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diff --git a/old/7osft10.txt b/old/7osft10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..41e2da7 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/7osft10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,16325 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL, by COLONEL HENRY INMAN + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL + +Author: COLONEL HENRY INMAN + +Release Date: April, 2005 [EBook #7984] +[This file was first posted on June 9, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + + + + +Etext Edition edited by MICHAEL S. OVERTON + + + +THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL + +The Story of a Great Highway + +By COLONEL HENRY INMAN + +Late Assistant Quartermaster, United States Army + + +With a Preface by W. F. "BUFFALO BILL" CODY + + + + + + + +PREFACE. + + + +As we look into the open fire for our fancies, so we are apt to +study the dim past for the wonderful and sublime, forgetful of the +fact that the present is a constant romance, and that the happenings +of to-day which we count of little importance are sure to startle +somebody in the future, and engage the pen of the historian, +philosopher, and poet. + +Accustomed as we are to think of the vast steppes of Russia and +Siberia as alike strange and boundless, and to deal with the unkown +interior of Africa as an impenetrable mystery, we lose sight of a +locality in our own country that once surpassed all these in +virgin grandeur, in majestic solitude, and in all the attributes +of a tremendous wilderness. + +The story of the Old Santa Fe Trail, so truthfully recalled by +Colonel Henry Inman, ex-officer of the old Regular Army, in these pages, +is a most thrilling one. The vast area through which the famous +highway ran is still imperfectly known to most people as "The West"; +a designation once appropriate, but hardly applicable now; for in +these days of easy communication the real trail region is not +so far removed from New York as Buffalo was seventy years ago. + +At the commencement of the "commerce of the prairies," in the early +portion of the century, the Old Trail was the arena of almost constant +sanguinary struggles between the wily nomads of the desert and the +hardy white pioneers, whose eventful lives made the civilization +of the vast interior region of our continent possible. Their daring +compelled its development, which has resulted in the genesis of +great states and large cities. Their hardships gave birth to the +American homestead; their determined will was the factor of possible +achievements, the most remarkable and important of modern times. + +When the famous highway was established across the great plains +as a line of communication to the shores of the blue Pacific, +the only method of travel was by the slow freight caravan drawn by +patient oxen, or the lumbering stage coach with its complement of +four or six mules. There was ever to be feared an attack by those +devils of the desert, the Cheyennes, Comanches, and Kiowas. +Along its whole route the remains of men, animals, and the wrecks of +camps and wagons, told a story of suffering, robbery, and outrage +more impressive than any language. Now the tourist or business man +makes the journey in palace cars, and there is nothing to remind him +of the danger or desolation of Border days; on every hand are the +evidences of a powerful and advanced civilization. + +It is fortunate that one is left to tell some of its story who was +a living actor and had personal knowledge of many of the thrilling +scenes that were enacted along the line of the great route. +He was familiar with all the famous men, both white and savage, +whose lives have made the story of the Trail, his own sojourn on +the plains and in the Rocky Mountains extending over a period of +nearly forty years. + +The Old Trail has more than common interest for me, and I gladly +record here my indorsement of the faithful record, compiled by a +brave soldier, old comrade, and friend. + +W. F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill." + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + +INTRODUCTION. +The First Europeans who traversed the Great Highway--Alvar Nunez +Cabeca de Vaca--Hernando de Soto, and Francisco Vasquez de Coronado-- +Spanish Expedition from Santa Fe eastwardly--Escape of the Sole Survivors. + +CHAPTER I. +UNDER THE SPANIARDS. +Quaint Descriptions of Old Santa Fe--The Famous Adobe Palace-- +Santa Fe the Oldest Town in the United States--First Settlement-- +Onate's Conquest--Revolt of the Pueblo Indians--Under Pueblo Rule +--Cruelties of the Victors--The Santa Fe of To-day--Arrival of +a Caravan--The Railroad reaches the Town--Amusements--A Fandango. + +CHAPTER II. +LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. +The Beginning of the Santa Fe Trade--La Lande and Pursley, +the First Americans to cross the Plains--Pursley's Patriotism-- +Captain Ezekiel Williams--A Hungry Bear--A Midnight Alarm. + +CHAPTER III. +EARLY TRADERS. +Captain Becknell's Expedition--Sufferings from Thirst--Auguste +Chouteau--Imprisonment of McKnight and Chambers--The Caches-- +Stampeding Mules--First Military Escort across the Plains-- +Captain Zebulon Pike--Sublette and Smith--Murder of McNess-- +Indians not the Aggressors. + +CHAPTER IV. +TRAINS AND PACKERS. +The Atajo or Pack-train of Mules--Mexican Nomenclature of +Paraphernalia--Manner of Packing--The "Bell-mare"--Toughness of +Mules among Precipices--The Caravan of Wagons--Largest Wagon-train +ever on the Plains--Stampedes--Duties of Packers en route--Order of +Travelling with Pack-train--Chris. Gilson, the Famous Packer. + +CHAPTER V. +FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. +Narrative of Bryant's Party of Santa Fe Traders--The First Wagon +Expedition across the Plains--A Thrilling Story of Hardship and +Physical Suffering--Terrible Fight with the Comanches--Abandonment +of the Wagons--On Foot over the Trail--Burial of their Specie +on an Island in the Arkansas--Narrative of William Y. Hitt, +one of the Party--His Encounter with a Comanche--The First Escort +of United States Troops to the Annual Caravan of Santa Fe Traders, +in 1829--Major Bennett Riley's Official Report to the War Department +--Journal of Captain Cooke. + +CHAPTER VI. +A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. +The Expedition of Texans to the Old Santa Fe Trail for the Purpose +of robbing Mexican Traders--Innocent Citizens of the United States +suspected, arrested, and carried to the Capital of New Mexico-- +Colonel Snively's Force--Warfield's Sacking of the Village of Mora +--Attack upon a Mexican Caravan--Kit Carson in the Fight-- +A Crime of over Sixty Years Ago--A Romance of the Tragedy. + +CHAPTER VII. +MEXICO DECLARES WAR. +Mexico declares War against the United States--Congress authorizes +the President to call for Fifty Thousand Volunteers--Organization of +the Army of the West--Phenomenon seen by Santa Fe Traders in the Sky +--First Death on the March of the Army across the Plains--Men in +a Starving Condition--Another Death--Burial near Pawnee Rock-- +Trouble at Pawnee Fork--Major Howard's Report. + +CHAPTER VIII. +THE VALLEY OF TAOS. +The Valley of Taos--First White Settler--Rebellion of the Mexicans +--A Woman discovers and informs Colonel Price of the Conspiracy-- +Assassination of Governor Bent--Horrible Butcheries by the Pueblos +and Mexicans--Turley's Ranch--Murder of Harwood and Markhead-- +Anecdote of Sir William Drummond Stewart--Fight at the Mills-- +Battle of the Pueblo of Taos--Trial of the Insurrectionists-- +Baptiste, the Juror--Execution of the Rebels. + +CHAPTER IX. +FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. +Independence--Opening of Navigation on the Mississippi--Effect of +Water Transportation upon the Trade--Establishment of Trading-forts-- +Market for Cattle and Mules--Wages paid Teamsters on the Trail-- +An Enterprising Coloured Man--Increase of the Trade at the Close of +the Mexican War--Heavy Emigration to California--First Overland Mail +--How the Guards were armed--Passenger Coaches to Santa Fe-- +Stage-coaching Days. + +CHAPTER X. +CHARLES BENT. +The Tragedy in the Canyon of the Canadian--Dragoons follow the Trail +of the Savages--Kit Carson, Dick Wooton, and Tom Tobin the Scouts +of the Expedition--More than a Hundred of the Savages killed-- +Murder of Mrs. White--White Wolf--Lieutenant Bell's Singular Duel +with the Noted Savage--Old Wolf--Satank--Murder of Peacock-- +Satanta made Chief--Kicking Bird--His Tragic Death--Charles Bent, +the Half-breed Renegade--His Terrible Acts--His Death. + +CHAPTER XI. +LA GLORIETA. +Neglect of New Mexico by the United States Government--Intended +Conquest of the Province--Conspiracy of Southern Leaders-- +Surrender by General Twiggs to the Confederate Government of the +Military Posts and Munitions of War under his Command--Only One +Soldier out of Two Thousand deserts to the Enemy--Organization +of Volunteers for the Defence of Colorado and New Mexico-- +Battle of La Glorieta--Rout of the Rebels. + +CHAPTER XII. +THE BUFFALO. +The Ancient Range of the Buffalo--Number slaughtered in Thirteen Years +for their Robes alone--Buffalo Bones--Trains stopped by Vast Herds-- +Custom of Old Hunters when caught in a Blizzard--Anecdotes of +Buffalo Hunting--Kit Carson's Dilemma--Experience of Two of Fremont's +Hunters--Wounded Buffalo Bull--O'Neil's Laughable Experience-- +Organization of a Herd of Buffalo--Stampedes--Thrilling Escapes. + +CHAPTER XIII. +INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. +Big Timbers--Winter Camp of the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes-- +Savage Amusements--A Cheyenne Lodge--Indian Etiquette--Treatment +of Children--The Pipe of the North American Savage--Dog Feast-- +Marriage Ceremony. + +CHAPTER XIV. +TRAPPERS. +The Old Pueblo Fort--A Celebrated Rendezvous--Its Inhabitants-- +"Fontaine qui Bouille"--The Legend of its Origin--The Trappers +of the Old Santa Fe Trail and the Rocky Mountains--Beaver Trapping-- +Habits of the Beaver--Improvidence of the Old Trappers--Trading with +"Poor Lo"--The Strange Experience of a Veteran Trapper on the +Santa Fe Trail--Romantic Marriage of Baptiste Brown. + +CHAPTER XV. +UNCLE JOHN SMITH. +Uncle John Smith--A Famous Trapper, Guide, and Interpreter-- +His Marriage with a Cheyenne Squaw--An Autocrat among the People +of the Plains and Mountains--The Mexicans held him in Great Dread-- +His Wonderful Resemblance to President Andrew Johnson--Interpreter +and Guide on General Sheridan's Winter Expedition against the +Allied Plains Tribes--His Stories around the Camp-fire. + +CHAPTER XVI. +KIT CARSON. +Famous Men of the Old Santa Fe Trail--Kit Carson--Jim Bridger-- +James P. Beckwourth--Uncle Dick Wooton--Jim Baker--Lucien B. +Maxwell--Old Bill Williams--Tom Tobin--James Hobbs. + +CHAPTER XVII. +UNCLE DICK WOOTON. +Uncle Dick Wooton--Lucien B. Maxwell--Old Bill Williams--Tom Tobin-- +James Hobbs--William F. Cody (Buffalo Bill). + +CHAPTER XVIII. +MAXWELL'S RANCH. +Maxwell's Ranch on the Old Santa Fe Trail--A Picturesque Region-- +Maxwell a Trapper and Hunter with the American Fur Company-- +Lifelong Comrade of Kit Carson--Sources of Maxwell's Wealth-- +Fond of Horse-racing--A Disastrous Fourth-of-July Celebration +--Anecdote of Kit Carson--Discovery of Gold on the Ranch-- +The Big Ditch--Issuing Beef to the Ute Indians--Camping out with +Maxwell and Carson--A Story of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + +CHAPTER XIX. +BENT'S FORTS. +The Bents' Several Forts--Famous Trading-posts--Rendezvous of the +Rocky Mountain Trappers--Castle William and Incidents connected +with the Noted Place--Bartering with the Indians--Annual Feast +of Arapahoes and Cheyennes--Old Wolf's First Visit to Bent's Fort-- +The Surprise of the Savages--Stories told by Celebrated Frontiersmen +around the Camp-fire. + +CHAPTER XX. +PAWNEE ROCK. +Pawnee Rock--A Debatable Region of the Indian Tribes--The most +Dangerous Point on the Central Plains in the Days of the Early +Santa Fe Trade--Received its Name in a Baptism of Blood-- +Battle-ground of the Pawnees and Cheyennes--Old Graves on the +Summit of the Rock--Kit Carson's First Fight at the Rock with +the Pawnees--Kills his Mule by Mistake--Colonel St. Vrain's +Brilliant Charge--Defeat of the Savages--The Trappers' Terrible +Battle with the Pawnees--The Massacre at Cow Creek. + +CHAPTER XXI. +FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. +Wagon Mound--John L. Hatcher's Thrilling Adventure with Old Wolf, +the War-chief of the Comanches--Incidents on the Trail--A Boy +Bugler's Happy Escape from the Savages at Fort Union--A Drunken +Stage-driver--How an Officer of the Quartermaster's Department +at Washington succeeded in starting the Military Freight Caravans +a Month Earlier than the Usual Time--How John Chisholm fooled +the Stage-robbers--The Story of Half a Plug of Tobacco. + +CHAPTER XXII. +A DESPERATE RIDE. +Solitary Graves along the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail--The Walnut +Crossing--Fort Zarah--The Graves on Hon. D. Heizer's Ranch on +the Walnut--Troops stationed at the Crossing of the Walnut-- +A Terrible Five Miles--The Cavalry Recruit's Last Ride. + +CHAPTER XXIII. +HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. +General Hancock's Expedition against the Plains Indians--Terrible +Snow-storm at Fort Larned--Meeting with the Chiefs of the +Dog-Soldiers--Bull Bear's Diplomacy--Meeting of the United States +Troops and the Savages in Line of Battle--Custer's Night Experience-- +The Surgeon and Dog Stew--Destruction of the Village by Fire-- +General Sully's Fight with the Kiowas, Comanches, and Arapahoes-- +Finding the Skeletons of the Unfortunate Men--The Savages' Report +of the Affair. + +CHAPTER XXIV. +INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. +Scenery on the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail--The Great Plains-- +The Arkansas Valley--Over the Rocky Mountains into New Mexico-- +The Raton Range--The Spanish Peaks--Simpson's Rest--Fisher's Peak +--Raton Peak--Snowy Range--Pike's Peak--Raton Creek--The Invasion +of the Railroad--The Old Santa Fe Trail a Thing of the Past. + +FOOTNOTES. + +PUBLICATION INFORMATION. + + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + + +For more than three centuries, a period extending from 1541 to 1851, +historians believed, and so announced to the literary world, +that Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, the celebrated Spanish explorer, +in his search for the Seven Cities of Cibola and the Kingdom of Quivira, +was the first European to travel over the intra-continent region +of North America. In the last year above referred to, however, +Buckingham Smith, of Florida, an eminent Spanish scholar, and secretary +of the American Legation at Madrid, discovered among the archives +of State the _Narrative of Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_, where for +nearly three hundred years it had lain, musty and begrimed with the +dust of ages, an unread and forgotten story of suffering that has no +parallel in fiction. The distinguished antiquarian unearthed the +valuable manuscript from its grave of oblivion, translated it into +English, and gave it to the world of letters; conferring honour upon +whom honour was due, and tearing the laurels from such grand voyageurs +and discoverers as De Soto, La Salle, and Coronado, upon whose heads +history had erroneously placed them, through no fault, or arrogance, +however, of their own. + +Cabeca, beyond any question, travelled the Old Santa Fe Trail for +many miles, crossed it where it intersects the Arkansas River, +a little east of Fort William or Bent's Fort, and went thence on +into New Mexico, following the famous highway as far, at least, +as Las Vegas. Cabeca's march antedated that of Coronado by five years. +To this intrepid Spanish voyageur we are indebted for the first +description of the American bison, or buffalo as the animal is +erroneously called. While not so quaint in its language as that +of Coronado's historian, a lustrum later, the statement cannot be +perverted into any other reference than to the great shaggy monsters +of the plains:-- + + Cattle come as far as this. I have seen them three times + and eaten of their meat. I think they are about the size + of those of Spain. They have small horns like the cows + of Morocco, and the hair very long and flocky, like that + of the merino; some are light brown, others black. To my + judgment the flesh is finer and fatter than that of this + country. The Indians make blankets of the hides of those + not full grown. They range over a district of more than + four hundred leagues, and in the whole extent of plain over + which they run the people that inhabit near there descend + and live on them and scatter a vast many skins throughout + the country. + +It will be remembered by the student of the early history of +our country, that when Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca, a follower of the +unfortunate Panphilo de Narvaez, and who had been long thought dead, +landed in Spain, he gave such glowing accounts of Florida[1] and the +neighbouring regions that the whole kingdom was in a ferment, +and many a heart panted to emigrate to a land where the fruits +were perennial, and where it was thought flowed the fabled +fountain of youth. + +Three expeditions to that country had already been tried: +one undertaken in 1512, by Juan Ponce de Leon, formerly a companion +of Columbus; another in 1520, by Vasquez de Allyon; and another by +Panphilo de Narvaez. All of these had signally failed, the bones +of most of the leaders and their followers having been left to bleach +upon the soil they had come to conquer. + +The unfortunate issue of the former expeditions did not operate as +a check upon the aspiring mind of De Soto, but made him the more +anxious to spring as an actor into the arena which had been the scene +of the discomfiture and death of the hardy chivalry of the kingdom. +He sought an audience of the emperor, and the latter, after hearing +De Soto's proposition that, "he could conquer the country known as +Florida at his own expense," conferred upon him the title of +"Governor of Cuba and Florida." + +On the 6th of April, 1538, De Soto sailed from Spain with an armament +of ten vessels and a splendidly equipped army of nine hundred chosen men, +amidst the roar of cannons and the inspiring strains of martial music. + +It is not within the province of this work to follow De Soto through +all his terrible trials on the North American continent; the wonderful +story may be found in every well-organized library. It is recorded, +however, that some time during the year 1542, his decimated army, +then under the command of Luis de Moscoso, De Soto having died +the previous May, was camped on the Arkansas River, far upward towards +what is now Kansas. It was this command, too, of the unfortunate +but cruel De Soto, that saw the Rocky Mountains from the east. +The chronicler of the disastrous journey towards the mountains says: +"The entire route became a trail of fire and blood," as they +had many a desperate struggle with the savages of the plains, +who "were of gigantic stucture, and fought with heavy strong clubs, +with the desperation of demons. Such was their tremendous strength, +that one of these warriors was a match for a Spanish soldier, +though mounted on a horse, armed with a sword and cased in armour!" + +Moscoso was searching for Coronado, and he was one of the most humane +of all the officers of De Soto's command, for he evidently bent +every energy to extricate his men from the dreadful environments +of their situation; despairing of reaching the Gulf by the Mississippi, +he struck westward, hoping, as Cabeca de Vaca had done, to arrive +in Mexico overland. + +A period of six months was consumed in Moscoso's march towards the +Rocky Mountains, but he failed to find Coronado, who at that time +was camped near where Wichita, Kansas, is located; according to his +historian, "at the junction of the St. Peter and St. Paul" (the Big +and Little Arkansas?). That point was the place of separation +between Coronado and a number of his followers; many returning +to Mexico, while the undaunted commander, with as many as he could +induce to accompany him, continued easterly, still in search of +the mythical Quivira. + +How far westward Moscoso travelled cannot be determined accurately, +but that his route extended up the valley of the Arkansas for more than +three hundred miles, into what is now Kansas, is proved by the statement +of his historian, who says: "They saw great chains of mountains and +forests to the west, which they understood were uninhabited." + +Another strong confirmatory fact is, that, in 1884, a group of mounds +was discovered in McPherson County, Kansas, which were thoroughly +explored by the professors of Bethany College, Lindsborg, who found, +among other interesting relics, a piece of chain-mail armour, +of hard steel; undoubtedly part of the equipment of a Spanish soldier +either of the command of Cabeca de Vaca, De Soto, or of Coronado. +The probability is, that it was worn by one of De Soto's unfortunate men, +as neither Panphilo de Narvaez, De Vaca, or Coronado experienced any +difficulty with the savages of the great plains, because those leaders +were humane and treated the Indians kindly, in contradistinction to +De Soto, who was the most inhuman of all the early Spanish explorers. +He was of the same school as Pizarro and Cortez; possessing their +daring valour, their contempt of danger, and their tenacity of purpose, +as well as their cruelty and avarice. De Soto made treaties with +the Indians which he constantly violated, and murdered the misguided +creatures without mercy. During the retreat of Moscoso's weakened +command down the Arkansas River, the Hot Springs of Arkansas +were discovered. His historian writes: + + And when they saw the foaming fountain, they thought + it was the long-searched-for "Fountain of Youth," reported + by fame to exist somewhere in the country, but ten of the + soldiers dying from excessive drinking, they were soon + convinced of their error. + +After these intrepid explorers the restless Coronado appears on +the Old Trail. In the third volume of Hakluyt's _Voyages_, published +in London, 1600, Coronado's historian thus describes the great plains +of Kansas and Colorado, the bison, and a tornado:-- + + From Cicuye they went to Quivira, which after their account + is almost three hundred leagues distant, through mighty + plains, and sandy heaths so smooth and wearisome, and bare + of wood that they made heaps of ox-dung, for want of stones + and trees, that they might not lose themselves at their + return: for three horses were lost on that plain, and one + Spaniard which went from his company on hunting. . . . + All that way of plains are as full of crooked-back oxen as + the mountain Serrena in Spain is of sheep, but there is + no such people as keep those cattle. . . . They were a + great succour for the hunger and the want of bread, which + our party stood in need of. . . . + + One day it rained in that plain a great shower of hail, + as big as oranges, which caused many tears, weakness + and bowes. + + These oxen are of the bigness and colour of our bulls, + but their bones are not so great. They have a great bunch + upon their fore-shoulder, and more hair on their fore part + than on their hinder part, and it is like wool. They have + as it were an horse-mane upon their backbone, and much hair + and very long from their knees downward. They have great + tufts of hair hanging down on their foreheads, and it + seemeth they have beards because of the great store of hair + hanging down at their chins and throats. The males have + very long tails, and a great knob or flock at the end, + so that in some respects they resemble the lion, and in some + other the camel. They push with their horns, they run, + they overtake and kill an horse when they are in their + rage and anger. Finally it is a foul and fierce beast of + countenance and form of body. The horses fled from them, + either because of their deformed shape, or else because + they had never before seen them. + +"The number," continues the historian, "was incredible." When the +soldiers, in their excitement for the chase, began to kill them, +they rushed together in such masses that hundreds were literally +crushed to death. At one place there was a great ravine; they jumped +into it in their efforts to escape from the hunters, and so terrible +was the slaughter as they tumbled over the precipice that the +depression was completely filled up, their carcasses forming a bridge, +over which the remainder passed with ease. + +The next recorded expedition across the plains via the Old Trail +was also by the Spaniards from Santa Fe, eastwardly, in the year 1716, +"for the purpose of establishing a Military Post in the Upper +Mississippi Valley as a barrier to the further encroachments of +the French in that direction." An account of this expedition is found +in _Memoires Historiques sur La Louisiane_, published in Paris in 1858, +but never translated in its entirety. The author, Lieutenant Dumont +of the French army, was one of a party ascending the Arkansas River +in search of a supposed mass of emeralds. The narrative relates: + There was more than half a league to traverse to gain the + other bank of the river, and our people were no sooner + arrived than they found there a party of Missouris, sent to + M. de la Harpe by M. de Bienville, then commandant general + at Louisiana, to deliver orders to the former. Consequently + they gave the signal order, and our other two canoes having + crossed the river, the savages gave to our commandant the + letters of M. de Bienville, in which he informed him that + the Spaniards had sent out a detachment from New Mexico + to go to the Missouris and to establish a post in that + country. . . . The success of this expedition was very + calamitous to the Spaniards. Their caravan was composed of + fifteen hundred people, men, women and soldiers, having + with them a Jacobin for a chaplain, and bringing also a + great number of horses and cattle, according to the custom + of that nation to forget nothing that might be necessary for + a settlement. Their design was to destroy the Missouris, + and to seize upon their country, and with this intention + they had resolved to go first to the Osages, a neighbouring + nation, enemies of the Missouris, to form an alliance with + them, and to engage them in their behalf for the execution + of their plan. Perhaps the map which guided them was not + correct, or they had not exactly followed it, for it chanced + that instead of going to the Osages whom they sought, they + fell, without knowing it, into a village of the Missouris, + where the Spanish commander, presenting himself to the great + chief and offering him the calumet, made him understand + through an interpreter, believing himself to be speaking + to the Osage chief, that they were enemies of the Missouris, + that they had come to destroy them, to make their women + and children slaves and to take possession of their country. + He begged the chief to be willing to form an alliance + with them, against a nation whom the Osages regarded as + their enemy, and to second them in this enterprise, promising + to recompense them liberally for the service rendered, + and always to be their friend in the future. Upon this + discourse the Missouri chief understood perfectly well + the mistake. He dissimulated and thanked the Spaniard for + the confidence he had in his nation; he consented to form + an alliance with them against the Missouris, and to join + them with all his forces to destroy them; but he represented + that his people were not armed, and that they dared not + expose themselves without arms in such an enterprise. + Deceived by so favourable a reception, the Spaniards fell + into the trap laid for them. They received with due + ceremony, in the little camp they had formed on their + arrival, the calumet which the great chief of the Missouris + presented to the Spanish commander. The alliance for war + was sworn to by both parties; they agreed upon a day for + the execution of the plan which they meditated, and the + Spaniards furnished the savages with all the munitions which + they thought were needed. After the ceremony both parties + gave themselves up equally to joy and good cheer. At the + end of three days two thousand savages were armed and in + the midst of dances and amusements; each party thought + nothing but the execution of its design. It was the evening + before their departure upon their concerted expedition, + and the Spaniards had retired to their camps as usual, + when the great chief of the Missouris, having assembled + his warriors, declared to them his intentions and exhorted + them to deal treacherously with these strangers who were come + to their home only with the design of destroying them. + At daybreak the savages divided into several bands, fell on + the Spaniards, who expected nothing of the kind, and in + less than a quarter of an hour all the caravan were murdered. + No one escaped from the massacre except the chaplain, whom + the barbarians saved because of his dress; at the same time + they took possession of all the merchandise and other + effects which they found in their camp. The Spaniards had + brought with them, as I have said, a certain number of horses, + and as the savages were ignorant of the use of these animals, + they took pleasure in making the Jacobin whom they had saved, + and who had become their slave, mount them. The priest gave + them this amusement almost every day for the five or six + months that he remained with them in their village, without + any of them daring to imitate him. Tired at last of his + slavery, and regarding the lack of daring in these barbarians + as a means of Providence to regain his liberty, he made + secretly all the provisions possible for him to make, + and which he believed necessary to his plan. At last, + having chosen the best horse and having mounted him, + after performing several of his exploits before the savages, + and while they were all occupied with his manoeuvres, + he spurred up and disappeared from their sight, taking the + road to Mexico, where doubtless he arrived. + +Charlevoix,[2] who travelled from Quebec to New Orleans in the +year 1721, says in one of his letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres, +dated at Kaskaskia, July 21, 1721: + + About two years ago some Spaniards, coming, as they say, + from New Mexico, and intending to get into the country of + the Illinois and drive the French from thence, whom they + saw with extreme jealousy approach so near the Missouri, + came down the river and attacked two villages of the + Octoyas,[3] who are the allies of the Ayouez,[4] and from + whom it is said also that they are derived. As the savages + had no firearms and were surprised, the Spaniards made an + easy conquest and killed a great many of them. A third + village, which was not far off from the other two, being + informed of what had passed, and not doubting but these + conquerors would attack them, laid an ambush into which + the Spaniards heedlessly fell. Others say that the savages, + having heard that the enemy were almost all drunk and + fast asleep, fell upon them in the night. However it was, + it is certain the greater part of them were killed. + There were in the party two almoners; one of them was + killed directly and the other got away to the Missouris, + who took him prisoner, but he escaped them very dexterously. + He had a very fine horse and the Missouris took pleasure + in seeing him ride it, which he did very skilfully. He took + advantage of their curiosity to get out of their hands. + + One day as he was prancing and exercising his horse before + them, he got a little distance from them insensibly; then + suddenly clapping spurs to his horse he was soon out of sight. + +The Missouri Indians once occupied all the territory near the junction +of the Kaw and Missouri rivers, but they were constantly decimated +by the continual depredations of their warlike and feudal enemies, +the Pawnees and Sioux, and at last fell a prey to that dreadful +scourge, the small-pox, which swept them off by thousands. +The remnant of the once powerful tribe then found shelter and a home +with the Otoes, finally becoming merged in that tribe. + + + + +CHAPTER I. +UNDER THE SPANIARDS. + + + +The Santa Fe of the purely Mexican occupation, long before the days +of New Mexico's acquisition by the United States, and the Santa Fe of +to-day are so widely in contrast that it is difficult to find language +in which to convey to the reader the story of the phenomenal change. +To those who are acquainted with the charming place as it is now, +with its refined and cultured society, I cannot do better, perhaps, +in attempting to show what it was under the old regime, than to quote +what some traveller in the early 30's wrote for a New York leading +newspaper, in regard to it. As far as my own observation of the +place is concerned, when I first visited it a great many years ago, +the writer of the communication whose views I now present was not +incorrect in his judgment. He said:-- + + To dignify such a collection of mud hovels with the name + of "City," would be a keen irony; not greater, however, + than is the name with which its Padres have baptized it. + To call a place with its moral character, a very Sodom + in iniquity, "Holy Faith," is scarcely a venial sin; + it deserves Purgatory at least. Its health is the best + in the country, which is the first, second and third + recommendation of New Mexico by its greatest admirers. + It is a small town of about two thousand inhabitants, + crowded up against the mountains, at the end of a little + valley through which runs a mountain stream of the same + name tributary to the Rio Grande. It has a public square + in the centre, a Palace and an Alameda; as all Spanish + Roman Catholic towns have. It is true its Plaza, or + Public Square, is unfenced and uncared for, without trees + or grass. The Palace is nothing more than the biggest + mud-house in the town, and the churches, too, are unsightly + piles of the same material, and the Alameda[5] is on top of + a sand hill. Yet they have in Santa Fe all the parts and + parcels of a regal city and a Bishopric. The Bishop has a + palace also; the only two-storied shingle-roofed house in + the place. There is one public house set apart for eating, + drinking and gambling; for be it known that gambling is here + authorized by law. Hence it is as respectable to keep a + gambling house, as it is to sell rum in New Jersey; it is + a lawful business, and being lawful, and consequently + respectable and a man's right, why should not men gamble? + And gamble they do. The Generals and the Colonels and + the Majors and the Captains gamble. The judges and the + lawyers and the doctors and the priests gamble; and there + are gentlemen gamblers by profession! You will see squads + of poor peons daily, men, women and boys, sitting on the + ground around a deck of cards in the Public Square, gambling + for the smallest stakes. + + The stores of the town generally front on the Public Square. + Of these there are a dozen, more or less, of respectable + size, and most of them are kept by others than Mexicans. + The business of the place is considerable, many of the + merchants here being wholesale dealers for the vast + territory tributary. It is supposed that about $750,000 + worth of goods will be brought to this place this year, and + there may be $250,000 worth imported directly from the + United States. + + In the money market there is nothing less than a five-cent + piece. You cannot purchase anything for less than five cents. + In trade they reckon ten cents the eighth of a dollar. + If you purchase nominally a dollar's worth of an article, + you can pay for it in eight ten-cent pieces; and if you + give a dollar, you receive no change. In changing a dollar + for you, you would get but eight ten-cent pieces for it. + + Yet, although dirty and unkempt, and swarming with hungry + dogs, it has the charm of foreign flavour, and like + San Antonio retains some portion of the grace which long + lingered about it, if indeed it ever forsakes the spot + where Spain held rule for centuries, and the soft syllables + of the Spanish language are yet heard. + +Such was a description of the "drowsy old town" of Santa Fe, +sixty-five years ago. Fifteen years later Major W. H. Emory, of +the United States army, writes of it as follows:[6] + + The population of Santa Fe is from two to four thousand, + and the inhabitants are, it is said, the poorest people + of any town in the Province. The houses are mud bricks, + in the Spanish style, generally of one story, and built + on a square. The interior of the square is an open court, + and the principal rooms open into it. They are forbidding + in appearance from the outside, but nothing can exceed + the comfort and convenience of the interior. The thick + walls make them cool in summer and warm in winter. + + The better class of people are provided with excellent beds, + but the poorer class sleep on untanned skins. The women + here, as in many other parts of the world, appear to be + much before the men in refinements, intelligence, and + knowledge of the useful arts. The higher class dress like + the American women, except, instead of a bonnet, they wear + a scarf over their head, called a reboso. This they wear + asleep or awake, in the house or abroad. The dress of the + lower classes of women is a simple petticoat, with arms and + shoulders bare, except what may chance to be covered by + the reboso. + + The men who have means to do so dress after our fashion; + but by far the greater number, when they dress at all, + wear leather breeches, tight around the hips and open from + the knee down; shirt and blanket take the place of our + coat and vest. + + The city is dependent on the distant hills for wood, and + at all hours of the day may be seen jackasses passing laden + with wood, which is sold at two bits, twenty-five cents, + the load. These are the most diminutive animals, and + usually mounted from behind, after the fashion of leap-frog. + The jackass is the only animal that can be subsisted in + this barren neighbourhood without great expense; our horses + are all sent to a distance of twelve, fifteen, and thirty + miles for grass. + +I have interpolated these two somewhat similar descriptions of +Santa Fe written in that long ago when New Mexico was almost as +little known as the topography of the planet Mars, so that the +intelligent visitor of to-day may appreciate the wonderful changes +which American thrift, and that powerful civilizer, the locomotive, +have wrought in a very few years, yet it still, as one of the +foregoing writers has well said, "has the charm of foreign flavour, +and the soft syllables of the Spanish language are still heard." + +The most positive exception must be taken to the statement of the +first-quoted writer in relation to the Palace, of which he says +"It is nothing more than the biggest mud-house in the town." +Now this "Palacio del Gobernador," as the old building was called +by the Spanish, was erected at a very early day. It was the +long-established seat of power when Penalosa confined the chief +inquisitor within its walls in 1663, and when the Pueblo authorities +took possession of it as the citadel of their central authority, +in 1681. + +The old building cannot well be overlooked by the most careless +visitor to the quaint town; it is a long, low structure, taking up +the greater part of one side of the Plaza, round which runs a +colonnade supported by pillars of rough pine. In this once leaky +old Palace were kept, or rather neglected, the archives of the +Territory until the American residents, appreciating the importance +of preserving precious documents containing so much of interest +to the student of history and the antiquarian, enlisted themselves +enthusiastically in the good cause, and have rescued from oblivion +the annals of a relatively remote civilization, which, but for their +forethought, would have perished from the face of the earth as +completely as have the written records of that wonderful region in +Central America, whose gigantic ruins alone remain to tell us of +what was a highly cultured order of architecture in past ages, +and of a people whose intelligence was comparable to the style +of the dwellings in which they lived. + +The old adobe Palace is in itself a volume whose pages are filled +with pathos and stirring events. It has been the scene and witness +of incidents the recital of which would to us to-day seem incredible. +An old friend, once governor of New Mexico and now dead, thus +graphically spoke of the venerable building:[7] + + In it lived and ruled the Spanish captain general, so remote + and inaccessible from the viceroyalty at Mexico that he was + in effect a king, nominally accountable to the viceroy, + but practically beyond his reach and control and wholly + irresponsible to the people. Equally independent for the + same reason were the Mexican governors. Here met all the + provincial, territorial, departmental, and other legislative + bodies that have ever assembled at the capital of New Mexico. + Here have been planned all the Indian wars and measures + for defence against foreign invasion, including, as the + most noteworthy, the Navajo war of 1823, the Texan invasion + of 1842, the American of 1846, and the Confederate of 1862. + Within its walls was imprisoned, in 1809, the American + explorer Zebulon M. Pike, and innumerable state prisoners + before and since; and many a sentence of death has been + pronounced therein and the accused forthwith led away and + shot at the dictum of the man at the Palace. It has been + from time immemorial the government house with all its + branches annexed. It was such on the Fourth of July, 1776, + when the American Congress at Independence Hall in + Philadelphia proclaimed liberty throughout all the land, + not then, but now embracing it. Indeed, this old edifice + has a history. And as the history of Santa Fe is the + history of New Mexico, so is the history of the Palace + the history of Santa Fe. + +The Palace was the only building having glazed windows. At one end +was the government printing office, and at the other, the guard-house +and prison. Fearful stories were connected with the prison. +Edwards[8] says that he found, on examining the walls of the +small rooms, locks of human hair stuffed into holes, with rude +crosses drawn over them. + +Fronting the Palace, on the south side of the Plaza, stood the +remains of the Capilla de los Soldados, or Military Chapel. +The real name of the church was "Our Lady of Light." It was said +to be the richest church in the Province, but had not been in use +for a number of years, and the roof had fallen in, allowing the +elements to complete the work of destruction. On each side of the +altar was the remains of fine carving, and a weather-beaten picture +above gave evidence of having been a beautiful painting. Over the +door was a large oblong slab of freestone, elaborately carved, +representing "Our Lady of Light" rescuing a human being from the +jaws of Satan. A large tablet, beautifully executed in relief, +stood behind the altar, representing various saints, with an +inscription stating that it was erected by Governor Francisco Antonio +del Valle and his wife in 1761. + +Church services were held in the Parroquia, or Parish church, +now the Cathedral, which had two towers or steeples, in which hung +four bells. The music was furnished by a violin and a triangle. +The wall back of the altar was covered with innumerable mirrors, +paintings, and bright-coloured tapestry. + +The exact date of the first settlement of Santa Fe is uncertain. +One authority says: + + It was a primeval stronghold before the Spanish Conquest, + and a town of some importance to the white race when + Pennsylvania was a wilderness and the first Dutch governor + of New York was slowly drilling the Knickerbocker ancestry + in their difficult evolutions around the town-pump. + +It is claimed, on what is deemed very authentic data by some, that +Santa Fe is really the oldest settled town in the United States. +St. Augustine, Florida, was established in 1565 and was unquestionably +conceded the honour of antiquity until the acquisition of New Mexico +by the Guadalupe-Hidalgo treaty. Then, of course, Santa Fe steps +into the arena and carries off the laurels. This claim of precedence +for Santa Fe is based upon the statement (whether historically correct +or not is a question) that when the Spaniards first entered the region +from the southern portion of Mexico, about 1542, they found a very +large Pueblo town on the present site of Santa Fe, and that its prior +existence extended far back into the vanished centuries. This is +contradicted by other historians, who contend that the claim of +Santa Fe to be the oldest town in the United States rests entirely +on imaginary annals of an Indian Pueblo before the Spanish Conquest, +and that there are but slight indications that the town was built +on the site of one.[9] + +The reader may further satisfy himself on these mooted points by +consulting the mass of historical literature on New Mexico, +and the records of its primitive times are not surpassed in interest +by those of any other part of the continent. It was there the +Europeans first made great conquests, and some years prior to the +landing of the Pilgrims, a history of New Mexico, being the journal +of Geronimo de Zarate Salmaron, was published by the Church in the +City of Mexico, early in 1600. Salmaron was a Franciscan monk; +a most zealous and indefatigable worker. During his eight years' +residence at Jemez, near Santa Fe, he claims to have baptized over +eight thousand Indians, converts to the Catholic faith. His journal +gives a description of the country, its mines, etc., and was made +public in order that other monks reading it might emulate his +pious example. + +Between 1605 and 1616 was founded the Villa of Santa Fe, or +San Francisco de la Santa Fe. "Villa," or village, was an honorary +title, always authorized and proclaimed by the king. Bancroft says +that it was first officially mentioned on the 3d of January, 1617. + +The first immigration to New Mexico was under Don Juan de Onate +about 1597, and in a year afterward, according to some authorities, +Santa Fe was settled. The place, as claimed by some historians, +was then named El Teguayo, a Spanish adaptation of the word "Tegua," +the name of the Pueblo nation, which was quite numerous, and occupied +Santa Fe and the contiguous country. It very soon, from its central +position and charming climate, became the leading Spanish town, +and the capital of the Province. The Spaniards, who came at first +into the country as friends, and were apparently eager to obtain +the good-will of the intelligent natives, shortly began to claim +superiority, and to insist on the performance of services which were +originally mere evidences of hospitality and kindness. Little by +little they assumed greater power and control over the Indians, +until in the course of years they had subjected a large portion of +them to servitude little differing from actual slavery. + +The impolitic zeal of the monks gradually invoked the spirit of +hatred and resulted in a rebellion that drove the Spaniards, in 1680, +from the country. The large number of priests who were left in the +midst of the natives met with horrible fates: + + Not one escaped martyrdom. At Zuni, three Franciscans + had been stationed, and when the news of the Spanish retreat + reached the town, the people dragged them from their cells, + stripped and stoned them, and afterwards compelled the + servant of one to finish the work by shooting them. Having + thus whetted their appetite for cruelty and vengeance, + the Indians started to carry the news of their independence + to Moqui, and signalized their arrival by the barbarous + murder of the two missionaries who were living there. + Their bodies were left unburied, as a prey for the wild + beasts. At Jemez they indulged in every refinement of + cruelty. The old priest, Jesus Morador, was seized in + his bed at night, stripped naked and mounted on a hog, + and thus paraded through the streets, while the crowd + shouted and yelled around. Not satisfied with this, + they then forced him to carry them as a beast would, + crawling on his hands and feet, until, from repeated beating + and the cruel tortures of sharp spurs, he fell dead in + their midst. A similar chapter of horrors was enacted + at Acoma, where three priests were stripped, tied together + with hair rope, and so driven through the streets, and + finally stoned to death. Not a Christian remained free + within the limits of New Mexico, and those who had been + dominant a few months before were now wretched and + half-starved fugitives, huddled together in the rude huts + of San Lorenzo. + + As soon as the Spaniards had retreated from the country, + the Pueblo Indians gave themselves up for a time to + rejoicing, and to the destruction of everything which could + remind them of the Europeans, their religion, and their + domination. The army which had besieged Santa Fe quickly + entered that city, took possession of the Palace as the + seat of government, and commenced the work of demolition. + The churches and the monastery of the Franciscans were + burned with all their contents, amid the almost frantic + acclamations of the natives. The gorgeous vestments of + the priests had been dragged out before the conflagration, + and now were worn in derision by Indians, who rode through + the streets at full speed, shouting for joy. The official + documents and books in the Palace were brought forth, + and made fuel for a bonfire in the centre of the Plaza; + and here also they danced the cachina, with all the + accompanying religious ceremonies of the olden time. + Everything imaginable was done to show their detestation + of the Christian faith and their determination to utterly + eradicate even its memory. Those who had been baptized + were washed with amole in the Rio Chiquito, in order to be + cleansed from the infection of Christianity. All baptismal + names were discarded, marriages celebrated by Christian + priests were annulled, the very mention of the names Jesus + and Mary was made an offence, and estuffas were constructed + to take the place of ruined churches.[10] + +For twelve years, although many abortive attempts were made to +recapture the country, the Pueblos were left in possession. On the +16th of October, 1693, the victorious Spaniards at last entered +Santa Fe, bearing the same banner which had been carried by Onate when +he entered the city just a century before. The conqueror this time +was Don Diego de Vargas Zapata Lujan, whom the viceroy of New Spain +had appointed governor in the spring of 1692, with the avowed purpose +of having New Mexico reconquered as speedily as possible. + +Thus it will be seen that the quaint old city has been the scene of +many important historical events, the mere outline of which I have +recorded here, as this book is not devoted to the historical view +of the subject. + +In contradistinction to the quiet, sleepy old Santa Fe of half +a century ago, it now presents all the vigour, intelligence, and +bustling progressiveness of the average American city of to-day, +yet still smacks of that ancient Spanish regime, which gives it +a charm that only its blended European and Indian civilization +could make possible after its amalgamation with the United States. + +The tourist will no longer find a drowsy old town, and the Plaza +is no longer unfenced and uncared for. A beautiful park of trees +is surrounded by low palings, and inside the shady enclosure, +under a group of large cottonwoods, is a cenotaph erected to the +memory of the Territory's gallant soldiers who fell in the shock of +battle to save New Mexico to the Union in 1862, and conspicuous among +the names carved on the enduring native rock is that of Kit Carson-- +prince of frontiersmen, and one of Nature's noblemen. + +Around the Plaza one sees the American style of architecture and +hears the hum of American civilization; but beyond, and outside +this pretty park, the streets are narrow, crooked, and have an +ancient appearance. There the old Santa Fe confronts the stranger; +odd, foreign-looking, and flavoured with all the peculiarities which +marked the era of Mexican rule. And now, where once was heard the +excited shouts of the idle crowd, of "Los Americanos!" "Los Carros!" +"La entrada de la Caravana!" as the great freight wagons rolled into +the streets of the old town from the Missouri, over the Santa Fe Trail, +the shrill whistle of the locomotive from its trail of steel awakens +the echoes of the mighty hills. + +As may be imagined, great excitement always prevailed whenever a +caravan of goods arrived in Santa Fe. Particularly was this the case +among the feminine portion of the community. The quaint old town +turned out its mixed population en masse the moment the shouts went up +that the train was in sight. There is nothing there to-day comparable +to the anxious looks of the masses as they watched the heavily +freighted wagons rolling into the town, the teamsters dust-begrimed, +and the mules making the place hideous with their discordant braying +as they knew that their long journey was ended and rest awaited them. +The importing merchants were obliged to turn over to the custom house +officials five hundred dollars for every wagon-load, great or small; +and no matter what the intrinsic value of the goods might be, +salt or silk, velvets or sugar, it was all the same. The nefarious +duty had to be paid before a penny's worth could be transferred +to their counters. Of course, with the end of Mexican rule and +the acquisition of the Province by the United States, all opposition +to the traffic of the Old Santa Fe Trail ended, traders were assured +a profitable market and the people purchased at relatively low prices. + +What a wonderful change has taken place in the traffic with New Mexico +in less than three-quarters of a century! In 1825 it was all carried +on with one single annual caravan of prairie-schooners, and now there +are four railroads running through the Rio Grande Valley, and one +daily freight train of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe into the +town unloads more freight than was taken there in a whole year when +the "commerce of the prairies" was at its height! + +Upon the arrival of a caravan in the days of the sleepy regime under +Mexican control, the people did everything in their power to make +the time pass pleasantly for every one connected with it during +their sojourn. Bailes, or fandangoes, as the dancing parties were +called by the natives, were given nightly, and many amusing anecdotes +in regard to them are related by the old-timers. + +The New Mexicans, both men and women, had a great fondness for +jewelry, dress, and amusements; of the latter, the fandango was the +principal, which was held in the most fashionable place of resort, +where every belle and beauty in the town presented herself, +attired in the most costly manner, and displaying her jewelled +ornaments to the best advantage. To this place of recreation +and pleasure, generally a large, capacious saloon or interior court, +all classes of persons were allowed to come, without charge and +without invitation. The festivities usually commenced about nine +o'clock in the evening, and the tolling of the church bells was +the signal for the ladies to make their entrance, which they did +almost simultaneously. + +New Mexican ladies were famous for their gaudy dresses, but it must +be confessed they did not exercise good taste. Their robes were +made without bodies; a skirt only, and a long, loose, flowing scarf +or reboso dexterously thrown about the head and shoulders, so as to +supersede both the use of dress-bodies and bonnets. + +There was very little order maintained at these fandangoes, and still +less attention paid to the rules of etiquette. A kind of swinging, +gallopade waltz was the favourite dance, the cotillion not being +much in vogue. Read Byron's graphic description of the waltz, +and then stretch your imagination to its utmost tension, and you +will perhaps have some faint conception of the Mexican fandango. +Such familiarity of position as was indulged in would be repugnant +to the refined rules of polite society in the eastern cities; +but with the New Mexicans, in those early times, nothing was +considered to be a greater accomplishment than that of being able +to go handsomely through all the mazes of their peculiar dance. + +There was one republican feature about the New Mexican fandango; +it was that all classes, rich and poor alike, met and intermingled, +as did the Romans at their Saturnalia, upon terms of equality. +Sumptuous repasts or collations were rarely ever prepared for those +frolicsome gatherings, but there was always an abundance of +confectionery, sweetmeats, and native wine. It cost very little +for a man to attend one of the fandangoes in Santa Fe, but not to get +away decently and sober. In that it resembled the descent of Aeneas +to Pluto's realms; it was easy enough to get there, but when it came +to return, "revocare gradum, superasque evadere ad auras, hic labor, +hoc opus est." + + + + +CHAPTER II. +LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. + + + +In the beginning of the trade with New Mexico, the route across +the great plains was directly west from the Missouri River to the +mountains, thence south to Santa Fe by the circuitous trail from Taos. +When the traffic assumed an importance demanding a more easy line +of way, the road was changed, running along the left bank of the +Arkansas until that stream turned northwest, at which point it +crossed the river, and continued southwest to the Raton Pass. + +The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad track substantially +follows the Trail through the mountains, which here afford the +wildest and most picturesquely beautiful scenery on the continent. + +The Arkansas River at the fording of the Old Trail is not more than +knee-deep at an ordinary stage of water, and its bottom is well paved +with rounded pebbles of the primitive rock. + +The overland trade between the United States and the northern +provinces of Mexico seems to have had no very definite origin; +having been rather the result of an accident than of any organized +plan of commercial establishment. + +According to the best authorities, a French creole, named La Lande, +an agent of a merchant of Kaskaskia, Illinois, was the first American +adventurer to enter into the uncertain channels of trade with the +people of the ultramontane region of the centre of the continent. +He began his adventurous journey across the vast wilderness, +with no companions but the savages of the debatable land, in 1804; +and following him the next year, James Pursley undertook the same +pilgrimage. Neither of these pioneers in the "commerce of the +prairies" returned to relate what incidents marked the passage of +their marvellous expeditions. Pursley was so infatuated with the +strange country he had travelled so far to reach, that he took up +his abode in the quaint old town of Santa Fe where his subsequent +life is lost sight of. La Lande, of a different mould, forgot to +render an account of his mission to the merchant who had sent him +there, and became a prosperous and wealthy man by means of money +to which he had no right. + +To Captain Zebulon Pike, who afterwards was made a general, is due +the impetus which the trade with Santa Fe received shortly after +his return to the United States. The student of American history +will remember that the expedition commanded by this soldier was +inaugurated in 1806; his report of the route he had taken was the +incentive for commercial speculation in the direction of trade with +New Mexico, but it was so handicapped by restrictions imposed by the +Mexican government, that the adventurers into the precarious traffic +were not only subject to a complete confiscation of their wares, +but frequently imprisoned for months as spies. Under such a condition +of affairs, many of the earlier expeditions, prior to 1822, resulted +in disaster, and only a limited number met with an indifferent success. + +It will not be inconsistent with my text if I herewith interpolate +an incident connected with Pursley, the second American to cross +the desert, for the purpose of trade with New Mexico, which I find in +the _Magazine of American History_: + + When Zebulon M. Pike was in Mexico, in 1807, he met, + at Santa Fe, a carpenter, Pursley by name, from Bardstown, + Kentucky, who was working at his trade. He had in a + previous year, while out hunting on the Plains, met with + a series of misfortunes, and found himself near the + mountains. The hostile Sioux drove the party into the + high ground in the rear of Pike's Peak. Near the headwaters + of the Platte River, Pursley found some gold, which he + carried in his shot-pouch for months. He was finally sent + by his companions to Santa Fe, to see if they could trade + with the Mexicans, but he chose to remain in Santa Fe + in preference to returning to his comrades. He told the + Mexicans about the gold he had found, and they tried hard + to persuade him to show them the place. They even offered + to take along a strong force of cavalry. But Pursley + refused, and his patriotic reason was that he thought the + land belonged to the United States. He told Captain Pike + that he feared they would not allow him to leave Santa Fe, + as they still hoped to learn from him where the gold was + to be found. These facts were published by Captain Pike + soon after his return east; but no one took the hint, + or the risk was too great, and thus more than a half + a century passed before those same rich fields of gold + were found and opened to the world. If Pursley had been + somewhat less patriotic, and had guided the Mexicans to + the treasures, the whole history and condition of the + western part of our continent might have been entirely + different from what it now is. That region would still + have been a part of Mexico, or Spain might have been + in possession of it, owning California; and, with the gold + that would have been poured into her coffers, would have + been the leading nation of European affairs to-day. + We can easily see how American and European history in + the nineteenth century might have been changed, if that + adventurer from Kentucky had not been a true lover of his + native country. + +The adventures of Captain Ezekiel Williams along the Old Trail, +in the early days of the century, tell a story of wonderful courage, +endurance, and persistency. Williams was a man of great perseverance, +patience, and determination of character. He set out from St. Louis +in the late spring of 1807, to trap on the Upper Missouri and the +waters of the Yellowstone, with a party of twenty men who had chosen +him as their leader. After various exciting incidents and thrilling +adventures, all of the original party, except Williams and two others, +were killed by the Indians somewhere in the vicinity of the Upper +Arkansas. The three survivors, not knowing where they were, separated, +and Captain Williams determined to take to the stream by canoe, and +trap on his way toward the settlements, while his last two companions +started for the Spanish country--that is, for the region of Santa Fe. +The journal of Williams, from which I shall quote freely, is to be +found in _The Lost Trappers_, a work long out of print.[11] As the +country was an unexplored region, he might be on a river that flowed +into the Pacific, or he might be drifting down a stream that was +an affluent to the Gulf of Mexico. He was inclined to believe +that he was on the sources of the Red River. He therefore resolved +to launch his canoe, and go wherever the stream might convey him, +trapping on his descent, when beaver might be plenty. + +The first canoe he used he made of buffalo-skins. As this kind +of water conveyance soon begins to leak and rot, he made another +of cottonwood, as soon as he came to timber sufficiently large, +in which he embarked for a port, he knew not where. + +Most of his journeyings Captain Williams performed during the hours +of night, excepting when he felt it perfectly safe to travel in +daylight. His usual plan was to glide along down the stream, until +he came to a place where beaver signs were abundant. There he would +push his little bark among the willows, where he remained concealed, +excepting when he was setting his traps or visiting them in the +morning. When he had taken all the beaver in one neighbourhood, +he would untie his little conveyance, and glide onward and downward +to try his luck in another place. + +Thus for hundreds of miles did this solitary trapper float down this +unknown river, through an unknown country, here and there lashing +his canoe to the willows and planting his traps in the little +tributaries around. The upper part of the Arkansas, for this +proved to be the river he was on,[12] is very destitute of timber, +and the prairie frequently begins at the bank of the river and +expands on either side as far as the eye can reach. He saw vast +herds of buffalo, and as it was the rutting season, the bulls were +making a wonderful ado; the prairie resounded with their low, deep +grunting or bellowing, as they tore up the earth with their feet +and horns, whisking their tails, and defying their rivals to battle. +Large gangs of wild horses could be seen grazing on the plains and +hillsides, and the neighing and squealing of stallions might be heard +at all times of the night. + +Captain Williams never used his rifle to procure meat, except when +it was absolutely necessary, or could be done with perfect safety. +On occasions when he had no beaver, upon which he generally subsisted, +he ventured to kill a deer, and after refreshing his empty stomach +with a portion of the flesh, he placed the carcass in one end of the +canoe. It was his invariable custom to sleep in his canoe at night, +moored to the shore, and once when he had laid in a supply of venison +he was startled in his sleep by the tramping of something in the +bushes on the bank. Tramp! tramp! tramp! went the footsteps, +as they approached the canoe. He thought at first it might be an +Indian that had found out his locality, but he knew that it could +not be; a savage would not approach him in that careless manner. +Although there was beautiful starlight, yet the trees and the dense +undergrowth made it very dark on the bank of the river, close to which +he lay. He always adopted the precaution of tying his canoe with +a piece of rawhide about twenty feet long, which allowed it to swing +from the bank at that distance; he did this so that in case of an +emergency he might cut the string, and glide off without making +any noise. As the sound of the footsteps grew more distinct, +he presently observed a huge grizzly bear coming down to the water +and swimming for the canoe. The great animal held his head up as if +scenting the venison. The captain snatched his axe as the most +available means to defend himself in such a scrape, and stood with +it uplifted, ready to drive it into the brains of the monster. +The bear reached the canoe, and immediately put his fore paws upon +the hind end of it, nearly turning it over. The captain struck one +of the brute's feet with the edge of the axe, which made him let go +with that foot, but he held on with the other, and he received +this time a terrific blow on the head, that caused him to drop away +from the canoe entirely. Nothing more was seen of the bear, +and the captain thought he must have sunk in the stream and drowned. +He was evidently after the fresh meat, which he scented from a great +distance. In the canoe the next morning there were two of the bear's +claws, which had been cut off by the well-directed blow of the axe. +These were carefully preserved by Williams for many years as a trophy +which he was fond of exhibiting, and the history of which he always +delighted to tell. + +As he was descending the river with his peltries, which consisted of +one hundred and twenty-five beaver-skins, besides some of the otter +and other smaller animals, he overtook three Kansas Indians, who were +also in a canoe going down the river, as he learned from them, +to some post to trade with the whites. They manifested a very +friendly disposition towards the old trapper, and expressed a wish +to accompany him. He also learned from them, to his great delight, +that he was on the Big Arkansas, and not more than five hundred miles +from the white settlements. He was well enough versed in the +treachery of the Indian character to know just how much he could +repose in their confidence. He was aware that they would not allow +a solitary trapper to pass through their country with a valuable +collection of furs, without, at least, making an effort to rob him. +He knew that their plan would be to get him into a friendly +intercourse, and then, at the first opportunity, strip him of +everything he possessed; consequently he was determined to get rid +of them as soon as possible, and to effect this, he plied his oars +with all diligence. The Indians, like most North American savages, +were lazy, and had no disposition to labour in that way, but took it +quite leisurely, satisfied with being carried down by the current. +Williams soon left them in the rear, and, as he supposed, far +behind him. When night came on, however, as he had worked all day, +and slept none the night before, he resolved to turn aside into a +bunch of willows to take a few hours' rest. But he had not stopped +more than forty minutes when he heard some Indians pull to the shore +just above him on the same side of the river. He immediately +loosened his canoe from its moorings, and glided silently away. +He rowed hard for two or three hours, when he again pulled to the +bank and tied up. + +Only a short time after he had landed, he heard Indians again going +on shore on the same side of the stream as himself. A second time +he repeated his tactics, slipped out of his place of concealment, +and stole softly away. He pulled on vigorously until some time after +midnight, when he supposed he could with safety stop and snatch a +little sleep. He felt apprehensive that he was in a dangerous region, +and his anxiety kept him wide awake. It was very lucky that he +did not close his eyes; for as he was lying in the bottom of his canoe +he heard for the third time a canoe land as before. He was now +perfectly satisfied that he was dogged by the Kansans whom he had +passed the preceding day, and in no very good humour, therefore, +he picked up his rifle, and walked up to the bank where he had heard +the Indians land. As he suspected, there were the three savages. +When they saw the captain, they immediately renewed their expressions +of friendship, and invited him to partake of their hospitality. +He stood aloof from them, and shook his head in a rage, charging +them with their villanous purposes. In the short, sententious manner +of the Indians, he said to them: "You now follow me three times; +if you follow me again, I kill you!" and wheeling around abruptly, +returned to his canoe. A third time the solitary trapper pushed +his little craft from the shore and set off down stream, to get away +from a region where to sleep would be hazardous. He plied his oars +the remainder of the night, and solaced himself with the thought +that no evil had befallen him, except the loss of a few hours' sleep. + +While he was escaping from his villanous pursuers, he was running +into new dangers and difficulties. The following day he overtook +a large band of the same tribe, under the leadership of a chief, +who were also descending the river. Into the hands of these savages +he fell a prisoner, and was conducted to one of their villages. +The principal chief there took all of his furs, traps, and other +belongings. A very short time after his capture, the Kansans went +to war with the Pawnees, and carried Captain Williams with them. +In a terrible battle in which the Kansans gained a most decided +victory, the old trapper bore a conspicuous part, killing a great +number of the enemy, and by his excellent strategy brought about +the success of his captors. When they returned to the village, +Williams, who had ever been treated with kindness by the inhabitants, +was now thought to be a wonderful warrior, and could have been +advanced to all the savage honours; he might even have been made +one of their principal chiefs. The tribe gave him his liberty for +the great service he had rendered it in its difficulty with an +inveterate foe, but declining all proffered promotions, he decided +to return to the white settlements on the Missouri, at the mouth +of the Kaw, the covetous old chief retaining all his furs, and indeed +everything he possessed excepting his rifle, with as many rounds +of ammunition as would be necessary to secure him provisions in the +shape of game on his route. The veteran trapper had learned from +the Indians while with them that they expected to go to Fort Osage +on the Missouri River to receive some annuities from the government, +and he felt certain that his furs would be there at the same time. + +After leaving the Kansans he travelled on toward the Missouri, +and soon struck the beginning of the sparse settlements. Just as +evening was coming on, he arrived at a cluster of three little +log-cabins, and was received with genuine backwoods hospitality by +the proprietor, who had married an Osage squaw. Williams was not only +very hungry, but very tired; and, after enjoying an abundant supper, +he became stupid and sleepy, and expressed a wish to lie down. +The generous trapper accordingly conducted him to one of the cabins, +in which there were two beds, standing in opposite corners of +the room. He immediately threw himself upon one, and was soon in +a very deep sleep. About midnight his slumbers were disturbed by +a singular and very frightful kind of noise, accompanied by struggling +on the other bed. What it was, Williams was entirely at a loss to +understand. There were no windows in the cabin, the door was shut, +and it was as dark as Egypt. A fierce contest seemed to be going on. +There were deep groanings and hard breathings; and the snapping of +teeth appeared almost constant. For a moment the noise would subside, +then again the struggles woud be renewed accompanied as before +with groaning, deep sighing, and grinding of teeth. + +The captain's bed-clothes consisted of a couple of blankets and a +buffalo-robe, and as the terrible struggles continued he raised +himself up in the bed, and threw the robe around him for protection, +his rifle having been left in the cabin where his host slept, while +his knife was attached to his coat, which he had hung on the corner +post of the other bedstead from which the horrid struggles emanated. +In an instant the robe was pulled off, and he was left uncovered and +unprotected; in another moment a violent snatch carried away the +blanket upon which he was sitting, and he was nearly tumbled off the +bed with it. As the next thing might be a blow in the dark, he felt +that it was high time to shift his quarters; so he made a desperate +leap from the bed, and alighted on the opposite side of the room, +calling for his host, who immediately came to his relief by opening +the door. Williams then told him that the devil--or something +as bad, he believed--was in the room, and he wanted a light. +The accommodating trapper hurried away, and in a moment was back +with a candle, the light of which soon revealed the awful mystery. +It was an Indian, who at the time was struggling in convulsions, +which he was subject to. He was a superannuated chief, a relative of +the wife of the hospitable trapper, and generally made his home there. +Absent when Captain Williams arrived, he came into the room at a +very late hour, and went to the bed he usually occupied. No one +on the claim knew of his being there until he was discovered, +in a dreadfully mangled condition. He was removed to other quarters, +and Williams, who was not to be frightened out of a night's rest, +soon sunk into sound repose. + +Williams reached the agency by the time the Kansas Indians arrived +there, and, as he suspected, found that the wily old chief had brought +all his belongings, which he claimed, and the agent made the savages +give up the stolen property before he would pay them a cent of their +annuities. He took his furs down to St. Louis, sold them there +at a good price, and then started back to the Rocky Mountains on +another trapping tour. + + + + +CHAPTER III. +EARLY TRADERS. + + + +In 1812 a Captain Becknell, who had been on a trading expedition +to the country of the Comanches in the summer of 1811, and had done +remarkably well, determined the next season to change his objective +point to Santa Fe, and instead of the tedious process of bartering +with the Indians, to sell out his stock to the New Mexicans. +Successful in this, his first venture, he returned to the Missouri +River with a well-filled purse, and intensely enthusiastic over the +result of his excursion to the newly found market. + +Excited listeners to his tales of enormous profits were not lacking, +who, inspired by the inducement he held out to them, cheerfully +invested five thousand dollars in merchandise suited to the demands +of the trade, and were eager to attempt with him the passage of +the great plains. In this expedition there were thirty men, and +the amount of money in the undertaking was the largest that had yet +been ventured. The progress of the little caravan was without +extraordinary incident, until it arrived at "The Caches" on the +Upper Arkansas. There Becknell, who was in reality a man of the +then "Frontier," bold, plucky, and endowed with excellent sense, +conceived the ridiculous idea of striking directly across the country +for Santa Fe through a region absolutely unexplored; his excuse +for this rash movement being that he desired to avoid the rough and +circuitous mountain route he had travelled on his first trip to Taos. + +His temerity in abandoning the known for the unknown was severely +punished, and his brave men suffered untold misery, barely escaping +with their lives from the terrible straits to which they were reduced. +Not having the remotest conception of the region through which their +new trail was to lead them, and naturally supposing that water would +be found in streams or springs, when they left the Arkansas they +neglected to supply themselves with more than enough of the precious +fluid to last a couple of days. At the end of that time they learned, +too late, that they were in the midst of a desert, with all the +tortures of thirst threatening them. + +Without a tree or a path to guide them, they took an irregular course +by observations of the North Star, and the unreliable needle of an +azimuth pocket-compass. There was a total absence of water, and when +what they had brought with them in their canteens from the river was +exhausted, thirst began its horrible office. In a short time both men +and animals were in a mental condition bordering on distraction. +To alleviate their acute torment, the dogs of the train were killed, +and their blood, hot and sickening, eagerly swallowed; then the ears +of the mules were cut off for the same purpose, but such a substitute +for water only added to their sufferings. They would have perished +had not a superannuated buffalo bull that had just come from the +Cimarron River, where he had gone to quench his thirst, suddenly +appeared, to be immediately killed and the contents of his stomach +swallowed with avidity. It is recorded that one of those who partook +of the nauseous liquid said afterward, "nothing had ever passed +his lips which gave him such exquisite delight as his first draught +of that filthy beverage." + +Although they were near the Cimarron, where there was plenty of water, +which but for the affair of the buffalo they never would have suspected, +they decided to retrace their steps to the Arkansas. + +Before they started on their retreat, however, some of the strongest +of the party followed the trail of the animal that had saved their +lives to the river, where, filling all the canteens with pure water, +they returned to their comrades, who were, after drinking, able to +march slowly toward the Arkansas. + +Following that stream, they at last arrived at Taos, having experienced +no further trouble, but missed the trail to Santa Fe, and had their +journey greatly prolonged by the foolish endeavour of the leader +to make a short cut thither. + +As early as 1815, Auguste P. Chouteau and his partner, with a large +number of trappers and hunters, went out to the valley of the +Upper Arkansas for the purpose of trading with Indians, and trapping +on the numerous streams of the contiguous region. + +The island on which Chouteau established his trading-post, and which +bears his name even to this day, is in the Arkansas River on the +boundary line of the United States and Mexico. It was a beautiful +spot, with a rich carpet of grass and delightful groves, and on +the American side was a heavily timbered bottom. + +While occupying the island, Chouteau and his old hunters and trappers +were attacked by about three hundred Pawnees, whom they repulsed +with the loss of thirty killed and wounded. These Indians afterward +declared that it was the most fatal affair in which they were ever +engaged. It was their first acquaintance with American guns. + +The general character of the early trade with New Mexico was founded +on the system of the caravan. She depended upon the remote ports +of old Mexico, whence was transported, on the backs of the patient +burro and mule, all that was required by the primitive tastes of the +primitive people; a very tedious and slow process, as may be inferred, +and the limited traffic westwardly across the great plains was +confined to this fashion. At the date of the legitimate and +substantial commerce with New Mexico, in 1824, wheeled vehicles were +introduced, and traffic assumed an importance it could never have +otherwise attained, and which now, under the vast system of railroads, +has increased to dimensions little dreamed of by its originators +nearly three-quarters of a century ago. + +It was eight years after Pursley's pilgrimage before the trade with +New Mexico attracted the attention of speculators and adventurers. +Messrs. McKnight,[13] Beard, and Chambers, with about a dozen comrades, +started with a supply of goods across the unknown plains, and by +good luck arrived safely at Santa Fe. Once under the jurisdiction +of the Mexicans, however, their trouble began. All the party were +arrested as spies, their wares confiscated, and themselves +incarcerated at Chihuahua, where the majority of them were kept for +almost a decade. Beard and Chambers, having by some means escaped, +returned to St. Louis in 1822, and, notwithstanding their dreadful +experience, told of the prospects of the trade with the Mexicans +in such glowing colours that they induced some individuals of small +capital to fit out another expedition, with which they again set out +for Santa Fe. + +It was really too late in the season; they succeeded, however, +in reaching the crossing of the Arkansas without any difficulty, +but there a violent snowstorm overtook them and they were compelled +to halt, as it was impossible to proceed in the face of the blinding +blizzard. On an island[14] not far from where the town of Cimarron, +on the Santa Fe Railroad, is now situated, they were obliged to +remain for more than three months, during which time most of their +animals died for want of food and from the severe cold. When the +weather had moderated sufficiently to allow them to proceed on +their journey, they had no transportation for their goods and were +compelled to hide them in pits dug in the earth, after the manner +of the old French voyageurs in the early settlement of the continent. +This method of secreting furs and valuables of every character +is called caching, from the French word "to hide." Gregg thus +describes it: + + The cache is made by digging a hole in the ground, somewhat + in the shape of a jug, which is lined with dry sticks, + grass, or anything else that will protect its contents + from the dampness of the earth. In this place the goods + to be concealed are carefully stowed away; and the aperture + is then so effectually closed as to protect them from + the rains. In caching, a great deal of skill is often + required to leave no sign whereby the cunning savage may + discover the place of deposit. To this end, the excavated + earth is carried some distance and carefully concealed, + or thrown into a stream, if one be at hand. The place + selected for a cache is usually some rolling point, + sufficiently elevated to be secure from inundations. + If it be well set with grass, a solid piece of turf is + cut out large enough for the entrance. The turf is + afterward laid back, and, taking root, in a short time + no signs remain of its ever having been molested. + However, as every locality does not afford a turfy site, + the camp-fire is sometimes built upon the place, or the + animals are penned over it, which effectually destroys + all traces. + +Father Hennepin[15] thus describes, in his quaint style, how he built +a cache on the bank of the Mississippi, in 1680: + + We took up the green sodd, and laid it by, and digg'd a hole + in the Earth where we put our Goods, and cover'd them with + pieces of Timber and Earth, and then put in again the green + Turf; so that 'twas impossible to suspect that any Hole had + been digg'd under it, for we flung the Earth into the River. + +After caching their goods, Beard and the party went on to Taos, +where they bought mules, and returning to their caches transported +their contents to their market. + +The word "cache" still lingers among the "old-timers" of the mountains +and plains, and has become a provincialism with their descendants; +one of these will tell you that he cached his vegetables in the side +of the hill; or if he is out hunting and desires to secrete himself +from approaching game, he will say, "I am going to cache behind +that rock," etc. + +The place where Beard's little expedition wintered was called +"The Caches" for years, and the name has only fallen into disuse +within the last two decades. I remember the great holes in the +ground when I first crossed the plains, a third of a century ago. + +The immense profit upon merchandise transported across the dangerous +Trail of the mid-continent to the capital of New Mexico soon excited +the cupidity of other merchants east of the Missouri. When the +commonest domestic cloth, manufactured wholly from cotton, brought +from two to three dollars a yard at Santa Fe, and other articles at +the same ratio to cost, no wonder the commerce with the far-off market +appeared to those who desired to send goods there a veritable Golconda. + +The importance of internal trade with New Mexico, and the possibilities +of its growth, were first recognized by the United States in 1824, +the originator of the movement being Mr. Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri, +who frequently, from his place in the Senate, prophesied the coming +greatness of the West. He introduced a bill which authorized the +President to appoint a commission to survey a road from the Missouri +River to the boundary line of New Mexico, and from thence on Mexican +territory with the consent of the Mexican government. The signing of +this bill was one of the last acts of Mr. Monroe's official life, +and it was carried into effect by his successor, Mr. John Quincy Adams, +but unfortunately a mistake was made in supposing that the Osage +Indians alone controlled the course of the proposed route. It was +partially marked out as far as the Arkansas, by raised mounds; +but travellers continued to use the old wagon trail, and as no +negotiations had been entered into with the Comanches, Cheyennes, +Pawnees, or Kiowas, these warlike tribes continued to harass the +caravans when these arrived in the broad valley of the Arkansas. + +The American fur trade was at its height at the time when the Santa Fe +trade was just beginning to assume proportions worthy of notice; +the difference between the two enterprises being very marked. The fur +trade was in the hands of immensely wealthy companies, while that to +Santa Fe was carried on by individuals with limited capital, who, +purchasing goods in the Eastern markets, had them transported to +the Missouri River, where, until the trade to New Mexico became a +fixed business, everything was packed on mules. As soon, however, +as leading merchants invested their capital, about 1824, the trade +grew into vast proportions, and wagons took the place of the patient +mule. Later, oxen were substituted for mules, it having been +discovered that they possessed many advantages over the former, +particularly in being able to draw heavier loads than an equal number +of mules, especially through sandy or muddy places. + +For a long time, the traders were in the habit of purchasing their +mules in Santa Fe and driving them to the Missouri; but as soon as +that useful animal was raised in sufficient numbers in the Southern +States to supply the demand, the importation from New Mexico ceased, +for the reason that the American mule was in all respects an immensely +superior animal. + +Once mules were an important object of the trade, and those who dealt +in them and drove them across to the river on the Trail met with +many mishaps; frequently whole droves, containing from three to +five hundred, were stolen by the savages en route. The latter soon +learned that it was a very easy thing to stampede a caravan of mules, +for, once panic-stricken, it is impossible to restrain them, and +the Indians having started them kept them in a state of rampant +excitement by their blood-curdling yells, until they had driven them +miles beyond the Trail. + +A story is told of a small band of twelve men, who, while encamped +on the Cimarron River, in 1826, with but four serviceable guns among +them, were visited by a party of Indians, believed to be Arapahoes, +who made at first strong demonstrations of friendship and good-will. +Observing the defenceless condition of the traders, they went away, +but soon returned about thirty strong, each provided with a lasso, +and all on foot. The chief then began by informing the Americans +that his men were tired of walking, and must have horses. Thinking +it folly to offer any resistance, the terrified traders told them +if one animal apiece would satisfy them, to go and catch them. +This they soon did; but finding their request so easily complied with, +the Indians held a little parley together, which resulted in a new +demand for more--they must have two apiece! "Well, catch them!" +was the acquiescent reply of the unfortunate band; upon which the +savages mounted those they had already secured, and, swinging their +lassos over their heads, plunged among the stock with a furious yell, +and drove off the entire caballada of nearly five hundred head of +horses, mules, and asses. + +In 1829 the Indians of the plains became such a terror to the caravans +crossing to Santa Fe, that the United States government, upon petition +of the traders, ordered three companies of infantry and one of riflemen, +under command of Major Bennet Riley, to escort the annual caravan, +which that year started from the town of Franklin, Missouri, then the +eastern terminus of the Santa Fe trade, as far as Chouteau's Island, +on the Arkansas, which marked the boundary between the United States +and Mexico.[16] The caravan started from the island across the dreary +route unaccompanied by any troops, but had progressed only a few miles +when it was attacked by a band of Kiowas, then one of the most cruel +and bloodthirsty tribes on the plains.[17] + +This escort, commanded by Major Riley, and another under Captain +Wharton, composed of only sixty dragoons, five years later, were the +sole protection ever given by the government until 1843, when Captain +Philip St. George Cooke again accompanied two large caravans to the +same point on the Arkansas as did Major Riley fourteen years before. + +As the trade increased, the Comanches, Pawnees, and Arapahoes +continued to commit their depredations, and it was firmly believed +by many of the freighters that these Indians were incited to their +devilish acts by the Mexicans, who were always jealous of +"Los Americanos." + +It was very rarely that a caravan, great or small, or even a detachment +of troops, no matter how large, escaped the raids of these bandits of +the Trail. If the list of those who were killed outright and scalped, +and those more unfortunate who were taken captive only to be tortured +and their bodies horribly mutilated, could be collected from the +opening of the traffic with New Mexico until the years 1868-69, when +General Sheridan inaugurated his memorable "winter campaign" against +the allied plains tribes, and completely demoralized, cowed, and +forced them on their reservations, about the time of the advent of the +railroad, it would present an appalling picture; and the number of +horses, mules, and oxen stampeded and stolen during the same period +would amount to thousands. + +As the excellent narrative of Captain Pike is not read as it should be +by the average American, a brief reference to it may not be considered +supererogatory. The celebrated officer, who was afterward promoted +to the rank of major-general, and died in the achievement of the +victory of York, Upper Canada, in 1813, was sent in 1806 on an +exploring expedition up the Arkansas River, with instructions to pass +the sources of Red River, for which those of the Canadian were then +mistaken; he, however, even went around the head of the latter, +and crossing the mountains with an almost incredible degree of peril +and suffering, descended upon the Rio del Norte with his little party, +then but fifteen in number. + +Believing himself now on Red River, within the then assumed limits +of the United States, he built a small fortification for his company, +until the opening of the spring of 1807 should enable him to continue +his descent to Natchitoches. As he was really within Mexican +territory, and only about eighty miles from the northern settlements, +his position was soon discovered, and a force sent to take him to +Santa Fe, which by treachery was effected without opposition. +The Spanish officer assured him that the governor, learning that +he had mistaken his way, had sent animals and an escort to convey +his men and baggage to a navigable point on Red River (Rio Colorado), +and that His Excellency desired very much to see him at Santa Fe, +which might be taken on their way. + +As soon, however, as the governor had the too confiding captain +in his power, he sent him with his men to the commandant general +at Chihuahua, where most of his papers were seized, and he and +his party were sent under an escort, via San Antonio de Bexar, +to the United States. + +Many citizens of the remote Eastern States, who were contemporary +with Pike, declared that his expedition was in some way connected +with the treasonable attempt of Aaron Burr. The idea is simply +preposterous; Pike's whole line of conduct shows him to have been +of the most patriotic character; never would he for a moment have +countenanced a proposition from Aaron Burr! + +After Captain Pike's report had been published to the world, +the adventurers who were inspired by its glowing description of +the country he had been so far to explore were destined to experience +trials and disappointments of which they had formed no conception. + +Among them was a certain Captain Sublette, a famous old trapper +in the era of the great fur companies, and with him a Captain Smith, +who, although veteran pioneers of the Rocky Mountains, were mere +novices in the many complications of the Trail; but having been in +the fastnesses of the great divide of the continent, they thought +that when they got down on the plains they could go anywhere. +They started with twenty wagons, and left the Missouri without +a single one of the party being competent to guide the little caravan +on the dangerous route. + +From the Missouri the Trail was broad and plain enough for a child +to follow, but when they arrived at the Cimarron crossing of +the Arkansas, not a trace of former caravans was visible; nothing but +the innumerable buffalo-trails leading from everywhere to the river. + +When the party entered the desert, or Dry Route, as it was years +afterward always, and very properly, called in certain seasons +of drought, the brave but too confident men discovered that the +whole region was burnt up. They wandered on for several days, +the horrors of death by thirst constantly confronting them. +Water must be had or they would all perish! At last Smith, in his +desperation, determined to follow one of the numerous buffalo-trails, +believing that it would conduct him to water of some character-- +a lake or pool or even wallow. He left the train alone; asked for +no one to accompany him; for he was the very impersonation of courage, +one of the most fearless men that ever trapped in the mountains. + +He walked on and on for miles, when, on ascending a little divide, +he saw a stream in the valley beneath him. It was the Cimarron, +and he hurried toward it to quench his intolerable thirst. When he +arrived at its bank, to his disappointment it was nothing but a bed +of sand; the sometime clear running river was perfectly dry. + +Only for a moment was he staggered; he knew the character of many +streams in the West; that often their waters run under the ground +at a short distance from the surface, and in a moment he was on +his knees digging vigorously in the soft sand. Soon the coveted +fluid began to filter upwards into the little excavation he had made. +He stooped to drink, and in the next second a dozen arrows from an +ambushed band of Comanches entered his body. He did not die at once, +however; it is related by the Indians themselves that he killed two +of their number before death laid him low. + +Captain Sublette and Smith's other comrades did not know what had +become of him until some Mexican traders told them, having got the +report from the very savages who committed the cold-blooded murder. + +Gregg, in his report of this little expedition, says: + Every kind of fatality seems to have attended this small + caravan. Among other casualties, a clerk in their company, + named Minter, was killed by a band of Pawnees, before they + crossed the Arkansas. This, I believe, is the only instance + of loss of life among the traders while engaged in hunting, + although the scarcity of accidents can hardly be said to be + the result of prudence. There is not a day that hunters + do not commit some indescretion; such as straying at + a distance of five and even ten miles from the caravan, + frequently alone, and seldom in bands of more than two or + three together. In this state, they must frequently be + spied by prowling savages; so that frequency of escape, + under such circumstances, must be partly attributed to + the cowardice of the Indians; indeed, generally speaking, + the latter are very loth to charge upon even a single + armed man, unless they can take him at a decided advantage. + + Not long after, this band of Captain Sublette's very + narrowly escaped total destruction. They had fallen in + with an immense horde of Blackfeet and Gros Ventres, and, + as the traders were literally but a handful among thousands + of savages, they fancied themselves for a while in imminent + peril of being virtually "eated up." But as Captain + Sublette possessed considerable experience, he was at + no loss how to deal with these treacherous savages; so that + although the latter assumed a threatening attitude, + he passed them without any serious molestation, and finally + arrived at Santa Fe in safety. + +The virtual commencement of the Santa Fe trade dates from 1822, +and one of the most remarkable events in its history was the first +attempt to introduce wagons in the expeditions. This was made in 1824 +by a company of traders, about eighty in number, among whom were +several gentlemen of intelligence from Missouri, who contributed +by their superior skill and undaunted energy to render the enterprise +completely successful. A portion of this company employed pack-mules; +among the rest were owned twenty-five wheeled vehicles, of which +one or two were stout road-wagons, two were carts, and the rest +Dearborn carriages, the whole conveying some twenty-five or thirty +thousand dollars' worth of merchandise. Colonel Marmaduke, +of Missouri, was one of the party. This caravan arrived at Santa Fe +safely, experiencing much less difficulty than they anticipated +from a first attempt with wheeled vehicles. + +Gregg continues: + The early voyageurs, having but seldom experienced any + molestation from the Indians, generally crossed the plains + in detached bands, each individual rarely carrying more than + two or three hundred dollars' worth of stock. This peaceful + season, however, did not last very long; and it is greatly + to be feared that the traders were not always innocent of + having instigated the savage hostilities that ensued in + after years. Many seemed to forget the wholesome precept, + that they should not be savages themselves because they + dealt with savages. Instead of cultivating friendly + feelings with those few who remained peaceful and honest, + there was an occasional one always disposed to kill, + even in cold blood, every Indian that fell into their power, + merely because some of the tribe had committed an outrage + either against themselves or friends. + +As an instance of this, he relates the following: + In 1826 two young men named McNess and Monroe, having + carelessly lain down to sleep on the bank of a certain + stream, since known as McNess Creek,[18] were barbarously + shot, with their own guns, as it was supposed, in the very + sight of the caravan. When their comrades came up, + they found McNess lifeless, and the other almost expiring. + In this state the latter was carried nearly forty miles to + the Cimarron River, where he died, and was buried according + to the custom of the prairies, a very summary proceeding, + necessarily. The corpse, wrapped in a blanket, its shroud + the clothes it wore, is interred in a hole varying in depth + according to the nature of the soil, and upon the grave is + piled stones, if any are convenient, to prevent the wolves + from digging it up. Just as McNess's funeral ceremonies + were about to be concluded, six or seven Indians appeared + on the opposite side of the Cimarron. Some of the party + proposed inviting them to a parley, while the rest, burning + for revenge, evinced a desire to fire upon them at once. + It is more than probable, however, that the Indians were not + only innocent but ignorant of the outrage that had been + committed, or they would hardly have ventured to approach + the caravan. Being quick of perception, they very soon saw + the belligerent attitude assumed by the company, and + therefore wheeled round and attempted to escape. One shot + was fired, which brought an Indian to the ground, when he + was instantly riddled with balls. Almost simultaneously + another discharge of several guns followed, by which all + the rest were either killed or mortally wounded, except one, + who escaped to bear the news to his tribe. + + These wanton cruelties had a most disastrous effect upon the + prospects of the trade; for the exasperated children of + the desert became more and more hostile to the "pale-faces," + against whom they continued to wage a cruel war for many + successive years. In fact this party suffered very severely + a few days afterward. They were pursued by the enraged + comrades of the slain savages to the Arkansas River, where + they were robbed of nearly a thousand horses and mules. + +The author of this book, although having but little compassion for +the Indians, must admit that, during more than a third of a century +passed on the plains and in the mountains, he has never known of +a war with the hostile tribes that was not caused by broken faith +on the part of the United States or its agents. I will refer to +two prominent instances: that of the outbreak of the Nez Perces, and +that of the allied plains tribes. With the former a solemn treaty +was made in 1856, guaranteeing to them occupancy of the Wallola valley +forever. I. I. Stevens, who was governor of Washington Territory +at the time, and ex-officio superintendent of Indian affairs in +the region, met the Nez Perces, whose chief, "Wish-la-no-she," +an octogenarian, when grasping the hand of the governor at the council +said: "I put out my hand to the white man when Lewis and Clark +crossed the continent, in 1805, and have never taken it back since." +The tribe kept its word until the white men took forcible possession +of the valley promised to the Indians, when the latter broke out, +and a prolonged war was the consequence. In 1867 Congress appointed +a commission to treat with the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes, +appropriating four hundred thousand dollars for the expenses of +the commission. It met at Medicine Lodge in August of the year +mentioned, and made a solemn treaty, which the members of the +commission, on the part of the United States, and the principal +chiefs of the three tribes signed. Congress failed to make any +appropriation to carry out the provisions of the treaty, and the +Indians, after waiting a reasonable time, broke out, devastated +the settlements from the Platte to the Rio Grande, destroying +millions of dollars' worth of property, and sacrificing hundreds +of men, women, and children. Another war was the result, which +cost more millions, and under General Sheridan the hostile savages +were whipped into a peace, which they have been compelled to keep. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. +TRAINS AND PACKERS. + + + +As has been stated, until the year 1824 transportation across the +plains was done by means of pack-mules, the art of properly loading +which seems to be an intuitive attribute of the native Mexican. +The American, of course, soon became as expert, for nothing that +the genus homo is capable of doing is impossible to him; but his +teacher was the dark-visaged, superstitious, and profanity-expending +Mexican arriero. + +A description of the equipment of a mule-train and the method of +packing, together with some of the curious facts connected with +its movements, may not be uninteresting, particularly as the +whole thing, with rare exceptions in the regular army at remote +frontier posts, has been relegated to the past, along with the caravan +of the prairie and the overland coach. To this generation, barring +a few officers who have served against the Indians on the plains +and in the mountains, a pack-mule train would be as great a curiosity +as the hairy mammoth. In the following particulars I have taken +as a model the genuine Mexican pack-train or atajo, as it was called +in their Spanish dialect, always used in the early days of the +Santa Fe trade. The Americans made many modifications, but the basis +was purely Mexican in its origin. A pack-mule was termed a mula +de carga, and his equipment consisted of several parts; first, +the saddle, or aparejo, a nearly square pad of leather stuffed +with hay, which covered the animal's back on both sides equally. +The best idea of its shape will be formed by opening a book in +the middle and placing it saddle-fashion on the back of a chair. +Each half then forms a flap of the contrivance. Before the aparejo +was adjusted to the mule, a salea, or raw sheep-skin, made soft +by rubbing, was put on the animal's back, to prevent chafing, +and over it the saddle-cloth, or xerga. On top of both was placed +the aparejo, which was cinched by a wide grass-bandage. This band +was drawn as tightly as possible, to such an extent that the poor +brute grunted and groaned under the apparently painful operation, +and when fastened he seemed to be cut in two. This always appeared +to be the very acme of cruelty to the uninitiated, but it is the +secret of successful packing; the firmer the saddle, the more +comfortably the mule can travel, with less risk of being chafed +and bruised. The aparejo is furnished with a huge crupper, and +this appendage is really the most cruel of all, for it is almost +sure to lacerate the tail. Hardly a Mexican mule in the old days +of the trade could be found which did not bear the scar of this +rude supplement to the immense saddle. + +The load, which is termed a carga, was generally three hundred pounds. +Two arrieros, or packers, place the goods on the mule's back, +one, the cargador, standing on the near side, his assistant on +the other. The carga is then hoisted on top of the saddle if it +is a single package; or if there are two of equal size and weight, +one on each side, coupled by a rope, which balances them on the +animal. Another stout rope is then thrown over all, drawn as tightly +as possible under the belly, and laced round the packs, securing +them firmly in their place. Over the load, to protect it from rain, +is thrown a square piece of matting called a petate. Sometimes, +when a mule is a little refractory, he is blindfolded by a thin +piece of leather, generally embroidered, termed the tapojos, and +he remains perfectly quiet while the process of packing is going on. +When the load is securely fastened in its place, the blinder is +removed. The man on the near side, with his knee against the mule +for a purchase, as soon as the rope is hauled taut, cries out "Adios," +and his assistant answers "Vaya!" Then the first says again, "Anda!" +upon which the mule trots off to its companions, all of which feed +around until the animals of the whole train are packed. It seldom +requires more than five minutes for the two men to complete the +packing of the animal, and in that time is included the fastening +of the aperejo. It is surprising to note the degree of skill +exercised by an experienced packer, and his apparently abnormal +strength in handling the immense bundles that are sometimes +transported. By the aid of his knees used as a fulcrum, he lifts +a package and tosses it on the mule's back without any apparent +effort, the dead weight of which he could not move from the ground. + +An old-time atajo or caravan of pack-mules generally numbered from +fifty to two hundred, and it travelled a jornado, or day's march of +about twelve or fifteen miles. This day's journey was made without +any stopping at noon, because if a pack-mule is allowed to rest, +he generally tries to lie down, and with his heavy load it is +difficult for him to get on his feet again. Sometimes he is badly +strained in so doing, perhaps ruined forever. When the train starts +out on the trail, the mules are so tightly bound with the ropes +which confine the load that they move with great difficulty; +but the saddle soon settles itself and the ropes become loosened +so that they have frequently to be tightened. On the march the +arriero is kept busy nearly all the time; the packs are constantly +changing their position, frequently losing their balance and +falling off; sometimes saddle, pack, and all swing under the +animal's belly, and he must be unloaded and repacked again. + +On arriving at the camping-ground the pack-saddles with their loads +are ranged in regular order, their freight being between the saddles, +covered with the petates to protect it from the rain, and generally +a ditch is dug around to carry off the water, if the weather is stormy. +After two or three days' travel each mule knows its own pack and +saddle, and comes up to it at the proper moment with an intelligence +that is astonishing. If an animal should come whose pack is +somewhere else, he is soundly kicked in the ribs by the rightful mule, +and sent bruised and battered to his place. He rarely makes a mistake +in relation to the position of his own pack the second time. + +This method of transportation was so cheap, because of the low rate +of wages, that wagon-freighting, even in the most level region, +could not compete with it. Five dollars a month was the amount paid +to the muleteers, but it was oftener five with rations, costing +almost nothing, of corn and beans. Meat, if used at all, was found +by the arrieros themselves. + +On the trail the mule-train is under a system of discipline almost +as severe as that on board of a man-of-war. Every individual +employed is assigned to his place and has certain duties to perform. +There is a night-herder, called the savanero, whose duty it is +to keep the animals from straying too far away, as they are all +turned loose to shift for themselves, depending upon the grass alone +for their subsistence. Each herd has a mulera, or bell-mare, +which wears a bell hanging to a strap around her neck, and is kept +in view of the other animals, who will never leave her. If the mare +is taken away from the herd, every mule becomes really melancholy +and is at a loss what to do or where to go. The cook of the party, +or madre (mother) as he is called, besides his duty in preparing +the food, must lead the bell-mule ahead of the train while travelling, +the pack-animals following her with a devotion that is remarkable. + +Sometimes in traversing the narrow ledges cut around the sides of +a precipitous trail, or crossing a narrow natural bridge spanning +the frightful gorges found everywhere in the mountains, a mule +will be incontinently thrown off the slippery path, and fall hundreds +of feet into the yawning canyon below. Generally instant death +is their portion, though I recall an instance, while on an expedition +against the hostile Indians thirty years ago, where a number of mules +of our pack-train, loaded with ammunition, tumbled nearly five hundred +feet down an almost perpendicular chasm, and yet some of them got +on their feet again, and soon rejoined their companions, without +having suffered any serious injury. + +The wagons so long employed in this trade, after their first +introduction in 1824, were manufactured in Pittsburgh, their capacity +being about a ton and a half, and they were drawn by eight mules +or the same number of oxen. Later much larger wagons were employed +with nearly double the capacity of the first, hauled by ten and +twelve mules or oxen. These latter were soon called prairie-schooners, +which name continued to linger until transportation across the plains +by wagons was completely extinguished by the railroads. + +Under Mexican rule excessive tariff imposts were instituted, +amounting to about a hundred per cent upon goods brought from the +United States, and for some years, during the administration of +Governor Manuel Armijo, a purely arbitrary duty was demanded of +five hundred dollars for every wagon-load of merchandise brought +into the Province, whether great or small, and regardless of its +intrinsic value. As gold and silver were paid for the articles +brought by the traders, they were also required to pay a heavy duty +on the precious metals they took out of the country. Yankee ingenuity, +however, evaded much of these unjust taxes. When the caravan +approached Santa Fe, the freight of three wagons was transferred +to one, and the empty vehicles destroyed by fire; while to avoid +paying the export duty on gold and silver, they had large false +axletrees to some of the wagons, in which the money was concealed, +and the examining officer of the customs, perfectly unconscious of +the artifice, passed them. + +The army, in its expeditions against the hostile Indian tribes, +always employed wagons in transporting its provisions and munitions +of war, except in the mountains, where the faithful pack-mule was +substituted. The American freighters, since the occupation of +New Mexico by the United States, until the transcontinental railroad +usurped their vocation, used wagons only; the Mexican nomenclature +was soon dropped and simple English terms adopted: caravan became +train, and majordomo, the person in charge, wagon-master. The latter +was supreme. Upon him rested all the responsibility, and to him +the teamsters rendered absolute obedience. He was necessarily a man +of quick perception, always fertile in expedients in times of +emergency, and something of an engineer; for to know how properly +to cross a raging stream or a marshy slough with an outfit of fifty +or sixty wagons required more than ordinary intelligence. Then in +the case of a stampede, great clear-headedness and coolness were +needed to prevent loss of life. + +Stampedes were frequently very serious affairs, particularly with +a large mule-train. Notwithstanding the willingness and patient +qualities of that animal, he can act as absurdly as a Texas steer, +and is as easily frightened at nothing. Sometimes as insignificant +a circumstance as a prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, +a figure in the distance, or even the shadow of a passing cloud +will start every animal in the train, and away they go, rushing into +each other, and becoming entangled in such a manner that both drivers +and mules have often been crushed to death. It not infrequently +happened that five or six of the teams would dash off and never +could be found. I remember one instance that occurred on the trail +between Fort Hays and Fort Dodge, during General Sheridan's +winter campaign against the allied plains tribes in 1868. Three of +the wagons were dragged away by the mules, in a few moments were +out of sight, and were never recovered, although diligent search +was made for them for some days. Ten years afterward a farmer, +who had taken up a claim in what is now Rush County, Kansas, +discovered in a ravine on his place the bones of some animals, +decayed parts of harness, and the remains of three army-wagons, +which with other evidence proved them to be the identical ones +lost from the train so many years before. + +The largest six-mule wagon-train that was ever strung out on the +plains transported the supplies for General Custer's command during +the winter above referred to. It comprised over eight hundred +army-wagons, and was four miles in length in one column, or one mile +when in four lines--the usual formation when in the field. + +The animals of the train were either hobbled or herded at night, +according to the locality; if in an Indian country, always hobbled +or, preferably, tied up to the tongue of the wagon to which they +belonged. The hobble is simply a strip of rawhide, with two slides +of the same material. Placed on the front legs of the mule just +at the fetlock, the slides pushed close to the limb, the animal +could move around freely enough to graze, but was not able to travel +very fast in the event of a stampede. In the Indian country, it was +usual at night, or in the daytime when halting to feed, to form +a corral of the wagons, by placing them in a circle, the wheels +interlocked and the tongues run under the axles, into which circle +the mules, on the appearance of the savages, were driven, and which +also made a sort of fortress behind which the teamsters could more +effectually repel an attack. + +In the earlier trading expeditions to Santa Fe, the formation and +march of the caravan differed materially from that of the army-train +in later years. I here quote Gregg, whose authority on the subject +has never been questioned. When all was ready to move out on the +broad sea of prairie, he said: + + We held a council, at which the respective claims of the + different aspirants for office were considered, leaders + selected, and a system of government agreed upon--as is + the standing custom of these promiscuous caravans. + A captain was proclaimed elected, but his powers were not + defined by any constitutional provision; consequently, + they were very vague and uncertain. Orders being only + viewed as mere requests, they are often obeyed or neglected + at the caprice of the subordinates. It is necessary to + observe, however, that the captain is expected to direct + the order of travel during the day and to designate the + camping-ground at night, with many other functions of + general character, in the exercise of which the company + find it convenient to acquiesce. + + After this comes the task of organizing. The proprietors + are first notified by proclamation to furnish a list of + their men and wagons. The latter are generally apportioned + into four divisions, particularly when the company is large. + To each of these divisions, a lieutenant is appointed, + whose duty it is to inspect every ravine and creek on the + route, select the best crossings, and superintend what is + called in prairie parlance the forming of each encampment. + + There is nothing so much dreaded by inexperienced travellers + as the ordeal of guard duty. But no matter what the + condition or employment of the individual may be, no one + has the slightest chance of evading the common law of + the prairies. The amateur tourist and the listless loafer + are precisely in the same wholesome predicament--they must + all take their regular turn at the watch. There is usually + a set of genteel idlers attached to every caravan, whose + wits are forever at work in devising schemes for whiling + away their irksome hours at the expense of others. + By embarking in these trips of pleasure, they are enabled + to live without expense; for the hospitable traders seldom + refuse to accommodate even a loafing companion with a berth + at their mess without charge. But these lounging attaches + are expected at least to do good service by way of guard + duty. None are ever permitted to furnish a substitute, + as is frequently done in military expeditions; for he that + would undertake to stand the tour of another besides + his own would scarcely be watchful enough for dangers + of the prairies. Even the invalid must be able to produce + unequivocal proofs of his inability, or it is a chance + if the plea is admitted. + + The usual number of watchers is eight, each standing a + fourth of every alternate night. When the party is small, + the number is generally reduced, while in the case of + very small bands, they are sometimes compelled for safety's + sake to keep watch on duty half the night. With large + caravans the captain usually appoints eight sergeants + of the guard, each of whom takes an equal portion of men + under his command. + + The wild and motley aspect of the caravan can be but + imperfectly conceived without an idea of the costumes of + its various members. The most fashionable prairie dress + is the fustian frock of the city-bred merchant, furnished + with a multitude of pockets capable of accommodating a + variety of extra tackling. Then there is the backwoodsman + with his linsey or leather hunting-shirt--the farmer with + his blue jean coat--the wagoner with his flannel sleeve + vest--besides an assortment of other costumes which go + to fill up the picture. + + In the article of firearms there is also an equally + interesting medley. The frontier hunter sticks to his + rifle, as nothing could induce him to carry what he terms + in derision "the scatter-gun." The sportsman from the + interior flourishes his double-barrelled fowling-piece + with equal confidence in its superiority. A great many + were furnished beside with a bountiful supply of pistols + and knives of every description, so that the party made + altogether a very brigand-like appearance. + + "Catch up! Catch up!" is now sounded from the captain's + camp and echoed from every division and scattered group + along the valley. The woods and dales resound with the + gleeful yells of the light-hearted wagoners who, weary of + inaction and filled with joy at the prospect of getting + under way, become clamorous in the extreme. Each teamster + vies with his fellow who shall be soonest ready; and it + is a matter of boastful pride to be the first to cry out, + "All's set." + + The uproarious bustle which follows, the hallooing of those + in pursuit of animals, the exclamations which the unruly + brutes call forth from their wrathful drivers, together + with the clatter of bells, the rattle of yokes and harness, + the jingle of chains, all conspire to produce an uproarious + confusion. It is sometimes amusing to observe the athletic + wagoner hurrying an animal to its post--to see him heave + upon the halter of a stubborn mule, while the brute as + obstinately sets back, determined not to move a peg till + his own good pleasure thinks it proper to do so--his whole + manner seeming to say, "Wait till your hurry's over." + I have more than once seen a driver hitch a harnessed animal + to the halter, and by that process haul his mulishness + forward, while each of his four projected feet would leave + a furrow behind. + + "All's set!" is finally heard from some teamster-- + "All's set," is directly responded from every quarter. + "Stretch out!" immediately vociferates the captain. + Then the "heps!" to the drivers, the cracking of whips, + the trampling of feet, the occasional creak of wheels, + the rumbling of the wagons, while "Fall in" is heard from + head-quarters, and the train is strung out and in a few + moments has started on its long journey. + +With an army-train the discipline was as perfect as that of a garrison. +The wagon-master was under the orders of the commander of the troops +which escorted the caravan, the camps were formed with regard to +strategic principles, sentries walked their beats and were visited +by an officer of the day, as if stationed at a military post. + +Unquestionably the most expert packer I have known is Chris. Gilson, +of Kansas. In nearly all the expeditions on the great plains and +in the mountains he has been the master-spirit of the pack-trains. +General Sheridan, who knew Gilson long before the war, in Oregon +and Washington, regarded the celebrated packer with more than +ordinary friendship. For many years he was employed by the government +at the suggestion of General Sheridan, to teach the art of packing +to the officers and enlisted men at several military posts in the West. +He received a large salary, and for a long period was stationed at +the immense cavalry depot of Fort Riley, in Kansas. Gilson was also +employed by the British army during the Zulu war in Africa, +as chief packer, at a salary of twenty dollars a day. Now, however, +since the railroads have penetrated the once considered impenetrable +fastnesses of the mountains, packing will be relegated to the lost arts. + + + + +CHAPTER V. +FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. + + + +Early in the spring of 1828, a company of young men residing in the +vicinity of Franklin, Missouri, having heard related by a neighbour +who had recently returned the wonderful story of a passage across +the great plains, and the strange things to be seen in the land of +the Greasers, determined to explore the region for themselves; +making the trip in wagons, an innovation of a startling character, +as heretofore only pack-animals had been employed in the limited trade +with far-off Santa Fe. The story of their journey can best be told +in the words of one of the party:[19]-- + + We had about one thousand miles to travel, and as there was + no wagon-road in those early days across the plains to the + mountains, we were compelled to take our chances through + the vast wilderness, seeking the best route we could. + + No signs of life were visible except the innumerable buffalo + and antelope that were constantly crossing our trail. + We moved on slowly from day to day without any incident + worth recording and arrived at the Arkansas; made the + passage and entered the Great American Desert lying beyond, + as listless, lonesome, and noiseless as a sleeping sea. + Having neglected to carry any water with us, we were obliged + to go withot a drop for two days and nights after leaving + the river. At last we reached the Cimarron, a cool, + sparkling stream, ourselves and our animals on the point + of perishing. Our joy at discovering it, however, was + short-lived. We had scarcely quenched our thirst when + we saw, to our dismay, a large band of Indians camped on + its banks. Their furtive glances at us, and significant + looks at each other, aroused our worst suspicions, and + we instinctively felt we were not to get away without + serious trouble. Contrary to our expectations, however, + they did not offer to molest us, and we at once made up + our minds they preferred to wait for our return, as we + believed they had somehow learned of our intention to bring + back from New Mexico a large herd of mules and ponies. + + We arrived in Santa Fe on the 20th of July, without further + adventure, and after having our stock of goods passed + through the custom house, were granted the privilege of + selling them. The majority of the party sold out in a + very short time and started on their road to the States, + leaving twenty-one of us behind to return later. + + On the first day of September, those of us who had remained + in Santa Fe commenced our homeward journey. We started + with one hundred and fifty mules and horses, four wagons, + and a large amount of silver coin. Nothing of an eventful + character occurred until we arrived at the Upper Cimarron + Springs, where we intended to encamp for the night. + But our anticipations of peaceable repose were rudely + dispelled; for when we rode up on the summit of the hill, + the sight that met our eyes was appalling enough to excite + the gravest apprehensions. It was a large camp of + Comanches, evidently there for the purpose of robbery + and murder. We could neither turn back nor go on either + side of them on account of the mountainous character of + the country, and we realized, when too late, that we were + in a trap. + + There was only one road open to us; that right through + the camp. Assuming the bravest look possible, and keeping + our rifles in position for immediate action, we started + on the perilous venture. The chief met us with a smile + of welcome, and said, in Spanish: "You must stay with us + to-night. Our young men will guard your stock, and we have + plenty of buffalo meat." + + Realizing the danger of our situation, we took advantage + of every moment of time to hurry through their camp. + Captain Means, Ellison, and myself were a little distance + behind the wagons, on horseback; observing that the balance + of our men were evading them, the blood-thirsty savages + at once threw off their masks of dissimulation and in an + instant we knew the time for a struggle had arrived. + + The Indians, as we rode on, seized our bridle-reins and + began to fire upon us. Ellison and I put spurs to our + horses and got away, but Captain Means, a brave man, + was ruthlessly shot and cruelly scalped while the life-blood + was pouring from his ghastly wounds. + + We succeeded in fighting them off until we had left their + camp half a mile behind, and as darkness had settled down + on us, we decided to go into camp ourselves. We tied our + gray bell-mare to a stake, and went out and jingled the + bell, whenever any of us could do so, thus keeping the + animals from stampeding. We corralled our wagons for + better protection, and the Indians kept us busy all night + resisting their furious charges. We all knew that death + at our posts would be infinitely preferable to falling + into their hands; so we resolved to sell our lives as + dearly as possible. + + The next day we made but five miles; it was a continuous + fight, and a very difficult matter to prevent their + capturing us. This annoyance was kept up for four days; + they would surround us, then let up as if taking time to + renew their strength, to suddenly charge upon us again, + and they continued thus to harass us until we were almost + exhausted from loss of sleep. + + After leaving the Cimarron, we once more emerged on the + open plains and flattered ourselves we were well rid of + the savages; but about twelve o'clock they came down on us + again, uttering their demoniacal yells, which frightened + our horses and mules so terribly, that we lost every hoof. + A member of our party, named Hitt, in endeavouring to + recapture some of the stolen stock, was taken by the + savages, but luckily escaped from their clutches, after + having been wounded in sixteen parts of his body; + he was shot, tomahawked, and speared. When the painted + demons saw that one of their number had been killed by us, + they left the field for a time, while we, taking advantage + of the temporary lull, went back to our wagons and built + breastworks of them, the harness, and saddles. From noon + until two hours in the night, when the moon went down, + the savages were apparently confident we would soon fall + a prey to them, and they made charge after charge upon + our rude fortifications. + + Darkness was now upon us. There were two alternatives + before us: should we resolve to die where we were, or + attempt to escape in the black hours of the night? + It was a desperate situation. Our little band looked + the matter squarely in the face, and, after a council + of war had been held, we determined to escape, if possible. + + In order to carry out our resolve, it was necessary to + abandon the wagons, together with a large amount of silver + coin, as it would be impossible to take all of the precious + stuff with us in our flight; so we packed up as much of it + as we could carry, and, bidding our hard-earned wealth + a reluctant farewell, stepped out in the darkness like + spectres and hurried away from the scene of death. + + Our proper course was easterly, but we went in a northerly + direction in order to avoid the Indians. We travelled + all that night, the next day, and a portion of its night + until we reached the Arkansas River, and, having eaten + nothing during that whole time excepting a few prickly-pears, + were beginning to feel weak from the weight of our burdens + and exhaustion. At this point we decided to lighten + our loads by burying all of the money we had carried + thus far, keeping only a small sum for each man. + Proceeding to a small island in the river, our treasure, + amounting to over ten thousand silver dollars, was cached + in the ground between two cottonwood trees. + + Believing now that we were out of the usual range of + the predatory Indians, we shot a buffalo and an antelope + which we cooked and ate without salt or bread; but no meal + has ever tasted better to me than that one. + + We continued our journey northward for three or four days + more, when, reaching Pawnee Fork, we travelled down it for + more than a week, arriving again on the Old Santa Fe Trail. + Following the Trail three days, we arrived at Walnut Creek, + then left the river again and went eastwardly to Cow Creek. + When we reached that point, we had become so completely + exhausted and worn out from subsisting on buffalo meat + alone, that it seemed as if there was nothing left for + us to do but lie down and die. Finally it was determined + to send five of the best-preserved men on ahead to + Independence, two hundred miles, for the purpose of + procuring assistance; the other fifteen to get along + as well as they could until succour reached them. + + I was one of the five selected to go on in advance, and + I shall never forget the terrible suffering we endured. + We had no blankets, and it was getting late in the fall. + Some of us were entirely barefooted, and our feet so sore + that we left stains of blood at every step. Deafness, too, + seized upon us so intensely, occasioned by our weak + condition, that we coud not hear the report of a gun fired + at a distance of only a few feet. + + At one place two of our men laid down their arms, declaring + they could carry them no farther, and would die if they + did not get water. We left them and went in search of some. + After following a dry branch several miles, we found + a muddy puddle from which we succeeded in getting half + a bucket full, and, although black and thick, it was life + for us and we guarded it with jealous eyes. We returned + to our comrades about daylight, and the water so refreshed + them they were able to resume the weary march. We travelled + on until we arrived at the Big Blue River, in Missouri, + on the bank of which we discovered a cabin about fifteen + miles from Independence. The occupants of the rude shanty + were women, seemingly very poor, but they freely offered us + a pot of pumpkin they were stewing. When they first saw us, + they were terribly frightened, because we looked more like + skeletons than living beings. They jumped on the bed while + we were greedily devouring the pumpkin, but we had to + refuse some salt meat which they had also proffered, + as our teeth were too sore to eat it. In a short time + two men came to the cabin and took three of our men + home with them. We had subsisted for eleven days on + one turkey, a coon, a crow, and some elm bark, with an + occasional bunch of wild grapes, and the pictures we + presented to these good people they will never, probably, + forget; we had not tasted bread or salt for thirty-two days. + + The next day our newly found friends secured horses and + guided us to Independence, all riding without saddles. + One of the party had gone on to notify the citizens of + our safety, and when we arrived general muster was going on, + the town was crowded, and when the people looked upon us + the most intense excitement prevailed. All business was + suspended; the entire population flocked around us to hear + the remarkable story of our adventures, and to render us + the assistance we so much needed. We were half-naked, + foot-sore, and haggard, presenting such a pitiable picture + that the greatest sympathy was immediately aroused in + our behalf. + + We then said that behind us on the Trail somewhere, fifteen + comrades were struggling toward Independence, or were + already dead from their sufferings. In a very few minutes + seven men with fifteen horses started out to rescue them. + + They were gone from Independence several days, but had the + good fortune to find all the men just in time to save them + from starvation and exhaustion. Two were discovered + a hundred miles from Independence, and the remainder + scattered along the Trail fifty miles further in their rear. + Not more than two of the unfortunate party were together. + The humane rescuers seemingly brought back nothing but + living skeletons wrapped in rags; but the good people of + the place vied with each other in their attentions, and + under their watchful care the sufferers rapidly recuperated. + + One would suppose that we had had enough of the great plains + after our first trip; not so, however, for in the spring + we started again on the same journey. Major Riley, with + four companies of regular soldiers, was detailed to escort + the Santa Fe traders' caravans to the boundary line between + the United States and Mexico, and we went along to recover + the money we had buried, the command having been ordered to + remain in camp to await our return until the 20th of October. + + We left Fort Leavenworth about the 10th of May, and were + soon again on the plains. Many of the troops had never + seen any buffalo before, and found great sport in wantonly + slaughtering them. At Walnut Creek we halted to secure + a cannon which had been thrown into that stream two seasons + previously, and succeeded in dragging it out. With a seine + made of brush and grape vine, we caught more fine fish than + we could possibly dispose of. One morning the camp was + thrown into the greatest state of excitement by a band of + Indians running an enormous herd of buffalo right into us. + The troops fired at them by platoons, killing hundreds + of them. + + We marched in two columns, and formed a hollow square + at night when we camped, in which all slept excepting + those on guard duty. Frequently some one would discover + a rattlesnake or a horned toad in bed with him, and it + did not take him a very long time to crawl out of his + blankets! + + On the 10th of July, we arrived at the dividing line + separating the two countries, and went into camp. The next + day Major Riley sent a squad of soldiers to escort myself + and another of our old party, who had helped bury the + ten thousand dollars, to find it. It was a few miles + further up the Arkansas than our camp, in the Mexican + limits, and when we reached the memorable spot on the + island,[20] we found the coin safe, but the water had + washed the earth away, and the silver was exposed to view + to excite the cupidity of any one passing that way; + there were not many travellers on that lonely route in + those days, however, and it would have been just as secure, + probably, had we simply poured it on the ground. + + We put the money in sacks and deposited it with Major Riley, + and, leaving the camp, started for Santa Fe with Captain + Bent as leader of the traders. We had not proceeded far + when our advanced guard met Indians. They turned, and when + within two hundred yards of us, one man named Samuel Lamme + was killed, his body being completely riddled with arrows. + His head was cut off, and all his clothes stripped from + his body. We had a cannon, but the Mexicans who hauled it + had tied it up in such a way that it could not be utilized + in time to effect anything in the first assault; but when + at last it was turned loose upon the Indians, they fled + in dismay at the terrible noise. + + The troops at the crossing of the Arkansas, hearing the + firing, came to our assistance. The next morning the + hills were covered by fully two thousand Indians, who had + evidently congregated there for the purpose of annihilating + us, and the coming of the soldiers was indeed fortunate; + for as soon as the cowardly savages discovered them + they fled. Major Riley accompanied us on our march for + a few days, and, seeing no more Indians, he returned to + his camp. + + We travelled on for a week, then met a hundred Mexicans + who were out on the plains hunting buffalo. They had + killed a great many and were drying the meat. We waited + until they were ready to return and then all started for + Santa Fe together. + + At Rabbit-Ear Mountain the Indians had constructed + breastworks in the brush, intending to fight it out there. + The Mexicans were in the advance and had one of their + number killed before discovering the enemy. We passed + Point of Rocks and camped on the river. One of the + Mexicans went out hunting and shot a huge panther; + next morning he asked a companion to go with him and help + skin the animal. They saw the Indians in the brush, and + the one who had killed the panther said to the other, + "Now for the mountains"; but his comrade retreated, + and was despatched by the savages almost within reach + of the column. + + We now decided to change our destination, intending to go + to Taos instead of Santa Fe, but the governor of the + Province sent out troops to stop us, as Taos was not a + place of entry. The soldiers remained with us a whole week, + until we arrived at Santa Fe, where we disposed of our goods + and soon began to make preparations for our return trip. + + When we were ready to start back, seven priests and a + number of wealthy families, comfortably fixed in carriages, + accompanied us. The Mexican government ordered Colonel + Viscarra of the army, with five troops of cavalry, + to guard us to the camp of Major Riley. + + We experienced no trouble until we arrived at the + Cimarron River. About sunset, just as we were preparing + to camp for the night, the sentinels saw a body of a + hundred Indians approaching; they fired at them and ran + to camp. Knowing they had been discovered, the Indians + came on and made friendly overtures; but the Pueblos who + who were with the command of Colonel Viscarra wanted to + fight them at once, saying the fellows meant mischief. + We declined to camp with them unless they would agree to + give up their arms; they pretended they were willing to + do so, when one of them put his gun at the breast of our + interpreter and pulled the trigger. In an instant a bloody + scene ensued; several of Viscarra's men were killed, + together with a number of mules. Finally the Indians + were whipped and tried to get away, but we chased them + some distance and killed thirty-five. Our friendly Pueblos + were delighted, and proceeded to scalp the savages, + hanging the bloody trophies on the points of their spears. + That night they indulged in a war-dance which lasted + until nearly morning. + + We were delighted to see a beautiful sunshiny day after + the horrors of the preceding night, and continued our march + without farther interruption, safely arriving at the camp + on the boundary line, where Major Riley was waiting for us, + as we supposed; but his time having expired the day before, + he had left for Fort Leavenworth. A courier was despatched + to him, however, as Colonel Viscarra desired to meet the + American commander and see his troops. The courier overtook + Major Riley a short distance away, and he halted for us + to come up. Both commands then went into camp, and spent + several days comparing the discipline of the armies of + the two nations, and having a general good time. + Colonel Viscarra greatly admired our small arms, and + took his leave in a very courteous manner. + + We arrived at Fort Leavenworth late in the season, and + from there we all scattered. I received my share of the + money we had cached on the island, and bade my comrades + farewell, only a few of whom I have ever seen since. + +Mr. Hitt in his notes of this same perilous trip says: + When the grass had sufficiently started to insure the + subsistence of our teams, our wagons were loaded with + a miscellaneous assortment of merchandise and the first + trader's caravan of wagons that ever crossed the plains + left Independence. Before we had travelled three weeks + on our journey, we were one evening confronted with the + novel fact of camping in a country where not a stick of + wood could be found. The grass was too green to burn, + and we were wondering how our fire could be started + with which to boil our coffee, or cook our bread. One of + our number, however, while diligently searching for + something to utilize, suddenly discovered scattered all + around him a large quantity of buffalo-chips, and he soon + had an excellent fire under way, his coffee boiling and + his bacon sizzling over the glowing coals. + + We arrived in Santa Fe without incident, and as ours + was the first train of wagons that ever traversed the + narrow streets of the quaint old town, it was, of course, + a great curiosity to the natives. + + After a few days' rest, sight-seeing, and purchasing stock + to replace our own jaded animals, preparations were made + for the return trip. All the money we had received for + our goods was in gold and silver, principally the latter, + in consequence of which, each member of the company had + about as much as he could conveniently manage, and, + as events turned out, much more than he could take care of. + + On the morning of the third day out, when we were not + looking for the least trouble, our entire herd was + stampeded, and we were left upon the prairie without + as much as a single mule to pursue the fast-fleeing + thieves. The Mexicans and Indians had come so suddenly + upon us, and had made such an effective dash, that we + stood like children who had broken their toys on a stone + at their feet. We were so unprepared for such a stampede + that the thieves did not approach within rifle-shot range + of the camp to accomplish their object; few of them + coming within sight, even. + + After the excitement had somewhat subsided and we began + to realize what had been done, it was decided that while + some should remain to guard the camp, others must go to + Santa Fe to see if they could not recover the stock. + The party that went to Santa Fe had no difficulty in + recognizing the stolen animals; but when they claimed them, + they were laughed at by the officials of the place. + They experienced no difficulty, however, in purchasing + the same stock for a small sum, which they at once did, + and hurried back to camp. By this unpleasant episode + we learned of the stealth and treachery of the miserable + people in whose country we were. We, therefore, took every + precaution to prevent a repetition of the affair, and + kept up a vigilant guard night and day. + + Matters progressed very well, and when we had travelled + some three hundred miles eastwardly, thinking we were + out of range of any predatory bands, as we had seen no + sign of any living thing, we relaxed our vigilance somewhat. + One morning, just before dawn, the whole earth seemed to + resound with the most horrible noises that ever greeted + human ears; every blade of grass appeared to re-echo + the horrid din. In a few moments every man was at his post, + rifle in hand, ready for any emergency, and almost + immediately a large band of Indians made their appearance, + riding within rifle-shot of the wagons. A continuous + battle raged for several hours, the savages discharging + a shot, then scampering off out of range as fast as + their ponies could carry them. Some, more brave than + others would venture closer to the corral, and one of these + got the contents of an old-fashioned flint-lock musket + in his bowels. + + We were careful not all to fire at the same time, and + several of our party, who were watching the effects of + our shots declared they could see the dust fly out of + the robes of the Indians as the bullets struck them. + It was learned afterward that a number of the savages + were wounded, and that several had died. Many were armed + with bows and arrows only, and in order to do any execution + were obliged to come near the corral. The Indians soon + discovered they were getting the worst of the fight, and, + having run off all the stock, abandoned the conflict, + leaving us in possession of the camp, but it can hardly + be said masters of the situation. + + There we were; thirty-five pioneers upon the wild prairie, + surrounded by a wily and terribly cruel foe, without + transportation of any character but our own legs, and with + five hundred miles of dangerous, trackless waste between + us and the settlements. We had an abundance of money, + but the stuff was absolutely worthless for the present, + as there was nothing we could buy with it. + + After the last savage had ridden away into the sand hills + on the opposite side of the river, each one of us had a + thrilling story to relate of his individual narrow escapes. + Though none was killed, many received wounds, the scars + of which they carried through life. I was wounded six + times. Once was in the thigh by an arrow, and once while + loading my rifle I had my ramrod shot off close to the + muzzle of my piece, the ball just grazing my shoulder, + tearing away a small portion of the skin. Others had + equally curious experiences, but none were seriously injured. + + After the excitement incident to the battle had subsided, + the realization of our condition fully dawned upon us. + When we were first robbed, we were only a short distance + from Santa Fe, where our money easily procured other stock; + now there were three hundred miles behind us to that place, + and the picture was anything but pleasant to contemplate. + To transport supplies for thirty-five men seemed impossible. + Our money was now a burden greater than we could bear; + what was to be done with it? We would have no use for it + on our way to the settlements, yet the idea of abandoning + it seemed hard to accept. A vigilant guard was kept up + that day and night, during which time we all remained + in camp, fearing a renewal of the attack. + + The next morning, as there were no apparent signs of + the Indians, it was decided to reconnoitre the surrounding + country in the hope of recovering a portion, at least, + of our lost stock, which we thought might have become + separated from the main herd. Three men were detailed + to stay in the old camp to guard it while the remainder, + in squads, scoured the hills and ravines. Not a horse + or mule was visible anywhere; the stampede had been + complete--not even the direction the animals had taken + could be discovered. + + It was late in the afternoon when I, having left my + companions to continue the search and returning to camp + alone, had gotten within a mile of it, that I thought I saw + a horse feeding upon an adjoining hill. I at once turned + my steps in that direction, and had proceeded but a short + distance when three Indians jumped from their ambush in + the grass between me and the wagons and ran after me. + The men in camp had been watching my every movement, + and as soon as they saw the savages were chasing me, + they started in pursuit, running at their greatest speed + to my rescue. + + The savages soon overtook me, and the first one that + came up tackled me, but in an instant found himself flat + on the ground. Before he could get up, the second one + shared the same fate. By this time the third one arrived, + and the two I had thrown grabbed me by the legs so that + I could no longer handle myself, while the third one had + a comparatively easy task in pushing me over. Fortunately, + my head fell toward the camp and my fast-approaching + comrades. The two Indians held my legs to prevent my + rising, while the third one, who was standing over me, + drew from his belt a tomahawk, and shrugging his head + in his blanket, at the same time looking over his shoulder + at my friends, with a tremendous effort and that peculiar + grunt of all savages, plunged his hatchet, as he supposed, + into my head, but instead of scuffling to free myself + and rise to my feet, I merely turned my head to one side + and the wicked weapon was buried in the ground, just + grazing my ear. + + The Indian, seeing that he had missed, raised his hatchet + and once more shrugging his head in his blanket, and + turning to look over his other shoulder, attempted to + strike again, but the blow was evaded by a sudden toss + of his intended victim's head. Not satisfied with two + abortive trials, the third attempt must be made to brain me, + and repeating the same motions, with a great "Ugh!" he + seemed to put all his strength into the blow, which, like + the others, missed, and spent its force in the earth. + By this time the rescuing party had come near enough to + prevent the savage from risking another effort, and he then + addressed the other Indians in Spanish, which I understood, + saying, "We must run or the Americans will kill us!" + and loosening his grasp, he scampered off with his + companions as fast as his legs could take him, hurried on + by several pieces of lead fired from the old flintlocks + of the traders. + + By sundown every man had returned to the forlorn camp, + but not an animal had been recovered. Then, with tired + limbs and weary hearts, we took turns at guarding the + wagons through the long night. The next morning each man + shouldered his rifle, and having had his proportion of + the provisions and cooking utensils assigned him, + we broke camp, and again turned to take a last look at + the country behind us, in which we had experienced so much + misfortune, and started on foot for our long march through + the dangerous region ahead of us. + + Scarcely had we gotten out of sight of our abandoned camp, + when one of the party, happening to turn his eyes in that + direction, saw a large volume of smoke rising in the + vicinity; then we knew that all of our wagons, and + everything we had been forced to leave, were burning up. + This proved that, although we had been unable to discover + any signs of Indians, they had been lurking around us + all the time, and this fact warned us to exercise the + utmost vigilance in guarding our persons. + + Though our burdens were very heavy, the first few days + were passed without anything to relieve the dreadful + monotony of our wearisome march; but each succeeding + twenty-four hours our loads became visibly lighter, + as our supplies were rapidly diminishing. It had already + become apparent that even in the exercise of the greatest + frugality, our stock of provisions would not last until + we could reach the settlements, so some of the most expert + shots were selected to hunt for game; but even in this + they were not successful, the very birds seeming to have + abandoned the country in its extreme desolation. + + After eight days' travel, despite our most rigid economy, + an inventory showed that there was less than one hundred + pounds of flour left. Day after day the hunters repeated + the same old story: "No game!" For two weeks the allowance + of flour to each individual was but a spoonful, stirred + in water and taken three times a day. + + One afternoon, however, fortune smiled upon the weary party; + one of the hunters returned to camp with a turkey he had + killed. It was soon broiling over a fire which willing + hands had kindled, and our drooping spirits were revived + for a while. While the turkey was cooking, a crow flew + over the camp, and one of the company, seizing a gun, + despatched it, and in a few moments it, too, was sizzling + along with the other bird. + + Now, in addition to the pangs of hunger, a scarcity of + water confronted us, and one day we were compelled to + resort to a buffalo-wallow and suck the moist clay where + the huge animals had been stamping in the mud. We were + much reduced in strength, yet each day added new + difficulties to our forlorn situation. Some became so weak + and exhausted that it was with the greatest effort they + could travel at all. To divide the company and leave + the more feeble behind to starve, or to be murdered by + the merciless savages, was not considered for a moment; + but one alternative remained, and that was speedily accepted. + As soon as a convenient camping-ground could be found, + a halt was made, shelter established, and things made as + comfortable as possible. Here the weakest remained to rest, + while some of the strongest scoured the surrounding country + in search of game. During this temporary halt the hunters + were more successful than before, having killed two + buffaloes, besides some smaller animals, in one morning. + Again the natural dry fuel of the prairies was called + into requisition, and juicy steak was once more broiling + over the fire. + + With an abundance to eat and a few days' rest, the whole + company revived and were enabled to renew their march + homeward. We were now in the buffalo range, and every day + the hunters were fortunate enough to kill one or more of + the immense animals, thus keeping our larder in excellent + condition, and starvation averted. + + Doubting whether our good fortune in relation to food + would continue for the remainder of our march, and our + money becoming very cumbersome, it was decided by a majority + that at the first good place we came to we would bury it + and risk its being stolen by our enemies. When not more + than half of our journey had been accomplished, we came + to an island in the river to which we waded, and there, + between two large trees, dug a hole and deposited our + treasure. We replaced the sod over the spot, taking the + utmost precaution to conceal every sign of having disturbed + the ground. Though no Indians had been seen for several + days, a sharp lookout was kept in all directions for fear + that some lurking savage might have been watching our + movements. This task finished, with much lighter burdens, + but more anxious than ever, we again took up our march + eastwardly, and, thus relieved, were able to carry a + greater quantity of provisions. + + Having journeyed until we supposed we were within a few + miles of the settlements, some of our number, scarcely able + to travel, thought the best course to pursue would be to + divide the company; one portion to press on, the weaker + ones to proceed by easier stages, and when the advance + arrived at the settlements, they were to send back a relief + for those plodding on wearily behind them. Soon a few + who were stronger than the others reached Independence, + Missouri, and immediately sent a party with horses to + bring in their comrades; so, at last, all got safely to + their homes. + +In the spring of 1829, Major Bennett Riley of the United States army +was ordered with four companies of the Sixth Regular Infantry to +march out on the Trail as the first military escort ever sent for +the protection of the caravans of traders going and returning between +Western Missouri and Santa Fe. Captain Philip St. George Cooke, +of the Dragoons, accompanied the command, and kept a faithful journal +of the trip, from which, and the official report of Major Riley to +the Secretary of War, I have interpolated here copious extracts. + +The journal of Captain Cooke states that the battalion marched +from Fort Leavenworth, which was then called a cantonment, and, +strange to say, had been abandoned by the Third Infantry on account +of its unhealthiness. It was the 5th of June that Riley crossed +the Missouri at the cantonment, and recrossed the river again at +a point a little above Independence, in order to avoid the Kaw, +or Kansas, which had no ferry. + +After five days' marching, the command arrived at Round Grove, where +the caravan had been ordered to rendezvous and wait for the escort. +The number of traders aggregated about seventy-nine men, and their +train consisted of thirty-eight wagons drawn by mules and horses, +the former preponderating. Five days' marching, at an average of +fifteen miles a day, brought them to Council Grove. Leaving the +Grove, in a short time Cow Creek was reached, which at that date +abounded in fish; many of which, says the journal, "weighed several +pounds, and were caught as fast as the line could be handled." +The captain does not describe the variety to which he refers; +probably they were the buffalo--a species of sucker, to be found +to-day in every considerable stream in Kansas. + +Having reached the Upper Valley,[21] bordered by high sand hills, +the journal continues: + + From the tops of the hills, we saw far away, in almost + every direction, mile after mile of prairie, blackened + with buffalo. One morning, when our march was along the + natural meadows by the river, we passed through them for + miles; they opened in front and closed continually in + the rear, preserving a distance scarcely over three hundred + paces. On one occasion, a bull had approached within + two hundred yards without seeing us, until he ascended + the river bank; he stood a moment shaking his head, and + then made a charge at the column. Several officers + stepped out and fired at him, two or three dogs also rushed + to meet him; but right onward he came, snorting blood + from mouth and nostril at every leap, and, with the speed + of a horse and the momentum of a locomotive, dashed + between two wagons, which the frightened oxen nearly upset; + the dogs were at his heels and soon he came to bay, and, + with tail erect, kicked violently for a moment, and then + sank in death--the muscles retaining the dying rigidity + of tension. + +About the middle of July, the command arrived at its destination-- +Chouteau's Island, then on the boundary line between the United States +and New Mexico. + + Our orders were to march no further; and, as a protection + to the trade, it was like the establishment of a ferry + to the mid-channel of a river. + + Up to this time, traders had always used mules or horses. + Our oxen were an experiment, and it succeeded admirably; + they even did better when water was very scarce, which is + an important consideration. + + A few hours after the departure of the trading company, + as we enjoyed a quiet rest on a hot afternoon, we saw + beyond the river a number of horsemen riding furiously + toward our camp. We all flocked out of the tents to hear + the news, for they were soon recognized as traders. + They stated that the caravan had been attacked, about + six miles off in the sand hills, by an innumerable host + of Indians; that some of their companions had been killed; + and they had run, of course, for help. There was not a + moment's hesitation; the word was given, and the tents + vanished as if by magic. The oxen which were grazing + near by were speedily yoked to the wagons, and into the + river we marched. Then I deemed myself the most unlucky + of men; a day or two before, while eating my breakfast, + with my coffee in a tin cup--notorious among chemists and + campaigners for keeping it hot--it was upset into my shoe, + and on pulling off the stocking, it so happened that the + skin came with it. Being thus hors de combat, I sought to + enter the combat on a horse, which was allowed; but I was + put in command of the rear guard to bring up the baggage + train. It grew late, and the wagons crossed slowly; + for the river unluckily took that particular time to + rise fast, and, before all were over, we had to swim it, + and by moonlight. We reached the encampment at one o'clock + at night. All was quiet, and remained so until dawn, + when, at the sound of our bugles, the pickets reported + they saw a number of Indians moving off. On looking + around us, we perceived ourselves and the caravan in the + most unfavorable defenceless situation possible--in the + area of a natural amphitheatre of sand hills, about fifty + feet high, and within gun-shot all around. There was + the narrowest practicable entrance and outlet. + + We ascertained that some mounted traders, in spite of all + remonstrance and command, had ridden on in advance, and + when in the narrow pass beyond this spot, had been suddenly + beset by about fifty Indians; all fled and escaped save one, + who, mounted on a mule, was abandoned by his companions, + overtaken, and slain. The Indians, perhaps, equalled the + traders in number, but notwithstanding their extraordinary + advantage of ground, dared not attack them when they + made a stand among their wagons; and the latter, all well + armed, were afraid to make a single charge, which would + have scattered their enemies like sheep. + + Having buried the poor fellow's body, and killed an ox for + breakfast, we left this sand hollow, which would soon have + been roasting hot, and advancing through the defile--of + which we took care to occupy the commanding ground-- + proceeded to escort the traders at least one day's march + further. + + When the next morning broke clear and cloudless, the command + was confronted by one of those terrible hot winds, still + frequent on the plains. The oxen with lolling tongues + were incapable of going on; the train was halted, and the + suffering animals unyoked, but they stood motionless, + making no attempt to graze. Late that afternoon, the + caravan pushed on for about ten miles, where was the + sandy bed of a dry creek, and fortunately, not far from + the Trail, up the stream, a pool of water and an acre + or two of grass was discovered. On the surface of the + water floated thick the dead bodies of small fish, which + the intense heat of the sun that day had killed. + + Arriving at this point, it was determined to march no + further into the Mexican territory. At the first light + next day we were in motion to return to the river and + the American line, and no further adventure befell us. + +While permanently encamped at Chouteau's Island, which is situated +in the Arkansas River, the term of enlistment of four of the soldiers +of Captain Cooke's command expired, and they were discharged. +In his journal he says: + + Contrary to all advice they determined to return to + Missouri. After having marched several hundred miles + over a prairie country, being often on high hills + commanding a vast prospect, without seeing a human being + or a sign of one, and, save the trail we followed, not + the slightest indication that the country had ever been + visited by man, it was exceedingly difficult to credit + that lurking foes were around us, and spying our motions. + It was so with these men; and being armed, they set out + on the first of August on foot for the settlements. + That same night three of the four returned. They reported + that, after walking about fifteen miles, they were + surrounded by thirty mounted Indians. A wary old soldier + of their number succeeded in extricating them before any + hostile act had been committed; but one of them, highly + elated and pleased at their forbearance, insisted on + returning among them to give them tobacco and shake hands. + In this friendly act he was shot down. The Indians + stripped him in an incredibly short time, and as quickly + dispersed to avoid a shot; and the old soldier, after + cautioning the others to reserve their fire, fired among + them, and probably with some effect. Had the others done + the same, the Indians would have rushed upon them before + they could have reloaded. They managed to make good + their retreat in safety to our camp. + + We were instructed to wait here for the return of the + caravan, which was expected early in October. + Our provisions consisted of salt and half rations of flour, + besides a reserve of fifteen days' full rations--as to the + rest, we were dependent upon hunting. When the buffalo + became scarce, or the grass bad, we marched to other + ground, thus roving up and down the river for eighty + miles. The first thing we did after camping was to dig + and construct, with flour barrels, a well in front of + each company; water was always found at the depth of + from two to four feet varying with the corresponding + height of the river, but clear and cool. Next we would + build sod fire-places; these, with network platforms of + buffalo hide, used for smoking and drying meat, formed a + tolerable additional defence, at least against mounted men. + + Hunting was a military duty, done by detail, parties of + fifteen or twenty going out with a wagon. Completely + isolated, and beyond support or even communication, + in the midst of many thousands of Indians, the utmost + vigilance was maintained. Officer of the guard every + fourth night; I was always awake and generally in motion + the whole time of duty. Night alarms were frequent; when, + as we all slept in our clothes, we were accustomed to + assemble instantly, and with scarcely a word spoken, + take our places in the grass in front of each face of + the camp, where, however wet, we sometimes lay for hours. + + While encamped a few miles below Chouteau's Island, on the + eleventh of August, an alarm was given, and we were under + arms for an hour until daylight. During the morning, + Indians were seen a mile or two off, leading their horses + through the ravines. A captain, however, with eighteen + men was sent across the river after buffalo, which we saw + half a mile distant. In his absence, a large body of + Indians came galloping down the river, as if to charge + the camp, but the cattle were secured in good time. + A company, of which I was lieutenant, was ordered to + cross the river and support the first. We waded in some + disorder through the quicksands and current, and just + as we neared a dry sandbar in the middle, a volley was + fired at us by a band of Indians, who that moment rode + to the water's edge. The balls whistled very near, + but without damage; I felt an involuntary twitch of + the neck, and wishing to return the compliment instantly, + I stooped down, and the company fired over my head, + with what execution was not perceived, as the Indians + immediately retired out of our view. This had passed + in half a minute, and we were astonished to see, a little + above, among some bushes on the same bar, the party we had + been sent to support, and we heard that they had abandoned + one of the hunters, who had been killed. We then saw, + on the bank we had just left, a formidable body of the + enemy in close order, and hoping to surprise them, + we ascended the bed of the river. In crossing the channel + we were up to the arm-pits, but when we emerged on the + bank, we found that the Indians had detected the movement, + and retreated. Casting eyes beyond the river, I saw a + number of the Indians riding on both sides of a wagon + and team which had been deserted, urging the animals + rapidly toward the hills. At this juncture the adjutant + sent an order to cross and recover the body of the slain + hunter, who was an old soldier and a favourite. He was + brought in with an arrow still transfixing his breast, + but his scalp was gone. + + On the fourteenth of October, we again marched on our + return. Soon after, we saw smokes arise over the distant + hills; evidently signals, indicating to different parties + of Indians our separation and march, but whether preparatory + to an attack upon the Mexicans or ourselves, or rather + our immense drove of animals, we could only guess. + + Our march was constantly attended by great collections + of buffalo, which seemed to have a general muster, perhaps + for migration. Sometimes a hundred or two--a fragment + from the multitude--would approach within two or three + hundred yards of the column, and threaten a charge which + would have proved disastrous to the mules and their drivers. + + Under the friendly cover of the shades of evening, on the + eighth of November, our tatterdemalion veterans marched + into Fort Leavenworth, and took quiet possession of the + miserable huts and sheds left by the Third Infantry in + the preceding May. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. +A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. + + + +As early as November, 1842, a rumour was current in Santa Fe, and +along the line of the Trail, that parties of Texans had left the +Republic for the purpose of attacking and robbing the caravans to +the United States which were owned wholly by Mexicans. In consequence +of this, several Americans were accused of being spies and acting +in collusion with the Texans; many were arrested and carried to +Santa Fe, but nothing could be proved against them, and the rumours +of the intended purposes of the Texans died out. + +Very early in May, however, of the following year, 1843, a certain +Colonel Snively did organize a small force, comprising about two +hundred men, which he led from Northern Texas, his home, to the +line of the Trail, with the intention of attacking and robbing the +Mexican caravans which were expected to cross the plains that month +and in June. + +When he arrived at the Arkansas River, he was there reinforced by +another Texan colonel, named Warfield with another small command. +Gregg says: + + This officer, with about twenty men, had some time + previously attacked the village of Mora, on the Mexican + frontier, killing five men, and driving off a number + of horses. They were afterward followed by a party of + Mexicans, however, who stampeded and carried away, not only + their own horses, but those of the Texans. Being left + afoot, the latter burned their saddles, and walked to + Bent's Fort, where they were disbanded; whence Warfield + passed to Snively's camp, as before mentioned. + + The Texans now advanced along the Santa Fe Trail, beyond + the sand hills south of the Arkansas, when they discovered + that a party of Mexicans had passed toward the river. + They soon came upon them, and a skirmish ensuing, eighteen + Mexicans were killed, and as many wounded, five of whom + afterward died. The Texans suffered no injury, though + the Mexicans were a hundred in number. The rest were all + taken prisoners except two, who escaped and bore the news + to General Armijo, who was encamped with a large force + at Cold Spring, one hundred and forty miles beyond. + +Kit Carson figured conspicuously in this fight, or, rather, immediately +afterward. His recital differs somewhat from Gregg's account, +but the stories substantially agree. Kit said that in April, +previously to the assault upon Armijo's caravan, he had hired out +as hunter to Bent's and Colonel St. Vrain's train caravan, which was +then making its annual tour eastwardly. When he arrived at the +crossing of Walnut Creek,[22] he found the encampment of Captain +Philip St. George Cooke, of the United States army, who had been +detailed with his command to escort the caravans to the New Mexican +boundary. His force consisted of four troops of dragoons. +The captain informed Carson that coming on behind him from the States +was a caravan belonging to a very wealthy Mexican. + +It was a richly loaded train, and in order to insure its better +protection while passing through that portion of the country infested +by the blood-thirsty Comanches and Apaches, the majordomo in charge +had hired one hundred Mexicans as a guard. The teamsters and others +belonging to the caravan had heard that a large body of Texans were +lying in wait for them, and intended to murder and plunder them in +retaliation for the way Armijo had treated some Texan prisoners +he had got in his power at Santa Fe some time before. Of course, +it was the duty of the United States troops to escort this caravan +to the New Mexico line, but there their duty would end, as they +had no authority to cross the border. The Mexicans belonging to +the caravan were afraid they would be at the mercy of the Texans +after they had parted company with the soldiers, and when Kit Carson +met them, they, knowing the famous trapper and mountaineer well, +asked him to take a letter to Armijo, who was then governor of +New Mexico, and resided in Santa Fe, for which service they would +give him three hundred dollars in advance. The letter contained +a statement of the fears they entertained, and requested the general +to send Mexican troops at once to meet them. + +Carson, who was then not blessed with much money, eagerly accepted +the task, and immediately started on the trail for Bent's Fort, +in company with another old mountaineer and bosom friend named Owens. +In a short time they arrived at the Fort, where Owens decided not +to go any further, because they were informed by the men at Bent's +that the Utes had broken out, and were scattered along the Trail +at the most dangerous points, and he was fearful that his life +would be endangered if he attempted to make Santa Fe. + +Kit, however, nothing daunted, and determined to do the duty for +which he had been rewarded so munificently, started out alone on +his perilous trip. Mr. Bent kindly furnished him with the best and +fastest horse he had in his stables, but Kit, realizing the dangers +to which he would be exposed, walked, leading his animal, ready to +mount him at a moment's notice; thus keeping him in a condition that +would enable Carson to fly and make his escape if the savages tried +to capture him. His knowledge of the Indian character, and wonderful +alertness in moments of peril, served him well; for he reached the +village of the hostile Indians without their discovering his proximity. +Hiding himself in a rocky, bush-covered canyon, he stayed there until +night came on, when he continued his journey in the darkness. + +He took the trail to Taos, where he arrived in two or three days, +and presented his letter to the alcalde, to be sent on to Santa Fe +by special messenger. + +He was to remain at Taos until an answer from the governor arrived, +and then return with it as rapidly as possible to the train. +While at Taos, he was informed that Armijo had already sent out +a company of one hundred soldiers to meet the caravan, and was to +follow in person, with a thousand more. + +This first hundred were those attacked by Colonel Snively, as related +by Gregg, who says that two survived, who carried the news of the +disaster to Armijo at Cold Spring; but Carson told me that only one +got away, by successfully catching, during the heat of the fight, +a Texan pony already saddled, that was grazing around loose. +With him he made Armijo's camp and related to the Mexican general +the details of the terribly unequal battle. Armijo, upon receipt +of the news, "turned tail," and retreated to Santa Fe. + +Before Armijo left Santa Fe with his command, he had received the +letter which Carson had brought from the caravan, and immediately +sent one in reply for Carson to carry back, thinking that the old +mountaineer might reach the wagons before he did. Carson, with his +usual promptness, started on the Trail for the caravan, and came up +with it while it was escorted by the dragoons, thus saving it from +the fate that the Texans intended for it, as they dared not attempt +any interference in the presence of the United States troops. + +The rumour current in Santa Fe in relation to a probable raid of +parties of Texans along the line of the Trail, for the purpose of +attacking and robbing the caravans of the wealthy Mexican traders, +was received with so little credence by the prominent citizens of +the country, that several native trains left for the Missouri River +without their proprietors having the slightest apprehension that +they would not reach their destination, and make the return trip +in safety. + +Among those who had no fear of marauders was Don Antonio Jose Chavez, +who, in February, 1843, left Santa Fe for Independence with an outfit +consisting of a number of wagons, his private coach, several servants +and other retainers. Don Antonio was a very wealthy Mexican engaged +in a general mercantile business on a large scale in Albuquerque, +who made all his purchases of goods in St. Louis, which was then +the depot of supplies for the whole mountain region. He necessarily +carried with him on these journeys a large amount of money, in silver, +which was the legal currency of the country, and made but one trip +yearly to replenish the stock of goods required in his extensive +trade in all parts of Mexico. + +Upon his arrival at Westport Landing, as Kansas City was then called, +he would take the steamboat for St. Louis, leaving his coach, wagons, +servants, and other appointments of his caravan behind him in the +village of Westport, a few miles from the Landing. + +Westport was at that time, like all steamboat towns in the era of +water navigation, the harbor of as great a lot of ruffians as ever +escaped the gallows. There was especially a noted gang of land pirates, +the members of which had long indulged in speculations regarding the +probable wealth of the Mexican Don, and how much coin he generally +carried with him. They knew that it must be considerable from the +quantity of goods that always came by boat with him from St. Louis. + +At last a devilish plot was arranged to get hold of the rich trader's +money. Nine men were concerned in the robbery, nearly all of whom +were residents of the vicinity of Westport; their leader was one +John McDaniel, recently from Texas, from which government he claimed +to hold a captain's commission, and one of their number was a doctor. +It was evidently the intention of this band to join Warfield's party +on the Arkansas, and engage in a general robbery of the freight +caravans of the Santa Fe Trail belonging to the Mexicans; but they +had determined that Chavez should be their first victim, and in order +to learn when he intended to leave Santa Fe on his next trip east, +they sent their spies out on the great highway. + +They did not dare attempt their contemplated robbery, and murder +if necessary, in the State of Missouri, for there were too many +citizens of the border who would never have permitted such a thing +to go unpunished; so they knew that their only chance was to effect it +in the Indian country of Kansas, where there was little or no law. + +Cow Creek, which debouches into the Arkansas at Hutchinson, where +the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad crosses the historic +little stream,[23] was, like Big and Little Coon creeks, a most +dangerous point in the transcontinental passage of freight caravans +and overland coaches, in the days of the commerce of the prairies. +It was on this purling little prairie brook that McDaniel's band +lay in wait for the arrival of the ill-fated Don Antonio, whose +imposing equipage came along, intending to encamp on the bank, +one of the usual stopping-places on the route. + +The Don was taken a few miles south of the Trail, and his baggage +rifled. All of his party were immediately murdered, but the wealthy +owner of the caravan was spared for a few moments in order to make +a confession of where his money was concealed, after which he was +shot down in cold blood, and his body thrown into a ravine. + +It appears, however, that the ruffians had not completed their +bloody work so effectually as they thought; for one of the Mexican's +teamsters escaped, and, making his way to Leavenworth, reported +the crime, and was soon on his way back to the Trail, guiding a +detachment of United States troops in pursuit of the murderers. + +John Hobbs, scout, trapper, and veteran plainsman, happened to be +hunting buffalo on Pawnee Fork, on the ground where Larned is now +situated, with a party from Bent's Fort. They were just on the point +of crossing the Trail at the mouth of the Pawnee when the soldiers +from Fort Leavenworth came along, and from them Hobbs and his +companions first learned of the murder of Chavez on Cow Creek. +As the men who were out hunting were all familiar with every foot +of the region they were then in, the commanding officer of the troops +induced them to accompany him in his search for the murderers. + +Hobbs and his men cheerfully accepted the invitation, and in about +four days met the band of cut-throats on the broad Trail, they little +dreaming that the government had taken a hand in the matter. +The band tried to escape by flight, but Hobbs shot the doctor's horse +from under him, and a soldier killed another member of the band, +when the remainder surrendered. + +The money, about twelve or fifteen thousand dollars,[24] was all +recovered, and the murderers taken to St. Louis, where some were hung +and some imprisoned, the doctor escaping the death penalty by turning +state's evidence. His sentence was incarceration in the penitentiary, +from which he was pardoned after remaining there two years. +Hobbs met the doctor some years after in San Francisco. He was then +leading an honest life, publishing a newspaper, and begged his captor +not to expose him. + +The money taken from the robbers was placed in charge of Colonel Owens, +a friend of the Chavez family and a leading Santa Fe trader. +He continued on to the river, purchased a stock of goods, and +sent back the caravan to Santa Fe in charge of Doctor Conley of +Boonville, Missouri. + +Arriving at his destination, the widow of the deceased Chavez +employed the good doctor to sell the goods and take the sole +supervision of her immense business interests, and there is a touch +of romance attached to the terrible Kansas tragedy, which lies in +the fact that the doctor in about two years married the rich widow, +and lived very happily for about a decade, dying then on one of the +large estates in New Mexico, which he had acquired by his fortunate +union with the amiable Mexican lady. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. +MEXICO DECLARES WAR. + + + +Mexico declared war against the United States in April, 1846. In the +following May, Congress passed an act authorizing the President to +call into the field fifty thousand volunteers, designed to operate +against Mexico at three distinct points, and consisting of the +Southern Wing, or the Army of Occupation, the Army of the Centre, +and the Army of the West, the latter to direct its march upon the +city of Santa Fe. The original plan was, however, somewhat changed, +and General Kearney, who commanded the Army of the West, divided his +forces into three separate commands. The first he led in person +to the Pacific coast. One thousand volunteers, under command of +Colonel A. W. Doniphan, were to make a descent upon the State of +Chihuahua, while the remainder and greater part of the forces, under +Colonel Sterling Price, were to garrison Santa Fe after its capture. + +There is a pretty fiction told of the breaking out of the war +between Mexico and the United States. Early in the spring of 1846, +before it was known or even conjectured that a state of war would be +declared to exist between this government and Mexico, a caravan +of twenty-nine traders, on their way from Independence to Santa Fe, +beheld, just after a storm and a little before sunset, a perfectly +distinct image of the Bird of Liberty, the American eagle, on the +disc of the sun. When they saw it they simultaneously and almost +involuntarily exclaimed that in less than twelve months the Eagle +of Liberty would spread his broad plumes over the plains of the West, +and that the flag of our country would wave over the cities of +New Mexico and Chihuahua. The student of the classics will remember +that just before the assassination of Julius Caesar, both Brutus +and Cassius, while in their places in the Roman Senate, saw chariots +of fire in the sky. One story is as true, probably, as the other, +though separated by centuries of time. + +The Army of the West, under General Stephen W. Kearney, consisted of +two batteries of artillery, commanded by Major Clark; three squadrons +of the First United States Dragoons, commanded by Major Sumner; +the First Regiment of Missouri Cavalry, commanded by Colonel Doniphan, +and two companies of infantry, commanded by Captain Aubrey. +This force marched in detached columns from Fort Leavenworth, and +on the 1st of August, 1846, concentrated in camp on the Santa Fe +Trail, nine miles below Bent's Fort. + +Accompanying the expedition was a party of the United States +topographical engineers, under command of Lieutenant W. H. Emory.[25] +In writing of this expedition, so far as its march relates to the +Old Santa Fe Trail, I shall quote freely from Emory's report and +Doniphan's historian.[26] + +The practicability of marching a large army over the waste, +uncultivated, uninhabited prairie regions of the West was universally +regarded as problematical, but the expedition proved completely +successful. Provisions were conveyed in wagons, and beef-cattle +driven along for the use of the men. These animals subsisted +entirely by grazing. To secure them from straying off at night, +they were driven into corrals formed of the wagons, or tethered to +an iron picket-pin driven into the ground about fifteen inches. +At the outset of the expedition many laughable scenes took place. +Our horses were generally wild, fiery, and unused to military +trappings and equipments. Amidst the fluttering of banners, +the sounding of bugles, the rattling of artillery, the clattering +of sabres and also of cooking utensils, some of them took fright +and scampered pell-mell over the wide prairie. Rider, arms and +accoutrements, saddles, saddle-bags, tin cups, and coffee-pots, +were frequently left far behind in the chase. No very serious or +fatal accident, however, occurred from this cause, and all was +right as soon as the affrighted animals were recovered. + +The Army of the West was, perhaps, composed of as fine material as +any other body of troops then in the field. The volunteer corps +consisted almost entirely of young men of the country. + +On the 9th of July, a separate detachment of the troops arrived at +the Little Arkansas, where the Santa Fe Trail crosses that stream-- +now in McPherson County, Kansas. The mosquitoes, gnats, and black +flies swarmed in that locality and nearly drove the men and animals +frantic. While resting there, a courier came from the commands +of General Kearney and Colonel Doniphan, stating that their men +were in a starving condition, and asking for such provisions as +could be spared. Lieutenant-Colonel Ruff of Doniphan's regiment, +in command of the troops now camped on the Little Arkansas, was +almost destitute himself. He had sent couriers forward to Pawnee Fork +to stop a train of provisions at that point and have it wait there +until he came up with his force, and he now directed the courier from +Kearney to proceed to the same place and halt as many wagons loaded +with supplies, as would suffice to furnish the three detachments +with rations. One of the couriers, in attempting to ford the fork +of the Pawnee, which was bank-full, was drowned. His body was found +and given a military funeral; he was the first man lost on the +expedition after it had reached the great plains, one having been +drowned in the Missouri, at Fort Leavenworth, before the troops left. + +The author of _Doniphan's Expedition_ says: + In approaching the Arkansas, a landscape of the most + imposing and picturesque nature makes its appearance. + While the green, glossy undulations of the prairie to + the right seem to spread out in infinite succession, + like waves subsiding after a storm, and covered with + herds of gambolling buffalo, on the left, towering to + the height of seventy-five to a hundred feet, rise the + sun-gilt summits of the sand hills, along the base of + which winds the broad, majestic river, bespeckled with + verdant islets, thickly beset with cottonwood timber, + the sand hills resembling heaps of driven snow. +I refer to this statement to show how wonderfully the settlement +of the region has changed the physical aspect of that portion +bordering the Arkansas River. Now those sand hills are covered +with verdure, and this metamorphosis has taken place within the +last thirty years; for the author of this work well remembers how +the great sand dunes used to shine in the sunlight, when he first +saw them a third of a century ago. In coming from Fort Leavenworth +up the Smoky Hill route to the Santa Fe Trail, where the former +joined the latter at Pawnee Rock, the contour of the Arkansas +could be easily traced by the white sand hills referred to, +long before it was reached. + +On the 15th of July the combined forces formed a junction at +Pawnee Fork, now within the city limits of Larned, Kansas. The river +was impassable, but General Kearney, with the characteristic energy +of his family, determined not to be delayed, and to that end caused +great trees to be cut down and their trunks thrown across the stream, +over which the army passed, carrying in their arms the sick, the +baggage, tents, and other paraphernalia; the animals being forced +to swim. The empty bodies of the wagons, fastened to their running +gear, were floated across by means of ropes, and hauled up the +slippery bank by the troops. This required two whole days; and on +the morning of the 17th, not an accident having occurred, the entire +column was en route again, the infantry, as is declared in the +official reports, keeping pace with the cavalry right along. +Their feet, however, became terribly blistered, and, like the +Continentals at Valley Forge, their tracks were marked with blood. + +In a day or two after the command had left Pawnee Fork, while camping +in a beautiful spot on the bank of the Arkansas, an officer, Major +Howard, who had been sent forward to Santa Fe some time previously +by the general to learn something of the feeling of the people +in relation to submitting to the government of the United States, +returned and reported + + that the common people, or plebeians, were inclined to + favour the conditions of peace proposed by General Kearney; + viz. that if they would lay down their arms and take the + oath of allegiance to the government of the United States, + they should, to all intents and purposes, become citizens + of the same republic, receiving the protection and enjoying + the liberties guaranteed to other American citizens; but + that the patricians who held the offices and ruled the + country were hostile, and were making warlike preparations. + He added, further, that two thousand three hundred men + were already armed for the defence of the capital, and + that others were assembling at Taos. +This intelligence created quite a sensation in camp, and it was +believed, and earnestly hoped, that the entrance of the troops +into Santa Fe would be desperately opposed; such is the pugnacious +character of the average American the moment he dons the uniform +of a soldier. + +The army arrived at the Cimarron crossing of the Arkansas on the 20th, +and during the march of nearly thirty miles from their last camp, +a herd of about four hundred buffalo suddenly emerged from the +Arkansas, and broke through the long column. In an instant the +troops charged upon the surprised animals with guns, pistols, and +even drawn sabres, and many of the huge beasts were slaughtered +as they went dashing and thundering among the excited troopers and +infantrymen. + +On the 29th an express from Bent's Fort brought news to General +Kearney from Santa Fe that Governor Armijo had called the chief men +together to deliberate on the best means of defending the city; +that hostile preparations were rapidly going on in all parts of +New Mexico; and that the American advance would be vigorously opposed. +Some Mexican prisoners were taken near Bent's Fort, with blank letters +on their persons addressed to the general; it was supposed this piece +of ingenuity was resorted to to deceive the American residents at +the fort. These men were thought to be spies sent out from Santa Fe +to get an idea of the strength of the army; so they were shown +everything in and around camp, and then allowed to depart in peace +for Santa Fe, to report what they had seen. + +On the same date, the Army of the West crossed the Arkansas and camped +on Mexican soil about eight miles below Bent's Fort, and now the +utmost vigilance was exercised; for the troops had not only to keep +a sharp lookout for the Mexicans, but for the wily Comanches, in whose +country their camp was located. Strong picket and camp guards were +posted, and the animals turned loose to graze, guarded by a large +force. Notwithstanding the care taken to confine them within certain +limits, a pack of wolves rushed through the herd, and in an instant +it was stampeded, and there ensued a scene of the wildest confusion. +More than a thousand horses were dashing madly over the prairie, +their rage and fright increased at every jump by the lariats and +picket-pins which they had pulled up, and which lashed them like +so many whips. After desperate exertions by the troops, the majority +were recovered from thirty to fifty miles distant; nearly a hundred, +however, were absolutely lost and never seen again. + +At this camp the troops were visited by the war chief of the Arapahoes, +who manifested great surprise at the big guns, and declared that +the Mexicans would not stand a moment before such terrible instruments +of death, but would escape to the mountains with the utmost despatch. + +On the 1st of August a new camp near Bent's Fort was established, +from whence twenty men under Lieutenant de Courcy, with orders to +proceed through the mountains to the valley of Taos, to learn +something of the disposition and intentions of the people, and to +rejoin General Kearney on the road to Santa Fe. Lieutenant de Courcy, +in his official itinerary, relates the following anecdote: + We took three pack-mules laden with provisions, and as + we did not expect to be long absent, the men took no extra + clothing. Three days after we left the column our mules + fell down, and neither gentle means nor the points of our + sabres had the least effect in inducing them to rise. + Their term of service with Uncle Sam was out. "What's to + be done?" said the sergeant. "Dismount!" said I. + "Off with your shirts and drawers, men! tie up the sleeves + and legs, and each man bag one-twentieth part of the flour!" + Having done this, the bacon was distributed to the men also, + and tied to the cruppers of their saddles. Thus loaded, + we pushed on, without the slightest fear of our provision + train being cut off. + + The march upon Santa Fe was resumed on the 2d of August. + As we passed Bent's Fort the American flag was raised, + in compliment to our troops, and, like our own, streamed + most animatingly in the gale that swept from the desert, + while the tops of the houses were crowded with Mexican girls + and Indian squaws, intently beholding the American army. + +On the 15th of the month, the army neared Las Vegas; when two spies +who had been sent on in advance to see how matters stood returned +and reported that two thousand Mexicans were camped at the pass +a few miles beyond the village, where they intended to offer battle. + +Upon receipt of this news, the general immediately formed a line +of battle. The United States dragoons with the St. Louis mounted +volunteers were stationed in front, Major Clark with the battalion +of volunteer light artillery in the centre, and Colonel Doniphan's +regiment in the rear. The companies of volunteer infantry were +deployed on each side of the line of march as flankers. The supply +trains were next in order, with Captain Walton's mounted company +as rear guard. There was also a strong advance guard. The cartridges +were hastily distributed; the cannon swabbed and rigged; the +port-fires burning, and every rifle loaded. + +In passing through the streets of the curious-looking village of +Las Vegas, the army was halted, and from the roof of a large house +General Kearney administered to the chief officers of the place +the oath of allegiance to the United States, using the sacred cross +instead of the Bible. This act completed, on marched the exultant +troops toward the canyon where it had been promised them that they +should meet the enemy. + +On the night of the 16th, while encamped on the Pecos River, near +the village of San Jose, the pickets captured a son of the Mexican +General Salezar, who was acting the role of a spy, and two other +soldiers of the Mexican army. Salezar was kept a close prisoner; +but the two privates were by order of General Kearney escorted +through the camp and shown the cannon, after which they were allowed +to depart, so that they might tell what they had seen. It was +learned afterward that they represented the American army as composed +of five thousand troops, and possessing so many cannons that they +were not able to count them. + +When Armijo was certain that the Army of the West was really +approaching Santa Fe, he assembled seven thousand troops, part of them +well armed, and the remainder indifferently so. The Mexican general +had written a note to General Kearney the day before the capture +of the spies, saying that he would meet him on the following day. + +General Kearney, at this, hastened on, arriving at the mouth of +the Apache canyon at noon, with his whole force ready and anxious +to try the mettle of the Mexicans in battle. Emory in his +_Reconnoissance_ says: + + The sun shone with dazzling brightness; the guidons and + colours of each squadron, regiment, and battalion were + for the first time unfurled. The drooping horses seemed + to take courage from the gay array. The trumpeters + sounded "to horse" with spirit, and the hills multiplied + and re-echoed the call. All wore the aspect of a gala day. + About the middle of the day's march the two Pueblo Indians, + previously sent to sound the chief men of that formidable + tribe, were seen in the distance, at full speed, with arms + and legs both thumping the sides of their mules at every + stride. Something was now surely in the wind. The smaller + and foremost of the two dashed up to the general, his face + radiant with joy, and exclaimed: + + "They are in the canyon, my brave; pluck up your courage + and push them out." As soon as his extravagant delight at + the prospect of a fight, and the pleasure of communicating + the news, had subsided, he gave a pretty accurate idea + of Armijo's force and position. + + Shortly afterwards a rumour reached the camp that the + two thousand Mexicans assembled in the canyon to oppose us, + have quarrelled among themselves; and that Armijo, taking + advantage of the dissensions, has fled with his dragoons + and artillery to the south. It is well known that he has + been averse to a battle, but some of his people threatened + his life if he refused to fight. He had been, for some + days, more in fear of his own people than of the American + army, having seen what they are blind to--the hopelessness + of resistance. + + As we approached the ancient town of Pecos, a large fat + fellow, mounted on a mule, came toward us at full speed, + and, extending his hand to the general, congratulated him + on the arrival of himself and army. He said with a roar + of laughter, "Armijo and his troops have gone to h---ll, + and the canyon is all clear." + +On reaching the canyon, it was found to be true that the Mexican +troops had dispersed and fled to the mountains, just as the old +Arapahoe chief had said they would. There, however, they commenced +to fortify, by chopping away the timber so that their artillery +could play to better advantage upon the American lines, and by +throwing up temporary breastworks. It was ascertained afterward, +on undoubted authority, that Armijo had an army of nearly seven +thousand Mexicans, with six pieces of artillery, and the advantage +of ground, yet he allowed General Kearney, with a force of less than +two thousand, to march through the almost impregnable gorge, and on +to the capital of the Province, without any attempt to oppose him. + +Thus was New Mexico conquered with but little loss relatively. +For the further details of the movements of the Army of the West, +the reader is referred to general history, as this book, necessarily, +treats only of that portion of its march and the incidents connected +with it while travelling the Santa Fe Trail. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. +THE VALLEY OF TAOS. + + + +The principal settlement in New Mexico, immediately after it was +reconquered from the Indians by the Spaniards, was, of course, +Santa Fe, and ranking second to it, that of the beautiful Valle de Taos, +which derived its name from the Taosa Indians, a few of whose direct +descendants are still occupying a portion of the region. As the +pioneers in the trade with Santa Fe made their first journeys to +the capital of the Province by the circuitous route of the Taos +valley, and the initial consignments of goods from the Missouri +were disposed of in the little villages scattered along the road, +the story of the Trail would be deficient in its integrity were the +thrilling historical facts connected with the romantic region omitted. + +The reader will find on all maps, from the earliest published to the +latest issued by the local railroads, a town with the name of Taos, +which never had an existence. Fernandez de Taos is the chief city, +which has been known so long by the title of the valley that perhaps +the misnomer is excusable after many years' use. + +Fernandez, or Taos as it is called, was once famous for its +distilleries of whiskey, made out of the native wheat, a raw, fiery +spirit, always known in the days of the Santa Fe trade as "Taos +lightning," which was the most profitable article of barter with +the Indians, who exchanged their buffalo robes and other valuable +furs for a supply of it, at a tremendous sacrifice. + +According to the statement of Gregg, the first white settler of the +fertile and picturesque valley was a Spaniard named Pando, who +established himself there about 1745. This primitive pioneer of +the northern part of the Province was constantly exposed to the raids +of the powerful Comanches, but succeeded in creating a temporary +friendship with the tribe by promising his daughter, then a young +and beautiful infant, to the chief in marriage when she arrived +at a suitable age. At the time for the ratification of her father's +covenant with the Indians, however, the maiden stubbornly refused +to fulfil her part. The savages, enraged at the broken faith of +the Spaniard, immediately swept down upon the little settlement and +murdered everybody there except the betrothed girl, whom they +carried off into captivity. She was forced to live with the chief +as his wife, but he soon became tired of her and traded her for +another woman with the Pawnees, who, in turn, sold her to a Frenchman, +a resident of St. Louis. It is said that some of the most respectable +families of that city are descended from her, and fifty years ago +there were many people living who remembered the old lady, and her +pathetic story of trials and sufferings when with the Indians. + +The most tragic event in the history of the valley was the massacre +of the provisional governor of the Territory of New Mexico, with +a number of other Americans, shortly after its occupation by the +United States. + +Upon General Kearney's taking possession of Santa Fe, acting under +the authority of the President, he established a civil government +and put it into operation. Charles Bent was appointed governor, +and the other offices filled by Americans and Mexicans who were +rigidly loyal to the political change. At this time the command +of the troops devolved upon Colonel Sterling Price, Colonel Doniphan, +who ranked him, having departed from Santa Fe on an expedition +against the Navajoes. Notwithstanding the apparent submission of +the natives of New Mexico, there were many malcontents among them +and the Pueblo Indians, and early in December, some of the leaders, +dissatisfied with the change in the order of things, held secret +meetings and formulated plots to overthrow the existing government. + +Midnight of the 24th of December was the time appointed for the +commencement of their revolutionary work, which was to be simultaneous +all over the country. The profoundest secrecy was to be preserved, +and the most influential men, whose ambition induced them to seek +preferment, were alone to be made acquainted with the plot. No woman +was to be privy to it, lest it should be divulged. The sound of +the church bell was to be the signal, and at midnight all were to +enter the Plaza at the same moment, seize the pieces of artillery, +and point them into the streets. + +The time chosen for the assault was Christmas-eve, when the soldiers +and garrison would be indulging in wine and feasting, and scattered +about through the city at the fandangoes, not having their arms in +their hands. All the Americans, without distinction, throughout +the State, and such New Mexicans as had favoured the American +government and accepted office by appointment of General Kearney, +were to be massacred or driven from the country, and the conspirators +were to seize upon and occupy the government. + +The conspiracy was detected in the following manner: a mulatto girl, +residing in Santa Fe, had married one of the conspirators, and had by +degrees obtained a knowledge of their movements and secret meetings. +To prevent the effusion of blood, which would inevitably be the result +of a revolution, she communicated to Colonel Price all the facts +of which she was in possession, and warned him to use the utmost +vigilance. The rebellion was immediately suppressed, but the +restless and unsatisfied ambition of the leaders of the conspiracy +did not long permit them to remain inactive. A second and still more +dangerous conspiracy was formed. The most powerful and influential +men in the State favoured the design, and even the officers of State +and the priests gave their aid and counsel. The people everywhere, +in the towns, villages, and settlements, were exhorted to arm and +equip themselves; to strike for their faith, their religion, and +their altars; and drive the "heretics," the "unjust invaders of +the country," from their soil, and with fire and sword pursue them +to annihilation. On the 18th of January this rebellion broke out +in every part of the State simultaneously. + +On the 14th of January, Governor Bent, believing the conspiracy +completely crushed, with an escort of five persons--among whom were +the sheriff and circuit attorney--had left Santa Fe to visit his +family, who resided at Fernandez. + +On the 19th, he was early roused from sleep by the populace, who, +with the aid of the Pueblos of Taos, were collected in front of his +dwelling striving to gain admittance. While they were effecting +an entrance, he, with an axe, cut through an adobe wall into another +house; and the Mexican wife of the occupant, a clever though shiftless +Canadian, hearing him, with all her strength rendered him assistance. +He retreated to a room, but, seeing no way of escaping from the +infuriated assailants, who fired upon him from a window, he spoke +to his weeping wife and trembling children, and, taking paper +from his pocket, endeavoured to write; but fast losing strength, +he commended them to God and his brothers and fell, pierced by a +ball from a Pueblo. Then rushing in and tearing off his gray-haired +scalp, the Indians bore it away in triumph. + +The circuit attorney, T. W. Leal, was scalped alive and dragged +through the streets, his relentless persecutors pricking him with +lances. After hours of suffering, they threw him aside in the +inclement weather, he imploring them earnestly to kill him to end +his misery. A compassionate Mexican at last closed the tragic scene +by shooting him. Stephen Lee, brother to the general, was killed +on his own housetop. Narcisse Beaubien, son of the presiding judge +of the district, hid in an outhouse with his Indian slave, at the +commencement of the massacre, under a straw-covered trough. +The insurgents on the search, thinking that they had escaped, +were leaving, but a woman servant of the family, going to the +housetop, called to them, "Kill the young ones, and they will never +be men to trouble us." They swarmed back and, by cruelly putting +to death and scalping him and his slave, added two more to the list +of unfortunate victims. + +The Pueblos and Mexicans, after their cruelties at Fernandez de Taos, +attacked and destroyed Turley's Ranch on the Arroyo Hondo[27] twelve +miles from Fernandez, or Taos. Arroyo Hondo runs along the base +of a ridge of a mountain of moderate elevation, which divides the +valley of Taos from that of the Rio Colorado, or Red River, both +flowing into the Del Norte. The trail from one place to the other +passes over the mountain, which is covered with pine, cedar, and +a species of dwarf oak; and numerous little streams run through +the many canyons. + +On the bank of one of the creeks was a mill and distillery belonging +to an American named Turley, who did a thriving business. He possessed +herds of goats, and hogs innumerable; his barns were filled with +grain, his mill with flour, and his cellars with whiskey. He had +a Mexican wife and several children, and he bore the reputation of +being one of the most generous and kind-hearted of men. In times of +scarcity, no one ever sought his aid to be turned away empty-handed; +his granaries were always open to the hungry, and his purse to +the poor. + +When on their road to Turley's, the Pueblos murdered two men, named +Harwood and Markhead. Markhead was one of the most successful +trappers and daring men among the old mountaineers. They were on +their way to Taos with their pack-animals laden with furs, when the +savages, meeting them, after stripping them of their goods, and +securing their arms by treachery, made them mount their mules under +pretence of conducting them to Taos, where they were to be given up +to the leaders of the insurrection. They had hardly proceeded +a mile when a Mexican rode up behind Harwood and discharged his gun +into his back; he called out to Markhead that he was murdered, and +fell to the ground dead. + +Markhead, seeing that his own fate was sealed, made no struggle, +and was likewise shot in the back with several bullets. Both men +were then stripped naked, scalped, and horribly mutilated; their +bodies thrown into the brush to be devoured by the wolves. + +These trappers were remarkable men; Markhead, particularly, was +celebrated in the mountains for his courage, reckless daring, and +many almost miraculous escapes when in the very hands of the Indians. +When some years previously he had accompanied Sir William Drummond +Stewart on one of his expeditions across the Rockies, it happened +that a half-breed Indian employed by Sir William absconded one night +with some animals, which circumstance annoyed the nobleman so much, +as it disturbed all his plans, that he hastily offered, never dreaming +that he would be taken up, to give five hundred dollars for the scalp +of the thief. The very next evening Markhead rode into camp with the +hair of the luckless horse-thief dangling at the muzzle of his rifle. + +The wild crowd of rebels rode on to Turley's mill. Turley had been +warned of the impending uprising, but had treated the report with +indifference, until one morning a man in his employ, who had been +despatched to Santa Fe with several mule-loads of whiskey a few days +before, made his appearance at the gate on horseback, and hastily +informing the inmates of the mill that the New Mexicans had risen and +massacred Governor Bent and other Americans, galloped off. Even then +Turley felt assured that he would not be molested; but at the +solicitation of his men, he agreed to close the gate of the yard +around which were the buildings of the mill and distillery, and make +preparations for defence. + +A few hours afterward a large crowd of Mexicans and Pueblo Indians +made their appearance, all armed with guns and bows and arrows, and, +advancing with a white flag, summoned Turley to surrender his house +and the Americans in it, guaranteeing that his own life should be +saved, but that every other American in the valley must be destroyed; +that the governor and all the Americans at Fernandez had been killed, +and that not one was to be left alive in all New Mexico. + +To this summons Turley answered that he would never surrender his +house nor his men, and that if they wanted it or them, they must +take them. + +The enemy then drew off, and, after a short consultation, commenced +the attack. The first day they numbered about five hundred, but were +hourly reinforced by the arrival of parties of Indians from the more +distant Pueblos, and New Mexicans from Fernandez, La Canada, and +other places. + +The building lay at the foot of a gradual slope in the sierra, which +was covered with cedar bushes. In front ran the stream of the +Arroyo Hondo, about twenty yards from one side of the square, and +the other side was broken ground which rose abruptly and formed +the bank of the ravine. In the rear and behind the still-house was +some garden ground enclosed by a small fence, into which a small +wicket-gate opened from the corral. + +As soon as the attack was determined upon, the assailants scattered +and concealed themselves under cover of the rocks and bushes which +surrounded the house. From these they kept up an incessant fire upon +every exposed portion of the building where they saw preparations +for defence. + +The Americans, on their part, were not idle; not a man but was an old +mountaineer, and each had his trusty rifle, with a good store of +ammunition. Whenever one of the besiegers exposed a hand's-breadth +of his person, a ball from an unerring barrel whistled. The windows +had been blockaded, loopholes having been left, and through these +a lively fire was maintained. Already several of the enemy had +bitten the dust, and parties were seen bearing off the wounded up +the banks of the Canada. Darkness came on, and during the night +a continual fire was kept up on the mill, whilst its defenders, +reserving their ammunition, kept their posts with stern and silent +determination. The night was spent in casting balls, cutting patches, +and completing the defences of the building. In the morning the fight +was renewed, and it was found that the Mexicans had effected a +lodgment in a part of the stables, which were separated from the +other portions of the building by an open space of a few feet. +The assailants, during the night, had sought to break down the wall, +and thus enter the main building, but the strength of the adobe and +logs of which it was composed resisted effectually all their attempts. + +Those in the stable seemed anxious to regain the outside, for their +position was unavailable as a means of annoyance to the besieged, and +several had darted across the narrow space which divided it from the +other part of the building, which slightly projected, and behind +which they were out of the line of fire. As soon, however, as the +attention of the defenders was called to this point, the first man +who attempted to cross, who happened to be a Pueblo chief, was dropped +on the instant, and fell dead in the centre of the intervening space. +It appeared to be an object to recover the body, for an Indian +immediately dashed out to the fallen chief, and attempted to drag him +within the shelter of the wall. The rifle which covered the spot +again poured forth its deadly contents, and the Indian, springing +into the air, fell over the body of his chief. Another and another +met with a similar fate, and at last three rushed to the spot, and, +seizing the body by the legs and head, had already lifted it from the +ground, when three puffs of smoke blew from the barricaded windows, +followed by the sharp cracks of as many rifles, and the three daring +Indians were added to the pile of corpses which now covered the body +of the dead chief. + +As yet the besieged had met with no casualties; but after the fall +of the seven Indians, the whole body of the assailants, with a shout +of rage, poured in a rattling volley, and two of the defenders fell +mortally wounded. One, shot through the loins, suffered great agony, +and was removed to the still-house, where he was laid on a large +pile of grain, as being the softest bed that could be found. + +In the middle of the day the attack was renewed more fiercely than +before. The little garrison bravely stood to the defence of the mill, +never throwing away a shot, but firing coolly, and only when a fair +mark was presented to their unerring aim. Their ammunition, however, +was fast failing, and to add to the danger of their situation, +the enemy set fire to the mill, which blazed fiercely, and threatened +destruction to the whole building. Twice they succeeded in overcoming +the flames, and, while they were thus occupied, the Mexicans and +Indians charged into the corral, which was full of hogs and sheep, +and vented their cowardly rage upon the animals, spearing and shooting +all that came in their way. No sooner were the flames extinguished +in one place than they broke out more fiercely in another; and +as a successful defence was perfectly hopeless, and the numbers of +the assailants increased every moment, a council of war was held by +the survivors of the little garrison, when it was determined, +as soon as night approached, that every one should attempt to escape +as best he could. + +Just at dusk a man named John Albert and another ran to the +wicket-gate which opened into a kind of enclosed space, in which were +a number of armed Mexicans. They both rushed out at the same moment, +discharging their rifles full in the face of the crowd. Albert, +in the confusion, threw himself under the fence, whence he saw his +companion shot down immediately, and heard his cries for mercy as +the cowards pierced him with knives and lances. He lay without motion +under the fence, and as soon as it was quite dark he crept over +the logs and ran up the mountain, travelled by day and night, and, +scarcely stopping or resting, reached the Greenhorn, almost dead +with hunger and fatigue. Turley himself succeeded in escaping from +the mill and in reaching the mountain unseen. Here he met a Mexican +mounted on a horse, who had been a most intimate friend of his for +many years. To this man Turley offered his watch for the use of the +horse, which was ten times more than it was worth, but was refused. +The inhuman wretch, however, affected pity and consideration for the +fugitive, and advised him to go to a certain place, where he would +bring or send him assistance; but on reaching the mill, which was +a mass of fire, he immediately informed the Mexicans of Turley's +place of concealment, whither a large party instantly proceeded and +shot him to death. + +Two others escaped and reached Santa Fe in safety. The mill and +Turley's house were sacked and gutted, and all his hard-earned savings, +which were concealed in gold about the house, were discovered, and, +of course, seized upon by the victorious Mexicans. + +The following account is taken from Governor Prince's chapter on the +fight at Taos, in his excellent and authentic _History of New Mexico_:-- + + The startling news of the assassination of the governor was + swiftly carried to Santa Fe, and reached Colonel Price the + next day. Simultaneously, letters were discovered calling + on the people of the Rio Abajo to secure Albuquerque and + march northward to aid the other insurgents; and news + speedily followed that a united Mexican and Pueblo force of + large magnitude was marching down the Rio Grande valley + toward the capital, flushed with the success of the revolt + at Taos. Very few troops were in Santa Fe; in fact, the + number remaining in the whole territory was very small, + and these were scattered at Albuquerque, Las Vegas, and + other distant points. At the first-named town were Major + Edmonson and Captain Burgwin; the former in command of the + town, and the latter with a company of the First Dragoons. + + Colonel Price lost no time in taking such measures as his + limited resources permitted. Edmonson was directed to come + immediately to Santa Fe to take command of the capital; and + Burgwin to follow Price as fast as possible to the scene + of hostilities. The colonel himself collected the few + troops at Santa Fe, which were all on foot, but fortunately + included the little battalion which under Captain Aubrey + had made such extraordinary marches on the journey across + the plains as to almost outwalk the cavalry. With these + was a volunteer company formed of nearly all of the American + inhabitants of the city, under the command of Colonel Ceran + St. Vrain, who happened to be in Santa Fe, together with + Judge Beaubien, at the time of the rising at Taos. + With this little force, amounting in all to three hundred + and ten men, Colonel Price started to march to Taos, or at + all events to meet the army which was coming toward the + capital from the north and which grew as it marched by + constant accessions from the surrounding country. + The city of Santa Fe was left in charge of a garrison under + Lieutenant-Colonel Willock. While the force was small + and the volunteers without experience in regular warfare, + yet all were nerved to desperation by the belief, since + the Taos murders, that the only alternative was victory + or annihilation. + + The expedition set out on January 23d, and the next day + the Mexican army, under command of General Montoya as + commander-in-chief, aided by Generals Tafoya and Chavez, + was found occupying the heights commanding the road near + La Canada (Santa Cruz), with detachments in some strong + adobe houses near the river banks. The advance had been + seen shortly before at the rocky pass, on the road from + Pojuaque; and near there and before reaching the river, the + San Juan Pueblo Indians, who had joined the revolutionists + reluctantly and under a kind of compulsion, surrendered and + were disarmed by removing the locks from their guns. + On arriving at the Canada, Price ordered his howitzers to + the front and opened fire; and after a sharp cannonade, + directed an assault on the nearest houses by Aubrey's + battalion. Meanwhile an attempt by a Mexican detachment + to cut off the American baggage-wagons, which had not yet + come up, was frustrated by the activity of St. Vrain's + volunteers. A charge all along the line was then ordered + and handsomely executed; the houses, which, being of adobe, + had been practically so many ready-made forts, were + successively carried, and St. Vrain started in advance to + gain the Mexican rear. Seeing this manoeuvre, and fearing + its effects, the Mexicans retreated, leaving thirty-six + dead on the field. Among those killed was General Tafoya, + who bravely remained on the field after the remainder had + abandoned it, and was shot. + + Colonel Price pressed on up the river as fast as possible, + passing San Juan, and at Los Luceros, on the 28th, his + little army was rejoiced at the arrival of reinforcements, + consisting of a mounted company of cavalry, Captain Burgwin's + company, which had been pushed up by forced marches on foot + from Albuquerque, and a six-pounder brought by Lieutenant + Wilson. Thus enlarged, the American force consisted of + four hundred and eighty men, and continued its advance up + the valley to La Joya, which was as far as the river road at + that time extended. Meanwhile the Mexicans had established + themselves in a narrow pass near Embudo, where the forest + was dense, and the road impracticable for wagons or cannon, + the troops occupying the sides of the mountains on both + sides of the canyon. Burgwin was sent with three companies + to dislodge them and open a passage--no easy task. + But St. Vrain's company took the west slope, and another + the right, while Burgwin himself marched through the gorge + between. The sharp-shooting of these troops did such + terrible execution that the pass was soon cleared, though + not without the display of great heroism, and some loss; + and the Americans entered Embudo without further opposition. + The difficulties of this campaign were greatly increased by + the severity of the weather, the mountains being thickly + covered with snow, and the cold so intense that a number + of men were frost-bitten and disabled. The next day Burgwin + reached Las Trampas, where Price arrived with the remainder + of the American army on the last day of January, and all + together they marched into Chamisal. + + Notwithstanding the cold and snow they pressed on over the + mountain, and on the 3d of February reached the town of + Fernandez de Taos, only to find that the Mexican and Pueblo + force had fortified itself in the celebrated Pueblo of Taos, + about three miles distant. That force had diminished + considerably during the retreat from La Canada, many of the + Mexicans returning to their homes, and its greater part + now consisting of Pueblo Indians. The American troops were + worn out with fatigue and exposure, and in most urgent need + of rest; but their intrepid commander, desiring to give his + opponents no more time to strengthen their works, and full + of zeal and energy, if not of prudence, determined to + commence an immediate attack. + + The two great buildings at this Pueblo, certainly the most + interesting and extraordinary inhabited structures in + America, are well known from descriptions and engravings. + They are five stories high and irregularly pyramidal in + shape, each story being smaller than the one below, in order + to allow ingress to the outer rooms of each tier from the + roofs. Before the advent of artillery these buildings were + practically impregnable, as, when the exterior ladders were + drawn up, there were no means of ingress, the side walls + being solid without openings, and of immense thickness. + Between these great buildings, each of which can accommodate + a multitude of men, runs the clear water of the Taos Creek; + and to the west of the northerly building stood the old + church, with walls of adobe from three to seven and a half + feet in thickness. Outside of all, and having its northwest + corner just beyond the church, ran an adobe wall, built for + protection against hostile Indians and which now answered + for an outer earthwork. The church was turned into a + fortification, and was the point where the insurgents + concentrated their strength; and against this Colonel Price + directed his principal attack. The six-pounder and the + howitzer were brought into position without delay, under + the command of Lieutenant Dyer, then a young graduate of + West Point, and since then chief of ordnance of the + United States army, and opened a fire on the thick adobe + walls. But cannon-balls made little impression on the + massive banks of earth, in which they embedded themselves + without doing damage; and after a fire of two hours, + the battery was withdrawn, and the troops allowed to return + to the town of Taos for their much-needed rest. + + Early the next morning, the troops, now refreshed and ready + for the combat, advanced again to the Pueblo, but found + those within equally prepared. The story of the attack and + capture of this place is so interesting, both on account + of the meeting here of old and new systems of warfare--of + modern artillery with an aboriginal stronghold--and because + the precise localities can be distinguished by the modern + tourist from the description, that it seems best to insert + the official report as presented by Colonel Price. + Nothing could show more plainly how superior strong + earthworks are to many more ambitious structures of defence, + or more forcibly display the courage and heroism of those + who took part in the battle, or the signal bravery of the + accomplished Captain Burgwin which led to his untimely death. + Colonel Price writes: + + "Posting the dragoons under Captain Burgwin about two + hundred and sixty yards from the western flank of the church, + I ordered the mounted men under Captains St. Vrain and Slack + to a position on the opposite side of the town, whence they + could discover and intercept any fugitives who might attempt + to escape toward the mountains, or in the direction of + San Fernando. The residue of the troops took ground about + three hundred yards from the north wall. Here, too, + Lieutenant Dyer established himself with the six-pounder + and two howitzers, while Lieutenant Hassendaubel, of Major + Clark's battalion, light artillery, remained with Captain + Burgwin, in command of two howitzers. By this arrangement + a cross-fire was obtained, sweeping the front and eastern + flank of the church. All these arrangements being made, + the batteries opened upon the town at nine o'clock A.M. + At eleven o'clock, finding it impossible to breach the + walls of the church with the six-pounder and howitzers, + I determined to storm the building. At a signal, Captain + Burgwin, at the head of his own company and that of Captain + McMillin, charged the western flank of the church, while + Captain Aubrey, infantry battalion, and Captain Barber and + Lieutenant Boon, Second Missouri Mounted Volunteers, charged + the northern wall. As soon as the troops above mentioned + had established themselves under the western wall of the + church, axes were used in the attempt to breach it, and a + temporary ladder having been made, the roof was fired. + About this time, Captain Burgwin, at the head of a small + party, left the cover afforded by the flank of the church, + and penetrating into the corral in front of that building, + endeavoured to force the door. In this exposed situation, + Captain Burgwin received a severe wound, which deprived me + of his valuable services, and of which he died on the + 7th instant. Lieutenants McIlvaine, First United States + Dragoons, and Royall and Lackland, Second Regiment + Volunteers, accompanied Captain Burgwin into the corral, + but the attempt on the church door proved fruitless, and + they were compelled to retire behind the wall. In the + meantime, small holes had been cut in the western wall, and + shells were thrown in by hand, doing good execution. + The six-pounder was now brought around by Lieutenant Wilson, + who, at the distance of two hundred yards, poured a heavy + fire of grape into the town. The enemy, during all of + this time, kept up a destructive fire upon our troops. + About half-past three o'clock, the six-pounder was run up + within sixty yards of the church, and after ten rounds, + one of the holes which had been cut with the axes was + widened into a practicable breach. The storming party, + among whom were Lieutenant Dyer, of the ordnance, and + Lieutenant Wilson and Taylor, First Dragoons, entered and + took possession of the church without opposition. + The interior was filled with dense smoke, but for which + circumstance our storming party would have suffered great + loss. A few of the enemy were seen in the gallery, + where an open door admitted the air, but they retired + without firing a gun. The troops left to support the + battery on the north side were now ordered to charge on + that side. + + "The enemy then abandoned the western part of the town. + Many took refuge in the large houses on the east, while + others endeavoured to escape toward the mountains. + These latter were pursued by the mounted men under Captains + Slack and St. Vrain, who killed fifty-one of them, only two + or three men escaping. It was now night, and our troops + were quietly quartered in the house which the enemy had + abandoned. On the next morning the enemy sued for peace, + and thinking the severe loss they had sustained would prove + a salutary lesson, I granted their supplication, on the + condition that they should deliver up to me Tomas, one of + their principal men, who had instigated and been actively + engaged in the murder of Governor Bent and others. + The number of the enemy at the battle of Pueblo de Taos + was between six and seven hundred, and of these one hundred + and fifty were killed, wounded not known. Our own loss was + seven killed and forty-five wounded; many of the wounded + have since died." + + The capture of the Taos Pueblo practically ended the main + attempt to expel the Americans from the Territory. + Governor Montoya, who was a very influential man in the + conspiracy and styled himself the "Santa Ana of the North," + was tried by court-martial, convicted, and executed on + February 7th, in the presence of the army. Fourteen others + were tried for participating in the murder of Governor Bent + and the others who were killed on the 19th of January, and + were convicted and executed. Thus, fifteen in all were + hung, being an equal number to those murdered at Taos, the + Arroyo Hondo, and Rio Colorado. Of these, eight were + Mexicans and seven were Pueblo Indians. Several more were + sentenced to be hung for treason, but the President very + properly pardoned them, on the ground that treason against + the United States was not a crime of which a Mexican + citizen could be found guilty, while his country was + actually at war with the United States. + +There are several thrilling, as well as laughable, incidents connected +with the Taos massacre, and the succeeding trial of the insurrectionists; +in regard to which I shall quote freely from _Wah-to-yah_, whose +author, Mr. Lewis H. Garrard, accompanied Colonel St. Vrain across +the plains in 1846, and was present at the trial and execution of +the convicted participants. + +One Fitzgerald, who was a private in Captain Burgwin's company of +Dragoons, in the fight at the Pueblo de Taos, killed three Mexicans +with his own hand, and performed heroic work with the bombs that were +thrown into that strong Indian fortress. He was a man of good feeling, +but his brother having been killed, or rather murdered by Salazar, +while a prisoner in the Texan expedition against Santa Fe, he swore +vengeance, and entered the service with the hope of accomplishing it. +The day following the fight at the Pueblo, he walked up to the +alcalde, and deliberately shot him down. For this act he was confined +to await a trial for murder. + +One raw night, complaining of cold to his guard, wood was brought, +which he piled up in the middle of the room. Then mounting that, +and succeeding in breaking through the roof, he noiselessly crept +to the eaves, below which a sentinel, wrapped in a heavy cloak, paced +to and fro, to prevent his escape. He watched until the guard's back +was turned, then swung himself from the wall, and with as much ease +as possible, walked to a mess-fire, where his friends in waiting +supplied him with a pistol and clothing. When day broke, the town +of Fernandez lay far beneath him in the valley, and two days after +he was safe in our camp. + +Many a hand-to-hand encounter ensued during the fight at Taos, +one of which was by Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, whom I knew intimately; +a grand old gentleman, now sleeping peacefully in the quaint little +graveyard at Mora, New Mexico, where he resided for many years. +The gallant colonel, while riding along, noticed an Indian with whom +he was well acquainted lying stretched out on the ground as if dead. +Confident that this particular red devil had been especially prominent +in the hellish acts of the massacre, the colonel dismounted from +his pony to satisfy himself whether the savage was really dead or +only shamming. He was far from being a corpse, for the colonel had +scarcely reached the spot, when the Indian jumped to his feet and +attempted to run a long, steel-pointed lance through the officer's +shoulder. Colonel St. Vrain was a large, powerfully built man; +so was the Indian, I have been told. As each of the struggling +combatants endeavoured to get the better of the other, with the +savage having a little the advantage, perhaps, it appears that +"Uncle Dick" Wooton, who was in the chase after the rebels, happened +to arrive on the scene, and hitting the Indian a terrific blow on +the head with his axe, settled the question as to his being a corpse. + +Court for the trial of the insurrectionists assembled at nine o'clock. +On entering the room, Judges Beaubien and Houghton were occupying +their official positions. After many dry preliminaries, six prisoners +were brought in--ill-favoured, half-scared, sullen fellows; and the +jury of Mexicans and Americans having been empanelled, the trial +commenced. It certainly did appear to be a great assumption on the +part of the Americans to conquer a country, and then arraign the +revolting inhabitants for treason. American judges sat on the bench. +New Mexicans and Americans filled the jury-box, and American soldiery +guarded the halls. It was a strange mixture of violence and justice-- +a middle ground between the martial and common law. + +After an absence of a few minutes, the jury returned with a verdict +of "guilty in the first degree"--five for murder, one for treason. +Treason, indeed! What did the poor devil know about his new +allegiance? But so it was; and as the jail was overstocked with +others awaiting trial, it was deemed expedient to hasten the execution, +and the culprits were sentenced to be hung on the following Friday-- +hangman's day. + +Court was daily in session; five more Indians and four Mexicans +were sentenced to be hung on the 30th of April. In the court room, +on the occasion of the trial of these nine prisoners, were Senora Bent +the late governor's wife, and Senora Boggs, giving their evidence in +regard to the massacre, of which they were eye-witnesses. Mrs. Bent +was quite handsome; a few years previously she must have been a +beautiful woman. The wife of the renowned Kit Carson also was in +attendance. Her style of beauty was of the haughty, heart-breaking +kind--such as would lead a man, with a glance of the eye, to risk +his life for one smile. + +The court room was a small, oblong apartment, dimly lighted by two +narrow windows; a thin railing keeping the bystanders from contact +with the functionaries. The prisoners faced the judges, and the +three witnesses--Senoras Bent, Boggs, and Carson--were close to them +on a bench by the wall. When Mrs. Bent gave her testimony, the eyes +of the culprits were fixed sternly upon her; when she pointed out +the Indian who had killed the governor, not a muscle of the chief's +face twitched or betrayed agitation, though he was aware her evidence +settled his death warrant; he sat with lips gently closed, eyes +earnestly fixed on her, without a show of malice or hatred--a spectacle +of Indian fortitude, and of the severe mastery to which the emotions +can be subjected. + +Among the jurors was a trapper named Baptiste Brown, a Frenchman, +as were the majority of the trappers in the early days of the border. +He was an exceptionally kind-hearted man when he first came to the +mountains, and seriously inclined to regard the Indians with that +mistaken sentimentality characterizing the average New England +philanthropist, who has never seen the untutored savage on his native +heath. His ideas, however, underwent a marked change as the years +rolled on and he became more familiar with the attributes of the +noble red man. He was with Kit Carson in the Blackfeet country +many years before the Taos massacre, when his convictions were thus +modified, and it was from the famous frontiersman himself I learned +the story of Baptiste's conversion. + +It was late one night in their camp on one of the many creeks in the +Blackfoot region, where they had been established for several weeks, +and Baptiste was on duty, guarding their meat and furs from the +incursions of a too inquisitive grizzly that had been prowling around, +and the impertinent investigations of the wolves. His attention was +attracted to something high up in a neighbouring tree, that seemed +restless, changing its position constantly like an animal of prey. +The Frenchman drew a bead upon it, and there came tumbling down at his +feet a dead savage, with his war-paint and other Indian paraphernalia +adorning his body. Baptiste was terribly hurt over the circumstance +of having killed an Indian, and it grieved him for a long time. +One day, a month after the incident, he was riding alone far away +from our party, and out of sound of their rifles as well, when a band +of Blackfeet discovered him and started for his scalp. He had no +possible chance for escape except by the endurance of his horse; +so a race for life began. He experienced no trouble in keeping out +of the way of their arrows--the Indians had no guns then--and hoped +to make camp before they could possibly wear out his horse. Just as +he was congratulating himself on his luck, right in front of him +there suddenly appeared a great gorge, and not daring to stop or to +turn to the right or left, the only thing to do was to make his animal +jump it. It was his only chance; it was death if he missed it, and +death by the most horrible torture if the Indians captured him. +So he drove his heels into his horse's sides, and essayed the +awful leap. His willing animal made a desperate effort to carry out +the desire of his daring rider, but the dizzy chasm was too wide, +and the pursuing savages saw both horse and the coveted white man +dash to the bottom of the frightful canyon together. Believing that +their hated enemy had eluded them forever, they rode back on their +trail, disgusted and chagrined, without even taking the trouble of +looking over the precipice to learn the fate of Baptiste. + +The horse was instantly killed, and the Frenchman had both of his legs +badly broken. Far from camp, with the Indians in close proximity, +he did not dare discharge his rifle--the usual signal when a trapper +is lost or in danger--or to make any demonstration, so he was +compelled to lie there and suffer, hoping that his comrades, +missing him, would start out to search for him. They did so, +but more than twenty-four hours had elapsed before they found him, +as the bottom of the canyon was the last place they thought of. + +Doctors, in the wild region where their camp was located, were as +impossible as angels; so his companions set his broken bones as well +as they could, while Baptiste suffered excruciating torture. +When they had completed their crude surgery, they improvised a litter +of poles, and rigged it on a couple of pack-mules, and thus carried +him around with them from camp to camp until he recovered--a period +extending over three months. + +This affair completely cured Baptiste of his original sentimentality +in relation to the Indian, and he became one of their worst haters. + +When acting as a juror in the trials of rebel Mexicans and Indians, +he was asleep half the time, and never heard much of the evidence, +and that portion which he did was so much Greek to him. In the last +nine cases, in which the Indian who had murdered Governor Bent +was tried, Baptiste, as soon as the jury room was closed, sang out: +"Hang 'em, hang 'em, sacre enfans des garces, dey dam gran rascale!" +"But wait," suggested one of the cooler members; "let's look at the +evidence and find out whether they are really guilty." Upon this +wise caution, Baptiste got greatly excited, paced the floor, and +cried out: "Hang de Indian anyhow; he may not be guilty now--mais he +vare soon will be. Hang 'em all, parceque dey kill Monsieur Charles; +dey take son topknot, vot you call im--scalp. Hang 'em, hang 'em-- +sa-a-cre-e!" + +On Friday the 9th, the day for the execution, the sky was unspotted, +save by hastily fleeting clouds; and as the rising sun loomed over +the Taos Mountain, the bright rays, shining on the yellow and white +mud-houses, reflected cheerful hues, while the shades of the toppling +peaks, receding from the plain beneath, drew within themselves. +The humble valley wore an air of calm repose. The Plaza was deserted; +woe-begone burros drawled forth sacrilegious brays, as the warm +sunbeams roused them from hard, grassless ground, to scent their +breakfast among straw and bones. + +Poor Mexicans hurried to and fro, casting suspicious glances around; +los Yankees at El casa Americano drank their juleps, and puffed their +cigarettes in silence. + +The sheriff, Metcalf, formerly a mountaineer, was in want of the +wherewithal to hang the condemned criminals, so he borrowed some +rawhide lariats and picket-ropes of a teamster. + +"Hello, Met," said one of the party present, "these reatas are mighty +stiff--won't fit; eh, old feller?" + +"I've got something to make 'em fit--good 'intment--don't emit very +sweet perfume; but good enough for Greasers," said the sheriff, +producing a dollar's worth of Mexican soft soap. "This'll make 'em +slip easy--a long ways too easy for them, I 'spect." + +The prison apartment was a long chilly room, badly ventilated by +one small window and the open door, through which the sun lit up the +earth floor, and through which the poor prisoners wistfully gazed. +Two muscular Mexicans basked in its genial warmth, a tattered serape +interposing between them and the ground. The ends, once fringed but +now clear of pristine ornament, were partly drawn over their breasts, +disclosing in the openings of their fancifully colored shirts +--now glazed with filth and faded with perspiration--the bare skin, +covered with straight black hair. With hands under their heads, +in the mass of stringy locks rusty-brown from neglect, they returned +the looks of their executioners with an unmeaning stare, and +unheedingly received the salutation of--"Como le va!" + +Along the sides of the room, leaning against the walls, were crowded +the poor wretches, miserable in dress, miserable in features, +miserable in feelings--a more disgusting collection of ragged, greasy, +unwashed prisoners were, probably, never before congregated within +so small a space as the jail of Taos. + +About nine o'clock, active preparations were made for the execution, +and the soldiery mustered. Reverend padres in long black gowns, +with meek countenances, passed the sentinels, intent on spiritual +consolation, or the administration of the Blessed Sacrament. + +Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, commanding the military, ordered every +American under arms. The prison was at the edge of the town; +no houses intervened between it and the fields to the north. +One hundred and fifty yards distant, a gallows was erected. + +The word was passed, at last, that the criminals were coming. +Eighteen soldiers received them at the gate, with their muskets at +"port arms"; the six abreast, with the sheriff on the right-- +nine soldiers on each side. + +The poor prisoners marched slowly, with downcast eyes, arms tied +behind, and bare heads, with the exception of white cotton caps +stuck on the back, to be pulled over the face as the last ceremony. + +The roofs of the houses in the vicinity were covered with women and +children, to witness the first execution by hanging in the valley +of Taos, save that of Montojo, the insurgent leader. No men were +near; a few stood afar off, moodily looking on. + +On the flat jail roof was placed a mountain howitzer, loaded and +ranging the gallows. Near was the complement of men to serve it, +one holding in his hand a lighted match. The two hundred and thirty +soldiers, less the eighteen forming the guard, were paraded in front +of the jail, and in sight of the gibbet, so as to secure the prisoners +awaiting trial. Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, on a handsome charger, +commanded a view of the whole. + +When within fifteen paces of the gallows, the side-guard, filing off +to the right, formed, at regular distances from each other, three +sides of a hollow square; the mountaineers composed the fourth and +front side, in full view of the trembling prisoners, who marched up to +the tree under which was a government wagon, with two mules attached. +The driver and sheriff assisted them in, ranging them on a board, +placed across the hinder end, which maintained its balance, as they +were six--an even number--two on each extremity, and two in the middle. +The gallows was so narrow that they touched. The ropes, by reason +of their size and stiffness, despite the soaping given them, were +adjusted with difficulty; but through the indefatigable efforts +of the sheriff and a lieutenant who had accompanied him, all +preliminaries were arranged, although the blue uniform looked sadly +out of place on a hangman. + +With rifles at a "shoulder," the military awaited the consummation +of the tragedy. There was no crowd around to disturb; a death-like +stillness prevailed. The spectators on the roofs seemed scarcely +to move--their eyes were directed to the doomed wretches, with harsh +halters now encircling their necks. + +The sheriff and his assistant sat down; after a few moments of +intense expectation, the heart-wrung victims said a few words to +their people. Only one of them admitted he had committed murder +and deserved death. In their brief but earnest appeals, the words +"mi padre, mi madre"--"my father, my mother"--were prominent. +The one sentenced for treason showed a spirit of patriotism worthy +of the cause for which he died--the liberty of his country; and +instead of the cringing recantation of the others, his speech was +a firm asseveration of his own innocence, the unjustness of his trial, +and the arbitrary conduct of his murderers. As the cap was pulled +over his face, the last words he uttered between his teeth with +a scowl were "Carajo, los Americanos!" + +At a word from the sheriff, the mules were started, and the wagon +drawn from under the tree. No fall was given, and their feet remained +on the board till the ropes drew tight. The bodies swayed back and +forth, and while thus swinging, the hands of two came together with +a firm grasp till the muscles loosened in death. + +After forty minutes' suspension, Colonel Willock ordered his command +to quarters, and the howitzer to be taken from its place on the roof +of the jail. The soldiers were called away; the women and population +in general collecting around the rear guard which the sheriff had +retained for protection while delivering the dead to their weeping +relatives. + +While cutting a rope from one man's neck--for it was in a hard knot-- +the owner, a government teamster standing by waiting, shouted angrily, +at the same time stepping forward: + +"Hello there! don't cut that rope; I won't have anything to tie +my mules with." + +"Oh! you darned fool," interposed a mountaineer, "the dead men's +ghosts will be after you if you use them lariats--wagh! They'll make +meat of you sartain." + +"Well, I don't care if they do. I'm in government service; and if +them picket-halters was gone, slap down goes a dollar apiece. +Money's scarce in these diggin's, and I'm going to save all I kin +to take home to the old woman and boys." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. +FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. + + + +On the summit of one of the highest plateaus bordering the Missouri +River, surrounded by a rich expanse of foliage, lies Independence, +the beautiful residence suburb of Kansas City, only ten miles distant. + +Tradition tells that early in this century there were a few pioneers +camping at long distances from each other in the seemingly +interminable woods; in summer engaged in hunting the deer, elk, and +bear, and in winter in trapping. It is a well-known fact that +the Big Blue was once a favourite resort of the beaver, and that +even later their presence in great numbers attracted many a veteran +trapper to its waters. + +Before that period the quaint old cities of far-off Mexico were +forbidden to foreign traders, excepting to the favoured few who were +successful in obtaining permits from the Spanish government. In 1821, +however, the rebellion of Iturbide crushed the power of the mother +country, and established the freedom of Mexico. The embargo upon +foreign trade was at once removed, and the Santa Fe Trail, for untold +ages only a simple trace across the continent, became the busy highway +of a relatively great commerce. + +In 1817 the navigation of the Mississippi River was begun. On the 2d +of August of that year the steamer _General Pike_ arrived at St. Louis. +The first boat to ascend the Missouri River was the _Independence_; +she passed Franklin on the 28th of May, 1819, where a dinner was given +to her officers. In the same and the following month of that year, +the steamers _Western Engineer Expedition_ and _R. M. Johnson_ came +along, carrying Major Long's scientific exploring party, bound for +the Yellowstone. + +The Santa Fe trade having been inaugurated shortly after these +important events, those engaged in it soon realized the benefits +of river navigation--for it enabled them to shorten the distance +which their wagons had to travel in going across the plains--and +they began to look out for a suitable place as a shipping and +outfitting point higher up the river than Franklin, which had been +the initial starting town. + +By 1827 trading-posts had been established at Blue Mills, Fort Osage, +and Independence. The first-mentioned place, which is situated about +six miles below Independence, soon became the favourite landing, +and the exchange from wagons to boats settled and defied all efforts +to remove the headquarters of the trade from there for several years. +Independence, however, being the county seat and the larger place, +succeeded in its claims to be the more suitable locality, and as +early as 1832 it was recognized as the American headquarters and the +great outfitting point for the Santa Fe commerce, which it continued +to be until 1846, when the traffic was temporarily suspended by the +breaking out of the Mexican War. + +Independence was not only the principal outfitting point for the +Santa Fe traders, but also that of the great fur companies. That +powerful association used to send out larger pack-trains than any +other parties engaged in the traffic to the Rocky Mountains; +they also employed wagons drawn by mules, and loaded with goods for +the Indians with whom their agents bartered, which also on their +return trip transported the skins and pelts of animals procured from +the savages. The articles intended for the Indian trade were +always purchased in St. Louis, and usually shipped to Independence, +consigned to the firm of Aull and Company, who outfitted the traders +with mules and provisions, and in fact anything else required by them. + +Several individual traders would frequently form joint caravans, +and travel in company for mutual protection from the Indians. After +having reached a fifty-mile limit from the State line, each trader +had control of his own men; each took care of a certain number of +the pack-animals, loaded and unloaded them in camp, and had general +supervision of them. + +Frequently there would be three hundred mules in a single caravan, +carrying three hundred pounds apiece, and very large animals more. +Thousands of wagons were also sent out from Independence annually, +each drawn by twelve mules or six yoke of oxen, and loaded with +general merchandise. + +There were no packing houses in those days nearer than St. Louis, +and the bacon and beef used in the Santa Fe trade were furnished by +the farmers of the surrounding country, who killed their meat, +cured it, and transported it to the town where they sold it. +Their wheat was also ground at the local mills, and they brought +the flour to market, together with corn, dried fruit, beans, peas, +and kindred provisions used on the long route across the plains. + +Independence very soon became the best market west of St. Louis for +cattle, mules, and wagons; the trade of which the place was the +acknowledged headquarters furnishing employment to several thousand +men, including the teamsters and packers on the Trail. The wages +paid varied from twenty-five to fifty dollars a month and rations. +The price charged for hauling freight to Santa Fe was ten dollars +a hundred pounds, each wagon earning from five to six hundred dollars +every trip, which was made in eighty or ninety days; some fast +caravans making quicker time. + +The merchants and general traders of Independence in those days +reaped a grand harvest. Everything to eat was in constant demand; +mules and oxen were sold in great numbers every month at excellent +prices and always for cash; while any good stockman could readily +make from ten to fifty dollars a day. + +One of the largest manufacturers and most enterprising young men in +Independence at that time was Hiram Young, a coloured man. Besides +making hundreds of wagons, he made all the ox-yokes used in the +entire traffic; fifty thousand annually during the '50's and until +the breaking out of the war. The forward yokes were sold at an +average of one dollar and a quarter, the wheel yokes a dollar higher. + +The freight transported by the wagons was always very securely loaded; +each package had its contents plainly marked on the outside. +The wagons were heavily covered and tightly closed. Every man +belonging to the caravan was thoroughly armed, and ever on the alert +to repulse an attack by the Indians. + +Sometimes at the crossing of the Arkansas the quicksands were so bad +that it was necessary to get the caravan over in a hurry; then forty +or fifty yoke of oxen were hitched to one wagon and it was quickly +yanked through the treacherous ford. This was not always the case, +however; it depended upon the stage of water and recent floods. + +After the close of the war with Mexico, the freight business across +the plains increased to a wonderful degree. The possession of the +country by the United States gave a fresh impetus to the New Mexico +trade, and the traffic then began to be divided between Westport +and Kansas City. Independence lost control of the overland commerce +and Kansas City commenced its rapid growth. Then came the discovery +of gold in California, and this gave an increased business westward; +for thousands of men and their families crossed the plains and +the Rocky Mountains, seeking their fortunes in the new El Dorado. +The Old Trail was the highway of an enormous pilgrimage, and both +Independence and Kansas City became the initial point of a wonderful +emigration. + +In Independence may still be seen a few of the old landmarks when +it was the headquarters of the Santa Fe trade. + +An overland mail was started from the busy town as early as 1849. +In an old copy of the Missouri _Commonwealth_, published there under +the date of July, 1850, which I found on file in the Kansas State +Historical Society, there is the following account of the first mail +stage westward:-- + + We briefly alluded, some days since, to the Santa Fe line + of mail stages, which left this city on its first monthly + journey on the 1st instant. The stages are got up in + elegant style, and are each arranged to convey eight + passengers. The bodies are beautifully painted, and made + water-tight, with a view of using them as boats in ferrying + streams. The team consists of six mules to each coach. + The mail is guarded by eight men, armed as follows: Each man + has at his side, fastened in the stage, one of Colt's + revolving rifles; in a holster below, one of Colt's long + revolvers, and in his belt a small Colt's revolver, besides + a hunting-knife; so that these eight men are ready, in case + of attack, to discharge one hundred and thirty-six shots + without having to reload. This is equal to a small army, + armed as in the ancient times, and from the looks of this + escort, ready as they are, either for offensive or defensive + warfare with the savages, we have no fears for the safety + of the mails. + + The accommodating contractors have established a sort of + base of refitting at Council Grove, a distance of one + hundred and fifty miles from this city, and have sent out + a blacksmith, and a number of men to cut and cure hay, with + a quantity of animals, grain, and provisions; and we + understand they intend to make a sort of traveling station + there, and to commence a farm. They also, we believe, + intend to make a similar settlement at Walnut Creek next + season. Two of their stages will start from here the + first of every month. + +The old stage-coach days were times of Western romance and adventure, +and the stories told of that era of the border have a singular +fascination in this age of annihilation of distance. + +Very few, if any, of the famous men who handled the "ribbons" in those +dangerous days of the slow journey across the great plains are among +the living; like the clumsy and forgotten coaches they drove, +they have themselves been mouldering into dust these many years. + +In many places on the line of the Trail, where the hard hills have not +been subjected to the plough, the deep ruts cut by the lumbering +Concord coaches may yet be distinctly traced. Particularly are they +visible from the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe track, as the cars +thunder rapidly toward the city of Great Bend, in Kansas, three miles +east of that town. Let the tourist as he crosses Walnut Creek look +out of his window toward the east at an angle of about thirty-five +degrees, and on the flint hills which slope gradually toward the +railroad, he will observe, very distinctly, the Old Trail, where it +once drew down from the divide to make the ford at the little stream. + +The monthly stages started from each end of the route at the same time; +later the service was increased to once a week; after a while to +three times, until in the early '60's daily stages were run from both +ends of the route, and this was continued until the advent of the +railroad. + +Each coach carried eleven passengers, nine closely stowed inside +--three on a seat--and two on the outside on the boot with the driver. +The fare to Santa Fe was two hundred and fifty dollars, the allowance +of baggage being limited to forty pounds; all in excess of that cost +half a dollar a pound. In this now seemingly large sum was included +the board of the travellers, but they were not catered to in any +extravagant manner; hardtack, bacon, and coffee usually exhausted +the menu, save that at times there was an abundance of antelope and +buffalo. + +There was always something exciting in those journeys from the +Missouri to the mountains in the lumbering Concord coach. There was +the constant fear of meeting the wily red man, who persistently +hankered after the white man's hair. Then there was the playfulness +of the sometimes drunken driver, who loved to upset his tenderfoot +travellers in some arroya, long after the moon had sunk below +the horizon. + +It required about two weeks to make the trip from the Missouri River +to Santa Fe, unless high water or a fight with the Indians made it +several days longer. The animals were changed every twenty miles +at first, but later, every ten, when faster time was made. What sleep +was taken could only be had while sitting bolt upright, because there +was no laying over; the stage continued on night and day until +Santa Fe was reached. + +After a few years, the company built stations at intervals varying +from ten miles to fifty or more; and there the animals and drivers +were changed, and meals furnished to travellers, which were always +substantial, but never elegant in variety or cleanliness. + +Who can ever forget those meals at the "stations," of which you were +obliged to partake or go hungry: biscuit hard enough to serve as +"round-shot," and a vile decoction called, through courtesy, coffee +--but God help the man who disputed it! + +Some stations, however, were notable exceptions, particularly in the +mountains of New Mexico, where, aside from the bread--usually only +tortillas, made of the blue-flint corn of the country--and coffee +composed of the saints may know what, the meals were excellent. +The most delicious brook trout, alternating with venison of the +black-tailed deer, elk, bear, and all the other varieties of game +abounding in the region cost you one dollar, but the station-keeper +a mere trifle; no wonder the old residents and ranchmen on the line +of the Old Trail lament the good times of the overland stage! + +Thirteen years ago I revisited the once well-known Kosloskie's Ranch, +a picturesque cabin at the foot of the Glorieta Mountains, about half +a mile from the ruins on the Rio Pecos. The old Pole was absent, +but his wife was there; and, although I had not seen her for fifteen +years, she remembered me well, and at once began to deplore the +changed condition of the country since the advent of the railroad, +declaring it had ruined their family with many others. I could not +disagree with her view of the matter, as I looked on the debris of +a former relative greatness all around me. I recalled the fact that +once Kosloskie's Ranch was the favourite eating station on the Trail; +where you were ever sure of a substantial meal--the main feature +of which was the delicious brook trout, which were caught out of +the stream which ran near the door while you were washing the dust +out of your eyes and ears. + +The trout have vacated the Pecos; the ranch is a ruin, and stands +in grim contrast with the old temple and church on the hill; and both +are monuments of civilizations that will never come again. + +Weeds and sunflowers mark the once broad trail to the quaint Aztec +city, and silence reigns in the beautiful valley, save when broken +by the passage of "The Flyer" of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe +railway, as it struggles up the heavy grade of the Glorieta Mountains +a mile or more distant. + +Besides the driver, there was another employee--the conductor or +messenger, as he was called. He had charge of the mail and express +matter, collected the fares, and attended generally to the requirements +of those committed to his care during the tedious journey; for he +was not changed like the driver, but stayed with the coach from its +starting to its destination. Sometimes fourteen individuals were +accommodated in case of emergency; but it was terribly crowded and +uncomfortable riding, with no chance to stretch your limbs, save for +a few moments at stations where you ate and changed animals. + +In starting from Independence, powerful horses were attached to +the coach--generally four in number; but at the first station they +were exchanged for mules, and these animals hauled it the remainder +of the way. Drivers were changed about eight times in making the trip +to Santa Fe; and some of them were comical fellows, but full of nerve +and endurance, for it required a man of nerve to handle eight frisky +mules through the rugged passes of the mountains, when the snow was +drifted in immense masses, or when descending the curved, icy +declivities to the base of the range. A cool head was highly +necessary; but frequently accidents occurred and sometimes were +serious in their results. + +A snowstorm in the mountains was a terrible thing to encounter by +the coach; all that could be done was to wait until it had abated, +as there was no going on in the face of the blinding sheets of +intensely cold vapour which the wind hurled against the sides of +the mountains. All inside of the coach had to sit still and shake +with the freezing branches of the tall trees around them. A summer +hailstorm was much more to be dreaded, however; for nowhere else on +the earth do the hailstones shoot from the clouds of greater size or +with greater velocity than in the Rocky Mountains. Such an event +invariably frightened the mules and caused them to stampede; and, +to escape death from the coach rolling down some frightful abyss, +one had to jump out, only to be beaten to a jelly by the masses of +ice unless shelter could be found under some friendly ledge of rock +or the thick limbs of a tree. + +Nothing is more fatiguing than travelling for the first day and night +in a stage-coach; after that, however, one gets used to it and the +remainder of the journey is relatively comfortable. + +The only way to alleviate the monotony of riding hour after hour +was to walk; occasionally this was rendered absolutely necessary +by some accident, such as breaking a wheel or axle, or when an animal +gave out before a station was reached. In such cases, however, +no deduction was made from the fare, that having been collected in +advance, so it cost you just as much whether you rode or walked. +You could exercise your will in the matter, but you must not lag +behind the coach; the savages were always watching for such derelicts, +and your hair was the forfeit! + +In the worst years, when the Indians were most decidedly on the +war-trail, the government furnished an escort of soldiers from the +military posts; they generally rode in a six-mule army-wagon, and +were commanded by a sergeant or corporal; but in the early days, +before the army had concentrated at the various forts on the great +plains, the stage had to rely on the courage and fighting qualities +of its occupants, and the nerve and the good judgment of the driver. +If the latter understood his duty thoroughly and was familiar with +the methods of the savages, he always chose the cover of darkness +in which to travel in localities where the danger from Indians was +greater than elsewhere; for it is a rare thing in savage warfare +to attack at night. The early morning seemed to be their favourite +hour, when sleep oppresses most heavily; and then it was that the +utmost vigilance was demanded. + +One of the most confusing things to the novice riding over the great +plains is the idea of distance; mile after mile is travelled on +the monotonous trail, with a range of hills or a low divide in +full sight, yet hours roll by and the objects seem no nearer than +when they were first observed. The reason for this seems to be that +every atom of vapour is eliminated from the air, leaving such an +absolute clearness of atmosphere, such an indescribable transparency +of space through which distant objects are seen, that they are +magnified and look nearer than they really are. Consequently, +the usual method of calculating distance and areas by the eye is ever +at fault until custom and familiarity force a new standard of measure. + +Mirages, too, were of frequent occurrence on the great plains; +some of them wonderful examples of the refracting properties of light. +They assumed all manner of fantastic, curious shapes, sometimes +ludicrously distorting the landscape; objects, like a herd of buffalo +for instance, though forty miles away, would seem to be high in air, +often reversed, and immensely magnified in their proportions. + +Violent storms were also frequent incidents of the long ride. +I well remember one night, about thirty years ago, when the coach +in which I and one of my clerks were riding to Fort Dodge was +suddenly brought to a standstill by a terrible gale of wind and hail. +The mules refused to face it, and quickly turning around nearly +overturned the stage, while we, with the driver and conductor, +were obliged to hold on to the wheels with all our combined strength +to prevent it from blowing down into a stony ravine, on the brink +of which we were brought to a halt. Fortunately, these fearful +blizzards did not last very long; the wind ceased blowing so violently +in a few moments, but the rain usually continued until morning. + +It usually happened that you either at once took a great liking for +your driver and conductor, or the reverse. Once, on a trip from +Kansas City, nearly a third of a century ago, when I and another man +were the only occupants of the coach, we entertained quite a friendly +feeling for our driver; he was a good-natured, jolly fellow, full of +anecdote and stories of the Trail, over which he had made more than +a hundred sometimes adventurous journeys. + +When we arrived at the station at Plum Creek, the coach was a little +ahead of time, and the driver who was there to relieve ours commenced +to grumble at the idea of having to start out before the regular hour. +He found fault because we had come into the station so soon, and +swore he could drive where our man could not "drag a halter-chain," +as he claimed in his boasting. We at once took a dislike to him, +and secretly wished that he would come to grief, in order to cure him +of his boasting. Sure enough, before we had gone half a mile from the +station he incontinently tumbled the coach over into a sandy arroya, +and we were delighted at the accident. Finding ourselves free from +any injury, we went to work and assisted him to right the coach-- +no small task; but we took great delight in reminding him several +times of his ability to drive where our old friend could not "drag +a halter-chain." It was very dark; neither moon or star visible, +the whole heavens covered with an inky blackness of ominous clouds; +so he was not so much to be blamed after all. + +The very next coach was attacked at the crossing of Cow Creek by +a band of Kiowas. The savages had followed the stage all that +afternoon, but remained out of sight until just at dark, when they +rushed over the low divide, and mounted on their ponies commenced +to circle around the coach, making the sand dunes resound with echoes +of their infernal yelling, and shaking their buffalo-robes to stampede +the mules, at the same time firing their guns at the men who were +in the coach, all of whom made a bold stand, but were rapidly getting +the worst of it, when fortunately a company of United States cavalry +came over the Trail from the west, and drove the savages off. +Two of the men in the coach were seriously wounded, and one of the +soldiers killed; but the Indian loss was never determined, as they +succeeded in carrying off both their dead and wounded. + +Mr. W. H. Ryus, a friend of mine now residing in Kansas City, who was +a driver and messenger thirty-five years, and had many adventures, +told me the following incidents: + + I have crossed the plains sixty-five times by wagon and + coach. In July, 1861, I was employed by Barnum, Vickery, + and Neal to drive over what was known as the Long Route, + that is, from Fort Larned to Fort Lyon, two hundred and + forty miles, with no station between. We drove one set of + mules the whole distance, camped out, and made the journey, + in good weather, in four or five days. In winter we + generally encountered a great deal of snow, and very cold + air on the bleak and wind-swept desert of the Upper Arkansas, + but we employees got used to that; only the passengers did + any kicking. We had a way of managing them, however, + when they got very obstreperous; all we had to do was to + yell Indians! and that quieted them quicker than forty-rod + whiskey does a man. + + We gathered buffalo-chips, to boil our coffee and cook our + buffalo and antelope steak, smoked for a while around the + smouldering fire until the animals were through grazing, + and then started on our lonely way again. + + Sometimes the coach would travel for a hundred miles through + the buffalo herds, never for a moment getting out of sight + of them; often we saw fifty thousand to a hundred thousand + on a single journey out or in. The Indians used to call + them their cattle, and claimed to own them. They did not, + like the white man, take out only the tongue, or hump, and + leave all the rest to dry upon the prairie, but ate every + last morsel, even to the intestines. They said the whites + were welcome to all they could eat or haul away, but they + did not like to see so much meat wasted as was our custom. + + The Indians on the plains were not at all hostile in 1861-62; + we could drive into their villages, where there were tens + of thousands of them, and they would always treat us to + music or a war-dance, and set before us the choicest of + their venison and buffalo. In July of the last-mentioned + year, Colonel Leavenworth, Jr., was crossing the Trail in + my coach. He desired to see Satanta, the great Kiowa chief. + The colonel's father[28] was among the Indians a great deal + while on duty as an army officer, while the young colonel + was a small boy. The colonel said he didn't believe that + old Satanta would know him. + + Just before the arrival of the coach in the region of the + Indian village, the Comanches and the Pawnees had been + having a battle. The Comanches had taken some scalps, + and they were camping on the bank of the Arkansas River, + where Dodge City is now located. The Pawnees had killed + five of their warriors, and the Comanches were engaged in + an exciting war-dance; I think there were from twenty to + thirty thousand Indians gathered there, men, women, and + children of the several tribes--Comanches, Kiowas, Cheyennes, + Arapahoes, and others. + + When we came in sight of their camp, the colonel knew, by + the terrible noise they were making, that a war-dance was + going on; but we did not know then whether it was on account + of troubles among themselves, or because of a fight with + the whites, but we were determined to find out. If he could + get to the old chief, all would be right. So he and I + started for the place whence the noise came. We met a savage + and the colonel asked him whether Satanta was there, and + what was going on. When he told us that they had had + a fight and it was a scalp-dance, our hair lowered; for we + knew that if it was in consequence of trouble with the + whites, we stood in some danger of losing our own scalps. + + The Indian took us in, and the situation, too; and conducted + us into the presence of Satanta, who stood in the middle + of the great circle, facing the dancers. It was out on an + island in the stream; the chief stood very erect, and eyed + us closely for a few seconds, then the colonel told his + own name that the Indians had known him by when he was a boy. + Satanta gave one bound--he was at least ten feet from where + we were waiting--grasped the colonel's hand and excitedly + kissed him, then stood back for another instant, gave him + a second squeeze, offered his hand to me, which I, + of course, shook heartily, then he gazed at the man he had + known as a boy so many years ago, with a countenance + beaming with delight. I never saw any one, even among + the white race, manifest so much joy as the old chief did + over the visit of the colonel to his camp. + + He immediately ordered some of his young men to go out and + herd our mules through the night, which they brought back + to us at daylight. He then had the coach hauled to the + front of his lodge, where we could see all that was going on + to the best advantage. We had six travellers with us on + this journey, and it was a great sight for the tenderfeet. + + It was about ten o'clock at night when we arrived at + Satanta's lodge, and we saw thousands of squaws and bucks + dancing and mourning for their dead warriors. At midnight + the old chief said we must eat something at once. So he + ordered a fire built, cooked buffalo and venison, setting + before us the very best that he had, we furnishing canned + fruit, coffee, and sugar from our coach mess. There we sat, + and talked and ate until morning; then when we were ready + to start off, Satanta and the other chiefs of the various + tribes escorted us about eight miles on the Trail, where + we halted for breakfast, they remaining and eating with us. + +Colonel Leavenworth was on his way to assume command of one of the +military posts in New Mexico; the Indians begged him to come back +and take his quarters at either Fort Larned or Fort Dodge. They told +him they were afraid their agent was stealing their goods and selling +them back to them; while if the Indians took anything from the whites, +a war was started. + +Colonel A. G. Boone had made a treaty with these same Indians in 1860, +and it was agreed that he should be their agent. It was done, and +the entire savage nations were restful and kindly disposed toward +the whites during his administration; any one could then cross the +plains without fear of molestation. In 1861, however, Judge Wright, +of Indiana, who was a member of Congress at the time, charged Colonel +Boone with disloyalty.[29] He succeeded in having him removed. + +Majors Russel and Waddell, the great government freight contractors +across the plains, gave Colonel Boone fourteen hundred acres of land, +well improved, with some fine buildings on it, about fifteen miles +east of Pueblo, Colorado. It was christened Booneville, and the +colonel moved there. In the fall of 1862, fifty influential Indians +of the various tribes visited Colonel Boone at his new home, and +begged that he would come back to them and be their agent. He told +the chiefs that the President of the United States would not let him. +Then they offered to sell their horses to raise money for him to go +to Washington to tell the Great Father what their agent was doing; +and to have him removed, or there was going to be trouble. +The Indians told Colonel Boone that many of their warriors would be +on the plains that fall, and they were declaring they had as much +right to take something to eat from the trains as their agent had +to steal goods from them. + +Early in the winter of the next year, a small caravan of eight or ten +wagons travelling to the Missouri River was overhauled at Nine Mile +Ridge, about fifty miles west of Fort Dodge, by a band of Indians, +who asked for something to eat. The teamsters, thinking them to be +hostile, believed it would be a good thing to kill one of them anyhow; +so they shot an inoffensive warrior, after which the train moved on +to its camp and the trouble began. Every man in the whole outfit, +with the exception of one teamster, who luckily got to the Arkansas +River and hid, was murdered, the animals all carried away, and the +wagons and contents destroyed by fire. + +This foolish act by the master of the caravan was the cause of a +long war, causing hundreds of atrocious murders and the destruction +of a great deal of property along the whole Western frontier. + +That fall, 1863, Mr. Ryus was the messenger or conductor in charge +of the coach running from Kansas City to Santa Fe. He said: + It then required a month to make the round trip, about + eighteen hundred miles. On account of the Indian war + we had to have an escort of soldiers to go through the most + dangerous portions of the Trail; and the caravans all + joined forces for mutual safety, besides having an escort. + + My coach was attacked several times during that season, and + we had many close calls for our scalps. Sometimes the + Indians would follow us for miles, and we had to halt and + fight them; but as for myself, I had no desire to kill one + of the miserable, outraged creatures, who had been swindled + out of their just rights. + + I know of but one occasion when we were engaged in a fight + with them when our escort killed any of the attacking + savages; it was about two miles from Little Coon Creek + Station, where they surrounded the coach and commenced + hostilities. In the fight one officer and one enlisted man + were wounded. The escort chased the band for several miles, + killed nine of them, and got their horses. + + + + +CHAPTER X. +CHARLES BENT. + + + +Almost immediately after the ratification of the purchase of +New Mexico by the United States under the stipulations of the +"Guadalupe-Hidalgo Treaty," the Utes, one of the most powerful tribes +of mountain Indians, inaugurated a bloody and relentless war against +the civilized inhabitants of the Territory. It was accompanied by +all the horrible atrocities which mark the tactics of savage hatred +toward the white race. It continued for several years with more +or less severity; its record a chapter of history whose pages are +deluged with blood, until finally the Indians were subdued by the +power of the military. + +Along the line of the Santa Fe Trail, they were frequently in +conjunction with the Apaches, and their depredations and atrocities +were very numerous; they attacked fearlessly freight caravans, +private expeditions, and overland stage-coaches, robbing and murdering +indiscriminately. + +In January, 1847, the mail and passenger stage left Independence, +Missouri, for Santa Fe on one of its regular trips across the plains. +It had its full complement of passengers, among whom were a Mr. White +and family, consisting of his wife, one child, and a coloured nurse. + +Day after day the lumbering Concord coach rolled on, with nothing to +disturb the monotony of the vast prairies, until it had left them +far behind and crossed the Range into New Mexico. Just about dawn, +as the unsuspecting travellers were entering the "canyon of the +Canadian,"[30] and probably waking up from their long night's sleep, +a band of Indians, with blood-curdling yells and their terrific +war-whoop, rode down upon them. + +In that lonely and rock-sheltered gorge a party of the hostile savages, +led by "White Wolf," a chief of the Apaches, had been awaiting the +arrival of the coach from the East; the very hour it was due was +well known to them, and they had secreted themselves there the +night before so as to be on hand should it reach their chosen ambush +a little before the schedule time. + +Out dashed the savages, gorgeous in their feathered war-bonnets, +but looking like fiends with their paint-bedaubed faces. Stopping the +frightened mules, they pulled open the doors of the coach and, +mercilessly dragging its helpless and surprised inmates to the ground, +immediately began their butchery. They scalped and mutilated the +dead bodies of their victims in their usual sickening manner, not a +single individual escaping, apparently, to tell of their fiendish acts. + +If the Indians had been possessed of sufficient cunning to cover up +the tracks of their horrible atrocities, as probably white robbers +would have done, by dragging the coach from the road and destroying it +by fire or other means, the story of the murders committed in the +deep canyon might never have been known; but they left the tell-tale +remains of the dismantled vehicle just where they had attacked it, +and the naked corpses of its passengers where they had been ruthlessly +killed. + +At the next stage station the employees were anxiously waiting for +the arrival of the coach, and wondering what could have caused +the delay; for it was due there at noon on the day of the massacre. +Hour after hour passed, and at last they began to suspect that +something serious had occurred; they sat up all through the night +listening for the familiar rumbling of wheels, but still no stage. +At daylight next morning, determined to wait no longer, as they felt +satisfied that something out of the usual course had happened, +a party hurriedly mounted their horses and rode down the broad trail +leading to the canyon. + +Upon entering its gloomy mouth after a quick lope of an hour, +they discovered the ghastly remains of twelve mutilated bodies. +These were gathered up and buried in one grave, on the top of the +bluff overlooking the narrow gorge. + +They could not be sure of the number of passengers the coach had +brought until the arrival of the next, as it would have a list of +those carried by its predecessor; but it would not be due for +several days. They naturally supposed, however, that the twelve dead +lying on the ground were its full complement. + +Not waiting for the arrival of the next stage, they despatched a +messenger to the last station east that the one whose occupants +had been murdered had passed, and there learned the exact number +of passengers it had contained. Now they knew that Mrs. White, +her child, and the coloured nurse had been carried off into a +captivity worse than death; for no remains of a woman were found +with the others lying in the canyon. + +The terrible news of the massacre was conveyed to Taos, where were +stationed several companies of the Second United States Dragoons, +commanded by Major William Greer; but as the weather had grown +intensely cold and stormy since the date of the massacre, it took +nearly a fortnight for the terrible story to reach there. The Major +acted promptly when appealed to to go after and punish the savages +concerned in the outrage, but several days more were lost in getting +an expedition ready for the field. It was still stormy while the +command was preparing for its work; but at last, one bright morning, +in a piercing cold wind, five troops of the dragoons, commanded by +Major Greer in person, left their comfortable quarters to attempt +the rescue of Mrs. White, her child, and nurse. + +Kit Carson, "Uncle Dick" Wooten, Joaquin Leroux, and Tom Tobin were +the principal scouts and guides accompanying the expedition, having +volunteered their services to Major Greer, which he had gladly accepted. + +The massacre having occurred three weeks before the command had +arrived at the canyon of the Canadian, and snow having fallen almost +continuously ever since, the ground was deeply covered, making it +almost impossible to find the trail of the savages leading out of +the gorge. No one knew where they had established their winter camp +--probably hundreds of miles distant on some tributary of the Canadian +far to the south. + +Carson, Wooton, and Leroux, after scanning the ground carefully at +every point, though the snow was ten inches deep, in a way of which +only men versed in savage lore are capable, were rewarded by +discovering certain signs, unintelligible to the ordinary individual[31] +--that the murderers had gone south out of the canyon immediately +after completing their bloody work, and that their camp was somewhere +on the river, but how far off none could tell. + +The command followed up the trail discovered by the scouts for nearly +four hundred miles. Early one morning when that distance had been +rounded, and just as the men were about to break camp preparatory +to the day's march, Carson went out on a little reconnoissance on his +own account, as he had noticed a flock of ravens hovering in the air +when he first got out of his blankets at dawn, which was sufficient +indication to him that an Indian camp was located somewhere in the +vicinity; for that ominous bird is always to be found in the region +where the savages take up an abode, feeding upon the carcasses of +the many varieties of game killed for food. He had not proceeded +more than half a mile from the camp when he discovered two Indians +slowly riding over a low "divide," driving a herd of ponies before +them. The famous scout was then certain their village could not +be very far away. The savages did not observe him, as he took good +care they should not; so he returned quickly to where Major Greer +was standing by his camp-fire and reported the presence of a village +very close at hand. + +The Major having sent for Tom Tobin and Uncle Dick Wooton, requested +them to go and find the exact location of the savages. These scouts +came back in less than half an hour, and reported a large number +of teepees in a thick grove of timber a mile away. + +It was at once determined to surprise the savages in their winter +quarters by charging right among their lodges without allowing them +time to mount their ponies, as the gallant Custer rode, at the head +of his famous troopers of the Seventh Cavalry, into the camp of the +celebrated chief "Black Kettle" on the Washita, in the dawn of a +cold November morning twenty years afterward. + +The command succeeded in getting within good charging distance of the +village without its occupants having any knowledge of its proximity; +but at this moment Major Greer was seized with an idea that he ought +to have a parley with the Indians before he commenced to fight them, +and for that purpose he ordered a halt, just as the soldiers were +eager for the sound of the "Charge!" + +Never were a body of men more enraged. Carson gave vent to his wrath +in a series of elaborately carved English oaths, for which he was +noted when young; Leroux, whose naturally hot blood was roused, +swore at the Major in a curious mixture of bad French and worse +mountain dialect, and it appeared as if the battle would begin in the +ranks of the troops instead of those of the savages; for never was +a body of soldiers so disgusted at the act of any commanding officer. + +This delay gave the Indians, who could be seen dodging about among +their lodges and preparing for a fight that was no longer a surprise, +time to hide their women and children, mount their ponies, and get +down into deep ravines, where the soldiers could not follow them. +While the Major was trying to convince his subordinates that his +course was the proper one, the Indians opened fire without any parley, +and it happened that at the first volley a bullet struck him in the +breast, but a suspender buckle deflected its course and he was not +seriously wounded. + +The change in the countenance of their commanding officer caused by +the momentary pain was just the incentive the troopers wanted, and +without waiting for the sound of the trumpet, they spurred their +horses, dashed in, and charged the thunderstruck savages with the +shock of a tornado. + +In two successful charges of the gallant and impatient troopers more +than a hundred of the Indians were killed and wounded, but the time +lost had permitted many to escape, and the pursuit of the stragglers +would have been unavailing under the circumstances; so the command +turned back and returned to Taos. In the village was found the body +of Mrs. White still warm, with three arrows in her breast. Had the +charge been made as originally expected by the troopers, her life +would have been saved. No trace of the child or of the coloured +nurse was ever discovered, and it is probable that they were both +killed while en route from the canyon to the village, as being +valueless to keep either as slaves or for other purposes. + +The fate of the Apache chief, "White Wolf," who was the leader in +the outrages in the canyon of the Canadian, was fitting for his +devilish deeds. It was Lieutenant David Bell's fortune to avenge +the murder of Mrs. White and her family, and in an extraordinary +manner.[32] The action was really dramatic, or romantic; he was +on a scout with his company, which was stationed at Fort Union, +New Mexico, having about thirty men with him, and when near the canyon +of the Canadian they met about the same number of Indians. A parley +was in order at once, probably desired by the savages, who were +confronted with an equal number of troopers. Bell had assigned +the baggage-mules to the care of five or six of his command, and held +a mounted interview with the chief, who was no other than the infamous +White Wolf of the Jicarilla Apaches. As Bell approached, White Wolf +was standing in front of his Indians, who were on foot, all well armed +and in perfect line. Bell was in advance of his troopers, who were +about twenty paces from the Indians, exactly equal in number and +extent of line; both parties were prepared to use firearms. + +The parley was almost tediously long and the impending duel was +arranged, White Wolf being very bold and defiant. + +At last the leaders exchanged shots, the chief sinking on one knee +and aiming his gun, Bell throwing his body forward and making his +horse rear. Both lines, by command, fired, following the example +of their superiors, the troopers, however, spurring forward over +their enemies. The warriors, or nearly all of them, threw themselves +on the ground, and several vertical wounds were received by horse +and rider. The dragoons turned short about, and again charged through +and over their enemies, the fire being continuous. As they turned +for a third charge, the surviving Indians were seen escaping to a +deep ravine, which, although only one or two hundred paces off, +had not previously been noticed. A number of the savages thus +escaped, the troopers having to pull up at the brink, but sending +a volley after the descending fugitives. + +In less than fifteen minutes twenty-one of the forty-six actors in +this strange combat were slain or disabled. Bell was not hit, but +four or five of his men were killed or wounded. He had shot +White Wolf several times, and so did others after him; but so +tenacious of life was the Apache that, to finish him, a trooper +got a great stone and mashed his head. + +This was undoubtedly the greatest duel of modern times; certainly +nothing like it ever occurred on the Santa Fe Trail before or since. + +The war chief of the Kiowa nation in the early '50's was Satank, +a most unmitigated villain; cruel and heartless as any savage that +ever robbed a stage-coach or wrenched off the hair of a helpless woman. +After serving a dozen or more years with a record for hellish +atrocities equalled by few of his compeers, he was deposed for alleged +cowardice, as his warriors claimed, under the following circumstances:-- + +The village of his tribe was established in the large bottoms, +eight miles from the Great Bend of the Arkansas, and about the same +distance from Fort Zarah.[33] All the bucks were absent on a hunting +expedition, excepting Satank and a few superannuated warriors. +The troops were out from Fort Larned on a grand scout after marauding +savages, when they suddenly came across the village and completely +took the Kiowas by surprise. Seeing the soldiers almost upon them, +Satank and other warriors jumped on their ponies and made good their +escape. Had they remained, all of them would have been killed or +at least captured; consequently Satank, thinking discretion better +than valour at that particular juncture, incontinently fled. +His warriors in council, however, did not agree with him; they thought +that it was his duty to have remained at the village in defence of +the women and children, as he had been urged to refrain from going on +the hunt for that very purpose. + +Some time before Satank lost his office of chief, there was living +on Cow Creek, in a rude adobe building, a man who was ostensibly +an Indian trader, but whose traffic, in reality, consisted in selling +whiskey to the Indians, and consequently the United States troops +were always after him. He was obliged to cache his liquor in every +conceivable manner so that the soldiers should not discover it, and, +of course, he dreaded the incursions of the troops much more than +he did raids of the Indian marauders that were constantly on the Trail. + +Satank and this illicit trader, whose name was Peacock, were great +chums. One day while they were indulging in a general good time +over sundry drinks of most villanous liquor, Satank said to Peacock: +"Peacock, I want you to write me a letter; a real nice one, that +I can show to the wagon-bosses on the Trail, and get all the 'chuck' +I want. Tell them I am Satank, the great chief of the Kiowas, and +for them to treat me the best they know how." + +"All right, Satank," said Peacock; "I'll do so." Peacock then sat +down and wrote the following epistle:-- + +"The bearer of this is Satank. He is the biggest liar, beggar, and +thief on the plains. What he can't beg of you, he'll steal. Kick him +out of camp, for he is a lazy, good-for-nothing Indian." + +Satank began at once to make use of the supposed precious document, +which he really believed would assure him the dignified treatment +and courtesy due to his exalted rank. He presented it to several +caravans during the ensuing week, and, of course, received a very +cool reception in every instance, or rather a very warm one. + +One wagon-master, in fact, black-snaked him out of his camp. +After these repeated insults he sought another white friend, and +told of his grievances. "Look here," said Satank, "I asked Peacock +to write me a good letter, and he gave me this; but I don't +understand it! Every time I hand it to a wagon-boss, he gives me +the devil! Read it to me and tell me just what it does say." + +His friend read it over, and then translated it literally to Satank. +The savage assumed a countenance of extreme disgust, and after musing +for a few moments, said: "Well, I understand it all now. All right!" + +The next morning at daylight, Satank called for some of his braves +and with them rode out to Peacock's ranch. Arriving there, he called +out to Peacock, who had not yet risen: "Peacock, get up, the soldiers +are coming!" It was a warning which the illicit trader quickly +obeyed, and running out of the building with his field-glass in his +hand, he started for his lookout, but while he was ascending the +ladder with his back to Satank the latter shot him full of holes, +saying, as he did so: "There, Peacock, I guess you won't write any +more letters." + +His warriors then entered the building and killed every man in it, +save one who had been gored by a buffalo bull the day before, and +who was lying in a room all by himself. He was saved by the fact +that the Indian has a holy dread of small-pox, and will never enter +an apartment where sick men lie, fearing they may have the awful +disease. + +Satanta (White Bear) was the most efficient and dreaded chief of all +who have ever been at the head of the Kiowa nation. Ever restlessly +active in ordering or conducting merciless forays against an exposed +frontier, he was the very incarnation of deviltry in his determined +hatred of the whites, and his constant warfare against civilization. + +He also possessed wonderful oratorical powers; he could hurl the most +violent invectives at those whom he argued with, or he could be +equally pathetic when necessary. He was justly called "The Orator of +the Plains," rivalling the historical renown of Tecumseh or Pontiac. + +He was a short, bullet-headed Indian, full of courage and well versed +in strategy. Ordinarily, when on his visits to the various military +posts he wore a major-general's full uniform, a suit of that rank +having been given to him in the summer of 1866 by General Hancock. +He also owned an ambulance, a team of mules, and a set of harness, +the last stolen, maybe, from some caravan he had raided on the Trail. +In that ambulance, with a trained Indian driver, the wily chief +travelled, wrapped in a savage dignity that was truly laughable. +In his village, too, he assumed a great deal of style. He was very +courteous to his white guests, if at the time his tribe were at all +friendly with the government; nothing was too good for them. +He always laid down a carpet on the floor of his lodge in the post +of honour, on which they were to sit. He had large boards, twenty +inches wide and three feet long, ornamented with brass tacks driven +all around the edges, which he used for tables. He also had a +French horn, which he blew vigorously when meals were ready. + +His friendship was only dissembling. During all the time that +General Sheridan was making his preparations for his intended winter +campaign against the allied plains tribes, Satanta made frequent +visits to the military posts, ostensibly to show the officers that +he was heartily for peace, but really to inform himself of what was +going on. + +At that time I was stationed at Fort Harker, on the Smoky Hill. +One evening, General Sheridan, who was my guest, was sitting on the +verandah of my quarters, smoking and chatting with me and some other +officers who had come to pay him their respects, when one of my men +rode up and quietly informed me that Satanta had just driven his +ambulance into the fort, and was getting ready to camp near the mule +corral. On receiving this information, I turned to the general and +suggested the propriety of either killing or capturing the inveterate +demon. Personally I believed it would be right to get rid of such +a character, and I had men under my command who would have been +delighted to execute an order to that effect. + +Sheridan smiled when I told him of Satanta's presence and the +excellent chance to get rid of him. But he said: "That would +never do; the sentimentalists in the Eastern States would raise +such a howl that the whole country would be horrified!" + +Of course, in these "piping times of peace" the reader, in the quiet +of his own room, will think that my suggestion was brutal, and without +any palliation; my excuse, however, may be found in General +Washington's own motto: Exitus acta probat. If the suggestion had +been acted upon, many an innocent man and woman would have escaped +torture, and many a maiden a captivity worse than death. + +As a specimen of Satanta's oratory, I offer the following, to show +the hypocrisy of the subtle old villain, and his power over the minds +of too sensitive auditors. Once Congress sent out to the central +plains a commission from Washington to inquire into the causes of +the continual warfare raging with the savages on the Kansas border; +to learn what the grievances of the Indians were; and to find some +remedy for the wholesale slaughter of men, women, and children along +the line of the Old Trail. + +Satanta was sent for by the commission as the leading spirit of the +formidable Kiowa nation. When he entered the building at Fort Dodge +in which daily sessions were held, he was told by the president to +speak his mind without any reservation; to withhold nothing, but to +truthfully relate what his tribe had to complain of on the part of +the whites. The old rascal grew very pathetic as he warmed up to +his subject. He declared that he had no desire to kill the white +settlers or emigrants crossing the plains, but that those who came +and lived on the land of his tribe ruthlessly slaughtered the buffalo, +allowing their carcasses to rot on the prairie; killing them merely +for the amusement it afforded them, while the Indian only killed +when necessity demanded. He also stated that the white hunters +set out fires, destroying the grass, and causing the tribe's horses +to starve to death as well as the buffalo; that they cut down and +otherwise destroyed the timber on the margins of the streams, making +large fires of it, while the Indian was satisfied to cook his food +with a few dry and dead limbs. "Only the other day," said he, +"I picked up a little switch on the Trail, and it made my heart bleed +to think that so small a green branch, ruthlessly torn out of the +ground and thoughtlessly destroyed by some white man, would in time +have grown into a stately tree for the use and benefit of my children +and grandchildren." + +After the pow-wow had ended, and Satanta had got a few drinks of +red liquor into him, his real, savage nature asserted itself, and +he said to the interpreter at the settler's store: "Now didn't I +give it to those white men who came from the Great Father? Didn't I +do it in fine style? Why, I drew tears from their eyes! The switch +I saw on the Trail made my heart glad instead of sad; for I new there +was a tenderfoot ahead of me, because an old plainsman or hunter +would never have carried anything but a good quirt or a pair of spurs. +So I said to my warriors, 'Come on, boys; we've got him!' and when +we came in sight, after we had followed him closely on the dead run, +he threw away his rifle and held tightly on to his hat for fear +he should lose it!" + +Another time when Satanta had remained at Fort Dodge for a very long +period and had worn out his welcome, so that no one would give him +anything to drink, he went to the quarters of his old friend, +Bill Bennett, the overland stage agent, and begged him to give him +some liquor. Bill was mixing a bottle of medicine to drench a +sick mule. The moment he set the bottle down to do something else, +Satanta seized it off the ground and drank most of the liquid before +quitting. Of course, it made the old savage dreadfully sick as well +as angry. He then started for a certain officer's quarters and again +begged for something to cure him of the effects of the former dose; +the officer refused, but Satanta persisted in his importunities; +he would not leave without it. After a while, the officer went to +a closet and took a swallow of the most nauseating medicine, placing +the bottle back on its shelf. Satanta watched his chance, and, +as soon as the officer left the room, he snatched the bottle out of +the closet and drank its contents without stopping to breathe. +It was, of course, a worse dose than the horse-medicine. The next +day, very early in the morning, he assembled a number of his warriors, +crossed the Arkansas, and went south to his village. Before leaving, +however, he burnt all of the government contractor's hay on the bank +of the river opposite the post. He then continued on to Crooked Creek, +where he murdered three wood-choppers, all of which, he said afterward, +he did in revenge for the attempt to poison him at Fort Dodge. + +At the Comanche agency, where several of the government agents were +assembled to have a talk with chiefs of the various plains tribes, +Satanta said in his address: "I would willingly take hold of that part +of the white man's road which is represented by the breech-loading +rifles; but I don't like the corn rations--they make my teeth hurt!" + +Big Tree was another Kiowa chief. He was the ally and close friend +of Satanta, and one of the most daring and active of his warriors. +The sagacity and bravery of these two savages would have been a credit +to that of the most famous warriors of the old French and Indian Wars. +Both were at last taken, tried, and sent to the Texas penitentiary +for life. Satanta was eventually pardoned; but before he was made +aware of the efforts that were being taken for his release, +he attempted to escape, and, in jumping from a window, fell and broke +his neck. His pardon arrived the next morning. Big Tree, through +the work of the sentimentalists of Washington, was set free and sent +to the Kiowa Reservation--near Fort Sill in the Indian Territory. + +The next most audacious and terrible scourge of the plains was +"Ta-ne-on-koe" (Kicking Bird). He was a great warrior of the Kiowas, +and was the chief actor in some of the bloodiest raids on the Kansas +frontier in the history of its troublous times. + +One of his captures was that of a Miss Morgan and Mrs. White. +They were finally rescued from the savages by General Custer, under +the following circumstances: Custer, who was advancing with his +column of invincible cavalrymen--the famous Seventh United States-- +in search of the two unfortunate women, had arrived near the head +waters of one of the tributaries of the Washita, and, with only +his guide and interpreter, was far in advance of the column, when, +on reaching the summit of an isolated bluff, they suddenly saw a +village of the Kiowas, which turned out to be that of Kicking Bird, +whose handsome lodge was easily distinguishable from the rest. +Without waiting for his command, the general and his guide rode +boldly to the lodge of the great chief, and both dismounted, holding +cocked revolvers in their hands; Custer presented his at Kicking +Bird's head. In the meantime, Custer's column of troopers, whom +the Kiowas had good reason to remember for their bravery in many +a hard-fought battle, came in full view of the astonished village. +This threw the startled savages into the utmost consternation, but +the warriors were held in check by signs from Kicking Bird. As the +cavalry drew nearer, General Custer demanded the immediate release +of the white women. Their presence in the village was at first +denied by the lying chief, and not until he had been led to the limb +of a huge cottonwood tree near the lodge, with a rope around his neck, +did he acknowledge that he held the women and consent to give them up. + +This well-known warrior, with a foreknowledge not usually found in the +savage mind, seeing the beginning of the end of Indian sovereignty +on the plains, voluntarily came in and surrendered himself to the +authorities, and stayed on the reservation near Fort Sill. + +In June, 1867, a year before the breaking out of the great Indian war +on the central plains, the whole tribe of Kiowas, led by him, +assembled at Fort Larned. He was the cynosure of all eyes, as he +was without question one of the noblest-looking savages ever seen +on the plains. On that occasion he wore the full uniform of a +major-general of the United States army. He was as correctly moulded +as a statue when on horseback, and when mounted on his magnificent +charger the morning he rode out with General Hancock to visit the +immense Indian camp a few miles above the fort on Pawnee Fork, +it would have been a difficult task to have determined which was +the finer-looking man. + +After Kicking Bird had abandoned his wicked career, he was regarded +by every army officer with whom he had a personal acquaintance as +a remarkably good Indian; for he really made the most strenuous +efforts to initiate his tribe into the idea that it was best for it +to follow the white man's road. He argued with them that the time +was very near when there would no longer be any region where the +Indians could live as they had been doing, depending on the buffalo +and other game for the sustenance of their families; they must adapt +themselves to the methods of their conquerors. + +In July, 1869, he became greatly offended with the government for +its enforced removal of his tribe from its natural and hereditary +hunting-grounds into the reservation allotted to it. At that time +many of his warriors, together with the Comanches, made a raid on +the defenceless settlements of the northern border of Texas, in which +the savages were disastrously defeated, losing a large number of +their most beloved warriors. On the return of the unsuccessful +expedition, a great council was held, consisting of all the chiefs +and head men of the two tribes which had suffered so terribly in +the awful fight, to consider the best means of avenging the loss +of so many braves and friends. Kicking Bird was summoned before +that council and condemned as a coward; they called him a squaw, +because he had refused to go with the warriors of the combined tribes +on the raid into Texas. + +He told a friend of mine some time afterward that he had intended +never again to go against the whites; but the emergency of the case, +and his severe condemnation by the council, demanded that he should +do something to re-establish himself in the good graces of his tribe. +He then made one of the most destructive raids into Texas that ever +occurred in the history of its border warfare, which successfully +restored him to the respect of his warriors. + +In that raid Kicking Bird carried off vast herds of horses and a +large number of scalps. Although his tribe fairly worshipped him, +he was not at all satisfied with himself. He could look into the +future as well as any one, and from that time on to his tragic death +he laboured most zealously and earnestly in connection with the +Indian agents to bring his people to live on the reservation which +the government had established for them in the Territory. + +At the inauguration of the so-called "Quaker Policy" by President +Grant, that sect was largely intrusted with the management of Indian +affairs, particularly in the selection of agents for the various +tribes. A Mr. Tatham was appointed agent for the Kiowas in 1869. +He at once gained the confidence of Kicking Bird, who became very +valuable to him as an assistant in controlling the savages. It was +through that chief's influence that Thomas Batty, another Quaker, +was allowed to take up his residence with the tribe, the first white +man ever accorded that privilege. Batty was permitted to erect +three tents, which were staked together, converting them into an +ample schoolhouse. In that crude, temporary structure he taught +the Kiowa youth the rudiments of an education. This very successful +innovation shows how earnest the former dreaded savage was in his +efforts to promote the welfare of his people, by trying to induce +them to "take the white man's road." + +Batty succeeded admirably for a year in his office of teacher, +the chief all the time nobly withstanding the taunts and jeers of +his warriors and their threats of taking his life, for daring to +allow a white man within the sacred precincts of their village-- +a thing unparalleled in the annals of the tribe. + +At last trouble came; the dissatisfied members of the tribe, the +ambitious and restless young men, eager for renown, made another +unsuccessful raid into Texas. The result was that they lost nearly +the whole of the band, among which was the favourite son of Lone Wolf, +a noted chief.[34] After the death of his son, he declared that he +must and would have the scalp of a white man in revenge for the +untimely taking off of the young warrior. Of course, the most +available white man at this juncture was Batty, the Quaker teacher, +and he was chosen by Lone Wolf as the victim of savage revenge. +Here the noble instincts of Kicking Bird developed themselves. +He very plainly told Lone Wolf, who was constantly threatening and +thirsting for blood, that he could not kill Batty until he first +killed him and all his band. But Lone Wolf had fully determined +to have the hair of the innocent Quaker; so Kicking Bird, to avert +any collision between the two bands of Indians, kidnapped Batty +and ran him off to the agency, arriving at Fort Sill about an hour +before Lone Wolf's band of avengers overtook them, and thus the +Quaker teacher was saved. + +One day, long after these occurrences, a friend of mine was in the +sutler's store at Fort Sill. In there was a stranger talking to +Mr. Fox, the agent of the Indians. Soon Kicking Bird entered the +establishment, and the stranger asked Mr. Fox who that fine-looking +Indian was. He was told, and then he begged the agent to say to him +that he would like to have a talk with him; for he it was who led +that famous raid into Texas. "I never saw better generalship in the +field in all my experience. He had three horses killed under him. +I was the surgeon of the rangers and was, of course, in the fight."[35] + +When Kicking Bird was told that the Texas doctor desired to talk with +him, he replied with great dignity that he did not want to revive +those troublous times. "Tell him, though," said Kicking Bird, "that +was my last raid against the whites; that I am a changed man." + +The President of the United States sent for Kicking Bird to come to +Washington, and to bring with him such other influential Indians as +he thought might aid in inducing the Kiowas to cease their continual +raiding on the border of Texas. + +In due time Kicking Bird left for the capital, taking with him +Lone Wolf, Big Bow, and Sun Boy of the Kiowas, together with several +of the head men of the Comanches. When the deputation of savages +arrived in Washington, it was received at the presidential mansion +by the chief magistrate himself. So much more attention was given +to Kicking Bird than to the others, that they became very jealous, +particularly when the President announced to them the appointment +of Kicking Bird as the head chief of the tribe.[36] But Lone Wolf +would never recognize his authority, constantly urging the young men +to raid the settlements. Lone Wolf was a genuine savage, without one +redeeming trait, and his hatred of the white race was unparalleled +in its intensity. He was never known to smile. No other Indian can +show such a record of horrible massacres as he is responsible for. +His orders were rigidly obeyed, for he brooked no disobedience on +the part of his warriors. + +In the summer of 1876, a party of English gentlemen left Fort Harker +for a buffalo hunt. They soon exhausted all their rations and started +a four-mule team back to the post for more. Some of Lone Wolf's band +of cut-throats came across the unfortunate teamster, killed him, +and ran off the team. After the occurrence, Kicking Bird came into +the agency at Fort Sill and told Mr. Haworth, the agent, that he had +given his word to the Great Father at Washington he would do all he +could to bring in those Indians who had been raiding by order of +Lone Wolf, particularly the two who had killed the Englishmen's driver. + +He succeeded in bringing in twelve Indians in all, among them the +murderers of the driver. They, with Lone Wolf and Satank, were sent +to the Dry Tortugas for life. The morning they started on their +journey Satank talked very feelingly to Kicking Bird, with tears in +his eyes. He said that they might look for his bones along the road, +for he would never go to Florida. The savages were loaded into +government wagons. Satank was inside of one with a soldier on each +side of him, their legs hanging outside. Somehow the crafty villain +managed to slip the handcuffs off his wrists, at the same instant +seizing the rifle of one of his guards, and then shoved the two men +out with his feet. He tried to work the lever of the rifle, but +could not move it, and one of the soldiers, coming around the wagon +to where he was still trying to get the gun so as he could use it, +shot him down, and then threw his body on the Trail. Thus Satank +made good his vow that he would never be taken to Florida. He met +his death only a mile from the post. + +After the departure of the condemned savages, the feeling in the tribe +against Kicking Bird increased to an alarming extent. Several times +the most incensed warriors tried to kill him by shooting at him from +an ambush. After he became fully aware that his life was in danger, +he never left his lodge without his carbine. He was as brave as a +lion, fearing none of the members of Lone Wolf's band; but he often +said it was only a question of a short time when he would be gotten +rid of; he did not allow the matter, however, to worry him in the +least, saying that he was conscious he had done his duty by his tribe +and the Great Father. + +In a bend of Cash Creek, about half a mile below the mill, about half +a dozen of the Kiowas had their lodges, that of their chief being +among them. At ten o'clock one Monday in June, 1876, Mr. Haworth, +the agent, came in haste to the shops, called the master mechanic, +Mr. Wykes, out, told him to jump into the carriage quickly; that +Kicking Bird was dead. + +When they arrived at the home of the great chief, sure enough he was +dead, and some of the women were engaged in folding his body in robes. +Other squaws were cutting themselves in a terrible manner, as is their +custom when a relative dies, and were also breaking everything +breakable about the lodge. Kicking Bird had always been scrupulously +clean and neat in the care of his home; it was adorned with the most +beautifully dressed buffalo robes and the finest furs, while the floor +was covered with matting. + +It seems that Kicking Bird, after visiting Mr. Wykes that morning, +went immediately to his lodge, and sat down to eat something, but +just as he had finished a cup of coffee, he fell over, dead. He had +in his service a Mexican woman, and she had been bribed to poison him. + +An expensive coffin was made at the agency for his remains, fashioned +out of the finest black walnut to be found in the country where that +timber grows to such a luxuriant extent. It was eight feet long +and four feet deep, but even then it did not hold one-half of his +effects, which were, according to the savage custom, interred with +his body. + +The cries and lamentations of the warriors and women of his band +were heartrending; such a manifestation of grief was never before +witnessed at the agency. A handsome fence was erected around his +grave, in the cemetery at Fort Sill, and the government ordered +a beautiful marble monument to be raised over it; but I do not know +whether it was ever done. + +Kicking Bird was only forty years old at the time of his sudden +taking off, and was very wealthy for an Indian. He knew the uses +of money and was a careful saver of it. A great roll of greenbacks +was placed in his coffin, and that fact having leaked out, it was +rumoured that his grave was robbed; but the story may not have been +true. + +One of the greatest terrors of the Old Santa Fe Trail was the +half-breed Indian desperado Charles Bent. His mother was a Cheyenne +squaw, and his father the famous trader, Colonel Bent. He was born +at the base of the Rocky Mountains, and at a very early age placed +in one of the best schools that St. Louis afforded. His venerable +sire, with only a limited education himself, was determined that +his boy should profit by the culture and refinement of civilization, +so he was not allowed to return to his mountain home at Bent's Fort, +and the savage conditions under which he was born, until he had +attained his majority. He then spoke no language but English. +His mother died while he was absent at school, and his father +continued to live at the old fort, where Charles, after he had +reached the age of twenty-one, joined him. + +Some Washington sentimentalist, philosophizing on the Indian character, +his knowledge being based on Cooper's novels probably, has said: +"Civilization has very marked effects upon an Indian. If he once +learns to speak English, he will soon forget all his native cunning +and pride of race." Let us see how this theory worked with Charley Bent. + +As soon as the educated half-breed set his foot on his native heath +he readily found enough ambitious young bucks of his own age who +were willing to look on him as their leader. They loved him, too, +if such a thing were possible, as Fra Diavolo was loved by his wild +followers. His band was known as the "Dog-Soldiers"; a sort of a +semi-military organization, consisting of the most daring, +blood-thirsty young men of the tribe; and sometimes "squaw-men," +that is, renegade white men married to squaws, attached themselves +to his command of cut-throats. + +At the head of this collection of the worst savages, hardly ever +numbering over a hundred, Charles Bent robbed ranches, attacked +wagon-trains, overland coaches, and army caravans. He stole and +murdered indiscriminately. The history of his bloody work will +never be wholly revealed, for dead men have no tongues. + +He would visit all alone, in the guise of plainsman, hunter, or +cattleman, the emigrant trains crossing the continent, always, +however, those which had only small escorts or none at all. Feigning +hunger, while his needs were being kindly furnished, he would glance +around him to learn what kind of an outfit it was; its value, its +destination, and how well guarded. Then he would take his leave with +many thanks, rejoin his band, and with it dash down on the train and +kill every human being unfortunate enough not to have escaped before +he arrived. + +He was indefatigable in his efforts to kill off the whole corps of +army scouts. He would pass himself off as a fellow-scout, as a +deserter from some military post, or as an Indian trader, for he was +a wonderful actor, and would have achieved histrionic honours had +he chosen the stage as a profession. + +He would always time his actions so as to be found apparently asleep +by a little camp-fire on the bank of Pawnee Fork, Crooked, Mulberry, +or Walnut creeks, all of which streams intercepted the trails running +north and south between the several military posts during the Indian +war, when he would seem delighted and astonished, or else simulate +suspicion. Then he would either murder the unsuspecting scout with +his own hands, or deliver him to the red fiends of his band to be +tormented. + +The government offered a reward of five thousand dollars for Bent's +capture, dead or alive. It was reported currently that he was at last +killed in a battle with some deputy United States marshals, and that +they received the reward; but the whole thing was manufactured out of +whole cloth, and if the marshals received the money, Uncle Sam was +most outrageously swindled. + +The facts are that he died of malarial fever superinduced by a wound +received in a fight with the Kaws, near the mouth of the Walnut and +not far from Fort Zarah. His "Dog-Soldiers" were whipped by the Kaws, +and his band driven off. Bent lingered for some time and died. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. +LA GLORIETA. + + + +New Mexico, at the breaking out of the Civil War, was abandoned by +the government at Washington, or at least so overlooked that the +charge of neglect was merited. In the report of the committee on +the Conduct of the War, under date of July 15, 1862, Brevet +Lieutenant-Colonel B. S. Roberts of the regular army, major of the +Third Cavalry, who was stationed in the Territory in 1861, says: + It appears to me to be the determination of General Thomas[37] + not to acknowledge the service of the officers who saved + the Territory of New Mexico; and the utter neglect of the + adjutant-general's department for the last year to + communicate in any way with the commanding officer of the + department of New Mexico, or to answer his urgent appeals + for reinforcements, for money and other supplies, in + connection with his repudiation of the services of all the + army there, convinces me that he is not gratified at their + loyalty and their success in saving that Territory to + the Union. + +If space could be given to the story of the carefully prepared plans +of the leaders of secession for the conquest of all the territory +south of a line drawn from Maryland directly west to the Pacific +coast, in which were California, Arizona, and New Mexico, it would +reveal some startling facts, and prove beyond question that it was +the intention of Jefferson Davis to precipitate the rebellion a +decade before it actually occurred. The basis of the scheme was to +inaugurate a war between Texas--which, when admitted into the Union, +claimed all that part of New Mexico east of the Rio Grande--and the +United States, in which conflict Mississippi and some of the other +Southern States were to become participants. The plan fell flat, +because, in 1851, Mr. Davis failed of a re-election to the governorship +of Mississippi. + +So confident were many of Mr. Davis' allies in regard to the +contemplated rebellion, that they boasted to their friends of the +North, upon leaving Washington, that when they met again, it would +be upon a Southern battle-field. + +I have alluded incidentally to what is known as the Texas Santa Fe +Expedition, inaugurated by the President of what was then the republic +of Texas, Mirabeau B. Lamar. It was given out to the world that +it was merely one of commercial interest--to increase the trade +between the two countries; but that it was intended for the conquest +of New Mexico, no one now, in the light of history, doubts. +It resulted in disaster, and is a story well worthy the examination +of the student of American politics.[38] + +In 1861 General Twiggs commanded the military department of which +Texas was an important part. It will be remembered that he surrendered +to the Confederate government the troops, the munitions of war, +the forts, or posts as they were properly termed, and everything +pertaining to the United States army under his control. It was the +intention of the Confederacy to use this region as a military base +from which to continue its conquests westward, and capture the various +forts in New Mexico. Particularly they had their eyes upon Fort Union, +where there was an arsenal, which John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, +had taken especial care to have well stocked previously to the act +of secession. + +But the conspirators had reckoned without their host; they imagined +the native Mexicans would eagerly accept their overtures, and readily +support the Southern Confederacy. Mr. Davis and his coadjutors had +evidently forgotten the effect of the Texas Santa Fe Expedition, +in 1841, upon the people of the Province of New Mexico; but the +natives themselves had not. Besides the loyalty of the Mexicans, +there was a factor which the Confederate leaders had failed to +consider, which was that the majority of the American pioneers had +come from loyal States. + +Of course, there were many secessionists both in Colorado and +New Mexico who were watching the progress of rebellion in eager +anticipation; and it is claimed that in Denver a rebel flag was +raised--but how true that is I do not know. + +John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, was one of the leading spirits of +the Confederacy. A year before the Civil War he placed in command +of the department of New Mexico a North Carolinian, Colonel Loring, +who was in perfect sympathy with his superior, and willing to carry +out his well-defined plans. In 1861 he ordered Colonel G. B. Crittenden +on an expedition against the Apaches. This officer at once tried to +induce his troops to attach themselves to the rebel army in Texas, +but he was met with an indignant refusal by Colonel Roberts and +the regular soldiers under him. The loyal colonel told Crittenden, +in the most forcible language, that he would resist any such attempt +on his part, and reported the action of Colonel Crittenden to the +commander of the department at Santa Fe. Of course, Colonel Loring +paid no attention to the complaint of disloyalty, and then Colonel +Roberts conveyed the tidings to the commanding officers of several +military posts in the Territory, whom he knew were true to the Union, +and only one man out of nearly two thousand regular soldiers +renounced his flag. Some of the officers stationed at New Mexico +were of a different mind, and one of them, Major Lynde, commanding +Fort Filmore, surrendered to a detachment of Texans, who paroled +the enlisted men, as they firmly refused to join the rebel forces. + +Upon the desertion of Colonel Loring to the Southern Confederacy, +General Edward R. S. Canby was assigned to the command of the +department; next in rank was the loyal Roberts. At this perilous +juncture in New Mexico, there were but a thousand regulars all told, +but the Territory furnished two regiments of volunteers, commanded by +officers whose names had been famous on the border for years. +Among these was Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, who had been conspicuous +in the suppression of the Mexican insurrection of 1847, fifteen years +before. Kit Carson was lieutenant-colonel; J. F. Chaves, major; and +the most prominent of the line officers Captain Albert H. Pfeiffer, +with a record as an Indian fighter equal to that of Carson. + +At the same time Colorado was girding on her armour for the impending +conflict. The governor of the prosperous Territory was William Gilpin, +an old army officer, who had spent a large part of his life on the +frontier, and had accompanied Colonel Doniphan, as major of his +regiment, across the plains, on the expedition to New Mexico in 1846. + +Colonel Gilpin at once responded to the pleadings of New Mexico for +help, by organizing two companies at first, quickly following with +a full regiment. This Colorado regiment was composed of as fine +material as any portion of the United States could furnish. +John P. Slough, a war Democrat and a lawyer, was its colonel. +He afterwards became chief justice of New Mexico, and was brutally +murdered in that Territory. + +John M. Chivington, a strict Methodist and a presiding elder of +that church, was offered the chaplaincy, but firmly declined, and, +like many others who wore the clerical garb, he quickly doffed it +and put on the attire of a soldier; so he was made major, and his +record as a fighter was equal to the best. + +The commanding general knew well the plans of the rebels as to their +intended occupation of New Mexico, and, notwithstanding the weakness +of his force, determined to frustrate them if within the limits of +possibility. To that end he concentrated his little army, comprising +a thousand regular soldiers, the two regiments of New Mexico +volunteers, two companies of Colorado troops, and a portion of the +territorial militia, at Fort Craig, on the Rio Grande, to await +the approach of the Confederate troops, under the command of +General H. H. Sibley, an old regular army officer, a native of +Louisiana, and the inventor of the comfortable tent named after him. + +Sibley's brigade comprised some three thousand men, the majority +of them Texans, and he expected that many more would flock to his +standard as he moved northward. On the 19th of February, 1862, +he crossed the Rio Grande below Fort Craig, not daring to attack +Canby in his intrenched position. The Union commander, in order +to keep the Texas troops from gaining the high points overlooking +the fort, placed portions of the Fifth, Seventh, and Tenth Regulars, +together with Carson's and Pino's volunteers, on the other side of +the river. No collision occurred that day, but the next afternoon +Major Duncan, with his cavalry and Captain M'Rae's light battery, +having been sent across to reinforce the infantry, a heavy artillery +fire was immediately opened upon them by the Texans. The men under +Carson behaved splendidly, but the other volunteer regiments became +a little demoralized, and the general was compelled to call back +the force into the fort. Sibley's force, both men and animals, +suffered much from thirst, the latter stampeding, and many, wandering +into our lines, were caught by the scouts of the Union forces. +The next morning early Colonel Roberts was ordered to proceed about +seven miles up the river to keep the Texans away from the water at +a point where it was alone accessible, on account of the steepness +of the banks everywhere else. + +The gallant Roberts, on arriving at the ford, planted a battery there, +and at once opened fire. This was the battle of Valverde, the details +of which, however, do not belong to this book, having been only +incidentally referred to in order to lead the reader intelligently +up to that of La Glorieta, Apache Canyon, or Pigeon's Ranch, as it +is indifferently called. + +Valverde was lost to the Union troops, but never did men fight more +valiantly, with the exception of a few who did not act the part of +the true soldier. The brave M'Rae mounted one of the guns of his +battery, choosing to die rather than surrender. + +General Sibley, after his doubtful victory at Valverde, continued +on to Albuquerque and Santa Fe. The old city offered no resistance +to his occupation; in fact, some of the most influential Mexicans +were pleased, their leaning being strongly toward the Southern +Confederacy; but the common people were as loyal to the Union as +those of any of the Northern States, a feeling intensified by their +hatred for the Texans on account of the expedition of conquest in +1841, twenty-one years before. They contributed of their means to +aid the United States troops, but have never received proper credit +for their action in those days of trouble in the neglected Territory. + +The Confederate general was disappointed at the way in which affairs +were going, for he had based great hopes upon the defection of the +native residents; but he determined to march forward to Fort Union, +where his friend Floyd had placed such stores as were likely to be +needed in the campaign which he had designed. + +From Santa Fe to Fort Union, where the arsenal was located, the road +runs through the deep, rocky gorge known as Apache Canyon. It is +one of the wildest spots in the mountains, the walls on each side +rising from one to two thousand feet above the Trail, which is within +the range of ordinary cannon from every point, and in many places +of point-blank rifle-shot. Granite rocks and sands abound, and the +hills are covered with long-leafed pine. It is a gateway which, +in the hands of a skilful engineer and one hundred resolute men, +can be made perfectly impregnable. + +The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway passes directly through +this picturesque chasm, every foot of which is classic ground, and +in the season of the mountain freshets constant care is needed to +keep its bridges in place. + +At its eastern entrance is a large residence, known as Pigeon's Ranch, +from which the battle to be described derives its name, though, +as stated, it is also known as that of Apache Canyon, and La Glorieta,[39] +the latter, perhaps, the most classical, from the range of mountains +enclosing the rent in the mighty hills. + +The following detailed account of this battle I have taken from +the _History of Colorado_,[40] an admirable work: + + The sympathizers with and abettors of the Southern + Confederacy inaugurated their plans by posting handbills + in all conspicuous places between Denver and the + mining-camps, designating certain localities where the + highest prices would be paid for arms of every description, + and for powder, lead, shot, and percussion caps. + Simultaneously, a small force was collected and put under + discipline to co-operate with parties expected from Arkansas + and Texas who were to take possession, first of Colorado, + and subsequently of New Mexico, anticipating the easy + capture of the Federal troops and stores located there. + Being apprised of the movement, the governor immediately + decided to enlist a full regiment of volunteers. + John P. Slough was appointed colonel, Samuel F. Tappan + lieutenant-colonel, and John J. M. Chivington major. + + Without railroads or telegraphs nearer than the Missouri + River, and wholly dependent upon the overland mail coach + for communication with the States and the authorities at + Washington, news was at least a week old when received. + Thus the troops passed the time in a condition of doubt + and extreme anxiety, until the 6th of January, 1862, when + information arrived that an invading force under General + H. H. Sibley, from San Antonio, Texas, was approaching + the southern border of New Mexico, and had already captured + Forts Fillmore and Bliss, making prisoners of their + garrisons without firing a gun, and securing all their + stock and supplies. + + Immediately upon receipt of this intelligence, efforts + were made to obtain the consent of, or orders from, General + Hunter, commanding the department at Fort Leavenworth, + Kansas, for the regiment to go to the relief of General + Canby, then in command of the department of New Mexico. + On the 20th of February, orders came from General Hunter, + directing Colonel Slough and the First Regiment of Colorado + Volunteers to proceed with all possible despatch to + Fort Union, or Santa Fe, New Mexico, and report to General + Canby for service. + + Two days thereafter, the command marched out of Camp Weld + two miles up the Platte River, and in due time encamped + at Pueblo, on the Arkansas River. At this point further + advices were received from Canby, stating that he had + encountered the enemy at Valverde, ten miles north of + Fort Craig, but, owing to the inefficiency of the newly + raised New Mexican volunteers, was compelled to retire. + The Texans under Sibley marched on up the Rio Grande, + levying tribute upon the inhabitants for their support. + The Colorado troops were urged to the greatest possible + haste in reaching Fort Union, where they were to unite + with such regular troops as could be concentrated at that + post, and thus aid in saving the fort and its supplies + from falling into Confederate hands. Early on the + following morning the order was given to proceed to Union + by forced marches, and it is doubtful if the same number of + men ever marched a like distance in the same length of time. + + When the summit of Raton Pass was reached, another courier + from Canby met the command, who informed Colonel Slough + that the Texans had already captured Albuquerque and + Santa Fe with all the troops stationed at those places, + together with the supplies stored there, and that they + were then marching on Fort Union. + + Arriving at Red River about sundown, the regiment was + drawn up in line and this information imparted to the men. + The request was then made for all who were willing to + undertake a forced march at night to step two paces to + the front, when every man advanced to the new alignment. + After a hasty supper the march was resumed, and at sunrise + the next morning they reached Maxwell's Ranch on the + Cimarron, having made sixty-four miles in less than + twenty-four hours. At ten o'clock on the second night + thereafter, the command entered Fort Union. It was there + discovered that Colonel Paul, in charge of the post, had + mined the fort, giving orders for the removal of the women + and children, and was preparing to blow up all the supplies + and march to Fort Garland or some other post to the + northward, on the first approach of the Confederates. + + The troops remained at Union from the 13th to the 22d of + March, when by order of Colonel Slough they proceeded in + the direction of Santa Fe. The command consisted of + the First Colorado Volunteers; two Light Batteries, + one commanded by Captain Ritter and the other by Captain + Claflin; Ford's Company of Colorado Volunteers unattached; + two companies of the Fifth Regular Infantry; and two + companies of the Seventh United States Cavalry. + + The force encamped at Bernal Springs, where Colonel Slough + determined to organize a detachment to enter Santa Fe by + night with the view of surprising the enemy, spiking his + guns, and after doing what other damage could be accomplished + without bringing on a general action, falling back on the + main body. The detachment chosen comprised sixty men each + from Companies A, D, and E of the Colorado regiment, with + Company F of the same mounted, and thirty-seven men each + from the companies of Captains Ford and Howland, and of + the Seventh Cavalry, the whole commanded by Major Chivington. + + At sundown on the 25th of March it reached Kosloskie's Ranch, + where Major Chivington was informed that the enemy's pickets + were in the vicinity. He went into camp at once, and about + nine o'clock of the same evening sent out Lieutenant Nelson + of the First Colorado with thirty men of Company F, who + captured the Texan pickets while they were engaged in a game + of cards at Pigeon's Ranch, and before daylight on the + morning of the 26th, reported at camp with his prisoners. + After breakfast, the major, being apprised of the enemy's + whereabouts, proceeded cautiously, keeping his advance + guard well to the front. While passing near the summit + of the hill, the officer in command of the advance met + the Confederate advance, consisting of a first lieutenant + and thirty men, captured them without firing a gun, and + returning met the main body and turned them over to the + commanding officer. The Confederate lieutenant declared + that they had received no intimation of the advance from + Fort Union, but themselves expected to be there four days + later. + + Descending Apache Canyon for the distance of half a mile, + Chivington's force observed the approaching Texans, about + six hundred strong, with three pieces of artillery, who, + on discovering the Federals, halted, formed line and battery, + and opened fire. + + Chivington drew up his cavalry as a reserve under cover, + deployed Company D under Captain Downing to the right, + and Companies A and E under Captains Wynkoop and Anthony + to the left, directing them to ascend the mountain-side + until they were above the elevation of the enemy's artillery + and thus flank him, at the same time directing Captain + Howland, he being the ranking cavalry officer, to closely + observe the enemy, and when he retreated, without further + orders to charge with the cavalry. This disposition of + the troops proved wise and successful. The Texans soon + broke battery and retreated down the canyon a mile or more, + but from some cause Captain Howland failed to charge as + ordered, which enabled the Confederates to take up a new + and strong position, where they formed battery, threw their + supports well up the sides of the mountain, and again + opened fire. + + Chivington dismounted Captains Howland and Lord with their + regulars, leaving their horses in charge of every fourth + man, and ordered them to join Captain Downing on the left, + taking orders from him. Our skirmishers advanced, and, + flanking the enemy's supports, drove them pell-mell down + the mountain-side, when Captain Samuel Cook, with Company F, + First Colorado, having been signalled by the major, made + as gallant and successful a charge through the canyon, + through the ranks of the Confederates and back, as was + ever performed. Meanwhile, our infantry advanced rapidly; + when the enemy commenced his retreat a second time, they + were well ahead of him on the mountain-sides and poured + a galling fire into him, which thoroughly demoralized and + broke him up, compelling the entire body to seek shelter + among the rocks down the canyon and in some cabins that + stood by the wayside. + + After an hour spent in collecting the prisoners, and + caring for the wounded, both Federal and Confederate, + the latter having left in killed, wounded, and prisoners + a number equal to our whole force in the field, the first + baptism by fire of our volunteers terminated. The victory + was decided and complete. Night intervening, and there + being no water in the canyon, the little command fell back + to Pigeon's Ranch, whence a courier was despatched to + Colonel Slough, advising him of the engagement and its + result, and requesting him to bring forward the main + command as rapidly as possible, as the enemy with all his + forces had moved from Santa Fe toward Fort Union. + + After interring the dead and making a comfortable hospital + for the wounded, on the afternoon of the 27th Chivington + fell back to the Pecos River at Kosloskie's Ranch and + encamped. On receiving the news from Apache Canyon, + Colonel Slough put his forces in motion, and at eleven + o'clock at night of the 27th joined Chivington at Kosloskie's. + + At daybreak on the 28th, the assembly was sounded, and + the entire command resumed its march. Five miles out + from their encampment Major Chivington, in command of + a detachment composed of Companies A, B, H, and E of the + First Colorado, and Captain Ford's Company unattached, + with Captain Lewis' Company of the Fifth Regular Infantry, + was ordered to take the Galisteo road, and by a detour + through the mountains to gain the enemy's rear, if possible, + at the west end of Apache Canyon, while Slough advanced + slowly with the main body to gain his front about the + same time; thus devising an attack in front and rear. + + About ten o'clock, while making his way through the scrub + pine and cedar brush in the mountains, Major Chivington + and his command heard cannonading to their right, and + were thereby apprised that Colonel Slough and his men + had met the enemy. About twelve o'clock he arrived with + his men on the summit of the mountain which overlooked + the enemy's supply wagons, which had been left in the + charge of a strong guard with one piece of artillery mounted + on an elevation commanding the camp and mouth of the canyon. + With great difficulty Chivington descended the precipitous + mountain, charged, took, and spiked the gun, ran together + the enemy's supply wagons of commissary, quartermaster, + and ordnance stores, set them on fire, blew and burnt + them up, bayoneted his mules in corral, took the guard + prisoners and reascended the mountain, where about dark + he was met by Lieutenant Cobb, aide-de-camp on Colonel + Slough's staff, with the information that Slough and his + men had been defeated and had fallen back to Kosloskie's. + Upon the supposition that this information was correct, + Chivington, under the guidance of a French Catholic priest, + in the intensest darkness, with great difficulty made + his way with his command through the mountains without + a road or trail, and joined Colonel Slough about midnight. + + Meanwhile, after Chivington and his detachment had left + in the morning, Colonel Slough with the main body proceeded + up the canyon, and arriving at Pigeon's Ranch, gave orders + for the troops to stack arms in the road and supply their + canteens with water, as that would be the last opportunity + before reaching the further end of Apache Canyon. + While thus supplying themselves with water and visiting + the wounded in the hospital at Pigeon's Ranch, being + entirely off their guard, they were suddenly startled by + a courier from the advance column dashing down the road + at full speed and informing them that the enemy was close + at hand. Orders were immediately given to fall in and + take arms, but before the order could be obeyed the enemy + had formed battery and commenced shelling them. + They formed as quickly as possible, the colonel ordering + Captain Downing with Company D, First Colorado Volunteers, + to advance on the left, and Captain Kerber with Company I + First Colorado, to advance on the right. In the meantime + Ritter and Claflin opened a return fire on the enemy with + their batteries. Captain Downing advanced and fought + desperately, meeting a largely superior force in point + of numbers, until he was almost overpowered and surrounded; + when, happily, Captain Wilder of Company G of the First + Colorado, with a detachment of his command, came to his + relief, and extricated him and that portion of his Company + not already slaughtered. While on the opposite side, + the right, Company I had advanced into an open space, + feeling the enemy, and ambitious of capturing his battery, + when they were surprised by a detachment which was concealed + in an arroya, and which, when Kerber and his men were + within forty feet of it, opened a galling fire upon them. + Kerber lost heavily; Lieutenant Baker, being wounded, + fell back. In the meantime the enemy masked, and made + five successive charges on our batteries, determined to + capture them as they had captured Canby's at Valverde. + At one time they were within forty yards of Slough's + batteries, their slouch hats drawn down over their faces, + and rushing on with deafening yells. It seemed inevitable + that they would make the capture, when Captain Claflin + gave the order to cease firing, and Captain Samuel Robbins + with his company, K of the First Colorado, arose from the + ground like ghosts, delivering a galling fire, charged + bayonets, and on the double-quick put the rebels to flight. + + During the whole of this time the cavalry, under Captain + Howland, were held in reserve, never moving except to + fall back and keep out of danger, with the exception of + Captain Cook's men, who dismounted and fought as infantry. + From the opening of the battle to its close the odds were + against Colonel Slough and his forces; the enemy being + greatly superior in numbers, with a better armament of + artillery and equally well armed otherwise. But every inch + of ground was stubbornly contested. In no instance did + Slough's forces fall back until they were in danger of + being flanked and surrounded, and for nine hours, without + rest or refreshment, the battle raged incessantly. + At one time Claflin gave orders to double-shot his guns, + they being nothing but little brass howitzers, and he + counted, "One, two, three, four," until one of his own + carriages capsized and fell down into the gulch; from which + place Captain Samuel Robbins and his company, K, extricated + it and saved it from falling into the enemy's hands. + + Having been compelled to give ground all day, Colonel Slough, + between five and six o'clock in the afternoon, issued + orders to retreat. About the same time General Sibley + received information from the rear of the destruction of + his supply trains, and ordered a flag of truce to be sent + to Colonel Slough, which did not reach him, however, until + he arrived at Kosloskie's. A truce was entered into until + nine o'clock the next morning, which was afterward extended + to twenty-four hours, and under which Sibley with his + demoralized forces fell back to Santa Fe, laying that town + under tribute to supply his forces. + + The 29th was spent in burying the dead, as well as those + of the Confederates which they left on the field, and + caring for the wounded. Orders were received from General + Canby directing Colonel Slough to fall back to Fort Union, + which so incensed him that while obeying the order he + forwarded his resignation, and soon after left the command. + +Thus ended the battle of La Glorieta. + + + + +CHAPTER XII.[41] +THE BUFFALO. + + + +The ancient range of the buffalo, according to history and tradition, +once extended from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains, embracing +all that magnificent portion of North America known as the Mississippi +valley; from the frozen lakes above to the "Tierras Calientes" of +Mexico, far to the south. + +It seems impossible, especially to those who have seen them, as +numerous, apparently, as the sands of the seashore, feeding on the +illimitable natural pastures of the great plains, that the buffalo +should have become almost extinct. + +When I look back only twenty-five years, and recall the fact that +they roamed in immense numbers even then, as far east as Fort Harker, +in Central Kansas, a little more than two hundred miles from the +Missouri River, I ask myself, "Have they all disappeared?" + +An idea may be formed of how many buffalo were killed from 1868 to +1881, a period of only thirteen years, during which time they were +indiscriminately slaughtered for their hides. In Kansas alone +there was paid out, between the dates specified, two million five +hundred thousand dollars for their bones gathered on the prairies, +to be utilized by the various carbon works of the country, principally +in St. Louis. It required about one hundred carcasses to make one +ton of bones, the price paid averaging eight dollars a ton; so the +above-quoted enormous sum represented the skeletons of over thirty-one +millions of buffalo.[42] These figures may appear preposterous to +readers not familiar with the great plains a third of a century ago; +but to those who have seen the prairie black from horizon to horizon +with the shaggy monsters, they are not so. In the autumn of 1868 +I rode with Generals Sheridan, Custer, Sully, and others, for three +consecutive days, through one continuous herd, which must have +contained millions. In the spring of 1869 the train on the Kansas +Pacific Railroad was delayed at a point between Forts Harker and +Hays, from nine o'clock in the morning until five in the afternoon, +in consequence of the passage of an immense herd of buffalo across +the track. On each side of us, and to the west as far as we could +see, our vision was only limited by the extended horizon of the flat +prairie, and the whole vast area was black with the surging mass +of affrighted buffaloes as they rushed onward to the south. + +In 1868 the Union Pacific Railroad and its branch in Kansas was nearly +completed across the plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, +the western limit of the buffalo range, and that year witnessed +the beginning of the wholesale and wanton slaughter of the great +ruminants, which ended only with their practical extinction seventeen +years afterward. The causes of this hecatomb of animals on the +great plains were the incursion of regular hunters into the region, +for the hides of the buffalo, and the crowds of tourists who crossed +the continent for the mere pleasure and novelty of the trip. +The latter class heartlessly killed for the excitement of the +new experience as they rode along in the cars at a low rate of speed, +often never touching a particle of the flesh of their victims, +or possessing themselves of a single robe. The former, numbering +hundreds of old frontiersmen, all expert shots, with thousands of +novices, the pioneer settlers on the public domain, just opened +under the various land laws, from beyond the Platte to far south +of the Arkansas, within transporting distance of two railroads, +day after day for years made it a lucrative business to kill for +the robes alone, a market for which had suddenly sprung up all over +the country. + +On either side of the track of the two lines of railroads running +through Kansas and Nebraska, within a relatively short distance +and for nearly their whole length, the most conspicuous objects +in those days were the desiccated carcasses of the noble beasts +that had been ruthlessly slaughtered by the thoughtless and excited +passengers on their way across the continent. On the open prairie, +too, miles away from the course of legitimate travel, in some places +one could walk all day on the dead bodies of the buffaloes killed +by the hide-hunters, without stepping off them to the ground. + +The best robes, in their relation to thickness of fur and lustre, +were those taken during the winter months, particularly February, +at which period the maximum of density and beauty had been reached. +Then, notwithstanding the sudden and fitful variations of temperature +incident to our mid-continent climate, the old hunters were especially +active, and accepted unusual risks to procure as many of the coveted +skins as possible. A temporary camp would be established under +the friendly shelter of some timbered stream, from which the hunters +would radiate every morning, and return at night after an arduous +day's work, to smoke their pipes and relate their varied adventures +around the fire of blazing logs. + +Sometimes when far away from camp a blizzard would come down from +the north in all its fury without ten minutes' warning, and in a +few seconds the air, full of blinding snow, precluded the possibility +of finding their shelter, an attempt at which would only result +in an aimless circular march on the prairie. On such occasions, +to keep from perishing by the intense cold, they would kill a buffalo, +and, taking out its viscera, creep inside the huge cavity, enough +animal heat being retained until the storm had sufficiently abated +for them to proceed with safety to their camp. + +Early in March, 1867, a party of my friends, all old buffalo hunters, +were camped in Paradise valley, then a famous rendezvous of the +animals they were after. One day when out on the range stalking, +and widely separated from each other, a terrible blizzard came up. +Three of the hunters reached their camp without much difficulty, +but he who was farthest away was fairly caught in it, and night +overtaking him, he was compelled to resort to the method described +in the preceding paragraph. Luckily, he soon came up with a +superannuated bull that had been abandoned by the herd; so he killed +him, took out his viscera and crawled inside the empty carcass, where +he lay comparatively comfortable until morning broke, when the storm +had passed over and the sun shone brightly. But when he attempted +to get out, he found himself a prisoner, the immense ribs of the +creature having frozen together, and locked him up as tightly as if +he were in a cell. Fortunately, his companions, who were searching +for him, and firing their rifles from time to time, heard him yell +in response to the discharge of their pieces, and thus discovered and +released him from the peculiar predicament into which he had fallen. + +At another time, several years before the acquisition of New Mexico +by the United States, two old trappers were far up on the Arkansas +near the Trail, in the foot-hills hunting buffalo, and they, as is +generally the case, became separated. In an hour or two one of them +killed a fat young cow, and, leaving his rifle on the ground, went up +and commenced to skin her. While busily engaged in his work, +he suddenly heard right behind him a suppressed snort, and looking +around he saw to his dismay a monstrous grizzly ambling along in +that animal's characteristic gait, within a few feet of him. + +In front, only a few rods away, there happened to be a clump of +scrubby pines, and he incontinently made a break for them, climbing +into the tallest in less time than it takes to tell of it. The bear +deliberately ate a hearty meal off the juicy hams of the cow, +so providentially fallen in his way, and when he had satiated himself, +instead of going away, he quietly stretched himself alongside of +the half-devoured carcass, and went to sleep, keeping one eye open, +however, on the movements of the unlucky hunter whom he had corralled +in the tree. In the early evening his partner came to the spot, +and killed the impudent bear, that, being full of tender buffalo meat, +was sluggish and unwary, and thus became an easy victim to the +unerring rifle; when the unwilling prisoner came down from his perch +in the pine, feeling sheepish enough. The last time I saw him he +told me he still had the bear's hide, which he religiously preserved +as a memento of his foolishness in separating himself from his rifle, +a thing he has never been guilty of before or since. + +Kit Carson, when with Fremont on his first exploring expedition, +while hunting for the command, at some point on the Arkansas, +left a buffalo which he had just killed and partly cut up, to pursue +a large bull that came rushing by him alone. He chased his game +for nearly a quarter of a mile, not being able, however, to gain +on it rapidly, owing to the blown condition of his horse. Coming up +at length to the side of the fleeing beast, Carson fired, but at the +same instant his horse stepped into a prairie-dog hole, fell down +and threw Kit fully fifteen feet over his head. The bullet struck +the buffalo low under the shoulder, which only served to enrage him +so that the next moment the infuriated animal was pursuing Kit, +who, fortunately not much hurt, was able to run toward the river. +It was a race for life now, Carson using his nimble legs to the +utmost of their capacity, accelerated very much by the thundering, +bellowing bull bringing up the rear. For several minutes it was +nip and tuck which should reach the stream first, but Kit got there +by a scratch a little ahead. It was a big bend of the river, and +the water was deep under the bank, but it was paradise compared +with the hades plunging at his back; so Kit leaped into the water, +trusting to Providence that the bull would not follow. The trust +was well placed, for the bull did not continue the pursuit, but stood +on the bank and shook his head vehemently at the struggling hunter +who had preferred deep waves to the horns of a dilemma on shore. + +Kit swam around for some time, carefully guarded by the bull, until +his position was observed by one of his companions, who attacked +the belligerent animal successfully with a forty-four slug, and then +Kit crawled out and--skinned the enemy! + +He once killed five buffaloes during a single race, and used but +four balls, having dismounted and cut the bullet from the wound +of the fourth, and thus continued the chase. He it was, too, who +established his reputation as a famous hunter by shooting a buffalo +cow during an impetuous race down a steep hill, discharging his rifle +just as the animal was leaping on one of the low cedars peculiar +to the region. The ball struck a vital spot, and the dead cow +remained in the jagged branches. The Indians who were with him +on that hunt looked upon the circumstance as something beyond their +comprehension, and insisted that Kit should leave the carcass in +the tree as "Big Medicine." Katzatoa (Smoked Shield), a celebrated +chief of the Kiowas many years ago, who was over seven feet tall, +never mounted a horse when hunting the buffalo; he always ran after +them on foot and killed them with his lance. + +Two Lance, another famous chief, could shoot an arrow entirely +through a buffalo while hunting on horseback. He accomplished this +remarkable feat in the presence of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, +who was under the care of Buffalo Bill, near Fort Hays, Kansas. + +During one of Fremont's expeditions, two of his chasseurs, named +Archambeaux and La Jeunesse,[43] had a curious adventure on a +buffalo-hunt. One of them was mounted on a mule, the other on +a horse; they came in sight of a large band of buffalo feeding upon +the open prairie about a mile distant. The mule was not fleet enough, +and the horse was too much fatigued with the day's journey, to justify +a race, and they concluded to approach the herd on foot. Dismounting +and securing the ends of their lariats in the ground, they made +a slight detour, to take advantage of the wind, and crept stealthily +in the direction of the game, approaching unperceived until within +a few hundred yards. Some old bulls forming the outer picket guard +slowly raised their heads and gazed long and dubiously at the strange +objects, when, discovering that the intruders were not wolves, but two +hunters, they gave a significant grunt, turned about as though on +pivots, and in less than no time the whole herd--bulls, cows, and +calves--were making the gravel fly over the prairie in fine style, +leaving the hunters to their discomfiture. They had scarcely +recovered from their surprise, when, to their great consternation, +they beheld the whole company of the monsters, numbering several +thousand, suddenly shape their course to where the riding animals +were picketed. The charge of the stampeded buffalo was a magnificent +one; for the buffalo, mistaking the horse and the mule for two of +their own species, came down upon them like a tornado. A small cloud +of dust arose for a moment over the spot where the hunter's animals +had been left; the black mass moved on with accelerated speed, and +in a few seconds the horizon shut them all from view. The horse +and mule, with all their trappings, saddles, bridles, and holsters, +were never seen or heard of afterward. + +Buffalo Bill, in less than eighteen months, while employed as hunter +of the construction company of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, in 1867-68, +killed nearly five thousand buffalo, which were consumed by the +twelve hundred men employed in track-laying. He tells in his +autobiography of the following remarkable experience he had at one +time with his favourite horse Brigham, on an impromptu buffalo hunt:-- + + One day we were pushed for horses to work on our scrapers, + so I hitched up Brigham, to see how he would work. He was + not much used to that kind of labour, and I was about giving + up the idea of making a work horse of him, when one of the + men called to me that there were some buffaloes coming over + the hill. As there had been no buffaloes seen anywhere + in the vicinity of the camp for several days, we had become + rather short of meat. I immediately told one of our men + to hitch his horses to a wagon and follow me, as I was going + out after the herd, and we would bring back some fresh meat + for supper. I had no saddle, as mine had been left at camp + a mile distant, so taking the harness from Brigham I mounted + him bareback, and started out after the game, being armed + with my celebrated buffalo killer Lucretia Borgia--a newly + improved breech-loading needle-gun, which I had obtained + from the government. + + While I was riding toward the buffaloes, I observed five + horsemen coming out from the fort, who had evidently seen + the buffaloes from the post, and were going out for a chase. + They proved to be some newly arrived officers in that part + of the country, and when they came up closer I could see + by the shoulder-straps that the senior was a captain, + while the others were lieutenants. + + "Hello! my friend," sang out the captain; "I see you are + after the same game we are." + + "Yes, sir; I saw those buffaloes coming over the hill, + and as we were about out of fresh meat I thought I would + go and get some," said I. + + They scanned my cheap-looking outfit pretty closely, and + as my horse was not very prepossessing in appearance, having + on only a blind bridle, and otherwise looking like a work + horse, they evidently considered me a green hand at hunting. + + "Do you expect to catch those buffaloes on that Gothic + steed?" laughingly asked the captain. + + "I hope so, by pushing on the reins hard enough," was + my reply. + + "You'll never catch them in the world, my fine fellow," + said the captain. "It requires a fast horse to overtake + the animals on the prairie." + + "Does it?" asked I, as if I didn't know it. + + "Yes; but come along with us, as we are going to kill them + more for pleasure than anything else. All we want are the + tongues and a piece of tenderloin, and you may have all + that is left," said the generous man. + + "I am much obliged to you, captain, and will follow you," + I replied. + + There were eleven buffaloes in the herd, and they were not + more than a mile ahead of us. The officers dashed on as if + they had a sure thing on killing them all before I could + come up with them; but I had noticed that the herd was + making toward the creek for water, and as I knew buffalo + nature, I was perfectly aware that it would be difficult + to turn them from their direct course. Thereupon, I started + toward the creek to head them off, while the officers + came up in the rear and gave chase. + + The buffaloes came rushing past me not a hundred yards + distant, with the officers about three hundred yards in + the rear. Now, thought I, is the time to "get my work in," + as they say; and I pulled off the blind bridle from my + horse, who knew as well as I did that we were out after + buffaloes, as he was a trained hunter. The moment the + bridle was off he started at the top of his speed, running + in ahead of the officers, and with a few jumps he brought me + alongside the rear buffalo. Raising old Lucretia Borgia + to my shoulder, I fired, and killed the animal at the + first shot. My horse then carried me alongside the next + one, not ten feet away, and I dropped him at the next fire. + + As soon as one of the buffalo would fall, Brigham would + take me so close to the next that I could almost touch it + with my gun. In this manner I killed the eleven buffaloes + with twelve shots; and as the last animal dropped, my horse + stopped. I jumped off to the ground, knowing that he would + not leave me--it must be remembered that I had been riding + him without bridle, reins, or saddle--and, turning around + as the party of astonished officers rode up, I said to them:-- + + "Now, gentlemen, allow me to present to you all the tongues + and tenderloins you wish from these buffaloes." + + Captain Graham, for such I soon learned was his name, + replied: "Well, I never saw the like before. Who under + the sun are you, anyhow?" + + "My name is Cody," said I. + + Captain Graham, who was considerable of a horseman, + greatly admired Brigham, and said: "That horse of yours + has running points." + + "Yes, sir; he has not only got the points, he is a runner + and knows how to use the points," said I. + + "So I noticed," said the captain. + + They all finally dismounted, and we continued chatting + for some little time upon the different subjects of horses, + buffaloes, hunting, and Indians. They felt a little sore + at not getting a single shot at the buffaloes; but the way + I had killed them, they said, amply repaid them for their + disappointment. They had read of such feats in books, + but this was the first time they had ever seen anything + of the kind with their own eyes. It was the first time, + also, that they had ever witnessed or heard of a white man + running buffaloes on horseback without a saddle or bridle. + + I told them that Brigham knew nearly as much about the + business as I did, and if I had twenty bridles they would + have been of no use to me, as he understood everything, + and all that he expected of me was to do the shooting. + It is a fact that Brigham would stop if a buffalo did not + fall at the first fire, so as to give me a second chance; + but if I did not kill the animal then, he would go on, as + if to say, "You are no good, and I will not fool away my + time by giving you more than two shots." Brigham was the + best horse I ever saw or owned for buffalo chasing. + +At one time an old, experienced buffalo hunter was following at the +heels of a small herd with that reckless rush to which in the +excitement of the chase men abandon themselves, when a great bull +just in front of him tumbled into a ravine. The rider's horse fell +also, throwing the old hunter over his head sprawling, but with +strange accuracy right between the bull's horns! The first to +recover from the terrible shock and to regain his legs was the horse, +which ran off with wonderful alacrity several miles before he stopped. +Next the bull rose, and shook himself with an astonished air, as if +he would like to know "how that was done?" The hunter was on the +great brute's back, who, perhaps, took the affair as a good practical +joke; but he was soon pitched to the ground, as the buffalo commenced +to jump "stiff-legged," and the latter, giving the hunter one +lingering look, which he long remembered, with remarkable good nature +ran off to join his companions. Had the bull been wounded, the rider +would have been killed, as the then enraged animal would have gored +and trampled him to death. + +An officer of the old regular army told me many years ago that in +crossing the plains a herd of buffalo were fired at by a twelve-pound +howitzer, the ball of which wounded and stunned an immense bull. +Nevertheless, heedless of a hundred shots that had been fired at him, +and of a bulldog belonging to one of the officers, which had fastened +himself to his lips, the enraged beast charged upon the whole troop +of dragoons, and tossed one of the horses like a feather. Bull, +horse, and rider all fell in a heap. Before the dust cleared away, +the trooper, who had hung for a moment to one of the bull's horns +by his waistband, crawled out safe, while the horse got a ball from +a rifle through his neck while in the air and two great rips in his +flank from the bull. + +In 1839 Kit Carson and Hobbs were trapping with a party on the +Arkansas River, not far from Bent's Fort. Among the trappers was +a green Irishman, named O'Neil, who was quite anxious to become +proficient in hunting, and it was not long before he received his +first lesson. Every man who went out of camp after game was expected +to bring in "meat" of some kind. O'Neil said that he would agree +to the terms, and was ready one evening to start out on his first +hunt alone. He picked up his rifle and stalked after a small herd +of buffalo in plain sight on the prairie not more than five or six +hundred yards from camp. + +All the trappers who were not engaged in setting their traps or +cooking supper were watching O'Neil. Presently they heard the report +of his rifle, and shortly after he came running into camp, bareheaded, +without his gun, and with a buffalo bull close upon his heels; +both going at full speed, and the Irishman shouting like a madman,-- + +"Here we come, by jabers. Stop us! For the love of God, stop us!" + +Just as they came in among the tents, with the bull not more than +six feet in the rear of O'Neil, who was frightened out of his wits +and puffing like a locomotive, his foot caught in a tent-rope, and +over he went into a puddle of water head foremost, and in his fall +capsized several camp-kettles, some of which contained the trappers' +supper. But the buffalo did not escape so easily; for Hobbs and +Kit Carson jumped for their rifles, and dropped the animal before +he had done any further damage. + +The whole outfit laughed heartily at O'Neil when he got up out of +the water, for a party of old trappers would show no mercy to any +of their companions who met with a mishap of that character; but +as he stood there with dripping clothes and face covered with mud, +his mother-wit came to his relief and he declared he had accomplished +the hunter's task: "For sure," said he, "haven't I fetched the mate +into camp? and there was no bargain whether it should be dead or alive!" + +Upon Kit's asking O'Neil where his gun was,-- + +"Sure," said he, "that's more than I can tell you." + +Next morning Carson and Hobbs took up O'Neil's tracks and the +buffalo's, and after hunting an hour or so found the Irishman's rifle, +though he had little use for it afterward, as he preferred to cook +and help around camp rather than expose his precious life fighting +buffaloes. + +A great herd of buffaloes on the plains in the early days, when one +could approach near enough without disturbing it to quietly watch +its organization and the apparent discipline which its leaders seemed +to exact, was a very curious sight. Among the striking features +of the spectacle was the apparently uniform manner in which the +immense mass of shaggy animals moved; there was constancy of action +indicating a degree of intelligence to be found only in the most +intelligent of the brute creation. Frequently the single herd was +broken up into many smaller ones, that travelled relatively close +together, each led by an independent master. Perhaps a few rods +only marked the dividing-line between them, but it was always +unmistakably plain, and each moved synchronously in the direction +in which all were going. + +The leadership of a herd was attained only by hard struggles for the +place; once reached, however, the victor was immediately recognized, +and kept his authority until some new aspirant overcame him, or he +became superannuated and was driven out of the herd to meet his +inevitable fate, a prey to those ghouls of the desert, the gray wolves. + +In the event of a stampede, every animal of the separate, yet +consolidated, herds rushed off together, as if they had all gone mad +at once; for the buffalo, like the Texas steer, mule, or domestic +horse, stampedes on the slightest provocation; frequently without +any assignable cause. The simplest affair, sometimes, will start +the whole herd; a prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, +a shadow of one of themselves or that of a passing cloud, is +sufficient to make them run for miles as if a real and dangerous +enemy were at their heels. + +Like an army, a herd of buffaloes put out vedettes to give the alarm +in case anything beyond the ordinary occurred. These sentinels were +always to be seen in groups of four, five, or even six, at some +distance from the main body. When they perceived something approaching +that the herd should beware of or get away from, they started on +a run directly for the centre of the great mass of their peacefully +grazing congeners. Meanwhile, the young bulls were on duty as +sentinels on the edge of the main herd watching the vedettes; +the moment the latter made for the centre, the former raised their +heads, and in the peculiar manner of their species gazed all around +and sniffed the air as if they could smell both the direction and +source of the impending danger. Should there be something which their +instinct told them to guard against, the leader took his position +in front, the cows and calves crowded in the centre, while the rest +of the males gathered on the flanks and in the rear, indicating +a gallantry that might be emulated at times by the genus homo. + +Generally buffalo went to their drinking-places but once a day, and +that late in the afternoon. Then they ambled along, following each +other in single file, which accounts for the many trails on the +plains, always ending at some stream or lake. They frequently +travelled twenty or thirty miles for water, so the trails leading +to it were often worn to the depth of a foot or more. + +That curious depression so frequently seen on the great plains, +called a buffalo-wallow, is caused in this wise: The huge animals +paw and lick the salty, alkaline earth, and when once the sod is +broken the loose dirt drifts away under the constant action of +the wind. Then, year after year, through more pawing, licking, +rolling, and wallowing by the animals, the wind wafts more of the +soil away, and soon there is a considerable hole in the prairie. + +Many an old trapper and hunter's life has been saved by following +a buffalo-trail when he was suffering from thirst. The buffalo-wallows +retain usually a great quantity of water, and they have often saved +the lives of whole companies of cavalry, both men and horses. + +There was, however, a stranger and more wonderful spectacle to be seen +every recurring spring during the reign of the buffalo, soon after +the grass had started. There were circles trodden bare on the plains, +thousands, yes, millions of them, which the early travellers, who did +not divine their cause, called fairy-rings. From the first of April +until the middle of May was the wet season; you could depend upon its +recurrence almost as certainly as on the sun and moon rising at their +proper time. This was also the calving period of the buffalo, as +they, unlike our domestic cattle, only rutted during a single month; +consequently, the cows all calved during a certain time; this was the +wet month, and as there were a great many gray wolves that roamed +singly and in immense packs over the whole prairie region, the bulls, +in their regular beats, kept guard over the cows while in the act +of parturition, and drove the wolves away, walking in a ring around +the females at a short distance, and thus forming the curious circles. + +In every herd at each recurring season there were always ambitious +young bulls that came to their majority, so to speak, and these were +ever ready to test their claims for the leadership, so that it may +be safely stated that a month rarely passed without a bloody battle +between them for the supremacy; though, strangely enough, the struggle +scarcely ever resulted in the death of either combatant. + +Perhaps there is no animal in which maternal love is so wonderfully +developed as the buffalo cow; she is as dangerous with a calf by +her side as a she-grizzly with cubs, as all old mountaineers know. + +The buffalo bull that has outlived his usefulness is one of the most +pitiable objects in the whole range of natural history. Old age +has probably been decided in the economy of buffalo life as the +unpardonable sin. Abandoned to his fate, he may be discovered, +in his dreary isolation, near some stream or lake, where it does not +tax him too severely to find good grass; for he is now feeble, and +exertion an impossibility. In this new stage of his existence he +seems to have completely lost his courage. Frightened at his own +shadow, or the rustling of a leaf, he is the very incarnation of +nervousness and suspicion. Gregarious in his habits from birth, +solitude, foreign to his whole nature, has changed him into a new +creature; and his inherent terror of the most trivial things is +intensified to such a degree that if a man were compelled to undergo +such constant alarm, it would probably drive him insane in less than +a week. Nobody ever saw one of these miserable and helplessly +forlorn creatures dying a natural death, or ever heard of such an +occurrence. The cowardly coyote and the gray wolf had already +marked him for their own; and they rarely missed their calculations. + +Riding suddenly to the top of a divide once with a party of friends +in 1866, we saw standing below us in the valley an old buffalo bull, +the very picture of despair. Surrounding him were seven gray wolves +in the act of challenging him to mortal combat. The poor beast, +undoubtedly realizing the utter hopelessness of his situation, +had determined to die game. His great shaggy head, filled with burrs, +was lowered to the ground as he confronted his would-be executioners; +his tongue, black and parched, lolled out of his mouth, and he gave +utterance at intervals to a suppressed roar. + +The wolves were sitting on their haunches in a semi-circle immediately +in front of the tortured beast, and every time that the fear-stricken +buffalo would give vent to his hoarsely modulated groan, the wolves +howled in concert in most mournful cadence. + +After contemplating his antagonists for a few moments, the bull made +a dash at the nearest wolf, tumbling him howling over the silent +prairie; but while this diversion was going on in front, the remainder +of the pack started for his hind legs, to hamstring him. Upon this +the poor brute turned to the point of attack only to receive a +repetition of it in the same vulnerable place by the wolves, who had +as quickly turned also and fastened themselves on his heels again. +His hind quarters now streamed with blood and he began to show signs +of great physical weakness. He did not dare to lie down; that would +have been instantly fatal. By this time he had killed three of the +wolves or so maimed them that they were entirely out of the fight. + +At this juncture the suffering animal was mercifully shot, and the +wolves allowed to batten on his thin and tough carcass. + +Often there are serious results growing out of a stampede, either by +mules or a herd of buffalo. A portion of the Fifth United States +Infantry had a narrow escape from a buffalo stampede on the Old Trail, +in the early summer of 1866. General George A. Sykes, who commanded +the Division of Regulars in the Army of the Potomac during the +Civil War, was ordered to join his regiment, stationed in New Mexico, +and was conducting a body of recruits, with their complement of +officers, to fill up the decimated ranks of the army stationed at +the various military posts, in far-off Greaser Land. + +The command numbered nearly eight hundred, including the subaltern +officers. These recruits, or the majority of them at least, were +recruits in name only; they had seen service in many a hard campaign +of the Rebellion. Some, of course, were beardless youths just out +of their teens, full of that martial ardour which induced so many +young men of the nation to follow the drum on the remote plains and +in the fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains, where the wily savages +still held almost undisputed sway, and were a constant menace to +the pioneer settlers. + +One morning, when the command had just settled itself in careless +repose on the short grass of the apparently interminable prairie +at the first halt of the day's march, a short distance beyond +Fort Larned, a strange noise, like the low muttering of thunder +below the horizon, greeted the ears of the little army. + +All were startled by the ominous sound, unlike anything they had +heard before on their dreary tour. The general ordered his scouts +out to learn the cause; could it be Indians? Every eye was strained +for something out of the ordinary. Even the horses of the officers +and the mules of the supply-train were infected by something that +seemed impending; they grew restless, stamped the earth, and vainly +essayed to stampede, but were prevented by their hobbles and +picket-pins. + +Presently one of the scouts returned from over the divide, and +reported to the general that an immense herd of buffalo was tearing +down toward the Trail, and from the great clouds of dust they raised, +which obscured the horizon, there must have been ten thousand of them. +The roar wafted to the command, and which seemed so mysterious, +was made by their hoofs as they rattled over the dry prairie. + +The sound increased in volume rapidly, and soon a black, surging mass +was discovered bearing right down on the Trail. Behind it could be +seen a cavalcade of about five hundred Cheyennes, Comanches, and +Kiowas, who had maddened the shaggy brutes, hoping to capture the +train without an attack by forcing the frightened animals to overrun +the command. + +Luckily, something caused the herd to open before it reached the +foot of the divide, and it passed in two masses, leaving the command +between, not two hundred feet from either division of the infuriated +beasts. + +The rage of the savages was evident when they saw that their attempt +to annihilate the troops had failed, and they rode off sullenly into +the sand hills, as the number of soldiers was too great for them +to think of charging. + +Cody tells of a buffalo stampede which he witnessed in his youth +on the plains, when he was a wagon-master. The caravan was on its +way with government stores for the military posts in the mountains, +and the wagons were hauled by oxen. + +He says: + The country was alive with buffalo, and besides killing + quite a number we had a rare day for sport. One morning + we pulled out of camp, and the train was strung out to a + considerable length along the Trail, which ran near the foot + of the sand hills, two miles from the river. Between the + road and the river we saw a large herd of buffalo grazing + quietly, they having been down to the stream to drink. + Just at this time we observed a party of returning + Californians coming from the west. They, too, noticed + the buffalo herd, and in another moment they were dashing + down upon them, urging their horses to their greatest speed. + The buffalo herd stampeded at once, and broke down the sides + of the hills; so hotly were they pursued by the hunters + that about five hundred of them rushed pell-mell through + our caravan, frightening both men and oxen. Some of the + wagons were turned clear around and many of the terrified + oxen attempted to run to the hills with the heavy wagons + attached to them. Others were turned around so short + that they broke the tongues off. Nearly all the teams + got entangled in their gearing and became wild and unruly, + so that the perplexed drivers were unable to manage them. + + The buffalo, the cattle, and the men were soon running + in every direction, and the excitement upset everybody + and everything. Many of the oxen broke their yokes and + stampeded. One big buffalo bull became entangled in one + of the heavy wagon-chains, and it is a fact that in his + desperate efforts to free himself, he not only snapped + the strong chain in two, but broke the ox-yoke to which + it was attached, and the last seen of him he was running + toward the hills with it hanging from his horns. + +Stampedes were a great source of profit to the Indians of the plains. +The Comanches were particularly expert and daring in this kind of +robbery. They even trained their horses to run from one point to +another in expectation of the coming of the trains. When a camp +was made that was nearly in range, they turned their trained animals +loose, which at once flew across the prairie, passing through the +herd and penetrating the very corrals of their victims. All of the +picketed horses and mules would endeavour to follow these decoys, +and were invariably led right into the haunts of the Indians, +who easily secured them. Young horses and mules were easily +frightened; and, in the confusion which generally ensued, great +injury was frequently done to the runaways themselves. + +At times when the herd was very large, the horses scattered over +the prairie and were irrevocably lost; and such as did not become +wild fell a prey to the wolves. That fate was very frequently the +lot of stampeded horses bred in the States, they not having been +trained by a prairie life to take care of themselves. Instead of +stopping and bravely fighting off the blood-thirsty beasts, they +would run. Then the whole pack were sure to leave the bolder animals +and make for the runaways, which they seldom failed to overtake +and despatch. + +On the Old Trail some years ago one of these stampedes occurred of +a band of government horses, in which were several valuable animals. +It was attended, however, with very little loss, through the courage +and great exertion of the men who had them in charge; many were +recovered, but none without having sustained injuries. + +Hon. R. M. Wright, of Dodge City, Kansas, one of the pioneers in +the days of the Santa Fe trade, and in the settlement of the State, +has had many exciting experiences both with the savages of the great +plains, and the buffalo. In relation to the habits of the latter, +no man is better qualified to speak. + +He was once owner of Fort Aubrey, a celebrated point on the Trail, +but was compelled to abandon it on account of constant persecution +by the Indians, or rather he was ordered to do so by the military +authorities. While occupying the once famous landmark, in connection +with others, had a contract to furnish hay to the government at +Fort Lyon, seventy-five miles further west. His journal, which he +kindly placed at my disposal, says: + + While we were preparing to commence the work, a vast herd + of buffalo stampeded through our range one night, and + took off with them about half of our work cattle. The next + day a stage-driver and conductor on the Overland Route told + us they had seen a number of our oxen twenty-five miles east + of Aubrey, and this information gave me an idea in which + direction to hunt for the missing beasts. I immediately + started after them, while my partner took those that + remained and a few wagons and left with them for Fort Lyon. + + Let me explain here that while the Indians were supposed to + be peaceable, small war-parties of young men, who could not + be controlled by their chiefs, were continually committing + depredations, and the main body of savages themselves were + very uneasy, and might be expected to break out any day. + In consequence of this unsettled state of affairs, there + had been a brisk movement among the United States troops + stationed at the various military posts, a large number of + whom were believed to be on the road from Denver to Fort Lyon. + + I filled my saddle-bags with jerked buffalo, hardtack and + ground coffee, and took with me a belt of cartridges, + my rifle and six-shooter, a field-glass and my blankets, + prepared for any emergency. The first day out, I found a + few of the lost cattle, and placed them on the river-bottom, + which I continued to do as fast as I recovered them, for a + distance of about eighty-five miles down the Arkansas. + There I met a wagon-train, the drivers of which told me + that I would find several more of my oxen with a train + that had arrived at the Cimarron crossing the day before. + I came up with this train in eight or ten hours' travel + south of the river, got my cattle, and started next morning + for home. + + I picked up those I had left on the Arkansas as I went + along, and after having made a very hard day's travel, + about sundown I concluded I would go into camp. I had + only fairly halted when the oxen began to drop down, + so completely tired out were they, as I believed. Just as + it was growing dark, I happened to look toward the west, + and I saw several fires on a big island, near what was + called "The Lone Tree," about a mile from where I had + determined to remain for the night. + + Thinking the fires were those of the soldiers that I had + heard were on the road from Denver, and anticipating and + longing for a cup of good coffee, as I had had none for + five days, knowing, too, that the troops would be full of + news, I felt good and determined to go over to their camp. + + The Arkansas was low, but the banks steep, with high, + rank grass growing to the very water's edge. I found + a buffalo-trail cut through the deep bank, narrow and + precipitous, and down this I went, arriving in a short time + within a little distance of my supposed soldiers' camp. + When I had reached the middle of another deep cut in the + bank, I looked across to the island, and, great Caesar! + saw a hundred little fires, around which an aggregation + of a thousand Indians were huddled! + + I slid backwards off my horse, and by dint of great exertion, + worked him up the river-bank as quietly and quickly as + possible, then led him gently away out on the prairie. + My first impulse was not to go back to the cattle; but as + we needed them very badly, I concluded to return, put them + all on their feet, and light out mighty lively, without + making any noise. I started them, and, oh dear! I was + afraid to tread upon a weed, lest it would snap and bring + the Indians down on my trail. Until I had put several + miles between them and me, I could not rest easy for + a moment. Tired as I was, tired as were both my horse + and the cattle, I drove them twenty-five miles before + I halted. Then daylight was upon me. I was at what is + known as Chouteau's Island, a once famous place in the + days of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + + Of course, I had to let the oxen and my horse rest and fill + themselves until the afternoon, and I lay down, and fell + asleep, but did not sleep long, as I thought it dangerous + to remain too near the cattle. I rose and walked up a big, + dry sand creek that opened into the river, and after I had + ascended it for a couple of miles, found the banks very + steep; in fact, they rose to a height of eighteen or twenty + feet, and were sharply cut up by narrow trails made by + the buffalo. + + The whole face of the earth was covered by buffalo, and + they were slowly grazing toward the Arkansas. All at once + they became frightened at something, and stampeded pell-mell + toward the very spot on which I stood. I quickly ran into + one of the precipitous little paths and up on the prairie, + to see what had scared them. They were making the ground + fairly tremble as their mighty multitude came rushing on + at full speed, the sound of their hoofs resembling thunder, + but in a continuous peal. It appeared to me that they must + sweep everything in their path, and for my own preservation + I rushed under the creek-bank, but on they came like a + tornado, with one old bull in the lead. He held up a second + to descend the narrow trail, and when he had got about + halfway down I let him have it; I was only a few steps from + him and over he tumbled. I don't know why I killed him; + out of pure wantonness, I expect, or perhaps I thought + it would frighten the others back. Not so, however; + they only quickened their pace, and came dashing down in + great numbers. Dozens of them stumbled and fell over the + dead bull; others fell over them. The top of the bank + was fairly swarming with them; they leaped, pitched, and + rolled down. I crouched as close to the bank as possible, + but many of them just grazed my head, knocking the sand + and gravel in great streams down my neck; indeed I was + half buried before the herd had passed over. That old bull + was the last buffalo I ever shot wantonly, excepting once, + from an ambulance while riding on the Old Trail, to please + a distinguished Englishman, who had never seen one shot; + then I did it only after his most earnest persuasion. + + One day a stage-driver named Frank Harris and myself started + out after buffalo; they were scarce, for a wonder, and + we were very hungry for fresh meat. The day was fine and + we rode a long way, expecting sooner or later a bunch would + jump up, but in the afternoon, having seen none, we gave + it up and started for the ranch. Of course, we didn't + care to save our ammunition, so shot it away at everything + in sight, skunks, rattlesnakes, prairie-dogs, and gophers, + until we had only a few loads left. Suddenly an old bull + jumped up that had been lying down in one of those + sugar-loaf-shaped sand hills, whose tops are hollowed out + by the action of the wind. Harris emptied his revolver + into him, and so did I; but the old fellow sullenly stood + still there on top of the sand hill, bleeding profusely + at the nose, and yet absolutely refusing to die, although + he would repeatedly stagger and nearly tumble over. + + It was getting late and we couldn't wait on him, so Harris + said: "I will dismount, creep up behind him, and cut his + hamstrings with my butcher-knife." The bull having now + lain down, Harris commenced operations, but his movement + seemed to infuse new life into the old fellow; he jumped + to his feet, his head lowered in the attitude of fight, + and away he went around the outside of the top of the + sand hill! It was a perfect circus with one ring; Harris, + who was a tall, lanky fellow, took hold of the enraged + animal's tail as he rose to his feet, and in a moment his + legs were flying higher than his head, but he did not dare + let go of his hold on the bull's tail, and around and + around they went; it was his only show for life. I could + not assist him a particle, but had to sit and hold his horse, + and be judge of the fight. I really thought that old bull + would never weaken. Finally, however, the "ring" performance + began to show symptoms of fatigue; slower and slower the + actions of the bull grew, and at last Harris succeeded + in cutting his hamstrings and the poor beast went down. + Harris said afterward, when the danger was all over, that + the only thing he feared was that perhaps the bull's tail + would pull out, and if it did, he was well aware that he + was a goner. We brought his tongue, hump, and a hindquarter + to the ranch with us, and had a glorious feast and a big + laugh that night with the boys over the ridiculous adventure. + +General Richard Irving Dodge, United States army, in his work on +the big game of America, says: + + It is almost impossible for a civilized being to realize + the value to the plains Indian of the buffalo. It furnished + him with home, food, clothing, bedding, horse equipment-- + almost everything. + + From 1869 to 1873 I was stationed at various posts along + the Arkansas River. Early in spring, as soon as the dry + and apparently desert prairie had begun to change its coat + of dingy brown to one of palest green, the horizon would + begin to be dotted with buffalo, single or in groups of two + or three, forerunners of the coming herd. Thick and thicker, + and in large groups they come, until by the time the grass + is well up, the whole vast landscape appears a mass of + buffalo, some individuals feeding, others lying down, but + the herd slowly moving to the northward; of their number, + it was impossible to form a conjecture. + + Determined as they are to pursue their journey northward, + yet they are exceedingly cautious and timid about it, + and on any alarm rush to the southward with all speed, + until that alarm is dissipated. Especially is this the case + when any unusual object appears in their rear, and so + utterly regardless of consequences are they, that an old + plainsman will not risk a wagon-train in such a herd, + where rising ground will permit those in front to get + a good view of their rear. + + In May, 1871, I drove in a buggy from old Fort Zarah + to Fort Larned, on the Arkansas River. The distance is + thirty-four miles. At least twenty-five miles of that + distance was through an immense herd. The whole country + was one mass of buffalo, apparently, and it was only when + actually among them, that the seemingly solid body was + seen to be an agglomeration of countless herds of from + fifty to two hundred animals, separated from the surrounding + herds by a greater or less space, but still separated. + + The road ran along the broad valley of the Arkansas. + Some miles from Zarah a low line of hills rises from the + plain on the right, gradually increasing in height and + approaching road and river, until they culminate in + Pawnee Rock. + + So long as I was in the broad, level valley, the herds + sullenly got out of my way, and, turning, stared stupidly + at me, some within thirty or forty yards. When, however, + I had reached a point where the hills were no more than + a mile from the road, the buffalo on the crests, seeing an + unusual object in their rear, turned, stared an instant, + then started at full speed toward me, stampeding and + bringing with them the numberless herds through which + they passed, and pouring down on me, no longer separated + but compacted into one immense mass of plunging animals, + mad with fright, irresistible as an avalanche. + + The situation was by no means pleasant. There was but + one hope of escape. My horse was, fortunately, a quiet + old beast, that had rushed with me into many a herd, and + been in at the death of many a buffalo. Reining him up, + I waited until the front of the mass was within fifty yards, + then, with a few well-directed shots, dropped some of + the leaders, split the herd and sent it off in two streams + to my right and left. When all had passed me, they stopped, + apparently satisfied, though thousands were yet within + reach of my rifle. After my servant had cut out the + tongues of the fallen, I proceeded on my journey, only to + have a similar experience within a mile or two, and this + occurred so often that I reached Fort Larned with twenty-six + tongues, representing the greatest number of buffalo that + I can blame myself with having murdered in one day. + + Some years, as in 1871, the buffalo appeared to move + northward in one immense column, oftentimes from twenty + to fifty miles in width, and of unknown depth from front + to rear. Other years the northward journey was made + in several parallel columns moving at the same rate and + with their numerous flankers covering a width of a hundred + or more miles. + + When the food in one locality fails, they go to another, + and toward fall, when the grass of the high prairies + becomes parched by the heat and drought, they gradually + work their way back to the south, concentrating on the + rich pastures of Texas and the Indian Territory, whence, + the same instinct acting on all, they are ready to start + together again on their northward march as soon as spring + starts the grass. + + Old plainsmen and the Indians aver that the buffalo never + return south; that each year's herd was composed of animals + which had never made the journey before, and would never + make it again. All admit the northern migration, that + being too pronounced for any one to dispute, but refuse + to admit the southern migration. Thousands of young calves + were caught and killed every spring that were produced + during this migration, and accompanied the herd northward; + but because the buffalo did not return south in one vast + body as they went north, it was stoutly maintained that + they did not go south at all. The plainsman could give + no reasonable hypothesis of his "No-return theory" on which + to base the origin of the vast herds which yearly made + their march northward. The Indian was, however, equal + to the occasion. Every plains Indian firmly believed that + the buffalo were produced in countless numbers in a country + under ground; that every spring the surplus swarmed, + like bees from a hive, out of the immense cave-like opening + in the region of the great Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain + of Texas. In 1879 Stone Calf, a celebrated chief, assured + me that he knew exactly where the caves were, though he had + never seen them; that the good God had provided this + means for the constant supply of food for the Indian, and + however recklessly the white men might slaughter, they could + never exterminate them. When last I saw him, the old man + was beginning to waver in this belief, and feared that + the "Bad God" had shut the entrances, and that his tribe + must starve. + +The old trappers and plainsmen themselves, even as early as the +beginning of the Santa Fe trade, noticed the gradual disappearance +of the buffalo, while they still existed in countless numbers. +One veteran French Canadian, an employee of the American Fur Company, +way back in the early '30's, used to mourn thus: "Mais, sacre! +les Amarican, dey go to de Missouri frontier, de buffalo he ron to +de montaigne; de trappaire wid his fusil, he follow to de Bayou +Salade, he ron again. Dans les Montaignes Espagnol, bang! bang! +toute la journee, toute la journee, go de sacre voleurs. De bison he +leave, parceque les fusils scare im vara moche, ici la de sem-sacre!" + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. +INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. + + + +Thirty-five miles before arriving at Bent's Fort, at which point +the Old Trail crossed the Arkansas, the valley widens and the prairie +falls toward the river in gentle undulations. There for many years +the three friendly tribes of plains Indians--Cheyennes, Arapahoes, +and Kiowas--established their winter villages, in order to avail +themselves of the supply of wood, to trade with the whites, and to +feed their herds of ponies on the small limbs and bark of the +cottonwood trees growing along the margin of the stream for four +or five miles. It was called Big Timbers, and was one of the most +eligible places to camp on the whole route after leaving Council Grove. +The grass, particularly on the south side of the river, was excellent; +there was an endless supply of fuel, and cool water without stint. + +In the severe winters that sometimes were fruitful of blinding +blizzards, sweeping from the north in an intensity of fury that +was almost inconceivable, the buffalo too congregated there for +shelter, and to browse on the twigs of the great trees. + +The once famous grove, though denuded of much of its timber, may +still be seen from the car windows as the trains hurry mountainward. + +Garrard, in his _Taos Trail_, presents an interesting and amusing +account of a visit to the Cheyenne village with old John Smith, +in 1847, when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, and that with +the various tribes of savages in its golden days. + + Toward the middle of the day, the village was in a great + bustle. Every squaw, child, and man had their faces + blackened--a manifestation of joy.