241" id="link241"></a> + </p> + <p> + tural terms belittle them. As this great bed forms a distinctive feature + of the canyon, we call it Marble Canyon. + </p> + <p> + It is a peculiar feature of these walls that many projections are set out + into the river, as if the wall was buttressed for support. The walls + themselves are half a mile high, and these buttresses are on a + corresponding scale, jutting into the river scores of feet. In the + recesses between these projections there are quiet bays, except at the + foot of a rapid, when there are dancing eddies or whirlpools. Sometimes + these alcoves have caves at the back, giving them the appearance of great + depth. Then other caves are seen above, forming vast dome-shaped chambers. + The walls and buttresses and chambers are all of marble. + </p> + <p> + The river is now quiet; the canyon wider. Above, when the river is at its + flood, the waters gorge up, so that the difference between high and low + water mark is often 50 or even 70 feet, but here high-water mark is not + more than 20 feet above the present stage of the river. Sometimes there is + a narrow flood plain between the water and the wall. Here we first + discover mesquite shrubs,--small trees with finely divided leaves and + pods, somewhat like the locust. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 10.--</i>Walls still higher; water swift again. We pass several + broad, ragged canyons on our right, and up through these we catch glimpses + of a forest-clad plateau, miles away to the west. + </p> + <p> + At two o'clock we reach the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito. This stream + enters through a canyon on a scale quite as grand as that of the Colorado + itself. It is a very small river and exceedingly muddy and saline. I walk + up the stream three or four miles this afternoon, crossing and recrossing + where I can easily wade it. Then I climb several hundred feet at one + place, and can see for several miles up the chasm through which the river + runs. On my way back I kill two rattlesnakes, and find on my arrival that + another has been killed just at camp. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 11.--</i>We remain at this point to-day for the purpose of + determining the latitude and longitude, measuring the height of the walls, + drying our rations, and repairing our boats. + </p> + <p> + Captain Powell early in the morning takes a barometer and goes out to + climb a point between the two rivers. I walk down the gorge to the left at + the foot of the cliff, climb to a bench, and discover a trail, deeply worn + in the rock. Where it crosses the side gulches in some + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">242</span><a name="link242" id="link242"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + places steps have been cut. I can see no evidence of its having been + traveled for a long time. It was doubtless a path used by the people who + inhabited this country anterior to the present Indian races--the people + who built the communal houses of which mention has been made. + </p> + <p> + I return to camp about three o'clock and find that some of the men have + discovered ruins and many fragments of pottery; also etchings and + hieroglyphics on the rocks. + </p> + <p> + We find to-night, on comparing the readings of the barometers, that the + walls are about 3,000 feet high--more than half a mile--an altitude + difficult to appreciate from a mere statement of feet. The slope by which + the ascent is made is not such a slope as is usually found in climbing a + mountain, but one much more abrupt--often vertical for many hundreds of + feet,--so that the impression is given that we are at great depths, and we + look up to see but a little patch of sky. + </p> + <p> + Between the two streams, above the Colorado Chiquito, in some places the + rocks are broken and shelving for 600 Or 700 feet; then there is a sloping + terrace, which can be climbed only by finding some way up a gulch; then + another terrace, and back, still another cliff. The summit of the cliff is + 3,000 feet above the river, as our barometers attest. + </p> + <p> + Our camp is below the Colorado Chiquito and on the eastern side of the + canyon. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 12.--</i>The rocks above camp are rust-colored sandstones and + conglomerates. Some are very hard; others quite soft. They all lie nearly + horizontal, and the beds of softer material have been washed out, leaving + the harder forming a series of shelves. Long lines of these are seen, of + varying thickness, from one or two to twenty or thirty feet, and the + spaces between have the same variability. This morning I spend two or + three hours in climbing among these shelves, and then I pass above them + and go up a long slope to the foot of the cliff and try to discover some + way by which I can reach the top of the wall; but I find my progress cut + off by an amphitheater. Then I wander away around to the left, up a little + gulch and along benches, climbing from time to time, until I reach an + altitude of nearly 2,000 feet and can get no higher. From this point I can + look off to the west, up side canyons of the Colorado, and see the edge of + a great plateau, from which streams run down into the Colorado, and deep + gulches in the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">243</span><a name="link243" id="link243"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-156.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-156.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ADOBE WALLS, ZUÑI + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">244</span><a name="link243" id="link243_"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + escarpment which faces us, continued by canyons, ragged and flaring and + set with cliffs and towering crags, down to the river. I can see far up + Marble Canyon to long lines of chocolate-colored cliffs, and above these + the Vermilion Cliffs. I can see, also, up the Colorado Chiquito, through a + very ragged and broken canyon, with sharp salients set out from the walls + on either side, their points overlapping, so that a huge tooth of marble + on one side seems to be set between two teeth on the opposite; and I can + also get glimpses of walls standing away back from the river, while over + my head are mural escarpments not possible to be scaled. + </p> + <p> + Cataract Canyon is 41 miles long. The walls are 1,300 feet high at its + head, and they gradually increase in altitude to a point about halfway + down, where they are 2,700 feet, and then decrease to 1,300 feet at the + foot. Narrow Canyon is 9 1/2 miles long, with walls 1,300 feet in height + at the head and coming down to the water at the foot. + </p> + <p> + There is very little vegetation in this canyon or in the adjacent country. + Just at the junction of the Grand and Green there are a number of + hackberry trees; and along the entire length of Cataract Canyon the + high-water line is marked by scattered trees of the same species. A few + nut pines and cedars are found, and occasionally a redbud or Judas tree; + but the general aspect of the canyons and of the adjacent country is that + of naked rock. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">244</span><a name="link244" id="link244"></a> + </p> + <p> + The distance through Glen Canyon is 149 miles. Its walls vary in height + from 200 or 300 to 1,600 feet. Marble Canyon is 65 1/2 miles long. At its + head it is 200 feet deep, and it steadily increases in depth to its foot, + where its walls are 3,500 feet high. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">245</span><a name="link245" id="link245"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-157.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-157.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">246</span><a name="link246" id="link246"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-158.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-158.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AT THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">247</span><a name="link247" id="link247"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XI. + </p> + <p> + FROM THE LITTLE COLORADO TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + AUGUST 13.--We are now ready to start on our way down the Great Unknown. + Our boats, tied to a common, stake, chafe each other as they are tossed by + the fretful river. They ride high and buoyant, for their loads are lighter + than we could desire. We have but a month's rations remaining. The flour + has been resifted through the mosquito-net sieve; the spoiled bacon has + been dried and the worst of it boiled; the few pounds of dried apples have + been spread in the sun and reshrunken to their normal bulk. The sugar has + all melted and gone on its way down the river. But we have a large sack of + coffee. The lightening of the boats has this advantage: they will ride the + waves better and we shall have but little to carry when we make a portage. + </p> + <p> + We are three quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth, and the great + river shrinks into insignificance as it dashes its angry waves against the + walls and cliffs that rise to the world above; the waves are but puny + ripples, and we but pigmies, running up and down the sands or lost among + the boulders. + </p> + <p> + We have an unknown distance yet to run, an unknown river to explore. What + falls there are, we know not; what rocks beset the channel, we know not; + what walls rise over the river, we know not. Ah, well! we may conjecture + many things. The men talk as cheerfully as ever; jests are bandied about + freely this morning; but to me the cheer is somber and the jests are + ghastly. + </p> + <p> + With some eagerness and some anxiety and some misgiving we enter the + canyon below and are carried along by the swift water through walls which + rise from its very edge. They have the same structure that we noticed + yesterday--tiers of irregular shelves below, and, above these, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">248</span><a name="link248" id="link248"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + steep slopes to the foot of marble cliffs. We run six miles in a little + more than half an hour and emerge into a more open portion of the canyon, + where high hills and ledges of rock intervene between the river and the + distant walls. Just at the head of this open place the river runs across a + dike; that is, a fissure in the rocks, open to depths below, was filled + with eruptive matter, and this on cooling was harder than the rocks + through which the crevice was made, and when these were washed away the + harder volcanic matter remained as a wall, and the river has cut a gateway + through it several hundred feet high and as many wide. As it crosses the + wall, there is a fall below and a bad rapid, filled with boulders of trap; + so we stop to make a portage. Then on we go, gliding by hills and ledges, + with distant walls in view; sweeping past sharp angles of rock; stopping + at a few points to examine rapids, which we find can be run, until we have + made another five miles, when we land for dinner. + </p> + <p> + Then we let down with lines over a long rapid and start again. Once more + the walls close in, and we find ourselves in a narrow gorge, the water + again filling the channel and being very swift. With great care and + constant watchfulness we proceed, making about four miles this afternoon, + and camp in a cave. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 14-</i>--At daybreak we walk down the bank of the river, on a + little sandy beach, to take a view of a new feature in the canyon. + Heretofore hard rocks have given us bad river; soft rocks, smooth water; + and a series of rocks harder than any we have experienced sets in. The + river enters the gneiss! We can see but a little way into the granite + gorge, but it looks threatening. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast we enter on the waves. At the very introduction it + inspires awe. The canyon is narrower than we have ever before seen it; the + water is swifter; there are but few broken rocks in the channel; but the + walls are set, on either side, with pinnacles and crags; and sharp, + angular buttresses, bristling with wind- and wave-polished spires, extend + far out into the river. + </p> + <p> + Ledges of rock jut into the stream, their tops sometimes just below the + surface, sometimes rising a few or many feet above; and island ledges and + island pinnacles and island towers break the swift course of the stream + into chutes and eddies and whirlpools. We soon reach a place + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">249</span><a name="link249" id="link249"></a> + </p> + <p> + where a creek comes in from the left, and, just below, the channel is + choked with boulders, which have washed down this lateral canyon and + formed a dam, over which there is a fall of 30 or 40 feet; but on the + boulders foothold can be had, and we make a portage. Three more such dams + are found. Over one we make a portage; at the other two are chutes through + which we can run. + </p> + <p> + As we proceed the granite rises higher, until nearly a thousand feet of + the lower part of the walls are composed of this rock. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-159.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-159.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WALLS OF GNEISS. + </p> + <p> + About eleven o'clock we hear a great roar ahead, and approach it very + cautiously. The sound grows louder and louder as we run, and at last we + find ourselves above a long, broken fall, with ledges and pinnacles of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">250</span><a name="link250" id="link250"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + rock obstructing the river. There is a descent of perhaps 75 or 80 feet in + a third of a mile, and the rushing waters break into great waves + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-160.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-160.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RUNNING A RAPID. + </p> + <p> + on the rocks, and lash themselves into a mad, white foam. We can land just + above, but there is no foothold on either side by which we can make a + portage. It is nearly a thousand feet to the top of the granite; + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">251</span><a + name="link251" id="link251"></a> + </p> + <p> + so it will be impossible to carry our boats around, though we can climb to + the summit up a side gulch and, passing along a mile or two, descend to + the river. This we find on examination; but such a portage would be + impracticable for us, and we must run the rapid or abandon the river. + There is no hesitation. We step into our boats, push off, and away we go, + first on smooth but swift water, then we strike a glassy wave and ride to + its top, down again into the trough, up again on a higher wave, and down + and up on waves higher and still higher until we strike one just as it + curls back, and a breaker rolls over our little boat. Still on we speed, + shooting past projecting rocks, till the little boat is caught in a + whirlpool and spun round several times. At last we pull out again into the + stream. And now the other boats have passed us. The open compartment of + the "Emma Dean" is filled with water and every breaker rolls over us. + Hurled back from a rock, now on this side, now on that, we are carried + into an eddy, in which we struggle for a few minutes, and are then out + again, the breakers still rolling over us. Our boat is unmanageable, but + she cannot sink, and we drift down another hundred yards through + breakers--how, we scarcely know. We find the other boats have turned into + an eddy at the foot of the fall and are waiting to catch us as we come, + for the men have seen that our boat is swamped. They push out as we come + near and pull us in against the wall. Our boat bailed, on we go again. + </p> + <p> + The walls now are more than a mile in height--a vertical distance + difficult to appreciate. Stand on the south steps of the Treasury building + in Washington and look down Pennsylvania Avenue to the Capitol; measure + this distance overhead, and imagine cliffs to extend to that altitude, and + you will understand what is meant; or stand at Canal Street in New York + and look up Broadway to Grace Church, and you have about the distance; or + stand at Lake Street bridge in Chicago and look down to the Central Depot, + and you have it again. + </p> + <p> + A thousand feet of this is up through granite crags; then steep slopes and + perpendicular cliffs rise one above another to the summit. The gorge is + black and narrow below, red and gray and flaring above, with crags and + angular projections on the walls, which, cut in many places by side + canyons, seem to be a vast wilderness of rocks. Down in these grand, + gloomy depths we glide, ever listening, for the mad waters keep + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">252</span><a name="link252" id="link252"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-161.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-161.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">253</span><a + name="link253" id="link253"></a> + </p> + <p> + up their roar; ever watching, ever peering ahead, for the narrow canyon is + winding and the river is closed in so that we can see but a few hundred + yards, and what there may be below we know not; so we listen for falls and + watch for rocks, stopping now and then in the bay of a recess to admire + the gigantic scenery; and ever as we go there is some new pinnacle or + tower, some crag or peak, some distant view of the upper plateau, some + strangely shaped rock, or some deep, narrow side canyon. + </p> + <p> + Then we come to another broken fall, which appears more difficult than the + one we ran this morning. A small creek comes in on the right, and the + first fall of the water is over boulders, which have been carried down by + this lateral stream. We land at its mouth and stop for an hour or two to + examine the fall. It seems possible to let down with lines, at least a + part of the way, from point to point, along the right-hand wall. So we + make a portage over the first rocks and find footing on some boulders + below. Then we let down one of the boats to the end of her line, when she + reaches a corner of the projecting rock, to which one of the men clings + and steadies her while I examine an eddy below. I think we can pass the + other boats down by us and catch them in the eddy. This is soon done, and + the men in the boats in the eddy pull us to their side. On the shore of + this little eddy there is about two feet of gravel beach above the water. + Standing on this beach, some of the men take the line of the little boat + and let it drift down against another projecting angle. Here is a little + shelf, on which a man from my boat climbs, and a shorter line is passed to + him, and he fastens the boat to the side of the cliff; then the second one + is let down, bringing the line of the third. When the second boat is tied + up, the two men standing on the beach above spring into the last boat, + which is pulled up alongside of ours; then we let down the boats for 25 or + 30 yards by walking along the shelf, landing them again in the mouth of a + side canyon. Just below this there is another pile of boulders, over which + we make another portage. From the foot of these rocks we can climb to + another shelf, 40 or 50 feet above the water. + </p> + <p> + On this bench we camp for the night. It is raining hard, and we have no + shelter, but find a few sticks which have lodged in the rocks, and kindle + a fire and have supper. We sit on the rocks all night, wrapped in our <i>ponchos,</i> + getting what sleep we can. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">254</span><a name="link254" id="link254"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-162.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-162.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE INNER GORGE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">255</span><a name="link255" id="link255"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 15.--</i>This morning we find we can let down for 300 or 400 + yards, and it is managed in this way: we pass along the wall by climbing + from projecting point to point, sometimes near the water's edge, at other + places 50 or 60 feet above, and hold the boat with a line while two men + remain aboard and prevent her from being dashed against the rocks and keep + the line from getting caught on the wall. In two hours we have brought + them all down, as far as it is possible, in this way. A few yards below, + the river strikes with great violence against a projecting rock and our + boats are pulled up in a little bay above. We must now manage to pull out + of this and clear the point below. The little boat is held by the bow + obliquely up the stream. We jump in and pull out only a few strokes, and + sweep clear of the dangerous rock. The other boats follow in the same + manner and the rapid is passed. + </p> + <p> + It is not easy to describe the labor of such navigation. We must prevent + the waves from dashing the boats against the cliffs. Sometimes, where the + river is swift, we must put a bight of rope about a rock, to prevent the + boat from being snatched from us by a wave; but where the plunge is too + great or the chute too swift, we must let her leap and catch her below or + the undertow will drag her under the falling water and sink her. Where we + wish to run her out a little way from shore through a channel between + rocks, we first throw in little sticks of driftwood and watch their + course, to see where we must steer so that she will pass the channel in + safety. And so we hold, and let go, and pull, and lift, and ward--among + rocks, around rocks, and over rocks. + </p> + <p> + And now we go on through this solemn, mysterious way. The river is very + deep, the canyon very narrow, and still obstructed, so that there is no + steady flow of the stream; but the waters reel and roll and boil, and we + are scarcely able to determine where we can go. Now the boat is carried to + the right, perhaps close to the wall; again, she is shot into the stream, + and perhaps is dragged over to the other side, where, caught in a + whirlpool, she spins about. We can neither land nor run as we please. The + boats are entirely unmanageable; no order in their running can be + preserved; now one, now another, is ahead, each crew laboring for its own + preservation. In such a place we come to another rapid. Two of the boats + run it perforce. One succeeds in landing, but there is no foothold by + which to make a portage and she is pushed out again into + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">256</span><a name="link255" id="link255_"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the stream. The next minute a great reflex wave fills the open + compartment; she is water-logged, and drifts unmanageable. Breaker after + breaker rolls over her and one capsizes her. The men are thrown out; but + they cling to the boat, and she drifts down some distance alongside of us + and we are able to catch her. She is soon bailed out and the men are + aboard once more; but the oars are lost, and so a pair from the "Emma + Dean" is spared. Then for two miles we find smooth water. + </p> + <p> + Clouds are playing in the canyon to-day. Sometimes they roll down in great + masses, filling the gorge with gloom; sometimes they hang aloft from wall + to wall and cover the canyon with a roof of impending storm, and we can + peer long distances up and down this canyon corridor, with its cloud-roof + overhead, its walls of black granite, and its river bright with the sheen + of broken waters. Then a gust of wind sweeps down a side gulch and, making + a rift in the clouds, reveals the blue heavens, and a stream of sunlight + pours in. Then the clouds drift away into the distance, and hang around + crags and peaks and pinnacles and towers and walls, and cover them with a + mantle that lifts from time to time and sets them all in sharp relief. + Then baby clouds creep out of side canyons, glide around points, and creep + back again into more distant gorges. Then clouds arrange in strata across + the canyon, with intervening vista views to cliffs and rocks beyond. The + clouds are children of the heavens, and when they play among the rocks + they lift them to the region above. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">256</span><a name="link256" id="link256"></a> + </p> + <p> + It rains! Rapidly little rills are formed above, and these soon grow into + brooks, and the brooks grow into creeks and tumble over the walls in + innumerable cascades, adding their wild music to the roar of the river. + When the rain ceases the rills, brooks, and creeks run dry. The waters + that fall during a rain on these steep rocks are gathered at once into the + river; they could scarcely be poured in more suddenly if some vast spout + ran from the clouds to the stream itself. When a storm bursts over the + canyon a side gulch is dangerous, for a sudden flood may come, and the + inpouring waters will raise the river so as to hide the rocks. + </p> + <p> + Early in the afternoon we discover a stream entering from the north--a + clear, beautiful creek, coming down through a gorgeous red canyon. We land + and camp on a sand beach above its mouth, under a great, overspreading + tree with willow-shaped leaves. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">257</span><a name="link257" id="link257"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-163.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-163.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SIGNAL OF DISCOVERY OR ALARM. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">258</span><a name="link258" id="link258"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-164.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-164.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SIGNAL, "WHO ARE YOU?" ANSWER, "PANI." + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">259</span><a + name="link259" id="link259"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>August 16.--</i>We must dry our rations again to-day and make oars. + </p> + <p> + The Colorado is never a clear stream, but for the past three or four days + it has been raining much of the time, and the floods poured over the walls + have brought down great quantities of mud, making it exceedingly turbid + now. The little affluent which we have discovered here is a clear, + beautiful creek, or river, as it would be termed in this western country, + where streams are not abundant. We have named one stream, away above, in + honor of the great chief of the "Bad Angels," and as this is in beautiful + contrast to that, we conclude to name it "Bright Angel." + </p> + <p> + Early in the morning the whole party starts <i>up</i> to explore the + Bright Angel River, with the special purpose of seeking timber from which + to make oars. A couple of miles above we find a large pine log, which has + been floated down from the plateau, probably from an altitude of more than + 6,000 feet, but not many miles back. On its way it must have passed over + many cataracts and falls, for it bears scars in evidence of the rough + usage which it has received. The men roll it on skids, and the work of + sawing oars is commenced. + </p> + <p> + This stream heads away back under a line of abrupt cliffs that terminates + the plateau, and tumbles down more than 4,000 feet in the first mile or + two of its course; then runs through a deep, narrow canyon until it + reaches the river. + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon I return and go up a little gulch just above this + creek, about 200 yards from camp, and discover the ruins of two or three + old houses, which were originally of stone laid in mortar. Only the + foundations are left, but irregular blocks, of which the houses were + constructed, lie scattered about. In one room I find an old mealing-stone, + deeply worn, as if it had been much used. A great deal of pottery is + strewn around, and old trails, which in some places are deeply worn into + the rocks, are seen. + </p> + <p> + It is ever a source of wonder to us why these ancient people sought such + inaccessible places for their homes. They were, doubtless, an agricultural + race, but there are no lands here of any considerable extent that they + could have cultivated. To the west of Oraibi, one of the towns in the + Province of Tusayan, in northern Arizona, the inhabitants have actually + built little terraces along the face of the cliff where a + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">260</span><a name="link260" id="link260"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + spring gushes out, and thus made their sites for gardens. It is possible + that the ancient inhabitants of this place made their agricultural lands + in the same way. But why should they seek such spots'? Surely the country + was not so crowded with people as to demand the utilization of so barren a + region. The only solution suggested of the problem is this: We know that + for a century or two after the settlement of Mexico many expeditious were + sent into the country now comprising Arizona and New Mexico, for the + purpose of bringing the town-building people under the dominion of the + Spanish government. Many of their villages were destroyed, and the + inhabitants fled to regions at that time unknown; and there are traditions + among the people who inhabit the pueblos that still remain that the + canyons were these unknown lauds. It may be these buildings were erected + at that time; sure it is that they have a much more modern appearance than + the ruins scattered over Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico. + Those old Spanish conquerors had a monstrous greed for gold and a + wonderful lust for saving souls. Treasures they must have, if not on + earth, why, then, in heaven; and when they failed to find heathen temples + bedecked with silver, they propitiated Heaven by seizing the heathen + themselves. There is yet extant a copy of a record made by a heathen + artist to express his conception of the demands of the conquerors. In one + part of the picture we have a lake, and near by stands a priest pouring + water on the head of a native. On the other side, a poor Indian has a cord + about his throat. Lines run from these two groups to a central figure, a + man with beard and full Spanish panoply. The interpretation of the + picture-writing is this: "Be baptized as this saved heathen, or be hanged + as that damned heathen." Doubtless, some of these people preferred another + alternative, and rather than be baptized or hanged they chose to imprison + themselves within these canyon walls. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 17.--</i>Our rations are still spoiling; the bacon is so badly + injured that we are compelled to throw it away. By an accident, this + morning, the saleratus was lost overboard. We have now only musty flour + sufficient for ten days and a few dried apples, but plenty of coffee. We + must make all haste possible. If we meet with difficulties such as we have + encountered in the canyon above, we may be compelled to give up the + expedition and try to reach the Mormon settlements to the north. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">261</span><a name="link261" id="link261"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-165.