[44] + + Pell-mell they went--men, squaws, and dogs--into the icy + river. Some hastily jerked off their leggings, and held + moccasins and dresses high out of the water. Others, too + impatient, dashed the stream from beneath their impetuous + feet, scarce taking time to draw more closely the always + worn robe. Wondering what caused all this commotion, and + looking over the river, whither the yelling, half-frantic + savages were so speedily hurrying, we saw a band of Indians + advancing toward us. As the foremost braves reined their + champing barbs on the river-bank, mingled whoops of triumph + and delight and the repeated discharge of guns filled + the air. In the hands of three were slender willow wands, + from the smaller points of which dangled as many scalps-- + the single tuft of hair on each pronouncing them Pawnees.[45] + + These were raised aloft, amid unrestrained bursts of joy + from the thrice-happy, blood-thirsty throng. Children ran + to meet their fathers, sisters their brothers, girls their + lovers, returning from the scene of victorious strife; + decrepit matrons welcomed manly sons; and aged chiefs their + boys and braves. It was a scene of affection, and a proud + day in the Cheyenne annals of prowess. That small but + gallant band were relieved of their shields and lances by + tender-hearted squaws, and accompanied to their respective + homes, to repose by the lodge-fire, consume choice meat, + and to be the heroes of the family circle. + + The drum at night sent forth its monotony of hollow sound, + and my Mexican Pedro and I, directed by the booming, + entered a lodge, vacated for the purpose, full of young men + and squaws, following one another in a continuous circle, + keeping the left knee stiff and bending the right with a + half-forward, half-backward step, as if they wanted to go on + and could not, accompanying it, every time the right foot + was raised, with an energetic, broken song, which, dying + away, was again and again sounded--"hay-a, hay-a, hay-a," + they went, laying the emphasis on the first syllable. + A drum, similar to, though larger than a tambourine, covered + with parfleche,[46] was beaten upon with a stick, producing + with the voices a sound not altogether disagreeable. + + Throughout the entire night and succeeding day the voices + of the singers and heavy notes of the drum reached us, + and at night again the same dull sound lulled me to sleep. + Before daylight our lodge was filled with careless dancers, + and the drum and voices, so unpleasing to our wearied ears, + were giving us the full benefit of their compass. Smith, + whose policy it was not to be offended, bore the infliction + as best be could, and I looked on much amused. The lodge + was so full that they stood without dancing, in a circle + round the fire, and with a swaying motion of the body + kept time to their music. + + During the day the young men, except the dancers, piled up + dry logs in a level open space near, for a grand demonstration. + At night, when it was fired, I folded my blanket over my + shoulders, comme les sauvages, and went out. The faces + of many girls were brilliant with vermilion; others were + blacked, their robes, leggings, and skin dresses glittering + with beads and quill-work. Rings and bracelets of shining + brass encircled their taper arms and fingers, and shells + dangled from their ears. Indeed, all the finery collectable + was piled on in barbarous profusion, though a few, in good + taste through poverty, wore a single band and but few rings, + with jetty hair parted in the middle, from the forehead + to the neck, terminating in two handsome braids. + + The young men who can afford the expense trade for dollars + and silver coin of less denomination--coin as a currency + is not known among them--which they flatten thin, and fasten + to a braid of buffalo hair, attached to the crown lock, + which hangs behind, outside of the robe, and adds much to + the handsome appearance of the wearer. + + The girls, numbering two hundred, fell into line together, + and the men, of whom there were two hundred and fifty, + joining, a circle was formed, which travelled around with + the same shuffling step already described. The drummers + and other musicians--twenty or twenty-five of them--marched + in a contrary direction to and from and around the fire, + inside the large ring; for at the distance kept by the + outsiders the area was one hundred and fifty feet in diameter. + The Apollonian emulators chanted the great deeds performed + by the Cheyenne warriors. As they ended, the dying strain + was caught up by the hundreds of the outside circle, who, + in fast-swelling, loud tones, poured out the burden of + their song. At this juncture the march was quickened, + the scalps of the slain were borne aloft and shaken with + wild delight, and shrill war-notes, rising above the + furious din, accelerated the pulsation and strung high + the nerves. Time-worn shields, careering in mad holders' + hands, clashed; and keen lances, once reeking in Pawnee + blood, clanged. Braves seized one another with an iron + grip, in the heat of excitement, or chimed more tenderly + in the chant, enveloped in the same robe with some maiden + as they approvingly stepped through one of their own + original polkas. + + Thirty of the chiefs and principal men were ranged by the + pile of blazing logs. By their invitation, I sat down with + them and smoked death and its concomitant train of evils to + those audacious tribes who doubt the courage or supremacy + of the brave, the great and powerful, Cheyenne nation. + +It is Indian etiquette that the first lodge a stranger enters on +visiting a village is his home as long as he remains the guest of +the tribe. It is all the same whether he be invited or not. +Upon going in, it is customary to place all your traps in the back +part, which is the most honoured spot. The proprietor always occupies +that part of his home, but invariably gives it up to a guest. +With the Cheyennes, the white man, when the tribe was at peace with +him, was ever welcome, as in the early days of the border he generally +had a supply of coffee, of which the savage is particularly fond-- +Mok-ta-bo-mah-pe, as they call it. Their salutation to the stranger +coming into the presence of the owner of a lodge is "Hook-ah-hay! +Num-whit,"--"How do you do? Stay with us." Water is then handed by +a squaw, as it is supposed a traveller is thirsty after riding; +then meat, for he must be hungry, too. A pipe is offered, and +conversation follows. + +The lodge of the Cheyennes is formed of seventeen poles, about three +inches thick at the end which rests on the ground, slender in shape, +tapering symmetrically, and eighteen feet or more in length. They are +tied together at the small ends with buffalo-hide, then raised until +the frame resembles a cone, over which buffalo-skins are placed, +very skilfully fitted and made soft by having been dubbed by the +women--that is, scraped to the requisite thinness, and made supple +by rubbing with the brains of the animal that wore it. They are +sewed together with sinews of the buffalo, generally of the long +and powerful muscle that holds up the ponderous head of the shaggy +beast, a narrow strip running towards the bump. In summer the +lower edges of the skin are rolled up, and the wind blowing through, +it is a cool, shady retreat. In winter everything is closed, and I +know of no more comfortable place than a well-made Indian lodge. +The army tent known as the Sibley is modelled after it, and is the +best winter shelter for troops in the field that can be made. +Many times while the military post where I had been ordered was +in process of building, I have chosen the Sibley tent in preference +to any other domicile. + +When a village is to be moved, it is an interesting sight. The young +and unfledged boys drive up the herd of ponies, and then the squaws +catch them. The women, too, take down the lodges, and, tying the +poles in two bundles, fasten them on each side of an animal, the +long ends dragging on the ground. Just behind the pony or mule, +as the case may be, a basket is placed and held there by buffalo-hide +thongs, and into these novel carriages the little children are put, +besides such traps as are not easily packed on the animal's back. + +The women do all the work both in camp and when moving. They are +doomed to a hopeless bondage of slavery, the fate of their sex in +every savage race; but they accept their condition stoically, and +there is as much affection among them for their husbands and children +as I have ever witnessed among the white race. Here are two instances +of their devotion, both of which came under my personal observation, +and I could give hundreds of others. + +Late in the fall of 1858, I was one of a party on the trail of a band +of Indians who had been committing some horrible murders in a +mining-camp in the northern portion of Washington Territory. On the +fourth day out, just about dusk, we struck their moccasin tracks, +which we followed all night, and surprised their camp in the gray +light of the early morning. In less than ten minutes the fight +was over, and besides the killed we captured six prisoners. Then as +the rising sun commenced to gild the peaks of the lofty range on +the west, having granted our captives half an hour to take leave +of their families, the ankles of each were bound; they were made +to kneel on the prairie, a squad of soldiers, with loaded rifles, +were drawn up eight paces in front of them, and at the instant +the signal--a white handkerchief--was dropped the savages tumbled +over on the sod a heap of corpses. The parting between the condemned +men and their young wives and children, I shall never forget. +It was the most perfect exhibition of marital and filial love that +I have ever witnessed. Such harsh measures may seem cruel and +heartless in the light of to-day, but there was none other than +martial law then in the wilderness of the Northern Pacific coast, +and the execution was a stern necessity. + +The other instance was ten years later. During the Indian campaign +in the winter of 1868-69 I was riding with a party of officers and +enlisted men, south of the Arkansas, about fourty miles from Fort Dodge. +We were watching some cavalrymen unearth three or four dead warriors +who had been killed by two scouts in a fierce unequal fight a few +weeks before, and as we rode into a small ravine among the sand hills, +we suddenly came upon a rudely constructed Cheyenne lodge. Entering, +we discovered on a rough platform, fashioned of green poles, a dead +warrior in full war-dress; his shield of buffalo-hide, pipe ornamented +with eagles' feathers, and medicine bag, were lying on the ground +beside him. At his head, on her knees, with hands clasped in the +attitude of prayer, was a squaw frozen to death. Which had first +succumbed, the wounded chief, or the devoted wife in the awful cold +of that winter prairie, will never be known, but it proved her love +for the man who had perhaps beaten her a hundred times. Such tender +and sympathetic affection is characteristic of the sex everywhere, +no less with the poor savage than in the dominant white race. + +To return to our description of the average Indian village: Each lodge +at the grand encampment of Big Timbers in the era of traffic with +the nomads of the great plains, owned its separate herd of ponies +and mules. In the exodus to some other favoured spot, two dozen or +more of these individual herds travelled close to each other but +never mixed, each drove devotedly following its bell-mare, as in +a pack-train. This useful animal is generally the most worthless +and wicked beast in the entire outfit. + +The animals with the lodge-pole carriages go as they please, +no special care being taken to guide them, but they too instinctively +keep within sound of the leader. I will again quote Garrard for +an accurate description of the moving camp when he was with the +Cheyennes in 1847:-- + + The young squaws take much care of their dress and horse + equipments; they dash furiously past on wild steeds, + astrideof the high-pommelled saddles. A fancifully + coloured cover, worked with beads or porcupine quills, + making a flashy, striking appearance, extended from withers + to rump of the horse, while the riders evinced an admirable + daring, worthy of Amazons. Their dresses were made of + buckskin, high at the neck, with short sleeves, or rather + none at all, fitting loosely, and reaching obliquely to + theknee, giving a Diana look to the costume; the edges + scalloped, worked with beads, and fringed. From the knee + downward the limb was encased in a tightly fitting legging, + terminating in a neat moccasin--both handsomely wrought + with beads. On the arms were bracelets of brass, which + glittered and reflected in the radiant morning sun, adding + much to their attractions. In their pierced ears, shells + from the Pacific shore were pendent; and to complete the + picture of savage taste and profusion, their fine + complexions were eclipsed by a coat of flaming vermilion. + + Many of the largest dogs were packed with a small quantity + of meat, or something not easily injured. They looked + queerly, trotting industriously under their burdens; and, + judging from a small stock of canine physiological + information, not a little of the wolf was in their + composition. + + We crossed the river on our way to the new camp. The alarm + manifested by the children in the lodge-pole drays, as they + dipped in the water, was amusing. The little fellows, + holding their breath, not daring to cry, looked imploringly + at their inexorable mothers, and were encouraged by words + of approbation from their stern fathers. + + After a ride of two hours we stopped, and the chiefs, + fastening their horses, collected in circles to smoke their + pipe and talk, letting their squaws unpack the animals, + pitch the lodges, build the fires, and arrange the robes. + When all was ready, these lords of creation dispersed to + their several homes, to wait until their patient and + enduring spouses prepared some food. I was provoked, nay, + angry, to see the lazy, overgrown men do nothing to help + their wives; and when the young women pulled off their + bracelets and finery to chop wood, the cup of my wrath was + full to overflowing, and, in a fit of honest indignation, + I pronounced them ungallant and savage in the true sense + of the word. + +The treatment of Indian children, particularly boys, is something +startling to the gentle sentiments of refined white mothers. +The girls receive hardly any attention from their fathers. Implicit +obedience is the watchword of the lodge with them, and they are +constantly taught to appreciate their inferiority of sex. The daughter +is a mere slave; unnoticed and neglected--a mere hewer of wood and +drawer of water. With a son, it is entirely different; the father +from his birth dotes on him and manifests his affection in the most +demonstrative manner. + +Garrard tells of two instances that came under his observation while +staying at the chief's lodge, and at John Smith's, in the Cheyenne +village, of the discipline to which the boys are subjected. + + In Vi-po-nah's lodge was his grandson, a boy six or seven + months old. Every morning his mother washed him in cold + water, and set him out in the air to make him hardy; + he would come in, perfectly nude, from his airing, about + half-frozen. How he would laugh and brighten up, as he felt + the warmth of the fire! + + Smith's son Jack took a crying fit one cold night, much to + the annoyance of four or five chiefs, who had come to our + lodge to talk and smoke. In vain did the mother shake and + scold him with the severest Cheyenne words, until Smith, + provoked beyond endurance, took the squalling youngster in + his hands; he shu-ed and shouted and swore, but Jack had + gone too far to be easily pacified. He then sent for a + bucket of water from the river and poured cupful after + cupful on Jack, who stamped and screamed and bit in his + tiny rage. Notwithstanding, the icy stream slowly descended + until the bucket was emptied, another was sent for, and + again and again the cup was replenished and emptied on the + blubbering youth. At last, exhausted with exertion and + completely cooled down, he received the remaining water + in silence, and, with a few words of admonition, was + delivered over to his mother, in whose arms he stifled his + sobs, until his heartbreaking grief and cares were drowned + in sleep. What a devilish mixture Indian and American + blood is! + +The Indians never chastise a boy, as they think his spirit would be +broken and cowed down; instead of a warrior he would be a squaw +--a harsh epithet indicative of cowardice--and they resort to any method +but infliction of blows to subdue a refractory scion. + +Before most of the lodges is a tripod of three sticks, about seven +feet in length and an inch in diameter, fastened at the top, and the +lower ends brought out, so that it stands alone. On this is hung +the shield and a small square bag of parfleche, containing pipes, +with an accompanying pendent roll of stems, carefully wrapped in +blue or red cloth, and decorated with beads and porcupine quills. +This collection is held in great veneration, for the pipe is their +only religion. Through its agency they invoke the Great Spirit; +through it they render homage to the winds, to the earth, and to +the sky. + +Every one has his peculiar notion on this subject; and, in passing +the pipe, one must have it presented stem downward, another the +reverse; some with the bowl resting on the ground; and as this is +a matter of great solemnity, their several fancies are respected. +Sometimes I required them to hand it to me, when smoking, in imitation +of their custom; on this, a faint smile, half mingled with respect +and pity for my folly in tampering with their sacred ceremony, would +appear on their faces, and with a slow negative shake of the head, +they would ejaculate, "I-sto-met-mah-son-ne-wah-hein"--"Pshaw! +that's foolish; don't do so." + +Religion the Cheyennes have none, if, indeed, we except the respect +paid to the pipe; nor do we see any sign or vestige of spiritual +worship; except one remarkable thing--in offering the pipe, before +every fresh filling, to the sky, the earth, and the winds, the motion +made in so doing describes the form of a cross; and, in blowing the +first four whiffs, the smoke is invariably sent in the same four +directions. It is undoubtedly void of meaning in reference to +Christian worship, yet it is a superstition, founded on ancient +tradition. This tribe once lived near the head waters of the +Mississippi; and, as the early Jesuit missionaries were energetic +zealots, in the diffusion of their religious sentiments, probably to +make their faith more acceptable to the Indians, the Roman Catholic +rites were blended with the homage shown to the pipe, which custom +of offering, in the form of a cross, is still retained by them; +but as every custom is handed down by tradition merely, the true +source has been forgotten. + +In every tribe in whose country I have been stationed, which comprises +nearly all the continent excepting the extreme southwestern portion, +his pipe is the Indian's constant companion through life. It is his +messenger of peace; he pledges his friends through its stem and its +bowl, and when he is dead, it has a place in his solitary grave, +with his war-club and arrows--companions on his journey to his +long-fancied beautiful hunting-grounds. The pipe of peace is a sacred +thing; so held by all Indian nations, and kept in possession of chiefs, +to be smoked only at times of peacemaking. When the terms of treaty +have been agreed upon, this sacred emblem, the stem of which is +ornamented with eagle's quills, is brought forward, and the solemn +pledge to keep the peace is passed through the sacred stem by each +chief and warrior drawing the smoke once through it. After the +ceremony is over, the warriors of the two tribes unite in the dance, +with the pipe of peace held in the left hand of the chief and in his +other a rattle. + +Thousands of years ago, the primitive savage of the American continent +carried masses of pipe-stone from the sacred quarry in Minnesota +across the vast wilderness of plains, to trade with the people of +the far Southwest, over the same route that long afterward became +the Santa Fe Trail; therefore, it will be consistent with the character +of this work to relate the history of the quarry from which all the +tribes procured their material for fashioning their pipes, and the +curious legends connected with it. I have met with the red sandstone +pipes on the remotest portions of the Pacific coast, and east, west, +north and south, in every tribe that it has been my fortune to know. + +The word "Dakotah" means allied or confederated, and is the family +name now comprising some thirty bands, numbering about thirty thousand +Indians. They are generally designated Sioux, but that title is +seldom willingly acknowledged by them. It was first given to them +by the French, though its original interpretation is by no means clear. +The accepted theory, because it is the most plausible, is that it is +a corruption or rather an abbreviation of "Nadouessioux," a Chippewa +word for enemies. + +Many of the Sioux are semi-civilized; some are "blanket-Indians," +so called, but there are no longer any murderous or predatory bands, +and all save a few stragglers are on the reservations. From 1812 to +1876, more than half a century, they were the scourge of the West and +the Northwest, but another outbreak is highly improbable. They once +occupied the vast region included between the Mississippi and the +Rocky Mountains, and were always migratory in their methods of living. +Over fifty years ago, when the whites first became acquainted with +them, they were divided into nearly fifty bands of families, each with +its separate chief, but all acknowledging a superior chief to whom +they were subordinate. They were at that time the happiest and most +wealthy tribe on the continent, regarded from an Indian standpoint; +but then the great plains were stocked with buffalo and wild horses, +and that fact alone warrants the assertion of contentment and riches. +No finer-looking tribe existed; they could then muster more than +ten thousand warriors, every one of whom would measure six feet, and +all their movements were graceful and elastic. + +According to their legends, they came from the Pacific and encountered +the Algonquins about the head waters of the Mississippi, where they +were held in check, a portion of them, however, pushing on through +their enemies and securing a foothold on the shores of Lake Michigan. +This bold band was called by the Chippewas Winnebagook (men-from-the- +salt-water). In their original habitat on the great northern plains +was located the celebrated "red pipe-stone quarry," a relatively +limited area, owned by all tribes, but occupied permanently by none; +a purely neutral ground--so designated by the Great Spirit--where no +war could possibly occur, and where mortal enemies might meet to +procure the material for their pipes, but the hatchet was invariably +buried during that time on the consecrated spot. + +The quarry has long since passed out of the control and jurisdiction +of the Indians and is not included in any of their reservations, +though near the Sisseton agency. It is located on the summit of +the high divide between the Missouri and St. Peter's rivers in +Minnesota, at a point not far from where the ninety-seventh meridian +of longitude (from Greenwich) intersects the forty-fifth parallel +of latitude. The divide was named by the French Coteau des Prairies, +and the quarry is near its southern extremity. Not a tree or bush +could be seen from the majestic mound when I last was there, some +twenty years ago--nothing but the apparently interminable plains, +until they were lost in the deep blue of the horizon. + +The luxury of smoking appears to have been known to all the tribes +on the continent in their primitive state, and they indulge in the +habit to excess; any one familiar with their life can assert that +the American savage smokes half of his time. Where so much attention +is given to a mere pleasure, it naturally follows that he would devote +his leisure and ingenuity to the construction of his pipe. The bowls +of these were, from time immemorial, made of the peculiar red stone +from the famous quarry referred to, which, until only a little over +fifty years ago, was never visited by a white man, its sanctity +forbidding any such sacrilege. + +That the spot should have been visited for untold centuries by all +the Indian nations, who hid their weapons as they approached it, +under fear of the vengeance of the Great Spirit, will not seem strange +when the religion of the race is understood. One of the principal +features of the quarry is a perpendicular wall of granite about +thirty feet high, facing the west, and nearly two miles long. At the +base of the wall there is a level prairie, running parallel to it, +half a mile wide. Under this strip of land, after digging through +several slaty layers of rock, the red sandstone is found. Old graves, +fortifications, and excavations abound, all confirmatory of the +traditions clustering around the weird place. + +Within a few rods of the base of the wall is a group of immense gneiss +boulders, five in number, weighing probably many hundred tons each, +and under these are two holes in which two imaginary old women reside +--the guardian spirits of the quarry--who were always consulted before +any pipe-stone could be dug up. The veneration for this group of +boulders was something wonderful; not a spear of grass was broken or +bent by his feet within sixty or seventy paces from them, where the +trembling Indian halted, and throwing gifts to them in humble +supplication, solicited permission to dig and take away the red stone +for his pipes. + +Near this spot, too, on a high mound, was the "Thunder's nest," where +a very small bird sat upon her eggs during fair weather. When the +skies were rent with thunder at the approach of a storm, she was +hatching her brood, which caused the terrible commotion in the heavens. +The bird was eternal. The "medicine men" claimed that they had often +seen her, and she was about as large as a little finger. Her mate +was a serpent whose fiery tongue destroyed the young ones as soon as +they were born, and the awful noise accompanying the act darted +through the clouds. + +On the wall of rocks at the quarry are thousands of inscriptions and +paintings, the totems and arms of various tribes who have visited +there; but no idea can be formed of their antiquity. + +Of the various traditions of the many tribes, I here present a few. +The Great Spirit at a remote period called all the Indian nations +together at this place, and, standing on the brink of the precipice +of red-stone rock, broke from its walls a piece and fashioned a pipe +by simply turning it in his hands. He then smoked over them to the +north, the south, the east, and the west, and told them the stone +was red, that it was their flesh, that they must use it for their +pipes of peace, that it belonged to all alike, and that the war-club +and scalping-knife must never be raised on its ground. At the last +whiff of his pipe his head went into a great cloud, and the whole +surface of the ledge for miles was melted and glazed; two great ovens +were opened beneath, and two women--the guardian spirits of the place-- +entered them in a blaze of fire, and they are heard there yet +answering to the conjurations of the medicine men, who consult them +when they visit the sacred place. + +The legend of the Knis-te-neu's tribe (Crees), a very small band in +the British possessions, in relation to the quarry is this: In the +time of a great freshet that occurred years ago and destroyed all the +nations of the earth, every tribe of Indians assembled on the top +of the Coteau des Prairies to get out of the way of the rushing and +seething waters. When they had arrived there from all parts of the +world, the water continued to rise until it covered them completely, +forming one solid mass of drowned Indians, and their flesh was +converted by the Great Spirit into red pipe-stone; therefore, it was +always considered neutral ground, belonging to all tribes alike, and +all were to make their pipes out of it and smoke together. While they +were drowning together, a young woman, Kwaptan, a virgin, caught hold +of the foot of a very large bird that was flying over at the time, +and was carried to the top of a hill that was not far away and above +the water. There she had twins, their father being the war-eagle +that had carried her off, and her children have since peopled the +earth. The pipe-stone, which is the flesh of their ancestors, +is smoked by them as the symbol of peace, and the eagle quills +decorate the heads of their warriors. + +Severed about seven or eight feet from the main wall of the quarry +by some convulsion of nature ages ago, there is an immense column +just equal in height to the wall, seven feet in diameter and +beautifully polished on its top and sides. It is called The Medicine, +or Leaping Rock, and considerable nerve is required to jump on it from +the main ledge and back again. Many an Indian's heart, in the past, +has sighed for the honour of the feat without daring to attempt it. +A few, according to the records of the tribes, have tried it with +success, and left their arrows standing up in its crevice; others +have made the leap and reached its slippery surface only to slide off, +and suffer instant death on the craggy rocks in the awful chasm below. +Every young man of the many tribes was ambitious to perform the feat, +and those who had successfully accomplished it were permitted to +boast of it all their lives. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. +TRAPPERS. + + + +The initial opening of the trade with New Mexico from the Missouri +River, as has been related, was not direct to Santa Fe. The limited +number of pack-trains at first passed to the north of the Raton Range, +and travelled to the Spanish settlements in the valley of Taos. + +On this original Trail, where now is situated the beautiful city +of Pueblo, the second place of importance in Colorado, there was a +little Indian trading-post called "the Pueblo," from which the present +thriving place derives its name. The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe +Railroad practically follows the same route that the traders did to +reach Pueblo, as it also does that which the freight caravans later +followed from the Missouri River direct to Santa Fe. + +The old Pueblo fort, as nearly as can be determined now, was built +as early as 1840, or not later than 1842, and, as one authority +asserts, by George Simpson and his associates, Barclay and Doyle. +Beckwourth claims to have been the original projector of the fort, +and to have given the general plan and its name, in which I am +inclined to believe that he is correct; perhaps Barclay, Doyle, and +Simpson were connected with him, as he states that there were other +trappers, though he mentions no names. It was a square fort of adobe, +with circular bastions at the corners, no part of the walls being +more than eight feet high. Around the inside of the plaza, or corral, +were half a dozen small rooms inhabited by as many Indian traders and +mountain-men. + +One of the earlier Indian agents, Mr. Fitzpatrick, in writing from +Bent's Fort in 1847, thus describes the old Pueblo:-- + + About seventy-five miles above this place, and immediately + on the Arkansas River, there is a small settlement, chiefly + composed of old trappers and hunters; the male part of it + are mostly Americans (Missourians), French Canadians, and + Mexicans. It numbers about one hundred and fifty, and of + this number about sixty men have wives, and some have two. + These wives are of various Indian tribes, as follows; viz. + Blackfeet, Assiniboines, Sioux, Arapahoes, Cheyennes, + Snakes, and Comanches. The American women are Mormons, + a party of Mormons having wintered there, and then departed + for California. + +The old trappers and hunters of the Pueblo fort lived entirely upon +game, and a greater part of the year without bread. As soon as their +supply of meat was exhausted, they started to the mountains with two +or three pack-animals, and brought back in two or three days loads +of venison and buffalo. + +The Arkansas at the Pueblo is a clear, rapid river about a hundred +yards wide. The bottom, which is enclosed on each side by high bluffs, +is about a quarter of a mile across. In the early days of which I +write, the margin of the stream was heavily timbered with cottonwood, +and the tourist to-day may see the remnant of the primitive great +woods, in the huge isolated trees scattered around the bottom in the +vicinity of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad station of +the charming mountain city. + +On each side vast rolling prairies stretch away for hundreds of miles, +gradually ascending on the side towards the mountains, where the +highlands are sparsely covered with pinyon and cedar. The lofty banks +through which the Arkansas occasionally passes are of shale and +sandstone, rising precipitously from the water. Ascending the river +the country is wild and broken, until it enters the mountain region, +where the scenery is incomparably grand and imposing. The surrounding +prairies are naturally arid and sterile, producing but little +vegetation, and the primitive grass, though of good quality, is thin +and scarce. Now, however, under a competent system of irrigation, +the whole aspect of the landscape is changed from what it was thirty +years ago, and it has all the luxuriance of a garden. + +The whole country, it is claimed, was once possessed by the Shos-shones, +or Snake Indians, of whom the Comanches of the Southern plains are +a branch; and, although many hundred miles divide their hunting-grounds, +they were once, if not the same people, tribes or bands of that great +and powerful nation. They retain a language in common, and there is +also a striking analogy in many of their religious rites and ceremonies, +in their folk-lore, and in some of their everyday customs. These +facts prove, at least, that there was at one time a very close +alliance which bound the two tribes together. Half a century ago they +were, in point of numbers, the two most powerful nations in all the +numerous aggregations of Indians in the West; the Comanches ruling +almost supreme on the Eastern plains, while the Shos-shones were the +dominant tribe in the country beyond the Rocky Mountains, and in the +mountains themselves. Once, many years ago, before the problem of the +relative strength of the various tribes was as well solved as now, +the Shos-shones were supposed to be the most powerful, and numerically +the most populous, tribe of Indians on the North American continent. + +In the immediate vicinity of the old Pueblo fort at the time of its +greatest business prosperity, game was scarce; the buffalo had for +some years deserted the neighbouring prairies, but they were always +to be found in the mountain-valleys, particularly in one known as +"Bayou Salado," which forty-five years ago abounded in elk, bear, +deer, and antelope. + +The fort was situated a few hundred yards above the mouth of the +"Fontaine qui Bouille" River,[47] so called from two springs of +mineral water near its head, under Pike's Peak, about sixty miles +above its mouth. + +As is the case with all the savage races of the world, the American +Indians possess hereditary legends, accounting for all the phenomena +of nature, or any occurrence which is beyond their comprehension. +The Shos-shones had the following story to account for the presence of +these wonderful springs in the midst of their favourite hunting-ground. +The two fountains, one pouring forth the sweetest water imaginable, +the other a stream as bitter as gall, are intimately connected with +the cause of the separation of the two tribes. Their legend thus runs: +Many hundreds of winters ago, when the cottonwoods on the big river +were no higher than arrows, and the prairies were crowded with game, +the red men who hunted the deer in the forests and the buffalo on the +plains all spoke the same language, and the pipe of peace breathed its +soothing cloud whenever two parties of hunters met on the boundless +prairie. + +It happened one day that two hunters of different nations met on the +bank of a small rivulet, to which both had resorted to quench their +thirst. A small stream of water, rising from a spring on a rock +within a few feet of the bank, trickled over it and fell splashing +into the river. One hunter sought the spring itself; the other, +tired by his exertions in the chase, threw himself at once to the +ground, and plunged his face into the running stream. + +The latter had been unsuccessful in the hunt, and perhaps his bad +fortune, and the sight of the fat deer which the other threw from his +back before he drank at the crystal spring, caused a feeling of +jealousy and ill-humour to take possession of his mind. The other, +on the contrary, before he satisfied his thirst, raised in the hollow +of his hand a portion of the water, and, lifting it toward the sun, +reversed his hand, and allowed it to fall upon the ground, as a +libation to the Great Spirit, who had vouch-safed him a successful +hunt and the blessing of the refreshing water with which he was about +to quench his thirst. + +This reminder that he had neglected the usual offering only increased +the feeling of envy and annoyance which filled the unsuccessful +hunter's heart. The Evil Spirit at that moment entering his body, +his temper fairly flew away, and he sought some pretence to provoke +a quarrel with the other Indian. + +"Why does a stranger," he asked, rising from the stream, "drink at +the spring-head, when one to whom the fountain belongs contents +himself with the water that runs from it?" + +"The Great Spirit places the cool water at the spring," answered the +other hunter, "that his children may drink it pure and undefiled. +The running water is for the beasts which scour the plains. Ausaqua +is a chief of the Shos-shones; he drinks at the head water." + +"The Shos-shones is but a tribe of the Comanches," returned the other: +"Wacomish leads the whole nation. Why does a Shos-shone dare to +drink above him?" + +"When the Manitou made his children, whether Shos-shone or Comanche, +Arapaho, Cheyenne, or Pawnee, he gave them buffalo to eat, and the +pure water of the fountain to quench their thirst. He said not to +one, 'Drink here,' and to another, 'Drink there'; but gave the crystal +spring to all, that all might drink." + +Wacomish almost burst with rage as the other spoke; but his coward +heart prevented him from provoking an encounter with the calm Shos-shone. +The latter, made thirsty by the words he had spoken--for the Indian is +ever sparing of his tongue--again stooped down to the spring to drink, +when the subtle warrior of the Comanches suddenly threw himself upon +the kneeling hunter and, forcing his head into the bubbling water, +held him down with all his strength until his victim no longer +struggled; his stiffened limbs relaxed, and he fell forward over +the spring, drowned. + +Mechanically the Comanche dragged the body a few paces from the water, +and, as soon as the head of the dead Indian was withdrawn, the spring +was suddenly and strangely disturbed. Bubbles sprang up from the +bottom, and, rising to the surface, escaped in hissing gas. A thin +vapour arose, and, gradually dissolving, displayed to the eyes of the +trembling murderer the figure of an aged Indian, whose long, snowy +hair and venerable beard, blown aside from his breast, discovered the +well-known totem of the great Wankanaga, the father of the Comanche +and Shos-shone nation. + +Stretching out a war-club toward the Comanche, the figure thus +addressed him:-- + +"Accursed murderer! While the blood of the brave Shos-shone cries to +the Great Spirit for vengeance, may the water of thy tribe be rank +and bitter in their throats!" Thus saying, and swinging his ponderous +war-club round his head, he dashed out the brains of the Comanche, +who fell headlong into the spring, which from that day to this remains +rank and nauseous, so that not even when half dead with thirst, can +one drink from it. + +The good Wankanaga, however, to perpetuate the memory of the Shos-shone +warrior, who was renowned in his tribe for valour and nobleness of +heart, struck with the same avenging club a hard, flat rock which +overhung the rivulet, and forthwith a round clear basin opened, which +instantly filled with bubbling, sparkling water, sweet and cool. + +From that day the two mighty tribes of the Shos-shones and Comanches +have remained severed and apart, although a long and bloody war +followed the treacherous murder. + +The Indians regarded these wonderful springs with awe. The Arapahoes, +especially, attributed to the Spirit of the springs the power of +ordaining the success or failure of their war expeditions. As their +warriors passed by the mysterious pools when hunting their hereditary +enemies, the Utes, they never failed to bestow their votive offerings +upon the spring, in order to propitiate the Manitou of the strange +fountain, and insure a fortunate issue to their path of war. As late +as twenty-five years ago, the visitor to the place could always find +the basin of the spring filled with beads and wampum, pieces of red +cloth and knives, while the surrounding trees were hung with strips +of deerskin, cloth, and moccasins. Signs were frequently observed +in the vicinity of the waters unmistakably indicating that a war-dance +had been executed there by the Arapahoes on their way to the Valley +of Salt, occupied by the powerful Utes. + +Never was there such a paradise for hunters as this lone and solitary +spot in the days when the region was known only to them and the +trappers of the great fur companies. The shelving prairie, at the +bottom of which the springs are situated, is entirely surrounded by +rugged mountains and contained two or three acres of excellent grass, +affording a safe pasture for their animals, which hardly cared to +wander from such feeding and the salt they loved to lick. + +The trappers of the Rocky Mountains belonged to a genus that has +disappeared. Forty years ago there was not a hole or corner in the +vast wilderness of the far West that had not been explored by these +hardy men. From the Mississippi to the mouth of the Colorado of the +West, from the frozen regions of the north to the Gila in Mexico, +the beaver hunter has set his traps in every creek and stream. +The mountains and waters, in many instances, still retain the names +assigned them by those rude hunters, who were veritable pioneers +paving the way for the settlement of the stern country. + +A trapper's camp in the old days was quite a picture, as were all its +surroundings. He did not always take the trouble to build a shelter, +unless in the winter. A couple of deerskins stretched over a willow +frame was considered sufficient to protect him from the storm. +Sometimes he contented himself with a mere "breakwind," the rocky +wall of a canyon, or large ravine. Near at hand he set up two poles, +in the crotch of which another was laid, where he kept, out of reach +of the hungry wolf and coyote, his meat, consisting of every variety +afforded by the region in which he had pitched his camp. Under cover +of the skins of the animals he had killed hung his old-fashioned +powder-horn and bullet-pouch, while his trusty rifle, carefully +defended from the damp, was always within reach of his hand. Round +his blazing fire at night his companions, if he had any, were other +trappers on the same stream; and, while engaged in cleaning their +arms, making and mending moccasins, or running bullets, they told +long yarns, until the lateness of the hour warned them to crawl under +their blankets. + +Not far from the camp, his animals, well hobbled, fed in sight; +for nothing did a hunter dread more than a visit from horse-stealing +Indians, and to be afoot was the acme of misery. + +Some hunters who had married squaws carried about with them regular +buffalo-skin lodges, which their wives took care of, according to +Indian etiquette. + +The old-time trappers more nearly approximated the primitive savage, +perhaps, than any other class of civilized men. Their lives being +spent in the remote wilderness of the mountains, frequently with no +other companion than Nature herself, their habits and character often +assumed a most singular cast of simplicity, mingled with ferocity, +that appeared to take its colouring from the scenes and objects which +surrounded them. Having no wants save those of nature, their sole +concern was to provide sufficient food to support life, and the +necessary clothing to protect them from the sometimes rigorous climate. + +The costume of the average trapper was a hunting-shirt of dressed +buckskin, with long, fringed trousers of the same material, decorated +with porcupine quills. A flexible hat and moccasins covered his +extremities, and over his left shoulder and under his right arm hung +his powder-horn and bullet-pouch, in which he also carried flint, +steel, and other odds and ends. Round his waist he wore a belt, +in which was stuck a large knife in a sheath of buffalo-hide, made +fast to the belt by a chain or guard of steel. It also supported +a little buckskin case, which contained a whetstone, a very necessary +article; for in taking off the hides of the beaver a sharp knife was +required. His pipe-holder hung around his neck, and was generally +a gage d'amour, a triumph of squaw workmanship, wrought with beads +and porcupine quills, often made in the shape of a heart. + +Necessarily keen observers of nature, they rivalled the beasts of +prey in discovering the haunts and habits of game, and in their skill +and cunning in capturing it outwitted the Indian himself. Constantly +exposed to perils of all kinds, they became callous to any feeling +of danger, and were firm friends or bitter enemies. It was a "word +and a blow," the blow often coming first. Strong, active, hardy as +bears, expert in the use of their weapons, they were just what an +uncivilized white man might be supposed to be under conditions where +he must depend upon his instincts for the support of life. + +Having determined upon the locality of his trapping-ground, the hunter +started off, sometimes alone, sometimes three or four of them in +company, as soon as the breaking of the ice in the streams would +permit, if he was to go very far north. Arriving on the spot he has +selected for his permanent camp, the first thing to be done, after +he had settled himself, was to follow the windings of the creeks and +rivers, keeping a sharp lookout for "signs." If he saw a prostrate +cottonwood tree, he carefully examined it to learn whether it was +the work of beaver, and if so whether thrown for the purpose of food, +or to dam the stream. The track of the animal on the mud or sand +under the banks was also examined; if the sign was fresh, he set his +trap in the run of the animal, hiding it under water, and attaching +it by a stout chain to a picket driven in the bank, or to a bush or +tree. A float-stick was made fast to the trap by a cord a few feet +long, which, if the animal carried away the trap, would float on +the water and point out its position. The trap was baited with +"medicine," an oily substance obtained from the beaver. A stick was +dipped in this and planted over the trap, and the beaver, attracted +by the smell, put his leg into the trap and was caught. + +When a beaver lodge was discovered, the trap was set at the edge of +the dam, at a point where the animal passed from deep to shoal water, +and always under the surface. Early in the morning, the hunter +mounted his mule and examined all his traps. + +The beaver is exceedingly wily, and if by scent or sound or sight he +had any intimation of the presence of a trapper, he put at defiance +all efforts to capture him, consequently it was necessary to practise +great caution when in the neighbourhood of one of their lodges. +The trapper then avoided riding for fear the sound of his horse's +feet might strike dismay among the furry inhabitants under the water, +and, instead of walking on the ground, he waded in the stream, lest +he should leave a scent behind by which he might be discovered. + +In the days of the great fur companies, trappers were of two kinds-- +the hired hand and the free trapper. The former was hired by the +company, which supplied him with everything necessary, and paid him +a certain price for his furs and peltries. The other hunted on his +own hook, owned his animals and traps, went where he pleased, and +sold to whom he chose. + +During the hunting season, regardless of the Indians, the fearless +trapper wandered far and near in search of signs. His nerves were +in a state of tension, his mind always clear, and his head cool. +His trained eye scrutinized every part of the country, and in an +instant he could detect anything that was strange. A turned leaf, +a blade of grass pressed down, the uneasiness of wild animals, +the actions of the birds, were all to him paragraphs written in +Nature's legible hand. + +All the wits of the wily savage were called into play to gain an +advantage over the plucky white man; but with the resources natural +to a civilized mind, the hunter seldom failed, under equal chance, +to circumvent the cunning of the red man. Sometimes, following his +trail for weeks, the Indian watched him set his traps on some timbered +stream, and crawling up the bed of it, so that he left no tracks, +he lay in the bushes until his victim came to examine his traps. +Then, when he approached within a few feet of the ambush, whiz! flew +the home-drawn arrow, which never failed at such close quarters to +bring the unsuspecting hunter to the ground. But for one white scalp +that dangled in the smoke of an Indian's lodge, a dozen black ones, +at the end of the season, ornamented the camp-fires of the rendezvous +where the furs were sold. + +In the camp, if he was a very successful hunter, all the appliances +for preparing the skins for market were at hand; if he had a squaw +for a wife, she did all the hard work, as usual. Close to the +entrance of their skin lodge was the "graining-block," a log of wood +with the bark stripped off and perfectly smooth, set obliquely in +the ground, on which the hair was removed from the deerskins which +furnished moccasins and dresses for both herself and her husband. +Then there were stretching frames on which the skins were placed to +undergo the process of "dubbing"; that is, the removal of all flesh +and fatty particles adhering to the skin. The "dubber" was made of +the stock of an elk's horn, with a piece of iron or steel inserted +in the end, forming a sharp knife. The last process the deerskin +underwent before it was soft and pliable enough for making into +garments, was the "smoking." This was effected by digging a round +hole in the ground, and lighting in it an armful of rotten wood or +punk; then sticks were planted around the hole, and their tops brought +together and tied. The skins were placed on this frame, and all +openings by which the smoke might escape being carefully stopped, +in ten or twelve hours they were thoroughly cured and ready for +immediate use. + +The beaver was the main object of the hunter's quest; its skins were +once worth from six to eight dollars a pound; then they fell to only +one dollar, which hardly paid the expenses of traps, animals, and +equipment for the hunt, and was certainly no adequate remuneration +for the hardships, toil, and danger undergone by the trappers. + +The beaver was once found in every part of North America, from Canada +to the Gulf of Mexico, but has so retired from the encroachments of +civilized man, that it is only to be met with occasionally on some +tributary to the remote mountain streams. + +The old trappers always aimed to set their traps so that the beaver +would drown when taken. This was accomplished by sinking the trap +several inches under water, and driving a stake through a ring on the +end of the chain into the bottom of the creek. When the beaver finds +himself caught, he pitches and plunges about until his strength is +exhausted, when he sinks down and is drowned, but if he succeeds in +getting to the shore, he always extricates himself by gnawing off +the leg that is in the jaws of the trap. + +The captured animals were skinned, and the tails, which are a great +dainty, carefully packed into camp. The skin was then stretched over +a hoop or framework of willow twigs and allowed to dry, the flesh and +fatty substance adhering being first carefully scraped off. When dry, +it was folded into a square sheet, the fur turned inwards, and the +bundle, containing twenty skins, tightly pressed and tied, was ready +for transportation. The beaver after the hide is taken off weighs +about twelve pounds, and its flesh, although a little musky, is very +fine. Its tail which is flat and oval in shape, is covered with +scales about the size of those of a salmon. It was a great delicacy +in the estimation of the old trapper; he separated it from the body, +thrust a stick in one end of it, and held it before the fire with the +scales on. In a few moments large blisters rose on the surface, +which were very easily removed. The tail was then perfectly white, +and delicious. Next to the tail the liver was another favourite of +the trapper, and when properly cooked it constituted a delightful repast. + +After the season was over, or the hunter had loaded all his pack-animals, +he proceeded to the "rendezvous," where the buyers were to congregate +for the purchase of the fur, the locality of which had been agreed +upon when the hunters started out on their expedition. One of these +was at Bent's old fort and one at Pueblo; another at "Brown's Hole" +on Green River, and there were many more on the great streams and in +the mountains. There the agents of the fur companies and traders +waited for the arrival of the trappers, with such an assortment of +goods as the hardy men required, including, of course, an immense +supply of whiskey. The trappers dropped in day after day, in small +bands, packing their loads of beaver-skins, not infrequently to the +value of a thousand dollars each, the result of one hunt. + +The rendezvous was frequently a continuous scene of gambling, brawling, +and fighting, so long as the improvident trapper's money lasted. +Seated around the large camp-fires, cross-legged in Indian fashion, +with a blanket or buffalo-robe spread before them, groups were playing +cards--euchre, seven-up, and poker, the regular mountain games. +The usual stakes were beaver-skins, which were current as coin. +When their fur was all gone, their horses, mules, rifles, shirts, +hunting packs, and trousers were staked. Daring professional gamblers +made the rounds of the camps, challenging each other to play for the +trapper's highest stakes--his horse, or his squaw, if he had one--and +it is told of one great time that two old trappers played for one +another's scalps! "There goes hoss and beaver," was a common mountain +expression when any severe loss was sustained, and shortly "hoss and +beaver" found their way into the pockets of the unconscionable gamblers. + +Frequently a trapper would squander the entire product of his hunt, +amounting to hundreds of dollars, in a couple of hours. Then, +supplied with another outfit, he left the rendezvous for another +expedition, which had the same result time after time, although one +good hunt would have enabled him to return to the settlements and +live a life of comparative ease. + +It is told of one old Canadian trapper, who had received as much as +fifteen thousand dollars for beaver during his life in the mountains, +extending over twenty years, that each season he had resolved in his +mind to go back to Canada, and with this object in view always +converted his furs into cash; but a fortnight at the rendezvous +always "cleaned him out," and at the end of the twenty years he had +not even enough credit to get a plug of tobacco. + +Trading with the Indians in the primitive days of the border was just +what the word signifies in its radical interpretation--a system of +barter exclusively. No money was used in the transaction, as it was +long afterward before the savages began to learn something of the +value of currency from their connection with the sutler's and agency +stores established on reservations and at military posts on the plains +and in the mountains. In the early days, if an Indian by any chance +happened to get possession of a piece of money (only gold or silver +was recognized as a medium of exchange in the remote West), he would +immediately fashion it into some kind of an ornament with which to +adorn his person. Some tribes, however, did indulge in a sort of +currency, worthless except among themselves. This consisted of rare +shells, such as the Oligachuck, so called, of the Pacific coast +nations, used by them within my own recollection, as late as 1858. + +The poor Indian, as might have been expected, was generally +outrageously swindled; in fact, I am inclined to believe, always. +I never was present on an occasion when he was not. + +The savage's idea of values was very crude until the government, +in attempting to civilize and make a gentleman of him, has transformed +him into a bewildered child. Very soon after his connection with +the white trader, he learned that a gun was more valuable than a knife; +but of their relative cost to manufacture he had no idea. For these +reasons, obviously, he was always at the mercy of the unscrupulous +trader who came to his village, or met him at the rendezvous to barter +for his furs. I know that the price of every article he desired was +fixed by the trader, and never by the Indian, consequently he rarely +got the best of the bargain. + +Uncle John Smith, Kit Carson, L. B. Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, and +a host of other well-known Indian traders, long since dead, have +often told me that the first thing they did on entering a village +with a pack-load of trinkets to barter, in the earlier days before +the whites had encroached to any great extent, was to arrange a +schedule of prices. They would gather a large number of sticks, +each one representing an article they had brought. With these crude +symbols the Indian made himself familiar in a little while, and when +this preliminary arrangement had been completed, the trading began. +The Indian, for instance, would place a buffalo-robe on the ground; +then the trader commenced to lay down a number of the sticks, +representing what he was willing to give for the robe. The Indian +revolved the transaction in his mind until he thought he was getting +a fair equivalent according to his ideas, then the bargain was made. +It was claimed by these old traders, when they related this to me, +that the savage generally was not satisfied, always insisting upon +having more sticks placed on the pile. I suspect, however, that the +trader was ever prepared for this, and never gave more than he +originally intended. The price of that initial robe having been +determined on, it governed the price of all the rest for the whole +trade, regardless of size or fineness, for that day. What was traded +for was then placed by the Indian on one side of the lodge, and the +trader put what he was to give on the other. After prices had been +agreed upon, business went on very rapidly, and many thousand dollars' +worth of valuable furs were soon collected by the successful trader, +which he shipped to St. Louis and converted into gold. + +In a few years, relatively, the Indian began to appreciate the value +of our medium of exchange and the power it gave him to secure at the +stores in the widely scattered hamlets and at the military posts on +the plains, those things he coveted, at a fairer equivalent than in +the uncertain and complicated method of direct barter. It was not +very long after the advent of the overland coaches on the Santa Fe +Trail, that our currency, even the greenbacks, had assumed a value +to the savage, which he at least partially understood. Whenever the +Indians successfully raided the stages the mail sacks were no longer +torn to pieces or thrown aside as worthless, but every letter was +carefully scrutinized for possible bills. + +I well remember, when the small copper cent, with its spread eagle +upon it, was first issued, about the year 1857, how the soldiers of +a frontier garrison where I was stationed at the time palmed them off +upon the simple savages as two dollar and a half gold pieces, which +they resembled as long as they retained their brightness, and with +which the Indians were familiar, as many were received by the troops +from the paymaster every two months, the savages receiving them in +turn for horses and other things purchased of them by the soldiers. + +I have known of Indians who gave nuggets of gold for common calico +shirts costing two dollars in that region and seventy-five cents in +the States, while the lump of precious metal was worth, perhaps, +five or seven dollars. As late as twenty-eight years ago, I have +traded for beautifully smoke-tanned and porcupine-embroidered +buffalo-robes for my own use, giving in exchange a mere loaf of bread +or a cupful of brown sugar. + +Very early in the history of the United States, in 1786, the government, +under the authority of Congress, established a plan of trade with +the Indians. It comprised supplying all their physical wants without +profit; factories, or stations as they were called, were erected at +points that were then on the remote frontier; where factors, clerks, +and interpreters were stationed. The factors furnished goods of all +kinds to the Indians, and received from them in exchange furs and +peltries. There was an officer in charge of all these stations called +the superintendent of Indian trade, appointed by the President. +As far back as 1821, there were stations at Prairie du Chien, +Fort Edward, Fort Osage, with branches at Chicago, Green Bay in +Arkansas, on the Red River, and other places in the then far West. +These stations were movable, and changed from time to time to suit the +convenience of the Indians. In 1822 the whole system was abolished +by act of Congress, and its affairs wound up, the American Fur Company, +the Missouri Fur Company, and a host of others having by that time +become powerful. Like the great corporations of to-day, they +succeeded in supplanting the government establishments. Of course, +the Indians of the remote plains, which included all the vast region +west of the Missouri River, never had the benefits of the government +trading establishments, but were left to the tender mercies of the +old plainsmen and trappers. + +Until the railroad reached the mountains, when the march of a wonderful +immigration closely followed, usurping the lands claimed by the +savages, and the latter were driven, perforce, upon reservations, +the winter camps of the Kiowas, Arapahoes, and Cheyennes were strung +along the Old Trail for miles, wherever a belt of timber on the margin +of the Arkansas, or its tributaries, could be found large enough to +furnish fuel for domestic purposes and cottonwood bark for the vast +herds of ponies in the severe snow-storms. + +At these various points the Indians congregated to trade with the +whites. As stated, Bent's Fort, the Pueblo Fort, and Big Timbers +were favourite resorts, and the trappers and old hunters passed a +lively three or four months every year, indulging in the amusements +I have referred to. They were also wonderful story-tellers, and +around their camp-fires many a tale of terrible adventure with Indians +and vicious animals was nightly related. + +Baptiste Brown was one of the most famous trappers. Few men had seen +more of wild life in the great prairie wilderness. He had hunted +with nearly every tribe of Indians on the plains and in the mountains, +was often at Bent's Fort, and his soul-stirring narratives made him +a most welcome guest at the camp-fire. + +He lived most of his time in the Wind River Mountains, in a beautiful +little valley named after him "Brown's Hole." It has a place on the +maps to-day, and is on what was then called Prairie River, or +Sheetskadee, by the Indians; it is now known as Green River, and is +the source of the great Colorado. + +The valley, which is several thousand feet above the sea-level, +is about fifteen miles in circumference, surrounded by lofty hills, +and is aptly, though not elegantly, characterized as a "hole." +The mountain-grass is of the most nutritious quality; groves of +cottonwood trees and willows are scattered through the sequestered +spot, and the river, which enters it from the north, is a magnificent +stream; in fact, it is the very ideal of a hunter's headquarters. + +The temperature is very equable, and at one time, years ago, hundreds +of trappers made it their winter quarters. Indians, too, of all the +northern tribes, but more especially the Arapahoes, frequented it to +trade with the white men. + +Baptiste Brown was a Canadian who spoke villanous French and worse +English; his vocabulary being largely interspersed with "enfant de +garce," "sacre," "sacre enfant," and "damn" until it was a difficult +matter to tell what he was talking about. + +He was married to an Arapahoe squaw, and his strange wooing and +winning of the dusky maiden is a thrilling love-story. + +Among the maidens who came with the Arapahoes, when that tribe made +a visit to "Brown's Hole" one winter for the purpose of trading with +the whites, was a young, merry, and very handsome girl, named "Unami," +who after a few interviews completely captured Baptiste's heart. +Nothing was more common, as I have stated, than marriages between +the trappers and a beautiful redskin. Isolated absolutely from women +of his own colour, the poor mountaineer forgets he is white, which, +considering the embrowning influence of constant exposure and sunlight, +is not so marvellous after all. For a portion of the year there is +no hunting, and then idleness is the order of the day. At such times +the mountaineer visits the lodges of his dark neighbours for amusement, +and in the spirited dance many a heart is lost to the squaws. +The young trapper, like other enamoured ones of his sex in civilization, +lingers around the house of his fair sweetheart while she transforms +the soft skin of the doe into moccasins, ornamenting them richly +with glittering beads or the coloured quills of the porcupine, all +the time lightening the long hours with the plain-songs of their tribe. +It was upon an occasion of this character that Baptiste, then in the +prime of his youthful manhood, first loved the dark-eyed Arapahoe. + +The course open to him was to woo and win her; but alas! savage papas +are just like fathers in the best civilization--the only difference +between them is that the former are more open and matter-of-fact, +since in savage etiquette a consideration is required in exchange +for the daughter, which belongs exclusively to the parent, and must +be of equal marketable value to the girl. + +The usual method is to select your best horse, take him to the lodge +of your inamorata's parents, tie him to a tree, and walk away. +If the animal is considered a fair exchange, matters are soon settled +satisfactorily; if not, other gifts must be added. + +At this juncture poor Baptiste was in a bad fix; he had disposed of +all his season's earnings for his winter's subsistence, much of which +consisted of an ample supply of whiskey and tobacco; so he had +nothing left wherewith to purchase the indispensable horse. Without +the animal no wife was to be had, and he was in a terrible predicament; +for the hunting season was long since over, and it wanted a whole +month of the time for a new starting out. + +Baptiste was a very determined man, however, and he shouldered his +rifle, intent on accomplishing by a laborious prosecution of the +chase the means of winning his loved one from her parents, +notwithstanding that the elements and the times were against him. +He worked industriously, and after many days was rewarded by a goodly +supply of beavers, otters, and mink which he had trapped, besides +many a deerskin whose wearer he had shot. Returning to his lodge, +where he cached his peltry, he again started out for the forest with +hope filling his heart. Three weeks passed in indifferent success, +when one morning, having entered a deep canyon, which evidently led +out to an open prairie where he thought game might be found, while +busy cutting his way through a thicket of briers with his knife, +he suddenly came upon a little valley, where he saw what caused him +to retrace his footsteps into the thicket. + +And here it is necessary to relate a custom peculiar to all Indian +tribes. No young man, though his father were the greatest chief in +the nation, can range himself among the warriors, be entitled to +enter the marriage state, or enjoy any other rights of savage +citizenship until he shall have performed some act of personal +bravery and daring, or be sprinkled with the blood of his enemies. +In the early springtime, therefore, all the young men who are of the +proper age band themselves together and take to the forest in search +--like the knight-errant of old--of adventure and danger. Having +decided upon a secluded and secret spot, they collect a number of +poles from twenty to thirty feet in length, and, lashing them together +at the small ends, form a huge conical lodge, which they cover with +grass and boughs. Inside they deposit various articles, with which +to "make medicine," or as a propitiatory offering to the Great Spirit; +generally a green buffalo head, kettles, scalps, blankets, and other +things of value, of which the most prominent and revered is the +sacred pipe. The party then enters the lodge and the first ceremony +is smoking this pipe. One of the young men fills it with tobacco and +herbs, places a coal on it from the fire that has been already +kindled in the lodge, and, taking the stem in his mouth, inhales the +smoke and expels it through his nostrils. The ground is touched with +the bowl, the four points of the compass are in turn saluted, and +with various ceremonies it makes the round of the lodge. After many +days of feasting and dancing the party is ready for a campaign, when +they abandon the lodge, and it is death for any one else to enter, +or by any means to desecrate it while its projectors are absent. + +It was upon one of these mystic lodges that Baptiste had accidentally +stumbled, and strange thoughts flashed through his mind; for within +the sacred place were articles, doubtless, of value more than +sufficient to purchase the necessary horse with which he could win +the fair Unami. Baptiste was sorely tempted, but there was an +instinctive respect for religion in the minds of the old trappers, +and Brown had too much honour to think of robbing the Indian temple, +although he distinctly remembered a time when a poor white trapper, +having been robbed of his poncho at the beginning of winter, made +free with a blanket he had found in one of these Arapahoe sacred +lodges. When he was brought before the medicine men of the tribe, +charged with the sacrilege, his defence, that, having been robbed, +the Great Spirit took pity on him and pointed out the blanket and +ordered him to clothe himself, was considered good, on the theory +that the Great Spirit had an undoubted right to give away his own +property; consequently the trapper was set free. + +Brown, after considering the case, was about to move away, when a hand +was laid on his shoulder, and turning round there stood before him +an Indian in full war-paint. + +The greeting was friendly, for the young savage was the brother of +Baptiste's love, to whom he had given many valuable presents during +the past season. + +"My white brother is very wakeful; he rises early." + +Baptiste laughed, and replied: "Yes, because my lodge is empty. +If I had Unami for a wife, I would not have to get out before the sun; +and I would always have a soft seat for her brother; he will be a +great warrior." + +The young brave shook his head gravely, as be pointed to his belt, +where not a scalp was to be seen, and said: "Five moons have gone +to sleep and the Arapahoe hatchet has not been raised. The Blackfeet +are dogs, and hide in their holes." + +Without adding anything to this hint that none of the young men had +been able to fulfil their vows, the disconsolate savage led the way +to the camp of the other Arapahoes, his companions in the quest for +scalps. Baptiste was very glad to see the face of a fellow-creature +once more, and he cheerfully followed the footsteps of the young brave, +which were directed away from the medicine lodge toward the rocky +canyon which he had already travelled that morning, where in the very +centre of the dark defile, and within twenty feet of where he had +recently passed, was the camp of the disappointed band. Baptiste was +cordially received, and invited to share the meal of which the party +were about to partake, after which the pipe was passed around. +In a little while the Indians began to talk among themselves by signs, +which made Baptiste feel somewhat uncomfortable, for it was apparent +that he was the object of their interest. + +They had argued that Brown's skin indicated that he belonged to the +great tribe of their natural enemies, and with the blood of a white +on their garments, they would have fulfilled the terms of their vow +to their friends and the Great Spirit. + +Noticing the trend of the debate, which would lead his friend into +trouble, the brother of Unami arose, and waving his hand said:-- + +"The Arapahoe is a warrior; his feet outstrip the fleetest horse; +his arrow is as the lightning of the Great Spirit; he is very brave. +But a cloud is between him and the sun; he cannot see his enemy; +there is yet no scalp in his lodge. The Great Spirit is good; +he sends a victim, a man whose skin is white, but his heart is very +red; the pale-face is a brother, and his long knife is turned from +his friends, the Arapahoes; but the Great Spirit is all-powerful. +My brother"--pointing to Baptiste--"is very full of blood; he can spare +a little to stain the blankets of the young men, and his heart shall +still be warm; I have spoken." + +As Baptiste expressed it: "Sacre enfant de garce; damn, de ting vas +agin my grain, but de young Arapahoe he have saved my life." + +Loud acclamation followed the speech of Unami's brother, and many of +those most clamorous against the white trapper, being actuated by +the earnest desire of returning home with their vow accomplished, +when they would be received into the list of warriors, and have wives +and other honours, were unanimous in agreeing to the proposed plan. + +A flint lancet was produced, Baptiste's arm was bared, and the blood +which flowed from the slight wound was carefully distributed, and +scattered over the robes of the delighted Arapahoes. + +The scene which followed was quite unexpected to Baptiste, who was +only glad to escape the death to which the majority had doomed him. +The Indians, perfectly satisfied that their vow of shedding an enemy's +blood had been fulfilled, were all gratitude; and to testify that +gratitude in a substantial manner each man sought his pack, and laid +at the feet of the surprised Baptiste a rich present. One gave an +otter skin, another that of a buffalo, and so on until his wealth in +furs outstripped his most sanguine expectations from his hunt. +The brother of Unami stood passively looking on until all the others +had successively honoured his guest, when he advanced toward Baptiste, +leading by its bridle a magnificent horse, fully caparisoned, and +a large pack-mule. To refuse would have been the most flagrant breach +of Indian etiquette, and beside, Brown was too alive to the advantage +that would accrue to him to be other than very thankful. + +The camp was then broken up, and the kind savages were soon lost to +Baptiste's sight as they passed down the canyon; and he, as soon as he +had gained a little strength, for he was weak from the blood he had +shed in the good cause, mounted his horse, after loading the mule +with his gifts, and made the best of his way to his lonely lodge, +where he remained several days. He then sold his furs at a good +price, as it was so early in the season, bartered for a large quantity +of knives, beads, powder, and balls, and returned to the Arapahoe +village, where the horse was considered a fair exchange for the +pretty Unami; and from that day, for over thirty years, they lived +as happy as any couple in the highest civilization. + +The fate of the Pueblo, where the trappers and hunters had such good +times in the halcyon days of the border, like that which befell +nearly all the trading-posts and ranches on the Old Santa Fe Trail, +was to be partially destroyed by the savages. During the early +months of the winter of 1854, the Utes swept down through the Arkansas +valley, leaving a track of blood behind them, and frightening the +settlers so thoroughly that many left the country never to return. +The outbreak was as sudden as it was devastating. The Pueblo was +captured by the savages, and every man, woman, and child in it +murdered, with the exception of one aged Mexican, and he was so badly +wounded that he died in a few days. + +His story was that the Utes came to the gates of the fort on Christmas +morning, professing the greatest friendship, and asking permission +to be allowed to come inside and hold a peace conference. All who +were in the fort at the time were Mexicans, and as their cupidity +led them to believe that they could do some advantageous trading +with the Indians, they foolishly permitted the whole band to enter. +The result was that a wholesale massacre followed. There were +seventeen persons in all quartered there, only one of whom escaped +death--the old man referred to--and a woman and her two children, +who were carried off as captives; but even she was killed before the +savages had gone a mile from the place. What became of the children +was never known; they probably met the same fate. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. +UNCLE JOHN SMITH. + + + +Many of the men of the border were blunt in manners, rude in speech, +driven to the absolute liberty of the far West with better natures +shattered and hopes blasted, to seek in the exciting life of the +plainsman and mountaineer oblivion of some incidents of their youthful +days, which were better forgotten. Yet these aliens from society, +these strangers to the refinements of civilization, who would tear off +a bloody scalp even with grim smiles of satisfaction, were fine +fellows, full of the milk of human kindness, and would share their +last slapjack with a hungry stranger. + +Uncle John Smith, as he was known to every trapper, trader, and +hunter from the Yellowstone to the Gila, was one of the most famous +and eccentric men of the early days. In 1826, as a boy, he ran away +from St. Louis with a party of Santa Fe traders, and so fascinated +was he with the desultory and exciting life, that he chose to sit +cross-legged, smoking the long Indian pipe, in the comfortable +buffalo-skin teepee, rather than cross legs on the broad table of +his master, a tailor to whom he had been apprenticed when he took +French leave from St. Louis. + +He spent his first winter with the Blackfeet Indians, but came very +near losing his scalp in their continual quarrels, and therefore +allied himself with the more peaceable Sioux. Once while on the +trail of a horse-stealing band of Arapahoes near the head waters +of the Arkansas, the susceptible young hunter fell in love with +a very pretty Cheyenne squaw, married her, and remained true to the +object of his early affection during all his long and eventful life, +extending over a period of forty years. For many decades he lived +with his dusky wife as the Indians did, having been adopted by the +tribe. He owned a large number of horses, which constituted the +wealth of the plains Indians, upon the sale of which he depended +almost entirely for his subsistence. He became very powerful in the +Cheyenne nation; was regarded as a chief, taking an active part in +the councils, and exercising much authority. His excellent judgment +as a trader with the various bands of Indians while he was employed +by the great fur companies made his services invaluable in the +strange business complications of the remote border. Besides +understanding the Cheyenne language as well as his native tongue, +he also spoke three other Indian dialects, French, and Spanish, but +with many Western expressions that sometimes grated harshly upon +the grammatical ear. + +He became a sort of autocrat on the plains and in the mountains; and +for an Indian or Mexican to attempt to effect a trade without Uncle +John Smith having something to say about it, and its conditions, was +hardly possible. The New Mexicans often came in small parties to his +Indian village, their burros packed with dry pumpkin, corn, etc., +to trade for buffalo-robes, bearskins, meat, and ponies; and Smith, +who knew his power, exacted tribute, which was always paid. At one +time, however, when for some reason a party of strange Mexicans +refused, Uncle John harangued the people of the village, and called +the young warriors together, who emptied every sack of goods belonging +to the cowering Mexicans on the ground, Smith ordering the women and +children to help themselves, an order which was obeyed with alacrity. +The frightened Mexicans left hurriedly for El Valle de Taos, whence +they had come, crossing themselves and uttering thanks to Heaven for +having retained their scalps. This and other similar cases so +intimidated the poor Greasers, and impressed them so deeply with +a sense of Smith's power, that, ever after, his permission to trade +was craved by a special deputation of the parties, accompanied by +peace-offerings of corn, pumpkin, and pinole. At one time, when +Smith was journeying by himself a day's ride from the Cheyenne village, +he was met by a party of forty or more corn traders, who, instead of +putting such a bane to their prospects speedily out of the way, +gravely asked him if they could proceed, and offered him every third +robe they had to accompany them, which he did. Indeed, he became so +regardless of justice, in his condescension to the natives of +New Mexico, that the governor of that province offered a reward of +five hundred dollars for him alive or dead, but fear of the Cheyennes +was so prevalent that his capture was never even attempted. + +During Sheridan's memorable winter campaign against the allied tribes +in 1868-69, the old man, for he was then about sixty, was my guide +and interpreter. He shared my tent and mess, a most welcome addition +to the few who sat at my table, and beguiled many a weary hour at +night, after our tedious marches through the apparently interminable +sand dunes and barren stretches of our monotonous route, with his +tales of that period, more than half a century ago, when our +mid-continent region was as little known as the topography of the +planet Mars. + +At the close of December, 1868, a few weeks after the battle of the +Washita, I was camping with my command on the bank of that historic +stream in the Indian Territory, waiting with an immense wagon-train +of supplies for the arrival of General Custer's command, the famous +Seventh Cavalry, and also the Nineteenth Kansas, which were supposed +to be lost, or wandering aimlessly somewhere in the region south of us. + +I had been ordered to that point by General Sheridan, with instructions +to keep fires constantly burning on three or four of the highest +peaks in the vicinity of our camp, until the lost troops should be +guided to the spot by our signals. These signals were veritable +pillars of fire by night and pillars of cloud by day; for there was +an abundance of wood and hundreds of men ready to feed the hungry flames. + +It was more than two weeks before General Custer and his famished +troopers began to straggle in. During that period of anxious waiting +we lived almost exclusively on wild turkey, and longed for nature's +meat--the buffalo; but there were none of the shaggy beasts at that +time in the vicinity, so we had to content ourselves with the birds, +of which we became heartily tired. + +For several days after our arrival on the creek, the men had been +urging Uncle John to tell them another story of his early adventures; +but the old trapper was in one of his silent moods--he frequently had +them--and could not be persuaded to emerge from his shell of reticence +despite their most earnest entreaties. I knew it would be of no use +for me to press him. I could, of course, order him to any duty, and +he would promptly obey; but his tongue, like the hand of Douglas, +was his own. I knew, also, that when he got ready, which would be +when some incident of camp-life inspired him, he would be as garrulous +as ever. + +One evening just before supper, a party of enlisted men who had been +up the creek to catch fish, but had failed to take anything owing to +the frozen condition of the stream, returned with the skeleton of +a Cheyenne Indian which they had picked up on the battle-ground of +a month previously--one of Custer's victims in his engagement with +Black Kettle. This was the incentive Uncle John required. As he +gazed on the bleached bones of the warrior, he said: "Boys, I'm going +to tell you a good long story to-night. Them Ingin's bones has put +me in mind of it. After we've eat, if you fellows wants to hear it, +come down to headquarters tent, and I'll give it to you." + +Of course word was rapidly passed from one to another, as the whole +camp was eager to hear the old trapper again. In a short time, +every man not on guard or detailed to keep up the signals on the +hills gathered around the dying embers of the cook's fire in front of +my tent; the enlisted men and teamsters in groups by themselves, +the officers a little closer in a circle, in the centre of which +Uncle John sat. + +The night was cold, the sky covered with great fleecy patches, +through which the full moon, just fairly risen, appeared to be racing, +under the effect of that optical illusion caused by the rapidly +moving clouds. The coyotes had commenced their nocturnal concert +in the timbered recesses of the creek not far away, and on the +battle-field a short distance beyond, as they battened and fought +over the dead warriors and the carcasses of twelve hundred ponies +killed in that terrible slaughter by the intrepid Custer and his +troopers. The signals on the hills leaped into the crisp air like +the tongues of dragons in the myths of the ancients; in fact, +the whole aspect of the place, as we sat around the blazing logs of +our camp-fire, was weird and uncanny. + +Every one was eager for the veteran guide to begin his tale; but as +I knew he could not proceed without smoking, I passed him my pouch +of Lone Jack--the brand par excellence in the army at that time. + +Uncle John loaded his corn-cob, picked up a live coal, and, pressing +it down on the tobacco with his thumb, commenced to puff vigorously. +As soon as his withered old face was half hidden in a cloud of smoke, +he opened his story in his stereotyped way. I relate it just as he +told it, but divested of much of its dialect, so difficult to write:-- + +"Well, boys, it's a good many years ago, in June, 1845, if I don't +disremember. I was about forty-three, and had been in the mountains +and on the plains more than nineteen seasons. You see, I went out +there in 1826. There warn't no roads, nuthin' but the Santa Fe Trail, +in them days, and Ingins and varmints. + +"There was four of us. Me, Bill Comstock, Dick Curtis, and Al Thorpe. +Dick was took in by the Utes two years afterwards at the foot of the +Spanish Peaks, and Al was killed by the Apaches at Pawnee Rock, in 1847. + +"We'd been trapping up on Medicine Bow for more than three years +together, and had a pile of beaver, otter, mink, and other varmint's +skins cached in the hills, which we know'd was worth a heap of money; +so we concluded to take them to the river that summer. We started +from our trapping camp in April, and 'long 'bout the middle of June +reached the Arkansas, near what is know'd as Point o' Rocks. You all +know where them is on the Trail west of Fort Dodge, and how them +rocks rises up out of the prairie sudden-like. We was a travelling +'long mighty easy, for we was all afoot, and had hoofed it the whole +distance, more than six hundred miles, driving five good mules ahead +of us. Our furs was packed on four of them, and the other carried +our blankets, extry ammunition, frying-pan, coffee-pot, and what +little grub we had, for we was obliged to depend upon buffalo, +antelope, and jack-rabbits; but, boys, I tell you there was millions +of 'em in them days. + +"We had just got into camp at Point o' Rocks. It was 'bout four +o'clock in the afternoon; none of us carried watches, we always +reckoned time by the sun, and could generally guess mighty close, too. +It was powerful hot, I remember. We'd hobbled our mules close to the +ledge, where the grass was good, so they couldn't be stampeded, as +we know'd we was in the Pawnee country, and they was the most ornery +Ingins on the plains. We know'd nothing that was white ever came by +that part of the Trail without having a scrimmage with the red devils. + +"Well, we hadn't more than took our dinner, when them mules give +a terrible snort, and tried to break and run, getting awful oneasy +all to once. Them critters can tell when Ingins is around. They's +better than a dozen dogs. I don't know how they can tell, but they +just naturally do. + +"In less than five minutes after them mules began to worry, stopped +eating, and had their ears pricked up a trying to look over the ledge +towards the river, we heard a sharp firing down on the Trail, which +didn't appear to be more than a hundred yards off. You ought to seen +us grab our rifles sudden, and run out from behind them rocks, where +we was a camping, so comfortable-like, and just going to light our +pipes for a good smoke. It didn't take us no time to get down on to +the Trail, where we seen a Mexican bull train, that we know'd must +have come from Santa Fe, and which had stopped and was trying to corral. +More than sixty painted Pawnees was a circling around the outfit, +howling as only them can howl, and pouring a shower of arrows into +the oxen. Some was shaking their buffalo-robes, trying to stampede +the critters, so they could kill the men easier. + +"We lit out mighty lively, soon as we seen what was going on, and +reached the head of the train just as the last wagon, that was +furtherest down the Trail, nigh a quarter of a mile off, was cut out +by part of the band. Then we seen a man, a woman, and a little boy +jump out, and run to get shet of the Ingins what had cut out the +wagon from the rest of the train. One of the red devils killed the +man and scalped him, while the other pulled the woman up in front +of him, and rid off into the sand hills, and out of sight in a minute. +Then the one what had killed her husband started for the boy, who was +a running for the train as fast as his little legs could go. But we +was nigh enough then; and just as the Ingin was reaching down from +his pony for the kid, Al Thorpe--he was a powerful fine shot--draw'd up +his gun and took the red cuss off his critter without the paint-bedaubed +devil know'n' what struck him. + +"The boy, seeing us, broke and run for where we was, and I reckon +the rest of the Ingins seen us then for the first time, too. We was +up with the train now, which was kind o' halfway corralled, and +Dick Curtis picked up the child--he warn't more than seven years old-- +and throw'd him gently into one of the wagons, where he'd be out of +the way; for we know'd there was going to be considerable more +fighting before night. We know'd, too, we Americans would have to do +the heft of it, as them Mexican bull-whackers warn't much account, +nohow, except to cavort around and swear in Spanish, which they +hadn't done nothing else since we'd come up to the train; besides, +their miserable guns warn't much better than so many bows and arrows. + +"We Americans talked together for a few moments as to what was best +to be did, while the Ingins all this time was keeping up a lively +fire for them. We made as strong a corral of the wagons as we could, +driving out what oxen the Mexicans had put in the one they had made, +but you can't do much with only nine wagons, nohow. Fortunately, +while we was fixing things, the red cusses suddenly retreated out of +the range of our rifles, and we first thought they had cleared out +for good. We soon discovered, however, they were only holding a +pow-wow; for in a few minutes back they come, mounted on their ponies, +with all their fixin's and fresh war-paint on. + +"Then they commenced to circle around us again, coming a little +nearer--Ingin fashion--every time they rid off and back. It wasn't +long before they got in easy range, when they slung themselves on +the off-side of their ponies and let fly their arrows and balls from +under their critters' necks. Their guns warn't much 'count, being +only old English muskets what had come from the Hudson Bay Fur Company, +so they didn't do no harm that round, except to scare the Mexicans, +which commenced to cross themselves and pray and swear. + +"We four Americans warn't idle when them Ingins come a charging up; +we kept our eye skinned, and whenever we could draw a bead, one of +them tumbled off his pony, you bet! When they'd come back for their +dead--we'd already killed three of them--we had a big advantage, wasted +no shots, and dropped four of them; one apiece, and you never heard +Ingins howl so. It was getting kind o' dark by this time, and the +varmints didn't seem anxious to fight any more, but went down to the +river and scooted off into the sand hills on the other side. +We waited more than half an hour for them, but as they didn't come +back, concluded we'd better light out too. We told the Mexicans to +yoke up, and as good luck would have it they found all the cattle +close by, excepting them what pulled the wagon what the Ingins had +cut out, and as it was way down the Trail, we had to abandon it; +for it was too dark to hunt it up, as we had no time to fool away. + +"We put all our outfit into the train; it wasn't loaded, but going +empty to the Missouri, to fetch back a sawmill for New Mexico. +Then we made a soft bed in the middle wagon out of blankets for the +kid, and rolled out 'bout ten o'clock, meaning to put as many miles +between us and them Ingins as the oxen could stand. We four hoofed it +along for a while, then rid a piece, catching a nap now and then as +best we could, for we was monstrous tired. By daylight we'd made +fourteen miles, and was obliged to stop to let the cattle graze. +We boiled our coffee, fried some meat, and by that time the little +boy waked. He'd slept like a top all night and hadn't no supper +either; so when I went to the wagon where he was to fetch him out, +he just put them baby arms of his'n around my neck, and says, +'Where's mamma?' + +"I tell you, boys, that nigh played me out. He had no idee, 'cause +he was too young to realize what had happened; we know'd his pa was +killed, but where his ma was, God only know'd!" + +Here the old man stopped short in his narrative, made two or three +efforts as if to swallow something that would not go down, while his +eyes had a far-away look. Presently he picked up a fresh coal from +the fire, placed it on his pipe, which had gone out, then puffing +vigorously for a few seconds, until his head was again enveloped in +smoke, he continued:-- + +"After I'd washed the little fellow's face and hands, I gave him a +tin cup of coffee and some meat. You'd ought to seen him eat; he was +hungrier than a coyote. Then while the others was a watering and +picketing the mules, I sot down on the grass and took the kid into +my lap to have a good look at him; for until now none of us had had +a chance. + +"He was the purtiest child I'd ever seen; great black eyes, and +eyelashes that laid right on to his cheeks; his hair, too, was black, +and as curly as a young big-horn. I asked him what his name was, and +he says, 'Paul.' 'Hain't you got no other name?' says I to him again, +and he answered, 'Yes, sir,' for he was awful polite; I noticed that. +'Paul Dale,' says he prompt-like, and them big eyes of his'n looked +up into mine, as he says 'What be yourn?' I told him he must call me +'Uncle John,' and then he says again, as he put his arms around my +neck, his little lips all a quivering, and looking so sorrowful, +'Uncle John, where's mamma; why don't she come?' + +"Boys, I don't really know what I did say. A kind o' mist came +before my eyes, and for a minute or two I didn't know nothing. +I come to in a little while, and seeing Thorpe bringing up the mules +from the river, where he'd been watering them, I says to Paul, to get +his mind on to something else besides his mother, 'Don't you want to +ride one of them mules when we pull out again?' The little fellow +jumped off my lap, clapped his hands, forgetting his trouble all at +once, child-like, and replied, 'I do, Uncle John, can I?' + +"After we'd camped there 'bout three hours, the cattle full of grass +and all laying down chewing their cud, we concluded to move on and +make a few miles before it grow'd too hot, and to get further from +the Ingins, which we expected would tackle us again, as soon as they +could get back from their camp, where we felt sure they had gone for +reinforcements. + +"While the Mexicans was yoking up, me and Thorpe rigged an easy +saddle on one of the mules, out of blankets, for the kid to ride on, +and when we was all ready to pull out, I histed him on, and you never +see a youngster so tickled. + +"We had to travel mighty slow; couldn't make more than eighteen miles +a day with oxen, and that was in two drives, one early in the morning, +and one in the evening when it was cool, a laying by and grazing when +it was hot. We Americans walked along the Trail, and mighty slow +walking it was; 'bout two and a half miles an hour. I kept close +to Paul, for I began to set a good deal of store by him; he seemed +to cotton to me more than he did to the rest, wanting to stick near +me most of the time as he rid on the mule. I wanted to find out +something 'bout his folks, where they'd come from; so that when we +got to Independence, perhaps I could turn him over to them as ought +to have him; though in my own mind I was ornery enough to wish I +might never find them, and he'd be obliged to stay with me. The boy +was too young to tell what I wanted to find out; all I could get out +of him was they'd been living in Santa Fe since he was a baby, and +that his papa was a preacher. I 'spect one of them missionaries +'mong the heathenish Greasers. He said they was going back to his +grandma's in the States, but he could not tell where. I couldn't +get nothing out of them Mexican bull-whackers neither--what they +know'd wasn't half as much as the kid--and I had to give it up. + +"Well, we kept moving along without having any more trouble for +a week; them Ingins never following us as we 'lowed they would. +I really enjoyed the trip such as I never had before. Paul he was +so 'fectionate and smart, that he 'peared to fill a spot in my heart +what had always been hollow until then. When he'd got tired of +riding the mule or in one of the wagons, he'd come and walk along +the Trail with me, a picking flowers, chasing the prairie-owls and +such, until his little legs 'bout played out, when I'd hist him on +his mule again. When we'd go into camp, Paul, he'd run and pick up +buffalo-chips for the fire, and wanted to help all he could. +Then when it came time to go to sleep, the boy would always get under +my blankets and cuddle up close to me. He'd be sure to say his +prayers first, though; but it seemed so strange to me who hadn't +heard a prayer for thirty years. I never tried to stop him, you may +be certain of that. He'd ask God to bless his pa and ma, and wind up +with 'Bless Uncle John too.' Then I couldn't help hugging him right +up tighter; for it carried me back to Old Missouri, to the log-cabin +in the woods where I was born, and used to say 'Now I lay me,' and +'Our Father' at my ma's knee, when I was a kid like him. I tell you, +boys, there ain't nothing that will take the conceit out of a man +here on the plains, like the company of a kid what has been +brought up right. + +"I reckon we'd been travelling about ten days since we left Point o' +Rocks, and was on the other side of the Big Bend of the Arkansas, +near the mouth of the Walnut, where Fort Zarah is now. We had went +into camp at sundown, close to a big spring that's there yet. +We drawed up the wagons into a corral on the edge of the river where +there wasn't no grass for quite a long stretch; we done this to kind +o' fortify ourselves, for we expected to have trouble with the Ingins +there, if anywhere, as we warn't but seventeen miles from Pawnee Rock, +the worst place on the whole Trail for them; so we picked out that +bare spot where they couldn't set fire to the prairie. It was long +after dark when we eat our supper; then we smoked our pipes, waiting +for the oxen to fill themselves, which had been driven about a mile +off where there was good grass. The Mexicans was herding them, and +when they'd eat all they could hold, and was commencing to lay down, +they was driven into the corral. Then all of us, except Comstock and +Curtis, turned in; they was to stand guard until 'bout one o'clock, +when me and Thorpe was to change places with them and stay up until +morning; for, you see, we was afraid to trust them Mexicans. + +"It seemed like we hadn't been asleep more than an hour when me and +Thorpe was called to take our turn on guard. We got out of our +blankets, I putting Paul into one of the wagons, then me and Thorpe +lighted our pipes and walked around, keeping our eyes and ears open, +watching the heavy fringe of timber on the creek mighty close, I tell +you. Just as daylight was coming, we noticed that our mules, what +was tied to a wagon in the corral, was getting uneasy, a pawing and +snorting, with their long ears cocked up and looking toward the Walnut. +Before I could finish saying to Thorpe, 'Them mules smells Ingins,' +half a dozen or more of the darned cusses dashed out of the timber, +yelling and shaking their robes, which, of course, waked up the whole +camp. Me and Thorpe sent a couple of shots after them, that scattered +the devils for a minute; but we hadn't hit nary one, because it was +too dark yet to draw a bead on them. We was certain there was a good +many more of them behind the first that had charged us; so we got all +the men on the side of the corral next to the Trail. The Ingins we +know'd couldn't get behind us, on account of the river, and we was +bound to make them fight where we wanted them to, if they meant to +fight at all. + +"In less than a minute, quicker than I can tell you, sure enough, +out they came again, only there was 'bout eighty of them this time. +They made a dash at once, and their arrows fell like a shower of hail +on the ground and against the wagon-sheets as the cusses swept by on +their ponies. There wasn't anybody hurt, and our turn soon came. +Just as they circled back, we poured it into them, killing six and +wounding two. You see them Mexican guns had did some work that we +didn't expect, and then we Americans felt better. Well, boys, +them varmints made four charges like that on to us before we could +get shet of them; but we killed as many as sixteen or eighteen, and +they got mighty sick of it and quit; they had only knocked over one +Mexican, and put an arrow into Thorpe's arm. + +"I was amused at little Paul all the time the scrimmage was going on. +He stood up in the wagon where I'd put him, a looking out of the hole +behind where the sheet was drawed together, and every time an Ingin +was tumbled off his pony, he would clap his hands and yell, 'There +goes another one, Uncle John!' + +"After their last charge, they rode off out of range, where they +stood in little bunches talking to each other, holding some sort of +a pow-wow. It riled us to see the darned cusses keep so far away +from our rifles, because we wanted to lay a few more of them out, but +was obliged to keep still and watch out for some new deviltry. +We waited there until it was plumb night, not daring to move out yet; +but we managed to boil our coffee and fry slap-jacks and meat. + +"The oxen kept up a bellowing and pawing around the corral, for they +was desperate hungry and thirsty, hadn't had nothing since the night +before; yet we couldn't help them any, as we didn't know whether we +was shet of the Ingins or not. We staid, patient-like, for two or +three hours more after dark to see what the Ingins was going to do, +as while we sot round our little fire of buffalo-chips, smoking our +pipes, we could still hear the red devils a howling and chanting, +while they picked up their dead laying along the river-bottom. + +"As soon as morning broke--we'd ketched a nap now and then during +the night--we got ready for another charge of the Ingins, their +favourite time being just 'bout daylight; but there warn't hide or +hair of an Ingin in sight. They'd sneaked off in the darkness long +before the first streak of dawn; had enough of fighting, I expect. +As soon as we discovered they'd all cleared out, we told the drivers +to hitch up, and while they was yoking and watering, me 'n' Curtis +and Comstock buried the dead Mexican on the bank of the river, as we +didn't want to leave his bones to be picked by the coyotes, which +was already setting on the sand hills watching and waiting for us +to break camp. By the time we'd finished our job, and piled some +rocks on his grave, so as the varmints couldn't dig him up, the train +was strung out on the Trail, and then we rolled out mighty lively +for oxen; for the critters was hungry, and we had to travel three +or four miles the other side of the Walnut, where the grass was green, +before they could feed. The oxen seen it on the hills and they +lit out almost at a trot. It was 'bout sun-up when we got there, +when we turned the animals loose, corralled, and had breakfast. + +"After we'd had our smoke, all we had to do was to put in the time +until five o'clock; for we couldn't move before then, as it would be +too hot by the time the oxen got filled. Paul and me went down to +the creek fishing; there was tremendous cat in the Walnut them days, +and by noon we'd ketched five big beauties, which we took to camp and +cooked for dinner. After I'd had my smoke, Paul and me went back to +the creek, where we stretched ourselves under a good-sized box-elder +tree--there wasn't no shade nowhere else--and took a sleep, while +Comstock and Curtis went jack-rabbit hunting across the river, as we +was getting scarce of meat. + +"Thorpe, who was hit in the arm with an arrow, couldn't do much but +nuss his wound; so him and the Mexicans stood guard, a looking out +for Ingins, as we didn't know but what the cusses might come back and +make another raid on us, though we really didn't expect they would +have the gall to bother us any more--least not the same outfit what +had fought us the day before. That evening, 'bout six o'clock, +we rolled out again and went into camp late, having made twelve miles, +and didn't see a sign of Ingins. + +"In ten days more we got to Independence without having no more +trouble of no kind, and was surprised at our luck. At Independence +we Americans left the train, sold our furs, got a big price, too-- +each of us had a shot-bag full of gold and silver, more money than +we know'd what to do with. Me, Curtis, and Thorpe concluded we'd buy +a new outfit, consisting of another six-mule wagon, and harness, +so we'd have a full team, meaning to go back to the mountains with +the first big caravan what left. + +"All the folks in the settlement what seen Paul took a great fancy +to him. Some wanted to adopt him, and some said I'd ought to take +him to St. Louis and place him in an orphan asylum; but I 'lowed if +there was going to be any adopting done, I'd do it myself, 'cause +the kid seemed now just as if he was my own; besides the little +fellow I know'd loved me and didn't want me to leave him. I had +kin-folks in Independence, an old aunt, and me and Paul staid there. +She had a young gal with her, and she learned Paul out of books; +so he picked up considerable, as we had to wait more than two months +before Colonel St. Vrain's caravan was ready to start for New Mexico. + +"I bought Paul a coal-black pony, and had a suit of fine buckskin +made for him out of the pelt of a black-tail deer I'd shot the winter +before on Powder River. The seams of his trousers was heavily +fringed, and with his white sombrero, a riding around town on his +pony, he looked like one of them Spanish Dons what the papers +nowadays has pictures of; only he was smarter-looking than any Don +I ever see in my life. + +"It was 'bout the last of August when we pulled out from Independence. +Comstock staid with us until we got ready to go, and then lit out +for St. Louis, and I hain't never seen him since. The caravan had +seventy-five six-mule teams in it, without counting ours, loaded with +dry-goods and groceries for Mora, New Mexico, where Colonel St. Vrain, +the owner, lived and had a big store. We had no trouble with the +Ingins going back across the plains; we seen lots, to be sure, +hanging on our trail, but they never attacked us; we was too strong +for them. + +"'Bout the last of September we reached Bent's Old Fort, on the +Arkansas, where the Santa Fe Trail crosses the river into New Mexico, +and we camped there the night we got to it. + +"I know'd they had cows up to the fort; so just before we was ready +for supper, I took Paul and started to see if we couldn't get some +milk for our coffee. It wasn't far, and we was camped a few hundred +yards from the gate, just outside the wall. Well, we went into the +kitchen, Paul right alongside of me, and there I seen a white woman +leaning over the adobe hearth a cooking--they had always only been +squaws before. She naturally looked up to find out who was coming in, +and when she seen the kid, all at once she give a scream, dropped the +dish-cloth she had in her hand, made a break for Paul, throw'd her +arms around him, nigh upsetting me, and says, while she was a sobbing +and taking on dreadful,-- + +"'My boy! My boy! Then I hain't prayed and begged the good Lord +all these days and nights for nothing!' Then she kind o' choked +again, while Paul, he says, as he hung on to her,-- + +"'O mamma! O mamma! I know'd you'd come back! I know'd you'd +come back!' + +"Well, there, boys, I just walked out of that kitchen a heap faster +than I'd come into it, and shut the door. When I got outside, for +a few minutes I couldn't see nothing, I was worked up so. As soon +as I come to, I went through the gate down to camp as quick as my +legs would carry me, to tell Thorpe and Curtis that Paul had found +his ma. They wanted to know all about it, but I couldn't tell them +nothing, I was so dumfounded at the way things had turned out. +We talked among ourselves a moment, then reckoned it was the best +to go up to the fort together, and ask the woman how on earth she'd +got shet of the Ingins what had took her off, and how it come she +was cooking there. We started out and when we got into the kitchen, +there was Paul and Mrs. Dale, and you never see no people so happy. +They was just as wild as a stampeded steer; she seemed to have growed +ten years younger than when I first went up there, and as for Paul, +he was in heaven for certain. + +"First we had to tell her how we'd got the kid, and how we'd learned +to love him. All the time we was telling of it, and our scrimmages +with the Ingins, she was a crying and hugging Paul as if her heart +was broke. After we'd told all we know'd, we asked her to tell us +her story, which she did, and it showed she was a woman of grit and +education. + +"She said the Ingins what had captured her took her up to their camp +on the Saw Log, a little creek north of Fort Dodge--you all know where +it is--and there she staid that night. Early in the morning they all +started for the north. She watched their ponies mighty close as +they rid along that day, so as to find out which was the fastest; +for she had made up her mind to make her escape the first chance +she got. She looked at the sun once in a while, to learn what course +they was taking; so that she could go back when she got ready, strike +the Sante Fe Trail, and get to some ranch, as she had seen several +while passing through the foot-hills of the Raton Range when she was +with the Mexican train. + +"It was on the night of the fourth day after they had left Saw Log, +and had rid a long distance--was more than a hundred miles on their +journey--when she determined to try and light out. The whole camp +was fast asleep, for the Ingins was monstrous tired. She crawled +out of the lodge where she'd been put with some old squaws, and +going to where the ponies had been picketed, she took a little +iron-gray she'd had her eye on, jumped on his back, with only the +lariat for a bridle and without any saddle, not even a blanket, +took her bearings from the north star, and cautiously moved out. +She started on a walk, until she'd got 'bout four miles from camp, +and then struck a lope, keeping it up all night. By next morning +she'd made some forty miles, and then for the first time since she'd +left her lodge, pulled up and looked back, to see if any of the Ingins +was following her. When she seen there wasn't a living thing in sight, +she got off her pony, watered him out of a small branch, took a drink +herself, but not daring to rest yet, mounted her animal again and +rid on as fast as she could without wearing him out too quickly. + +"Hour after hour she rid on, the pony appearing to have miraculous +endurance, until sundown. By that time she'd crossed the Saline, +the Smoky Hill, and got to the top of the divide between that river +and the Arkansas, or not more than forty miles from the Santa Fe Trail. +Then her wonderful animal seemed to weaken; she couldn't even make +him trot, and she was so nearly played out herself, she could hardly +set steady. What to do, she didn't know. The pony was barely able +to move at a slow walk. She was afraid he would drop dead under her, +and she was compelled to dismount, and in almost a minute, as soon +as she laid down on the prairie, was fast asleep. + +"She had no idee how long she had slept when she woke up. The sun was +only 'bout two hours high. Then she know'd she had been unconscious +since sundown of the day before, or nigh twenty-four hours. Rubbing +her eyes, for she was kind o' bewildered, and looking around, there +she saw her pony as fresh, seemingly, as when she'd started. +He'd had plenty to eat, for the grass was good, but she'd had nothing. +She pulled a little piece of dried buffalo-meat out of her bosom, +which she'd brought along, all she could find at the lodge, and now +nibbled at that, for she was mighty hungry. She was terribly sore +and stiff too, but she mounted at once and pushed on, loping and +walking him by spells. Just at daylight she could make out the +Arkansas right in front of her in the dim gray of the early morning, +not very far off. On the west, the Raton Mountains loomed up like +a great pile of blue clouds, the sight of which cheered her; for she +know'd she would soon reach the Trail. + +"It wasn't quite noon when she struck the Santa Fe Trail. When she +got there, looking to the east, she saw in the distance, not more +than three miles away, a large caravan coming, and then, almost wild +with delight, she dismounted, sot down on the grass, and waited for +it to arrive. In less than an hour, the train come up to where she +was, and as good luck would have it, it happened to be an American +outfit, going to Taos with merchandise. As soon as the master of +the caravan seen her setting on the prairie, he rid up ahead of the +wagons, and she told him her story. He was a kind-hearted man; +had the train stop right there on the bank of the river, though he +wasn't half through his day's drive, so as to make her comfortable +as possible, and give her something to eat; for she was 'bout +played out. He bought the Ingin pony, giving her thirty dollars +for it, and after she had rested for some time, the caravan moved out. +She rid in one of the wagons, on a bed of blankets, and the next +evening arrived at Bent's Old Fort. There she found women-folks, +who cared for her and nussed her; for she was dreadfully sore and +tired after her long ride. Then she was hired to cook, meaning to +work until she'd earned enough to take her back to Pennsylvany, +to her mother's, where she had started for when the Ingins attackted +the train. + +"That night, after listening to her mirac'lous escape, we made up +a 'pot' for her, collecting 'bout eight hundred dollars. The master +of Colonel St. Vrain's caravan, what had come out with us, told her +he was going back again to the river in a couple of weeks, and he'd +take her and Paul in without costing her a cent; besides, she'd be +safer than with any other outfit, as his train was a big one, and +he had all American teamsters. + +"Next morning the caravan went on to Mora, and after we'd bid good-by +to Mrs. Dale and Paul, before which I give the boy two hundred dollars +for himself, me, Thorpe, and Curtis pulled out with our team north +for Frenchman's Creek, and I never felt so miserable before nor since +as I did parting with the kid that morning. I hain't never seen him +since; but he must be nigh forty now. Mebby he went into the war and +was killed; mebby he got to be a general, but I hain't forgot him." + +Uncle John knocked the ashes out of his pipe, and without saying +another word went into the tent. In a few moments the camp was as +quiet as a country village on Sunday, excepting the occasional howling +of a hungry wolf down in the timbered recesses of the Washita, or the +crackling and sputtering of the signal fires on the hilltops. + +In a few days afterward, we were camping on Hackberry Creek, in the +Indian Territory. We had been living on wild turkey, as before for +some time, and still longed for a change. At last one of my hunters +succeeded in bagging a dozen or more quails. Late that evening, +when my cook brought the delicious little birds, beautifully spitted +and broiled on peeled willow twigs, into my tent, I passed one to +Uncle John. Much to the surprise of every one, he refused. He said, +"Boys, I don't eat no quail!" + +We looked at him in astonishment; for he was somewhat of a gourmand, +and prided himself upon the "faculty," as he termed it, of being able +to eat anything, from a piece of jerked buffalo-hide to the juiciest +young antelope steak. + +I remonstrated with the venerable guide; said to him, "You are making +a terrible mistake, Uncle John. Tomorrow I expect to leave here, and +as we are going directly away from the buffalo country, we don't know +when we shall strike fresh meat again. You'd better try one," and +I again proffered one of the birds. + +"Boys," said he again, "I don't tech quail; I hain't eat one for +more than twenty years. One of the little cusses saved my life once, +and I swore right thar and then that I would starve first; and I have +kept my oath, though I've seen the time mighty often sence I could +a killed 'em with my quirt, when all I had to chaw on for four days +was the soles of a greasy pair of old moccasins. + +"Well, boys, it's a good many years ago--in June, if I don't disremember, +1847. We was a coming in from way up in Cache le Poudre and from +Yellowstone Lake, whar we'd been a trapping for two seasons. We was +a working our way slowly back to Independence, Missouri, where we was +a going to get a new outfit. Let's see, there was me, and a man by +the name of Boyd, and Lew Thorp--Lew was a working for Colonel Boone +at the time--and two more men, whose names I disremember now, and a +nigger wench we had for a cook. We had mighty good luck, and had +a big pile of skins; and the Indians never troubled us till we got +down on Pawnee Bottom, this side of Pawnee Rock. We all of us had +mighty good ponies, but Thorp had a team and wagon, which he was +driving for Colonel Boone. + +"We had went into camp on Pawnee Bottom airly in the afternoon, and +I told the boys to look out for Ingins--for I knowed ef we was to have +any trouble with them it would be somewhere in that vicinity. But we +didn't see a darned redskin that night, nor the sign of one. + +"The wolves howled considerable, and come pretty close to the fire +for the bacon rinds we'd throwed away after supper. + +"You see the buffalo was scurse right thar then--it was the wrong +time o' year. They generally don't get down on to the Arkansas +till about September, and when they're scurse the wolves and coyotes +are mighty sassy, and will steal a piece of bacon rind right out of +the pan, if you don't watch 'em. So we picketed our ponies a little +closer before we turned in, and we all went to sleep except one, +who sort o' kept watch on the stock. + +"I was out o' my blankets mighty airly next morning, for I was kind +o' suspicious. I could always tell when Ingins was prowling around, +and I had a sort of present'ment something was going to happen +--I didn't like the way the coyotes kept yelling--so I rested kind o' +oneasy like, and was out among the ponies by the first streak o' +daylight. + +"About the time I could see things, I discovered three or four +buffalo grazing off on the creek bottom, about a half-mile away, +and I started for my rifle, thinking I would examine her. + +"Pretty soon I seed Thorp and Boyd crawl out o' their blankets, too, +and I called their attention to the buffalo, which was still feeding +undisturbed. + +"We'd been kind o' scurse of fresh meat for a couple of weeks--ever +since we left the Platte--except a jack-rabbit or cottontail, and I +knowed the boys would be wanting to get a quarter or two of a good +fat cow, if we could find one in the herd, so that was the reason +I pointed 'em out to 'em. + +"The dew, you see, was mighty heavy, and the grass in the bottom +was as wet as if it had been raining for a month, and I didn't care +to go down whar the buffalo was just then--I knowed we had plenty +of time, and as soon as the sun was up it would dry right off. So I +got on to one of the ponies and led the others down to the spring +near camp to water them while the wench was a getting breakfast, and +some o' the rest o' the outfit was a fixing the saddles and greasing +the wagon. + +"Just as I was coming back--it had growed quite light then--I seed Boyd +and Thorp start out from camp with their rifles and make for the +buffalo; so I picketed the ponies, gets my rifle, and starts off too. + +"By the time I'd reached the edge of the bottom, Thorp and Boyd was +a crawling up on to a young bull way off to the right, and I lit out +for a fat cow I seen bunched up with the rest of the herd on the left. + +"The grass was mighty tall on some parts of the Arkansas bottom in them +days, and I got within easy shooting range without the herd seeing me. + +"The buffalo was now between me and Thorp and Boyd, and they was +furtherest from camp. I could see them over the top of the grass +kind o' edging up to the bull, and I kept a crawling on my hands and +knees toward the cow, and when I got about a hundred and fifty yards +of her, I pulled up my rifle and drawed a bead. + +"Just as I was running my eyes along the bar'l, a darned little quail +flew right out from under my feet and lit exactly on my front sight +and of course cut off my aim--we didn't shoot reckless in those days; +every shot had to tell, or a man was the laughing-stock for a month +if he missed his game. + +"I shook the little critter off and brought up my rifle again when, +durn my skin, if the bird didn't light right on to the same place; +at the same time my eyes grow'd kind o' hazy-like and in a minute +I didn't know nothing. + +"When I come to, the quail was gone, I heerd a couple of rifle shots, +and right in front of where the bull had stood and close to Thorp and +Boyd, half a dozen Ingins jumped up out o' the tall grass and, firing +into the two men, killed Thorp instantly and wounded Boyd. + +"He and me got to camp--keeping off the Ingins, who knowed I was loaded-- +when we, with the rest of the outfit, drove the red devils away. + +"They was Apaches, and the fellow that shot Thorp was a half-breed +nigger and Apache. He scalped Thorp and carred off the whole upper +part of his skull with it. He got Thorp's rifle and bullet-pouch too, +and his knife. + +"We buried Thorp in the bottom there, and some of the party cut their +names on the stones that they covered his body up with, to keep the +coyotes from eating up his bones. + +"Boyd got on to the river with us all right, and I never heerd of him +after we separated at Booneville. We pulled out soon after the +Indians left, but we didn't get no buffalo-meat. + +"You see, boys, if I'd a fired into that cow, the devils would a +had me before I could a got a patch on my ball--didn't have no +breech-loaders in them days, and it took as much judgment to know +how to load a rifle properly as it did to shoot it. + +"Them Ingins knowed all that--they knowed I hadn't fired, so they +kept a respectable distance. I would a fired, but the quail saved +my life by interfering with my sight--and that's the reason I don't +eat no quail. I hain't superstitious, but I don't believe they was +meant to be eat." + +Uncle John stuck to his text, I believe, until he died, and you +could never disabuse his mind of the idea that the quail lighting +on his rifle was not a special interposition of Providence. + +Only four years after he told his story, in 1872, one of the newly +established settlers, living a few miles west of Larned on Pawnee +Bottom, having observed in one of his fields a singular depression, +resembling an old grave, determined to dig down and see if there was +any special cause for the strange indentation on his land. + +A couple of feet below the surface he discovered several flat pieces +of stone, on one of which the words "Washington" and "J. Hildreth" +were rudely cut, also a line separating them, and underneath: +"December tenth" and "J. M., 1850." On another was carved the name +"J. H. Shell," with other characters that could not be deciphered. +On a third stone were the initials "H. R., 1847"; underneath which +was plainly cut "J. R. Boyd," and still beneath "J. R. Pring." +At the very bottom of the excavation were found the lower portion +of the skull, one or two ribs, and one of the bones of the leg of +a human being. The piece of skull was found near the centre of the +grave, for such it certainly was. + +At the time of the discovery I was in Larned, and I immediately +consulted my book of notes and memoranda taken hurriedly at intervals +on the plains and in the mountains, during more than half my lifetime, +to see if I could find anything that would solve the mystery attached +to the quiet prairie-grave and its contents, and I then recalled +Uncle John Smith's story of the quail as related to me at my camp. +I also met Colonel A. G. Boone that winter in Washington; he remembered +the circumstances well. Thorp was working for him, as Smith had +said, and was killed by an Apache, who, in scalping him, tore the +half of his head away, and it was thus found mutilated, so +many years afterward. + +Uncle John was in one of his garrulous moods that night, and as we +were not by any means tired of hearing the veteran trapper talk, +without much urging he told us the following tale:-- + +"Well, boys, thirty years ago, beaver, mink, and otter was found in +abundacious quantities on all the streams in the Rocky Mountains. +The trade in them furs was a paying business, for the little army +of us fellows called trappers. They ain't any of 'em left now, +no mor'n the animals we used to hunt. We had to move about from +place to place, just as if we was so many Ingins. Sometimes we'd +construct little cabins in the timber, or a dugout where the game +was plenty, where we'd stay maybe for a month or two, and once in +a while--though not often--a whole year. + +"The Ingins was our mortal enemies; they'd get a scalp from our +fellows occasionally, but for every one they had of ours we had +a dozen of theirs. + +"In the summer of 1846, there was a little half dugout, half cabin, +opposite the mouth of Frenchman's Creek, put up by Bill Thorpe, +Al Boyd, and Rube Stevens. Bill and Al was men grown, and know'd +more 'bout the prairies and timber than the Ingins themselves. +They'd hired out to the Northwest Fur Company when they was mere kids, +and kept on trapping ever since. Rube--'Little Rube' as all the +old men called him--was 'bout nineteen, and plumb dumb; he could hear +well enough though, for he wasn't born that way. When he was seventeen +his father moved from his farm in Pennsylvany, to take up a claim +in Oregon, and the whole family was compelled to cross the plains +to get there; for there wasn't no other way. While they was camped +in the Bitter-Root valley one evening, just 'bout sundown, a party +of Blackfeet surprised the outfit, and massacred all of them but Rube. +They carried him off, kept him as a slave, and, to make sure of him, +cut out his tongue at the roots. But some of the women who wasn't +quite so devilish as their husbands, and who took pity on him, went +to work and cured him of his awful wound. He was used mighty mean +by the bucks of the tribe, and made up his mind to get away from them +or kill himself; for he could not live under their harsh treatment. +After he'd been with them for mor'n a year, the tribe had a terrible +battle with the Sioux, and in the scrimmage Rube stole a pony and +lit out. He rode on night and day until he came across the cabin +of the two trappers I have told you 'bout, and they, of course, +took the poor boy in and cared for him. + +"Rube was a splendid shot with the rifle, and he swore to himself +that he would never leave the prairies and do nothing for the rest +of his life but kill Ingins, who had made him a homeless orphan, +and so mutilated him. + +"After Rube had been with Boyd and Thorpe a year, they was all one +day in the winter examining their traps which was scattered 'long +the stream for miles. After re-baiting them, they concluded to hunt +for meat, which was getting scarce at the cabin; they let Rube go +down to the creek where it widened out lake-like, to fish through +a hole in the ice, and Al and Bill took their rifles and hunted in +the timber for deer. They all got separated of course, Rube being +furtherest away, while Al and Bill did not wander so far from each +other that they could not be heard if one wanted his companion. + +"Al shot a fat black-tail deer, and just as he was going to stoop +down to cut its throat, Bill yelled out to him:-- + +"'Drop everything Al, for God's sake, and let's make for the dugout; +they're coming, a whole band of Sioux!' + +"'If we can get to the cabin,' replied Al, 'we can keep off the whole +nation. I wonder where Rube is? I hope he'll get here and save +his scalp.' + +"At this instant, poor Rube dashed up to them, an Ingin close upon +his tracks; he had unfortunately forgotten to take his rifle with +him when he went to the creek, and now he was at the mercy of the +savage; at least both he and his pursuer so thought. But before +the Ingin had fairly uttered his yell of exultation, Al who with +Bill had held his rifle in readiness for an emergency, lifted the +red devil off his feet, and he fell dead without ever knowing what +had struck him. + +"Rube, thus delivered from a sudden death, ran at the top of his +speed with his two friends for the cabin, for, if they could reach it, +they did not fear a hundred paint-bedaubed savages. + +"Luckily they arrived in time. Where they lived was part dugout and +part cabin. It was about ten feet high, and right back of it was +a big ledge of rock, which made it impossible for any one to get +into it from that side. The place had no door; they did not dare +to put one there when it was built, for they were likely to be +surprised at any moment by a prowling band, so the only entrance was +a square hole in the roof, through which one at a time had to crawl +to enter. + +"The boys got inside all right just as the Ingins came a yelling up. +Bill looked out of a hole in the wall and counted thirty of the +devils, and said at once: 'Off with your coats; don't let them have +anything to catch hold of but our naked bodies if they get in, and +we can handle ourselves better.' + +"'Thirty to three,' said Al. 'Whew! this ain't going to be any +boy's play; we've got to fight for all there is in it, and the +chances are mightily agin us.' + +"Rube he took an axe, and stood right under the hole in the roof, +so that if any of the devils got in he could brain them. In a minute +five rifles cracked; for the Ingins was pretty well armed for them +times, and their bullets rattled agin the logs like hail agin a tent. +Some of 'em was on top the roof by this time, and soon the leader of +the party, a big painted devil, thrust his ugly face into the hole; +but he had hardly got a good look before Bill dropped him by a +well-directed shot and he tumbled in on the floor. + +"'You darned fool,' said Bill, as he saw the effect of his shot; +'did you think we was asleep?' + +"There was one opening that served for air, and a savage, seeing +the boys had forgotten to barricade it, tried to push himself +through, an' not succeeding, tried to back out, but at that instant +Bill caught him by the wrist--Bill was a powerful man--and picking up +a beaver-trap that laid on the floor, actually beat his brains +out with it. + +"While this circus was going on inside, three more of the Ingins got +on the roof and wrenched off a couple of the logs that covered it; +but in a minute they came tumbling down and lay dead on the floor. + +"'That leaves only twenty-five, don't it?' inquired Al, as he mopped +his face with his shirt-sleeve. + +"'Howl, you red devils,' said Bill, as the Ingins commenced their +awful yelling when they saw their comrades fall into the room. +'Don't you know, you blame fools, you've fell in with experienced +hands at the shooting business?' + +"Spat! Something hit Al, and he was the first wounded, but it was +only a scratch, and he kept right on attending to business. + +"'By gosh! look at Rube, will you?' said Al. The dumb boy had in +his grasp the very chief of the band, who had just then discovered +the hole in the roof made by the three Ingins who had passed in +their checks for their impudence, and was trying his best to push +himself down. Rube had made a strike at him with an axe, but the +edge was turned aside, and the savage was getting the better of +the boy; he had grappled Rube by the hair and one arm, and they was +flying 'round like a wild cat and a hound. Bill tried three times +to sink his knife into the old chief, but there was such a cavortin' +in the wrastle between him and the boy, he was afraid to try any more, +for fear it might hit Rube instead. Suddenly the Ingin fell to the +floor as dead as a trapped beaver what's been drowned; Rube had +struck his buckhorn-handled hunting-knife right into the heart of +the brute. + +"'Set him agin the hole in the side of the building,' said Bill; +'he ain't fit for nothing else than to stop a gap'; so Rube set him +agin the hole, and pinned him there with half a dozen knives what +was lying round loose. + +"Just as they had fastened the dead body of the old chief to the +side of the cabin, a perfect shower of bullets came rattling round +like a hailstorm. 'All right, let's have your waste lead,' said Bill. + +"'A few more of these dead Ingins and we can make a regular fort of +this old cabin; we want two for that chunk,' said Al, as he pointed +with his rifle to a large gap on the west side of the wall; but +before he had fairly got the words out of his mouth, two of the +attacking party jumped down into the room. Al, being a regular giant, +as soon as they landed, surprised them by seizing one with each hand +by the throat, and he actually held them at arm's-length till he had +squeezed the very life out of them, and they both fell corpses. + +"While Al was performing his two-Ingin act, a great light burst into +the cabin, and by the time he had choked his enemies to death, he saw, +while the Ingins outside gave a terrible yell of exultation, that +they had fired the place. + +"'Damn 'em,' shouted Bill, as he pitched the corpse of the chief +from the gap where Rube had set him. 'Fellows, we've got to get +out of here right quick; follow me, boys!' + +"Holding their rifles in hand, and clutching a hunting-knife also, +they stepped out into the brush surrounding the place, and started +on a run for the heavy timber on the bank of the creek. + +"They had reckoned onluckily; a wild war-whoop greeted the flying men +as they reached the edge of the forest, and without being able to use +their arms, they were taken prisoners. Bill and Al, fastened with +their backs against each other, and Little Rube by himself, were +bound to separate trees, but not so far apart that they could not +speak to each other, and some of the Ingins began to gather sticks +and pile them around the trees. + +"'What are they going to do with us?' anxiously inquired Bill of Al. + +"'Roast us, you bet,' replied the other. 'They'll find me tough +enough, anyhow.' + +"'It must be a painful death,' soliloquized Bill. + +"'Well, it isn't the most pleasant one, you can gamble on that,' +said Al, turning his looks toward Bill; 'but see what the devils +are doing to poor Rube.' + +"Bill cast his eyes in the direction of the dumb boy, who was fastened +to a small pine, about a hundred feet distant. Standing directly +in front of it was a gigantic Ingin, flourishing his scalping-knife +within an inch of Rube's head, trying to make the boy flinch. +But the young fellow merely scowled at him in a rage, his muscles +never quivering for an instant. + +"While the men were trying to console each other, two of the savages, +who had gone away for a short time, returned, bearing the carcass +of the deer that Al had killed in the morning, and commenced to cut +it up. They had made several small fires, and roasting the meat +before them, began to gorge themselves, Indian fashion, with the +savoury morsels. The men were awfully hungry, too, but not a mouthful +did they get of their own game. + +"The Ingins were more'n an hour feasting, while their prisoners kept +a looking for some help to get 'em out of the scrape they was in. + +"'Bout a mile down the creek, me and six other trappers had a camp, +and that morning, being scarce of meat, we all went a hunting. +We had killed two or three elk and was 'bout going back to camp with +our game, when we heard firing, and supposed it was a party of hunters, +like ourselves, so we did not pay any attention to it at first; but +when it kept up so long, and there was such a constant volley, I told +our boys it might be a scrimmage with a party of red devils, and we +concluded to go and see. + +"We left our elk where they were, and started in the direction of +the shooting, taking mighty good care not to be surprised ourselves. +We crept carefully on, and a little before sundown seen a camp-fire +burning in the timber quite a smart piece ahead of us. We stopped +then, and Ike Pettet and myself crept on cautiously on our hands and +knees through the brush to learn what the fire meant. In a little +while we seen it was an Ingin camp, and we counted twenty-two +warriors seated 'round their fires a eating as unconcernedly as if +we warn't nowhere near 'em. We didn't feel like tackling so many, +so just as we was 'bout to crawl away and leave 'em in ondisturbed +possession of their camp, we heard some parties talking in English. +Then we pricked up our ears and listened mighty interested I tell you. +Looking 'round, we seen the men tied to the trees and the wood piled +against 'em, and then we knowed what was up. We had to be mighty +wary, for if we snapped a twig even, it was all day with us and +the prisoners too; so we dragged ourselves back, and after getting +out of sound of the Ingins, we just got up and lit out mighty lively +for the place we'd left our companions. We met them coming slowly +on 'bout two miles from the Ingin camp, and telling 'em what was up +we started to help the trappers what the devils was agoing to burn. +We wasn't half so long in getting at the camp as Ike and me was +in going, and we soon come within good range for our rifles. + +"The Ingins was still unsuspicious, and we spread ourselves in a +sort of half circle so as to kind o' surround them, and at a signal +I give, seven rifles cracked at once, and as many of the Injins was +dropped right in their tracks; a second volley, for the red devils +had not got their senses yet, tumbled seven more corpses upon the +pile, and then we white men jumped in with our knives and clubbed +rifles, and there was a lively scrimmage for a few minutes. The few +Ingins what wasn't killed fought like devils, but as we was getting +the best of 'em every second they turned tail and ran. + +"We'd heard the firing of the fight at the cabin just in time; and +as we cut the rawhide strings that bound the fellows to the trees, +Ike, who was a right fine shot and had killed three at one time, +said: 'I always like to get two or three of the red devils in a line +before I pull the trigger; it saves lead.' + +"Then we all went back to our camp and made a night of it, feasting +on the elk we had killed, and talking over the wonderful escape of +the boys and Little Rube." + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. +KIT CARSON. + + + +Of the famous men whose lives are so interwoven with the history +of the Old Santa Fe Trail that the story of the great highway is +largely made up of their individual exploits and acts of bravery, +it has been my fortune to have known nearly all intimately, during +more than a third of a century passed on the great plains and in +the Rocky Mountains. + +First of all, Christopher, or Kit, Carson, as he is familiarly known +to the world, stands at the head and front of celebrated frontiersmen, +trappers, scouts, guides, and Indian fighters. + +I knew him well through a series of years, to the date of his death +in 1868, but I shall confine myself to the events of his remarkable +career along the line of the Trail and its immediate environs. +In 1826 a party of Santa Fe traders passing near his father's home +in Howard County, Missouri, young Kit, who was then but seventeen +years old, joined the caravan as hunter. He was already an expert +with the rifle, and thus commenced his life of adventure on the +great plains and in the Rocky Mountains. + +His first exhibition of that nerve and coolness in the presence of +danger which marked his whole life was in this initial trip across +the plains. When the caravan had arrived at the Arkansas River, +somewhere in the vicinity of the great bend of that stream, one of +the teamsters, while carelessly pulling his rifle toward him by the +barrel, discharged the weapon and received the ball in his arm, +completely crushing the bones. The blood from the wound flowed so +copiously that he nearly lost his life before it could be arrested. +He was fixed up, however, and the caravan proceeded on its journey, +the man thinking no more seriously of his injured arm. In a few days, +however, the wound began to indicate that gangrene had set in, and +it was determined that only by an amputation was it possible for him +to live beyond a few days. Every one of the older men of the caravan +positively declined to attempt the operation, as there were no +instruments of any kind. At this juncture Kit, realizing the extreme +necessity of prompt action, stepped forward and offered to do the job. +He told the unfortunate sufferer that he had had no experience in +such matters, but that as no one else would do it, he would take +the chances. All the tools that Kit could find were a razor, a saw, +and the king-bolt of a wagon. He cut the flesh with the razor, +sawed through the bone as if it had been a piece of joist, and seared +the horrible wound with the king-bolt, which he had heated to a +white glow, for the purpose of stopping the flow of blood that +naturally followed such rude surgery. The operation was a complete +success; the man lived many years afterward, and was with his surgeon +in many an expedition. + +In the early days of the commerce of the prairies, Carson was the +hunter at Bent's Fort for a period of eight years. There were about +forty men employed at the place; and when the game was found in +abundance in the mountains, it was a relatively easy task and just +suited to his love of sport, but when it grew scarce, as it often +did, his prowess was tasked to its utmost to keep the forty mouths +from crying for food. He became such an unerring shot with the +rifle during that time that he was called the "Nestor of the Rocky +Mountains." His favourite game was the buffalo, although he killed +countless numbers of other animals. + +All of the plains tribes of Indians, as did the powerful Utes of +the mountains, knew him well; for he had often visited in their +camps, sat in their lodges, smoked the pipe, and played with their +little boys. The latter fact may not appear of much consequence, +but there are no people on earth who have a greater love for their +boy children than the savages of America. The Indians all feared +him, too, at the same time that they respected his excellent judgment, +and frequently were governed by his wise counsel. The following +story will show his power in this direction. The Sioux, one of the +most numerous and warlike tribes at that time, had encroached upon +the hunting-grounds of the southern Indians, and the latter had many +a skirmish with them on the banks of the Arkansas along the line of +the Trail. Carson, who was in the upper valley of the river, was +sent for to come down and help them drive the obnoxious Sioux back +to their own stamping-ground. He left Fort Bent, and went with the +party of Comanche messengers to the main camp of that tribe and the +Arapahoes, with whom they had united. Upon his arrival, he was told +that the Sioux had a thousand warriors and many rifles, and the +Comanches and Arapahoes were afraid of them on account of the great +disparity of numbers, but that if he would go with them on the +war-path, they felt assured they could overcome their enemies. +Carson, however, instead of encouraging the Comanches and Arapahoes +to fight, induced them to negotiate with the Sioux. He was sent +as mediator, and so successfully accomplished his mission that the +intruding tribe consented to leave the hunting-grounds of the +Comanches as soon as the buffalo season was over; which they did, +and there was no more trouble. + +After many adventures in California with Fremont, Carson, with his +inseparable friend, L. B. Maxwell, embarked in the wool-raising +industry. Shortly after they had established themselves on their +ranch, the Apaches made one of their frequent murdering and plundering +raids through Northern New Mexico, killing defenceless women and +children, running off stock of all kinds, and laying waste every +little ranch they came across in their wild foray. Not very far +from the city of Santa Fe, they ruthlessly butchered a Mr. White +and his son, though three of their number were slain by the brave +gentlemen before they were overpowered. Other of the blood-thirsty +savages carried away the women and children of the desolated home +and took them to their mountain retreat in the vicinity of Las Vegas. +Mr. White was a highly respected merchant, and news of this outrage +spreading rapidly through the settlements, it was determined that +the savages should not go without punishment this time, at least. +Carson's reputation as an Indian fighter was at its height, so the +natives of the country sent for him, and declined to move until +he came. For some unexplained reason, after he arrived at Las Vegas, +he was not placed in charge of the posse, that position having +already been given to a Frenchman. Carson, as was usual with him, +never murmured because he was assigned to a subordinate position, +but took his place, ready to do his part in whatever capacity. + +The party set out for the stronghold of the savages, and rode night +and day on the trail of the murderers, hoping to surprise them and +recapture the women and children; but so much time had been wasted +in delays, that Carson feared they would only find the mutilated +bodies of the poor captives. In a few days after leaving Las Vegas, +the retreat of the savages was discovered in the fastness of the +mountains, where they had fortified themselves in such a manner that +they could resist ten times the number of their pursuers. Carson, +as soon as he saw them, without a second's hesitation, and giving +a characteristic yell, dashed in, expecting, of course, that the men +would follow him; but they only stood in gaping wonderment at his +bravery, not daring to venture after him. He did not discover his +dilemma until he had advanced so far alone that escape seemed +impossible. But here his coolness, which always served him in the +moment of supreme danger, saved his scalp. As the savages turned +on him, he threw himself on the off side of his horse, Indian fashion, +for he was as expert in a trick of that kind as the savages themselves, +and rode back to the little command. He had six arrows in his horse +and a bullet through his coat! + +The Indians in those days were poorly armed, and did not long +follow up the pursuit after Carson; for, observing the squad of +mounted Mexicans, they retreated to the top of a rocky prominence, +from which point they could watch every movement of the whites. +Carson was raging at the apathy, not to say cowardice, of the men +who had sent for him to join them, but he kept his counsel to himself; +for he was anxious to save the captured women and children. He talked +to the men very earnestly, however, exhorting them not to flinch +in the duty they had come so far to perform, and for which he had +come at their call. This had the desired effect; for he induced +them to make a charge, which was gallantly performed, and in such +a brave manner that the Indians fled, scarcely making an effort to +defend themselves. Five of their number were killed at the furious +onset of the Mexicans, but unfortunately, as he anticipated, only +the murdered corpses of the women and children were the result of +the victory. + +President Polk appointed Carson to a second lieutenancy,[48] and his +first official duty was conducting fifty soldiers under his command +through the country of the Comanches, who were then at war with the +whites. A fight occurred at a place known as Point of Rocks,[49] +where on arriving, Carson found a company of volunteers for the +Mexican War, and camped near them. About dawn the next morning, +all the animals of the volunteers were captured by a band of Indians, +while the herders were conducting them to the river-bottom to graze. +The herders had no weapons, and luckily, in the confusion attending +the bold theft, ran into Carson's camp; and as he, with his men, +were ready with their rifles, they recaptured the oxen, but the +horses were successfully driven off by their captors. + +Several of the savages were mortally wounded by Carson's prompt +charge, as signs after they had cleared out proved; but the Indian +custom of tying the wounded on their ponies precluded the chance of +taking any scalps. The wily Comanche, like the Arab of the desert, +is generally successful in his sudden assaults, but Carson, who was +never surprised, was always equal to his tactics. + +One of the two soldiers whose turn it had been to stand guard that +morning was discovered to have been asleep when the alarm of Indians +was given, and Carson at once administered the Indian method of +punishment, making the man wear the dress of a squaw for that day. +Then going on, he arrived at Santa Fe, where he turned over his +little command. + +While there, he heard that a gang of those desperadoes so frequently +the nuisance of a new country had formed a conspiracy to murder and +rob two wealthy citizens whom they had volunteered to accompany over +the Trail to the States. The caravan was already many miles on its +way when Carson was informed of the plot. In less than an hour he +had hired sixteen picked men and was on his march to intercept them. +He took a short cut across the mountains, taking especial care to +keep out of the way of the Indians, who were on the war-path, but +as to whose movements he was always posted. In two days he came +upon a camp of United States recruits, en route to the military +posts in New Mexico, whose commander offered to accompany him with +twenty men. Carson accepted the generous proposal, by forced marches +soon overtook the caravan of traders, and at once placed one Fox, +the leader of the gang, in irons, after which he informed the owners +of the caravan of the escape they had made from the wretches whom +they were treating so kindly. At first the gentlemen were astounded +at the disclosures made to them, but soon admitted that they had +noticed many things which convinced them that the plot really existed, +and but for the opportune arrival of the brave frontiersman it would +shortly have been carried out. + +The members of the caravan who were perfectly trustworthy were then +ordered to corral the rest of the conspirators, thirty-five in number, +and they were driven out of camp, with the exception of Fox, the +leader, whom Carson conveyed to Taos. He was imprisoned for several +months, but as a crime in intent only could be proved against him, +and as the adobe walls of the house where he was confined were not +secure enough to retain a man who desired to release himself, he was +finally liberated, and cleared out. + +The traders were profuse in their thanks to Carson for his timely +interference, but he refused every offer of remuneration. On their +return to Santa Fe from St. Louis, however, they presented him with +a magnificent pair of pistols, upon whose silver mounting was an +inscription commemorating his brave deed and the gratitude of the +donors. + +The following summer was spent in a visit to St. Louis, and early +in the fall he returned over the Trail, arriving at the Cheyenne +village on the Upper Arkansas without meeting with any incident +worthy of note. On reaching that point, he learned that the Indians +had received a terrible affront from an officer commanding a detachment +of United States troops, who had whipped one of their chiefs; and +that consequently the whole tribe was enraged, and burning for revenge +upon the whites. Carson was the first white man to approach the +place since the insult, and so many years had elapsed since he was +the hunter at Bent's Fort, and so grievously had the Indians been +offended, that his name no longer guaranteed safety to the party +with whom he was travelling, nor even insured respect to himself, +in the state of excitement existing in the village. Carson, however, +deliberately pushed himself into the presence of a war council which +was just then in session to consider the question of attacking the +caravan, giving orders to his men to keep close together, and guard +against a surprise. + +The savages, supposing that he could not understand their language, +talked without restraint, and unfolded their plans to capture his +party and kill them all, particularly the leader. After they had +reached this decision, Carson coolly rose and addressed the council +in the Cheyenne language, informing the Indians who he was, of his +former associations with and kindness to their tribe, and that now +he was ready to render them any assistance they might require; but +as to their taking his scalp, he claimed the right to say a word. + +The Indians departed, and Carson went on his way; but there were +hundreds of savages in sight on the sand hills, and, though they +made no attack, he was well aware that he was in their power, nor +had they abandoned the idea of capturing his train. His coolness +and deliberation kept his men in spirit, and yet out of the whole +fifteen, which was the total number of his force, there were only two +or three on whom he could place any reliance in case of an emergency. + +When the train camped for the night, the wagons were corralled, and +the men and mules all brought inside the circle. Grass was cut with +sheath-knives and fed to the animals, instead of their being picketed +out as usual, and as large a guard as possible detailed. When the +camp had settled down to perfect quiet, Carson crawled outside it, +taking with him a Mexican boy, and after explaining to him the danger +which threatened them all, told him that it was in his power to save +the lives of the company. Then he sent him on alone to Rayedo, +a journey of nearly three hundred miles, to ask for an escort of +United States troops to be sent out to meet the train, impressing +upon the brave little Mexican the importance of putting a good many +miles between himself and the camp before morning. And so he started +him, with a few rations of food, without letting the rest of his +party know that such measures were necessary. The boy had been in +Carson's service for some time, and was known to him as a faithful +and active messenger, and in a wild country like New Mexico, with +the outdoor life and habits of its people, such a journey was not +an unusual occurrence. + +Carson now returned to the camp, to watch all night himself, and +at daybreak all were on the Trail again. No Indians made their +appearance until nearly noon, when five warriors came galloping up +toward the train. As soon as they came close enough to hear his +voice, Carson ordered them to halt, and going up to them, told how +he had sent a messenger to Rayedo the night before to inform the +troops that their tribe were annoying him, and that if he or his men +were molested, terrible punishment would be inflicted by those who +would surely come to his relief. The savages replied that they +would look for the moccasin tracks, which they undoubtedly found, +and the whole village passed away toward the hills after a little +while, evidently seeking a place of safety from an expected attack +by the troops. + +The young Mexican overtook the detachment of soldiers whose officer +had caused all the trouble with the Indians, to whom he told his +story; but failing to secure any sympathy, he continued his journey +to Rayedo, and procured from the garrison of that place immediate +assistance. Major Grier, commanding the post, at once despatched +a troop of his regiment, which, by forced marches, met Carson +twenty-five miles below Bent's Fort, and though it encountered no +Indians, the rapid movement had a good effect upon the savages, +impressing them with the power and promptness of the government. + +Early in the spring of 1865, Carson was ordered, with three companies, +to put a stop to the depredations of marauding bands of Cheyennes, +Kiowas, and Comanches upon the caravans and emigrant outfits travelling +the Santa Fe Trail. He left Fort Union with his command and marched +over the Dry or Cimarron route to the Arkansas River, for the purpose +of establishing a fortified camp at Cedar Bluffs, or Cold Spring, +to afford a refuge for the freight trains on that dangerous part of +the Trail. The Indians had for some time been harassing not only +the caravans of the citizen traders, but also those of the government, +which carried supplies to the several military posts in the Territory +of New Mexico. An expedition was therefore planned by Carson to +punish them, and he soon found an opportunity to strike a blow near +the adobe fort on the Canadian River. His force consisted of the +First Regiment of New Mexican Volunteer Cavalry and seventy-five +friendly Indians, his entire command numbering fourteen commissioned +officers and three hundred and ninety-six enlisted men. With these +he attacked the Kiowa village, consisting of about one hundred and +fifty lodges. The fight was a very severe one, and lasted from +half-past eight in the morning until after sundown. The savages, +with more than ordinary intrepidity and boldness, made repeated +stands against the fierce onslaughts of Carson's cavalrymen, but +were at last forced to give way, and were cut down as they stubbornly +retreated, suffering a loss of sixty killed and wounded. In this +battle only two privates and one noncommissioned officer were killed, +and one non-commissioned officer and thirteen privates, four of whom +were friendly Indians, wounded. The command destroyed one hundred +and fifty lodges, a large amount of dried meats, berries, buffalo-robes, +cooking utensils, and also a buggy and spring-wagon, the property +of Sierrito,[50] the Kiowa chief. + +In his official account of the fight, Carson states that he found +ammunition in the village, which had been furnished, no doubt, by +unscrupulous Mexican traders. + +He told me that he never was deceived by Indian tactics but once +in his life. He said that he was hunting with six others after +buffalo, in the summer of 1835; that they had been successful, and +came into their little bivouac one night very tired, intending to +start for the rendezvous at Bent's Fort the next morning. They had +a number of dogs, among them some excellent animals. These barked +a good deal, and seemed restless, and the men heard wolves. + +"I saw," said Kit, "two big wolves sneaking about, one of them quite +close to us. Gordon, one of my men, wanted to fire his rifle at it, +but I did not let him, for fear he would hit a dog. I admit that +I had a sort of an idea that those wolves might be Indians; but when +I noticed one of them turn short around, and heard the clashing of +his teeth as he rushed at one of the dogs, I felt easy then, and was +certain that they were wolves sure enough. But the red devil fooled +me, after all, for he had two dried buffalo bones in his hands under +the wolfskin, and he rattled them together every time he turned to +make a dash at the dogs! Well, by and by we all dozed off, and it +wasn't long before I was suddenly aroused by a noise and a big blaze. +I rushed out the first thing for our mules, and held them. If the +savages had been at all smart, they could have killed us in a trice, +but they ran as soon as they fired at us. They killed one of my men, +putting five bullets in his body and eight in his buffalo-robe. +The Indians were a band of Sioux on the war-trail after a band of +Snakes, and found us by sheer accident. They endeavoured to ambush +us the next morning, but we got wind of their little game and killed +three of them, including the chief." + +Carson's nature was made up of some very noble attributes. He was +brave, but not reckless like Custer; a veritable exponent of Christian +altruism, and as true to his friends as the needle to the pole. +Under the average stature, and rather delicate-looking in his physical +proportions, he was nevertheless a quick, wiry man, with nerves of +steel, and possessing an indomitable will. He was full of caution, +but showed a coolness in the moment of supreme danger that was good +to witness. + +During a short visit at Fort Lyon, Colorado, where a favourite son +of his was living, early in the morning of May 23, 1868, while +mounting his horse in front of his quarters (he was still fond of +riding), an artery in his neck was suddenly ruptured, from the effects +of which, notwithstanding the medical assistance rendered by the +fort surgeons, he died in a few moments. + +His remains, after reposing for some time at Fort Lyon, were taken +to Taos, so long his home in New Mexico, where an appropriate monument +was erected over them. In the Plaza at Santa Fe, his name also +appears cut on a cenotaph raised to commemorate the services of the +soldiers of the Territory. As an Indian fighter he was matchless. +The identical rifle used by him for more than thirty-five years, +and which never failed him, he bequeathed, just before his death, +to Montezuma Lodge, A. F. & A. M., Santa Fe, of which he was a member. + +James Bridger, "Major Bridger," or "Old Jim Bridger," as we was called, +another of the famous coterie of pioneer frontiersmen, was born in +Washington, District of Columbia, in 1807. When very young, a mere +boy in fact, he joined the great trapping expedition under the +leadership of James Ashley, and with it travelled to the far West, +remote from the extreme limit of border civilization, where he became +the compeer and comrade of Carson, and certainly the foremost +mountaineer, strictly speaking, the United States has produced. + +Having left behind him all possibilities of education at such an +early age, he was illiterate in his speech and as ignorant of the +conventionalities of polite society as an Indian; but he possessed +a heart overflowing with the milk of human kindness, was generous +in the extreme, and honest and true as daylight. + +He was especially distinguished for the discovery of a defile through +the intricate mazes of the Rocky Mountains, which bears his name, +Bridger's Pass. He rendered important services as guide and scout +during the early preliminary surveys for a transcontinental railroad, +and for a series of years was in the employ of the government, +in the old regular army on the great plains and in the mountains, +long before the breaking out of the Civil War. To Bridger also +belongs the honour of having seen, first of all white men, the Great +Salt Lake of Utah, in the winter of 1824-25. + +After a series of adventures, hairbreadth escapes, and terrible +encounters with the Indians, in 1856 he purchased a farm near Westport, +Missouri; but soon left it in his hunger for the mountains, to return +to it only when worn-out and blind, to be buried there without even +the rudest tablet to mark the spot. + +"I would rather sleep in the southern corner of a little country +churchyard, than in the tomb of the Capulets." This quotation came +to my mind one Sunday morning two or three years ago, as I mused +over Bridger's neglected grave among the low hills beyond the quaint +old town of Westport. I thought I knew, as I stood there, that he +whose bones were mouldering beneath the blossoming clover at my feet, +would have wished for his last couch a more perfect solitude and +isolation from the wearisome world's busy sound than even the +immortal Burke. + +The grassy mound, over which there was no stone to record the name +of its occupant, covered the remains of the last of his class, a type +vanished forever, for the border is a thing of the past; and upon +the gentle breeze of that delightful morning, like the droning of +bees in a full flowered orchard, was wafted to my ears the hum of +Kansas City's civilization, only three or four miles distant, in all +of which I was sure there was nothing that would have been congenial +to the old frontiersman. + +At one time early in the '60's, while the engineers of the proposed +Union Pacific Railway were temporarily in Denver, then an insignificant +mushroom-hamlet, they became somewhat confused as to the most +practicable point in the range over which to run their line. After +debating the question, they determined, upon a suggestion from some +of the old settlers, to send for Jim Bridger, who was then visiting +in St. Louis. A pass, via the overland stage, was enclosed in a +letter to him, and he was urged to start for Denver at once, though +nothing of the business for which his presence was required was told +him in the text. + +In about two weeks the old man arrived, and the next morning, after +he had rested, asked why he had been sent for from such a distance. + +The engineers then began to explain their dilemma. The old mountaineer +waited patiently until they had finished, when, with a look of disgust +on his withered countenance, he demanded a large piece of paper, +remarking at the same time,-- + +"I could a told you fellers all that in St. Louis, and saved you +the expense of bringing me out here." + +He was handed a sheet of manilla paper, used for drawing the details +of bridge plans. The veteran pathfinder spread it on the ground +before him, took a dead coal from the ashes of the fire, drew a rough +outline map, and pointing to a certain peak just visible on the +serrated horizon, said,-- + +"There's where you fellers can cross with your road, and nowhere else, +without more diggin' an' cuttin' than you think of." + +That crude map is preserved, I have been told, in the archives of +the great corporation, and its line crosses the main spurs of the +Rocky Mountains, just where Bridger said it could with the least work. + +The resemblance of old John Smith, another of the coterie, to +President Andrew Johnson was absolutely astonishing. When that +chief magistrate, in his "swinging around the circle," had arrived +at St. Louis, and was riding through the streets of that city in an +open barouche, he was pointed out to Bridger, who happened to be +there. But the venerable guide and scout, with supreme disgust +depicted on his countenance at the idea of any one attempting to +deceive him, said to his informant,-- + +"H---l! Bill, you can't fool me! That's old John Smith." + +At one time many years ago, during Bridger's first visit to St. Louis, +then a relatively small place, a friend accidentally came across him +sitting on a dry-goods box in one of the narrow streets, evidently +disgusted with his situation. To the inquiry as to what he was doing +there all alone, the old man replied,-- + +"I've been settin' in this infernal canyon ever sence mornin', waitin' +for some one to come along an' invite me to take a drink. Hundreds +of fellers has passed both ways, but none of 'em has opened his head. +I never seen sich a onsociable crowd!" + +Bridger had a fund of most remarkable stories, which he had drawn +upon so often that he really believed them to be true. + +General Gatlin,[51] who was graduated from West Point in the early +'30's, and commanded Fort Gibson in the Cherokee Nation over sixty +years ago, told me that he remembered Bridger very well; and had +once asked the old guide whether he had ever been in the great canyon +of the Colorado River. + +"Yes, sir," replied the mountaineer, "I have, many a time. There's +where the oranges and lemons bear all the time, and the only place +I was ever at where the moon's always full!" + +He told me and also many others, at various times, that in the winter +of 1830 it began to snow in the valley of the Great Salt Lake, and +continued for seventy days without cessation. The whole country was +covered to a depth of seventy feet, and all the vast herds of buffalo +were caught in the storm and died, but their carcasses were perfectly +preserved. + +"When spring came, all I had to do," declared he, "was to tumble 'em +into Salt Lake, an' I had pickled buffalo enough for myself and the +whole Ute Nation for years!" + +He said that on account of that terrible storm, which annihilated +them, there have been no buffalo in that region since. + +Bridger had been the guide, interpreter, and companion of that +distinguished Irish sportsman, Sir George Gore, whose strange tastes +led him in 1855 to abandon life in Europe and bury himself for over +two years among the savages in the wildest and most unfrequented +glens of the Rocky Mountains. + +The outfit and adventures of this titled Nimrod, conducted as they +were on the largest scale, exceeded anything of the kind ever before +seen on this continent, and the results of his wanderings will +compare favourably with those of Gordon Cumming in Africa. + +Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of his outfit when it is +stated that his retinue consisted of about fifty individuals, +including secretaries, steward, cooks, fly-makers, dog-tenders, +servants, etc. He was borne over the country with a train of thirty +wagons, besides numerous saddle-horses and dogs. + +During his lengthened hunt he killed the enormous aggregate of forty +grizzly bears and twenty-five hundred buffalo, besides numerous +antelope and other small game. + +Bridger said of Sir George that he was a bold, dashing, and successful +hunter, and an agreeable gentleman. His habit was to lie in bed until +about ten or eleven o'clock in the morning, then he took a bath, +ate his breakfast, and set out, generally alone, for the day's hunt, +and it was not unusual for him to remain out until ten at night, +seldom returning to the tents without augmenting the catalogue of +his beasts. His dinner was then served, to which he generally +extended an invitation to Bridger, and after the meal was over, and +a few glasses of wine had been drunk, he was in the habit of reading +from some book, and eliciting from Bridger his comments thereon. +His favourite author was Shakespeare, which Bridger "reckin'd was +too highfalutin" for him; moreover he remarked, "thet he rather +calcerlated that thar big Dutchman, Mr. Full-stuff, was a leetle +too fond of lager beer," and thought it would have been better for +the old man if he had "stuck to Bourbon whiskey straight." + +Bridger seemed very much interested in the adventures of Baron +Munchausen, but admitted after Sir George had finished reading them, +that "he be dog'oned ef he swallered everything that thar Baron +Munchausen said," and thought he was "a darned liar," yet he +acknowledged that some of his own adventures among the Blackfeet +woul be equally marvellous "if writ down in a book." + +A man whose one act had made him awe-inspiring was Belzy Dodd. +Uncle Dick Wooton, in relating the story, says: "I don't know what +his first name was, but Belzy was what we called him. His head was +as bald as a billiard ball, and he wore a wig. One day while we +were all at Bent's Fort, while there were a great number of Indians +about, Belzy concluded to have a bit of fun. He walked around, eying +the Indians fiercely for some time, and finally, dashing in among +them, he gave a series of war-whoops which discounted a Comanche yell, +and pulling off his wig, threw it down at the feet of the astonished +and terror-stricken red men. + +"The savages thought the fellow had jerked off his own scalp, and not +one of them wanted to stay and see what would happen next. They left +the fort, running like so many scared jack-rabbits, and after that +none of them could be induced to approach anywhere near Dodd." + +They called him "The-white-man-who-scalps-himself," and Uncle Dick +said that he believed he could have travelled across the plains alone +with perfect safety. + +Jim Baker was another noted mountaineer and hunter of the same era as +Carson, Bridger, Wooton, Hobbs, and many others. Next to Kit Carson, +Baker was General Fremont's most valued scout. + +He was born in Illinois, and lived at home until he was eighteen +years of age, when he enlisted in the service of the American Fur +Company, went immediately to the Rocky Mountains, and remained there +until his death. He married a wife according to the Indian custom, +from the Snake tribe, living with her relatives many years and +cultivating many of their habits, ideas, and superstitions. He firmly +believed in the efficacy of the charms and incantations of the +medicine men in curing diseases, divining where their enemy was to +be found, forecasting the result of war expeditions, and other such +ridiculous matters. Unfortunately, too, Baker would sometimes take +a little more whiskey than he could conveniently carry, and often +made a fool of himself, but he was a generous, noble-hearted fellow, +who would risk his life for a friend at any time, or divide his last +morsel of food. + +Like mountaineers generally, Baker was liberal to a fault, and +eminently improvident. He made a fortune by his work, but at the +annual rendezvous of the traders, at Bent's Fort or the old Pueblo, +would throw away the earnings of months in a few days' jollification. + +He told General Marcy, who was a warm friend of his, that after one +season in which he had been unusually successful in accumulating a +large amount of valuable furs, from the sale of which he had realized +the handsome sum of nine thousand dollars, he resolved to abandon his +mountain life, return to the settlements, buy a farm, and live +comfortably during the remainder of his days. He accordingly made +ready to leave, and was on the eve of starting when a friend invited +him to visit a monte-bank which had been organized at the rendezvous. +He was easily led away, determined to take a little social amusement +with his old comrade, whom he might never see again, and followed him; +the result of which was that the whiskey circulated freely, and the +next morning found Baker without a cent of money; he had lost +everything. His entire plans were thus frustrated, and he returned +to the mountains, hunting with the Indians until he died. + +Jim Baker's opinions of the wild Indians of the great plains and +the mountains were very decided: "That they are the most onsartinist +varmints in all creation, an' I reckon thar not more'n half human; +for you never seed a human, arter you'd fed an' treated him to the +best fixin's in your lodge, jis turn round and steal all your horses, +or ary other thing he could lay his hands on. No, not adzactly. +He would feel kind o' grateful, and ask you to spread a blanket in +his lodge ef you ever came his way. But the Injin don't care shucks +for you, and is ready to do you a lot of mischief as soon as he quits +your feed. No, Cap.," he said to Marcy when relating this, "it's not +the right way to make 'em gifts to buy a peace; but ef I war gov'nor +of these United States, I'll tell what I'd do. I'd invite 'em all +to a big feast, and make 'em think I wanted to have a talk; and as +soon as I got 'em together, I'd light in and raise the har of half +of 'em, and then t'other half would be mighty glad to make terms +that would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with the dog'oned +red-bellied varmints; and as sure as you're born, Cap., that's the +only way." + +The general, when he first met Baker, inquired of him if he had +travelled much over the settlements of the United States before he +came to the mountains; to which he said: "Right smart, right smart, +Cap." He then asked whether he had visited New York or New Orleans. +"No, I hasn't, Cap., but I'll tell you whar I have been. I've been +mighty nigh all over four counties in the State of Illinois!" + +He was very fond of his squaw and children, and usually treated +them kindly; only when he was in liquor did he at all maltreat them. + +Once he came over into New Mexico, where General Marcy was stationed +at the time, and determined that for the time being he would cast +aside his leggings, moccasins, and other mountain dress, and wear +a civilized wardrobe. Accordingly, he fitted himself out with one. +When Marcy met him shortly after he had donned the strange clothes, +he had undergone such an entire change that the general remarked +he should hardly have known him. He did not take kindly to this, +and said: "Consarn these store butes, Cap.; they choke my feet like +h---l." It was the first time in twenty years that he had worn +anything on his feet but moccasins, and they were not ready for the +torture inflicted by breaking in a new pair of absurdly fitting +boots. He soon threw them away, and resumed the softer foot-gear +of the mountains. + +Baker was a famous bear hunter, and had been at the death of many +a grizzly. On one occasion he was setting his traps with a comrade +on the head waters of the Arkansas, when they suddenly met two young +grizzly bears about the size of full-grown dogs. Baker remarked +to his friend that if they could "light in and kill the varmints" +with their knives, it would be a big thing to boast of. They both +accordingly laid aside their rifles and "lit in," Baker attacking +one and his comrade the other. The bears immediately raised +themselves on their haunches, and were ready for the encounter. +Baker ran around, endeavouring to get in a blow from behind with his +long knife; but the young brute he had tackled was too quick for +him, and turned as he went around so as always to confront him +face to face. He knew if he came within reach of his claws, that +although young, he could inflict a formidable wound; moreover, he was +in fear that the howls of the cubs would bring the infuriated mother +to their rescue, when the hunters' chances of getting away would +be slim. These thoughts floated hurriedly through his mind, and +made him desirous to end the fight as soon as he could. He made +many vicious lunges at the bear, but the animal invariably warded +them off with his strong fore legs like a boxer. This kind of +tactics, however, cost the lively beast several severe cuts on his +shoulders, which made him the more furious. At length he took the +offensive, and with his month frothing with rage, bounded toward +Baker, who caught and wrestled with him, succeeding in giving him +a death-wound under the ribs. + +While all this was going on, his comrade had been furiously engaged +with the other bear, and by this time had become greatly exhausted, +with the odds decidedly against him. He entreated Baker to come to +his assistance at once, which he did; but much to his astonishment, +as soon as he entered the second contest his comrade ran off, leaving +him to fight the battle alone. He was, however, again victorious, +and soon had the satisfaction of seeing his two antagonists stretched +out in front of him, but as he expressed it, "I made my mind up I'd +never fight nary nother grizzly without a good shootin'-iron in my paws." + +He established a little store at the crossing of Green River, and +had for some time been doing a fair business in trafficking with +the emigrants and trading with the Indians; but shortly a Frenchman +came to the same locality and set up a rival establishment, which, +of course, divided the limited trade, and naturally reduced the +income of Baker's business. + +This engendered a bitter feeling of hostility, which soon culminated +in a cessation of all social intercourse between the two men. About +this time General Marcy arrived there on his way to California, and +he describes the situation of affairs thus:-- + +"I found Baker standing in his door, with a revolver loaded and +cocked in each hand, very drunk and immensely excited. I dismounted +and asked him the cause of all this disturbance. He answered: 'That +thar yaller-bellied, toad-eatin' Parly Voo, over thar, an' me, we've +been havin' a small chance of a scrimmage to-day. The sneakin' +pole-cat, I'll raise his har yet, ef he don't quit these diggins'!' + +"It seems that they had an altercation in the morning, which ended +in a challenge, when they ran to their cabins, seized their revolvers, +and from the doors, which were only about a hundred yards from each +other, fired. Then they retired to their cabins, took a drink of +whiskey, reloaded their revolvers, and again renewed the combat. +This strange duel had been going on for several hours when I arrived, +but, fortunately for them, the whiskey had such an effect on their +nerves that their aim was very unsteady, and none of the shots had +as yet taken effect. + +"I took away Baker's revolvers, telling him how ashamed I was to +find a man of his usually good sense making such a fool of himself. +He gave in quietly, saying that he knew I was his friend, but did not +think I would wish to have him take insults from a cowardly Frenchman. + +"The following morning at daylight Jim called at my tent to bid me +good-by, and seemed very sorry for what had occurred the day before. +He stated that this was the first time since his return from +New Mexico that he had allowed himself to drink whiskey, and when +the whiskey was in him he had 'nary sense.'" + +Among the many men who have distinguished themselves as mountaineers, +traders, and Indian fighters along the line of the Old Trail, was +one who eventually became the head chief of one of the most numerous +and valorous tribes of North American savages--James P. Beckwourth. +Estimates of him vary considerably. Francis Parkman, the historian, +who I think never saw him and writes merely from hearsay, says: +"He is a ruffian of the worst class; bloody and treacherous, without +honor or honesty; such, at least, is the character he bears on the +great plains. Yet in his case the standard rules of character fail; +for though he will stab a man in his slumber, he will also do the +most desperate and daring acts." + +I never saw Beckwourth, but I have heard of him from those of my +mountaineer friends who knew him intimately; I think that he died +long before Parkman made his tour to the Rocky Mountains. Colonel +Boone, the Bents, Carson, Maxwell, and others ascribed to him no +such traits as those given by Parkman, and as to his honesty, it is +an unquestioned fact that Beckwourth was the most honest trader +among the Indians of all who were then engaged in the business. +As Kit Carson and Colonel Boone were the only Indian agents whom +I ever knew or heard of that dealt honestly with the various tribes, +as they were always ready to acknowledge, and the withdrawal of the +former by the government was the cause of a great war, so also +Beckwourth was an honest Indian trader. + +He was a born leader of men, and was known from the Yellowstone to +the Rio Grande, from Santa Fe to Independence, and in St. Louis. +From the latter town he ran away when a boy with a party of trappers, +and himself became one of the most successful of that hardy class. +The woman who bore him had played in her childhood beneath the palm +trees of Africa; his father was a native of France, and went to the +banks of the wild Mississippi of his own free will, but probably +also from reasons of political interest to his government. + +In person Beckwourth was of medium height and great muscular power, +quick of apprehension, and with courage of the highest order. +Probably no man ever met with more personal adventures involving +danger to life, even among the mountaineers and trappers who early +in the century faced the perils of the remote frontier. From his +neck he always wore suspended a perforated bullet, with a large +oblong bead on each side of it, tied in place by a single thread +of sinew. This amulet he obtained while chief of the Crows,[52] +and it was his "medicine," with which he excited the superstition +of his warriors. + +His success as a trader among the various tribes of Indians has +never been surpassed; for his close intimacy with them made him +know what would best please their taste, and they bought of him +when other traders stood idly at their stockades, waiting almost +hopelessly for customers. + +But Beckwourth himself said: "The traffic in whiskey for Indian +property was one of the most infernal practices ever entered into by +man. Let the most casual thinker sit down and figure up the profits +on a forty-gallon cask of alcohol, and he will be thunderstruck, or +rather whiskey-struck. When it was to be disposed of, four gallons +of water were added to each gallon of alcohol. In two hundred gallons +there are sixteen hundred pints, for each one of which the trader +got a buffalo-robe worth five dollars. The Indian women toiled many +long weeks to dress those sixteen hundred robes. The white traders +got them for worse than nothing; for the poor Indian mother hid +herself and her children until the effect of the poison passed away +from the husband and father, who loved them when he had no whiskey, +and abused and killed them when he had. Six thousand dollars for +sixty gallons of alcohol! Is it a wonder with such profits that +men got rich who were engaged in the fur trade? Or was it a miracle +that the buffalo were gradually exterminated?--killed with so little +remorse that the hides, among the Indians themselves, were known +by the appellation of 'A pint of whiskey.'" + +Beckwourth claims to have established the Pueblo where the beautiful +city of Pueblo, Colorado, is now situated. He says: "On the 1st +of October, 1842, on the Upper Arkansas, I erected a trading-post +and opened a successful business. In a very short time I was joined +by from fifteen to twenty free trappers, with their families. +We all united our labour and constructed an adobe fort sixty yards +square. By the following spring it had grown into quite a little +settlement, and we gave it the name of Pueblo." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. +UNCLE DICK WOOTON. + + + +Immediately after Kit Carson, the second wreath of pioneer laurels, +for bravery and prowess as an Indian fighter, and trapper, must be +conceded to Richens Lacy Wooton, known first as "Dick," in his +younger days on the plains, then, when age had overtaken him, +as "Uncle Dick." + +Born in Virginia, his father, when he was but seven years of age, +removed with his family to Kentucky, where he cultivated a tobacco +plantation. Like his predecessor and lifelong friend Carson, +young Wooton tired of the monotony of farming, and in the summer +of 1836 made a trip to the busy frontier town of Independence, +Missouri, where he found a caravan belonging to Colonel St. Vrain +and the Bents, already loaded, and ready to pull out for the fort +built by the latter, and named for them. + +Wooton had a fair business education, and was superior in this +respect to his companions in the caravan to which he had attached +himself. It was by those rough, but kind-hearted, men that he was +called "Dick," as they could not readily master the more complicated +name of "Richens." + +When he started from Independence on his initial trip across the +plains, he was only nineteen, but, like all Kentuckians, perfectly +familiar with a rifle, and could shoot out a squirrel's eye with +the certainty which long practice and hardened nerves assures. + +The caravan, in which he was employed as a teamster, was composed +of only seven wagons; but a larger one, in which were more than fifty, +had preceded it, and as that was heavily laden, and the smaller one +only lightly, it was intended to overtake the former before the +dangerous portions of the Trail were reached, which it did in a few +days and was assigned a place in the long line. + +Every man had to take his turn in standing guard, and the first night +that it fell to young Wooton was at Little Cow Creek, in the Upper +Arkansas valley. Nothing had occurred thus far during the trip +to imperil the safety of the caravan, nor was any attack by the +savages looked for. + +Wooton's post comprehended the whole length of one side of the corral, +and his instructions were to shoot anything he saw moving outside +of the line of mules farthest from the wagons. The young sentry +was very vigilant. He did not feel at all sleepy, but eagerly +watched for something that might possibly come within the prescribed +distance, though not really expecting such a contingency. + +About two o'clock he heard a slight noise, and saw something moving +about, sixty or seventy yards from where he was lying on the ground, +to which he had dropped the moment the strange sound reached his ears. +Of course, his first thoughts were of Indians, and the more he peered +through the darkness at the slowly moving object, the more convinced +he was that it must be a blood-thirsty savage. + +He rose to his feet and blazed away, the shot rousing everbody, and +all came rushing with their guns to learn what the matter was. + +Wooton told the wagon-master that he had seen what he supposed was +an Indian trying to slip up to the mules, and that he had killed him. +Some of the men crept very circumspectly to the spot where the +supposed dead savage was lying, while young Wooton remained at his +post eagerly waiting for their report. Presently he heard a voice +cry out: "I'll be d---d ef he hain't killed 'Old Jack!'" + +"Old Jack" was one of the lead mules of one of the wagons. He had +torn up his picket-pin and strayed outside of the lines, with the +result that the faithful brute met his death at the hands of the +sentry. Wooton declared that he was not to be blamed; for the animal +had disobeyed orders, while he had strictly observed them![53] + +At Pawnee Fork, a few days later, the caravan had a genuine tussle +with the Comanches. It was a bright moonlight night, and about two +hundred of the mounted savages attacked them. It was a rare thing +for Indians to begin a raid after dark, but they swept down on the +unsuspecting teamsters, yelling like a host of demons. They were +armed with bows and arrows generally, though a few of them had +fusees.