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-165.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SIGNAL OF SUCCESSFUL WAR PARTY. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">262</span><a name="link262" id="link262"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-166.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-166.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A SIGNAL OF PEACE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">263</span><a + name="link263" id="link263"></a> + </p> + <p> + Our hopes are that the worst places are passed, but our barometers are all + so much injured as to be useless, and so we have lost our reckoning in + altitude, and know not how much descent the river has yet to make. The + stream is still wild and rapid and rolls through a narrow channel. We make + but slow progress, often landing against a wall and climbing around some + point to see the river below. Although very anxious to advance, we are + determined to run with great caution, lest by another accident we lose our + remaining supplies. How precious that little flour has become! We divide + it among the boats and carefully store it away, so that it can be lost + only by the loss of the boat itself. + </p> + <p> + We make ten miles and a half, and camp among the rocks on the right. We + have had rain from time to time all day, and have been thoroughly drenched + and chilled; but between showers the sun shines with great power and the + mercury in our thermometers stands at 115 degrees, so that we have rapid + changes from great extremes, which are very disagreeable. It is especially + cold in the rain to-night. The little canvas we have is rotten and + useless; the rubber <i>ponchos</i> with which we started from Green River + City have all been lost; more than half the party are without hats, not + one of us has an entire suit of clothes, and we have not a blanket apiece. + So we gather driftwood and build a fire; but after supper the rain, coming + down in torrents, extinguishes it, and we sit up all night on the rocks, + shivering, and are more exhausted by the night's discomfort than by the + day's toil. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 18.</i>--The day is employed in making portages and we advance + but two miles on our journey. Still it rains. + </p> + <p> + While the men are at work making portages I climb up the granite to its + summit and go away back over the rust-colored sandstones and + greenish-yellow shales to the foot of the marble wall. I climb so high + that the men and boats are lost in the black depths below and the dashing + river is a rippling brook, and still there is more canyon above than + below. All about me are interesting geologic records. The book is open and + I can read as I run. All about me are grand views, too, for the clouds are + playing again in the gorges. But somehow I think of the nine days' rations + and the bad river, and the lesson of the rocks and the glory of the scene + are but half conceived. I push on to an angle, where I hope to get a view + of the country + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">264</span><a name="link264" id="link264"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + beyond, to see if possible what the prospect may be of our soon running + through this plateau, or at least of meeting with some geologic change + that will let us out of the granite; but, arriving at the point, I can see + below only a labyrinth of black gorges. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 19.--</i>Rain again this morning. We are in our granite prison + still, and the time until noon is occupied in making a long; bad portage. + </p> + <p> + After dinner, in running a rapid the pioneer boat is upset by a wave. We + are some distance in advance of the larger boats. The river is rough and + swift and we are unable to land, but cling to the boat and are carried + down stream over another rapid. The men in the boats above see our + trouble, but they are caught in whirlpools and are spinning about in + eddies, and it seems a long time before they come to our relief. At last + they do come; our boat is turned right side up and bailed out; the oars, + which fortunately have floated along in company with us, are gathered up, + and on we go, without even landing. The clouds break away and we have + sunshine again. + </p> + <p> + Soon we find a little beach with just room enough to land. Here we camp, + but there is no wood. Across the river and a little way above, we see some + driftwood lodged in the rocks. So we bring two boat loads over, build a + huge fire, and spread everything to dry. It is the first cheerful night we + have had for a week--a warm, drying fire in the midst of the camp, and a + few bright stars in our patch of heavens overhead. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 20.--</i>The characteristics of the canyon change this morning. + The river is broader, the walls more sloping, and composed of black slates + that stand on edge. These nearly vertical slates are washed out in + places--that is, the softer beds are washed out between the harder, which + are left standing. In this way curious little alcoves are formed, in which + are quiet bays of water, but on a much smaller scale than the great bays + and buttresses of Marble Canyon. + </p> + <p> + The river is still rapid and we stop to let down with lines several times, + but make greater progress, as we run ten miles. We camp on the right bank. + Here, on a terrace of trap, we discover another group of ruins. There was + evidently quite a village on this rock. Again we find mealing-stones and + much broken pottery, and up on a little natural shelf in the rock back of + the ruins we find a globular basket that would hold + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">265</span><a name="link265" id="link265"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-167.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-167.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOKI METHOD OF DRESSING THE HAIR. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">266</span><a name="link266" id="link266"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-168.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-168.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOKI METHOD OF SPINNING. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">267</span><a + name="link267" id="link267"></a> + </p> + <p> + perhaps a third of a bushel. It is badly broken, and as I attempt to take + it up it falls to pieces. There are many beautiful flint chips, also, as + if this had been the home of an old arrow-maker. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 21.--</i>We start early this morning, cheered by the prospect of + a fine day and encouraged also by the good run made yesterday. A quarter + of a mile below camp the river turns abruptly to the left, and between + camp and that point is very swift, running down in a long, broken chute + and piling up against the foot of the cliff, where it turns to the left. + We try to pull across, so as to go down on the other side, but the waters + are swift and it seems impossible for us to escape the rock below; but, in + pulling across, the bow of the boat is turned to the farther shore, so + that we are swept broadside down and are prevented by the rebounding + waters from striking against the wall. We toss about for a few seconds in + these billows and are then carried past the danger. Below, the river turns + again to the right, the canyon is very narrow, and we see in advance but a + short distance. The water, too, is very swift, and there is no + landing-place. From around this curve there comes a mad roar, and down we + are carried with a dizzying velocity to the head of another rapid. On + either side high over our heads there are overhanging granite walls, and + the sharp bends cut off our view, so that a few minutes will carry us into + unknown waters. Away we go on one long, winding chute. I stand on deck, + supporting myself with a strap fastened on either side of the gunwale. The + boat glides rapidly where the water is smooth, then, striking a wave, she + leaps and bounds like a thing of life, and we have a wild, exhilarating + ride for ten miles, which we make in less than an hour. The excitement is + so great that we forget the danger until we hear the roar of a great fall + below; then we back on our oars and are carried slowly toward its head and + succeed in landing just above and find that we have to make another + portage. At this we are engaged until some time after dinner. + </p> + <p> + Just here we run out of the granite. Ten miles in less than half a day, + and limestone walls below. Good cheer returns; we forget the storms and + the gloom and the cloud-covered canyons and the black granite and the + raging river, and push our boats from shore in great glee. + </p> + <p> + Though we are out of the granite, the river is still swift, and we wheel + about a point again to the right, and turn, so as to head back in the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">268</span><a name="link268" id="link268"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO, + </p> + <p> + direction from which we came; this brings the granite in sight again, with + its narrow gorge and black crags; but we meet with no more great falls or + rapids. Still, we run cautiously and stop from time to time to examine + some places which look bad. Yet we make ten miles this afternoon; twenty + miles in all to-day. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 22.--</i>We come to rapids again this morning and are occupied + several hours in passing them, letting the boats down from rock to rock + with lines for nearly half a mile, and then have to make a long portage. + While the men are engaged in this I climb the wall on the northeast to a + height of about 2,500 feet, where I can obtain a good view of a long + stretch of canyon below. Its course is to the southwest. The walls seem to + rise very abruptly for 2,500 or 3,000 feet, and then there is a gently + sloping terrace on each side for two or three miles, when we again find + cliffs, 1,500 or 2,000 feet high. From the brink of these the plateau + stretches back to the north and south for a long distance. Away down the + canyon on the right wall I can see a group of mountains, some of which + appear to stand on the brink of the canyon. The effect of the terrace is + to give the appearance of a narrow winding valley with high walls on + either side and a deep, dark, meandering gorge down its middle. It is + impossible from this point of view to determine whether or not we have + granite at the bottom; but from geologic considerations, I conclude that + we shall have marble walls below. + </p> + <p> + After my return to the boats we run another mile and camp for the night. + We have made but little over seven miles to-day, and a part of our flour + has been soaked in the river again. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 23.--</i>Our way to-day is again through marble walls. Now and + then we pass for a short distance through patches of granite, like hills + thrust up into the limestone. At one of these places we have to make + another portage, and, taking advantage of the delay, I go up a little + stream to the north, wading it all the way, sometimes having to plunge in + to my neck, in other places being compelled to swim across little basins + that have been excavated at the foot of the falls. Along its course are + many cascades and springs, gushing out from the rocks on either side. + Sometimes a cottonwood tree grows over the water. I come to one beautiful + fall, of more than 150 feet, and climb around it to the right on the + broken rocks. Still going up, the canyon is found to narrow very + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">269</span><a name="link269" id="link269"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-169.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-169.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ALCOVE IN THE RED WALL. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">270</span><a name="link270" id="link270"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-170.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-170.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + KANAB CANYON, NEAR THE JUNCTION. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">271</span><a + name="link271" id="link271"></a> + </p> + <p> + much, being but 15 or 20 feet wide; yet the walls rise on either side many + hundreds of feet, perhaps thousands; I can hardly tell. + </p> + <p> + In some places the stream has not excavated its channel down vertically + through the rocks, but has cut obliquely, so that one wall overhangs the + other. In other places it is cut vertically above and obliquely below, or + obliquely above and vertically below, so that it is impossible to see out + overhead. But I can go no farther; the time which I estimated it would + take to make the portage has almost expired, and I start back on a round + trot, wading in the creek where I must and plunging through basins. The + men are waiting for me, and away we go on the river. + </p> + <p> + Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right, which leaps into' the + Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet, forming a beautiful + cascade. There is a bed of very hard rock above, 30 or 40 feet in + thickness, and there are much softer beds below. The hard beds above + project many yards beyond the softer, which are washed out, forming a deep + cave behind the fall, and the stream pours through a narrow crevice above + into a deep pool below. Around on the rocks in the cavelike chamber are + set beautiful ferns, with delicate fronds and enameled stalks. The + frondlets have their points turned down to form spore cases. It has very + much the appearance of the maidenhair fern, but is much larger. This + delicate foliage covers the rocks all about the fountain, and gives the + chamber great beauty. But we have little time to spend in admiration; so + on we go. + </p> + <p> + We make fine progress this afternoon, carried along by a swift river, + shooting over the rapids and finding no serious obstructions. The canyon + walls for 2,500 or 3,000 feet are very regular, rising almost + perpendicularly, but here and there set with narrow steps, and + occasionally we can see away above the broad terrace to distant cliffs. + </p> + <p> + We camp to-night in a marble cave, and find on looking at our reckoning + that we have run 22 miles. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 24.--</i>The canyon is wider to-day. The walls rise to a + vertical height of nearly 3,000 feet. In many places the river runs under + a cliff in great curves, forming amphitheaters half-dome shaped. + </p> + <p> + Though the river is rapid, we meet with no serious obstructions and run 20 + miles. How anxious we are to make up our reckoning every time we stop, now + that our diet is confined to plenty of coffee, a very + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">272</span><a name="link272" id="link272"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + little spoiled flour, and very few dried apples! It has come to be a race + for a dinner. Still, we make such fine progress that all hands are in good + cheer, but not a moment of daylight is lost. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 25.--</i>We make 12 miles this morning, when we come to + monuments of lava standing in the river,--low rocks mostly, but some of + them shafts more than a hundred feet high. Going on down three or four + miles, we find them increasing in number. Great quantities of cooled lava + and many cinder cones are seen on either side; and then we come to an + abrupt cataract. Just over the fall on the right wall a cinder cone, or + extinct volcano, with a well-defined crater, stands on the very brink of + the canyon. This, doubtless, is the one we saw two or three days ago. From + this volcano vast floods of lava have been poured down into the river, and + a stream of molten rock has run up the canyon three or four miles and down + we know not how far. Just where it poured over the canyon wall is the + fall. The whole north side as far as we can see is lined with the black + basalt, and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material, + resting on the benches and filling old alcoves and caves, giving the wall + a spotted appearance. + </p> + <p> + The rocks are broken in two along a line which here crosses the river, and + the beds we have seen while coming down the canyon for the last 30 miles + have dropped 800 feet on the lower side of the line, forming what + geologists call a "fault." The volcanic cone stands directly over the + fissure thus formed. On the left side of the river, opposite, mammoth + springs burst out of this crevice, 100 or 200 feet above the river, + pouring in a stream quite equal in volume to the Colorado Chiquito. + </p> + <p> + This stream seems to be loaded with carbonate of lime, and the water, + evaporating, leaves an incrustation on the rocks; and this process has + been continued for a long time, for extensive deposits are noticed in + which are basins with bubbling springs. The water is salty. + </p> + <p> + We have to make a portage here, which is completed in about three hours; + then on we go. + </p> + <p> + We have no difficulty as we float along, and I am able to observe the + wonderful phenomena connected with this flood of lava. The canyon was + doubtless filled to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet, perhaps by more than + one flood. This would dam the water back; and in cutting through this + great lava bed, a new channel has been formed, sometimes on one + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">273</span><a name="link273" id="link273"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-171.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-171.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + KANAB CANYON, IN THE RED WALL LIMESTONE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">274</span><a name="link274" id="link274"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + side, sometimes on the other. The cooled lava, being of firmer texture + than the rocks of which the walls are composed, remains in some places; in + others a narrow channel has been cut, leaving a line of basalt on either + side. It is possible that the lava cooled faster on the sides against the + walls and that the center ran out; but of this we can only conjecture. + There are other places where almost the whole of the lava is gone, only + patches of it being seen, where it has caught on the walls. As we float + down we can see that it ran out into side canyons. In some places this + basalt has a fine, columnar structure, often in concentric prisms, and + masses of these concentric columns have coalesced. In some places, when + the flow occurred the canyon was probably about the same depth that it is + now, for we can see where the basalt has rolled out on the sands, + and--what seems curious to me--the sands are not melted or metamorphosed + to any appreciable extent. In places the bed of the river is of sandstone + or limestone, in other places of lava, showing that it has all been cut + out again where the sandstones and limestones appear; but there is a + little yet left where the bed is of lava. + </p> + <p> + What a conflict of water and fire there must have been here! Just imagine + a river of molten rock running down into a river of melted snow. What a + seething and boiling of the waters; what clouds of steam rolled into the + heavens! + </p> + <p> + Thirty-five miles to-day. Hurrah! + </p> + <p> + <i>August 26.--</i>The canyon walls are steadily becoming higher as we + advance. They are still bold and nearly vertical up to the terrace. We + still see evidence of the eruption discovered yesterday, but the thickness + of the basalt is decreasing as we go down stream; yet it has been + reinforced at points by streams that have come down from volcanoes + standing on the terrace above, but which we cannot see from the river + below. + </p> + <p> + Since we left the Colorado Chiquito we have seen no evidences that the + tribe of Indians inhabiting the plateaus on either side ever come down to + the river; but about eleven o'clock to-day we discover an Indian garden at + the foot of the wall on the right, just where a little stream with a + narrow flood plain comes down through a side canyon. Along the valley the + Indians have planted corn, using for irrigation the water which bursts out + in springs at the foot of the cliff. The corn is looking quite + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">275</span><a name="link275" id="link275"></a> + </p> + <p> + well, but it is not sufficiently advanced to give us roasting ears; but + there are some nice green squashes. We carry ten or a dozen of these on + board our boats and hurriedly leave, not willing to be caught in the + robbery, yet excusing ourselves by pleading our great want. We run down a + short distance to where we feel certain no Indian can follow, and what a + kettle of squash sauce we make! True, we have no salt with which to season + it, but it makes a fine addition to our unleavened bread and coffee. Never + was fruit so sweet as these stolen squashes. + </p> + <p> + After dinner we push on again and make fine time, finding many rapids, but + none so bad that we cannot run them with safety; and when we stop, just at + dusk, and foot up our reckoning, we find we have run 35 miles again. A few + days like this, and we are out of prison. + </p> + <p> + We have a royal supper--unleavened bread, green squash sauce, and strong + coffee. We have been for a few days on half rations, but now have no stint + of roast squash. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-172.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-172.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE BRINK OF THE INNER GORGE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">276</span><a name="link276" id="link276"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-173.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-173.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO, SHOWING AMPHITHEATER AND SCULPTURED + BUTTES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">277</span><a + name="link277" id="link277"></a> + </p> + <p> + <i>August 27.</i>--This morning the river takes a more southerly + direction. The dip of the rocks is to the north and we are running rapidly + into lower formations. Unless our course changes we shall very soon run + again into the granite. This gives some anxiety. Now and then the river + turns to the west and excites hopes that are soon destroyed by another + turn to the south. About nine o'clock we come to the dreaded rock. It is + with no little misgiving that we see the river enter these black, hard + walls. At its very entrance we have to make a portage; then let down with + lines past some ugly rocks. We run a mile or two farther, and then the + rapids below can be seen. + </p> + <p> + About eleven o'clock we come to a place in the river which seems much + worse than any we have yet met in all its course. A little creek comes + down from the left. We land first on the right and clamber up over the + granite pinnacles for a mile or two, but can see no way by which to let + down, and to run it would be sure destruction. After dinner we cross to + examine on the left. High above the river we can walk along on the top of + the granite, which is broken off at the edge and set with crags and + pinnacles, so that it is very difficult to get a view of the river at all. + In my eagerness to reach a point where I can see the roaring fall below, I + go too far on the wall, and can neither advance nor retreat. I stand with + one foot on a little projecting rock and cling with my hand fixed in a + little crevice. Finding I am caught here, suspended 400 feet above the + river, into which I must fall if my footing fails, I call for help. The + men come and pass me a line, but I cannot let go of the rock long enough + to take hold of it. Then they bring two or three of the largest oars. All + this takes time which seems very precious to me; but at last they arrive. + The blade of one of the oars is pushed into a little crevice in the rock + beyond me in such a manner that they can hold me pressed against the wall. + Then another is fixed in such a way that I can step on it; and thus I am + extricated. + </p> + <p> + Still another hour is spent in examining the river from this side, but no + good view of it is obtained; so now we return to the side that was first + examined, and the afternoon is spent in clambering among the crags and + pinnacles and carefully scanning the river again. We find that the lateral + streams have washed boulders into the river, so as to form a dam, over + which the water makes a broken fall of 18 or 20 feet; then there is + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">278</span><a name="link28" id="link279"></a> CANYONS + OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + a rapid, beset with rocks, for 200 or 300 yards, while on the other side, + points of the wall project into the river. Below, there is a second fall; + how great, we cannot tell. Then there is a rapid, filled with huge rocks, + for 100 or 200 yards. At the bottom of it, from the right wall, a great + rock projects quite halfway across the river. It has a sloping surface + extending up stream, and the water, coming down with all the momentum + gained in the falls and rapids above, rolls up this inclined plane many + feet, and tumbles over to the left. I decide that it is possible to let + down over the first fall, then run near the right cliff to a point just + above the second, where we can pull out into a little chute, and, having + run over that in safety, if we pull with all our power across the stream, + we may avoid the great rock below. On my return to the boat I announce to + the men that we are to run it in the morning. Then we cross the river and + go into camp for the night on some rocks in the mouth of the little side + canyon. + </p> + <p> + After supper Captain Howland asks to have a talk with me. We walk up the + little creek a short distance, and I soon find that his object is to + remonstrate against my determination to proceed. He thinks that we had + better abandon the river here. Talking with him, I learn that he, his + brother, and William Dunn have determined to go no farther in the boats. + So we return to camp. Nothing is said to the other men. + </p> + <p> + For the last two days our course has not been plotted. I sit down and do + this now, for the purpose of finding where we are by dead reckoning. It is + a clear night, and I take out the sextant to make observation for + latitude, and I find that the astronomic determination agrees very nearly + with that of the plot--quite as closely as might be expected from a + meridian observation on a planet. In a direct line, we must be about 45 + miles from the mouth of the Rio Virgen. If we can reach that point, we + know that there are settlements up that river about 20 miles. This 45 + miles in a direct line will probably be 80 or 90 by the meandering line of + the river. But then we know that there is comparatively open country for + many miles above the mouth of the Virgen, which is our point of + destination. + </p> + <p> + As soon as I determine all this, I spread my plot on the sand and wake + Howland, who is sleeping down by the river, and show him where I suppose + we are, and where several Mormon settlements are situated. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">279</span><a name="link279" id="link279_"></a> + </p> + <p> + We have another short talk about the morrow, and he lies down again; but + for me there is no sleep. All night long I pace up and down a little path, + on a few yards of sand beach, along by the river. Is it wise to go on? I + go to the boats again to look at our rations. I feel satisfied that we can + get over the danger immediately before us; what there may be below I know + not. From our outlook yesterday on the cliffs, the canyon seemed to make + another great bend to the south, and this, from our experience heretofore, + means more and higher granite walls. I am not sure that we can climb out + of the canyon here, and, if at the top of the wall, I know enough of the + country to be certain that it is a desert of rock and sand between this + and the nearest Mormon town, which, on the most direct line, must be 75 + miles away. True, the late rains have been favorable to us, should we go + out, for the probabilities are that we shall find water still standing in + holes; and at one time I almost conclude to leave the river. But for years + I have + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-174.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-174.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CLIMBING THE GRAND CANYON WALL. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">280</span><a name="link280" id="link280"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + been contemplating this trip. To leave the exploration unfinished, to say + that there is a part of the canyon which I cannot explore, having already + nearly accomplished it, is more than I am willing to acknowledge, and I + determine to go on. + </p> + <p> + I wake my brother and tell him of Howland's determination, and he promises + to stay with me; then I call up Hawkins, the cook, and he makes a like + promise; then Sumner and Bradley and Hall, and they all agree to go on. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 28.</i>--At last daylight comes and we have breakfast without a + word being said about the future. The meal is as solemn as a funeral. + After breakfast I ask the three men if they still think it best to leave + us. The elder Howland thinks it is, and Dunn agrees with him. The younger + Howland tries to persuade them to go on with the party; failing in which, + he decides to go with his brother. + </p> + <p> + Then we cross the river. The small boat is very much disabled and + unseaworthy. With the loss of hands, consequent on the departure of the + three men, we shall not be able to run all of the boats; so I decide to + leave my "Emma Dean." + </p> + <p> + Two rifles and a shotgun are given to the men who are going out. I ask + them to help themselves to the rations and take what they think to be a + fair share. This they refuse to do, saying they have no fear but that they + can get something to eat; but Billy, the cook, has a pan of biscuits + prepared for dinner, and these he leaves on a rock. + </p> + <p> + Before starting, we take from the boat our barometers, fossils, the + minerals, and some ammunition and leave them on the rocks. We are going + over this place as light as possible. The three men help us lift our boats + over a rock 25 or 30 feet high and let them down again over the first + fall, and now we are all ready to start. The last thing before leaving, I + write a letter to my wife and give it to Howland. Sumner gives him his + watch, directing that it be sent to his sister should he not be heard from + again. The records of the expedition have been kept in duplicate. One set + of these is given to Howland; and now we are ready. For the last time they + entreat us not to go on, and tell us that it is madness to set out in this + place; that we can never get safely through it; and, further, that the + river turns again to the south into the granite, and a few miles of such + rapids and falls will exhaust our entire stock of rations, and then + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">281</span><a name="link281" id="link281"></a> + </p> + <p> + it will be too late to climb out. Some tears are shed; it is rather a + solemn parting; each party thinks the other is taking the dangerous + course. + </p> + <p> + My old boat left, I go on board of the "Maid of the Canyon." The three men + climb a crag that overhangs the river to watch us off. The "Maid of the + Canyon" pushes out. We glide rapidly along the foot of the wall, just + grazing one great rock, then pull out a little into the chute of the + second fall and plunge over it. The open compartment is filled when we + strike the first wave below, but we cut through it, and then the men pull + with all their power toward the left wall and swing clear of the dangerous + rock below all right. We are scarcely a minute in running it, and find + that, although it looked bad from above, we have passed many places that + were worse. The other boat follows without more difficulty. We land at the + first + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-175.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-175.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TRIANGULATION STATION. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">282</span><a name="link282" id="link282"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + practicable point below, and fire our guns, as a signal to the men above + that we have come over in safety. Here we remain a couple of hours, hoping + that they will take the smaller boat and follow us. We are behind a curve + in the canyon and cannot see up to where we left them, and so we wait + until their coming seems hopeless, and then push on. + </p> + <p> + And now we have a succession of rapids and falls until noon, all of which + we run in safety. Just after dinner we come to another bad place. A little + stream comes in from the left, and below there is a fall, and still below + another fall. Above, the river tumbles down, over and among the rocks, in + whirlpools and great waves, and the waters are lashed into mad, white + foam. We run along the left, above this, and soon see that we cannot get + down on this side, but it seems possible to let down on the other. We pull + up stream again for 200 or 300 yards and cross. Now there is a bed of + basalt on this northern side of the canyon, with a bold escarpment that + seems to be a hundred feet high. We can climb it and walk along its summit + to a point where we are just at the head of the fall. Here the basalt is + broken down again, so it seems to us, and I direct the men to take a line + to the top of the cliff and let the boats down along the wall. One man + remains in the boat to keep her clear of the rocks and prevent her line + from being caught on the projecting angles. I climb the cliff and pass + along to a point just over the fall and descend by broken rocks, and find + that the break of the fall is above the break of the wall, so that we + cannot land, and that still below the river is very bad, and that there is + no possibility of a portage. Without waiting further to examine and + determine what shall be done, I hasten back to the top of the cliff to + stop the boats from coming down. When I arrive <i>I</i> find the men have + let one of them down to the head of the fall. She is in swift water and + they are not able to pull her back; nor are they able to go on with the + line, as it is not long enough to reach the higher part of the cliff which + is just before them; so they take a bight around a crag. I send two men + back for the other line. The boat is in very swift water, and Bradley is + standing in the open compartment, holding out his oar to prevent her from + striking against the foot of the cliff. Now she shoots out into the stream + and up as far as the line will permit, and then, wheeling, drives headlong + against the rock, and then out and back again, now straining + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">283</span><a name="link283" id="link283"></a> + </p> + <p> + on the line, now striking against the rock. As soon as the second line is + brought, we pass it down to him; but his attention is all taken up with + his own situation, and he does not see that we are passing him the line. I + stand on a projecting rock, waving my hat to gain his attention, for my + voice is drowned by the roaring of the falls. Just at this moment I see + him take his knife from its sheath and step forward to cut the line. He + has evidently decided that it is better to go over with the boat as it is + than to wait for her to be broken to pieces. As he leans over, the boat + sheers again into the stream, the stem-post breaks away and she is loose. + With perfect composure Bradley seizes the great scull oar, places it in + the stern rowlock, and pulls with all his power (and he is an athlete) to + turn the bow of the boat down stream, for he wishes to go bow down, rather + than to drift broadside on. One, two strokes he makes, and a third just as + she goes over, and the boat is fairly turned, and she goes down almost + beyond our sight, though we are more than a hundred feet above the river. + Then she comes up again on a great wave, and down and up, then around + behind some great rocks, and is lost in the mad, white foam below. We + stand frozen with fear, for we see no boat. Bradley is gone! so it seems. + But now, away below, we see something coming out of the waves. It is evi- + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-176.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-176.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CAVATE HOUSES + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">284</span><a name="link284" id="link28_"></a> + CANTONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + dently a boat. A moment more, and we see Bradley standing on deck, + swinging his hat to show that he is all right. But he is in a whirlpool. + We have the stem-post of his boat attached to the line. How badly she may + be disabled we know not. I direct Sumner and Powell to pass along the + cliff and see if they can reach him from below. Hawkins, Hall, and myself + run to the other boat, jump aboard, push out, and away we go over the + falls. A wave rolls over us and our boat is unmanageable. Another great + wave strikes us, and the boat rolls over, and tumbles and tosses, I know + not how. All I know is that Bradley is picking us up. We soon have all + right again, and row to the cliff and wait until Sumner and Powell can + come. After a difficult climb they reach us. We run two or three miles + farther and turn again to the northwest, continuing until night, when we + have run out of the granite once more. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 29.--</i>We start very early this morning. The river still + continues swift, but we have no serious difficulty, and at twelve o'clock + emerge from the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. We are in a valley now, and + low mountains are seen in the distance, coming to the river below. We + recognize this as the Grand Wash. + </p> + <p> + A few years ago a party of Mormons set out from St. George, Utah, taking + with them a boat, and came down to the Grand Wash, where they divided, a + portion of the party crossing the river to explore the San Francisco + Mountains. Three men--Hamblin, Miller, and Crosby--taking the boat, went + on down the river to Callville, landing a few miles below the mouth of the + Rio Virgen. We have their manuscript journal with us, and so the stream is + comparatively well known. + </p> + <p> + To-night we camp on the left bank, in a mesquite thicket. + </p> + <p> + The relief from danger and the joy of success are great. When he who has + been chained by wounds to a hospital cot until his canvas tent seems like + a dungeon cell, until the groans of those who lie about tortured with + probe and knife are piled up, a weight of horror on his ears that he + cannot throw off, cannot forget, and until the stench of festering wounds + and anaesthetic drugs has filled the air with its loathsome burthen,--when + he at last goes out into the open field, what a world he sees! How + beautiful the sky, how bright the sunshine, what "floods of delirious + music" pour from the throats of birds, how sweet the fragrance + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">285</span><a name="link285" id="link285"></a> + </p> + <p> + of earth and tree and blossom! The first hour of convalescent freedom + seems rich recompense for all pain and gloom and terror. + </p> + <p> + Something like these are the feelings we experience to-night. Ever before + us has been an unknown danger, heavier than immediate peril. Every waking + hour passed in the Grand Canyon has been one of toil. We have watched with + deep solicitude the steady disappearance of our scant supply of rations, + and from time to time have seen the river snatch a portion of the little + left, while we were a-hungered. And danger and toil were endured in those + gloomy depths, where ofttimes clouds hid the sky by day and but a narrow + zone of stars could be seen at night. Only during the few hours of deep + sleep, consequent on hard labor, has the roar of the waters been hushed. + Now the danger is over, now the toil has ceased, now the gloom has + disappeared, now the firmament is bounded only by the horizon, and what a + vast expanse of constellations can be seen! + </p> + <p> + The river rolls by us in silent majesty; the quiet of the camp is sweet; + our joy is almost ecstasy. We sit till long after midnight talking of the + Grand Canyon, talking of home, but talking chiefly of the three men who + left us. Are they wandering in those depths, unable to find a way out? Are + they searching over the desert lands above for water? Or are they nearing + the settlements? + </p> + <p> + <i>August 30.--</i>We run in two or three short, low canyons to-day, and + on emerging from one we discover a band of Indians in the valley below. + They see us, and scamper away in eager haste to hide among the rocks. + Although we land and call for them to return, not an Indian can be seen. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-177.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-177.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + STANDING BOCKS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">286</span><a name="link286" id="link286"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + Two or three miles farther down, in turning a short bend of the river, we + come upon another camp. So near are we before they can see us that I can + shout to them, and, being able to speak a little of their language, I tell + them we are friends; but they all flee to the rocks, except a man, a + woman, and two children. We land and talk with them. They are without + lodges, but have built little shelters of boughs, under which' they wallow + in the sand. The man is dressed in a hat; the woman, in a string of beads + only. At first they are evidently much terrified; but when I talk to them + in their own language and tell them we are friends, and inquire after + people in the Mormon towns, they are soon reassured and beg for tobacco. + Of this precious article we have none to spare. Sumner looks around in the + boat for something to give them, and finds a little piece of colored soap, + which they receive as a valuable present,--rather as a thing of beauty + than as a useful commodity, however. They are either unwilling or unable + to tell us anything about the Indians or white people, and so we push off, + for we must lose no time. + </p> + <p> + We camp at noon under the right bank. And now as we push out we are in + great expectancy, for we hope every minute to discover the mouth of the + Rio Virgen. Soon one of the men exclaims: "Yonder's an Indian in the + river." Looking for a few minutes, we certainly do see two or three + persons. The men bend to their oars and pull toward them. Approaching, we + see that there are three white men and an Indian hauling a seine, and then + we discover that it is just at the mouth of the long-sought river. + </p> + <p> + As we come near, the men seem far less surprised to see us than we do to + see them. They evidently know who we are, and on talking with them they + tell us that we have been reported lost long ago, and that some weeks + before a messenger had been sent from Salt Lake City with instructions for + them to watch for any fragments or relics of our party that might drift + down the stream. + </p> + <p> + Our new-found friends, Mr. Asa and his two sons, tell us that they are + pioneers of a town that is to be built on the bank. Eighteen or twenty + miles up the valley of the Rio Virgen there are two Mormon towns, St. + Joseph and St. Thomas. To-night we dispatch an Indian to the + last-mentioned place to bring any letters that may be there for us. + </p> + <p> + Our arrival here is very opportune. When we look over our store of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANTON. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">287</span><a name="link287" id="link287"></a> + </p> + <p> + supplies, we find about 10 pounds of flour, 15 pounds of dried apples, but + 70 or 80 pounds of coffee. + </p> + <p> + <i>August 31.--</i>This afternoon the Indian returns with a letter + informing us that Bishop Leithhead of St. Thomas and two or three other + Mormons are coming down with a wagon, bringing us supplies. They arrive + about sundown. Mr. Asa treats us with great kindness to the extent of his + ability; but Bishop Leithhead brings in his wagon two or three dozen + melons and many other little luxuries, and we are comfortable once more. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 1.--</i>This morning Sumner, Bradley, Hawkins, and Hall, + taking on a small supply of rations, start down the Colorado with the + boats. It is their intention to go to Fort Mojave, and perhaps from there + overland to Los Angeles. + </p> + <p> + Captain Powell and myself return with Bishop Leithhead to St. Thomas. From + St. Thomas we go to Salt Lake City. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-178.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-178.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">288</span><a name="link288" id="link288"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-179.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-179.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MOUNT TRUMBULL, FROM MOUNT LOGAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">289</span><a name="link289" id="link289"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XII. + </p> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + A YEAR has passed, and we have determined to resume the exploration of the + canyons of the Colorado. Our last trip was so hurried, owing to the loss + of rations, and the scientific instruments were so badly injured, that we + are not satisfied with the results obtained; so we shall once more attempt + to pass through the canyons in boats, devoting two or three years to the + trip. + </p> + <p> + It will not be possible to carry in the boats sufficient supplies for the + party for that length of time; so it is thought best to establish depots + of supplies, at intervals of 100 or 200 miles along the river. + </p> + <p> + Between Gunnison's Crossing and the foot of the Grand Canyon, we know of + only two points where the river can be reached--one at the Crossing of the + Fathers, and another a few miles below, at the mouth of the Paria, on a + route which has been explored by Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary. These + two points are so near each other that only one of them can be selected + for the purpose above mentioned, and others must be found. We have been + unable up to this time to obtain, either from Indians or white men, any + information which will give us a clue to any other trail to the river. + </p> + <p> + At the headwaters of the Sevier, we are on the summit of a great + watershed. The Sevier itself flows north and then westward into the lake + of the same name. The Rio Virgen, heading near by, flows to the southwest + into the Colorado, 60 or 70 miles below the Grand Canyon. The Kanab, also + heading near by, runs directly south into the very heart of the Grand + Canyon. The Paria, likewise heading near by, runs a little south of east + and enters the river at the head of Marble Canyon. To the northeast from + this point, other streams which run into the Colorado have their sources, + until, 40 or 50 miles away, we reach the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">290</span><a name="link290" id="link290"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + southern branches of the Dirty Devil River, the mouth of which stream is + but a short distance below the junction of the Grand and Green. + </p> + <p> + The Paunsa'gunt Plateau terminates in a point, which is bounded by a line + of beautiful pink cliffs. At the foot of this plateau, on the west, the + Rio Virgen and Sevier River are dovetailed together, as their minute upper + branches interlock. The upper surface of the plateau inclines to + </p> + <p> + the northeast, so that its waters roll off into the Sevier; but from the + foot of the cliffs, quite around the sharp angle of the plateau, for a + dozen miles, we find numerous springs, whose waters unite to form the + Kanab. A little farther to the northeast the springs gather into streams + that feed the Paria. Here, by the upper springs of the Kanab, we make a + camp, and from this point we are to radiate on a series of trips, + southwest, south, and east. + </p> + <p> + Jacob Hamblin, who has been a missionary among the Indians for more than + twenty years, has collected a number of Kai'vavits, with Chuar'-ruumpeak, + their chief, and they are all camped with us. They assure us that we + cannot reach the river, that we cannot make our way into the depths of the + canyon, but promise to show us the springs and water pockets, which are + very scarce in all + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-180.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-180.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MARY'S VEIL; THE UPPER FALL ON PINE CREEK, A SMALL TRIBUTARY OF THE + SEVIER. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">291</span><a name="link291" id="link291"></a> + </p> + <p> + this region, and to give us all the information in their power. Here we + fit up a pack train, for our bedding and instruments and supplies are to + be carried on the backs of mules and ponies. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 5, 1870.--</i>The several members of the party are engaged in + general preparation for our trip down to the Grand Canyon. + </p> + <p> + Taking with me a white man and an Indian, I start on a climb to the summit + of the Paunsa'gunt Plateau, which rises above us on the east. Our way for + a mile or more is over a great peat bog, which trembles under our feet, + and now and then a mule sinks through the broken turf and we are compelled + to pull it out with ropes. Passing the bog, our way is up a gulch at the + foot of the Pink Cliffs, which form the escarpment, or wall, of the great + plateau. Soon we leave the gulch and climb a long ridge which winds around + to the right toward the summit of the great table. + </p> + <p> + Two hours' riding, climbing, and clambering bring us near the top. We look + below and see clouds drifting up from the south and rolling tumultuously + toward the foot of the cliffs beneath us. Soon all the country below is + covered with a sea of vapor--a billowy, raging, noiseless sea--and as the + vapory flood still rolls up from the south, great waves dash against the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-181.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-181.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PILLING CASCADE, THE LOWER FALLS ON PINE CEEEK. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">292</span><a name="link292" id="link292"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-182.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-182.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ABORIGINAL LADDER. + </p> + <p> + foot of the cliffs and roll back; another tide comes in, is hurled back, + and another and another, lashing the cliffs until the fog rises to the + summit and covers us all. There is a heavy pine and fir forest above, + beset with dead and fallen timber, and we make our way through the + undergrowth to the east. + </p> + <p> + It rains. The clouds discharge their moisture in torrents, and we make for + ourselves shelters of boughs, only to be soon abandoned, and we stand + shivering by a great fire of pine logs and boughs, which the pelting storm + half extinguishes. + </p> + <p> + One, two, three, four hours of the storm, and at last it partially abates. + During this time our animals, which we have turned loose, have sought for + themselves shelter under the trees, and two of them have wandered away + beyond our sight. I go out to follow their tracks, and come near to the + brink of a ledge of rocks, which, in the fog and mist, I suppose to be a + little ridge, and I look for a way by which I can go down. Standing just + here, there is a rift made in the fog below by some current or blast of + wind, which reveals an almost bottomless abyss. I look from the brink of a + great precipice of more than 2,000 feet; but through the mist the forms + are half obscured and all reckoning of distance is lost, and it seems + 10,000 feet, ten miles--any distance the imagination desires to make it. + </p> + <p> + Catching our animals, we return to the camp. We find that the little + streams which come down from the plateau are greatly swollen, but at camp + they have had no rain. The clouds which drifted up from the south, + striking against the plateau, were lifted up into colder regions and + discharged their moisture on the summit and against the sides of the + plateau, but there was no rain in the valley below. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 9.--</i>We make a fair start this morning from the beautiful + meadow at the head of the Kanab, cross the line of little hills at the + headwaters of the Rio Virgen, and pass, to the south, a pretty valley. At + ten o'clock we come to the brink of a great geographic bench--a line of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">293</span><a name="link293" id="link293"></a> + </p> + <p> + cliffs. Behind us are cool springs, green meadows, and forest-clad slopes; + below us, stretching to the south until the world is lost in blue haze, is + a painted desert--not a desert plain, but a desert of rocks cut by deep + gorges and relieved by towering cliffs and pinnacled rocks--naked rocks, + brilliant in the sunlight. + </p> + <p> + By a difficult trail we make our way down the basaltic ledge, through + which innumerable streams here gather into a little river running in a + deep canyon. The river runs close to the foot of the cliffs on the + right-hand side and the trail passes along to the right. At noon we rest + and our animals feed on luxuriant grass. + </p> + <p> + Again we start and make slow progress along a stony way. At night we camp + under an overarching cliff. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 10.</i>--Here the river turns to the west, and our way, + properly, is to the south; but we wish to explore the Rio Virgen as far as + possible. The Indians tell us that the canyon narrows gradually a few + miles below and that it will be impossible to take our animals much + farther down the river. Early in the morning I go down to examine the head + of this narrow part. After breakfast, having concluded to explore the + canyon for a few miles on foot, we arrange that the main party shall + climb the cliff and go around to a point 18 or 20 <i>\</i> miles below, + where, the Indians say, the animals can be taken down by the river, and + three of us set out on, foot. + </p> + <p> + The Indian name of the canyon is Paru'nuweap, or Roaring Water Canyon. + Between the little river and the foot of the walls is a dense growth of + willows, vines, and wild rosebushes, and with great difficulty we make our + way through this tangled mass. It is not a wide stream--only 20 or 30 feet + across in most places; shallow, but very swift. After spending some hours + in breaking our way through the mass of vegetation and climbing rocks here + and there, it is determined to wade along the stream. In some places this + is an easy task, but here and there we come to deep holes where we have to + wade to our armpits. Soon we come to places so narrow + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-183.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-183.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ANOTHER STYLE OF LADDER. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">294</span><a name="link294" id="link294"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + that the river fills the entire channel and we wade perforce. In many + places the bottom is a quicksand, into which we sink, and it is with great + difficulty that we make progress. In some places the holes are so deep + that we have to swim, and our little bundles of blankets and rations are + fixed to a raft made of driftwood and pushed before us. Now and then there + is a little flood-plain, on which we can walk, and we cross and recross + the stream and wade along the channel where the water is so swift as + almost to carry us off our feet and we are in danger every moment of being + swept down, until night comes on. Finding a little patch of flood-plain, + on which there is a huge pile of driftwood and a clump of box-elders, and + near by a mammoth stream bursting from the rocks, we soon have a huge + fire. Our clothes are spread to dry; we make a cup of coffee, take out our + bread and cheese and dried beef, and enjoy a hearty supper. We estimate + that we have traveled eight miles to-day. + </p> + <p> + The canyon here is about 1,200 feet deep. It has been very narrow and + winding all the way down to this point. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 11.--</i>Wading again this morning; sinking in the quicksand, + swimming the deep waters, and making slow and painful progress where the + waters are swift and the bed of the stream rocky. + </p> + <p> + The canyon is steadily becoming deeper and in many places very + narrow--only 20 or 30 feet wide below, and in some places no wider, and + even narrower, for hundreds of feet overhead. There are places where the + river in sweeping by curves has cut far under the rocks, but still + preserves its narrow channel, so that there is an overhanging wall on one + side and an inclined wall on the other. In places a few hundred feet + above, it becomes vertical again, and thus the view to the sky is entirely + closed. Everywhere this deep passage is dark and gloomy and resounds with + the noise of rapid waters. At noon we are in a canyon 2,500 feet deep, and + we come to a fall where the walls are broken down and huge rocks beset the + channel, on which we obtain a foothold to reach a level 200 feet below. + Here the canyon is again wider, and we find a flood-plain along which we + can walk, now on this, and now on that side of the stream. Gradually the + canyon widens; steep rapids, cascades, and cataracts are found along the + river, but we wade only when it is necessary to cross. We make progress + with very great labor, having to climb over piles of broken rocks. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">295</span><a + name="link295" id="link295"></a> + </p> + <p> + Late in the afternoon we come to a little clearing in the valley and see + other signs of civilization and by sundown arrive at the Mormon town + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-184.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-184.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ENTRANCE TO PARU'NUWEAP. + </p> + <p> + of Schunesburg; and here we meet the train, and feast on melons and + grapes. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 12.</i>--Our course for the last two days, through + Paru'nuweap Canyon, was directly to the west. Another stream comes down + from the north and unites just here at Schunesburg with the main branch of + the Rio Virgen. We determine to spend a day in the exploration of this + stream. The Indians call the canyon through which it runs, Mukun'tu-weap, + or Straight, Canyon. Entering this, we have to wade upstream; often the + water fills the entire channel and, although we travel many + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">296</span><a name="link296" id="link296"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + miles, we find no flood-plain, talus, or broken piles of rock at the foot + of the cliff. The walls have smooth, plain faces and are everywhere very + regular and vertical for a thousand feet or more, where they seem to break + back in shelving slopes to higher altitudes; and everywhere, as we go + along, we find springs bursting out at the foot of the walls, and passing + these the river above becomes steadily smaller. The great body of water + which runs below bursts out from beneath this great bed of red sandstone; + as we go up the canyon, it comes to be but a creek, and then a brook. On + the western wall of the canyon stand some buttes, + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-185.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-185.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TOWERS ON THE RIO VIRGEN. + </p> + <p> + towers, and high pinnacled rocks. Going up the canyon, we gain glimpses of + them, here and there. Last summer, after our trip through + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">297</span><a + name="link297" id="link297"></a> + </p> + <p> + the canyons of the Colorado, on our way from the mouth of the Virgen to + Salt Lake City, these were seen as conspicuous landmarks from a distance + away to the southwest of 60 or 70 miles. These tower rocks are known as + the Temples of the Virgen. + </p> + <p> + Having explored this canyon nearly to its head, we return to Schunesburg, + arriving quite late at night. + </p> + <p> + Sitting in camp this evening, Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief of the Kai'vavits, + who is one of our party, tells us there is a tradition among the tribes of + this country that many years ago a great light was seen somewhere in this + region by the Paru'shapats, who lived to the southwest, and that they + supposed it to be a signal kindled to warn them of the approach of the + Navajos, who lived beyond the Colorado River to the east. Then other + signal fires were kindled on the Pine Valley Mountains, Santa Clara + Mountains, and Uinkaret Mountains, so that all the tribes of northern + Arizona, southern Utah, southern Nevada, and southern California were + warned of the approaching danger; but when the Paru'shapats came nearer, + they discovered that it was a fire on one of the great temples; and then + they knew that the fire was not kindled by men, for no human being could + scale the rocks. The <i>Tu'muurrugwait'sigaip,</i> or Rock Rovers, had + kindled a fire to deceive the people. So, in the Indian language this is + called <i>Tu'muurruwait'sigaip Tuweap',</i> or Rock Rovers' Land. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 13.