[54] They received a warm greeting, although they were not +expected, the guard noticing the savages in time to prevent a stampede +of the animals, which evidently was the sole purpose for which they +came, as they did not attempt to break through the corral to get at +the wagons. It was the mules they were after. They charged among +the men, vainly endeavouring to frighten the animals and make them +break loose, discharging showers of arrows as they rode by. The camp +was too hot for them, however, defended as it was by old teamsters +who had made the dangerous passage of the plains many times before, +and were up to all the Indian tactics. They failed to get a single +mule, but paid for their temerity by leaving three of their party +dead, just where they had been tumbled off their horses, not even +having time to carry the bodies off, as they usually do. + +Wooton passed some time during the early days of his career at +Bent's Fort, in 1836-37. He was a great favourite with both of +the proprietors, and with them went to the several Indian villages, +where he learned the art of trading with the savages. + +The winters of the years mentioned were noted for the incursions +of the Pawnees into the region of the fort. They always pretended +friendship for the whites, when any of them were inside of its sacred +precincts, but their whole manner changed when they by some stroke +of fortune caught a trapper or hunter alone on the prairie or in +the foot-hills; he was a dead man sure, and his scalp was soon +dangling at the belt of his cowardly assassins. Hardly a day passed +without witnessing some poor fellow running for the fort with a band +of the red devils after him; frequently he escaped the keen edge of +their scalping-knife, but every once in a while a man was killed. +At one time, two herders who were with their animals within fifty +yards of the fort, going out to the grazing ground, were killed and +every hoof of stock run off. + +A party from the fort, comprising only eight men, among whom was +young Wooton, made up for lost time with the Indians, at the crossing +of Pawnee Fork, the same place where he had had his first fight. +The men had set out from the fort for the purpose of meeting a small +caravan of wagons from the East, loaded with supplies for the Bents' +trading post. It happened that a band of sixteen Pawnees were +watching for the arrival of the train, too.[55] Wooton's party were +well mounted, while the Pawnees were on foot, and although the savages +were two to one, the advantage was decidedly in favour of the whites. + +The Indians were armed with bows and arrows only, and while it was +an easy matter for the whites to keep out of the way of the shower +of missiles which the Indians commenced to hurl at them, the latter +became an easy prey to the unerring rifles of their assailants, +who killed thirteen out of the sixteen in a very short time. +The remaining three took French leave of their comrades at the +beginning of the conflict, and abandoning their arms rushed up to +the caravan, which was just appearing over a small divide, and gave +themselves up. The Indian custom was observed in their case,[56] +although it was rarely that any prisoners were taken in these +conflicts on the Trail. Another curious custom was also followed.[57] +When the party encamped they were well fed, and the next morning +supplied with rations enough to last them until they could reach one +of their villages, and sent off to tell their head chief what had +become of the rest of his warriors. + +Wooton had an adventure once while he was stationed at Bent's Fort +during a trading expedition with the Utes, on the Purgatoire, or +Purgatory River,[58] about ten or twelve miles from Trinidad. +He had taken with him, with others, a Shawnee Indian. Only a short +time before their departure from the fort, an Indian of that tribe +had been murdered by a Ute, and one day this Shawnee who was with +Wooton spied a Ute, when revenge inspired him, and he forthwith +killed his enemy. Knowing that as soon as the news of the shooting +reached the Ute village, which was not a great distance off, +the whole tribe would be down upon him, Wooton abandoned any attempt +to trade with them and tried to get out of their country as quickly +as he could. + +As he expected, the Utes followed on his trail, and came up with his +little party on a prairie where there was not the slightest chance +to ambush or hide. They had to fight, because they could not help +it, but resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible, as the +Utes outnumbered them twenty to one; Wooton having only eight men +with him, including the Shawnee. + +The pack-animals, of which they had a great many, loaded with the +goods intended for the savages, were corralled in a circle, inside +of which the men hurried themselves and awaited the first assault +of the foe. In a few moments the Utes began to circle around the +trappers and open fire. The trappers promptly responded, and they +made every shot count; for all of the men, not even excepting the +Shawnee, were experts with the rifle. They did not mind the arrows +which the Utes showered upon them, as few, if any, reached to where +they stood. The savages had a few guns, but they were of the poorest +quality; besides, they did not know how to handle them then as they +learned to do later, so their bullets were almost as harmless as +their arrows. + +The trappers made terrible havoc among the Utes' horses, killing +so many of them that the savages in despair abandoned the fight and +gave Wooton and his men an opportunity to get away, which they did +as rapidly as possible. + +The Raton Pass, through which the Old Trail ran, was a relatively +fair mountain road, but originally it was almost impossible for +anything in the shape of a wheeled vehicle to get over the narrow +rock-ribbed barrier; saddle horses and pack-mules could, however, +make the trip without much difficulty. It was the natural highway to +southeastern Colorado and northeastern New Mexico, but the overland +coaches could not get to Trinidad by the shortest route, and as the +caravans also desired to make the same line, it occurred to Uncle +Dick that he would undertake to hew out a road through the pass, +which, barring grades, should be as good as the average turnpike. +He could see money in it for him, as he expected to charge toll, +keeping the road in repair at his own expense, and he succeeded in +procuring from the legislatures of Colorado and New Mexico charters +covering the rights and privileges which he demanded for his project. + +In the spring of 1866, Uncle Dick took up his abode on the top of +the mountains, built his home, and lived there until two years ago, +when he died at a very ripe old age. + +The old trapper had imposed on himself anything but an easy task in +constructing his toll-road. There were great hillsides to cut out, +immense ledges of rocks to blast, bridges to build by the dozen, and +huge trees to fell, besides long lines of difficult grading to engineer. + +Eventually Uncle Dick's road was a fact, but when it was completed, +how to make it pay was a question that seriously disturbed his mind. +The method he employed to solve the problem I will quote in his +own words: "Such a thing as a toll-road was unknown in the country +at that time. People who had come from the States understood, +of course, that the object of building a turnpike was to enable +the owner to collect toll from those who travelled over it, but I +had to deal with a great many people who seemed to think that they +should be as free to travel over my well-graded and bridged roadway +as they were to follow an ordinary cow path. + +"I may say that I had five classes of patrons to do business with. +There was the stage company and its employees, the freighters, the +military authorities, who marched troops and transported supplies +over the road, the Mexicans, and the Indians. + +"With the stage company, the military authorities, and the American +freighters I had no trouble. With the Indians, when a band came +through now and then, I didn't care to have any controversy about +so small a matter as a few dollars toll! Whenever they came along, +the toll-gate went up, and any other little thing I could do to +hurry them on was done promptly and cheerfully. While the Indians +didn't understand anything about the system of collecting tolls, +they seemed to recognize the fact that I had a right to control +the road, and they would generally ride up to the gate and ask +permission to go through. Once in a while the chief of a band would +think compensation for the privilege of going through in order, and +would make me a present of a buckskin or something of that sort. + +"My Mexican patrons were the hardest to get along with. Paying for +the privilege of travelling over any road was something they were +totally unused to, and they did not take to it kindly. They were +pleased with my road and liked to travel over it, until they came +to the toll-gate. This they seemed to look upon as an obstruction +that no man had a right to place in the way of a free-born native +of the mountain region. They appeared to regard the toll-gate as +a new scheme for holding up travellers for the purpose of robbery, +and many of them evidently thought me a kind of freebooter, who ought +to be suppressed by law. + +"Holding these views, when I asked them for a certain amount of money, +before raising the toll-gate, they naturally differed with me very +frequently about the propriety of complying with the request. + +"In other words, there would be at such times probably an honest +difference of opinion between the man who kept the toll-gate and +the man who wanted to get through it. Anyhow, there was a difference, +and such differences had to be adjusted. Sometimes I did it through +diplomacy, and sometimes I did it with a club. It was always settled +one way, however, and that was in accordance with the toll schedule, +so that I could never have been charged with unjust discrimination +of rates." + +Soon after the road was opened a company composed of Californians +and Mexicans, commanded by a Captain Haley, passed Uncle Dick's +toll-gate and house, escorting a large caravan of about a hundred +and fifty wagons. While they stopped there, a non-commissioned +officer of the party was brutally murdered by three soldiers, and +Uncle Dick came very near being a witness to the atrocious deed. + +The murdered man was a Mexican, and his slayers were Mexicans too. +The trouble originated at Las Vegas, where the privates had been +bound and gagged, by order of the corporal, for creating a disturbance +at a fandango the evening before. + +The name of the corporal was Juan Torres, and he came down to Uncle +Dick's one evening while the command was encamped on the top of the +mountain, accompanied by the three privates, who had already plotted +to kill him, though he had not the slightest suspicion of it. + +Uncle Dick, in telling the story, said: "They left at an early hour, +going in an opposite direction from their camp, and I closed my doors +soon after, for the night. They had not been gone more than half +an hour, when I heard them talking not far from my house, and a few +seconds later I heard the half-suppressed cry of a man who has +received his death-blow. + +"I had gone to bed, and lay for a minute or two thinking whether I +should get up and go to the rescue or insure my own safety by +remaining where I was. + +"A little reflection convinced me that the murderers were undoubtedly +watching my house, to prevent any interference with the carrying out +of their plot, and that if I ventured out I should only endanger +my own life, while there was scarcely a possibility of my being +able to save the life of the man who had been assailed. + +"In the morning, when I got up, I found the dead body of the corporal +stretched across Raton Creek, not more than a hundred yards from my house. + +"As I surmised, he had been struck with a heavy club or stone, and +it was at that time that I heard his cry. After that his brains +had been beaten out, and the body left where I had found it. + +"I at once notified Captain Haley of the occurrence, and identified +the men who had been in company with the corporal, and who were +undoubtedly his murderers. + +"They were taken into custody, and made a confession, in which they +stated that one of their number had stood at my door on the night +of the murder to shoot me if I had ventured out to assist the +corporal. Two of the scoundrels were hung afterward at Las Vegas, +and the third sent to prison for life." + +The corporal was buried near where the soldiers were encamped at +the time of the tragedy, and it is his lonely grave which frequently +attracts the attention of the passengers on the Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fe trains, just before the Raton tunnel is reached, as +they travel southward. + +In 1866-67 the Indians broke out, infesting all the most prominent +points of the Old Santa Fe Trail, and watching an opportunity to +rob and murder, so that the government freight caravans and the +stages had to be escorted by detachments of troops. Fort Larned +was the western limit where these escorts joined the outfits going +over into New Mexico. + +There were other dangers attending the passage of the Trail to +travellers by the stage besides the attacks of the savages. These +were the so-called road agents--masked robbers who regarded life as +of little worth in the accomplishment of their nefarious purposes. +Particularly were they common after the mines of New Mexico began +to be operated by Americans. The object of the bandits was generally +the strong box of the express company, which contained money and +other valuables. They did not, of course, hesitate to take what +ready cash and jewelry the passengers might happen to have upon +their persons, and frequently their hauls amounted to large sums. + +When the coaches began to travel over Uncle Dick's toll-road, his +house was made a station, and he had many stage stories. He said:-- + +"Tavern-keepers in those days couldn't choose their guests, and we +entertained them just as they came along. The knights of the road +would come by now and then, order a meal, eat it hurriedly, pay for +it, and move on to where they had arranged to hold up a stage that +night. Sometimes they did not wait for it to get dark, but halted +the stage, went through the treasure box in broad daylight, and +then ordered the driver to move on in one direction, while they +went off in another. + +"One of the most daring and successful stage robberies that I remember +was perpetrated by two men, when the east-bound coach was coming up +on the south side of the Raton Mountains, one day about ten o'clock +in the forenoon. + +"On the morning of the same day, a little after sunrise, two rather +genteel-looking fellows, mounted on fine horses, rode up to my +house and ordered breakfast. Being informed that breakfast would +be ready in a few minutes, they dismounted, hitched their horses +near the door, and came into the house. + +"I knew then, just as well as I do now, they were robbers, but I +had no warrant for their arrest, and I should have hesitated about +serving it if I had, because they looked like very unpleasant men +to transact that kind of business with. + +"Each of them had four pistols sticking in his belt and a repeating +rifle strapped on to his saddle. When they dismounted, they left +their rifles with the horses, but walked into the house and sat down +at the table, without laying aside the arsenal which they carried +in their belts. + +"They had little to say while eating, but were courteous in their +behaviour, and very polite to the waiters. When they had finished +breakfast, they paid their bills, and rode leisurely up the mountain. + +"It did not occur to me that they would take chances on stopping +the stage in daylight, or I should have sent some one to meet the +incoming coach, which I knew would be along shortly, to warn the +driver and passengers to be on the lookout for robbers. + +"It turned out, however, that a daylight robbery was just what they +had in mind, and they made a success of it. + +"About halfway down the New Mexico side of the mountain, where the +canyon is very narrow, and was then heavily wooded on either side, +the robbers stopped and waited for the coach. It came lumbering +along by and by, neither the driver nor the passengers dreaming of +a hold-up. + +"The first intimation they had of such a thing was when they saw +two men step into the road, one on each side of the stage, each of +them holding two cocked revolvers, one of which was brought to bear +on the passengers and the other on the driver, who were politely +but very positively told that they must throw up their hands without +any unnecessary delay, and the stage came to a standstill. + +"There were four passengers in the coach, all men, but their hands +went up at the same instant that the driver dropped his reins and +struck an attitude that suited the robbers. + +"Then, while one of the men stood guard, the other stepped up to +the stage and ordered the treasure box thrown off. This demand was +complied with, and the box was broken and rifled of its contents, +which fortunately were not of very great value. + +"The passengers were compelled to hand out their watches and other +jewelry, as well as what money they had in their pockets, and then +the driver was directed to move up the road. In a minute after +this the robbers had disappeared with their booty, and that was +the last seen of them by that particular coach-load of passengers. + +"The men who planned and executed that robbery were two cool, +level-headed, and daring scoundrels, known as 'Chuckle-luck' and +'Magpie.' They were killed soon after this occurrence, by a member +of their own band, whose name was Seward. A reward of a thousand +dollars had been offered for their capture, an this tempted Seward +to kill them, one night when they were asleep in camp. + +"He then secured a wagon, into which he loaded the dead robbers, +and hauled them to Cimarron City, where he turned them over to the +authorities and received his reward." + +Among the Arapahoes Wooton was called "Cut Hand," from the fact +that he had lost two fingers on his left hand by an accident in his +childhood. The tribe had the utmost veneration for the old trapper, +and he was perfectly safe at any time in their villages or camps; +it had been the request of a dying chief, who was once greatly +favoured by Wooton, that his warriors should never injure him although +the nation might be at war with all the rest of the whites in the world. + +Uncle Dick died a few seasons ago, at the age of nearly ninety. +He was blind for some time, but a surgical operation partly restored +his sight, which made the old man happy, because he could look again +upon the beautiful scenery surrounding his mountain home, really +the grandest in the entire Raton Range. The Atchison, Topeka, and +Santa Fe Railroad had one of its freight locomotives named "Uncle +Dick," in honour of the veteran mountaineer, past whose house it +hauled the heavy-laden trains up the steep grade crossing into the +valley beyond. At the time of its baptism, now fifteen or sixteen +years ago, it was the largest freight engine in the world. + +Old Bill Williams was another character of the early days of the +Trail, and was called so when Carson, Uncle Dick Wooton, and Maxwell +were comparatively young in the mountains. He was, at the time of +their advent in the remote West, one of the best known men there, +and had been famous for years as a hunter and trapper. Williams was +better acquainted with every pass in the Rockies than any other man +of his time, and only surpassed by Jim Bridger later. He was with +General Fremont on his exploring expedition across the continent; +but the statement of the old trappers, and that of General Fremont, +in relation to his services then, differ widely. Fremont admits +Williams' knowledge of the country over which he had wandered to have +been very extensive, but when put to the test on the expedition, +he came very near sacrificing the lives of all. This was probably +owing to Williams' failing intellect, for when he joined the great +explorer he was past the meridian of life. Now the old mountaineers +contend that if Fremont had profited by the old man's advice, he would +never have run into the deathtrap which cost him three men, and +in which he lost all his valuable papers, his instruments, and the +animals which he and his party were riding. The expedition had +followed the Arkansas River to its source, and the general had +selected a route which he desired to pursue in crossing the mountains. +It was winter, and Williams explained to him that it was perfectly +impracticable to get over at that season. The general, however, +ignoring the statement, listened to another of his party, a man who +had no such experience but said that he could pilot the expedition. +Before they had fairly started, they were caught in one of the most +terrible snowstorms the region had ever witnessed, in which all their +horses and mules were literally frozen to death. Then, when it was +too late, they turned back, abandoning their instruments, and able +only to carry along a very limited stock of food. The storm continued +to rage, so that even Williams failed to prevent them from getting +lost, and they wandered about aimlessly for many days before they +luckily arrived at Taos, suffering seriously from exhaustion and +hunger. Three of the men were frozen to death on the return trip, +and the remaining fifteen were little better than dead when Uncle +Dick Wooton happened to run across them and piloted them into the +village. It was immediately after this disaster that the three most +noted men in the mountains--Carson, Maxwell, and Dick Owens--became the +guides of the pathfinder, with whom he had no trouble, and to whom +he owed more of his success than history has given them credit for. + +At one period of his eventful career, while he lived in Missouri, +before he wandered to the mountains, Old Bill Williams was a Methodist +preacher; of which fact he boasted frequently while he trapped and +hunted with other pioneers. Whenever he related that portion of his +early life, he declared that he "was so well known in his circuit, +that the chickens recognized him as he came riding by the scattered +farmhouses, and the old roosters would crow 'Here comes Parson +Williams! One of us must be made ready for dinner.'" + +Upon leaving the States, he travelled very extensively among the +various tribes of Indians who roamed over the great plains and in the +mountains. When sojourning with a certain band, he would invariably +adopt their manners and customs. Whenever he grew tired of that +nation, he would seek another and live as they lived. He had been +so long among the savages that he looked and talked like one, and +had imbibed many of their strange notions and curious superstitions. + +To the missionaries he was very useful. He possessed the faculty +of easily acquiring languages that other white men failed to learn, +and could readily translate the Bible into several Indian dialects. +His own conduct, however, was in strange contrast with the precepts +of the Holy Book with which he was so familiar. + +To the native Mexicans he was a holy terror and an unsolvable riddle. +They thought him possessed of an evil spirit. He at one time took up +his residence among them and commenced to trade. Shortly after he +had established himself and gathered in a stock of goods, he became +involved in a dispute with some of his customers in relation to his +prices. Upon this he apparently took an intense dislike to the +people whom he had begun to traffic with, and in his disgust tossed +his whole mass of goods into the street, and, taking up his rifle, +left at once for the mountains. + +Among the many wild ideas he had imbibed from his long association +with the Indians, was faith in their belief in the transmigration +of souls. He used so to worry his brain for hours cogitating upon +this intricate problem concerning a future state, that he actually +pretended to know exactly the animal whose place he was destined to +fill in the world after he had shaken off this mortal human coil. + +Uncle Dick Wooton told how once, when he, Old Bill Williams, and +many other trappers, were lying around the camp-fire one night, +the strange fellow, in a preaching style of delivery, related to them +all how he was to be changed into a buck elk and intended to make +his pasture in the very region where they then were. He described +certain peculiarities which would distinguish him from the common +run of elk, and was very careful to caution all those present never +to shoot such an animal, should they ever run across him. + +Williams was regarded as a warm-hearted, brave, and generous man. +He was at last killed by the Indians, while trading with them, but +has left his name to many mountain peaks, rivers, and passes +discovered by him. + +Tom Tobin, one of the last of the famous trappers, hunters, and Indian +fighters to cross the dark river, flourished in the early days, when +the Rocky Mountains were a veritable terra incognita to nearly all +excepting the hardy employees of the several fur companies and the +limited number of United States troops stationed in their remote wilds. + +Tom was an Irishman, quick-tempered, and a dead shot with either +rifle, revolver, or the formidable bowie-knife. He would fight at +the drop of the hat, but no man ever went away from his cabin hungry, +if he had a crust to divide; or penniless, if there was anything +remaining in his purse. + +He, like Carson, was rather under the average stature, red-faced, +and lacking much of being an Adonis, but whole-souled, and as quick +in his movements as an antelope. + +Tobin played an important role in avenging the death of the Americans +killed in the Taos massacre, at the storming of the Indian pueblo, +but his greatest achievement was the ending of the noted bandit +Espinosa's life, who, at the height of his career of blood, was the +terror of the whole mountain region. + +At the time of the acquisition of New Mexico by the United States, +Espinosa, who was a Mexican, owning vast herds of cattle and sheep, +resided upon his ancestral hacienda in a sort of barbaric luxury, +with a host of semi-serfs, known as Peons, to do his bidding, as did +the other "Muy Ricos," the "Dons," so called, of his class of natives. +These self-styled aristocrats of the wild country all boasted of +their Castilian blue blood, claiming descent from the nobles of +Cortez' army, but the fact is, however, with rare exceptions, that +their male ancestors, the rank and file of that army, intermarried +with the Aztec women, and they were really only a mixture of Indian +and Spanish. + +It so happened that Espinosa met an adventurous American, who, with +hundreds of others, had been attached to the "Army of Occupation" +in the Mexican War, or had emigrated from the States to seek their +fortunes in the newly acquired and much over-rated territory. + +The Mexican Don and the American became fast friends, the latter +making his home with his newly found acquaintance at the beautiful +ranch in the mountains, where they played the role of a modern Damon +and Pythias. + +Now with Don Espinosa lived his sister, a dark-eyed, bewitchingly +beautiful girl about seventeen years old, with whom the susceptible +American fell deeply in love, and his affection was reciprocated +by the maiden, with a fervour of which only the women of the race +from which she sprang are capable. + +The fascinating American had brought with him from his home in one +of the New England States a large amount of money, for his parents +were rich, and spared no indulgence to their only son. He very soon +unwisely made Espinosa his confidant, and told him of the wealth +he possessed. + +One night after the American had retired to his chamber, adjoining +that of his host, he was surprised, shortly after he had gone to bed, +by discovering a man standing over him, whose hand had already grasped +the buckskin bag under his pillow which contained a considerable +portion of his gold and silver. He sprang from his couch and fired +his pistol at random in the darkness at the would-be robber. + +Espinosa, for it was he, was wounded slightly, and, being either +enraged or frightened, he stabbed with his keen-pointed stiletto, +which all Mexicans then carried, the young man whom he had invited +to become his guest, and the blade entered the American's heart, +killing him instantly. + +The report of the pistol-shot awakened the other members of the +household, who came rushing into the room just as the victim was +breathing his last. Among them was the sister of the murderer, +who, throwing herself on the body of her dead lover, poured forth +the most bitter curses upon her brother. + +Espinosa, realizing the terrible position in which he had placed +himself, then and there determined to become an outlaw, as he could +frame no excuse for his wicked deed. He therefore hid himself +at once in the mountains, carrying with him, of course, the sack +containing the murdered American's money. + +Some time necessarily passed before he could get together a sufficient +number of cut-throats and renegades from justice to enable him wholly +to defy the authorities; but at last he succeeded in rallying a +strong force to his standard of blood, and became the terror of the +whole region, equalling in boldness and audacity the terrible Joaquin, +of California notoriety in after years. + +His headquarters were in the almost impregnable fastnesses of the +Sangre de Cristo Mountains, from which he made his invariably +successful raids into the rich valleys below. There was nothing +too bloody for him to shrink from; he robbed indiscriminately the +overland coaches to Santa Fe, the freight caravans of the traders +and government, the ranches of the Mexicans, or stole from the poorer +classes, without any compunction. He ran off horses, cattle, sheep-- +in fact, anything that he could utilize. If murder was necessary +to the completion of his work, he never for a moment hesitated. +Kidnapping, too, was a favourite pastime; but he rarely carried +away to his rendezvous any other than the most beautiful of the +New Mexican young girls, whom he held in his mountain den until +they were ransomed, or subjected to a fate more terrible. + +In 1864 the bandit, after nearly ten years of unparalleled outlawry, +was killed by Tobin. Tom had been on his trail for some time, and +at last tracked him to a temporary camp in the foot-hills, which +he accidentally discovered in a grove of cottonwoods, by the smoke +of the little camp-fire as it curled in light wreaths above the trees. + +Tobin knew that at the time there was but one of Espinosa's followers +with him, as he had watched them both for some days, waiting for an +opportunity to get the drop on them. To capture the pair of outlaws +alive never entered his thoughts; he was as cautious as brave, and +to get them dead was much safer and easier; so he crept up to the +grove on his belly, Indian fashion, and lying behind the cover of +a friendly log, waited until the noted desperado stood up, when he +pulled the trigger of his never-erring rifle, and Espinosa fell dead. +A second shot quickly disposed of his companion, and the old trapper's +mission was accomplished. + +To be able to claim the reward offered by the authorities, Tom had +to prove, beyond the possibility of doubt, that those whom he had +killed were the dreaded bandit and one of his gang. He thought it +best to cut off their heads, which he deliberately did, and packing +them on his mule in a gunny-sack, he brought them into old Fort +Massachusetts, afterward Fort Garland, where they were speedily +recognized; but whether Tom ever received the reward, I have my +doubts, as he never claimed that he did. Tobin died only a short +time ago, gray, grizzled, and venerable, his memory respected by all +who had ever met him. + +James Hobbs, among all the men of whom I have presented a hurried +sketch, had perhaps a more varied experience than any of his colleagues. +During his long life on the frontier, he was in turn a prisoner among +the savages, and held for years by them; an excellent soldier in +the war with Mexico; an efficient officer in the revolt against +Maximilian, when the attempt of Napoleon to establish an empire on +this continent, with that unfortunate prince at its head, was defeated; +an Indian fighter; a miner; a trapper; a trader, and a hunter. + +Hobbs was born in the Shawnee nation, on the Big Blue, about +twenty-three miles from Independence, Missouri. His early childhood +was entrusted to one of his father's slaves. Reared on the eastern +limit of the border, he very soon became familiar with the use of +the rifle and shot-gun; in fact, he was the principal provider of +all the meat which the family consumed. + +In 1835, when only sixteen, he joined a fur-trading expedition under +Charles Bent, destined for the fort on the Arkansas River built by +him and his brothers. + +They arrived at the crossing of the Santa Fe Trail over Pawnee Fork +without special adventure, but there they had the usual tussle with +the savages, and Hobbs killed his first Indian. Two of the traders +were pierced with arrows, but not seriously hurt, and the Pawnees +--the tribe which had attacked the outfit--were driven away discomfited, +not having been successful in stampeding a single animal. + +When the party reached the Caches, on the Upper Arkansas, a smoke +rising on the distant horizon, beyond the sand hills south of the +river, made them proceed cautiously; for to the old plainsmen, that +far-off wreath indicated either the presence of the savages, or a +signal to others at a greater distance of the approach of the trappers. + +The next morning, nothing having occurred to delay the march, buffalo +began to appear, and Hobbs killed three of them. A cow, which he +had wounded, ran across the Trail in front of the train, and Hobbs +dashed after her, wounding her with his pistol, and then she started +to swim the river. Hobbs, mad at the jeers which greeted him from +the men at his missing the animal, started for the last wagon, +in which was his rifle, determined to kill the brute that had +enraged him. As he was riding along rapidly, Bent cried out to him,-- + +"Don't try to follow that cow; she is going straight for that smoke, +and it means Injuns, and no good in 'em either." + +"But I'll get her," answered Hobbs, and he called to his closest +comrade, John Baptiste, a boy of about his own age, to go and get +his pack-mule and come along. "All right," responded John; and +together the two inexperienced youngsters crossed the river against +the protests of the veteran leader of the party. + +After a chase of about three miles, the boys came up with the cow, +but she turned and showed fight. Finally Hobbs, by riding around her, +got in a good shot, which killed her. Jumping off their animals, +both boys busied themselves in cutting out the choice pieces for +their supper, packed them on the mule, and started back for the train. +But it had suddenly become very dark, and they were in doubt as to +the direction of the Trail. + +Soon night came on so rapidly that neither could they see their own +tracks by which they had come, nor the thin fringe of cottonwoods +that lined the bank of the stream. Then they disagreed as to which +was the right way. John succeeded in persuading Hobbs that he was +correct, and the latter gave in, very much against his own belief +on the subject. + +They travelled all night, and when morning came, were bewilderingly +lost. Then Hobbs resolved to retrace the tracks by which, now that +the sun was up, he saw that they had been going south, right away +from the Arkansas. Suddenly an immense herd of buffalo, containing +at least two thousand, dashed by the boys, filling the air with the +dust raised by their clattering hoofs, and right behind them rode +a hundred Indians, shooting at the stampeded animals with their arrows. + +"Get into that ravine!" shouted Hobbs to his companion. "Throw away +that meat, and run for your life!" + +It was too late; just as they arrived at the brink of the hollow, +they looked back, and close behind them were a dozen Comanches. + +The savages rode up, and one of the party said in very good English, +"How d' do?" + +"How d' do?" Hobbs replied, thinking it would be better to be as +polite as the Indian, though the state of the latter's health just +then was a matter of small concern. + +"Texas?" inquired the Indian. The Comanches had good reasons to +hate the citizens of that country, and it was a lucky thing for +Hobbs that he had heard of their prejudice from the trappers, and +possessed presence of mind to remember it. He replied promptly: +"No, friendly; going to establish a trading-post for the Comanches." + +"Friendly? Better go with us, though. Got any tobacco?" + +Hobbs had some of the desired article, and he was not long in handing +it over to his newly found friend. + +Both of the boys were escorted to the temporary camp of the savages, +but the original number of their captors was increased to over a +thousand before they arrived there. They were supplied with some +dried buffalo-meat, and then taken to the lodge of Old Wolf, the +head chief of the tribe. + +A council was called immediately to consider what disposition should +be made of them, but nothing was decided upon, and the assembly of +warriors adjourned until morning. Hobbs told me that it was because +Old Wolf had imbibed too much brandy, a bottle of which Baptiste had +brought with him from the train, and which the thirsty warrior saw +suspended from his saddle-bow as they rode up to the chief's lodge; +the aged rascal got beastly drunk. + +About noon of the next day, after the dispersion of the council, +the boys were informed that if they were not Texans, would behave +themselves, and not attempt to run away, they might stay with the +Indians, who would not kill them; but a string of dried scalps was +pointed out, hanging on a lodge pole, of some Mexicans whom they +had captured and put to herding their ponies, and who had tried to +get away. They succeeded in making a few miles; the Indians chased +them, after deciding in council, that, if caught, only their scalps +were to be brought back. The moral of this was that the same fate +awaited the boys if they followed the example of the foolish Mexicans. + +Hobbs had excellent sense and judgment, and he knew that it would +be the height of folly for him and Baptiste, mere boys, to try and +reach either Bent's Fort or the Missouri River, not having the +slightest knowledge of where they were situated. + +Hobbs grew to be a great favourite with the Comanches; was given +the daughter of Old Wolf in marriage, became a great chief, fought +many hard battles with his savage companions, and at last, four years +after, was redeemed by Colonel Bent, who paid Old Wolf a small +ransom for him at the Fort, where the Indians had come to trade. +Baptiste, whom the Indians never took a great fancy to, because he +did not develop into a great warrior, was also ransomed by Bent, +his price being only an antiquated mule. + +At Bent's Fort Hobbs went out trapping under the leadership of Kit +Carson, and they became lifelong friends. In a short time Hobbs +earned the reputation of being an excellent mountaineer, trapper, +and as an Indian fighter he was second to none, his education among +the Comanches having trained him in all the strategy of the savages. + +After going through the Mexican War with an excellent record, Hobbs +wandered about the country, now engaged in mining in old Mexico, then +fighting the Apaches under the orders of the governor of Chihuahua, +and at the end of the campaign going back to the Pacific coast, +where he entered into new pursuits. Sometimes he was rich, then as +poor as one can imagine. He returned to old Mexico in time to become +an active partisan in the revolt which overthrew the short-lived +dynasty of Maximilian, and was present at the execution of that +unfortunate prince. Finally he retired to the home of his childhood +in the States, where he died a few months ago, full of years and honours. + +William F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill," is one of the famous plainsmen, +of later days, however, than Carson, Bridger, John Smith, Maxwell, +and others whom I have mentioned. The mantle of Kit Carson, perhaps, +fits more perfectly the shoulders of Cody than those of any other +of the great frontiersman's successors, and he has had some experiences +that surpassed anything which fell to their lot. + +He was born in Iowa, in 1845, and when barely seven years old his +father emigrated to Kansas, then far remote from civilization. + +Thirty-six years ago, he was employed as guide and scout in an +expedition against the Kiowas and Comanches, and his line of duty +took him along the Santa Fe Trail all one summer when not out as +a scout, carrying despatches between Fort Lyon and Fort Larned, +the most important military posts on the great highway as well as +to far-off Fort Leavenworth on the Missouri River, the headquarters +of the department. Fort Larned was the general rendezvous of all +the scouts on the Kansas and Colorado plains, the chief of whom was +a veteran interpreter and guide, named Dick Curtis. + +When Cody first reported there for his responsible duty, a large camp +of the Kiowas and Comanches was established within sight of the fort, +whose warriors had not as yet put on their war-paint, but were +evidently restless and discontented under the restraint of their +chiefs. Soon those leading men, Satanta, Lone Wolf, Satank, and +others of lesser note, grew rather impudent and haughty in their +deportment, and they were watched with much concern. The post was +garrisoned by only two companies of infantry and one of cavalry. + +General Hazen, afterward chief of the signal service in Washington, +was at Fort Larned at the time, endeavouring to patch up a peace with +the savages, who seemed determined to break out. Cody was special +scout to the general, and one morning he was ordered to accompany him +as far as Fort Zarah, on the Arkansas, near the mouth of Walnut Creek, +in what is now Barton County, Kansas, the general intending to go +on to Fort Harker, on the Smoky Hill. In making these trips of +inspection, with incidental collateral duties, the general usually +travelled in an ambulance, but on this journey he rode in a six-mule +army-wagon, escorted by a detachment of a score of infantry. It was +a warm August day, and an early start was made, which enabled them +to reach Fort Zarah, over thirty miles distant, by noon. After dinner, +the general proposed to go on to Fort Harker, forty-one miles away, +without any escort, leaving orders for Cody to return to Fort Larned +the next day, with the soldiers. But Cody, ever impatient of delay +when there was work to do, notified the sergeant in charge of the +men that he was going back that very afternoon. I tell the story +of his trip as he has often told it to me, and as he has written +it in his autobiography. + +"I accordingly saddled up my mule and set out for Fort Larned. +I proceeded on uninterruptedly until I got about halfway between +the two posts, when, at Pawnee Rock, I was suddenly jumped by about +forty Indians, who came dashing up to me, extending their hands +and saying, 'How! How!' They were some of the Indians who had been +hanging around Fort Larned in the morning. I saw they had on their +war-paint, and were evidently now out on the war-path. + +"My first impulse was to shake hands with them, as they seemed so +desirous of it. I accordingly reached out my hand to one of them, +who grasped it with a tight grip, and jerked me violently forward; +then pulled my mule by the bridle, and in a moment I was completely +surrounded. Before I could do anything at all, they had seized my +revolvers from the holsters, and I received a blow on the head from +a tomahawk which nearly rendered me senseless. My gun, which was +lying across the saddle, was snatched from its place, and finally +the Indian who had hold of the bridle started off toward the Arkansas +River, leading the mule, which was being lashed by the other Indians, +who were following. The savages were all singing, yelling, and +whooping, as only Indians can do, when they are having their little +game all their own way. While looking toward the river, I saw on +the opposite side an immense village moving along the bank, and then +I became convinced that the Indians had left the post and were now +starting out on the war-path. My captors crossed the stream with me, +and as we waded through the shallow water they continued to lash the +mule and myself. Finally they brought me before an important-looking +body of Indians, who proved to be the chiefs and principal warriors. +I soon recognized old Satanta among them, as well as others whom +I knew, and supposed it was all over with me. + +"The Indians were jabbering away so rapidly among themselves that +I could not understand what they were saying. Satanta at last asked +me where I had been. As good luck would have it, a happy thought +struck me. I told him I had been after a herd of cattle, or +'whoa-haws,' as they called them. It so happened that the Indians +had been out of meat for several weeks, as the large herd of cattle +which had been promised them had not yet arrived, although they +expected them. + +"The moment I mentioned that I had been searching for 'whoa-haws,' +old Satanta began questioning me in a very eager manner. He asked me +where the cattle were, and I replied that they were back a few miles, +and that I had been sent by General Hazen to inform him that the +cattle were coming, and that they were intended for his people. +This seemed to please the old rascal, who also wanted to know if there +were any soldiers with the herd, and my reply was that there were. +Thereupon the chiefs held a consultation, and presently Satanta asked +me if General Hazen had really said that they should have the cattle. +I replied in the affirmative, and added that I had been directed to +bring the cattle to them. I followed this up with a very dignified +inquiry, asking why his young men had treated me so. The old wretch +intimated that it was only a 'freak of the boys'; that the young men +wanted to see if I was brave; in fact, they had only meant to test me, +and the whole thing was a joke. + +"The veteran liar was now beating me at my own game of lying, but +I was very glad, as it was in my favour. I did not let him suspect +that I doubted his veracity, but I remarked that it was a rough way +to treat friends. He immediately ordered his young men to give +back my arms, and scolded them for what they had done. Of course, +the sly old dog was now playing it very fine, as he was anxious +to get possession of the cattle, with which he believed there was +a 'heap' of soldiers coming. He had concluded it was not best to +fight the soldiers if he could get the cattle peaceably. + +"Another council was held by the chiefs, and in a few minutes old +Satanta came and asked me if I would go to the river and bring the +cattle down to the opposite side, so that they could get them. +I replied, 'Of course; that's my instruction from General Hazen.' + +"Satanta said I must not feel angry at his young men, for they had +only been acting in fun. He then inquired if I wished any of his men +to accompany me to the cattle herd. I replied that it would be better +for me to go alone, and then the soldiers could keep right on to +Fort Larned, while I could drive the herd down on the bottom. Then +wheeling my mule around, I was soon recrossing the river, leaving old +Satanta in the firm belief that I had told him a straight story, and +that I was going for the cattle which existed only in my imagination. + +"I hardly knew what to do, but thought that if I could get the river +between the Indians and myself, I would have a good three-quarters of +a mile the start of them, and could then make a run for Fort Larned, +as my mule was a good one. + +"Thus far my cattle story had panned out all right; but just as I +reached the opposite bank of the river, I looked behind me and saw +that ten or fifteen Indians, who had begun to suspect something +crooked, were following me. The moment that my mule secured a good +foothold on the bank, I urged him into a gentle lope toward the place +where, according to my statement, the cattle were to be brought. +Upon reaching a little ridge and riding down the other side out of +view, I turned my mule and headed him westward for Fort Larned. +I let him out for all that he was worth, and when I came out on a +little rise of ground, I looked back and saw the Indian village in +plain sight. My pursuers were now on the ridge which I had passed +over, and were looking for me in every direction. + +"Presently they spied me, and seeing that I was running away, they +struck out in swift pursuit, and in a few minutes it became painfully +evident they were gaining on me. They kept up the chase as far as +Ash Creek, six miles from Fort Larned. I still led them half a mile, +as their horses had not gained much during the last half of the race. +My mule seemed to have gotten his second wind, and as I was on the +old road, I played the spurs and whip on him without much cessation; +the Indians likewise urged their steeds to the utmost. + +"Finally, upon reaching the dividing ridge between Ash Creek and +Pawnee Fork, I saw Fort Larned only four miles away. It was now +sundown, and I heard the evening gun. The troops of the small +garrison little dreamed there was a man flying for his life and +trying to reach the post. The Indians were once more gaining on me, +and when I crossed the Pawnee Fork two miles from the post, two or +three of them were only a quarter of a mile behind me. Just as I +gained the opposite bank of the stream, I was overjoyed to see some +soldiers in a government wagon only a short distance off. I yelled +at the top of my voice, and riding up to them, told them that the +Indians were after me. + +"'Denver Jim,' a well-known scout, asked me how many there were, and +upon my informing him that there were about a dozen, he said: 'Let's +drive the wagon into the trees, and we'll lay for 'em.' The team +was hurriedly driven among the trees and low box-elder bushes, and +there secreted. + +"We did not have to wait long for the Indians, who came dashing up, +lashing their ponies, which were panting and blowing. We let two +of them pass by, but we opened a lively fire on the next three or +four, killing two of them at the first crack. The others following +discovered that they had run into an ambush, and whirling off into +the brush, they turned and ran back in the direction whence they +had come. The two who had passed by heard the firing and made their +escape. We scalped the two that we had killed, and appropriated +their arms and equipments; then, catching their ponies, we made our +way into the Post." + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. +MAXWELL'S RANCH. + + + +One of the most interesting and picturesque regions of all New Mexico +is the immense tract of nearly two million acres known as Maxwell's +Ranch, through which the Old Trail ran, and the title to which was +some years since determined by the Supreme Court of the United States +in favour of an alien company.[59] Dead long ago, Maxwell belonged +to a generation and a class almost completely extinct, and the like +of which will, in all probability, never be seen again; for there +is no more frontier to develop them. + +Several years prior to the acquisition of the territory by the +United States, the immense tract comprised in the geographical limits +of the ranch was granted to Carlos Beaubien and Guadalupe Miranda, +both citizens of the province of New Mexico, and agents of the +American Fur Company. Attached to the company as an employer, +a trapper, and hunter, was Lucien B. Maxwell, an Illinoisan by birth, +who married a daughter of Beaubien. After the death of the latter +Maxwell purchased all the interest of the joint proprietor, Miranda, +and that of the heirs of Beaubien, thus at once becoming the largest +landowner in the United States. + +At the zenith of his influence and wealth, during the War of the +Rebellion, when New Mexico was isolated and almost independent of +care or thought by the government at Washington, he lived in a +sort of barbaric splendour, akin to that of the nobles of England +at the time of the Norman conquest. + +The thousands of arable acres comprised in the many fertile valleys +of his immense estate were farmed in a primitive, feudal sort of way, +by native Mexicans principally, under the system of peonage then +existing in the Territory. He employed about five hundred men, and +they were as much his thralls as were Gurth and Wamba of Cedric of +Rotherwood, only they wore no engraved collars around their necks +bearing their names and that of their master. Maxwell was not a +hard governor, and his people really loved him, as he was ever their +friend and adviser. + +His house was a palace when compared with the prevailing style of +architecture in that country, and cost an immense sum of money. +It was large and roomy, purely American in its construction, but the +manner of conducting it was strictly Mexican, varying between the +customs of the higher and lower classes of that curious people. + +Some of its apartments were elaborately furnished, others devoid of +everything except a table for card-playing and a game's complement +of chairs. The principal room, an extended rectangular affair, +which might properly have been termed the Baronial Hall, was almost +bare except for a few chairs, a couple of tables, and an antiquated +bureau. There Maxwell received his friends, transacted business +with his vassals, and held high carnival at times. + +I have slept on its hardwood floor, rolled up in my blanket, with +the mighty men of the Ute nation lying heads and points all around me, +as close as they could possibly crowd, after a day's fatiguing hunt +in the mountains. I have sat there in the long winter evenings, +when the great room was lighted only by the cheerful blaze of the +crackling logs roaring up the huge throats of its two fireplaces +built diagonally across opposite corners, watching Maxwell, Kit Carson, +and half a dozen chiefs silently interchange ideas in the wonderful +sign language, until the glimmer of Aurora announced the advent of +another day. But not a sound had been uttered during the protracted +hours, save an occasional grunt of satisfaction on the part of the +Indians, or when we white men exchanged a sentence. + +Frequently Maxwell and Carson would play the game of seven-up for +hours at a time, seated at one of the tables. Kit was usually the +victor, for he was the greatest expert in that old and popular +pastime I have ever met. Maxwell was an inveterate gambler, but +not by any means in a professional sense; he indulged in the hazard +of the cards simply for the amusement it afforded him in his rough +life of ease, and he could very well afford the losses which the +pleasure sometimes entailed. His special penchant, however, was +betting on a horse race, and his own stud comprised some of the +fleetest animals in the Territory. Had he lived in England he might +have ruled the turf, but many jobs were put up on him by unscrupulous +jockeys, by which he was outrageously defrauded of immense sums. + +He was fond of cards, as I have said, both of the purely American +game of poker, and also of old sledge, but rarely played except with +personal friends, and never without stakes. He always exacted the +last cent he had won, though the next morning, perhaps, he would +present or loan his unsuccessful opponent of the night before five +hundred or a thousand dollars, if he needed it; an immensely greater +sum, in all probability, than had been gained in the game. + +The kitchen and dining-rooms of his princely establishment were +detached from the main residence. There was one of the latter for +the male portion of his retinue and guests of that sex, and another +for the female, as, in accordance with the severe, and to us strange, +Mexican etiquette, men rarely saw a woman about the premises, though +there were many. Only the quick rustle of a skirt, or a hurried view +of a reboso, as its wearer flashed for an instant before some window +or half-open door, told of their presence. + +The greater portion of his table-service was solid silver, and at +his hospitable board there were rarely any vacant chairs. Covers +were laid daily for about thirty persons; for he had always many +guests, invited or forced upon him in consequence of his proverbial +munificence, or by the peculiar location of his manor-house which +stood upon a magnificently shaded plateau at the foot of mighty +mountains, a short distance from a ford on the Old Trail. As there +were no bridges over the uncertain streams of the great overland +route in those days, the ponderous Concord coaches, with their +ever-full burden of passengers, were frequently water-bound, and +Maxwell's the only asylum from the storm and flood; consequently +he entertained many. + +At all times, and in all seasons, the group of buildings, houses, +stables, mill, store, and their surrounding grounds, were a constant +resort and loafing-place of Indians. From the superannuated chiefs, +who revelled lazily during the sunny hours in the shady peacefulness +of the broad porches; the young men of the tribe, who gazed with +covetous eyes upon the sleek-skinned, blooded colts sporting in the +spacious corrals; the squaws, fascinated by the gaudy calicoes, +bright ribbons, and glittering strings of beads on the counters +or shelves of the large store, to the half-naked, chubby little +pappooses around the kitchen doors, waiting with expectant mouths +for some delicious morsel of refuse to be thrown to them--all assumed, +in bearing and manner, a vested right of proprietorship in their +agreeable environment. + +To this motley group, always under his feet, as it were, Maxwell was +ever passively gracious, although they were battening in idleness +on his prodigal bounty from year to year. + +His retinue of servants, necessarily large, was made up of a +heterogeneous mixture of Indians, Mexicans, and half-breeds. +The kitchens were presided over by dusky maidens under the tutelage +of experienced old crones, and its precincts were sacred to them; +but the dining-rooms were forbidden to women during the hours of +meals, which were served by boys. + +Maxwell was rarely, as far as my observation extended, without a +large amount of money in his possession. He had no safe, however, +his only place of temporary deposit for the accumulated cash being +the bottom drawer of the old bureau in the large room to which I +have referred, which was the most antiquated concern of common pine +imaginable. There were only two other drawers in this old-fashioned +piece of furniture, and neither of them possessed a lock. The third, +or lower, the one that contained the money, did, but it was absolutely +worthless, being one of the cheapest pattern and affording not the +slightest security; besides, the drawers above it could be pulled out, +exposing the treasure immediately beneath to the cupidity of any one. + +I have frequently seen as much as thirty thousand dollars--gold, +silver, greenbacks, and government checks--at one time in that novel +depository. Occasionally these large sums remained there for several +days, yet there was never any extra precaution taken to prevent its +abstraction; doors were always open and the room free of access to +every one, as usual. + +I once suggested to Maxwell the propriety of purchasing a safe for +the better security of his money, but he only smiled, while a strange, +resolute look flashed from his dark eyes, as he said: "God help the +man who attempted to rob me and I knew him!" + +The sources of his wealth were his cattle, sheep, and the products +of his area of cultivated acres--barley, oats, and corn principally-- +which he disposed of to the quartermaster and commissary departments +of the army, in the large military district of New Mexico. +His wool-clip must have been enormous, too; but I doubt whether he +could have told the number of animals that furnished it or the +aggregate of his vast herds. He had a thousand horses, ten thousand +cattle, and forty thousand sheep at the time I knew him well, +according to the best estimates of his Mexican relatives. + +He also possessed a large and perfectly appointed gristmill, which +was a great source of revenue, for wheat was one of the staple crops +of his many farms. + +Maxwell was fond of travelling all over the Territory, his equipages +comprising everything in the shape of a vehicle, through all their +varieties, from the most plainly constructed buckboard to the +lumbering, but comfortable and expensive, Concord coach, mounted on +thorough braces instead of springs, and drawn by four or six horses. +He was perfectly reckless in his driving, dashing through streams, +over irrigating ditches, stones, and stumps like a veritable Jehu, +regardless of consequences, but, as is usually the fortune of such +precipitate horsemen, rarely coming to grief. + +The headquarters of the Ute agency were established at Maxwell's Ranch +in early days, and the government detailed a company of cavalry to +camp there, more, however, to impress the plains tribes who roamed +along the Old Trail east of the Raton Range, than for any effect on +the Utes, whom Maxwell could always control, and who regarded him +as a father. + +On the 4th of July, 1867, Maxwell, who owned an antiquated and rusty +six-pound field howitzer, suggested to the captain of the troop +stationed there the propriety of celebrating the day. So the old +piece was dragged from its place under a clump of elms, where it had +been hidden in the grass and weeds ever since the Mexican War probably, +and brought near the house. The captain and Maxwell acted the role +of gunners, the former at the muzzle, the latter at the breech; +the discharge was premature, blowing out the captain's eye and taking +off his arm, while Maxwell escaped with a shattered thumb. As soon +as the accident occurred, a sergeant was despatched to Fort Union on +one of the fastest horses on the ranch, the faithful animal falling +dead the moment he stopped in front of the surgeon's quarters, having +made the journey of fifty-five miles in little more than four hours. + +The surgeon left the post immediately, arriving at Maxwell's late that +night, but in time to save the officer's life, after which he dressed +Maxwell's apparently inconsiderable wound. In a few days, however, +the thumb grew angry-looking; it would not yield to the doctor's +careful treatment, so he reluctantly decided that amputation was +necessary. After an operation was determined upon, I prevailed upon +Maxwell to come to the fort and remain with me, inviting Kit Carson +at the same time, that he might assist in catering to the amusement +of my suffering guest. Maxwell and Carson arrived at my quarters +late in the day, after a tedious ride in the big coach, and the +surgeon, in order to allow a prolonged rest on account of Maxwell's +feverish condition, postponed the operation until the following evening. + +The next night, as soon as it grew dark--we waited for coolness, +as the days were excessively hot--the necessary preliminaries were +arranged, and when everything was ready the surgeon commenced. +Maxwell declined the anaesthetic prepared for him, and sitting in a +common office chair put out his hand, while Carson and myself stood +on opposite sides, each holding an ordinary kerosene lamp. In a few +seconds the operation was concluded, and after the silver-wire +ligatures were twisted in their places, I offered Maxwell, who had +not as yet permitted a single sigh to escape his lips, half a +tumblerful of whiskey; but before I had fairly put it to his mouth, +he fell over, having fainted dead away, while great beads of +perspiration stood on his forehead, indicative of the pain he had +suffered, as the amputation of the thumb, the surgeon told us then, +was as bad as that of a leg. + +He returned to his ranch as soon as the surgeon pronounced him well, +and Carson to his home in Taos. I saw the latter but once more at +Maxwell's; but he was en route to visit me at Fort Harker, in Kansas, +when he was taken ill at Fort Lyon, where he died. + + A boy's will is the wind's will, + And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts. + +How true it now seems to me, as the recollections of my boyish days, +when I read of the exploits of Kit Carson, crowd upon my memory! +I firmly believed him to be at least ten feet tall, carrying a rifle +so heavy that, like Bruce's sword, it required two men to lift it. +I imagined he drank out of nothing smaller than a river, and picked +the carcass of a whole buffalo as easily as a lady does the wing of +a quail. Ten years later I made the acquaintance of the foremost +frontiersman, and found him a delicate, reticent, under-sized, +wiry man, as perfectly the opposite of the type my childish brain +had created as it is possible to conceive. + +At Fort Union our mail arrived every morning by coach over the Trail, +generally pulling up at the sutler's store, whose proprietor was +postmaster, about daylight. While Maxwell and Kit were my guests, +I sauntered down after breakfast one morning to get my mail, and +while waiting for the letters to be distributed, happened to glance +at some papers lying on the counter, among which I saw a new periodical +--the _Day's Doings_, I think it was--that had a full-page illustration +of a scene in a forest. In the foreground stood a gigantic figure +dressed in the traditional buckskin; on one arm rested an immense +rifle; his other arm was around the waist of the conventional female +of such sensational journals, while in front, lying prone upon the +ground, were half a dozen Indians, evidently slain by the singular +hero in defending the impossibly attired female. The legend related +how all this had been effected by the famous Kit Carson. I purchased +the paper, returned with it to my room, and after showing it to +several officers who had called upon Maxwell, I handed it to Kit. +He wiped his spectacles, studied the picture intently for a few +seconds, turned round, and said: "Gentlemen, that thar may be true, +but I hain't got no recollection of it." + +I passed a delightful two weeks with Maxwell, late in the summer of +1867, at the time that the excitement over the discovery of gold on +his ranch had just commenced, and adventurers were beginning to +congregate in the hills and gulches from everywhere. The discovery +of the precious metal on his estate was the first cause of his +financial embarrassment. It was the ruin also of many other prominent +men in New Mexico, who expended their entire fortune in the construction +of an immense ditch, forty miles in length--from the Little Canadian +or Red River--to supply the placer diggings in the Moreno valley with +water, when the melted snow of Old Baldy range had exhausted itself +in the late summer. The scheme was a stupendous failure; its ruins +may be seen to-day in the deserted valleys, a monument to man's +engineering skill, but the wreck of his hopes. + +For some years previous to the discovery of gold in the mountains and +gulches of Maxwell's Ranch, it was known that copper existed in the +region; several shafts had been sunk and tunnels driven in various +places, and gold had been found from time to time, but was kept a +secret for many months. Its presence was at last revealed to Maxwell +by a party of his own miners, who were boring into the heart of +Old Baldy for a copper lead that had cropped out and was then lost. + +Of course, to keep the knowledge of the discovery of gold from the +world is an impossibility; such was the case in this instance, and +soon commenced that squatter immigration out of which, after the +ranch was sold and Maxwell died, grew that litigation which has +resulted in favour of the company who purchased from or through the +first owners after Maxwell's death. + +He was a representative man of the border of the same class as his +compeers--"wild-civilized men," to borrow an expressive term from +John Burroughs--of strong local attachments, and overflowing with the +milk of human kindness. To such as he there was an unconquerable +infatuation in life on the remote plains and in the solitude of the +mountains. There was never anything of the desperado in their +character, while the adventurers who at times have made the far West +infamous, since the advent of the railroad, were bad men originally. + +Occasionally such men turn up everywhere, and become a terror to +the community, but they are always wound up sooner or later; they +die with their boots on; Western graveyards are full of them. + +Maxwell, under contract with the Interior Department, furnished +live beeves to the Ute nation, the issue of which was made weekly +from his own vast herds. The cattle, as wild as those from the +Texas prairies, were driven by his herders into an immense enclosed +field, and there turned loose to be slaughtered by the savages. + +Once when at the ranch I told Maxwell I should like to have a horse +to witness the novel sight. He immediately ordered a Mexican groom +to procure one; but I did not see the peculiar smile that lighted up +his face, as he whispered something to the man which I did not catch. +Presently the groom returned leading a magnificent gray, which I +mounted, Maxwell suggesting that I should ride down to the large +field and wait there until the herd arrived. I entered the great +corral, patting my horse on the neck now and then, to make him +familiar with my touch, and attempted to converse with some of the +chiefs, who were dressed in their best, painted as if for the +war-path, gaily bedecked with feathers and armed with rifles and +gaudily appointed bows and arrows; but I did not succeed very well +in drawing them from their normal reticence. The squaws, a hundred +of them, were sitting on the ground, their knives in hand ready for +the labour which is the fate of their sex in all savage tribes, +while their lords' portion of the impending business was to end with +the more manly efforts of the chase. + +Suddenly a great cloud of dust rose on the trail from the mountains, +and on came the maddened animals, fairly shaking the earth with +their mighty tread. As soon as the gate was closed behind them, +and uttering a characteristic yell that was blood-curdling in its +ferocity, the Indians charged upon the now doubly frightened herd, +and commenced to discharge their rifles, regardless of the presence +of any one but themselves. My horse became paralyzed for an instant +and stood poised on his hind legs, like the steed represented in +that old lithographic print of Napoleon crossing the Alps; then taking +the bit in his teeth, he rushed aimlessly into the midst of the +flying herd, while the bullets from the guns of the excited savages +rained around my head. I had always boasted of my equestrian +accomplishments--I was never thrown but once in my life, and that was +years afterward--but in this instance it taxed all my powers to keep +my seat. In less than twenty minutes the last beef had fallen; and +the warriors, inflated with the pride of their achievement, rode +silently out of the field, leaving the squaws to cut up and carry +away the meat to their lodges, more than three miles distant, which +they soon accomplished, to the last quivering morsel. + +As I rode leisurely back to the house, I saw Maxwell and Kit standing +on the broad porch, their sides actually shaking with laughter at +my discomfiture, they having been watching me from the very moment +the herd entered the corral. It appeared that the horse Maxwell +ordered the groom to bring me was a recent importation from St. Louis, +had never before seen an Indian, and was as unused to the prairies +and mountains as a street-car mule. Kit said that my mount reminded +him of one that his antagonist in a duel rode a great many years ago +when he was young. If the animal had not been such "a fourth-of-July" +brute, his opponent would in all probability have finished him, as he +was a splendid shot; but Kit fortunately escaped, the bullet merely +grazing him under the ear, leaving a scar which he then showed me. + +One night Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I were up in the Raton Mountains +above the Old Trail, and having lingered too long, were caught above +the clouds against our will, darkness having overtaken us before we +were ready to descend into the valley. It was dangerous to undertake +the trip over such a precipitous and rocky trail, so we were compelled +to make the best of our situation. It was awfully cold, and as we +had brought no blankets, we dared not go to sleep for fear our fire +might go out, and we should freeze. We therefore determined to make +a night of it by telling yarns, smoking our pipes, and walking around +at times. After sitting awhile, Maxwell pointed toward the Spanish +Peaks, whose snow-white tops cast a diffused light in the heavens +above them, and remarked that in the deep canyon which separates them, +he had had one of the "closest calls" of his life, willingly complying +when I asked him to tell us the story. + +"It was in 1847. I came down from Taos with a party to go to the +Cimarron crossing of the Santa Fe Trail to pick up a large herd of +horses for the United States Quartermaster's Department. We succeeded +in gathering about a hundred and started back with them, letting +them graze slowly along, as we were in no hurry. When we arrived +at the foot-hills north of Bent's Fort, we came suddenly upon the +trail of a large war-band of Utes, none of whom we saw, but from +subsequent developments the savages must have discovered us days +before we reached the mountains. I knew we were not strong enough +to cope with the whole Ute nation, and concluded the best thing for +us to do under the ticklish circumstances was to make a detour, +and put them off our trail. So we turned abruptly down the Arkansas, +intending to try and get to Taos in that direction, more than one +hundred and fifty miles around. It appeared afterward that the +Indians had been following us all the way. When we found this out, +some of the men believed they were another party, and not the same +whose trail we came upon when we turned down the river, but I always +insisted they were. When we arrived within a few days' drive of Taos, +we were ambushed in one of the narrow passes of the range, and had +the bloodiest fight with the Utes on record. There were thirteen +of us, all told, and two little children whom we were escorting to +their friends at Taos, having received them at the Cimarron crossing. + +"While we were quietly taking our breakfast one morning, and getting +ready to pull out for the day's march, perfectly unsuspicious of the +proximity of any Indians, they dashed in upon us, and in less than +a minute stampeded all our stock--loose animals as well as those we +were riding. While part of the savages were employed in running off +the animals, fifty of their most noted warriors, splendidly mounted +and horribly painted, rushed into the camp, around the fire of which +the men and the little children were peacefully sitting, and, +discharging their guns as they rode up, killed one man and wounded +another. + +"Terribly surprised as we were, it did not turn the heads of the old +mountaineers, and I immediately told them to make a break for a clump +of timber near by, and that we would fight them as long as one of us +could stand up. There we fought and fought against fearful odds, +until all were wounded except two. The little children were captured +at the beginning of the trouble and carried off at once. After a +while the savages got tired of the hard work, and, as is frequently +the case, went away of their own free will; but they left us in a +terrible plight. All were sore, stiff, and weak from their many wounds; +on foot, and without any food or ammunition to procure game with, +having exhausted our supply in the awfully unequal battle; besides, +we were miles from home, with every prospect of starving to death. + +"We could not remain where we were, so as soon as darkness came on, +we started out to walk to some settlement. We dared not show +ourselves by daylight, and all through the long hours when the sun +was up, we were obliged to hide in the brush and ravines until night +overtook us again, and we could start on our painful march. + +"We had absolutely nothing to eat, and our wounds began to fester, +so that we could hardly move at all. We should undoubtedly have +perished, if, on the third day, a band of friendly Indians of another +tribe had not gone to Taos and reported the fight to the commanding +officer of the troops there. These Indians had heard of our trouble +with the Utes, and knowing how strong they were, and our weakness, +surmised our condition, and so hastened to convey the bad news. + +"A company of dragoons was immediately sent to our rescue, under the +guidance of Dick Wooton, who was and has ever been a warm personal +friend of mine. They came upon us about forty miles from Taos, and +never were we more surprised; we had become so starved and emaciated +that we had abandoned all hope of escaping what seemed to be our +inevitable fate. + +"When the troops found us, we had only a few rags, our clothes having +been completely stripped from our bodies while struggling through +the heavy underbrush on our trail, and we were so far exhausted that +we could not stand on our feet. One more day, and we would have been +laid out. + +"The little children were, fortunately, saved from the horror of +that terrible march after the fight, as the Indians carried them to +their winter camp, where, if not absolutely happy, they were under +shelter and fed; escaping the starvation which would certainly have +been their fate if they had remained with us. They were eventually +ransomed for a cash payment by the government, and altogether had not +been very harshly treated." + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. +BENT'S FORTS. + + + +The famous Bent brothers, William, George, Robert, and Charles, were +French-Canadian hunters and trappers, and had been employed almost +from boyhood, in the early days of the border, by the American Fur +Company in the mountains of the Northwest. + +In 1826, almost immediately after the transference of the fur trade +to the valley of the Arkansas, when the commerce of the prairies +was fairly initiated, the three Bents and Ceran St. Vrain, also a +French-Canadian and trapper, settled on the Upper Arkansas, where +they erected a stockade. It was, of course, a rude affair, formed of +long stakes or pickets driven into the ground, after the Mexican +style known as jacal. The sides were then ceiled and roofed, and +it served its purpose of a trading-post. This primitive fort was +situated on the left or north bank of the river, about halfway between +Pueblo and Canyon City, those beautiful mountain towns of to-day. + +Two years afterward, in 1828, the proprietors of the primitive +stockade in the remote wilderness found it necessary to move closer +to the great hunting-grounds lower down the valley. There, about +twelve miles northeast of the now thriving town of Las Animas, +the Bents commenced the construction of a relatively large and more +imposing-looking structure than the first. The principal material +used in the new building, or rather in its walls, was adobe, or +sun-dried brick, so common even to-day in New Mexican architecture. +Four years elapsed before the new fort was completed, during which +period its owners, like other trappers, lived in tents or teepees +fashioned of buffalo-skins, after the manner of the Indians. + +When at last the new station was completed, it was named Fort William, +in honour of Colonel William Bent, who was the leader of the family +and the most active trader among the four partners in the concern. +The colonel frequently made long trips to the remote villages of the +Arapahoes, Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Comanches, which were situated far +to the south and east, on the Canadian River and its large tributaries. +His miscellaneous assortment of merchandise he transported upon +pack-mules to the Indian rendezvous, bringing back to the fort the +valuable furs he had exchanged for the goods so eagerly coveted by +the savages. It was while on one of his trading expeditions to the +Cheyenne nation that the colonel married a young squaw of that tribe, +the daughter of the principal chief. + +William Bent for his day and time was an exceptionally good man. +His integrity, his truthfulness on all occasions, and his remarkable +courage endeared him to the red and white man alike, and Fort William +prospered wonderfully under his careful and just management. Both +his brothers and St. Vrain had taken up their residence in Taos, and +upon the colonel devolved the entire charge of the busy establishment. +It soon became the most popular rendezvous of the mountaineers and +trappers, and in its immediate vicinity several tribes of Indians +took up their temporary encampment. + +In 1852 Fort William was destroyed under the following strange +circumstances: It appears that the United States desired to purchase +it. Colonel Bent had decided upon a price--sixteen thousand dollars-- +but the representatives of the War Department offered only twelve +thousand, which, of course, Bent refused. Negotiations were still +pending, when the colonel, growing tired of the red-tape and +circumlocution of the authorities, and while in a mad mood, removed +all his valuables from the structure, excepting some barrels of +gunpowder, and then deliberately set fire to the old landmark. +When the flames reached the powder, there was an explosion which +threw down portions of the walls, but did not wholly destroy them. +The remains of the once noted buildings stand to-day, melancholy +relics of a past epoch. + +In the same year the indefatigable and indomitable colonel determined +upon erecting a much more important structure. He selected a site +on the same side of the Arkansas, in the locality known as Big Timbers. +Regarding this new venture, Colonel or Judge Moore of Las Animas, +a son-in-law of William Bent, tells in a letter to the author of +the history of Colorado the following facts:-- + + Leaving ten men in camp to get out stone for the new post, + Colonel Bent took a part of his outfit and went to a Kiowa + village, about two hundred miles southwest, and remained + there all winter, trading with the Kiowas and Comanches. + In the spring of 1853 he returned to Big Timbers, when + the construction of the new post was begun, and the work + continued until completed in the summer of 1854; and it + was used as a trading-post until the owner leased it to + the government in the autumn of 1859. Colonel Sedgwick had + been sent out to fight the Kiowas that year, and in the fall + a large quantity of commissary stores had been sent him. + Colonel Bent then moved up the river to a point just above + the mouth of the Purgatoire, and built several rooms of + cottonwood pickets, and there spent the winter. In the + spring of 1860, Colonel Sedgwick began the construction of + officers' buildings, company quarters, corrals, and stables, + all of stone, and named the place Fort Wise, in honour of + Governor Wise of Virginia. In 1861 the name was changed to + Fort Lyon, in honour of General Lyon, who was killed at the + battle of Wilson Creek, Missouri. In the spring of 1866, + the Arkansas River overflowed its banks, swept up into the + fort, and, undermining the walls, rendered it untenable for + military purposes. The camp was moved to a point twenty + miles below, and the new Fort Lyon established. The old + post was repaired, and used as a stage station by Barlow, + Sanderson, and Company, who ran a mail, express, and + passenger line between Kansas City and Santa Fe. + +The contiguous region to Fort William was in the early days a famous +hunting-ground. It abounded in nearly every variety of animal +indigenous to the mountains and plains, among which were the panther +--the so-called California lion of to-day--the lynx, erroneously termed +wild cat, white wolf, prairie wolf, silver-gray fox, prairie fox, +antelope, buffalo, gray, grizzly and cinnamon bears, together with +the common brown and black species, the red deer and the black-tail, +the latter the finest venison in the world. Of birds there were +wild turkeys, quail, and grouse, besides an endless variety of the +smaller-sized families, not regarded as belonging to the domain of +game in a hunter's sense. It was a veritable paradise, too, for the +trappers. Its numerous streams and creeks were famous for beaver, +otter, and mink. + +Scarcely an acre of the surrounding area within the radius of +hundreds of miles but has been the scene of many deadly encounters +with the wily red man, stories of which are still current among the +few old mountaineers yet living. + +The fort was six hundred and fifty miles west of Fort Leavenworth, +in latitude thirty-eight degrees and two minutes north, and longitude +one hundred and three degrees and three minutes west, from Greenwich. +The exterior walls of the fort, whose figure was that of a parallelogram, +were fifteen feet high and four feet thick. It was a hundred and +thirty-five feet wide and divided into various compartments. On the +northwest and southeast corners were hexagonal bastions, in which +were mounted a number of cannon. The walls of the building served +as the walls of the rooms, all of which faced inwards on a plaza, +after the general style of Mexican architecture. The roofs of the +rooms were made of poles, on which was a heavy layer of dirt, as in +the houses of native Mexicans to-day. The fort possessed a billiard +table, that visitors might amuse themselves, and in the office was +a small telescope with a fair range of seven miles. + +The occupants of the far-away establishment, in its palmy days +(for years it was the only building between Council Grove and the +mountains), were traders, Indians, hunters, and French trappers, +who were the employees of the great fur companies. Many of the latter +had Indian wives. Later, after a stage line had been put in operation +across the plains to Santa Fe, the fort was relegated to a mere +station for the overland route, and with the march of civilization +in its course westward, the trappers, hunters, and traders vanished +from the once famous rendezvous. + +The walls were loopholed for musketry, and the entrance to the plaza, +or corral, was guarded by large wooden gates. During the war with +Mexico, the fort was headquarters for the commissary department, +and many supplies were stored there, though the troops camped below +on the beautiful river-bottom. In the centre of the corral, in the +early days when the place was a rendezvous of the trappers, a large +buffalo-robe press was erected. When the writer first saw the famous +fort, now over a third of a century ago, one of the cannon, that +burst in firing a salute to General Kearney, could be seen half +buried in the dirt of the plaza. + +By barometrical measurements taken by the engineer officers of the +army at different times, the height of Bent's Fort above the ocean +level is approximately eight thousand nine hundred and fifty-eight +feet, and the fall of the Arkansas River from the fort to the great +bend of that stream, about three hundred and eleven miles east, +is seven feet and four-tenths per mile. + +It was in a relatively fair state of preservation thirty-three years +ago, but now not a vestige of it remains, excepting perhaps a mound +of dirt, the disintegration of the mud bricks of which the historical +structure was built. + +The Indians whose villages were located a few miles below the fort, +or at least the chief men of the various tribes, passed much of their +time within the shelter of the famous structure. They were bountifully +fed, and everything they needed furnished them. This was purely from +policy, however; for if their wishes were not gratified, their +hunters would not bring in their furs to trade. The principal chiefs +never failed to be present when a meal was announced as ready, and +however scarce provisions might be, the Indians must be fed. + +The first farm in the fertile and now valuable lands of the valley of +the Rio de las Animas[60] was opened by the Bents. The area selected +for cultivation was in the beautiful bottom between the fort and the +ford, a strip about a mile in length, and from one hundred and fifty +to six hundred feet in width. Nothing could be grown without irrigation, +and to that end an acequia, as the Mexicans call the ditch through +which the water flows, was constructed, and a crop put in. Before +the enterprising projectors of the scheme could reap a harvest, +the hostile savages dashed in and destroyed everything. + +Uncle John Smith was one of the principal traders back in the '30's, +and he was very successful, perhaps because he was undoubtedly the +most perfect master of the Cheyenne language at that time in the +whole mountain region. + +Among those who frequently came to the fort were Kit Carson, +L. B. Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, Baptiste Brown, Jim Bridger, +Old Bill Williams, James Beckwourth, Shawnee Spiebuck, Shawnee Jake +--the latter two, noted Indian trappers--besides a host of others. + +The majority of the old trappers, to a stranger, until he knew their +peculiar characteristics, were seemingly of an unsociable disposition. +It was an erroneous idea, however; for they were the most genial +companions imaginable, generous to a fault, and to fall into one of +their camps was indeed a lucky thing for the lost traveller. +Everything the host had was at his guest's disposal, and though +coffee and sugar were the dearest of his luxuries, often purchased +with a whole season's trapping, the black fluid was offered with +genuine free-heartedness, and the last plug of tobacco placed at the +disposition of his chance visitor, as though it could be picked up +on the ground anywhere. + +Goods brought by the traders to the rendezvous for sale to the +trappers and hunters, although of the most inferior quality, were +sold at enormously high prices. + +Coffee, by the pint-cup, which was the usual measure for everything, +cost from a dollar and twenty cents to three dollars; tobacco a dollar +and a half a plug; alcohol from two dollars to five dollars a pint; +gunpowder one dollar and sixty cents a pint-cup, and all other +articles at proportionably exorbitant rates. + +The annual gatherings of the trappers at the rendezvous were often +the scene of bloody duels; for over their cups and cards no men were +more quarrelsome than the old-time mountaineers. Rifles at twenty +paces settled all difficulties, and, as may be imagined, the fall +of one or the other of the combatants was certain, or, as sometimes +happened, both fell at the word "Fire!" + +The trapper's visits to the Mexican settlements, or to the lodges +of a tribe of Indians, for the purpose of trading, often resulted +in his returning to his quiet camp with a woman to grace his solitary +home, the loving and lonely couple as devoted to each other in the +midst of blood-thirsty enemies, howling wolves, and panthers, as if +they were in some quiet country village. + +The easy manners of the harum-scarum, reckless trappers at the +rendezvous, and the simple, unsuspecting hearts of those nymphs of +the mountains, the squaws, caused their husbands to be very jealous +of the attentions bestowed upon them by strangers. Often serious +difficulties arose, in the course of which the poor wife received +a severe whipping with the knot of a lariat, or no very light +lodge-poling at the hands of her imperious sovereign. Sometimes +the affair ended in a more tragical way than a mere beating, not +infrequently the gallant paying the penalty of his interference with +his life. + +Garrard, a traveller on the great plains and in the Rocky Mountains +half a century ago, from whose excellent diary I have frequently +quoted, passed many days and nights at Bent's Fort fifty years ago, +and his quaint description of life there in that remote period of +the extreme frontier is very amusing. Its truth has often been +confirmed by Uncle John Smith, who was my guide and interpreter in +the Indian expedition of 1868-69, only two decades after Garrard's +experience. + +Rosalie, a half-breed French and Indian squaw, wife of the carpenter, +and Charlotte, the culinary divinity, were, as a Missouri teamster +remarked, "the only female women here." They were nightly led to +the floor to trip the light fantastic toe, and swung rudely or gently +in the mazes of the contra-dance, but such a medley of steps is +seldom seen out of the mountains--the halting, irregular march of the +war-dance, the slipping gallopade, the boisterous pitching of the +Missouri backwoodsman, and the more nice gyrations of the Frenchman; +for all, irrespective of rank, age, or colour, went pell-mell into +the excitement, in a manner that would have rendered a leveller of +aristocracies and select companies frantic with delight. And the +airs assumed by the fair ones, more particularly Charlotte, who took +pattern from life in the States, were amusing. She acted her part +to perfection; she was the centre of attraction, the belle of the +evening. She treated the suitors for the pleasure of the next set +with becoming ease and suavity of manner; she knew her worth, and +managed accordingly. When the favoured gallant stood by her side +waiting for the rudely scraped tune from a screeching fiddle, +satisfaction, joy, and triumph over his rivals were pictured on his +radiant face. + +James Hobbs, of whom I have already spoken, once gave me a graphic +description of the annual feast of the Comanches, Cheyennes, and +Arapahoes, which always took place at Big Timbers, near Fort William. + +Hobbs was married to the daughter of Old Wolf, the chief of the +Comanches, a really beautiful Indian girl, with whom he lived +faithfully many years. In the early summer of 1835, he went with his +father-in-law and the rest of the tribe to the great feast of that +season. He stated that on that occasion there were forty thousand +Indians assembled, and consequently large hunting parties were sent +out daily to procure food for such a vast host. The entertainment +was kept up for fifteen days, enlivened by horse races, foot races, +and playing ball. In these races the tribes would bet their horses +on the result, the Comanches generally winning, for they are the best +riders in the world. By the time the feast was ended, the Arapahoes +and Cheyennes usually found themselves afoot, but Old Wolf, who was a +generous fellow, always gave them back enough animals to get home with. + +The game of ball was played with crooked sticks, and is very much +like the American boys' "shinny." The participants are dressed in +a simple breech-cloth and moccasins. It is played with great +enthusiasm and affords much amusement. + +At these annual feasts a council of the great chiefs of the three +tribes is always held, and at the one during the season referred to, +Hobbs said the Cheyenne chiefs wanted Old Wolf to visit Bent's Fort, +where he had never been. Upon the arrival of the delegation there, +it was heartily welcomed by all the famous men who happened to be at +the place, among whom were Kit Carson, Old John Smith, and several +noted trappers. Whiskey occupied a prominent place in the rejoicing, +and "I found it hard work," said Hobbs, "to stand the many toasts +drank to my good health." The whole party, including Old Wolf and +his companion the Cheyenne chief, got very much elated, and every +person in the fort smelt whiskey, if they did not get their feet +tangled with it. + +About midnight a messenger came inside, reporting that a thousand +Comanche warriors were gathering around the fort. They demanded +their leaders, fearing treachery, and desired to know why their chief +had not returned. Hobbs went out and explained that he was safe; +but they insisted on seeing him, so he and Hobbs showed themselves +to the assembled Indians, and Old Wolf made a speech, telling them +that he and the Cheyenne chief were among good friends to the Indians, +and presents would be given to them the next morning. The warriors +were pacified with these assurances, though they did not leave the +vicinity of the fort. + +It was at this time that Hobbs was ransomed by Colonel Bent, who gave +Old Wolf, for him, six yards of red flannel, a pound of tobacco, and +an ounce of beads. + +The chief was taken in charge by a lieutenant, who showed him all +over the fort, letting him see the rifle port-holes, and explaining +how the place could stand a siege against a thousand Indians. Finally, +he was taken out on the parapet, where there was a six-pounder at +each angle. The old savage inquired how they could shoot such a thing, +and at Hobbs' request, a blank cartridge was put in the piece and +fired. Old Wolf sprang back in amazement, and the Indians on the +outside, under the walls, knowing nothing of what was going on, +ran away as fast as their legs could carry them, convinced that +their chief must be dead now and their own safety dependent upon +flight. Old Wolf and Hobbs sprang upon the wall and signalled and +shouted to them, and they returned, asking in great astonishment +what kind of a monstrous gun it was. + +About noon trading commenced. The Indians wished to come into the +fort, but Bent would not let any enter but the chiefs. At the back +door the colonel displayed his goods, and the Indians brought forward +their ponies, buffalo-robes, deer and other skins, which they traded +for tobacco, beads, calico, flannel, knives, spoons, whistles, +jews'-harps, etc. + +Whiskey was sold to them the first day, but as it caused several +fights among them before night, Bent stopped its sale, at Hobbs' +suggestion and with Old Wolf's consent. Indians, when they get drunk, +do not waste time by fighting with fists, like white men, but use +knives and tomahawks; so that a general scrimmage is a serious affair. +Two or three deaths resulted the first day, and there would have been +many more if the sale of whiskey had not been stopped. + +The trading continued for eight days, and Colonel Bent reaped a rich +harvest of what he could turn into gold at St. Louis. Old Wolf slept +in the fort each night except one during that time, and every time +his warriors aroused him about twelve o'clock and compelled him to +show himself on the walls to satisfy them of his safety. + +About a hundred trappers were in the employ of Bent and his partners. +Sometimes one-half of the company were off on a hunt, leaving but +a small force at the fort for its protection, but with the small +battery there its defence was considered sufficient. + +One day a trapping party, consisting of Kit Carson, "Peg-leg" Smith, +and James Hobbs, together with some Shawnee Indians, all under the +lead of Carson, started out from Bent's Fort for the Picketwire to +trap beaver. + +Grizzlies were very abundant in that region then, and one of the +party, named McIntire, having killed an elk the evening before, said +to Hobbs that they might stand a good chance to find a grizzly by +the elk he had shot but had not brought in. Hobbs said that he was +willing to go with him, but as McIntire was a very green man in the +mountains, Hobbs had some doubts of depending on him in case of an +attack by a grizzly bear. + +The two men left for the ravine in which McIntire had killed the elk +very early in the morning, taking with them tomahawks, hunting-knives, +rifles, and a good dog. On arriving at the ravine, Hobbs told +McIntire to cross over to the other side and climb the hill, but on +no account to go down into the ravine, as a grizzly is more dangerous +when he has a man on the downhill side. Hobbs then went to where he +thought the elk might be if he had died by the bank of the stream; +but as soon as he came near the water, he saw that a large grizzly +had got there before him, having scented the animal, and was already +making his breakfast. + +The bear was in thick, scrubby oak brush, and Hobbs, making his dog +lie down, crawled behind a rock to get a favourable shot at the beast. +He drew a bead on him and fired, but the bear only snarled at the +wound made by the ball and started tearing through the brush, biting +furiously at it as he went. Hobbs reloaded his rifle carefully, +and as quickly as he could, in order to get a second shot; but, +to his amazement, he saw the bear rushing down the ravine chasing +McIntire, who was only about ten feet in advance of the enraged beast, +running for his life, and making as much noise as a mad bull. He was +terribly scared, and Hobbs hastened to his rescue, first sending his +dog ahead. + +Just as the dog reached the bear, McIntire darted behind a tree and +flung his hat in the bear's face, at the same time sticking his +rifle toward him. The old grizzly seized the muzzle of the gun in +his teeth, and, as it was loaded and cocked, it either went off +accidentally or otherwise and blew the bear's head open, just as the +dog had fastened on his hindquarters. Hobbs ran to the assistance +of his comrade with all haste, but he was out of danger and had sat +down a few rods away, with his face as white as a sheet, a badly +frightened man. + +After that fearful scare, McIntire would cook or do anything, but +said he never intended to make a business of bear-hunting; he had +only wished for one adventure, and this one had satisfied him. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. +PAWNEE ROCK. + + + +That portion of the great central plains which radiates from +Pawnee Rock, including the Big Bend of the Arkansas, thirteen miles +distant, where that river makes a sudden sweep to the southeast, +and the beautiful valley of the Walnut, in all its vast area of +more than a million square acres, was from time immemorial a sort of +debatable land, occupied by none of the Indian tribes, but claimed +by all to hunt in; for it was a famous pasturage of the buffalo. + +None of the various bands had the temerity to attempt its permanent +occupancy; for whenever hostile tribes met there, which was of +frequent occurrence, in their annual hunt for their winter's supply +of meat, a bloody battle was certain to ensue. The region referred +to has been the scene of more sanguinary conflicts between the +different Indians of the plains, perhaps, than any other portion +of the continent. Particularly was it the arena of war to the death, +when the Pawnees met their hereditary enemies, the Cheyennes. + +Pawnee Rock was a spot well calculated by nature to form, as it +has done, an important rendezvous and ambuscade for the prowling +savages of the prairies, and often afforded them, especially the +once powerful and murderous Pawnees whose name it perpetuates, +a pleasant little retreat or eyrie from which to watch the passing +Santa Fe traders, and dash down upon them like hawks, to carry off +their plunder and their scalps. + +Through this once dangerous region, close to the silent Arkansas, +and running under the very shadow of the rock, the Old Trail wound +its course. Now, at this point, it is the actual road-bed of the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, so strangely are the past +and present transcontinental highways connected here. + +Who, among bearded and grizzled old fellows like myself, has forgotten +that most sensational of all the miserably executed illustrations +in the geographies of fifty years ago, "The Santa Fe Traders attacked +by Indians"? The picture located the scene of the fight at Pawnee +Rock, which formed a sort of nondescript shadow in the background +of a crudely drawn representation of the dangers of the Trail. + +If this once giant sentinel[61] of the plains might speak, what a +story it could tell of the events that have happened on the beautiful +prairie stretching out for miles at its feet! + +In the early fall, when the rock was wrapped in the soft amber haze +which is a distinguishing characteristic of the incomparable Indian +summer on the plains; or in the spring, when the mirage weaves its +mysterious shapes, it loomed up in the landscape as if it were a huge +mountain, and to the inexperienced eye appeared as if it were the +abrupt ending of a well-defined range. But when the frost came, +and the mists were dispelled; when the thin fringe of timber on the +Walnut, a few miles distant, had doffed its emerald mantle, and +the grass had grown yellow and rusty, then in the golden sunlight +of winter, the rock sank down to its normal proportions, and cut +the clear blue of the sky with sharply marked lines. + +In the days when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, the Pawnees +were the most formidable tribe on the eastern central plains, and +the freighters and trappers rarely escaped a skirmish with them +either at the crossing of the Walnut, Pawnee Rock, the Fork of the +Pawnee, or at Little and Big Coon creeks. To-day what is left of +the historic hill looks down only upon peaceful homes and fruitful +fields, whereas for hundreds of years it witnessed nothing but battle +and death, and almost every yard of brown sod at its base covered +a skeleton. In place of the horrid yell of the infuriated savage, +as he wrenched off the reeking scalp of his victim, the whistle of +the locomotive and the pleasant whirr of the reaping-machine is heard; +where the death-cry of the painted warrior rang mournfully over +the silent prairie, the waving grain is singing in beautiful rhythm +as it bows to the summer breeze. + +Pawnee Rock received its name in a baptism of blood, but there are +many versions as to the time and sponsors. It was there that Kit +Carson killed his first Indian, and from that fight, as he told me +himself, the broken mass of red sandstone was given its distinctive +title. + +It was late in the spring of 1826; Kit was then a mere boy, only +seventeen years old, and as green as any boy of his age who had never +been forty miles from the place where he was born. Colonel Ceran +St. Vrain, then a prominent agent of one of the great fur companies, +was fitting out an expedition destined for the far-off Rocky Mountains, +the members of which, all trappers, were to obtain the skins of the +buffalo, beaver, otter, mink, and other valuable fur-bearing animals +that then roamed in immense numbers on the vast plains or in the +hills, and were also to trade with the various tribes of Indians on +the borders of Mexico. + +Carson joined this expedition, which was composed of twenty-six +mule wagons, some loose stock, and forty-two men. The boy was hired +to help drive the extra animals, hunt game, stand guard, and to make +himself generally useful, which, of course, included fighting Indians +if any were met with on the long route. + +The expedition left Fort Osage one bright morning in May in excellent +spirits, and in a few hours turned abruptly to the west on the broad +Trail to the mountains. The great plains in those early days were +solitary and desolate beyond the power of description; the Arkansas +River sluggishly followed the tortuous windings of its treeless banks +with a placidness that was awful in its very silence; and whoso +traced the wanderings of that stream with no companion but his own +thoughts, realized in all its intensity the depth of solitude from +which Robinson Crusoe suffered on his lonely island. Illimitable as +the ocean, the weary waste stretched away until lost in the purple of +the horizon, and the mirage created weird pictures in the landscape, +distorted distances and objects which continually annoyed and deceived. +Despite its loneliness, however, there was then, and ever has been +for many men, an infatuation for those majestic prairies that once +experienced is never lost, and it came to the boyish heart of Kit, +who left them but with life, and full of years. + +There was not much variation in the eternal sameness of things during +the first two weeks, as the little train moved day after day through +the wilderness of grass, its ever-rattling wheels only intensifying +the surrounding monotony. Occasionally, however, a herd of buffalo +was discovered in the distance, their brown, shaggy sides contrasting +with the never-ending sea of verdure around them. Then young Kit, +and two or three others of the party who were detailed to supply +the teamsters and trappers with meat, would ride out after them on +the best of the extra horses which were always kept saddled and tied +together behind the last wagon for services of this kind. Kit, who +was already an excellent horseman and a splendid shot with the rifle, +would soon overtake them, and topple one after another of their huge +fat carcasses over on the prairie until half a dozen or more were +lying dead. The tender humps, tongues, and other choice portions +were then cut out and put in a wagon which had by that time reached +them from the train, and the expedition rolled on. + +So they marched for about three weeks, when they arrived at the +crossing of the Walnut, where they saw the first signs of Indians. +They had halted for that day; the mules were unharnessed, the +camp-fires lighted, and the men just about to indulge in their +refreshing coffee, when suddenly half a dozen Pawnees, mounted on +their ponies, hideously painted and uttering the most demoniacal +yells, rushed out of the tall grass on the river-bottom, where they +had been ambushed, and swinging their buffalo-robes, attempted to +stampede the herd picketed near the camp. The whole party were on +their feet in an instant with rifles in hand, and all the savages +got for their trouble were a few well-deserved shots as they hurriedly +scampered back to the river and over into the sand hills on the other +side, soon to be out of sight. + +The expedition travelled sixteen miles next day, and camped at +Pawnee Rock, where, after the experience of the evening before, +every precaution was taken to prevent a surprise by the savages. +The wagons were formed into a corral, so that the animals could be +secured in the event of a prolonged fight; the guards were drilled +by the colonel, and every man slept with his rifle for a bed-fellow, +for the old trappers knew that the Indians would never remain +satisfied with their defeat on the Walnut, but would seize the first +favourable opportunity to renew their attack. + +At dark the sentinels were placed in position, and to young Kit fell +the important post immediately in front of the south face of the +Rock, nearly two hundred yards from the corral; the others being at +prominent points on top, and on the open prairie on either side. +All who were not on duty had long since been snoring heavily, +rolled up in their blankets and buffalo-robes, when at about half-past +eleven, one of the guard gave the alarm, "Indians!" and ran the mules +that were nearest him into the corral. In a moment the whole company +turned out at the report of a rifle ringing on the clear night air, +coming from the direction of the rock. The men had gathered at +the opening to the corral, waiting for developments, when Kit came +running in, and as soon as he was near enough, the colonel asked him +whether he had seen any Indians. "Yes," Kit replied, "I killed one +of the red devils; I saw him fall!" + +The alarm proved to be false; there was no further disturbance that +night, so the party returned to their beds, and the sentinels to +their several posts, Kit of course to his place in front of the Rock. + +Early the next morning, before breakfast even, all were so anxious +to see Kit's dead Indian, that they went out en masse to where he was +still stationed, and instead of finding a painted Pawnee, as was +expected, they found the boy's riding mule dead, shot right through +the head. + +Kit felt terribly mortified over his ridiculous blunder, and it was +a long time before he heard the last of his midnight adventure and +his raid on his own mule. But he always liked to tell the "balance +of the story," as he termed it, and this is his version: "I had not +slept any the night before, for I stayed awake watching to get a +shot at the Pawnees that tried to stampede our animals, expecting +they would return; and I hadn't caught a wink all day, as I was out +buffalo hunting, so I was awfully tired and sleepy when we arrived +at Pawnee Rock that evening, and when I was posted at my place at +night, I must have gone to sleep leaning against the rocks; at any +rate, I was wide enough awake when the cry of Indians was given by +one of the guard. I had picketed my mule about twenty steps from +where I stood, and I presume he had been lying down; all I remember +is that the first thing I saw after the alarm was something rising up +out of the grass, which I thought was an Indian. I pulled the trigger; +it was a centre shot, and I don't believe the mule ever kicked after +he was hit!" + +The next morning about daylight, a band of Pawnees attacked the train +in earnest, and kept the little command busy all that day, the next +night, and until the following midnight, nearly three whole days, +the mules all the time being shut in the corral without food or water. +At midnight of the second day the colonel ordered the men to hitch up +and attempt to drive on to the crossing of Pawnee Fork, thirteen miles +distant.[62] They succeeded in getting there, fighting their way +without the loss of any of their men or animals. The Trail crossed +the creek in the shape of a horseshoe, or rather, in consequence of +the double bend of the stream as it empties into the Arkansas, the +road crossed it twice. In making this passage, dangerous on account +of its crookedness, Kit said many of the wagons were badly mashed up; +for the mules were so thirsty that their drivers could not control +them. The train was hardly strung out on the opposite bank when +the Indians poured in a volley of bullets and a shower of arrows +from both sides of the Trail; but before they could load and fire +again, a terrific charge was on them, led by Colonel St. Vrain and +Carson. It required only a few moments more to clean out the +persistent savages, and the train went on. During the whole fight +the little party lost four men killed and seven wounded, and eleven +mules killed (not counting Kit's), and twenty badly wounded. + +A great many years ago, very early in the days of the trade with +New Mexico, seven Americans were surprised by a large band of Pawnees +in the vicinity of the Rock and were compelled to retreat to it for +safety. There, without water, and with but a small quantity of +provisions, they were besieged by their blood-thirsty foes for two +days, when a party of traders coming on the Trail relieved them from +their perilous situation and the presence of their enemy. There were +several graves on its summit when I first saw Pawnee Rock; but +whether they contained the bones of savages or those of white men, +I do not know. + +Carson related to me another terrible fight that took place at the +rock, when he first became a trapper. He was not a participant, +but knew the parties well. About twenty-nine years ago, Kit, Jack +Henderson, who was agent for the Ute Indians, Lucien B. Maxwell, +General Carleton and myself were camped halfway up the rugged sides +of Old Baldy, in the Raton Range. The night was intensely cold, +although in midsummer, and we were huddled around a little fire of +pine knots, more than seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, +close to the snow limit. + +Kit, or "the General," as every one called him, was in a good humour +for talking, and we naturally took advantage of this to draw him out; +for usually he was the most reticent of men in relating his own +exploits. A casual remark made by Maxwell opened Carson's mouth, +and he said he remembered one of the "worst difficults" a man ever +got into.[63] So he made a fresh corn-shuck cigarette, and related +the following; but the names of the old trappers who were the +principals in the fight I have unfortunately forgotten. + +Two men had been trapping in the Powder River country during one +winter with unusually good luck, and they got an early start with +their furs, which they were going to take to Weston, on the Missouri, +one of the principal trading points in those days. They walked the +whole distance, driving their pack-mules before them, and experienced +no trouble until they struck the Arkansas valley at Pawnee Rock. +There they were intercepted by a war-party of about sixty Pawnees. +Both of the trappers were notoriously brave and both dead shots. +Before they arrived at the rock, to which they were finally driven, +they killed two of the Indians, and had not themselves received a +scratch. They had plenty of powder, a pouch full of balls each, +and two good rifles. They also had a couple of jack-rabbits for +food in case of a siege, and the perpendicular walls of the front +of the rock made them a natural fortification, an almost impregnable +one against Indians. + +They succeeded in securely picketing their animals at the side of +the rock, where they could protect them by their unerring rifles +from being stampeded. After the Pawnees had "treed" the two trappers +on the rock, they picked up their dead, and packed them off to their +camp at the mouth of a little ravine a short distance away. In a few +moments back they all came, mounted on fast ponies, with their +war-paint and other fixings on, ready to renew the fight. They +commenced to circle around the place, coming closer, Indian fashion, +every time, until they got within easy rifle-range, when they slung +themselves on the opposite sides of their horses, and in that position +opened fire. Their arrows fell like a hailstorm, but as good luck +would have it, none of them struck, and the balls from their rifles +were wild, as the Indians in those days were not very good shots; +the rifle was a new weapon to them. The trappers at first were +afraid the savages would surely try to kill the mules, but soon +reflected that the Indians believed they had the "dead-wood" on them, +and the mules would come handy after they had been scalped; so they +felt satisfied their animals were safe for a while anyhow. The men +were taking in all the chances, however; both kept their eyes skinned, +and whenever one of them saw a stray leg or head, he drew a bead +on it and when he pulled the trigger, its owner tumbled over with +a yell of rage from his companions. + +Whenever the savages attempted to carry off their dead,[64] the two +trappers took advantage of the opportunity, and poured in their +shots every time with telling effect. + +By this time night had fallen, and the Indians did not seem anxious +to renew the fight after dark; but they kept their mounted patrols +on every side of the rock, at a respectable distance from such dead +shots, watching to prevent the escape of the besieged. As they were +hungry, one of the men went down under cover of the darkness to get +a few buffalo-chips with which to cook their rabbit, and to change +the animals to where they could get fresh grass. He returned safely +to the summit of the rock, where a little fire was made and their +supper prepared. They had to go without water all the time, and so +did the mules; the men did not mind the want of it themselves, but +they could not help pitying their poor animals that had had none +since they left camp early that morning. It was no use to worry, +though; the nearest water was at the river, and it would have been +certain death to have attempted to go there unless the savages +cleared out, and from all appearances they had no idea of doing that. + +What gave the trappers more cause for alarm than anything else, +was the fear that the Indians would fire the prairie in the morning, +and endeavour to smoke them out or burn them up. The grass was in +just the condition to make a lively blaze, and they might escape +the flames, and then they might not. It can well be imagined how +eagerly they watched for the dawn of another day, perhaps the last +for them. + +The first gray streaks of light had hardly peeped above the horizon, +when, with an infernal yell, the Indians broke for the rock, and +the trappers were certain that some new project had entered their +heads. The wind was springing up pretty freshly, and nature seemed +to conspire with the red devils, if they really meant to burn the +trappers out; and from the movements of the savages, that was what +they expected. The Indians kept at a respectful distance from the +range of the trappers' rifles, who chafed because they could not +stop some of the infernal yelling with a few well-directed bullets, +but they had to choke their rage, and watch events closely. During +a temporary lull in hostilities, one of the trappers took occasion +to crawl down to where the mules were, and shift them to the west +side of the rock, where the wall was the highest; so that the flame +and smoke might possibly pass by them without so much danger as where +they were picketed before. He had just succeeded in doing this, +and, tearing up the long grass for several yards around the animals, +was in the act of going back, when his partner yelled out to him: +"Look out! D---n 'em, they've fired the prairie!" He was back on +the top of the rock in another moment, and took in at a glance what +was coming. + +The spectacle for a short interval was indescribably grand; the sun +was shining with all the power of its rays on the huge clouds of smoke +as they rolled down from the north, tinting them a glorious crimson. +The two trappers had barely time to get under the shelter of a large +projecting point of the rocky wall, when the wind and smoke swept +down to the ground, and instantly they were enveloped in the darkness +of midnight. They could not discern a single object; neither Indians, +horses, the prairie, nor the sun; and what a terrible wind! + +The trappers stood breathless, clinging to the projections of rock, +and did not realize the fire was so near them until they were struck +in the face by pieces of burning buffalo-chips that were carried +toward them with the rapidity of the awful wind. They were now badly +scared, for it seemed as if they were to be suffocated. They were +saved, however, almost miraculously; the sheet of flame passed them +twenty yards away, as the wind fortunately shifted at the moment +the fire reached the foot of the rock. The darkness was so intense +that they did not discover the flame; they only knew that they were +saved as the clear sky greeted them from behind the dense smoke-cloud. + +Two of the Indians and their horses were caught in their own trap, +and perished miserably. They had attempted to reach the east side +of the rock, so as to steal around to the other side where the mules +were, and either cut them loose or crawl up on the trappers while +bewildered in the smoke and kill them, if they were not already dead. +But they had proceeded only a few rods on their little expedition, +when the terrible darkness of the smoke-cloud overtook them and soon +the flames, from which there was no possible escape. + +All the game on the prairie which the fire swept over was killed too. +Only a few buffalo were visible in that region before the fire, but +even they were killed. The path of the flames, as was discovered by +the caravans that passed over the Trail a few days afterward, was +marked with the crisp and blackened carcasses of wolves, coyotes, +turkeys, grouse, and every variety of small birds indigenous to the +region. Indeed, it seemed as if no living thing it had met escaped +its fury. The fire assumed such gigantic proportions, and moved +with such rapidity before the wind, that even the Arkansas River +did not check its path for a moment; it was carried as readily across +as if the stream had not been in its way. + +The first thought of the trappers on the rock was for their poor +mules. One crawled to where they were, and found them badly singed, +but not seriously injured. The men began to brighten up again when +they knew that their means of transportation were relatively all +right, and themselves also, and they took fresh courage, beginning +to believe they should get out of their bad scrape after all. + +In the meantime the Indians, with the exception of three or four +left to guard the rock, so as to prevent the trappers from getting +away, had gone back to their camp in the ravine, and were evidently +concocting some new scheme for the discomfort of the besieged +trappers. The latter waited patiently two or three hours for the +development of events, snatching a little sleep by turns, which they +needed much; for both were worn out by their constant watching. +At last when the sun was about three hours high, the Indians commenced +their infernal howling again, and then the trappers knew they had +decided upon something; so they were on the alert in a moment to +discover what it was, and euchre them if possible. + +The devils this time had tied all their ponies together, covered +them with branches of trees that they had gone up on the Walnut for, +packed some lodge-skins on these, and then, driving the living +breastworks before them, moved toward the rock. They proceeded +cautiously but surely, and matters began to look very serious for +the trappers. As the strange cavalcade approached, a trapper raised +his rifle, and a masked pony tumbled over on the scorched sod dead. +As one of the Indians ran to cut him loose, the other trapper took +him off his feet by a well-directed shot; he never uttered a groan. +The besieged now saw their only salvation was to kill the ponies +and so demoralize the Indians that they would have to abandon such +tactics, and quicker than I can tell it, they had stretched four +more out on the prairie, and made it so hot for the savages that +they ran out of range and began to hold a council of war. + +Finding that their plan would not work--for as the last pony was shot, +the rest stampeded and were running wild over the prairie--the Indians +soon went back to their camp again, and the trappers now had a few +spare moments in which to take an account of stock. They discovered, +much to their chagrin, that they had used up all their ammunition +except three or four loads, and despair hovered over them once more. + +The Indians did not reappear that evening, and the cause was apparent; +for in the distance could be seen a long line of wagons, one of the +large American caravans en route to Santa Fe. The savages had seen +it before the trappers, and had cleared out. When the train arrived +opposite the rock, the relieved men came down from their little +fortress, joined the caravan, and camped with the Americans that +night on the Walnut. While they were resting around their camp-fire, +smoking and telling of their terrible experience on the top of the +rock, the Indians could be heard chanting the death-song while they +were burying their warriors under the blackened sod of the prairie. + +I witnessed a spirited encounter between a small band of Cheyennes +and Pawnees in the fall of 1867. It occurred on the open prairie +north of the mouth of the Walnut, and not a great distance from +Pawnee Rock. Both tribes were hunting buffalo, and when they, +by accident, discovered the presence of each other, with a yell +that fairly shook the sand dunes on the Arkansas, they rushed at once +into the shock of battle. + +That night, in a timbered bend of the Walnut, the victors had a grand +dance, in which scalps, ears, and fingers of their enemies, suspended +by strings to long poles, were important accessories to their weird +orgies around their huge camp-fires.[65] + +One of the most horrible massacres in the history of the Trail +occurred at Little Cow Creek in the summer of 1864. In July of that +year a government caravan, loaded with military stores for Fort Union +in New Mexico, left Fort Leavenworth for the long and dangerous +journey of more than seven hundred miles over the great plains, +which that season were infested by Indians to a degree almost without +precedent in the annals of freight traffic. + +The train was owned by a Mr. H. C. Barret, a contractor with the +quartermaster's department; but he declined to take the chances of +the trip unless the government would lease the outfit in its entirety, +or give him an indemnifying bond as assurance against any loss. +The chief quartermaster executed the bond as demanded, and Barret +hired his teamsters for the hazardous journey; but he found it a +difficult matter to induce men to go out that season. + +Among those whom he persuaded to enter his employ was a mere boy, +named McGee, who came wandering into Leavenworth a few weeks before +the train was ready to leave, seeking work of any description. +His parents had died on their way to Kansas, and on his arrival at +Westport Landing, the emigrant outfit that had extended to him +shelter and protection in his utter loneliness was disbanded; so the +youthful orphan was thrown on his own resources. At that time the +Indians of the great plains, especially along the line of the Santa Fe +Trail, were very hostile, and continually harassing the freight +caravans and stage-coaches of the overland route. Companies of men +were enlisting and being mustered into the United States service to +go out after the savages, and young Robert McGee volunteered with +hundreds of others for the dangerous duty. The government needed +men badly, but McGee's youth militated against him, and he was below +the required stature; so he was rejected by the mustering officer. + +Mr. Barret, in hunting for teamsters to drive his caravan, came +across McGee, who, supposing that he was hiring as a government +employee, accepted Mr. Barret's offer. + +By the last day of June the caravan was all ready, and on the morning +of the next day, July 1, the wagons rolled out of the fort, escorted +by a company of United States troops, from the volunteers referred to. + +The caravan wound its weary way over the lonesome Trail with nothing +to relieve the monotony save a few skirmishes with the Indians; but +no casualties occurred in these insignificant battles, the savages +being afraid to venture too near on account of the presence of the +military escort. + +On the 18th of July, the caravan arrived in the vicinity of Fort +Larned. There it was supposed that the proximity of that military +post would be a sufficient guarantee from any attack of the savages; +so the men of the train became careless, and as the day was excessively +hot, they went into camp early in the afternoon, the escort remaining +in bivouac about a mile in the rear of the train. + +About five o'clock, a hundred and fifty painted savages, under the +command of Little Turtle of the Brule Sioux, swooped down on the +unsuspecting caravan while the men were enjoying their evening meal. +Not a moment was given them to rally to the defence of their lives, +and of all belonging to the outfit, with the exception of one boy, +not a soul came out alive. + +The teamsters were every one of them shot dead and their bodies +horribly mutilated. After their successful raid, the savages +destroyed everything they found in the wagons, tearing the covers +into shreds, throwing the flour on the trail, and winding up by +burning everything that was combustible. + +On the same day the commanding officer of Fort Larned had learned +from some of his scouts that the Brule Sioux were on the war-path, +and the chief of the scouts with a handful of soldiers was sent out +to reconnoitre. They soon struck the trail of Little Turtle and +followed it to the scene of the massacre on Cow Creek, arriving +there only two hours after the savages had finished their devilish +work. Dead men were lying about in the short buffalo-grass which +had been stained and matted by their flowing blood, and the agonized +posture of their bodies told far more forcibly than any language +the tortures which had come before a welcome death. All had been +scalped; all had been mutilated in that nameless manner which seems +to delight the brutal instincts of the North American savage. + +Moving slowly from one to the other of the lifeless forms which +still showed the agony of their death-throes, the chief of the scouts +came across the bodies of two boys, both of whom had been scalped +and shockingly wounded, besides being mutilated, yet, strange to say, +both of them were alive. As tenderly as the men could lift them, +they were conveyed at once back to Fort Larned and given in charge +of the post surgeon. One of the boys died in a few hours after his +arrival in the hospital, but the other, Robert McGee, slowly regained +his strength, and came out of the ordeal in fairly good health. + +The story of the massacre was related by young McGee, after he was +able to talk, while in the hospital at the fort; for he had not +lost consciousness during the suffering to which he was subjected +by the savages. + +He was compelled to witness the tortures inflicted on his wounded and +captive companions, after which he was dragged into the presence of +the chief, Little Turtle, who determined that he would kill the boy +with his own hands. He shot him in the back with his own revolver, +having first knocked him down with a lance handle. He then drove +two arrows through the unfortunate boy's body, fastening him to the +ground, and stooping over his prostrate form ran his knife around +his head, lifting sixty-four square inches of his scalp, trimming +it off just behind his ears. + +Believing him dead by that time, Little Turtle abandoned his victim; +but the other savages, as they went by his supposed corpse, could not +resist their infernal delight in blood, so they thrust their knives +into him, and bored great holes in his body with their lances. + +After the savages had done all that their devilish ingenuity could +contrive, they exultingly rode away, yelling as they bore off the +reeking scalps of their victims, and drove away the hundreds of mules +they had captured. + +When the tragedy was ended, the soldiers, who had from their +vantage-ground witnessed the whole diabolical transaction, came up +to the bloody camp by order of their commander, to learn whether +the teamsters had driven away their assailants, and saw too late +what their cowardice had allowed to take place. The officer in +command of the escort was dismissed the service, as he could not +give any satisfactory reason for not going to the rescue of the +caravan he had been ordered to guard. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. +FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. + + + +The Wagon Mound, so called from its resemblance to a covered army-wagon, +is a rocky mesa forty miles from Point of Rocks, westwardly. +The stretch of the Trail from the latter to the mound has been +the scene of some desperate encounters, only exceeded in number +and sanguinary results by those which have occurred in the region of +Pawnee Rock, the crossing of the Walnut, Pawnee Fork, and Cow Creek. + +One of the most remarkable stories of this Wagon Mound country dealt +with the nerve and bravery exhibited by John L. Hatcher in defence +of his life, and those of the men in his caravan, about 1858. + +Hatcher was a noted trader and merchant of New Mexico. He was also +celebrated as an Indian fighter, and his name was a terror to the +savages who infested the settlements of New Mexico and raided the Trail. + +He left Taos, where he then resided, in the summer, with his caravan +loaded with furs and pelts destined for Westport Landing; to be +forwarded from there to St. Louis, the only market for furs in the +far West. His train was a small one, comprising about fifteen wagons +and handled by about as many men, including himself. At the date +of his adventure the Indians were believed to be at peace with +everybody; a false idea, as Hatcher well knew, for there never was +such a condition of affairs as absolute immunity from their attacks. +While it might be true that the old men refrained for a time from +starting out on the war-path, there were ever the vastly greater +number of restless young warriors who had not yet earned their eagle +feathers, who could not be controlled by their chiefs, and who were +always engaged in marauding, either among the border settlements +or along the line of the Trail. + +When Hatcher was approaching the immediate vicinity of Wagon Mound,[66] +with his train strung out in single column, to his great astonishment +there suddenly charged on him from over the hill about three hundred +savages, all feather-bedecked and painted in the highest style of +Indian art. As they rode toward the caravan, they gave the sign +of peace, which Hatcher accepted for the time as true, although he +knew them well. However, he invited the head men to some refreshment, +as was usual on such occasions in those days, throwing a blanket +on the ground, on which sugar in abundance was served out. +The sweet-toothed warriors helped themselves liberally, and affected +much delight at the way they were being treated; but Hatcher, with +his knowledge of the savage character, was firm in the belief that +they came for no other purpose than to rob the caravan and kill him +and his men. + +They were Comanches, and one of the most noted chiefs of the tribe +was in command of the band, with some inferior chiefs under him. +I think it was Old Wolf, a very old man then, whose raids into Texas +had made his name a terror to the Mexicans living on the border. + +While the chiefs were eating their saccharine lunch, Hatcher was +losing no time in forming his wagons into a corral, but he told his +friends afterward that he had no idea that either he or any of his +men would escape; only fifteen or sixteen men against over three +hundred merciless savages, and those the worst on the continent, +and a small corral--the chances were totally hopeless! Nothing but +a desperate action could avail, and maybe not even that.[67] Hatcher, +after the other head men had finished eating, asked the old chief +to send his young warriors away over the hill. They were all sitting +close to one of the wagons, Old Wolf, in fact, leaning against the +wheel resting on his blanket, with Hatcher next him on his right. +Hatcher was so earnest in his appeal to have the young men sent away, +that both the venerable villain and his other chiefs rose and were +standing. Without a moment's notice or the slightest warning, +Hatcher reached with his left hand and grabbed Old Wolf by his +scalp-lock, and with his right drew his butcher-knife from its +scabbard and thrust it at the throat of the chief. All this was +done in an instant, as quick as lightning; no one had time to move. +The situation was remarkable. The little, wiry man, surrounded by +eight or nine of the most renowned warriors of the dreaded Comanches, +stood firm; everybody was breathless; not a word did the savages say. +Hatcher then said again to Old Wolf, in the most determined manner: +"Send your young men over the hill at once, or I'll kill you right +where you are!" holding on to the hair of the savage with his left +hand and keeping the knife at his throat. + +The other Indians did not dare to make a move; they knew what kind of +a man Hatcher was; they knew he would do as he had said, and that if +they attempted a rescue he would kill their favourite chief in a second. + +Old Wolf shook his head defiantly in the negative. Hatcher repeated +his order, getting madder all the time: "Send your young men over +the hill; I tell you!" Old Wolf was still stubborn; he shook his +head again. Hatcher gave him another chance: "Send your young men +over the hill, I tell you, or I'll scalp you alive as you are!" +Again the chief shook his head. Then Hatcher, still holding on the +hair of his stubborn victim, commenced to make an incision in the +head of Old Wolf, for the determined man was bound to carry out his +threat; but he began very slowly. + +As the chief felt the blood trickle down his forehead, he weakened. +He ordered his next in command to send the young men over the hill +and out of sight. The order was repeated immediately to the warriors, +who were astonished spectators of the strange scene, and they quickly +mounted their horses and rode away over the hill as fast as they +could thump their animals' sides with their legs, leaving only five +or six chiefs with Old Wolf and Hatcher. + +Hatcher held on like grim death to the old chief's head, and immediately +ordered his men to throw the robes out of the wagons as quickly as +they could, and get inside themselves. This was promptly obeyed, +and when they were all under the cover of the wagon sheets, Hatcher +let go of his victim's hair, and, with a last kick, told him and his +friends that they could leave. They went off, and did not return. + +Some laughable incidents have enlivened the generally sanguinary +history of the Old Santa Fe Trail, but they were very serious at +the time to those who were the actors, and their ludicrousness came +after all was over. + +In the late summer of 1866, a thieving band of Apaches came into the +vicinity of Fort Union, New Mexico, and after carefully reconnoitring +the whole region and getting at the manner in which the stock +belonging to the fort was herded, they secreted themselves in the +Turkey Mountains overlooking the entire reservation, and lay in wait +for several days, watching for a favourable moment to make a raid +into the valley and drive off the herd. + +Selecting an occasion when the guard was weak and not very alert, +they in broad daylight crawled under the cover of a hill, and, +mounting their horses, dashed out with the most unearthly yells and +down among the animals that were quietly grazing close to the fort, +which terrified these so greatly that they broke away from the herders, +and started at their best gait toward the mountains, closely followed +by the savages. + +The astonished soldiers used every effort to avert the evident loss +of their charge, and many shots were exchanged in the running fight +that ensued; but the Indians were too strong for them, and they were +forced to abandon the chase. + +Among the herders was a bugler boy, who was remarkable for his bravery +in the skirmish and for his untiring endeavours to turn the animals +back toward the fort, but all without avail; on they went, with the +savages, close to their heels, giving vent to the most vociferous +shouts of exultation, and directing the most obscene and insulting +gesticulations to the soldiers that were after them. + +While this exciting contest for the mastery was going on, an old +Apache chief dashed in the rear of the bold bugler boy, and could, +without doubt, easily have killed the little fellow; but instead of +doing this, from some idea of a good joke, or for some other +incomprehensible reason, his natural blood-thirsty instinct was +changed, and he merely knocked the bugler's hat from his head with +the flat of his hand, and at the same time encouragingly stroked his +hair, as much as to say: "You are a brave boy," and then rode off +without doing him any harm. + +Thirty years ago last August, I was riding from Fort Larned to Fort +Union, New Mexico, in the overland coach. I had one of my clerks +with me; we were the only passengers, and arrived at Fort Dodge, +which was the commencement of the "long route," at midnight. +There we changed drivers, and at the break of day were some +twenty-four miles on our lonely journey. The coach was rattling +along at a breakneck gait, and I saw that something was evidently +wrong. Looking out of one of the doors, I noticed that our Jehu was +in a beastly state of intoxication. It was a most dangerous portion +of the Trail; the Indians were not in the best of humours, and an +attack was not at all improbable before we arrived at the next +station, Fort Lyon. + +I said to my clerk that something must be done; so I ordered the +driver to halt, which he did willingly, got out, and found that, +notwithstanding his drunken mood, he was very affable and disposed +to be full of fun. I suggested that he get inside the coach and +lie down to sleep off his potations, to which he readily assented, +while I and my clerk, after snugly fixing him on the cushions, +got on the boot, I taking the lines, he seizing an old trace-chain, +with which he pounded the mules along; for we felt ourselves in a +ticklish predicament should we come across any of the brigands of +the plains, on that lonely route, with the animals to look out for, +and only two of us to do the fighting. + +Suddenly we saw sitting on the bank of the Arkansas River, about +a dozen rods from the Trail, an antiquated-looking savage with his +war-bonnet on, and armed with a long lance and his bow and arrows. +We did not care a cent for him, but I thought he might be one of +the tribe's runners, lying in wait to discover the condition of the +coach--whether it had an escort, and how many were riding in it, and +that then he would go and tell how ridiculously small the outfit was, +and swoop down on us with a band of his colleagues, that were hidden +somewhere in the sand hills south of the river. He rose as we came +near, and made the sign, after he had given vent to a series of +"How's!" that he wanted to talk; but we were not anxious for any +general conversation with his savage majesty just then, so my clerk +applied the trace-chain more vigorously to the tired mules, in order +to get as many miles between him and the coach as we could before +he could get over into the sand hills and back. + +It was, fortunately, a false alarm; the old warrior perhaps had no +intentions of disturbing us. We arrived at Fort Lyon in good season, +with our valorous driver absolutely sobered, requesting me to say +nothing about his accident, which, of course, I did not. + +As has been stated, the caravans bound for Santa Fe and the various +forts along the line of the Old Trail did not leave the eastern end +of the route until the grass on the plains, on which the animals +depended solely for subsistence the whole way, grew sufficiently to +sustain them, which was usually about the middle of May. But a great +many years ago, one of the high officials of the quartermaster's +department at Washington, who had never been for a moment on duty +on the frontier in his life, found a good deal of fault with what he +thought the dilatoriness of the officer in charge at Fort Leavenworth, +who controlled the question of transportation for the several forts +scattered all over the West, for not getting the freight caravans +started earlier, which the functionary at the capital said must and +should be done. He insisted that they must leave the Missouri River +by the middle of April, a month earlier than usual, and came out +himself to superintend the matter. He made the contracts accordingly, +easily finding contractors that suited him. He then wrote to +headquarters in a triumphant manner that he had revolutionized the +whole system of army transportation of supplies to the military posts. +Delighted with his success, he rode out about the second week of May +to Salt Creek, only three miles from the fort, and, very much to his +astonishment, found his teams, which he had believed to be on the +way to Santa Fe a month ago, snugly encamped. They had "started," +just as was agreed. + +There are, or rather were, hundreds of stories current thirty-five +years ago of stage-coach adventures on the Trail; a volume could be +filled with them, but I must confine myself to a few. + +John Chisholm was a famous ranchman a long while ago, who had so many +cattle that it was said he did not know their number himself. At one +time he had a large contract to furnish beef to an Indian agency +in Arizona; he had just delivered an immense herd there, and very +wisely, after receiving his cash for them, sent most of it on to +Santa Fe in advance of his own journey. When he arrived there, +he started for the Missouri River with a thousand dollars and +sufficient small change to meet his current expenses on the road. + +The very first night out from Santa Fe, the coach was halted by a +band of men who had been watching Chisholm's movements from the time +he left the agency in Arizona. The instant the stage came to a +standstill, Chisholm divined what it meant, and had time to thrust +a roll of money down one of the legs of his trousers before the door +was thrown back and he was ordered to fork over what he had. + +He invited the robbers to search him, and to take what they might +find, but said he was not in a financial condition at that juncture +to turn over much. The thieves found his watch, took that, and then +began to search him. As luck would have it, they entirely missed +the roll that was down his leg, and discovered but a two-dollar bill +in his vest. When he told them it was all he had to buy grub on +the road, one of the robbers handed him a silver dollar, remarking +as he did so: "That a man who was mean enough to travel with only +two dollars ought to starve, but he would give him the dollar just +to let him know that he was dealing with gentlemen!" + +One of the essentials to the comfort of the average soldier is +tobacco. He must have it; he would sooner forego any component part +of his ration than give it up. + +In November, 1865, a detachment of Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas +Volunteers, and of the Second Colorado were ordered from Fort Larned +to Fort Lyon on a scouting expedition along the line of the Trail, +the savages having been very active in their raids on the freight caravans. + +In a short time their tobacco began to run low, and as there was no +settlement of any kind between the two military posts, there was no +chance to replenish their stock. One night, while encamped on the +Arkansas, the only piece that was left in the whole command, about +half a plug, was unfortunately lost, and there was dismay in the +camp when the fact was announced. Hours were spent in searching for +the missing treasure. The next morning the march was delayed for +some time, while further diligent search was instituted by all hands, +but without result, and the command set out on its weary tramp, +as disconsolate as may well be imagined by those who are victims to +the habit of chewing the weed. + +Arriving at Fort Lyon, to their greater discomfort it was learned +that the sutler at that post was entirely out of the coveted article, +and the troops began their return journey more disconsolate than ever. +Dry leaves, grass, and even small bits of twigs, were chewed as a +substitute, until, reaching the spot where they had lost the part of +a plug, they determined to remain there that night and begin a more +vigorous hunt for the missing piece. Just before dark their efforts +were rewarded; one of the men found it, and such a scramble occurred +for even the smallest nibble at it! Enormous prices were given for +a single chew. It opened at one dollar for a mere sliver, rose to +five, and closed at ten dollars when the last morsel was left. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. +A DESPERATE RIDE. + + + +In the Rocky Mountains and on the great plains along the line of the +Old Trail are many rude and widely separated graves. The sequestered +little valleys, the lonely gulches, and the broad prairies through +which the highway to New Mexico wound its course, hide the bones of +hundreds of whom the world will never have any more knowledge. +The number of these solitary, and almost obliterated mounds is small +when compared with the vast multitude in the cemeteries of our towns, +though if the host of those whose bones are mouldering under the +short buffalo-grass and tall blue-stem of the prairies between the +Missouri and the mountains were tabulated, the list would be appalling. +Their aggregate will never be known; for the once remote region of +the mid-continent, like the ocean, rarely gave up its victims. +Lives went out there as goes an expiring candle, suddenly, swiftly, +and silently; no record was kept of time or place. All those who +thus died are graveless and monumentless, the great circle of the +heavens is the dome of their sepulchre, and the recurring blossoms +of springtime their only epitaph. + +Sometimes the traveller over the Old Trail will suddenly, in the most +unexpected places, come across a little mound, perhaps covered with +stones, under which lie the mouldering bones of some unfortunate +adventurer. Above, now on a rude board, then on a detached rock, or +maybe on the wall of a beetling canyon, he may frequently read, in crude +pencilling or rougher carving, the legend of the dead man's ending. + +The line of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, which +practically runs over the Old Trail for nearly its whole length to +the mountains, is a fertile field of isolated graves. The savage +and soldier, the teamster and scout, the solitary trapper or hunter, +and many others who have gone down to their death fighting with the +relentless nomad of the plains, or have been otherwise ruthlessly +cut off, mark with their last resting-places that well-worn pathway +across the continent. + +The tourist, looking from his car-window as he is whirled with the +speed of a tornado toward the snow-capped peaks of the "Great Divide," +may see as he approaches Walnut Creek, three miles east of the town +of Great Bend in Kansas, on the beautiful ranch of Hon. D. Heizer, +not far from the stream, and close to the house, a series of graves, +numbering, perhaps, a score. These have been most religiously +cared for by the patriotic proprietor of the place during all the +long years since 1864, as he believes them to be the last resting-place +of soldiers who were once a portion of the garrison of Fort Zarah, +the ruins of which (now a mere hole in the earth) are but a few +hundred yards away, on the opposite side of the railroad track, +plainly visible from the train. + +The Walnut debouches into the Arkansas a short distance from where +the railroad crosses the creek, and at this point, too, the trail +from Fort Leavenworth merges into the Old Santa Fe. The broad pathway +is very easily recognized here; for it runs over a hard, flinty, +low divide, that has never been disturbed by the plough, and the +traveller has only to cast his eyes in a northeasterly direction +in order to see it plainly. + +The creek is fairly well timbered to-day, as it has been ever since +the first caravan crossed the clear water of the little stream. +It was always a favourite place of ambush by the Indians, and many +a conflict has occurred in the beautiful bottom bounded by a margin +of trees on two sides, between the traders, trappers, troops, and +the Indians, and also between the several tribes that were hereditary +enemies, particularly the Pawnees and the Cheyennes. It is only +about sixteen miles east of Pawnee Rock, and included in that region +of debatable ground where no band of Indians dared establish a +permanent village; for it was claimed by all the tribes, but really +owned by none. + +In 1864 the commerce of the great plains had reached enormous +proportions, and immense caravans rolled day after day toward the +blue hills which guard the portals of New Mexico, and the precious +freight constantly tempted the wily savages to plunder. + +To protect the caravans on their monotonous route through the "Desert," +as this portion of the plains was then termed, troops were stationed, +a mere handful relatively, at intervals on the Trail, to escort the +freighters and mail coaches over the most exposed and dangerous +portions of the way. + +On the bank of the Walnut, at this time, were stationed three hundred +unassigned recruits of the Third Wisconsin Cavalry, under the command +of Captain Conkey. This point was rightly regarded as one of the +most important on the whole overland route; for near it passed the +favourite highway of the Indians on their yearly migrations north +and south, in the wake of the strange elliptical march of the buffalo +far beyond the Platte, and back to the sunny knolls of the Canadian. + +This primitive cantonment which grew rapidly in strategical importance, +was two years later made quite formidable defensively, and named +Fort Zarah, in memory of the youngest son of Major General Curtis, +who was killed by guerillas somewhere south of Fort Scott, Kansas, +while escorting General James G. Blunt, of frontier fame during +the Civil War. + +Captain Henry Booth, during the year above mentioned, was chief of +cavalry and inspecting officer of the military district of the Upper +Arkansas, the western geographical limits of which extended to the +foot-hills of the mountains. + +One day he received an order from the head-quarters of the department +to make a special inspection of all the outposts on the Santa Fe Trail. +He was stationed at Fort Riley at the time, and the evening the order +arrived, active preparations were immediately commenced for his +extended and hazardous trip across the plains. Lieutenant Hallowell, +of the Ninth Wisconsin Battery, was to accompany him, and both +officers went at once to their quarters, took down from the walls, +where they had been hanging idly for weeks, their rifles and pistols, +and carefully examined and brushed them up for possible service in +the dreary Arkansas bottom. Camp-kettles, until late in the night, +sizzled and sputtered over crackling log-fires; for their proposed +ride beyond the settlements demanded cooked rations for many a +weary day. All the preliminaries arranged, the question of the means +of transportation was determined, and, curiously enough, it saved +the lives of the two officers in the terrible gauntlet they were +destined to run. + +Hallowell was a famous whip, and prided himself upon the exceptionally +fine turnout which he daily drove among the picturesque hills around +the fort. + +"Booth," said he in the evening, "let's not take a great lumbering +ambulance on this trip; if you will get a good way-up team of mules +from the quartermaster, we'll use my light rig, and we'll do our +own driving." + +To this proposition Booth readily assented, procured the mules, and, +as it turned out, they were a "good way-up team." + +Hallowell had a set of bows fitted to his light wagon, over which +was thrown an army-wagon-sheet, drawn up behind with a cord, similar +to those of the ordinary emigrant outfit to be seen daily on the +roads of the Western prairies. A round hole was necessarily left +in the rear end, serving the purpose of a lookout. + +Two grip-sacks, containing their dress uniforms, a box of crackers +and cheese, meat and sardines, together with a bottle of anti-snake +bite, made up the principal freight for the long journey, and in the +clear cold of the early morning they rolled out of the gates of the +fort, escorted by Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas, commanded by +Lieutenant Van Antwerp. + +The company of one hundred mounted men acting as escort was too +formidable a number for the Indians, and not a sign of one was seen +as the dangerous flats of Plum Creek and the rolling country beyond +were successively passed, and early in the afternoon the cantonment +on Walnut Creek was reached. At this important outpost Captain +Conkey's command was living in a rude but comfortable sort of a way, +in the simplest of dugouts, constructed along the right bank of the +stream; the officers, a little more in accordance with military +dignity, in tents a few rods in rear of the line of huts. + +A stockade stable had been built, with a capacity for two hundred +and fifty horses, and sufficient hay had been put up by the men in +the fall to carry the animals through the winter. + +Captain Conkey was a brusque but kind-hearted man, and with him were +stationed other officers, one of whom was a son of Admiral Goldsborough. +The morning after the arrival of the inspecting officers a rigid +examination of all the appointments and belongings of the place was +made, and, as an immense amount of property had accumulated for +condemnation, when evening came the books and papers were still +untouched; so that branch of the inspection had to be postponed +until the next morning. + +After dark, while sitting around the camp-fire, discussing the war, +telling stories, etc., Captain Conkey said to Booth: "Captain, +it won't require more than half an hour in the morning to inspect +the papers and finish up what you have to do; why don't you start +your escort out very early, so it won't be obliged to trot after +the ambulance, or you to poke along with it? You can then move out +briskly and make time." + +Booth, acting upon what he thought at the time an excellent suggestion, +in a few moments went over the creek to Lieutenant Van Antwerp's camp, +to tell him that he need not wait for the wagon in the morning, but +to start out early, at half-past six, in advance. + +According to instructions, the escort marched out of camp at daylight +next morning, while Booth and Hallowell remained to finish their +inspection. It was soon discovered, however, that either Captain +Conkey had underrated the amount of work to be done, or misjudged +the inspecting officers' ability to complete it in a certain time; +so almost three hours elapsed after the cavalry had departed before +the task ended. + +At last everything was closed up, much to Hallowell's satisfaction, +who had been chafing under the vexatious delay ever since the escort +left. When all was in readiness, the little wagon drawn up in front +of the commanding officer's quarters, and farewells said, Hallowell +suggested to Booth the propriety of taking a few of the troops +stationed there to go with them until they overtook their own escort, +which must now be several miles on the Trail to Fort Larned. +Booth asked Captain Conkey what he thought of Hallowell's suggestion. +Captain Conkey replied: "Oh! there's not the slightest danger; +there hasn't been an Indian seen around here for over ten days." + +If either Booth or Hallowell had been as well acquainted with the +methods and character of the plains Indians then as they afterward +became, they would have insisted upon an escort; but both were +satisfied that Captain Conkey knew what he was talking about, +so they concluded to push on. + +Jumping into their wagon, Lieutenant Hallowell took the reins and +away they went rattling over the old log bridge that used to span +the Walnut at the crossing of the Old Santa Fe Trail, as light of +heart as if riding to a dance. + +The morning was bright and clear with a stiff breeze blowing from +the northwest, and the Trail was frozen hard in places, which made +it very rough, as it had been cut up by the travel of the heavily +laden caravans when it was wet. Booth sat on the left side of +Hallowell with the whip in his hand, now and then striking the mules, +to keep up their speed. Hallowell started up a tune--he was a good +singer--and Booth joined in as they rolled along, as oblivious of any +danger as though they were in their quarters at Fort Riley. + +After they had proceeded some distance, Hallowell remarked to Booth: +"The buffalo are grazing a long way from the road to-day; a circumstance +that I think bodes no good." He had been on the plains the summer +before, and was better acquainted with the Indians and their +peculiarities than Captain Booth; but the latter replied that he +thought it was because their escort had gone on ahead, and had +probably frightened them off. + +The next mile or two was passed, and still they saw no buffalo between +the Trail and the Arkansas, though nothing more was said by either +regarding the suspicious circumstance, and they rode rapidly on. + +When they had gone about five or six miles from the Walnut, Booth, +happening to glance toward the river, saw something that looked +strangely like a flock of turkeys. He watched them intently for a +moment, when the objects rose up and he discovered they were horsemen. +He grasped Hallowell by the arm, directing his attention to them, and +said, "What are they?" Hallowell gave a hasty look toward the point +indicated, and replied, "Indians! by George!" and immediately turning +the mules around on the Trail, started them back toward the cantonment +on the Walnut at a full gallop.[68] + +"Hold on!" said Booth to Hallowell when he understood the latter's +movement; "maybe it's part of our escort." + +"No! no!" replied Hallowell. "I know they are Indians; I've seen +too many of them to be mistaken." + +"Well," rejoined Booth, "I'm going to know for certain"; so, stepping +out on the foot-board, and with one hand holding on to the front bow, +he looked back over the top of the wagon-sheet. They were Indians, +sure enough; they had fully emerged from the ravine in which they had +hidden, and while he was looking at them they were slipping off their +buffalo robes from their shoulders, taking arrows out of their quivers, +drawing up their spears, and making ready generally for a red-hot time. + +While Booth was intently regarding the movements of the savages, +Hallowell inquired of him: "They're Indians, aren't they, Booth?" + +"Yes," was Booth's answer, "and they're coming down on us like a +whirlwind." + +"Then I shall never see poor Lizzie again!" said Hallowell. He had +been married only a few weeks before starting out on this trip, and +his young wife's name came to his lips. + +"Never mind Lizzie," responded Booth; "let's get out of here!" He was +as badly frightened as Hallowell, but had no bride at Riley, and, +as he tells it, "was selfishly thinking of himself only, and escape." + +In answer to Booth's remark, Hallowell, in a firm, clear voice, said: +"All right! You do the shooting, and I'll do the driving," and +suiting the action to the words, he snatched the whip out of Booth's +hand, slipped from the seat to the front of the wagon, and commenced +lashing the mules furiously. + +Booth then crawled back, pulled out one of his revolvers, crept, or +rather fell, over the "lazy-back" of the seat, and reaching the hole +made by puckering the wagon-sheet, looked out of it, and counted +the Indians; thirty-four feather-bedecked, paint-bedaubed savages, +as vicious a set as ever scalped a white man, swooping down on them +like a hawk upon a chicken. + +Hallowell, between his yells at the mules, cried out, "How far are +they off now, Booth?" for of course he could see nothing of what +was going on in his rear. + +Booth replied as well as he could judge of the distance, while +Hallowell renewed his yelling at the animals and redoubled his +efforts with the lash. + +Noiselessly the Indians gained on the little wagon, for they had not +as yet uttered a whoop, and the determined driver, anxious to know +how far the red devils were from him, again asked Booth. The latter +told him how near they were, guessing at the distance, from which +Hallowell gathered inspiration for fresh cries and still more vigorous +blows with his whip. + +Booth, all this time, was sitting on the box containing the crackers +and sardines, watching the rapid approach of the cut-throats, and +seeing with fear and trembling the ease with which they gained upon +the little mules. + +Once more Hallowell made his stereotyped inquiry of Booth; but before +the latter could reply, two shots were fired from the rifles of the +Indians, accompanied by a yell that was demoniacal enough to cause +the blood to curdle in one's veins. Hallowell yelled at the mules, +and Booth yelled too; for what reason he could not tell, unless to +keep company with his comrade, who plied the whip more mercilessly +than ever upon the poor animals' backs, and the wagon flew over +the rough road, nearly upsetting at every jump. + +In another moment the bullets from two of the Indians' rifles passed +between Booth and Hallowell, doing no damage, and almost instantly +the savages charged upon them, at the same time dividing into two +parties, one going on one side and one on the other, both delivering +a volley of arrows into the wagon as they rode by. + +Just as the savages rushed past the wagon, Hallowell cried out to +Booth, "Cap, I'm hit!" and turning around to look, Booth saw an arrow +sticking in Hallowell's head above his right ear. His arm was still +plying the whip, which was going on unceasingly as the sails of a +windmill, and his howling at the mules only stopped long enough to +answer, "Not much!" in response to Booth's inquiry of "Does it hurt?" +as he grabbed the arrow and pulled it out of his head. + +The Indians had by this time passed on, and then, circling back, +prepared for another charge. Down they came, again dividing as before +into two bands, and delivering another shower of arrows. Hallowell +ceased his yelling long enough to cry out, "I'm hit once more, Cap!" +Looking at the plucky driver, Booth saw this time an arrow sticking +over his left ear, and hanging down his back. He snatched it out, +inquiring if it hurt, but received the same answer: "No, not much." + +Both men were now yelling at the top of their voices; and the mules +were jerking the wagon along the rough trail at a fearful rate, +frightened nearly out of their wits at the sight of the Indians and +the terrible shouting and whipping of the driver. + +Booth crawled to the back end of the wagon again, looked out of the +hole in the cover, and saw the Indians moving across the Trail, +preparing for another charge. One old fellow, mounted on a black +pony, was jogging along in the centre of the road behind them, but +near enough and evidently determined to send an arrow through the +puckered hole of the sheet. In a moment the savage stopped his pony +and let fly. Booth dodged sideways--the arrow sped on its course, and +whizzing through the opening, struck the black-walnut "lazy-back" +of the seat, the head sticking out on the other side, and the sudden +check causing the feathered end to vibrate rapidly with a vro-o-o-ing +sound. With a quick blow Booth struck it, and broke the shaft from +the head, leaving the latter embedded in the wood. + +As quickly as possible, Booth rushed to the hole and fired his +revolver at the old devil, but failed to hit him. While he was +trying to get in another shot, an arrow came flying through from +the left side of the Trail, and striking him on the inside of the +elbow, or "crazy-bone," so completely benumbed his hand that he +could not hold on to the pistol, and it dropped into the road with +one load still in its chamber. Just then the mules gave an +extraordinary jump to one side, which jerked the wagon nearly from +under him, and he fell sprawling on the end-gate, evenly balanced, +with his hands on the outside, attempting to clutch at something to +save himself! Seeing his predicament, the Indians thought they had +him sure, so they gave a yell of exultation, supposing he must +tumble out, but he didn't; he fortunately succeeded in grabbing +one of the wagon-bows with his right hand and pulled himself in; +but it was a close call. + +While all this was going on, Hallowell had not been neglected by +the Indians; about a dozen of them had devoted their time to him, +but he never flinched. Just as Booth had regained his equilibrium +and drawn his second revolver from its holster, Hallowell yelled +to him: "Right off to your right, Cap, quick!" + +Booth tumbled over the back of the seat, and, clutching at a wagon-bow +to steady himself, he saw, "off to the right," an Indian who was in +the act of letting an arrow drive at Hallowell; it struck the side of +the box, and at the same instant Booth fired, scaring the red devil badly. + +Back over the seat again he rushed to guard the rear, only to find +a young buck riding close to the side of the wagon, his pony running +in the deep path made by the ox-drivers in walking alongside of their +teams. Putting his left arm around one of the wagon-bows to prevent +his being jerked out, Booth quietly stuck his revolver through the +hole in the sheet; but before he could pull the trigger, the Indian +flopped over on the off side of his pony, and nothing could be seen +of him excepting one arm around his animal's neck and from the knee +to the toes of one leg. Booth did not wait for him to ride up; +he could almost hit the pony's head with his hand, so close was he +to the wagon. Booth struck at the beast several times, but the +Indian kept him right up in his place by whipping him on the opposite +of his neck. Presently the plucky savage's arm began to move. +Booth watched him intently, and saw that he had fixed an arrow in +his bow under the pony's shoulder; just as he was on the point of +letting go the bowstring, with the head of the arrow not three feet +from Booth's breast as he leaned out of the hole, the latter struck +frantically at the weapon, dodged back into the wagon, and up came +the Indian. Whenever Booth looked out, down went the Indian on +the other side of his pony, to rise again in a moment, and Booth, +afraid to risk himself with his head and breast exposed at this game +of hide and seek, drew suddenly back as the Indian went down the +third time, and in a second came up; but this was once too often. +Booth had not dodged completely into the wagon, nor dropped his +revolver, and as the Indian rose he fired. + +The savage was naked to the waist; the ball struck him in the left +nipple, the blood spirted out of the wound, his bow and arrows and +lariat, with himself, rolled off the pony, falling heavily on the +ground, and with one convulsive contraction of his legs and an "Ugh!" +he was as dead as a stone. + +"I've killed one of 'em!" called out Booth to Hallowell, as he saw +his victim tumble from his pony. + +"Bully for you, Cap!" came Hallowell's response as he continued his +shouting, and the blows of that tireless whip fell incessantly on +the backs of the poor mules. + +After he had killed the warrior, Booth kept his seat on the cracker box, +watching to see what the Indians were going to do next, when he was +suddenly interrupted by Hallowell's crying out to him: "Off to the +right again, Cap, quick!" and, whirling around instantly, he saw an +Indian within three feet of the wagon, with his bow and arrow almost +ready to shoot; there was no time to get over the seat, and as he +could not fire so close to Hallowell, he cried to the latter: +"Hit him with the whip! Hit him with the whip!" The lieutenant +diverted one of the blows intended for the mules, and struck the +savage fairly across the face. The whip had a knot in the end of it +to prevent its unravelling, and this knot must have hit the Indian +squarely in the eye; for he dropped his bow, put both hands up to +his face, rubbed his eyes, and digging his heels into his pony's +sides was soon out of range of a revolver; but, nevertheless, he was +given a parting shot as a sort of salute. + +A terrific yell from the rear at this moment caused both Booth and +Hallowell to look around, and the latter to inquire: "What's the +matter now, Booth?" "They are coming down on us like lightning," +said he; and, sure enough, those who had been prancing around their +dead comrade were tearing along the Trail toward the wagon with a +more hideous noise than when they began. + +Hallowell yelled louder than ever and lashed the mules more furiously +still, but the Indians gained upon them as easily as a blooded racer +on a common farm plug. Separating as before, and passing on each +side of the wagon, they delivered another volley of bullets and +arrows as they rushed on. + +When this charge was made, Booth drew away from the hole in the rear +and turned toward the Indians, but forgot that as he was sitting, +with his back pressed against the sheet, his body was plainly outlined +on the canvas. + +When the Indians dashed by Hallowell cried out, "I'm hit again, Cap!" +and Booth, in turning around to go to his relief, felt something +pulling at him; and glancing over his left shoulder he discovered +an arrow sticking into him and out through the wagon-sheet. With a +jerk of his body, he tore himself loose, and going to Hallowell, +asked him where he was hit. "In the back," was the reply; where +Booth saw an arrow extending under the "lazy-back" of the seat. +Taking hold of it, Booth gave a pull, but Hallowell squirmed so that +he desisted. "Pull it out!" cried the plucky driver. Booth thereupon +took hold of it again, and giving a jerk or two, out it came. He was +thoroughly frightened as he saw it leave the lieutenant's body; +it seemed to have entered at least six inches, and the wound appeared +to be a dangerous one. Hallowell, however, did not cease for a moment +belabouring the mules, and his yells rang out as clear and defiant +as before. + +After extracting the arrow from Hallowell's back, Booth turned again +to the opening in the rear of the wagon to see what new tricks the +devils were up to, when Hallowell again called out, "Off to the left, +Cap, quick!" + +Rushing to the front as soon as possible, Booth saw one of the savages +in the very act of shooting at Hallowell from the left side of the +wagon, not ten feet away. The last revolver was empty, but something +had to be done at once; so, levelling the weapon at him, Booth shouted +"Bang! you son-of-a-gun!" Down the Indian ducked his head; rap, rap, +went his knees against his pony's sides, and away he flew over +the prairie! + +Back to his old place in the rear tumbled Booth, to load his revolver. +The cartridges they used in the army in those days were the +old-fashioned kind made of paper. Biting off one end, he endeavoured +to pour the powder into the chamber of the pistol; but as the wagon +was tumbling from side to side, and jumping up and down, as it fairly +flew over the rough Trail, more fell into the bottom of the wagon +than into the revolver. Just as he was inserting a ball, Hallowell +yelled, "To the left, Cap, quick!" + +Over the seat Booth piled once more, and there was another Indian +with his bow and arrow all ready to pinion the brave lieutenant. +Pointing his revolver at him, Booth yelled as he had at the other, +but this savage had evidently noticed the first failure, and concluded +there were no more loads left; so, instead of taking a hasty departure, +he grinned demoniacally and endeavoured to fix the arrow in his bow. +Booth rose up in the wagon, and grasping hold of one of its bows +with his left hand, seized the revolver by the muzzle, and with all +the force he could muster hurled it at the impudent brute. It was +a Remington, its barrel octagon-shaped, with sharp corners, and when +it was thrown, it turned in the air, and striking the Indian +muzzle-first on the ribs, cut a long gash. + +"Ugh!" he grunted, as, dropping his bow and spear, he flung himself +over the side of his pony, and away he went across the prairie. + +Only one revolver remaining now, and that empty, with the savages +still howling around the apparently doomed men like so many demons! +Booth fell over the seat, as was his usual fate whenever he attempted +to get to the back of the wagon, picked up the empty revolver, and +tried to load it; but before he could bite the end of a cartridge, + Hallowell yelled, "Cap, I'm hit again!" + +"Where this time?" inquired Booth, anxiously. "In the hand," replied +Hallowell; and, looking around, Booth noticed that although his right +arm was still thrashing at the now lagging mules with as much energy +as ever, through the fleshy part of the thumb was an arrow, which was +flopping up and down as he raised and lowered his hand in ceaseless +efforts to keep up the speed of the almost exhausted animals. + +"Let me pull it out," said Booth, as he came forward to do so. + +"No, never mind," replied Hallowell; "can't stop! can't stop!" and up +and down went the arm, and flip, flap, went the arrow with it, until +finally it tore through the flesh and fell to the ground. + +Along they bowled, the Indians yelling, and the occupants of the +little wagon defiantly answering them, while Booth continued to +struggle desperately with that empty pistol, in his vain efforts +to load it. In another moment Hallowell shouted, "Booth, they are +trying to crowd the mules into the sunflowers!" + +Alongside of the Trail huge sunflowers had grown the previous summer, +and now their dry stalks stood as thick as a cane-brake; if the wagon +once got among them, it would be impossible for the mules to keep up +their gallop. The savages seemed to realize this; for one huge old +fellow kept riding alongside the off mule, throwing his spear at him +and then jerking it back with the thong, one end of which was fastened +to his wrist. The near mule was constantly pushed further and further +from the Trail by his mate, which was jumping frantically, scared out +of his senses by the Indian. + +At this perilous juncture, Booth stepped out on the foot-board of +the wagon, and, holding on by a bow, commenced to kick the frightened +mule vigorously, while Hallowell pulled on one line, whipping and +yelling at the same time; so together they succeeded in forcing the +animals back into the Trail. + +The Indians kept close to the mules in their efforts to force them +into the sunflowers, and Booth made several attempts to scare the +old fellow that was nearest by pointing his empty revolver at him, +but he would not scare; so in his desperation Booth threw it at him. +He missed the old brute, but hit his pony just behind its rider's leg, +which started the animal into a sort of a stampede; his ugly master +could not control him, and thus the immediate peril from the +persistent cuss was delayed. + +Now the pair were absolutely without firearms of any kind, with +nothing left except their sabres and valises, and the savages came +closer and closer. In turn the two swords were thrown at them as they +came almost within striking distance; then followed the scabbards, +as the howling fiends surrounded the wagon and attempted to spear +the mules. Fortunately their arrows were exhausted. + +The cantonment on the Walnut was still a mile and a half away, and +there was nothing for our luckless travellers to do but whip and kick, +both of which they did most vigorously. Hallowell sat as immovable +as the Sphinx, excepting his right arm, which from the moment they +had started on the back trail had not once ceased its incessant motion. + +Happening to cast his eyes back on the Trail, Booth saw to his dismay +twelve or fifteen of the savages coming up on the run with fresh +energy, their spears poised ready for action, and he felt that +something must be done very speedily to divert them; for if these +added their number to those already surrounding the wagon, the chances +were they would succeed in forcing the mules into the sunflowers, +and his scalp and Hallowell's would dangle at the belt of the leader. + +Glancing around in the bottom of the wagon for some kind of weapon, +his eye fell on the two valises containing the dress-suits. +He snatched up his own, and threw it out while the pursuers were yet +five or six rods in the rear. The Indians noticed this new trick +with a great yell of satisfaction, and the moment they arrived at +the spot where the valise lay, all dismounted; one of them, seizing +it by the two handles, pulled with all his strength to open it, and +when he failed, another drew a long knife from under his blanket and +ripped it apart. He then put his hand in, pulling out a sash, which +he began to wind around his head, like a negress with a bandanna, +letting the tassels hang down his back. While he was thus amusing +himself, one of the others had taken out a dress-coat, a third a pair +of drawers, and still another a shirt, which they proceeded to put on, +meanwhile dancing around and howling. + +Booth told Hallowell of the sacrifice of the valise, and said, +"I'm going to throw out yours." "All right," replied Hallowell; +"all we want is time." So out it went on the Trail, and shared +the same fate as the other. + +The lull in hostilities caused by their outstripping their pursuers +gave the almost despairing men time to talk over their situation. +Hallowell said he did not propose to be captured and then butchered +or burned at the pleasure of the Indians. He said to Booth: "If they +kill one of the mules, and so stop us, let's kick, strike, throw dirt +or anything, and compel them to kill us on the spot." So it was agreed, +if the worst came to the worst, to stand back to back and fight. + +During this discussion the arm of Hallowell still plied the effective +lash, and they drew perceptibly nearer the camp, and as they caught +the first glimpse of its tents and dugouts, hope sprang up within them. +The mules were panting like a hound after a deer; wherever the +harness touched them, it was white with lather, and it was evident +they could keep on their feet but a short time longer. Would they +hold out until the bridge was reached? The whipping and the kicking +had but little effect on them now. They still continued their gallop, +but it was slower and more laboured than before. + +The Indians who had torn open the valises had not returned to the +chase, and although there were still a sufficient number of the +fiends pursuing to make it interesting, they did not succeed in +spearing the mules, as at every attempt the plucky animals would +jump sideways or forward and evade the impending blow. + +The little log bridge was reached; the savages had all retreated, +but the valorous Hallowell kept the mules at their fastest pace. +The bridge was constructed of half-round logs, and of course was +extremely rough; the wagon bounded up and down enough to shake the +teeth out of one's head as the little animals went flying over it. +Booth called out to Hallowell, "No need to drive so fast now, +the Indians have all left us"; but he replied, "I ain't going to stop +until I get across"; and down came the whip, on sped the mules, +not breaking their short gallop until they were pulled up in front +of Captain Conkey's quarters. + +The rattling of the wagon on the bridge was the first intimation +the garrison had of its return. + +The officers came running out of their tents, the enlisted men poured +out of their dugouts like a lot of ants, and Booth and Hallowell were +surrounded by their friends in a moment. Captain Conkey ordered his +bugler to sound "Boots and Saddles," and in less than ten minutes +ninety troopers were mounted, and with the captain at their head +started after the Indians. + +When Hallowell tried to rise from his seat so as to get out every +effort only resulted in his falling back. Some one stepped around +to the other side to assist him, when it was discovered that the +skirt of his overcoat had worked outside of the wagon-sheet and +hung over the edge, and that three or four of the arrows fired at him +by the savages had struck the side of the wagon, and, passing through +the flap of his coat, had pinned him down. Booth pulled the arrows +out and helped him up; he was pretty stiff from sitting in his cramped +position so long, and his right arm dropped by his side as if paralysed. + +Booth stood looking on while his comrade's wounds were being dressed, +when the adjutant asked him: "What makes you shrug your shoulder so?" +He answered, "I don't know; something makes it smart." The officer +looked at him and said, "Well, I don't wonder; I should think it +would smart; here's an arrow-head sticking into you," and he tried +to pull it out, but it would not come. Captain Goldsborough then +attempted it, but was not any more successful. The doctor then told +them to let it alone, and he would attend to Booth after he had done +with Hallowell. When he examined Booth's shoulder, he found that +the arrow-head had struck the thick portion of the shoulder-blade, +and had made two complete turns, wrapping itself around the muscles, +which had to be cut apart before the sharp point could be withdrawn. + +Booth was not seriously hurt. Hallowell, however, had received two +severe wounds; the arrow that had lodged in his back had penetrated +almost to his kidneys, and the wound in his thumb was very painful, +not so much from the simple impact of the arrow as from the tearing +away of the muscle by the shaft while he was whipping his mules; +his right arm, too, was swollen terribly, and so stiff from the +incessant use of it during the drive that for more than a month +he required assistance in dressing and undressing. + +The mules who had saved their lives were of small account after +their memorable trip; they remained stiff and sore from the rough +road and their continued forced speed. Booth and Hallowell went out +to look at them the next morning, as they hobbled around the corral, +and from the bottom of their hearts wished them well. + +Captain Conkey's command returned to the cantonment about midnight. +But one Indian had been seen, and he was south of the Arkansas in +the sand hills. + +The next morning a scouting-party of forty men, under command of a +sergeant, started out to scour the country toward Cow Creek, +northeast from the Walnut. + +As I have stated, the troopers stationed at the cantonment on the +Walnut were mostly recruits. Now the cavalry recruit of the old +regular army on the frontier, thirty or forty years ago, mounted on +a great big American horse and sent out with well-trained comrades +on a scout after the hostile savages of the plains, was the most +helpless individual imaginable. Coming fresh from some large city +probably, as soon as he arrived at his station he was placed on the +back of an animal of whose habits he knew as little as he did of the +differential calculus; loaded down with a carbine, the muzzle of which +he could hardly distinguish from the breech; a sabre buckled around +his waist; a couple of enormous pistols stuck in his holsters; +his blankets strapped to the cantle of his saddle, and, to complete +the hopelessness of his condition in a possible encounter with a +savage enemy who was ever on the alert, he was often handicapped by +a camp-kettle or two, a frying-pan, and ten days' rations. No wonder +this doughty representative of Uncle Sam's power was an easy prey for +"Poor Lo," who, when he caught the unfortunate soldier away from his +command and started after him, must have laughed at the ridiculous +appearance of his enemy, with both hands glued to the pommel of his +saddle, his hair on end, his sabre flying and striking his horse at +every jump as the animal tore down the trail toward camp, while the +Indian, rapidly gaining, in a few minutes had the scalp of the hapless +rider dangling at his belt, and another of the "boys in blue" had +joined the majority. + +The scouting-party had proceeded about four or five miles, when one +of the corporals asked permission for himself and a recruit to go +over to the Upper Walnut to find out whether they could discover +any signs of Indians. + +While they were carelessly riding along the big curve which the +northern branch of the Walnut makes at that point, there suddenly +sprang from their ambush in the timber on the margin of the stream +about three hundred Indians, whooping and yelling. The two troopers +of course, immediately whirled their horses and started down the +creek toward the camp, hotly pursued by the howling savages. + +The corporal was an excellent rider; a well-trained and disciplined +soldier, having seen much service on the plains. He led in the flight, +closely followed by the unfortunate recruit, who had been enlisted +but a short time. Not more than an eighth of a mile had been covered, +when the corporal heard his companion exclaim,-- + +"Don't leave me! Don't leave me!" + +Looking back, the corporal saw that the poor recruit was losing ground +rapidly; his horse was rearing and plunging, making very little +headway, while his rider was jerking and pulling on the bit, a curb +of the severest kind. Perceiving the strait his comrade was in, +the corporal reined up for a moment and called out,-- + +"Let him go! Let him go! Don't jerk on the bit so!" + +The Indians were gaining ground rapidly, and in another moment the +corporal heard the recruit again cry out,-- + +"Oh! Don't--" + +Realizing that it would be fatal to delay, and that he could be of +no assistance to his companion, already killed and scalped, he leaned +forward on his horse, and sinking his spurs deep in the animal's +flanks fairly flew down the valley, with the three hundred savages +close in his wake. + +The officers at the camp were sitting in their tents when the sentinel +on post No. 1 fired his piece, upon which all rushed out to learn +the cause of the alarm; for there was no random shooting in those +days allowed around camp or in garrison. Looking up the valley of +the Walnut, they could see the lucky corporal, with his long hair +streaming in the wind, and his heels rapping his horse's sides, as he +dashed over the brown sod of the winter prairie. + +The corporal now slackened his pace, rode up to the commanding +officer's tent, reported the affair, and then was allowed to go to +his own quarters for the rest he so much needed. + +Captain Conkey immediately ordered a mounted squad, accompanied by an +ambulance, to go up the creek to recover the body of the unfortunate +recruit. The party were absent a little over an hour, and brought +back with them the remains of the dead soldier. He had been shot +with an arrow, the point of which was still sticking out through his +breast-bone. His scalp had been torn completely off, and the lapels +of his coat and the legs of his trousers carried away by the savages. +He was buried the next morning with military honours, in the little +graveyard on the bank of the Walnut, where his body still rests in +the dooryard of the ranch. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. +HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. + + + +In the spring of 1867, General Hancock, who then commanded the military +division of the Missouri, with headquarters at Fort Leavenworth, +Kansas, organized an expedition against the Indians of the great +plains, which he led in person. With him was General Custer, second +ranking officer, from whom I quote the story of the march and some +of the incidents of the raid. + +General Hancock, with the artillery and six companies of infantry, +arrived at Fort Riley, Kansas, the last week in March, where he was +joined by four companies of the Seventh Cavalry, commanded by the +intrepid Custer. + +From Fort Riley the expedition marched to Fort Harker, seventy-two +miles farther west, on the Smoky Hill, where the force was increased +by the addition of two more troops of cavalry. Remaining there only +long enough to replenish their commissary supplies, the march was +directed to Fort Larned on the Old Santa Fe Trail. On the 7th of +April the command reached the latter post, accompanied by the agent +of the Comanches and Kiowas; at the fort the agent of the Cheyennes, +Arapahoes, and Apaches was waiting for the arrival of the general. +The agent of the three last-mentioned tribes had already sent runners +to the head chiefs, inviting them to a grand council which was to +assemble near the fort on the 10th of the month, and he requested +General Hancock to remain at the fort with his command until that date. + +On the 9th of April a terrible snow-storm came on while the troops +were encamped waiting for the head men of the various tribes to arrive. +Custer says: + + It was our good fortune to be in camp rather than on the + march; had it been otherwise, we could not well have escaped + without loss of life. The cavalry horses suffered severely, + and were only preserved by doubling their rations of oats, + while to prevent their being frozen during the intensely + cold night which followed, the guards were instructed to + pass along the picket lines with a whip, and keep the + horses moving constantly. The snow was eight inches deep. + The council, which was to take place the next day, had to be + postponed until the return of good weather. Now began the + display of a kind of diplomacy for which the Indian is + peculiar. The Cheyennes and a band of Sioux were encamped + on Pawnee Fork, about thirty miles above Fort Larned. + They neither desired to move nearer to us or have us + approach nearer to them. On the morning of the 11th, + they sent us word that they had started to visit us, but, + discovering a large herd of buffalo near their camp, + they had stopped to procure a supply of meat. This message + was not received with much confidence, nor was a buffalo + hunt deemed of sufficient importance to justify the Indians + in breaking their engagement. General Hancock decided, + however, to delay another day, when, if the Indians still + failed to come in, he would move his command to the vicinity + of their village and hold the conference there. + + Orders were issued on the evening of the 12th for the march + to be resumed on the following day. Late in the evening + two chiefs of the "Dog-Soldiers," a band composed of the + most warlike and troublesome Indians on the plains, + chiefly made up of Cheyennes, visited our camp. They were + accompanied by a dozen warriors, and expressed a desire to + hold a conference with General Hancock, to which he assented. + A large council-fire was built in front of the general's + tent, and all the officers of his command assembled there. + A tent had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs + a short distance from the general's. Before they could + feel equal to the occasion, and in order to obtain time to + collect their thoughts, they desired that supper might be + prepared for them, which was done. When finally ready, + they advanced from their tent to the council-fire in single + file, accompanied by their agent and an interpreter. + Arrived at the fire, another brief delay ensued. No matter + how pressing or momentous the occasion, an Indian invariably + declines to engage in a council until he has filled his pipe + and gone through with the important ceremony of a smoke. + This attended to, the chiefs announced that they were ready + "to talk." They were then introduced to the principal + officers of the group, and seemed much struck with the + flashy uniforms of the few artillery officers, who were + present in all the glory of red horsehair plumes, + aiguillettes, etc. The chiefs seemed puzzled to determine + whether these insignia designated chieftains or medicine men. + General Hancock began the conference by a speech, in which + he explained to the Indians his purpose in coming to see + them, and what he expected of them in the future. + He particularly informed them that he was not there to make + war, but to promote peace. Then, expressing his regrets + that more of the chiefs had not visited him, he announced + his intention of proceeding on the morrow with his command + to the vicinity of their village, and there holding a + council with all the chiefs. Tall Bull, a fine, warlike-looking + chieftain, replied to General Hancock, but his speech + contained nothing important, being made up of allusions to + the growing scarcity of the buffalo, his love for the white + man, and the usual hint that a donation in the way of + refreshments would be highly acceptable; he added that he + would have nothing new to say at the village. + + Rightly concluding that the Indians did not intend to come + to our camp, as they had at first agreed to, it was decided + to move nearer their village. On the morning following the + conference our entire force, therefore, marched from + Fort Larned up Pawnee Fork in the direction of the main + village, encamping the first night about twenty-one miles + from Larned. Several parties of Indians were seen in our + advance during the day, evidently watching our movements, + while a heavy smoke, seen to rise in the direction of the + Indian village, indicated that something more than usual + was going on. The smoke, we afterward learned, arose from + burning grass. The Indians, thinking to prevent us from + encamping in their vicinity, had set fire to and burned all + the grass for miles in the direction from which they + expected us. Before we arrived at our camping-ground, + we were met by several chiefs and warriors belonging to the + Cheyennes and Sioux. Among the chiefs were Pawnee Killer, + of the Sioux, and White Horse, of the Cheyennes. It was + arranged that these chiefs should accept our hospitality + and remain with us during the night, and in the morning all + the chiefs of the two tribes then in the village were to + come to General Hancock's head-quarters and hold a council. + On the morning of the 14th, Pawnee Killer left our camp at + an early hour, as he said for the purpose of going to the + village to bring in the other chiefs to the council. + Nine o'clock had been agreed upon as the time at which the + council should assemble. The hour came, but the chiefs + did not. Now an Indian council is not only often an + important, but always an interesting, occasion. At this + juncture, Bull Bear, an influential chief among the + Cheyennes, came in and reported that the chiefs were on + their way to our camp, but would not be able to reach it + for some time. This was a mere artifice to secure delay. + General Hancock informed Bull Bear that, as the chiefs + could not arrive for some time, he would move his forces + up the stream nearer the village, and the council could be + held at our camp that night. To this proposition Bull Bear + gave his consent. + + At 11 A.M. we resumed the march, and had proceeded but a few + miles when we witnessed one of the finest and most imposing + military displays, according to the Indian art of war, + which it has been my lot to behold. It was nothing more + nor less than an Indian line of battle drawn directly + across our line of march, as if to say, "Thus far and no + further." Most of the Indians were mounted; all were + bedecked in their brightest colours, their heads crowned + with the brilliant war-bonnet, their lances bearing the + crimson pennant, bows strung, and quivers full of barbed + arrows. In addition to these weapons, which, with the + hunting-knife and tomahawk, are considered as forming the + armament of the warrior, each one was supplied with either + a breech-loading rifle or revolver, sometimes with both-- + the latter obtained through the wise forethought and strong + love of fair play which prevails in the Indian department, + which, seeing that its wards are determined to fight, + is equally determined that there shall be no advantage taken, + but that the two sides shall be armed alike; proving, too, + in this manner, the wonderful liberality of our government, + which is not only able to furnish its soldiers with the + latest style of breech-loaders to defend it and themselves, + but is equally able and willing to give the same pattern + of arms to the common foe. The only difference is, that if + the soldier loses his weapon, he is charged double price + for it, while to avoid making any such charge against the + Indian, his weapons are given him without conditions attached. + + In the line of battle before us there were several hundred + Indians, while further to the rear and at different + distances were other organized bodies, acting apparently + as reserves. Still further behind were small detachments + who seemed to perform the duty of couriers, and were held + in readiness to convey messages to the village. The ground + beyond was favourable for an extended view, and as far as + the eye could reach, small groups of individuals could be + seen in the direction of the village; these were evidently + parties of observation, whose sole object was to learn the + result of our meeting with the main body and hasten with + the news to the village. + + For a few moments appearances seemed to foreshadow anything + but a peaceable issue. The infantry was in the advance, + followed closely by the artillery, while my command, + the cavalry, was marching on the flank. General Hancock, + who was riding with his staff at the head of the column, + coming suddenly in view of the wild, fantastic battle array, + which extended far to our right and left, and was not more + than half a mile in our front, hastily sent orders to the + infantry, artillery, and cavalry to form in line of battle, + evidently determined that, if war was intended, we should be + prepared. The cavalry being the last to form on the right, + came into line on a gallop, and without waiting to align + the ranks carefully, the command was given to "Draw sabre." + As the bright blades flashed from their scabbards into the + morning sunlight, and the infantry brought their muskets + to a carry, a contrast was presented which, to a military + eye, could but be striking. Here in battle array, facing + each other, were the representatives of civilized and + barbarous warfare. The one, with few modifications, stood + clothed in the same rude style of dress, bearing the same + patterned shield and weapon that his ancestors had borne + centuries before; the other confronted him in the dress + and supplied with the implements of war which an advanced + stage of civilization had pronounced the most perfect. + Was the comparative superiority of these two classes to be + subjected to the mere test of war here? All was eager + anxiety and expectation. Neither side seemed to comprehend + the object or intentions of the other; each was waiting + for the other to deliver the first blow. A more beautiful + battle-ground could not have been chosen. Not a bush or + even the slightest irregularity of ground intervened between + the two lines, which now stood frowning and facing each other. + Chiefs could be seen riding along the line, as if directing + and exhorting their braves to deeds of heroism. + + After a few moments of painful suspense, General Hancock, + accompanied by General A. J. Smith and other officers, + rode forward, and through an interpreter invited the chiefs + to meet us midway for the purpose of an interview. + In response to this invitation, Roman Nose, bearing a white + flag, accompanied by Bull Bear, White Horse, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, on the part of the Cheyennes, and Pawnee + Killer, Bad Wound, Tall-Bear-That-Walks-under-the-Ground, + Left Hand, Little Bear, and Little Bull, on the part of the + Sioux, rode forward to the middle of the open space between + the two lines. Here we shook hands with all the chiefs, + most of them exhibiting unmistakable signs of gratification + at this apparently peaceful termination of our rencounter. + General Hancock very naturally inquired the object of the + hostile attitude displayed before us, saying to the chiefs + that if war was their object, we were ready then and there + to participate. Their immediate answer was that they did + not desire war, but were peacefully disposed. They were + then told that we would continue our march toward the + village, and encamp near it, but would establish such + regulations that none of the soldiers would be permitted + to approach or disturb them. An arrangement was then + effected by which the chiefs were to assemble at General + Hancock's headquarters as soon as our camp was pitched. + The interview then terminated, and the Indians moved off + in the direction of their village, we following leisurely + in the rear. + + A march of a few miles brought us in sight of the village, + which was situated in a beautiful grove on the bank of the + stream up which we had been marching. It consisted of + upwards of three hundred lodges, a small fraction over half + belonging to the Cheyennes, the remainder to the Sioux. + Like all Indian encampments, the ground chosen was a most + romantic spot, and at the same time fulfilled in every + respect the requirements of a good camping-ground; wood, + water, and grass were abundant. The village was placed on + a wide, level plateau, while on the north and west, at a + short distance off, rose high bluffs, which admirably served + as a shelter against the cold winds which at that season of + the year prevail from those directions. Our tents were + pitched within a mile of the village. Guards were placed + between to prevent intrusion upon our part. We had scarcely + pitched our tents when Roman Nose, Bull Bear, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, all prominent chiefs of the Cheyenne + nation, came into camp with the information that upon our + approach their women and children had all fled from the + village, alarmed by the presence of so many soldiers, and + imagining a second Chivington massacre to be intended. + General Hancock insisted that they should all return, + promising protection and good treatment to all; that if + the camp was abandoned, he would hold it responsible. + The chiefs then stated their belief in their ability to + recall the fugitives, could they be furnished with horses + to overtake them. This was accordingly done, and two of + them set out mounted on two of our horses. An agreement + was also entered into at the same time, that one of our + interpreters, Ed Gurrier, a half-breed Cheyenne, who was in + the employ of the government, should remain in the village + and report every two hours as to whether any Indians were + leaving there. This was about seven o'clock in the evening. + At half-past nine the half-breed returned to head-quarters + with the intelligence that all the chiefs and warriors were + saddling up to leave, under circumstances showing that they + had no intention of returning, such as packing up every + article that could be carried with them, and cutting and + destroying their lodges--this last being done to obtain + small pieces for temporary shelter. + + I had retired to my tent, which was some few hundred yards + from that of General Hancock, when a messenger from the + latter awakened me with the information that the general + desired my presence in his tent. He briefly stated the + situation of affairs, and directed me to mount my command + as quickly and as silently as possible, surround the Indian + village, and prevent the departure of its inhabitants. + Easily said, but not so easily done. Under ordinary + circumstances, silence not being necessary, I could have + returned to my camp, and by a few blasts from the trumpet, + placed every soldier on his saddle almost as quickly as it + has taken time to write this short sentence. No bugle calls + must be sounded; we were to adopt some of the stealth of the + Indians--how successfully remained to be seen. By this time + every soldier and officer was in his tent sound asleep. + First going to the tent of the adjutant and arousing him, + I procured an experienced assistant in my labours. Next the + captains of companies were awakened and orders imparted + to them. They in turn transmitted the order to the first + sergeant, who similarly aroused the men. It has often + surprised me to observe the alacrity with which disciplined + soldiers, experienced in campaigning, will hasten to prepare + themselves for the march in an emergency like this. + No questions are asked, no time is wasted. A soldier's + toilet, on an Indian campaign, is a simple affair, and + requires little time for arranging. His clothes are + gathered up hurriedly, no matter how, so long as he retains + possession of them. The first object is to get his horse + saddled and bridled, and until this is done his own dress + is a matter of secondary importance, and one button or hook + must do the duty of half a dozen. When his horse is ready + for the mount, the rider will be seen completing his own + equipment; stray buttons will receive attention, arms will + be overhauled, spurs restrapped; then, if there still remain + a few spare moments, the homely black pipe is filled and + lighted, and the soldier's preparation is complete. + + The night was all that could be desired for the success of + our enterprise. The air was mild and pleasant; the moon, + although nearly full, kept almost constantly behind the + clouds, as if to screen us in our hazardous undertaking. + I say hazardous, because none of us imagined for one moment + that if the Indians discovered us in our attempt to surround + them and their village, we should escape without a fight-- + a fight, too, in which the Indians, sheltered behind the + trunks of the stately forest trees under which their lodges + were pitched, would possess all the advantage. General + Hancock, anticipating that the Indians would discover our + approach, and that a fight would ensue, ordered the + artillery and infantry under arms, to await the result of + our moonlight adventure. My command was soon in the saddle, + and silently making its way toward the village. + Instructions had been given forbidding all conversation + except in a whisper. Sabres were disposed of to prevent + clanging. Taking a camp-fire which we could see in the + village as our guiding point, we made a detour so as to + place the village between ourselves and the infantry. + Occasionally the moon would peep out from the clouds and + enable us to catch a hasty glance at the village. Here and + there under the thick foliage we could see the white, + conical-shaped lodges. Were the inmates slumbering, + unaware of our close proximity, or were their dusky defenders + concealed, as well they might have been, along the banks of + the Pawnee, quietly awaiting our approach, and prepared to + greet us with their well-known war-whoop? These were + questions that were probably suggested to the mind of each + individual of my command. If we were discovered approaching + in the stealthy, suspicious manner which characterized our + movements, the hour being midnight, it would require a more + confiding nature than that of the Indian to assign a + friendly or peaceful motive to our conduct. The same + flashes of moonlight which gave us hurried glimpses of the + village enabled us to see our own column of horsemen + stretching its silent length far into the dim darkness, and + winding its course, like some huge anaconda about to envelop + its victim. + + The method by which it was determined to establish a cordon + of armed troopers about the fated village, was to direct + the march in a circle, with the village in the centre, + the commanding officer of each rear troop halting his + command at the proper point, and deploying his men similarly + to a line of skirmishers--the entire circle, when thus formed, + facing toward the village, and, distant from it perhaps a + few hundred yards. No sooner was our line completely formed + than the moon, as if deeming darkness no longer essential + to our success, appeared from behind her screen and lighted + up the entire scene. And beautiful it was! The great + circle of troops, each individual of which sat on his steed + silent as a statue, the dense foliage of the cotton trees + sheltering the bleached, skin-clad lodges of the red men, + the little stream in the midst murmuring undisturbedly in + its channel, all combined to produce an artistic effect, + as striking as it was interesting. But we were not there + to study artistic effects. The next step was to determine + whether we had captured an inhabited village, involving + almost necessarily a severe conflict with its savage + occupants, or whether the red man had again proven too + wily and crafty for his more civilized brothers. + + Directing the entire line of troopers to remain mounted + with carbines held at the "Advance," I dismounted, and + taking with me Gurrier, the half-breed, Dr. Coates, one of + our medical staff, and Lieutenant Moylan, the adjutant, + we proceeded on our hands and knees toward the village. + The prevailing opinion was that the Indians were still + asleep. I desired to approach near enough to the lodges + to enable the half-breed to hail the village in the Indian + tongue, and if possible establish friendly relations at once. + It became a question of prudence with us, which we discussed + in whispers as we proceeded on our "Tramp, tramp, tramp, + the boys are creeping," how far from our horses and how + near to the village we dared to go. If so few of us were + discovered entering the village in this questionable manner, + it was more than probable that, like the returners of stolen + property, we should be suitably rewarded and no questions + asked. The opinion of Gurrier, the half-breed, was eagerly + sought for and generally deferred to. His wife, + a full-blooded Cheyenne, was a resident of the village. + This with him was an additional reason for wishing a peaceful + termination to our efforts. When we had passed over + two-thirds of the distance between our horses and the + village, it was thought best to make our presence known. + Thus far not a sound had been heard to disturb the stillness + of the night. Gurrier called out at the top of his voice + in the Cheyenne tongue. The only response came from the + throats of a score or more of Indian dogs which set up a + fierce barking. At the same time one or two of our party + asserted that they saw figure moving beneath the trees. + Gurrier repeated his summons, but with no better results + than before. + + A hurried consultation ensued. The presence of so many dogs + in the village was regarded by the half-breed as almost + positive assurance that the Indians were still there. + Yet it was difficult to account for their silence. Gurrier + in a loud tone repeated who he was, and that our mission was + friendly. Still no answer. He then gave it as his opinion + that the Indians were on the alert, and were probably + waiting in the shadow of the trees for us to approach nearer, + when they would pounce upon us. This comforting opinion + induced another conference. We must ascertain the truth of + the matter; our party could do this as well as a larger + number, and to go back and send another party in our stead + could not be thought of. + + Forward! was the verdict. Each one grasped his revolver, + resolved to do his best, whether it was in running or + fighting. I think most of us would have preferred to take + our own chances at running. We had approached near enough + to see that some of the lodges were detached some distance + from the main encampment. Selecting the nearest of these, + we directed our advance on it. While all of us were full + of the spirit of adventure, and were further encouraged + with the idea that we were in the discharge of our duty, + there was scarcely one of us who would not have felt more + comfortable if we could have got back to our horses without + loss of pride. Yet nothing, under the circumstances, but + a positive order would have induced any one to withdraw. + + Cautiously approaching, on all fours, to within a few yards + of the nearest lodge, occasionally halting and listening to + discover whether the village was deserted or not, we finally + decided that the Indians had fled before the arrival of the + cavalry, and that none but empty lodges were before us. + This conclusion somewhat emboldened as well as accelerated + our progress. Arriving at the first lodge, one of our party + raised the curtain or mat which served as a door, and the + doctor and myself entered. The interior of the lodge was + dimly lighted by the dying embers of a small fire built in + the centre. All around us were to be seen the usual + adornments and articles which constitute the household + effects of an Indian family. Buffalo-robes were spread like + carpets over the floor; head-mats, used to recline on, were + arranged as if for the comfort of their owners; parfleches, + a sort of Indian band-box, with their contents apparently + undisturbed, were carefully stowed away under the edges or + borders of the lodge. These, with the door-mats, paint-bags, + rawhide ropes, and other articles of Indian equipment, + were left as if the owners had only absented themselves for + a brief period. To complete the picture of an Indian lodge, + over the fire hung a camp-kettle, in which, by means of the + dim light of the fire, we could see what had been intended + for the supper of the late occupants of the lodge. + The doctor, ever on the alert to discover additional items + of knowledge, whether pertaining to history or science, + snuffed the savoury odours which arose from the dark + recesses of the mysterious kettle. Casting about the lodge + for some instrument to aid him in his pursuit of knowledge, + he found a horn spoon, with which he began his investigation + of the contents, finally succeeding in getting possession + of a fragment which might have been the half of a duck or + rabbit, judging from its size merely. "Ah!" said the doctor, + in his most complacent manner, "here is the opportunity I + have long been waiting for. I have often desired to test + the Indian mode of cooking. What do you suppose this is?" + holding up the dripping morsel. Unable to obtain the + desired information, the doctor, whose naturally good + appetite had been sensibly sharpened by his recent exercise, + set to with a will and ate heartily of the mysterious + contents of the kettle. He was only satisfied on one point, + that it was delicious--a dish fit for a king. Just then + Gurrier, the half-breed, entered the lodge. He could solve + the mystery, having spent years among the Indians. To him + the doctor appealed for information. Fishing out a huge + piece, and attacking it with the voracity of a hungry wolf, + he was not long in determining what the doctor had supped + heartily upon. His first words settled the mystery: "Why, + this is dog." I will not attempt to repeat the few but + emphatic words uttered by the heartily disgusted member of + the medical fraternity as he rushed from the lodge. + + Other members of our small party had entered other lodges, + only to find them, like the first, deserted. But little of + the furniture belonging to the lodges had been taken, + showing how urgent and hasty had been the flight of the + owners. To aid in the examination of the village, + reinforcements were added to our party, and an exploration + of each lodge was determined upon. At the same time a + messenger was despatched to General Hancock, informing him + of the flight of the Indians. Some of the lodges were + closed by having brush or timber piled up against the + entrance, as if to preserve the contents. Others had huge + pieces cut from their sides, these pieces evidently being + carried away to furnish temporary shelter for the fugitives. + In most of the lodges the fires were still burning. I had + entered several without discovering anything important. + Finally, in company with the doctor, I arrived at one the + interior of which was quite dark, the fire having almost + died out. Procuring a lighted fagot, I prepared to explore it, + as I had done the others; but no sooner had I entered the + lodge than my fagot failed me, leaving me in total darkness. + Handing it to the doctor to be relighted, I began to feel + my way about the interior of the lodge. I had almost made + the circuit when my hand came in contact with a human foot; + at the same time a voice unmistakably Indian, and which + evidently came from the owner of the foot, convinced me that + I was not alone. My first impressions were that in their + hasty flight the Indians had gone off, leaving this one + asleep. My next, very naturally, related to myself. + I would gladly have placed myself on the outside of the + lodge, and there matured plans for interviewing its occupant; + but unfortunately to reach the entrance of the lodge, I must + either pass over or around the owner of the before-mentioned + foot and voice. Could I have been convinced that among + its other possessions there was neither tomahawk nor + scalping-knife, pistol nor war-club, or any similar article + of the noble red-man's toilet, I would have risked an attempt + to escape through the low narrow opening of the lodge; + but who ever saw an Indian without one or all of these + interesting trinkets? Had I made the attempt, I should + have expected to encounter either the keen edge of the + scalping-knife or the blow of the tomahawk, and to have + engaged in a questionable struggle for life. This would + not do. I crouched in silence for a few moments, hoping + the doctor would return with the lighted fagot. I need not + say that each succeeding moment spent in the darkness of + that lodge seemed an age. I could hear a slight movement + on the part of my unknown neighbour, which did not add to + my comfort. Why does not the doctor return? At last I + discovered the approach of a light on the outside. When it + neared the entrance, I called the doctor and informed him + that an Indian was in the lodge, and that he had better + have his weapons ready for a conflict. I had, upon + discovering the foot, drawn my hunting-knife from its + scabbard, and now stood waiting the denouement. With his + lighted fagot in one hand and cocked revolver in the other, + the doctor cautiously entered the lodge. And there directly + between us, wrapped in a buffalo-robe, lay the cause of my + anxiety--a little Indian girl, probably ten years old; + not a full-blood, but a half-breed. She was terribly + frightened at finding herself in our hands, with none of + her people near. Other parties in exploring the deserted + village found an old, decrepit Indian of the Sioux tribe, + who had also been deserted, owing to his infirmities and + inability to travel with the tribe. Nothing was gleaned + from our search of the village which might indicate the + direction of the flight. General Hancock, on learning the + situation of affairs, despatched some companies of infantry + with orders to replace the cavalry and protect the village + and its contents from disturbance until its final disposition + could be determined upon, and it was decided that with eight + troops of cavalry I should start in pursuit of the Indians + at early dawn on the following morning. + + The Indians, after leaving their village, went up on the + Smoky Hill, and committed the most horrible depredations + upon the scattered settlers in that region. Upon this news, + General Hancock issued the following order:-- + + "As a punishment of the bad faith practised by the Cheyennes + and Sioux who occupied the Indian village at this place, and + as a chastisement for murders and depredations committed + since the arrival of the command at this point, by the + people of these tribes, the village recently occupied by + them, which is now in our hands, will be utterly destroyed." + + The Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Apaches had been united under + one agency; the Kiowas and Comanches under another. + As General Hancock's expedition had reference to all these + tribes, he had invited both the agents to accompany him + into the Indian country and be present at all interviews + with the representatives of these tribes, for the purpose, + as the invitation stated, of showing the Indians "that the + officers of the government are acting in harmony." + + In conversation with the general the agents admitted that + Indians had been guilty of all the outrages charged against + them, but each asserted the innocence of the particular + tribes under his charge, and endeavoured to lay their crimes + at the door of their neighbours. + + Here was positive evidence from the agents themselves that + the Indians against whom we were operating were deserving + of severe punishment. The only conflicting portion of the + testimony was as to which tribe was most guilty. Subsequent + events proved, however, that all of the five tribes named, + as well as the Sioux, had combined for a general war + throughout the plains and along our frontier. Such a war + had been threatened to our post commanders along the + Arkansas on many occasions during the winter. The movement + of the Sioux and Cheyennes toward the north indicated that + the principal theatre of military operations during the + summer would be between the Smoky Hill and Platte rivers. + General Hancock accordingly assembled the principal chiefs + of the Kiowas and Arapahoes in council at Fort Dodge, + hoping to induce them to remain at peace and observe their + treaty obligations. + + The most prominent chiefs in council were Satanta, Lone Wolf, + and Kicking Bird of the Kiowas, and Little Raven and Yellow + Bear of the Arapahoes. During the council extravagant + promises of future good behaviour were made by these chiefs. + So effective and convincing was the oratorical effort of + Satanta, that at the termination of his address, the + department commander and his staff presented him with the + uniform coat, sash, and hat of a major-general. In return + for this compliment, Satanta, within a few weeks, attacked + the post at which the council was held, arrayed in his + new uniform. + +In the spring of 1878, the Indians commenced a series of depredations +along the Santa Fe Trail and against the scattered settlers of the +frontier, that were unparalleled in their barbarity. General Alfred +Sully, a noted Indian fighter, who commanded the district of the +Upper Arkansas, early concentrated a portion of the Seventh and Tenth +Cavalry and Third Infantry along the line of the Old Santa Fe Trail, +and kept out small expeditions of scouting parties to protect the +overland coaches and freight caravans; but the troops effected very +little in stopping the devilish acts of the Indians, who were now +fully determined to carry out their threats of a general war, which +culminated in the winter expedition of General Sheridan, who completely +subdued them, and forced all the tribes on reservations; since which +time there has never been any trouble with the plains Indians worthy +of mention.[69] + +General Sully, about the 1st of September, with eight companies of +the Seventh Cavalry and five companies of infantry, left Fort Dodge, +on the Arkansas, on a hurried expedition against the Kiowas, Arapahoes, +and Cheyennes. The command marched in a general southeasterly +direction, and reached the sand hills of the Beaver and Wolf rivers, +by a circuitous route, on the fifth day. When nearly through that +barren region, they were attacked by a force of eight hundred of the +allied tribes under the leadership of the famous Kiowa chief, Satanta. +A running fight was kept up with the savages on the first day, +in which two of the cavalry were killed and one wounded. + +That night the savages came close enough to camp to fire into it +(an unusual proceeding in Indian warfare, as they rarely molest +troops during the night), I now quote from Custer again: + The next day General Sully directed his march down the + valley of the Beaver; but just as his troops were breaking + camp, the long wagon-train having already "pulled out," and + the rear guard of the command having barely got into their + saddles, a party of between two and three hundred warriors, + who had evidently in some inexplicable manner contrived to + conceal themselves until the proper moment, dashed into the + deserted camp within a few yards of the rear of the troops, + and succeeded in cutting off a few led horses and two of + the cavalrymen who, as is often the case, had lingered a + moment behind the column. + + Fortunately, the acting adjutant of the cavalry, Brevet + Captain A. E. Smith, was riding at the rear of the column + and witnessed the attack of the Indians. Captain Hamilton,[70] + of the Seventh Cavalry, was also present in command of the + rear guard. Wheeling to the rightabout, he at once prepared + to charge the Indians and attempt the rescue of the two + troopers who were being carried off before his very eyes. + At the same time, Captain Smith, as representative of the + commanding officer of the cavalry, promptly took the + responsibility of directing a squadron of the cavalry to + wheel out of column and advance in support of Captain + Hamilton's guard. With this hastily formed detachment, + the Indians, still within pistol-range, but moving off with + their prisoners, were gallantly charged and so closely + pressed that they were forced to relinquish one of their + prisoners, but not before shooting him through the body and + leaving him on the ground, as they supposed, mortally wounded. + The troops continued to charge the retreating Indians, + upon whom they were gaining, determined, if possible, + to effect the rescue of their remaining comrade. They were + advancing down one slope while the Indians, just across + a ravine, were endeavouring to escape with their prisoner + up the opposite ascent, when a peremptory order reached the + officers commanding the pursuing force to withdraw their men + and reform the column at once. The terrible fate awaiting + the unfortunate trooper carried off by the Indians spread + a deep gloom throughout the command. All were too familiar + with the horrid customs of the savages to hope for a moment + that the captive would be reserved for aught but a slow, + lingering death, from tortures the most horrible and painful + which blood-thirsty minds could suggest. Such was the truth + in his case, as we learned afterwards when peace (?) was + established with the tribes then engaged in war. + + The expedition proceeded down the valley of the Beaver, + the Indians contesting every step of the way. In the + afternoon, about three o'clock, the troops arrived at + a ridge of sand hills a few miles southeast of the + presentsite of Camp Supply, where quite a determined + engagement took place between the command and the three + tribes, Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Kiowas, the Indians + being the assailants. The Indians seemed to have reserved + their strongest efforts until the troops and train had + advanced well into the sand hills, when a most obstinate + resistance--and well conducted, too--was offered the + farther advance of the troops. It was evident that the + troops were probably nearing the Indian villages, and that + this opposition to further advance was to save them. The + character of the country immediately about the troops was + not favourable to the operations of cavalry; the surface + of the rolling plain was cut up by irregular and closely + located sand hills, too steep and sandy to allow cavalry + to move with freedom, yet capable of being easily cleared + of savages by troops fighting on foot. The Indians took + post on the hilltops and began a harassing fire on the + troops and train. Captain Yates, with a single troop of + cavalry, was ordered forward to drive them away. This was + a proceeding which did not seem to meet with favour from + the savages. Captain Yates could drive them wherever he + encountered them, but they appeared in increased numbers + at some other threatened point. After contending in this + non-effective manner for a couple of hours, the impression + arose in the minds of some that the train could not be + conducted through the sand hills in the face of the strong + opposition offered by the Indians. The order was issued + to turn about and withdraw. The order was executed, and + the troop and train, followed by the exultant Indians, + retired a few miles to the Beaver, and encamped for the + night on the ground afterward known as Camp Supply. + + Captain Yates had caused to be brought off the field, when + his troop was ordered to retire, the body of one of his men, + who had been slain in the fight. As the troops were to + continue their backward march next day, and it was impossible + to transport the dead body further, Captain Yates ordered + preparations made for interring it in camp that night. + Knowing that the Indians would thoroughly search the deserted + camp-ground almost before the troops should get out of sight, + and would be quick, with their watchful eyes, to detect a + grave, and, if successful in discovering it, would unearth + the body in order to get the scalp, directions were given + to prepare the grave after nightfall; and the spot selected + would have baffled any one but an Indian. The grave was + dug under the picket line to which the seventy or eighty + horses of the troop would be tethered during the night, + so that their constant tramping and pawing should completely + cover up and obliterate all traces. The following morning, + even those who had performed the sad rites of burial to + their fallen comrade could scarcely have indicated the exact + location of the grave. Yet when we returned to that point + a few weeks later, it was discovered that the wily savages + had found the place, unearthed the body, and removed the + scalp of their victim on the day following the interment.[71] + +After leaving the camp at Supply, the Indians gradually increased +their force, until they mustered about two thousand warriors. +For four days and nights they hovered around the command, and by the +time it reached Mulberry Creek there were not one thousand rounds of +ammunition left in the whole force of troopers and infantrymen. +At the creek, the incessant charges of the now infuriated savages +compelled the troops to use this small amount held in reserve, and +they found themselves almost at the mercy of the Indians. But before +they were absolutely defenceless, Colonel Keogh had sent a trusty +messenger in the night to Fort Dodge for a supply of cartridges to +meet the command at the creek, which fortunately arrived there +in time to save that spot from being a veritable "last ditch." + +The savages, in the little but exciting encounter at the creek before +the ammunition arrived, would ride up boldly toward the squadrons of +cavalry, discharge the shots from their revolvers, and then, in their +rage, throw them at the skirmishers on the flanks of the supply-train, +while the latter, nearly out of ammunition, were compelled to sit +quietly in their saddles, idle spectators of the extraordinary scene.[72] + +Many of the Indians were killed on their ponies, however, by those +who were fortunate enough to have a few cartridges left; but none +were captured, as the savages had taken their usual precaution to +tie themselves to their animals, and as soon as dead were dragged +away by them. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. +INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. + + + +The tourist who to-day, in a palace car, surrounded by all the +conveniences of our American railway service, commences his tour of +the prairies at the Missouri River, enters classic ground the moment +the train leaves the muddy flood of that stream on its swift flight +toward the golden shores of the Pacific. + +He finds a large city at the very portals of the once far West, +with all the bustle and energy which is so characteristic of American +enterprise. + +Gradually, as he is whirled along the iron trail, the woods lessen; +he catches views of beautiful intervales; a bright little stream +flashes and foams in the sunlight as the trees grow fewer, and soon +he emerges on the broad sea of prairie, shut in only by the great +circle of the heavens. + +Dotting this motionless ocean everywhere, like whitened sails, are +quiet homes, real argosies ventured by the sturdy and industrious +people who have fought their way through almost insurmountable +difficulties to the tranquillity which now surrounds them. + +A few miles west of Topeka, the capital of Kansas, when the train +reaches the little hamlet of Wakarusa, the track of the railroad +commences to follow the route of the Old Santa Fe Trail. At that +point, too, the Oregon Trail branches off for the heavily timbered +regions of the Columbia. Now begins the classic ground of the once +famous highway to New Mexico; nearly every stream, hill, and wooded +dell has its story of adventure in those days when the railroad was +regarded as an impossibility, and the region beyond the Missouri as +a veritable desert. + +After some hours' rapid travelling, if our tourist happens to be a +passenger on the "California Limited," the swift train that annihilates +distance, he will pass by towns, hamlets, and immense cattle ranches, +stopping only at county-seats, and enter the justly famous Arkansas +valley at the city of Hutchinson. The Old Trail now passes a few +miles north of this busy place, which is noted for its extensive +salt works, nor does the railroad again meet with it until the site +of old Fort Zarah is reached, forty-seven miles west of Hutchinson, +though it runs nearly parallel to the once great highway at varying +distances for the whole detour. + +The ruins of the once important military post may be seen from the +car-windows on the right, as the train crosses the iron bridge +spanning the Walnut, and here the Old Trail exactly coincides with +the railroad, the track of the latter running immediately on the +old highway. + +Three miles westward from the classic little Walnut the Old Trail ran +through what is now the Court House Square of the town of Great Bend; +it may be seen from the station, and on that very spot occurred the +terrible fight of Captains Booth and Hallowell in 1864. + +Thirteen miles further mountainward, on the right of the railroad, +not far from the track, stands all that remains of the once dreaded +Pawnee Rock. It lies just beyond the limits of the little hamlet +bearing its name. It would not be recognized by any of the old +plainsmen were they to come out of their isolated graves; for it is +only a disintegrated, low mass of sandstone now, utilized for the base +purposes of a corral, in which the village herd of milch cows lie down +at night and chew their cuds, such peaceful transformation has that +great civilizer, the locomotive, wrought in less than two decades. + +Another five or six miles, and the train crosses Ash Creek, which, +too, was once one of the favourite haunts of the Pawnee and Comanche +on their predatory excursions, in the days when the mules and horses +of passing freight caravans excited their cupidity. A short whirl +again, and the town of Larned, lying peacefully on the Arkansas and +Pawnee Fork, is reached. Immediately opposite the centre of the +street through which the railroad runs, and which was also the course +of the Old Trail, lying in the Arkansas River, close to its northern +bank, is a small thickly-wooded island, now reached by a bridge, that +is famous as the battle-ground of a terrible conflict thirty years ago, +between the Pawnees and Cheyennes, hereditary enemies, in which the +latter tribe was cruelly defeated. + +The railroad bridge crosses Pawnee Fork at the precise spot where +the Old Trail did. This locality has been the scene of some of the +bloodiest encounters between the various tribes of savages themselves, +and between them and the freight caravans, the overland coaches, +and every other kind of outfit that formerly attempted the passage of +the now peaceful stream. In fact, the whole region from Walnut Creek +to the mouth of the Pawnee, which includes in its area Ash Creek +and Pawnee Rock, seemed to be the greatest resort for the Indians, +who hovered about the Santa Fe Trail for the sole purpose of robbery +and murder; it was a very lucky caravan or coach, indeed, that passed +through that portion of the route without being attacked. + +All the once dangerous points of the Old Trail having been successively +passed--Cow Creek, Big and Little Coon, and Ash Creek, Fort Dodge, +Fort Aubrey,[73] and Point of Rocks--the tourist arrives at last at +the foot-hills. At La Junta the railroad separates into two branches; +one going to Denver, the other on to New Mexico. Here, a relatively +short distance to the northwest, on the right of the train, may be +seen the ruins of Bent's Fort, the tourist having already passed the +site of the once famous Big Timbers, a favourite winter camping-ground +of the Cheyennes and Arapahoes; but everywhere around him there reigns +such perfect quiet and pastoral beauty, he might imagine that the +peaceful landscape upon which he looks had never been a bloody arena. + +I suggest to the lover of nature that he should cross the Raton Range +in the early morning, or late in the afternoon; for then the +magnificent scenery of the Trail over the high divide into New Mexico +assumes its most beautiful aspect. + +In approaching the range from the Old Trail, or now from the railroad, +their snow-clad peaks may be seen at a distance of sixty miles. +In the era of caravans and pack-trains, for hour after hour, as they +moved slowly toward the goal of their ambition, the summit of the +fearful pathway on the divide, the huge forms of the mountains seemed +to recede, and yet ascend higher. On the next day's journey their +outlines appeared more irregular and ragged. Drawing still nearer, +their base presented a long, dark strip stretching throughout their +whole course, ever widening until it seemed like a fathomless gulf, +separating the world of reality from the realms of imagination beyond. + +Another weary twenty miles of dusty travel, and the black void slowly +dissolved, and out of the shadows lines of broken, sterile, +ferruginous buttes and detached masses of rocks, whose soilless +surface refuses sustenance, save to a few scattered, stunted pines +and lifeless mosses, emerged to view. + +The progress of the weary-footed mules or oxen was now through ravines +and around rocks; up narrow paths which the melting snows have +washed out; sometimes between beetling cliffs, often to their very +edge, where hundreds of feet below the Trail the tall trees seemed +diminished into shrubs. Then again the road led over an immense broad +terrace, for thousands of yards around, with a bright lake gleaming +in the refracted light, and brilliant Alpine plants waving their +beautiful flowers on its margin. Still the coveted summit appeared +so far off as to be beyond the range of vision, and it seemed as if, +instead of ascending, the entire mass underneath had been receding, +like the mountains of ice over which Arctic explorers attempt to reach +the pole. Now the tortuous Trail passed through snow-wreaths which +the winds had eddied into indentations; then over bright, glassy +surfaces of ice and fragments of rocks, until the pinnacle was reached. +Nearer, along the broad successive terraces of the opposite mountains, +the evergreen pine, the cedar, with its stiff, angular branches, and +the cottonwood, with its varied curves and bright colours, were +crowded into bunches or strung into zigzag lines, interspersed with +shrubs and mountain plants, among which the flaming cactus was +conspicuous. To the right and left, the bare cones of the barren +peaks rose in multitude, with their calm, awful forms shrouded in snow, +and their dark shadows reflected far into the valleys, like spectres +from a chaotic world. + +In going through the Raton Pass, the Old Santa Fe Trail meandered up +a steep valley, enclosed on either side by abrupt hills covered with +pine and masses of gray rock. The road ran along the points of +varying elevations, now in the stony bed of Raton Creek, which it +crossed fifty-three times, the sparkling, flitting waters of the +bubbling stream leaping and foaming against the animals' feet as they +hauled the great wagons of the freight caravans over the tortuous +passage. The creek often rushed rapidly under large flat stones, +lost to sight for a moment, then reappearing with a fresh impetus and +dashing over its flinty, uneven bed until it mingled with the pure +waters of Le Purgatoire. + +Still ascending, the scenery assumed a bolder, rougher cast; then +sudden turns gave you hurried glimpses of the great valley below. +A gentle dell sloped to the summit of the pass on the west, then, +rising on the east by a succession of terraces, the bald, bare cliff +was reached, overlooking the whole region for many miles, and this is +Raton Peak.[74] + +The extreme top of this famous peak was only reached after more than +an hour's arduous struggle. On the lofty plateau the caravans and +pack-trains rested their tired animals. Here, too, the lonely trapper, +when crossing the range in quest of beaver, often chose this lofty +spot on which to kindle his little fire and broil juicy steaks of the +black-tail deer, the finest venison in the world; but before he +indulged in the savoury morsels, if he was in the least superstitious +or devout, or inspired by the sublime scene around him, he lighted +his pipe, and after saluting the elevated ridge on which he sat by the +first whiff of the fragrant kinnikinick, Indian-fashion, he in turn +offered homage in the same manner to the sky above him, the earth +beneath, and to the cardinal points of the compass, and was then +prepared to eat his solitary meal in a spirit of thankfulness. + +Far below this magnificent vantage-ground lies the valley of the +Rio Las Animas Perdidas. On the other verge of the great depression +rise the peerless, everlastingly snow-wreathed Spanish Peaks,[75] +whose giant summits are grim sentinels that for untold ages have +witnessed hundreds of sanguinary conflicts between the wily nomads +of the vast plains watered by the silent Arkansas. + +All around you snow-clad mountains lift their serrated crowns above +the horizon, dim, white, and indistinct, like icebergs seen at sea +by moonlight; others, nearer, more rugged, naked of verdure, and +irregular in contour, seem to lose their lofty summits in the intense +blue of the sky. + +Fisher's Peak, which is in full view from the train, was named from +the following circumstance: Captain Fisher was a German artillery +officer commanding a battery in General Kearney's Army of the West in +the conquest of New Mexico and was encamped at the base of the peak +to which he involuntarily gave his name. He was intently gazing at +the lofty summit wrapped in the early mist, and not being familiar +with the illusory atmospheric effects of the region, he thought that +to go there would be merely a pleasant promenade. So, leaving word +that he would return to breakfast, he struck out at a brisk walk for +the crest. That whole day, the following night, and the succeeding +day, dragged their weary hours on, but no tidings of the commanding +officer were received at the battery, and ill rumours were current +of his death by Indians or bears, when, just as his mess were about +to take their seats at the table for the evening meal, their captain +put in an appearance, a very tired but a wiser man. He started to go +to the peak, and he went there! + +On the summit of another rock-ribbed elevation close by, the tourist +will notice the shaft of an obelisk. It is over the grave of George +Simpson, once a noted mountaineer in the days of the great fur +companies. For a long time he made his home there, and it was his +dying request that the lofty peak he loved so well while living should +be his last resting-place. The peak is known as "Simpson's Rest," +and is one of the notable features of the rugged landscape. + +Pike's Peak, far away to the north, intensely white and silvery in the +clear sky, hangs like a great dome high in the region of the clouds, +a marked object, worthy to commemorate the indefatigable efforts of +the early voyageur whose name it bears. + +In this wonderful locality, both Pike's Peak and the snowy range over +two hundred miles from our point of observation really seem to the +uninitiated as if a brisk walk of an hour or two would enable one to +reach them, so deceptive is the atmosphere of these elevated regions. + +About two miles from the crest of the range, yet over seven thousand +feet above the sea-level, in a pretty little depression about as +large as a medium-sized corn-field in the Eastern States, Uncle +Dick Wooton lived, and here, too, was his toll-gate. The veteran +mountaineer erected a substantial house of adobe, after the style +of one of the old-time Southern plantation residences, a memory, +perhaps, of his youth, when he raised tobacco in his father's fields +in Kentucky.[76] + +The most charming hour in which to be on the crest of Raton Range is +in the afternoon, when the weather is clear and calm. As the night +comes on apace in the distant valley beneath, the evening shadows +drop down, pencilled with broad bands of rosy light as they creep +slowly across the beautiful landscape, while the rugged vista below +is enveloped in a diffused haze like that which marks the season of +the Indian summer in the lower great plains. Above, the sky curves +toward the relatively restricted horizon, with not a cloud to dim +its intense blue, nowhere so beautiful as in these lofty altitudes. + +The sun, however, does not always shine resplendently; there are +times when the most terrific storms of wind, hail, and rain change +the entire aspect of the scene. Fortunately, these violent bursts +never last long; they vanish as rapidly as they come, leaving in +their wake the most phenomenally beautiful rainbows, whose trailing +splendours which they owe to the dry and rare air of the region, and +its high refractory power, are gorgeous in the extreme. + +In 1872 the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad entered the +valley of the Upper Arkansas. Twenty-four years ago, on a delicious +October afternoon, I stood on the absolutely level plateau at the +mouth of Pawnee Fork where that historic creek debouches into the +great river. The remembrance of that view will never pass from my +memory, for it showed a curious temporary blending of two distinct +civilizations. One, the new, marking the course of empire in its +restless march westward; the other, that of the aboriginal, which, +like a dissolving view, was soon to fade away and be forgotten. + +The box-elders and cottonwoods thinly covering the creek-bottom were +gradually donning their autumn dress of russet, and the mirage had +already commenced its fantastic play with the landscape. On the sides +and crests of the sparsely grassed sand hills south of the Arkansas +a few buffaloes were grazing in company with hundreds of Texas cattle, +while in the broad valley beneath, small flocks of graceful antelope +were lying down, quietly ruminating their midday meal. + +In the distance, far eastwardly, a train of cars could be seen +approaching; as far as the eye could reach, on either side of the +track, the virgin sod had been turned to the sun; the "empire of +the plough" was established, and the march of immigration in its +hunger for the horizon had begun. + +Half a mile away from the bridge spanning the Fork, under the grateful +shade of the largest trees, about twenty skin lodges were irregularly +grouped; on the brown sod of the sun-cured grass a herd of a hundred +ponies were lazily feeding, while a troop of dusky little children +were chasing the yellow butterflies from the dried and withered +sunflower stalks which once so conspicuously marked the well-worn +highway to the mountains. These Indians, the remnant of a tribe +powerful in the years of savage sovereignty, were on their way, +in charge of their agent, to their new homes, on the reservation +just allotted to them by the government, a hundred miles south of +the Arkansas. + +Their primitive lodges contrasted strangely with the peaceful little +sod-houses, dugouts, and white cottages of the incoming settlers on +the public lands, with the villages struggling into existence, and +above all with the rapidly moving cars; unmistakable evidences that +the new civilization was soon to sweep the red men before it like +chaff before the wind. + +Farther to the west, a caravan of white-covered wagons loaded with +supplies for some remote military post, the last that would ever +travel the Old Trail, was slowly crawling toward the setting sun. +I watched it until only a cloud of dust marked its place low down +on the horizon, and it was soon lost sight of in the purple mist +that was rapidly overspreading the far-reaching prairie. + +It was the beginning of the end; on the 9th of February, 1880, the +first train over the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad arrived +at Santa Fe and the Old Trail as a route of commerce was closed +forever. The once great highway is now only a picture in the memory +of the few who have travelled its weary course, following the windings +of the silent Arkansas, on to the portals that guard the rugged +pathway leading to the shores of the blue Pacific. + + + + +FOOTNOTES. + + + +[1] The whole country watered by the Mississippi and Missouri was +called Florida at that time. + +[2] The celebrated Jesuit, author of _The History of New France_, +_Journals of a Voyage to North America_, _Letters to the Duchess_, etc. + +[3] Otoes. + +[4] Iowas. + +[5] Boulevard, Promenade. + +[6] Notes of a Military Reconnoissance from Fort Leavenworth, +in Missouri, to San Diego, in California, including parts of the +Arkansas, Del Norte, and Gila Rivers. Brevet Major W. H. Emory, +Corps of Topographical Engineers, United States Army, 1846. + +[7] Hon. W. F. Arny, in his Centennial Celebration Address at Santa Fe, +July 4, 1876. + +[8] Edwards, _Conquest of New Mexico_. + +[9] I think this is Bancroft's idea. + +[10] _Historical Sketches of New Mexico_, L. Bradford Prince, late +Chief Justice of New Mexico, 1883. + +[11] D. H. Coyner, 1847. + +[12] He was travelling parallel to the Old Santa Fe Trail all the time, +but did not know it until he was overtaken by a band of Kaw Indians. + +[13] McKnight was murdered south of the Arkansas by the Comanches +in the winter of 1822. + +[14] Chouteau's Island. + +[15] _Hennepin's Journal_. + +[16] The line between the United States and Mexico (or New Spain, +as it was called) was defined by a treaty negotiated in 1819, +between the Chevalier de Onis, then Spanish minister at Washington, +and John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State. According to its +provisions, the boundary between Mexico and Louisiana, which had been +added to the Union, commenced with the river Sabine at its entrance +into the Gulf of Mexico, at about the twenty-ninth degree of north +latitude and the ninety-fourth degree of longitude, west from +Greenwich, and followed it as far as its junction with the Red River +of Natchitoches, which then served to mark the frontier up to the +one hundredth degree of west longitude, where the line ran directly +north to the Arkansas, which it followed to its source at the +forty-second degree of north latitude, whence another straight line +was drawn up the same parallel to the Pacific coast. + +[17] This tribe kept up its reputation under the dreaded Satanta, +until 1868--a period of forty years--when it was whipped into +submission by the gallant Custer. Satanta was its war chief, +one of the most cruel savages the great plains ever produced. +He died a few years ago in the state prison of Texas. + +[18] McNess Creek is on the old Cimarron Trail to Santa Fe, a little +east of a line drawn south from Bent's Fort. + +[19] Mr. Bryant, of Kansas, who died a few years ago, was one of +the pioneers in the trade with Santa Fe. Previous to his decease +he wrote for a Kansas newspaper a narrative of his first trip across +the great plains; an interesting monograph of hardship and suffering. +For the use of this document I am indebted to Hon. Sol. Miller, +the editor of the journal in which it originally appeared. I have +also used very extensively the notes of Mr. William Y. Hitt, one of +the Bryant party, whose son kindly placed them at my disposal, and +copied liberally from the official report of Major Bennett Riley-- +afterward the celebrated general of Mexican War fame, and for whom +the Cavalry Depot in Kansas is named; as also from the journal of +Captain Philip St. George Cooke, who accompanied Major Riley on +his expedition. + +[20] Chouteau's Island, at the mouth of Sand Creek. + +[21] Valley of the Upper Arkansas. + +[22] About three miles east of the town of Great Bend, Barton County, +Kansas. + +[23] The Old Santa Fe Trail crosses the creek some miles north of +Hutchinson, and coincides with the track again at the mouth of +Walnut Creek, three miles east of Great Bend. + +[24] There are many conflicting accounts in regard to the sum +Don Antonio carried with him on that unfortunate trip. Some +authorities put it as high as sixty thousand; I have taken a mean +of the various sums, and as this method will suffice in mathematics, +perhaps we can approximate the truth in this instance. + +[25] General Emory of the Union army during the Civil War. He made +an official report of the country through which the Army of the West +passed, accompanied by maps, and his _Reconnoissance in New Mexico +and California_, published by the government in 1848, is the first +authentic record of the region, considered topographically and +geologically. + +[26] _Doniphan's Expedition, containing an account of the Conquest +of New Mexico_, etc. John T. Hughes, A.B., of the First Regiment +of Missouri Cavalry. 1850. + +[27] Deep Gorge. + +[28] Colonel Leavenworth, for whom Fort Leavenworth is named, and +who built several army posts in the far West. + +[29] Colonel A. G. Boone, a grandson of the immortal Daniel, was one +of the grandest old mountaineers I ever knew. He was as loyal as +anybody, but honest in his dealings with the Indians, and that was +often a fault in the eyes of those at Washington who controlled +these agents. Kit Carson was of the same honest class as Boone, +and he, too, was removed for the same cause. + +[30] A narrow defile on the Trail, about ninety miles east of +Fort Union. It is called the "canyon of the Canadian, or Red, River," +and is situated between high walls of earth and rock. It was once +a very dangerous spot on account of the ease and rapidity with which +the savages could ambush themselves. + +[31] Carson, Wooton, and all other expert mountaineers, when following +a trail, could always tell just what time had elapsed since it was +made. This may seem strange to the uninitiated, but it was part +of their necessary education. They could tell what kind of a track +it was, which way the person or animal had walked, and even the tribe +to which the savage belonged, either by the shape of the moccasin +or the arrows which were occasionally dropped. + +[32] Lieutenant Bell belonged to the Second Dragoons. He was +conspicuous in extraordinary marches and in action, and also an +accomplished horseman and shot, once running and killing five buffalo +in a quarter of a mile. He died early in 1861, and his death was +a great loss to the service. + +[33] Known to this day as "The Cheyenne Bottoms." + +[34] Lone Wolf was really the head chief of the Kiowas. + +[35] The battle lasted three days. + +[36] Kicking Bird was ever afterward so regarded by the authorities +of the Indian department. + +[37] Lorenzo Thomas, adjutant-general of the United States army. + +[38] Kendall's _Santa Fe Expedition_ may be found in all the large +libraries. + +[39] A summer-house, bower, or arbour. + +[40] Frank Hall, Chicago, 1885. + +[41] The greater portion of this chapter I originally wrote for +_Harper's Weekly_. By the kind permission of the publishers, I am +permitted to use it here. + +[42] These statistics I have carefully gathered from the freight +departments of the railroads, which kept a record of all the bones +that were shipped, and from the purchasers of the carbon works, +who paid out the money at various points. Some of the bones, however, +may have been on the ground for a longer time, as decay is very slow +in the dry air of the plains. + +[43] La Jeunesse was one of the bravest of the old French Canadian +trappers. He was a warm friend of Kit Carson and was killed by the +Indians in the following manner. They were camping one night in the +mountains; Kit, La Jeunesse, and others had wrapped themselves up +in their blankets near the fire, and were sleeping soundly; Fremont +sat up until after midnight reading letters he had received from +the United States, after finishing which, he, too, turned in and +fell asleep. Everything was quiet for a while, when Kit was awakened +by a noise that sounded like the stroke of an axe. Rising cautiously, +he discovered Indians in the camp; he gave the alarm at once, +but two of his companions were dead. One of them was La Jeunesse, +and the noise he had heard was the tomahawk as it buried itself +in the brave fellow's head. + +[44] This black is made from a species of plumbago found on the hills +of the region. + +[45] The Pawnees and Cheyennes were hereditary enemies, and they +frequently met in sanguinary conflict. + +[46] A French term Anglicised, as were many other foreign words by +the trappers in the mountains. Its literal meaning is, arrow fender, +for from it the plains Indians construct their shields; it is +buffalo-hide prepared in a certain manner. + +[47] Boiling Spring River. + +[48] For some reason the Senate refused to confirm the appointment, +and he had consequently no connection with the regular army. + +[49] Point of Rocks is six hundred and forty seven miles from +Independence, and was always a favourite place of resort for the +Indians of the great plains; consequently it was one of the most +dangerous camping-spots for the freight caravans on the Trail. +It comprises a series of continuous hills, which project far out on +the prairie in bold relief. They end abruptly in a mass of rocks, +out of which gushes a cold, refreshing spring, which is, of course, +the main attraction of the place. The Trail winds about near this +point, and many encounters with the various tribes have occurred there. + +[50] "Little Mountain." + +[51] General Gatlin was a North Carolinian, and seceded with his +State at the breaking out of the Rebellion, but refused to leave +his native heath to fight, so indelibly was he impressed with the +theory of State rights. He was willing to defend the soil of +North Carolina, but declined to step across its boundary to repel +invasion in other States. + +[52] The name of "Crow," as applied to the once powerful nation +of mountain Indians, is a misnomer, the fault of some early +interpreter. The proper appellation is "Sparrowhawks," but they +are officially recognized as "Crows." + +[53] Kit Carson, ten years before, when on his first journey, met +with the same adventure while on post at Pawnee Rock. + +[54] The fusee was a fire-lock musket with an immense bore, from +which either slugs or balls could be shot, although not with any +great degree of accuracy. + +[55] The Indians always knew when the caravans were to pass certain +points on the Trail, by their runners or spies probably. + +[56] It was one of the rigid laws of Indian hospitality always to +respect the person of any one who voluntarily entered their camps +or temporary halting-places. As long as the stranger, red or white, +remained with them, he enjoyed perfect immunity from harm; but after +he had left, although he had progressed but half a mile, it was just +as honourable to follow and kill him. + +[57] In their own fights with their enemies one or two of the +defeated party are always spared, and sent back to their tribe to +carry the news of the slaughter. + +[58] The story of the way in which this name became corrupted into +"Picketwire," by which it is generally known in New Mexico, is this: +When Spain owned all Mexico and Florida, as the vast region of the +Mississippi valley was called, long before the United States had +an existence as a separate government, the commanding officer at +Santa Fe received an order to open communication with the country +of Florida. For this purpose an infantry regiment was selected. +It left Santa Fe rather late in the season, and wintered at a point +on the Old Trail now known as Trinidad. In the spring, the colonel, +leaving all camp-followers behind him, both men and women, marched +down the stream, which flows for many miles through a magnificent +canyon. Not one of the regiment returned or was ever heard of. +When all hope had departed from the wives, children, and friends +left behind at Trinidad, information was sent to Santa Fe, and a wail +went up through the land. The priests and people then called this +stream "El Rio de las Animas Perditas" ("The river of lost souls"). +Years after, when the Spanish power was weakened, and French trappers +came into the country under the auspices of the great fur companies, +they adopted a more concise name; they called the river "Le Purgatoire." +Then came the Great American Bull-Whacker. Utterly unable to twist +his tongue into any such Frenchified expression, he called the stream +with its sad story "Picketwire," and by that name it is known to all +frontiersmen, trappers, and the settlers along its banks. + +[59] The ranch is now in charge of Mr. Harry Whigham, an English +gentleman, who keeps up the old hospitality of the famous place. + +[60] "River of Souls." The stream is also called Le Purgatoire, +corrupted by the Americans into Picketwire. + +[61] Pawnee Rock is no longer conspicuous. Its material has been +torn away by both the railroad and the settlers in the vicinity, +to build foundations for water-tanks, in the one instance, and for +the construction of their houses, barns, and sheds, in the other. +Nothing remains of the once famous landmark; its site is occupied +as a cattle corral by the owner of the claim in which it is included. + +[62] The crossing of the Old Santa Fe Trail at Pawnee Fork is now +within the corporate limits of the pretty little town of Larned, +the county-seat of Pawnee County. The tourist from his car-window +may look right down upon one of the worst places for Indians that +there was in those days of the commerce of the prairies, as the road +crosses the stream at the exact spot where the Trail crossed it. + +[63] This was a favourite expression of his whenever he referred +to any trouble with the Indians. + +[64] Indians will risk the lives of a dozen of their best warriors +to prevent the body of any one of their number from falling into +the white man's possession. The reason for this is the belief, +which prevails among all tribes, that if a warrior loses his scalp +he forfeits his hope of ever reaching the happy hunting-ground. + +[65] It was in this fight that the infamous Charles Bent received +his death-wound. + +[66] The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad track runs very +close to the mound, and there is a station named for the great mesa. + +[67] The venerable Colonel A. S. Johnson, of Topeka, Kansas, +the first white child born on the great State's soil, who related +to me this adventure of Hatcher's, knew him well. He says that he +was a small man, full of muscle, and as fearless as can be conceived. + +[68] The place where they turned is about a hundred yards east of +the Court House Square, in the present town of Great Bend; it may +be seen from the cars. + +[69] See Sheridan's _Memoirs_, Custer's _Life on the Plains_, and +Buffalo Bill's book, in which all the stirring events of that +campaign--nearly every fight of which was north or far south of the +Santa Fe Trail--are graphically told. + +[70] A grandson of Alexander Hamilton; killed at the battle of the +Washita, in the charge on Black Kettle's camp under Custer. + +[71] This ends Custer's narrative. The following fight, which +occurred a few days afterward, at the mouth of Mulberry Creek, +twelve miles below Fort Dodge, and within a stone's throw of the +Old Trail, was related to me personally by Colonel Keogh, who was +killed at the Rosebud, in Custer's disastrous battle with Sitting Bull. +We were both attached to General Sully's staff. + +[72] It was in this fight that Colonel Keogh's celebrated horse +Comanche received his first wound. It will be remembered that +Comanche and a Crow Indian were the only survivors of that unequal +contest in the valley of the Big Horn, commonly called the battle +of the Rosebud, where Custer and his command was massacred. + +[73] Now Kendall, a little village in Hamilton County, Kansas. + +[74] Raton is the name given by the early Spaniards to this range, +meaning both mouse and squirrel. It had its origin either in the +fact that one of its several peaks bore a fanciful resemblance to +a squirrel, or because of the immense numbers of that little rodent +always to be found in its pine forests. + +[75] In the beautiful language of the country's early conquerors, +"Las Cumbres Espanolas," or "Las dos Hermanas" (The Two Sisters), +and in the Ute tongue, "Wahtoya" (The Twins). + +[76] The house was destroyed by fire two or three years ago. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + +This file should be named 7osft10.txt or 7osft10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 7osft11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 7osft10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL + +Author: COLONEL HENRY INMAN + +Release Date: April, 2005 [EBook #7984] +[This file was first posted on June 9, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + + + + +Etext Edition edited by MICHAEL S. OVERTON + + + +THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL + +The Story of a Great Highway + +By COLONEL HENRY INMAN + +Late Assistant Quartermaster, United States Army + + +With a Preface by W. F. "BUFFALO BILL" CODY + + + + + + + +PREFACE. + + + +As we look into the open fire for our fancies, so we are apt to +study the dim past for the wonderful and sublime, forgetful of the +fact that the present is a constant romance, and that the happenings +of to-day which we count of little importance are sure to startle +somebody in the future, and engage the pen of the historian, +philosopher, and poet. + +Accustomed as we are to think of the vast steppes of Russia and +Siberia as alike strange and boundless, and to deal with the unkown +interior of Africa as an impenetrable mystery, we lose sight of a +locality in our own country that once surpassed all these in +virgin grandeur, in majestic solitude, and in all the attributes +of a tremendous wilderness. + +The story of the Old Santa Fe Trail, so truthfully recalled by +Colonel Henry Inman, ex-officer of the old Regular Army, in these pages, +is a most thrilling one. The vast area through which the famous +highway ran is still imperfectly known to most people as "The West"; +a designation once appropriate, but hardly applicable now; for in +these days of easy communication the real trail region is not +so far removed from New York as Buffalo was seventy years ago. + +At the commencement of the "commerce of the prairies," in the early +portion of the century, the Old Trail was the arena of almost constant +sanguinary struggles between the wily nomads of the desert and the +hardy white pioneers, whose eventful lives made the civilization +of the vast interior region of our continent possible. Their daring +compelled its development, which has resulted in the genesis of +great states and large cities. Their hardships gave birth to the +American homestead; their determined will was the factor of possible +achievements, the most remarkable and important of modern times. + +When the famous highway was established across the great plains +as a line of communication to the shores of the blue Pacific, +the only method of travel was by the slow freight caravan drawn by +patient oxen, or the lumbering stage coach with its complement of +four or six mules. There was ever to be feared an attack by those +devils of the desert, the Cheyennes, Comanches, and Kiowas. +Along its whole route the remains of men, animals, and the wrecks of +camps and wagons, told a story of suffering, robbery, and outrage +more impressive than any language. Now the tourist or business man +makes the journey in palace cars, and there is nothing to remind him +of the danger or desolation of Border days; on every hand are the +evidences of a powerful and advanced civilization. + +It is fortunate that one is left to tell some of its story who was +a living actor and had personal knowledge of many of the thrilling +scenes that were enacted along the line of the great route. +He was familiar with all the famous men, both white and savage, +whose lives have made the story of the Trail, his own sojourn on +the plains and in the Rocky Mountains extending over a period of +nearly forty years. + +The Old Trail has more than common interest for me, and I gladly +record here my indorsement of the faithful record, compiled by a +brave soldier, old comrade, and friend. + +W. F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill." + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + +INTRODUCTION. +The First Europeans who traversed the Great Highway--Alvar Nunez +Cabeca de Vaca--Hernando de Soto, and Francisco Vasquez de Coronado-- +Spanish Expedition from Santa Fe eastwardly--Escape of the Sole Survivors. + +CHAPTER I. +UNDER THE SPANIARDS. +Quaint Descriptions of Old Santa Fe--The Famous Adobe Palace-- +Santa Fe the Oldest Town in the United States--First Settlement-- +Onate's Conquest--Revolt of the Pueblo Indians--Under Pueblo Rule +--Cruelties of the Victors--The Santa Fe of To-day--Arrival of +a Caravan--The Railroad reaches the Town--Amusements--A Fandango. + +CHAPTER II. +LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. +The Beginning of the Santa Fe Trade--La Lande and Pursley, +the First Americans to cross the Plains--Pursley's Patriotism-- +Captain Ezekiel Williams--A Hungry Bear--A Midnight Alarm. + +CHAPTER III. +EARLY TRADERS. +Captain Becknell's Expedition--Sufferings from Thirst--Auguste +Chouteau--Imprisonment of McKnight and Chambers--The Caches-- +Stampeding Mules--First Military Escort across the Plains-- +Captain Zebulon Pike--Sublette and Smith--Murder of McNess-- +Indians not the Aggressors. + +CHAPTER IV. +TRAINS AND PACKERS. +The Atajo or Pack-train of Mules--Mexican Nomenclature of +Paraphernalia--Manner of Packing--The "Bell-mare"--Toughness of +Mules among Precipices--The Caravan of Wagons--Largest Wagon-train +ever on the Plains--Stampedes--Duties of Packers en route--Order of +Travelling with Pack-train--Chris. Gilson, the Famous Packer. + +CHAPTER V. +FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. +Narrative of Bryant's Party of Santa Fe Traders--The First Wagon +Expedition across the Plains--A Thrilling Story of Hardship and +Physical Suffering--Terrible Fight with the Comanches--Abandonment +of the Wagons--On Foot over the Trail--Burial of their Specie +on an Island in the Arkansas--Narrative of William Y. Hitt, +one of the Party--His Encounter with a Comanche--The First Escort +of United States Troops to the Annual Caravan of Santa Fe Traders, +in 1829--Major Bennett Riley's Official Report to the War Department +--Journal of Captain Cooke. + +CHAPTER VI. +A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. +The Expedition of Texans to the Old Santa Fe Trail for the Purpose +of robbing Mexican Traders--Innocent Citizens of the United States +suspected, arrested, and carried to the Capital of New Mexico-- +Colonel Snively's Force--Warfield's Sacking of the Village of Mora +--Attack upon a Mexican Caravan--Kit Carson in the Fight-- +A Crime of over Sixty Years Ago--A Romance of the Tragedy. + +CHAPTER VII. +MEXICO DECLARES WAR. +Mexico declares War against the United States--Congress authorizes +the President to call for Fifty Thousand Volunteers--Organization of +the Army of the West--Phenomenon seen by Santa Fe Traders in the Sky +--First Death on the March of the Army across the Plains--Men in +a Starving Condition--Another Death--Burial near Pawnee Rock-- +Trouble at Pawnee Fork--Major Howard's Report. + +CHAPTER VIII. +THE VALLEY OF TAOS. +The Valley of Taos--First White Settler--Rebellion of the Mexicans +--A Woman discovers and informs Colonel Price of the Conspiracy-- +Assassination of Governor Bent--Horrible Butcheries by the Pueblos +and Mexicans--Turley's Ranch--Murder of Harwood and Markhead-- +Anecdote of Sir William Drummond Stewart--Fight at the Mills-- +Battle of the Pueblo of Taos--Trial of the Insurrectionists-- +Baptiste, the Juror--Execution of the Rebels. + +CHAPTER IX. +FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. +Independence--Opening of Navigation on the Mississippi--Effect of +Water Transportation upon the Trade--Establishment of Trading-forts-- +Market for Cattle and Mules--Wages paid Teamsters on the Trail-- +An Enterprising Coloured Man--Increase of the Trade at the Close of +the Mexican War--Heavy Emigration to California--First Overland Mail +--How the Guards were armed--Passenger Coaches to Santa Fe-- +Stage-coaching Days. + +CHAPTER X. +CHARLES BENT. +The Tragedy in the Canyon of the Canadian--Dragoons follow the Trail +of the Savages--Kit Carson, Dick Wooton, and Tom Tobin the Scouts +of the Expedition--More than a Hundred of the Savages killed-- +Murder of Mrs. White--White Wolf--Lieutenant Bell's Singular Duel +with the Noted Savage--Old Wolf--Satank--Murder of Peacock-- +Satanta made Chief--Kicking Bird--His Tragic Death--Charles Bent, +the Half-breed Renegade--His Terrible Acts--His Death. + +CHAPTER XI. +LA GLORIETA. +Neglect of New Mexico by the United States Government--Intended +Conquest of the Province--Conspiracy of Southern Leaders-- +Surrender by General Twiggs to the Confederate Government of the +Military Posts and Munitions of War under his Command--Only One +Soldier out of Two Thousand deserts to the Enemy--Organization +of Volunteers for the Defence of Colorado and New Mexico-- +Battle of La Glorieta--Rout of the Rebels. + +CHAPTER XII. +THE BUFFALO. +The Ancient Range of the Buffalo--Number slaughtered in Thirteen Years +for their Robes alone--Buffalo Bones--Trains stopped by Vast Herds-- +Custom of Old Hunters when caught in a Blizzard--Anecdotes of +Buffalo Hunting--Kit Carson's Dilemma--Experience of Two of Fremont's +Hunters--Wounded Buffalo Bull--O'Neil's Laughable Experience-- +Organization of a Herd of Buffalo--Stampedes--Thrilling Escapes. + +CHAPTER XIII. +INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. +Big Timbers--Winter Camp of the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes-- +Savage Amusements--A Cheyenne Lodge--Indian Etiquette--Treatment +of Children--The Pipe of the North American Savage--Dog Feast-- +Marriage Ceremony. + +CHAPTER XIV. +TRAPPERS. +The Old Pueblo Fort--A Celebrated Rendezvous--Its Inhabitants-- +"Fontaine qui Bouille"--The Legend of its Origin--The Trappers +of the Old Santa Fe Trail and the Rocky Mountains--Beaver Trapping-- +Habits of the Beaver--Improvidence of the Old Trappers--Trading with +"Poor Lo"--The Strange Experience of a Veteran Trapper on the +Santa Fe Trail--Romantic Marriage of Baptiste Brown. + +CHAPTER XV. +UNCLE JOHN SMITH. +Uncle John Smith--A Famous Trapper, Guide, and Interpreter-- +His Marriage with a Cheyenne Squaw--An Autocrat among the People +of the Plains and Mountains--The Mexicans held him in Great Dread-- +His Wonderful Resemblance to President Andrew Johnson--Interpreter +and Guide on General Sheridan's Winter Expedition against the +Allied Plains Tribes--His Stories around the Camp-fire. + +CHAPTER XVI. +KIT CARSON. +Famous Men of the Old Santa Fe Trail--Kit Carson--Jim Bridger-- +James P. Beckwourth--Uncle Dick Wooton--Jim Baker--Lucien B. +Maxwell--Old Bill Williams--Tom Tobin--James Hobbs. + +CHAPTER XVII. +UNCLE DICK WOOTON. +Uncle Dick Wooton--Lucien B. Maxwell--Old Bill Williams--Tom Tobin-- +James Hobbs--William F. Cody (Buffalo Bill). + +CHAPTER XVIII. +MAXWELL'S RANCH. +Maxwell's Ranch on the Old Santa Fe Trail--A Picturesque Region-- +Maxwell a Trapper and Hunter with the American Fur Company-- +Lifelong Comrade of Kit Carson--Sources of Maxwell's Wealth-- +Fond of Horse-racing--A Disastrous Fourth-of-July Celebration +--Anecdote of Kit Carson--Discovery of Gold on the Ranch-- +The Big Ditch--Issuing Beef to the Ute Indians--Camping out with +Maxwell and Carson--A Story of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + +CHAPTER XIX. +BENT'S FORTS. +The Bents' Several Forts--Famous Trading-posts--Rendezvous of the +Rocky Mountain Trappers--Castle William and Incidents connected +with the Noted Place--Bartering with the Indians--Annual Feast +of Arapahoes and Cheyennes--Old Wolf's First Visit to Bent's Fort-- +The Surprise of the Savages--Stories told by Celebrated Frontiersmen +around the Camp-fire. + +CHAPTER XX. +PAWNEE ROCK. +Pawnee Rock--A Debatable Region of the Indian Tribes--The most +Dangerous Point on the Central Plains in the Days of the Early +Santa Fe Trade--Received its Name in a Baptism of Blood-- +Battle-ground of the Pawnees and Cheyennes--Old Graves on the +Summit of the Rock--Kit Carson's First Fight at the Rock with +the Pawnees--Kills his Mule by Mistake--Colonel St. Vrain's +Brilliant Charge--Defeat of the Savages--The Trappers' Terrible +Battle with the Pawnees--The Massacre at Cow Creek. + +CHAPTER XXI. +FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. +Wagon Mound--John L. Hatcher's Thrilling Adventure with Old Wolf, +the War-chief of the Comanches--Incidents on the Trail--A Boy +Bugler's Happy Escape from the Savages at Fort Union--A Drunken +Stage-driver--How an Officer of the Quartermaster's Department +at Washington succeeded in starting the Military Freight Caravans +a Month Earlier than the Usual Time--How John Chisholm fooled +the Stage-robbers--The Story of Half a Plug of Tobacco. + +CHAPTER XXII. +A DESPERATE RIDE. +Solitary Graves along the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail--The Walnut +Crossing--Fort Zarah--The Graves on Hon. D. Heizer's Ranch on +the Walnut--Troops stationed at the Crossing of the Walnut-- +A Terrible Five Miles--The Cavalry Recruit's Last Ride. + +CHAPTER XXIII. +HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. +General Hancock's Expedition against the Plains Indians--Terrible +Snow-storm at Fort Larned--Meeting with the Chiefs of the +Dog-Soldiers--Bull Bear's Diplomacy--Meeting of the United States +Troops and the Savages in Line of Battle--Custer's Night Experience-- +The Surgeon and Dog Stew--Destruction of the Village by Fire-- +General Sully's Fight with the Kiowas, Comanches, and Arapahoes-- +Finding the Skeletons of the Unfortunate Men--The Savages' Report +of the Affair. + +CHAPTER XXIV. +INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. +Scenery on the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail--The Great Plains-- +The Arkansas Valley--Over the Rocky Mountains into New Mexico-- +The Raton Range--The Spanish Peaks--Simpson's Rest--Fisher's Peak +--Raton Peak--Snowy Range--Pike's Peak--Raton Creek--The Invasion +of the Railroad--The Old Santa Fe Trail a Thing of the Past. + +FOOTNOTES. + +PUBLICATION INFORMATION. + + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + + +For more than three centuries, a period extending from 1541 to 1851, +historians believed, and so announced to the literary world, +that Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, the celebrated Spanish explorer, +in his search for the Seven Cities of Cibola and the Kingdom of Quivira, +was the first European to travel over the intra-continent region +of North America. In the last year above referred to, however, +Buckingham Smith, of Florida, an eminent Spanish scholar, and secretary +of the American Legation at Madrid, discovered among the archives +of State the _Narrative of Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_, where for +nearly three hundred years it had lain, musty and begrimed with the +dust of ages, an unread and forgotten story of suffering that has no +parallel in fiction. The distinguished antiquarian unearthed the +valuable manuscript from its grave of oblivion, translated it into +English, and gave it to the world of letters; conferring honour upon +whom honour was due, and tearing the laurels from such grand voyageurs +and discoverers as De Soto, La Salle, and Coronado, upon whose heads +history had erroneously placed them, through no fault, or arrogance, +however, of their own. + +Cabeca, beyond any question, travelled the Old Santa Fe Trail for +many miles, crossed it where it intersects the Arkansas River, +a little east of Fort William or Bent's Fort, and went thence on +into New Mexico, following the famous highway as far, at least, +as Las Vegas. Cabeca's march antedated that of Coronado by five years. +To this intrepid Spanish voyageur we are indebted for the first +description of the American bison, or buffalo as the animal is +erroneously called. While not so quaint in its language as that +of Coronado's historian, a lustrum later, the statement cannot be +perverted into any other reference than to the great shaggy monsters +of the plains:-- + + Cattle come as far as this. I have seen them three times + and eaten of their meat. I think they are about the size + of those of Spain. They have small horns like the cows + of Morocco, and the hair very long and flocky, like that + of the merino; some are light brown, others black. To my + judgment the flesh is finer and fatter than that of this + country. The Indians make blankets of the hides of those + not full grown. They range over a district of more than + four hundred leagues, and in the whole extent of plain over + which they run the people that inhabit near there descend + and live on them and scatter a vast many skins throughout + the country. + +It will be remembered by the student of the early history of +our country, that when Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca, a follower of the +unfortunate Panphilo de Narvaez, and who had been long thought dead, +landed in Spain, he gave such glowing accounts of Florida[1] and the +neighbouring regions that the whole kingdom was in a ferment, +and many a heart panted to emigrate to a land where the fruits +were perennial, and where it was thought flowed the fabled +fountain of youth. + +Three expeditions to that country had already been tried: +one undertaken in 1512, by Juan Ponce de Leon, formerly a companion +of Columbus; another in 1520, by Vasquez de Allyon; and another by +Panphilo de Narvaez. All of these had signally failed, the bones +of most of the leaders and their followers having been left to bleach +upon the soil they had come to conquer. + +The unfortunate issue of the former expeditions did not operate as +a check upon the aspiring mind of De Soto, but made him the more +anxious to spring as an actor into the arena which had been the scene +of the discomfiture and death of the hardy chivalry of the kingdom. +He sought an audience of the emperor, and the latter, after hearing +De Soto's proposition that, "he could conquer the country known as +Florida at his own expense," conferred upon him the title of +"Governor of Cuba and Florida." + +On the 6th of April, 1538, De Soto sailed from Spain with an armament +of ten vessels and a splendidly equipped army of nine hundred chosen men, +amidst the roar of cannons and the inspiring strains of martial music. + +It is not within the province of this work to follow De Soto through +all his terrible trials on the North American continent; the wonderful +story may be found in every well-organized library. It is recorded, +however, that some time during the year 1542, his decimated army, +then under the command of Luis de Moscoso, De Soto having died +the previous May, was camped on the Arkansas River, far upward towards +what is now Kansas. It was this command, too, of the unfortunate +but cruel De Soto, that saw the Rocky Mountains from the east. +The chronicler of the disastrous journey towards the mountains says: +"The entire route became a trail of fire and blood," as they +had many a desperate struggle with the savages of the plains, +who "were of gigantic stucture, and fought with heavy strong clubs, +with the desperation of demons. Such was their tremendous strength, +that one of these warriors was a match for a Spanish soldier, +though mounted on a horse, armed with a sword and cased in armour!" + +Moscoso was searching for Coronado, and he was one of the most humane +of all the officers of De Soto's command, for he evidently bent +every energy to extricate his men from the dreadful environments +of their situation; despairing of reaching the Gulf by the Mississippi, +he struck westward, hoping, as Cabeca de Vaca had done, to arrive +in Mexico overland. + +A period of six months was consumed in Moscoso's march towards the +Rocky Mountains, but he failed to find Coronado, who at that time +was camped near where Wichita, Kansas, is located; according to his +historian, "at the junction of the St. Peter and St. Paul" (the Big +and Little Arkansas?). That point was the place of separation +between Coronado and a number of his followers; many returning +to Mexico, while the undaunted commander, with as many as he could +induce to accompany him, continued easterly, still in search of +the mythical Quivira. + +How far westward Moscoso travelled cannot be determined accurately, +but that his route extended up the valley of the Arkansas for more than +three hundred miles, into what is now Kansas, is proved by the statement +of his historian, who says: "They saw great chains of mountains and +forests to the west, which they understood were uninhabited." + +Another strong confirmatory fact is, that, in 1884, a group of mounds +was discovered in McPherson County, Kansas, which were thoroughly +explored by the professors of Bethany College, Lindsborg, who found, +among other interesting relics, a piece of chain-mail armour, +of hard steel; undoubtedly part of the equipment of a Spanish soldier +either of the command of Cabeca de Vaca, De Soto, or of Coronado. +The probability is, that it was worn by one of De Soto's unfortunate men, +as neither Panphilo de Narvaez, De Vaca, or Coronado experienced any +difficulty with the savages of the great plains, because those leaders +were humane and treated the Indians kindly, in contradistinction to +De Soto, who was the most inhuman of all the early Spanish explorers. +He was of the same school as Pizarro and Cortez; possessing their +daring valour, their contempt of danger, and their tenacity of purpose, +as well as their cruelty and avarice. De Soto made treaties with +the Indians which he constantly violated, and murdered the misguided +creatures without mercy. During the retreat of Moscoso's weakened +command down the Arkansas River, the Hot Springs of Arkansas +were discovered. His historian writes: + + And when they saw the foaming fountain, they thought + it was the long-searched-for "Fountain of Youth," reported + by fame to exist somewhere in the country, but ten of the + soldiers dying from excessive drinking, they were soon + convinced of their error. + +After these intrepid explorers the restless Coronado appears on +the Old Trail. In the third volume of Hakluyt's _Voyages_, published +in London, 1600, Coronado's historian thus describes the great plains +of Kansas and Colorado, the bison, and a tornado:-- + + From Cicuye they went to Quivira, which after their account + is almost three hundred leagues distant, through mighty + plains, and sandy heaths so smooth and wearisome, and bare + of wood that they made heaps of ox-dung, for want of stones + and trees, that they might not lose themselves at their + return: for three horses were lost on that plain, and one + Spaniard which went from his company on hunting. . . . + All that way of plains are as full of crooked-back oxen as + the mountain Serrena in Spain is of sheep, but there is + no such people as keep those cattle. . . . They were a + great succour for the hunger and the want of bread, which + our party stood in need of. . . . + + One day it rained in that plain a great shower of hail, + as big as oranges, which caused many tears, weakness + and bowes. + + These oxen are of the bigness and colour of our bulls, + but their bones are not so great. They have a great bunch + upon their fore-shoulder, and more hair on their fore part + than on their hinder part, and it is like wool. They have + as it were an horse-mane upon their backbone, and much hair + and very long from their knees downward. They have great + tufts of hair hanging down on their foreheads, and it + seemeth they have beards because of the great store of hair + hanging down at their chins and throats. The males have + very long tails, and a great knob or flock at the end, + so that in some respects they resemble the lion, and in some + other the camel. They push with their horns, they run, + they overtake and kill an horse when they are in their + rage and anger. Finally it is a foul and fierce beast of + countenance and form of body. The horses fled from them, + either because of their deformed shape, or else because + they had never before seen them. + +"The number," continues the historian, "was incredible." When the +soldiers, in their excitement for the chase, began to kill them, +they rushed together in such masses that hundreds were literally +crushed to death. At one place there was a great ravine; they jumped +into it in their efforts to escape from the hunters, and so terrible +was the slaughter as they tumbled over the precipice that the +depression was completely filled up, their carcasses forming a bridge, +over which the remainder passed with ease. + +The next recorded expedition across the plains via the Old Trail +was also by the Spaniards from Santa Fe, eastwardly, in the year 1716, +"for the purpose of establishing a Military Post in the Upper +Mississippi Valley as a barrier to the further encroachments of +the French in that direction." An account of this expedition is found +in _Memoires Historiques sur La Louisiane_, published in Paris in 1858, +but never translated in its entirety. The author, Lieutenant Dumont +of the French army, was one of a party ascending the Arkansas River +in search of a supposed mass of emeralds. The narrative relates: + There was more than half a league to traverse to gain the + other bank of the river, and our people were no sooner + arrived than they found there a party of Missouris, sent to + M. de la Harpe by M. de Bienville, then commandant general + at Louisiana, to deliver orders to the former. Consequently + they gave the signal order, and our other two canoes having + crossed the river, the savages gave to our commandant the + letters of M. de Bienville, in which he informed him that + the Spaniards had sent out a detachment from New Mexico + to go to the Missouris and to establish a post in that + country. . . . The success of this expedition was very + calamitous to the Spaniards. Their caravan was composed of + fifteen hundred people, men, women and soldiers, having + with them a Jacobin for a chaplain, and bringing also a + great number of horses and cattle, according to the custom + of that nation to forget nothing that might be necessary for + a settlement. Their design was to destroy the Missouris, + and to seize upon their country, and with this intention + they had resolved to go first to the Osages, a neighbouring + nation, enemies of the Missouris, to form an alliance with + them, and to engage them in their behalf for the execution + of their plan. Perhaps the map which guided them was not + correct, or they had not exactly followed it, for it chanced + that instead of going to the Osages whom they sought, they + fell, without knowing it, into a village of the Missouris, + where the Spanish commander, presenting himself to the great + chief and offering him the calumet, made him understand + through an interpreter, believing himself to be speaking + to the Osage chief, that they were enemies of the Missouris, + that they had come to destroy them, to make their women + and children slaves and to take possession of their country. + He begged the chief to be willing to form an alliance + with them, against a nation whom the Osages regarded as + their enemy, and to second them in this enterprise, promising + to recompense them liberally for the service rendered, + and always to be their friend in the future. Upon this + discourse the Missouri chief understood perfectly well + the mistake. He dissimulated and thanked the Spaniard for + the confidence he had in his nation; he consented to form + an alliance with them against the Missouris, and to join + them with all his forces to destroy them; but he represented + that his people were not armed, and that they dared not + expose themselves without arms in such an enterprise. + Deceived by so favourable a reception, the Spaniards fell + into the trap laid for them. They received with due + ceremony, in the little camp they had formed on their + arrival, the calumet which the great chief of the Missouris + presented to the Spanish commander. The alliance for war + was sworn to by both parties; they agreed upon a day for + the execution of the plan which they meditated, and the + Spaniards furnished the savages with all the munitions which + they thought were needed. After the ceremony both parties + gave themselves up equally to joy and good cheer. At the + end of three days two thousand savages were armed and in + the midst of dances and amusements; each party thought + nothing but the execution of its design. It was the evening + before their departure upon their concerted expedition, + and the Spaniards had retired to their camps as usual, + when the great chief of the Missouris, having assembled + his warriors, declared to them his intentions and exhorted + them to deal treacherously with these strangers who were come + to their home only with the design of destroying them. + At daybreak the savages divided into several bands, fell on + the Spaniards, who expected nothing of the kind, and in + less than a quarter of an hour all the caravan were murdered. + No one escaped from the massacre except the chaplain, whom + the barbarians saved because of his dress; at the same time + they took possession of all the merchandise and other + effects which they found in their camp. The Spaniards had + brought with them, as I have said, a certain number of horses, + and as the savages were ignorant of the use of these animals, + they took pleasure in making the Jacobin whom they had saved, + and who had become their slave, mount them. The priest gave + them this amusement almost every day for the five or six + months that he remained with them in their village, without + any of them daring to imitate him. Tired at last of his + slavery, and regarding the lack of daring in these barbarians + as a means of Providence to regain his liberty, he made + secretly all the provisions possible for him to make, + and which he believed necessary to his plan. At last, + having chosen the best horse and having mounted him, + after performing several of his exploits before the savages, + and while they were all occupied with his manoeuvres, + he spurred up and disappeared from their sight, taking the + road to Mexico, where doubtless he arrived. + +Charlevoix,[2] who travelled from Quebec to New Orleans in the +year 1721, says in one of his letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres, +dated at Kaskaskia, July 21, 1721: + + About two years ago some Spaniards, coming, as they say, + from New Mexico, and intending to get into the country of + the Illinois and drive the French from thence, whom they + saw with extreme jealousy approach so near the Missouri, + came down the river and attacked two villages of the + Octoyas,[3] who are the allies of the Ayouez,[4] and from + whom it is said also that they are derived. As the savages + had no firearms and were surprised, the Spaniards made an + easy conquest and killed a great many of them. A third + village, which was not far off from the other two, being + informed of what had passed, and not doubting but these + conquerors would attack them, laid an ambush into which + the Spaniards heedlessly fell. Others say that the savages, + having heard that the enemy were almost all drunk and + fast asleep, fell upon them in the night. However it was, + it is certain the greater part of them were killed. + There were in the party two almoners; one of them was + killed directly and the other got away to the Missouris, + who took him prisoner, but he escaped them very dexterously. + He had a very fine horse and the Missouris took pleasure + in seeing him ride it, which he did very skilfully. He took + advantage of their curiosity to get out of their hands. + + One day as he was prancing and exercising his horse before + them, he got a little distance from them insensibly; then + suddenly clapping spurs to his horse he was soon out of sight. + +The Missouri Indians once occupied all the territory near the junction +of the Kaw and Missouri rivers, but they were constantly decimated +by the continual depredations of their warlike and feudal enemies, +the Pawnees and Sioux, and at last fell a prey to that dreadful +scourge, the small-pox, which swept them off by thousands. +The remnant of the once powerful tribe then found shelter and a home +with the Otoes, finally becoming merged in that tribe. + + + + +CHAPTER I. +UNDER THE SPANIARDS. + + + +The Santa Fe of the purely Mexican occupation, long before the days +of New Mexico's acquisition by the United States, and the Santa Fe of +to-day are so widely in contrast that it is difficult to find language +in which to convey to the reader the story of the phenomenal change. +To those who are acquainted with the charming place as it is now, +with its refined and cultured society, I cannot do better, perhaps, +in attempting to show what it was under the old regime, than to quote +what some traveller in the early 30's wrote for a New York leading +newspaper, in regard to it. As far as my own observation of the +place is concerned, when I first visited it a great many years ago, +the writer of the communication whose views I now present was not +incorrect in his judgment. He said:-- + + To dignify such a collection of mud hovels with the name + of "City," would be a keen irony; not greater, however, + than is the name with which its Padres have baptized it. + To call a place with its moral character, a very Sodom + in iniquity, "Holy Faith," is scarcely a venial sin; + it deserves Purgatory at least. Its health is the best + in the country, which is the first, second and third + recommendation of New Mexico by its greatest admirers. + It is a small town of about two thousand inhabitants, + crowded up against the mountains, at the end of a little + valley through which runs a mountain stream of the same + name tributary to the Rio Grande. It has a public square + in the centre, a Palace and an Alameda; as all Spanish + Roman Catholic towns have. It is true its Plaza, or + Public Square, is unfenced and uncared for, without trees + or grass. The Palace is nothing more than the biggest + mud-house in the town, and the churches, too, are unsightly + piles of the same material, and the Alameda[5] is on top of + a sand hill. Yet they have in Santa Fe all the parts and + parcels of a regal city and a Bishopric. The Bishop has a + palace also; the only two-storied shingle-roofed house in + the place. There is one public house set apart for eating, + drinking and gambling; for be it known that gambling is here + authorized by law. Hence it is as respectable to keep a + gambling house, as it is to sell rum in New Jersey; it is + a lawful business, and being lawful, and consequently + respectable and a man's right, why should not men gamble? + And gamble they do. The Generals and the Colonels and + the Majors and the Captains gamble. The judges and the + lawyers and the doctors and the priests gamble; and there + are gentlemen gamblers by profession! You will see squads + of poor peons daily, men, women and boys, sitting on the + ground around a deck of cards in the Public Square, gambling + for the smallest stakes. + + The stores of the town generally front on the Public Square. + Of these there are a dozen, more or less, of respectable + size, and most of them are kept by others than Mexicans. + The business of the place is considerable, many of the + merchants here being wholesale dealers for the vast + territory tributary. It is supposed that about $750,000 + worth of goods will be brought to this place this year, and + there may be $250,000 worth imported directly from the + United States. + + In the money market there is nothing less than a five-cent + piece. You cannot purchase anything for less than five cents. + In trade they reckon ten cents the eighth of a dollar. + If you purchase nominally a dollar's worth of an article, + you can pay for it in eight ten-cent pieces; and if you + give a dollar, you receive no change. In changing a dollar + for you, you would get but eight ten-cent pieces for it. + + Yet, although dirty and unkempt, and swarming with hungry + dogs, it has the charm of foreign flavour, and like + San Antonio retains some portion of the grace which long + lingered about it, if indeed it ever forsakes the spot + where Spain held rule for centuries, and the soft syllables + of the Spanish language are yet heard. + +Such was a description of the "drowsy old town" of Santa Fe, +sixty-five years ago. Fifteen years later Major W. H. Emory, of +the United States army, writes of it as follows:[6] + + The population of Santa Fe is from two to four thousand, + and the inhabitants are, it is said, the poorest people + of any town in the Province. The houses are mud bricks, + in the Spanish style, generally of one story, and built + on a square. The interior of the square is an open court, + and the principal rooms open into it. They are forbidding + in appearance from the outside, but nothing can exceed + the comfort and convenience of the interior. The thick + walls make them cool in summer and warm in winter. + + The better class of people are provided with excellent beds, + but the poorer class sleep on untanned skins. The women + here, as in many other parts of the world, appear to be + much before the men in refinements, intelligence, and + knowledge of the useful arts. The higher class dress like + the American women, except, instead of a bonnet, they wear + a scarf over their head, called a reboso. This they wear + asleep or awake, in the house or abroad. The dress of the + lower classes of women is a simple petticoat, with arms and + shoulders bare, except what may chance to be covered by + the reboso. + + The men who have means to do so dress after our fashion; + but by far the greater number, when they dress at all, + wear leather breeches, tight around the hips and open from + the knee down; shirt and blanket take the place of our + coat and vest. + + The city is dependent on the distant hills for wood, and + at all hours of the day may be seen jackasses passing laden + with wood, which is sold at two bits, twenty-five cents, + the load. These are the most diminutive animals, and + usually mounted from behind, after the fashion of leap-frog. + The jackass is the only animal that can be subsisted in + this barren neighbourhood without great expense; our horses + are all sent to a distance of twelve, fifteen, and thirty + miles for grass. + +I have interpolated these two somewhat similar descriptions of +Santa Fe written in that long ago when New Mexico was almost as +little known as the topography of the planet Mars, so that the +intelligent visitor of to-day may appreciate the wonderful changes +which American thrift, and that powerful civilizer, the locomotive, +have wrought in a very few years, yet it still, as one of the +foregoing writers has well said, "has the charm of foreign flavour, +and the soft syllables of the Spanish language are still heard." + +The most positive exception must be taken to the statement of the +first-quoted writer in relation to the Palace, of which he says +"It is nothing more than the biggest mud-house in the town." +Now this "Palacio del Gobernador," as the old building was called +by the Spanish, was erected at a very early day. It was the +long-established seat of power when Penalosa confined the chief +inquisitor within its walls in 1663, and when the Pueblo authorities +took possession of it as the citadel of their central authority, +in 1681. + +The old building cannot well be overlooked by the most careless +visitor to the quaint town; it is a long, low structure, taking up +the greater part of one side of the Plaza, round which runs a +colonnade supported by pillars of rough pine. In this once leaky +old Palace were kept, or rather neglected, the archives of the +Territory until the American residents, appreciating the importance +of preserving precious documents containing so much of interest +to the student of history and the antiquarian, enlisted themselves +enthusiastically in the good cause, and have rescued from oblivion +the annals of a relatively remote civilization, which, but for their +forethought, would have perished from the face of the earth as +completely as have the written records of that wonderful region in +Central America, whose gigantic ruins alone remain to tell us of +what was a highly cultured order of architecture in past ages, +and of a people whose intelligence was comparable to the style +of the dwellings in which they lived. + +The old adobe Palace is in itself a volume whose pages are filled +with pathos and stirring events. It has been the scene and witness +of incidents the recital of which would to us to-day seem incredible. +An old friend, once governor of New Mexico and now dead, thus +graphically spoke of the venerable building:[7] + + In it lived and ruled the Spanish captain general, so remote + and inaccessible from the viceroyalty at Mexico that he was + in effect a king, nominally accountable to the viceroy, + but practically beyond his reach and control and wholly + irresponsible to the people. Equally independent for the + same reason were the Mexican governors. Here met all the + provincial, territorial, departmental, and other legislative + bodies that have ever assembled at the capital of New Mexico. + Here have been planned all the Indian wars and measures + for defence against foreign invasion, including, as the + most noteworthy, the Navajo war of 1823, the Texan invasion + of 1842, the American of 1846, and the Confederate of 1862. + Within its walls was imprisoned, in 1809, the American + explorer Zebulon M. Pike, and innumerable state prisoners + before and since; and many a sentence of death has been + pronounced therein and the accused forthwith led away and + shot at the dictum of the man at the Palace. It has been + from time immemorial the government house with all its + branches annexed. It was such on the Fourth of July, 1776, + when the American Congress at Independence Hall in + Philadelphia proclaimed liberty throughout all the land, + not then, but now embracing it. Indeed, this old edifice + has a history. And as the history of Santa Fe is the + history of New Mexico, so is the history of the Palace + the history of Santa Fe. + +The Palace was the only building having glazed windows. At one end +was the government printing office, and at the other, the guard-house +and prison. Fearful stories were connected with the prison. +Edwards[8] says that he found, on examining the walls of the +small rooms, locks of human hair stuffed into holes, with rude +crosses drawn over them. + +Fronting the Palace, on the south side of the Plaza, stood the +remains of the Capilla de los Soldados, or Military Chapel. +The real name of the church was "Our Lady of Light." It was said +to be the richest church in the Province, but had not been in use +for a number of years, and the roof had fallen in, allowing the +elements to complete the work of destruction. On each side of the +altar was the remains of fine carving, and a weather-beaten picture +above gave evidence of having been a beautiful painting. Over the +door was a large oblong slab of freestone, elaborately carved, +representing "Our Lady of Light" rescuing a human being from the +jaws of Satan. A large tablet, beautifully executed in relief, +stood behind the altar, representing various saints, with an +inscription stating that it was erected by Governor Francisco Antonio +del Valle and his wife in 1761. + +Church services were held in the Parroquia, or Parish church, +now the Cathedral, which had two towers or steeples, in which hung +four bells. The music was furnished by a violin and a triangle. +The wall back of the altar was covered with innumerable mirrors, +paintings, and bright-coloured tapestry. + +The exact date of the first settlement of Santa Fe is uncertain. +One authority says: + + It was a primeval stronghold before the Spanish Conquest, + and a town of some importance to the white race when + Pennsylvania was a wilderness and the first Dutch governor + of New York was slowly drilling the Knickerbocker ancestry + in their difficult evolutions around the town-pump. + +It is claimed, on what is deemed very authentic data by some, that +Santa Fe is really the oldest settled town in the United States. +St. Augustine, Florida, was established in 1565 and was unquestionably +conceded the honour of antiquity until the acquisition of New Mexico +by the Guadalupe-Hidalgo treaty. Then, of course, Santa Fe steps +into the arena and carries off the laurels. This claim of precedence +for Santa Fe is based upon the statement (whether historically correct +or not is a question) that when the Spaniards first entered the region +from the southern portion of Mexico, about 1542, they found a very +large Pueblo town on the present site of Santa Fe, and that its prior +existence extended far back into the vanished centuries. This is +contradicted by other historians, who contend that the claim of +Santa Fe to be the oldest town in the United States rests entirely +on imaginary annals of an Indian Pueblo before the Spanish Conquest, +and that there are but slight indications that the town was built +on the site of one.[9] + +The reader may further satisfy himself on these mooted points by +consulting the mass of historical literature on New Mexico, +and the records of its primitive times are not surpassed in interest +by those of any other part of the continent. It was there the +Europeans first made great conquests, and some years prior to the +landing of the Pilgrims, a history of New Mexico, being the journal +of Geronimo de Zarate Salmaron, was published by the Church in the +City of Mexico, early in 1600. Salmaron was a Franciscan monk; +a most zealous and indefatigable worker. During his eight years' +residence at Jemez, near Santa Fe, he claims to have baptized over +eight thousand Indians, converts to the Catholic faith. His journal +gives a description of the country, its mines, etc., and was made +public in order that other monks reading it might emulate his +pious example. + +Between 1605 and 1616 was founded the Villa of Santa Fe, or +San Francisco de la Santa Fe. "Villa," or village, was an honorary +title, always authorized and proclaimed by the king. Bancroft says +that it was first officially mentioned on the 3d of January, 1617. + +The first immigration to New Mexico was under Don Juan de Onate +about 1597, and in a year afterward, according to some authorities, +Santa Fe was settled. The place, as claimed by some historians, +was then named El Teguayo, a Spanish adaptation of the word "Tegua," +the name of the Pueblo nation, which was quite numerous, and occupied +Santa Fe and the contiguous country. It very soon, from its central +position and charming climate, became the leading Spanish town, +and the capital of the Province. The Spaniards, who came at first +into the country as friends, and were apparently eager to obtain +the good-will of the intelligent natives, shortly began to claim +superiority, and to insist on the performance of services which were +originally mere evidences of hospitality and kindness. Little by +little they assumed greater power and control over the Indians, +until in the course of years they had subjected a large portion of +them to servitude little differing from actual slavery. + +The impolitic zeal of the monks gradually invoked the spirit of +hatred and resulted in a rebellion that drove the Spaniards, in 1680, +from the country. The large number of priests who were left in the +midst of the natives met with horrible fates: + + Not one escaped martyrdom. At Zuni, three Franciscans + had been stationed, and when the news of the Spanish retreat + reached the town, the people dragged them from their cells, + stripped and stoned them, and afterwards compelled the + servant of one to finish the work by shooting them. Having + thus whetted their appetite for cruelty and vengeance, + the Indians started to carry the news of their independence + to Moqui, and signalized their arrival by the barbarous + murder of the two missionaries who were living there. + Their bodies were left unburied, as a prey for the wild + beasts. At Jemez they indulged in every refinement of + cruelty. The old priest, Jesus Morador, was seized in + his bed at night, stripped naked and mounted on a hog, + and thus paraded through the streets, while the crowd + shouted and yelled around. Not satisfied with this, + they then forced him to carry them as a beast would, + crawling on his hands and feet, until, from repeated beating + and the cruel tortures of sharp spurs, he fell dead in + their midst. A similar chapter of horrors was enacted + at Acoma, where three priests were stripped, tied together + with hair rope, and so driven through the streets, and + finally stoned to death. Not a Christian remained free + within the limits of New Mexico, and those who had been + dominant a few months before were now wretched and + half-starved fugitives, huddled together in the rude huts + of San Lorenzo. + + As soon as the Spaniards had retreated from the country, + the Pueblo Indians gave themselves up for a time to + rejoicing, and to the destruction of everything which could + remind them of the Europeans, their religion, and their + domination. The army which had besieged Santa Fe quickly + entered that city, took possession of the Palace as the + seat of government, and commenced the work of demolition. + The churches and the monastery of the Franciscans were + burned with all their contents, amid the almost frantic + acclamations of the natives. The gorgeous vestments of + the priests had been dragged out before the conflagration, + and now were worn in derision by Indians, who rode through + the streets at full speed, shouting for joy. The official + documents and books in the Palace were brought forth, + and made fuel for a bonfire in the centre of the Plaza; + and here also they danced the cachina, with all the + accompanying religious ceremonies of the olden time. + Everything imaginable was done to show their detestation + of the Christian faith and their determination to utterly + eradicate even its memory. Those who had been baptized + were washed with amole in the Rio Chiquito, in order to be + cleansed from the infection of Christianity. All baptismal + names were discarded, marriages celebrated by Christian + priests were annulled, the very mention of the names Jesus + and Mary was made an offence, and estuffas were constructed + to take the place of ruined churches.[10] + +For twelve years, although many abortive attempts were made to +recapture the country, the Pueblos were left in possession. On the +16th of October, 1693, the victorious Spaniards at last entered +Santa Fe, bearing the same banner which had been carried by Onate when +he entered the city just a century before. The conqueror this time +was Don Diego de Vargas Zapata Lujan, whom the viceroy of New Spain +had appointed governor in the spring of 1692, with the avowed purpose +of having New Mexico reconquered as speedily as possible. + +Thus it will be seen that the quaint old city has been the scene of +many important historical events, the mere outline of which I have +recorded here, as this book is not devoted to the historical view +of the subject. + +In contradistinction to the quiet, sleepy old Santa Fe of half +a century ago, it now presents all the vigour, intelligence, and +bustling progressiveness of the average American city of to-day, +yet still smacks of that ancient Spanish regime, which gives it +a charm that only its blended European and Indian civilization +could make possible after its amalgamation with the United States. + +The tourist will no longer find a drowsy old town, and the Plaza +is no longer unfenced and uncared for. A beautiful park of trees +is surrounded by low palings, and inside the shady enclosure, +under a group of large cottonwoods, is a cenotaph erected to the +memory of the Territory's gallant soldiers who fell in the shock of +battle to save New Mexico to the Union in 1862, and conspicuous among +the names carved on the enduring native rock is that of Kit Carson-- +prince of frontiersmen, and one of Nature's noblemen. + +Around the Plaza one sees the American style of architecture and +hears the hum of American civilization; but beyond, and outside +this pretty park, the streets are narrow, crooked, and have an +ancient appearance. There the old Santa Fe confronts the stranger; +odd, foreign-looking, and flavoured with all the peculiarities which +marked the era of Mexican rule. And now, where once was heard the +excited shouts of the idle crowd, of "Los Americanos!" "Los Carros!" +"La entrada de la Caravana!" as the great freight wagons rolled into +the streets of the old town from the Missouri, over the Santa Fe Trail, +the shrill whistle of the locomotive from its trail of steel awakens +the echoes of the mighty hills. + +As may be imagined, great excitement always prevailed whenever a +caravan of goods arrived in Santa Fe. Particularly was this the case +among the feminine portion of the community. The quaint old town +turned out its mixed population en masse the moment the shouts went up +that the train was in sight. There is nothing there to-day comparable +to the anxious looks of the masses as they watched the heavily +freighted wagons rolling into the town, the teamsters dust-begrimed, +and the mules making the place hideous with their discordant braying +as they knew that their long journey was ended and rest awaited them. +The importing merchants were obliged to turn over to the custom house +officials five hundred dollars for every wagon-load, great or small; +and no matter what the intrinsic value of the goods might be, +salt or silk, velvets or sugar, it was all the same. The nefarious +duty had to be paid before a penny's worth could be transferred +to their counters. Of course, with the end of Mexican rule and +the acquisition of the Province by the United States, all opposition +to the traffic of the Old Santa Fe Trail ended, traders were assured +a profitable market and the people purchased at relatively low prices. + +What a wonderful change has taken place in the traffic with New Mexico +in less than three-quarters of a century! In 1825 it was all carried +on with one single annual caravan of prairie-schooners, and now there +are four railroads running through the Rio Grande Valley, and one +daily freight train of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe into the +town unloads more freight than was taken there in a whole year when +the "commerce of the prairies" was at its height! + +Upon the arrival of a caravan in the days of the sleepy regime under +Mexican control, the people did everything in their power to make +the time pass pleasantly for every one connected with it during +their sojourn. Bailes, or fandangoes, as the dancing parties were +called by the natives, were given nightly, and many amusing anecdotes +in regard to them are related by the old-timers. + +The New Mexicans, both men and women, had a great fondness for +jewelry, dress, and amusements; of the latter, the fandango was the +principal, which was held in the most fashionable place of resort, +where every belle and beauty in the town presented herself, +attired in the most costly manner, and displaying her jewelled +ornaments to the best advantage. To this place of recreation +and pleasure, generally a large, capacious saloon or interior court, +all classes of persons were allowed to come, without charge and +without invitation. The festivities usually commenced about nine +o'clock in the evening, and the tolling of the church bells was +the signal for the ladies to make their entrance, which they did +almost simultaneously. + +New Mexican ladies were famous for their gaudy dresses, but it must +be confessed they did not exercise good taste. Their robes were +made without bodies; a skirt only, and a long, loose, flowing scarf +or reboso dexterously thrown about the head and shoulders, so as to +supersede both the use of dress-bodies and bonnets. + +There was very little order maintained at these fandangoes, and still +less attention paid to the rules of etiquette. A kind of swinging, +gallopade waltz was the favourite dance, the cotillion not being +much in vogue. Read Byron's graphic description of the waltz, +and then stretch your imagination to its utmost tension, and you +will perhaps have some faint conception of the Mexican fandango. +Such familiarity of position as was indulged in would be repugnant +to the refined rules of polite society in the eastern cities; +but with the New Mexicans, in those early times, nothing was +considered to be a greater accomplishment than that of being able +to go handsomely through all the mazes of their peculiar dance. + +There was one republican feature about the New Mexican fandango; +it was that all classes, rich and poor alike, met and intermingled, +as did the Romans at their Saturnalia, upon terms of equality. +Sumptuous repasts or collations were rarely ever prepared for those +frolicsome gatherings, but there was always an abundance of +confectionery, sweetmeats, and native wine. It cost very little +for a man to attend one of the fandangoes in Santa Fe, but not to get +away decently and sober. In that it resembled the descent of Aeneas +to Pluto's realms; it was easy enough to get there, but when it came +to return, "revocare gradum, superasque evadere ad auras, hic labor, +hoc opus est." + + + + +CHAPTER II. +LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. + + + +In the beginning of the trade with New Mexico, the route across +the great plains was directly west from the Missouri River to the +mountains, thence south to Santa Fe by the circuitous trail from Taos. +When the traffic assumed an importance demanding a more easy line +of way, the road was changed, running along the left bank of the +Arkansas until that stream turned northwest, at which point it +crossed the river, and continued southwest to the Raton Pass. + +The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad track substantially +follows the Trail through the mountains, which here afford the +wildest and most picturesquely beautiful scenery on the continent. + +The Arkansas River at the fording of the Old Trail is not more than +knee-deep at an ordinary stage of water, and its bottom is well paved +with rounded pebbles of the primitive rock. + +The overland trade between the United States and the northern +provinces of Mexico seems to have had no very definite origin; +having been rather the result of an accident than of any organized +plan of commercial establishment. + +According to the best authorities, a French creole, named La Lande, +an agent of a merchant of Kaskaskia, Illinois, was the first American +adventurer to enter into the uncertain channels of trade with the +people of the ultramontane region of the centre of the continent. +He began his adventurous journey across the vast wilderness, +with no companions but the savages of the debatable land, in 1804; +and following him the next year, James Pursley undertook the same +pilgrimage. Neither of these pioneers in the "commerce of the +prairies" returned to relate what incidents marked the passage of +their marvellous expeditions. Pursley was so infatuated with the +strange country he had travelled so far to reach, that he took up +his abode in the quaint old town of Santa Fe where his subsequent +life is lost sight of. La Lande, of a different mould, forgot to +render an account of his mission to the merchant who had sent him +there, and became a prosperous and wealthy man by means of money +to which he had no right. + +To Captain Zebulon Pike, who afterwards was made a general, is due +the impetus which the trade with Santa Fe received shortly after +his return to the United States. The student of American history +will remember that the expedition commanded by this soldier was +inaugurated in 1806; his report of the route he had taken was the +incentive for commercial speculation in the direction of trade with +New Mexico, but it was so handicapped by restrictions imposed by the +Mexican government, that the adventurers into the precarious traffic +were not only subject to a complete confiscation of their wares, +but frequently imprisoned for months as spies. Under such a condition +of affairs, many of the earlier expeditions, prior to 1822, resulted +in disaster, and only a limited number met with an indifferent success. + +It will not be inconsistent with my text if I herewith interpolate +an incident connected with Pursley, the second American to cross +the desert, for the purpose of trade with New Mexico, which I find in +the _Magazine of American History_: + + When Zebulon M. Pike was in Mexico, in 1807, he met, + at Santa Fe, a carpenter, Pursley by name, from Bardstown, + Kentucky, who was working at his trade. He had in a + previous year, while out hunting on the Plains, met with + a series of misfortunes, and found himself near the + mountains. The hostile Sioux drove the party into the + high ground in the rear of Pike's Peak. Near the headwaters + of the Platte River, Pursley found some gold, which he + carried in his shot-pouch for months. He was finally sent + by his companions to Santa Fe, to see if they could trade + with the Mexicans, but he chose to remain in Santa Fe + in preference to returning to his comrades. He told the + Mexicans about the gold he had found, and they tried hard + to persuade him to show them the place. They even offered + to take along a strong force of cavalry. But Pursley + refused, and his patriotic reason was that he thought the + land belonged to the United States. He told Captain Pike + that he feared they would not allow him to leave Santa Fe, + as they still hoped to learn from him where the gold was + to be found. These facts were published by Captain Pike + soon after his return east; but no one took the hint, + or the risk was too great, and thus more than a half + a century passed before those same rich fields of gold + were found and opened to the world. If Pursley had been + somewhat less patriotic, and had guided the Mexicans to + the treasures, the whole history and condition of the + western part of our continent might have been entirely + different from what it now is. That region would still + have been a part of Mexico, or Spain might have been + in possession of it, owning California; and, with the gold + that would have been poured into her coffers, would have + been the leading nation of European affairs to-day. + We can easily see how American and European history in + the nineteenth century might have been changed, if that + adventurer from Kentucky had not been a true lover of his + native country. + +The adventures of Captain Ezekiel Williams along the Old Trail, +in the early days of the century, tell a story of wonderful courage, +endurance, and persistency. Williams was a man of great perseverance, +patience, and determination of character. He set out from St. Louis +in the late spring of 1807, to trap on the Upper Missouri and the +waters of the Yellowstone, with a party of twenty men who had chosen +him as their leader. After various exciting incidents and thrilling +adventures, all of the original party, except Williams and two others, +were killed by the Indians somewhere in the vicinity of the Upper +Arkansas. The three survivors, not knowing where they were, separated, +and Captain Williams determined to take to the stream by canoe, and +trap on his way toward the settlements, while his last two companions +started for the Spanish country--that is, for the region of Santa Fe. +The journal of Williams, from which I shall quote freely, is to be +found in _The Lost Trappers_, a work long out of print.[11] As the +country was an unexplored region, he might be on a river that flowed +into the Pacific, or he might be drifting down a stream that was +an affluent to the Gulf of Mexico. He was inclined to believe +that he was on the sources of the Red River. He therefore resolved +to launch his canoe, and go wherever the stream might convey him, +trapping on his descent, when beaver might be plenty. + +The first canoe he used he made of buffalo-skins. As this kind +of water conveyance soon begins to leak and rot, he made another +of cottonwood, as soon as he came to timber sufficiently large, +in which he embarked for a port, he knew not where. + +Most of his journeyings Captain Williams performed during the hours +of night, excepting when he felt it perfectly safe to travel in +daylight. His usual plan was to glide along down the stream, until +he came to a place where beaver signs were abundant. There he would +push his little bark among the willows, where he remained concealed, +excepting when he was setting his traps or visiting them in the +morning. When he had taken all the beaver in one neighbourhood, +he would untie his little conveyance, and glide onward and downward +to try his luck in another place. + +Thus for hundreds of miles did this solitary trapper float down this +unknown river, through an unknown country, here and there lashing +his canoe to the willows and planting his traps in the little +tributaries around. The upper part of the Arkansas, for this +proved to be the river he was on,[12] is very destitute of timber, +and the prairie frequently begins at the bank of the river and +expands on either side as far as the eye can reach. He saw vast +herds of buffalo, and as it was the rutting season, the bulls were +making a wonderful ado; the prairie resounded with their low, deep +grunting or bellowing, as they tore up the earth with their feet +and horns, whisking their tails, and defying their rivals to battle. +Large gangs of wild horses could be seen grazing on the plains and +hillsides, and the neighing and squealing of stallions might be heard +at all times of the night. + +Captain Williams never used his rifle to procure meat, except when +it was absolutely necessary, or could be done with perfect safety. +On occasions when he had no beaver, upon which he generally subsisted, +he ventured to kill a deer, and after refreshing his empty stomach +with a portion of the flesh, he placed the carcass in one end of the +canoe. It was his invariable custom to sleep in his canoe at night, +moored to the shore, and once when he had laid in a supply of venison +he was startled in his sleep by the tramping of something in the +bushes on the bank. Tramp! tramp! tramp! went the footsteps, +as they approached the canoe. He thought at first it might be an +Indian that had found out his locality, but he knew that it could +not be; a savage would not approach him in that careless manner. +Although there was beautiful starlight, yet the trees and the dense +undergrowth made it very dark on the bank of the river, close to which +he lay. He always adopted the precaution of tying his canoe with +a piece of rawhide about twenty feet long, which allowed it to swing +from the bank at that distance; he did this so that in case of an +emergency he might cut the string, and glide off without making +any noise. As the sound of the footsteps grew more distinct, +he presently observed a huge grizzly bear coming down to the water +and swimming for the canoe. The great animal held his head up as if +scenting the venison. The captain snatched his axe as the most +available means to defend himself in such a scrape, and stood with +it uplifted, ready to drive it into the brains of the monster. +The bear reached the canoe, and immediately put his fore paws upon +the hind end of it, nearly turning it over. The captain struck one +of the brute's feet with the edge of the axe, which made him let go +with that foot, but he held on with the other, and he received +this time a terrific blow on the head, that caused him to drop away +from the canoe entirely. Nothing more was seen of the bear, +and the captain thought he must have sunk in the stream and drowned. +He was evidently after the fresh meat, which he scented from a great +distance. In the canoe the next morning there were two of the bear's +claws, which had been cut off by the well-directed blow of the axe. +These were carefully preserved by Williams for many years as a trophy +which he was fond of exhibiting, and the history of which he always +delighted to tell. + +As he was descending the river with his peltries, which consisted of +one hundred and twenty-five beaver-skins, besides some of the otter +and other smaller animals, he overtook three Kansas Indians, who were +also in a canoe going down the river, as he learned from them, +to some post to trade with the whites. They manifested a very +friendly disposition towards the old trapper, and expressed a wish +to accompany him. He also learned from them, to his great delight, +that he was on the Big Arkansas, and not more than five hundred miles +from the white settlements. He was well enough versed in the +treachery of the Indian character to know just how much he could +repose in their confidence. He was aware that they would not allow +a solitary trapper to pass through their country with a valuable +collection of furs, without, at least, making an effort to rob him. +He knew that their plan would be to get him into a friendly +intercourse, and then, at the first opportunity, strip him of +everything he possessed; consequently he was determined to get rid +of them as soon as possible, and to effect this, he plied his oars +with all diligence. The Indians, like most North American savages, +were lazy, and had no disposition to labour in that way, but took it +quite leisurely, satisfied with being carried down by the current. +Williams soon left them in the rear, and, as he supposed, far +behind him. When night came on, however, as he had worked all day, +and slept none the night before, he resolved to turn aside into a +bunch of willows to take a few hours' rest. But he had not stopped +more than forty minutes when he heard some Indians pull to the shore +just above him on the same side of the river. He immediately +loosened his canoe from its moorings, and glided silently away. +He rowed hard for two or three hours, when he again pulled to the +bank and tied up. + +Only a short time after he had landed, he heard Indians again going +on shore on the same side of the stream as himself. A second time +he repeated his tactics, slipped out of his place of concealment, +and stole softly away. He pulled on vigorously until some time after +midnight, when he supposed he could with safety stop and snatch a +little sleep. He felt apprehensive that he was in a dangerous region, +and his anxiety kept him wide awake. It was very lucky that he +did not close his eyes; for as he was lying in the bottom of his canoe +he heard for the third time a canoe land as before. He was now +perfectly satisfied that he was dogged by the Kansans whom he had +passed the preceding day, and in no very good humour, therefore, +he picked up his rifle, and walked up to the bank where he had heard +the Indians land. As he suspected, there were the three savages. +When they saw the captain, they immediately renewed their expressions +of friendship, and invited him to partake of their hospitality. +He stood aloof from them, and shook his head in a rage, charging +them with their villanous purposes. In the short, sententious manner +of the Indians, he said to them: "You now follow me three times; +if you follow me again, I kill you!" and wheeling around abruptly, +returned to his canoe. A third time the solitary trapper pushed +his little craft from the shore and set off down stream, to get away +from a region where to sleep would be hazardous. He plied his oars +the remainder of the night, and solaced himself with the thought +that no evil had befallen him, except the loss of a few hours' sleep. + +While he was escaping from his villanous pursuers, he was running +into new dangers and difficulties. The following day he overtook +a large band of the same tribe, under the leadership of a chief, +who were also descending the river. Into the hands of these savages +he fell a prisoner, and was conducted to one of their villages. +The principal chief there took all of his furs, traps, and other +belongings. A very short time after his capture, the Kansans went +to war with the Pawnees, and carried Captain Williams with them. +In a terrible battle in which the Kansans gained a most decided +victory, the old trapper bore a conspicuous part, killing a great +number of the enemy, and by his excellent strategy brought about +the success of his captors. When they returned to the village, +Williams, who had ever been treated with kindness by the inhabitants, +was now thought to be a wonderful warrior, and could have been +advanced to all the savage honours; he might even have been made +one of their principal chiefs. The tribe gave him his liberty for +the great service he had rendered it in its difficulty with an +inveterate foe, but declining all proffered promotions, he decided +to return to the white settlements on the Missouri, at the mouth +of the Kaw, the covetous old chief retaining all his furs, and indeed +everything he possessed excepting his rifle, with as many rounds +of ammunition as would be necessary to secure him provisions in the +shape of game on his route. The veteran trapper had learned from +the Indians while with them that they expected to go to Fort Osage +on the Missouri River to receive some annuities from the government, +and he felt certain that his furs would be there at the same time. + +After leaving the Kansans he travelled on toward the Missouri, +and soon struck the beginning of the sparse settlements. Just as +evening was coming on, he arrived at a cluster of three little +log-cabins, and was received with genuine backwoods hospitality by +the proprietor, who had married an Osage squaw. Williams was not only +very hungry, but very tired; and, after enjoying an abundant supper, +he became stupid and sleepy, and expressed a wish to lie down. +The generous trapper accordingly conducted him to one of the cabins, +in which there were two beds, standing in opposite corners of +the room. He immediately threw himself upon one, and was soon in +a very deep sleep. About midnight his slumbers were disturbed by +a singular and very frightful kind of noise, accompanied by struggling +on the other bed. What it was, Williams was entirely at a loss to +understand. There were no windows in the cabin, the door was shut, +and it was as dark as Egypt. A fierce contest seemed to be going on. +There were deep groanings and hard breathings; and the snapping of +teeth appeared almost constant. For a moment the noise would subside, +then again the struggles woud be renewed accompanied as before +with groaning, deep sighing, and grinding of teeth. + +The captain's bed-clothes consisted of a couple of blankets and a +buffalo-robe, and as the terrible struggles continued he raised +himself up in the bed, and threw the robe around him for protection, +his rifle having been left in the cabin where his host slept, while +his knife was attached to his coat, which he had hung on the corner +post of the other bedstead from which the horrid struggles emanated. +In an instant the robe was pulled off, and he was left uncovered and +unprotected; in another moment a violent snatch carried away the +blanket upon which he was sitting, and he was nearly tumbled off the +bed with it. As the next thing might be a blow in the dark, he felt +that it was high time to shift his quarters; so he made a desperate +leap from the bed, and alighted on the opposite side of the room, +calling for his host, who immediately came to his relief by opening +the door. Williams then told him that the devil--or something +as bad, he believed--was in the room, and he wanted a light. +The accommodating trapper hurried away, and in a moment was back +with a candle, the light of which soon revealed the awful mystery. +It was an Indian, who at the time was struggling in convulsions, +which he was subject to. He was a superannuated chief, a relative of +the wife of the hospitable trapper, and generally made his home there. +Absent when Captain Williams arrived, he came into the room at a +very late hour, and went to the bed he usually occupied. No one +on the claim knew of his being there until he was discovered, +in a dreadfully mangled condition. He was removed to other quarters, +and Williams, who was not to be frightened out of a night's rest, +soon sunk into sound repose. + +Williams reached the agency by the time the Kansas Indians arrived +there, and, as he suspected, found that the wily old chief had brought +all his belongings, which he claimed, and the agent made the savages +give up the stolen property before he would pay them a cent of their +annuities. He took his furs down to St. Louis, sold them there +at a good price, and then started back to the Rocky Mountains on +another trapping tour. + + + + +CHAPTER III. +EARLY TRADERS. + + + +In 1812 a Captain Becknell, who had been on a trading expedition +to the country of the Comanches in the summer of 1811, and had done +remarkably well, determined the next season to change his objective +point to Santa Fe, and instead of the tedious process of bartering +with the Indians, to sell out his stock to the New Mexicans. +Successful in this, his first venture, he returned to the Missouri +River with a well-filled purse, and intensely enthusiastic over the +result of his excursion to the newly found market. + +Excited listeners to his tales of enormous profits were not lacking, +who, inspired by the inducement he held out to them, cheerfully +invested five thousand dollars in merchandise suited to the demands +of the trade, and were eager to attempt with him the passage of +the great plains. In this expedition there were thirty men, and +the amount of money in the undertaking was the largest that had yet +been ventured. The progress of the little caravan was without +extraordinary incident, until it arrived at "The Caches" on the +Upper Arkansas. There Becknell, who was in reality a man of the +then "Frontier," bold, plucky, and endowed with excellent sense, +conceived the ridiculous idea of striking directly across the country +for Santa Fe through a region absolutely unexplored; his excuse +for this rash movement being that he desired to avoid the rough and +circuitous mountain route he had travelled on his first trip to Taos. + +His temerity in abandoning the known for the unknown was severely +punished, and his brave men suffered untold misery, barely escaping +with their lives from the terrible straits to which they were reduced. +Not having the remotest conception of the region through which their +new trail was to lead them, and naturally supposing that water would +be found in streams or springs, when they left the Arkansas they +neglected to supply themselves with more than enough of the precious +fluid to last a couple of days. At the end of that time they learned, +too late, that they were in the midst of a desert, with all the +tortures of thirst threatening them. + +Without a tree or a path to guide them, they took an irregular course +by observations of the North Star, and the unreliable needle of an +azimuth pocket-compass. There was a total absence of water, and when +what they had brought with them in their canteens from the river was +exhausted, thirst began its horrible office. In a short time both men +and animals were in a mental condition bordering on distraction. +To alleviate their acute torment, the dogs of the train were killed, +and their blood, hot and sickening, eagerly swallowed; then the ears +of the mules were cut off for the same purpose, but such a substitute +for water only added to their sufferings. They would have perished +had not a superannuated buffalo bull that had just come from the +Cimarron River, where he had gone to quench his thirst, suddenly +appeared, to be immediately killed and the contents of his stomach +swallowed with avidity. It is recorded that one of those who partook +of the nauseous liquid said afterward, "nothing had ever passed +his lips which gave him such exquisite delight as his first draught +of that filthy beverage." + +Although they were near the Cimarron, where there was plenty of water, +which but for the affair of the buffalo they never would have suspected, +they decided to retrace their steps to the Arkansas. + +Before they started on their retreat, however, some of the strongest +of the party followed the trail of the animal that had saved their +lives to the river, where, filling all the canteens with pure water, +they returned to their comrades, who were, after drinking, able to +march slowly toward the Arkansas. + +Following that stream, they at last arrived at Taos, having experienced +no further trouble, but missed the trail to Santa Fe, and had their +journey greatly prolonged by the foolish endeavour of the leader +to make a short cut thither. + +As early as 1815, Auguste P. Chouteau and his partner, with a large +number of trappers and hunters, went out to the valley of the +Upper Arkansas for the purpose of trading with Indians, and trapping +on the numerous streams of the contiguous region. + +The island on which Chouteau established his trading-post, and which +bears his name even to this day, is in the Arkansas River on the +boundary line of the United States and Mexico. It was a beautiful +spot, with a rich carpet of grass and delightful groves, and on +the American side was a heavily timbered bottom. + +While occupying the island, Chouteau and his old hunters and trappers +were attacked by about three hundred Pawnees, whom they repulsed +with the loss of thirty killed and wounded. These Indians afterward +declared that it was the most fatal affair in which they were ever +engaged. It was their first acquaintance with American guns. + +The general character of the early trade with New Mexico was founded +on the system of the caravan. She depended upon the remote ports +of old Mexico, whence was transported, on the backs of the patient +burro and mule, all that was required by the primitive tastes of the +primitive people; a very tedious and slow process, as may be inferred, +and the limited traffic westwardly across the great plains was +confined to this fashion. At the date of the legitimate and +substantial commerce with New Mexico, in 1824, wheeled vehicles were +introduced, and traffic assumed an importance it could never have +otherwise attained, and which now, under the vast system of railroads, +has increased to dimensions little dreamed of by its originators +nearly three-quarters of a century ago. + +It was eight years after Pursley's pilgrimage before the trade with +New Mexico attracted the attention of speculators and adventurers. +Messrs. McKnight,[13] Beard, and Chambers, with about a dozen comrades, +started with a supply of goods across the unknown plains, and by +good luck arrived safely at Santa Fe. Once under the jurisdiction +of the Mexicans, however, their trouble began. All the party were +arrested as spies, their wares confiscated, and themselves +incarcerated at Chihuahua, where the majority of them were kept for +almost a decade. Beard and Chambers, having by some means escaped, +returned to St. Louis in 1822, and, notwithstanding their dreadful +experience, told of the prospects of the trade with the Mexicans +in such glowing colours that they induced some individuals of small +capital to fit out another expedition, with which they again set out +for Santa Fe. + +It was really too late in the season; they succeeded, however, +in reaching the crossing of the Arkansas without any difficulty, +but there a violent snowstorm overtook them and they were compelled +to halt, as it was impossible to proceed in the face of the blinding +blizzard. On an island[14] not far from where the town of Cimarron, +on the Santa Fe Railroad, is now situated, they were obliged to +remain for more than three months, during which time most of their +animals died for want of food and from the severe cold. When the +weather had moderated sufficiently to allow them to proceed on +their journey, they had no transportation for their goods and were +compelled to hide them in pits dug in the earth, after the manner +of the old French voyageurs in the early settlement of the continent. +This method of secreting furs and valuables of every character +is called caching, from the French word "to hide." Gregg thus +describes it: + + The cache is made by digging a hole in the ground, somewhat + in the shape of a jug, which is lined with dry sticks, + grass, or anything else that will protect its contents + from the dampness of the earth. In this place the goods + to be concealed are carefully stowed away; and the aperture + is then so effectually closed as to protect them from + the rains. In caching, a great deal of skill is often + required to leave no sign whereby the cunning savage may + discover the place of deposit. To this end, the excavated + earth is carried some distance and carefully concealed, + or thrown into a stream, if one be at hand. The place + selected for a cache is usually some rolling point, + sufficiently elevated to be secure from inundations. + If it be well set with grass, a solid piece of turf is + cut out large enough for the entrance. The turf is + afterward laid back, and, taking root, in a short time + no signs remain of its ever having been molested. + However, as every locality does not afford a turfy site, + the camp-fire is sometimes built upon the place, or the + animals are penned over it, which effectually destroys + all traces. + +Father Hennepin[15] thus describes, in his quaint style, how he built +a cache on the bank of the Mississippi, in 1680: + + We took up the green sodd, and laid it by, and digg'd a hole + in the Earth where we put our Goods, and cover'd them with + pieces of Timber and Earth, and then put in again the green + Turf; so that 'twas impossible to suspect that any Hole had + been digg'd under it, for we flung the Earth into the River. + +After caching their goods, Beard and the party went on to Taos, +where they bought mules, and returning to their caches transported +their contents to their market. + +The word "cache" still lingers among the "old-timers" of the mountains +and plains, and has become a provincialism with their descendants; +one of these will tell you that he cached his vegetables in the side +of the hill; or if he is out hunting and desires to secrete himself +from approaching game, he will say, "I am going to cache behind +that rock," etc. + +The place where Beard's little expedition wintered was called +"The Caches" for years, and the name has only fallen into disuse +within the last two decades. I remember the great holes in the +ground when I first crossed the plains, a third of a century ago. + +The immense profit upon merchandise transported across the dangerous +Trail of the mid-continent to the capital of New Mexico soon excited +the cupidity of other merchants east of the Missouri. When the +commonest domestic cloth, manufactured wholly from cotton, brought +from two to three dollars a yard at Santa Fe, and other articles at +the same ratio to cost, no wonder the commerce with the far-off market +appeared to those who desired to send goods there a veritable Golconda. + +The importance of internal trade with New Mexico, and the possibilities +of its growth, were first recognized by the United States in 1824, +the originator of the movement being Mr. Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri, +who frequently, from his place in the Senate, prophesied the coming +greatness of the West. He introduced a bill which authorized the +President to appoint a commission to survey a road from the Missouri +River to the boundary line of New Mexico, and from thence on Mexican +territory with the consent of the Mexican government. The signing of +this bill was one of the last acts of Mr. Monroe's official life, +and it was carried into effect by his successor, Mr. John Quincy Adams, +but unfortunately a mistake was made in supposing that the Osage +Indians alone controlled the course of the proposed route. It was +partially marked out as far as the Arkansas, by raised mounds; +but travellers continued to use the old wagon trail, and as no +negotiations had been entered into with the Comanches, Cheyennes, +Pawnees, or Kiowas, these warlike tribes continued to harass the +caravans when these arrived in the broad valley of the Arkansas. + +The American fur trade was at its height at the time when the Santa Fe +trade was just beginning to assume proportions worthy of notice; +the difference between the two enterprises being very marked. The fur +trade was in the hands of immensely wealthy companies, while that to +Santa Fe was carried on by individuals with limited capital, who, +purchasing goods in the Eastern markets, had them transported to +the Missouri River, where, until the trade to New Mexico became a +fixed business, everything was packed on mules. As soon, however, +as leading merchants invested their capital, about 1824, the trade +grew into vast proportions, and wagons took the place of the patient +mule. Later, oxen were substituted for mules, it having been +discovered that they possessed many advantages over the former, +particularly in being able to draw heavier loads than an equal number +of mules, especially through sandy or muddy places. + +For a long time, the traders were in the habit of purchasing their +mules in Santa Fe and driving them to the Missouri; but as soon as +that useful animal was raised in sufficient numbers in the Southern +States to supply the demand, the importation from New Mexico ceased, +for the reason that the American mule was in all respects an immensely +superior animal. + +Once mules were an important object of the trade, and those who dealt +in them and drove them across to the river on the Trail met with +many mishaps; frequently whole droves, containing from three to +five hundred, were stolen by the savages en route. The latter soon +learned that it was a very easy thing to stampede a caravan of mules, +for, once panic-stricken, it is impossible to restrain them, and +the Indians having started them kept them in a state of rampant +excitement by their blood-curdling yells, until they had driven them +miles beyond the Trail. + +A story is told of a small band of twelve men, who, while encamped +on the Cimarron River, in 1826, with but four serviceable guns among +them, were visited by a party of Indians, believed to be Arapahoes, +who made at first strong demonstrations of friendship and good-will. +Observing the defenceless condition of the traders, they went away, +but soon returned about thirty strong, each provided with a lasso, +and all on foot. The chief then began by informing the Americans +that his men were tired of walking, and must have horses. Thinking +it folly to offer any resistance, the terrified traders told them +if one animal apiece would satisfy them, to go and catch them. +This they soon did; but finding their request so easily complied with, +the Indians held a little parley together, which resulted in a new +demand for more--they must have two apiece! "Well, catch them!" +was the acquiescent reply of the unfortunate band; upon which the +savages mounted those they had already secured, and, swinging their +lassos over their heads, plunged among the stock with a furious yell, +and drove off the entire caballada of nearly five hundred head of +horses, mules, and asses. + +In 1829 the Indians of the plains became such a terror to the caravans +crossing to Santa Fe, that the United States government, upon petition +of the traders, ordered three companies of infantry and one of riflemen, +under command of Major Bennet Riley, to escort the annual caravan, +which that year started from the town of Franklin, Missouri, then the +eastern terminus of the Santa Fe trade, as far as Chouteau's Island, +on the Arkansas, which marked the boundary between the United States +and Mexico.[16] The caravan started from the island across the dreary +route unaccompanied by any troops, but had progressed only a few miles +when it was attacked by a band of Kiowas, then one of the most cruel +and bloodthirsty tribes on the plains.[17] + +This escort, commanded by Major Riley, and another under Captain +Wharton, composed of only sixty dragoons, five years later, were the +sole protection ever given by the government until 1843, when Captain +Philip St. George Cooke again accompanied two large caravans to the +same point on the Arkansas as did Major Riley fourteen years before. + +As the trade increased, the Comanches, Pawnees, and Arapahoes +continued to commit their depredations, and it was firmly believed +by many of the freighters that these Indians were incited to their +devilish acts by the Mexicans, who were always jealous of +"Los Americanos." + +It was very rarely that a caravan, great or small, or even a detachment +of troops, no matter how large, escaped the raids of these bandits of +the Trail. If the list of those who were killed outright and scalped, +and those more unfortunate who were taken captive only to be tortured +and their bodies horribly mutilated, could be collected from the +opening of the traffic with New Mexico until the years 1868-69, when +General Sheridan inaugurated his memorable "winter campaign" against +the allied plains tribes, and completely demoralized, cowed, and +forced them on their reservations, about the time of the advent of the +railroad, it would present an appalling picture; and the number of +horses, mules, and oxen stampeded and stolen during the same period +would amount to thousands. + +As the excellent narrative of Captain Pike is not read as it should be +by the average American, a brief reference to it may not be considered +supererogatory. The celebrated officer, who was afterward promoted +to the rank of major-general, and died in the achievement of the +victory of York, Upper Canada, in 1813, was sent in 1806 on an +exploring expedition up the Arkansas River, with instructions to pass +the sources of Red River, for which those of the Canadian were then +mistaken; he, however, even went around the head of the latter, +and crossing the mountains with an almost incredible degree of peril +and suffering, descended upon the Rio del Norte with his little party, +then but fifteen in number. + +Believing himself now on Red River, within the then assumed limits +of the United States, he built a small fortification for his company, +until the opening of the spring of 1807 should enable him to continue +his descent to Natchitoches. As he was really within Mexican +territory, and only about eighty miles from the northern settlements, +his position was soon discovered, and a force sent to take him to +Santa Fe, which by treachery was effected without opposition. +The Spanish officer assured him that the governor, learning that +he had mistaken his way, had sent animals and an escort to convey +his men and baggage to a navigable point on Red River (Rio Colorado), +and that His Excellency desired very much to see him at Santa Fe, +which might be taken on their way. + +As soon, however, as the governor had the too confiding captain +in his power, he sent him with his men to the commandant general +at Chihuahua, where most of his papers were seized, and he and +his party were sent under an escort, via San Antonio de Bexar, +to the United States. + +Many citizens of the remote Eastern States, who were contemporary +with Pike, declared that his expedition was in some way connected +with the treasonable attempt of Aaron Burr. The idea is simply +preposterous; Pike's whole line of conduct shows him to have been +of the most patriotic character; never would he for a moment have +countenanced a proposition from Aaron Burr! + +After Captain Pike's report had been published to the world, +the adventurers who were inspired by its glowing description of +the country he had been so far to explore were destined to experience +trials and disappointments of which they had formed no conception. + +Among them was a certain Captain Sublette, a famous old trapper +in the era of the great fur companies, and with him a Captain Smith, +who, although veteran pioneers of the Rocky Mountains, were mere +novices in the many complications of the Trail; but having been in +the fastnesses of the great divide of the continent, they thought +that when they got down on the plains they could go anywhere. +They started with twenty wagons, and left the Missouri without +a single one of the party being competent to guide the little caravan +on the dangerous route. + +From the Missouri the Trail was broad and plain enough for a child +to follow, but when they arrived at the Cimarron crossing of +the Arkansas, not a trace of former caravans was visible; nothing but +the innumerable buffalo-trails leading from everywhere to the river. + +When the party entered the desert, or Dry Route, as it was years +afterward always, and very properly, called in certain seasons +of drought, the brave but too confident men discovered that the +whole region was burnt up. They wandered on for several days, +the horrors of death by thirst constantly confronting them. +Water must be had or they would all perish! At last Smith, in his +desperation, determined to follow one of the numerous buffalo-trails, +believing that it would conduct him to water of some character-- +a lake or pool or even wallow. He left the train alone; asked for +no one to accompany him; for he was the very impersonation of courage, +one of the most fearless men that ever trapped in the mountains. + +He walked on and on for miles, when, on ascending a little divide, +he saw a stream in the valley beneath him. It was the Cimarron, +and he hurried toward it to quench his intolerable thirst. When he +arrived at its bank, to his disappointment it was nothing but a bed +of sand; the sometime clear running river was perfectly dry. + +Only for a moment was he staggered; he knew the character of many +streams in the West; that often their waters run under the ground +at a short distance from the surface, and in a moment he was on +his knees digging vigorously in the soft sand. Soon the coveted +fluid began to filter upwards into the little excavation he had made. +He stooped to drink, and in the next second a dozen arrows from an +ambushed band of Comanches entered his body. He did not die at once, +however; it is related by the Indians themselves that he killed two +of their number before death laid him low. + +Captain Sublette and Smith's other comrades did not know what had +become of him until some Mexican traders told them, having got the +report from the very savages who committed the cold-blooded murder. + +Gregg, in his report of this little expedition, says: + Every kind of fatality seems to have attended this small + caravan. Among other casualties, a clerk in their company, + named Minter, was killed by a band of Pawnees, before they + crossed the Arkansas. This, I believe, is the only instance + of loss of life among the traders while engaged in hunting, + although the scarcity of accidents can hardly be said to be + the result of prudence. There is not a day that hunters + do not commit some indescretion; such as straying at + a distance of five and even ten miles from the caravan, + frequently alone, and seldom in bands of more than two or + three together. In this state, they must frequently be + spied by prowling savages; so that frequency of escape, + under such circumstances, must be partly attributed to + the cowardice of the Indians; indeed, generally speaking, + the latter are very loth to charge upon even a single + armed man, unless they can take him at a decided advantage. + + Not long after, this band of Captain Sublette's very + narrowly escaped total destruction. They had fallen in + with an immense horde of Blackfeet and Gros Ventres, and, + as the traders were literally but a handful among thousands + of savages, they fancied themselves for a while in imminent + peril of being virtually "eated up." But as Captain + Sublette possessed considerable experience, he was at + no loss how to deal with these treacherous savages; so that + although the latter assumed a threatening attitude, + he passed them without any serious molestation, and finally + arrived at Santa Fe in safety. + +The virtual commencement of the Santa Fe trade dates from 1822, +and one of the most remarkable events in its history was the first +attempt to introduce wagons in the expeditions. This was made in 1824 +by a company of traders, about eighty in number, among whom were +several gentlemen of intelligence from Missouri, who contributed +by their superior skill and undaunted energy to render the enterprise +completely successful. A portion of this company employed pack-mules; +among the rest were owned twenty-five wheeled vehicles, of which +one or two were stout road-wagons, two were carts, and the rest +Dearborn carriages, the whole conveying some twenty-five or thirty +thousand dollars' worth of merchandise. Colonel Marmaduke, +of Missouri, was one of the party. This caravan arrived at Santa Fe +safely, experiencing much less difficulty than they anticipated +from a first attempt with wheeled vehicles. + +Gregg continues: + The early voyageurs, having but seldom experienced any + molestation from the Indians, generally crossed the plains + in detached bands, each individual rarely carrying more than + two or three hundred dollars' worth of stock. This peaceful + season, however, did not last very long; and it is greatly + to be feared that the traders were not always innocent of + having instigated the savage hostilities that ensued in + after years. Many seemed to forget the wholesome precept, + that they should not be savages themselves because they + dealt with savages. Instead of cultivating friendly + feelings with those few who remained peaceful and honest, + there was an occasional one always disposed to kill, + even in cold blood, every Indian that fell into their power, + merely because some of the tribe had committed an outrage + either against themselves or friends. + +As an instance of this, he relates the following: + In 1826 two young men named McNess and Monroe, having + carelessly lain down to sleep on the bank of a certain + stream, since known as McNess Creek,[18] were barbarously + shot, with their own guns, as it was supposed, in the very + sight of the caravan. When their comrades came up, + they found McNess lifeless, and the other almost expiring. + In this state the latter was carried nearly forty miles to + the Cimarron River, where he died, and was buried according + to the custom of the prairies, a very summary proceeding, + necessarily. The corpse, wrapped in a blanket, its shroud + the clothes it wore, is interred in a hole varying in depth + according to the nature of the soil, and upon the grave is + piled stones, if any are convenient, to prevent the wolves + from digging it up. Just as McNess's funeral ceremonies + were about to be concluded, six or seven Indians appeared + on the opposite side of the Cimarron. Some of the party + proposed inviting them to a parley, while the rest, burning + for revenge, evinced a desire to fire upon them at once. + It is more than probable, however, that the Indians were not + only innocent but ignorant of the outrage that had been + committed, or they would hardly have ventured to approach + the caravan. Being quick of perception, they very soon saw + the belligerent attitude assumed by the company, and + therefore wheeled round and attempted to escape. One shot + was fired, which brought an Indian to the ground, when he + was instantly riddled with balls. Almost simultaneously + another discharge of several guns followed, by which all + the rest were either killed or mortally wounded, except one, + who escaped to bear the news to his tribe. + + These wanton cruelties had a most disastrous effect upon the + prospects of the trade; for the exasperated children of + the desert became more and more hostile to the "pale-faces," + against whom they continued to wage a cruel war for many + successive years. In fact this party suffered very severely + a few days afterward. They were pursued by the enraged + comrades of the slain savages to the Arkansas River, where + they were robbed of nearly a thousand horses and mules. + +The author of this book, although having but little compassion for +the Indians, must admit that, during more than a third of a century +passed on the plains and in the mountains, he has never known of +a war with the hostile tribes that was not caused by broken faith +on the part of the United States or its agents. I will refer to +two prominent instances: that of the outbreak of the Nez Perces, and +that of the allied plains tribes. With the former a solemn treaty +was made in 1856, guaranteeing to them occupancy of the Wallola valley +forever. I. I. Stevens, who was governor of Washington Territory +at the time, and ex-officio superintendent of Indian affairs in +the region, met the Nez Perces, whose chief, "Wish-la-no-she," +an octogenarian, when grasping the hand of the governor at the council +said: "I put out my hand to the white man when Lewis and Clark +crossed the continent, in 1805, and have never taken it back since." +The tribe kept its word until the white men took forcible possession +of the valley promised to the Indians, when the latter broke out, +and a prolonged war was the consequence. In 1867 Congress appointed +a commission to treat with the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes, +appropriating four hundred thousand dollars for the expenses of +the commission. It met at Medicine Lodge in August of the year +mentioned, and made a solemn treaty, which the members of the +commission, on the part of the United States, and the principal +chiefs of the three tribes signed. Congress failed to make any +appropriation to carry out the provisions of the treaty, and the +Indians, after waiting a reasonable time, broke out, devastated +the settlements from the Platte to the Rio Grande, destroying +millions of dollars' worth of property, and sacrificing hundreds +of men, women, and children. Another war was the result, which +cost more millions, and under General Sheridan the hostile savages +were whipped into a peace, which they have been compelled to keep. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. +TRAINS AND PACKERS. + + + +As has been stated, until the year 1824 transportation across the +plains was done by means of pack-mules, the art of properly loading +which seems to be an intuitive attribute of the native Mexican. +The American, of course, soon became as expert, for nothing that +the genus homo is capable of doing is impossible to him; but his +teacher was the dark-visaged, superstitious, and profanity-expending +Mexican arriero. + +A description of the equipment of a mule-train and the method of +packing, together with some of the curious facts connected with +its movements, may not be uninteresting, particularly as the +whole thing, with rare exceptions in the regular army at remote +frontier posts, has been relegated to the past, along with the caravan +of the prairie and the overland coach. To this generation, barring +a few officers who have served against the Indians on the plains +and in the mountains, a pack-mule train would be as great a curiosity +as the hairy mammoth. In the following particulars I have taken +as a model the genuine Mexican pack-train or atajo, as it was called +in their Spanish dialect, always used in the early days of the +Santa Fe trade. The Americans made many modifications, but the basis +was purely Mexican in its origin. A pack-mule was termed a mula +de carga, and his equipment consisted of several parts; first, +the saddle, or aparejo, a nearly square pad of leather stuffed +with hay, which covered the animal's back on both sides equally. +The best idea of its shape will be formed by opening a book in +the middle and placing it saddle-fashion on the back of a chair. +Each half then forms a flap of the contrivance. Before the aparejo +was adjusted to the mule, a salea, or raw sheep-skin, made soft +by rubbing, was put on the animal's back, to prevent chafing, +and over it the saddle-cloth, or xerga. On top of both was placed +the aparejo, which was cinched by a wide grass-bandage. This band +was drawn as tightly as possible, to such an extent that the poor +brute grunted and groaned under the apparently painful operation, +and when fastened he seemed to be cut in two. This always appeared +to be the very acme of cruelty to the uninitiated, but it is the +secret of successful packing; the firmer the saddle, the more +comfortably the mule can travel, with less risk of being chafed +and bruised. The aparejo is furnished with a huge crupper, and +this appendage is really the most cruel of all, for it is almost +sure to lacerate the tail. Hardly a Mexican mule in the old days +of the trade could be found which did not bear the scar of this +rude supplement to the immense saddle. + +The load, which is termed a carga, was generally three hundred pounds. +Two arrieros, or packers, place the goods on the mule's back, +one, the cargador, standing on the near side, his assistant on +the other. The carga is then hoisted on top of the saddle if it +is a single package; or if there are two of equal size and weight, +one on each side, coupled by a rope, which balances them on the +animal. Another stout rope is then thrown over all, drawn as tightly +as possible under the belly, and laced round the packs, securing +them firmly in their place. Over the load, to protect it from rain, +is thrown a square piece of matting called a petate. Sometimes, +when a mule is a little refractory, he is blindfolded by a thin +piece of leather, generally embroidered, termed the tapojos, and +he remains perfectly quiet while the process of packing is going on. +When the load is securely fastened in its place, the blinder is +removed. The man on the near side, with his knee against the mule +for a purchase, as soon as the rope is hauled taut, cries out "Adios," +and his assistant answers "Vaya!" Then the first says again, "Anda!" +upon which the mule trots off to its companions, all of which feed +around until the animals of the whole train are packed. It seldom +requires more than five minutes for the two men to complete the +packing of the animal, and in that time is included the fastening +of the aperejo. It is surprising to note the degree of skill +exercised by an experienced packer, and his apparently abnormal +strength in handling the immense bundles that are sometimes +transported. By the aid of his knees used as a fulcrum, he lifts +a package and tosses it on the mule's back without any apparent +effort, the dead weight of which he could not move from the ground. + +An old-time atajo or caravan of pack-mules generally numbered from +fifty to two hundred, and it travelled a jornado, or day's march of +about twelve or fifteen miles. This day's journey was made without +any stopping at noon, because if a pack-mule is allowed to rest, +he generally tries to lie down, and with his heavy load it is +difficult for him to get on his feet again. Sometimes he is badly +strained in so doing, perhaps ruined forever. When the train starts +out on the trail, the mules are so tightly bound with the ropes +which confine the load that they move with great difficulty; +but the saddle soon settles itself and the ropes become loosened +so that they have frequently to be tightened. On the march the +arriero is kept busy nearly all the time; the packs are constantly +changing their position, frequently losing their balance and +falling off; sometimes saddle, pack, and all swing under the +animal's belly, and he must be unloaded and repacked again. + +On arriving at the camping-ground the pack-saddles with their loads +are ranged in regular order, their freight being between the saddles, +covered with the petates to protect it from the rain, and generally +a ditch is dug around to carry off the water, if the weather is stormy. +After two or three days' travel each mule knows its own pack and +saddle, and comes up to it at the proper moment with an intelligence +that is astonishing. If an animal should come whose pack is +somewhere else, he is soundly kicked in the ribs by the rightful mule, +and sent bruised and battered to his place. He rarely makes a mistake +in relation to the position of his own pack the second time. + +This method of transportation was so cheap, because of the low rate +of wages, that wagon-freighting, even in the most level region, +could not compete with it. Five dollars a month was the amount paid +to the muleteers, but it was oftener five with rations, costing +almost nothing, of corn and beans. Meat, if used at all, was found +by the arrieros themselves. + +On the trail the mule-train is under a system of discipline almost +as severe as that on board of a man-of-war. Every individual +employed is assigned to his place and has certain duties to perform. +There is a night-herder, called the savanero, whose duty it is +to keep the animals from straying too far away, as they are all +turned loose to shift for themselves, depending upon the grass alone +for their subsistence. Each herd has a mulera, or bell-mare, +which wears a bell hanging to a strap around her neck, and is kept +in view of the other animals, who will never leave her. If the mare +is taken away from the herd, every mule becomes really melancholy +and is at a loss what to do or where to go. The cook of the party, +or madre (mother) as he is called, besides his duty in preparing +the food, must lead the bell-mule ahead of the train while travelling, +the pack-animals following her with a devotion that is remarkable. + +Sometimes in traversing the narrow ledges cut around the sides of +a precipitous trail, or crossing a narrow natural bridge spanning +the frightful gorges found everywhere in the mountains, a mule +will be incontinently thrown off the slippery path, and fall hundreds +of feet into the yawning canyon below. Generally instant death +is their portion, though I recall an instance, while on an expedition +against the hostile Indians thirty years ago, where a number of mules +of our pack-train, loaded with ammunition, tumbled nearly five hundred +feet down an almost perpendicular chasm, and yet some of them got +on their feet again, and soon rejoined their companions, without +having suffered any serious injury. + +The wagons so long employed in this trade, after their first +introduction in 1824, were manufactured in Pittsburgh, their capacity +being about a ton and a half, and they were drawn by eight mules +or the same number of oxen. Later much larger wagons were employed +with nearly double the capacity of the first, hauled by ten and +twelve mules or oxen. These latter were soon called prairie-schooners, +which name continued to linger until transportation across the plains +by wagons was completely extinguished by the railroads. + +Under Mexican rule excessive tariff imposts were instituted, +amounting to about a hundred per cent upon goods brought from the +United States, and for some years, during the administration of +Governor Manuel Armijo, a purely arbitrary duty was demanded of +five hundred dollars for every wagon-load of merchandise brought +into the Province, whether great or small, and regardless of its +intrinsic value. As gold and silver were paid for the articles +brought by the traders, they were also required to pay a heavy duty +on the precious metals they took out of the country. Yankee ingenuity, +however, evaded much of these unjust taxes. When the caravan +approached Santa Fe, the freight of three wagons was transferred +to one, and the empty vehicles destroyed by fire; while to avoid +paying the export duty on gold and silver, they had large false +axletrees to some of the wagons, in which the money was concealed, +and the examining officer of the customs, perfectly unconscious of +the artifice, passed them. + +The army, in its expeditions against the hostile Indian tribes, +always employed wagons in transporting its provisions and munitions +of war, except in the mountains, where the faithful pack-mule was +substituted. The American freighters, since the occupation of +New Mexico by the United States, until the transcontinental railroad +usurped their vocation, used wagons only; the Mexican nomenclature +was soon dropped and simple English terms adopted: caravan became +train, and majordomo, the person in charge, wagon-master. The latter +was supreme. Upon him rested all the responsibility, and to him +the teamsters rendered absolute obedience. He was necessarily a man +of quick perception, always fertile in expedients in times of +emergency, and something of an engineer; for to know how properly +to cross a raging stream or a marshy slough with an outfit of fifty +or sixty wagons required more than ordinary intelligence. Then in +the case of a stampede, great clear-headedness and coolness were +needed to prevent loss of life. + +Stampedes were frequently very serious affairs, particularly with +a large mule-train. Notwithstanding the willingness and patient +qualities of that animal, he can act as absurdly as a Texas steer, +and is as easily frightened at nothing. Sometimes as insignificant +a circumstance as a prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, +a figure in the distance, or even the shadow of a passing cloud +will start every animal in the train, and away they go, rushing into +each other, and becoming entangled in such a manner that both drivers +and mules have often been crushed to death. It not infrequently +happened that five or six of the teams would dash off and never +could be found. I remember one instance that occurred on the trail +between Fort Hays and Fort Dodge, during General Sheridan's +winter campaign against the allied plains tribes in 1868. Three of +the wagons were dragged away by the mules, in a few moments were +out of sight, and were never recovered, although diligent search +was made for them for some days. Ten years afterward a farmer, +who had taken up a claim in what is now Rush County, Kansas, +discovered in a ravine on his place the bones of some animals, +decayed parts of harness, and the remains of three army-wagons, +which with other evidence proved them to be the identical ones +lost from the train so many years before. + +The largest six-mule wagon-train that was ever strung out on the +plains transported the supplies for General Custer's command during +the winter above referred to. It comprised over eight hundred +army-wagons, and was four miles in length in one column, or one mile +when in four lines--the usual formation when in the field. + +The animals of the train were either hobbled or herded at night, +according to the locality; if in an Indian country, always hobbled +or, preferably, tied up to the tongue of the wagon to which they +belonged. The hobble is simply a strip of rawhide, with two slides +of the same material. Placed on the front legs of the mule just +at the fetlock, the slides pushed close to the limb, the animal +could move around freely enough to graze, but was not able to travel +very fast in the event of a stampede. In the Indian country, it was +usual at night, or in the daytime when halting to feed, to form +a corral of the wagons, by placing them in a circle, the wheels +interlocked and the tongues run under the axles, into which circle +the mules, on the appearance of the savages, were driven, and which +also made a sort of fortress behind which the teamsters could more +effectually repel an attack. + +In the earlier trading expeditions to Santa Fe, the formation and +march of the caravan differed materially from that of the army-train +in later years. I here quote Gregg, whose authority on the subject +has never been questioned. When all was ready to move out on the +broad sea of prairie, he said: + + We held a council, at which the respective claims of the + different aspirants for office were considered, leaders + selected, and a system of government agreed upon--as is + the standing custom of these promiscuous caravans. + A captain was proclaimed elected, but his powers were not + defined by any constitutional provision; consequently, + they were very vague and uncertain. Orders being only + viewed as mere requests, they are often obeyed or neglected + at the caprice of the subordinates. It is necessary to + observe, however, that the captain is expected to direct + the order of travel during the day and to designate the + camping-ground at night, with many other functions of + general character, in the exercise of which the company + find it convenient to acquiesce. + + After this comes the task of organizing. The proprietors + are first notified by proclamation to furnish a list of + their men and wagons. The latter are generally apportioned + into four divisions, particularly when the company is large. + To each of these divisions, a lieutenant is appointed, + whose duty it is to inspect every ravine and creek on the + route, select the best crossings, and superintend what is + called in prairie parlance the forming of each encampment. + + There is nothing so much dreaded by inexperienced travellers + as the ordeal of guard duty. But no matter what the + condition or employment of the individual may be, no one + has the slightest chance of evading the common law of + the prairies. The amateur tourist and the listless loafer + are precisely in the same wholesome predicament--they must + all take their regular turn at the watch. There is usually + a set of genteel idlers attached to every caravan, whose + wits are forever at work in devising schemes for whiling + away their irksome hours at the expense of others. + By embarking in these trips of pleasure, they are enabled + to live without expense; for the hospitable traders seldom + refuse to accommodate even a loafing companion with a berth + at their mess without charge. But these lounging attaches + are expected at least to do good service by way of guard + duty. None are ever permitted to furnish a substitute, + as is frequently done in military expeditions; for he that + would undertake to stand the tour of another besides + his own would scarcely be watchful enough for dangers + of the prairies. Even the invalid must be able to produce + unequivocal proofs of his inability, or it is a chance + if the plea is admitted. + + The usual number of watchers is eight, each standing a + fourth of every alternate night. When the party is small, + the number is generally reduced, while in the case of + very small bands, they are sometimes compelled for safety's + sake to keep watch on duty half the night. With large + caravans the captain usually appoints eight sergeants + of the guard, each of whom takes an equal portion of men + under his command. + + The wild and motley aspect of the caravan can be but + imperfectly conceived without an idea of the costumes of + its various members. The most fashionable prairie dress + is the fustian frock of the city-bred merchant, furnished + with a multitude of pockets capable of accommodating a + variety of extra tackling. Then there is the backwoodsman + with his linsey or leather hunting-shirt--the farmer with + his blue jean coat--the wagoner with his flannel sleeve + vest--besides an assortment of other costumes which go + to fill up the picture. + + In the article of firearms there is also an equally + interesting medley. The frontier hunter sticks to his + rifle, as nothing could induce him to carry what he terms + in derision "the scatter-gun." The sportsman from the + interior flourishes his double-barrelled fowling-piece + with equal confidence in its superiority. A great many + were furnished beside with a bountiful supply of pistols + and knives of every description, so that the party made + altogether a very brigand-like appearance. + + "Catch up! Catch up!" is now sounded from the captain's + camp and echoed from every division and scattered group + along the valley. The woods and dales resound with the + gleeful yells of the light-hearted wagoners who, weary of + inaction and filled with joy at the prospect of getting + under way, become clamorous in the extreme. Each teamster + vies with his fellow who shall be soonest ready; and it + is a matter of boastful pride to be the first to cry out, + "All's set." + + The uproarious bustle which follows, the hallooing of those + in pursuit of animals, the exclamations which the unruly + brutes call forth from their wrathful drivers, together + with the clatter of bells, the rattle of yokes and harness, + the jingle of chains, all conspire to produce an uproarious + confusion. It is sometimes amusing to observe the athletic + wagoner hurrying an animal to its post--to see him heave + upon the halter of a stubborn mule, while the brute as + obstinately sets back, determined not to move a peg till + his own good pleasure thinks it proper to do so--his whole + manner seeming to say, "Wait till your hurry's over." + I have more than once seen a driver hitch a harnessed animal + to the halter, and by that process haul his mulishness + forward, while each of his four projected feet would leave + a furrow behind. + + "All's set!" is finally heard from some teamster-- + "All's set," is directly responded from every quarter. + "Stretch out!" immediately vociferates the captain. + Then the "heps!" to the drivers, the cracking of whips, + the trampling of feet, the occasional creak of wheels, + the rumbling of the wagons, while "Fall in" is heard from + head-quarters, and the train is strung out and in a few + moments has started on its long journey. + +With an army-train the discipline was as perfect as that of a garrison. +The wagon-master was under the orders of the commander of the troops +which escorted the caravan, the camps were formed with regard to +strategic principles, sentries walked their beats and were visited +by an officer of the day, as if stationed at a military post. + +Unquestionably the most expert packer I have known is Chris. Gilson, +of Kansas. In nearly all the expeditions on the great plains and +in the mountains he has been the master-spirit of the pack-trains. +General Sheridan, who knew Gilson long before the war, in Oregon +and Washington, regarded the celebrated packer with more than +ordinary friendship. For many years he was employed by the government +at the suggestion of General Sheridan, to teach the art of packing +to the officers and enlisted men at several military posts in the West. +He received a large salary, and for a long period was stationed at +the immense cavalry depot of Fort Riley, in Kansas. Gilson was also +employed by the British army during the Zulu war in Africa, +as chief packer, at a salary of twenty dollars a day. Now, however, +since the railroads have penetrated the once considered impenetrable +fastnesses of the mountains, packing will be relegated to the lost arts. + + + + +CHAPTER V. +FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. + + + +Early in the spring of 1828, a company of young men residing in the +vicinity of Franklin, Missouri, having heard related by a neighbour +who had recently returned the wonderful story of a passage across +the great plains, and the strange things to be seen in the land of +the Greasers, determined to explore the region for themselves; +making the trip in wagons, an innovation of a startling character, +as heretofore only pack-animals had been employed in the limited trade +with far-off Santa Fe. The story of their journey can best be told +in the words of one of the party:[19]-- + + We had about one thousand miles to travel, and as there was + no wagon-road in those early days across the plains to the + mountains, we were compelled to take our chances through + the vast wilderness, seeking the best route we could. + + No signs of life were visible except the innumerable buffalo + and antelope that were constantly crossing our trail. + We moved on slowly from day to day without any incident + worth recording and arrived at the Arkansas; made the + passage and entered the Great American Desert lying beyond, + as listless, lonesome, and noiseless as a sleeping sea. + Having neglected to carry any water with us, we were obliged + to go withot a drop for two days and nights after leaving + the river. At last we reached the Cimarron, a cool, + sparkling stream, ourselves and our animals on the point + of perishing. Our joy at discovering it, however, was + short-lived. We had scarcely quenched our thirst when + we saw, to our dismay, a large band of Indians camped on + its banks. Their furtive glances at us, and significant + looks at each other, aroused our worst suspicions, and + we instinctively felt we were not to get away without + serious trouble. Contrary to our expectations, however, + they did not offer to molest us, and we at once made up + our minds they preferred to wait for our return, as we + believed they had somehow learned of our intention to bring + back from New Mexico a large herd of mules and ponies. + + We arrived in Santa Fe on the 20th of July, without further + adventure, and after having our stock of goods passed + through the custom house, were granted the privilege of + selling them. The majority of the party sold out in a + very short time and started on their road to the States, + leaving twenty-one of us behind to return later. + + On the first day of September, those of us who had remained + in Santa Fe commenced our homeward journey. We started + with one hundred and fifty mules and horses, four wagons, + and a large amount of silver coin. Nothing of an eventful + character occurred until we arrived at the Upper Cimarron + Springs, where we intended to encamp for the night. + But our anticipations of peaceable repose were rudely + dispelled; for when we rode up on the summit of the hill, + the sight that met our eyes was appalling enough to excite + the gravest apprehensions. It was a large camp of + Comanches, evidently there for the purpose of robbery + and murder. We could neither turn back nor go on either + side of them on account of the mountainous character of + the country, and we realized, when too late, that we were + in a trap. + + There was only one road open to us; that right through + the camp. Assuming the bravest look possible, and keeping + our rifles in position for immediate action, we started + on the perilous venture. The chief met us with a smile + of welcome, and said, in Spanish: "You must stay with us + to-night. Our young men will guard your stock, and we have + plenty of buffalo meat." + + Realizing the danger of our situation, we took advantage + of every moment of time to hurry through their camp. + Captain Means, Ellison, and myself were a little distance + behind the wagons, on horseback; observing that the balance + of our men were evading them, the blood-thirsty savages + at once threw off their masks of dissimulation and in an + instant we knew the time for a struggle had arrived. + + The Indians, as we rode on, seized our bridle-reins and + began to fire upon us. Ellison and I put spurs to our + horses and got away, but Captain Means, a brave man, + was ruthlessly shot and cruelly scalped while the life-blood + was pouring from his ghastly wounds. + + We succeeded in fighting them off until we had left their + camp half a mile behind, and as darkness had settled down + on us, we decided to go into camp ourselves. We tied our + gray bell-mare to a stake, and went out and jingled the + bell, whenever any of us could do so, thus keeping the + animals from stampeding. We corralled our wagons for + better protection, and the Indians kept us busy all night + resisting their furious charges. We all knew that death + at our posts would be infinitely preferable to falling + into their hands; so we resolved to sell our lives as + dearly as possible. + + The next day we made but five miles; it was a continuous + fight, and a very difficult matter to prevent their + capturing us. This annoyance was kept up for four days; + they would surround us, then let up as if taking time to + renew their strength, to suddenly charge upon us again, + and they continued thus to harass us until we were almost + exhausted from loss of sleep. + + After leaving the Cimarron, we once more emerged on the + open plains and flattered ourselves we were well rid of + the savages; but about twelve o'clock they came down on us + again, uttering their demoniacal yells, which frightened + our horses and mules so terribly, that we lost every hoof. + A member of our party, named Hitt, in endeavouring to + recapture some of the stolen stock, was taken by the + savages, but luckily escaped from their clutches, after + having been wounded in sixteen parts of his body; + he was shot, tomahawked, and speared. When the painted + demons saw that one of their number had been killed by us, + they left the field for a time, while we, taking advantage + of the temporary lull, went back to our wagons and built + breastworks of them, the harness, and saddles. From noon + until two hours in the night, when the moon went down, + the savages were apparently confident we would soon fall + a prey to them, and they made charge after charge upon + our rude fortifications. + + Darkness was now upon us. There were two alternatives + before us: should we resolve to die where we were, or + attempt to escape in the black hours of the night? + It was a desperate situation. Our little band looked + the matter squarely in the face, and, after a council + of war had been held, we determined to escape, if possible. + + In order to carry out our resolve, it was necessary to + abandon the wagons, together with a large amount of silver + coin, as it would be impossible to take all of the precious + stuff with us in our flight; so we packed up as much of it + as we could carry, and, bidding our hard-earned wealth + a reluctant farewell, stepped out in the darkness like + spectres and hurried away from the scene of death. + + Our proper course was easterly, but we went in a northerly + direction in order to avoid the Indians. We travelled + all that night, the next day, and a portion of its night + until we reached the Arkansas River, and, having eaten + nothing during that whole time excepting a few prickly-pears, + were beginning to feel weak from the weight of our burdens + and exhaustion. At this point we decided to lighten + our loads by burying all of the money we had carried + thus far, keeping only a small sum for each man. + Proceeding to a small island in the river, our treasure, + amounting to over ten thousand silver dollars, was cached + in the ground between two cottonwood trees. + + Believing now that we were out of the usual range of + the predatory Indians, we shot a buffalo and an antelope + which we cooked and ate without salt or bread; but no meal + has ever tasted better to me than that one. + + We continued our journey northward for three or four days + more, when, reaching Pawnee Fork, we travelled down it for + more than a week, arriving again on the Old Santa Fe Trail. + Following the Trail three days, we arrived at Walnut Creek, + then left the river again and went eastwardly to Cow Creek. + When we reached that point, we had become so completely + exhausted and worn out from subsisting on buffalo meat + alone, that it seemed as if there was nothing left for + us to do but lie down and die. Finally it was determined + to send five of the best-preserved men on ahead to + Independence, two hundred miles, for the purpose of + procuring assistance; the other fifteen to get along + as well as they could until succour reached them. + + I was one of the five selected to go on in advance, and + I shall never forget the terrible suffering we endured. + We had no blankets, and it was getting late in the fall. + Some of us were entirely barefooted, and our feet so sore + that we left stains of blood at every step. Deafness, too, + seized upon us so intensely, occasioned by our weak + condition, that we coud not hear the report of a gun fired + at a distance of only a few feet. + + At one place two of our men laid down their arms, declaring + they could carry them no farther, and would die if they + did not get water. We left them and went in search of some. + After following a dry branch several miles, we found + a muddy puddle from which we succeeded in getting half + a bucket full, and, although black and thick, it was life + for us and we guarded it with jealous eyes. We returned + to our comrades about daylight, and the water so refreshed + them they were able to resume the weary march. We travelled + on until we arrived at the Big Blue River, in Missouri, + on the bank of which we discovered a cabin about fifteen + miles from Independence. The occupants of the rude shanty + were women, seemingly very poor, but they freely offered us + a pot of pumpkin they were stewing. When they first saw us, + they were terribly frightened, because we looked more like + skeletons than living beings. They jumped on the bed while + we were greedily devouring the pumpkin, but we had to + refuse some salt meat which they had also proffered, + as our teeth were too sore to eat it. In a short time + two men came to the cabin and took three of our men + home with them. We had subsisted for eleven days on + one turkey, a coon, a crow, and some elm bark, with an + occasional bunch of wild grapes, and the pictures we + presented to these good people they will never, probably, + forget; we had not tasted bread or salt for thirty-two days. + + The next day our newly found friends secured horses and + guided us to Independence, all riding without saddles. + One of the party had gone on to notify the citizens of + our safety, and when we arrived general muster was going on, + the town was crowded, and when the people looked upon us + the most intense excitement prevailed. All business was + suspended; the entire population flocked around us to hear + the remarkable story of our adventures, and to render us + the assistance we so much needed. We were half-naked, + foot-sore, and haggard, presenting such a pitiable picture + that the greatest sympathy was immediately aroused in + our behalf. + + We then said that behind us on the Trail somewhere, fifteen + comrades were struggling toward Independence, or were + already dead from their sufferings. In a very few minutes + seven men with fifteen horses started out to rescue them. + + They were gone from Independence several days, but had the + good fortune to find all the men just in time to save them + from starvation and exhaustion. Two were discovered + a hundred miles from Independence, and the remainder + scattered along the Trail fifty miles further in their rear. + Not more than two of the unfortunate party were together. + The humane rescuers seemingly brought back nothing but + living skeletons wrapped in rags; but the good people of + the place vied with each other in their attentions, and + under their watchful care the sufferers rapidly recuperated. + + One would suppose that we had had enough of the great plains + after our first trip; not so, however, for in the spring + we started again on the same journey. Major Riley, with + four companies of regular soldiers, was detailed to escort + the Santa Fe traders' caravans to the boundary line between + the United States and Mexico, and we went along to recover + the money we had buried, the command having been ordered to + remain in camp to await our return until the 20th of October. + + We left Fort Leavenworth about the 10th of May, and were + soon again on the plains. Many of the troops had never + seen any buffalo before, and found great sport in wantonly + slaughtering them. At Walnut Creek we halted to secure + a cannon which had been thrown into that stream two seasons + previously, and succeeded in dragging it out. With a seine + made of brush and grape vine, we caught more fine fish than + we could possibly dispose of. One morning the camp was + thrown into the greatest state of excitement by a band of + Indians running an enormous herd of buffalo right into us. + The troops fired at them by platoons, killing hundreds + of them. + + We marched in two columns, and formed a hollow square + at night when we camped, in which all slept excepting + those on guard duty. Frequently some one would discover + a rattlesnake or a horned toad in bed with him, and it + did not take him a very long time to crawl out of his + blankets! + + On the 10th of July, we arrived at the dividing line + separating the two countries, and went into camp. The next + day Major Riley sent a squad of soldiers to escort myself + and another of our old party, who had helped bury the + ten thousand dollars, to find it. It was a few miles + further up the Arkansas than our camp, in the Mexican + limits, and when we reached the memorable spot on the + island,[20] we found the coin safe, but the water had + washed the earth away, and the silver was exposed to view + to excite the cupidity of any one passing that way; + there were not many travellers on that lonely route in + those days, however, and it would have been just as secure, + probably, had we simply poured it on the ground. + + We put the money in sacks and deposited it with Major Riley, + and, leaving the camp, started for Santa Fe with Captain + Bent as leader of the traders. We had not proceeded far + when our advanced guard met Indians. They turned, and when + within two hundred yards of us, one man named Samuel Lamme + was killed, his body being completely riddled with arrows. + His head was cut off, and all his clothes stripped from + his body. We had a cannon, but the Mexicans who hauled it + had tied it up in such a way that it could not be utilized + in time to effect anything in the first assault; but when + at last it was turned loose upon the Indians, they fled + in dismay at the terrible noise. + + The troops at the crossing of the Arkansas, hearing the + firing, came to our assistance. The next morning the + hills were covered by fully two thousand Indians, who had + evidently congregated there for the purpose of annihilating + us, and the coming of the soldiers was indeed fortunate; + for as soon as the cowardly savages discovered them + they fled. Major Riley accompanied us on our march for + a few days, and, seeing no more Indians, he returned to + his camp. + + We travelled on for a week, then met a hundred Mexicans + who were out on the plains hunting buffalo. They had + killed a great many and were drying the meat. We waited + until they were ready to return and then all started for + Santa Fe together. + + At Rabbit-Ear Mountain the Indians had constructed + breastworks in the brush, intending to fight it out there. + The Mexicans were in the advance and had one of their + number killed before discovering the enemy. We passed + Point of Rocks and camped on the river. One of the + Mexicans went out hunting and shot a huge panther; + next morning he asked a companion to go with him and help + skin the animal. They saw the Indians in the brush, and + the one who had killed the panther said to the other, + "Now for the mountains"; but his comrade retreated, + and was despatched by the savages almost within reach + of the column. + + We now decided to change our destination, intending to go + to Taos instead of Santa Fe, but the governor of the + Province sent out troops to stop us, as Taos was not a + place of entry. The soldiers remained with us a whole week, + until we arrived at Santa Fe, where we disposed of our goods + and soon began to make preparations for our return trip. + + When we were ready to start back, seven priests and a + number of wealthy families, comfortably fixed in carriages, + accompanied us. The Mexican government ordered Colonel + Viscarra of the army, with five troops of cavalry, + to guard us to the camp of Major Riley. + + We experienced no trouble until we arrived at the + Cimarron River. About sunset, just as we were preparing + to camp for the night, the sentinels saw a body of a + hundred Indians approaching; they fired at them and ran + to camp. Knowing they had been discovered, the Indians + came on and made friendly overtures; but the Pueblos who + who were with the command of Colonel Viscarra wanted to + fight them at once, saying the fellows meant mischief. + We declined to camp with them unless they would agree to + give up their arms; they pretended they were willing to + do so, when one of them put his gun at the breast of our + interpreter and pulled the trigger. In an instant a bloody + scene ensued; several of Viscarra's men were killed, + together with a number of mules. Finally the Indians + were whipped and tried to get away, but we chased them + some distance and killed thirty-five. Our friendly Pueblos + were delighted, and proceeded to scalp the savages, + hanging the bloody trophies on the points of their spears. + That night they indulged in a war-dance which lasted + until nearly morning. + + We were delighted to see a beautiful sunshiny day after + the horrors of the preceding night, and continued our march + without farther interruption, safely arriving at the camp + on the boundary line, where Major Riley was waiting for us, + as we supposed; but his time having expired the day before, + he had left for Fort Leavenworth. A courier was despatched + to him, however, as Colonel Viscarra desired to meet the + American commander and see his troops. The courier overtook + Major Riley a short distance away, and he halted for us + to come up. Both commands then went into camp, and spent + several days comparing the discipline of the armies of + the two nations, and having a general good time. + Colonel Viscarra greatly admired our small arms, and + took his leave in a very courteous manner. + + We arrived at Fort Leavenworth late in the season, and + from there we all scattered. I received my share of the + money we had cached on the island, and bade my comrades + farewell, only a few of whom I have ever seen since. + +Mr. Hitt in his notes of this same perilous trip says: + When the grass had sufficiently started to insure the + subsistence of our teams, our wagons were loaded with + a miscellaneous assortment of merchandise and the first + trader's caravan of wagons that ever crossed the plains + left Independence. Before we had travelled three weeks + on our journey, we were one evening confronted with the + novel fact of camping in a country where not a stick of + wood could be found. The grass was too green to burn, + and we were wondering how our fire could be started + with which to boil our coffee, or cook our bread. One of + our number, however, while diligently searching for + something to utilize, suddenly discovered scattered all + around him a large quantity of buffalo-chips, and he soon + had an excellent fire under way, his coffee boiling and + his bacon sizzling over the glowing coals. + + We arrived in Santa Fe without incident, and as ours + was the first train of wagons that ever traversed the + narrow streets of the quaint old town, it was, of course, + a great curiosity to the natives. + + After a few days' rest, sight-seeing, and purchasing stock + to replace our own jaded animals, preparations were made + for the return trip. All the money we had received for + our goods was in gold and silver, principally the latter, + in consequence of which, each member of the company had + about as much as he could conveniently manage, and, + as events turned out, much more than he could take care of. + + On the morning of the third day out, when we were not + looking for the least trouble, our entire herd was + stampeded, and we were left upon the prairie without + as much as a single mule to pursue the fast-fleeing + thieves. The Mexicans and Indians had come so suddenly + upon us, and had made such an effective dash, that we + stood like children who had broken their toys on a stone + at their feet. We were so unprepared for such a stampede + that the thieves did not approach within rifle-shot range + of the camp to accomplish their object; few of them + coming within sight, even. + + After the excitement had somewhat subsided and we began + to realize what had been done, it was decided that while + some should remain to guard the camp, others must go to + Santa Fe to see if they could not recover the stock. + The party that went to Santa Fe had no difficulty in + recognizing the stolen animals; but when they claimed them, + they were laughed at by the officials of the place. + They experienced no difficulty, however, in purchasing + the same stock for a small sum, which they at once did, + and hurried back to camp. By this unpleasant episode + we learned of the stealth and treachery of the miserable + people in whose country we were. We, therefore, took every + precaution to prevent a repetition of the affair, and + kept up a vigilant guard night and day. + + Matters progressed very well, and when we had travelled + some three hundred miles eastwardly, thinking we were + out of range of any predatory bands, as we had seen no + sign of any living thing, we relaxed our vigilance somewhat. + One morning, just before dawn, the whole earth seemed to + resound with the most horrible noises that ever greeted + human ears; every blade of grass appeared to re-echo + the horrid din. In a few moments every man was at his post, + rifle in hand, ready for any emergency, and almost + immediately a large band of Indians made their appearance, + riding within rifle-shot of the wagons. A continuous + battle raged for several hours, the savages discharging + a shot, then scampering off out of range as fast as + their ponies could carry them. Some, more brave than + others would venture closer to the corral, and one of these + got the contents of an old-fashioned flint-lock musket + in his bowels. + + We were careful not all to fire at the same time, and + several of our party, who were watching the effects of + our shots declared they could see the dust fly out of + the robes of the Indians as the bullets struck them. + It was learned afterward that a number of the savages + were wounded, and that several had died. Many were armed + with bows and arrows only, and in order to do any execution + were obliged to come near the corral. The Indians soon + discovered they were getting the worst of the fight, and, + having run off all the stock, abandoned the conflict, + leaving us in possession of the camp, but it can hardly + be said masters of the situation. + + There we were; thirty-five pioneers upon the wild prairie, + surrounded by a wily and terribly cruel foe, without + transportation of any character but our own legs, and with + five hundred miles of dangerous, trackless waste between + us and the settlements. We had an abundance of money, + but the stuff was absolutely worthless for the present, + as there was nothing we could buy with it. + + After the last savage had ridden away into the sand hills + on the opposite side of the river, each one of us had a + thrilling story to relate of his individual narrow escapes. + Though none was killed, many received wounds, the scars + of which they carried through life. I was wounded six + times. Once was in the thigh by an arrow, and once while + loading my rifle I had my ramrod shot off close to the + muzzle of my piece, the ball just grazing my shoulder, + tearing away a small portion of the skin. Others had + equally curious experiences, but none were seriously injured. + + After the excitement incident to the battle had subsided, + the realization of our condition fully dawned upon us. + When we were first robbed, we were only a short distance + from Santa Fe, where our money easily procured other stock; + now there were three hundred miles behind us to that place, + and the picture was anything but pleasant to contemplate. + To transport supplies for thirty-five men seemed impossible. + Our money was now a burden greater than we could bear; + what was to be done with it? We would have no use for it + on our way to the settlements, yet the idea of abandoning + it seemed hard to accept. A vigilant guard was kept up + that day and night, during which time we all remained + in camp, fearing a renewal of the attack. + + The next morning, as there were no apparent signs of + the Indians, it was decided to reconnoitre the surrounding + country in the hope of recovering a portion, at least, + of our lost stock, which we thought might have become + separated from the main herd. Three men were detailed + to stay in the old camp to guard it while the remainder, + in squads, scoured the hills and ravines. Not a horse + or mule was visible anywhere; the stampede had been + complete--not even the direction the animals had taken + could be discovered. + + It was late in the afternoon when I, having left my + companions to continue the search and returning to camp + alone, had gotten within a mile of it, that I thought I saw + a horse feeding upon an adjoining hill. I at once turned + my steps in that direction, and had proceeded but a short + distance when three Indians jumped from their ambush in + the grass between me and the wagons and ran after me. + The men in camp had been watching my every movement, + and as soon as they saw the savages were chasing me, + they started in pursuit, running at their greatest speed + to my rescue. + + The savages soon overtook me, and the first one that + came up tackled me, but in an instant found himself flat + on the ground. Before he could get up, the second one + shared the same fate. By this time the third one arrived, + and the two I had thrown grabbed me by the legs so that + I could no longer handle myself, while the third one had + a comparatively easy task in pushing me over. Fortunately, + my head fell toward the camp and my fast-approaching + comrades. The two Indians held my legs to prevent my + rising, while the third one, who was standing over me, + drew from his belt a tomahawk, and shrugging his head + in his blanket, at the same time looking over his shoulder + at my friends, with a tremendous effort and that peculiar + grunt of all savages, plunged his hatchet, as he supposed, + into my head, but instead of scuffling to free myself + and rise to my feet, I merely turned my head to one side + and the wicked weapon was buried in the ground, just + grazing my ear. + + The Indian, seeing that he had missed, raised his hatchet + and once more shrugging his head in his blanket, and + turning to look over his other shoulder, attempted to + strike again, but the blow was evaded by a sudden toss + of his intended victim's head. Not satisfied with two + abortive trials, the third attempt must be made to brain me, + and repeating the same motions, with a great "Ugh!" he + seemed to put all his strength into the blow, which, like + the others, missed, and spent its force in the earth. + By this time the rescuing party had come near enough to + prevent the savage from risking another effort, and he then + addressed the other Indians in Spanish, which I understood, + saying, "We must run or the Americans will kill us!" + and loosening his grasp, he scampered off with his + companions as fast as his legs could take him, hurried on + by several pieces of lead fired from the old flintlocks + of the traders. + + By sundown every man had returned to the forlorn camp, + but not an animal had been recovered. Then, with tired + limbs and weary hearts, we took turns at guarding the + wagons through the long night. The next morning each man + shouldered his rifle, and having had his proportion of + the provisions and cooking utensils assigned him, + we broke camp, and again turned to take a last look at + the country behind us, in which we had experienced so much + misfortune, and started on foot for our long march through + the dangerous region ahead of us. + + Scarcely had we gotten out of sight of our abandoned camp, + when one of the party, happening to turn his eyes in that + direction, saw a large volume of smoke rising in the + vicinity; then we knew that all of our wagons, and + everything we had been forced to leave, were burning up. + This proved that, although we had been unable to discover + any signs of Indians, they had been lurking around us + all the time, and this fact warned us to exercise the + utmost vigilance in guarding our persons. + + Though our burdens were very heavy, the first few days + were passed without anything to relieve the dreadful + monotony of our wearisome march; but each succeeding + twenty-four hours our loads became visibly lighter, + as our supplies were rapidly diminishing. It had already + become apparent that even in the exercise of the greatest + frugality, our stock of provisions would not last until + we could reach the settlements, so some of the most expert + shots were selected to hunt for game; but even in this + they were not successful, the very birds seeming to have + abandoned the country in its extreme desolation. + + After eight days' travel, despite our most rigid economy, + an inventory showed that there was less than one hundred + pounds of flour left. Day after day the hunters repeated + the same old story: "No game!" For two weeks the allowance + of flour to each individual was but a spoonful, stirred + in water and taken three times a day. + + One afternoon, however, fortune smiled upon the weary party; + one of the hunters returned to camp with a turkey he had + killed. It was soon broiling over a fire which willing + hands had kindled, and our drooping spirits were revived + for a while. While the turkey was cooking, a crow flew + over the camp, and one of the company, seizing a gun, + despatched it, and in a few moments it, too, was sizzling + along with the other bird. + + Now, in addition to the pangs of hunger, a scarcity of + water confronted us, and one day we were compelled to + resort to a buffalo-wallow and suck the moist clay where + the huge animals had been stamping in the mud. We were + much reduced in strength, yet each day added new + difficulties to our forlorn situation. Some became so weak + and exhausted that it was with the greatest effort they + could travel at all. To divide the company and leave + the more feeble behind to starve, or to be murdered by + the merciless savages, was not considered for a moment; + but one alternative remained, and that was speedily accepted. + As soon as a convenient camping-ground could be found, + a halt was made, shelter established, and things made as + comfortable as possible. Here the weakest remained to rest, + while some of the strongest scoured the surrounding country + in search of game. During this temporary halt the hunters + were more successful than before, having killed two + buffaloes, besides some smaller animals, in one morning. + Again the natural dry fuel of the prairies was called + into requisition, and juicy steak was once more broiling + over the fire. + + With an abundance to eat and a few days' rest, the whole + company revived and were enabled to renew their march + homeward. We were now in the buffalo range, and every day + the hunters were fortunate enough to kill one or more of + the immense animals, thus keeping our larder in excellent + condition, and starvation averted. + + Doubting whether our good fortune in relation to food + would continue for the remainder of our march, and our + money becoming very cumbersome, it was decided by a majority + that at the first good place we came to we would bury it + and risk its being stolen by our enemies. When not more + than half of our journey had been accomplished, we came + to an island in the river to which we waded, and there, + between two large trees, dug a hole and deposited our + treasure. We replaced the sod over the spot, taking the + utmost precaution to conceal every sign of having disturbed + the ground. Though no Indians had been seen for several + days, a sharp lookout was kept in all directions for fear + that some lurking savage might have been watching our + movements. This task finished, with much lighter burdens, + but more anxious than ever, we again took up our march + eastwardly, and, thus relieved, were able to carry a + greater quantity of provisions. + + Having journeyed until we supposed we were within a few + miles of the settlements, some of our number, scarcely able + to travel, thought the best course to pursue would be to + divide the company; one portion to press on, the weaker + ones to proceed by easier stages, and when the advance + arrived at the settlements, they were to send back a relief + for those plodding on wearily behind them. Soon a few + who were stronger than the others reached Independence, + Missouri, and immediately sent a party with horses to + bring in their comrades; so, at last, all got safely to + their homes. + +In the spring of 1829, Major Bennett Riley of the United States army +was ordered with four companies of the Sixth Regular Infantry to +march out on the Trail as the first military escort ever sent for +the protection of the caravans of traders going and returning between +Western Missouri and Santa Fe. Captain Philip St. George Cooke, +of the Dragoons, accompanied the command, and kept a faithful journal +of the trip, from which, and the official report of Major Riley to +the Secretary of War, I have interpolated here copious extracts. + +The journal of Captain Cooke states that the battalion marched +from Fort Leavenworth, which was then called a cantonment, and, +strange to say, had been abandoned by the Third Infantry on account +of its unhealthiness. It was the 5th of June that Riley crossed +the Missouri at the cantonment, and recrossed the river again at +a point a little above Independence, in order to avoid the Kaw, +or Kansas, which had no ferry. + +After five days' marching, the command arrived at Round Grove, where +the caravan had been ordered to rendezvous and wait for the escort. +The number of traders aggregated about seventy-nine men, and their +train consisted of thirty-eight wagons drawn by mules and horses, +the former preponderating. Five days' marching, at an average of +fifteen miles a day, brought them to Council Grove. Leaving the +Grove, in a short time Cow Creek was reached, which at that date +abounded in fish; many of which, says the journal, "weighed several +pounds, and were caught as fast as the line could be handled." +The captain does not describe the variety to which he refers; +probably they were the buffalo--a species of sucker, to be found +to-day in every considerable stream in Kansas. + +Having reached the Upper Valley,[21] bordered by high sand hills, +the journal continues: + + From the tops of the hills, we saw far away, in almost + every direction, mile after mile of prairie, blackened + with buffalo. One morning, when our march was along the + natural meadows by the river, we passed through them for + miles; they opened in front and closed continually in + the rear, preserving a distance scarcely over three hundred + paces. On one occasion, a bull had approached within + two hundred yards without seeing us, until he ascended + the river bank; he stood a moment shaking his head, and + then made a charge at the column. Several officers + stepped out and fired at him, two or three dogs also rushed + to meet him; but right onward he came, snorting blood + from mouth and nostril at every leap, and, with the speed + of a horse and the momentum of a locomotive, dashed + between two wagons, which the frightened oxen nearly upset; + the dogs were at his heels and soon he came to bay, and, + with tail erect, kicked violently for a moment, and then + sank in death--the muscles retaining the dying rigidity + of tension. + +About the middle of July, the command arrived at its destination-- +Chouteau's Island, then on the boundary line between the United States +and New Mexico. + + Our orders were to march no further; and, as a protection + to the trade, it was like the establishment of a ferry + to the mid-channel of a river. + + Up to this time, traders had always used mules or horses. + Our oxen were an experiment, and it succeeded admirably; + they even did better when water was very scarce, which is + an important consideration. + + A few hours after the departure of the trading company, + as we enjoyed a quiet rest on a hot afternoon, we saw + beyond the river a number of horsemen riding furiously + toward our camp. We all flocked out of the tents to hear + the news, for they were soon recognized as traders. + They stated that the caravan had been attacked, about + six miles off in the sand hills, by an innumerable host + of Indians; that some of their companions had been killed; + and they had run, of course, for help. There was not a + moment's hesitation; the word was given, and the tents + vanished as if by magic. The oxen which were grazing + near by were speedily yoked to the wagons, and into the + river we marched. Then I deemed myself the most unlucky + of men; a day or two before, while eating my breakfast, + with my coffee in a tin cup--notorious among chemists and + campaigners for keeping it hot--it was upset into my shoe, + and on pulling off the stocking, it so happened that the + skin came with it. Being thus hors de combat, I sought to + enter the combat on a horse, which was allowed; but I was + put in command of the rear guard to bring up the baggage + train. It grew late, and the wagons crossed slowly; + for the river unluckily took that particular time to + rise fast, and, before all were over, we had to swim it, + and by moonlight. We reached the encampment at one o'clock + at night. All was quiet, and remained so until dawn, + when, at the sound of our bugles, the pickets reported + they saw a number of Indians moving off. On looking + around us, we perceived ourselves and the caravan in the + most unfavorable defenceless situation possible--in the + area of a natural amphitheatre of sand hills, about fifty + feet high, and within gun-shot all around. There was + the narrowest practicable entrance and outlet. + + We ascertained that some mounted traders, in spite of all + remonstrance and command, had ridden on in advance, and + when in the narrow pass beyond this spot, had been suddenly + beset by about fifty Indians; all fled and escaped save one, + who, mounted on a mule, was abandoned by his companions, + overtaken, and slain. The Indians, perhaps, equalled the + traders in number, but notwithstanding their extraordinary + advantage of ground, dared not attack them when they + made a stand among their wagons; and the latter, all well + armed, were afraid to make a single charge, which would + have scattered their enemies like sheep. + + Having buried the poor fellow's body, and killed an ox for + breakfast, we left this sand hollow, which would soon have + been roasting hot, and advancing through the defile--of + which we took care to occupy the commanding ground-- + proceeded to escort the traders at least one day's march + further. + + When the next morning broke clear and cloudless, the command + was confronted by one of those terrible hot winds, still + frequent on the plains. The oxen with lolling tongues + were incapable of going on; the train was halted, and the + suffering animals unyoked, but they stood motionless, + making no attempt to graze. Late that afternoon, the + caravan pushed on for about ten miles, where was the + sandy bed of a dry creek, and fortunately, not far from + the Trail, up the stream, a pool of water and an acre + or two of grass was discovered. On the surface of the + water floated thick the dead bodies of small fish, which + the intense heat of the sun that day had killed. + + Arriving at this point, it was determined to march no + further into the Mexican territory. At the first light + next day we were in motion to return to the river and + the American line, and no further adventure befell us. + +While permanently encamped at Chouteau's Island, which is situated +in the Arkansas River, the term of enlistment of four of the soldiers +of Captain Cooke's command expired, and they were discharged. +In his journal he says: + + Contrary to all advice they determined to return to + Missouri. After having marched several hundred miles + over a prairie country, being often on high hills + commanding a vast prospect, without seeing a human being + or a sign of one, and, save the trail we followed, not + the slightest indication that the country had ever been + visited by man, it was exceedingly difficult to credit + that lurking foes were around us, and spying our motions. + It was so with these men; and being armed, they set out + on the first of August on foot for the settlements. + That same night three of the four returned. They reported + that, after walking about fifteen miles, they were + surrounded by thirty mounted Indians. A wary old soldier + of their number succeeded in extricating them before any + hostile act had been committed; but one of them, highly + elated and pleased at their forbearance, insisted on + returning among them to give them tobacco and shake hands. + In this friendly act he was shot down. The Indians + stripped him in an incredibly short time, and as quickly + dispersed to avoid a shot; and the old soldier, after + cautioning the others to reserve their fire, fired among + them, and probably with some effect. Had the others done + the same, the Indians would have rushed upon them before + they could have reloaded. They managed to make good + their retreat in safety to our camp. + + We were instructed to wait here for the return of the + caravan, which was expected early in October. + Our provisions consisted of salt and half rations of flour, + besides a reserve of fifteen days' full rations--as to the + rest, we were dependent upon hunting. When the buffalo + became scarce, or the grass bad, we marched to other + ground, thus roving up and down the river for eighty + miles. The first thing we did after camping was to dig + and construct, with flour barrels, a well in front of + each company; water was always found at the depth of + from two to four feet varying with the corresponding + height of the river, but clear and cool. Next we would + build sod fire-places; these, with network platforms of + buffalo hide, used for smoking and drying meat, formed a + tolerable additional defence, at least against mounted men. + + Hunting was a military duty, done by detail, parties of + fifteen or twenty going out with a wagon. Completely + isolated, and beyond support or even communication, + in the midst of many thousands of Indians, the utmost + vigilance was maintained. Officer of the guard every + fourth night; I was always awake and generally in motion + the whole time of duty. Night alarms were frequent; when, + as we all slept in our clothes, we were accustomed to + assemble instantly, and with scarcely a word spoken, + take our places in the grass in front of each face of + the camp, where, however wet, we sometimes lay for hours. + + While encamped a few miles below Chouteau's Island, on the + eleventh of August, an alarm was given, and we were under + arms for an hour until daylight. During the morning, + Indians were seen a mile or two off, leading their horses + through the ravines. A captain, however, with eighteen + men was sent across the river after buffalo, which we saw + half a mile distant. In his absence, a large body of + Indians came galloping down the river, as if to charge + the camp, but the cattle were secured in good time. + A company, of which I was lieutenant, was ordered to + cross the river and support the first. We waded in some + disorder through the quicksands and current, and just + as we neared a dry sandbar in the middle, a volley was + fired at us by a band of Indians, who that moment rode + to the water's edge. The balls whistled very near, + but without damage; I felt an involuntary twitch of + the neck, and wishing to return the compliment instantly, + I stooped down, and the company fired over my head, + with what execution was not perceived, as the Indians + immediately retired out of our view. This had passed + in half a minute, and we were astonished to see, a little + above, among some bushes on the same bar, the party we had + been sent to support, and we heard that they had abandoned + one of the hunters, who had been killed. We then saw, + on the bank we had just left, a formidable body of the + enemy in close order, and hoping to surprise them, + we ascended the bed of the river. In crossing the channel + we were up to the arm-pits, but when we emerged on the + bank, we found that the Indians had detected the movement, + and retreated. Casting eyes beyond the river, I saw a + number of the Indians riding on both sides of a wagon + and team which had been deserted, urging the animals + rapidly toward the hills. At this juncture the adjutant + sent an order to cross and recover the body of the slain + hunter, who was an old soldier and a favourite. He was + brought in with an arrow still transfixing his breast, + but his scalp was gone. + + On the fourteenth of October, we again marched on our + return. Soon after, we saw smokes arise over the distant + hills; evidently signals, indicating to different parties + of Indians our separation and march, but whether preparatory + to an attack upon the Mexicans or ourselves, or rather + our immense drove of animals, we could only guess. + + Our march was constantly attended by great collections + of buffalo, which seemed to have a general muster, perhaps + for migration. Sometimes a hundred or two--a fragment + from the multitude--would approach within two or three + hundred yards of the column, and threaten a charge which + would have proved disastrous to the mules and their drivers. + + Under the friendly cover of the shades of evening, on the + eighth of November, our tatterdemalion veterans marched + into Fort Leavenworth, and took quiet possession of the + miserable huts and sheds left by the Third Infantry in + the preceding May. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. +A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. + + + +As early as November, 1842, a rumour was current in Santa Fe, and +along the line of the Trail, that parties of Texans had left the +Republic for the purpose of attacking and robbing the caravans to +the United States which were owned wholly by Mexicans. In consequence +of this, several Americans were accused of being spies and acting +in collusion with the Texans; many were arrested and carried to +Santa Fe, but nothing could be proved against them, and the rumours +of the intended purposes of the Texans died out. + +Very early in May, however, of the following year, 1843, a certain +Colonel Snively did organize a small force, comprising about two +hundred men, which he led from Northern Texas, his home, to the +line of the Trail, with the intention of attacking and robbing the +Mexican caravans which were expected to cross the plains that month +and in June. + +When he arrived at the Arkansas River, he was there reinforced by +another Texan colonel, named Warfield with another small command. +Gregg says: + + This officer, with about twenty men, had some time + previously attacked the village of Mora, on the Mexican + frontier, killing five men, and driving off a number + of horses. They were afterward followed by a party of + Mexicans, however, who stampeded and carried away, not only + their own horses, but those of the Texans. Being left + afoot, the latter burned their saddles, and walked to + Bent's Fort, where they were disbanded; whence Warfield + passed to Snively's camp, as before mentioned. + + The Texans now advanced along the Santa Fe Trail, beyond + the sand hills south of the Arkansas, when they discovered + that a party of Mexicans had passed toward the river. + They soon came upon them, and a skirmish ensuing, eighteen + Mexicans were killed, and as many wounded, five of whom + afterward died. The Texans suffered no injury, though + the Mexicans were a hundred in number. The rest were all + taken prisoners except two, who escaped and bore the news + to General Armijo, who was encamped with a large force + at Cold Spring, one hundred and forty miles beyond. + +Kit Carson figured conspicuously in this fight, or, rather, immediately +afterward. His recital differs somewhat from Gregg's account, +but the stories substantially agree. Kit said that in April, +previously to the assault upon Armijo's caravan, he had hired out +as hunter to Bent's and Colonel St. Vrain's train caravan, which was +then making its annual tour eastwardly. When he arrived at the +crossing of Walnut Creek,[22] he found the encampment of Captain +Philip St. George Cooke, of the United States army, who had been +detailed with his command to escort the caravans to the New Mexican +boundary. His force consisted of four troops of dragoons. +The captain informed Carson that coming on behind him from the States +was a caravan belonging to a very wealthy Mexican. + +It was a richly loaded train, and in order to insure its better +protection while passing through that portion of the country infested +by the blood-thirsty Comanches and Apaches, the majordomo in charge +had hired one hundred Mexicans as a guard. The teamsters and others +belonging to the caravan had heard that a large body of Texans were +lying in wait for them, and intended to murder and plunder them in +retaliation for the way Armijo had treated some Texan prisoners +he had got in his power at Santa Fe some time before. Of course, +it was the duty of the United States troops to escort this caravan +to the New Mexico line, but there their duty would end, as they +had no authority to cross the border. The Mexicans belonging to +the caravan were afraid they would be at the mercy of the Texans +after they had parted company with the soldiers, and when Kit Carson +met them, they, knowing the famous trapper and mountaineer well, +asked him to take a letter to Armijo, who was then governor of +New Mexico, and resided in Santa Fe, for which service they would +give him three hundred dollars in advance. The letter contained +a statement of the fears they entertained, and requested the general +to send Mexican troops at once to meet them. + +Carson, who was then not blessed with much money, eagerly accepted +the task, and immediately started on the trail for Bent's Fort, +in company with another old mountaineer and bosom friend named Owens. +In a short time they arrived at the Fort, where Owens decided not +to go any further, because they were informed by the men at Bent's +that the Utes had broken out, and were scattered along the Trail +at the most dangerous points, and he was fearful that his life +would be endangered if he attempted to make Santa Fe. + +Kit, however, nothing daunted, and determined to do the duty for +which he had been rewarded so munificently, started out alone on +his perilous trip. Mr. Bent kindly furnished him with the best and +fastest horse he had in his stables, but Kit, realizing the dangers +to which he would be exposed, walked, leading his animal, ready to +mount him at a moment's notice; thus keeping him in a condition that +would enable Carson to fly and make his escape if the savages tried +to capture him. His knowledge of the Indian character, and wonderful +alertness in moments of peril, served him well; for he reached the +village of the hostile Indians without their discovering his proximity. +Hiding himself in a rocky, bush-covered canyon, he stayed there until +night came on, when he continued his journey in the darkness. + +He took the trail to Taos, where he arrived in two or three days, +and presented his letter to the alcalde, to be sent on to Santa Fe +by special messenger. + +He was to remain at Taos until an answer from the governor arrived, +and then return with it as rapidly as possible to the train. +While at Taos, he was informed that Armijo had already sent out +a company of one hundred soldiers to meet the caravan, and was to +follow in person, with a thousand more. + +This first hundred were those attacked by Colonel Snively, as related +by Gregg, who says that two survived, who carried the news of the +disaster to Armijo at Cold Spring; but Carson told me that only one +got away, by successfully catching, during the heat of the fight, +a Texan pony already saddled, that was grazing around loose. +With him he made Armijo's camp and related to the Mexican general +the details of the terribly unequal battle. Armijo, upon receipt +of the news, "turned tail," and retreated to Santa Fe. + +Before Armijo left Santa Fe with his command, he had received the +letter which Carson had brought from the caravan, and immediately +sent one in reply for Carson to carry back, thinking that the old +mountaineer might reach the wagons before he did. Carson, with his +usual promptness, started on the Trail for the caravan, and came up +with it while it was escorted by the dragoons, thus saving it from +the fate that the Texans intended for it, as they dared not attempt +any interference in the presence of the United States troops. + +The rumour current in Santa Fe in relation to a probable raid of +parties of Texans along the line of the Trail, for the purpose of +attacking and robbing the caravans of the wealthy Mexican traders, +was received with so little credence by the prominent citizens of +the country, that several native trains left for the Missouri River +without their proprietors having the slightest apprehension that +they would not reach their destination, and make the return trip +in safety. + +Among those who had no fear of marauders was Don Antonio Jose Chavez, +who, in February, 1843, left Santa Fe for Independence with an outfit +consisting of a number of wagons, his private coach, several servants +and other retainers. Don Antonio was a very wealthy Mexican engaged +in a general mercantile business on a large scale in Albuquerque, +who made all his purchases of goods in St. Louis, which was then +the depot of supplies for the whole mountain region. He necessarily +carried with him on these journeys a large amount of money, in silver, +which was the legal currency of the country, and made but one trip +yearly to replenish the stock of goods required in his extensive +trade in all parts of Mexico. + +Upon his arrival at Westport Landing, as Kansas City was then called, +he would take the steamboat for St. Louis, leaving his coach, wagons, +servants, and other appointments of his caravan behind him in the +village of Westport, a few miles from the Landing. + +Westport was at that time, like all steamboat towns in the era of +water navigation, the harbor of as great a lot of ruffians as ever +escaped the gallows. There was especially a noted gang of land pirates, +the members of which had long indulged in speculations regarding the +probable wealth of the Mexican Don, and how much coin he generally +carried with him. They knew that it must be considerable from the +quantity of goods that always came by boat with him from St. Louis. + +At last a devilish plot was arranged to get hold of the rich trader's +money. Nine men were concerned in the robbery, nearly all of whom +were residents of the vicinity of Westport; their leader was one +John McDaniel, recently from Texas, from which government he claimed +to hold a captain's commission, and one of their number was a doctor. +It was evidently the intention of this band to join Warfield's party +on the Arkansas, and engage in a general robbery of the freight +caravans of the Santa Fe Trail belonging to the Mexicans; but they +had determined that Chavez should be their first victim, and in order +to learn when he intended to leave Santa Fe on his next trip east, +they sent their spies out on the great highway. + +They did not dare attempt their contemplated robbery, and murder +if necessary, in the State of Missouri, for there were too many +citizens of the border who would never have permitted such a thing +to go unpunished; so they knew that their only chance was to effect it +in the Indian country of Kansas, where there was little or no law. + +Cow Creek, which debouches into the Arkansas at Hutchinson, where +the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad crosses the historic +little stream,[23] was, like Big and Little Coon creeks, a most +dangerous point in the transcontinental passage of freight caravans +and overland coaches, in the days of the commerce of the prairies. +It was on this purling little prairie brook that McDaniel's band +lay in wait for the arrival of the ill-fated Don Antonio, whose +imposing equipage came along, intending to encamp on the bank, +one of the usual stopping-places on the route. + +The Don was taken a few miles south of the Trail, and his baggage +rifled. All of his party were immediately murdered, but the wealthy +owner of the caravan was spared for a few moments in order to make +a confession of where his money was concealed, after which he was +shot down in cold blood, and his body thrown into a ravine. + +It appears, however, that the ruffians had not completed their +bloody work so effectually as they thought; for one of the Mexican's +teamsters escaped, and, making his way to Leavenworth, reported +the crime, and was soon on his way back to the Trail, guiding a +detachment of United States troops in pursuit of the murderers. + +John Hobbs, scout, trapper, and veteran plainsman, happened to be +hunting buffalo on Pawnee Fork, on the ground where Larned is now +situated, with a party from Bent's Fort. They were just on the point +of crossing the Trail at the mouth of the Pawnee when the soldiers +from Fort Leavenworth came along, and from them Hobbs and his +companions first learned of the murder of Chavez on Cow Creek. +As the men who were out hunting were all familiar with every foot +of the region they were then in, the commanding officer of the troops +induced them to accompany him in his search for the murderers. + +Hobbs and his men cheerfully accepted the invitation, and in about +four days met the band of cut-throats on the broad Trail, they little +dreaming that the government had taken a hand in the matter. +The band tried to escape by flight, but Hobbs shot the doctor's horse +from under him, and a soldier killed another member of the band, +when the remainder surrendered. + +The money, about twelve or fifteen thousand dollars,[24] was all +recovered, and the murderers taken to St. Louis, where some were hung +and some imprisoned, the doctor escaping the death penalty by turning +state's evidence. His sentence was incarceration in the penitentiary, +from which he was pardoned after remaining there two years. +Hobbs met the doctor some years after in San Francisco. He was then +leading an honest life, publishing a newspaper, and begged his captor +not to expose him. + +The money taken from the robbers was placed in charge of Colonel Owens, +a friend of the Chavez family and a leading Santa Fe trader. +He continued on to the river, purchased a stock of goods, and +sent back the caravan to Santa Fe in charge of Doctor Conley of +Boonville, Missouri. + +Arriving at his destination, the widow of the deceased Chavez +employed the good doctor to sell the goods and take the sole +supervision of her immense business interests, and there is a touch +of romance attached to the terrible Kansas tragedy, which lies in +the fact that the doctor in about two years married the rich widow, +and lived very happily for about a decade, dying then on one of the +large estates in New Mexico, which he had acquired by his fortunate +union with the amiable Mexican lady. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. +MEXICO DECLARES WAR. + + + +Mexico declared war against the United States in April, 1846. In the +following May, Congress passed an act authorizing the President to +call into the field fifty thousand volunteers, designed to operate +against Mexico at three distinct points, and consisting of the +Southern Wing, or the Army of Occupation, the Army of the Centre, +and the Army of the West, the latter to direct its march upon the +city of Santa Fe. The original plan was, however, somewhat changed, +and General Kearney, who commanded the Army of the West, divided his +forces into three separate commands. The first he led in person +to the Pacific coast. One thousand volunteers, under command of +Colonel A. W. Doniphan, were to make a descent upon the State of +Chihuahua, while the remainder and greater part of the forces, under +Colonel Sterling Price, were to garrison Santa Fe after its capture. + +There is a pretty fiction told of the breaking out of the war +between Mexico and the United States. Early in the spring of 1846, +before it was known or even conjectured that a state of war would be +declared to exist between this government and Mexico, a caravan +of twenty-nine traders, on their way from Independence to Santa Fe, +beheld, just after a storm and a little before sunset, a perfectly +distinct image of the Bird of Liberty, the American eagle, on the +disc of the sun. When they saw it they simultaneously and almost +involuntarily exclaimed that in less than twelve months the Eagle +of Liberty would spread his broad plumes over the plains of the West, +and that the flag of our country would wave over the cities of +New Mexico and Chihuahua. The student of the classics will remember +that just before the assassination of Julius Caesar, both Brutus +and Cassius, while in their places in the Roman Senate, saw chariots +of fire in the sky. One story is as true, probably, as the other, +though separated by centuries of time. + +The Army of the West, under General Stephen W. Kearney, consisted of +two batteries of artillery, commanded by Major Clark; three squadrons +of the First United States Dragoons, commanded by Major Sumner; +the First Regiment of Missouri Cavalry, commanded by Colonel Doniphan, +and two companies of infantry, commanded by Captain Aubrey. +This force marched in detached columns from Fort Leavenworth, and +on the 1st of August, 1846, concentrated in camp on the Santa Fe +Trail, nine miles below Bent's Fort. + +Accompanying the expedition was a party of the United States +topographical engineers, under command of Lieutenant W. H. Emory.[25] +In writing of this expedition, so far as its march relates to the +Old Santa Fe Trail, I shall quote freely from Emory's report and +Doniphan's historian.[26] + +The practicability of marching a large army over the waste, +uncultivated, uninhabited prairie regions of the West was universally +regarded as problematical, but the expedition proved completely +successful. Provisions were conveyed in wagons, and beef-cattle +driven along for the use of the men. These animals subsisted +entirely by grazing. To secure them from straying off at night, +they were driven into corrals formed of the wagons, or tethered to +an iron picket-pin driven into the ground about fifteen inches. +At the outset of the expedition many laughable scenes took place. +Our horses were generally wild, fiery, and unused to military +trappings and equipments. Amidst the fluttering of banners, +the sounding of bugles, the rattling of artillery, the clattering +of sabres and also of cooking utensils, some of them took fright +and scampered pell-mell over the wide prairie. Rider, arms and +accoutrements, saddles, saddle-bags, tin cups, and coffee-pots, +were frequently left far behind in the chase. No very serious or +fatal accident, however, occurred from this cause, and all was +right as soon as the affrighted animals were recovered. + +The Army of the West was, perhaps, composed of as fine material as +any other body of troops then in the field. The volunteer corps +consisted almost entirely of young men of the country. + +On the 9th of July, a separate detachment of the troops arrived at +the Little Arkansas, where the Santa Fe Trail crosses that stream-- +now in McPherson County, Kansas. The mosquitoes, gnats, and black +flies swarmed in that locality and nearly drove the men and animals +frantic. While resting there, a courier came from the commands +of General Kearney and Colonel Doniphan, stating that their men +were in a starving condition, and asking for such provisions as +could be spared. Lieutenant-Colonel Ruff of Doniphan's regiment, +in command of the troops now camped on the Little Arkansas, was +almost destitute himself. He had sent couriers forward to Pawnee Fork +to stop a train of provisions at that point and have it wait there +until he came up with his force, and he now directed the courier from +Kearney to proceed to the same place and halt as many wagons loaded +with supplies, as would suffice to furnish the three detachments +with rations. One of the couriers, in attempting to ford the fork +of the Pawnee, which was bank-full, was drowned. His body was found +and given a military funeral; he was the first man lost on the +expedition after it had reached the great plains, one having been +drowned in the Missouri, at Fort Leavenworth, before the troops left. + +The author of _Doniphan's Expedition_ says: + In approaching the Arkansas, a landscape of the most + imposing and picturesque nature makes its appearance. + While the green, glossy undulations of the prairie to + the right seem to spread out in infinite succession, + like waves subsiding after a storm, and covered with + herds of gambolling buffalo, on the left, towering to + the height of seventy-five to a hundred feet, rise the + sun-gilt summits of the sand hills, along the base of + which winds the broad, majestic river, bespeckled with + verdant islets, thickly beset with cottonwood timber, + the sand hills resembling heaps of driven snow. +I refer to this statement to show how wonderfully the settlement +of the region has changed the physical aspect of that portion +bordering the Arkansas River. Now those sand hills are covered +with verdure, and this metamorphosis has taken place within the +last thirty years; for the author of this work well remembers how +the great sand dunes used to shine in the sunlight, when he first +saw them a third of a century ago. In coming from Fort Leavenworth +up the Smoky Hill route to the Santa Fe Trail, where the former +joined the latter at Pawnee Rock, the contour of the Arkansas +could be easily traced by the white sand hills referred to, +long before it was reached. + +On the 15th of July the combined forces formed a junction at +Pawnee Fork, now within the city limits of Larned, Kansas. The river +was impassable, but General Kearney, with the characteristic energy +of his family, determined not to be delayed, and to that end caused +great trees to be cut down and their trunks thrown across the stream, +over which the army passed, carrying in their arms the sick, the +baggage, tents, and other paraphernalia; the animals being forced +to swim. The empty bodies of the wagons, fastened to their running +gear, were floated across by means of ropes, and hauled up the +slippery bank by the troops. This required two whole days; and on +the morning of the 17th, not an accident having occurred, the entire +column was en route again, the infantry, as is declared in the +official reports, keeping pace with the cavalry right along. +Their feet, however, became terribly blistered, and, like the +Continentals at Valley Forge, their tracks were marked with blood. + +In a day or two after the command had left Pawnee Fork, while camping +in a beautiful spot on the bank of the Arkansas, an officer, Major +Howard, who had been sent forward to Santa Fe some time previously +by the general to learn something of the feeling of the people +in relation to submitting to the government of the United States, +returned and reported + + that the common people, or plebeians, were inclined to + favour the conditions of peace proposed by General Kearney; + viz. that if they would lay down their arms and take the + oath of allegiance to the government of the United States, + they should, to all intents and purposes, become citizens + of the same republic, receiving the protection and enjoying + the liberties guaranteed to other American citizens; but + that the patricians who held the offices and ruled the + country were hostile, and were making warlike preparations. + He added, further, that two thousand three hundred men + were already armed for the defence of the capital, and + that others were assembling at Taos. +This intelligence created quite a sensation in camp, and it was +believed, and earnestly hoped, that the entrance of the troops +into Santa Fe would be desperately opposed; such is the pugnacious +character of the average American the moment he dons the uniform +of a soldier. + +The army arrived at the Cimarron crossing of the Arkansas on the 20th, +and during the march of nearly thirty miles from their last camp, +a herd of about four hundred buffalo suddenly emerged from the +Arkansas, and broke through the long column. In an instant the +troops charged upon the surprised animals with guns, pistols, and +even drawn sabres, and many of the huge beasts were slaughtered +as they went dashing and thundering among the excited troopers and +infantrymen. + +On the 29th an express from Bent's Fort brought news to General +Kearney from Santa Fe that Governor Armijo had called the chief men +together to deliberate on the best means of defending the city; +that hostile preparations were rapidly going on in all parts of +New Mexico; and that the American advance would be vigorously opposed. +Some Mexican prisoners were taken near Bent's Fort, with blank letters +on their persons addressed to the general; it was supposed this piece +of ingenuity was resorted to to deceive the American residents at +the fort. These men were thought to be spies sent out from Santa Fe +to get an idea of the strength of the army; so they were shown +everything in and around camp, and then allowed to depart in peace +for Santa Fe, to report what they had seen. + +On the same date, the Army of the West crossed the Arkansas and camped +on Mexican soil about eight miles below Bent's Fort, and now the +utmost vigilance was exercised; for the troops had not only to keep +a sharp lookout for the Mexicans, but for the wily Comanches, in whose +country their camp was located. Strong picket and camp guards were +posted, and the animals turned loose to graze, guarded by a large +force. Notwithstanding the care taken to confine them within certain +limits, a pack of wolves rushed through the herd, and in an instant +it was stampeded, and there ensued a scene of the wildest confusion. +More than a thousand horses were dashing madly over the prairie, +their rage and fright increased at every jump by the lariats and +picket-pins which they had pulled up, and which lashed them like +so many whips. After desperate exertions by the troops, the majority +were recovered from thirty to fifty miles distant; nearly a hundred, +however, were absolutely lost and never seen again. + +At this camp the troops were visited by the war chief of the Arapahoes, +who manifested great surprise at the big guns, and declared that +the Mexicans would not stand a moment before such terrible instruments +of death, but would escape to the mountains with the utmost despatch. + +On the 1st of August a new camp near Bent's Fort was established, +from whence twenty men under Lieutenant de Courcy, with orders to +proceed through the mountains to the valley of Taos, to learn +something of the disposition and intentions of the people, and to +rejoin General Kearney on the road to Santa Fe. Lieutenant de Courcy, +in his official itinerary, relates the following anecdote: + We took three pack-mules laden with provisions, and as + we did not expect to be long absent, the men took no extra + clothing. Three days after we left the column our mules + fell down, and neither gentle means nor the points of our + sabres had the least effect in inducing them to rise. + Their term of service with Uncle Sam was out. "What's to + be done?" said the sergeant. "Dismount!" said I. + "Off with your shirts and drawers, men! tie up the sleeves + and legs, and each man bag one-twentieth part of the flour!" + Having done this, the bacon was distributed to the men also, + and tied to the cruppers of their saddles. Thus loaded, + we pushed on, without the slightest fear of our provision + train being cut off. + + The march upon Santa Fe was resumed on the 2d of August. + As we passed Bent's Fort the American flag was raised, + in compliment to our troops, and, like our own, streamed + most animatingly in the gale that swept from the desert, + while the tops of the houses were crowded with Mexican girls + and Indian squaws, intently beholding the American army. + +On the 15th of the month, the army neared Las Vegas; when two spies +who had been sent on in advance to see how matters stood returned +and reported that two thousand Mexicans were camped at the pass +a few miles beyond the village, where they intended to offer battle. + +Upon receipt of this news, the general immediately formed a line +of battle. The United States dragoons with the St. Louis mounted +volunteers were stationed in front, Major Clark with the battalion +of volunteer light artillery in the centre, and Colonel Doniphan's +regiment in the rear. The companies of volunteer infantry were +deployed on each side of the line of march as flankers. The supply +trains were next in order, with Captain Walton's mounted company +as rear guard. There was also a strong advance guard. The cartridges +were hastily distributed; the cannon swabbed and rigged; the +port-fires burning, and every rifle loaded. + +In passing through the streets of the curious-looking village of +Las Vegas, the army was halted, and from the roof of a large house +General Kearney administered to the chief officers of the place +the oath of allegiance to the United States, using the sacred cross +instead of the Bible. This act completed, on marched the exultant +troops toward the canyon where it had been promised them that they +should meet the enemy. + +On the night of the 16th, while encamped on the Pecos River, near +the village of San Jose, the pickets captured a son of the Mexican +General Salezar, who was acting the rôle of a spy, and two other +soldiers of the Mexican army. Salezar was kept a close prisoner; +but the two privates were by order of General Kearney escorted +through the camp and shown the cannon, after which they were allowed +to depart, so that they might tell what they had seen. It was +learned afterward that they represented the American army as composed +of five thousand troops, and possessing so many cannons that they +were not able to count them. + +When Armijo was certain that the Army of the West was really +approaching Santa Fe, he assembled seven thousand troops, part of them +well armed, and the remainder indifferently so. The Mexican general +had written a note to General Kearney the day before the capture +of the spies, saying that he would meet him on the following day. + +General Kearney, at this, hastened on, arriving at the mouth of +the Apache canyon at noon, with his whole force ready and anxious +to try the mettle of the Mexicans in battle. Emory in his +_Reconnoissance_ says: + + The sun shone with dazzling brightness; the guidons and + colours of each squadron, regiment, and battalion were + for the first time unfurled. The drooping horses seemed + to take courage from the gay array. The trumpeters + sounded "to horse" with spirit, and the hills multiplied + and re-echoed the call. All wore the aspect of a gala day. + About the middle of the day's march the two Pueblo Indians, + previously sent to sound the chief men of that formidable + tribe, were seen in the distance, at full speed, with arms + and legs both thumping the sides of their mules at every + stride. Something was now surely in the wind. The smaller + and foremost of the two dashed up to the general, his face + radiant with joy, and exclaimed: + + "They are in the canyon, my brave; pluck up your courage + and push them out." As soon as his extravagant delight at + the prospect of a fight, and the pleasure of communicating + the news, had subsided, he gave a pretty accurate idea + of Armijo's force and position. + + Shortly afterwards a rumour reached the camp that the + two thousand Mexicans assembled in the canyon to oppose us, + have quarrelled among themselves; and that Armijo, taking + advantage of the dissensions, has fled with his dragoons + and artillery to the south. It is well known that he has + been averse to a battle, but some of his people threatened + his life if he refused to fight. He had been, for some + days, more in fear of his own people than of the American + army, having seen what they are blind to--the hopelessness + of resistance. + + As we approached the ancient town of Pecos, a large fat + fellow, mounted on a mule, came toward us at full speed, + and, extending his hand to the general, congratulated him + on the arrival of himself and army. He said with a roar + of laughter, "Armijo and his troops have gone to h---ll, + and the canyon is all clear." + +On reaching the canyon, it was found to be true that the Mexican +troops had dispersed and fled to the mountains, just as the old +Arapahoe chief had said they would. There, however, they commenced +to fortify, by chopping away the timber so that their artillery +could play to better advantage upon the American lines, and by +throwing up temporary breastworks. It was ascertained afterward, +on undoubted authority, that Armijo had an army of nearly seven +thousand Mexicans, with six pieces of artillery, and the advantage +of ground, yet he allowed General Kearney, with a force of less than +two thousand, to march through the almost impregnable gorge, and on +to the capital of the Province, without any attempt to oppose him. + +Thus was New Mexico conquered with but little loss relatively. +For the further details of the movements of the Army of the West, +the reader is referred to general history, as this book, necessarily, +treats only of that portion of its march and the incidents connected +with it while travelling the Santa Fe Trail. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. +THE VALLEY OF TAOS. + + + +The principal settlement in New Mexico, immediately after it was +reconquered from the Indians by the Spaniards, was, of course, +Santa Fe, and ranking second to it, that of the beautiful Valle de Taos, +which derived its name from the Taosa Indians, a few of whose direct +descendants are still occupying a portion of the region. As the +pioneers in the trade with Santa Fe made their first journeys to +the capital of the Province by the circuitous route of the Taos +valley, and the initial consignments of goods from the Missouri +were disposed of in the little villages scattered along the road, +the story of the Trail would be deficient in its integrity were the +thrilling historical facts connected with the romantic region omitted. + +The reader will find on all maps, from the earliest published to the +latest issued by the local railroads, a town with the name of Taos, +which never had an existence. Fernandez de Taos is the chief city, +which has been known so long by the title of the valley that perhaps +the misnomer is excusable after many years' use. + +Fernandez, or Taos as it is called, was once famous for its +distilleries of whiskey, made out of the native wheat, a raw, fiery +spirit, always known in the days of the Santa Fe trade as "Taos +lightning," which was the most profitable article of barter with +the Indians, who exchanged their buffalo robes and other valuable +furs for a supply of it, at a tremendous sacrifice. + +According to the statement of Gregg, the first white settler of the +fertile and picturesque valley was a Spaniard named Pando, who +established himself there about 1745. This primitive pioneer of +the northern part of the Province was constantly exposed to the raids +of the powerful Comanches, but succeeded in creating a temporary +friendship with the tribe by promising his daughter, then a young +and beautiful infant, to the chief in marriage when she arrived +at a suitable age. At the time for the ratification of her father's +covenant with the Indians, however, the maiden stubbornly refused +to fulfil her part. The savages, enraged at the broken faith of +the Spaniard, immediately swept down upon the little settlement and +murdered everybody there except the betrothed girl, whom they +carried off into captivity. She was forced to live with the chief +as his wife, but he soon became tired of her and traded her for +another woman with the Pawnees, who, in turn, sold her to a Frenchman, +a resident of St. Louis. It is said that some of the most respectable +families of that city are descended from her, and fifty years ago +there were many people living who remembered the old lady, and her +pathetic story of trials and sufferings when with the Indians. + +The most tragic event in the history of the valley was the massacre +of the provisional governor of the Territory of New Mexico, with +a number of other Americans, shortly after its occupation by the +United States. + +Upon General Kearney's taking possession of Santa Fe, acting under +the authority of the President, he established a civil government +and put it into operation. Charles Bent was appointed governor, +and the other offices filled by Americans and Mexicans who were +rigidly loyal to the political change. At this time the command +of the troops devolved upon Colonel Sterling Price, Colonel Doniphan, +who ranked him, having departed from Santa Fe on an expedition +against the Navajoes. Notwithstanding the apparent submission of +the natives of New Mexico, there were many malcontents among them +and the Pueblo Indians, and early in December, some of the leaders, +dissatisfied with the change in the order of things, held secret +meetings and formulated plots to overthrow the existing government. + +Midnight of the 24th of December was the time appointed for the +commencement of their revolutionary work, which was to be simultaneous +all over the country. The profoundest secrecy was to be preserved, +and the most influential men, whose ambition induced them to seek +preferment, were alone to be made acquainted with the plot. No woman +was to be privy to it, lest it should be divulged. The sound of +the church bell was to be the signal, and at midnight all were to +enter the Plaza at the same moment, seize the pieces of artillery, +and point them into the streets. + +The time chosen for the assault was Christmas-eve, when the soldiers +and garrison would be indulging in wine and feasting, and scattered +about through the city at the fandangoes, not having their arms in +their hands. All the Americans, without distinction, throughout +the State, and such New Mexicans as had favoured the American +government and accepted office by appointment of General Kearney, +were to be massacred or driven from the country, and the conspirators +were to seize upon and occupy the government. + +The conspiracy was detected in the following manner: a mulatto girl, +residing in Santa Fe, had married one of the conspirators, and had by +degrees obtained a knowledge of their movements and secret meetings. +To prevent the effusion of blood, which would inevitably be the result +of a revolution, she communicated to Colonel Price all the facts +of which she was in possession, and warned him to use the utmost +vigilance. The rebellion was immediately suppressed, but the +restless and unsatisfied ambition of the leaders of the conspiracy +did not long permit them to remain inactive. A second and still more +dangerous conspiracy was formed. The most powerful and influential +men in the State favoured the design, and even the officers of State +and the priests gave their aid and counsel. The people everywhere, +in the towns, villages, and settlements, were exhorted to arm and +equip themselves; to strike for their faith, their religion, and +their altars; and drive the "heretics," the "unjust invaders of +the country," from their soil, and with fire and sword pursue them +to annihilation. On the 18th of January this rebellion broke out +in every part of the State simultaneously. + +On the 14th of January, Governor Bent, believing the conspiracy +completely crushed, with an escort of five persons--among whom were +the sheriff and circuit attorney--had left Santa Fe to visit his +family, who resided at Fernandez. + +On the 19th, he was early roused from sleep by the populace, who, +with the aid of the Pueblos of Taos, were collected in front of his +dwelling striving to gain admittance. While they were effecting +an entrance, he, with an axe, cut through an adobe wall into another +house; and the Mexican wife of the occupant, a clever though shiftless +Canadian, hearing him, with all her strength rendered him assistance. +He retreated to a room, but, seeing no way of escaping from the +infuriated assailants, who fired upon him from a window, he spoke +to his weeping wife and trembling children, and, taking paper +from his pocket, endeavoured to write; but fast losing strength, +he commended them to God and his brothers and fell, pierced by a +ball from a Pueblo. Then rushing in and tearing off his gray-haired +scalp, the Indians bore it away in triumph. + +The circuit attorney, T. W. Leal, was scalped alive and dragged +through the streets, his relentless persecutors pricking him with +lances. After hours of suffering, they threw him aside in the +inclement weather, he imploring them earnestly to kill him to end +his misery. A compassionate Mexican at last closed the tragic scene +by shooting him. Stephen Lee, brother to the general, was killed +on his own housetop. Narcisse Beaubien, son of the presiding judge +of the district, hid in an outhouse with his Indian slave, at the +commencement of the massacre, under a straw-covered trough. +The insurgents on the search, thinking that they had escaped, +were leaving, but a woman servant of the family, going to the +housetop, called to them, "Kill the young ones, and they will never +be men to trouble us." They swarmed back and, by cruelly putting +to death and scalping him and his slave, added two more to the list +of unfortunate victims. + +The Pueblos and Mexicans, after their cruelties at Fernandez de Taos, +attacked and destroyed Turley's Ranch on the Arroyo Hondo[27] twelve +miles from Fernandez, or Taos. Arroyo Hondo runs along the base +of a ridge of a mountain of moderate elevation, which divides the +valley of Taos from that of the Rio Colorado, or Red River, both +flowing into the Del Norte. The trail from one place to the other +passes over the mountain, which is covered with pine, cedar, and +a species of dwarf oak; and numerous little streams run through +the many canyons. + +On the bank of one of the creeks was a mill and distillery belonging +to an American named Turley, who did a thriving business. He possessed +herds of goats, and hogs innumerable; his barns were filled with +grain, his mill with flour, and his cellars with whiskey. He had +a Mexican wife and several children, and he bore the reputation of +being one of the most generous and kind-hearted of men. In times of +scarcity, no one ever sought his aid to be turned away empty-handed; +his granaries were always open to the hungry, and his purse to +the poor. + +When on their road to Turley's, the Pueblos murdered two men, named +Harwood and Markhead. Markhead was one of the most successful +trappers and daring men among the old mountaineers. They were on +their way to Taos with their pack-animals laden with furs, when the +savages, meeting them, after stripping them of their goods, and +securing their arms by treachery, made them mount their mules under +pretence of conducting them to Taos, where they were to be given up +to the leaders of the insurrection. They had hardly proceeded +a mile when a Mexican rode up behind Harwood and discharged his gun +into his back; he called out to Markhead that he was murdered, and +fell to the ground dead. + +Markhead, seeing that his own fate was sealed, made no struggle, +and was likewise shot in the back with several bullets. Both men +were then stripped naked, scalped, and horribly mutilated; their +bodies thrown into the brush to be devoured by the wolves. + +These trappers were remarkable men; Markhead, particularly, was +celebrated in the mountains for his courage, reckless daring, and +many almost miraculous escapes when in the very hands of the Indians. +When some years previously he had accompanied Sir William Drummond +Stewart on one of his expeditions across the Rockies, it happened +that a half-breed Indian employed by Sir William absconded one night +with some animals, which circumstance annoyed the nobleman so much, +as it disturbed all his plans, that he hastily offered, never dreaming +that he would be taken up, to give five hundred dollars for the scalp +of the thief. The very next evening Markhead rode into camp with the +hair of the luckless horse-thief dangling at the muzzle of his rifle. + +The wild crowd of rebels rode on to Turley's mill. Turley had been +warned of the impending uprising, but had treated the report with +indifference, until one morning a man in his employ, who had been +despatched to Santa Fe with several mule-loads of whiskey a few days +before, made his appearance at the gate on horseback, and hastily +informing the inmates of the mill that the New Mexicans had risen and +massacred Governor Bent and other Americans, galloped off. Even then +Turley felt assured that he would not be molested; but at the +solicitation of his men, he agreed to close the gate of the yard +around which were the buildings of the mill and distillery, and make +preparations for defence. + +A few hours afterward a large crowd of Mexicans and Pueblo Indians +made their appearance, all armed with guns and bows and arrows, and, +advancing with a white flag, summoned Turley to surrender his house +and the Americans in it, guaranteeing that his own life should be +saved, but that every other American in the valley must be destroyed; +that the governor and all the Americans at Fernandez had been killed, +and that not one was to be left alive in all New Mexico. + +To this summons Turley answered that he would never surrender his +house nor his men, and that if they wanted it or them, they must +take them. + +The enemy then drew off, and, after a short consultation, commenced +the attack. The first day they numbered about five hundred, but were +hourly reinforced by the arrival of parties of Indians from the more +distant Pueblos, and New Mexicans from Fernandez, La Canada, and +other places. + +The building lay at the foot of a gradual slope in the sierra, which +was covered with cedar bushes. In front ran the stream of the +Arroyo Hondo, about twenty yards from one side of the square, and +the other side was broken ground which rose abruptly and formed +the bank of the ravine. In the rear and behind the still-house was +some garden ground enclosed by a small fence, into which a small +wicket-gate opened from the corral. + +As soon as the attack was determined upon, the assailants scattered +and concealed themselves under cover of the rocks and bushes which +surrounded the house. From these they kept up an incessant fire upon +every exposed portion of the building where they saw preparations +for defence. + +The Americans, on their part, were not idle; not a man but was an old +mountaineer, and each had his trusty rifle, with a good store of +ammunition. Whenever one of the besiegers exposed a hand's-breadth +of his person, a ball from an unerring barrel whistled. The windows +had been blockaded, loopholes having been left, and through these +a lively fire was maintained. Already several of the enemy had +bitten the dust, and parties were seen bearing off the wounded up +the banks of the Canada. Darkness came on, and during the night +a continual fire was kept up on the mill, whilst its defenders, +reserving their ammunition, kept their posts with stern and silent +determination. The night was spent in casting balls, cutting patches, +and completing the defences of the building. In the morning the fight +was renewed, and it was found that the Mexicans had effected a +lodgment in a part of the stables, which were separated from the +other portions of the building by an open space of a few feet. +The assailants, during the night, had sought to break down the wall, +and thus enter the main building, but the strength of the adobe and +logs of which it was composed resisted effectually all their attempts. + +Those in the stable seemed anxious to regain the outside, for their +position was unavailable as a means of annoyance to the besieged, and +several had darted across the narrow space which divided it from the +other part of the building, which slightly projected, and behind +which they were out of the line of fire. As soon, however, as the +attention of the defenders was called to this point, the first man +who attempted to cross, who happened to be a Pueblo chief, was dropped +on the instant, and fell dead in the centre of the intervening space. +It appeared to be an object to recover the body, for an Indian +immediately dashed out to the fallen chief, and attempted to drag him +within the shelter of the wall. The rifle which covered the spot +again poured forth its deadly contents, and the Indian, springing +into the air, fell over the body of his chief. Another and another +met with a similar fate, and at last three rushed to the spot, and, +seizing the body by the legs and head, had already lifted it from the +ground, when three puffs of smoke blew from the barricaded windows, +followed by the sharp cracks of as many rifles, and the three daring +Indians were added to the pile of corpses which now covered the body +of the dead chief. + +As yet the besieged had met with no casualties; but after the fall +of the seven Indians, the whole body of the assailants, with a shout +of rage, poured in a rattling volley, and two of the defenders fell +mortally wounded. One, shot through the loins, suffered great agony, +and was removed to the still-house, where he was laid on a large +pile of grain, as being the softest bed that could be found. + +In the middle of the day the attack was renewed more fiercely than +before. The little garrison bravely stood to the defence of the mill, +never throwing away a shot, but firing coolly, and only when a fair +mark was presented to their unerring aim. Their ammunition, however, +was fast failing, and to add to the danger of their situation, +the enemy set fire to the mill, which blazed fiercely, and threatened +destruction to the whole building. Twice they succeeded in overcoming +the flames, and, while they were thus occupied, the Mexicans and +Indians charged into the corral, which was full of hogs and sheep, +and vented their cowardly rage upon the animals, spearing and shooting +all that came in their way. No sooner were the flames extinguished +in one place than they broke out more fiercely in another; and +as a successful defence was perfectly hopeless, and the numbers of +the assailants increased every moment, a council of war was held by +the survivors of the little garrison, when it was determined, +as soon as night approached, that every one should attempt to escape +as best he could. + +Just at dusk a man named John Albert and another ran to the +wicket-gate which opened into a kind of enclosed space, in which were +a number of armed Mexicans. They both rushed out at the same moment, +discharging their rifles full in the face of the crowd. Albert, +in the confusion, threw himself under the fence, whence he saw his +companion shot down immediately, and heard his cries for mercy as +the cowards pierced him with knives and lances. He lay without motion +under the fence, and as soon as it was quite dark he crept over +the logs and ran up the mountain, travelled by day and night, and, +scarcely stopping or resting, reached the Greenhorn, almost dead +with hunger and fatigue. Turley himself succeeded in escaping from +the mill and in reaching the mountain unseen. Here he met a Mexican +mounted on a horse, who had been a most intimate friend of his for +many years. To this man Turley offered his watch for the use of the +horse, which was ten times more than it was worth, but was refused. +The inhuman wretch, however, affected pity and consideration for the +fugitive, and advised him to go to a certain place, where he would +bring or send him assistance; but on reaching the mill, which was +a mass of fire, he immediately informed the Mexicans of Turley's +place of concealment, whither a large party instantly proceeded and +shot him to death. + +Two others escaped and reached Santa Fe in safety. The mill and +Turley's house were sacked and gutted, and all his hard-earned savings, +which were concealed in gold about the house, were discovered, and, +of course, seized upon by the victorious Mexicans. + +The following account is taken from Governor Prince's chapter on the +fight at Taos, in his excellent and authentic _History of New Mexico_:-- + + The startling news of the assassination of the governor was + swiftly carried to Santa Fe, and reached Colonel Price the + next day. Simultaneously, letters were discovered calling + on the people of the Rio Abajo to secure Albuquerque and + march northward to aid the other insurgents; and news + speedily followed that a united Mexican and Pueblo force of + large magnitude was marching down the Rio Grande valley + toward the capital, flushed with the success of the revolt + at Taos. Very few troops were in Santa Fe; in fact, the + number remaining in the whole territory was very small, + and these were scattered at Albuquerque, Las Vegas, and + other distant points. At the first-named town were Major + Edmonson and Captain Burgwin; the former in command of the + town, and the latter with a company of the First Dragoons. + + Colonel Price lost no time in taking such measures as his + limited resources permitted. Edmonson was directed to come + immediately to Santa Fe to take command of the capital; and + Burgwin to follow Price as fast as possible to the scene + of hostilities. The colonel himself collected the few + troops at Santa Fe, which were all on foot, but fortunately + included the little battalion which under Captain Aubrey + had made such extraordinary marches on the journey across + the plains as to almost outwalk the cavalry. With these + was a volunteer company formed of nearly all of the American + inhabitants of the city, under the command of Colonel Ceran + St. Vrain, who happened to be in Santa Fe, together with + Judge Beaubien, at the time of the rising at Taos. + With this little force, amounting in all to three hundred + and ten men, Colonel Price started to march to Taos, or at + all events to meet the army which was coming toward the + capital from the north and which grew as it marched by + constant accessions from the surrounding country. + The city of Santa Fe was left in charge of a garrison under + Lieutenant-Colonel Willock. While the force was small + and the volunteers without experience in regular warfare, + yet all were nerved to desperation by the belief, since + the Taos murders, that the only alternative was victory + or annihilation. + + The expedition set out on January 23d, and the next day + the Mexican army, under command of General Montoya as + commander-in-chief, aided by Generals Tafoya and Chavez, + was found occupying the heights commanding the road near + La Canada (Santa Cruz), with detachments in some strong + adobe houses near the river banks. The advance had been + seen shortly before at the rocky pass, on the road from + Pojuaque; and near there and before reaching the river, the + San Juan Pueblo Indians, who had joined the revolutionists + reluctantly and under a kind of compulsion, surrendered and + were disarmed by removing the locks from their guns. + On arriving at the Canada, Price ordered his howitzers to + the front and opened fire; and after a sharp cannonade, + directed an assault on the nearest houses by Aubrey's + battalion. Meanwhile an attempt by a Mexican detachment + to cut off the American baggage-wagons, which had not yet + come up, was frustrated by the activity of St. Vrain's + volunteers. A charge all along the line was then ordered + and handsomely executed; the houses, which, being of adobe, + had been practically so many ready-made forts, were + successively carried, and St. Vrain started in advance to + gain the Mexican rear. Seeing this manoeuvre, and fearing + its effects, the Mexicans retreated, leaving thirty-six + dead on the field. Among those killed was General Tafoya, + who bravely remained on the field after the remainder had + abandoned it, and was shot. + + Colonel Price pressed on up the river as fast as possible, + passing San Juan, and at Los Luceros, on the 28th, his + little army was rejoiced at the arrival of reinforcements, + consisting of a mounted company of cavalry, Captain Burgwin's + company, which had been pushed up by forced marches on foot + from Albuquerque, and a six-pounder brought by Lieutenant + Wilson. Thus enlarged, the American force consisted of + four hundred and eighty men, and continued its advance up + the valley to La Joya, which was as far as the river road at + that time extended. Meanwhile the Mexicans had established + themselves in a narrow pass near Embudo, where the forest + was dense, and the road impracticable for wagons or cannon, + the troops occupying the sides of the mountains on both + sides of the canyon. Burgwin was sent with three companies + to dislodge them and open a passage--no easy task. + But St. Vrain's company took the west slope, and another + the right, while Burgwin himself marched through the gorge + between. The sharp-shooting of these troops did such + terrible execution that the pass was soon cleared, though + not without the display of great heroism, and some loss; + and the Americans entered Embudo without further opposition. + The difficulties of this campaign were greatly increased by + the severity of the weather, the mountains being thickly + covered with snow, and the cold so intense that a number + of men were frost-bitten and disabled. The next day Burgwin + reached Las Trampas, where Price arrived with the remainder + of the American army on the last day of January, and all + together they marched into Chamisal. + + Notwithstanding the cold and snow they pressed on over the + mountain, and on the 3d of February reached the town of + Fernandez de Taos, only to find that the Mexican and Pueblo + force had fortified itself in the celebrated Pueblo of Taos, + about three miles distant. That force had diminished + considerably during the retreat from La Canada, many of the + Mexicans returning to their homes, and its greater part + now consisting of Pueblo Indians. The American troops were + worn out with fatigue and exposure, and in most urgent need + of rest; but their intrepid commander, desiring to give his + opponents no more time to strengthen their works, and full + of zeal and energy, if not of prudence, determined to + commence an immediate attack. + + The two great buildings at this Pueblo, certainly the most + interesting and extraordinary inhabited structures in + America, are well known from descriptions and engravings. + They are five stories high and irregularly pyramidal in + shape, each story being smaller than the one below, in order + to allow ingress to the outer rooms of each tier from the + roofs. Before the advent of artillery these buildings were + practically impregnable, as, when the exterior ladders were + drawn up, there were no means of ingress, the side walls + being solid without openings, and of immense thickness. + Between these great buildings, each of which can accommodate + a multitude of men, runs the clear water of the Taos Creek; + and to the west of the northerly building stood the old + church, with walls of adobe from three to seven and a half + feet in thickness. Outside of all, and having its northwest + corner just beyond the church, ran an adobe wall, built for + protection against hostile Indians and which now answered + for an outer earthwork. The church was turned into a + fortification, and was the point where the insurgents + concentrated their strength; and against this Colonel Price + directed his principal attack. The six-pounder and the + howitzer were brought into position without delay, under + the command of Lieutenant Dyer, then a young graduate of + West Point, and since then chief of ordnance of the + United States army, and opened a fire on the thick adobe + walls. But cannon-balls made little impression on the + massive banks of earth, in which they embedded themselves + without doing damage; and after a fire of two hours, + the battery was withdrawn, and the troops allowed to return + to the town of Taos for their much-needed rest. + + Early the next morning, the troops, now refreshed and ready + for the combat, advanced again to the Pueblo, but found + those within equally prepared. The story of the attack and + capture of this place is so interesting, both on account + of the meeting here of old and new systems of warfare--of + modern artillery with an aboriginal stronghold--and because + the precise localities can be distinguished by the modern + tourist from the description, that it seems best to insert + the official report as presented by Colonel Price. + Nothing could show more plainly how superior strong + earthworks are to many more ambitious structures of defence, + or more forcibly display the courage and heroism of those + who took part in the battle, or the signal bravery of the + accomplished Captain Burgwin which led to his untimely death. + Colonel Price writes: + + "Posting the dragoons under Captain Burgwin about two + hundred and sixty yards from the western flank of the church, + I ordered the mounted men under Captains St. Vrain and Slack + to a position on the opposite side of the town, whence they + could discover and intercept any fugitives who might attempt + to escape toward the mountains, or in the direction of + San Fernando. The residue of the troops took ground about + three hundred yards from the north wall. Here, too, + Lieutenant Dyer established himself with the six-pounder + and two howitzers, while Lieutenant Hassendaubel, of Major + Clark's battalion, light artillery, remained with Captain + Burgwin, in command of two howitzers. By this arrangement + a cross-fire was obtained, sweeping the front and eastern + flank of the church. All these arrangements being made, + the batteries opened upon the town at nine o'clock A.M. + At eleven o'clock, finding it impossible to breach the + walls of the church with the six-pounder and howitzers, + I determined to storm the building. At a signal, Captain + Burgwin, at the head of his own company and that of Captain + McMillin, charged the western flank of the church, while + Captain Aubrey, infantry battalion, and Captain Barber and + Lieutenant Boon, Second Missouri Mounted Volunteers, charged + the northern wall. As soon as the troops above mentioned + had established themselves under the western wall of the + church, axes were used in the attempt to breach it, and a + temporary ladder having been made, the roof was fired. + About this time, Captain Burgwin, at the head of a small + party, left the cover afforded by the flank of the church, + and penetrating into the corral in front of that building, + endeavoured to force the door. In this exposed situation, + Captain Burgwin received a severe wound, which deprived me + of his valuable services, and of which he died on the + 7th instant. Lieutenants McIlvaine, First United States + Dragoons, and Royall and Lackland, Second Regiment + Volunteers, accompanied Captain Burgwin into the corral, + but the attempt on the church door proved fruitless, and + they were compelled to retire behind the wall. In the + meantime, small holes had been cut in the western wall, and + shells were thrown in by hand, doing good execution. + The six-pounder was now brought around by Lieutenant Wilson, + who, at the distance of two hundred yards, poured a heavy + fire of grape into the town. The enemy, during all of + this time, kept up a destructive fire upon our troops. + About half-past three o'clock, the six-pounder was run up + within sixty yards of the church, and after ten rounds, + one of the holes which had been cut with the axes was + widened into a practicable breach. The storming party, + among whom were Lieutenant Dyer, of the ordnance, and + Lieutenant Wilson and Taylor, First Dragoons, entered and + took possession of the church without opposition. + The interior was filled with dense smoke, but for which + circumstance our storming party would have suffered great + loss. A few of the enemy were seen in the gallery, + where an open door admitted the air, but they retired + without firing a gun. The troops left to support the + battery on the north side were now ordered to charge on + that side. + + "The enemy then abandoned the western part of the town. + Many took refuge in the large houses on the east, while + others endeavoured to escape toward the mountains. + These latter were pursued by the mounted men under Captains + Slack and St. Vrain, who killed fifty-one of them, only two + or three men escaping. It was now night, and our troops + were quietly quartered in the house which the enemy had + abandoned. On the next morning the enemy sued for peace, + and thinking the severe loss they had sustained would prove + a salutary lesson, I granted their supplication, on the + condition that they should deliver up to me Tomas, one of + their principal men, who had instigated and been actively + engaged in the murder of Governor Bent and others. + The number of the enemy at the battle of Pueblo de Taos + was between six and seven hundred, and of these one hundred + and fifty were killed, wounded not known. Our own loss was + seven killed and forty-five wounded; many of the wounded + have since died." + + The capture of the Taos Pueblo practically ended the main + attempt to expel the Americans from the Territory. + Governor Montoya, who was a very influential man in the + conspiracy and styled himself the "Santa Ana of the North," + was tried by court-martial, convicted, and executed on + February 7th, in the presence of the army. Fourteen others + were tried for participating in the murder of Governor Bent + and the others who were killed on the 19th of January, and + were convicted and executed. Thus, fifteen in all were + hung, being an equal number to those murdered at Taos, the + Arroyo Hondo, and Rio Colorado. Of these, eight were + Mexicans and seven were Pueblo Indians. Several more were + sentenced to be hung for treason, but the President very + properly pardoned them, on the ground that treason against + the United States was not a crime of which a Mexican + citizen could be found guilty, while his country was + actually at war with the United States. + +There are several thrilling, as well as laughable, incidents connected +with the Taos massacre, and the succeeding trial of the insurrectionists; +in regard to which I shall quote freely from _Wah-to-yah_, whose +author, Mr. Lewis H. Garrard, accompanied Colonel St. Vrain across +the plains in 1846, and was present at the trial and execution of +the convicted participants. + +One Fitzgerald, who was a private in Captain Burgwin's company of +Dragoons, in the fight at the Pueblo de Taos, killed three Mexicans +with his own hand, and performed heroic work with the bombs that were +thrown into that strong Indian fortress. He was a man of good feeling, +but his brother having been killed, or rather murdered by Salazar, +while a prisoner in the Texan expedition against Santa Fe, he swore +vengeance, and entered the service with the hope of accomplishing it. +The day following the fight at the Pueblo, he walked up to the +alcalde, and deliberately shot him down. For this act he was confined +to await a trial for murder. + +One raw night, complaining of cold to his guard, wood was brought, +which he piled up in the middle of the room. Then mounting that, +and succeeding in breaking through the roof, he noiselessly crept +to the eaves, below which a sentinel, wrapped in a heavy cloak, paced +to and fro, to prevent his escape. He watched until the guard's back +was turned, then swung himself from the wall, and with as much ease +as possible, walked to a mess-fire, where his friends in waiting +supplied him with a pistol and clothing. When day broke, the town +of Fernandez lay far beneath him in the valley, and two days after +he was safe in our camp. + +Many a hand-to-hand encounter ensued during the fight at Taos, +one of which was by Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, whom I knew intimately; +a grand old gentleman, now sleeping peacefully in the quaint little +graveyard at Mora, New Mexico, where he resided for many years. +The gallant colonel, while riding along, noticed an Indian with whom +he was well acquainted lying stretched out on the ground as if dead. +Confident that this particular red devil had been especially prominent +in the hellish acts of the massacre, the colonel dismounted from +his pony to satisfy himself whether the savage was really dead or +only shamming. He was far from being a corpse, for the colonel had +scarcely reached the spot, when the Indian jumped to his feet and +attempted to run a long, steel-pointed lance through the officer's +shoulder. Colonel St. Vrain was a large, powerfully built man; +so was the Indian, I have been told. As each of the struggling +combatants endeavoured to get the better of the other, with the +savage having a little the advantage, perhaps, it appears that +"Uncle Dick" Wooton, who was in the chase after the rebels, happened +to arrive on the scene, and hitting the Indian a terrific blow on +the head with his axe, settled the question as to his being a corpse. + +Court for the trial of the insurrectionists assembled at nine o'clock. +On entering the room, Judges Beaubien and Houghton were occupying +their official positions. After many dry preliminaries, six prisoners +were brought in--ill-favoured, half-scared, sullen fellows; and the +jury of Mexicans and Americans having been empanelled, the trial +commenced. It certainly did appear to be a great assumption on the +part of the Americans to conquer a country, and then arraign the +revolting inhabitants for treason. American judges sat on the bench. +New Mexicans and Americans filled the jury-box, and American soldiery +guarded the halls. It was a strange mixture of violence and justice-- +a middle ground between the martial and common law. + +After an absence of a few minutes, the jury returned with a verdict +of "guilty in the first degree"--five for murder, one for treason. +Treason, indeed! What did the poor devil know about his new +allegiance? But so it was; and as the jail was overstocked with +others awaiting trial, it was deemed expedient to hasten the execution, +and the culprits were sentenced to be hung on the following Friday-- +hangman's day. + +Court was daily in session; five more Indians and four Mexicans +were sentenced to be hung on the 30th of April. In the court room, +on the occasion of the trial of these nine prisoners, were Senora Bent +the late governor's wife, and Senora Boggs, giving their evidence in +regard to the massacre, of which they were eye-witnesses. Mrs. Bent +was quite handsome; a few years previously she must have been a +beautiful woman. The wife of the renowned Kit Carson also was in +attendance. Her style of beauty was of the haughty, heart-breaking +kind--such as would lead a man, with a glance of the eye, to risk +his life for one smile. + +The court room was a small, oblong apartment, dimly lighted by two +narrow windows; a thin railing keeping the bystanders from contact +with the functionaries. The prisoners faced the judges, and the +three witnesses--Senoras Bent, Boggs, and Carson--were close to them +on a bench by the wall. When Mrs. Bent gave her testimony, the eyes +of the culprits were fixed sternly upon her; when she pointed out +the Indian who had killed the governor, not a muscle of the chief's +face twitched or betrayed agitation, though he was aware her evidence +settled his death warrant; he sat with lips gently closed, eyes +earnestly fixed on her, without a show of malice or hatred--a spectacle +of Indian fortitude, and of the severe mastery to which the emotions +can be subjected. + +Among the jurors was a trapper named Baptiste Brown, a Frenchman, +as were the majority of the trappers in the early days of the border. +He was an exceptionally kind-hearted man when he first came to the +mountains, and seriously inclined to regard the Indians with that +mistaken sentimentality characterizing the average New England +philanthropist, who has never seen the untutored savage on his native +heath. His ideas, however, underwent a marked change as the years +rolled on and he became more familiar with the attributes of the +noble red man. He was with Kit Carson in the Blackfeet country +many years before the Taos massacre, when his convictions were thus +modified, and it was from the famous frontiersman himself I learned +the story of Baptiste's conversion. + +It was late one night in their camp on one of the many creeks in the +Blackfoot region, where they had been established for several weeks, +and Baptiste was on duty, guarding their meat and furs from the +incursions of a too inquisitive grizzly that had been prowling around, +and the impertinent investigations of the wolves. His attention was +attracted to something high up in a neighbouring tree, that seemed +restless, changing its position constantly like an animal of prey. +The Frenchman drew a bead upon it, and there came tumbling down at his +feet a dead savage, with his war-paint and other Indian paraphernalia +adorning his body. Baptiste was terribly hurt over the circumstance +of having killed an Indian, and it grieved him for a long time. +One day, a month after the incident, he was riding alone far away +from our party, and out of sound of their rifles as well, when a band +of Blackfeet discovered him and started for his scalp. He had no +possible chance for escape except by the endurance of his horse; +so a race for life began. He experienced no trouble in keeping out +of the way of their arrows--the Indians had no guns then--and hoped +to make camp before they could possibly wear out his horse. Just as +he was congratulating himself on his luck, right in front of him +there suddenly appeared a great gorge, and not daring to stop or to +turn to the right or left, the only thing to do was to make his animal +jump it. It was his only chance; it was death if he missed it, and +death by the most horrible torture if the Indians captured him. +So he drove his heels into his horse's sides, and essayed the +awful leap. His willing animal made a desperate effort to carry out +the desire of his daring rider, but the dizzy chasm was too wide, +and the pursuing savages saw both horse and the coveted white man +dash to the bottom of the frightful canyon together. Believing that +their hated enemy had eluded them forever, they rode back on their +trail, disgusted and chagrined, without even taking the trouble of +looking over the precipice to learn the fate of Baptiste. + +The horse was instantly killed, and the Frenchman had both of his legs +badly broken. Far from camp, with the Indians in close proximity, +he did not dare discharge his rifle--the usual signal when a trapper +is lost or in danger--or to make any demonstration, so he was +compelled to lie there and suffer, hoping that his comrades, +missing him, would start out to search for him. They did so, +but more than twenty-four hours had elapsed before they found him, +as the bottom of the canyon was the last place they thought of. + +Doctors, in the wild region where their camp was located, were as +impossible as angels; so his companions set his broken bones as well +as they could, while Baptiste suffered excruciating torture. +When they had completed their crude surgery, they improvised a litter +of poles, and rigged it on a couple of pack-mules, and thus carried +him around with them from camp to camp until he recovered--a period +extending over three months. + +This affair completely cured Baptiste of his original sentimentality +in relation to the Indian, and he became one of their worst haters. + +When acting as a juror in the trials of rebel Mexicans and Indians, +he was asleep half the time, and never heard much of the evidence, +and that portion which he did was so much Greek to him. In the last +nine cases, in which the Indian who had murdered Governor Bent +was tried, Baptiste, as soon as the jury room was closed, sang out: +"Hang 'em, hang 'em, sacre enfans des garces, dey dam gran rascale!" +"But wait," suggested one of the cooler members; "let's look at the +evidence and find out whether they are really guilty." Upon this +wise caution, Baptiste got greatly excited, paced the floor, and +cried out: "Hang de Indian anyhow; he may not be guilty now--mais he +vare soon will be. Hang 'em all, parceque dey kill Monsieur Charles; +dey take son topknot, vot you call im--scalp. Hang 'em, hang 'em-- +sa-a-cre-e!" + +On Friday the 9th, the day for the execution, the sky was unspotted, +save by hastily fleeting clouds; and as the rising sun loomed over +the Taos Mountain, the bright rays, shining on the yellow and white +mud-houses, reflected cheerful hues, while the shades of the toppling +peaks, receding from the plain beneath, drew within themselves. +The humble valley wore an air of calm repose. The Plaza was deserted; +woe-begone burros drawled forth sacrilegious brays, as the warm +sunbeams roused them from hard, grassless ground, to scent their +breakfast among straw and bones. + +Poor Mexicans hurried to and fro, casting suspicious glances around; +los Yankees at El casa Americano drank their juleps, and puffed their +cigarettes in silence. + +The sheriff, Metcalf, formerly a mountaineer, was in want of the +wherewithal to hang the condemned criminals, so he borrowed some +rawhide lariats and picket-ropes of a teamster. + +"Hello, Met," said one of the party present, "these reatas are mighty +stiff--won't fit; eh, old feller?" + +"I've got something to make 'em fit--good 'intment--don't emit very +sweet perfume; but good enough for Greasers," said the sheriff, +producing a dollar's worth of Mexican soft soap. "This'll make 'em +slip easy--a long ways too easy for them, I 'spect." + +The prison apartment was a long chilly room, badly ventilated by +one small window and the open door, through which the sun lit up the +earth floor, and through which the poor prisoners wistfully gazed. +Two muscular Mexicans basked in its genial warmth, a tattered serape +interposing between them and the ground. The ends, once fringed but +now clear of pristine ornament, were partly drawn over their breasts, +disclosing in the openings of their fancifully colored shirts +--now glazed with filth and faded with perspiration--the bare skin, +covered with straight black hair. With hands under their heads, +in the mass of stringy locks rusty-brown from neglect, they returned +the looks of their executioners with an unmeaning stare, and +unheedingly received the salutation of--"Como le va!" + +Along the sides of the room, leaning against the walls, were crowded +the poor wretches, miserable in dress, miserable in features, +miserable in feelings--a more disgusting collection of ragged, greasy, +unwashed prisoners were, probably, never before congregated within +so small a space as the jail of Taos. + +About nine o'clock, active preparations were made for the execution, +and the soldiery mustered. Reverend padres in long black gowns, +with meek countenances, passed the sentinels, intent on spiritual +consolation, or the administration of the Blessed Sacrament. + +Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, commanding the military, ordered every +American under arms. The prison was at the edge of the town; +no houses intervened between it and the fields to the north. +One hundred and fifty yards distant, a gallows was erected. + +The word was passed, at last, that the criminals were coming. +Eighteen soldiers received them at the gate, with their muskets at +"port arms"; the six abreast, with the sheriff on the right-- +nine soldiers on each side. + +The poor prisoners marched slowly, with downcast eyes, arms tied +behind, and bare heads, with the exception of white cotton caps +stuck on the back, to be pulled over the face as the last ceremony. + +The roofs of the houses in the vicinity were covered with women and +children, to witness the first execution by hanging in the valley +of Taos, save that of Montojo, the insurgent leader. No men were +near; a few stood afar off, moodily looking on. + +On the flat jail roof was placed a mountain howitzer, loaded and +ranging the gallows. Near was the complement of men to serve it, +one holding in his hand a lighted match. The two hundred and thirty +soldiers, less the eighteen forming the guard, were paraded in front +of the jail, and in sight of the gibbet, so as to secure the prisoners +awaiting trial. Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, on a handsome charger, +commanded a view of the whole. + +When within fifteen paces of the gallows, the side-guard, filing off +to the right, formed, at regular distances from each other, three +sides of a hollow square; the mountaineers composed the fourth and +front side, in full view of the trembling prisoners, who marched up to +the tree under which was a government wagon, with two mules attached. +The driver and sheriff assisted them in, ranging them on a board, +placed across the hinder end, which maintained its balance, as they +were six--an even number--two on each extremity, and two in the middle. +The gallows was so narrow that they touched. The ropes, by reason +of their size and stiffness, despite the soaping given them, were +adjusted with difficulty; but through the indefatigable efforts +of the sheriff and a lieutenant who had accompanied him, all +preliminaries were arranged, although the blue uniform looked sadly +out of place on a hangman. + +With rifles at a "shoulder," the military awaited the consummation +of the tragedy. There was no crowd around to disturb; a death-like +stillness prevailed. The spectators on the roofs seemed scarcely +to move--their eyes were directed to the doomed wretches, with harsh +halters now encircling their necks. + +The sheriff and his assistant sat down; after a few moments of +intense expectation, the heart-wrung victims said a few words to +their people. Only one of them admitted he had committed murder +and deserved death. In their brief but earnest appeals, the words +"mi padre, mi madre"--"my father, my mother"--were prominent. +The one sentenced for treason showed a spirit of patriotism worthy +of the cause for which he died--the liberty of his country; and +instead of the cringing recantation of the others, his speech was +a firm asseveration of his own innocence, the unjustness of his trial, +and the arbitrary conduct of his murderers. As the cap was pulled +over his face, the last words he uttered between his teeth with +a scowl were "Carajo, los Americanos!" + +At a word from the sheriff, the mules were started, and the wagon +drawn from under the tree. No fall was given, and their feet remained +on the board till the ropes drew tight. The bodies swayed back and +forth, and while thus swinging, the hands of two came together with +a firm grasp till the muscles loosened in death. + +After forty minutes' suspension, Colonel Willock ordered his command +to quarters, and the howitzer to be taken from its place on the roof +of the jail. The soldiers were called away; the women and population +in general collecting around the rear guard which the sheriff had +retained for protection while delivering the dead to their weeping +relatives. + +While cutting a rope from one man's neck--for it was in a hard knot-- +the owner, a government teamster standing by waiting, shouted angrily, +at the same time stepping forward: + +"Hello there! don't cut that rope; I won't have anything to tie +my mules with." + +"Oh! you darned fool," interposed a mountaineer, "the dead men's +ghosts will be after you if you use them lariats--wagh! They'll make +meat of you sartain." + +"Well, I don't care if they do. I'm in government service; and if +them picket-halters was gone, slap down goes a dollar apiece. +Money's scarce in these diggin's, and I'm going to save all I kin +to take home to the old woman and boys." + + + + +CHAPTER IX. +FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. + + + +On the summit of one of the highest plateaus bordering the Missouri +River, surrounded by a rich expanse of foliage, lies Independence, +the beautiful residence suburb of Kansas City, only ten miles distant. + +Tradition tells that early in this century there were a few pioneers +camping at long distances from each other in the seemingly +interminable woods; in summer engaged in hunting the deer, elk, and +bear, and in winter in trapping. It is a well-known fact that +the Big Blue was once a favourite resort of the beaver, and that +even later their presence in great numbers attracted many a veteran +trapper to its waters. + +Before that period the quaint old cities of far-off Mexico were +forbidden to foreign traders, excepting to the favoured few who were +successful in obtaining permits from the Spanish government. In 1821, +however, the rebellion of Iturbide crushed the power of the mother +country, and established the freedom of Mexico. The embargo upon +foreign trade was at once removed, and the Santa Fe Trail, for untold +ages only a simple trace across the continent, became the busy highway +of a relatively great commerce. + +In 1817 the navigation of the Mississippi River was begun. On the 2d +of August of that year the steamer _General Pike_ arrived at St. Louis. +The first boat to ascend the Missouri River was the _Independence_; +she passed Franklin on the 28th of May, 1819, where a dinner was given +to her officers. In the same and the following month of that year, +the steamers _Western Engineer Expedition_ and _R. M. Johnson_ came +along, carrying Major Long's scientific exploring party, bound for +the Yellowstone. + +The Santa Fe trade having been inaugurated shortly after these +important events, those engaged in it soon realized the benefits +of river navigation--for it enabled them to shorten the distance +which their wagons had to travel in going across the plains--and +they began to look out for a suitable place as a shipping and +outfitting point higher up the river than Franklin, which had been +the initial starting town. + +By 1827 trading-posts had been established at Blue Mills, Fort Osage, +and Independence. The first-mentioned place, which is situated about +six miles below Independence, soon became the favourite landing, +and the exchange from wagons to boats settled and defied all efforts +to remove the headquarters of the trade from there for several years. +Independence, however, being the county seat and the larger place, +succeeded in its claims to be the more suitable locality, and as +early as 1832 it was recognized as the American headquarters and the +great outfitting point for the Santa Fe commerce, which it continued +to be until 1846, when the traffic was temporarily suspended by the +breaking out of the Mexican War. + +Independence was not only the principal outfitting point for the +Santa Fe traders, but also that of the great fur companies. That +powerful association used to send out larger pack-trains than any +other parties engaged in the traffic to the Rocky Mountains; +they also employed wagons drawn by mules, and loaded with goods for +the Indians with whom their agents bartered, which also on their +return trip transported the skins and pelts of animals procured from +the savages. The articles intended for the Indian trade were +always purchased in St. Louis, and usually shipped to Independence, +consigned to the firm of Aull and Company, who outfitted the traders +with mules and provisions, and in fact anything else required by them. + +Several individual traders would frequently form joint caravans, +and travel in company for mutual protection from the Indians. After +having reached a fifty-mile limit from the State line, each trader +had control of his own men; each took care of a certain number of +the pack-animals, loaded and unloaded them in camp, and had general +supervision of them. + +Frequently there would be three hundred mules in a single caravan, +carrying three hundred pounds apiece, and very large animals more. +Thousands of wagons were also sent out from Independence annually, +each drawn by twelve mules or six yoke of oxen, and loaded with +general merchandise. + +There were no packing houses in those days nearer than St. Louis, +and the bacon and beef used in the Santa Fe trade were furnished by +the farmers of the surrounding country, who killed their meat, +cured it, and transported it to the town where they sold it. +Their wheat was also ground at the local mills, and they brought +the flour to market, together with corn, dried fruit, beans, peas, +and kindred provisions used on the long route across the plains. + +Independence very soon became the best market west of St. Louis for +cattle, mules, and wagons; the trade of which the place was the +acknowledged headquarters furnishing employment to several thousand +men, including the teamsters and packers on the Trail. The wages +paid varied from twenty-five to fifty dollars a month and rations. +The price charged for hauling freight to Santa Fe was ten dollars +a hundred pounds, each wagon earning from five to six hundred dollars +every trip, which was made in eighty or ninety days; some fast +caravans making quicker time. + +The merchants and general traders of Independence in those days +reaped a grand harvest. Everything to eat was in constant demand; +mules and oxen were sold in great numbers every month at excellent +prices and always for cash; while any good stockman could readily +make from ten to fifty dollars a day. + +One of the largest manufacturers and most enterprising young men in +Independence at that time was Hiram Young, a coloured man. Besides +making hundreds of wagons, he made all the ox-yokes used in the +entire traffic; fifty thousand annually during the '50's and until +the breaking out of the war. The forward yokes were sold at an +average of one dollar and a quarter, the wheel yokes a dollar higher. + +The freight transported by the wagons was always very securely loaded; +each package had its contents plainly marked on the outside. +The wagons were heavily covered and tightly closed. Every man +belonging to the caravan was thoroughly armed, and ever on the alert +to repulse an attack by the Indians. + +Sometimes at the crossing of the Arkansas the quicksands were so bad +that it was necessary to get the caravan over in a hurry; then forty +or fifty yoke of oxen were hitched to one wagon and it was quickly +yanked through the treacherous ford. This was not always the case, +however; it depended upon the stage of water and recent floods. + +After the close of the war with Mexico, the freight business across +the plains increased to a wonderful degree. The possession of the +country by the United States gave a fresh impetus to the New Mexico +trade, and the traffic then began to be divided between Westport +and Kansas City. Independence lost control of the overland commerce +and Kansas City commenced its rapid growth. Then came the discovery +of gold in California, and this gave an increased business westward; +for thousands of men and their families crossed the plains and +the Rocky Mountains, seeking their fortunes in the new El Dorado. +The Old Trail was the highway of an enormous pilgrimage, and both +Independence and Kansas City became the initial point of a wonderful +emigration. + +In Independence may still be seen a few of the old landmarks when +it was the headquarters of the Santa Fe trade. + +An overland mail was started from the busy town as early as 1849. +In an old copy of the Missouri _Commonwealth_, published there under +the date of July, 1850, which I found on file in the Kansas State +Historical Society, there is the following account of the first mail +stage westward:-- + + We briefly alluded, some days since, to the Santa Fe line + of mail stages, which left this city on its first monthly + journey on the 1st instant. The stages are got up in + elegant style, and are each arranged to convey eight + passengers. The bodies are beautifully painted, and made + water-tight, with a view of using them as boats in ferrying + streams. The team consists of six mules to each coach. + The mail is guarded by eight men, armed as follows: Each man + has at his side, fastened in the stage, one of Colt's + revolving rifles; in a holster below, one of Colt's long + revolvers, and in his belt a small Colt's revolver, besides + a hunting-knife; so that these eight men are ready, in case + of attack, to discharge one hundred and thirty-six shots + without having to reload. This is equal to a small army, + armed as in the ancient times, and from the looks of this + escort, ready as they are, either for offensive or defensive + warfare with the savages, we have no fears for the safety + of the mails. + + The accommodating contractors have established a sort of + base of refitting at Council Grove, a distance of one + hundred and fifty miles from this city, and have sent out + a blacksmith, and a number of men to cut and cure hay, with + a quantity of animals, grain, and provisions; and we + understand they intend to make a sort of traveling station + there, and to commence a farm. They also, we believe, + intend to make a similar settlement at Walnut Creek next + season. Two of their stages will start from here the + first of every month. + +The old stage-coach days were times of Western romance and adventure, +and the stories told of that era of the border have a singular +fascination in this age of annihilation of distance. + +Very few, if any, of the famous men who handled the "ribbons" in those +dangerous days of the slow journey across the great plains are among +the living; like the clumsy and forgotten coaches they drove, +they have themselves been mouldering into dust these many years. + +In many places on the line of the Trail, where the hard hills have not +been subjected to the plough, the deep ruts cut by the lumbering +Concord coaches may yet be distinctly traced. Particularly are they +visible from the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe track, as the cars +thunder rapidly toward the city of Great Bend, in Kansas, three miles +east of that town. Let the tourist as he crosses Walnut Creek look +out of his window toward the east at an angle of about thirty-five +degrees, and on the flint hills which slope gradually toward the +railroad, he will observe, very distinctly, the Old Trail, where it +once drew down from the divide to make the ford at the little stream. + +The monthly stages started from each end of the route at the same time; +later the service was increased to once a week; after a while to +three times, until in the early '60's daily stages were run from both +ends of the route, and this was continued until the advent of the +railroad. + +Each coach carried eleven passengers, nine closely stowed inside +--three on a seat--and two on the outside on the boot with the driver. +The fare to Santa Fe was two hundred and fifty dollars, the allowance +of baggage being limited to forty pounds; all in excess of that cost +half a dollar a pound. In this now seemingly large sum was included +the board of the travellers, but they were not catered to in any +extravagant manner; hardtack, bacon, and coffee usually exhausted +the menu, save that at times there was an abundance of antelope and +buffalo. + +There was always something exciting in those journeys from the +Missouri to the mountains in the lumbering Concord coach. There was +the constant fear of meeting the wily red man, who persistently +hankered after the white man's hair. Then there was the playfulness +of the sometimes drunken driver, who loved to upset his tenderfoot +travellers in some arroya, long after the moon had sunk below +the horizon. + +It required about two weeks to make the trip from the Missouri River +to Santa Fe, unless high water or a fight with the Indians made it +several days longer. The animals were changed every twenty miles +at first, but later, every ten, when faster time was made. What sleep +was taken could only be had while sitting bolt upright, because there +was no laying over; the stage continued on night and day until +Santa Fe was reached. + +After a few years, the company built stations at intervals varying +from ten miles to fifty or more; and there the animals and drivers +were changed, and meals furnished to travellers, which were always +substantial, but never elegant in variety or cleanliness. + +Who can ever forget those meals at the "stations," of which you were +obliged to partake or go hungry: biscuit hard enough to serve as +"round-shot," and a vile decoction called, through courtesy, coffee +--but God help the man who disputed it! + +Some stations, however, were notable exceptions, particularly in the +mountains of New Mexico, where, aside from the bread--usually only +tortillas, made of the blue-flint corn of the country--and coffee +composed of the saints may know what, the meals were excellent. +The most delicious brook trout, alternating with venison of the +black-tailed deer, elk, bear, and all the other varieties of game +abounding in the region cost you one dollar, but the station-keeper +a mere trifle; no wonder the old residents and ranchmen on the line +of the Old Trail lament the good times of the overland stage! + +Thirteen years ago I revisited the once well-known Kosloskie's Ranch, +a picturesque cabin at the foot of the Glorieta Mountains, about half +a mile from the ruins on the Rio Pecos. The old Pole was absent, +but his wife was there; and, although I had not seen her for fifteen +years, she remembered me well, and at once began to deplore the +changed condition of the country since the advent of the railroad, +declaring it had ruined their family with many others. I could not +disagree with her view of the matter, as I looked on the debris of +a former relative greatness all around me. I recalled the fact that +once Kosloskie's Ranch was the favourite eating station on the Trail; +where you were ever sure of a substantial meal--the main feature +of which was the delicious brook trout, which were caught out of +the stream which ran near the door while you were washing the dust +out of your eyes and ears. + +The trout have vacated the Pecos; the ranch is a ruin, and stands +in grim contrast with the old temple and church on the hill; and both +are monuments of civilizations that will never come again. + +Weeds and sunflowers mark the once broad trail to the quaint Aztec +city, and silence reigns in the beautiful valley, save when broken +by the passage of "The Flyer" of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe +railway, as it struggles up the heavy grade of the Glorieta Mountains +a mile or more distant. + +Besides the driver, there was another employee--the conductor or +messenger, as he was called. He had charge of the mail and express +matter, collected the fares, and attended generally to the requirements +of those committed to his care during the tedious journey; for he +was not changed like the driver, but stayed with the coach from its +starting to its destination. Sometimes fourteen individuals were +accommodated in case of emergency; but it was terribly crowded and +uncomfortable riding, with no chance to stretch your limbs, save for +a few moments at stations where you ate and changed animals. + +In starting from Independence, powerful horses were attached to +the coach--generally four in number; but at the first station they +were exchanged for mules, and these animals hauled it the remainder +of the way. Drivers were changed about eight times in making the trip +to Santa Fe; and some of them were comical fellows, but full of nerve +and endurance, for it required a man of nerve to handle eight frisky +mules through the rugged passes of the mountains, when the snow was +drifted in immense masses, or when descending the curved, icy +declivities to the base of the range. A cool head was highly +necessary; but frequently accidents occurred and sometimes were +serious in their results. + +A snowstorm in the mountains was a terrible thing to encounter by +the coach; all that could be done was to wait until it had abated, +as there was no going on in the face of the blinding sheets of +intensely cold vapour which the wind hurled against the sides of +the mountains. All inside of the coach had to sit still and shake +with the freezing branches of the tall trees around them. A summer +hailstorm was much more to be dreaded, however; for nowhere else on +the earth do the hailstones shoot from the clouds of greater size or +with greater velocity than in the Rocky Mountains. Such an event +invariably frightened the mules and caused them to stampede; and, +to escape death from the coach rolling down some frightful abyss, +one had to jump out, only to be beaten to a jelly by the masses of +ice unless shelter could be found under some friendly ledge of rock +or the thick limbs of a tree. + +Nothing is more fatiguing than travelling for the first day and night +in a stage-coach; after that, however, one gets used to it and the +remainder of the journey is relatively comfortable. + +The only way to alleviate the monotony of riding hour after hour +was to walk; occasionally this was rendered absolutely necessary +by some accident, such as breaking a wheel or axle, or when an animal +gave out before a station was reached. In such cases, however, +no deduction was made from the fare, that having been collected in +advance, so it cost you just as much whether you rode or walked. +You could exercise your will in the matter, but you must not lag +behind the coach; the savages were always watching for such derelicts, +and your hair was the forfeit! + +In the worst years, when the Indians were most decidedly on the +war-trail, the government furnished an escort of soldiers from the +military posts; they generally rode in a six-mule army-wagon, and +were commanded by a sergeant or corporal; but in the early days, +before the army had concentrated at the various forts on the great +plains, the stage had to rely on the courage and fighting qualities +of its occupants, and the nerve and the good judgment of the driver. +If the latter understood his duty thoroughly and was familiar with +the methods of the savages, he always chose the cover of darkness +in which to travel in localities where the danger from Indians was +greater than elsewhere; for it is a rare thing in savage warfare +to attack at night. The early morning seemed to be their favourite +hour, when sleep oppresses most heavily; and then it was that the +utmost vigilance was demanded. + +One of the most confusing things to the novice riding over the great +plains is the idea of distance; mile after mile is travelled on +the monotonous trail, with a range of hills or a low divide in +full sight, yet hours roll by and the objects seem no nearer than +when they were first observed. The reason for this seems to be that +every atom of vapour is eliminated from the air, leaving such an +absolute clearness of atmosphere, such an indescribable transparency +of space through which distant objects are seen, that they are +magnified and look nearer than they really are. Consequently, +the usual method of calculating distance and areas by the eye is ever +at fault until custom and familiarity force a new standard of measure. + +Mirages, too, were of frequent occurrence on the great plains; +some of them wonderful examples of the refracting properties of light. +They assumed all manner of fantastic, curious shapes, sometimes +ludicrously distorting the landscape; objects, like a herd of buffalo +for instance, though forty miles away, would seem to be high in air, +often reversed, and immensely magnified in their proportions. + +Violent storms were also frequent incidents of the long ride. +I well remember one night, about thirty years ago, when the coach +in which I and one of my clerks were riding to Fort Dodge was +suddenly brought to a standstill by a terrible gale of wind and hail. +The mules refused to face it, and quickly turning around nearly +overturned the stage, while we, with the driver and conductor, +were obliged to hold on to the wheels with all our combined strength +to prevent it from blowing down into a stony ravine, on the brink +of which we were brought to a halt. Fortunately, these fearful +blizzards did not last very long; the wind ceased blowing so violently +in a few moments, but the rain usually continued until morning. + +It usually happened that you either at once took a great liking for +your driver and conductor, or the reverse. Once, on a trip from +Kansas City, nearly a third of a century ago, when I and another man +were the only occupants of the coach, we entertained quite a friendly +feeling for our driver; he was a good-natured, jolly fellow, full of +anecdote and stories of the Trail, over which he had made more than +a hundred sometimes adventurous journeys. + +When we arrived at the station at Plum Creek, the coach was a little +ahead of time, and the driver who was there to relieve ours commenced +to grumble at the idea of having to start out before the regular hour. +He found fault because we had come into the station so soon, and +swore he could drive where our man could not "drag a halter-chain," +as he claimed in his boasting. We at once took a dislike to him, +and secretly wished that he would come to grief, in order to cure him +of his boasting. Sure enough, before we had gone half a mile from the +station he incontinently tumbled the coach over into a sandy arroya, +and we were delighted at the accident. Finding ourselves free from +any injury, we went to work and assisted him to right the coach-- +no small task; but we took great delight in reminding him several +times of his ability to drive where our old friend could not "drag +a halter-chain." It was very dark; neither moon or star visible, +the whole heavens covered with an inky blackness of ominous clouds; +so he was not so much to be blamed after all. + +The very next coach was attacked at the crossing of Cow Creek by +a band of Kiowas. The savages had followed the stage all that +afternoon, but remained out of sight until just at dark, when they +rushed over the low divide, and mounted on their ponies commenced +to circle around the coach, making the sand dunes resound with echoes +of their infernal yelling, and shaking their buffalo-robes to stampede +the mules, at the same time firing their guns at the men who were +in the coach, all of whom made a bold stand, but were rapidly getting +the worst of it, when fortunately a company of United States cavalry +came over the Trail from the west, and drove the savages off. +Two of the men in the coach were seriously wounded, and one of the +soldiers killed; but the Indian loss was never determined, as they +succeeded in carrying off both their dead and wounded. + +Mr. W. H. Ryus, a friend of mine now residing in Kansas City, who was +a driver and messenger thirty-five years, and had many adventures, +told me the following incidents: + + I have crossed the plains sixty-five times by wagon and + coach. In July, 1861, I was employed by Barnum, Vickery, + and Neal to drive over what was known as the Long Route, + that is, from Fort Larned to Fort Lyon, two hundred and + forty miles, with no station between. We drove one set of + mules the whole distance, camped out, and made the journey, + in good weather, in four or five days. In winter we + generally encountered a great deal of snow, and very cold + air on the bleak and wind-swept desert of the Upper Arkansas, + but we employees got used to that; only the passengers did + any kicking. We had a way of managing them, however, + when they got very obstreperous; all we had to do was to + yell Indians! and that quieted them quicker than forty-rod + whiskey does a man. + + We gathered buffalo-chips, to boil our coffee and cook our + buffalo and antelope steak, smoked for a while around the + smouldering fire until the animals were through grazing, + and then started on our lonely way again. + + Sometimes the coach would travel for a hundred miles through + the buffalo herds, never for a moment getting out of sight + of them; often we saw fifty thousand to a hundred thousand + on a single journey out or in. The Indians used to call + them their cattle, and claimed to own them. They did not, + like the white man, take out only the tongue, or hump, and + leave all the rest to dry upon the prairie, but ate every + last morsel, even to the intestines. They said the whites + were welcome to all they could eat or haul away, but they + did not like to see so much meat wasted as was our custom. + + The Indians on the plains were not at all hostile in 1861-62; + we could drive into their villages, where there were tens + of thousands of them, and they would always treat us to + music or a war-dance, and set before us the choicest of + their venison and buffalo. In July of the last-mentioned + year, Colonel Leavenworth, Jr., was crossing the Trail in + my coach. He desired to see Satanta, the great Kiowa chief. + The colonel's father[28] was among the Indians a great deal + while on duty as an army officer, while the young colonel + was a small boy. The colonel said he didn't believe that + old Satanta would know him. + + Just before the arrival of the coach in the region of the + Indian village, the Comanches and the Pawnees had been + having a battle. The Comanches had taken some scalps, + and they were camping on the bank of the Arkansas River, + where Dodge City is now located. The Pawnees had killed + five of their warriors, and the Comanches were engaged in + an exciting war-dance; I think there were from twenty to + thirty thousand Indians gathered there, men, women, and + children of the several tribes--Comanches, Kiowas, Cheyennes, + Arapahoes, and others. + + When we came in sight of their camp, the colonel knew, by + the terrible noise they were making, that a war-dance was + going on; but we did not know then whether it was on account + of troubles among themselves, or because of a fight with + the whites, but we were determined to find out. If he could + get to the old chief, all would be right. So he and I + started for the place whence the noise came. We met a savage + and the colonel asked him whether Satanta was there, and + what was going on. When he told us that they had had + a fight and it was a scalp-dance, our hair lowered; for we + knew that if it was in consequence of trouble with the + whites, we stood in some danger of losing our own scalps. + + The Indian took us in, and the situation, too; and conducted + us into the presence of Satanta, who stood in the middle + of the great circle, facing the dancers. It was out on an + island in the stream; the chief stood very erect, and eyed + us closely for a few seconds, then the colonel told his + own name that the Indians had known him by when he was a boy. + Satanta gave one bound--he was at least ten feet from where + we were waiting--grasped the colonel's hand and excitedly + kissed him, then stood back for another instant, gave him + a second squeeze, offered his hand to me, which I, + of course, shook heartily, then he gazed at the man he had + known as a boy so many years ago, with a countenance + beaming with delight. I never saw any one, even among + the white race, manifest so much joy as the old chief did + over the visit of the colonel to his camp. + + He immediately ordered some of his young men to go out and + herd our mules through the night, which they brought back + to us at daylight. He then had the coach hauled to the + front of his lodge, where we could see all that was going on + to the best advantage. We had six travellers with us on + this journey, and it was a great sight for the tenderfeet. + + It was about ten o'clock at night when we arrived at + Satanta's lodge, and we saw thousands of squaws and bucks + dancing and mourning for their dead warriors. At midnight + the old chief said we must eat something at once. So he + ordered a fire built, cooked buffalo and venison, setting + before us the very best that he had, we furnishing canned + fruit, coffee, and sugar from our coach mess. There we sat, + and talked and ate until morning; then when we were ready + to start off, Satanta and the other chiefs of the various + tribes escorted us about eight miles on the Trail, where + we halted for breakfast, they remaining and eating with us. + +Colonel Leavenworth was on his way to assume command of one of the +military posts in New Mexico; the Indians begged him to come back +and take his quarters at either Fort Larned or Fort Dodge. They told +him they were afraid their agent was stealing their goods and selling +them back to them; while if the Indians took anything from the whites, +a war was started. + +Colonel A. G. Boone had made a treaty with these same Indians in 1860, +and it was agreed that he should be their agent. It was done, and +the entire savage nations were restful and kindly disposed toward +the whites during his administration; any one could then cross the +plains without fear of molestation. In 1861, however, Judge Wright, +of Indiana, who was a member of Congress at the time, charged Colonel +Boone with disloyalty.[29] He succeeded in having him removed. + +Majors Russel and Waddell, the great government freight contractors +across the plains, gave Colonel Boone fourteen hundred acres of land, +well improved, with some fine buildings on it, about fifteen miles +east of Pueblo, Colorado. It was christened Booneville, and the +colonel moved there. In the fall of 1862, fifty influential Indians +of the various tribes visited Colonel Boone at his new home, and +begged that he would come back to them and be their agent. He told +the chiefs that the President of the United States would not let him. +Then they offered to sell their horses to raise money for him to go +to Washington to tell the Great Father what their agent was doing; +and to have him removed, or there was going to be trouble. +The Indians told Colonel Boone that many of their warriors would be +on the plains that fall, and they were declaring they had as much +right to take something to eat from the trains as their agent had +to steal goods from them. + +Early in the winter of the next year, a small caravan of eight or ten +wagons travelling to the Missouri River was overhauled at Nine Mile +Ridge, about fifty miles west of Fort Dodge, by a band of Indians, +who asked for something to eat. The teamsters, thinking them to be +hostile, believed it would be a good thing to kill one of them anyhow; +so they shot an inoffensive warrior, after which the train moved on +to its camp and the trouble began. Every man in the whole outfit, +with the exception of one teamster, who luckily got to the Arkansas +River and hid, was murdered, the animals all carried away, and the +wagons and contents destroyed by fire. + +This foolish act by the master of the caravan was the cause of a +long war, causing hundreds of atrocious murders and the destruction +of a great deal of property along the whole Western frontier. + +That fall, 1863, Mr. Ryus was the messenger or conductor in charge +of the coach running from Kansas City to Santa Fe. He said: + It then required a month to make the round trip, about + eighteen hundred miles. On account of the Indian war + we had to have an escort of soldiers to go through the most + dangerous portions of the Trail; and the caravans all + joined forces for mutual safety, besides having an escort. + + My coach was attacked several times during that season, and + we had many close calls for our scalps. Sometimes the + Indians would follow us for miles, and we had to halt and + fight them; but as for myself, I had no desire to kill one + of the miserable, outraged creatures, who had been swindled + out of their just rights. + + I know of but one occasion when we were engaged in a fight + with them when our escort killed any of the attacking + savages; it was about two miles from Little Coon Creek + Station, where they surrounded the coach and commenced + hostilities. In the fight one officer and one enlisted man + were wounded. The escort chased the band for several miles, + killed nine of them, and got their horses. + + + + +CHAPTER X. +CHARLES BENT. + + + +Almost immediately after the ratification of the purchase of +New Mexico by the United States under the stipulations of the +"Guadalupe-Hidalgo Treaty," the Utes, one of the most powerful tribes +of mountain Indians, inaugurated a bloody and relentless war against +the civilized inhabitants of the Territory. It was accompanied by +all the horrible atrocities which mark the tactics of savage hatred +toward the white race. It continued for several years with more +or less severity; its record a chapter of history whose pages are +deluged with blood, until finally the Indians were subdued by the +power of the military. + +Along the line of the Santa Fe Trail, they were frequently in +conjunction with the Apaches, and their depredations and atrocities +were very numerous; they attacked fearlessly freight caravans, +private expeditions, and overland stage-coaches, robbing and murdering +indiscriminately. + +In January, 1847, the mail and passenger stage left Independence, +Missouri, for Santa Fe on one of its regular trips across the plains. +It had its full complement of passengers, among whom were a Mr. White +and family, consisting of his wife, one child, and a coloured nurse. + +Day after day the lumbering Concord coach rolled on, with nothing to +disturb the monotony of the vast prairies, until it had left them +far behind and crossed the Range into New Mexico. Just about dawn, +as the unsuspecting travellers were entering the "canyon of the +Canadian,"[30] and probably waking up from their long night's sleep, +a band of Indians, with blood-curdling yells and their terrific +war-whoop, rode down upon them. + +In that lonely and rock-sheltered gorge a party of the hostile savages, +led by "White Wolf," a chief of the Apaches, had been awaiting the +arrival of the coach from the East; the very hour it was due was +well known to them, and they had secreted themselves there the +night before so as to be on hand should it reach their chosen ambush +a little before the schedule time. + +Out dashed the savages, gorgeous in their feathered war-bonnets, +but looking like fiends with their paint-bedaubed faces. Stopping the +frightened mules, they pulled open the doors of the coach and, +mercilessly dragging its helpless and surprised inmates to the ground, +immediately began their butchery. They scalped and mutilated the +dead bodies of their victims in their usual sickening manner, not a +single individual escaping, apparently, to tell of their fiendish acts. + +If the Indians had been possessed of sufficient cunning to cover up +the tracks of their horrible atrocities, as probably white robbers +would have done, by dragging the coach from the road and destroying it +by fire or other means, the story of the murders committed in the +deep canyon might never have been known; but they left the tell-tale +remains of the dismantled vehicle just where they had attacked it, +and the naked corpses of its passengers where they had been ruthlessly +killed. + +At the next stage station the employees were anxiously waiting for +the arrival of the coach, and wondering what could have caused +the delay; for it was due there at noon on the day of the massacre. +Hour after hour passed, and at last they began to suspect that +something serious had occurred; they sat up all through the night +listening for the familiar rumbling of wheels, but still no stage. +At daylight next morning, determined to wait no longer, as they felt +satisfied that something out of the usual course had happened, +a party hurriedly mounted their horses and rode down the broad trail +leading to the canyon. + +Upon entering its gloomy mouth after a quick lope of an hour, +they discovered the ghastly remains of twelve mutilated bodies. +These were gathered up and buried in one grave, on the top of the +bluff overlooking the narrow gorge. + +They could not be sure of the number of passengers the coach had +brought until the arrival of the next, as it would have a list of +those carried by its predecessor; but it would not be due for +several days. They naturally supposed, however, that the twelve dead +lying on the ground were its full complement. + +Not waiting for the arrival of the next stage, they despatched a +messenger to the last station east that the one whose occupants +had been murdered had passed, and there learned the exact number +of passengers it had contained. Now they knew that Mrs. White, +her child, and the coloured nurse had been carried off into a +captivity worse than death; for no remains of a woman were found +with the others lying in the canyon. + +The terrible news of the massacre was conveyed to Taos, where were +stationed several companies of the Second United States Dragoons, +commanded by Major William Greer; but as the weather had grown +intensely cold and stormy since the date of the massacre, it took +nearly a fortnight for the terrible story to reach there. The Major +acted promptly when appealed to to go after and punish the savages +concerned in the outrage, but several days more were lost in getting +an expedition ready for the field. It was still stormy while the +command was preparing for its work; but at last, one bright morning, +in a piercing cold wind, five troops of the dragoons, commanded by +Major Greer in person, left their comfortable quarters to attempt +the rescue of Mrs. White, her child, and nurse. + +Kit Carson, "Uncle Dick" Wooten, Joaquin Leroux, and Tom Tobin were +the principal scouts and guides accompanying the expedition, having +volunteered their services to Major Greer, which he had gladly accepted. + +The massacre having occurred three weeks before the command had +arrived at the canyon of the Canadian, and snow having fallen almost +continuously ever since, the ground was deeply covered, making it +almost impossible to find the trail of the savages leading out of +the gorge. No one knew where they had established their winter camp +--probably hundreds of miles distant on some tributary of the Canadian +far to the south. + +Carson, Wooton, and Leroux, after scanning the ground carefully at +every point, though the snow was ten inches deep, in a way of which +only men versed in savage lore are capable, were rewarded by +discovering certain signs, unintelligible to the ordinary individual[31] +--that the murderers had gone south out of the canyon immediately +after completing their bloody work, and that their camp was somewhere +on the river, but how far off none could tell. + +The command followed up the trail discovered by the scouts for nearly +four hundred miles. Early one morning when that distance had been +rounded, and just as the men were about to break camp preparatory +to the day's march, Carson went out on a little reconnoissance on his +own account, as he had noticed a flock of ravens hovering in the air +when he first got out of his blankets at dawn, which was sufficient +indication to him that an Indian camp was located somewhere in the +vicinity; for that ominous bird is always to be found in the region +where the savages take up an abode, feeding upon the carcasses of +the many varieties of game killed for food. He had not proceeded +more than half a mile from the camp when he discovered two Indians +slowly riding over a low "divide," driving a herd of ponies before +them. The famous scout was then certain their village could not +be very far away. The savages did not observe him, as he took good +care they should not; so he returned quickly to where Major Greer +was standing by his camp-fire and reported the presence of a village +very close at hand. + +The Major having sent for Tom Tobin and Uncle Dick Wooton, requested +them to go and find the exact location of the savages. These scouts +came back in less than half an hour, and reported a large number +of teepees in a thick grove of timber a mile away. + +It was at once determined to surprise the savages in their winter +quarters by charging right among their lodges without allowing them +time to mount their ponies, as the gallant Custer rode, at the head +of his famous troopers of the Seventh Cavalry, into the camp of the +celebrated chief "Black Kettle" on the Washita, in the dawn of a +cold November morning twenty years afterward. + +The command succeeded in getting within good charging distance of the +village without its occupants having any knowledge of its proximity; +but at this moment Major Greer was seized with an idea that he ought +to have a parley with the Indians before he commenced to fight them, +and for that purpose he ordered a halt, just as the soldiers were +eager for the sound of the "Charge!" + +Never were a body of men more enraged. Carson gave vent to his wrath +in a series of elaborately carved English oaths, for which he was +noted when young; Leroux, whose naturally hot blood was roused, +swore at the Major in a curious mixture of bad French and worse +mountain dialect, and it appeared as if the battle would begin in the +ranks of the troops instead of those of the savages; for never was +a body of soldiers so disgusted at the act of any commanding officer. + +This delay gave the Indians, who could be seen dodging about among +their lodges and preparing for a fight that was no longer a surprise, +time to hide their women and children, mount their ponies, and get +down into deep ravines, where the soldiers could not follow them. +While the Major was trying to convince his subordinates that his +course was the proper one, the Indians opened fire without any parley, +and it happened that at the first volley a bullet struck him in the +breast, but a suspender buckle deflected its course and he was not +seriously wounded. + +The change in the countenance of their commanding officer caused by +the momentary pain was just the incentive the troopers wanted, and +without waiting for the sound of the trumpet, they spurred their +horses, dashed in, and charged the thunderstruck savages with the +shock of a tornado. + +In two successful charges of the gallant and impatient troopers more +than a hundred of the Indians were killed and wounded, but the time +lost had permitted many to escape, and the pursuit of the stragglers +would have been unavailing under the circumstances; so the command +turned back and returned to Taos. In the village was found the body +of Mrs. White still warm, with three arrows in her breast. Had the +charge been made as originally expected by the troopers, her life +would have been saved. No trace of the child or of the coloured +nurse was ever discovered, and it is probable that they were both +killed while en route from the canyon to the village, as being +valueless to keep either as slaves or for other purposes. + +The fate of the Apache chief, "White Wolf," who was the leader in +the outrages in the canyon of the Canadian, was fitting for his +devilish deeds. It was Lieutenant David Bell's fortune to avenge +the murder of Mrs. White and her family, and in an extraordinary +manner.[32] The action was really dramatic, or romantic; he was +on a scout with his company, which was stationed at Fort Union, +New Mexico, having about thirty men with him, and when near the canyon +of the Canadian they met about the same number of Indians. A parley +was in order at once, probably desired by the savages, who were +confronted with an equal number of troopers. Bell had assigned +the baggage-mules to the care of five or six of his command, and held +a mounted interview with the chief, who was no other than the infamous +White Wolf of the Jicarilla Apaches. As Bell approached, White Wolf +was standing in front of his Indians, who were on foot, all well armed +and in perfect line. Bell was in advance of his troopers, who were +about twenty paces from the Indians, exactly equal in number and +extent of line; both parties were prepared to use firearms. + +The parley was almost tediously long and the impending duel was +arranged, White Wolf being very bold and defiant. + +At last the leaders exchanged shots, the chief sinking on one knee +and aiming his gun, Bell throwing his body forward and making his +horse rear. Both lines, by command, fired, following the example +of their superiors, the troopers, however, spurring forward over +their enemies. The warriors, or nearly all of them, threw themselves +on the ground, and several vertical wounds were received by horse +and rider. The dragoons turned short about, and again charged through +and over their enemies, the fire being continuous. As they turned +for a third charge, the surviving Indians were seen escaping to a +deep ravine, which, although only one or two hundred paces off, +had not previously been noticed. A number of the savages thus +escaped, the troopers having to pull up at the brink, but sending +a volley after the descending fugitives. + +In less than fifteen minutes twenty-one of the forty-six actors in +this strange combat were slain or disabled. Bell was not hit, but +four or five of his men were killed or wounded. He had shot +White Wolf several times, and so did others after him; but so +tenacious of life was the Apache that, to finish him, a trooper +got a great stone and mashed his head. + +This was undoubtedly the greatest duel of modern times; certainly +nothing like it ever occurred on the Santa Fe Trail before or since. + +The war chief of the Kiowa nation in the early '50's was Satank, +a most unmitigated villain; cruel and heartless as any savage that +ever robbed a stage-coach or wrenched off the hair of a helpless woman. +After serving a dozen or more years with a record for hellish +atrocities equalled by few of his compeers, he was deposed for alleged +cowardice, as his warriors claimed, under the following circumstances:-- + +The village of his tribe was established in the large bottoms, +eight miles from the Great Bend of the Arkansas, and about the same +distance from Fort Zarah.[33] All the bucks were absent on a hunting +expedition, excepting Satank and a few superannuated warriors. +The troops were out from Fort Larned on a grand scout after marauding +savages, when they suddenly came across the village and completely +took the Kiowas by surprise. Seeing the soldiers almost upon them, +Satank and other warriors jumped on their ponies and made good their +escape. Had they remained, all of them would have been killed or +at least captured; consequently Satank, thinking discretion better +than valour at that particular juncture, incontinently fled. +His warriors in council, however, did not agree with him; they thought +that it was his duty to have remained at the village in defence of +the women and children, as he had been urged to refrain from going on +the hunt for that very purpose. + +Some time before Satank lost his office of chief, there was living +on Cow Creek, in a rude adobe building, a man who was ostensibly +an Indian trader, but whose traffic, in reality, consisted in selling +whiskey to the Indians, and consequently the United States troops +were always after him. He was obliged to cache his liquor in every +conceivable manner so that the soldiers should not discover it, and, +of course, he dreaded the incursions of the troops much more than +he did raids of the Indian marauders that were constantly on the Trail. + +Satank and this illicit trader, whose name was Peacock, were great +chums. One day while they were indulging in a general good time +over sundry drinks of most villanous liquor, Satank said to Peacock: +"Peacock, I want you to write me a letter; a real nice one, that +I can show to the wagon-bosses on the Trail, and get all the 'chuck' +I want. Tell them I am Satank, the great chief of the Kiowas, and +for them to treat me the best they know how." + +"All right, Satank," said Peacock; "I'll do so." Peacock then sat +down and wrote the following epistle:-- + +"The bearer of this is Satank. He is the biggest liar, beggar, and +thief on the plains. What he can't beg of you, he'll steal. Kick him +out of camp, for he is a lazy, good-for-nothing Indian." + +Satank began at once to make use of the supposed precious document, +which he really believed would assure him the dignified treatment +and courtesy due to his exalted rank. He presented it to several +caravans during the ensuing week, and, of course, received a very +cool reception in every instance, or rather a very warm one. + +One wagon-master, in fact, black-snaked him out of his camp. +After these repeated insults he sought another white friend, and +told of his grievances. "Look here," said Satank, "I asked Peacock +to write me a good letter, and he gave me this; but I don't +understand it! Every time I hand it to a wagon-boss, he gives me +the devil! Read it to me and tell me just what it does say." + +His friend read it over, and then translated it literally to Satank. +The savage assumed a countenance of extreme disgust, and after musing +for a few moments, said: "Well, I understand it all now. All right!" + +The next morning at daylight, Satank called for some of his braves +and with them rode out to Peacock's ranch. Arriving there, he called +out to Peacock, who had not yet risen: "Peacock, get up, the soldiers +are coming!" It was a warning which the illicit trader quickly +obeyed, and running out of the building with his field-glass in his +hand, he started for his lookout, but while he was ascending the +ladder with his back to Satank the latter shot him full of holes, +saying, as he did so: "There, Peacock, I guess you won't write any +more letters." + +His warriors then entered the building and killed every man in it, +save one who had been gored by a buffalo bull the day before, and +who was lying in a room all by himself. He was saved by the fact +that the Indian has a holy dread of small-pox, and will never enter +an apartment where sick men lie, fearing they may have the awful +disease. + +Satanta (White Bear) was the most efficient and dreaded chief of all +who have ever been at the head of the Kiowa nation. Ever restlessly +active in ordering or conducting merciless forays against an exposed +frontier, he was the very incarnation of deviltry in his determined +hatred of the whites, and his constant warfare against civilization. + +He also possessed wonderful oratorical powers; he could hurl the most +violent invectives at those whom he argued with, or he could be +equally pathetic when necessary. He was justly called "The Orator of +the Plains," rivalling the historical renown of Tecumseh or Pontiac. + +He was a short, bullet-headed Indian, full of courage and well versed +in strategy. Ordinarily, when on his visits to the various military +posts he wore a major-general's full uniform, a suit of that rank +having been given to him in the summer of 1866 by General Hancock. +He also owned an ambulance, a team of mules, and a set of harness, +the last stolen, maybe, from some caravan he had raided on the Trail. +In that ambulance, with a trained Indian driver, the wily chief +travelled, wrapped in a savage dignity that was truly laughable. +In his village, too, he assumed a great deal of style. He was very +courteous to his white guests, if at the time his tribe were at all +friendly with the government; nothing was too good for them. +He always laid down a carpet on the floor of his lodge in the post +of honour, on which they were to sit. He had large boards, twenty +inches wide and three feet long, ornamented with brass tacks driven +all around the edges, which he used for tables. He also had a +French horn, which he blew vigorously when meals were ready. + +His friendship was only dissembling. During all the time that +General Sheridan was making his preparations for his intended winter +campaign against the allied plains tribes, Satanta made frequent +visits to the military posts, ostensibly to show the officers that +he was heartily for peace, but really to inform himself of what was +going on. + +At that time I was stationed at Fort Harker, on the Smoky Hill. +One evening, General Sheridan, who was my guest, was sitting on the +verandah of my quarters, smoking and chatting with me and some other +officers who had come to pay him their respects, when one of my men +rode up and quietly informed me that Satanta had just driven his +ambulance into the fort, and was getting ready to camp near the mule +corral. On receiving this information, I turned to the general and +suggested the propriety of either killing or capturing the inveterate +demon. Personally I believed it would be right to get rid of such +a character, and I had men under my command who would have been +delighted to execute an order to that effect. + +Sheridan smiled when I told him of Satanta's presence and the +excellent chance to get rid of him. But he said: "That would +never do; the sentimentalists in the Eastern States would raise +such a howl that the whole country would be horrified!" + +Of course, in these "piping times of peace" the reader, in the quiet +of his own room, will think that my suggestion was brutal, and without +any palliation; my excuse, however, may be found in General +Washington's own motto: Exitus acta probat. If the suggestion had +been acted upon, many an innocent man and woman would have escaped +torture, and many a maiden a captivity worse than death. + +As a specimen of Satanta's oratory, I offer the following, to show +the hypocrisy of the subtle old villain, and his power over the minds +of too sensitive auditors. Once Congress sent out to the central +plains a commission from Washington to inquire into the causes of +the continual warfare raging with the savages on the Kansas border; +to learn what the grievances of the Indians were; and to find some +remedy for the wholesale slaughter of men, women, and children along +the line of the Old Trail. + +Satanta was sent for by the commission as the leading spirit of the +formidable Kiowa nation. When he entered the building at Fort Dodge +in which daily sessions were held, he was told by the president to +speak his mind without any reservation; to withhold nothing, but to +truthfully relate what his tribe had to complain of on the part of +the whites. The old rascal grew very pathetic as he warmed up to +his subject. He declared that he had no desire to kill the white +settlers or emigrants crossing the plains, but that those who came +and lived on the land of his tribe ruthlessly slaughtered the buffalo, +allowing their carcasses to rot on the prairie; killing them merely +for the amusement it afforded them, while the Indian only killed +when necessity demanded. He also stated that the white hunters +set out fires, destroying the grass, and causing the tribe's horses +to starve to death as well as the buffalo; that they cut down and +otherwise destroyed the timber on the margins of the streams, making +large fires of it, while the Indian was satisfied to cook his food +with a few dry and dead limbs. "Only the other day," said he, +"I picked up a little switch on the Trail, and it made my heart bleed +to think that so small a green branch, ruthlessly torn out of the +ground and thoughtlessly destroyed by some white man, would in time +have grown into a stately tree for the use and benefit of my children +and grandchildren." + +After the pow-wow had ended, and Satanta had got a few drinks of +red liquor into him, his real, savage nature asserted itself, and +he said to the interpreter at the settler's store: "Now didn't I +give it to those white men who came from the Great Father? Didn't I +do it in fine style? Why, I drew tears from their eyes! The switch +I saw on the Trail made my heart glad instead of sad; for I new there +was a tenderfoot ahead of me, because an old plainsman or hunter +would never have carried anything but a good quirt or a pair of spurs. +So I said to my warriors, 'Come on, boys; we've got him!' and when +we came in sight, after we had followed him closely on the dead run, +he threw away his rifle and held tightly on to his hat for fear +he should lose it!" + +Another time when Satanta had remained at Fort Dodge for a very long +period and had worn out his welcome, so that no one would give him +anything to drink, he went to the quarters of his old friend, +Bill Bennett, the overland stage agent, and begged him to give him +some liquor. Bill was mixing a bottle of medicine to drench a +sick mule. The moment he set the bottle down to do something else, +Satanta seized it off the ground and drank most of the liquid before +quitting. Of course, it made the old savage dreadfully sick as well +as angry. He then started for a certain officer's quarters and again +begged for something to cure him of the effects of the former dose; +the officer refused, but Satanta persisted in his importunities; +he would not leave without it. After a while, the officer went to +a closet and took a swallow of the most nauseating medicine, placing +the bottle back on its shelf. Satanta watched his chance, and, +as soon as the officer left the room, he snatched the bottle out of +the closet and drank its contents without stopping to breathe. +It was, of course, a worse dose than the horse-medicine. The next +day, very early in the morning, he assembled a number of his warriors, +crossed the Arkansas, and went south to his village. Before leaving, +however, he burnt all of the government contractor's hay on the bank +of the river opposite the post. He then continued on to Crooked Creek, +where he murdered three wood-choppers, all of which, he said afterward, +he did in revenge for the attempt to poison him at Fort Dodge. + +At the Comanche agency, where several of the government agents were +assembled to have a talk with chiefs of the various plains tribes, +Satanta said in his address: "I would willingly take hold of that part +of the white man's road which is represented by the breech-loading +rifles; but I don't like the corn rations--they make my teeth hurt!" + +Big Tree was another Kiowa chief. He was the ally and close friend +of Satanta, and one of the most daring and active of his warriors. +The sagacity and bravery of these two savages would have been a credit +to that of the most famous warriors of the old French and Indian Wars. +Both were at last taken, tried, and sent to the Texas penitentiary +for life. Satanta was eventually pardoned; but before he was made +aware of the efforts that were being taken for his release, +he attempted to escape, and, in jumping from a window, fell and broke +his neck. His pardon arrived the next morning. Big Tree, through +the work of the sentimentalists of Washington, was set free and sent +to the Kiowa Reservation--near Fort Sill in the Indian Territory. + +The next most audacious and terrible scourge of the plains was +"Ta-ne-on-koe" (Kicking Bird). He was a great warrior of the Kiowas, +and was the chief actor in some of the bloodiest raids on the Kansas +frontier in the history of its troublous times. + +One of his captures was that of a Miss Morgan and Mrs. White. +They were finally rescued from the savages by General Custer, under +the following circumstances: Custer, who was advancing with his +column of invincible cavalrymen--the famous Seventh United States-- +in search of the two unfortunate women, had arrived near the head +waters of one of the tributaries of the Washita, and, with only +his guide and interpreter, was far in advance of the column, when, +on reaching the summit of an isolated bluff, they suddenly saw a +village of the Kiowas, which turned out to be that of Kicking Bird, +whose handsome lodge was easily distinguishable from the rest. +Without waiting for his command, the general and his guide rode +boldly to the lodge of the great chief, and both dismounted, holding +cocked revolvers in their hands; Custer presented his at Kicking +Bird's head. In the meantime, Custer's column of troopers, whom +the Kiowas had good reason to remember for their bravery in many +a hard-fought battle, came in full view of the astonished village. +This threw the startled savages into the utmost consternation, but +the warriors were held in check by signs from Kicking Bird. As the +cavalry drew nearer, General Custer demanded the immediate release +of the white women. Their presence in the village was at first +denied by the lying chief, and not until he had been led to the limb +of a huge cottonwood tree near the lodge, with a rope around his neck, +did he acknowledge that he held the women and consent to give them up. + +This well-known warrior, with a foreknowledge not usually found in the +savage mind, seeing the beginning of the end of Indian sovereignty +on the plains, voluntarily came in and surrendered himself to the +authorities, and stayed on the reservation near Fort Sill. + +In June, 1867, a year before the breaking out of the great Indian war +on the central plains, the whole tribe of Kiowas, led by him, +assembled at Fort Larned. He was the cynosure of all eyes, as he +was without question one of the noblest-looking savages ever seen +on the plains. On that occasion he wore the full uniform of a +major-general of the United States army. He was as correctly moulded +as a statue when on horseback, and when mounted on his magnificent +charger the morning he rode out with General Hancock to visit the +immense Indian camp a few miles above the fort on Pawnee Fork, +it would have been a difficult task to have determined which was +the finer-looking man. + +After Kicking Bird had abandoned his wicked career, he was regarded +by every army officer with whom he had a personal acquaintance as +a remarkably good Indian; for he really made the most strenuous +efforts to initiate his tribe into the idea that it was best for it +to follow the white man's road. He argued with them that the time +was very near when there would no longer be any region where the +Indians could live as they had been doing, depending on the buffalo +and other game for the sustenance of their families; they must adapt +themselves to the methods of their conquerors. + +In July, 1869, he became greatly offended with the government for +its enforced removal of his tribe from its natural and hereditary +hunting-grounds into the reservation allotted to it. At that time +many of his warriors, together with the Comanches, made a raid on +the defenceless settlements of the northern border of Texas, in which +the savages were disastrously defeated, losing a large number of +their most beloved warriors. On the return of the unsuccessful +expedition, a great council was held, consisting of all the chiefs +and head men of the two tribes which had suffered so terribly in +the awful fight, to consider the best means of avenging the loss +of so many braves and friends. Kicking Bird was summoned before +that council and condemned as a coward; they called him a squaw, +because he had refused to go with the warriors of the combined tribes +on the raid into Texas. + +He told a friend of mine some time afterward that he had intended +never again to go against the whites; but the emergency of the case, +and his severe condemnation by the council, demanded that he should +do something to re-establish himself in the good graces of his tribe. +He then made one of the most destructive raids into Texas that ever +occurred in the history of its border warfare, which successfully +restored him to the respect of his warriors. + +In that raid Kicking Bird carried off vast herds of horses and a +large number of scalps. Although his tribe fairly worshipped him, +he was not at all satisfied with himself. He could look into the +future as well as any one, and from that time on to his tragic death +he laboured most zealously and earnestly in connection with the +Indian agents to bring his people to live on the reservation which +the government had established for them in the Territory. + +At the inauguration of the so-called "Quaker Policy" by President +Grant, that sect was largely intrusted with the management of Indian +affairs, particularly in the selection of agents for the various +tribes. A Mr. Tatham was appointed agent for the Kiowas in 1869. +He at once gained the confidence of Kicking Bird, who became very +valuable to him as an assistant in controlling the savages. It was +through that chief's influence that Thomas Batty, another Quaker, +was allowed to take up his residence with the tribe, the first white +man ever accorded that privilege. Batty was permitted to erect +three tents, which were staked together, converting them into an +ample schoolhouse. In that crude, temporary structure he taught +the Kiowa youth the rudiments of an education. This very successful +innovation shows how earnest the former dreaded savage was in his +efforts to promote the welfare of his people, by trying to induce +them to "take the white man's road." + +Batty succeeded admirably for a year in his office of teacher, +the chief all the time nobly withstanding the taunts and jeers of +his warriors and their threats of taking his life, for daring to +allow a white man within the sacred precincts of their village-- +a thing unparalleled in the annals of the tribe. + +At last trouble came; the dissatisfied members of the tribe, the +ambitious and restless young men, eager for renown, made another +unsuccessful raid into Texas. The result was that they lost nearly +the whole of the band, among which was the favourite son of Lone Wolf, +a noted chief.[34] After the death of his son, he declared that he +must and would have the scalp of a white man in revenge for the +untimely taking off of the young warrior. Of course, the most +available white man at this juncture was Batty, the Quaker teacher, +and he was chosen by Lone Wolf as the victim of savage revenge. +Here the noble instincts of Kicking Bird developed themselves. +He very plainly told Lone Wolf, who was constantly threatening and +thirsting for blood, that he could not kill Batty until he first +killed him and all his band. But Lone Wolf had fully determined +to have the hair of the innocent Quaker; so Kicking Bird, to avert +any collision between the two bands of Indians, kidnapped Batty +and ran him off to the agency, arriving at Fort Sill about an hour +before Lone Wolf's band of avengers overtook them, and thus the +Quaker teacher was saved. + +One day, long after these occurrences, a friend of mine was in the +sutler's store at Fort Sill. In there was a stranger talking to +Mr. Fox, the agent of the Indians. Soon Kicking Bird entered the +establishment, and the stranger asked Mr. Fox who that fine-looking +Indian was. He was told, and then he begged the agent to say to him +that he would like to have a talk with him; for he it was who led +that famous raid into Texas. "I never saw better generalship in the +field in all my experience. He had three horses killed under him. +I was the surgeon of the rangers and was, of course, in the fight."[35] + +When Kicking Bird was told that the Texas doctor desired to talk with +him, he replied with great dignity that he did not want to revive +those troublous times. "Tell him, though," said Kicking Bird, "that +was my last raid against the whites; that I am a changed man." + +The President of the United States sent for Kicking Bird to come to +Washington, and to bring with him such other influential Indians as +he thought might aid in inducing the Kiowas to cease their continual +raiding on the border of Texas. + +In due time Kicking Bird left for the capital, taking with him +Lone Wolf, Big Bow, and Sun Boy of the Kiowas, together with several +of the head men of the Comanches. When the deputation of savages +arrived in Washington, it was received at the presidential mansion +by the chief magistrate himself. So much more attention was given +to Kicking Bird than to the others, that they became very jealous, +particularly when the President announced to them the appointment +of Kicking Bird as the head chief of the tribe.[36] But Lone Wolf +would never recognize his authority, constantly urging the young men +to raid the settlements. Lone Wolf was a genuine savage, without one +redeeming trait, and his hatred of the white race was unparalleled +in its intensity. He was never known to smile. No other Indian can +show such a record of horrible massacres as he is responsible for. +His orders were rigidly obeyed, for he brooked no disobedience on +the part of his warriors. + +In the summer of 1876, a party of English gentlemen left Fort Harker +for a buffalo hunt. They soon exhausted all their rations and started +a four-mule team back to the post for more. Some of Lone Wolf's band +of cut-throats came across the unfortunate teamster, killed him, +and ran off the team. After the occurrence, Kicking Bird came into +the agency at Fort Sill and told Mr. Haworth, the agent, that he had +given his word to the Great Father at Washington he would do all he +could to bring in those Indians who had been raiding by order of +Lone Wolf, particularly the two who had killed the Englishmen's driver. + +He succeeded in bringing in twelve Indians in all, among them the +murderers of the driver. They, with Lone Wolf and Satank, were sent +to the Dry Tortugas for life. The morning they started on their +journey Satank talked very feelingly to Kicking Bird, with tears in +his eyes. He said that they might look for his bones along the road, +for he would never go to Florida. The savages were loaded into +government wagons. Satank was inside of one with a soldier on each +side of him, their legs hanging outside. Somehow the crafty villain +managed to slip the handcuffs off his wrists, at the same instant +seizing the rifle of one of his guards, and then shoved the two men +out with his feet. He tried to work the lever of the rifle, but +could not move it, and one of the soldiers, coming around the wagon +to where he was still trying to get the gun so as he could use it, +shot him down, and then threw his body on the Trail. Thus Satank +made good his vow that he would never be taken to Florida. He met +his death only a mile from the post. + +After the departure of the condemned savages, the feeling in the tribe +against Kicking Bird increased to an alarming extent. Several times +the most incensed warriors tried to kill him by shooting at him from +an ambush. After he became fully aware that his life was in danger, +he never left his lodge without his carbine. He was as brave as a +lion, fearing none of the members of Lone Wolf's band; but he often +said it was only a question of a short time when he would be gotten +rid of; he did not allow the matter, however, to worry him in the +least, saying that he was conscious he had done his duty by his tribe +and the Great Father. + +In a bend of Cash Creek, about half a mile below the mill, about half +a dozen of the Kiowas had their lodges, that of their chief being +among them. At ten o'clock one Monday in June, 1876, Mr. Haworth, +the agent, came in haste to the shops, called the master mechanic, +Mr. Wykes, out, told him to jump into the carriage quickly; that +Kicking Bird was dead. + +When they arrived at the home of the great chief, sure enough he was +dead, and some of the women were engaged in folding his body in robes. +Other squaws were cutting themselves in a terrible manner, as is their +custom when a relative dies, and were also breaking everything +breakable about the lodge. Kicking Bird had always been scrupulously +clean and neat in the care of his home; it was adorned with the most +beautifully dressed buffalo robes and the finest furs, while the floor +was covered with matting. + +It seems that Kicking Bird, after visiting Mr. Wykes that morning, +went immediately to his lodge, and sat down to eat something, but +just as he had finished a cup of coffee, he fell over, dead. He had +in his service a Mexican woman, and she had been bribed to poison him. + +An expensive coffin was made at the agency for his remains, fashioned +out of the finest black walnut to be found in the country where that +timber grows to such a luxuriant extent. It was eight feet long +and four feet deep, but even then it did not hold one-half of his +effects, which were, according to the savage custom, interred with +his body. + +The cries and lamentations of the warriors and women of his band +were heartrending; such a manifestation of grief was never before +witnessed at the agency. A handsome fence was erected around his +grave, in the cemetery at Fort Sill, and the government ordered +a beautiful marble monument to be raised over it; but I do not know +whether it was ever done. + +Kicking Bird was only forty years old at the time of his sudden +taking off, and was very wealthy for an Indian. He knew the uses +of money and was a careful saver of it. A great roll of greenbacks +was placed in his coffin, and that fact having leaked out, it was +rumoured that his grave was robbed; but the story may not have been +true. + +One of the greatest terrors of the Old Santa Fe Trail was the +half-breed Indian desperado Charles Bent. His mother was a Cheyenne +squaw, and his father the famous trader, Colonel Bent. He was born +at the base of the Rocky Mountains, and at a very early age placed +in one of the best schools that St. Louis afforded. His venerable +sire, with only a limited education himself, was determined that +his boy should profit by the culture and refinement of civilization, +so he was not allowed to return to his mountain home at Bent's Fort, +and the savage conditions under which he was born, until he had +attained his majority. He then spoke no language but English. +His mother died while he was absent at school, and his father +continued to live at the old fort, where Charles, after he had +reached the age of twenty-one, joined him. + +Some Washington sentimentalist, philosophizing on the Indian character, +his knowledge being based on Cooper's novels probably, has said: +"Civilization has very marked effects upon an Indian. If he once +learns to speak English, he will soon forget all his native cunning +and pride of race." Let us see how this theory worked with Charley Bent. + +As soon as the educated half-breed set his foot on his native heath +he readily found enough ambitious young bucks of his own age who +were willing to look on him as their leader. They loved him, too, +if such a thing were possible, as Fra Diavolo was loved by his wild +followers. His band was known as the "Dog-Soldiers"; a sort of a +semi-military organization, consisting of the most daring, +blood-thirsty young men of the tribe; and sometimes "squaw-men," +that is, renegade white men married to squaws, attached themselves +to his command of cut-throats. + +At the head of this collection of the worst savages, hardly ever +numbering over a hundred, Charles Bent robbed ranches, attacked +wagon-trains, overland coaches, and army caravans. He stole and +murdered indiscriminately. The history of his bloody work will +never be wholly revealed, for dead men have no tongues. + +He would visit all alone, in the guise of plainsman, hunter, or +cattleman, the emigrant trains crossing the continent, always, +however, those which had only small escorts or none at all. Feigning +hunger, while his needs were being kindly furnished, he would glance +around him to learn what kind of an outfit it was; its value, its +destination, and how well guarded. Then he would take his leave with +many thanks, rejoin his band, and with it dash down on the train and +kill every human being unfortunate enough not to have escaped before +he arrived. + +He was indefatigable in his efforts to kill off the whole corps of +army scouts. He would pass himself off as a fellow-scout, as a +deserter from some military post, or as an Indian trader, for he was +a wonderful actor, and would have achieved histrionic honours had +he chosen the stage as a profession. + +He would always time his actions so as to be found apparently asleep +by a little camp-fire on the bank of Pawnee Fork, Crooked, Mulberry, +or Walnut creeks, all of which streams intercepted the trails running +north and south between the several military posts during the Indian +war, when he would seem delighted and astonished, or else simulate +suspicion. Then he would either murder the unsuspecting scout with +his own hands, or deliver him to the red fiends of his band to be +tormented. + +The government offered a reward of five thousand dollars for Bent's +capture, dead or alive. It was reported currently that he was at last +killed in a battle with some deputy United States marshals, and that +they received the reward; but the whole thing was manufactured out of +whole cloth, and if the marshals received the money, Uncle Sam was +most outrageously swindled. + +The facts are that he died of malarial fever superinduced by a wound +received in a fight with the Kaws, near the mouth of the Walnut and +not far from Fort Zarah. His "Dog-Soldiers" were whipped by the Kaws, +and his band driven off. Bent lingered for some time and died. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. +LA GLORIETA. + + + +New Mexico, at the breaking out of the Civil War, was abandoned by +the government at Washington, or at least so overlooked that the +charge of neglect was merited. In the report of the committee on +the Conduct of the War, under date of July 15, 1862, Brevet +Lieutenant-Colonel B. S. Roberts of the regular army, major of the +Third Cavalry, who was stationed in the Territory in 1861, says: + It appears to me to be the determination of General Thomas[37] + not to acknowledge the service of the officers who saved + the Territory of New Mexico; and the utter neglect of the + adjutant-general's department for the last year to + communicate in any way with the commanding officer of the + department of New Mexico, or to answer his urgent appeals + for reinforcements, for money and other supplies, in + connection with his repudiation of the services of all the + army there, convinces me that he is not gratified at their + loyalty and their success in saving that Territory to + the Union. + +If space could be given to the story of the carefully prepared plans +of the leaders of secession for the conquest of all the territory +south of a line drawn from Maryland directly west to the Pacific +coast, in which were California, Arizona, and New Mexico, it would +reveal some startling facts, and prove beyond question that it was +the intention of Jefferson Davis to precipitate the rebellion a +decade before it actually occurred. The basis of the scheme was to +inaugurate a war between Texas--which, when admitted into the Union, +claimed all that part of New Mexico east of the Rio Grande--and the +United States, in which conflict Mississippi and some of the other +Southern States were to become participants. The plan fell flat, +because, in 1851, Mr. Davis failed of a re-election to the governorship +of Mississippi. + +So confident were many of Mr. Davis' allies in regard to the +contemplated rebellion, that they boasted to their friends of the +North, upon leaving Washington, that when they met again, it would +be upon a Southern battle-field. + +I have alluded incidentally to what is known as the Texas Santa Fe +Expedition, inaugurated by the President of what was then the republic +of Texas, Mirabeau B. Lamar. It was given out to the world that +it was merely one of commercial interest--to increase the trade +between the two countries; but that it was intended for the conquest +of New Mexico, no one now, in the light of history, doubts. +It resulted in disaster, and is a story well worthy the examination +of the student of American politics.