</i>--We start very early this morning, for we have a long + day's travel before us. Our way is across the Rio Virgen to the south. + Coming to the bank of the stream here, we find a strange metamorphosis. + The streams we have seen above, running in narrow channels, leaping and + plunging over the rocks, raging and roaring in their course, are here + united and spread in a thin sheet several hundred yards wide and only a + few inches deep, but running over a bed of quicksand. Crossing the stream, + our trail leads up a narrow canyon, not very deep, and then among the + hills of golden, red, and purple shales and marls. Climbing out of the + valley of the Rio Virgen, we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars and + come out at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. All day we follow this + Indian trail toward the east, and at night camp at a great spring, known + to the Indians as Yellow Rock Spring, but to the Mormons as Pipe Spring; + and near by there is a cabin in which some Mormon + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">298</span><a name="link298" id="link298"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + herders find shelter. Pipe Spring is a point just across the Utah line in + Arizona, and we suppose it to be about 60 miles from the river. Here + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-186.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-186.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MUKUN'TUWEAP CANYON. + </p> + <p> + the Mormons design to build a fort another year, as an outpost for + protection against the Indians. We now discharge a number of the Indians, + but take two with us for + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">299</span><a + name="link299" id="link299"></a> + </p> + <p> + the purpose of showing us the springs, for they are very scarce, very + small, and not easily found. Half a dozen are not known in a district of + country large enough to make as many good-sized counties in Illinois. + There are no running streams, and these springs and water pockets are our + sole dependence. + </p> + <p> + Starting, we leave behind a long line of cliffs, many hundred feet high, + composed of orange and vermilion sandstones. I have named them "Vermilion + Cliffs." When we are out a few miles, I look back and see the morning sun + shining in splendor on their painted faces; the salient angles are on + fire, and the retreating angles are buried in shade, and I gaze on them + until my vision dreams and the cliffs appear a long bank of purple clouds + piled from the horizon high into the heavens. At noon we pass along a + ledge of chocolate cliffs, and, taking out our sandwiches, we make a + dinner as we ride along. + </p> + <p> + Yesterday our Indians discussed for hours the route which we should take. + There is one way, farther by 10 or 12 miles, with sure water; another, + shorter, where water is found sometimes; their conclusion was that water + would be found now; and this is the way we go, yet all day long we are + anxious about it. To be out two days with only the water that can be + carried in two small kegs is to have our animals suffer greatly. At five + o'clock we come to the spot, and there is a huge water pocket containing + several barrels. What a relief! Here we camp for the night. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 15.--</i>Up at daybreak, for it is a long day's march to the + next water. They say we must "run very hard" to reach it by dark. + </p> + <p> + Our course is to the south. From Pipe Spring we can see a mountain, and I + recognize it as the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the + Grand Canyon; and I wish to reach the river just behind the mountain. + There are Indians living in the group, of which it is the highest, whom I + wish to visit on the way. These mountains are of volcanic origin, and we + soon come to ground that is covered with fragments of lava. The way + becomes very difficult. We have to cross deep ravines, the heads of + canyons that run into the Grand Canyon. It is curious now to observe the + knowledge of our Indians. There is not a trail but what they know; every + gulch and every rock seems familiar. I have prided myself on being able to + grasp and retain in my mind the topog- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">300</span><a name="link300" id="link300"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + raphy of a country; but these Indians put me to shame. My knowledge is + only general, embracing the more important features of a region that + remains as a map engraved on my mind; but theirs is particular. They know + every rock and every ledge, every gulch and canyon, and just where to wind + among these to find a pass; and their knowledge is unerring. They cannot + describe a country to you, but they can tell you all the particulars of a + route. + </p> + <p> + I have but one pony for the two, and they were to ride "turn about"; but + Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief, rides, and Shuts, the one-eyed, barelegged, + merry-faced pigmy, walks, and points the way with a slender cane; then + leaps and bounds by the shortest way, and sits down on a rock and waits + demurely until we come, always meeting us with a jest, his face a rich + mine of sunny smiles. + </p> + <p> + At dusk we reach the water pocket. It is in a deep gorge on the flank of + this great mountain. During the rainy season the water rolls down the + mountain side, plunging over precipices, and excavates a deep basin in the + solid rock below. This basin, hidden from the sun, holds water the year + round. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 16.</i>--This morning, while the men are packing the animals, + I climb a little mountain near camp, to obtain a view of the country. It + is a huge pile of volcanic scoria, loose and light as cinders from a + forge, which give way under my feet, and I climb with great labor; but, + reaching the summit and looking to the southeast, I see once more the + labyrinth of deep gorges that flank the Grand Canyon; in the multitude, I + cannot determine whether it is itself in view or not. The memories of + grand and awful months spent in their deep, gloomy solitudes come up, and + I live that life over again for a time. + </p> + <p> + I supposed, before starting, that I could get a good view of the great + mountain from this point; but it is like climbing a chair to look at a + castle. I wish to discover some way by which it can be ascended, as it is + my intention to go to the summit before I return to the settlements. There + is a cliff near the summit and I do not see any way yet. Now down I go, + sliding on the cinders, making them rattle and clang. + </p> + <p> + The Indians say we are to have a short ride to-day and that we shall reach + an Indian village, situated by a good spring. Our way is across the spurs + that put out from the great mountain as we pass it to the left. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">301</span><a name="link301" id="link301"></a> + </p> + <p> + Up and down we go across deep ravines, and the fragments of lava clank + under our horses' feet; now among cedars, now among pines, and now across + mountain-side glades. At one o'clock we descend into a lovely valley, with + a carpet of waving grass; sometimes there is a little water in the upper + end of it, and during some seasons the Indians we wish to find are + encamped here. Chuar'ruumpeak rides on to find them, and to say we are + friends, otherwise they would run away or propose to fight us, should we + come without notice. Soon we see Chuar'ruumpeak riding at full speed and + hear him shouting at the top of his voice, and away in the distance are + two Indians scampering up the mountain side. One stops; the other still + goes on and is soon lost to view. We ride up and find Chuar'ruumpeak + talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the ladies resident in + these mountain glades; she is evidently + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-187.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-187.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE WITCHES' WATER POCKET. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">302</span><a name="link302" id="link302"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + paying taxes, Godiva-like. She tells us that her people are at the spring; + that it is only two hours' ride; that her good master has gone on to tell + them we are coming; and that she is harvesting seeds. + </p> + <p> + We sit down and eat our luncheon and share our biscuits with the woman of + the mountains; then on we go over a divide between two rounded peaks. I + send the party on to the village and climb the peak on the left, riding my + horse to the upper limit of trees and then tugging up afoot. From this + point I can see the Grand Canyon, and I know where I am. I can see the + Indian village, too, in a grassy valley, em -bosomed in the mountains, the + smoke curling up from their fires; my men are turning out their horses and + a group of natives stand around. Down the mountain I go and reach camp at + sunset. After supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire; the dusky + villagers sit around, and we have a smoke and a talk. I explain the object + of my visit, and assure them of my friendly intentions. Then I ask them + about a way down into the canyon. They tell me that years ago a way was + discovered by which parties could go down, but that no one has attempted + it for a long time; that it is a very difficult and very dangerous + undertaking to reach the "Big Water." Then I inquire about the Shi'vwits, + a tribe that lives about + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-188.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-188.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WUNAVAI GATHERING SEEDS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AKD THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">303</span><a + name="link303" id="link303"></a> + </p> + <p> + the springs on the mountain sides and canyon cliffs to the southwest. They + say that their village is now about 30 miles away, and promise to send a + messenger for them to-morrow morning. + </p> + <p> + Having finished our business for the evening, I ask if there is a <i>tugwi'nagunt</i> + in camp; that is, if there is any one present who is skilled in relating + their mythology. Chuar'ruumpeak says Tomor'rountikai, the chief of these + Indians, is a very noted man for his skill in this matter; but they both + object, by saying that the season for <i>tugwi'nai</i> has not yet + arrived. But I had anticipated this, and soon some members of the party + come with pipes and tobacco, a large kettle of coffee, and a tray of + biscuits, and, after sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking, we + all feast, and, warmed up by this, to them, unusually good living, it is + decided that the night shall be spent in relating mythology. I ask + Tomor'rountikai to tell us about the So'kus Wai'unats, or One-Two Boys, + and to this he agrees. + </p> + <p> + The long winter evenings of an Indian camp are usually devoted to the + relation of mythologic stories, which purport to give a history of an + ancient race of animal gods. The stories are usually told by some old man, + assisted by others of the party, who take secondary parts, while the + members of the tribe gather about and make comments or receive impressions + from the morals which are enforced by the story-teller, or, more properly, + story-tellers; for the exercise partakes somewhat of the nature of a + theatrical performance. + </p> + <p> + THE SO'KUS WAI'UNATS. + </p> + <p> + Tumpwinai'rogwinump, He Who Had A Stone Shirt, killed Sikor', the Crane, + and stole his wife, and seeing that she had a child and thinking it would + be an incumbrance to them on their travels, he ordered her to kill it. But + the mother, loving the babe, hid it under her dress and carried it away to + its grandmother. And Stone Shirt carried his captured bride to his own + land. + </p> + <p> + In a few years the child grew to be a fine lad, under the care of his + grandmother, and was her companion wherever she went. + </p> + <p> + One day they were digging flag roots on the margin of the river and + putting them in a heap on the bank. When they had been at work a little + while, the boy perceived that the roots came up with greater ease than was + customary and he asked the old woman the cause of this, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">304</span><a name="link304" id="link304"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + but she did not know; and, as they continued their work, still the reeds + came up with less effort, at which their wonder increased, until the + grandmother said, + </p> + <p> + "Surely, some strange thing is about to transpire." + </p> + <p> + Then the boy went to the heap where they had been placing the roots, and + found that some one had taken them away, and he ran back, exclaiming, + </p> + <p> + "Grandmother, did you take the roots away?" + </p> + <p> + And she answered, + </p> + <p> + "No, my child; perhaps some ghost has taken them off; let us dig no more; + come away." + </p> + <p> + But the boy was not satisfied, as he greatly desired to know what all this + meant; so he searched about for a time, and at length found a man sitting + under a tree, and taunted him with being a thief, and threw mud and stones + at him until he broke the stranger's leg. The man answered not the boy nor + resented the injuries he received, but remained silent and sorrowful; and + when his leg was broken he tied it up in sticks and bathed it in the river + and sat down again under the tree and beckoned the boy to approach. When + the lad came near, the stranger told him he had something of great + importance to reveal. + </p> + <p> + "My son," said he, "did that old woman ever tell you about your father and + mother?" + </p> + <p> + "No," answered the boy; "I have never heard of them." + </p> + <p> + "My son, do you see these bones scattered on the ground? Whose bones are + these?" + </p> + <p> + "How should I know?" answered the boy. "It may be that some elk or deer + has been killed here." + </p> + <p> + "No," said the old man. + </p> + <p> + "Perhaps they are the bones of a bear"; but the old man shook his head. + </p> + <p> + So the boy mentioned many other animals, but the stranger still shook his + head, and finally said, + </p> + <p> + "These are the bones of your father; Stone Shirt killed him and left him + to rot here on the ground like a wolf." + </p> + <p> + And the boy was filled with indignation against the slayer of his father. + </p> + <p> + Then the stranger asked, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">305</span><a name="link305" id="link305"></a> + </p> + <p> + "Is your mother in yonder lodge?" + </p> + <p> + "No," the boy replied. + </p> + <p> + "Does your mother live on the banks of this river?" + </p> + <p> + "I don't know my mother; I have never seen her; she is dead," answered the + boy. + </p> + <p> + "My son," replied the stranger, "Stone Shirt, who killed your father, + stole your mother and took her away to the shore of a distant lake, and + there she is his wife to-day." + </p> + <p> + And the boy wept bitterly and, while the tears filled his eyes so that he + could not see, the stranger disappeared. Then the boy was filled with + wonder at what he had seen and heard, and malice grew in his heart against + his father's enemy. He returned to the old woman and said, + </p> + <p> + "Grandmother, why have you lied to me about my father and mother?" + </p> + <p> + But she answered not, for she knew that a ghost had told all to the boy. + And the boy fell upon the ground weeping and sobbing, until he fell into a + deep sleep, when strange things were told him. + </p> + <p> + His slumber continued three days and three nights and when he awoke he + said to his grandmother: + </p> + <p> + "I am going away to enlist all nations in my fight." + </p> + <p> + And straightway he departed. + </p> + <p> + (Here the boy's travels are related with many circumstances concerning the + way he was received by the people, all given in a series of conversations, + very lengthy; so they will be omitted.) + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-189.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-189.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TERRACE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY OF SHUMOPAVI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">306</span><a name="link306" id="link306"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + Finally he returned in advance of the people whom he had enlisted, + bringing with him Shinau'av, the Wolf, and Togo'av, the Rattlesnake. When + the three had eaten food, the boy said to the old woman: + </p> + <p> + "Grandmother, cut me in two!" + </p> + <p> + But she demurred, saying she did not wish to kill one whom she loved so + dearly. + </p> + <p> + "Cut me in two!" demanded the boy; and he gave her a stone ax, which he + had brought from a distant country, and with a manner of great authority + he again commanded her to cut him in two. So she + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-190.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-190.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A SWEAT HOUSE. + </p> + <p> + stood before him and severed him in twain and fled in terror. And lo! each + part took the form of an entire man, and the one beautiful boy appeared as + two, and they were so much alike no one could tell them apart. + </p> + <p> + When the people or natives whom the boy had enlisted came pouring into the + camp, Shinau'av and Togo'av were engaged in telling them of the wonderful + thing that had happened to the boy, and that now there were two; and they + all held it to be an augury of a successful expedition to the land of + Stone Shirt. And they started on their journey. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">307</span><a + name="link307" id="link307"></a> + </p> + <p> + Now the boy had been told in the dream of his three days' slumber, of a + magical cup, and he had brought it home with him from his journey among + the nations, and the So'kus Wai'unats carried it between them, filled with + water. Shinau'av walked on their right and Togo'av on their left, and the + nations followed in the order in which they had been enlisted. There was a + vast number of them, so that when they were stretched out in line it was + one day's journey from the front to the rear of the column. + </p> + <p> + When they had journeyed two days and were far out on the desert, all the + people thirsted, for they found no water, and they fell down upon the sand + groaning and murmuring that they had been deceived, and they cursed the + One-Two. + </p> + <p> + But the So'kus Wai'unats had been told in the wonderful dream of the + suffering which would be endured, and that the water which they carried in + the cup was to be used only in dire necessity; and the brothers said to + each other: + </p> + <p> + "Now the time has come for us to drink the water." + </p> + <p> + And when one had quaffed of the magical bowl, he found it still full; and + he gave it to the other to drink, and still it was full; and the One-Two + gave it to the people, and one after another did they all drink, and still + the cup was full to the brim. + </p> + <p> + But Shinau'av was dead, and all the people mourned, for he was a great + man. The brothers held the cup over him and sprinkled him with water, when + he arose and said: + </p> + <p> + "Why do you disturb me? I did have a vision of mountain brooks and + meadows, of cane where honey dew was plenty." + </p> + <p> + They gave him the cup and he drank also; but when he had finished there + was none left. Refreshed and rejoicing, they proceeded on their journey. + </p> + <p> + The next day, being without food, they were hungry, and all were about to + perish; and again they murmured at the brothers and cursed them. But the + So'kus Wai'unats saw in the distance an antelope, standing on an eminence + in the plain, in bold relief against the sky; and Shinau'av knew it was + the wonderful antelope with many eyes which Stone Shirt kept for his + watchman; and he proposed to go and kill it, but Togo'av demurred and + said: + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">308</span><a name="link308" id="link308"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + "It were better that I should go, for he will see you and run away." + </p> + <p> + But the So'kus Wai'unats told Shinau'av to go; and he started in a + direction away to the left of where the antelope was standing, that he + might make a long detour about some hills and come upon him from the other + side. + </p> + <p> + Togo'av went a little way from camp and called to the brothers: + </p> + <p> + "Do you see me!" + </p> + <p> + They answered they did not. + </p> + <p> + "Hunt for me." + </p> + <p> + While they were hunting for him, the Rattlesnake said: + </p> + <p> + "I can see you; you are doing so and so," telling them what they were + doing; but they could not find him. + </p> + <p> + Then the Rattlesnake came forth declaring: + </p> + <p> + "Now you know that when I so desire I can see others and I cannot be seen. + Shinau'av cannot kill that antelope, for he has many eyes, and is the + wonderful watchman of Stone Shirt; but I can kill him, for I can go where + he is and he cannot see me." + </p> + <p> + So the brothers were convinced and permitted him to go; and Togo'av went + and killed the antelope. When Shinau'av saw it fall, he was very angry, + for he was extremely proud of his fame as a hunter and anxious to have the + honor of killing this famous antelope, and he ran up with the intention of + killing Togo'av; but when he drew near and saw the antelope was fat and + would make a rich feast for the people, his anger was appeased. + </p> + <p> + "What matters it," said he, "who kills the game, when we can all eat it?" + </p> + <p> + So all the people were fed in abundance and they proceeded on their + journey. + </p> + <p> + The next day the people again suffered for water, and the magical cup was + empty; but the So'kus Wai'unats, having been told in their dream what to + do, transformed themselves into doves and flew away to a lake, on the + margin of which was the home of Stone Shirt. + </p> + <p> + Coming near to the shore, they saw two maidens bathing in the water; and + the birds stood and looked, for the maidens were very beautiful. Then they + flew into some bushes near by, to have a nearer view, and were caught in a + snare which the girls had placed for intrusive birds. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">309</span><a name="link309" id="link309"></a> + </p> + <p> + The beautiful maidens came up and, taking the birds out of the snare, + admired them very much, for they had never seen such birds before. They + carried them to their father, Stone Shirt, who said: + </p> + <p> + "My daughters, I very much fear these are spies from my enemies, for such + birds do not live in our land." + </p> + <p> + He was about to throw them into the fire, when the maidens besought him, + with tears, that he would not destroy their beautiful birds; but he + yielded to their entreaties with much misgiving. Then they took the birds + to the shore of the lake and set them free. + </p> + <p> + When the birds were at liberty once more they flew around among the bushes + until they found the magical cup which they had lost, and taking it up + they carried it out into the middle of the lake and settled down upon the + water, and the maidens supposed they were drowned. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-191.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-191.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN INTERIOR LODGE. + </p> + <p> + The birds, when they had filled their cup, rose again and went back to the + people in the desert, where they arrived just at the right time to save + them with the cup of water, from which each drank; and yet it was full + until the last was satisfied, and then not a drop remained. + </p> + <p> + The brothers reported that they had seen Stone Shirt and his daughters. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">310</span><a name="link310" id="link310"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-192.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-192.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + HALVED AND PINNED TRAPDOOR FRAME OF ZUÑI KIVA. + </p> + <p> + The next day they came near to the home of the enemy, and the brothers, in + proper person, went out to reconnoiter. Seeing a woman gleaning seeds, + they drew near, and knew it was their mother, whom Stone Shirt had stolen + from Sikor', the Crane. They told her they were her sons, but she denied + it and said she had never had but one son; but the boys related to her + their history, with the origin of the two from one, and she was convinced. + She tried to dissuade them from making war upon Stone Shirt, and told them + that no arrow could possibly penetrate his armor, and that he was a great + warrior and had no other delight than in killing his enemies, and that his + daughters also were furnished with magical bows and arrows, which they + could shoot so fast that the arrows would fill the air like a cloud, and + that it was not necessary for them to take aim, for their missiles went + where they willed; they <i>thought</i> the arrows to the hearts of their + enemies; and thus the maidens could kill the whole of the people before a + common arrow could be shot by a common person. But the boys told her what + the spirit had said in the long dream and that it had promised that Stone + Shirt should be killed. They told her to go down to the lake at dawn, so + as not to be endangered by the battle. + </p> + <p> + During the night the So'kus Wai'unats transformed themselves into mice and + proceeded to the home of Stone Shirt and found the magical bows and arrows + that belonged to the maidens, and with their sharp teeth they cut the + sinew on the backs of the bows and nibbled the bow strings, so that they + were worthless. Togo'av hid himself under a rock near by. + </p> + <p> + When dawn came into the sky, Tumpwinai'ro-gwinump, the Stone Shirt man, + arose and walked out of his tent, exulting + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-193.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-193.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WOODEN PIVOT HINGES OF A ZUÑÍ DOOR. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">311</span><a + name="link311" id="link311"></a> + </p> + <p> + in his strength and security, and sat down upon the rock under which + Togo'av was hiding; and he, seeing his opportunity, sank his fangs into + the flesh of the hero. Stone Shirt sprang high into the air and called to + his daughters that they were betrayed and that the enemy was near; and + they seized their magical bows and their quivers filled with magical + arrows and hurried to his defense. At the same time, all the nations who + were surrounding the camp rushed down to battle. But the beautiful + maidens, finding their weapons were destroyed, waved back their enemies, + as if they would parley; and standing for a few moments over the body of + their slain father, sang the death song and danced the death dance, + whirling in giddy circles about the dead hero and wailing with despair, + until they sank down and expired. + </p> + <p> + The conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake; but + Tumpwinai'rogwinump was left to rot and his bones to bleach on the sands, + as he had left Sikor'. + </p> + <p> + There is this proverb among the Utes: "Do not murmur when you suffer in + doing what the spirits have commanded, for a cup of water is provided"; + and another: "What matters it who kills the game, when we can all eat of + it?" + </p> + <p> + It is long after midnight when the performance is ended. The story itself + is interesting, though I had heard it many times before; but never, + perhaps, under circumstances more effective. Stretched beneath tall, + somber pines; a great camp fire; by the fire, men, old, wrinkled, and + ugly; deformed, blear-eyed, wry-faced women; lithe, stately young men; + pretty but simpering maidens, naked children, all intently listening, or + laughing and talking by turns, their strange faces and dusky forms lit up + with the glare of the pine-knot fire. All the circumstances conspired to + make it a scene strange and weird. One old man, the sorcerer or medicine + man of the tribe, peculiarly impressed me. Now and then he would interrupt + the play for the purpose of correcting the speakers or impressing the + moral of the story with a strange dignity and impressiveness that seemed + to pass to the very border of the ludicrous; yet at no time did it make me + smile. + </p> + <p> + The story is finished, but there is yet time for an hour or two of sleep. + I take Chuar'ruumpeak to one side for a talk. The three men who left us in + the canyon last year found their way up the lateral gorge, by which + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">312</span><a name="link312" id="link312"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + they went into the Shi'wits Mountains, lying west of us, where they met + with the Indians and camped with them one or two nights and were finally + killed. I am anxious to learn the circumstances, and as the people of the + tribe who committed the deed live but a little way from these people and + are intimate with them, I ask Chuar'ruumpeak to make inquiry for me. Then + we go to bed. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 17.--</i>Early this morning the Indians come up to our camp. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-194.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-194.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A POULTRY HOUSE OF SICHUMOVI RESEMBLING AN OVEN. + </p> + <p> + They have concluded to send out a young man after the Shi'vwits. The + runner fixes his moccasins, puts some food in a sack and water in a little + wickerwork jug, straps them on his back, and starts at a good round pace. + </p> + <p> + We have concluded to go down the canyon, hoping to meet the Shi'vwits on + our return. Soon we are ready to start, leaving the camp and pack animals + in charge of the two Indians who came with us. As we move out our new + guide comes up, a blear-eyed, weazen-faced, quiet old man, with his bow + and arrows in one hand and a small cane in the other. These Indians all + carry canes with a crooked handle, they say to kill rattlesnakes and to + pull rabbits from their holes. The valley is high up in the mountain and + we descend from it by a rocky, precipitous trail, down, down, down for two + long, weary hours, leading our ponies and stumbling over the rocks. At + last we are at the foot of the mountain, standing on a little knoll, from + which we can look into a canyon below. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">313</span><a + name="link313" id="link313"></a> + </p> + <p> + Into this we descend, and then we follow it for miles, clambering down and + still down. Often we cross beds of lava, that have been poured into the + canyon by lateral channels, and these angular fragments of basalt make the + way very rough for the animals. + </p> + <p> + About two o'clock the guide halts us with his wand, and, springing over + the rocks, he is lost in a gulch. In a few minutes he returns, and tells + us there is a little water below in a pocket. It is vile and our ponies + refuse to drink it. We pass on, still descending. A mile or two from the + water basin we come to a precipice more than 1,000 feet to the bottom. + There is a canyon running at a greater depth and at right angles to this, + into which this enters by the precipice; and this second canyon is a + lateral one to the greater one, in the bottom of which we are to find the + river. Searching about, we find a way by which we can descend along the + shelves and steps and piles of broken rocks. + </p> + <p> + We start, leading our ponies; a wall upon our left; unknown depths on our + right. At places our way is along shelves so narrow or so sloping that I + ache with fear lest a pony should make a misstep and knock a man over the + cliffs with him. Now and then we start the loose rocks under our feet, and + over the cliffs they go, thundering down, down, the echoes rolling through + distant canyons. At last we pass along a level shelf for some distance, + then we turn to the right and zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom. Now + we pass along this lower canyon for two or three miles, to where it + terminates in the Grand Canyon, as the other ended in this, only the river + is 1,800 feet below us, and it seems at this distance to be but a creek. + Our withered guide, the human pickle, seats himself on a rock and seems + wonderfully amused at our discomfiture, for we can see no way by which to + descend to the river. After some minutes he quietly rises and, beckoning + us to follow, points out a narrow sloping shelf on the right, and this is + to be our way. It leads along the cliff for half a mile to a wider bench + beyond, which, he says, is broken down on the other side in a great slide, + and there we can get to the river. So we start out on the shelf; it is so + steep we can hardly stand on it, and to fall or slip is to go--don't look + to see! + </p> + <p> + It is soon manifest that we cannot get the ponies along the ledge. The + storms have washed it down since our guide was here last, years ago. One + of the ponies has gone so far that we cannot turn him back until we + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">314</span><a name="link314" id="link314"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + find a wider place, but at last we get him off. With part of the men, I + take the horses back to the place where there are a few bushes growing and + turn them loose; in the meantime the other men are looking for some way by + which we can get down to the river. When I return, one, Captain Bishop, + has found a way and gone down. We pack bread, coffee, sugar, and two or + three blankets among us, and set out. It is now nearly dark, and we cannot + find the way by which the captain + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-195.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-195.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE HUMAN PICKLE. + </p> + <p> + went, and an hour is spent in fruitless search. Two of the men go away + around an amphitheater, more than a fourth of a mile, and start down a + broken chasm that faces us who are behind. These walls, that are vertical, + or nearly so, are often cut by chasms, where the showers run down, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">315</span><a + name="link315" id="link315"></a> + </p> + <p> + and the top of these chasms will be back a distance from the face of the + wall, and the bed of the chasm will slope down, with here and there a + fall. At other places huge rocks have fallen and block the way. Down such + a one the two men start. There is a curious plant growing out from the + crevices of the rock. A dozen stems will start from one root and grow to + the length of eight or ten feet and not throw out a branch or twig, but + these stems are thickly covered with leaves. Now and then the two men come + to a bunch of dead stems and make a fire to mark for us their way and + progress. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime we find such a gulch and start down, but soon come to the + "jumping-off place," where we can throw a stone and faintly hear it + strike, away below. We fear that we shall have to stay here, clinging to + the rocks until daylight. Our little Indian gathers a few dry stems, ties + them into a bundle, lights one end, and holds it up. The others do the + same, and with these torches we find a way out of trouble. Helping each + other, holding torches for each other, one clinging to another's hand + until we can get footing, then supporting the other on his shoulders, thus + we make our passage into the depths of the canyon. + </p> + <p> + And now Captain Bishop has kindled a huge fire of driftwood on the bank of + the river. This and the fires in the gulch opposite and our own flaming + torches light up little patches that make more manifest the awful darkness + below. Still, on we go for an hour or two, and at last we see Captain + Bishop coming up the gulch with a huge torchlight on his shoulders. He + looks like a fiend, waving brands and lighting the fires of hell, and the + men in the opposite gulch are imps, lighting delusive fires in + inaccessible crevices, over yawning chasms; our own little Indian is + surely the king of wizards, so I think, as I stop for a few moments on a + rock to rest. At last we meet Captain Bishop, with his flaming torch, and + as he has learned the way he soon pilots us to the side of the great + Colorado. We are athirst and hungry, almost to starvation. Here we lie + down on the rocks and drink, just a mouthful or so, as we dare; then we + make a cup of coffee, and spreading our blankets on a sand beach the + roaring Colorado lulls us to sleep. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 18.</i>--We are in the Grand Canyon, by the side of the + Colorado, more than 6,000 feet below our camp on the mountain side, which + is 18 miles away; but the miles of horizontal distance represent but + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">316</span><a name="link316" id="link316"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + a small part of the day's labor before us. It is the mile of altitude we + must gain that makes it a Herculean task. We are up early<i>;</i> a little + bread and coffee, and we look about us. Our conclusion is that we can make + this a depot of supplies, should it be necessary; that we can pack our + rations to the point where we left our animals last night, and that we can + employ Indians to bring them down to the water's edge. + </p> + <p> + On a broad shelf we find the ruins of an old stone house, the walls of + which are broken down, and we can see where the ancient people who lived + here--a race more highly civilized than the present--had made a garden and + used a great spring that comes out of the rocks for irrigation. On some + rocks near by we discover some curious etchings. Still searching about, we + find an obscure trail up the canyon wall, marked here and there by steps + which have been built in the loose rock, elsewhere hewn stairways, and we + find a much easier way to go up than that by which we came down in the + darkness last night. Coming to the top of the wall, we catch our horses + and start. Up the canyon our jaded ponies toil and we reach the second + cliff; up this we go, by easy stages, leading the animals. Now we reach + the offensive water pocket; our ponies have had no water for thirty hours, + and are eager even for this foul fluid. We carefully strain a kettleful + for ourselves, then divide what is left between them--two or three gallons + for each; but it does not satisfy them, and they rage around, refusing to + eat the scanty grass. We boil our kettle of water, and skim it; straining, + boiling, and skimming make it a little better, for it was full of + loathsome, wriggling larvae, with huge black heads. But plenty of coffee + takes away the bad smell, and so modifies the taste that most of us can + drink, though our little Indian seems to prefer the original mixture. We + reach camp about sunset, and are glad to rest. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 19.</i>--We are tired and sore, and must rest a day with our + Indian neighbors. During the inclement season they live in shelters made + of boughs or the bark of the cedar, which they strip off in long shreds. + In this climate, most of the year is dry and warm, and during such time + they do not care for shelter. Clearing a small, circular space of ground, + they bank it around with brush and sand, and wallow in it during the day + and huddle together in a heap at night--men, women, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">317</span><a name="link317" id="link317"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-196.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-196.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + RECENT LAVA FLOW ON THE UINKARET. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-197.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-197.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑI WINDOW GLAZED WITH SELENITE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">318</span><a name="link318" id="link318"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + and children; buckskin, rags, and sand. They wear very little clothing, + not needing much in this lovely climate. + </p> + <p> + Altogether, these Indians are more nearly in their primitive condition + than any others on the continent with whom I am acquainted. They have + never received anything from the government and are too poor to tempt the + trader, and their country is so nearly inaccessible that the white man + never visits them. The sunny mountain side is covered with: wild fruits, + nuts, and native grains, upon which they subsist. The <i>oose,</i> the + fruit of the yucca, or Spanish bayonet, is rich, and not unlike the pawpaw + of the valley of the Ohio. They eat it raw and also roast it in the ashes. + They gather the fruits of a cactus plant, which are rich and luscious, and + eat them as grapes or express the juice from them, making the dry pulp + into cakes and saving them for winter and drinking the wine about their + camp fires until the midnight is merry with their revelries. + </p> + <p> + They gather the seeds of many plants, as sunflowers, golden-rod, and + grasses. For this purpose they have large conical baskets, which hold two + or more bushels. The women carry them on their backs, suspended from their + foreheads by broad straps, and with a smaller one in the left hand and a + willow-woven fan in the right they walk among the grasses and sweep the + seed into the smaller basket, which is emptied now and then into the + larger, until it is full of seeds and chaff; then they winnow out the + chaff and roast the seeds. They roast these curiously; they put seeds and + a quantity of red-hot coals into a willow tray and, by rapidly and + dexterously shaking and tossing them, keep the coals aglow and the seeds + and tray from burning. So skilled are the crones in this work they roll + the seeds to one side of the tray as they are roasted and the coals to the + other as if by magic. + </p> + <p> + Then they grind the seeds into a fine flour and make it into cakes and + mush. It is a merry sight, sometimes, to see the women grinding at the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">319</span><a name="link319" id="link319"></a> + </p> + <p> + mill. For a mill, they use a large flat rock, lying on the ground, and + another small cylindrical one in their hands. They sit prone on the + ground, hold the large flat rock between the feet and legs, then fill + their laps with seeds, making a hopper to the mill with their dusky legs, + and grind by pushing the seeds across the larger rock, where they drop + into a tray. I have seen a group of women grinding together, keeping time + to a chant, or gossiping and chatting, while the younger lassies would + jest and chatter and make the pine woods merry with their laughter. + </p> + <p> + Mothers carry their babes curiously in baskets. They make a wicker board + by plaiting willows and sew a buckskin cloth to either edge, and this is + fulled in the middle so as to form a sack closed at the bottom. At the top + they make a wicker shade, like "my grandmother's sunbonnet," and wrapping + the little one in a wild-cat robe, place it in the basket, and this they + carry on their backs, strapped over the forehead, and the little brown + midgets are ever peering over their mothers' shoulders. In camp, they + stand the basket against the trunk of a tree or hang it to a limb. + </p> + <p> + There is little game in the country, yet they get a mountain sheep now and + then or a deer, with their arrows, for they are not yet supplied with + guns. They get many rabbits, sometimes with arrows, sometimes with nets. + They make a net of twine, made of the fibers of a native flax. Sometimes + this is made a hundred yards in length, and is placed in a half-circular + position, with wings of sage brush. Then they have a circle hunt, and + drive great numbers of rabbits into the snare, where they are shot with + arrows. Most of their bows are made of cedar, but the best are made of the + horns of mountain sheep. These are soaked in water until quite soft, cut + into long thin strips, and glued together; they are then quite elastic. + During the autumn, grasshoppers are very abundant, can be gathered by the + bushel. At such a time, they dig a hole in the sand, heat stones in a fire + near by, put some hot stones in the bottom of the hole, put on a layer of + grasshoppers, then a layer of hot stones, and continue this, until they + put bushels on to roast. There they are. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-198.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-198.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ZUÑÍ CHAIR. + </p> + <p> + When cold weather sets in, these insects are numbed and + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">320</span><a name="link320" id="link320"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-199.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-199.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + AN ANCIENT CIRCULAR DOORWAY OR "STONE CLOSE" IN KIN-TIEL. + </p> + <p> + left until cool, when they are taken out, thoroughly dried, and ground + into meal. Grasshopper gruel or grasshopper cake is a great treat. + </p> + <p> + Their lore consists of a mass of traditions, or mythology. It is very + difficult to induce them to tell it to white men; but the old Spanish + priests, in the days of the conquest of New Mexico, spread among the + Indians of this country many Bible stories, which the Indians are usually + willing to tell. It is not always easy to recognize them; the Indian mind + is a strange receptacle for such stories and they are apt to sprout new + limbs. Maybe much of their added quaint-ness is due to the way in which + they were told by the "fathers." But in a confidential way, while alone, + or when admitted to their camp fire on a winter night, one may hear the + stories of their mythology. I believe that the greatest mark of friendship + or confidence that an Indian can give is to tell you his religion. After + one has so talked with me I should ever trust him; and I feel on very good + terms with these Indians since our experience of the other night. + </p> + <p> + A knowledge of the watering places and of the trails and passes is + considered of great importance and is necessary to give standing to a + chief. + </p> + <p> + This evening, the Shi'vwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and after + supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this we + sit--the Indians living here, the Shi'vwits, Jacob Hamblin, and myself. + </p> + <p> + This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and has a great influence + over all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, reserved + man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet way that inspires great + awe. His talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and + they sit around him in deathlike silence. When he finishes a + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-200.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-200.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A GAMING RING. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">321</span><a + name="link321" id="link321"></a> + </p> + <p> + measured sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt. + But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few whiffs, then pass it + to Hamblin; he smokes, and gives it to the man next, and so it goes + around. When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own pipe, fills and + lights it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in + turn, but when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplused. It has a + large stem, which has at some time been broken, and now there is a + buckskin rag wound around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the + stem is a huge mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, + then engage in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to + my neighbor unlighted. + </p> + <p> + I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in their country + during the coming year and that I would like them to treat me as a friend. + I do not wish to trade; do not want their lands. Heretofore I have found + it very difficult to make the natives understand my object, but the + gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much. I tell them that all the + great and good white men are anxious to know very many things, that they + spend much time in learning, and that the greatest man is he who knows the + most; that the white men want to know all about the mountains and the + valleys, the rivers and the canyons, the beasts and birds and snakes. Then + I tell them of many Indian tribes, and where they live; of the European + nations; of the Chinese, of Africans, and all the strange things about + them that come to my mind. I tell them of the ocean, of great rivers and + high mountains, of strange beasts and birds. At last I tell them I wish to + learn about their canyons and mountains, and about themselves, to tell + other men at home; and that I want to take pictures of everything and show + them to my friends. All this occupies much time, and the matter and manner + make a deep impression. + </p> + <p> + Then their chief replies: "Your talk is good, and we believe what you say. + We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are hungry, + you may have our game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will give you + food when you come to our land. We will show you the springs and you may + drink; the water is good. We will be friends and when you come we will be + glad. We will tell the Indians who live on the other side of the great + river that we have seen Ka'purats, and that he is the Indians' friend. We + will tell them he is Jacob's + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">322</span><a name="link322" id="link322"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + friend. We are very poor. Look at our women and children; they are naked. + We have no horses; we climb the rocks and our feet are sore. We live among + rocks and they yield little food and many thorns. When the cold moons + come, our children are hungry. We have not much to give; you must not + think us mean. You are wise; we have heard you tell strange things. We are + ignorant. Last year we killed three white men. Bad men said they were our + enemies. They told great lies. We thought them true. Wo were mad; it made + us big fools. We are very sorry. Do not think of them; it is done; let us + be friends. We are ignorant--like little children in understanding + compared with you. When we do wrong, do not you get mad and be like + children too. + </p> + <p> + "When white men kill our people, we kill them. Then they kill more of us. + It is not good. We hear that the white men are a great number. When they + stop killing us, there will be no Indian left to + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-201.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-201.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + INTERIOR VIEW OF A TUSAYAN KIVA. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">323</span><a + name="link323" id="link323"></a> + </p> + <p> + bury the dead. We love our country; we know not other lands. We hear that + other lands are better; we do not know. The pines sing and we are glad. + Our children play in the warm sand; we hear them sing and are glad. The + seeds ripen and we have to eat and we are glad. We do not want their good + lands; we want our rocks and the great mountains where our fathers lived. + We are very poor; we are very ignorant; but we are very honest. You have + horses and many things. You are very wise; you have a good heart. We will + be friends. Nothing more have I to say." + </p> + <p> + Ka'purats is the name by which I am known among the Utes and Shoshones, + meaning "arm off." There was much more repetition than I have given, and + much emphasis. After this a few presents were given, we shook hands, and + the council broke up. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hamblin fell into conversation with one of the men and held him until + the others had left, and then learned more of the particulars of the death + of the three men. They came upon the Indian village almost starved and + exhausted with fatigue. They were supplied with food and put on their way + to the settlements. Shortly after they had left, an Indian from the east + side of the Colorado arrived at their village and told them about a number + of miners having killed a squaw in drunken brawl, and no doubt these were + the men; no person had ever come down the canyon; that was impossible; + they were trying to hide their guilt. In this way he worked them into a + great rage. They followed, surrounded the men in ambush, and filled them + full of arrows. + </p> + <p> + That night I slept in peace, although these murderers of my men, and their + friends, the Uinkarets, were sleeping not 500 yards away. While we were + gone to the canyon, the pack train and supplies, enough to make an Indian + rich beyond his wildest dreams, were all left in their charge, and were + all safe; not even a lump of sugar was pilfered by the children. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 20.</i>--For several days we have been discussing the + relative merits of several names for these mountains. The Indians call + them Uinkarets, the region of pines, and we adopt the name. The great + mountain we call Mount Trumbull, in honor of the senator. To-day the train + starts back to the canyon water pocket, while Captain Bishop and + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">324</span><a name="link324" id="link324"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + I climb Mount Trumbull. On our way we pass the point that was the last + opening to the volcano. + </p> + <p> + It seems but a few years since the last flood of fire swept the valley. + Between two rough, conical hills it poured, and ran down the valley to the + foot of a mountain standing almost at the lower end, then parted, and ran + on either side of the mountain. This last overflow is very plainly marked; + there is soil, with trees and grass, to the very edge + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-202.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-202.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CAVE LAKE IN KANAB CANYON. + </p> + <p> + of it, on a more ancient bed. The flood was, everywhere on its border, + from 10 to 20 feet in height, terminating abruptly and looking like a wall + from below. On cooling, it shattered into fragments, but these are still + in place and the outlines of streams and waves can be seen. So + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. <span class="pagenum">325</span><a + name="link325" id="link325"></a> + </p> + <p> + little time has elapsed since it ran down that the elements have not + weathered a soil, and there is scarcely any vegetation on it, but here and + there a lichen is found. And yet, so long ago was it poured from the + depths, that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places, some + huge cedars have grown. Near the crater the frozen waves of black basalt + are rent with deep fissures, transverse to the direction, of the flow. + Then we ride through a cedar forest up a long ascent, until we come to + cliffs of columnar basalt. Here we tie our horses and prepare for a climb + among the columns. Through crevices we work, till at last we are on the + mountain, a thousand acres of pine laud spread out before us, gently + rising to the other edge. There are two peaks on the mountain. We walk two + miles to the foot of the one looking to be the highest, then a long, hard + climb to its summit. What a view is before us! A vision of glory! Peaks of + lava all around below us. The Vermilion Cliffs to the north, with their + splendor of colors; the Pine Valley Mountains to the northwest, clothed in + mellow, perspective haze; unnamed mountains to the southwest, towering + over canyons bottomless to my peering gaze, like chasms to nadir hell; and + away beyond, the San Francisco Mountains, lifting their black heads into + the heavens. We find our way down the mountain, reaching the trail made by + the pack train just at dusk, and follow it through the dark until we see + the camp fire--a welcome sight. + </p> + <p> + Two days more, and we are at Pipe Spring; one day, and we are at Kanab. + Eight miles above the town is a canyon, on either side of which is a group + of lakes. Four of these are in caves where the sun never shines. By the + side of one of these I sit, at my feet the crystal waters, of which I may + drink at will. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">326</span><a name="link326" id="link326"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-203.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-203.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ANCIENT POTTERY FROM TUSAYAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">327</span><a name="link327" id="link327"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XIII. + </p> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. + </p> + <p> + IT IS our intention to explore a route from Kanab to the Colorado River at + the mouth of the Paria, and, if successful in this undertaking, to cross + the river and proceed to Tusayan, and ultimately to Santa Fe, New Mexico. + We propose to build a flatboat for the purpose of ferrying over the river, + and have had the lumber necessary for that purpose hauled from St. George + to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria it must be packed on the + backs of mules; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves are to take charge of this + work, while with Mr. Hamblin I explore the Kaibab Plateau. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 24</i>--To-day we are ready for the start. The mules are + packed and away goes our train of lumber, rations, and camping equipage. + The Indian trail is at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. Pushing on to the + east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning, we reach + the mouth of a dry canyon, which comes down through the cliffs. Instead of + a narrow canyon we find an open valley from one fourth to one half a mile + in width. On rare occasions a stream flows down this valley, but now sand + dunes stretch across it. On either side there is a wall of vertical rock + of orange sandstone, and here and there at the foot of the wall are found + springs that afford sweet water. + </p> + <p> + We push our way far up the valley to the foot of the Gray Cliffs, and by a + long detour find our way to the summit. Here again we find that wonderful + scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses and domes. + Looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink cliffs, crowned + with forests, while below us to the south stretch the dunes and red-lands + of the Vermilion Cliff region, and far away we can see the opposite wall + of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">328</span><a name="link328" id="link328"></a> 8 + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + afternoon we descend into the canyon valley and hurriedly ride, down to + the mouth of the canyon, then follow the trail of the pack train, for we + are to camp with the party to-night. We find it at the Navajo Well. As we + approach in the darkness the camp fire is a cheerful sight. The Navajo + Well is a pool in the sand, the sands themselves lying in a basin, with + naked, smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught and by which + the sand in the basin is filled with water, and by digging into the sand + this sweet water is found. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 25.</i>--At sunrise Mr. Hamblin and I part from the train + once more, taking with us Chuar, a chief of the Kaibabits, for a trip to + the south, for one more view of the Grand Canyon from the summit of the + Kaibab Plateau. All day long our way is over red hills, with a bold line + of cliffs on our left. A little after noon we reach a great spring, and + here we are to camp for the night, for the region beyond us is unknown and + we wish to enter it with a good day before us. The Indian goes out to hunt + a rabbit for supper, and Hamblin and I climb the cliffs. From an elevation + of 1,800 feet above the spring we watch the sun go down and see the sheen + on the Vermilion Cliffs and red-lands slowly fade into the gloaming; then + we descend to supper. + </p> + <p> + <i>September 26.--</i>Early in the morning we pass up a beautiful valley + to the south and turn westward onto a great promontory, from the summit of + which the Grand Canyon is in view. Its deep gorge can be seen to the + westward for 50 or 60 miles, and to the southeastward we look off into the + stupendous chasm, with its marvelous forms and colors. + </p> + <p> + Twenty-one years later I read over the notes of that day's experience and + the picture of the Grand Canyon from this point is once more before me. I + did not know when writing the notes that this was the grandest view that + can be obtained of the region from Fremont's Peak to the Gulf of + California, but I did realize that the scene before me was awful, sublime, + and glorious--awful in profound depths, sublime in massive and strange + forms, and glorious in colors. Years later I visited the same spot with my + friend Thomas Moran. From this world of wonder he selected a section which + was the most interesting to him and painted it. That painting, known as + "The Chasm of the Colorado," is in a hall in the Senate wing of the + Capitol of the United States. If any + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">329</span><a name="link329" id="link329"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-204.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-204.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN FETICHES AND IMPLEMENTS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">330</span><a name="link330" id="link330"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-205.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-205.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN BASKETRY. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. <span class="pagenum">331</span><a name="link331" + id="link331"></a> + </p> + <p> + one will look upon that picture, and then realize that it was but a small + part of the landscape before us on this memorable 26th day of September, + he will understand why I suppress my notes descriptive of the scene. The + landscape is too vast, too complex, too grand for verbal description. + </p> + <p> + We sleep another night by the spring on the summit of the Kaibab, and next + day we go around to Point Sublime and then push on to the very verge of + the Kaibab, where we can overlook the canyon at the mouth of the Little + Colorado. The day is a repetition of the glorious day before, and at night + we sleep again at the same spring. In the morning we turn to the northeast + and descend from Kaibab to the back of Marble Canyon and cross it at the + foot of the Vermilion Cliffs, and find our packers camped at Jacob's Pool, + where a spring bursts from the cliff at the summit of a great hill of + talus. In the camp we find a score or more of Indians, who have joined us + here by previous appointment, as we need their services in crossing the + river. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of September we follow the Vermilion Cliffs around to the + mouth of the Paria. Here the cliffs present a wall of about 2,000 feet in + height,--above, orange and vermilion, but below, chocolate, purple, and + gray in alternating bands of rainbow brightness. The cliffs are cut with + deep side canyons, and the rainbow hills below are destitute of + vegetation. At night we camp on the bank of the Colorado River, on the + same spot where our boat-party had camped the year before. Leaving the + party in charge of Mr. Graves and Mr. Bishop, while they are building a + ferryboat, I take some Indians to explore the canyon of the Paria. We find + steep walls on either side, but a rather broad, flat plain below, through + which the muddy river winds its way over quicksands. This stream we have + to cross from time to time, and we find the quicksands treacherous and our + horses floundering in the trembling masses. + </p> + <p> + These broad canyons, or canyon valleys, are carved by the streams in + obedience to an interesting law of corrasion. Where the declivity of the + stream is great the river corrades, or cuts its bottom deeper and still + deeper, ever forming narrow clefts, but when the stream has cut its + channel down until the declivity is greatly reduced, it can no longer + carry the load of sand with which it is fed, but drops + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">332</span><a name="link332" id="link332"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-206.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-206.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + DANCE PARAPHERNALIA FROM TUSAYAN. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. <span class="pagenum">333</span><a name="link333" + id="link333"></a> + </p> + <p> + a part of it on the way. Wherever it drops it in this manner a sand bank + is formed. Now the effect of this sand bar is to turn the course of the + river against the wall or bank, and as it unloads in one place it cuts in + another below and loads itself again; so it unloads itself and forms bars, + and loads itself with more material to form bars, and the process of + vertical cutting is transformed into a process of lateral cutting. The + rate of cutting is greatly increased thereby, but the wear is on the sides + and not on the bottom. So long as the declivity of the stream is great, + the greater the load of sand carried the greater the rate of vertical + cutting; but when the declivity is reduced, so that part of the load is + thrown down, vertical cutting is changed to lateral and the rate of + corrosion multiplied thereby. Now this broad valley canyon, or "box + canyon," as such channels are usually called in the country, has been + formed by the stream itself, cutting its channel at first vertically and + afterwards laterally, and so a great flood-plain is formed. + </p> + <p> + For a day we ride up the Paria, and next day return. The party in camp + have made good progress. The boat is finished and a part of the camp + freight has been transported across the river. The next day the remainder + is ferried over and the animals are led across, swimming behind the + ferryboat in pairs. Here a bold bluff more than 1,200 feet in height has + to be climbed, and the day is spent in getting to its summit. We make a + dry camp, that is, without water, except that which has been carried in + canteens by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + <i>October 4-</i>--All day long we pass by the foot of the Echo Cliffs, + which are in fact the continuation of the Vermilion Cliffs. It is still a + landscape of rocks, with cliffs and pinnacles and towers and buttes on the + left, and deep chasms running down into the Marble Canyon on the right. At + night we camp at a water pocket, a pool in a great limestone rock. We + still go south for another half day to a cedar ridge; here we turn + westward, climbing the cliffs, which we find to be not the edge of an + escarpment with a plateau above, but a long narrow ridge which descends on + the eastern side to a level only 500 or 600 feet above the trail left + below. On the eastern side of the cliff a great homogeneous sandstone + stretches, declining rapidly, and on its sides are carved innumerable + basins, which are now filled with pure water, and we call this the + Thousand Wells. We have a long afternoon's + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">334</span><a name="link334" id="link334"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + ride over sand dunes, slowly toiling from mile to mile. We can see a ledge + of rocks in the distance, and the Indian with us assures us that we shall + find water there. At night we come to the cliff, and under it, in a great + cave, we find a lakelet. Sweeter, cooler water never blessed the desert. + </p> + <p> + While at Jacob's Pool, several days before, I sent a runner forward into + this region with instructions to hunt us up some of + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-207.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-207.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE THOUSAND WELLS. + </p> + <p> + the natives and bring them to this pool. When we arrive we are + disappointed in not finding them on hand, but a little later half a dozen + men come in with the Indian messenger. They are surly fellows and seem to + be displeased at our coming. Before midnight they leave. Under the + circumstances I do not feel that it is safe to linger long at this spot; + so I do not lie down to rest, but walk the camp among the guards and see + that everything is in readiness to move. About two o'clock I set a couple + of men to prepare a hasty lunch, call up all hands, and we saddle, pack, + eat our lunch, and start off to the southwest to reach + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">335</span><a name="link335" id="link335"></a> + </p> + <p> + the Moenkopi, where there is a little ranchería of Indians, a + farming settlement belonging to the Oraibis, so we are told. We set out at + a rapid rate, and when daylight comes we are in sight of the canyon of the + Moenkopi, into which we soon descend; but the ranchería has been + abandoned. Up the Moenkopi we pass several miles, in a beautiful canyon + valley, until we find a pool in a nook of a cliff, where we feel that we + can defend ourselves with certainty, and here we camp for the night. The + next day we go on to Oraibi, one of the pueblos of the Province of + Tusayan. + </p> + <p> + At Tusayan we stop for two weeks and visit the seven pueblos on the + cliffs. Oraibi is first reached, then Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, and + Mashongnavi, and finally Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano. + </p> + <p> + In a street of Oraibi our little party is gathered. Soon a council is + called by the <i>cacique,</i> or zchief, and we are assigned to a suite of + six or + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-208.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-208.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TERRACED HOUSES IN ORAIBI, SHOWING ENTRANCE TO KIVA IN FOREGROUND. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">336</span><a name="link336" id="link336"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + eight rooms for our quarters. We purchase corn of some of the people, and + after feeding our animals they are intrusted to two Indian boys, who, + under the direction of the <i>cacique,</i> take them to a distant mesa to + herd. This is my first view of an inhabited pueblo, though I have seen + many ruins from time to time. At first I am a little disappointed in the + people. They seem scarcely superior to the Shoshones and Utes, tribes with + whom I am so well acquainted. Their dress is less picturesque, and the men + have an ugly fashion of banging their hair in front so that it comes down + to their eyes and conceals their foreheads. But the women are more neatly + dressed and arrange their hair in picturesque coils. + </p> + <p> + Oraibi is a town of several hundred inhabitants. It stands on a mesa or + little plateau 200 or 300 feet above the surrounding plain. The mesa + itself has a rather diversified surface. The streets of the town are quite + irregular, and in a general way run from north to south. The houses are + constructed to face the east. They are of stone laid in mortar, and are + usually three or four stories high. The second story stands back upon the + first, leaving a terrace over one tier of rooms. The third is set back of + the second, and the fourth back of the third; so that their houses are + terraced to face the east. These terraces on the top are all flat, and the + people usually ascend to the first terrace by a ladder and then by another + into the lower rooms. In like manner, ladders or rude stairways are used + to reach the upper stories. The climate is very warm and the people live + on the tops of their houses. It seems strange to see little naked children + climbing the ladders and running over the house tops like herds of + monkeys. After we have looked about the town and been gazed upon by the + wondering eyes of the men, women, and children, we are at last called to + supper. In a large central room we gather and the food is placed before + us. A stew of goat's flesh is served in earthen bowls, and each one of us + is furnished with a little earthen ladle. The bread is a great novelty to + me. It is made of corn meal in sheets as thin and large as foolscap paper. + In the corner of the house is a little oven, the top of which is a great + flat stone, and the good housewife bakes her bread in this manner: The + corn meal is mixed to the consistency of a rather thick gruel, and the + woman dips her hand into the mixture and plasters the hot + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">337</span><a name="link337" id="link337"></a> + </p> + <p> + stone with a thin coating of the meal paste. In a minute or two it forms + into a thin paperlike cake, and she takes it up by the edge, folds it + once, and places it on a basket tray; then another and another sheet of + paper-bread is made in like manner and piled on the tray. I notice that + the paste stands in a number of different bowls and that she takes from, + one bowl and then another in order, and I soon see the effect of this. The + corn before being ground is assorted by colors, white, yellow, red, blue, + and black, and the sheets of bread, when made, are of the same variety of + colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black. This bread, held on very + beautiful trays, is itself a work of art. They call it + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-209.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-209.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE HOUSE OF TALTI, CHIEF OF THE COUNCIL IN THE TOWN OF OBAIBI. + </p> + <p> + <i>piki.</i> After we have partaken of goat stew and bread a course of + dumplings, melons, and peaches is served, and this finishes the feast. + What seem to be dumplings are composed of a kind of hash of bread and + meat, tied up in little balls with cornhusks and served boiling hot. They + are eaten with much gusto by the party and highly praised. Some days after + we learned how they are made; they are prepared of goat's flesh, bread, + and turnips, and kneaded by mastication. As we prefer to masticate our own + food, this dainty dish is never again a favorite. + </p> + <p> + In the evening the people celebrate our advent by a dance, such it seemed + to us, but probably it was one of their regular ceremonies. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">338</span><a name="link338" id="link338"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + After dark a pretty little fire is built in the chimney corner and I spend + the evening in rehearsing to a group of the leading men the story of my + travels in the canyon country. Of our journey down the canyon in boats + they have already heard, and they listen with great interest to what I + say. My talk with them is in the Mexican patois, which several of them + understand, and all that I say is interpreted. + </p> + <p> + The next morning we are up at daybreak. Soon we hear loud shouts coming + from the top of the house. The <i>cacique</i> is calling his people. Then + all the people, men, women, and children, come out on the tops of their + houses. Just before sunrise they sprinkle water and meal from beautiful + grails; then they all stand with bare heads to watch the rising of the + sun. When his full orb is seen, once more they sprinkle the sacred water + and the sacred meal over the tops of the houses. Then the <i>cacique</i> + in a loud voice directs the labor of the day. So his talk is explained to + us. Some must gather corn, others must go for wood, water must be brought + from the distant wells, and the animals of the strangers must be cared + for. Now the house tops present a lively scene. Bowls of water are + brought; from them the men fill their mouths and with dexterity blow water + over their hands in spray and wash their faces and lave their long shining + heads of hair; and the women dress one another's locks. With bowls of + water they make suds of the yucca plant, and wash and comb and deftly roll + their hair, the elder women in great coils at the back of the head, the + younger women in flat coils on their cheeks. And so the days are passed + and the weeks go by, and we study the language of the people and record + many hundreds of their words and observe their habits and customs and gain + some knowledge of their mythology, but above all do we become interested + in their religious ceremonies. + </p> + <p> + One afternoon they take me from Oraibi to Shupaulovi to witness a great + religious ceremony. It is the invocation to the gods for rain. We arrive + about sundown, and are taken into a large subterranean chamber, into which + we descend by a ladder. Soon about a dozen Shamans are gathered with us, + and the ceremony continues from sunset to sunrise. It is a series of + formal invocations, incantations, and sacrifices, especially of holy meal + and holy water. The leader of the Shamans is a great burly bald-headed + Indian, which is a remarkable + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">339</span><a name="link339" id="link339"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-210.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-210.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PRAYING FOR RAIN. + </p> + <p> + sight, for I have never seen one before. Whatever he says or does is + repeated by three others in turn. The paraphernalia of their worship is + very interesting. At one end of the chamber is a series of tablets of wood + covered with quaint pictures of animals and of corn, and overhead are + conventional black clouds from which yellow lightnings are projected, + while drops of rain fall on the corn below. Wooden birds, set on pedestals + and decorated with plumes, are arranged in various ways. Ears of corn, + vases of holy water, and trays of meal make up a part of the paraphernalia + of worship. I try to record some of the prayers, but am not very + successful, as it is difficult to hold my interpreter to the work. But one + of these prayers is something like this: + </p> + <p> + "Muingwa pash lolomai, Master of the Clouds, we eat no stolen bread; our + young men ride not the stolen ass; our food is not stolen from + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">340</span><a name="link340" id="link340"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + the gardens of our neighbors. Muingwa pash lolomai, we beseech of thee to + dip your great sprinkler, made of the feathers of the birds of the + heavens, into the lakes of the skies and sprinkle us with sweet rains, + that the ground may be prepared in the winter for the corn that grows in + the summer." + </p> + <p> + At one time in the night three women were brought into the <i>kiva.</i> + These women had a cincture of cotton about their loins, but were otherwise + nude. One was very old, another of middle age, and the third quite young, + perhaps fourteen or fifteen years old. As they stood in a corner of the <i>kiva</i> + their faces and bodies were painted by the bald-headed priest. For this + purpose he filled his mouth with water and pigment and dexterously blew a + fine spray over the faces, necks, shoulders, and breasts of the women. + Then with his finger as a brush he decorated them over this groundwork, + which was of yellow, with many figures in various colors. From that time + to daylight the three women remained in the <i>kiva</i> and took part in + the ceremony as choristers and dancing performers. + </p> + <p> + At sunrise we are filed out of the <i>kiva,</i> and a curious sight is + presented to our view. Shupaulovi is built in terraces about a central + court, or plaza, and in the plaza about fifty men are drawn up in a line + facing us. These men are naked except that they wear masks, strange and + grotesque, and great flaring headdresses in many colors. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-211.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-211.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + MASHONGNAVI. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">341</span><a name="link341" id="link341"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-212.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-212.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN TRAYS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">342</span><a name="link342" id="link342"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + Our party from the <i>kiva</i> stand before this line of men, and the + bald-headed priest harangues them in words I cannot understand. Then + across the other end of the plaza a line of women is formed, facing the + line of men, and at a signal from the old Shaman the drums and the + whistles on the terraces, with a great chorus of singers, set up a + tumultuous noise, and with slow shuffling steps the line of men and the + line of women move toward each other in a curious waving dance. When the + lines approach so as to be not more than 10 or 12 feet apart, our party + still being between them, they all change so as to dance backward to their + original positions. This is repeated until the dancers have passed over + the plaza four times. Then there is a wild confusion of dances, the order + of which I cannot understand,--if indeed there is any system, except that + the men and women dance apart. Soon this is over, and the women all file + down the ladder into the <i>kiva</i> and the men strip off their masks and + arrange themselves about the plaza, every one according to his own wish, + but as if in sharp expectancy; then the women return up the ladder from + the <i>kiva</i> and climb to the tops of the houses and stand on the brink + of the nearer terrace. Now the music commences once more, and the old + woman who was painted in the <i>kiva</i> during the night throws + something, I cannot tell what, into the midst of the plaza. With a shout + and a scream, every man jumps for it; one seizes it, another takes it away + from him, and then another secures it; and with shouts and screams they + wrestle and tussle for the charm which the old woman has thrown to them. + After a while some one gets permanent possession of the charm and the + music ceases. Then another is thrown into the midst. So these contests + continue at intervals until high noon. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we return to Oraibi. And now for two days we employ our + time in making a collection of the arts of the people of this town. First, + we display to them our stock of goods, composed of knives, needles, awls, + scissors, paints, dyestuffs, leather, and various fabrics in gay colors. + Then we go around among the people and select the articles of pottery, + stone implements, instruments and utensils made of bone, horn, shell, + articles of clothing and ornament, baskets, trays, and many other things, + and tell the people to bring them the next day to our rooms. A little + after sunrise they come in, and we have a busy day of + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">343</span><a name="link343" id="link343"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-213.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-213.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-214.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-214.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN MASKETTES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">344</span><a name="link344" id="link344"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + barter. When articles are brought in such as I want, I lay them aside. + Then if possible I discover the fancy of the one who brings them, and I + put by the articles the goods which I am willing to give in exchange for + them. Having thus made an offer, I never deviate from it, but leave it to + the option of the other party to take either his own articles or mine + lying beside them. The barter is carried on with a hearty good will; the + people jest and laugh with us and with one another; all are pleased, and + there is nothing to mar this day of pleasure. In the afternoon and evening + I make an inventory of our purchases, and the next day is spent in packing + them for shipment. Some of the things are heavy, and I engage some Indians + to help transport the cargo to Fort Wingate, where we can get army + transportation. + </p> + <p> + <i>October 24-.--</i>To-day we leave Oraibi. We are ready to start in the + early morning. The whole town comes to bid us good-by. Before we start + they perform some strange ceremony which I cannot understand, but, with + invocations to some deity, they sprinkle us, our animals, and our goods + with water and with meal. Then there is a time of handshaking and hugging. + "Good-by; good-by; good-by!" At last we + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-215.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-215.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + SICHUMOVI AND HANO. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. <span class="pagenum">345</span><a name="link345" + id="link345"></a> + </p> + <p> + start. Our way is to Walpi, by a heavy trail over a sand plain, among the + dunes. We arrive a little after noon. Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano are three + little towns on one butte, with but little space between them; the stretch + from town to town is hardly large enough for a game of ball. The top of + the butte is of naked rock, and it rises from 300 to 400 feet above the + sand plains below by a precipitous cliff on every side. To reach it from + below, it must be climbed by niches and stairways in the rock. It is a + good site for defense. At the foot of the cliff and on some terraces the + people have built corrals of stone for their asses. All the water used in + these three towns is derived from a well nearly a mile away--a deep pit + sunk in the sand, over the site of a dune-buried brook. + </p> + <p> + When we arrive the men of Walpi carry our goods, camp equipage, and + saddles up the stairway and deposit them in a little court. Then they + assign us eight or ten rooms for our quarters. Our animals are once more + consigned to the care of Indian herders, and after they are fed they are + sent away to a distance of some miles. There is no tree or shrub growing + near the Walpi mesa. It is miles away to where the stunted cedars are + found, and the people bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of + their donkeys, it being a day's work to bring such a cargo. The people + have anticipated our coming, and the wood for our use is piled in the + chimney corners. After supper the hours till midnight are passed in rather + formal talk. + </p> + <p> + Walpi seems to be a town of about 150 inhabitants, Sichumovi of less than + 100, and Hano of not more than 75. Hano, or "Tewa" as it is sometimes + called, has been built lately; that is, it cannot be more than 100 or 200 + years old. The other towns are very old; their foundation dates back many + centuries--so we gather from this talk. The people of Hano also speak a + radically distinct language, belonging to another stock of tribes. They + formerly lived on the Rio Grande, but during some war they were driven + away and were permitted to build their home here. + </p> + <p> + Two days are spent in trading with the people, and we pride ourselves on + having made a good ethnologic collection. We are especially interested in + seeing the men and women spin and weave. In their courtyards they have + deep chambers excavated in the rocks. These chambers, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">346</span><a name="link346" id="link346"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + which are called <i>kivas,</i> are entered by descending ladders. They are + about 18 by 24 feet in size. The <i>kiva</i> is the place of worship, + where all their ceremonies are performed, where their cult societies meet + to pray for rain and to prepare medicines and charms against fancied and + real ailments and to protect themselves by sorcery from the dangers + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-216.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-216.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WALPI. A VILLAGE OF TUSAYAN. + </p> + <p> + of witchcraft. The <i>kivas</i> are also places for general rendezvous, + and at night the men and women bring their work and chat and laugh, and in + their rude way make the time merry. Many of the tribes of North America + have their cult societies, or "medicine orders," as they are sometimes + called, but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly + than among the pueblo Indians of this region. I am informed that there are + a great number in Tusayan, that a part of their ceremonies are secret and + another part public, and that the times of ceremony are also times for + feasting and athletic sports. + </p> + <p> + Here at Walpi the great snake dance is performed. For several days + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + OVER THE RIVER. <span class="pagenum">347</span><a name="link347" + id="link347"></a> + </p> + <p> + before this festival is held the people with great diligence gather snakes + from the rocks and sands of the region round about and bring them to the + <i>kiva</i> of one of their clans in great numbers, by scores and + hundreds. Most of these snakes are quite harmless, but rattlesnakes + abound, and they are also caught, for they play the most important role in + the great snake dance. The medicine men, or priest doctors, are very deft + in the management of rattlesnakes. When they bring them to the <i>kiva</i> + they herd all the snakes in a great mass of writhing, hissing, rattling + serpents. For this purpose they have little wands, to the end of each one + of which a bunch of feathers is affixed. If a snake attempts to leave its + allotted place in the <i>kiva</i> the medicine man brushes it or tickles + it with the feather-armed wand, and the snake turns again to commingle + with its fellows. After many strange and rather wearisome ceremonies, with + dancing and invocations and ululations, the men of the order prepare for + the great performance with the snakes. Clothed only in loincloth, each one + seizes a snake, and a rattlesnake is preferred if there are enough of them + for all. It is managed in this way: The snake is teased with the feather + wand and his attention occupied by one man, while another, standing near, + at a favorable moment seizes the snake just, back of the head. Then he + puts the snake in his mouth, holding it across, so that the head protrudes + on one side and the body on the other, which coils about his hand and arm. + A few inches of the head and neck are free, and with this free portion the + snake struggles, squirming in the air; but the attention of the snake is + constantly occupied by the attendant who carries the wand. Then the men of + the priest order carrying the snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in + a line in the court and move in a procession several times about the + court, and then engage in a dance. After the ceremony all of the snakes + are carried to the plain and given their freedom. + </p> + <p> + This snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit, but an + account of it was then obtained, such as given above. It has since been + witnessed by myself and by others, and carefully prepared accounts of the + ceremonies have been published by different persons. + </p> + <p> + At last our work at Walpi is done, on October 27, and we arrange to leave + on the morrow. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">348</span><a name="link348" id="link348"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-217.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-217.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN BASKETRY. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">349</span><a name="link349" id="link349"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-218.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-218.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TUSAYAN BASKETRY. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">350</span><a name="link350" id="link350"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-219.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-219.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑÍ FROM HOUSETOPS, LOOKING EAST. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">351</span><a name="link351" id="link351"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XIV. + </p> + <p> + TO ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + OCTOBER 28.--To-day we leave the Province of Tusayan for a journey through + the Navajo country. There is quite an addition to the party now, for we + have a number of Indians employed as freighters. Their asses are loaded + with heavy packs of the collections we have made in the various towns of + Tusayan. After a while we enter a beautiful canyon coming down from the + east, and by noon reach a spring, where we halt for refreshment. The poor + little donkeys are thoroughly wearied, but our own animals have had a long + rest and have been well fed and are all fresh and active. On the rocks of + this canyon picture-writings are etched, and I try to get some account of + them from the Indians, but fail. + </p> + <p> + After lunch we start once more. It is a halcyon day, and with a companion + I leave the train and push on for a view of the country. Away we gallop, + my Indian companion and I, over the country toward a great plateau which + we can see in the distance. The Salahkai is covered with a beautiful + forest. We have an exhilarating ride. When the way becomes stony and rough + we must walk our horses. My Indian, who is well mounted on a beautiful + bay, is a famous rider. About his brow a kerchief is tied, and his long + hair rests on his back. He has keen black eyes and a beaked nose; about + his neck he wears several dozen strings of beads, made of nacre shining + shells, and little tablets of turkis are perforated and strung on sinew + cord; in his ears he has silver rings, and his wrists are covered with + silver bracelets. His leggings are black velvet, the material for which he + has bought from some trader; his moccasins are tan-colored and decorated + with silver ornaments, and the trappings of his horse are decorated in + like manner. He carries his rifle with as much ease as if it were a cane, + and rides with wonderful + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">352</span><a name="link352" id="link352"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + dexterity. We get on with jargon and sign language pretty well. At night, + after a long ride, I descend to the foot of the mesa, and near a little + lake I find the camp. The donkey train has not arrived, but soon one after + another the Indians come in with their packs, and with white men, Oraibi + Indians, Walpi Indians, and Navajos, a good party is assembled. + </p> + <p> + <i>October 29.