[38] + +In 1861 General Twiggs commanded the military department of which +Texas was an important part. It will be remembered that he surrendered +to the Confederate government the troops, the munitions of war, +the forts, or posts as they were properly termed, and everything +pertaining to the United States army under his control. It was the +intention of the Confederacy to use this region as a military base +from which to continue its conquests westward, and capture the various +forts in New Mexico. Particularly they had their eyes upon Fort Union, +where there was an arsenal, which John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, +had taken especial care to have well stocked previously to the act +of secession. + +But the conspirators had reckoned without their host; they imagined +the native Mexicans would eagerly accept their overtures, and readily +support the Southern Confederacy. Mr. Davis and his coadjutors had +evidently forgotten the effect of the Texas Santa Fe Expedition, +in 1841, upon the people of the Province of New Mexico; but the +natives themselves had not. Besides the loyalty of the Mexicans, +there was a factor which the Confederate leaders had failed to +consider, which was that the majority of the American pioneers had +come from loyal States. + +Of course, there were many secessionists both in Colorado and +New Mexico who were watching the progress of rebellion in eager +anticipation; and it is claimed that in Denver a rebel flag was +raised--but how true that is I do not know. + +John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, was one of the leading spirits of +the Confederacy. A year before the Civil War he placed in command +of the department of New Mexico a North Carolinian, Colonel Loring, +who was in perfect sympathy with his superior, and willing to carry +out his well-defined plans. In 1861 he ordered Colonel G. B. Crittenden +on an expedition against the Apaches. This officer at once tried to +induce his troops to attach themselves to the rebel army in Texas, +but he was met with an indignant refusal by Colonel Roberts and +the regular soldiers under him. The loyal colonel told Crittenden, +in the most forcible language, that he would resist any such attempt +on his part, and reported the action of Colonel Crittenden to the +commander of the department at Santa Fe. Of course, Colonel Loring +paid no attention to the complaint of disloyalty, and then Colonel +Roberts conveyed the tidings to the commanding officers of several +military posts in the Territory, whom he knew were true to the Union, +and only one man out of nearly two thousand regular soldiers +renounced his flag. Some of the officers stationed at New Mexico +were of a different mind, and one of them, Major Lynde, commanding +Fort Filmore, surrendered to a detachment of Texans, who paroled +the enlisted men, as they firmly refused to join the rebel forces. + +Upon the desertion of Colonel Loring to the Southern Confederacy, +General Edward R. S. Canby was assigned to the command of the +department; next in rank was the loyal Roberts. At this perilous +juncture in New Mexico, there were but a thousand regulars all told, +but the Territory furnished two regiments of volunteers, commanded by +officers whose names had been famous on the border for years. +Among these was Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, who had been conspicuous +in the suppression of the Mexican insurrection of 1847, fifteen years +before. Kit Carson was lieutenant-colonel; J. F. Chaves, major; and +the most prominent of the line officers Captain Albert H. Pfeiffer, +with a record as an Indian fighter equal to that of Carson. + +At the same time Colorado was girding on her armour for the impending +conflict. The governor of the prosperous Territory was William Gilpin, +an old army officer, who had spent a large part of his life on the +frontier, and had accompanied Colonel Doniphan, as major of his +regiment, across the plains, on the expedition to New Mexico in 1846. + +Colonel Gilpin at once responded to the pleadings of New Mexico for +help, by organizing two companies at first, quickly following with +a full regiment. This Colorado regiment was composed of as fine +material as any portion of the United States could furnish. +John P. Slough, a war Democrat and a lawyer, was its colonel. +He afterwards became chief justice of New Mexico, and was brutally +murdered in that Territory. + +John M. Chivington, a strict Methodist and a presiding elder of +that church, was offered the chaplaincy, but firmly declined, and, +like many others who wore the clerical garb, he quickly doffed it +and put on the attire of a soldier; so he was made major, and his +record as a fighter was equal to the best. + +The commanding general knew well the plans of the rebels as to their +intended occupation of New Mexico, and, notwithstanding the weakness +of his force, determined to frustrate them if within the limits of +possibility. To that end he concentrated his little army, comprising +a thousand regular soldiers, the two regiments of New Mexico +volunteers, two companies of Colorado troops, and a portion of the +territorial militia, at Fort Craig, on the Rio Grande, to await +the approach of the Confederate troops, under the command of +General H. H. Sibley, an old regular army officer, a native of +Louisiana, and the inventor of the comfortable tent named after him. + +Sibley's brigade comprised some three thousand men, the majority +of them Texans, and he expected that many more would flock to his +standard as he moved northward. On the 19th of February, 1862, +he crossed the Rio Grande below Fort Craig, not daring to attack +Canby in his intrenched position. The Union commander, in order +to keep the Texas troops from gaining the high points overlooking +the fort, placed portions of the Fifth, Seventh, and Tenth Regulars, +together with Carson's and Pino's volunteers, on the other side of +the river. No collision occurred that day, but the next afternoon +Major Duncan, with his cavalry and Captain M'Rae's light battery, +having been sent across to reinforce the infantry, a heavy artillery +fire was immediately opened upon them by the Texans. The men under +Carson behaved splendidly, but the other volunteer regiments became +a little demoralized, and the general was compelled to call back +the force into the fort. Sibley's force, both men and animals, +suffered much from thirst, the latter stampeding, and many, wandering +into our lines, were caught by the scouts of the Union forces. +The next morning early Colonel Roberts was ordered to proceed about +seven miles up the river to keep the Texans away from the water at +a point where it was alone accessible, on account of the steepness +of the banks everywhere else. + +The gallant Roberts, on arriving at the ford, planted a battery there, +and at once opened fire. This was the battle of Valverde, the details +of which, however, do not belong to this book, having been only +incidentally referred to in order to lead the reader intelligently +up to that of La Glorieta, Apache Canyon, or Pigeon's Ranch, as it +is indifferently called. + +Valverde was lost to the Union troops, but never did men fight more +valiantly, with the exception of a few who did not act the part of +the true soldier. The brave M'Rae mounted one of the guns of his +battery, choosing to die rather than surrender. + +General Sibley, after his doubtful victory at Valverde, continued +on to Albuquerque and Santa Fe. The old city offered no resistance +to his occupation; in fact, some of the most influential Mexicans +were pleased, their leaning being strongly toward the Southern +Confederacy; but the common people were as loyal to the Union as +those of any of the Northern States, a feeling intensified by their +hatred for the Texans on account of the expedition of conquest in +1841, twenty-one years before. They contributed of their means to +aid the United States troops, but have never received proper credit +for their action in those days of trouble in the neglected Territory. + +The Confederate general was disappointed at the way in which affairs +were going, for he had based great hopes upon the defection of the +native residents; but he determined to march forward to Fort Union, +where his friend Floyd had placed such stores as were likely to be +needed in the campaign which he had designed. + +From Santa Fe to Fort Union, where the arsenal was located, the road +runs through the deep, rocky gorge known as Apache Canyon. It is +one of the wildest spots in the mountains, the walls on each side +rising from one to two thousand feet above the Trail, which is within +the range of ordinary cannon from every point, and in many places +of point-blank rifle-shot. Granite rocks and sands abound, and the +hills are covered with long-leafed pine. It is a gateway which, +in the hands of a skilful engineer and one hundred resolute men, +can be made perfectly impregnable. + +The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway passes directly through +this picturesque chasm, every foot of which is classic ground, and +in the season of the mountain freshets constant care is needed to +keep its bridges in place. + +At its eastern entrance is a large residence, known as Pigeon's Ranch, +from which the battle to be described derives its name, though, +as stated, it is also known as that of Apache Canyon, and La Glorieta,[39] +the latter, perhaps, the most classical, from the range of mountains +enclosing the rent in the mighty hills. + +The following detailed account of this battle I have taken from +the _History of Colorado_,[40] an admirable work: + + The sympathizers with and abettors of the Southern + Confederacy inaugurated their plans by posting handbills + in all conspicuous places between Denver and the + mining-camps, designating certain localities where the + highest prices would be paid for arms of every description, + and for powder, lead, shot, and percussion caps. + Simultaneously, a small force was collected and put under + discipline to co-operate with parties expected from Arkansas + and Texas who were to take possession, first of Colorado, + and subsequently of New Mexico, anticipating the easy + capture of the Federal troops and stores located there. + Being apprised of the movement, the governor immediately + decided to enlist a full regiment of volunteers. + John P. Slough was appointed colonel, Samuel F. Tappan + lieutenant-colonel, and John J. M. Chivington major. + + Without railroads or telegraphs nearer than the Missouri + River, and wholly dependent upon the overland mail coach + for communication with the States and the authorities at + Washington, news was at least a week old when received. + Thus the troops passed the time in a condition of doubt + and extreme anxiety, until the 6th of January, 1862, when + information arrived that an invading force under General + H. H. Sibley, from San Antonio, Texas, was approaching + the southern border of New Mexico, and had already captured + Forts Fillmore and Bliss, making prisoners of their + garrisons without firing a gun, and securing all their + stock and supplies. + + Immediately upon receipt of this intelligence, efforts + were made to obtain the consent of, or orders from, General + Hunter, commanding the department at Fort Leavenworth, + Kansas, for the regiment to go to the relief of General + Canby, then in command of the department of New Mexico. + On the 20th of February, orders came from General Hunter, + directing Colonel Slough and the First Regiment of Colorado + Volunteers to proceed with all possible despatch to + Fort Union, or Santa Fe, New Mexico, and report to General + Canby for service. + + Two days thereafter, the command marched out of Camp Weld + two miles up the Platte River, and in due time encamped + at Pueblo, on the Arkansas River. At this point further + advices were received from Canby, stating that he had + encountered the enemy at Valverde, ten miles north of + Fort Craig, but, owing to the inefficiency of the newly + raised New Mexican volunteers, was compelled to retire. + The Texans under Sibley marched on up the Rio Grande, + levying tribute upon the inhabitants for their support. + The Colorado troops were urged to the greatest possible + haste in reaching Fort Union, where they were to unite + with such regular troops as could be concentrated at that + post, and thus aid in saving the fort and its supplies + from falling into Confederate hands. Early on the + following morning the order was given to proceed to Union + by forced marches, and it is doubtful if the same number of + men ever marched a like distance in the same length of time. + + When the summit of Raton Pass was reached, another courier + from Canby met the command, who informed Colonel Slough + that the Texans had already captured Albuquerque and + Santa Fe with all the troops stationed at those places, + together with the supplies stored there, and that they + were then marching on Fort Union. + + Arriving at Red River about sundown, the regiment was + drawn up in line and this information imparted to the men. + The request was then made for all who were willing to + undertake a forced march at night to step two paces to + the front, when every man advanced to the new alignment. + After a hasty supper the march was resumed, and at sunrise + the next morning they reached Maxwell's Ranch on the + Cimarron, having made sixty-four miles in less than + twenty-four hours. At ten o'clock on the second night + thereafter, the command entered Fort Union. It was there + discovered that Colonel Paul, in charge of the post, had + mined the fort, giving orders for the removal of the women + and children, and was preparing to blow up all the supplies + and march to Fort Garland or some other post to the + northward, on the first approach of the Confederates. + + The troops remained at Union from the 13th to the 22d of + March, when by order of Colonel Slough they proceeded in + the direction of Santa Fe. The command consisted of + the First Colorado Volunteers; two Light Batteries, + one commanded by Captain Ritter and the other by Captain + Claflin; Ford's Company of Colorado Volunteers unattached; + two companies of the Fifth Regular Infantry; and two + companies of the Seventh United States Cavalry. + + The force encamped at Bernal Springs, where Colonel Slough + determined to organize a detachment to enter Santa Fe by + night with the view of surprising the enemy, spiking his + guns, and after doing what other damage could be accomplished + without bringing on a general action, falling back on the + main body. The detachment chosen comprised sixty men each + from Companies A, D, and E of the Colorado regiment, with + Company F of the same mounted, and thirty-seven men each + from the companies of Captains Ford and Howland, and of + the Seventh Cavalry, the whole commanded by Major Chivington. + + At sundown on the 25th of March it reached Kosloskie's Ranch, + where Major Chivington was informed that the enemy's pickets + were in the vicinity. He went into camp at once, and about + nine o'clock of the same evening sent out Lieutenant Nelson + of the First Colorado with thirty men of Company F, who + captured the Texan pickets while they were engaged in a game + of cards at Pigeon's Ranch, and before daylight on the + morning of the 26th, reported at camp with his prisoners. + After breakfast, the major, being apprised of the enemy's + whereabouts, proceeded cautiously, keeping his advance + guard well to the front. While passing near the summit + of the hill, the officer in command of the advance met + the Confederate advance, consisting of a first lieutenant + and thirty men, captured them without firing a gun, and + returning met the main body and turned them over to the + commanding officer. The Confederate lieutenant declared + that they had received no intimation of the advance from + Fort Union, but themselves expected to be there four days + later. + + Descending Apache Canyon for the distance of half a mile, + Chivington's force observed the approaching Texans, about + six hundred strong, with three pieces of artillery, who, + on discovering the Federals, halted, formed line and battery, + and opened fire. + + Chivington drew up his cavalry as a reserve under cover, + deployed Company D under Captain Downing to the right, + and Companies A and E under Captains Wynkoop and Anthony + to the left, directing them to ascend the mountain-side + until they were above the elevation of the enemy's artillery + and thus flank him, at the same time directing Captain + Howland, he being the ranking cavalry officer, to closely + observe the enemy, and when he retreated, without further + orders to charge with the cavalry. This disposition of + the troops proved wise and successful. The Texans soon + broke battery and retreated down the canyon a mile or more, + but from some cause Captain Howland failed to charge as + ordered, which enabled the Confederates to take up a new + and strong position, where they formed battery, threw their + supports well up the sides of the mountain, and again + opened fire. + + Chivington dismounted Captains Howland and Lord with their + regulars, leaving their horses in charge of every fourth + man, and ordered them to join Captain Downing on the left, + taking orders from him. Our skirmishers advanced, and, + flanking the enemy's supports, drove them pell-mell down + the mountain-side, when Captain Samuel Cook, with Company F, + First Colorado, having been signalled by the major, made + as gallant and successful a charge through the canyon, + through the ranks of the Confederates and back, as was + ever performed. Meanwhile, our infantry advanced rapidly; + when the enemy commenced his retreat a second time, they + were well ahead of him on the mountain-sides and poured + a galling fire into him, which thoroughly demoralized and + broke him up, compelling the entire body to seek shelter + among the rocks down the canyon and in some cabins that + stood by the wayside. + + After an hour spent in collecting the prisoners, and + caring for the wounded, both Federal and Confederate, + the latter having left in killed, wounded, and prisoners + a number equal to our whole force in the field, the first + baptism by fire of our volunteers terminated. The victory + was decided and complete. Night intervening, and there + being no water in the canyon, the little command fell back + to Pigeon's Ranch, whence a courier was despatched to + Colonel Slough, advising him of the engagement and its + result, and requesting him to bring forward the main + command as rapidly as possible, as the enemy with all his + forces had moved from Santa Fe toward Fort Union. + + After interring the dead and making a comfortable hospital + for the wounded, on the afternoon of the 27th Chivington + fell back to the Pecos River at Kosloskie's Ranch and + encamped. On receiving the news from Apache Canyon, + Colonel Slough put his forces in motion, and at eleven + o'clock at night of the 27th joined Chivington at Kosloskie's. + + At daybreak on the 28th, the assembly was sounded, and + the entire command resumed its march. Five miles out + from their encampment Major Chivington, in command of + a detachment composed of Companies A, B, H, and E of the + First Colorado, and Captain Ford's Company unattached, + with Captain Lewis' Company of the Fifth Regular Infantry, + was ordered to take the Galisteo road, and by a detour + through the mountains to gain the enemy's rear, if possible, + at the west end of Apache Canyon, while Slough advanced + slowly with the main body to gain his front about the + same time; thus devising an attack in front and rear. + + About ten o'clock, while making his way through the scrub + pine and cedar brush in the mountains, Major Chivington + and his command heard cannonading to their right, and + were thereby apprised that Colonel Slough and his men + had met the enemy. About twelve o'clock he arrived with + his men on the summit of the mountain which overlooked + the enemy's supply wagons, which had been left in the + charge of a strong guard with one piece of artillery mounted + on an elevation commanding the camp and mouth of the canyon. + With great difficulty Chivington descended the precipitous + mountain, charged, took, and spiked the gun, ran together + the enemy's supply wagons of commissary, quartermaster, + and ordnance stores, set them on fire, blew and burnt + them up, bayoneted his mules in corral, took the guard + prisoners and reascended the mountain, where about dark + he was met by Lieutenant Cobb, aide-de-camp on Colonel + Slough's staff, with the information that Slough and his + men had been defeated and had fallen back to Kosloskie's. + Upon the supposition that this information was correct, + Chivington, under the guidance of a French Catholic priest, + in the intensest darkness, with great difficulty made + his way with his command through the mountains without + a road or trail, and joined Colonel Slough about midnight. + + Meanwhile, after Chivington and his detachment had left + in the morning, Colonel Slough with the main body proceeded + up the canyon, and arriving at Pigeon's Ranch, gave orders + for the troops to stack arms in the road and supply their + canteens with water, as that would be the last opportunity + before reaching the further end of Apache Canyon. + While thus supplying themselves with water and visiting + the wounded in the hospital at Pigeon's Ranch, being + entirely off their guard, they were suddenly startled by + a courier from the advance column dashing down the road + at full speed and informing them that the enemy was close + at hand. Orders were immediately given to fall in and + take arms, but before the order could be obeyed the enemy + had formed battery and commenced shelling them. + They formed as quickly as possible, the colonel ordering + Captain Downing with Company D, First Colorado Volunteers, + to advance on the left, and Captain Kerber with Company I + First Colorado, to advance on the right. In the meantime + Ritter and Claflin opened a return fire on the enemy with + their batteries. Captain Downing advanced and fought + desperately, meeting a largely superior force in point + of numbers, until he was almost overpowered and surrounded; + when, happily, Captain Wilder of Company G of the First + Colorado, with a detachment of his command, came to his + relief, and extricated him and that portion of his Company + not already slaughtered. While on the opposite side, + the right, Company I had advanced into an open space, + feeling the enemy, and ambitious of capturing his battery, + when they were surprised by a detachment which was concealed + in an arroya, and which, when Kerber and his men were + within forty feet of it, opened a galling fire upon them. + Kerber lost heavily; Lieutenant Baker, being wounded, + fell back. In the meantime the enemy masked, and made + five successive charges on our batteries, determined to + capture them as they had captured Canby's at Valverde. + At one time they were within forty yards of Slough's + batteries, their slouch hats drawn down over their faces, + and rushing on with deafening yells. It seemed inevitable + that they would make the capture, when Captain Claflin + gave the order to cease firing, and Captain Samuel Robbins + with his company, K of the First Colorado, arose from the + ground like ghosts, delivering a galling fire, charged + bayonets, and on the double-quick put the rebels to flight. + + During the whole of this time the cavalry, under Captain + Howland, were held in reserve, never moving except to + fall back and keep out of danger, with the exception of + Captain Cook's men, who dismounted and fought as infantry. + From the opening of the battle to its close the odds were + against Colonel Slough and his forces; the enemy being + greatly superior in numbers, with a better armament of + artillery and equally well armed otherwise. But every inch + of ground was stubbornly contested. In no instance did + Slough's forces fall back until they were in danger of + being flanked and surrounded, and for nine hours, without + rest or refreshment, the battle raged incessantly. + At one time Claflin gave orders to double-shot his guns, + they being nothing but little brass howitzers, and he + counted, "One, two, three, four," until one of his own + carriages capsized and fell down into the gulch; from which + place Captain Samuel Robbins and his company, K, extricated + it and saved it from falling into the enemy's hands. + + Having been compelled to give ground all day, Colonel Slough, + between five and six o'clock in the afternoon, issued + orders to retreat. About the same time General Sibley + received information from the rear of the destruction of + his supply trains, and ordered a flag of truce to be sent + to Colonel Slough, which did not reach him, however, until + he arrived at Kosloskie's. A truce was entered into until + nine o'clock the next morning, which was afterward extended + to twenty-four hours, and under which Sibley with his + demoralized forces fell back to Santa Fe, laying that town + under tribute to supply his forces. + + The 29th was spent in burying the dead, as well as those + of the Confederates which they left on the field, and + caring for the wounded. Orders were received from General + Canby directing Colonel Slough to fall back to Fort Union, + which so incensed him that while obeying the order he + forwarded his resignation, and soon after left the command. + +Thus ended the battle of La Glorieta. + + + + +CHAPTER XII.[41] +THE BUFFALO. + + + +The ancient range of the buffalo, according to history and tradition, +once extended from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains, embracing +all that magnificent portion of North America known as the Mississippi +valley; from the frozen lakes above to the "Tierras Calientes" of +Mexico, far to the south. + +It seems impossible, especially to those who have seen them, as +numerous, apparently, as the sands of the seashore, feeding on the +illimitable natural pastures of the great plains, that the buffalo +should have become almost extinct. + +When I look back only twenty-five years, and recall the fact that +they roamed in immense numbers even then, as far east as Fort Harker, +in Central Kansas, a little more than two hundred miles from the +Missouri River, I ask myself, "Have they all disappeared?" + +An idea may be formed of how many buffalo were killed from 1868 to +1881, a period of only thirteen years, during which time they were +indiscriminately slaughtered for their hides. In Kansas alone +there was paid out, between the dates specified, two million five +hundred thousand dollars for their bones gathered on the prairies, +to be utilized by the various carbon works of the country, principally +in St. Louis. It required about one hundred carcasses to make one +ton of bones, the price paid averaging eight dollars a ton; so the +above-quoted enormous sum represented the skeletons of over thirty-one +millions of buffalo.[42] These figures may appear preposterous to +readers not familiar with the great plains a third of a century ago; +but to those who have seen the prairie black from horizon to horizon +with the shaggy monsters, they are not so. In the autumn of 1868 +I rode with Generals Sheridan, Custer, Sully, and others, for three +consecutive days, through one continuous herd, which must have +contained millions. In the spring of 1869 the train on the Kansas +Pacific Railroad was delayed at a point between Forts Harker and +Hays, from nine o'clock in the morning until five in the afternoon, +in consequence of the passage of an immense herd of buffalo across +the track. On each side of us, and to the west as far as we could +see, our vision was only limited by the extended horizon of the flat +prairie, and the whole vast area was black with the surging mass +of affrighted buffaloes as they rushed onward to the south. + +In 1868 the Union Pacific Railroad and its branch in Kansas was nearly +completed across the plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, +the western limit of the buffalo range, and that year witnessed +the beginning of the wholesale and wanton slaughter of the great +ruminants, which ended only with their practical extinction seventeen +years afterward. The causes of this hecatomb of animals on the +great plains were the incursion of regular hunters into the region, +for the hides of the buffalo, and the crowds of tourists who crossed +the continent for the mere pleasure and novelty of the trip. +The latter class heartlessly killed for the excitement of the +new experience as they rode along in the cars at a low rate of speed, +often never touching a particle of the flesh of their victims, +or possessing themselves of a single robe. The former, numbering +hundreds of old frontiersmen, all expert shots, with thousands of +novices, the pioneer settlers on the public domain, just opened +under the various land laws, from beyond the Platte to far south +of the Arkansas, within transporting distance of two railroads, +day after day for years made it a lucrative business to kill for +the robes alone, a market for which had suddenly sprung up all over +the country. + +On either side of the track of the two lines of railroads running +through Kansas and Nebraska, within a relatively short distance +and for nearly their whole length, the most conspicuous objects +in those days were the desiccated carcasses of the noble beasts +that had been ruthlessly slaughtered by the thoughtless and excited +passengers on their way across the continent. On the open prairie, +too, miles away from the course of legitimate travel, in some places +one could walk all day on the dead bodies of the buffaloes killed +by the hide-hunters, without stepping off them to the ground. + +The best robes, in their relation to thickness of fur and lustre, +were those taken during the winter months, particularly February, +at which period the maximum of density and beauty had been reached. +Then, notwithstanding the sudden and fitful variations of temperature +incident to our mid-continent climate, the old hunters were especially +active, and accepted unusual risks to procure as many of the coveted +skins as possible. A temporary camp would be established under +the friendly shelter of some timbered stream, from which the hunters +would radiate every morning, and return at night after an arduous +day's work, to smoke their pipes and relate their varied adventures +around the fire of blazing logs. + +Sometimes when far away from camp a blizzard would come down from +the north in all its fury without ten minutes' warning, and in a +few seconds the air, full of blinding snow, precluded the possibility +of finding their shelter, an attempt at which would only result +in an aimless circular march on the prairie. On such occasions, +to keep from perishing by the intense cold, they would kill a buffalo, +and, taking out its viscera, creep inside the huge cavity, enough +animal heat being retained until the storm had sufficiently abated +for them to proceed with safety to their camp. + +Early in March, 1867, a party of my friends, all old buffalo hunters, +were camped in Paradise valley, then a famous rendezvous of the +animals they were after. One day when out on the range stalking, +and widely separated from each other, a terrible blizzard came up. +Three of the hunters reached their camp without much difficulty, +but he who was farthest away was fairly caught in it, and night +overtaking him, he was compelled to resort to the method described +in the preceding paragraph. Luckily, he soon came up with a +superannuated bull that had been abandoned by the herd; so he killed +him, took out his viscera and crawled inside the empty carcass, where +he lay comparatively comfortable until morning broke, when the storm +had passed over and the sun shone brightly. But when he attempted +to get out, he found himself a prisoner, the immense ribs of the +creature having frozen together, and locked him up as tightly as if +he were in a cell. Fortunately, his companions, who were searching +for him, and firing their rifles from time to time, heard him yell +in response to the discharge of their pieces, and thus discovered and +released him from the peculiar predicament into which he had fallen. + +At another time, several years before the acquisition of New Mexico +by the United States, two old trappers were far up on the Arkansas +near the Trail, in the foot-hills hunting buffalo, and they, as is +generally the case, became separated. In an hour or two one of them +killed a fat young cow, and, leaving his rifle on the ground, went up +and commenced to skin her. While busily engaged in his work, +he suddenly heard right behind him a suppressed snort, and looking +around he saw to his dismay a monstrous grizzly ambling along in +that animal's characteristic gait, within a few feet of him. + +In front, only a few rods away, there happened to be a clump of +scrubby pines, and he incontinently made a break for them, climbing +into the tallest in less time than it takes to tell of it. The bear +deliberately ate a hearty meal off the juicy hams of the cow, +so providentially fallen in his way, and when he had satiated himself, +instead of going away, he quietly stretched himself alongside of +the half-devoured carcass, and went to sleep, keeping one eye open, +however, on the movements of the unlucky hunter whom he had corralled +in the tree. In the early evening his partner came to the spot, +and killed the impudent bear, that, being full of tender buffalo meat, +was sluggish and unwary, and thus became an easy victim to the +unerring rifle; when the unwilling prisoner came down from his perch +in the pine, feeling sheepish enough. The last time I saw him he +told me he still had the bear's hide, which he religiously preserved +as a memento of his foolishness in separating himself from his rifle, +a thing he has never been guilty of before or since. + +Kit Carson, when with Fremont on his first exploring expedition, +while hunting for the command, at some point on the Arkansas, +left a buffalo which he had just killed and partly cut up, to pursue +a large bull that came rushing by him alone. He chased his game +for nearly a quarter of a mile, not being able, however, to gain +on it rapidly, owing to the blown condition of his horse. Coming up +at length to the side of the fleeing beast, Carson fired, but at the +same instant his horse stepped into a prairie-dog hole, fell down +and threw Kit fully fifteen feet over his head. The bullet struck +the buffalo low under the shoulder, which only served to enrage him +so that the next moment the infuriated animal was pursuing Kit, +who, fortunately not much hurt, was able to run toward the river. +It was a race for life now, Carson using his nimble legs to the +utmost of their capacity, accelerated very much by the thundering, +bellowing bull bringing up the rear. For several minutes it was +nip and tuck which should reach the stream first, but Kit got there +by a scratch a little ahead. It was a big bend of the river, and +the water was deep under the bank, but it was paradise compared +with the hades plunging at his back; so Kit leaped into the water, +trusting to Providence that the bull would not follow. The trust +was well placed, for the bull did not continue the pursuit, but stood +on the bank and shook his head vehemently at the struggling hunter +who had preferred deep waves to the horns of a dilemma on shore. + +Kit swam around for some time, carefully guarded by the bull, until +his position was observed by one of his companions, who attacked +the belligerent animal successfully with a forty-four slug, and then +Kit crawled out and--skinned the enemy! + +He once killed five buffaloes during a single race, and used but +four balls, having dismounted and cut the bullet from the wound +of the fourth, and thus continued the chase. He it was, too, who +established his reputation as a famous hunter by shooting a buffalo +cow during an impetuous race down a steep hill, discharging his rifle +just as the animal was leaping on one of the low cedars peculiar +to the region. The ball struck a vital spot, and the dead cow +remained in the jagged branches. The Indians who were with him +on that hunt looked upon the circumstance as something beyond their +comprehension, and insisted that Kit should leave the carcass in +the tree as "Big Medicine." Katzatoa (Smoked Shield), a celebrated +chief of the Kiowas many years ago, who was over seven feet tall, +never mounted a horse when hunting the buffalo; he always ran after +them on foot and killed them with his lance. + +Two Lance, another famous chief, could shoot an arrow entirely +through a buffalo while hunting on horseback. He accomplished this +remarkable feat in the presence of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, +who was under the care of Buffalo Bill, near Fort Hays, Kansas. + +During one of Fremont's expeditions, two of his chasseurs, named +Archambeaux and La Jeunesse,[43] had a curious adventure on a +buffalo-hunt. One of them was mounted on a mule, the other on +a horse; they came in sight of a large band of buffalo feeding upon +the open prairie about a mile distant. The mule was not fleet enough, +and the horse was too much fatigued with the day's journey, to justify +a race, and they concluded to approach the herd on foot. Dismounting +and securing the ends of their lariats in the ground, they made +a slight detour, to take advantage of the wind, and crept stealthily +in the direction of the game, approaching unperceived until within +a few hundred yards. Some old bulls forming the outer picket guard +slowly raised their heads and gazed long and dubiously at the strange +objects, when, discovering that the intruders were not wolves, but two +hunters, they gave a significant grunt, turned about as though on +pivots, and in less than no time the whole herd--bulls, cows, and +calves--were making the gravel fly over the prairie in fine style, +leaving the hunters to their discomfiture. They had scarcely +recovered from their surprise, when, to their great consternation, +they beheld the whole company of the monsters, numbering several +thousand, suddenly shape their course to where the riding animals +were picketed. The charge of the stampeded buffalo was a magnificent +one; for the buffalo, mistaking the horse and the mule for two of +their own species, came down upon them like a tornado. A small cloud +of dust arose for a moment over the spot where the hunter's animals +had been left; the black mass moved on with accelerated speed, and +in a few seconds the horizon shut them all from view. The horse +and mule, with all their trappings, saddles, bridles, and holsters, +were never seen or heard of afterward. + +Buffalo Bill, in less than eighteen months, while employed as hunter +of the construction company of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, in 1867-68, +killed nearly five thousand buffalo, which were consumed by the +twelve hundred men employed in track-laying. He tells in his +autobiography of the following remarkable experience he had at one +time with his favourite horse Brigham, on an impromptu buffalo hunt:-- + + One day we were pushed for horses to work on our scrapers, + so I hitched up Brigham, to see how he would work. He was + not much used to that kind of labour, and I was about giving + up the idea of making a work horse of him, when one of the + men called to me that there were some buffaloes coming over + the hill. As there had been no buffaloes seen anywhere + in the vicinity of the camp for several days, we had become + rather short of meat. I immediately told one of our men + to hitch his horses to a wagon and follow me, as I was going + out after the herd, and we would bring back some fresh meat + for supper. I had no saddle, as mine had been left at camp + a mile distant, so taking the harness from Brigham I mounted + him bareback, and started out after the game, being armed + with my celebrated buffalo killer Lucretia Borgia--a newly + improved breech-loading needle-gun, which I had obtained + from the government. + + While I was riding toward the buffaloes, I observed five + horsemen coming out from the fort, who had evidently seen + the buffaloes from the post, and were going out for a chase. + They proved to be some newly arrived officers in that part + of the country, and when they came up closer I could see + by the shoulder-straps that the senior was a captain, + while the others were lieutenants. + + "Hello! my friend," sang out the captain; "I see you are + after the same game we are." + + "Yes, sir; I saw those buffaloes coming over the hill, + and as we were about out of fresh meat I thought I would + go and get some," said I. + + They scanned my cheap-looking outfit pretty closely, and + as my horse was not very prepossessing in appearance, having + on only a blind bridle, and otherwise looking like a work + horse, they evidently considered me a green hand at hunting. + + "Do you expect to catch those buffaloes on that Gothic + steed?" laughingly asked the captain. + + "I hope so, by pushing on the reins hard enough," was + my reply. + + "You'll never catch them in the world, my fine fellow," + said the captain. "It requires a fast horse to overtake + the animals on the prairie." + + "Does it?" asked I, as if I didn't know it. + + "Yes; but come along with us, as we are going to kill them + more for pleasure than anything else. All we want are the + tongues and a piece of tenderloin, and you may have all + that is left," said the generous man. + + "I am much obliged to you, captain, and will follow you," + I replied. + + There were eleven buffaloes in the herd, and they were not + more than a mile ahead of us. The officers dashed on as if + they had a sure thing on killing them all before I could + come up with them; but I had noticed that the herd was + making toward the creek for water, and as I knew buffalo + nature, I was perfectly aware that it would be difficult + to turn them from their direct course. Thereupon, I started + toward the creek to head them off, while the officers + came up in the rear and gave chase. + + The buffaloes came rushing past me not a hundred yards + distant, with the officers about three hundred yards in + the rear. Now, thought I, is the time to "get my work in," + as they say; and I pulled off the blind bridle from my + horse, who knew as well as I did that we were out after + buffaloes, as he was a trained hunter. The moment the + bridle was off he started at the top of his speed, running + in ahead of the officers, and with a few jumps he brought me + alongside the rear buffalo. Raising old Lucretia Borgia + to my shoulder, I fired, and killed the animal at the + first shot. My horse then carried me alongside the next + one, not ten feet away, and I dropped him at the next fire. + + As soon as one of the buffalo would fall, Brigham would + take me so close to the next that I could almost touch it + with my gun. In this manner I killed the eleven buffaloes + with twelve shots; and as the last animal dropped, my horse + stopped. I jumped off to the ground, knowing that he would + not leave me--it must be remembered that I had been riding + him without bridle, reins, or saddle--and, turning around + as the party of astonished officers rode up, I said to them:-- + + "Now, gentlemen, allow me to present to you all the tongues + and tenderloins you wish from these buffaloes." + + Captain Graham, for such I soon learned was his name, + replied: "Well, I never saw the like before. Who under + the sun are you, anyhow?" + + "My name is Cody," said I. + + Captain Graham, who was considerable of a horseman, + greatly admired Brigham, and said: "That horse of yours + has running points." + + "Yes, sir; he has not only got the points, he is a runner + and knows how to use the points," said I. + + "So I noticed," said the captain. + + They all finally dismounted, and we continued chatting + for some little time upon the different subjects of horses, + buffaloes, hunting, and Indians. They felt a little sore + at not getting a single shot at the buffaloes; but the way + I had killed them, they said, amply repaid them for their + disappointment. They had read of such feats in books, + but this was the first time they had ever seen anything + of the kind with their own eyes. It was the first time, + also, that they had ever witnessed or heard of a white man + running buffaloes on horseback without a saddle or bridle. + + I told them that Brigham knew nearly as much about the + business as I did, and if I had twenty bridles they would + have been of no use to me, as he understood everything, + and all that he expected of me was to do the shooting. + It is a fact that Brigham would stop if a buffalo did not + fall at the first fire, so as to give me a second chance; + but if I did not kill the animal then, he would go on, as + if to say, "You are no good, and I will not fool away my + time by giving you more than two shots." Brigham was the + best horse I ever saw or owned for buffalo chasing. + +At one time an old, experienced buffalo hunter was following at the +heels of a small herd with that reckless rush to which in the +excitement of the chase men abandon themselves, when a great bull +just in front of him tumbled into a ravine. The rider's horse fell +also, throwing the old hunter over his head sprawling, but with +strange accuracy right between the bull's horns! The first to +recover from the terrible shock and to regain his legs was the horse, +which ran off with wonderful alacrity several miles before he stopped. +Next the bull rose, and shook himself with an astonished air, as if +he would like to know "how that was done?" The hunter was on the +great brute's back, who, perhaps, took the affair as a good practical +joke; but he was soon pitched to the ground, as the buffalo commenced +to jump "stiff-legged," and the latter, giving the hunter one +lingering look, which he long remembered, with remarkable good nature +ran off to join his companions. Had the bull been wounded, the rider +would have been killed, as the then enraged animal would have gored +and trampled him to death. + +An officer of the old regular army told me many years ago that in +crossing the plains a herd of buffalo were fired at by a twelve-pound +howitzer, the ball of which wounded and stunned an immense bull. +Nevertheless, heedless of a hundred shots that had been fired at him, +and of a bulldog belonging to one of the officers, which had fastened +himself to his lips, the enraged beast charged upon the whole troop +of dragoons, and tossed one of the horses like a feather. Bull, +horse, and rider all fell in a heap. Before the dust cleared away, +the trooper, who had hung for a moment to one of the bull's horns +by his waistband, crawled out safe, while the horse got a ball from +a rifle through his neck while in the air and two great rips in his +flank from the bull. + +In 1839 Kit Carson and Hobbs were trapping with a party on the +Arkansas River, not far from Bent's Fort. Among the trappers was +a green Irishman, named O'Neil, who was quite anxious to become +proficient in hunting, and it was not long before he received his +first lesson. Every man who went out of camp after game was expected +to bring in "meat" of some kind. O'Neil said that he would agree +to the terms, and was ready one evening to start out on his first +hunt alone. He picked up his rifle and stalked after a small herd +of buffalo in plain sight on the prairie not more than five or six +hundred yards from camp. + +All the trappers who were not engaged in setting their traps or +cooking supper were watching O'Neil. Presently they heard the report +of his rifle, and shortly after he came running into camp, bareheaded, +without his gun, and with a buffalo bull close upon his heels; +both going at full speed, and the Irishman shouting like a madman,-- + +"Here we come, by jabers. Stop us! For the love of God, stop us!" + +Just as they came in among the tents, with the bull not more than +six feet in the rear of O'Neil, who was frightened out of his wits +and puffing like a locomotive, his foot caught in a tent-rope, and +over he went into a puddle of water head foremost, and in his fall +capsized several camp-kettles, some of which contained the trappers' +supper. But the buffalo did not escape so easily; for Hobbs and +Kit Carson jumped for their rifles, and dropped the animal before +he had done any further damage. + +The whole outfit laughed heartily at O'Neil when he got up out of +the water, for a party of old trappers would show no mercy to any +of their companions who met with a mishap of that character; but +as he stood there with dripping clothes and face covered with mud, +his mother-wit came to his relief and he declared he had accomplished +the hunter's task: "For sure," said he, "haven't I fetched the mate +into camp? and there was no bargain whether it should be dead or alive!" + +Upon Kit's asking O'Neil where his gun was,-- + +"Sure," said he, "that's more than I can tell you." + +Next morning Carson and Hobbs took up O'Neil's tracks and the +buffalo's, and after hunting an hour or so found the Irishman's rifle, +though he had little use for it afterward, as he preferred to cook +and help around camp rather than expose his precious life fighting +buffaloes. + +A great herd of buffaloes on the plains in the early days, when one +could approach near enough without disturbing it to quietly watch +its organization and the apparent discipline which its leaders seemed +to exact, was a very curious sight. Among the striking features +of the spectacle was the apparently uniform manner in which the +immense mass of shaggy animals moved; there was constancy of action +indicating a degree of intelligence to be found only in the most +intelligent of the brute creation. Frequently the single herd was +broken up into many smaller ones, that travelled relatively close +together, each led by an independent master. Perhaps a few rods +only marked the dividing-line between them, but it was always +unmistakably plain, and each moved synchronously in the direction +in which all were going. + +The leadership of a herd was attained only by hard struggles for the +place; once reached, however, the victor was immediately recognized, +and kept his authority until some new aspirant overcame him, or he +became superannuated and was driven out of the herd to meet his +inevitable fate, a prey to those ghouls of the desert, the gray wolves. + +In the event of a stampede, every animal of the separate, yet +consolidated, herds rushed off together, as if they had all gone mad +at once; for the buffalo, like the Texas steer, mule, or domestic +horse, stampedes on the slightest provocation; frequently without +any assignable cause. The simplest affair, sometimes, will start +the whole herd; a prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, +a shadow of one of themselves or that of a passing cloud, is +sufficient to make them run for miles as if a real and dangerous +enemy were at their heels. + +Like an army, a herd of buffaloes put out vedettes to give the alarm +in case anything beyond the ordinary occurred. These sentinels were +always to be seen in groups of four, five, or even six, at some +distance from the main body. When they perceived something approaching +that the herd should beware of or get away from, they started on +a run directly for the centre of the great mass of their peacefully +grazing congeners. Meanwhile, the young bulls were on duty as +sentinels on the edge of the main herd watching the vedettes; +the moment the latter made for the centre, the former raised their +heads, and in the peculiar manner of their species gazed all around +and sniffed the air as if they could smell both the direction and +source of the impending danger. Should there be something which their +instinct told them to guard against, the leader took his position +in front, the cows and calves crowded in the centre, while the rest +of the males gathered on the flanks and in the rear, indicating +a gallantry that might be emulated at times by the genus homo. + +Generally buffalo went to their drinking-places but once a day, and +that late in the afternoon. Then they ambled along, following each +other in single file, which accounts for the many trails on the +plains, always ending at some stream or lake. They frequently +travelled twenty or thirty miles for water, so the trails leading +to it were often worn to the depth of a foot or more. + +That curious depression so frequently seen on the great plains, +called a buffalo-wallow, is caused in this wise: The huge animals +paw and lick the salty, alkaline earth, and when once the sod is +broken the loose dirt drifts away under the constant action of +the wind. Then, year after year, through more pawing, licking, +rolling, and wallowing by the animals, the wind wafts more of the +soil away, and soon there is a considerable hole in the prairie. + +Many an old trapper and hunter's life has been saved by following +a buffalo-trail when he was suffering from thirst. The buffalo-wallows +retain usually a great quantity of water, and they have often saved +the lives of whole companies of cavalry, both men and horses. + +There was, however, a stranger and more wonderful spectacle to be seen +every recurring spring during the reign of the buffalo, soon after +the grass had started. There were circles trodden bare on the plains, +thousands, yes, millions of them, which the early travellers, who did +not divine their cause, called fairy-rings. From the first of April +until the middle of May was the wet season; you could depend upon its +recurrence almost as certainly as on the sun and moon rising at their +proper time. This was also the calving period of the buffalo, as +they, unlike our domestic cattle, only rutted during a single month; +consequently, the cows all calved during a certain time; this was the +wet month, and as there were a great many gray wolves that roamed +singly and in immense packs over the whole prairie region, the bulls, +in their regular beats, kept guard over the cows while in the act +of parturition, and drove the wolves away, walking in a ring around +the females at a short distance, and thus forming the curious circles. + +In every herd at each recurring season there were always ambitious +young bulls that came to their majority, so to speak, and these were +ever ready to test their claims for the leadership, so that it may +be safely stated that a month rarely passed without a bloody battle +between them for the supremacy; though, strangely enough, the struggle +scarcely ever resulted in the death of either combatant. + +Perhaps there is no animal in which maternal love is so wonderfully +developed as the buffalo cow; she is as dangerous with a calf by +her side as a she-grizzly with cubs, as all old mountaineers know. + +The buffalo bull that has outlived his usefulness is one of the most +pitiable objects in the whole range of natural history. Old age +has probably been decided in the economy of buffalo life as the +unpardonable sin. Abandoned to his fate, he may be discovered, +in his dreary isolation, near some stream or lake, where it does not +tax him too severely to find good grass; for he is now feeble, and +exertion an impossibility. In this new stage of his existence he +seems to have completely lost his courage. Frightened at his own +shadow, or the rustling of a leaf, he is the very incarnation of +nervousness and suspicion. Gregarious in his habits from birth, +solitude, foreign to his whole nature, has changed him into a new +creature; and his inherent terror of the most trivial things is +intensified to such a degree that if a man were compelled to undergo +such constant alarm, it would probably drive him insane in less than +a week. Nobody ever saw one of these miserable and helplessly +forlorn creatures dying a natural death, or ever heard of such an +occurrence. The cowardly coyote and the gray wolf had already +marked him for their own; and they rarely missed their calculations. + +Riding suddenly to the top of a divide once with a party of friends +in 1866, we saw standing below us in the valley an old buffalo bull, +the very picture of despair. Surrounding him were seven gray wolves +in the act of challenging him to mortal combat. The poor beast, +undoubtedly realizing the utter hopelessness of his situation, +had determined to die game. His great shaggy head, filled with burrs, +was lowered to the ground as he confronted his would-be executioners; +his tongue, black and parched, lolled out of his mouth, and he gave +utterance at intervals to a suppressed roar. + +The wolves were sitting on their haunches in a semi-circle immediately +in front of the tortured beast, and every time that the fear-stricken +buffalo would give vent to his hoarsely modulated groan, the wolves +howled in concert in most mournful cadence. + +After contemplating his antagonists for a few moments, the bull made +a dash at the nearest wolf, tumbling him howling over the silent +prairie; but while this diversion was going on in front, the remainder +of the pack started for his hind legs, to hamstring him. Upon this +the poor brute turned to the point of attack only to receive a +repetition of it in the same vulnerable place by the wolves, who had +as quickly turned also and fastened themselves on his heels again. +His hind quarters now streamed with blood and he began to show signs +of great physical weakness. He did not dare to lie down; that would +have been instantly fatal. By this time he had killed three of the +wolves or so maimed them that they were entirely out of the fight. + +At this juncture the suffering animal was mercifully shot, and the +wolves allowed to batten on his thin and tough carcass. + +Often there are serious results growing out of a stampede, either by +mules or a herd of buffalo. A portion of the Fifth United States +Infantry had a narrow escape from a buffalo stampede on the Old Trail, +in the early summer of 1866. General George A. Sykes, who commanded +the Division of Regulars in the Army of the Potomac during the +Civil War, was ordered to join his regiment, stationed in New Mexico, +and was conducting a body of recruits, with their complement of +officers, to fill up the decimated ranks of the army stationed at +the various military posts, in far-off Greaser Land. + +The command numbered nearly eight hundred, including the subaltern +officers. These recruits, or the majority of them at least, were +recruits in name only; they had seen service in many a hard campaign +of the Rebellion. Some, of course, were beardless youths just out +of their teens, full of that martial ardour which induced so many +young men of the nation to follow the drum on the remote plains and +in the fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains, where the wily savages +still held almost undisputed sway, and were a constant menace to +the pioneer settlers. + +One morning, when the command had just settled itself in careless +repose on the short grass of the apparently interminable prairie +at the first halt of the day's march, a short distance beyond +Fort Larned, a strange noise, like the low muttering of thunder +below the horizon, greeted the ears of the little army. + +All were startled by the ominous sound, unlike anything they had +heard before on their dreary tour. The general ordered his scouts +out to learn the cause; could it be Indians? Every eye was strained +for something out of the ordinary. Even the horses of the officers +and the mules of the supply-train were infected by something that +seemed impending; they grew restless, stamped the earth, and vainly +essayed to stampede, but were prevented by their hobbles and +picket-pins. + +Presently one of the scouts returned from over the divide, and +reported to the general that an immense herd of buffalo was tearing +down toward the Trail, and from the great clouds of dust they raised, +which obscured the horizon, there must have been ten thousand of them. +The roar wafted to the command, and which seemed so mysterious, +was made by their hoofs as they rattled over the dry prairie. + +The sound increased in volume rapidly, and soon a black, surging mass +was discovered bearing right down on the Trail. Behind it could be +seen a cavalcade of about five hundred Cheyennes, Comanches, and +Kiowas, who had maddened the shaggy brutes, hoping to capture the +train without an attack by forcing the frightened animals to overrun +the command. + +Luckily, something caused the herd to open before it reached the +foot of the divide, and it passed in two masses, leaving the command +between, not two hundred feet from either division of the infuriated +beasts. + +The rage of the savages was evident when they saw that their attempt +to annihilate the troops had failed, and they rode off sullenly into +the sand hills, as the number of soldiers was too great for them +to think of charging. + +Cody tells of a buffalo stampede which he witnessed in his youth +on the plains, when he was a wagon-master. The caravan was on its +way with government stores for the military posts in the mountains, +and the wagons were hauled by oxen. + +He says: + The country was alive with buffalo, and besides killing + quite a number we had a rare day for sport. One morning + we pulled out of camp, and the train was strung out to a + considerable length along the Trail, which ran near the foot + of the sand hills, two miles from the river. Between the + road and the river we saw a large herd of buffalo grazing + quietly, they having been down to the stream to drink. + Just at this time we observed a party of returning + Californians coming from the west. They, too, noticed + the buffalo herd, and in another moment they were dashing + down upon them, urging their horses to their greatest speed. + The buffalo herd stampeded at once, and broke down the sides + of the hills; so hotly were they pursued by the hunters + that about five hundred of them rushed pell-mell through + our caravan, frightening both men and oxen. Some of the + wagons were turned clear around and many of the terrified + oxen attempted to run to the hills with the heavy wagons + attached to them. Others were turned around so short + that they broke the tongues off. Nearly all the teams + got entangled in their gearing and became wild and unruly, + so that the perplexed drivers were unable to manage them. + + The buffalo, the cattle, and the men were soon running + in every direction, and the excitement upset everybody + and everything. Many of the oxen broke their yokes and + stampeded. One big buffalo bull became entangled in one + of the heavy wagon-chains, and it is a fact that in his + desperate efforts to free himself, he not only snapped + the strong chain in two, but broke the ox-yoke to which + it was attached, and the last seen of him he was running + toward the hills with it hanging from his horns. + +Stampedes were a great source of profit to the Indians of the plains. +The Comanches were particularly expert and daring in this kind of +robbery. They even trained their horses to run from one point to +another in expectation of the coming of the trains. When a camp +was made that was nearly in range, they turned their trained animals +loose, which at once flew across the prairie, passing through the +herd and penetrating the very corrals of their victims. All of the +picketed horses and mules would endeavour to follow these decoys, +and were invariably led right into the haunts of the Indians, +who easily secured them. Young horses and mules were easily +frightened; and, in the confusion which generally ensued, great +injury was frequently done to the runaways themselves. + +At times when the herd was very large, the horses scattered over +the prairie and were irrevocably lost; and such as did not become +wild fell a prey to the wolves. That fate was very frequently the +lot of stampeded horses bred in the States, they not having been +trained by a prairie life to take care of themselves. Instead of +stopping and bravely fighting off the blood-thirsty beasts, they +would run. Then the whole pack were sure to leave the bolder animals +and make for the runaways, which they seldom failed to overtake +and despatch. + +On the Old Trail some years ago one of these stampedes occurred of +a band of government horses, in which were several valuable animals. +It was attended, however, with very little loss, through the courage +and great exertion of the men who had them in charge; many were +recovered, but none without having sustained injuries. + +Hon. R. M. Wright, of Dodge City, Kansas, one of the pioneers in +the days of the Santa Fe trade, and in the settlement of the State, +has had many exciting experiences both with the savages of the great +plains, and the buffalo. In relation to the habits of the latter, +no man is better qualified to speak. + +He was once owner of Fort Aubrey, a celebrated point on the Trail, +but was compelled to abandon it on account of constant persecution +by the Indians, or rather he was ordered to do so by the military +authorities. While occupying the once famous landmark, in connection +with others, had a contract to furnish hay to the government at +Fort Lyon, seventy-five miles further west. His journal, which he +kindly placed at my disposal, says: + + While we were preparing to commence the work, a vast herd + of buffalo stampeded through our range one night, and + took off with them about half of our work cattle. The next + day a stage-driver and conductor on the Overland Route told + us they had seen a number of our oxen twenty-five miles east + of Aubrey, and this information gave me an idea in which + direction to hunt for the missing beasts. I immediately + started after them, while my partner took those that + remained and a few wagons and left with them for Fort Lyon. + + Let me explain here that while the Indians were supposed to + be peaceable, small war-parties of young men, who could not + be controlled by their chiefs, were continually committing + depredations, and the main body of savages themselves were + very uneasy, and might be expected to break out any day. + In consequence of this unsettled state of affairs, there + had been a brisk movement among the United States troops + stationed at the various military posts, a large number of + whom were believed to be on the road from Denver to Fort Lyon. + + I filled my saddle-bags with jerked buffalo, hardtack and + ground coffee, and took with me a belt of cartridges, + my rifle and six-shooter, a field-glass and my blankets, + prepared for any emergency. The first day out, I found a + few of the lost cattle, and placed them on the river-bottom, + which I continued to do as fast as I recovered them, for a + distance of about eighty-five miles down the Arkansas. + There I met a wagon-train, the drivers of which told me + that I would find several more of my oxen with a train + that had arrived at the Cimarron crossing the day before. + I came up with this train in eight or ten hours' travel + south of the river, got my cattle, and started next morning + for home. + + I picked up those I had left on the Arkansas as I went + along, and after having made a very hard day's travel, + about sundown I concluded I would go into camp. I had + only fairly halted when the oxen began to drop down, + so completely tired out were they, as I believed. Just as + it was growing dark, I happened to look toward the west, + and I saw several fires on a big island, near what was + called "The Lone Tree," about a mile from where I had + determined to remain for the night. + + Thinking the fires were those of the soldiers that I had + heard were on the road from Denver, and anticipating and + longing for a cup of good coffee, as I had had none for + five days, knowing, too, that the troops would be full of + news, I felt good and determined to go over to their camp. + + The Arkansas was low, but the banks steep, with high, + rank grass growing to the very water's edge. I found + a buffalo-trail cut through the deep bank, narrow and + precipitous, and down this I went, arriving in a short time + within a little distance of my supposed soldiers' camp. + When I had reached the middle of another deep cut in the + bank, I looked across to the island, and, great Caesar! + saw a hundred little fires, around which an aggregation + of a thousand Indians were huddled! + + I slid backwards off my horse, and by dint of great exertion, + worked him up the river-bank as quietly and quickly as + possible, then led him gently away out on the prairie. + My first impulse was not to go back to the cattle; but as + we needed them very badly, I concluded to return, put them + all on their feet, and light out mighty lively, without + making any noise. I started them, and, oh dear! I was + afraid to tread upon a weed, lest it would snap and bring + the Indians down on my trail. Until I had put several + miles between them and me, I could not rest easy for + a moment. Tired as I was, tired as were both my horse + and the cattle, I drove them twenty-five miles before + I halted. Then daylight was upon me. I was at what is + known as Chouteau's Island, a once famous place in the + days of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + + Of course, I had to let the oxen and my horse rest and fill + themselves until the afternoon, and I lay down, and fell + asleep, but did not sleep long, as I thought it dangerous + to remain too near the cattle. I rose and walked up a big, + dry sand creek that opened into the river, and after I had + ascended it for a couple of miles, found the banks very + steep; in fact, they rose to a height of eighteen or twenty + feet, and were sharply cut up by narrow trails made by + the buffalo. + + The whole face of the earth was covered by buffalo, and + they were slowly grazing toward the Arkansas. All at once + they became frightened at something, and stampeded pell-mell + toward the very spot on which I stood. I quickly ran into + one of the precipitous little paths and up on the prairie, + to see what had scared them. They were making the ground + fairly tremble as their mighty multitude came rushing on + at full speed, the sound of their hoofs resembling thunder, + but in a continuous peal. It appeared to me that they must + sweep everything in their path, and for my own preservation + I rushed under the creek-bank, but on they came like a + tornado, with one old bull in the lead. He held up a second + to descend the narrow trail, and when he had got about + halfway down I let him have it; I was only a few steps from + him and over he tumbled. I don't know why I killed him; + out of pure wantonness, I expect, or perhaps I thought + it would frighten the others back. Not so, however; + they only quickened their pace, and came dashing down in + great numbers. Dozens of them stumbled and fell over the + dead bull; others fell over them. The top of the bank + was fairly swarming with them; they leaped, pitched, and + rolled down. I crouched as close to the bank as possible, + but many of them just grazed my head, knocking the sand + and gravel in great streams down my neck; indeed I was + half buried before the herd had passed over. That old bull + was the last buffalo I ever shot wantonly, excepting once, + from an ambulance while riding on the Old Trail, to please + a distinguished Englishman, who had never seen one shot; + then I did it only after his most earnest persuasion. + + One day a stage-driver named Frank Harris and myself started + out after buffalo; they were scarce, for a wonder, and + we were very hungry for fresh meat. The day was fine and + we rode a long way, expecting sooner or later a bunch would + jump up, but in the afternoon, having seen none, we gave + it up and started for the ranch. Of course, we didn't + care to save our ammunition, so shot it away at everything + in sight, skunks, rattlesnakes, prairie-dogs, and gophers, + until we had only a few loads left. Suddenly an old bull + jumped up that had been lying down in one of those + sugar-loaf-shaped sand hills, whose tops are hollowed out + by the action of the wind. Harris emptied his revolver + into him, and so did I; but the old fellow sullenly stood + still there on top of the sand hill, bleeding profusely + at the nose, and yet absolutely refusing to die, although + he would repeatedly stagger and nearly tumble over. + + It was getting late and we couldn't wait on him, so Harris + said: "I will dismount, creep up behind him, and cut his + hamstrings with my butcher-knife." The bull having now + lain down, Harris commenced operations, but his movement + seemed to infuse new life into the old fellow; he jumped + to his feet, his head lowered in the attitude of fight, + and away he went around the outside of the top of the + sand hill! It was a perfect circus with one ring; Harris, + who was a tall, lanky fellow, took hold of the enraged + animal's tail as he rose to his feet, and in a moment his + legs were flying higher than his head, but he did not dare + let go of his hold on the bull's tail, and around and + around they went; it was his only show for life. I could + not assist him a particle, but had to sit and hold his horse, + and be judge of the fight. I really thought that old bull + would never weaken. Finally, however, the "ring" performance + began to show symptoms of fatigue; slower and slower the + actions of the bull grew, and at last Harris succeeded + in cutting his hamstrings and the poor beast went down. + Harris said afterward, when the danger was all over, that + the only thing he feared was that perhaps the bull's tail + would pull out, and if it did, he was well aware that he + was a goner. We brought his tongue, hump, and a hindquarter + to the ranch with us, and had a glorious feast and a big + laugh that night with the boys over the ridiculous adventure. + +General Richard Irving Dodge, United States army, in his work on +the big game of America, says: + + It is almost impossible for a civilized being to realize + the value to the plains Indian of the buffalo. It furnished + him with home, food, clothing, bedding, horse equipment-- + almost everything. + + From 1869 to 1873 I was stationed at various posts along + the Arkansas River. Early in spring, as soon as the dry + and apparently desert prairie had begun to change its coat + of dingy brown to one of palest green, the horizon would + begin to be dotted with buffalo, single or in groups of two + or three, forerunners of the coming herd. Thick and thicker, + and in large groups they come, until by the time the grass + is well up, the whole vast landscape appears a mass of + buffalo, some individuals feeding, others lying down, but + the herd slowly moving to the northward; of their number, + it was impossible to form a conjecture. + + Determined as they are to pursue their journey northward, + yet they are exceedingly cautious and timid about it, + and on any alarm rush to the southward with all speed, + until that alarm is dissipated. Especially is this the case + when any unusual object appears in their rear, and so + utterly regardless of consequences are they, that an old + plainsman will not risk a wagon-train in such a herd, + where rising ground will permit those in front to get + a good view of their rear. + + In May, 1871, I drove in a buggy from old Fort Zarah + to Fort Larned, on the Arkansas River. The distance is + thirty-four miles. At least twenty-five miles of that + distance was through an immense herd. The whole country + was one mass of buffalo, apparently, and it was only when + actually among them, that the seemingly solid body was + seen to be an agglomeration of countless herds of from + fifty to two hundred animals, separated from the surrounding + herds by a greater or less space, but still separated. + + The road ran along the broad valley of the Arkansas. + Some miles from Zarah a low line of hills rises from the + plain on the right, gradually increasing in height and + approaching road and river, until they culminate in + Pawnee Rock. + + So long as I was in the broad, level valley, the herds + sullenly got out of my way, and, turning, stared stupidly + at me, some within thirty or forty yards. When, however, + I had reached a point where the hills were no more than + a mile from the road, the buffalo on the crests, seeing an + unusual object in their rear, turned, stared an instant, + then started at full speed toward me, stampeding and + bringing with them the numberless herds through which + they passed, and pouring down on me, no longer separated + but compacted into one immense mass of plunging animals, + mad with fright, irresistible as an avalanche. + + The situation was by no means pleasant. There was but + one hope of escape. My horse was, fortunately, a quiet + old beast, that had rushed with me into many a herd, and + been in at the death of many a buffalo. Reining him up, + I waited until the front of the mass was within fifty yards, + then, with a few well-directed shots, dropped some of + the leaders, split the herd and sent it off in two streams + to my right and left. When all had passed me, they stopped, + apparently satisfied, though thousands were yet within + reach of my rifle. After my servant had cut out the + tongues of the fallen, I proceeded on my journey, only to + have a similar experience within a mile or two, and this + occurred so often that I reached Fort Larned with twenty-six + tongues, representing the greatest number of buffalo that + I can blame myself with having murdered in one day. + + Some years, as in 1871, the buffalo appeared to move + northward in one immense column, oftentimes from twenty + to fifty miles in width, and of unknown depth from front + to rear. Other years the northward journey was made + in several parallel columns moving at the same rate and + with their numerous flankers covering a width of a hundred + or more miles. + + When the food in one locality fails, they go to another, + and toward fall, when the grass of the high prairies + becomes parched by the heat and drought, they gradually + work their way back to the south, concentrating on the + rich pastures of Texas and the Indian Territory, whence, + the same instinct acting on all, they are ready to start + together again on their northward march as soon as spring + starts the grass. + + Old plainsmen and the Indians aver that the buffalo never + return south; that each year's herd was composed of animals + which had never made the journey before, and would never + make it again. All admit the northern migration, that + being too pronounced for any one to dispute, but refuse + to admit the southern migration. Thousands of young calves + were caught and killed every spring that were produced + during this migration, and accompanied the herd northward; + but because the buffalo did not return south in one vast + body as they went north, it was stoutly maintained that + they did not go south at all. The plainsman could give + no reasonable hypothesis of his "No-return theory" on which + to base the origin of the vast herds which yearly made + their march northward. The Indian was, however, equal + to the occasion. Every plains Indian firmly believed that + the buffalo were produced in countless numbers in a country + under ground; that every spring the surplus swarmed, + like bees from a hive, out of the immense cave-like opening + in the region of the great Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain + of Texas. In 1879 Stone Calf, a celebrated chief, assured + me that he knew exactly where the caves were, though he had + never seen them; that the good God had provided this + means for the constant supply of food for the Indian, and + however recklessly the white men might slaughter, they could + never exterminate them. When last I saw him, the old man + was beginning to waver in this belief, and feared that + the "Bad God" had shut the entrances, and that his tribe + must starve. + +The old trappers and plainsmen themselves, even as early as the +beginning of the Santa Fe trade, noticed the gradual disappearance +of the buffalo, while they still existed in countless numbers. +One veteran French Canadian, an employee of the American Fur Company, +way back in the early '30's, used to mourn thus: "Mais, sacre! +les Amarican, dey go to de Missouri frontier, de buffalo he ron to +de montaigne; de trappaire wid his fusil, he follow to de Bayou +Salade, he ron again. Dans les Montaignes Espagnol, bang! bang! +toute la journee, toute la journee, go de sacre voleurs. De bison he +leave, parceque les fusils scare im vara moche, ici là de sem-sacré!" + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. +INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. + + + +Thirty-five miles before arriving at Bent's Fort, at which point +the Old Trail crossed the Arkansas, the valley widens and the prairie +falls toward the river in gentle undulations. There for many years +the three friendly tribes of plains Indians--Cheyennes, Arapahoes, +and Kiowas--established their winter villages, in order to avail +themselves of the supply of wood, to trade with the whites, and to +feed their herds of ponies on the small limbs and bark of the +cottonwood trees growing along the margin of the stream for four +or five miles. It was called Big Timbers, and was one of the most +eligible places to camp on the whole route after leaving Council Grove. +The grass, particularly on the south side of the river, was excellent; +there was an endless supply of fuel, and cool water without stint. + +In the severe winters that sometimes were fruitful of blinding +blizzards, sweeping from the north in an intensity of fury that +was almost inconceivable, the buffalo too congregated there for +shelter, and to browse on the twigs of the great trees. + +The once famous grove, though denuded of much of its timber, may +still be seen from the car windows as the trains hurry mountainward. + +Garrard, in his _Taos Trail_, presents an interesting and amusing +account of a visit to the Cheyenne village with old John Smith, +in 1847, when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, and that with +the various tribes of savages in its golden days. + + Toward the middle of the day, the village was in a great + bustle. Every squaw, child, and man had their faces + blackened--a manifestation of joy.[44] + + Pell-mell they went--men, squaws, and dogs--into the icy + river. Some hastily jerked off their leggings, and held + moccasins and dresses high out of the water. Others, too + impatient, dashed the stream from beneath their impetuous + feet, scarce taking time to draw more closely the always + worn robe. Wondering what caused all this commotion, and + looking over the river, whither the yelling, half-frantic + savages were so speedily hurrying, we saw a band of Indians + advancing toward us. As the foremost braves reined their + champing barbs on the river-bank, mingled whoops of triumph + and delight and the repeated discharge of guns filled + the air. In the hands of three were slender willow wands, + from the smaller points of which dangled as many scalps-- + the single tuft of hair on each pronouncing them Pawnees.[45] + + These were raised aloft, amid unrestrained bursts of joy + from the thrice-happy, blood-thirsty throng. Children ran + to meet their fathers, sisters their brothers, girls their + lovers, returning from the scene of victorious strife; + decrepit matrons welcomed manly sons; and aged chiefs their + boys and braves. It was a scene of affection, and a proud + day in the Cheyenne annals of prowess. That small but + gallant band were relieved of their shields and lances by + tender-hearted squaws, and accompanied to their respective + homes, to repose by the lodge-fire, consume choice meat, + and to be the heroes of the family circle. + + The drum at night sent forth its monotony of hollow sound, + and my Mexican Pedro and I, directed by the booming, + entered a lodge, vacated for the purpose, full of young men + and squaws, following one another in a continuous circle, + keeping the left knee stiff and bending the right with a + half-forward, half-backward step, as if they wanted to go on + and could not, accompanying it, every time the right foot + was raised, with an energetic, broken song, which, dying + away, was again and again sounded--"hay-a, hay-a, hay-a," + they went, laying the emphasis on the first syllable. + A drum, similar to, though larger than a tambourine, covered + with parflêche,[46] was beaten upon with a stick, producing + with the voices a sound not altogether disagreeable. + + Throughout the entire night and succeeding day the voices + of the singers and heavy notes of the drum reached us, + and at night again the same dull sound lulled me to sleep. + Before daylight our lodge was filled with careless dancers, + and the drum and voices, so unpleasing to our wearied ears, + were giving us the full benefit of their compass. Smith, + whose policy it was not to be offended, bore the infliction + as best be could, and I looked on much amused. The lodge + was so full that they stood without dancing, in a circle + round the fire, and with a swaying motion of the body + kept time to their music. + + During the day the young men, except the dancers, piled up + dry logs in a level open space near, for a grand demonstration. + At night, when it was fired, I folded my blanket over my + shoulders, comme les sauvages, and went out. The faces + of many girls were brilliant with vermilion; others were + blacked, their robes, leggings, and skin dresses glittering + with beads and quill-work. Rings and bracelets of shining + brass encircled their taper arms and fingers, and shells + dangled from their ears. Indeed, all the finery collectable + was piled on in barbarous profusion, though a few, in good + taste through poverty, wore a single band and but few rings, + with jetty hair parted in the middle, from the forehead + to the neck, terminating in two handsome braids. + + The young men who can afford the expense trade for dollars + and silver coin of less denomination--coin as a currency + is not known among them--which they flatten thin, and fasten + to a braid of buffalo hair, attached to the crown lock, + which hangs behind, outside of the robe, and adds much to + the handsome appearance of the wearer. + + The girls, numbering two hundred, fell into line together, + and the men, of whom there were two hundred and fifty, + joining, a circle was formed, which travelled around with + the same shuffling step already described. The drummers + and other musicians--twenty or twenty-five of them--marched + in a contrary direction to and from and around the fire, + inside the large ring; for at the distance kept by the + outsiders the area was one hundred and fifty feet in diameter. + The Apollonian emulators chanted the great deeds performed + by the Cheyenne warriors. As they ended, the dying strain + was caught up by the hundreds of the outside circle, who, + in fast-swelling, loud tones, poured out the burden of + their song. At this juncture the march was quickened, + the scalps of the slain were borne aloft and shaken with + wild delight, and shrill war-notes, rising above the + furious din, accelerated the pulsation and strung high + the nerves. Time-worn shields, careering in mad holders' + hands, clashed; and keen lances, once reeking in Pawnee + blood, clanged. Braves seized one another with an iron + grip, in the heat of excitement, or chimed more tenderly + in the chant, enveloped in the same robe with some maiden + as they approvingly stepped through one of their own + original polkas. + + Thirty of the chiefs and principal men were ranged by the + pile of blazing logs. By their invitation, I sat down with + them and smoked death and its concomitant train of evils to + those audacious tribes who doubt the courage or supremacy + of the brave, the great and powerful, Cheyenne nation. + +It is Indian etiquette that the first lodge a stranger enters on +visiting a village is his home as long as he remains the guest of +the tribe. It is all the same whether he be invited or not. +Upon going in, it is customary to place all your traps in the back +part, which is the most honoured spot. The proprietor always occupies +that part of his home, but invariably gives it up to a guest. +With the Cheyennes, the white man, when the tribe was at peace with +him, was ever welcome, as in the early days of the border he generally +had a supply of coffee, of which the savage is particularly fond-- +Mok-ta-bo-mah-pe, as they call it. Their salutation to the stranger +coming into the presence of the owner of a lodge is "Hook-ah-hay! +Num-whit,"--"How do you do? Stay with us." Water is then handed by +a squaw, as it is supposed a traveller is thirsty after riding; +then meat, for he must be hungry, too. A pipe is offered, and +conversation follows. + +The lodge of the Cheyennes is formed of seventeen poles, about three +inches thick at the end which rests on the ground, slender in shape, +tapering symmetrically, and eighteen feet or more in length. They are +tied together at the small ends with buffalo-hide, then raised until +the frame resembles a cone, over which buffalo-skins are placed, +very skilfully fitted and made soft by having been dubbed by the +women--that is, scraped to the requisite thinness, and made supple +by rubbing with the brains of the animal that wore it. They are +sewed together with sinews of the buffalo, generally of the long +and powerful muscle that holds up the ponderous head of the shaggy +beast, a narrow strip running towards the bump. In summer the +lower edges of the skin are rolled up, and the wind blowing through, +it is a cool, shady retreat. In winter everything is closed, and I +know of no more comfortable place than a well-made Indian lodge. +The army tent known as the Sibley is modelled after it, and is the +best winter shelter for troops in the field that can be made. +Many times while the military post where I had been ordered was +in process of building, I have chosen the Sibley tent in preference +to any other domicile. + +When a village is to be moved, it is an interesting sight. The young +and unfledged boys drive up the herd of ponies, and then the squaws +catch them. The women, too, take down the lodges, and, tying the +poles in two bundles, fasten them on each side of an animal, the +long ends dragging on the ground. Just behind the pony or mule, +as the case may be, a basket is placed and held there by buffalo-hide +thongs, and into these novel carriages the little children are put, +besides such traps as are not easily packed on the animal's back. + +The women do all the work both in camp and when moving. They are +doomed to a hopeless bondage of slavery, the fate of their sex in +every savage race; but they accept their condition stoically, and +there is as much affection among them for their husbands and children +as I have ever witnessed among the white race. Here are two instances +of their devotion, both of which came under my personal observation, +and I could give hundreds of others. + +Late in the fall of 1858, I was one of a party on the trail of a band +of Indians who had been committing some horrible murders in a +mining-camp in the northern portion of Washington Territory. On the +fourth day out, just about dusk, we struck their moccasin tracks, +which we followed all night, and surprised their camp in the gray +light of the early morning. In less than ten minutes the fight +was over, and besides the killed we captured six prisoners. Then as +the rising sun commenced to gild the peaks of the lofty range on +the west, having granted our captives half an hour to take leave +of their families, the ankles of each were bound; they were made +to kneel on the prairie, a squad of soldiers, with loaded rifles, +were drawn up eight paces in front of them, and at the instant +the signal--a white handkerchief--was dropped the savages tumbled +over on the sod a heap of corpses. The parting between the condemned +men and their young wives and children, I shall never forget. +It was the most perfect exhibition of marital and filial love that +I have ever witnessed. Such harsh measures may seem cruel and +heartless in the light of to-day, but there was none other than +martial law then in the wilderness of the Northern Pacific coast, +and the execution was a stern necessity. + +The other instance was ten years later. During the Indian campaign +in the winter of 1868-69 I was riding with a party of officers and +enlisted men, south of the Arkansas, about fourty miles from Fort Dodge. +We were watching some cavalrymen unearth three or four dead warriors +who had been killed by two scouts in a fierce unequal fight a few +weeks before, and as we rode into a small ravine among the sand hills, +we suddenly came upon a rudely constructed Cheyenne lodge. Entering, +we discovered on a rough platform, fashioned of green poles, a dead +warrior in full war-dress; his shield of buffalo-hide, pipe ornamented +with eagles' feathers, and medicine bag, were lying on the ground +beside him. At his head, on her knees, with hands clasped in the +attitude of prayer, was a squaw frozen to death. Which had first +succumbed, the wounded chief, or the devoted wife in the awful cold +of that winter prairie, will never be known, but it proved her love +for the man who had perhaps beaten her a hundred times. Such tender +and sympathetic affection is characteristic of the sex everywhere, +no less with the poor savage than in the dominant white race. + +To return to our description of the average Indian village: Each lodge +at the grand encampment of Big Timbers in the era of traffic with +the nomads of the great plains, owned its separate herd of ponies +and mules. In the exodus to some other favoured spot, two dozen or +more of these individual herds travelled close to each other but +never mixed, each drove devotedly following its bell-mare, as in +a pack-train. This useful animal is generally the most worthless +and wicked beast in the entire outfit. + +The animals with the lodge-pole carriages go as they please, +no special care being taken to guide them, but they too instinctively +keep within sound of the leader. I will again quote Garrard for +an accurate description of the moving camp when he was with the +Cheyennes in 1847:-- + + The young squaws take much care of their dress and horse + equipments; they dash furiously past on wild steeds, + astrideof the high-pommelled saddles. A fancifully + coloured cover, worked with beads or porcupine quills, + making a flashy, striking appearance, extended from withers + to rump of the horse, while the riders evinced an admirable + daring, worthy of Amazons. Their dresses were made of + buckskin, high at the neck, with short sleeves, or rather + none at all, fitting loosely, and reaching obliquely to + theknee, giving a Diana look to the costume; the edges + scalloped, worked with beads, and fringed. From the knee + downward the limb was encased in a tightly fitting legging, + terminating in a neat moccasin--both handsomely wrought + with beads. On the arms were bracelets of brass, which + glittered and reflected in the radiant morning sun, adding + much to their attractions. In their pierced ears, shells + from the Pacific shore were pendent; and to complete the + picture of savage taste and profusion, their fine + complexions were eclipsed by a coat of flaming vermilion. + + Many of the largest dogs were packed with a small quantity + of meat, or something not easily injured. They looked + queerly, trotting industriously under their burdens; and, + judging from a small stock of canine physiological + information, not a little of the wolf was in their + composition. + + We crossed the river on our way to the new camp. The alarm + manifested by the children in the lodge-pole drays, as they + dipped in the water, was amusing. The little fellows, + holding their breath, not daring to cry, looked imploringly + at their inexorable mothers, and were encouraged by words + of approbation from their stern fathers. + + After a ride of two hours we stopped, and the chiefs, + fastening their horses, collected in circles to smoke their + pipe and talk, letting their squaws unpack the animals, + pitch the lodges, build the fires, and arrange the robes. + When all was ready, these lords of creation dispersed to + their several homes, to wait until their patient and + enduring spouses prepared some food. I was provoked, nay, + angry, to see the lazy, overgrown men do nothing to help + their wives; and when the young women pulled off their + bracelets and finery to chop wood, the cup of my wrath was + full to overflowing, and, in a fit of honest indignation, + I pronounced them ungallant and savage in the true sense + of the word. + +The treatment of Indian children, particularly boys, is something +startling to the gentle sentiments of refined white mothers. +The girls receive hardly any attention from their fathers. Implicit +obedience is the watchword of the lodge with them, and they are +constantly taught to appreciate their inferiority of sex. The daughter +is a mere slave; unnoticed and neglected--a mere hewer of wood and +drawer of water. With a son, it is entirely different; the father +from his birth dotes on him and manifests his affection in the most +demonstrative manner. + +Garrard tells of two instances that came under his observation while +staying at the chief's lodge, and at John Smith's, in the Cheyenne +village, of the discipline to which the boys are subjected. + + In Vi-po-nah's lodge was his grandson, a boy six or seven + months old. Every morning his mother washed him in cold + water, and set him out in the air to make him hardy; + he would come in, perfectly nude, from his airing, about + half-frozen. How he would laugh and brighten up, as he felt + the warmth of the fire! + + Smith's son Jack took a crying fit one cold night, much to + the annoyance of four or five chiefs, who had come to our + lodge to talk and smoke. In vain did the mother shake and + scold him with the severest Cheyenne words, until Smith, + provoked beyond endurance, took the squalling youngster in + his hands; he shu-ed and shouted and swore, but Jack had + gone too far to be easily pacified. He then sent for a + bucket of water from the river and poured cupful after + cupful on Jack, who stamped and screamed and bit in his + tiny rage. Notwithstanding, the icy stream slowly descended + until the bucket was emptied, another was sent for, and + again and again the cup was replenished and emptied on the + blubbering youth. At last, exhausted with exertion and + completely cooled down, he received the remaining water + in silence, and, with a few words of admonition, was + delivered over to his mother, in whose arms he stifled his + sobs, until his heartbreaking grief and cares were drowned + in sleep. What a devilish mixture Indian and American + blood is! + +The Indians never chastise a boy, as they think his spirit would be +broken and cowed down; instead of a warrior he would be a squaw +--a harsh epithet indicative of cowardice--and they resort to any method +but infliction of blows to subdue a refractory scion. + +Before most of the lodges is a tripod of three sticks, about seven +feet in length and an inch in diameter, fastened at the top, and the +lower ends brought out, so that it stands alone. On this is hung +the shield and a small square bag of parflêche, containing pipes, +with an accompanying pendent roll of stems, carefully wrapped in +blue or red cloth, and decorated with beads and porcupine quills. +This collection is held in great veneration, for the pipe is their +only religion. Through its agency they invoke the Great Spirit; +through it they render homage to the winds, to the earth, and to +the sky. + +Every one has his peculiar notion on this subject; and, in passing +the pipe, one must have it presented stem downward, another the +reverse; some with the bowl resting on the ground; and as this is +a matter of great solemnity, their several fancies are respected. +Sometimes I required them to hand it to me, when smoking, in imitation +of their custom; on this, a faint smile, half mingled with respect +and pity for my folly in tampering with their sacred ceremony, would +appear on their faces, and with a slow negative shake of the head, +they would ejaculate, "I-sto-met-mah-son-ne-wah-hein"--"Pshaw! +that's foolish; don't do so." + +Religion the Cheyennes have none, if, indeed, we except the respect +paid to the pipe; nor do we see any sign or vestige of spiritual +worship; except one remarkable thing--in offering the pipe, before +every fresh filling, to the sky, the earth, and the winds, the motion +made in so doing describes the form of a cross; and, in blowing the +first four whiffs, the smoke is invariably sent in the same four +directions. It is undoubtedly void of meaning in reference to +Christian worship, yet it is a superstition, founded on ancient +tradition. This tribe once lived near the head waters of the +Mississippi; and, as the early Jesuit missionaries were energetic +zealots, in the diffusion of their religious sentiments, probably to +make their faith more acceptable to the Indians, the Roman Catholic +rites were blended with the homage shown to the pipe, which custom +of offering, in the form of a cross, is still retained by them; +but as every custom is handed down by tradition merely, the true +source has been forgotten. + +In every tribe in whose country I have been stationed, which comprises +nearly all the continent excepting the extreme southwestern portion, +his pipe is the Indian's constant companion through life. It is his +messenger of peace; he pledges his friends through its stem and its +bowl, and when he is dead, it has a place in his solitary grave, +with his war-club and arrows--companions on his journey to his +long-fancied beautiful hunting-grounds. The pipe of peace is a sacred +thing; so held by all Indian nations, and kept in possession of chiefs, +to be smoked only at times of peacemaking. When the terms of treaty +have been agreed upon, this sacred emblem, the stem of which is +ornamented with eagle's quills, is brought forward, and the solemn +pledge to keep the peace is passed through the sacred stem by each +chief and warrior drawing the smoke once through it. After the +ceremony is over, the warriors of the two tribes unite in the dance, +with the pipe of peace held in the left hand of the chief and in his +other a rattle. + +Thousands of years ago, the primitive savage of the American continent +carried masses of pipe-stone from the sacred quarry in Minnesota +across the vast wilderness of plains, to trade with the people of +the far Southwest, over the same route that long afterward became +the Santa Fe Trail; therefore, it will be consistent with the character +of this work to relate the history of the quarry from which all the +tribes procured their material for fashioning their pipes, and the +curious legends connected with it. I have met with the red sandstone +pipes on the remotest portions of the Pacific coast, and east, west, +north and south, in every tribe that it has been my fortune to know. + +The word "Dakotah" means allied or confederated, and is the family +name now comprising some thirty bands, numbering about thirty thousand +Indians. They are generally designated Sioux, but that title is +seldom willingly acknowledged by them. It was first given to them +by the French, though its original interpretation is by no means clear. +The accepted theory, because it is the most plausible, is that it is +a corruption or rather an abbreviation of "Nadouessioux," a Chippewa +word for enemies. + +Many of the Sioux are semi-civilized; some are "blanket-Indians," +so called, but there are no longer any murderous or predatory bands, +and all save a few stragglers are on the reservations. From 1812 to +1876, more than half a century, they were the scourge of the West and +the Northwest, but another outbreak is highly improbable. They once +occupied the vast region included between the Mississippi and the +Rocky Mountains, and were always migratory in their methods of living. +Over fifty years ago, when the whites first became acquainted with +them, they were divided into nearly fifty bands of families, each with +its separate chief, but all acknowledging a superior chief to whom +they were subordinate. They were at that time the happiest and most +wealthy tribe on the continent, regarded from an Indian standpoint; +but then the great plains were stocked with buffalo and wild horses, +and that fact alone warrants the assertion of contentment and riches. +No finer-looking tribe existed; they could then muster more than +ten thousand warriors, every one of whom would measure six feet, and +all their movements were graceful and elastic. + +According to their legends, they came from the Pacific and encountered +the Algonquins about the head waters of the Mississippi, where they +were held in check, a portion of them, however, pushing on through +their enemies and securing a foothold on the shores of Lake Michigan. +This bold band was called by the Chippewas Winnebagook (men-from-the- +salt-water). In their original habitat on the great northern plains +was located the celebrated "red pipe-stone quarry," a relatively +limited area, owned by all tribes, but occupied permanently by none; +a purely neutral ground--so designated by the Great Spirit--where no +war could possibly occur, and where mortal enemies might meet to +procure the material for their pipes, but the hatchet was invariably +buried during that time on the consecrated spot. + +The quarry has long since passed out of the control and jurisdiction +of the Indians and is not included in any of their reservations, +though near the Sisseton agency. It is located on the summit of +the high divide between the Missouri and St. Peter's rivers in +Minnesota, at a point not far from where the ninety-seventh meridian +of longitude (from Greenwich) intersects the forty-fifth parallel +of latitude. The divide was named by the French Coteau des Prairies, +and the quarry is near its southern extremity. Not a tree or bush +could be seen from the majestic mound when I last was there, some +twenty years ago--nothing but the apparently interminable plains, +until they were lost in the deep blue of the horizon. + +The luxury of smoking appears to have been known to all the tribes +on the continent in their primitive state, and they indulge in the +habit to excess; any one familiar with their life can assert that +the American savage smokes half of his time. Where so much attention +is given to a mere pleasure, it naturally follows that he would devote +his leisure and ingenuity to the construction of his pipe. The bowls +of these were, from time immemorial, made of the peculiar red stone +from the famous quarry referred to, which, until only a little over +fifty years ago, was never visited by a white man, its sanctity +forbidding any such sacrilege. + +That the spot should have been visited for untold centuries by all +the Indian nations, who hid their weapons as they approached it, +under fear of the vengeance of the Great Spirit, will not seem strange +when the religion of the race is understood. One of the principal +features of the quarry is a perpendicular wall of granite about +thirty feet high, facing the west, and nearly two miles long. At the +base of the wall there is a level prairie, running parallel to it, +half a mile wide. Under this strip of land, after digging through +several slaty layers of rock, the red sandstone is found. Old graves, +fortifications, and excavations abound, all confirmatory of the +traditions clustering around the weird place. + +Within a few rods of the base of the wall is a group of immense gneiss +boulders, five in number, weighing probably many hundred tons each, +and under these are two holes in which two imaginary old women reside +--the guardian spirits of the quarry--who were always consulted before +any pipe-stone could be dug up. The veneration for this group of +boulders was something wonderful; not a spear of grass was broken or +bent by his feet within sixty or seventy paces from them, where the +trembling Indian halted, and throwing gifts to them in humble +supplication, solicited permission to dig and take away the red stone +for his pipes. + +Near this spot, too, on a high mound, was the "Thunder's nest," where +a very small bird sat upon her eggs during fair weather. When the +skies were rent with thunder at the approach of a storm, she was +hatching her brood, which caused the terrible commotion in the heavens. +The bird was eternal. The "medicine men" claimed that they had often +seen her, and she was about as large as a little finger. Her mate +was a serpent whose fiery tongue destroyed the young ones as soon as +they were born, and the awful noise accompanying the act darted +through the clouds. + +On the wall of rocks at the quarry are thousands of inscriptions and +paintings, the totems and arms of various tribes who have visited +there; but no idea can be formed of their antiquity. + +Of the various traditions of the many tribes, I here present a few. +The Great Spirit at a remote period called all the Indian nations +together at this place, and, standing on the brink of the precipice +of red-stone rock, broke from its walls a piece and fashioned a pipe +by simply turning it in his hands. He then smoked over them to the +north, the south, the east, and the west, and told them the stone +was red, that it was their flesh, that they must use it for their +pipes of peace, that it belonged to all alike, and that the war-club +and scalping-knife must never be raised on its ground. At the last +whiff of his pipe his head went into a great cloud, and the whole +surface of the ledge for miles was melted and glazed; two great ovens +were opened beneath, and two women--the guardian spirits of the place-- +entered them in a blaze of fire, and they are heard there yet +answering to the conjurations of the medicine men, who consult them +when they visit the sacred place. + +The legend of the Knis-te-neu's tribe (Crees), a very small band in +the British possessions, in relation to the quarry is this: In the +time of a great freshet that occurred years ago and destroyed all the +nations of the earth, every tribe of Indians assembled on the top +of the Coteau des Prairies to get out of the way of the rushing and +seething waters. When they had arrived there from all parts of the +world, the water continued to rise until it covered them completely, +forming one solid mass of drowned Indians, and their flesh was +converted by the Great Spirit into red pipe-stone; therefore, it was +always considered neutral ground, belonging to all tribes alike, and +all were to make their pipes out of it and smoke together. While they +were drowning together, a young woman, Kwaptan, a virgin, caught hold +of the foot of a very large bird that was flying over at the time, +and was carried to the top of a hill that was not far away and above +the water. There she had twins, their father being the war-eagle +that had carried her off, and her children have since peopled the +earth. The pipe-stone, which is the flesh of their ancestors, +is smoked by them as the symbol of peace, and the eagle quills +decorate the heads of their warriors. + +Severed about seven or eight feet from the main wall of the quarry +by some convulsion of nature ages ago, there is an immense column +just equal in height to the wall, seven feet in diameter and +beautifully polished on its top and sides. It is called The Medicine, +or Leaping Rock, and considerable nerve is required to jump on it from +the main ledge and back again. Many an Indian's heart, in the past, +has sighed for the honour of the feat without daring to attempt it. +A few, according to the records of the tribes, have tried it with +success, and left their arrows standing up in its crevice; others +have made the leap and reached its slippery surface only to slide off, +and suffer instant death on the craggy rocks in the awful chasm below. +Every young man of the many tribes was ambitious to perform the feat, +and those who had successfully accomplished it were permitted to +boast of it all their lives. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. +TRAPPERS. + + + +The initial opening of the trade with New Mexico from the Missouri +River, as has been related, was not direct to Santa Fe. The limited +number of pack-trains at first passed to the north of the Raton Range, +and travelled to the Spanish settlements in the valley of Taos. + +On this original Trail, where now is situated the beautiful city +of Pueblo, the second place of importance in Colorado, there was a +little Indian trading-post called "the Pueblo," from which the present +thriving place derives its name. The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe +Railroad practically follows the same route that the traders did to +reach Pueblo, as it also does that which the freight caravans later +followed from the Missouri River direct to Santa Fe. + +The old Pueblo fort, as nearly as can be determined now, was built +as early as 1840, or not later than 1842, and, as one authority +asserts, by George Simpson and his associates, Barclay and Doyle. +Beckwourth claims to have been the original projector of the fort, +and to have given the general plan and its name, in which I am +inclined to believe that he is correct; perhaps Barclay, Doyle, and +Simpson were connected with him, as he states that there were other +trappers, though he mentions no names. It was a square fort of adobe, +with circular bastions at the corners, no part of the walls being +more than eight feet high. Around the inside of the plaza, or corral, +were half a dozen small rooms inhabited by as many Indian traders and +mountain-men. + +One of the earlier Indian agents, Mr. Fitzpatrick, in writing from +Bent's Fort in 1847, thus describes the old Pueblo:-- + + About seventy-five miles above this place, and immediately + on the Arkansas River, there is a small settlement, chiefly + composed of old trappers and hunters; the male part of it + are mostly Americans (Missourians), French Canadians, and + Mexicans. It numbers about one hundred and fifty, and of + this number about sixty men have wives, and some have two. + These wives are of various Indian tribes, as follows; viz. + Blackfeet, Assiniboines, Sioux, Arapahoes, Cheyennes, + Snakes, and Comanches. The American women are Mormons, + a party of Mormons having wintered there, and then departed + for California. + +The old trappers and hunters of the Pueblo fort lived entirely upon +game, and a greater part of the year without bread. As soon as their +supply of meat was exhausted, they started to the mountains with two +or three pack-animals, and brought back in two or three days loads +of venison and buffalo. + +The Arkansas at the Pueblo is a clear, rapid river about a hundred +yards wide. The bottom, which is enclosed on each side by high bluffs, +is about a quarter of a mile across. In the early days of which I +write, the margin of the stream was heavily timbered with cottonwood, +and the tourist to-day may see the remnant of the primitive great +woods, in the huge isolated trees scattered around the bottom in the +vicinity of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad station of +the charming mountain city. + +On each side vast rolling prairies stretch away for hundreds of miles, +gradually ascending on the side towards the mountains, where the +highlands are sparsely covered with pinyon and cedar. The lofty banks +through which the Arkansas occasionally passes are of shale and +sandstone, rising precipitously from the water. Ascending the river +the country is wild and broken, until it enters the mountain region, +where the scenery is incomparably grand and imposing. The surrounding +prairies are naturally arid and sterile, producing but little +vegetation, and the primitive grass, though of good quality, is thin +and scarce. Now, however, under a competent system of irrigation, +the whole aspect of the landscape is changed from what it was thirty +years ago, and it has all the luxuriance of a garden. + +The whole country, it is claimed, was once possessed by the Shos-shones, +or Snake Indians, of whom the Comanches of the Southern plains are +a branch; and, although many hundred miles divide their hunting-grounds, +they were once, if not the same people, tribes or bands of that great +and powerful nation. They retain a language in common, and there is +also a striking analogy in many of their religious rites and ceremonies, +in their folk-lore, and in some of their everyday customs. These +facts prove, at least, that there was at one time a very close +alliance which bound the two tribes together. Half a century ago they +were, in point of numbers, the two most powerful nations in all the +numerous aggregations of Indians in the West; the Comanches ruling +almost supreme on the Eastern plains, while the Shos-shones were the +dominant tribe in the country beyond the Rocky Mountains, and in the +mountains themselves. Once, many years ago, before the problem of the +relative strength of the various tribes was as well solved as now, +the Shos-shones were supposed to be the most powerful, and numerically +the most populous, tribe of Indians on the North American continent. + +In the immediate vicinity of the old Pueblo fort at the time of its +greatest business prosperity, game was scarce; the buffalo had for +some years deserted the neighbouring prairies, but they were always +to be found in the mountain-valleys, particularly in one known as +"Bayou Salado," which forty-five years ago abounded in elk, bear, +deer, and antelope. + +The fort was situated a few hundred yards above the mouth of the +"Fontaine qui Bouille" River,[47] so called from two springs of +mineral water near its head, under Pike's Peak, about sixty miles +above its mouth. + +As is the case with all the savage races of the world, the American +Indians possess hereditary legends, accounting for all the phenomena +of nature, or any occurrence which is beyond their comprehension. +The Shos-shones had the following story to account for the presence of +these wonderful springs in the midst of their favourite hunting-ground. +The two fountains, one pouring forth the sweetest water imaginable, +the other a stream as bitter as gall, are intimately connected with +the cause of the separation of the two tribes. Their legend thus runs: +Many hundreds of winters ago, when the cottonwoods on the big river +were no higher than arrows, and the prairies were crowded with game, +the red men who hunted the deer in the forests and the buffalo on the +plains all spoke the same language, and the pipe of peace breathed its +soothing cloud whenever two parties of hunters met on the boundless +prairie. + +It happened one day that two hunters of different nations met on the +bank of a small rivulet, to which both had resorted to quench their +thirst. A small stream of water, rising from a spring on a rock +within a few feet of the bank, trickled over it and fell splashing +into the river. One hunter sought the spring itself; the other, +tired by his exertions in the chase, threw himself at once to the +ground, and plunged his face into the running stream. + +The latter had been unsuccessful in the hunt, and perhaps his bad +fortune, and the sight of the fat deer which the other threw from his +back before he drank at the crystal spring, caused a feeling of +jealousy and ill-humour to take possession of his mind. The other, +on the contrary, before he satisfied his thirst, raised in the hollow +of his hand a portion of the water, and, lifting it toward the sun, +reversed his hand, and allowed it to fall upon the ground, as a +libation to the Great Spirit, who had vouch-safed him a successful +hunt and the blessing of the refreshing water with which he was about +to quench his thirst. + +This reminder that he had neglected the usual offering only increased +the feeling of envy and annoyance which filled the unsuccessful +hunter's heart. The Evil Spirit at that moment entering his body, +his temper fairly flew away, and he sought some pretence to provoke +a quarrel with the other Indian. + +"Why does a stranger," he asked, rising from the stream, "drink at +the spring-head, when one to whom the fountain belongs contents +himself with the water that runs from it?" + +"The Great Spirit places the cool water at the spring," answered the +other hunter, "that his children may drink it pure and undefiled. +The running water is for the beasts which scour the plains. Ausaqua +is a chief of the Shos-shones; he drinks at the head water." + +"The Shos-shones is but a tribe of the Comanches," returned the other: +"Wacomish leads the whole nation. Why does a Shos-shone dare to +drink above him?" + +"When the Manitou made his children, whether Shos-shone or Comanche, +Arapaho, Cheyenne, or Pawnee, he gave them buffalo to eat, and the +pure water of the fountain to quench their thirst. He said not to +one, 'Drink here,' and to another, 'Drink there'; but gave the crystal +spring to all, that all might drink." + +Wacomish almost burst with rage as the other spoke; but his coward +heart prevented him from provoking an encounter with the calm Shos-shone. +The latter, made thirsty by the words he had spoken--for the Indian is +ever sparing of his tongue--again stooped down to the spring to drink, +when the subtle warrior of the Comanches suddenly threw himself upon +the kneeling hunter and, forcing his head into the bubbling water, +held him down with all his strength until his victim no longer +struggled; his stiffened limbs relaxed, and he fell forward over +the spring, drowned. + +Mechanically the Comanche dragged the body a few paces from the water, +and, as soon as the head of the dead Indian was withdrawn, the spring +was suddenly and strangely disturbed. Bubbles sprang up from the +bottom, and, rising to the surface, escaped in hissing gas. A thin +vapour arose, and, gradually dissolving, displayed to the eyes of the +trembling murderer the figure of an aged Indian, whose long, snowy +hair and venerable beard, blown aside from his breast, discovered the +well-known totem of the great Wankanaga, the father of the Comanche +and Shos-shone nation. + +Stretching out a war-club toward the Comanche, the figure thus +addressed him:-- + +"Accursed murderer! While the blood of the brave Shos-shone cries to +the Great Spirit for vengeance, may the water of thy tribe be rank +and bitter in their throats!" Thus saying, and swinging his ponderous +war-club round his head, he dashed out the brains of the Comanche, +who fell headlong into the spring, which from that day to this remains +rank and nauseous, so that not even when half dead with thirst, can +one drink from it. + +The good Wankanaga, however, to perpetuate the memory of the Shos-shone +warrior, who was renowned in his tribe for valour and nobleness of +heart, struck with the same avenging club a hard, flat rock which +overhung the rivulet, and forthwith a round clear basin opened, which +instantly filled with bubbling, sparkling water, sweet and cool. + +From that day the two mighty tribes of the Shos-shones and Comanches +have remained severed and apart, although a long and bloody war +followed the treacherous murder. + +The Indians regarded these wonderful springs with awe. The Arapahoes, +especially, attributed to the Spirit of the springs the power of +ordaining the success or failure of their war expeditions. As their +warriors passed by the mysterious pools when hunting their hereditary +enemies, the Utes, they never failed to bestow their votive offerings +upon the spring, in order to propitiate the Manitou of the strange +fountain, and insure a fortunate issue to their path of war. As late +as twenty-five years ago, the visitor to the place could always find +the basin of the spring filled with beads and wampum, pieces of red +cloth and knives, while the surrounding trees were hung with strips +of deerskin, cloth, and moccasins. Signs were frequently observed +in the vicinity of the waters unmistakably indicating that a war-dance +had been executed there by the Arapahoes on their way to the Valley +of Salt, occupied by the powerful Utes. + +Never was there such a paradise for hunters as this lone and solitary +spot in the days when the region was known only to them and the +trappers of the great fur companies. The shelving prairie, at the +bottom of which the springs are situated, is entirely surrounded by +rugged mountains and contained two or three acres of excellent grass, +affording a safe pasture for their animals, which hardly cared to +wander from such feeding and the salt they loved to lick. + +The trappers of the Rocky Mountains belonged to a genus that has +disappeared. Forty years ago there was not a hole or corner in the +vast wilderness of the far West that had not been explored by these +hardy men. From the Mississippi to the mouth of the Colorado of the +West, from the frozen regions of the north to the Gila in Mexico, +the beaver hunter has set his traps in every creek and stream. +The mountains and waters, in many instances, still retain the names +assigned them by those rude hunters, who were veritable pioneers +paving the way for the settlement of the stern country. + +A trapper's camp in the old days was quite a picture, as were all its +surroundings. He did not always take the trouble to build a shelter, +unless in the winter. A couple of deerskins stretched over a willow +frame was considered sufficient to protect him from the storm. +Sometimes he contented himself with a mere "breakwind," the rocky +wall of a canyon, or large ravine. Near at hand he set up two poles, +in the crotch of which another was laid, where he kept, out of reach +of the hungry wolf and coyote, his meat, consisting of every variety +afforded by the region in which he had pitched his camp. Under cover +of the skins of the animals he had killed hung his old-fashioned +powder-horn and bullet-pouch, while his trusty rifle, carefully +defended from the damp, was always within reach of his hand. Round +his blazing fire at night his companions, if he had any, were other +trappers on the same stream; and, while engaged in cleaning their +arms, making and mending moccasins, or running bullets, they told +long yarns, until the lateness of the hour warned them to crawl under +their blankets. + +Not far from the camp, his animals, well hobbled, fed in sight; +for nothing did a hunter dread more than a visit from horse-stealing +Indians, and to be afoot was the acme of misery. + +Some hunters who had married squaws carried about with them regular +buffalo-skin lodges, which their wives took care of, according to +Indian etiquette. + +The old-time trappers more nearly approximated the primitive savage, +perhaps, than any other class of civilized men. Their lives being +spent in the remote wilderness of the mountains, frequently with no +other companion than Nature herself, their habits and character often +assumed a most singular cast of simplicity, mingled with ferocity, +that appeared to take its colouring from the scenes and objects which +surrounded them. Having no wants save those of nature, their sole +concern was to provide sufficient food to support life, and the +necessary clothing to protect them from the sometimes rigorous climate. + +The costume of the average trapper was a hunting-shirt of dressed +buckskin, with long, fringed trousers of the same material, decorated +with porcupine quills. A flexible hat and moccasins covered his +extremities, and over his left shoulder and under his right arm hung +his powder-horn and bullet-pouch, in which he also carried flint, +steel, and other odds and ends. Round his waist he wore a belt, +in which was stuck a large knife in a sheath of buffalo-hide, made +fast to the belt by a chain or guard of steel. It also supported +a little buckskin case, which contained a whetstone, a very necessary +article; for in taking off the hides of the beaver a sharp knife was +required. His pipe-holder hung around his neck, and was generally +a gage d'amour, a triumph of squaw workmanship, wrought with beads +and porcupine quills, often made in the shape of a heart. + +Necessarily keen observers of nature, they rivalled the beasts of +prey in discovering the haunts and habits of game, and in their skill +and cunning in capturing it outwitted the Indian himself. Constantly +exposed to perils of all kinds, they became callous to any feeling +of danger, and were firm friends or bitter enemies. It was a "word +and a blow," the blow often coming first. Strong, active, hardy as +bears, expert in the use of their weapons, they were just what an +uncivilized white man might be supposed to be under conditions where +he must depend upon his instincts for the support of life. + +Having determined upon the locality of his trapping-ground, the hunter +started off, sometimes alone, sometimes three or four of them in +company, as soon as the breaking of the ice in the streams would +permit, if he was to go very far north. Arriving on the spot he has +selected for his permanent camp, the first thing to be done, after +he had settled himself, was to follow the windings of the creeks and +rivers, keeping a sharp lookout for "signs." If he saw a prostrate +cottonwood tree, he carefully examined it to learn whether it was +the work of beaver, and if so whether thrown for the purpose of food, +or to dam the stream. The track of the animal on the mud or sand +under the banks was also examined; if the sign was fresh, he set his +trap in the run of the animal, hiding it under water, and attaching +it by a stout chain to a picket driven in the bank, or to a bush or +tree. A float-stick was made fast to the trap by a cord a few feet +long, which, if the animal carried away the trap, would float on +the water and point out its position. The trap was baited with +"medicine," an oily substance obtained from the beaver. A stick was +dipped in this and planted over the trap, and the beaver, attracted +by the smell, put his leg into the trap and was caught. + +When a beaver lodge was discovered, the trap was set at the edge of +the dam, at a point where the animal passed from deep to shoal water, +and always under the surface. Early in the morning, the hunter +mounted his mule and examined all his traps. + +The beaver is exceedingly wily, and if by scent or sound or sight he +had any intimation of the presence of a trapper, he put at defiance +all efforts to capture him, consequently it was necessary to practise +great caution when in the neighbourhood of one of their lodges. +The trapper then avoided riding for fear the sound of his horse's +feet might strike dismay among the furry inhabitants under the water, +and, instead of walking on the ground, he waded in the stream, lest +he should leave a scent behind by which he might be discovered. + +In the days of the great fur companies, trappers were of two kinds-- +the hired hand and the free trapper. The former was hired by the +company, which supplied him with everything necessary, and paid him +a certain price for his furs and peltries. The other hunted on his +own hook, owned his animals and traps, went where he pleased, and +sold to whom he chose. + +During the hunting season, regardless of the Indians, the fearless +trapper wandered far and near in search of signs. His nerves were +in a state of tension, his mind always clear, and his head cool. +His trained eye scrutinized every part of the country, and in an +instant he could detect anything that was strange. A turned leaf, +a blade of grass pressed down, the uneasiness of wild animals, +the actions of the birds, were all to him paragraphs written in +Nature's legible hand. + +All the wits of the wily savage were called into play to gain an +advantage over the plucky white man; but with the resources natural +to a civilized mind, the hunter seldom failed, under equal chance, +to circumvent the cunning of the red man. Sometimes, following his +trail for weeks, the Indian watched him set his traps on some timbered +stream, and crawling up the bed of it, so that he left no tracks, +he lay in the bushes until his victim came to examine his traps. +Then, when he approached within a few feet of the ambush, whiz! flew +the home-drawn arrow, which never failed at such close quarters to +bring the unsuspecting hunter to the ground. But for one white scalp +that dangled in the smoke of an Indian's lodge, a dozen black ones, +at the end of the season, ornamented the camp-fires of the rendezvous +where the furs were sold. + +In the camp, if he was a very successful hunter, all the appliances +for preparing the skins for market were at hand; if he had a squaw +for a wife, she did all the hard work, as usual. Close to the +entrance of their skin lodge was the "graining-block," a log of wood +with the bark stripped off and perfectly smooth, set obliquely in +the ground, on which the hair was removed from the deerskins which +furnished moccasins and dresses for both herself and her husband. +Then there were stretching frames on which the skins were placed to +undergo the process of "dubbing"; that is, the removal of all flesh +and fatty particles adhering to the skin. The "dubber" was made of +the stock of an elk's horn, with a piece of iron or steel inserted +in the end, forming a sharp knife. The last process the deerskin +underwent before it was soft and pliable enough for making into +garments, was the "smoking." This was effected by digging a round +hole in the ground, and lighting in it an armful of rotten wood or +punk; then sticks were planted around the hole, and their tops brought +together and tied. The skins were placed on this frame, and all +openings by which the smoke might escape being carefully stopped, +in ten or twelve hours they were thoroughly cured and ready for +immediate use. + +The beaver was the main object of the hunter's quest; its skins were +once worth from six to eight dollars a pound; then they fell to only +one dollar, which hardly paid the expenses of traps, animals, and +equipment for the hunt, and was certainly no adequate remuneration +for the hardships, toil, and danger undergone by the trappers. + +The beaver was once found in every part of North America, from Canada +to the Gulf of Mexico, but has so retired from the encroachments of +civilized man, that it is only to be met with occasionally on some +tributary to the remote mountain streams. + +The old trappers always aimed to set their traps so that the beaver +would drown when taken. This was accomplished by sinking the trap +several inches under water, and driving a stake through a ring on the +end of the chain into the bottom of the creek. When the beaver finds +himself caught, he pitches and plunges about until his strength is +exhausted, when he sinks down and is drowned, but if he succeeds in +getting to the shore, he always extricates himself by gnawing off +the leg that is in the jaws of the trap. + +The captured animals were skinned, and the tails, which are a great +dainty, carefully packed into camp. The skin was then stretched over +a hoop or framework of willow twigs and allowed to dry, the flesh and +fatty substance adhering being first carefully scraped off. When dry, +it was folded into a square sheet, the fur turned inwards, and the +bundle, containing twenty skins, tightly pressed and tied, was ready +for transportation. The beaver after the hide is taken off weighs +about twelve pounds, and its flesh, although a little musky, is very +fine. Its tail which is flat and oval in shape, is covered with +scales about the size of those of a salmon. It was a great delicacy +in the estimation of the old trapper; he separated it from the body, +thrust a stick in one end of it, and held it before the fire with the +scales on. In a few moments large blisters rose on the surface, +which were very easily removed. The tail was then perfectly white, +and delicious. Next to the tail the liver was another favourite of +the trapper, and when properly cooked it constituted a delightful repast. + +After the season was over, or the hunter had loaded all his pack-animals, +he proceeded to the "rendezvous," where the buyers were to congregate +for the purchase of the fur, the locality of which had been agreed +upon when the hunters started out on their expedition. One of these +was at Bent's old fort and one at Pueblo; another at "Brown's Hole" +on Green River, and there were many more on the great streams and in +the mountains. There the agents of the fur companies and traders +waited for the arrival of the trappers, with such an assortment of +goods as the hardy men required, including, of course, an immense +supply of whiskey. The trappers dropped in day after day, in small +bands, packing their loads of beaver-skins, not infrequently to the +value of a thousand dollars each, the result of one hunt. + +The rendezvous was frequently a continuous scene of gambling, brawling, +and fighting, so long as the improvident trapper's money lasted. +Seated around the large camp-fires, cross-legged in Indian fashion, +with a blanket or buffalo-robe spread before them, groups were playing +cards--euchre, seven-up, and poker, the regular mountain games. +The usual stakes were beaver-skins, which were current as coin. +When their fur was all gone, their horses, mules, rifles, shirts, +hunting packs, and trousers were staked. Daring professional gamblers +made the rounds of the camps, challenging each other to play for the +trapper's highest stakes--his horse, or his squaw, if he had one--and +it is told of one great time that two old trappers played for one +another's scalps! "There goes hoss and beaver," was a common mountain +expression when any severe loss was sustained, and shortly "hoss and +beaver" found their way into the pockets of the unconscionable gamblers. + +Frequently a trapper would squander the entire product of his hunt, +amounting to hundreds of dollars, in a couple of hours. Then, +supplied with another outfit, he left the rendezvous for another +expedition, which had the same result time after time, although one +good hunt would have enabled him to return to the settlements and +live a life of comparative ease. + +It is told of one old Canadian trapper, who had received as much as +fifteen thousand dollars for beaver during his life in the mountains, +extending over twenty years, that each season he had resolved in his +mind to go back to Canada, and with this object in view always +converted his furs into cash; but a fortnight at the rendezvous +always "cleaned him out," and at the end of the twenty years he had +not even enough credit to get a plug of tobacco. + +Trading with the Indians in the primitive days of the border was just +what the word signifies in its radical interpretation--a system of +barter exclusively. No money was used in the transaction, as it was +long afterward before the savages began to learn something of the +value of currency from their connection with the sutler's and agency +stores established on reservations and at military posts on the plains +and in the mountains. In the early days, if an Indian by any chance +happened to get possession of a piece of money (only gold or silver +was recognized as a medium of exchange in the remote West), he would +immediately fashion it into some kind of an ornament with which to +adorn his person. Some tribes, however, did indulge in a sort of +currency, worthless except among themselves. This consisted of rare +shells, such as the Oligachuck, so called, of the Pacific coast +nations, used by them within my own recollection, as late as 1858. + +The poor Indian, as might have been expected, was generally +outrageously swindled; in fact, I am inclined to believe, always. +I never was present on an occasion when he was not. + +The savage's idea of values was very crude until the government, +in attempting to civilize and make a gentleman of him, has transformed +him into a bewildered child. Very soon after his connection with +the white trader, he learned that a gun was more valuable than a knife; +but of their relative cost to manufacture he had no idea. For these +reasons, obviously, he was always at the mercy of the unscrupulous +trader who came to his village, or met him at the rendezvous to barter +for his furs. I know that the price of every article he desired was +fixed by the trader, and never by the Indian, consequently he rarely +got the best of the bargain. + +Uncle John Smith, Kit Carson, L. B. Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, and +a host of other well-known Indian traders, long since dead, have +often told me that the first thing they did on entering a village +with a pack-load of trinkets to barter, in the earlier days before +the whites had encroached to any great extent, was to arrange a +schedule of prices. They would gather a large number of sticks, +each one representing an article they had brought. With these crude +symbols the Indian made himself familiar in a little while, and when +this preliminary arrangement had been completed, the trading began. +The Indian, for instance, would place a buffalo-robe on the ground; +then the trader commenced to lay down a number of the sticks, +representing what he was willing to give for the robe. The Indian +revolved the transaction in his mind until he thought he was getting +a fair equivalent according to his ideas, then the bargain was made. +It was claimed by these old traders, when they related this to me, +that the savage generally was not satisfied, always insisting upon +having more sticks placed on the pile. I suspect, however, that the +trader was ever prepared for this, and never gave more than he +originally intended. The price of that initial robe having been +determined on, it governed the price of all the rest for the whole +trade, regardless of size or fineness, for that day. What was traded +for was then placed by the Indian on one side of the lodge, and the +trader put what he was to give on the other. After prices had been +agreed upon, business went on very rapidly, and many thousand dollars' +worth of valuable furs were soon collected by the successful trader, +which he shipped to St. Louis and converted into gold. + +In a few years, relatively, the Indian began to appreciate the value +of our medium of exchange and the power it gave him to secure at the +stores in the widely scattered hamlets and at the military posts on +the plains, those things he coveted, at a fairer equivalent than in +the uncertain and complicated method of direct barter. It was not +very long after the advent of the overland coaches on the Santa Fe +Trail, that our currency, even the greenbacks, had assumed a value +to the savage, which he at least partially understood. Whenever the +Indians successfully raided the stages the mail sacks were no longer +torn to pieces or thrown aside as worthless, but every letter was +carefully scrutinized for possible bills. + +I well remember, when the small copper cent, with its spread eagle +upon it, was first issued, about the year 1857, how the soldiers of +a frontier garrison where I was stationed at the time palmed them off +upon the simple savages as two dollar and a half gold pieces, which +they resembled as long as they retained their brightness, and with +which the Indians were familiar, as many were received by the troops +from the paymaster every two months, the savages receiving them in +turn for horses and other things purchased of them by the soldiers. + +I have known of Indians who gave nuggets of gold for common calico +shirts costing two dollars in that region and seventy-five cents in +the States, while the lump of precious metal was worth, perhaps, +five or seven dollars. As late as twenty-eight years ago, I have +traded for beautifully smoke-tanned and porcupine-embroidered +buffalo-robes for my own use, giving in exchange a mere loaf of bread +or a cupful of brown sugar. + +Very early in the history of the United States, in 1786, the government, +under the authority of Congress, established a plan of trade with +the Indians. It comprised supplying all their physical wants without +profit; factories, or stations as they were called, were erected at +points that were then on the remote frontier; where factors, clerks, +and interpreters were stationed. The factors furnished goods of all +kinds to the Indians, and received from them in exchange furs and +peltries. There was an officer in charge of all these stations called +the superintendent of Indian trade, appointed by the President. +As far back as 1821, there were stations at Prairie du Chien, +Fort Edward, Fort Osage, with branches at Chicago, Green Bay in +Arkansas, on the Red River, and other places in the then far West. +These stations were movable, and changed from time to time to suit the +convenience of the Indians. In 1822 the whole system was abolished +by act of Congress, and its affairs wound up, the American Fur Company, +the Missouri Fur Company, and a host of others having by that time +become powerful. Like the great corporations of to-day, they +succeeded in supplanting the government establishments. Of course, +the Indians of the remote plains, which included all the vast region +west of the Missouri River, never had the benefits of the government +trading establishments, but were left to the tender mercies of the +old plainsmen and trappers. + +Until the railroad reached the mountains, when the march of a wonderful +immigration closely followed, usurping the lands claimed by the +savages, and the latter were driven, perforce, upon reservations, +the winter camps of the Kiowas, Arapahoes, and Cheyennes were strung +along the Old Trail for miles, wherever a belt of timber on the margin +of the Arkansas, or its tributaries, could be found large enough to +furnish fuel for domestic purposes and cottonwood bark for the vast +herds of ponies in the severe snow-storms. + +At these various points the Indians congregated to trade with the +whites. As stated, Bent's Fort, the Pueblo Fort, and Big Timbers +were favourite resorts, and the trappers and old hunters passed a +lively three or four months every year, indulging in the amusements +I have referred to. They were also wonderful story-tellers, and +around their camp-fires many a tale of terrible adventure with Indians +and vicious animals was nightly related. + +Baptiste Brown was one of the most famous trappers. Few men had seen +more of wild life in the great prairie wilderness. He had hunted +with nearly every tribe of Indians on the plains and in the mountains, +was often at Bent's Fort, and his soul-stirring narratives made him +a most welcome guest at the camp-fire. + +He lived most of his time in the Wind River Mountains, in a beautiful +little valley named after him "Brown's Hole." It has a place on the +maps to-day, and is on what was then called Prairie River, or +Sheetskadee, by the Indians; it is now known as Green River, and is +the source of the great Colorado. + +The valley, which is several thousand feet above the sea-level, +is about fifteen miles in circumference, surrounded by lofty hills, +and is aptly, though not elegantly, characterized as a "hole." +The mountain-grass is of the most nutritious quality; groves of +cottonwood trees and willows are scattered through the sequestered +spot, and the river, which enters it from the north, is a magnificent +stream; in fact, it is the very ideal of a hunter's headquarters. + +The temperature is very equable, and at one time, years ago, hundreds +of trappers made it their winter quarters. Indians, too, of all the +northern tribes, but more especially the Arapahoes, frequented it to +trade with the white men. + +Baptiste Brown was a Canadian who spoke villanous French and worse +English; his vocabulary being largely interspersed with "enfant de +garce," "sacre," "sacre enfant," and "damn" until it was a difficult +matter to tell what he was talking about. + +He was married to an Arapahoe squaw, and his strange wooing and +winning of the dusky maiden is a thrilling love-story. + +Among the maidens who came with the Arapahoes, when that tribe made +a visit to "Brown's Hole" one winter for the purpose of trading with +the whites, was a young, merry, and very handsome girl, named "Unami," +who after a few interviews completely captured Baptiste's heart. +Nothing was more common, as I have stated, than marriages between +the trappers and a beautiful redskin. Isolated absolutely from women +of his own colour, the poor mountaineer forgets he is white, which, +considering the embrowning influence of constant exposure and sunlight, +is not so marvellous after all. For a portion of the year there is +no hunting, and then idleness is the order of the day. At such times +the mountaineer visits the lodges of his dark neighbours for amusement, +and in the spirited dance many a heart is lost to the squaws. +The young trapper, like other enamoured ones of his sex in civilization, +lingers around the house of his fair sweetheart while she transforms +the soft skin of the doe into moccasins, ornamenting them richly +with glittering beads or the coloured quills of the porcupine, all +the time lightening the long hours with the plain-songs of their tribe. +It was upon an occasion of this character that Baptiste, then in the +prime of his youthful manhood, first loved the dark-eyed Arapahoe. + +The course open to him was to woo and win her; but alas! savage papas +are just like fathers in the best civilization--the only difference +between them is that the former are more open and matter-of-fact, +since in savage etiquette a consideration is required in exchange +for the daughter, which belongs exclusively to the parent, and must +be of equal marketable value to the girl. + +The usual method is to select your best horse, take him to the lodge +of your inamorata's parents, tie him to a tree, and walk away. +If the animal is considered a fair exchange, matters are soon settled +satisfactorily; if not, other gifts must be added. + +At this juncture poor Baptiste was in a bad fix; he had disposed of +all his season's earnings for his winter's subsistence, much of which +consisted of an ample supply of whiskey and tobacco; so he had +nothing left wherewith to purchase the indispensable horse. Without +the animal no wife was to be had, and he was in a terrible predicament; +for the hunting season was long since over, and it wanted a whole +month of the time for a new starting out. + +Baptiste was a very determined man, however, and he shouldered his +rifle, intent on accomplishing by a laborious prosecution of the +chase the means of winning his loved one from her parents, +notwithstanding that the elements and the times were against him. +He worked industriously, and after many days was rewarded by a goodly +supply of beavers, otters, and mink which he had trapped, besides +many a deerskin whose wearer he had shot. Returning to his lodge, +where he cached his peltry, he again started out for the forest with +hope filling his heart. Three weeks passed in indifferent success, +when one morning, having entered a deep canyon, which evidently led +out to an open prairie where he thought game might be found, while +busy cutting his way through a thicket of briers with his knife, +he suddenly came upon a little valley, where he saw what caused him +to retrace his footsteps into the thicket. + +And here it is necessary to relate a custom peculiar to all Indian +tribes. No young man, though his father were the greatest chief in +the nation, can range himself among the warriors, be entitled to +enter the marriage state, or enjoy any other rights of savage +citizenship until he shall have performed some act of personal +bravery and daring, or be sprinkled with the blood of his enemies. +In the early springtime, therefore, all the young men who are of the +proper age band themselves together and take to the forest in search +--like the knight-errant of old--of adventure and danger. Having +decided upon a secluded and secret spot, they collect a number of +poles from twenty to thirty feet in length, and, lashing them together +at the small ends, form a huge conical lodge, which they cover with +grass and boughs. Inside they deposit various articles, with which +to "make medicine," or as a propitiatory offering to the Great Spirit; +generally a green buffalo head, kettles, scalps, blankets, and other +things of value, of which the most prominent and revered is the +sacred pipe. The party then enters the lodge and the first ceremony +is smoking this pipe. One of the young men fills it with tobacco and +herbs, places a coal on it from the fire that has been already +kindled in the lodge, and, taking the stem in his mouth, inhales the +smoke and expels it through his nostrils. The ground is touched with +the bowl, the four points of the compass are in turn saluted, and +with various ceremonies it makes the round of the lodge. After many +days of feasting and dancing the party is ready for a campaign, when +they abandon the lodge, and it is death for any one else to enter, +or by any means to desecrate it while its projectors are absent. + +It was upon one of these mystic lodges that Baptiste had accidentally +stumbled, and strange thoughts flashed through his mind; for within +the sacred place were articles, doubtless, of value more than +sufficient to purchase the necessary horse with which he could win +the fair Unami. Baptiste was sorely tempted, but there was an +instinctive respect for religion in the minds of the old trappers, +and Brown had too much honour to think of robbing the Indian temple, +although he distinctly remembered a time when a poor white trapper, +having been robbed of his poncho at the beginning of winter, made +free with a blanket he had found in one of these Arapahoe sacred +lodges. When he was brought before the medicine men of the tribe, +charged with the sacrilege, his defence, that, having been robbed, +the Great Spirit took pity on him and pointed out the blanket and +ordered him to clothe himself, was considered good, on the theory +that the Great Spirit had an undoubted right to give away his own +property; consequently the trapper was set free. + +Brown, after considering the case, was about to move away, when a hand +was laid on his shoulder, and turning round there stood before him +an Indian in full war-paint. + +The greeting was friendly, for the young savage was the brother of +Baptiste's love, to whom he had given many valuable presents during +the past season. + +"My white brother is very wakeful; he rises early." + +Baptiste laughed, and replied: "Yes, because my lodge is empty. +If I had Unami for a wife, I would not have to get out before the sun; +and I would always have a soft seat for her brother; he will be a +great warrior." + +The young brave shook his head gravely, as be pointed to his belt, +where not a scalp was to be seen, and said: "Five moons have gone +to sleep and the Arapahoe hatchet has not been raised. The Blackfeet +are dogs, and hide in their holes." + +Without adding anything to this hint that none of the young men had +been able to fulfil their vows, the disconsolate savage led the way +to the camp of the other Arapahoes, his companions in the quest for +scalps. Baptiste was very glad to see the face of a fellow-creature +once more, and he cheerfully followed the footsteps of the young brave, +which were directed away from the medicine lodge toward the rocky +canyon which he had already travelled that morning, where in the very +centre of the dark defile, and within twenty feet of where he had +recently passed, was the camp of the disappointed band. Baptiste was +cordially received, and invited to share the meal of which the party +were about to partake, after which the pipe was passed around. +In a little while the Indians began to talk among themselves by signs, +which made Baptiste feel somewhat uncomfortable, for it was apparent +that he was the object of their interest. + +They had argued that Brown's skin indicated that he belonged to the +great tribe of their natural enemies, and with the blood of a white +on their garments, they would have fulfilled the terms of their vow +to their friends and the Great Spirit. + +Noticing the trend of the debate, which would lead his friend into +trouble, the brother of Unami arose, and waving his hand said:-- + +"The Arapahoe is a warrior; his feet outstrip the fleetest horse; +his arrow is as the lightning of the Great Spirit; he is very brave. +But a cloud is between him and the sun; he cannot see his enemy; +there is yet no scalp in his lodge. The Great Spirit is good; +he sends a victim, a man whose skin is white, but his heart is very +red; the pale-face is a brother, and his long knife is turned from +his friends, the Arapahoes; but the Great Spirit is all-powerful. +My brother"--pointing to Baptiste--"is very full of blood; he can spare +a little to stain the blankets of the young men, and his heart shall +still be warm; I have spoken." + +As Baptiste expressed it: "Sacre enfant de garce; damn, de ting vas +agin my grain, but de young Arapahoe he have saved my life." + +Loud acclamation followed the speech of Unami's brother, and many of +those most clamorous against the white trapper, being actuated by +the earnest desire of returning home with their vow accomplished, +when they would be received into the list of warriors, and have wives +and other honours, were unanimous in agreeing to the proposed plan. + +A flint lancet was produced, Baptiste's arm was bared, and the blood +which flowed from the slight wound was carefully distributed, and +scattered over the robes of the delighted Arapahoes. + +The scene which followed was quite unexpected to Baptiste, who was +only glad to escape the death to which the majority had doomed him. +The Indians, perfectly satisfied that their vow of shedding an enemy's +blood had been fulfilled, were all gratitude; and to testify that +gratitude in a substantial manner each man sought his pack, and laid +at the feet of the surprised Baptiste a rich present. One gave an +otter skin, another that of a buffalo, and so on until his wealth in +furs outstripped his most sanguine expectations from his hunt. +The brother of Unami stood passively looking on until all the others +had successively honoured his guest, when he advanced toward Baptiste, +leading by its bridle a magnificent horse, fully caparisoned, and +a large pack-mule. To refuse would have been the most flagrant breach +of Indian etiquette, and beside, Brown was too alive to the advantage +that would accrue to him to be other than very thankful. + +The camp was then broken up, and the kind savages were soon lost to +Baptiste's sight as they passed down the canyon; and he, as soon as he +had gained a little strength, for he was weak from the blood he had +shed in the good cause, mounted his horse, after loading the mule +with his gifts, and made the best of his way to his lonely lodge, +where he remained several days. He then sold his furs at a good +price, as it was so early in the season, bartered for a large quantity +of knives, beads, powder, and balls, and returned to the Arapahoe +village, where the horse was considered a fair exchange for the +pretty Unami; and from that day, for over thirty years, they lived +as happy as any couple in the highest civilization. + +The fate of the Pueblo, where the trappers and hunters had such good +times in the halcyon days of the border, like that which befell +nearly all the trading-posts and ranches on the Old Santa Fe Trail, +was to be partially destroyed by the savages. During the early +months of the winter of 1854, the Utes swept down through the Arkansas +valley, leaving a track of blood behind them, and frightening the +settlers so thoroughly that many left the country never to return. +The outbreak was as sudden as it was devastating. The Pueblo was +captured by the savages, and every man, woman, and child in it +murdered, with the exception of one aged Mexican, and he was so badly +wounded that he died in a few days. + +His story was that the Utes came to the gates of the fort on Christmas +morning, professing the greatest friendship, and asking permission +to be allowed to come inside and hold a peace conference. All who +were in the fort at the time were Mexicans, and as their cupidity +led them to believe that they could do some advantageous trading +with the Indians, they foolishly permitted the whole band to enter. +The result was that a wholesale massacre followed. There were +seventeen persons in all quartered there, only one of whom escaped +death--the old man referred to--and a woman and her two children, +who were carried off as captives; but even she was killed before the +savages had gone a mile from the place. What became of the children +was never known; they probably met the same fate. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. +UNCLE JOHN SMITH. + + + +Many of the men of the border were blunt in manners, rude in speech, +driven to the absolute liberty of the far West with better natures +shattered and hopes blasted, to seek in the exciting life of the +plainsman and mountaineer oblivion of some incidents of their youthful +days, which were better forgotten. Yet these aliens from society, +these strangers to the refinements of civilization, who would tear off +a bloody scalp even with grim smiles of satisfaction, were fine +fellows, full of the milk of human kindness, and would share their +last slapjack with a hungry stranger. + +Uncle John Smith, as he was known to every trapper, trader, and +hunter from the Yellowstone to the Gila, was one of the most famous +and eccentric men of the early days. In 1826, as a boy, he ran away +from St. Louis with a party of Santa Fe traders, and so fascinated +was he with the desultory and exciting life, that he chose to sit +cross-legged, smoking the long Indian pipe, in the comfortable +buffalo-skin teepee, rather than cross legs on the broad table of +his master, a tailor to whom he had been apprenticed when he took +French leave from St. Louis. + +He spent his first winter with the Blackfeet Indians, but came very +near losing his scalp in their continual quarrels, and therefore +allied himself with the more peaceable Sioux. Once while on the +trail of a horse-stealing band of Arapahoes near the head waters +of the Arkansas, the susceptible young hunter fell in love with +a very pretty Cheyenne squaw, married her, and remained true to the +object of his early affection during all his long and eventful life, +extending over a period of forty years. For many decades he lived +with his dusky wife as the Indians did, having been adopted by the +tribe. He owned a large number of horses, which constituted the +wealth of the plains Indians, upon the sale of which he depended +almost entirely for his subsistence. He became very powerful in the +Cheyenne nation; was regarded as a chief, taking an active part in +the councils, and exercising much authority. His excellent judgment +as a trader with the various bands of Indians while he was employed +by the great fur companies made his services invaluable in the +strange business complications of the remote border. Besides +understanding the Cheyenne language as well as his native tongue, +he also spoke three other Indian dialects, French, and Spanish, but +with many Western expressions that sometimes grated harshly upon +the grammatical ear. + +He became a sort of autocrat on the plains and in the mountains; and +for an Indian or Mexican to attempt to effect a trade without Uncle +John Smith having something to say about it, and its conditions, was +hardly possible. The New Mexicans often came in small parties to his +Indian village, their burros packed with dry pumpkin, corn, etc., +to trade for buffalo-robes, bearskins, meat, and ponies; and Smith, +who knew his power, exacted tribute, which was always paid. At one +time, however, when for some reason a party of strange Mexicans +refused, Uncle John harangued the people of the village, and called +the young warriors together, who emptied every sack of goods belonging +to the cowering Mexicans on the ground, Smith ordering the women and +children to help themselves, an order which was obeyed with alacrity. +The frightened Mexicans left hurriedly for El Valle de Taos, whence +they had come, crossing themselves and uttering thanks to Heaven for +having retained their scalps. This and other similar cases so +intimidated the poor Greasers, and impressed them so deeply with +a sense of Smith's power, that, ever after, his permission to trade +was craved by a special deputation of the parties, accompanied by +peace-offerings of corn, pumpkin, and pinole. At one time, when +Smith was journeying by himself a day's ride from the Cheyenne village, +he was met by a party of forty or more corn traders, who, instead of +putting such a bane to their prospects speedily out of the way, +gravely asked him if they could proceed, and offered him every third +robe they had to accompany them, which he did. Indeed, he became so +regardless of justice, in his condescension to the natives of +New Mexico, that the governor of that province offered a reward of +five hundred dollars for him alive or dead, but fear of the Cheyennes +was so prevalent that his capture was never even attempted. + +During Sheridan's memorable winter campaign against the allied tribes +in 1868-69, the old man, for he was then about sixty, was my guide +and interpreter. He shared my tent and mess, a most welcome addition +to the few who sat at my table, and beguiled many a weary hour at +night, after our tedious marches through the apparently interminable +sand dunes and barren stretches of our monotonous route, with his +tales of that period, more than half a century ago, when our +mid-continent region was as little known as the topography of the +planet Mars. + +At the close of December, 1868, a few weeks after the battle of the +Washita, I was camping with my command on the bank of that historic +stream in the Indian Territory, waiting with an immense wagon-train +of supplies for the arrival of General Custer's command, the famous +Seventh Cavalry, and also the Nineteenth Kansas, which were supposed +to be lost, or wandering aimlessly somewhere in the region south of us. + +I had been ordered to that point by General Sheridan, with instructions +to keep fires constantly burning on three or four of the highest +peaks in the vicinity of our camp, until the lost troops should be +guided to the spot by our signals. These signals were veritable +pillars of fire by night and pillars of cloud by day; for there was +an abundance of wood and hundreds of men ready to feed the hungry flames. + +It was more than two weeks before General Custer and his famished +troopers began to straggle in. During that period of anxious waiting +we lived almost exclusively on wild turkey, and longed for nature's +meat--the buffalo; but there were none of the shaggy beasts at that +time in the vicinity, so we had to content ourselves with the birds, +of which we became heartily tired. + +For several days after our arrival on the creek, the men had been +urging Uncle John to tell them another story of his early adventures; +but the old trapper was in one of his silent moods--he frequently had +them--and could not be persuaded to emerge from his shell of reticence +despite their most earnest entreaties. I knew it would be of no use +for me to press him. I could, of course, order him to any duty, and +he would promptly obey; but his tongue, like the hand of Douglas, +was his own. I knew, also, that when he got ready, which would be +when some incident of camp-life inspired him, he would be as garrulous +as ever. + +One evening just before supper, a party of enlisted men who had been +up the creek to catch fish, but had failed to take anything owing to +the frozen condition of the stream, returned with the skeleton of +a Cheyenne Indian which they had picked up on the battle-ground of +a month previously--one of Custer's victims in his engagement with +Black Kettle. This was the incentive Uncle John required. As he +gazed on the bleached bones of the warrior, he said: "Boys, I'm going +to tell you a good long story to-night. Them Ingin's bones has put +me in mind of it. After we've eat, if you fellows wants to hear it, +come down to headquarters tent, and I'll give it to you." + +Of course word was rapidly passed from one to another, as the whole +camp was eager to hear the old trapper again. In a short time, +every man not on guard or detailed to keep up the signals on the +hills gathered around the dying embers of the cook's fire in front of +my tent; the enlisted men and teamsters in groups by themselves, +the officers a little closer in a circle, in the centre of which +Uncle John sat. + +The night was cold, the sky covered with great fleecy patches, +through which the full moon, just fairly risen, appeared to be racing, +under the effect of that optical illusion caused by the rapidly +moving clouds. The coyotes had commenced their nocturnal concert +in the timbered recesses of the creek not far away, and on the +battle-field a short distance beyond, as they battened and fought +over the dead warriors and the carcasses of twelve hundred ponies +killed in that terrible slaughter by the intrepid Custer and his +troopers. The signals on the hills leaped into the crisp air like +the tongues of dragons in the myths of the ancients; in fact, +the whole aspect of the place, as we sat around the blazing logs of +our camp-fire, was weird and uncanny. + +Every one was eager for the veteran guide to begin his tale; but as +I knew he could not proceed without smoking, I passed him my pouch +of Lone Jack--the brand par excellence in the army at that time. + +Uncle John loaded his corn-cob, picked up a live coal, and, pressing +it down on the tobacco with his thumb, commenced to puff vigorously. +As soon as his withered old face was half hidden in a cloud of smoke, +he opened his story in his stereotyped way. I relate it just as he +told it, but divested of much of its dialect, so difficult to write:-- + +"Well, boys, it's a good many years ago, in June, 1845, if I don't +disremember. I was about forty-three, and had been in the mountains +and on the plains more than nineteen seasons. You see, I went out +there in 1826. There warn't no roads, nuthin' but the Santa Fe Trail, +in them days, and Ingins and varmints. + +"There was four of us. Me, Bill Comstock, Dick Curtis, and Al Thorpe. +Dick was took in by the Utes two years afterwards at the foot of the +Spanish Peaks, and Al was killed by the Apaches at Pawnee Rock, in 1847. + +"We'd been trapping up on Medicine Bow for more than three years +together, and had a pile of beaver, otter, mink, and other varmint's +skins cached in the hills, which we know'd was worth a heap of money; +so we concluded to take them to the river that summer. We started +from our trapping camp in April, and 'long 'bout the middle of June +reached the Arkansas, near what is know'd as Point o' Rocks. You all +know where them is on the Trail west of Fort Dodge, and how them +rocks rises up out of the prairie sudden-like. We was a travelling +'long mighty easy, for we was all afoot, and had hoofed it the whole +distance, more than six hundred miles, driving five good mules ahead +of us. Our furs was packed on four of them, and the other carried +our blankets, extry ammunition, frying-pan, coffee-pot, and what +little grub we had, for we was obliged to depend upon buffalo, +antelope, and jack-rabbits; but, boys, I tell you there was millions +of 'em in them days. + +"We had just got into camp at Point o' Rocks. It was 'bout four +o'clock in the afternoon; none of us carried watches, we always +reckoned time by the sun, and could generally guess mighty close, too. +It was powerful hot, I remember. We'd hobbled our mules close to the +ledge, where the grass was good, so they couldn't be stampeded, as +we know'd we was in the Pawnee country, and they was the most ornery +Ingins on the plains. We know'd nothing that was white ever came by +that part of the Trail without having a scrimmage with the red devils. + +"Well, we hadn't more than took our dinner, when them mules give +a terrible snort, and tried to break and run, getting awful oneasy +all to once. Them critters can tell when Ingins is around. They's +better than a dozen dogs. I don't know how they can tell, but they +just naturally do. + +"In less than five minutes after them mules began to worry, stopped +eating, and had their ears pricked up a trying to look over the ledge +towards the river, we heard a sharp firing down on the Trail, which +didn't appear to be more than a hundred yards off. You ought to seen +us grab our rifles sudden, and run out from behind them rocks, where +we was a camping, so comfortable-like, and just going to light our +pipes for a good smoke. It didn't take us no time to get down on to +the Trail, where we seen a Mexican bull train, that we know'd must +have come from Santa Fe, and which had stopped and was trying to corral. +More than sixty painted Pawnees was a circling around the outfit, +howling as only them can howl, and pouring a shower of arrows into +the oxen. Some was shaking their buffalo-robes, trying to stampede +the critters, so they could kill the men easier. + +"We lit out mighty lively, soon as we seen what was going on, and +reached the head of the train just as the last wagon, that was +furtherest down the Trail, nigh a quarter of a mile off, was cut out +by part of the band. Then we seen a man, a woman, and a little boy +jump out, and run to get shet of the Ingins what had cut out the +wagon from the rest of the train. One of the red devils killed the +man and scalped him, while the other pulled the woman up in front +of him, and rid off into the sand hills, and out of sight in a minute. +Then the one what had killed her husband started for the boy, who was +a running for the train as fast as his little legs could go. But we +was nigh enough then; and just as the Ingin was reaching down from +his pony for the kid, Al Thorpe--he was a powerful fine shot--draw'd up +his gun and took the red cuss off his critter without the paint-bedaubed +devil know'n' what struck him. + +"The boy, seeing us, broke and run for where we was, and I reckon +the rest of the Ingins seen us then for the first time, too. We was +up with the train now, which was kind o' halfway corralled, and +Dick Curtis picked up the child--he warn't more than seven years old-- +and throw'd him gently into one of the wagons, where he'd be out of +the way; for we know'd there was going to be considerable more +fighting before night. We know'd, too, we Americans would have to do +the heft of it, as them Mexican bull-whackers warn't much account, +nohow, except to cavort around and swear in Spanish, which they +hadn't done nothing else since we'd come up to the train; besides, +their miserable guns warn't much better than so many bows and arrows. + +"We Americans talked together for a few moments as to what was best +to be did, while the Ingins all this time was keeping up a lively +fire for them. We made as strong a corral of the wagons as we could, +driving out what oxen the Mexicans had put in the one they had made, +but you can't do much with only nine wagons, nohow. Fortunately, +while we was fixing things, the red cusses suddenly retreated out of +the range of our rifles, and we first thought they had cleared out +for good. We soon discovered, however, they were only holding a +pow-wow; for in a few minutes back they come, mounted on their ponies, +with all their fixin's and fresh war-paint on. + +"Then they commenced to circle around us again, coming a little +nearer--Ingin fashion--every time they rid off and back. It wasn't +long before they got in easy range, when they slung themselves on +the off-side of their ponies and let fly their arrows and balls from +under their critters' necks. Their guns warn't much 'count, being +only old English muskets what had come from the Hudson Bay Fur Company, +so they didn't do no harm that round, except to scare the Mexicans, +which commenced to cross themselves and pray and swear. + +"We four Americans warn't idle when them Ingins come a charging up; +we kept our eye skinned, and whenever we could draw a bead, one of +them tumbled off his pony, you bet! When they'd come back for their +dead--we'd already killed three of them--we had a big advantage, wasted +no shots, and dropped four of them; one apiece, and you never heard +Ingins howl so. It was getting kind o' dark by this time, and the +varmints didn't seem anxious to fight any more, but went down to the +river and scooted off into the sand hills on the other side. +We waited more than half an hour for them, but as they didn't come +back, concluded we'd better light out too. We told the Mexicans to +yoke up, and as good luck would have it they found all the cattle +close by, excepting them what pulled the wagon what the Ingins had +cut out, and as it was way down the Trail, we had to abandon it; +for it was too dark to hunt it up, as we had no time to fool away. + +"We put all our outfit into the train; it wasn't loaded, but going +empty to the Missouri, to fetch back a sawmill for New Mexico. +Then we made a soft bed in the middle wagon out of blankets for the +kid, and rolled out 'bout ten o'clock, meaning to put as many miles +between us and them Ingins as the oxen could stand. We four hoofed it +along for a while, then rid a piece, catching a nap now and then as +best we could, for we was monstrous tired. By daylight we'd made +fourteen miles, and was obliged to stop to let the cattle graze. +We boiled our coffee, fried some meat, and by that time the little +boy waked. He'd slept like a top all night and hadn't no supper +either; so when I went to the wagon where he was to fetch him out, +he just put them baby arms of his'n around my neck, and says, +'Where's mamma?' + +"I tell you, boys, that nigh played me out. He had no idee, 'cause +he was too young to realize what had happened; we know'd his pa was +killed, but where his ma was, God only know'd!" + +Here the old man stopped short in his narrative, made two or three +efforts as if to swallow something that would not go down, while his +eyes had a far-away look. Presently he picked up a fresh coal from +the fire, placed it on his pipe, which had gone out, then puffing +vigorously for a few seconds, until his head was again enveloped in +smoke, he continued:-- + +"After I'd washed the little fellow's face and hands, I gave him a +tin cup of coffee and some meat. You'd ought to seen him eat; he was +hungrier than a coyote. Then while the others was a watering and +picketing the mules, I sot down on the grass and took the kid into +my lap to have a good look at him; for until now none of us had had +a chance. + +"He was the purtiest child I'd ever seen; great black eyes, and +eyelashes that laid right on to his cheeks; his hair, too, was black, +and as curly as a young big-horn. I asked him what his name was, and +he says, 'Paul.' 'Hain't you got no other name?' says I to him again, +and he answered, 'Yes, sir,' for he was awful polite; I noticed that. +'Paul Dale,' says he prompt-like, and them big eyes of his'n looked +up into mine, as he says 'What be yourn?' I told him he must call me +'Uncle John,' and then he says again, as he put his arms around my +neck, his little lips all a quivering, and looking so sorrowful, +'Uncle John, where's mamma; why don't she come?' + +"Boys, I don't really know what I did say. A kind o' mist came +before my eyes, and for a minute or two I didn't know nothing. +I come to in a little while, and seeing Thorpe bringing up the mules +from the river, where he'd been watering them, I says to Paul, to get +his mind on to something else besides his mother, 'Don't you want to +ride one of them mules when we pull out again?' The little fellow +jumped off my lap, clapped his hands, forgetting his trouble all at +once, child-like, and replied, 'I do, Uncle John, can I?' + +"After we'd camped there 'bout three hours, the cattle full of grass +and all laying down chewing their cud, we concluded to move on and +make a few miles before it grow'd too hot, and to get further from +the Ingins, which we expected would tackle us again, as soon as they +could get back from their camp, where we felt sure they had gone for +reinforcements. + +"While the Mexicans was yoking up, me and Thorpe rigged an easy +saddle on one of the mules, out of blankets, for the kid to ride on, +and when we was all ready to pull out, I histed him on, and you never +see a youngster so tickled. + +"We had to travel mighty slow; couldn't make more than eighteen miles +a day with oxen, and that was in two drives, one early in the morning, +and one in the evening when it was cool, a laying by and grazing when +it was hot. We Americans walked along the Trail, and mighty slow +walking it was; 'bout two and a half miles an hour. I kept close +to Paul, for I began to set a good deal of store by him; he seemed +to cotton to me more than he did to the rest, wanting to stick near +me most of the time as he rid on the mule. I wanted to find out +something 'bout his folks, where they'd come from; so that when we +got to Independence, perhaps I could turn him over to them as ought +to have him; though in my own mind I was ornery enough to wish I +might never find them, and he'd be obliged to stay with me. The boy +was too young to tell what I wanted to find out; all I could get out +of him was they'd been living in Santa Fe since he was a baby, and +that his papa was a preacher. I 'spect one of them missionaries +'mong the heathenish Greasers. He said they was going back to his +grandma's in the States, but he could not tell where. I couldn't +get nothing out of them Mexican bull-whackers neither--what they +know'd wasn't half as much as the kid--and I had to give it up. + +"Well, we kept moving along without having any more trouble for +a week; them Ingins never following us as we 'lowed they would. +I really enjoyed the trip such as I never had before. Paul he was +so 'fectionate and smart, that he 'peared to fill a spot in my heart +what had always been hollow until then. When he'd got tired of +riding the mule or in one of the wagons, he'd come and walk along +the Trail with me, a picking flowers, chasing the prairie-owls and +such, until his little legs 'bout played out, when I'd hist him on +his mule again. When we'd go into camp, Paul, he'd run and pick up +buffalo-chips for the fire, and wanted to help all he could. +Then when it came time to go to sleep, the boy would always get under +my blankets and cuddle up close to me. He'd be sure to say his +prayers first, though; but it seemed so strange to me who hadn't +heard a prayer for thirty years. I never tried to stop him, you may +be certain of that. He'd ask God to bless his pa and ma, and wind up +with 'Bless Uncle John too.' Then I couldn't help hugging him right +up tighter; for it carried me back to Old Missouri, to the log-cabin +in the woods where I was born, and used to say 'Now I lay me,' and +'Our Father' at my ma's knee, when I was a kid like him. I tell you, +boys, there ain't nothing that will take the conceit out of a man +here on the plains, like the company of a kid what has been +brought up right. + +"I reckon we'd been travelling about ten days since we left Point o' +Rocks, and was on the other side of the Big Bend of the Arkansas, +near the mouth of the Walnut, where Fort Zarah is now. We had went +into camp at sundown, close to a big spring that's there yet. +We drawed up the wagons into a corral on the edge of the river where +there wasn't no grass for quite a long stretch; we done this to kind +o' fortify ourselves, for we expected to have trouble with the Ingins +there, if anywhere, as we warn't but seventeen miles from Pawnee Rock, +the worst place on the whole Trail for them; so we picked out that +bare spot where they couldn't set fire to the prairie. It was long +after dark when we eat our supper; then we smoked our pipes, waiting +for the oxen to fill themselves, which had been driven about a mile +off where there was good grass. The Mexicans was herding them, and +when they'd eat all they could hold, and was commencing to lay down, +they was driven into the corral. Then all of us, except Comstock and +Curtis, turned in; they was to stand guard until 'bout one o'clock, +when me and Thorpe was to change places with them and stay up until +morning; for, you see, we was afraid to trust them Mexicans. + +"It seemed like we hadn't been asleep more than an hour when me and +Thorpe was called to take our turn on guard. We got out of our +blankets, I putting Paul into one of the wagons, then me and Thorpe +lighted our pipes and walked around, keeping our eyes and ears open, +watching the heavy fringe of timber on the creek mighty close, I tell +you. Just as daylight was coming, we noticed that our mules, what +was tied to a wagon in the corral, was getting uneasy, a pawing and +snorting, with their long ears cocked up and looking toward the Walnut. +Before I could finish saying to Thorpe, 'Them mules smells Ingins,' +half a dozen or more of the darned cusses dashed out of the timber, +yelling and shaking their robes, which, of course, waked up the whole +camp. Me and Thorpe sent a couple of shots after them, that scattered +the devils for a minute; but we hadn't hit nary one, because it was +too dark yet to draw a bead on them. We was certain there was a good +many more of them behind the first that had charged us; so we got all +the men on the side of the corral next to the Trail. The Ingins we +know'd couldn't get behind us, on account of the river, and we was +bound to make them fight where we wanted them to, if they meant to +fight at all. + +"In less than a minute, quicker than I can tell you, sure enough, +out they came again, only there was 'bout eighty of them this time. +They made a dash at once, and their arrows fell like a shower of hail +on the ground and against the wagon-sheets as the cusses swept by on +their ponies. There wasn't anybody hurt, and our turn soon came. +Just as they circled back, we poured it into them, killing six and +wounding two. You see them Mexican guns had did some work that we +didn't expect, and then we Americans felt better. Well, boys, +them varmints made four charges like that on to us before we could +get shet of them; but we killed as many as sixteen or eighteen, and +they got mighty sick of it and quit; they had only knocked over one +Mexican, and put an arrow into Thorpe's arm. + +"I was amused at little Paul all the time the scrimmage was going on. +He stood up in the wagon where I'd put him, a looking out of the hole +behind where the sheet was drawed together, and every time an Ingin +was tumbled off his pony, he would clap his hands and yell, 'There +goes another one, Uncle John!' + +"After their last charge, they rode off out of range, where they +stood in little bunches talking to each other, holding some sort of +a pow-wow. It riled us to see the darned cusses keep so far away +from our rifles, because we wanted to lay a few more of them out, but +was obliged to keep still and watch out for some new deviltry. +We waited there until it was plumb night, not daring to move out yet; +but we managed to boil our coffee and fry slap-jacks and meat. + +"The oxen kept up a bellowing and pawing around the corral, for they +was desperate hungry and thirsty, hadn't had nothing since the night +before; yet we couldn't help them any, as we didn't know whether we +was shet of the Ingins or not. We staid, patient-like, for two or +three hours more after dark to see what the Ingins was going to do, +as while we sot round our little fire of buffalo-chips, smoking our +pipes, we could still hear the red devils a howling and chanting, +while they picked up their dead laying along the river-bottom. + +"As soon as morning broke--we'd ketched a nap now and then during +the night--we got ready for another charge of the Ingins, their +favourite time being just 'bout daylight; but there warn't hide or +hair of an Ingin in sight. They'd sneaked off in the darkness long +before the first streak of dawn; had enough of fighting, I expect. +As soon as we discovered they'd all cleared out, we told the drivers +to hitch up, and while they was yoking and watering, me 'n' Curtis +and Comstock buried the dead Mexican on the bank of the river, as we +didn't want to leave his bones to be picked by the coyotes, which +was already setting on the sand hills watching and waiting for us +to break camp. By the time we'd finished our job, and piled some +rocks on his grave, so as the varmints couldn't dig him up, the train +was strung out on the Trail, and then we rolled out mighty lively +for oxen; for the critters was hungry, and we had to travel three +or four miles the other side of the Walnut, where the grass was green, +before they could feed. The oxen seen it on the hills and they +lit out almost at a trot. It was 'bout sun-up when we got there, +when we turned the animals loose, corralled, and had breakfast. + +"After we'd had our smoke, all we had to do was to put in the time +until five o'clock; for we couldn't move before then, as it would be +too hot by the time the oxen got filled. Paul and me went down to +the creek fishing; there was tremendous cat in the Walnut them days, +and by noon we'd ketched five big beauties, which we took to camp and +cooked for dinner. After I'd had my smoke, Paul and me went back to +the creek, where we stretched ourselves under a good-sized box-elder +tree--there wasn't no shade nowhere else--and took a sleep, while +Comstock and Curtis went jack-rabbit hunting across the river, as we +was getting scarce of meat. + +"Thorpe, who was hit in the arm with an arrow, couldn't do much but +nuss his wound; so him and the Mexicans stood guard, a looking out +for Ingins, as we didn't know but what the cusses might come back and +make another raid on us, though we really didn't expect they would +have the gall to bother us any more--least not the same outfit what +had fought us the day before. That evening, 'bout six o'clock, +we rolled out again and went into camp late, having made twelve miles, +and didn't see a sign of Ingins. + +"In ten days more we got to Independence without having no more +trouble of no kind, and was surprised at our luck. At Independence +we Americans left the train, sold our furs, got a big price, too-- +each of us had a shot-bag full of gold and silver, more money than +we know'd what to do with. Me, Curtis, and Thorpe concluded we'd buy +a new outfit, consisting of another six-mule wagon, and harness, +so we'd have a full team, meaning to go back to the mountains with +the first big caravan what left. + +"All the folks in the settlement what seen Paul took a great fancy +to him. Some wanted to adopt him, and some said I'd ought to take +him to St. Louis and place him in an orphan asylum; but I 'lowed if +there was going to be any adopting done, I'd do it myself, 'cause +the kid seemed now just as if he was my own; besides the little +fellow I know'd loved me and didn't want me to leave him. I had +kin-folks in Independence, an old aunt, and me and Paul staid there. +She had a young gal with her, and she learned Paul out of books; +so he picked up considerable, as we had to wait more than two months +before Colonel St. Vrain's caravan was ready to start for New Mexico. + +"I bought Paul a coal-black pony, and had a suit of fine buckskin +made for him out of the pelt of a black-tail deer I'd shot the winter +before on Powder River. The seams of his trousers was heavily +fringed, and with his white sombrero, a riding around town on his +pony, he looked like one of them Spanish Dons what the papers +nowadays has pictures of; only he was smarter-looking than any Don +I ever see in my life. + +"It was 'bout the last of August when we pulled out from Independence. +Comstock staid with us until we got ready to go, and then lit out +for St. Louis, and I hain't never seen him since. The caravan had +seventy-five six-mule teams in it, without counting ours, loaded with +dry-goods and groceries for Mora, New Mexico, where Colonel St. Vrain, +the owner, lived and had a big store. We had no trouble with the +Ingins going back across the plains; we seen lots, to be sure, +hanging on our trail, but they never attacked us; we was too strong +for them. + +"'Bout the last of September we reached Bent's Old Fort, on the +Arkansas, where the Santa Fe Trail crosses the river into New Mexico, +and we camped there the night we got to it. + +"I know'd they had cows up to the fort; so just before we was ready +for supper, I took Paul and started to see if we couldn't get some +milk for our coffee. It wasn't far, and we was camped a few hundred +yards from the gate, just outside the wall. Well, we went into the +kitchen, Paul right alongside of me, and there I seen a white woman +leaning over the adobe hearth a cooking--they had always only been +squaws before. She naturally looked up to find out who was coming in, +and when she seen the kid, all at once she give a scream, dropped the +dish-cloth she had in her hand, made a break for Paul, throw'd her +arms around him, nigh upsetting me, and says, while she was a sobbing +and taking on dreadful,-- + +"'My boy! My boy! Then I hain't prayed and begged the good Lord +all these days and nights for nothing!' Then she kind o' choked +again, while Paul, he says, as he hung on to her,-- + +"'O mamma! O mamma! I know'd you'd come back! I know'd you'd +come back!' + +"Well, there, boys, I just walked out of that kitchen a heap faster +than I'd come into it, and shut the door. When I got outside, for +a few minutes I couldn't see nothing, I was worked up so. As soon +as I come to, I went through the gate down to camp as quick as my +legs would carry me, to tell Thorpe and Curtis that Paul had found +his ma. They wanted to know all about it, but I couldn't tell them +nothing, I was so dumfounded at the way things had turned out. +We talked among ourselves a moment, then reckoned it was the best +to go up to the fort together, and ask the woman how on earth she'd +got shet of the Ingins what had took her off, and how it come she +was cooking there. We started out and when we got into the kitchen, +there was Paul and Mrs. Dale, and you never see no people so happy. +They was just as wild as a stampeded steer; she seemed to have growed +ten years younger than when I first went up there, and as for Paul, +he was in heaven for certain. + +"First we had to tell her how we'd got the kid, and how we'd learned +to love him. All the time we was telling of it, and our scrimmages +with the Ingins, she was a crying and hugging Paul as if her heart +was broke. After we'd told all we know'd, we asked her to tell us +her story, which she did, and it showed she was a woman of grit and +education. + +"She said the Ingins what had captured her took her up to their camp +on the Saw Log, a little creek north of Fort Dodge--you all know where +it is--and there she staid that night. Early in the morning they all +started for the north. She watched their ponies mighty close as +they rid along that day, so as to find out which was the fastest; +for she had made up her mind to make her escape the first chance +she got. She looked at the sun once in a while, to learn what course +they was taking; so that she could go back when she got ready, strike +the Sante Fe Trail, and get to some ranch, as she had seen several +while passing through the foot-hills of the Raton Range when she was +with the Mexican train. + +"It was on the night of the fourth day after they had left Saw Log, +and had rid a long distance--was more than a hundred miles on their +journey--when she determined to try and light out. The whole camp +was fast asleep, for the Ingins was monstrous tired. She crawled +out of the lodge where she'd been put with some old squaws, and +going to where the ponies had been picketed, she took a little +iron-gray she'd had her eye on, jumped on his back, with only the +lariat for a bridle and without any saddle, not even a blanket, +took her bearings from the north star, and cautiously moved out. +She started on a walk, until she'd got 'bout four miles from camp, +and then struck a lope, keeping it up all night. By next morning +she'd made some forty miles, and then for the first time since she'd +left her lodge, pulled up and looked back, to see if any of the Ingins +was following her. When she seen there wasn't a living thing in sight, +she got off her pony, watered him out of a small branch, took a drink +herself, but not daring to rest yet, mounted her animal again and +rid on as fast as she could without wearing him out too quickly. + +"Hour after hour she rid on, the pony appearing to have miraculous +endurance, until sundown. By that time she'd crossed the Saline, +the Smoky Hill, and got to the top of the divide between that river +and the Arkansas, or not more than forty miles from the Santa Fe Trail. +Then her wonderful animal seemed to weaken; she couldn't even make +him trot, and she was so nearly played out herself, she could hardly +set steady. What to do, she didn't know. The pony was barely able +to move at a slow walk. She was afraid he would drop dead under her, +and she was compelled to dismount, and in almost a minute, as soon +as she laid down on the prairie, was fast asleep. + +"She had no idee how long she had slept when she woke up. The sun was +only 'bout two hours high. Then she know'd she had been unconscious +since sundown of the day before, or nigh twenty-four hours. Rubbing +her eyes, for she was kind o' bewildered, and looking around, there +she saw her pony as fresh, seemingly, as when she'd started. +He'd had plenty to eat, for the grass was good, but she'd had nothing. +She pulled a little piece of dried buffalo-meat out of her bosom, +which she'd brought along, all she could find at the lodge, and now +nibbled at that, for she was mighty hungry. She was terribly sore +and stiff too, but she mounted at once and pushed on, loping and +walking him by spells. Just at daylight she could make out the +Arkansas right in front of her in the dim gray of the early morning, +not very far off. On the west, the Raton Mountains loomed up like +a great pile of blue clouds, the sight of which cheered her; for she +know'd she would soon reach the Trail. + +"It wasn't quite noon when she struck the Santa Fe Trail. When she +got there, looking to the east, she saw in the distance, not more +than three miles away, a large caravan coming, and then, almost wild +with delight, she dismounted, sot down on the grass, and waited for +it to arrive. In less than an hour, the train come up to where she +was, and as good luck would have it, it happened to be an American +outfit, going to Taos with merchandise. As soon as the master of +the caravan seen her setting on the prairie, he rid up ahead of the +wagons, and she told him her story. He was a kind-hearted man; +had the train stop right there on the bank of the river, though he +wasn't half through his day's drive, so as to make her comfortable +as possible, and give her something to eat; for she was 'bout +played out. He bought the Ingin pony, giving her thirty dollars +for it, and after she had rested for some time, the caravan moved out. +She rid in one of the wagons, on a bed of blankets, and the next +evening arrived at Bent's Old Fort. There she found women-folks, +who cared for her and nussed her; for she was dreadfully sore and +tired after her long ride. Then she was hired to cook, meaning to +work until she'd earned enough to take her back to Pennsylvany, +to her mother's, where she had started for when the Ingins attackted +the train. + +"That night, after listening to her mirac'lous escape, we made up +a 'pot' for her, collecting 'bout eight hundred dollars. The master +of Colonel St. Vrain's caravan, what had come out with us, told her +he was going back again to the river in a couple of weeks, and he'd +take her and Paul in without costing her a cent; besides, she'd be +safer than with any other outfit, as his train was a big one, and +he had all American teamsters. + +"Next morning the caravan went on to Mora, and after we'd bid good-by +to Mrs. Dale and Paul, before which I give the boy two hundred dollars +for himself, me, Thorpe, and Curtis pulled out with our team north +for Frenchman's Creek, and I never felt so miserable before nor since +as I did parting with the kid that morning. I hain't never seen him +since; but he must be nigh forty now. Mebby he went into the war and +was killed; mebby he got to be a general, but I hain't forgot him." + +Uncle John knocked the ashes out of his pipe, and without saying +another word went into the tent. In a few moments the camp was as +quiet as a country village on Sunday, excepting the occasional howling +of a hungry wolf down in the timbered recesses of the Washita, or the +crackling and sputtering of the signal fires on the hilltops. + +In a few days afterward, we were camping on Hackberry Creek, in the +Indian Territory. We had been living on wild turkey, as before for +some time, and still longed for a change. At last one of my hunters +succeeded in bagging a dozen or more quails. Late that evening, +when my cook brought the delicious little birds, beautifully spitted +and broiled on peeled willow twigs, into my tent, I passed one to +Uncle John. Much to the surprise of every one, he refused. He said, +"Boys, I don't eat no quail!" + +We looked at him in astonishment; for he was somewhat of a gourmand, +and prided himself upon the "faculty," as he termed it, of being able +to eat anything, from a piece of jerked buffalo-hide to the juiciest +young antelope steak. + +I remonstrated with the venerable guide; said to him, "You are making +a terrible mistake, Uncle John. Tomorrow I expect to leave here, and +as we are going directly away from the buffalo country, we don't know +when we shall strike fresh meat again. You'd better try one," and +I again proffered one of the birds. + +"Boys," said he again, "I don't tech quail; I hain't eat one for +more than twenty years. One of the little cusses saved my life once, +and I swore right thar and then that I would starve first; and I have +kept my oath, though I've seen the time mighty often sence I could +a killed 'em with my quirt, when all I had to chaw on for four days +was the soles of a greasy pair of old moccasins. + +"Well, boys, it's a good many years ago--in June, if I don't disremember, +1847. We was a coming in from way up in Cache le Poudre and from +Yellowstone Lake, whar we'd been a trapping for two seasons. We was +a working our way slowly back to Independence, Missouri, where we was +a going to get a new outfit. Let's see, there was me, and a man by +the name of Boyd, and Lew Thorp--Lew was a working for Colonel Boone +at the time--and two more men, whose names I disremember now, and a +nigger wench we had for a cook. We had mighty good luck, and had +a big pile of skins; and the Indians never troubled us till we got +down on Pawnee Bottom, this side of Pawnee Rock. We all of us had +mighty good ponies, but Thorp had a team and wagon, which he was +driving for Colonel Boone. + +"We had went into camp on Pawnee Bottom airly in the afternoon, and +I told the boys to look out for Ingins--for I knowed ef we was to have +any trouble with them it would be somewhere in that vicinity. But we +didn't see a darned redskin that night, nor the sign of one. + +"The wolves howled considerable, and come pretty close to the fire +for the bacon rinds we'd throwed away after supper. + +"You see the buffalo was scurse right thar then--it was the wrong +time o' year. They generally don't get down on to the Arkansas +till about September, and when they're scurse the wolves and coyotes +are mighty sassy, and will steal a piece of bacon rind right out of +the pan, if you don't watch 'em. So we picketed our ponies a little +closer before we turned in, and we all went to sleep except one, +who sort o' kept watch on the stock. + +"I was out o' my blankets mighty airly next morning, for I was kind +o' suspicious. I could always tell when Ingins was prowling around, +and I had a sort of present'ment something was going to happen +--I didn't like the way the coyotes kept yelling--so I rested kind o' +oneasy like, and was out among the ponies by the first streak o' +daylight. + +"About the time I could see things, I discovered three or four +buffalo grazing off on the creek bottom, about a half-mile away, +and I started for my rifle, thinking I would examine her. + +"Pretty soon I seed Thorp and Boyd crawl out o' their blankets, too, +and I called their attention to the buffalo, which was still feeding +undisturbed. + +"We'd been kind o' scurse of fresh meat for a couple of weeks--ever +since we left the Platte--except a jack-rabbit or cottontail, and I +knowed the boys would be wanting to get a quarter or two of a good +fat cow, if we could find one in the herd, so that was the reason +I pointed 'em out to 'em. + +"The dew, you see, was mighty heavy, and the grass in the bottom +was as wet as if it had been raining for a month, and I didn't care +to go down whar the buffalo was just then--I knowed we had plenty +of time, and as soon as the sun was up it would dry right off. So I +got on to one of the ponies and led the others down to the spring +near camp to water them while the wench was a getting breakfast, and +some o' the rest o' the outfit was a fixing the saddles and greasing +the wagon. + +"Just as I was coming back--it had growed quite light then--I seed Boyd +and Thorp start out from camp with their rifles and make for the +buffalo; so I picketed the ponies, gets my rifle, and starts off too. + +"By the time I'd reached the edge of the bottom, Thorp and Boyd was +a crawling up on to a young bull way off to the right, and I lit out +for a fat cow I seen bunched up with the rest of the herd on the left. + +"The grass was mighty tall on some parts of the Arkansas bottom in them +days, and I got within easy shooting range without the herd seeing me. + +"The buffalo was now between me and Thorp and Boyd, and they was +furtherest from camp. I could see them over the top of the grass +kind o' edging up to the bull, and I kept a crawling on my hands and +knees toward the cow, and when I got about a hundred and fifty yards +of her, I pulled up my rifle and drawed a bead. + +"Just as I was running my eyes along the bar'l, a darned little quail +flew right out from under my feet and lit exactly on my front sight +and of course cut off my aim--we didn't shoot reckless in those days; +every shot had to tell, or a man was the laughing-stock for a month +if he missed his game. + +"I shook the little critter off and brought up my rifle again when, +durn my skin, if the bird didn't light right on to the same place; +at the same time my eyes grow'd kind o' hazy-like and in a minute +I didn't know nothing. + +"When I come to, the quail was gone, I heerd a couple of rifle shots, +and right in front of where the bull had stood and close to Thorp and +Boyd, half a dozen Ingins jumped up out o' the tall grass and, firing +into the two men, killed Thorp instantly and wounded Boyd. + +"He and me got to camp--keeping off the Ingins, who knowed I was loaded-- +when we, with the rest of the outfit, drove the red devils away. + +"They was Apaches, and the fellow that shot Thorp was a half-breed +nigger and Apache. He scalped Thorp and carred off the whole upper +part of his skull with it. He got Thorp's rifle and bullet-pouch too, +and his knife. + +"We buried Thorp in the bottom there, and some of the party cut their +names on the stones that they covered his body up with, to keep the +coyotes from eating up his bones. + +"Boyd got on to the river with us all right, and I never heerd of him +after we separated at Booneville. We pulled out soon after the +Indians left, but we didn't get no buffalo-meat. + +"You see, boys, if I'd a fired into that cow, the devils would a +had me before I could a got a patch on my ball--didn't have no +breech-loaders in them days, and it took as much judgment to know +how to load a rifle properly as it did to shoot it. + +"Them Ingins knowed all that--they knowed I hadn't fired, so they +kept a respectable distance. I would a fired, but the quail saved +my life by interfering with my sight--and that's the reason I don't +eat no quail. I hain't superstitious, but I don't believe they was +meant to be eat." + +Uncle John stuck to his text, I believe, until he died, and you +could never disabuse his mind of the idea that the quail lighting +on his rifle was not a special interposition of Providence. + +Only four years after he told his story, in 1872, one of the newly +established settlers, living a few miles west of Larned on Pawnee +Bottom, having observed in one of his fields a singular depression, +resembling an old grave, determined to dig down and see if there was +any special cause for the strange indentation on his land. + +A couple of feet below the surface he discovered several flat pieces +of stone, on one of which the words "Washington" and "J. Hildreth" +were rudely cut, also a line separating them, and underneath: +"December tenth" and "J. M., 1850." On another was carved the name +"J. H. Shell," with other characters that could not be deciphered. +On a third stone were the initials "H. R., 1847"; underneath which +was plainly cut "J. R. Boyd," and still beneath "J. R. Pring." +At the very bottom of the excavation were found the lower portion +of the skull, one or two ribs, and one of the bones of the leg of +a human being. The piece of skull was found near the centre of the +grave, for such it certainly was. + +At the time of the discovery I was in Larned, and I immediately +consulted my book of notes and memoranda taken hurriedly at intervals +on the plains and in the mountains, during more than half my lifetime, +to see if I could find anything that would solve the mystery attached +to the quiet prairie-grave and its contents, and I then recalled +Uncle John Smith's story of the quail as related to me at my camp. +I also met Colonel A. G. Boone that winter in Washington; he remembered +the circumstances well. Thorp was working for him, as Smith had +said, and was killed by an Apache, who, in scalping him, tore the +half of his head away, and it was thus found mutilated, so +many years afterward. + +Uncle John was in one of his garrulous moods that night, and as we +were not by any means tired of hearing the veteran trapper talk, +without much urging he told us the following tale:-- + +"Well, boys, thirty years ago, beaver, mink, and otter was found in +abundacious quantities on all the streams in the Rocky Mountains. +The trade in them furs was a paying business, for the little army +of us fellows called trappers. They ain't any of 'em left now, +no mor'n the animals we used to hunt. We had to move about from +place to place, just as if we was so many Ingins. Sometimes we'd +construct little cabins in the timber, or a dugout where the game +was plenty, where we'd stay maybe for a month or two, and once in +a while--though not often--a whole year. + +"The Ingins was our mortal enemies; they'd get a scalp from our +fellows occasionally, but for every one they had of ours we had +a dozen of theirs. + +"In the summer of 1846, there was a little half dugout, half cabin, +opposite the mouth of Frenchman's Creek, put up by Bill Thorpe, +Al Boyd, and Rube Stevens. Bill and Al was men grown, and know'd +more 'bout the prairies and timber than the Ingins themselves. +They'd hired out to the Northwest Fur Company when they was mere kids, +and kept on trapping ever since. Rube--'Little Rube' as all the +old men called him--was 'bout nineteen, and plumb dumb; he could hear +well enough though, for he wasn't born that way. When he was seventeen +his father moved from his farm in Pennsylvany, to take up a claim +in Oregon, and the whole family was compelled to cross the plains +to get there; for there wasn't no other way. While they was camped +in the Bitter-Root valley one evening, just 'bout sundown, a party +of Blackfeet surprised the outfit, and massacred all of them but Rube. +They carried him off, kept him as a slave, and, to make sure of him, +cut out his tongue at the roots. But some of the women who wasn't +quite so devilish as their husbands, and who took pity on him, went +to work and cured him of his awful wound. He was used mighty mean +by the bucks of the tribe, and made up his mind to get away from them +or kill himself; for he could not live under their harsh treatment. +After he'd been with them for mor'n a year, the tribe had a terrible +battle with the Sioux, and in the scrimmage Rube stole a pony and +lit out. He rode on night and day until he came across the cabin +of the two trappers I have told you 'bout, and they, of course, +took the poor boy in and cared for him. + +"Rube was a splendid shot with the rifle, and he swore to himself +that he would never leave the prairies and do nothing for the rest +of his life but kill Ingins, who had made him a homeless orphan, +and so mutilated him. + +"After Rube had been with Boyd and Thorpe a year, they was all one +day in the winter examining their traps which was scattered 'long +the stream for miles. After re-baiting them, they concluded to hunt +for meat, which was getting scarce at the cabin; they let Rube go +down to the creek where it widened out lake-like, to fish through +a hole in the ice, and Al and Bill took their rifles and hunted in +the timber for deer. They all got separated of course, Rube being +furtherest away, while Al and Bill did not wander so far from each +other that they could not be heard if one wanted his companion. + +"Al shot a fat black-tail deer, and just as he was going to stoop +down to cut its throat, Bill yelled out to him:-- + +"'Drop everything Al, for God's sake, and let's make for the dugout; +they're coming, a whole band of Sioux!' + +"'If we can get to the cabin,' replied Al, 'we can keep off the whole +nation. I wonder where Rube is? I hope he'll get here and save +his scalp.' + +"At this instant, poor Rube dashed up to them, an Ingin close upon +his tracks; he had unfortunately forgotten to take his rifle with +him when he went to the creek, and now he was at the mercy of the +savage; at least both he and his pursuer so thought. But before +the Ingin had fairly uttered his yell of exultation, Al who with +Bill had held his rifle in readiness for an emergency, lifted the +red devil off his feet, and he fell dead without ever knowing what +had struck him. + +"Rube, thus delivered from a sudden death, ran at the top of his +speed with his two friends for the cabin, for, if they could reach it, +they did not fear a hundred paint-bedaubed savages. + +"Luckily they arrived in time. Where they lived was part dugout and +part cabin. It was about ten feet high, and right back of it was +a big ledge of rock, which made it impossible for any one to get +into it from that side. The place had no door; they did not dare +to put one there when it was built, for they were likely to be +surprised at any moment by a prowling band, so the only entrance was +a square hole in the roof, through which one at a time had to crawl +to enter. + +"The boys got inside all right just as the Ingins came a yelling up. +Bill looked out of a hole in the wall and counted thirty of the +devils, and said at once: 'Off with your coats; don't let them have +anything to catch hold of but our naked bodies if they get in, and +we can handle ourselves better.' + +"'Thirty to three,' said Al. 