--</i>We have a long ride before us to-day, for we must + reach old Fort Defiance. I stay with the train in order to keep everything + moving, for we expect to travel late in the night. On the way no water is + found, but in mid-afternoon the trail leads to the brink of a canyon, and + the Indians tell me there is water below; so the animals are unpacked and + taken down the cliff in a winding way among the rocks, where they are + supplied with water. Again we start; night comes on and we are still in + the forest; the trail is good, yet we make slow progress, for some of the + animals are weary and we have to wait from time to time for the + stragglers. About ten o'clock we descend from the plateau to the canyon + beneath and are at old Port Defiance, and the officers at the agency give + us a hearty greeting. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-220.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-220.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO INDIAN WITH SILVER ORNAMENTS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">353</span><a name="link353" id="link353"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-221.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-221.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + BRINGING DOWN THE BATTEN. + </p> + <p> + We spend the 30th of October at the agency and see thousands of Indians, + for they are gathered to receive rations and annuities. It is a wild + spectacle; groups of Indians are gambling, there are several horse races, + and everywhere there is feasting. At night the revelry is increased; great + fires are lighted, and groups of Indians are seen scattered about the + plains. + </p> + <p> + <i>November 1.--</i>After a short day's ride we camp at Rock Spring. A + fountain gushes from the foot of the mesa. Then another day's ride + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">354</span><a name="link354" id="link354"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + through a land of beauty. On the left there is a line of cliffs, like the + Vermilion Cliffs of Utah. In the same red sandstones and on the top of the + cliff the Kaibab scenery is duplicated. A great tower on the cliff is + known as "Navajo Church." Early in the afternoon we are at Fort Wingate + and in civilization once more. The fort is on a beauti- + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-222.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-222.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO CHURCH, NEAR FORT WINGATE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO <span class="font21">ZUÑÍ</span> + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">355</span><a name="link355" id="link355"></a> + </p> + <p> + ful site at the foot of the Zuñi Plateau. And now our journey with + the pack train is ended, and I bid good-by to my Indian friends. My own + pack train is to go back to Utah, while from Fort Wingate I expect to go + to Santa Fe in an ambulance. But the region about is of interest for its + wonderful geologic structure and for the many ruins of ancient pueblos + found in the neighborhood. On the 2d of November Captain Johnson, an + artillery officer, takes me for a ride among the ruins. Many of these + ancient structures are found, but those which are of the most interest are + the round towers. Nothing remains of these but the bare walls. They + average from 18 to 20 feet in diameter, and are usually two or three + stories high. Probably they were built as places of worship. + </p> + <p> + Above Fort Wingate there is a great plateau; below, there stretches a vast + desert plain with mesas and buttes. The ruins are at the foot of the + plateau where the streams come down from the pine-clad heights. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of November with a party of officers I visit Zuñí + in an ambulance. The journey is 40 miles, along the foot of the plateau + half the way, and then we turn into the desert valley, in the midst of + which runs the Zuñi River, sometimes in canyons cut in black lava. + Zuñí is a town much like those already visited, except that + it is a little larger. Nothing can be more repulsive than the appearance + of the streets; irregular, crowded, and filthy, in which dogs, asses, and + Indians are mingled in confusion. In the distance Toyalone is seen, a + great butte on which an extensive ruin is found, the more ancient home of + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-223.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-223.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ROUND TOWER ON A ROCK. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">356</span><a name="link356" id="link356"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + these people, though Zuñi itself appears to be hundreds of years + old. The people speak a language radically different from that of Tusayan, + and no other tribe in the United States has a tongue related to it. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of the town there is an old Spanish church, partly in ruins, + but it is still graced with the wooden image of a saint, gayly colored; + and the old tongueless bell remains, for it was sounded with a stone + hammer held in the hand of the bellman; the marks of his blows are deeply + indented in the metal. Alvar Nuñez Caveza de Vaca was the first + white man to see Zuñi, when he wandered in that long journey from + Florida around by the headwaters of the Arkansas, through what is now New + Mexico and Arizona, southward to the City of Mexico. He had with him a + Barbary negro, who was killed by the Zuñi, and his burial place is + still pointed out. + </p> + <p> + Among the Zuñi, as among the tribes of Tusayan, the form of + government which prevails throughout the North American tribes is well + illustrated. Kinship is the tie by which the members of the tribe are + bound together as a common body of people. Each tribe is divided into a + series of clans, and a clan is a group of people that reckon kinship + through the family line. The children therefore belong to the clan of the + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-224.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-224.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TOYALONE, FROM THE TOP OF A HOUSE IN ZUÑÍ<span class="font17">.</span> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">357</span><a name="link357" id="link357"></a> + </p> + <p> + TO ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">357</span><a name="link357" id="link357_"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-225.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-225.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + TYPICAL TERRACED COMMUNAL PUEBLO. + </p> + <p> + mother. Marriage is always without the clan; the husband and father must + belong to a different clan from the mother and children, and the children + belong to their mother and are governed by her brothers, or by her + mother's brothers if they be still living. The husband is but the guest of + the wife and the clan, and has no other authority in the family than that + acquired by personal character. If he is an able and wise man his advice + may be taken, but each clan is very jealous of its rights, and the members + do not submit to dictation from the guest husband. The woman is<sup>1</sup> + not the ruler of the clan; the ruler is the patriarch or elder man, or if + he is not a man of ability a younger and more able man is chosen, who by + legal fiction is recognized as the elder. Over the officers of the clan + are the officers of the tribe,--a chief with assistant chiefs. The + organization by tribal governors varies from tribe to tribe. Sometimes the + chieftaincy is hereditary in a particular clan, but more often the + chieftaincy is elective. There is very little personal property among the + tribal people, such property being confined to clothing, ornaments, and a + few inconsiderable articles. The ownership of the great bulk of the + property inheres in the clan, such as their + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">358</span><a name="link358" id="link358"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + houses, their patches of land, the food raised from the soil, and the game + caught in the chase. Sometimes the clans are grouped, two or more + constituting a phratry, and then there are other officers or chiefs + standing between the clan and tribal authority. Again, tribes are + sometimes organized into confederacies, and a grand confederate chief + recognized. In addition to the chieftaincy of confederate tribes, + phratries, and clans, there are councils; but these are not councils of + legislation in the ordinary sense. The councils are clans whose decisions + become a precedent. Tribal law is therefore court-made law, and such + customary law grows out of the exigencies which daily life presents to the + people. The problems as they arise are solved as best they may be, and the + deliberations of the councils look not to the future but only to the + present, and are invoked to settle controversy, that peace may be + maintained. Of course there is no written constitution or body of laws, + but there are traditional regulations which are well preserved in the + idioms of oral speech, every rule of procedure or of justice being sooner + or later coined into an aphorism. + </p> + <p> + It has been seen that a clan is a body of kinship in the female line; but + the members of the different clans are related to one another by + intermarriage. Thus the first tie is by affinity; but, as fathers belong + to other clans than the children, the tie is also by consanguinity. Thus + the entire tribe is a body of kindred, and the tribal organization is a + fabric with warp of streams of blood and + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-226.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-226.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + DANCER HOLDING UP THE GREAT PLUMED ARROW. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">359</span><a name="link359" id="link359"></a> + </p> + <p> + woof of marriage ties. When different tribes unite to form a confederacy + for offensive or defensive purposes, artificial kinship is established. + One tribe perhaps is recognized as the grandfather tribe, another is the + father tribe, a third is the elder-brother tribe, a fourth is the + younger-brother tribe, etc. In these artificial kinships the members of + one tribe address the members of another tribe by kinship terms + established in the treaty. Strangers are sometimes adopted into a clan, + and this gives them a status in the tribe. The adoption is usually + accomplished by the woman claiming the individual as her youngest son or + daughter, and such adopted person has thereupon the status belonging to + such a natural child; and, though he be an adult, he calls the child born + into the clan before his advent, though it be but a year old, his elder + brother or his elder sister. Then often young men are advanced in the clan + because of superior ability, and this is done by giving them a kinship + rank higher than that belonging to their real age; so that it is not + infrequently found that old men address young men as their elder brothers + and yield to their authority. The ties of the tribe are kinship, and + authority inheres in superior age; but in order to adjust these rules so + that the abler men may be given control, artificial kinship and artificial + age are established. The civil chiefs direct the daily life of the people + in their labors. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-227.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-227.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + DANCER "SWALLOWING" THE GREAT PLUMED ARROW. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">360</span><a name="link360" id="link360"></a> + </p> + <p> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-228.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-228.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO WOMAN WEAVING A BELT. + </p> + <p> + To the civil organization of the tribe, as thus indicated, there is added + a military organization, and war chiefs are selected. But usually these + war chiefs are something more than war chiefs, for they also constitute a + constabulary to preserve peace and mete out punishment; and young men from + the various clans are designated as warriors + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">361</span><a name="link361" id="link361"></a> + </p> + <p> + TO <span class="font21">ZUÑI. 361</span> + </p> + <p> + and advanced in military rank according to merit. There is thus a + brotherhood of warriors, and every man in this brotherhood recognizes all + others of the group as being elder or younger, and so assumes or + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-229.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-229.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO WOMAN SPINNING. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">362</span><a name="link362" id="link362"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-230.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-230.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A ROOM IN A ZUÑI HOUSE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + TO ZUÑI. <span class="pagenum">363</span><a name="link363" + id="link363"></a> + </p> + <p> + yields authority in all matters pertaining to war and the enforcement of + criminal law. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the secular government there is always a cult government. + In every tribe there are Shamans, designated variously by white men as + "medicine men," "priests," "priest doctors," "theurgists," etc. In many + tribes, perhaps in all, the people are organized into Shamanistic + societies; but that these societies are invariably recognized is not + certain. The Shamans are always found. Among the Zuñi there are + thirteen of these cult societies. The purpose of Shamanistic institutions + is to control the conduct of the members of the tribe in relation to + mythic personages, the mysterious beings in which the savage men believe. + In the mind of the savage the world is peopled by a host of mythic beings, + anthropomorphic and zoomorphic. The difference between man and brute + recognized in civilization, is unrecognized in savagery. All animal life + is wonderful and magical co sylvan man. Wisdom, cunning, skill, and + prowess are attributed to the real animals to a degree often greater than + to man; and there are mythic animals as well as mythic men--monsters + dwelling in the mountains and caves or hiding in the waters, who make + themselves invisible as they pass over the land. Not only are there great + monsters, beasts, and reptiles in their mythology, but there are wonderful + insects and worms. All life is miraculous and is worshiped as divine. The + heavenly bodies, the sun and moon and stars, are mythic animals, and all + of the phenomena of nature are attributed to these zoic beings. For + example, the Indian knows nothing of the ambient air. The wind is the + breath of some beast, or it is a fanning which rises from under the wings + of a mythic bird. All the phenomena of nature, the rising and setting of + the sun, the waxing and waning of the moon, the shining of the stars, the + coming of comets, the flash of meteors, the change of seasons, the + gathering and vanishing of the clouds, the blowing of the winds, the + falling of the rain, the spreading of the snow, and all other phenomena of + physical nature, are held to be the acts of these wonderful zoic deities. + It is deemed of prime importance that such deities should be induced to + act in the interest of men. Thus it is that Shamanistic government is held + to be of as great importance as tribal government, and the Shamans are the + peers of the chiefs. With some tribes the cult socie- + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">364</span><a name="link364" id="link364"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + ties have greater powers than the clan; with other tribes clan government + is the more important; but always there is a conflict of authority, and + there is a perpetual war between Shamanistic and civil government. + </p> + <p> + These Shamans and cult societies have a great variety of functions to + perform. All disease and all injuries are attributed to mythic beings or + to witchcraft, and on these pathologic ideas the medicine practices of the + people are based. The medicine men are sorcerers, who work wonders in + discovering witchcraft and averting its effects or in discovering the + disease-making animals and overcoming their power. So the Shamans and the + cult societies are the possessors of medicine and ceremonies designed to + prevent and cure human ailments. They also have charge of the ceremonies + necessary to avert disaster and to secure success in all the affairs of + life in peace and war; and they prescribe methods and observances and + furnish charms and amulets, and in every way possible control human + conduct in its relation to the unknown. No small part of savage life is + devoted to cult ceremonies and observances. The hunter cannot penetrate + the forest without his charm; the woman cannot plant corn until a ceremony + is performed for securing the blessings of some divine being. Religious + festivals and ceremonies are carried on for days and weeks. A war must be + submitted to the gods, and a sneeze demands a prayer. + </p> + <p> + Our arrival at Fort Wingate practically ended the exploration of the great + valley of the Colorado. This was in 1870. In 1891 we can look back upon + the completion of the survey of all of that region, for it has now been + carefully mapped. The geology of the country has been studied, and the + tribes which inhabit it have been subjects of careful research. This work + has been carried on by a large corps of men, and interesting results have + accrued. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">365</span><a name="link365" id="link365"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-231.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-231.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ASHTISHKEE, A NAVAJO CHIEF. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">366</span><a name="link366" id="link366"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-232.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-232.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, VIEWED FROM THE SOUTH. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">367</span><a name="link367" id="link367"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-233.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-233.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO MEDICINE LODGE, VIEWED FROM THE EAST. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">368</span><a name="link368" id="link368"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-234.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-234.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO FIRE DANCE. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">369</span><a name="link369" id="link369"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-235.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-235.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WORKSHOP OF NAVAJO SILVERSMITH. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">370</span><a name="link370" id="link370"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-236.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-236.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑÍ WOMAN WEAVING A BELT. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">371</span><a name="link371" id="link371"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-237.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-237.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + WEAVING OF DIAMOND-SHAPED DIAGONALS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">372</span><a name="link372" id="link372"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-238.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-238.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑI FETICHES. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">373</span><a name="link373" id="link373"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-239.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-239.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + EFFIGY POTTERY FROM ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">374</span><a name="link374" id="link374"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-240.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-240.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑÍ POTTERY. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">375</span><a name="link375" id="link375"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-241.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-241.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + ZUÑÍ GRAILS. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">376</span><a name="link376" id="link376"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-242.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-242.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + CULINARY POTTERY FROM ZUÑI. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">377</span><a name="link377" id="link377"></a> + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-243.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-243.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NAVAJO FABRICS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">378</span><a name="link378" id="link378"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-244.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-244.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">379</span><a name="link379" id="link379"></a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XV. + </p> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <p> + THE Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles in length, through which flows a + great river with many storm-born tributaries. It has a winding way, as + rivers are wont to have. Its banks are vast structures of adamant, piled + up in forms rarely seen in the mountains. + </p> + <p> + Down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss, slates, and + schists, all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite. Let + this formation be called the black gneiss. It is usually about 800 feet in + thickness. + </p> + <p> + Then over the black gneiss are found 800 feet of quartzites, usually in + very thin beds of many colors, but exceedingly hard, and ringing under the + hammer like phonolite. These beds are dipping and unconformable with the + rocks above; while they make but 800 feet of the wall or less, they have a + geological thickness of 12,000 feet. Set up a row of books aslant; it is + 10 inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books, but there may be + 3 feet of the books measured directly through the leaves. So these + quartzites are aslant, and though of great geologic thickness, they make + but 800 feet of the wall. Your books may have many-colored bindings and + differ greatly in their contents; so these quartzites vary greatly from + place to place along the wall, and in many places they entirely disappear. + Let us call this formation the variegated quartzite. + </p> + <p> + Above the quartzites there are 500 feet of sandstones. They are of a + greenish hue, but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron + stains. They usually stand in a bold cliff, weathered in alcoves. Let this + formation be called the cliff sandstone. + </p> + <p> + Above the cliff sandstone there are 700 feet of bedded sandstones and + limestones, which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">380</span><a name="link380" id="link380"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + thin strata. These rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves. Let this + formation be called the alcove sandstone. + </p> + <p> + Over the alcove sandstone there are 1,600 feet of limestone, in many + places a beautiful marble, as in Marble Canyon. As it appears along the + Grand Canyon it is always stained a brilliant red, for immediately over it + there are thin seams of iron, and the storms have painted these limestones + with pigments from above. Altogether this is the red-wall group. It is + chiefly limestone. Let it be called the red wall limestone. + </p> + <p> + Above the red wall there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sandstone, + alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape. Let it be + called the banded sandstone. + </p> + <p> + And over all, at the top of the wall, is the Aubrey limestone, 1,000 feet + in thickness. This Aubrey has much gypsum in it, great beds of alabaster + that are pure white in comparison with the great body of limestone below. + In the same limestone there are enormous beds of chert, agates, and + carnelians. This limestone is especially remarkable for its pinnacles and + towers. Let it be called the tower limestone. + </p> + <p> + Now recapitulate: The black gneiss below, 800 feet in thickness; the + variegated quartzite, 800 feet in thickness; the cliff sandstone, 500 feet + in thickness; the alcove sandstone, 700 feet in thickness; the red wall + limestone, 1,600 feet in thickness; the banded sandstone, 800 feet in + thickness; the tower limestone, 1,000 feet in thickness. + </p> + <p> + These are the elements with which the walls are constructed, from black + buttress below to alabaster tower above. All of these elements weather in + different forms and are painted in different colors, so that the wall + presents a highly complex facade. A wall of homogeneous granite, like that + in the Yosemite, is but a naked wall, whether it be 1,000 or 5,000 feet + high. Hundreds and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they + stand in a meaningless front. A mountain covered by pure snow 10,000 feet + high has but little more effect on the imagination than a mountain of snow + 1,000 feet high--it is but more of the same thing; but a facade of seven + systems of rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold. + </p> + <p> + Let the effect of this multiplied facade be more clearly realized. Stand + by the river side at some point where only the black gneiss + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">381</span><a name="link381" id="link381"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-245.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-245.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A GABLE WITH PINNACLES. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">382</span><a name="link382" id="link382"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-246.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-246.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + NICHES OR PANELS THE RED WALL LIMESTONE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">383</span><a name="link383" + id="link383"></a> + </p> + <p> + is seen. A precipitous wall of mountain rises over the river, with crag + and pinnacle and cliff in black and brown, and through it runs an angular + pattern of red and gray dikes of granite. It is but a mountain cliff which + may be repeated in many parts of the world, except that it is singularly + naked of vegetation, and the few plants that find footing are of strange + tropical varieties and are conspicuous because of their infrequency. + </p> + <p> + Now climb 800 feet and a point of view is reached where the variegated + quartzites are seen. At the summit of the black gneiss a terrace is found, + and, set back of this terrace, walls of elaborate sculpture appear, 800 + feet in height. This is due to the fact that though the rocks are + exceedingly hard they are in very thin layers or strata, and these strata + are not horizontal, but stand sometimes on edge, sometimes highly + inclined, and sometimes gently inclined. In these variegated beds there + are many deep recesses and sharp salients, everywhere set with crags, and + the wall is buttressed by a steep talus in many places. In the sheen of + the midday sun, these rocks, which are besprinkled with quartz crystals, + gleam like walls of diamonds. + </p> + <p> + A climb of 800 feet over the variegated beds and the foot of the cliff + sandstone is reached. It is usually olive green, with spots of brown and + black, and presents 500 feet of vertical wall over the variegated sand- + stone. The dark green is in fine contrast with the variegated beds below + and the red wall above. + </p> + <p> + Climb these 500 feet and you stand on the cliff sandstone. A terrace + appears, and sometimes a wall of terraces set with alcoves of marvelous + structure. Climb to the summit of this alcove sandstone--700 feet--and you + stand at the foot of the red wall limestone. Sometimes this stands in two, + three, or four Cyclopean steps--a mighty stairway. Oftener the red wall + stands in a vertical cliff 1,600 feet high. It is the most conspicuous + feature of the grand facade and imparts its chief characteristic. All + below is but a foundation for it; all above, but an entablature and + sky-line of gable, tower, pinnacle, and spire. It is not a plain, unbroken + wall, but is broken into vast amphitheaters, often miles abound, between + great angular salients. The amphitheaters also are broken into great + niches that are sometimes vast chambers and sometimes royal arches 500 or + 1,000 feet in height. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">384</span><a name="link384" id="link384"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-247.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-247.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + BOUNDED INWARD CURVES AND PROJECTING CUSPS OF THE WALLS. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">385</span><a name="link385" + id="link385"></a> + </p> + <p> + Over the red wall limestone, with its amphitheaters, chambers, niches, and + royal arches--a climb of 1,600 feet--is the banded sandstone, the + entablature over the niched and columned marble, an adamantine molding 800 + feet in thickness, stretching along the walls of the canyon through + hundreds of miles. This banded sandstone has massive strata separated by + friable shales. The massive strata are the horizontal elements in the + entablature, but the intervening shales are carved with a beautiful + fretwork of vertical forms, the sculpture of the rills. The massive + sandstones are white, gray, blue, and purple, but the shales are a + brilliant red; thus variously colored bands of massive rock are separated + by bands of vertically carved shales of a brilliant hue. + </p> + <p> + On these highly colored beds the tower limestone is found, 1,000 feet in + height. Everywhere this is carved into towers, minarets, and domes, gray + and cold, golden and warm, alabaster and pure, in wonderful variety. + </p> + <p> + Such are the vertical elements of which the Grand Canyon facade is + composed. Its horizontal elements must next be considered. The river + meanders in great curves, which are themselves broken into curves of + smaller magnitude. The streams that head far back in the plateau on either + side come down in gorges and break the wall into sections. Each lateral + canyon has a secondary system of laterals, and the secondary canyons are + broken by tertiary canyons; so the crags are forever branching, like the + limbs of an oak. That which has been described as a wall is such only in + its grand effect. In detail it is a series of structures separated by a + ramification of canyons, each having its own walls. Thus, in passing down + the canyon it seems to be inclosed by walls, but oftener by + salients--towering structures that stand between canyons that run back + into the plateau. Sometimes gorges of the second or third order have met + before reaching the brink of the Grand Canyon, and then great salients are + cut off from the wall and stand out as buttes--huge pavilions in the + architecture of the canyon. The scenic elements thus described are fused + and combined in very different ways. + </p> + <p> + We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river + running through it, but the running extent of wall cannot be measured in + this manner. In the black gneiss, which is at the bottom, the wall may + stand above the river for a few hundred yards or a + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">386</span><a name="link386" id="link386"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + mile or two; then, to follow the foot of the wall, you must pass into a + lateral canyon for a long distance, perhaps miles, and then back again on + the other side of the lateral canyon; then along by the river until + another lateral canyon is reached, which must be headed in the black + gneiss. So, for a dozen miles of river through the gneiss, there may be a + hundred miles of wall on either side. Climbing to the summit of the black + gneiss and following the wall in the variegated quartzite, it is found to + be stretched out to a still greater length, for it is cut with more + lateral gorges. In like manner, there is yet greater length of the + mottled, or alcove, sandstone wall; and the red wall is still farther + stretched out in ever branching gorges. To make the distance for ten miles + along the river by walking along the top of the red wall, it would be + necessary to travel several hundred miles. The length of the wall reaches + its maximum in the banded sandstone, which is terraced more than any of + the other formations. The tower limestone wall is less tortuous. To start + at the head of the Grand Canyon on one of the terraces of the banded + sandstone and follow it to the foot of the Grand Canyon, which by river is + a distance of 217 miles, it would be necessary to travel many thousand + miles by the winding Way; that is, the banded wall is many thousand miles + in length. + </p> + <p> + Stand at some point on the brink of the Grand Canyon where you can + overlook the river, and the details of the structure, the vast labyrinth + of gorges of which it is composed, are scarcely noticed; the elements are + lost in the grand effect, and a broad, deep, flaring gorge of many colors + is seen. But stand down among these gorges and the landscape seems to be + composed of huge vertical elements of wonderful form. Above, it is an + open, sunny gorge; below, it is deep and gloomy. Above, it is a chasm; + below, it is a stairway from gloom to heaven. + </p> + <p> + The traveler in the region of mountains sees vast masses piled up in + gentle declivities to the clouds. To see mountains in this way is to + appreciate the masses of which they are composed. But the climber among + the glaciers sees the elements of which this mass is composed,--that it is + made of cliffs and towers and pinnacles, with intervening gorges, and the + smooth billows of granite seen from afar are transformed into cliffs and + caves and towers and minarets. These two aspects of mountain scenery have + been seized by painters, and in their art + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">387</span><a name="link387" id="link387"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-248.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-248.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE EASTERN TEMPLE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">388</span><a name="link388" id="link388"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-249.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-249.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE WESTERN TEMPLE. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">389</span><a name="link389" + id="link389"></a> + </p> + <p> + two classes of mountains are represented: mountains with towering forms + that seem ready to topple in the first storm, and mountains in masses that + seem to frown defiance at the tempests. Both classes have told the truth. + The two aspects are sometimes caught by our painters severally; sometimes + they are combined. Church paints a mountain like a kingdom of glory. + Bierstadt paints a mountain cliff where an eagle is lost from sight ere he + reaches the summit. Thomas Moran marries these great characteristics, and + in his infinite masses cliffs of immeasurable height are seen. + </p> + <p> + Thus the elements of the facade of the Grand Canyon change vertically and + horizontally. The details of structure can be seen only at close view, but + grand effects of structure can be witnessed in great panoramic scenes. + Seen in detail, gorges and precipices appear; seen at a distance, in + comprehensive views, vast massive structures are presented. The traveler + on the brink looks from afar and is overwhelmed with the sublimity of + massive forms; the traveler among the gorges stands in the presence of + awful mysteries, profound, solemn, and gloomy. + </p> + <p> + For 8 or 10 miles below the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river is in + the variegated quartzites, and a wonderful fretwork of forms and colors, + peculiar to this rock, stretches back for miles to a labyrinth of the red + wall cliff; then below, the black gneiss is entered and soon has reached + an altitude of 800 feet and sometimes more than 1,000 feet; and upon this + black gneiss all the other structures in their wonderful colors are + lifted. These continue for about 70 miles, when the black gneiss below is + lost, for the walls are dropped down by the West Kaibab Fault, and the + river flows in the quartzites. + </p> + <p> + Then for 80 miles the mottled, or alcove, sandstones are found in the + river bed. The course of the canyon is a little south of west and is + comparatively straight. At the top of the red wall limestone there is a + broad terrace, two or three miles in width, composed of hills of wonderful + forms carved in the banded beds, and back of this is seen a cliff in the + tower limestone. Along the lower course of this stretch the whole + character of the canyon is changed by another set of complicating + conditions. We have now reached a region of volcanic activity. After the + canyons were cut nearly to their present depth, + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">390</span><a name="link390" id="link390"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + lavas poured out and volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon, but + not in the canyon itself, though at places rivers of molten rock rolled + down the walls into the Colorado. + </p> + <p> + The next 80 miles of the canyon is a compound of that found where the + river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes stand + on the brink of the wall. In the first stretch, where the gneiss is at the + foundation, we have a great bend to the south, and in the last stretch, + where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes above, another great + southern detour is found. These two great beds are separated by 80 miles + of comparatively straight river. Let us call this first great bend the + Kaibab reach of the canyon, and the straight part the Kanab reach, for the + Kanab Creek heads far off in the plateau to the north and joins the + Colorado at the beginning of the middle stretch. The third great southern + bend is the Shiwits stretch. Thus there are three distinct portions of the + Grand Canyon of the Colorado: the Kaibab section, characterized more by + its buttes and salients; the Kanab section, characterized by its + comparatively straight walls with volcanoes on the brink; and the Shiwits + section, which is broken into great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and + volcanoes at the top. + </p> + <p> + The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is a canyon composed of many canyons. It + is a composite of thousands, of tens of thousands, of gorges. In like + manner, each wall of the canyon is a composite structure, a wall composed + of many walls, but never a repetition. Every one of these almost + innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in itself. In the Grand Canyon + there are thousands of gorges like that below Niagara Palls, and there are + a thousand Yosemites. Yet all these canyons unite to form one grand + canyon, the most sublime spectacle on the earth. Pluck up Mt. Washington + by the roots to the level of the sea and drop it headfirst into the Grand + Canyon, and the dam will not force its waters over the walls. Pluck up the + Blue Ridge and hurl it into the Grand Canyon, and it will not fill it. + </p> + <p> + The carving of the Grand Canyon is the work of rains and rivers. The vast + labyrinth of canyon by which the plateau region drained by the Colorado is + dissected is also the work of waters. Every river has excavated its own + gorge and every creek has excavated its gorge. When + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">391</span><a name="link391" id="link391"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-250.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-250.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GRANITE FALLS, KIABAB DIVISION, GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">392</span><a name="link392" id="link392"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-251.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-251.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + DIKES IN THE CANYON WALL. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">393</span><a name="link393" + id="link393"></a> + </p> + <p> + a shower comes in this land, the rills carve canyons--but a little at each + storm; and though storms are far apart and the heavens above are cloudless + for most of the days of the year, still, years are plenty in the ages, and + an intermittent rill called to life by a shower can do much work in + centuries of centuries. + </p> + <p> + The erosion represented in the canyons, although vast, is but a small part + of the great erosion of the region, for between the cliffs blocks have + been carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to fill the + canyons. Probably there is no portion of the whole region from which there + have not been more than a thousand feet degraded, and there are districts + from which more than 30,000 feet of rock have been carried away. + Altogether, there is a district of country more than 200,000 square miles + in extent from which on the average more than 6,000 feet have been eroded. + Consider a rock 200,000 square miles in extent and a mile in thickness, + against which the clouds have hurled their storms and beat it into sands + and the rills have carried the sands into the creeks and the creeks have + carried them into the rivers and the Colorado has carried them into the + sea. We think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows, but + the clouds have formed the mountains. Great continental blocks are + upheaved from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the + earth. Then the wandering clouds, the tempest-bearing clouds, the + rainbow-decked clouds, with mighty power and with wonderful skill, carve + out valleys and canyons and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains. The + clouds are the artists sublime. + </p> + <p> + In winter some of the characteristics of the Grand Canyon are emphasized. + The black gneiss below, the variegated quartzite, and the green or alcove + sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall. The banded + sandstone entablature is crowned by the tower limestone. In winter this is + covered with snow. Seen from below, these changing elements seem to + graduate into the heavens, and no plane of demarcation between wall and + blue firmament can be seen. The heavens constitute a portion of the facade + and mount into a vast dome from wall to wall, spanning the Grand Canyon + with empyrean blue. So the earth and the heavens are blended in one vast + structure. + </p> + <p> + When the clouds play in the canyon, as they often do in the rainy season, + another set of effects is produced. Clouds creep out of canyons + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">394</span><a name="link394" id="link394"></a> + CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. + </p> + <p> + and wind into other canyons. The heavens seem to be alive, not moving as + move the heavens over a plain, in one direction with the wind, but + following the multiplied courses of these gorges. In this manner the + little clouds seem to be individualized, to have wills and souls of their + own, and to be going on diverse errands--a vast assemblage of self-willed + clouds, faring here and there, intent upon purposes hidden in their own + breasts. In the imagination the clouds belong to the sky, and when they + are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to the + cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must still be + far away. Thus they lend infinity to the walls. + </p> + <p> + The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in + symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic art + are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. + Language and illustration combined must fail. The elements that unite to + make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are + multifarious and exceedingly diverse. The Cyclopean forms which result + from the sculpture of tempests through ages too long for man to compute, + are wrought into endless details, to describe which would be a task equal + in magnitude to that of describing the stars of the heavens or the + multitudinous beauties of the forest with its traceries of foliage + presented by oak and pine and poplar, by beech and linden and hawthorn, by + tulip and lily and rose, by fern and moss and lichen. Besides the elements + of form, there are elements of color, for here the colors of the heavens + are rivaled by the colors of the rocks. The rainbow is not more replete + with hues. But form and color do not exhaust all the divine qualities of + the Grand Canyon. It is the land of music. The river thunders in perpetual + roar, swelling in floods of music when the storm gods play upon the rocks + and fading away in soft and low murmurs when the infinite blue of heaven + is unveiled. With the melody of the great tide rising and falling, + swelling and vanishing forever, other melodies are heard in the gorges of + the lateral canyons, while the waters plunge in the rapids among the rocks + or leap in great cataracts. Thus the Grand Canyon, is a land of song. + Mountains of music swell in the rivers, hills of music billow in the + creeks, and meadows of music murmur in the rills that ripple over the + rocks. Altogether it is a symphony of multitudinous melodies. All this is + the music of waters. The adamant + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">395</span><a name="link395" id="link395"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-252.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-252.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + PINNACLES OF THE KAIBAB. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-253.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-253.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + VISHNU'S TEMPLE. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-254.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-254.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING EAST. + </p> + <p> + E. C. Eastern Cloister. F. San Fraucisco Mount. K. Mount Kendricks. + </p> + <p> + 1. Cherty limestone. 2. Upper Aubrey limestone. 3. Cross-bedded sandstone. + 4. Lower Anbrey sandstone. + </p> + <p> + 5. Upper Red Wall. + </p> + <p> + 6. Red Wall limestones. + </p> + <p> + 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones. + </p> + <p> + H. Hindoo Amphitheater. S. Shiva's Temple. R. Cape RoyaL + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">396</span><a name="link396" id="link396"></a> + </p> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-255.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-255.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING WEST. + </p> + <p> + E. Mount Emma. I. Inner Gorge. P. Powell's Plateau. T. Mount TrumbulL + </p> + <p> + 1. Cherty llmestone. + </p> + <p> + 2. Upper Aubrey limestone + </p> + <p> + 3. Cross-bedded sandstone + </p> + <p> + 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstone + </p> + <p> + 8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous. + </p> + <p> + 9. Archaean. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-256.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-256.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + A. Bill Williams Peak B. Tower of Babel C. Colorado River F. Mount Floyd. + ' + </p> + <p> + G. Monnt Sitgreaven. + </p> + <p> + I. Inner Gorge + </p> + <p> + TT. Twin Temples. W.C. West Cloister. + </p> + <p> + KEY TO THE PANORAMA FROM POINT SUBLIME.--LOOKING SOUTH. + </p> + <p> + 1. Cherry limestone, 240 feet. + </p> + <p> + 3. Upper Aubrey limestone, 320 feet + </p> + <p> + 3. Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 feet + </p> + <p> + 4. Lower Aubrey sandstones, 950 feet. 5. Upper Red Wall sandstones, 400 + feet. 6. Red Wall limestones, 1.500 fett. + </p> + <p> + 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones, 550 fret. + </p> + <p> + 8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous, 180 feet. + </p> + <p> + 9. Archaean. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-257.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-257.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + GRAND CANYON AT THE FOOT OF THE TOROWEAP, LOOKING EAST. + </p> + <hr /> + <div class="fig" style="width:50%;"> + <img src="images/powell-canyons-258.jpg" alt="powell-canyons-258.jpg" + width="100%" /><br /> + </div> + <p> + THE GREAT UNCONFORMITY AT THE HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + THE GRAND CANYON. <span class="pagenum">397</span><a name="link397" + id="link397"></a> + </p> + <p> + foundations of the earth have been wrought into a sublime harp, upon which + the clouds of the heavens play with mighty tempests or with gentle + showers. + </p> + <p> + The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite in the Grand + Canyon--forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with + sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling + raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain. But more: it is a vast + district of country. Were it a valley plain it would make a state. It can + be seen only in parts from hour to hour and from day to day and from week + to week and from month to month. A year scarcely suffices to see it all. + It has infinite variety, and no part is ever duplicated. Its colors, + though many and complex at any instant, change with the ascending and + declining sun; lights and shadows appear and vanish with the passing + clouds, and the changing seasons mark their passage in changing colors. + You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless + spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to + toil from month to month through its labyrinths. It is a region more + difficult to traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if strength and + courage are sufficient for the task, by a year's toil a concept of + sublimity can be obtained never again to be equaled on the hither side of + Paradise. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">399</span><a name="link399" id="link399"></a> + </p> + <p> + INDEX. + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + Apache Indians, home and character of the ....<a href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Art, ancient, vestiges of, in the Gila and Colorado valleys .<a + href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Bad lands, formation and characteristics of the ....<a href="#link68">68</a>,71 + </p> + <p> + Bad lands of Green River ........<a href="#link124">124</a> + </p> + <p> + Baker, John, a famous mountaineer ......<a href="#link131">131</a> + </p> + <p> + Bierstadt, how he paints a mountain ......<a href="#link389">389</a> + </p> + <p> + Boats and cargoes, description of ......<a href="#link119">119</a> + </p> + <p> + Bosque Redondo, Navajos on a reservation at the ...<a href="#link52">52</a> + </p> + <p> + Bradley, G. T., a member of the expedition .. . . . . . . v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Bradley rescues others from the water ......<a href="#link284">284</a> + </p> + <p> + Buttes, mesas, plateaus, distinction between ....<a href="#link46">46</a> + </p> + <p> + Canyon cutting in the upper Colorado basin ....<a href="#link29">29</a> + </p> + <p> + Cávate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians ....<a href="#link56">56</a> + </p> + <p> + Caves in a volcanic crater used as habitations by Indians .<a + href="#link43">43</a> + </p> + <p> + Caves in cliffs used as habitations by Indians ....<a href="#link41">41</a> + </p> + <p> + Ceremony at Shupaulovi to bring rain .....<a href="#link338">338</a>-342 + </p> + <p> + Chambers excavated in volcanic ashes by Indians for habitations . . 42 + </p> + <p> + Chumehueva Indians, low condition and former home of the <a href="#link27">27</a> + </p> + <p> + Church, how he paints a mountain ......<a href="#link389">389</a> + </p> + <p> + Cinder-cone town formerly inhabited by Indians ...<a href="#link42">42</a> + </p> + <p> + Cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians ......<a href="#link56">56</a> + </p> + <p> + Cliff village of Walnut Cany on .......<a href="#link41">41</a> + </p> + <p> + Collecting specimens of the art of Tusayan ....<a href="#link342">342</a>-344 + </p> + <p> + Colorado Canyon broken by lateral canyons ....<a href="#link29">29</a> + </p> + <p> + Colorado Desert, singular characteristics of the ....<a href="#link22">22</a> + </p> + <p> + Crater town formerly inhabited by Indians ....<a href="#link43">43</a> + </p> + <p> + Cult societies among the Indiana .......<a href="#link363">363</a>-364 + </p> + <p> + Death, supposed, of the author .......... iii + </p> + <p> + Digger Indians, the original ........<a href="#link27">27</a> + </p> + <p> + Dunn, W. H., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Dunn, W. H., abandons the party and is killed by Indians .<a + href="#link280">280</a>,323 + </p> + <p> + Freebooters of the Plateau Province ......<a href="#link84">84</a> + </p> + <p> + Fremont's Peak, height of and view from .....<a href="#link67">67</a> + </p> + <p> + Garfield, J. A., insists on the publication of the history of the + expedition . iv + </p> + <p> + Goodman, Frank, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Goodman, Frank, leaves the party .......<a href="#link187">187</a> + </p> + <p> + Government, civil, military, and religious, among the tribes of Tusayan . + 356-364 + </p> + <p> + Grand Canyon, how formed . . ' . . . .89 + </p> + <p> + Grand Canyon, the most sublime spectacle on earth ..<a href="#link390">390</a>,397 + </p> + <p> + Grand Canyon walls, elements of and height of ...<a href="#link251">251</a>, + 379-389 + </p> + <p> + Hall, Andrew, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Hano, a visit to ...........<a href="#link345">345</a> + </p> + <p> + Hano, location and language of .......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Hawkins, W. R., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Rowland, O. G., a member of the expedition ....... v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Rowland, Seneca, a member of the expedition ....... v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Howland and Dunn abandon the party and are killed by Indians . . 280,323 + </p> + <p> + Instruments, tools, rations, etc. .......<a href="#link119">119</a> + </p> + <p> + Irrigation and hydraulic works built by the Indians ..<a href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Irrigation developed by the Navajo and other Indians ..<a href="#link52">52</a>, + 111 + </p> + <p> + Killing by the Shivwits of the three men who left the party <a + href="#link323">323</a> . + </p> + <p> + Kinship ties among the tribes of North America ....<a href="#link356">356</a>-358 + </p> + <p> + Kit Carson, leadership of, against the Navajos ....<a href="#link51">51</a> + </p> + <p> + Maricopa Indians, home and character of the ....<a href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Marriage and kinship ties among the North American Indians . . . 357-359 + </p> + <p> + Mashongnavi, a visit to .........<a href="#link335">335</a> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum">40</span><a name="link40" id="link40_"></a> 0 INDEX. + </p> + <p> + PAGE + </p> + <p> + Mashongnavi, location and language of .....<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Medicine-man as historian, priest, and doctor . . . . . .65,106,363 + </p> + <p> + Men who composed the exploring party .....<a href="#link120">120</a> + </p> + <p> + Mesas, plateaus, buttes, distinction between . . . . . . . . . 46 + </p> + <p> + Mogollon Escarpment, description of the .....<a href="#link27">27</a> + </p> + <p> + Mojave Indians, former home and life of the . . . . . . . . 27 + </p> + <p> + Moran, Thomas, how he paints a mountain ....<a href="#link389">389</a> + </p> + <p> + Moran, Thomas, painting of "The Chasm of the Colorado" . . . .328 + </p> + <p> + Myth, Indian, of the origin of the Colorado Canyon and River <a + href="#link37">37</a> + </p> + <p> + Myth of the Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys ...<a href="#link303">303</a>-311 + </p> + <p> + Mythic stories of the Ute and other Indians ....<a href="#link65">65</a>,107 + </p> + <p> + Navajo Indians, home, characteristics, language, art, etc., of the <a + href="#link51">51</a> + </p> + <p> + Oraibi, a visit to ..........<a href="#link335">335</a> + </p> + <p> + Oraibi, collecting the arts of the people of .....<a href="#link342">342</a>-344 + </p> + <p> + Oraibi, life at ...........<a href="#link336">336</a>-338 + </p> + <p> + Oraibi, location and language of .......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Painted Desert region, description of the .....<a href="#link45">45</a> + </p> + <p> + Papago Indians, home and character of the .....<a href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Pestilence and war causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113 + </p> + <p> + Pima Indians, home and character of the .....<a href="#link24">24</a> + </p> + <p> + Plateaus, mesas, buttes, distinction between ....<a href="#link46">46</a> + </p> + <p> + Powell, W. H., a member of the expedition ........ v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Pueblo Indians, languages and culture of the . . . . . . . ill + </p> + <p> + Rabbit snaring by the Utes ........<a href="#link105">105</a> + </p> + <p> + Rations, clothing, ammunition, tools, and scientific instruments . . . 119 + </p> + <p> + Rescued from a perilous position .......<a href="#link169">169</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins in the Grand Canyon region ......<a href="#link107">107</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes in the valley of the Little + Colorado + </p> + <p> + and vicinity ..........<a href="#link49">49</a>,53 + </p> + <p> + Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes on San Francisco Plateau <a + href="#link40">40</a> + </p> + <p> + Ruins of cavate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians .<a href="#link56">56</a> + </p> + <p> + Scenic features of the Canyon land .......<a href="#link32">32</a> + </p> + <p> + Shivwits chief talks ..........<a href="#link321">321</a>-323 + </p> + <p> + Shoshone Indians, home and life of the . . . . . . . . .71 + </p> + <p> + Shumopavi, a visit to .........<a href="#link335">335</a> + </p> + <p> + Shumopavi, location and language of ......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Shupaulovi, a visit to .........<a href="#link338">338</a>-242 + </p> + <p> + Shupaulovi, location and language of ......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Sichumovi, a visit to ..........<a href="#link345">345</a> + </p> + <p> + Sichumovi, location and language of ......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + Snake dance at Walpi .........<a href="#link346">346</a>-347 + </p> + <p> + Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys .......<a href="#link303">303</a>-311 + </p> + <p> + Spanish expeditions and conquerors in the Southwest ..<a href="#link260">260</a> + </p> + <p> + Starting from Green River City for the Canyon . . . . . . .119 + </p> + <p> + Stories, mythic, of the Ute and other Indians ....<a href="#link65">65</a>,107 + </p> + <p> + Storm below the beholder .........<a href="#link98">98</a> + </p> + <p> + Sumner, J. C., a member of the expedition ....... v, 120 + </p> + <p> + Thousand Wells ...........<a href="#link334">334</a> + </p> + <p> + Timber region of Arizona, description of the .....<a href="#link39">39</a> + </p> + <p> + Trumbull. Mount, ascent of ........<a href="#link324">324</a>-325 + </p> + <p> + Tusayan, the seven pueblos of .......<a href="#link49">49</a>,335 + </p> + <p> + Tusayan, tribes of, government among the .....<a href="#link356">356</a>-364 + </p> + <p> + Tusayan, two weeks spent at .......<a href="#link335">335</a> + </p> + <p> + Uinta Indians, home of the ........<a href="#link75">75</a> + </p> + <p> + Ute Indians, home, life, dress, etc., of the . . . . . . 27,62,84,104 + </p> + <p> + Volcanic dust, enormous amount of, on Tewan Plateau ..<a href="#link55">55</a> + </p> + <p> + Walpi, a visit to ...........<a href="#link345">345</a> + </p> + <p> + Walpi, location and language of .......<a href="#link49">49</a> + </p> + <p> + War and pestilence causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113 + </p> + <p> + Yellowstone Park, the land of geyser wonders ....<a href="#link67">67</a> + </p> + <p> + Yuma Indians, former home and life of the ....<a href="#link27">27</a> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Canyons of the Colorado, by J. 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