'Whew! this ain't going to be any +boy's play; we've got to fight for all there is in it, and the +chances are mightily agin us.' + +"Rube he took an axe, and stood right under the hole in the roof, +so that if any of the devils got in he could brain them. In a minute +five rifles cracked; for the Ingins was pretty well armed for them +times, and their bullets rattled agin the logs like hail agin a tent. +Some of 'em was on top the roof by this time, and soon the leader of +the party, a big painted devil, thrust his ugly face into the hole; +but he had hardly got a good look before Bill dropped him by a +well-directed shot and he tumbled in on the floor. + +"'You darned fool,' said Bill, as he saw the effect of his shot; +'did you think we was asleep?' + +"There was one opening that served for air, and a savage, seeing +the boys had forgotten to barricade it, tried to push himself +through, an' not succeeding, tried to back out, but at that instant +Bill caught him by the wrist--Bill was a powerful man--and picking up +a beaver-trap that laid on the floor, actually beat his brains +out with it. + +"While this circus was going on inside, three more of the Ingins got +on the roof and wrenched off a couple of the logs that covered it; +but in a minute they came tumbling down and lay dead on the floor. + +"'That leaves only twenty-five, don't it?' inquired Al, as he mopped +his face with his shirt-sleeve. + +"'Howl, you red devils,' said Bill, as the Ingins commenced their +awful yelling when they saw their comrades fall into the room. +'Don't you know, you blame fools, you've fell in with experienced +hands at the shooting business?' + +"Spat! Something hit Al, and he was the first wounded, but it was +only a scratch, and he kept right on attending to business. + +"'By gosh! look at Rube, will you?' said Al. The dumb boy had in +his grasp the very chief of the band, who had just then discovered +the hole in the roof made by the three Ingins who had passed in +their checks for their impudence, and was trying his best to push +himself down. Rube had made a strike at him with an axe, but the +edge was turned aside, and the savage was getting the better of +the boy; he had grappled Rube by the hair and one arm, and they was +flying 'round like a wild cat and a hound. Bill tried three times +to sink his knife into the old chief, but there was such a cavortin' +in the wrastle between him and the boy, he was afraid to try any more, +for fear it might hit Rube instead. Suddenly the Ingin fell to the +floor as dead as a trapped beaver what's been drowned; Rube had +struck his buckhorn-handled hunting-knife right into the heart of +the brute. + +"'Set him agin the hole in the side of the building,' said Bill; +'he ain't fit for nothing else than to stop a gap'; so Rube set him +agin the hole, and pinned him there with half a dozen knives what +was lying round loose. + +"Just as they had fastened the dead body of the old chief to the +side of the cabin, a perfect shower of bullets came rattling round +like a hailstorm. 'All right, let's have your waste lead,' said Bill. + +"'A few more of these dead Ingins and we can make a regular fort of +this old cabin; we want two for that chunk,' said Al, as he pointed +with his rifle to a large gap on the west side of the wall; but +before he had fairly got the words out of his mouth, two of the +attacking party jumped down into the room. Al, being a regular giant, +as soon as they landed, surprised them by seizing one with each hand +by the throat, and he actually held them at arm's-length till he had +squeezed the very life out of them, and they both fell corpses. + +"While Al was performing his two-Ingin act, a great light burst into +the cabin, and by the time he had choked his enemies to death, he saw, +while the Ingins outside gave a terrible yell of exultation, that +they had fired the place. + +"'Damn 'em,' shouted Bill, as he pitched the corpse of the chief +from the gap where Rube had set him. 'Fellows, we've got to get +out of here right quick; follow me, boys!' + +"Holding their rifles in hand, and clutching a hunting-knife also, +they stepped out into the brush surrounding the place, and started +on a run for the heavy timber on the bank of the creek. + +"They had reckoned onluckily; a wild war-whoop greeted the flying men +as they reached the edge of the forest, and without being able to use +their arms, they were taken prisoners. Bill and Al, fastened with +their backs against each other, and Little Rube by himself, were +bound to separate trees, but not so far apart that they could not +speak to each other, and some of the Ingins began to gather sticks +and pile them around the trees. + +"'What are they going to do with us?' anxiously inquired Bill of Al. + +"'Roast us, you bet,' replied the other. 'They'll find me tough +enough, anyhow.' + +"'It must be a painful death,' soliloquized Bill. + +"'Well, it isn't the most pleasant one, you can gamble on that,' +said Al, turning his looks toward Bill; 'but see what the devils +are doing to poor Rube.' + +"Bill cast his eyes in the direction of the dumb boy, who was fastened +to a small pine, about a hundred feet distant. Standing directly +in front of it was a gigantic Ingin, flourishing his scalping-knife +within an inch of Rube's head, trying to make the boy flinch. +But the young fellow merely scowled at him in a rage, his muscles +never quivering for an instant. + +"While the men were trying to console each other, two of the savages, +who had gone away for a short time, returned, bearing the carcass +of the deer that Al had killed in the morning, and commenced to cut +it up. They had made several small fires, and roasting the meat +before them, began to gorge themselves, Indian fashion, with the +savoury morsels. The men were awfully hungry, too, but not a mouthful +did they get of their own game. + +"The Ingins were more'n an hour feasting, while their prisoners kept +a looking for some help to get 'em out of the scrape they was in. + +"'Bout a mile down the creek, me and six other trappers had a camp, +and that morning, being scarce of meat, we all went a hunting. +We had killed two or three elk and was 'bout going back to camp with +our game, when we heard firing, and supposed it was a party of hunters, +like ourselves, so we did not pay any attention to it at first; but +when it kept up so long, and there was such a constant volley, I told +our boys it might be a scrimmage with a party of red devils, and we +concluded to go and see. + +"We left our elk where they were, and started in the direction of +the shooting, taking mighty good care not to be surprised ourselves. +We crept carefully on, and a little before sundown seen a camp-fire +burning in the timber quite a smart piece ahead of us. We stopped +then, and Ike Pettet and myself crept on cautiously on our hands and +knees through the brush to learn what the fire meant. In a little +while we seen it was an Ingin camp, and we counted twenty-two +warriors seated 'round their fires a eating as unconcernedly as if +we warn't nowhere near 'em. We didn't feel like tackling so many, +so just as we was 'bout to crawl away and leave 'em in ondisturbed +possession of their camp, we heard some parties talking in English. +Then we pricked up our ears and listened mighty interested I tell you. +Looking 'round, we seen the men tied to the trees and the wood piled +against 'em, and then we knowed what was up. We had to be mighty +wary, for if we snapped a twig even, it was all day with us and +the prisoners too; so we dragged ourselves back, and after getting +out of sound of the Ingins, we just got up and lit out mighty lively +for the place we'd left our companions. We met them coming slowly +on 'bout two miles from the Ingin camp, and telling 'em what was up +we started to help the trappers what the devils was agoing to burn. +We wasn't half so long in getting at the camp as Ike and me was +in going, and we soon come within good range for our rifles. + +"The Ingins was still unsuspicious, and we spread ourselves in a +sort of half circle so as to kind o' surround them, and at a signal +I give, seven rifles cracked at once, and as many of the Injins was +dropped right in their tracks; a second volley, for the red devils +had not got their senses yet, tumbled seven more corpses upon the +pile, and then we white men jumped in with our knives and clubbed +rifles, and there was a lively scrimmage for a few minutes. The few +Ingins what wasn't killed fought like devils, but as we was getting +the best of 'em every second they turned tail and ran. + +"We'd heard the firing of the fight at the cabin just in time; and +as we cut the rawhide strings that bound the fellows to the trees, +Ike, who was a right fine shot and had killed three at one time, +said: 'I always like to get two or three of the red devils in a line +before I pull the trigger; it saves lead.' + +"Then we all went back to our camp and made a night of it, feasting +on the elk we had killed, and talking over the wonderful escape of +the boys and Little Rube." + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. +KIT CARSON. + + + +Of the famous men whose lives are so interwoven with the history +of the Old Santa Fe Trail that the story of the great highway is +largely made up of their individual exploits and acts of bravery, +it has been my fortune to have known nearly all intimately, during +more than a third of a century passed on the great plains and in +the Rocky Mountains. + +First of all, Christopher, or Kit, Carson, as he is familiarly known +to the world, stands at the head and front of celebrated frontiersmen, +trappers, scouts, guides, and Indian fighters. + +I knew him well through a series of years, to the date of his death +in 1868, but I shall confine myself to the events of his remarkable +career along the line of the Trail and its immediate environs. +In 1826 a party of Santa Fe traders passing near his father's home +in Howard County, Missouri, young Kit, who was then but seventeen +years old, joined the caravan as hunter. He was already an expert +with the rifle, and thus commenced his life of adventure on the +great plains and in the Rocky Mountains. + +His first exhibition of that nerve and coolness in the presence of +danger which marked his whole life was in this initial trip across +the plains. When the caravan had arrived at the Arkansas River, +somewhere in the vicinity of the great bend of that stream, one of +the teamsters, while carelessly pulling his rifle toward him by the +barrel, discharged the weapon and received the ball in his arm, +completely crushing the bones. The blood from the wound flowed so +copiously that he nearly lost his life before it could be arrested. +He was fixed up, however, and the caravan proceeded on its journey, +the man thinking no more seriously of his injured arm. In a few days, +however, the wound began to indicate that gangrene had set in, and +it was determined that only by an amputation was it possible for him +to live beyond a few days. Every one of the older men of the caravan +positively declined to attempt the operation, as there were no +instruments of any kind. At this juncture Kit, realizing the extreme +necessity of prompt action, stepped forward and offered to do the job. +He told the unfortunate sufferer that he had had no experience in +such matters, but that as no one else would do it, he would take +the chances. All the tools that Kit could find were a razor, a saw, +and the king-bolt of a wagon. He cut the flesh with the razor, +sawed through the bone as if it had been a piece of joist, and seared +the horrible wound with the king-bolt, which he had heated to a +white glow, for the purpose of stopping the flow of blood that +naturally followed such rude surgery. The operation was a complete +success; the man lived many years afterward, and was with his surgeon +in many an expedition. + +In the early days of the commerce of the prairies, Carson was the +hunter at Bent's Fort for a period of eight years. There were about +forty men employed at the place; and when the game was found in +abundance in the mountains, it was a relatively easy task and just +suited to his love of sport, but when it grew scarce, as it often +did, his prowess was tasked to its utmost to keep the forty mouths +from crying for food. He became such an unerring shot with the +rifle during that time that he was called the "Nestor of the Rocky +Mountains." His favourite game was the buffalo, although he killed +countless numbers of other animals. + +All of the plains tribes of Indians, as did the powerful Utes of +the mountains, knew him well; for he had often visited in their +camps, sat in their lodges, smoked the pipe, and played with their +little boys. The latter fact may not appear of much consequence, +but there are no people on earth who have a greater love for their +boy children than the savages of America. The Indians all feared +him, too, at the same time that they respected his excellent judgment, +and frequently were governed by his wise counsel. The following +story will show his power in this direction. The Sioux, one of the +most numerous and warlike tribes at that time, had encroached upon +the hunting-grounds of the southern Indians, and the latter had many +a skirmish with them on the banks of the Arkansas along the line of +the Trail. Carson, who was in the upper valley of the river, was +sent for to come down and help them drive the obnoxious Sioux back +to their own stamping-ground. He left Fort Bent, and went with the +party of Comanche messengers to the main camp of that tribe and the +Arapahoes, with whom they had united. Upon his arrival, he was told +that the Sioux had a thousand warriors and many rifles, and the +Comanches and Arapahoes were afraid of them on account of the great +disparity of numbers, but that if he would go with them on the +war-path, they felt assured they could overcome their enemies. +Carson, however, instead of encouraging the Comanches and Arapahoes +to fight, induced them to negotiate with the Sioux. He was sent +as mediator, and so successfully accomplished his mission that the +intruding tribe consented to leave the hunting-grounds of the +Comanches as soon as the buffalo season was over; which they did, +and there was no more trouble. + +After many adventures in California with Fremont, Carson, with his +inseparable friend, L. B. Maxwell, embarked in the wool-raising +industry. Shortly after they had established themselves on their +ranch, the Apaches made one of their frequent murdering and plundering +raids through Northern New Mexico, killing defenceless women and +children, running off stock of all kinds, and laying waste every +little ranch they came across in their wild foray. Not very far +from the city of Santa Fe, they ruthlessly butchered a Mr. White +and his son, though three of their number were slain by the brave +gentlemen before they were overpowered. Other of the blood-thirsty +savages carried away the women and children of the desolated home +and took them to their mountain retreat in the vicinity of Las Vegas. +Mr. White was a highly respected merchant, and news of this outrage +spreading rapidly through the settlements, it was determined that +the savages should not go without punishment this time, at least. +Carson's reputation as an Indian fighter was at its height, so the +natives of the country sent for him, and declined to move until +he came. For some unexplained reason, after he arrived at Las Vegas, +he was not placed in charge of the posse, that position having +already been given to a Frenchman. Carson, as was usual with him, +never murmured because he was assigned to a subordinate position, +but took his place, ready to do his part in whatever capacity. + +The party set out for the stronghold of the savages, and rode night +and day on the trail of the murderers, hoping to surprise them and +recapture the women and children; but so much time had been wasted +in delays, that Carson feared they would only find the mutilated +bodies of the poor captives. In a few days after leaving Las Vegas, +the retreat of the savages was discovered in the fastness of the +mountains, where they had fortified themselves in such a manner that +they could resist ten times the number of their pursuers. Carson, +as soon as he saw them, without a second's hesitation, and giving +a characteristic yell, dashed in, expecting, of course, that the men +would follow him; but they only stood in gaping wonderment at his +bravery, not daring to venture after him. He did not discover his +dilemma until he had advanced so far alone that escape seemed +impossible. But here his coolness, which always served him in the +moment of supreme danger, saved his scalp. As the savages turned +on him, he threw himself on the off side of his horse, Indian fashion, +for he was as expert in a trick of that kind as the savages themselves, +and rode back to the little command. He had six arrows in his horse +and a bullet through his coat! + +The Indians in those days were poorly armed, and did not long +follow up the pursuit after Carson; for, observing the squad of +mounted Mexicans, they retreated to the top of a rocky prominence, +from which point they could watch every movement of the whites. +Carson was raging at the apathy, not to say cowardice, of the men +who had sent for him to join them, but he kept his counsel to himself; +for he was anxious to save the captured women and children. He talked +to the men very earnestly, however, exhorting them not to flinch +in the duty they had come so far to perform, and for which he had +come at their call. This had the desired effect; for he induced +them to make a charge, which was gallantly performed, and in such +a brave manner that the Indians fled, scarcely making an effort to +defend themselves. Five of their number were killed at the furious +onset of the Mexicans, but unfortunately, as he anticipated, only +the murdered corpses of the women and children were the result of +the victory. + +President Polk appointed Carson to a second lieutenancy,[48] and his +first official duty was conducting fifty soldiers under his command +through the country of the Comanches, who were then at war with the +whites. A fight occurred at a place known as Point of Rocks,[49] +where on arriving, Carson found a company of volunteers for the +Mexican War, and camped near them. About dawn the next morning, +all the animals of the volunteers were captured by a band of Indians, +while the herders were conducting them to the river-bottom to graze. +The herders had no weapons, and luckily, in the confusion attending +the bold theft, ran into Carson's camp; and as he, with his men, +were ready with their rifles, they recaptured the oxen, but the +horses were successfully driven off by their captors. + +Several of the savages were mortally wounded by Carson's prompt +charge, as signs after they had cleared out proved; but the Indian +custom of tying the wounded on their ponies precluded the chance of +taking any scalps. The wily Comanche, like the Arab of the desert, +is generally successful in his sudden assaults, but Carson, who was +never surprised, was always equal to his tactics. + +One of the two soldiers whose turn it had been to stand guard that +morning was discovered to have been asleep when the alarm of Indians +was given, and Carson at once administered the Indian method of +punishment, making the man wear the dress of a squaw for that day. +Then going on, he arrived at Santa Fe, where he turned over his +little command. + +While there, he heard that a gang of those desperadoes so frequently +the nuisance of a new country had formed a conspiracy to murder and +rob two wealthy citizens whom they had volunteered to accompany over +the Trail to the States. The caravan was already many miles on its +way when Carson was informed of the plot. In less than an hour he +had hired sixteen picked men and was on his march to intercept them. +He took a short cut across the mountains, taking especial care to +keep out of the way of the Indians, who were on the war-path, but +as to whose movements he was always posted. In two days he came +upon a camp of United States recruits, en route to the military +posts in New Mexico, whose commander offered to accompany him with +twenty men. Carson accepted the generous proposal, by forced marches +soon overtook the caravan of traders, and at once placed one Fox, +the leader of the gang, in irons, after which he informed the owners +of the caravan of the escape they had made from the wretches whom +they were treating so kindly. At first the gentlemen were astounded +at the disclosures made to them, but soon admitted that they had +noticed many things which convinced them that the plot really existed, +and but for the opportune arrival of the brave frontiersman it would +shortly have been carried out. + +The members of the caravan who were perfectly trustworthy were then +ordered to corral the rest of the conspirators, thirty-five in number, +and they were driven out of camp, with the exception of Fox, the +leader, whom Carson conveyed to Taos. He was imprisoned for several +months, but as a crime in intent only could be proved against him, +and as the adobe walls of the house where he was confined were not +secure enough to retain a man who desired to release himself, he was +finally liberated, and cleared out. + +The traders were profuse in their thanks to Carson for his timely +interference, but he refused every offer of remuneration. On their +return to Santa Fe from St. Louis, however, they presented him with +a magnificent pair of pistols, upon whose silver mounting was an +inscription commemorating his brave deed and the gratitude of the +donors. + +The following summer was spent in a visit to St. Louis, and early +in the fall he returned over the Trail, arriving at the Cheyenne +village on the Upper Arkansas without meeting with any incident +worthy of note. On reaching that point, he learned that the Indians +had received a terrible affront from an officer commanding a detachment +of United States troops, who had whipped one of their chiefs; and +that consequently the whole tribe was enraged, and burning for revenge +upon the whites. Carson was the first white man to approach the +place since the insult, and so many years had elapsed since he was +the hunter at Bent's Fort, and so grievously had the Indians been +offended, that his name no longer guaranteed safety to the party +with whom he was travelling, nor even insured respect to himself, +in the state of excitement existing in the village. Carson, however, +deliberately pushed himself into the presence of a war council which +was just then in session to consider the question of attacking the +caravan, giving orders to his men to keep close together, and guard +against a surprise. + +The savages, supposing that he could not understand their language, +talked without restraint, and unfolded their plans to capture his +party and kill them all, particularly the leader. After they had +reached this decision, Carson coolly rose and addressed the council +in the Cheyenne language, informing the Indians who he was, of his +former associations with and kindness to their tribe, and that now +he was ready to render them any assistance they might require; but +as to their taking his scalp, he claimed the right to say a word. + +The Indians departed, and Carson went on his way; but there were +hundreds of savages in sight on the sand hills, and, though they +made no attack, he was well aware that he was in their power, nor +had they abandoned the idea of capturing his train. His coolness +and deliberation kept his men in spirit, and yet out of the whole +fifteen, which was the total number of his force, there were only two +or three on whom he could place any reliance in case of an emergency. + +When the train camped for the night, the wagons were corralled, and +the men and mules all brought inside the circle. Grass was cut with +sheath-knives and fed to the animals, instead of their being picketed +out as usual, and as large a guard as possible detailed. When the +camp had settled down to perfect quiet, Carson crawled outside it, +taking with him a Mexican boy, and after explaining to him the danger +which threatened them all, told him that it was in his power to save +the lives of the company. Then he sent him on alone to Rayedo, +a journey of nearly three hundred miles, to ask for an escort of +United States troops to be sent out to meet the train, impressing +upon the brave little Mexican the importance of putting a good many +miles between himself and the camp before morning. And so he started +him, with a few rations of food, without letting the rest of his +party know that such measures were necessary. The boy had been in +Carson's service for some time, and was known to him as a faithful +and active messenger, and in a wild country like New Mexico, with +the outdoor life and habits of its people, such a journey was not +an unusual occurrence. + +Carson now returned to the camp, to watch all night himself, and +at daybreak all were on the Trail again. No Indians made their +appearance until nearly noon, when five warriors came galloping up +toward the train. As soon as they came close enough to hear his +voice, Carson ordered them to halt, and going up to them, told how +he had sent a messenger to Rayedo the night before to inform the +troops that their tribe were annoying him, and that if he or his men +were molested, terrible punishment would be inflicted by those who +would surely come to his relief. The savages replied that they +would look for the moccasin tracks, which they undoubtedly found, +and the whole village passed away toward the hills after a little +while, evidently seeking a place of safety from an expected attack +by the troops. + +The young Mexican overtook the detachment of soldiers whose officer +had caused all the trouble with the Indians, to whom he told his +story; but failing to secure any sympathy, he continued his journey +to Rayedo, and procured from the garrison of that place immediate +assistance. Major Grier, commanding the post, at once despatched +a troop of his regiment, which, by forced marches, met Carson +twenty-five miles below Bent's Fort, and though it encountered no +Indians, the rapid movement had a good effect upon the savages, +impressing them with the power and promptness of the government. + +Early in the spring of 1865, Carson was ordered, with three companies, +to put a stop to the depredations of marauding bands of Cheyennes, +Kiowas, and Comanches upon the caravans and emigrant outfits travelling +the Santa Fe Trail. He left Fort Union with his command and marched +over the Dry or Cimarron route to the Arkansas River, for the purpose +of establishing a fortified camp at Cedar Bluffs, or Cold Spring, +to afford a refuge for the freight trains on that dangerous part of +the Trail. The Indians had for some time been harassing not only +the caravans of the citizen traders, but also those of the government, +which carried supplies to the several military posts in the Territory +of New Mexico. An expedition was therefore planned by Carson to +punish them, and he soon found an opportunity to strike a blow near +the adobe fort on the Canadian River. His force consisted of the +First Regiment of New Mexican Volunteer Cavalry and seventy-five +friendly Indians, his entire command numbering fourteen commissioned +officers and three hundred and ninety-six enlisted men. With these +he attacked the Kiowa village, consisting of about one hundred and +fifty lodges. The fight was a very severe one, and lasted from +half-past eight in the morning until after sundown. The savages, +with more than ordinary intrepidity and boldness, made repeated +stands against the fierce onslaughts of Carson's cavalrymen, but +were at last forced to give way, and were cut down as they stubbornly +retreated, suffering a loss of sixty killed and wounded. In this +battle only two privates and one noncommissioned officer were killed, +and one non-commissioned officer and thirteen privates, four of whom +were friendly Indians, wounded. The command destroyed one hundred +and fifty lodges, a large amount of dried meats, berries, buffalo-robes, +cooking utensils, and also a buggy and spring-wagon, the property +of Sierrito,[50] the Kiowa chief. + +In his official account of the fight, Carson states that he found +ammunition in the village, which had been furnished, no doubt, by +unscrupulous Mexican traders. + +He told me that he never was deceived by Indian tactics but once +in his life. He said that he was hunting with six others after +buffalo, in the summer of 1835; that they had been successful, and +came into their little bivouac one night very tired, intending to +start for the rendezvous at Bent's Fort the next morning. They had +a number of dogs, among them some excellent animals. These barked +a good deal, and seemed restless, and the men heard wolves. + +"I saw," said Kit, "two big wolves sneaking about, one of them quite +close to us. Gordon, one of my men, wanted to fire his rifle at it, +but I did not let him, for fear he would hit a dog. I admit that +I had a sort of an idea that those wolves might be Indians; but when +I noticed one of them turn short around, and heard the clashing of +his teeth as he rushed at one of the dogs, I felt easy then, and was +certain that they were wolves sure enough. But the red devil fooled +me, after all, for he had two dried buffalo bones in his hands under +the wolfskin, and he rattled them together every time he turned to +make a dash at the dogs! Well, by and by we all dozed off, and it +wasn't long before I was suddenly aroused by a noise and a big blaze. +I rushed out the first thing for our mules, and held them. If the +savages had been at all smart, they could have killed us in a trice, +but they ran as soon as they fired at us. They killed one of my men, +putting five bullets in his body and eight in his buffalo-robe. +The Indians were a band of Sioux on the war-trail after a band of +Snakes, and found us by sheer accident. They endeavoured to ambush +us the next morning, but we got wind of their little game and killed +three of them, including the chief." + +Carson's nature was made up of some very noble attributes. He was +brave, but not reckless like Custer; a veritable exponent of Christian +altruism, and as true to his friends as the needle to the pole. +Under the average stature, and rather delicate-looking in his physical +proportions, he was nevertheless a quick, wiry man, with nerves of +steel, and possessing an indomitable will. He was full of caution, +but showed a coolness in the moment of supreme danger that was good +to witness. + +During a short visit at Fort Lyon, Colorado, where a favourite son +of his was living, early in the morning of May 23, 1868, while +mounting his horse in front of his quarters (he was still fond of +riding), an artery in his neck was suddenly ruptured, from the effects +of which, notwithstanding the medical assistance rendered by the +fort surgeons, he died in a few moments. + +His remains, after reposing for some time at Fort Lyon, were taken +to Taos, so long his home in New Mexico, where an appropriate monument +was erected over them. In the Plaza at Santa Fe, his name also +appears cut on a cenotaph raised to commemorate the services of the +soldiers of the Territory. As an Indian fighter he was matchless. +The identical rifle used by him for more than thirty-five years, +and which never failed him, he bequeathed, just before his death, +to Montezuma Lodge, A. F. & A. M., Santa Fe, of which he was a member. + +James Bridger, "Major Bridger," or "Old Jim Bridger," as we was called, +another of the famous coterie of pioneer frontiersmen, was born in +Washington, District of Columbia, in 1807. When very young, a mere +boy in fact, he joined the great trapping expedition under the +leadership of James Ashley, and with it travelled to the far West, +remote from the extreme limit of border civilization, where he became +the compeer and comrade of Carson, and certainly the foremost +mountaineer, strictly speaking, the United States has produced. + +Having left behind him all possibilities of education at such an +early age, he was illiterate in his speech and as ignorant of the +conventionalities of polite society as an Indian; but he possessed +a heart overflowing with the milk of human kindness, was generous +in the extreme, and honest and true as daylight. + +He was especially distinguished for the discovery of a defile through +the intricate mazes of the Rocky Mountains, which bears his name, +Bridger's Pass. He rendered important services as guide and scout +during the early preliminary surveys for a transcontinental railroad, +and for a series of years was in the employ of the government, +in the old regular army on the great plains and in the mountains, +long before the breaking out of the Civil War. To Bridger also +belongs the honour of having seen, first of all white men, the Great +Salt Lake of Utah, in the winter of 1824-25. + +After a series of adventures, hairbreadth escapes, and terrible +encounters with the Indians, in 1856 he purchased a farm near Westport, +Missouri; but soon left it in his hunger for the mountains, to return +to it only when worn-out and blind, to be buried there without even +the rudest tablet to mark the spot. + +"I would rather sleep in the southern corner of a little country +churchyard, than in the tomb of the Capulets." This quotation came +to my mind one Sunday morning two or three years ago, as I mused +over Bridger's neglected grave among the low hills beyond the quaint +old town of Westport. I thought I knew, as I stood there, that he +whose bones were mouldering beneath the blossoming clover at my feet, +would have wished for his last couch a more perfect solitude and +isolation from the wearisome world's busy sound than even the +immortal Burke. + +The grassy mound, over which there was no stone to record the name +of its occupant, covered the remains of the last of his class, a type +vanished forever, for the border is a thing of the past; and upon +the gentle breeze of that delightful morning, like the droning of +bees in a full flowered orchard, was wafted to my ears the hum of +Kansas City's civilization, only three or four miles distant, in all +of which I was sure there was nothing that would have been congenial +to the old frontiersman. + +At one time early in the '60's, while the engineers of the proposed +Union Pacific Railway were temporarily in Denver, then an insignificant +mushroom-hamlet, they became somewhat confused as to the most +practicable point in the range over which to run their line. After +debating the question, they determined, upon a suggestion from some +of the old settlers, to send for Jim Bridger, who was then visiting +in St. Louis. A pass, via the overland stage, was enclosed in a +letter to him, and he was urged to start for Denver at once, though +nothing of the business for which his presence was required was told +him in the text. + +In about two weeks the old man arrived, and the next morning, after +he had rested, asked why he had been sent for from such a distance. + +The engineers then began to explain their dilemma. The old mountaineer +waited patiently until they had finished, when, with a look of disgust +on his withered countenance, he demanded a large piece of paper, +remarking at the same time,-- + +"I could a told you fellers all that in St. Louis, and saved you +the expense of bringing me out here." + +He was handed a sheet of manilla paper, used for drawing the details +of bridge plans. The veteran pathfinder spread it on the ground +before him, took a dead coal from the ashes of the fire, drew a rough +outline map, and pointing to a certain peak just visible on the +serrated horizon, said,-- + +"There's where you fellers can cross with your road, and nowhere else, +without more diggin' an' cuttin' than you think of." + +That crude map is preserved, I have been told, in the archives of +the great corporation, and its line crosses the main spurs of the +Rocky Mountains, just where Bridger said it could with the least work. + +The resemblance of old John Smith, another of the coterie, to +President Andrew Johnson was absolutely astonishing. When that +chief magistrate, in his "swinging around the circle," had arrived +at St. Louis, and was riding through the streets of that city in an +open barouche, he was pointed out to Bridger, who happened to be +there. But the venerable guide and scout, with supreme disgust +depicted on his countenance at the idea of any one attempting to +deceive him, said to his informant,-- + +"H---l! Bill, you can't fool me! That's old John Smith." + +At one time many years ago, during Bridger's first visit to St. Louis, +then a relatively small place, a friend accidentally came across him +sitting on a dry-goods box in one of the narrow streets, evidently +disgusted with his situation. To the inquiry as to what he was doing +there all alone, the old man replied,-- + +"I've been settin' in this infernal canyon ever sence mornin', waitin' +for some one to come along an' invite me to take a drink. Hundreds +of fellers has passed both ways, but none of 'em has opened his head. +I never seen sich a onsociable crowd!" + +Bridger had a fund of most remarkable stories, which he had drawn +upon so often that he really believed them to be true. + +General Gatlin,[51] who was graduated from West Point in the early +'30's, and commanded Fort Gibson in the Cherokee Nation over sixty +years ago, told me that he remembered Bridger very well; and had +once asked the old guide whether he had ever been in the great canyon +of the Colorado River. + +"Yes, sir," replied the mountaineer, "I have, many a time. There's +where the oranges and lemons bear all the time, and the only place +I was ever at where the moon's always full!" + +He told me and also many others, at various times, that in the winter +of 1830 it began to snow in the valley of the Great Salt Lake, and +continued for seventy days without cessation. The whole country was +covered to a depth of seventy feet, and all the vast herds of buffalo +were caught in the storm and died, but their carcasses were perfectly +preserved. + +"When spring came, all I had to do," declared he, "was to tumble 'em +into Salt Lake, an' I had pickled buffalo enough for myself and the +whole Ute Nation for years!" + +He said that on account of that terrible storm, which annihilated +them, there have been no buffalo in that region since. + +Bridger had been the guide, interpreter, and companion of that +distinguished Irish sportsman, Sir George Gore, whose strange tastes +led him in 1855 to abandon life in Europe and bury himself for over +two years among the savages in the wildest and most unfrequented +glens of the Rocky Mountains. + +The outfit and adventures of this titled Nimrod, conducted as they +were on the largest scale, exceeded anything of the kind ever before +seen on this continent, and the results of his wanderings will +compare favourably with those of Gordon Cumming in Africa. + +Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of his outfit when it is +stated that his retinue consisted of about fifty individuals, +including secretaries, steward, cooks, fly-makers, dog-tenders, +servants, etc. He was borne over the country with a train of thirty +wagons, besides numerous saddle-horses and dogs. + +During his lengthened hunt he killed the enormous aggregate of forty +grizzly bears and twenty-five hundred buffalo, besides numerous +antelope and other small game. + +Bridger said of Sir George that he was a bold, dashing, and successful +hunter, and an agreeable gentleman. His habit was to lie in bed until +about ten or eleven o'clock in the morning, then he took a bath, +ate his breakfast, and set out, generally alone, for the day's hunt, +and it was not unusual for him to remain out until ten at night, +seldom returning to the tents without augmenting the catalogue of +his beasts. His dinner was then served, to which he generally +extended an invitation to Bridger, and after the meal was over, and +a few glasses of wine had been drunk, he was in the habit of reading +from some book, and eliciting from Bridger his comments thereon. +His favourite author was Shakespeare, which Bridger "reckin'd was +too highfalutin" for him; moreover he remarked, "thet he rather +calcerlated that thar big Dutchman, Mr. Full-stuff, was a leetle +too fond of lager beer," and thought it would have been better for +the old man if he had "stuck to Bourbon whiskey straight." + +Bridger seemed very much interested in the adventures of Baron +Munchausen, but admitted after Sir George had finished reading them, +that "he be dog'oned ef he swallered everything that thar Baron +Munchausen said," and thought he was "a darned liar," yet he +acknowledged that some of his own adventures among the Blackfeet +woul be equally marvellous "if writ down in a book." + +A man whose one act had made him awe-inspiring was Belzy Dodd. +Uncle Dick Wooton, in relating the story, says: "I don't know what +his first name was, but Belzy was what we called him. His head was +as bald as a billiard ball, and he wore a wig. One day while we +were all at Bent's Fort, while there were a great number of Indians +about, Belzy concluded to have a bit of fun. He walked around, eying +the Indians fiercely for some time, and finally, dashing in among +them, he gave a series of war-whoops which discounted a Comanche yell, +and pulling off his wig, threw it down at the feet of the astonished +and terror-stricken red men. + +"The savages thought the fellow had jerked off his own scalp, and not +one of them wanted to stay and see what would happen next. They left +the fort, running like so many scared jack-rabbits, and after that +none of them could be induced to approach anywhere near Dodd." + +They called him "The-white-man-who-scalps-himself," and Uncle Dick +said that he believed he could have travelled across the plains alone +with perfect safety. + +Jim Baker was another noted mountaineer and hunter of the same era as +Carson, Bridger, Wooton, Hobbs, and many others. Next to Kit Carson, +Baker was General Fremont's most valued scout. + +He was born in Illinois, and lived at home until he was eighteen +years of age, when he enlisted in the service of the American Fur +Company, went immediately to the Rocky Mountains, and remained there +until his death. He married a wife according to the Indian custom, +from the Snake tribe, living with her relatives many years and +cultivating many of their habits, ideas, and superstitions. He firmly +believed in the efficacy of the charms and incantations of the +medicine men in curing diseases, divining where their enemy was to +be found, forecasting the result of war expeditions, and other such +ridiculous matters. Unfortunately, too, Baker would sometimes take +a little more whiskey than he could conveniently carry, and often +made a fool of himself, but he was a generous, noble-hearted fellow, +who would risk his life for a friend at any time, or divide his last +morsel of food. + +Like mountaineers generally, Baker was liberal to a fault, and +eminently improvident. He made a fortune by his work, but at the +annual rendezvous of the traders, at Bent's Fort or the old Pueblo, +would throw away the earnings of months in a few days' jollification. + +He told General Marcy, who was a warm friend of his, that after one +season in which he had been unusually successful in accumulating a +large amount of valuable furs, from the sale of which he had realized +the handsome sum of nine thousand dollars, he resolved to abandon his +mountain life, return to the settlements, buy a farm, and live +comfortably during the remainder of his days. He accordingly made +ready to leave, and was on the eve of starting when a friend invited +him to visit a monte-bank which had been organized at the rendezvous. +He was easily led away, determined to take a little social amusement +with his old comrade, whom he might never see again, and followed him; +the result of which was that the whiskey circulated freely, and the +next morning found Baker without a cent of money; he had lost +everything. His entire plans were thus frustrated, and he returned +to the mountains, hunting with the Indians until he died. + +Jim Baker's opinions of the wild Indians of the great plains and +the mountains were very decided: "That they are the most onsartinist +varmints in all creation, an' I reckon thar not more'n half human; +for you never seed a human, arter you'd fed an' treated him to the +best fixin's in your lodge, jis turn round and steal all your horses, +or ary other thing he could lay his hands on. No, not adzactly. +He would feel kind o' grateful, and ask you to spread a blanket in +his lodge ef you ever came his way. But the Injin don't care shucks +for you, and is ready to do you a lot of mischief as soon as he quits +your feed. No, Cap.," he said to Marcy when relating this, "it's not +the right way to make 'em gifts to buy a peace; but ef I war gov'nor +of these United States, I'll tell what I'd do. I'd invite 'em all +to a big feast, and make 'em think I wanted to have a talk; and as +soon as I got 'em together, I'd light in and raise the har of half +of 'em, and then t'other half would be mighty glad to make terms +that would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with the dog'oned +red-bellied varmints; and as sure as you're born, Cap., that's the +only way." + +The general, when he first met Baker, inquired of him if he had +travelled much over the settlements of the United States before he +came to the mountains; to which he said: "Right smart, right smart, +Cap." He then asked whether he had visited New York or New Orleans. +"No, I hasn't, Cap., but I'll tell you whar I have been. I've been +mighty nigh all over four counties in the State of Illinois!" + +He was very fond of his squaw and children, and usually treated +them kindly; only when he was in liquor did he at all maltreat them. + +Once he came over into New Mexico, where General Marcy was stationed +at the time, and determined that for the time being he would cast +aside his leggings, moccasins, and other mountain dress, and wear +a civilized wardrobe. Accordingly, he fitted himself out with one. +When Marcy met him shortly after he had donned the strange clothes, +he had undergone such an entire change that the general remarked +he should hardly have known him. He did not take kindly to this, +and said: "Consarn these store butes, Cap.; they choke my feet like +h---l." It was the first time in twenty years that he had worn +anything on his feet but moccasins, and they were not ready for the +torture inflicted by breaking in a new pair of absurdly fitting +boots. He soon threw them away, and resumed the softer foot-gear +of the mountains. + +Baker was a famous bear hunter, and had been at the death of many +a grizzly. On one occasion he was setting his traps with a comrade +on the head waters of the Arkansas, when they suddenly met two young +grizzly bears about the size of full-grown dogs. Baker remarked +to his friend that if they could "light in and kill the varmints" +with their knives, it would be a big thing to boast of. They both +accordingly laid aside their rifles and "lit in," Baker attacking +one and his comrade the other. The bears immediately raised +themselves on their haunches, and were ready for the encounter. +Baker ran around, endeavouring to get in a blow from behind with his +long knife; but the young brute he had tackled was too quick for +him, and turned as he went around so as always to confront him +face to face. He knew if he came within reach of his claws, that +although young, he could inflict a formidable wound; moreover, he was +in fear that the howls of the cubs would bring the infuriated mother +to their rescue, when the hunters' chances of getting away would +be slim. These thoughts floated hurriedly through his mind, and +made him desirous to end the fight as soon as he could. He made +many vicious lunges at the bear, but the animal invariably warded +them off with his strong fore legs like a boxer. This kind of +tactics, however, cost the lively beast several severe cuts on his +shoulders, which made him the more furious. At length he took the +offensive, and with his month frothing with rage, bounded toward +Baker, who caught and wrestled with him, succeeding in giving him +a death-wound under the ribs. + +While all this was going on, his comrade had been furiously engaged +with the other bear, and by this time had become greatly exhausted, +with the odds decidedly against him. He entreated Baker to come to +his assistance at once, which he did; but much to his astonishment, +as soon as he entered the second contest his comrade ran off, leaving +him to fight the battle alone. He was, however, again victorious, +and soon had the satisfaction of seeing his two antagonists stretched +out in front of him, but as he expressed it, "I made my mind up I'd +never fight nary nother grizzly without a good shootin'-iron in my paws." + +He established a little store at the crossing of Green River, and +had for some time been doing a fair business in trafficking with +the emigrants and trading with the Indians; but shortly a Frenchman +came to the same locality and set up a rival establishment, which, +of course, divided the limited trade, and naturally reduced the +income of Baker's business. + +This engendered a bitter feeling of hostility, which soon culminated +in a cessation of all social intercourse between the two men. About +this time General Marcy arrived there on his way to California, and +he describes the situation of affairs thus:-- + +"I found Baker standing in his door, with a revolver loaded and +cocked in each hand, very drunk and immensely excited. I dismounted +and asked him the cause of all this disturbance. He answered: 'That +thar yaller-bellied, toad-eatin' Parly Voo, over thar, an' me, we've +been havin' a small chance of a scrimmage to-day. The sneakin' +pole-cat, I'll raise his har yet, ef he don't quit these diggins'!' + +"It seems that they had an altercation in the morning, which ended +in a challenge, when they ran to their cabins, seized their revolvers, +and from the doors, which were only about a hundred yards from each +other, fired. Then they retired to their cabins, took a drink of +whiskey, reloaded their revolvers, and again renewed the combat. +This strange duel had been going on for several hours when I arrived, +but, fortunately for them, the whiskey had such an effect on their +nerves that their aim was very unsteady, and none of the shots had +as yet taken effect. + +"I took away Baker's revolvers, telling him how ashamed I was to +find a man of his usually good sense making such a fool of himself. +He gave in quietly, saying that he knew I was his friend, but did not +think I would wish to have him take insults from a cowardly Frenchman. + +"The following morning at daylight Jim called at my tent to bid me +good-by, and seemed very sorry for what had occurred the day before. +He stated that this was the first time since his return from +New Mexico that he had allowed himself to drink whiskey, and when +the whiskey was in him he had 'nary sense.'" + +Among the many men who have distinguished themselves as mountaineers, +traders, and Indian fighters along the line of the Old Trail, was +one who eventually became the head chief of one of the most numerous +and valorous tribes of North American savages--James P. Beckwourth. +Estimates of him vary considerably. Francis Parkman, the historian, +who I think never saw him and writes merely from hearsay, says: +"He is a ruffian of the worst class; bloody and treacherous, without +honor or honesty; such, at least, is the character he bears on the +great plains. Yet in his case the standard rules of character fail; +for though he will stab a man in his slumber, he will also do the +most desperate and daring acts." + +I never saw Beckwourth, but I have heard of him from those of my +mountaineer friends who knew him intimately; I think that he died +long before Parkman made his tour to the Rocky Mountains. Colonel +Boone, the Bents, Carson, Maxwell, and others ascribed to him no +such traits as those given by Parkman, and as to his honesty, it is +an unquestioned fact that Beckwourth was the most honest trader +among the Indians of all who were then engaged in the business. +As Kit Carson and Colonel Boone were the only Indian agents whom +I ever knew or heard of that dealt honestly with the various tribes, +as they were always ready to acknowledge, and the withdrawal of the +former by the government was the cause of a great war, so also +Beckwourth was an honest Indian trader. + +He was a born leader of men, and was known from the Yellowstone to +the Rio Grande, from Santa Fe to Independence, and in St. Louis. +From the latter town he ran away when a boy with a party of trappers, +and himself became one of the most successful of that hardy class. +The woman who bore him had played in her childhood beneath the palm +trees of Africa; his father was a native of France, and went to the +banks of the wild Mississippi of his own free will, but probably +also from reasons of political interest to his government. + +In person Beckwourth was of medium height and great muscular power, +quick of apprehension, and with courage of the highest order. +Probably no man ever met with more personal adventures involving +danger to life, even among the mountaineers and trappers who early +in the century faced the perils of the remote frontier. From his +neck he always wore suspended a perforated bullet, with a large +oblong bead on each side of it, tied in place by a single thread +of sinew. This amulet he obtained while chief of the Crows,[52] +and it was his "medicine," with which he excited the superstition +of his warriors. + +His success as a trader among the various tribes of Indians has +never been surpassed; for his close intimacy with them made him +know what would best please their taste, and they bought of him +when other traders stood idly at their stockades, waiting almost +hopelessly for customers. + +But Beckwourth himself said: "The traffic in whiskey for Indian +property was one of the most infernal practices ever entered into by +man. Let the most casual thinker sit down and figure up the profits +on a forty-gallon cask of alcohol, and he will be thunderstruck, or +rather whiskey-struck. When it was to be disposed of, four gallons +of water were added to each gallon of alcohol. In two hundred gallons +there are sixteen hundred pints, for each one of which the trader +got a buffalo-robe worth five dollars. The Indian women toiled many +long weeks to dress those sixteen hundred robes. The white traders +got them for worse than nothing; for the poor Indian mother hid +herself and her children until the effect of the poison passed away +from the husband and father, who loved them when he had no whiskey, +and abused and killed them when he had. Six thousand dollars for +sixty gallons of alcohol! Is it a wonder with such profits that +men got rich who were engaged in the fur trade? Or was it a miracle +that the buffalo were gradually exterminated?--killed with so little +remorse that the hides, among the Indians themselves, were known +by the appellation of 'A pint of whiskey.'" + +Beckwourth claims to have established the Pueblo where the beautiful +city of Pueblo, Colorado, is now situated. He says: "On the 1st +of October, 1842, on the Upper Arkansas, I erected a trading-post +and opened a successful business. In a very short time I was joined +by from fifteen to twenty free trappers, with their families. +We all united our labour and constructed an adobe fort sixty yards +square. By the following spring it had grown into quite a little +settlement, and we gave it the name of Pueblo." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. +UNCLE DICK WOOTON. + + + +Immediately after Kit Carson, the second wreath of pioneer laurels, +for bravery and prowess as an Indian fighter, and trapper, must be +conceded to Richens Lacy Wooton, known first as "Dick," in his +younger days on the plains, then, when age had overtaken him, +as "Uncle Dick." + +Born in Virginia, his father, when he was but seven years of age, +removed with his family to Kentucky, where he cultivated a tobacco +plantation. Like his predecessor and lifelong friend Carson, +young Wooton tired of the monotony of farming, and in the summer +of 1836 made a trip to the busy frontier town of Independence, +Missouri, where he found a caravan belonging to Colonel St. Vrain +and the Bents, already loaded, and ready to pull out for the fort +built by the latter, and named for them. + +Wooton had a fair business education, and was superior in this +respect to his companions in the caravan to which he had attached +himself. It was by those rough, but kind-hearted, men that he was +called "Dick," as they could not readily master the more complicated +name of "Richens." + +When he started from Independence on his initial trip across the +plains, he was only nineteen, but, like all Kentuckians, perfectly +familiar with a rifle, and could shoot out a squirrel's eye with +the certainty which long practice and hardened nerves assures. + +The caravan, in which he was employed as a teamster, was composed +of only seven wagons; but a larger one, in which were more than fifty, +had preceded it, and as that was heavily laden, and the smaller one +only lightly, it was intended to overtake the former before the +dangerous portions of the Trail were reached, which it did in a few +days and was assigned a place in the long line. + +Every man had to take his turn in standing guard, and the first night +that it fell to young Wooton was at Little Cow Creek, in the Upper +Arkansas valley. Nothing had occurred thus far during the trip +to imperil the safety of the caravan, nor was any attack by the +savages looked for. + +Wooton's post comprehended the whole length of one side of the corral, +and his instructions were to shoot anything he saw moving outside +of the line of mules farthest from the wagons. The young sentry +was very vigilant. He did not feel at all sleepy, but eagerly +watched for something that might possibly come within the prescribed +distance, though not really expecting such a contingency. + +About two o'clock he heard a slight noise, and saw something moving +about, sixty or seventy yards from where he was lying on the ground, +to which he had dropped the moment the strange sound reached his ears. +Of course, his first thoughts were of Indians, and the more he peered +through the darkness at the slowly moving object, the more convinced +he was that it must be a blood-thirsty savage. + +He rose to his feet and blazed away, the shot rousing everbody, and +all came rushing with their guns to learn what the matter was. + +Wooton told the wagon-master that he had seen what he supposed was +an Indian trying to slip up to the mules, and that he had killed him. +Some of the men crept very circumspectly to the spot where the +supposed dead savage was lying, while young Wooton remained at his +post eagerly waiting for their report. Presently he heard a voice +cry out: "I'll be d---d ef he hain't killed 'Old Jack!'" + +"Old Jack" was one of the lead mules of one of the wagons. He had +torn up his picket-pin and strayed outside of the lines, with the +result that the faithful brute met his death at the hands of the +sentry. Wooton declared that he was not to be blamed; for the animal +had disobeyed orders, while he had strictly observed them![53] + +At Pawnee Fork, a few days later, the caravan had a genuine tussle +with the Comanches. It was a bright moonlight night, and about two +hundred of the mounted savages attacked them. It was a rare thing +for Indians to begin a raid after dark, but they swept down on the +unsuspecting teamsters, yelling like a host of demons. They were +armed with bows and arrows generally, though a few of them had +fusees.[54] They received a warm greeting, although they were not +expected, the guard noticing the savages in time to prevent a stampede +of the animals, which evidently was the sole purpose for which they +came, as they did not attempt to break through the corral to get at +the wagons. It was the mules they were after. They charged among +the men, vainly endeavouring to frighten the animals and make them +break loose, discharging showers of arrows as they rode by. The camp +was too hot for them, however, defended as it was by old teamsters +who had made the dangerous passage of the plains many times before, +and were up to all the Indian tactics. They failed to get a single +mule, but paid for their temerity by leaving three of their party +dead, just where they had been tumbled off their horses, not even +having time to carry the bodies off, as they usually do. + +Wooton passed some time during the early days of his career at +Bent's Fort, in 1836-37. He was a great favourite with both of +the proprietors, and with them went to the several Indian villages, +where he learned the art of trading with the savages. + +The winters of the years mentioned were noted for the incursions +of the Pawnees into the region of the fort. They always pretended +friendship for the whites, when any of them were inside of its sacred +precincts, but their whole manner changed when they by some stroke +of fortune caught a trapper or hunter alone on the prairie or in +the foot-hills; he was a dead man sure, and his scalp was soon +dangling at the belt of his cowardly assassins. Hardly a day passed +without witnessing some poor fellow running for the fort with a band +of the red devils after him; frequently he escaped the keen edge of +their scalping-knife, but every once in a while a man was killed. +At one time, two herders who were with their animals within fifty +yards of the fort, going out to the grazing ground, were killed and +every hoof of stock run off. + +A party from the fort, comprising only eight men, among whom was +young Wooton, made up for lost time with the Indians, at the crossing +of Pawnee Fork, the same place where he had had his first fight. +The men had set out from the fort for the purpose of meeting a small +caravan of wagons from the East, loaded with supplies for the Bents' +trading post. It happened that a band of sixteen Pawnees were +watching for the arrival of the train, too.[55] Wooton's party were +well mounted, while the Pawnees were on foot, and although the savages +were two to one, the advantage was decidedly in favour of the whites. + +The Indians were armed with bows and arrows only, and while it was +an easy matter for the whites to keep out of the way of the shower +of missiles which the Indians commenced to hurl at them, the latter +became an easy prey to the unerring rifles of their assailants, +who killed thirteen out of the sixteen in a very short time. +The remaining three took French leave of their comrades at the +beginning of the conflict, and abandoning their arms rushed up to +the caravan, which was just appearing over a small divide, and gave +themselves up. The Indian custom was observed in their case,[56] +although it was rarely that any prisoners were taken in these +conflicts on the Trail. Another curious custom was also followed.[57] +When the party encamped they were well fed, and the next morning +supplied with rations enough to last them until they could reach one +of their villages, and sent off to tell their head chief what had +become of the rest of his warriors. + +Wooton had an adventure once while he was stationed at Bent's Fort +during a trading expedition with the Utes, on the Purgatoire, or +Purgatory River,[58] about ten or twelve miles from Trinidad. +He had taken with him, with others, a Shawnee Indian. Only a short +time before their departure from the fort, an Indian of that tribe +had been murdered by a Ute, and one day this Shawnee who was with +Wooton spied a Ute, when revenge inspired him, and he forthwith +killed his enemy. Knowing that as soon as the news of the shooting +reached the Ute village, which was not a great distance off, +the whole tribe would be down upon him, Wooton abandoned any attempt +to trade with them and tried to get out of their country as quickly +as he could. + +As he expected, the Utes followed on his trail, and came up with his +little party on a prairie where there was not the slightest chance +to ambush or hide. They had to fight, because they could not help +it, but resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible, as the +Utes outnumbered them twenty to one; Wooton having only eight men +with him, including the Shawnee. + +The pack-animals, of which they had a great many, loaded with the +goods intended for the savages, were corralled in a circle, inside +of which the men hurried themselves and awaited the first assault +of the foe. In a few moments the Utes began to circle around the +trappers and open fire. The trappers promptly responded, and they +made every shot count; for all of the men, not even excepting the +Shawnee, were experts with the rifle. They did not mind the arrows +which the Utes showered upon them, as few, if any, reached to where +they stood. The savages had a few guns, but they were of the poorest +quality; besides, they did not know how to handle them then as they +learned to do later, so their bullets were almost as harmless as +their arrows. + +The trappers made terrible havoc among the Utes' horses, killing +so many of them that the savages in despair abandoned the fight and +gave Wooton and his men an opportunity to get away, which they did +as rapidly as possible. + +The Raton Pass, through which the Old Trail ran, was a relatively +fair mountain road, but originally it was almost impossible for +anything in the shape of a wheeled vehicle to get over the narrow +rock-ribbed barrier; saddle horses and pack-mules could, however, +make the trip without much difficulty. It was the natural highway to +southeastern Colorado and northeastern New Mexico, but the overland +coaches could not get to Trinidad by the shortest route, and as the +caravans also desired to make the same line, it occurred to Uncle +Dick that he would undertake to hew out a road through the pass, +which, barring grades, should be as good as the average turnpike. +He could see money in it for him, as he expected to charge toll, +keeping the road in repair at his own expense, and he succeeded in +procuring from the legislatures of Colorado and New Mexico charters +covering the rights and privileges which he demanded for his project. + +In the spring of 1866, Uncle Dick took up his abode on the top of +the mountains, built his home, and lived there until two years ago, +when he died at a very ripe old age. + +The old trapper had imposed on himself anything but an easy task in +constructing his toll-road. There were great hillsides to cut out, +immense ledges of rocks to blast, bridges to build by the dozen, and +huge trees to fell, besides long lines of difficult grading to engineer. + +Eventually Uncle Dick's road was a fact, but when it was completed, +how to make it pay was a question that seriously disturbed his mind. +The method he employed to solve the problem I will quote in his +own words: "Such a thing as a toll-road was unknown in the country +at that time. People who had come from the States understood, +of course, that the object of building a turnpike was to enable +the owner to collect toll from those who travelled over it, but I +had to deal with a great many people who seemed to think that they +should be as free to travel over my well-graded and bridged roadway +as they were to follow an ordinary cow path. + +"I may say that I had five classes of patrons to do business with. +There was the stage company and its employees, the freighters, the +military authorities, who marched troops and transported supplies +over the road, the Mexicans, and the Indians. + +"With the stage company, the military authorities, and the American +freighters I had no trouble. With the Indians, when a band came +through now and then, I didn't care to have any controversy about +so small a matter as a few dollars toll! Whenever they came along, +the toll-gate went up, and any other little thing I could do to +hurry them on was done promptly and cheerfully. While the Indians +didn't understand anything about the system of collecting tolls, +they seemed to recognize the fact that I had a right to control +the road, and they would generally ride up to the gate and ask +permission to go through. Once in a while the chief of a band would +think compensation for the privilege of going through in order, and +would make me a present of a buckskin or something of that sort. + +"My Mexican patrons were the hardest to get along with. Paying for +the privilege of travelling over any road was something they were +totally unused to, and they did not take to it kindly. They were +pleased with my road and liked to travel over it, until they came +to the toll-gate. This they seemed to look upon as an obstruction +that no man had a right to place in the way of a free-born native +of the mountain region. They appeared to regard the toll-gate as +a new scheme for holding up travellers for the purpose of robbery, +and many of them evidently thought me a kind of freebooter, who ought +to be suppressed by law. + +"Holding these views, when I asked them for a certain amount of money, +before raising the toll-gate, they naturally differed with me very +frequently about the propriety of complying with the request. + +"In other words, there would be at such times probably an honest +difference of opinion between the man who kept the toll-gate and +the man who wanted to get through it. Anyhow, there was a difference, +and such differences had to be adjusted. Sometimes I did it through +diplomacy, and sometimes I did it with a club. It was always settled +one way, however, and that was in accordance with the toll schedule, +so that I could never have been charged with unjust discrimination +of rates." + +Soon after the road was opened a company composed of Californians +and Mexicans, commanded by a Captain Haley, passed Uncle Dick's +toll-gate and house, escorting a large caravan of about a hundred +and fifty wagons. While they stopped there, a non-commissioned +officer of the party was brutally murdered by three soldiers, and +Uncle Dick came very near being a witness to the atrocious deed. + +The murdered man was a Mexican, and his slayers were Mexicans too. +The trouble originated at Las Vegas, where the privates had been +bound and gagged, by order of the corporal, for creating a disturbance +at a fandango the evening before. + +The name of the corporal was Juan Torres, and he came down to Uncle +Dick's one evening while the command was encamped on the top of the +mountain, accompanied by the three privates, who had already plotted +to kill him, though he had not the slightest suspicion of it. + +Uncle Dick, in telling the story, said: "They left at an early hour, +going in an opposite direction from their camp, and I closed my doors +soon after, for the night. They had not been gone more than half +an hour, when I heard them talking not far from my house, and a few +seconds later I heard the half-suppressed cry of a man who has +received his death-blow. + +"I had gone to bed, and lay for a minute or two thinking whether I +should get up and go to the rescue or insure my own safety by +remaining where I was. + +"A little reflection convinced me that the murderers were undoubtedly +watching my house, to prevent any interference with the carrying out +of their plot, and that if I ventured out I should only endanger +my own life, while there was scarcely a possibility of my being +able to save the life of the man who had been assailed. + +"In the morning, when I got up, I found the dead body of the corporal +stretched across Raton Creek, not more than a hundred yards from my house. + +"As I surmised, he had been struck with a heavy club or stone, and +it was at that time that I heard his cry. After that his brains +had been beaten out, and the body left where I had found it. + +"I at once notified Captain Haley of the occurrence, and identified +the men who had been in company with the corporal, and who were +undoubtedly his murderers. + +"They were taken into custody, and made a confession, in which they +stated that one of their number had stood at my door on the night +of the murder to shoot me if I had ventured out to assist the +corporal. Two of the scoundrels were hung afterward at Las Vegas, +and the third sent to prison for life." + +The corporal was buried near where the soldiers were encamped at +the time of the tragedy, and it is his lonely grave which frequently +attracts the attention of the passengers on the Atchison, Topeka, +and Santa Fe trains, just before the Raton tunnel is reached, as +they travel southward. + +In 1866-67 the Indians broke out, infesting all the most prominent +points of the Old Santa Fe Trail, and watching an opportunity to +rob and murder, so that the government freight caravans and the +stages had to be escorted by detachments of troops. Fort Larned +was the western limit where these escorts joined the outfits going +over into New Mexico. + +There were other dangers attending the passage of the Trail to +travellers by the stage besides the attacks of the savages. These +were the so-called road agents--masked robbers who regarded life as +of little worth in the accomplishment of their nefarious purposes. +Particularly were they common after the mines of New Mexico began +to be operated by Americans. The object of the bandits was generally +the strong box of the express company, which contained money and +other valuables. They did not, of course, hesitate to take what +ready cash and jewelry the passengers might happen to have upon +their persons, and frequently their hauls amounted to large sums. + +When the coaches began to travel over Uncle Dick's toll-road, his +house was made a station, and he had many stage stories. He said:-- + +"Tavern-keepers in those days couldn't choose their guests, and we +entertained them just as they came along. The knights of the road +would come by now and then, order a meal, eat it hurriedly, pay for +it, and move on to where they had arranged to hold up a stage that +night. Sometimes they did not wait for it to get dark, but halted +the stage, went through the treasure box in broad daylight, and +then ordered the driver to move on in one direction, while they +went off in another. + +"One of the most daring and successful stage robberies that I remember +was perpetrated by two men, when the east-bound coach was coming up +on the south side of the Raton Mountains, one day about ten o'clock +in the forenoon. + +"On the morning of the same day, a little after sunrise, two rather +genteel-looking fellows, mounted on fine horses, rode up to my +house and ordered breakfast. Being informed that breakfast would +be ready in a few minutes, they dismounted, hitched their horses +near the door, and came into the house. + +"I knew then, just as well as I do now, they were robbers, but I +had no warrant for their arrest, and I should have hesitated about +serving it if I had, because they looked like very unpleasant men +to transact that kind of business with. + +"Each of them had four pistols sticking in his belt and a repeating +rifle strapped on to his saddle. When they dismounted, they left +their rifles with the horses, but walked into the house and sat down +at the table, without laying aside the arsenal which they carried +in their belts. + +"They had little to say while eating, but were courteous in their +behaviour, and very polite to the waiters. When they had finished +breakfast, they paid their bills, and rode leisurely up the mountain. + +"It did not occur to me that they would take chances on stopping +the stage in daylight, or I should have sent some one to meet the +incoming coach, which I knew would be along shortly, to warn the +driver and passengers to be on the lookout for robbers. + +"It turned out, however, that a daylight robbery was just what they +had in mind, and they made a success of it. + +"About halfway down the New Mexico side of the mountain, where the +canyon is very narrow, and was then heavily wooded on either side, +the robbers stopped and waited for the coach. It came lumbering +along by and by, neither the driver nor the passengers dreaming of +a hold-up. + +"The first intimation they had of such a thing was when they saw +two men step into the road, one on each side of the stage, each of +them holding two cocked revolvers, one of which was brought to bear +on the passengers and the other on the driver, who were politely +but very positively told that they must throw up their hands without +any unnecessary delay, and the stage came to a standstill. + +"There were four passengers in the coach, all men, but their hands +went up at the same instant that the driver dropped his reins and +struck an attitude that suited the robbers. + +"Then, while one of the men stood guard, the other stepped up to +the stage and ordered the treasure box thrown off. This demand was +complied with, and the box was broken and rifled of its contents, +which fortunately were not of very great value. + +"The passengers were compelled to hand out their watches and other +jewelry, as well as what money they had in their pockets, and then +the driver was directed to move up the road. In a minute after +this the robbers had disappeared with their booty, and that was +the last seen of them by that particular coach-load of passengers. + +"The men who planned and executed that robbery were two cool, +level-headed, and daring scoundrels, known as 'Chuckle-luck' and +'Magpie.' They were killed soon after this occurrence, by a member +of their own band, whose name was Seward. A reward of a thousand +dollars had been offered for their capture, an this tempted Seward +to kill them, one night when they were asleep in camp. + +"He then secured a wagon, into which he loaded the dead robbers, +and hauled them to Cimarron City, where he turned them over to the +authorities and received his reward." + +Among the Arapahoes Wooton was called "Cut Hand," from the fact +that he had lost two fingers on his left hand by an accident in his +childhood. The tribe had the utmost veneration for the old trapper, +and he was perfectly safe at any time in their villages or camps; +it had been the request of a dying chief, who was once greatly +favoured by Wooton, that his warriors should never injure him although +the nation might be at war with all the rest of the whites in the world. + +Uncle Dick died a few seasons ago, at the age of nearly ninety. +He was blind for some time, but a surgical operation partly restored +his sight, which made the old man happy, because he could look again +upon the beautiful scenery surrounding his mountain home, really +the grandest in the entire Raton Range. The Atchison, Topeka, and +Santa Fe Railroad had one of its freight locomotives named "Uncle +Dick," in honour of the veteran mountaineer, past whose house it +hauled the heavy-laden trains up the steep grade crossing into the +valley beyond. At the time of its baptism, now fifteen or sixteen +years ago, it was the largest freight engine in the world. + +Old Bill Williams was another character of the early days of the +Trail, and was called so when Carson, Uncle Dick Wooton, and Maxwell +were comparatively young in the mountains. He was, at the time of +their advent in the remote West, one of the best known men there, +and had been famous for years as a hunter and trapper. Williams was +better acquainted with every pass in the Rockies than any other man +of his time, and only surpassed by Jim Bridger later. He was with +General Fremont on his exploring expedition across the continent; +but the statement of the old trappers, and that of General Fremont, +in relation to his services then, differ widely. Fremont admits +Williams' knowledge of the country over which he had wandered to have +been very extensive, but when put to the test on the expedition, +he came very near sacrificing the lives of all. This was probably +owing to Williams' failing intellect, for when he joined the great +explorer he was past the meridian of life. Now the old mountaineers +contend that if Fremont had profited by the old man's advice, he would +never have run into the deathtrap which cost him three men, and +in which he lost all his valuable papers, his instruments, and the +animals which he and his party were riding. The expedition had +followed the Arkansas River to its source, and the general had +selected a route which he desired to pursue in crossing the mountains. +It was winter, and Williams explained to him that it was perfectly +impracticable to get over at that season. The general, however, +ignoring the statement, listened to another of his party, a man who +had no such experience but said that he could pilot the expedition. +Before they had fairly started, they were caught in one of the most +terrible snowstorms the region had ever witnessed, in which all their +horses and mules were literally frozen to death. Then, when it was +too late, they turned back, abandoning their instruments, and able +only to carry along a very limited stock of food. The storm continued +to rage, so that even Williams failed to prevent them from getting +lost, and they wandered about aimlessly for many days before they +luckily arrived at Taos, suffering seriously from exhaustion and +hunger. Three of the men were frozen to death on the return trip, +and the remaining fifteen were little better than dead when Uncle +Dick Wooton happened to run across them and piloted them into the +village. It was immediately after this disaster that the three most +noted men in the mountains--Carson, Maxwell, and Dick Owens--became the +guides of the pathfinder, with whom he had no trouble, and to whom +he owed more of his success than history has given them credit for. + +At one period of his eventful career, while he lived in Missouri, +before he wandered to the mountains, Old Bill Williams was a Methodist +preacher; of which fact he boasted frequently while he trapped and +hunted with other pioneers. Whenever he related that portion of his +early life, he declared that he "was so well known in his circuit, +that the chickens recognized him as he came riding by the scattered +farmhouses, and the old roosters would crow 'Here comes Parson +Williams! One of us must be made ready for dinner.'" + +Upon leaving the States, he travelled very extensively among the +various tribes of Indians who roamed over the great plains and in the +mountains. When sojourning with a certain band, he would invariably +adopt their manners and customs. Whenever he grew tired of that +nation, he would seek another and live as they lived. He had been +so long among the savages that he looked and talked like one, and +had imbibed many of their strange notions and curious superstitions. + +To the missionaries he was very useful. He possessed the faculty +of easily acquiring languages that other white men failed to learn, +and could readily translate the Bible into several Indian dialects. +His own conduct, however, was in strange contrast with the precepts +of the Holy Book with which he was so familiar. + +To the native Mexicans he was a holy terror and an unsolvable riddle. +They thought him possessed of an evil spirit. He at one time took up +his residence among them and commenced to trade. Shortly after he +had established himself and gathered in a stock of goods, he became +involved in a dispute with some of his customers in relation to his +prices. Upon this he apparently took an intense dislike to the +people whom he had begun to traffic with, and in his disgust tossed +his whole mass of goods into the street, and, taking up his rifle, +left at once for the mountains. + +Among the many wild ideas he had imbibed from his long association +with the Indians, was faith in their belief in the transmigration +of souls. He used so to worry his brain for hours cogitating upon +this intricate problem concerning a future state, that he actually +pretended to know exactly the animal whose place he was destined to +fill in the world after he had shaken off this mortal human coil. + +Uncle Dick Wooton told how once, when he, Old Bill Williams, and +many other trappers, were lying around the camp-fire one night, +the strange fellow, in a preaching style of delivery, related to them +all how he was to be changed into a buck elk and intended to make +his pasture in the very region where they then were. He described +certain peculiarities which would distinguish him from the common +run of elk, and was very careful to caution all those present never +to shoot such an animal, should they ever run across him. + +Williams was regarded as a warm-hearted, brave, and generous man. +He was at last killed by the Indians, while trading with them, but +has left his name to many mountain peaks, rivers, and passes +discovered by him. + +Tom Tobin, one of the last of the famous trappers, hunters, and Indian +fighters to cross the dark river, flourished in the early days, when +the Rocky Mountains were a veritable terra incognita to nearly all +excepting the hardy employees of the several fur companies and the +limited number of United States troops stationed in their remote wilds. + +Tom was an Irishman, quick-tempered, and a dead shot with either +rifle, revolver, or the formidable bowie-knife. He would fight at +the drop of the hat, but no man ever went away from his cabin hungry, +if he had a crust to divide; or penniless, if there was anything +remaining in his purse. + +He, like Carson, was rather under the average stature, red-faced, +and lacking much of being an Adonis, but whole-souled, and as quick +in his movements as an antelope. + +Tobin played an important rôle in avenging the death of the Americans +killed in the Taos massacre, at the storming of the Indian pueblo, +but his greatest achievement was the ending of the noted bandit +Espinosa's life, who, at the height of his career of blood, was the +terror of the whole mountain region. + +At the time of the acquisition of New Mexico by the United States, +Espinosa, who was a Mexican, owning vast herds of cattle and sheep, +resided upon his ancestral hacienda in a sort of barbaric luxury, +with a host of semi-serfs, known as Peons, to do his bidding, as did +the other "Muy Ricos," the "Dons," so called, of his class of natives. +These self-styled aristocrats of the wild country all boasted of +their Castilian blue blood, claiming descent from the nobles of +Cortez' army, but the fact is, however, with rare exceptions, that +their male ancestors, the rank and file of that army, intermarried +with the Aztec women, and they were really only a mixture of Indian +and Spanish. + +It so happened that Espinosa met an adventurous American, who, with +hundreds of others, had been attached to the "Army of Occupation" +in the Mexican War, or had emigrated from the States to seek their +fortunes in the newly acquired and much over-rated territory. + +The Mexican Don and the American became fast friends, the latter +making his home with his newly found acquaintance at the beautiful +ranch in the mountains, where they played the rôle of a modern Damon +and Pythias. + +Now with Don Espinosa lived his sister, a dark-eyed, bewitchingly +beautiful girl about seventeen years old, with whom the susceptible +American fell deeply in love, and his affection was reciprocated +by the maiden, with a fervour of which only the women of the race +from which she sprang are capable. + +The fascinating American had brought with him from his home in one +of the New England States a large amount of money, for his parents +were rich, and spared no indulgence to their only son. He very soon +unwisely made Espinosa his confidant, and told him of the wealth +he possessed. + +One night after the American had retired to his chamber, adjoining +that of his host, he was surprised, shortly after he had gone to bed, +by discovering a man standing over him, whose hand had already grasped +the buckskin bag under his pillow which contained a considerable +portion of his gold and silver. He sprang from his couch and fired +his pistol at random in the darkness at the would-be robber. + +Espinosa, for it was he, was wounded slightly, and, being either +enraged or frightened, he stabbed with his keen-pointed stiletto, +which all Mexicans then carried, the young man whom he had invited +to become his guest, and the blade entered the American's heart, +killing him instantly. + +The report of the pistol-shot awakened the other members of the +household, who came rushing into the room just as the victim was +breathing his last. Among them was the sister of the murderer, +who, throwing herself on the body of her dead lover, poured forth +the most bitter curses upon her brother. + +Espinosa, realizing the terrible position in which he had placed +himself, then and there determined to become an outlaw, as he could +frame no excuse for his wicked deed. He therefore hid himself +at once in the mountains, carrying with him, of course, the sack +containing the murdered American's money. + +Some time necessarily passed before he could get together a sufficient +number of cut-throats and renegades from justice to enable him wholly +to defy the authorities; but at last he succeeded in rallying a +strong force to his standard of blood, and became the terror of the +whole region, equalling in boldness and audacity the terrible Joaquin, +of California notoriety in after years. + +His headquarters were in the almost impregnable fastnesses of the +Sangre de Cristo Mountains, from which he made his invariably +successful raids into the rich valleys below. There was nothing +too bloody for him to shrink from; he robbed indiscriminately the +overland coaches to Santa Fe, the freight caravans of the traders +and government, the ranches of the Mexicans, or stole from the poorer +classes, without any compunction. He ran off horses, cattle, sheep-- +in fact, anything that he could utilize. If murder was necessary +to the completion of his work, he never for a moment hesitated. +Kidnapping, too, was a favourite pastime; but he rarely carried +away to his rendezvous any other than the most beautiful of the +New Mexican young girls, whom he held in his mountain den until +they were ransomed, or subjected to a fate more terrible. + +In 1864 the bandit, after nearly ten years of unparalleled outlawry, +was killed by Tobin. Tom had been on his trail for some time, and +at last tracked him to a temporary camp in the foot-hills, which +he accidentally discovered in a grove of cottonwoods, by the smoke +of the little camp-fire as it curled in light wreaths above the trees. + +Tobin knew that at the time there was but one of Espinosa's followers +with him, as he had watched them both for some days, waiting for an +opportunity to get the drop on them. To capture the pair of outlaws +alive never entered his thoughts; he was as cautious as brave, and +to get them dead was much safer and easier; so he crept up to the +grove on his belly, Indian fashion, and lying behind the cover of +a friendly log, waited until the noted desperado stood up, when he +pulled the trigger of his never-erring rifle, and Espinosa fell dead. +A second shot quickly disposed of his companion, and the old trapper's +mission was accomplished. + +To be able to claim the reward offered by the authorities, Tom had +to prove, beyond the possibility of doubt, that those whom he had +killed were the dreaded bandit and one of his gang. He thought it +best to cut off their heads, which he deliberately did, and packing +them on his mule in a gunny-sack, he brought them into old Fort +Massachusetts, afterward Fort Garland, where they were speedily +recognized; but whether Tom ever received the reward, I have my +doubts, as he never claimed that he did. Tobin died only a short +time ago, gray, grizzled, and venerable, his memory respected by all +who had ever met him. + +James Hobbs, among all the men of whom I have presented a hurried +sketch, had perhaps a more varied experience than any of his colleagues. +During his long life on the frontier, he was in turn a prisoner among +the savages, and held for years by them; an excellent soldier in +the war with Mexico; an efficient officer in the revolt against +Maximilian, when the attempt of Napoleon to establish an empire on +this continent, with that unfortunate prince at its head, was defeated; +an Indian fighter; a miner; a trapper; a trader, and a hunter. + +Hobbs was born in the Shawnee nation, on the Big Blue, about +twenty-three miles from Independence, Missouri. His early childhood +was entrusted to one of his father's slaves. Reared on the eastern +limit of the border, he very soon became familiar with the use of +the rifle and shot-gun; in fact, he was the principal provider of +all the meat which the family consumed. + +In 1835, when only sixteen, he joined a fur-trading expedition under +Charles Bent, destined for the fort on the Arkansas River built by +him and his brothers. + +They arrived at the crossing of the Santa Fe Trail over Pawnee Fork +without special adventure, but there they had the usual tussle with +the savages, and Hobbs killed his first Indian. Two of the traders +were pierced with arrows, but not seriously hurt, and the Pawnees +--the tribe which had attacked the outfit--were driven away discomfited, +not having been successful in stampeding a single animal. + +When the party reached the Caches, on the Upper Arkansas, a smoke +rising on the distant horizon, beyond the sand hills south of the +river, made them proceed cautiously; for to the old plainsmen, that +far-off wreath indicated either the presence of the savages, or a +signal to others at a greater distance of the approach of the trappers. + +The next morning, nothing having occurred to delay the march, buffalo +began to appear, and Hobbs killed three of them. A cow, which he +had wounded, ran across the Trail in front of the train, and Hobbs +dashed after her, wounding her with his pistol, and then she started +to swim the river. Hobbs, mad at the jeers which greeted him from +the men at his missing the animal, started for the last wagon, +in which was his rifle, determined to kill the brute that had +enraged him. As he was riding along rapidly, Bent cried out to him,-- + +"Don't try to follow that cow; she is going straight for that smoke, +and it means Injuns, and no good in 'em either." + +"But I'll get her," answered Hobbs, and he called to his closest +comrade, John Baptiste, a boy of about his own age, to go and get +his pack-mule and come along. "All right," responded John; and +together the two inexperienced youngsters crossed the river against +the protests of the veteran leader of the party. + +After a chase of about three miles, the boys came up with the cow, +but she turned and showed fight. Finally Hobbs, by riding around her, +got in a good shot, which killed her. Jumping off their animals, +both boys busied themselves in cutting out the choice pieces for +their supper, packed them on the mule, and started back for the train. +But it had suddenly become very dark, and they were in doubt as to +the direction of the Trail. + +Soon night came on so rapidly that neither could they see their own +tracks by which they had come, nor the thin fringe of cottonwoods +that lined the bank of the stream. Then they disagreed as to which +was the right way. John succeeded in persuading Hobbs that he was +correct, and the latter gave in, very much against his own belief +on the subject. + +They travelled all night, and when morning came, were bewilderingly +lost. Then Hobbs resolved to retrace the tracks by which, now that +the sun was up, he saw that they had been going south, right away +from the Arkansas. Suddenly an immense herd of buffalo, containing +at least two thousand, dashed by the boys, filling the air with the +dust raised by their clattering hoofs, and right behind them rode +a hundred Indians, shooting at the stampeded animals with their arrows. + +"Get into that ravine!" shouted Hobbs to his companion. "Throw away +that meat, and run for your life!" + +It was too late; just as they arrived at the brink of the hollow, +they looked back, and close behind them were a dozen Comanches. + +The savages rode up, and one of the party said in very good English, +"How d' do?" + +"How d' do?" Hobbs replied, thinking it would be better to be as +polite as the Indian, though the state of the latter's health just +then was a matter of small concern. + +"Texas?" inquired the Indian. The Comanches had good reasons to +hate the citizens of that country, and it was a lucky thing for +Hobbs that he had heard of their prejudice from the trappers, and +possessed presence of mind to remember it. He replied promptly: +"No, friendly; going to establish a trading-post for the Comanches." + +"Friendly? Better go with us, though. Got any tobacco?" + +Hobbs had some of the desired article, and he was not long in handing +it over to his newly found friend. + +Both of the boys were escorted to the temporary camp of the savages, +but the original number of their captors was increased to over a +thousand before they arrived there. They were supplied with some +dried buffalo-meat, and then taken to the lodge of Old Wolf, the +head chief of the tribe. + +A council was called immediately to consider what disposition should +be made of them, but nothing was decided upon, and the assembly of +warriors adjourned until morning. Hobbs told me that it was because +Old Wolf had imbibed too much brandy, a bottle of which Baptiste had +brought with him from the train, and which the thirsty warrior saw +suspended from his saddle-bow as they rode up to the chief's lodge; +the aged rascal got beastly drunk. + +About noon of the next day, after the dispersion of the council, +the boys were informed that if they were not Texans, would behave +themselves, and not attempt to run away, they might stay with the +Indians, who would not kill them; but a string of dried scalps was +pointed out, hanging on a lodge pole, of some Mexicans whom they +had captured and put to herding their ponies, and who had tried to +get away. They succeeded in making a few miles; the Indians chased +them, after deciding in council, that, if caught, only their scalps +were to be brought back. The moral of this was that the same fate +awaited the boys if they followed the example of the foolish Mexicans. + +Hobbs had excellent sense and judgment, and he knew that it would +be the height of folly for him and Baptiste, mere boys, to try and +reach either Bent's Fort or the Missouri River, not having the +slightest knowledge of where they were situated. + +Hobbs grew to be a great favourite with the Comanches; was given +the daughter of Old Wolf in marriage, became a great chief, fought +many hard battles with his savage companions, and at last, four years +after, was redeemed by Colonel Bent, who paid Old Wolf a small +ransom for him at the Fort, where the Indians had come to trade. +Baptiste, whom the Indians never took a great fancy to, because he +did not develop into a great warrior, was also ransomed by Bent, +his price being only an antiquated mule. + +At Bent's Fort Hobbs went out trapping under the leadership of Kit +Carson, and they became lifelong friends. In a short time Hobbs +earned the reputation of being an excellent mountaineer, trapper, +and as an Indian fighter he was second to none, his education among +the Comanches having trained him in all the strategy of the savages. + +After going through the Mexican War with an excellent record, Hobbs +wandered about the country, now engaged in mining in old Mexico, then +fighting the Apaches under the orders of the governor of Chihuahua, +and at the end of the campaign going back to the Pacific coast, +where he entered into new pursuits. Sometimes he was rich, then as +poor as one can imagine. He returned to old Mexico in time to become +an active partisan in the revolt which overthrew the short-lived +dynasty of Maximilian, and was present at the execution of that +unfortunate prince. Finally he retired to the home of his childhood +in the States, where he died a few months ago, full of years and honours. + +William F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill," is one of the famous plainsmen, +of later days, however, than Carson, Bridger, John Smith, Maxwell, +and others whom I have mentioned. The mantle of Kit Carson, perhaps, +fits more perfectly the shoulders of Cody than those of any other +of the great frontiersman's successors, and he has had some experiences +that surpassed anything which fell to their lot. + +He was born in Iowa, in 1845, and when barely seven years old his +father emigrated to Kansas, then far remote from civilization. + +Thirty-six years ago, he was employed as guide and scout in an +expedition against the Kiowas and Comanches, and his line of duty +took him along the Santa Fe Trail all one summer when not out as +a scout, carrying despatches between Fort Lyon and Fort Larned, +the most important military posts on the great highway as well as +to far-off Fort Leavenworth on the Missouri River, the headquarters +of the department. Fort Larned was the general rendezvous of all +the scouts on the Kansas and Colorado plains, the chief of whom was +a veteran interpreter and guide, named Dick Curtis. + +When Cody first reported there for his responsible duty, a large camp +of the Kiowas and Comanches was established within sight of the fort, +whose warriors had not as yet put on their war-paint, but were +evidently restless and discontented under the restraint of their +chiefs. Soon those leading men, Satanta, Lone Wolf, Satank, and +others of lesser note, grew rather impudent and haughty in their +deportment, and they were watched with much concern. The post was +garrisoned by only two companies of infantry and one of cavalry. + +General Hazen, afterward chief of the signal service in Washington, +was at Fort Larned at the time, endeavouring to patch up a peace with +the savages, who seemed determined to break out. Cody was special +scout to the general, and one morning he was ordered to accompany him +as far as Fort Zarah, on the Arkansas, near the mouth of Walnut Creek, +in what is now Barton County, Kansas, the general intending to go +on to Fort Harker, on the Smoky Hill. In making these trips of +inspection, with incidental collateral duties, the general usually +travelled in an ambulance, but on this journey he rode in a six-mule +army-wagon, escorted by a detachment of a score of infantry. It was +a warm August day, and an early start was made, which enabled them +to reach Fort Zarah, over thirty miles distant, by noon. After dinner, +the general proposed to go on to Fort Harker, forty-one miles away, +without any escort, leaving orders for Cody to return to Fort Larned +the next day, with the soldiers. But Cody, ever impatient of delay +when there was work to do, notified the sergeant in charge of the +men that he was going back that very afternoon. I tell the story +of his trip as he has often told it to me, and as he has written +it in his autobiography. + +"I accordingly saddled up my mule and set out for Fort Larned. +I proceeded on uninterruptedly until I got about halfway between +the two posts, when, at Pawnee Rock, I was suddenly jumped by about +forty Indians, who came dashing up to me, extending their hands +and saying, 'How! How!' They were some of the Indians who had been +hanging around Fort Larned in the morning. I saw they had on their +war-paint, and were evidently now out on the war-path. + +"My first impulse was to shake hands with them, as they seemed so +desirous of it. I accordingly reached out my hand to one of them, +who grasped it with a tight grip, and jerked me violently forward; +then pulled my mule by the bridle, and in a moment I was completely +surrounded. Before I could do anything at all, they had seized my +revolvers from the holsters, and I received a blow on the head from +a tomahawk which nearly rendered me senseless. My gun, which was +lying across the saddle, was snatched from its place, and finally +the Indian who had hold of the bridle started off toward the Arkansas +River, leading the mule, which was being lashed by the other Indians, +who were following. The savages were all singing, yelling, and +whooping, as only Indians can do, when they are having their little +game all their own way. While looking toward the river, I saw on +the opposite side an immense village moving along the bank, and then +I became convinced that the Indians had left the post and were now +starting out on the war-path. My captors crossed the stream with me, +and as we waded through the shallow water they continued to lash the +mule and myself. Finally they brought me before an important-looking +body of Indians, who proved to be the chiefs and principal warriors. +I soon recognized old Satanta among them, as well as others whom +I knew, and supposed it was all over with me. + +"The Indians were jabbering away so rapidly among themselves that +I could not understand what they were saying. Satanta at last asked +me where I had been. As good luck would have it, a happy thought +struck me. I told him I had been after a herd of cattle, or +'whoa-haws,' as they called them. It so happened that the Indians +had been out of meat for several weeks, as the large herd of cattle +which had been promised them had not yet arrived, although they +expected them. + +"The moment I mentioned that I had been searching for 'whoa-haws,' +old Satanta began questioning me in a very eager manner. He asked me +where the cattle were, and I replied that they were back a few miles, +and that I had been sent by General Hazen to inform him that the +cattle were coming, and that they were intended for his people. +This seemed to please the old rascal, who also wanted to know if there +were any soldiers with the herd, and my reply was that there were. +Thereupon the chiefs held a consultation, and presently Satanta asked +me if General Hazen had really said that they should have the cattle. +I replied in the affirmative, and added that I had been directed to +bring the cattle to them. I followed this up with a very dignified +inquiry, asking why his young men had treated me so. The old wretch +intimated that it was only a 'freak of the boys'; that the young men +wanted to see if I was brave; in fact, they had only meant to test me, +and the whole thing was a joke. + +"The veteran liar was now beating me at my own game of lying, but +I was very glad, as it was in my favour. I did not let him suspect +that I doubted his veracity, but I remarked that it was a rough way +to treat friends. He immediately ordered his young men to give +back my arms, and scolded them for what they had done. Of course, +the sly old dog was now playing it very fine, as he was anxious +to get possession of the cattle, with which he believed there was +a 'heap' of soldiers coming. He had concluded it was not best to +fight the soldiers if he could get the cattle peaceably. + +"Another council was held by the chiefs, and in a few minutes old +Satanta came and asked me if I would go to the river and bring the +cattle down to the opposite side, so that they could get them. +I replied, 'Of course; that's my instruction from General Hazen.' + +"Satanta said I must not feel angry at his young men, for they had +only been acting in fun. He then inquired if I wished any of his men +to accompany me to the cattle herd. I replied that it would be better +for me to go alone, and then the soldiers could keep right on to +Fort Larned, while I could drive the herd down on the bottom. Then +wheeling my mule around, I was soon recrossing the river, leaving old +Satanta in the firm belief that I had told him a straight story, and +that I was going for the cattle which existed only in my imagination. + +"I hardly knew what to do, but thought that if I could get the river +between the Indians and myself, I would have a good three-quarters of +a mile the start of them, and could then make a run for Fort Larned, +as my mule was a good one. + +"Thus far my cattle story had panned out all right; but just as I +reached the opposite bank of the river, I looked behind me and saw +that ten or fifteen Indians, who had begun to suspect something +crooked, were following me. The moment that my mule secured a good +foothold on the bank, I urged him into a gentle lope toward the place +where, according to my statement, the cattle were to be brought. +Upon reaching a little ridge and riding down the other side out of +view, I turned my mule and headed him westward for Fort Larned. +I let him out for all that he was worth, and when I came out on a +little rise of ground, I looked back and saw the Indian village in +plain sight. My pursuers were now on the ridge which I had passed +over, and were looking for me in every direction. + +"Presently they spied me, and seeing that I was running away, they +struck out in swift pursuit, and in a few minutes it became painfully +evident they were gaining on me. They kept up the chase as far as +Ash Creek, six miles from Fort Larned. I still led them half a mile, +as their horses had not gained much during the last half of the race. +My mule seemed to have gotten his second wind, and as I was on the +old road, I played the spurs and whip on him without much cessation; +the Indians likewise urged their steeds to the utmost. + +"Finally, upon reaching the dividing ridge between Ash Creek and +Pawnee Fork, I saw Fort Larned only four miles away. It was now +sundown, and I heard the evening gun. The troops of the small +garrison little dreamed there was a man flying for his life and +trying to reach the post. The Indians were once more gaining on me, +and when I crossed the Pawnee Fork two miles from the post, two or +three of them were only a quarter of a mile behind me. Just as I +gained the opposite bank of the stream, I was overjoyed to see some +soldiers in a government wagon only a short distance off. I yelled +at the top of my voice, and riding up to them, told them that the +Indians were after me. + +"'Denver Jim,' a well-known scout, asked me how many there were, and +upon my informing him that there were about a dozen, he said: 'Let's +drive the wagon into the trees, and we'll lay for 'em.' The team +was hurriedly driven among the trees and low box-elder bushes, and +there secreted. + +"We did not have to wait long for the Indians, who came dashing up, +lashing their ponies, which were panting and blowing. We let two +of them pass by, but we opened a lively fire on the next three or +four, killing two of them at the first crack. The others following +discovered that they had run into an ambush, and whirling off into +the brush, they turned and ran back in the direction whence they +had come. The two who had passed by heard the firing and made their +escape. We scalped the two that we had killed, and appropriated +their arms and equipments; then, catching their ponies, we made our +way into the Post." + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. +MAXWELL'S RANCH. + + + +One of the most interesting and picturesque regions of all New Mexico +is the immense tract of nearly two million acres known as Maxwell's +Ranch, through which the Old Trail ran, and the title to which was +some years since determined by the Supreme Court of the United States +in favour of an alien company.[59] Dead long ago, Maxwell belonged +to a generation and a class almost completely extinct, and the like +of which will, in all probability, never be seen again; for there +is no more frontier to develop them. + +Several years prior to the acquisition of the territory by the +United States, the immense tract comprised in the geographical limits +of the ranch was granted to Carlos Beaubien and Guadalupe Miranda, +both citizens of the province of New Mexico, and agents of the +American Fur Company. Attached to the company as an employer, +a trapper, and hunter, was Lucien B. Maxwell, an Illinoisan by birth, +who married a daughter of Beaubien. After the death of the latter +Maxwell purchased all the interest of the joint proprietor, Miranda, +and that of the heirs of Beaubien, thus at once becoming the largest +landowner in the United States. + +At the zenith of his influence and wealth, during the War of the +Rebellion, when New Mexico was isolated and almost independent of +care or thought by the government at Washington, he lived in a +sort of barbaric splendour, akin to that of the nobles of England +at the time of the Norman conquest. + +The thousands of arable acres comprised in the many fertile valleys +of his immense estate were farmed in a primitive, feudal sort of way, +by native Mexicans principally, under the system of peonage then +existing in the Territory. He employed about five hundred men, and +they were as much his thralls as were Gurth and Wamba of Cedric of +Rotherwood, only they wore no engraved collars around their necks +bearing their names and that of their master. Maxwell was not a +hard governor, and his people really loved him, as he was ever their +friend and adviser. + +His house was a palace when compared with the prevailing style of +architecture in that country, and cost an immense sum of money. +It was large and roomy, purely American in its construction, but the +manner of conducting it was strictly Mexican, varying between the +customs of the higher and lower classes of that curious people. + +Some of its apartments were elaborately furnished, others devoid of +everything except a table for card-playing and a game's complement +of chairs. The principal room, an extended rectangular affair, +which might properly have been termed the Baronial Hall, was almost +bare except for a few chairs, a couple of tables, and an antiquated +bureau. There Maxwell received his friends, transacted business +with his vassals, and held high carnival at times. + +I have slept on its hardwood floor, rolled up in my blanket, with +the mighty men of the Ute nation lying heads and points all around me, +as close as they could possibly crowd, after a day's fatiguing hunt +in the mountains. I have sat there in the long winter evenings, +when the great room was lighted only by the cheerful blaze of the +crackling logs roaring up the huge throats of its two fireplaces +built diagonally across opposite corners, watching Maxwell, Kit Carson, +and half a dozen chiefs silently interchange ideas in the wonderful +sign language, until the glimmer of Aurora announced the advent of +another day. But not a sound had been uttered during the protracted +hours, save an occasional grunt of satisfaction on the part of the +Indians, or when we white men exchanged a sentence. + +Frequently Maxwell and Carson would play the game of seven-up for +hours at a time, seated at one of the tables. Kit was usually the +victor, for he was the greatest expert in that old and popular +pastime I have ever met. Maxwell was an inveterate gambler, but +not by any means in a professional sense; he indulged in the hazard +of the cards simply for the amusement it afforded him in his rough +life of ease, and he could very well afford the losses which the +pleasure sometimes entailed. His special penchant, however, was +betting on a horse race, and his own stud comprised some of the +fleetest animals in the Territory. Had he lived in England he might +have ruled the turf, but many jobs were put up on him by unscrupulous +jockeys, by which he was outrageously defrauded of immense sums. + +He was fond of cards, as I have said, both of the purely American +game of poker, and also of old sledge, but rarely played except with +personal friends, and never without stakes. He always exacted the +last cent he had won, though the next morning, perhaps, he would +present or loan his unsuccessful opponent of the night before five +hundred or a thousand dollars, if he needed it; an immensely greater +sum, in all probability, than had been gained in the game. + +The kitchen and dining-rooms of his princely establishment were +detached from the main residence. There was one of the latter for +the male portion of his retinue and guests of that sex, and another +for the female, as, in accordance with the severe, and to us strange, +Mexican etiquette, men rarely saw a woman about the premises, though +there were many. Only the quick rustle of a skirt, or a hurried view +of a reboso, as its wearer flashed for an instant before some window +or half-open door, told of their presence. + +The greater portion of his table-service was solid silver, and at +his hospitable board there were rarely any vacant chairs. Covers +were laid daily for about thirty persons; for he had always many +guests, invited or forced upon him in consequence of his proverbial +munificence, or by the peculiar location of his manor-house which +stood upon a magnificently shaded plateau at the foot of mighty +mountains, a short distance from a ford on the Old Trail. As there +were no bridges over the uncertain streams of the great overland +route in those days, the ponderous Concord coaches, with their +ever-full burden of passengers, were frequently water-bound, and +Maxwell's the only asylum from the storm and flood; consequently +he entertained many. + +At all times, and in all seasons, the group of buildings, houses, +stables, mill, store, and their surrounding grounds, were a constant +resort and loafing-place of Indians. From the superannuated chiefs, +who revelled lazily during the sunny hours in the shady peacefulness +of the broad porches; the young men of the tribe, who gazed with +covetous eyes upon the sleek-skinned, blooded colts sporting in the +spacious corrals; the squaws, fascinated by the gaudy calicoes, +bright ribbons, and glittering strings of beads on the counters +or shelves of the large store, to the half-naked, chubby little +pappooses around the kitchen doors, waiting with expectant mouths +for some delicious morsel of refuse to be thrown to them--all assumed, +in bearing and manner, a vested right of proprietorship in their +agreeable environment. + +To this motley group, always under his feet, as it were, Maxwell was +ever passively gracious, although they were battening in idleness +on his prodigal bounty from year to year. + +His retinue of servants, necessarily large, was made up of a +heterogeneous mixture of Indians, Mexicans, and half-breeds. +The kitchens were presided over by dusky maidens under the tutelage +of experienced old crones, and its precincts were sacred to them; +but the dining-rooms were forbidden to women during the hours of +meals, which were served by boys. + +Maxwell was rarely, as far as my observation extended, without a +large amount of money in his possession. He had no safe, however, +his only place of temporary deposit for the accumulated cash being +the bottom drawer of the old bureau in the large room to which I +have referred, which was the most antiquated concern of common pine +imaginable. There were only two other drawers in this old-fashioned +piece of furniture, and neither of them possessed a lock. The third, +or lower, the one that contained the money, did, but it was absolutely +worthless, being one of the cheapest pattern and affording not the +slightest security; besides, the drawers above it could be pulled out, +exposing the treasure immediately beneath to the cupidity of any one. + +I have frequently seen as much as thirty thousand dollars--gold, +silver, greenbacks, and government checks--at one time in that novel +depository. Occasionally these large sums remained there for several +days, yet there was never any extra precaution taken to prevent its +abstraction; doors were always open and the room free of access to +every one, as usual. + +I once suggested to Maxwell the propriety of purchasing a safe for +the better security of his money, but he only smiled, while a strange, +resolute look flashed from his dark eyes, as he said: "God help the +man who attempted to rob me and I knew him!" + +The sources of his wealth were his cattle, sheep, and the products +of his area of cultivated acres--barley, oats, and corn principally-- +which he disposed of to the quartermaster and commissary departments +of the army, in the large military district of New Mexico. +His wool-clip must have been enormous, too; but I doubt whether he +could have told the number of animals that furnished it or the +aggregate of his vast herds. He had a thousand horses, ten thousand +cattle, and forty thousand sheep at the time I knew him well, +according to the best estimates of his Mexican relatives. + +He also possessed a large and perfectly appointed gristmill, which +was a great source of revenue, for wheat was one of the staple crops +of his many farms. + +Maxwell was fond of travelling all over the Territory, his equipages +comprising everything in the shape of a vehicle, through all their +varieties, from the most plainly constructed buckboard to the +lumbering, but comfortable and expensive, Concord coach, mounted on +thorough braces instead of springs, and drawn by four or six horses. +He was perfectly reckless in his driving, dashing through streams, +over irrigating ditches, stones, and stumps like a veritable Jehu, +regardless of consequences, but, as is usually the fortune of such +precipitate horsemen, rarely coming to grief. + +The headquarters of the Ute agency were established at Maxwell's Ranch +in early days, and the government detailed a company of cavalry to +camp there, more, however, to impress the plains tribes who roamed +along the Old Trail east of the Raton Range, than for any effect on +the Utes, whom Maxwell could always control, and who regarded him +as a father. + +On the 4th of July, 1867, Maxwell, who owned an antiquated and rusty +six-pound field howitzer, suggested to the captain of the troop +stationed there the propriety of celebrating the day. So the old +piece was dragged from its place under a clump of elms, where it had +been hidden in the grass and weeds ever since the Mexican War probably, +and brought near the house. The captain and Maxwell acted the rôle +of gunners, the former at the muzzle, the latter at the breech; +the discharge was premature, blowing out the captain's eye and taking +off his arm, while Maxwell escaped with a shattered thumb. As soon +as the accident occurred, a sergeant was despatched to Fort Union on +one of the fastest horses on the ranch, the faithful animal falling +dead the moment he stopped in front of the surgeon's quarters, having +made the journey of fifty-five miles in little more than four hours. + +The surgeon left the post immediately, arriving at Maxwell's late that +night, but in time to save the officer's life, after which he dressed +Maxwell's apparently inconsiderable wound. In a few days, however, +the thumb grew angry-looking; it would not yield to the doctor's +careful treatment, so he reluctantly decided that amputation was +necessary. After an operation was determined upon, I prevailed upon +Maxwell to come to the fort and remain with me, inviting Kit Carson +at the same time, that he might assist in catering to the amusement +of my suffering guest. Maxwell and Carson arrived at my quarters +late in the day, after a tedious ride in the big coach, and the +surgeon, in order to allow a prolonged rest on account of Maxwell's +feverish condition, postponed the operation until the following evening. + +The next night, as soon as it grew dark--we waited for coolness, +as the days were excessively hot--the necessary preliminaries were +arranged, and when everything was ready the surgeon commenced. +Maxwell declined the anaesthetic prepared for him, and sitting in a +common office chair put out his hand, while Carson and myself stood +on opposite sides, each holding an ordinary kerosene lamp. In a few +seconds the operation was concluded, and after the silver-wire +ligatures were twisted in their places, I offered Maxwell, who had +not as yet permitted a single sigh to escape his lips, half a +tumblerful of whiskey; but before I had fairly put it to his mouth, +he fell over, having fainted dead away, while great beads of +perspiration stood on his forehead, indicative of the pain he had +suffered, as the amputation of the thumb, the surgeon told us then, +was as bad as that of a leg. + +He returned to his ranch as soon as the surgeon pronounced him well, +and Carson to his home in Taos. I saw the latter but once more at +Maxwell's; but he was en route to visit me at Fort Harker, in Kansas, +when he was taken ill at Fort Lyon, where he died. + + A boy's will is the wind's will, + And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts. + +How true it now seems to me, as the recollections of my boyish days, +when I read of the exploits of Kit Carson, crowd upon my memory! +I firmly believed him to be at least ten feet tall, carrying a rifle +so heavy that, like Bruce's sword, it required two men to lift it. +I imagined he drank out of nothing smaller than a river, and picked +the carcass of a whole buffalo as easily as a lady does the wing of +a quail. Ten years later I made the acquaintance of the foremost +frontiersman, and found him a delicate, reticent, under-sized, +wiry man, as perfectly the opposite of the type my childish brain +had created as it is possible to conceive. + +At Fort Union our mail arrived every morning by coach over the Trail, +generally pulling up at the sutler's store, whose proprietor was +postmaster, about daylight. While Maxwell and Kit were my guests, +I sauntered down after breakfast one morning to get my mail, and +while waiting for the letters to be distributed, happened to glance +at some papers lying on the counter, among which I saw a new periodical +--the _Day's Doings_, I think it was--that had a full-page illustration +of a scene in a forest. In the foreground stood a gigantic figure +dressed in the traditional buckskin; on one arm rested an immense +rifle; his other arm was around the waist of the conventional female +of such sensational journals, while in front, lying prone upon the +ground, were half a dozen Indians, evidently slain by the singular +hero in defending the impossibly attired female. The legend related +how all this had been effected by the famous Kit Carson. I purchased +the paper, returned with it to my room, and after showing it to +several officers who had called upon Maxwell, I handed it to Kit. +He wiped his spectacles, studied the picture intently for a few +seconds, turned round, and said: "Gentlemen, that thar may be true, +but I hain't got no recollection of it." + +I passed a delightful two weeks with Maxwell, late in the summer of +1867, at the time that the excitement over the discovery of gold on +his ranch had just commenced, and adventurers were beginning to +congregate in the hills and gulches from everywhere. The discovery +of the precious metal on his estate was the first cause of his +financial embarrassment. It was the ruin also of many other prominent +men in New Mexico, who expended their entire fortune in the construction +of an immense ditch, forty miles in length--from the Little Canadian +or Red River--to supply the placer diggings in the Moreno valley with +water, when the melted snow of Old Baldy range had exhausted itself +in the late summer. The scheme was a stupendous failure; its ruins +may be seen to-day in the deserted valleys, a monument to man's +engineering skill, but the wreck of his hopes. + +For some years previous to the discovery of gold in the mountains and +gulches of Maxwell's Ranch, it was known that copper existed in the +region; several shafts had been sunk and tunnels driven in various +places, and gold had been found from time to time, but was kept a +secret for many months. Its presence was at last revealed to Maxwell +by a party of his own miners, who were boring into the heart of +Old Baldy for a copper lead that had cropped out and was then lost. + +Of course, to keep the knowledge of the discovery of gold from the +world is an impossibility; such was the case in this instance, and +soon commenced that squatter immigration out of which, after the +ranch was sold and Maxwell died, grew that litigation which has +resulted in favour of the company who purchased from or through the +first owners after Maxwell's death. + +He was a representative man of the border of the same class as his +compeers--"wild-civilized men," to borrow an expressive term from +John Burroughs--of strong local attachments, and overflowing with the +milk of human kindness. To such as he there was an unconquerable +infatuation in life on the remote plains and in the solitude of the +mountains. There was never anything of the desperado in their +character, while the adventurers who at times have made the far West +infamous, since the advent of the railroad, were bad men originally. + +Occasionally such men turn up everywhere, and become a terror to +the community, but they are always wound up sooner or later; they +die with their boots on; Western graveyards are full of them. + +Maxwell, under contract with the Interior Department, furnished +live beeves to the Ute nation, the issue of which was made weekly +from his own vast herds. The cattle, as wild as those from the +Texas prairies, were driven by his herders into an immense enclosed +field, and there turned loose to be slaughtered by the savages. + +Once when at the ranch I told Maxwell I should like to have a horse +to witness the novel sight. He immediately ordered a Mexican groom +to procure one; but I did not see the peculiar smile that lighted up +his face, as he whispered something to the man which I did not catch. +Presently the groom returned leading a magnificent gray, which I +mounted, Maxwell suggesting that I should ride down to the large +field and wait there until the herd arrived. I entered the great +corral, patting my horse on the neck now and then, to make him +familiar with my touch, and attempted to converse with some of the +chiefs, who were dressed in their best, painted as if for the +war-path, gaily bedecked with feathers and armed with rifles and +gaudily appointed bows and arrows; but I did not succeed very well +in drawing them from their normal reticence. The squaws, a hundred +of them, were sitting on the ground, their knives in hand ready for +the labour which is the fate of their sex in all savage tribes, +while their lords' portion of the impending business was to end with +the more manly efforts of the chase. + +Suddenly a great cloud of dust rose on the trail from the mountains, +and on came the maddened animals, fairly shaking the earth with +their mighty tread. As soon as the gate was closed behind them, +and uttering a characteristic yell that was blood-curdling in its +ferocity, the Indians charged upon the now doubly frightened herd, +and commenced to discharge their rifles, regardless of the presence +of any one but themselves. My horse became paralyzed for an instant +and stood poised on his hind legs, like the steed represented in +that old lithographic print of Napoleon crossing the Alps; then taking +the bit in his teeth, he rushed aimlessly into the midst of the +flying herd, while the bullets from the guns of the excited savages +rained around my head. I had always boasted of my equestrian +accomplishments--I was never thrown but once in my life, and that was +years afterward--but in this instance it taxed all my powers to keep +my seat. In less than twenty minutes the last beef had fallen; and +the warriors, inflated with the pride of their achievement, rode +silently out of the field, leaving the squaws to cut up and carry +away the meat to their lodges, more than three miles distant, which +they soon accomplished, to the last quivering morsel. + +As I rode leisurely back to the house, I saw Maxwell and Kit standing +on the broad porch, their sides actually shaking with laughter at +my discomfiture, they having been watching me from the very moment +the herd entered the corral. It appeared that the horse Maxwell +ordered the groom to bring me was a recent importation from St. Louis, +had never before seen an Indian, and was as unused to the prairies +and mountains as a street-car mule. Kit said that my mount reminded +him of one that his antagonist in a duel rode a great many years ago +when he was young. If the animal had not been such "a fourth-of-July" +brute, his opponent would in all probability have finished him, as he +was a splendid shot; but Kit fortunately escaped, the bullet merely +grazing him under the ear, leaving a scar which he then showed me. + +One night Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I were up in the Raton Mountains +above the Old Trail, and having lingered too long, were caught above +the clouds against our will, darkness having overtaken us before we +were ready to descend into the valley. It was dangerous to undertake +the trip over such a precipitous and rocky trail, so we were compelled +to make the best of our situation. It was awfully cold, and as we +had brought no blankets, we dared not go to sleep for fear our fire +might go out, and we should freeze. We therefore determined to make +a night of it by telling yarns, smoking our pipes, and walking around +at times. After sitting awhile, Maxwell pointed toward the Spanish +Peaks, whose snow-white tops cast a diffused light in the heavens +above them, and remarked that in the deep canyon which separates them, +he had had one of the "closest calls" of his life, willingly complying +when I asked him to tell us the story. + +"It was in 1847. I came down from Taos with a party to go to the +Cimarron crossing of the Santa Fe Trail to pick up a large herd of +horses for the United States Quartermaster's Department. We succeeded +in gathering about a hundred and started back with them, letting +them graze slowly along, as we were in no hurry. When we arrived +at the foot-hills north of Bent's Fort, we came suddenly upon the +trail of a large war-band of Utes, none of whom we saw, but from +subsequent developments the savages must have discovered us days +before we reached the mountains. I knew we were not strong enough +to cope with the whole Ute nation, and concluded the best thing for +us to do under the ticklish circumstances was to make a detour, +and put them off our trail. So we turned abruptly down the Arkansas, +intending to try and get to Taos in that direction, more than one +hundred and fifty miles around. It appeared afterward that the +Indians had been following us all the way. When we found this out, +some of the men believed they were another party, and not the same +whose trail we came upon when we turned down the river, but I always +insisted they were. When we arrived within a few days' drive of Taos, +we were ambushed in one of the narrow passes of the range, and had +the bloodiest fight with the Utes on record. There were thirteen +of us, all told, and two little children whom we were escorting to +their friends at Taos, having received them at the Cimarron crossing. + +"While we were quietly taking our breakfast one morning, and getting +ready to pull out for the day's march, perfectly unsuspicious of the +proximity of any Indians, they dashed in upon us, and in less than +a minute stampeded all our stock--loose animals as well as those we +were riding. While part of the savages were employed in running off +the animals, fifty of their most noted warriors, splendidly mounted +and horribly painted, rushed into the camp, around the fire of which +the men and the little children were peacefully sitting, and, +discharging their guns as they rode up, killed one man and wounded +another. + +"Terribly surprised as we were, it did not turn the heads of the old +mountaineers, and I immediately told them to make a break for a clump +of timber near by, and that we would fight them as long as one of us +could stand up. There we fought and fought against fearful odds, +until all were wounded except two. The little children were captured +at the beginning of the trouble and carried off at once. After a +while the savages got tired of the hard work, and, as is frequently +the case, went away of their own free will; but they left us in a +terrible plight. All were sore, stiff, and weak from their many wounds; +on foot, and without any food or ammunition to procure game with, +having exhausted our supply in the awfully unequal battle; besides, +we were miles from home, with every prospect of starving to death. + +"We could not remain where we were, so as soon as darkness came on, +we started out to walk to some settlement. We dared not show +ourselves by daylight, and all through the long hours when the sun +was up, we were obliged to hide in the brush and ravines until night +overtook us again, and we could start on our painful march. + +"We had absolutely nothing to eat, and our wounds began to fester, +so that we could hardly move at all. We should undoubtedly have +perished, if, on the third day, a band of friendly Indians of another +tribe had not gone to Taos and reported the fight to the commanding +officer of the troops there. These Indians had heard of our trouble +with the Utes, and knowing how strong they were, and our weakness, +surmised our condition, and so hastened to convey the bad news. + +"A company of dragoons was immediately sent to our rescue, under the +guidance of Dick Wooton, who was and has ever been a warm personal +friend of mine. They came upon us about forty miles from Taos, and +never were we more surprised; we had become so starved and emaciated +that we had abandoned all hope of escaping what seemed to be our +inevitable fate. + +"When the troops found us, we had only a few rags, our clothes having +been completely stripped from our bodies while struggling through +the heavy underbrush on our trail, and we were so far exhausted that +we could not stand on our feet. One more day, and we would have been +laid out. + +"The little children were, fortunately, saved from the horror of +that terrible march after the fight, as the Indians carried them to +their winter camp, where, if not absolutely happy, they were under +shelter and fed; escaping the starvation which would certainly have +been their fate if they had remained with us. They were eventually +ransomed for a cash payment by the government, and altogether had not +been very harshly treated." + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. +BENT'S FORTS. + + + +The famous Bent brothers, William, George, Robert, and Charles, were +French-Canadian hunters and trappers, and had been employed almost +from boyhood, in the early days of the border, by the American Fur +Company in the mountains of the Northwest. + +In 1826, almost immediately after the transference of the fur trade +to the valley of the Arkansas, when the commerce of the prairies +was fairly initiated, the three Bents and Ceran St. Vrain, also a +French-Canadian and trapper, settled on the Upper Arkansas, where +they erected a stockade. It was, of course, a rude affair, formed of +long stakes or pickets driven into the ground, after the Mexican +style known as jacal. The sides were then ceiled and roofed, and +it served its purpose of a trading-post. This primitive fort was +situated on the left or north bank of the river, about halfway between +Pueblo and Canyon City, those beautiful mountain towns of to-day. + +Two years afterward, in 1828, the proprietors of the primitive +stockade in the remote wilderness found it necessary to move closer +to the great hunting-grounds lower down the valley. There, about +twelve miles northeast of the now thriving town of Las Animas, +the Bents commenced the construction of a relatively large and more +imposing-looking structure than the first. The principal material +used in the new building, or rather in its walls, was adobe, or +sun-dried brick, so common even to-day in New Mexican architecture. +Four years elapsed before the new fort was completed, during which +period its owners, like other trappers, lived in tents or teepees +fashioned of buffalo-skins, after the manner of the Indians. + +When at last the new station was completed, it was named Fort William, +in honour of Colonel William Bent, who was the leader of the family +and the most active trader among the four partners in the concern. +The colonel frequently made long trips to the remote villages of the +Arapahoes, Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Comanches, which were situated far +to the south and east, on the Canadian River and its large tributaries. +His miscellaneous assortment of merchandise he transported upon +pack-mules to the Indian rendezvous, bringing back to the fort the +valuable furs he had exchanged for the goods so eagerly coveted by +the savages. It was while on one of his trading expeditions to the +Cheyenne nation that the colonel married a young squaw of that tribe, +the daughter of the principal chief. + +William Bent for his day and time was an exceptionally good man. +His integrity, his truthfulness on all occasions, and his remarkable +courage endeared him to the red and white man alike, and Fort William +prospered wonderfully under his careful and just management. Both +his brothers and St. Vrain had taken up their residence in Taos, and +upon the colonel devolved the entire charge of the busy establishment. +It soon became the most popular rendezvous of the mountaineers and +trappers, and in its immediate vicinity several tribes of Indians +took up their temporary encampment. + +In 1852 Fort William was destroyed under the following strange +circumstances: It appears that the United States desired to purchase +it. Colonel Bent had decided upon a price--sixteen thousand dollars-- +but the representatives of the War Department offered only twelve +thousand, which, of course, Bent refused. Negotiations were still +pending, when the colonel, growing tired of the red-tape and +circumlocution of the authorities, and while in a mad mood, removed +all his valuables from the structure, excepting some barrels of +gunpowder, and then deliberately set fire to the old landmark. +When the flames reached the powder, there was an explosion which +threw down portions of the walls, but did not wholly destroy them. +The remains of the once noted buildings stand to-day, melancholy +relics of a past epoch. + +In the same year the indefatigable and indomitable colonel determined +upon erecting a much more important structure. He selected a site +on the same side of the Arkansas, in the locality known as Big Timbers. +Regarding this new venture, Colonel or Judge Moore of Las Animas, +a son-in-law of William Bent, tells in a letter to the author of +the history of Colorado the following facts:-- + + Leaving ten men in camp to get out stone for the new post, + Colonel Bent took a part of his outfit and went to a Kiowa + village, about two hundred miles southwest, and remained + there all winter, trading with the Kiowas and Comanches. + In the spring of 1853 he returned to Big Timbers, when + the construction of the new post was begun, and the work + continued until completed in the summer of 1854; and it + was used as a trading-post until the owner leased it to + the government in the autumn of 1859. Colonel Sedgwick had + been sent out to fight the Kiowas that year, and in the fall + a large quantity of commissary stores had been sent him. + Colonel Bent then moved up the river to a point just above + the mouth of the Purgatoire, and built several rooms of + cottonwood pickets, and there spent the winter. In the + spring of 1860, Colonel Sedgwick began the construction of + officers' buildings, company quarters, corrals, and stables, + all of stone, and named the place Fort Wise, in honour of + Governor Wise of Virginia. In 1861 the name was changed to + Fort Lyon, in honour of General Lyon, who was killed at the + battle of Wilson Creek, Missouri. In the spring of 1866, + the Arkansas River overflowed its banks, swept up into the + fort, and, undermining the walls, rendered it untenable for + military purposes. The camp was moved to a point twenty + miles below, and the new Fort Lyon established. The old + post was repaired, and used as a stage station by Barlow, + Sanderson, and Company, who ran a mail, express, and + passenger line between Kansas City and Santa Fe. + +The contiguous region to Fort William was in the early days a famous +hunting-ground. It abounded in nearly every variety of animal +indigenous to the mountains and plains, among which were the panther +--the so-called California lion of to-day--the lynx, erroneously termed +wild cat, white wolf, prairie wolf, silver-gray fox, prairie fox, +antelope, buffalo, gray, grizzly and cinnamon bears, together with +the common brown and black species, the red deer and the black-tail, +the latter the finest venison in the world. Of birds there were +wild turkeys, quail, and grouse, besides an endless variety of the +smaller-sized families, not regarded as belonging to the domain of +game in a hunter's sense. It was a veritable paradise, too, for the +trappers. Its numerous streams and creeks were famous for beaver, +otter, and mink. + +Scarcely an acre of the surrounding area within the radius of +hundreds of miles but has been the scene of many deadly encounters +with the wily red man, stories of which are still current among the +few old mountaineers yet living. + +The fort was six hundred and fifty miles west of Fort Leavenworth, +in latitude thirty-eight degrees and two minutes north, and longitude +one hundred and three degrees and three minutes west, from Greenwich. +The exterior walls of the fort, whose figure was that of a parallelogram, +were fifteen feet high and four feet thick. It was a hundred and +thirty-five feet wide and divided into various compartments. On the +northwest and southeast corners were hexagonal bastions, in which +were mounted a number of cannon. The walls of the building served +as the walls of the rooms, all of which faced inwards on a plaza, +after the general style of Mexican architecture. The roofs of the +rooms were made of poles, on which was a heavy layer of dirt, as in +the houses of native Mexicans to-day. The fort possessed a billiard +table, that visitors might amuse themselves, and in the office was +a small telescope with a fair range of seven miles. + +The occupants of the far-away establishment, in its palmy days +(for years it was the only building between Council Grove and the +mountains), were traders, Indians, hunters, and French trappers, +who were the employees of the great fur companies. Many of the latter +had Indian wives. Later, after a stage line had been put in operation +across the plains to Santa Fe, the fort was relegated to a mere +station for the overland route, and with the march of civilization +in its course westward, the trappers, hunters, and traders vanished +from the once famous rendezvous. + +The walls were loopholed for musketry, and the entrance to the plaza, +or corral, was guarded by large wooden gates. During the war with +Mexico, the fort was headquarters for the commissary department, +and many supplies were stored there, though the troops camped below +on the beautiful river-bottom. In the centre of the corral, in the +early days when the place was a rendezvous of the trappers, a large +buffalo-robe press was erected. When the writer first saw the famous +fort, now over a third of a century ago, one of the cannon, that +burst in firing a salute to General Kearney, could be seen half +buried in the dirt of the plaza. + +By barometrical measurements taken by the engineer officers of the +army at different times, the height of Bent's Fort above the ocean +level is approximately eight thousand nine hundred and fifty-eight +feet, and the fall of the Arkansas River from the fort to the great +bend of that stream, about three hundred and eleven miles east, +is seven feet and four-tenths per mile. + +It was in a relatively fair state of preservation thirty-three years +ago, but now not a vestige of it remains, excepting perhaps a mound +of dirt, the disintegration of the mud bricks of which the historical +structure was built. + +The Indians whose villages were located a few miles below the fort, +or at least the chief men of the various tribes, passed much of their +time within the shelter of the famous structure. They were bountifully +fed, and everything they needed furnished them. This was purely from +policy, however; for if their wishes were not gratified, their +hunters would not bring in their furs to trade. The principal chiefs +never failed to be present when a meal was announced as ready, and +however scarce provisions might be, the Indians must be fed. + +The first farm in the fertile and now valuable lands of the valley of +the Rio de las Animas[60] was opened by the Bents. The area selected +for cultivation was in the beautiful bottom between the fort and the +ford, a strip about a mile in length, and from one hundred and fifty +to six hundred feet in width. Nothing could be grown without irrigation, +and to that end an acequia, as the Mexicans call the ditch through +which the water flows, was constructed, and a crop put in. Before +the enterprising projectors of the scheme could reap a harvest, +the hostile savages dashed in and destroyed everything. + +Uncle John Smith was one of the principal traders back in the '30's, +and he was very successful, perhaps because he was undoubtedly the +most perfect master of the Cheyenne language at that time in the +whole mountain region. + +Among those who frequently came to the fort were Kit Carson, +L. B. Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, Baptiste Brown, Jim Bridger, +Old Bill Williams, James Beckwourth, Shawnee Spiebuck, Shawnee Jake +--the latter two, noted Indian trappers--besides a host of others. + +The majority of the old trappers, to a stranger, until he knew their +peculiar characteristics, were seemingly of an unsociable disposition. +It was an erroneous idea, however; for they were the most genial +companions imaginable, generous to a fault, and to fall into one of +their camps was indeed a lucky thing for the lost traveller. +Everything the host had was at his guest's disposal, and though +coffee and sugar were the dearest of his luxuries, often purchased +with a whole season's trapping, the black fluid was offered with +genuine free-heartedness, and the last plug of tobacco placed at the +disposition of his chance visitor, as though it could be picked up +on the ground anywhere. + +Goods brought by the traders to the rendezvous for sale to the +trappers and hunters, although of the most inferior quality, were +sold at enormously high prices. + +Coffee, by the pint-cup, which was the usual measure for everything, +cost from a dollar and twenty cents to three dollars; tobacco a dollar +and a half a plug; alcohol from two dollars to five dollars a pint; +gunpowder one dollar and sixty cents a pint-cup, and all other +articles at proportionably exorbitant rates. + +The annual gatherings of the trappers at the rendezvous were often +the scene of bloody duels; for over their cups and cards no men were +more quarrelsome than the old-time mountaineers. Rifles at twenty +paces settled all difficulties, and, as may be imagined, the fall +of one or the other of the combatants was certain, or, as sometimes +happened, both fell at the word "Fire!" + +The trapper's visits to the Mexican settlements, or to the lodges +of a tribe of Indians, for the purpose of trading, often resulted +in his returning to his quiet camp with a woman to grace his solitary +home, the loving and lonely couple as devoted to each other in the +midst of blood-thirsty enemies, howling wolves, and panthers, as if +they were in some quiet country village. + +The easy manners of the harum-scarum, reckless trappers at the +rendezvous, and the simple, unsuspecting hearts of those nymphs of +the mountains, the squaws, caused their husbands to be very jealous +of the attentions bestowed upon them by strangers. Often serious +difficulties arose, in the course of which the poor wife received +a severe whipping with the knot of a lariat, or no very light +lodge-poling at the hands of her imperious sovereign. Sometimes +the affair ended in a more tragical way than a mere beating, not +infrequently the gallant paying the penalty of his interference with +his life. + +Garrard, a traveller on the great plains and in the Rocky Mountains +half a century ago, from whose excellent diary I have frequently +quoted, passed many days and nights at Bent's Fort fifty years ago, +and his quaint description of life there in that remote period of +the extreme frontier is very amusing. Its truth has often been +confirmed by Uncle John Smith, who was my guide and interpreter in +the Indian expedition of 1868-69, only two decades after Garrard's +experience. + +Rosalie, a half-breed French and Indian squaw, wife of the carpenter, +and Charlotte, the culinary divinity, were, as a Missouri teamster +remarked, "the only female women here." They were nightly led to +the floor to trip the light fantastic toe, and swung rudely or gently +in the mazes of the contra-dance, but such a medley of steps is +seldom seen out of the mountains--the halting, irregular march of the +war-dance, the slipping gallopade, the boisterous pitching of the +Missouri backwoodsman, and the more nice gyrations of the Frenchman; +for all, irrespective of rank, age, or colour, went pell-mell into +the excitement, in a manner that would have rendered a leveller of +aristocracies and select companies frantic with delight. And the +airs assumed by the fair ones, more particularly Charlotte, who took +pattern from life in the States, were amusing. She acted her part +to perfection; she was the centre of attraction, the belle of the +evening. She treated the suitors for the pleasure of the next set +with becoming ease and suavity of manner; she knew her worth, and +managed accordingly. When the favoured gallant stood by her side +waiting for the rudely scraped tune from a screeching fiddle, +satisfaction, joy, and triumph over his rivals were pictured on his +radiant face. + +James Hobbs, of whom I have already spoken, once gave me a graphic +description of the annual feast of the Comanches, Cheyennes, and +Arapahoes, which always took place at Big Timbers, near Fort William. + +Hobbs was married to the daughter of Old Wolf, the chief of the +Comanches, a really beautiful Indian girl, with whom he lived +faithfully many years. In the early summer of 1835, he went with his +father-in-law and the rest of the tribe to the great feast of that +season. He stated that on that occasion there were forty thousand +Indians assembled, and consequently large hunting parties were sent +out daily to procure food for such a vast host. The entertainment +was kept up for fifteen days, enlivened by horse races, foot races, +and playing ball. In these races the tribes would bet their horses +on the result, the Comanches generally winning, for they are the best +riders in the world. By the time the feast was ended, the Arapahoes +and Cheyennes usually found themselves afoot, but Old Wolf, who was a +generous fellow, always gave them back enough animals to get home with. + +The game of ball was played with crooked sticks, and is very much +like the American boys' "shinny." The participants are dressed in +a simple breech-cloth and moccasins. It is played with great +enthusiasm and affords much amusement. + +At these annual feasts a council of the great chiefs of the three +tribes is always held, and at the one during the season referred to, +Hobbs said the Cheyenne chiefs wanted Old Wolf to visit Bent's Fort, +where he had never been. Upon the arrival of the delegation there, +it was heartily welcomed by all the famous men who happened to be at +the place, among whom were Kit Carson, Old John Smith, and several +noted trappers. Whiskey occupied a prominent place in the rejoicing, +and "I found it hard work," said Hobbs, "to stand the many toasts +drank to my good health." The whole party, including Old Wolf and +his companion the Cheyenne chief, got very much elated, and every +person in the fort smelt whiskey, if they did not get their feet +tangled with it. + +About midnight a messenger came inside, reporting that a thousand +Comanche warriors were gathering around the fort. They demanded +their leaders, fearing treachery, and desired to know why their chief +had not returned. Hobbs went out and explained that he was safe; +but they insisted on seeing him, so he and Hobbs showed themselves +to the assembled Indians, and Old Wolf made a speech, telling them +that he and the Cheyenne chief were among good friends to the Indians, +and presents would be given to them the next morning. The warriors +were pacified with these assurances, though they did not leave the +vicinity of the fort. + +It was at this time that Hobbs was ransomed by Colonel Bent, who gave +Old Wolf, for him, six yards of red flannel, a pound of tobacco, and +an ounce of beads. + +The chief was taken in charge by a lieutenant, who showed him all +over the fort, letting him see the rifle port-holes, and explaining +how the place could stand a siege against a thousand Indians. Finally, +he was taken out on the parapet, where there was a six-pounder at +each angle. The old savage inquired how they could shoot such a thing, +and at Hobbs' request, a blank cartridge was put in the piece and +fired. Old Wolf sprang back in amazement, and the Indians on the +outside, under the walls, knowing nothing of what was going on, +ran away as fast as their legs could carry them, convinced that +their chief must be dead now and their own safety dependent upon +flight. Old Wolf and Hobbs sprang upon the wall and signalled and +shouted to them, and they returned, asking in great astonishment +what kind of a monstrous gun it was. + +About noon trading commenced. The Indians wished to come into the +fort, but Bent would not let any enter but the chiefs. At the back +door the colonel displayed his goods, and the Indians brought forward +their ponies, buffalo-robes, deer and other skins, which they traded +for tobacco, beads, calico, flannel, knives, spoons, whistles, +jews'-harps, etc. + +Whiskey was sold to them the first day, but as it caused several +fights among them before night, Bent stopped its sale, at Hobbs' +suggestion and with Old Wolf's consent. Indians, when they get drunk, +do not waste time by fighting with fists, like white men, but use +knives and tomahawks; so that a general scrimmage is a serious affair. +Two or three deaths resulted the first day, and there would have been +many more if the sale of whiskey had not been stopped. + +The trading continued for eight days, and Colonel Bent reaped a rich +harvest of what he could turn into gold at St. Louis. Old Wolf slept +in the fort each night except one during that time, and every time +his warriors aroused him about twelve o'clock and compelled him to +show himself on the walls to satisfy them of his safety. + +About a hundred trappers were in the employ of Bent and his partners. +Sometimes one-half of the company were off on a hunt, leaving but +a small force at the fort for its protection, but with the small +battery there its defence was considered sufficient. + +One day a trapping party, consisting of Kit Carson, "Peg-leg" Smith, +and James Hobbs, together with some Shawnee Indians, all under the +lead of Carson, started out from Bent's Fort for the Picketwire to +trap beaver. + +Grizzlies were very abundant in that region then, and one of the +party, named McIntire, having killed an elk the evening before, said +to Hobbs that they might stand a good chance to find a grizzly by +the elk he had shot but had not brought in. Hobbs said that he was +willing to go with him, but as McIntire was a very green man in the +mountains, Hobbs had some doubts of depending on him in case of an +attack by a grizzly bear. + +The two men left for the ravine in which McIntire had killed the elk +very early in the morning, taking with them tomahawks, hunting-knives, +rifles, and a good dog. On arriving at the ravine, Hobbs told +McIntire to cross over to the other side and climb the hill, but on +no account to go down into the ravine, as a grizzly is more dangerous +when he has a man on the downhill side. Hobbs then went to where he +thought the elk might be if he had died by the bank of the stream; +but as soon as he came near the water, he saw that a large grizzly +had got there before him, having scented the animal, and was already +making his breakfast. + +The bear was in thick, scrubby oak brush, and Hobbs, making his dog +lie down, crawled behind a rock to get a favourable shot at the beast. +He drew a bead on him and fired, but the bear only snarled at the +wound made by the ball and started tearing through the brush, biting +furiously at it as he went. Hobbs reloaded his rifle carefully, +and as quickly as he could, in order to get a second shot; but, +to his amazement, he saw the bear rushing down the ravine chasing +McIntire, who was only about ten feet in advance of the enraged beast, +running for his life, and making as much noise as a mad bull. He was +terribly scared, and Hobbs hastened to his rescue, first sending his +dog ahead. + +Just as the dog reached the bear, McIntire darted behind a tree and +flung his hat in the bear's face, at the same time sticking his +rifle toward him. The old grizzly seized the muzzle of the gun in +his teeth, and, as it was loaded and cocked, it either went off +accidentally or otherwise and blew the bear's head open, just as the +dog had fastened on his hindquarters. Hobbs ran to the assistance +of his comrade with all haste, but he was out of danger and had sat +down a few rods away, with his face as white as a sheet, a badly +frightened man. + +After that fearful scare, McIntire would cook or do anything, but +said he never intended to make a business of bear-hunting; he had +only wished for one adventure, and this one had satisfied him. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. +PAWNEE ROCK. + + + +That portion of the great central plains which radiates from +Pawnee Rock, including the Big Bend of the Arkansas, thirteen miles +distant, where that river makes a sudden sweep to the southeast, +and the beautiful valley of the Walnut, in all its vast area of +more than a million square acres, was from time immemorial a sort of +debatable land, occupied by none of the Indian tribes, but claimed +by all to hunt in; for it was a famous pasturage of the buffalo. + +None of the various bands had the temerity to attempt its permanent +occupancy; for whenever hostile tribes met there, which was of +frequent occurrence, in their annual hunt for their winter's supply +of meat, a bloody battle was certain to ensue. The region referred +to has been the scene of more sanguinary conflicts between the +different Indians of the plains, perhaps, than any other portion +of the continent. Particularly was it the arena of war to the death, +when the Pawnees met their hereditary enemies, the Cheyennes. + +Pawnee Rock was a spot well calculated by nature to form, as it +has done, an important rendezvous and ambuscade for the prowling +savages of the prairies, and often afforded them, especially the +once powerful and murderous Pawnees whose name it perpetuates, +a pleasant little retreat or eyrie from which to watch the passing +Santa Fe traders, and dash down upon them like hawks, to carry off +their plunder and their scalps. + +Through this once dangerous region, close to the silent Arkansas, +and running under the very shadow of the rock, the Old Trail wound +its course. Now, at this point, it is the actual road-bed of the +Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, so strangely are the past +and present transcontinental highways connected here. + +Who, among bearded and grizzled old fellows like myself, has forgotten +that most sensational of all the miserably executed illustrations +in the geographies of fifty years ago, "The Santa Fe Traders attacked +by Indians"? The picture located the scene of the fight at Pawnee +Rock, which formed a sort of nondescript shadow in the background +of a crudely drawn representation of the dangers of the Trail. + +If this once giant sentinel[61] of the plains might speak, what a +story it could tell of the events that have happened on the beautiful +prairie stretching out for miles at its feet! + +In the early fall, when the rock was wrapped in the soft amber haze +which is a distinguishing characteristic of the incomparable Indian +summer on the plains; or in the spring, when the mirage weaves its +mysterious shapes, it loomed up in the landscape as if it were a huge +mountain, and to the inexperienced eye appeared as if it were the +abrupt ending of a well-defined range. But when the frost came, +and the mists were dispelled; when the thin fringe of timber on the +Walnut, a few miles distant, had doffed its emerald mantle, and +the grass had grown yellow and rusty, then in the golden sunlight +of winter, the rock sank down to its normal proportions, and cut +the clear blue of the sky with sharply marked lines. + +In the days when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, the Pawnees +were the most formidable tribe on the eastern central plains, and +the freighters and trappers rarely escaped a skirmish with them +either at the crossing of the Walnut, Pawnee Rock, the Fork of the +Pawnee, or at Little and Big Coon creeks. To-day what is left of +the historic hill looks down only upon peaceful homes and fruitful +fields, whereas for hundreds of years it witnessed nothing but battle +and death, and almost every yard of brown sod at its base covered +a skeleton. In place of the horrid yell of the infuriated savage, +as he wrenched off the reeking scalp of his victim, the whistle of +the locomotive and the pleasant whirr of the reaping-machine is heard; +where the death-cry of the painted warrior rang mournfully over +the silent prairie, the waving grain is singing in beautiful rhythm +as it bows to the summer breeze. + +Pawnee Rock received its name in a baptism of blood, but there are +many versions as to the time and sponsors. It was there that Kit +Carson killed his first Indian, and from that fight, as he told me +himself, the broken mass of red sandstone was given its distinctive +title. + +It was late in the spring of 1826; Kit was then a mere boy, only +seventeen years old, and as green as any boy of his age who had never +been forty miles from the place where he was born. Colonel Ceran +St. Vrain, then a prominent agent of one of the great fur companies, +was fitting out an expedition destined for the far-off Rocky Mountains, +the members of which, all trappers, were to obtain the skins of the +buffalo, beaver, otter, mink, and other valuable fur-bearing animals +that then roamed in immense numbers on the vast plains or in the +hills, and were also to trade with the various tribes of Indians on +the borders of Mexico. + +Carson joined this expedition, which was composed of twenty-six +mule wagons, some loose stock, and forty-two men. The boy was hired +to help drive the extra animals, hunt game, stand guard, and to make +himself generally useful, which, of course, included fighting Indians +if any were met with on the long route. + +The expedition left Fort Osage one bright morning in May in excellent +spirits, and in a few hours turned abruptly to the west on the broad +Trail to the mountains. The great plains in those early days were +solitary and desolate beyond the power of description; the Arkansas +River sluggishly followed the tortuous windings of its treeless banks +with a placidness that was awful in its very silence; and whoso +traced the wanderings of that stream with no companion but his own +thoughts, realized in all its intensity the depth of solitude from +which Robinson Crusoe suffered on his lonely island. Illimitable as +the ocean, the weary waste stretched away until lost in the purple of +the horizon, and the mirage created weird pictures in the landscape, +distorted distances and objects which continually annoyed and deceived. +Despite its loneliness, however, there was then, and ever has been +for many men, an infatuation for those majestic prairies that once +experienced is never lost, and it came to the boyish heart of Kit, +who left them but with life, and full of years. + +There was not much variation in the eternal sameness of things during +the first two weeks, as the little train moved day after day through +the wilderness of grass, its ever-rattling wheels only intensifying +the surrounding monotony. Occasionally, however, a herd of buffalo +was discovered in the distance, their brown, shaggy sides contrasting +with the never-ending sea of verdure around them. Then young Kit, +and two or three others of the party who were detailed to supply +the teamsters and trappers with meat, would ride out after them on +the best of the extra horses which were always kept saddled and tied +together behind the last wagon for services of this kind. Kit, who +was already an excellent horseman and a splendid shot with the rifle, +would soon overtake them, and topple one after another of their huge +fat carcasses over on the prairie until half a dozen or more were +lying dead. The tender humps, tongues, and other choice portions +were then cut out and put in a wagon which had by that time reached +them from the train, and the expedition rolled on. + +So they marched for about three weeks, when they arrived at the +crossing of the Walnut, where they saw the first signs of Indians. +They had halted for that day; the mules were unharnessed, the +camp-fires lighted, and the men just about to indulge in their +refreshing coffee, when suddenly half a dozen Pawnees, mounted on +their ponies, hideously painted and uttering the most demoniacal +yells, rushed out of the tall grass on the river-bottom, where they +had been ambushed, and swinging their buffalo-robes, attempted to +stampede the herd picketed near the camp. The whole party were on +their feet in an instant with rifles in hand, and all the savages +got for their trouble were a few well-deserved shots as they hurriedly +scampered back to the river and over into the sand hills on the other +side, soon to be out of sight. + +The expedition travelled sixteen miles next day, and camped at +Pawnee Rock, where, after the experience of the evening before, +every precaution was taken to prevent a surprise by the savages. +The wagons were formed into a corral, so that the animals could be +secured in the event of a prolonged fight; the guards were drilled +by the colonel, and every man slept with his rifle for a bed-fellow, +for the old trappers knew that the Indians would never remain +satisfied with their defeat on the Walnut, but would seize the first +favourable opportunity to renew their attack. + +At dark the sentinels were placed in position, and to young Kit fell +the important post immediately in front of the south face of the +Rock, nearly two hundred yards from the corral; the others being at +prominent points on top, and on the open prairie on either side. +All who were not on duty had long since been snoring heavily, +rolled up in their blankets and buffalo-robes, when at about half-past +eleven, one of the guard gave the alarm, "Indians!" and ran the mules +that were nearest him into the corral. In a moment the whole company +turned out at the report of a rifle ringing on the clear night air, +coming from the direction of the rock. The men had gathered at +the opening to the corral, waiting for developments, when Kit came +running in, and as soon as he was near enough, the colonel asked him +whether he had seen any Indians. "Yes," Kit replied, "I killed one +of the red devils; I saw him fall!" + +The alarm proved to be false; there was no further disturbance that +night, so the party returned to their beds, and the sentinels to +their several posts, Kit of course to his place in front of the Rock. + +Early the next morning, before breakfast even, all were so anxious +to see Kit's dead Indian, that they went out en masse to where he was +still stationed, and instead of finding a painted Pawnee, as was +expected, they found the boy's riding mule dead, shot right through +the head. + +Kit felt terribly mortified over his ridiculous blunder, and it was +a long time before he heard the last of his midnight adventure and +his raid on his own mule. But he always liked to tell the "balance +of the story," as he termed it, and this is his version: "I had not +slept any the night before, for I stayed awake watching to get a +shot at the Pawnees that tried to stampede our animals, expecting +they would return; and I hadn't caught a wink all day, as I was out +buffalo hunting, so I was awfully tired and sleepy when we arrived +at Pawnee Rock that evening, and when I was posted at my place at +night, I must have gone to sleep leaning against the rocks; at any +rate, I was wide enough awake when the cry of Indians was given by +one of the guard. I had picketed my mule about twenty steps from +where I stood, and I presume he had been lying down; all I remember +is that the first thing I saw after the alarm was something rising up +out of the grass, which I thought was an Indian. I pulled the trigger; +it was a centre shot, and I don't believe the mule ever kicked after +he was hit!" + +The next morning about daylight, a band of Pawnees attacked the train +in earnest, and kept the little command busy all that day, the next +night, and until the following midnight, nearly three whole days, +the mules all the time being shut in the corral without food or water. +At midnight of the second day the colonel ordered the men to hitch up +and attempt to drive on to the crossing of Pawnee Fork, thirteen miles +distant.[62] They succeeded in getting there, fighting their way +without the loss of any of their men or animals. The Trail crossed +the creek in the shape of a horseshoe, or rather, in consequence of +the double bend of the stream as it empties into the Arkansas, the +road crossed it twice. In making this passage, dangerous on account +of its crookedness, Kit said many of the wagons were badly mashed up; +for the mules were so thirsty that their drivers could not control +them. The train was hardly strung out on the opposite bank when +the Indians poured in a volley of bullets and a shower of arrows +from both sides of the Trail; but before they could load and fire +again, a terrific charge was on them, led by Colonel St. Vrain and +Carson. It required only a few moments more to clean out the +persistent savages, and the train went on. During the whole fight +the little party lost four men killed and seven wounded, and eleven +mules killed (not counting Kit's), and twenty badly wounded. + +A great many years ago, very early in the days of the trade with +New Mexico, seven Americans were surprised by a large band of Pawnees +in the vicinity of the Rock and were compelled to retreat to it for +safety. There, without water, and with but a small quantity of +provisions, they were besieged by their blood-thirsty foes for two +days, when a party of traders coming on the Trail relieved them from +their perilous situation and the presence of their enemy. There were +several graves on its summit when I first saw Pawnee Rock; but +whether they contained the bones of savages or those of white men, +I do not know. + +Carson related to me another terrible fight that took place at the +rock, when he first became a trapper. He was not a participant, +but knew the parties well. About twenty-nine years ago, Kit, Jack +Henderson, who was agent for the Ute Indians, Lucien B. Maxwell, +General Carleton and myself were camped halfway up the rugged sides +of Old Baldy, in the Raton Range. The night was intensely cold, +although in midsummer, and we were huddled around a little fire of +pine knots, more than seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, +close to the snow limit. + +Kit, or "the General," as every one called him, was in a good humour +for talking, and we naturally took advantage of this to draw him out; +for usually he was the most reticent of men in relating his own +exploits. A casual remark made by Maxwell opened Carson's mouth, +and he said he remembered one of the "worst difficults" a man ever +got into.[63] So he made a fresh corn-shuck cigarette, and related +the following; but the names of the old trappers who were the +principals in the fight I have unfortunately forgotten. + +Two men had been trapping in the Powder River country during one +winter with unusually good luck, and they got an early start with +their furs, which they were going to take to Weston, on the Missouri, +one of the principal trading points in those days. They walked the +whole distance, driving their pack-mules before them, and experienced +no trouble until they struck the Arkansas valley at Pawnee Rock. +There they were intercepted by a war-party of about sixty Pawnees. +Both of the trappers were notoriously brave and both dead shots. +Before they arrived at the rock, to which they were finally driven, +they killed two of the Indians, and had not themselves received a +scratch. They had plenty of powder, a pouch full of balls each, +and two good rifles. They also had a couple of jack-rabbits for +food in case of a siege, and the perpendicular walls of the front +of the rock made them a natural fortification, an almost impregnable +one against Indians. + +They succeeded in securely picketing their animals at the side of +the rock, where they could protect them by their unerring rifles +from being stampeded. After the Pawnees had "treed" the two trappers +on the rock, they picked up their dead, and packed them off to their +camp at the mouth of a little ravine a short distance away. In a few +moments back they all came, mounted on fast ponies, with their +war-paint and other fixings on, ready to renew the fight. They +commenced to circle around the place, coming closer, Indian fashion, +every time, until they got within easy rifle-range, when they slung +themselves on the opposite sides of their horses, and in that position +opened fire. Their arrows fell like a hailstorm, but as good luck +would have it, none of them struck, and the balls from their rifles +were wild, as the Indians in those days were not very good shots; +the rifle was a new weapon to them. The trappers at first were +afraid the savages would surely try to kill the mules, but soon +reflected that the Indians believed they had the "dead-wood" on them, +and the mules would come handy after they had been scalped; so they +felt satisfied their animals were safe for a while anyhow. The men +were taking in all the chances, however; both kept their eyes skinned, +and whenever one of them saw a stray leg or head, he drew a bead +on it and when he pulled the trigger, its owner tumbled over with +a yell of rage from his companions. + +Whenever the savages attempted to carry off their dead,[64] the two +trappers took advantage of the opportunity, and poured in their +shots every time with telling effect. + +By this time night had fallen, and the Indians did not seem anxious +to renew the fight after dark; but they kept their mounted patrols +on every side of the rock, at a respectable distance from such dead +shots, watching to prevent the escape of the besieged. As they were +hungry, one of the men went down under cover of the darkness to get +a few buffalo-chips with which to cook their rabbit, and to change +the animals to where they could get fresh grass. He returned safely +to the summit of the rock, where a little fire was made and their +supper prepared. They had to go without water all the time, and so +did the mules; the men did not mind the want of it themselves, but +they could not help pitying their poor animals that had had none +since they left camp early that morning. It was no use to worry, +though; the nearest water was at the river, and it would have been +certain death to have attempted to go there unless the savages +cleared out, and from all appearances they had no idea of doing that. + +What gave the trappers more cause for alarm than anything else, +was the fear that the Indians would fire the prairie in the morning, +and endeavour to smoke them out or burn them up. The grass was in +just the condition to make a lively blaze, and they might escape +the flames, and then they might not. It can well be imagined how +eagerly they watched for the dawn of another day, perhaps the last +for them. + +The first gray streaks of light had hardly peeped above the horizon, +when, with an infernal yell, the Indians broke for the rock, and +the trappers were certain that some new project had entered their +heads. The wind was springing up pretty freshly, and nature seemed +to conspire with the red devils, if they really meant to burn the +trappers out; and from the movements of the savages, that was what +they expected. The Indians kept at a respectful distance from the +range of the trappers' rifles, who chafed because they could not +stop some of the infernal yelling with a few well-directed bullets, +but they had to choke their rage, and watch events closely. During +a temporary lull in hostilities, one of the trappers took occasion +to crawl down to where the mules were, and shift them to the west +side of the rock, where the wall was the highest; so that the flame +and smoke might possibly pass by them without so much danger as where +they were picketed before. He had just succeeded in doing this, +and, tearing up the long grass for several yards around the animals, +was in the act of going back, when his partner yelled out to him: +"Look out! D---n 'em, they've fired the prairie!" He was back on +the top of the rock in another moment, and took in at a glance what +was coming. + +The spectacle for a short interval was indescribably grand; the sun +was shining with all the power of its rays on the huge clouds of smoke +as they rolled down from the north, tinting them a glorious crimson. +The two trappers had barely time to get under the shelter of a large +projecting point of the rocky wall, when the wind and smoke swept +down to the ground, and instantly they were enveloped in the darkness +of midnight. They could not discern a single object; neither Indians, +horses, the prairie, nor the sun; and what a terrible wind! + +The trappers stood breathless, clinging to the projections of rock, +and did not realize the fire was so near them until they were struck +in the face by pieces of burning buffalo-chips that were carried +toward them with the rapidity of the awful wind. They were now badly +scared, for it seemed as if they were to be suffocated. They were +saved, however, almost miraculously; the sheet of flame passed them +twenty yards away, as the wind fortunately shifted at the moment +the fire reached the foot of the rock. The darkness was so intense +that they did not discover the flame; they only knew that they were +saved as the clear sky greeted them from behind the dense smoke-cloud. + +Two of the Indians and their horses were caught in their own trap, +and perished miserably. They had attempted to reach the east side +of the rock, so as to steal around to the other side where the mules +were, and either cut them loose or crawl up on the trappers while +bewildered in the smoke and kill them, if they were not already dead. +But they had proceeded only a few rods on their little expedition, +when the terrible darkness of the smoke-cloud overtook them and soon +the flames, from which there was no possible escape. + +All the game on the prairie which the fire swept over was killed too. +Only a few buffalo were visible in that region before the fire, but +even they were killed. The path of the flames, as was discovered by +the caravans that passed over the Trail a few days afterward, was +marked with the crisp and blackened carcasses of wolves, coyotes, +turkeys, grouse, and every variety of small birds indigenous to the +region. Indeed, it seemed as if no living thing it had met escaped +its fury. The fire assumed such gigantic proportions, and moved +with such rapidity before the wind, that even the Arkansas River +did not check its path for a moment; it was carried as readily across +as if the stream had not been in its way. + +The first thought of the trappers on the rock was for their poor +mules. One crawled to where they were, and found them badly singed, +but not seriously injured. The men began to brighten up again when +they knew that their means of transportation were relatively all +right, and themselves also, and they took fresh courage, beginning +to believe they should get out of their bad scrape after all. + +In the meantime the Indians, with the exception of three or four +left to guard the rock, so as to prevent the trappers from getting +away, had gone back to their camp in the ravine, and were evidently +concocting some new scheme for the discomfort of the besieged +trappers. The latter waited patiently two or three hours for the +development of events, snatching a little sleep by turns, which they +needed much; for both were worn out by their constant watching. +At last when the sun was about three hours high, the Indians commenced +their infernal howling again, and then the trappers knew they had +decided upon something; so they were on the alert in a moment to +discover what it was, and euchre them if possible. + +The devils this time had tied all their ponies together, covered +them with branches of trees that they had gone up on the Walnut for, +packed some lodge-skins on these, and then, driving the living +breastworks before them, moved toward the rock. They proceeded +cautiously but surely, and matters began to look very serious for +the trappers. As the strange cavalcade approached, a trapper raised +his rifle, and a masked pony tumbled over on the scorched sod dead. +As one of the Indians ran to cut him loose, the other trapper took +him off his feet by a well-directed shot; he never uttered a groan. +The besieged now saw their only salvation was to kill the ponies +and so demoralize the Indians that they would have to abandon such +tactics, and quicker than I can tell it, they had stretched four +more out on the prairie, and made it so hot for the savages that +they ran out of range and began to hold a council of war. + +Finding that their plan would not work--for as the last pony was shot, +the rest stampeded and were running wild over the prairie--the Indians +soon went back to their camp again, and the trappers now had a few +spare moments in which to take an account of stock. They discovered, +much to their chagrin, that they had used up all their ammunition +except three or four loads, and despair hovered over them once more. + +The Indians did not reappear that evening, and the cause was apparent; +for in the distance could be seen a long line of wagons, one of the +large American caravans en route to Santa Fe. The savages had seen +it before the trappers, and had cleared out. When the train arrived +opposite the rock, the relieved men came down from their little +fortress, joined the caravan, and camped with the Americans that +night on the Walnut. While they were resting around their camp-fire, +smoking and telling of their terrible experience on the top of the +rock, the Indians could be heard chanting the death-song while they +were burying their warriors under the blackened sod of the prairie. + +I witnessed a spirited encounter between a small band of Cheyennes +and Pawnees in the fall of 1867. It occurred on the open prairie +north of the mouth of the Walnut, and not a great distance from +Pawnee Rock. Both tribes were hunting buffalo, and when they, +by accident, discovered the presence of each other, with a yell +that fairly shook the sand dunes on the Arkansas, they rushed at once +into the shock of battle. + +That night, in a timbered bend of the Walnut, the victors had a grand +dance, in which scalps, ears, and fingers of their enemies, suspended +by strings to long poles, were important accessories to their weird +orgies around their huge camp-fires.[65] + +One of the most horrible massacres in the history of the Trail +occurred at Little Cow Creek in the summer of 1864. In July of that +year a government caravan, loaded with military stores for Fort Union +in New Mexico, left Fort Leavenworth for the long and dangerous +journey of more than seven hundred miles over the great plains, +which that season were infested by Indians to a degree almost without +precedent in the annals of freight traffic. + +The train was owned by a Mr. H. C. Barret, a contractor with the +quartermaster's department; but he declined to take the chances of +the trip unless the government would lease the outfit in its entirety, +or give him an indemnifying bond as assurance against any loss. +The chief quartermaster executed the bond as demanded, and Barret +hired his teamsters for the hazardous journey; but he found it a +difficult matter to induce men to go out that season. + +Among those whom he persuaded to enter his employ was a mere boy, +named McGee, who came wandering into Leavenworth a few weeks before +the train was ready to leave, seeking work of any description. +His parents had died on their way to Kansas, and on his arrival at +Westport Landing, the emigrant outfit that had extended to him +shelter and protection in his utter loneliness was disbanded; so the +youthful orphan was thrown on his own resources. At that time the +Indians of the great plains, especially along the line of the Santa Fe +Trail, were very hostile, and continually harassing the freight +caravans and stage-coaches of the overland route. Companies of men +were enlisting and being mustered into the United States service to +go out after the savages, and young Robert McGee volunteered with +hundreds of others for the dangerous duty. The government needed +men badly, but McGee's youth militated against him, and he was below +the required stature; so he was rejected by the mustering officer. + +Mr. Barret, in hunting for teamsters to drive his caravan, came +across McGee, who, supposing that he was hiring as a government +employee, accepted Mr. Barret's offer. + +By the last day of June the caravan was all ready, and on the morning +of the next day, July 1, the wagons rolled out of the fort, escorted +by a company of United States troops, from the volunteers referred to. + +The caravan wound its weary way over the lonesome Trail with nothing +to relieve the monotony save a few skirmishes with the Indians; but +no casualties occurred in these insignificant battles, the savages +being afraid to venture too near on account of the presence of the +military escort. + +On the 18th of July, the caravan arrived in the vicinity of Fort +Larned. There it was supposed that the proximity of that military +post would be a sufficient guarantee from any attack of the savages; +so the men of the train became careless, and as the day was excessively +hot, they went into camp early in the afternoon, the escort remaining +in bivouac about a mile in the rear of the train. + +About five o'clock, a hundred and fifty painted savages, under the +command of Little Turtle of the Brule Sioux, swooped down on the +unsuspecting caravan while the men were enjoying their evening meal. +Not a moment was given them to rally to the defence of their lives, +and of all belonging to the outfit, with the exception of one boy, +not a soul came out alive. + +The teamsters were every one of them shot dead and their bodies +horribly mutilated. After their successful raid, the savages +destroyed everything they found in the wagons, tearing the covers +into shreds, throwing the flour on the trail, and winding up by +burning everything that was combustible. + +On the same day the commanding officer of Fort Larned had learned +from some of his scouts that the Brule Sioux were on the war-path, +and the chief of the scouts with a handful of soldiers was sent out +to reconnoitre. They soon struck the trail of Little Turtle and +followed it to the scene of the massacre on Cow Creek, arriving +there only two hours after the savages had finished their devilish +work. Dead men were lying about in the short buffalo-grass which +had been stained and matted by their flowing blood, and the agonized +posture of their bodies told far more forcibly than any language +the tortures which had come before a welcome death. All had been +scalped; all had been mutilated in that nameless manner which seems +to delight the brutal instincts of the North American savage. + +Moving slowly from one to the other of the lifeless forms which +still showed the agony of their death-throes, the chief of the scouts +came across the bodies of two boys, both of whom had been scalped +and shockingly wounded, besides being mutilated, yet, strange to say, +both of them were alive. As tenderly as the men could lift them, +they were conveyed at once back to Fort Larned and given in charge +of the post surgeon. One of the boys died in a few hours after his +arrival in the hospital, but the other, Robert McGee, slowly regained +his strength, and came out of the ordeal in fairly good health. + +The story of the massacre was related by young McGee, after he was +able to talk, while in the hospital at the fort; for he had not +lost consciousness during the suffering to which he was subjected +by the savages. + +He was compelled to witness the tortures inflicted on his wounded and +captive companions, after which he was dragged into the presence of +the chief, Little Turtle, who determined that he would kill the boy +with his own hands. He shot him in the back with his own revolver, +having first knocked him down with a lance handle. He then drove +two arrows through the unfortunate boy's body, fastening him to the +ground, and stooping over his prostrate form ran his knife around +his head, lifting sixty-four square inches of his scalp, trimming +it off just behind his ears. + +Believing him dead by that time, Little Turtle abandoned his victim; +but the other savages, as they went by his supposed corpse, could not +resist their infernal delight in blood, so they thrust their knives +into him, and bored great holes in his body with their lances. + +After the savages had done all that their devilish ingenuity could +contrive, they exultingly rode away, yelling as they bore off the +reeking scalps of their victims, and drove away the hundreds of mules +they had captured. + +When the tragedy was ended, the soldiers, who had from their +vantage-ground witnessed the whole diabolical transaction, came up +to the bloody camp by order of their commander, to learn whether +the teamsters had driven away their assailants, and saw too late +what their cowardice had allowed to take place. The officer in +command of the escort was dismissed the service, as he could not +give any satisfactory reason for not going to the rescue of the +caravan he had been ordered to guard. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. +FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. + + + +The Wagon Mound, so called from its resemblance to a covered army-wagon, +is a rocky mesa forty miles from Point of Rocks, westwardly. +The stretch of the Trail from the latter to the mound has been +the scene of some desperate encounters, only exceeded in number +and sanguinary results by those which have occurred in the region of +Pawnee Rock, the crossing of the Walnut, Pawnee Fork, and Cow Creek. + +One of the most remarkable stories of this Wagon Mound country dealt +with the nerve and bravery exhibited by John L. Hatcher in defence +of his life, and those of the men in his caravan, about 1858. + +Hatcher was a noted trader and merchant of New Mexico. He was also +celebrated as an Indian fighter, and his name was a terror to the +savages who infested the settlements of New Mexico and raided the Trail. + +He left Taos, where he then resided, in the summer, with his caravan +loaded with furs and pelts destined for Westport Landing; to be +forwarded from there to St. Louis, the only market for furs in the +far West. His train was a small one, comprising about fifteen wagons +and handled by about as many men, including himself. At the date +of his adventure the Indians were believed to be at peace with +everybody; a false idea, as Hatcher well knew, for there never was +such a condition of affairs as absolute immunity from their attacks. +While it might be true that the old men refrained for a time from +starting out on the war-path, there were ever the vastly greater +number of restless young warriors who had not yet earned their eagle +feathers, who could not be controlled by their chiefs, and who were +always engaged in marauding, either among the border settlements +or along the line of the Trail. + +When Hatcher was approaching the immediate vicinity of Wagon Mound,[66] +with his train strung out in single column, to his great astonishment +there suddenly charged on him from over the hill about three hundred +savages, all feather-bedecked and painted in the highest style of +Indian art. As they rode toward the caravan, they gave the sign +of peace, which Hatcher accepted for the time as true, although he +knew them well. However, he invited the head men to some refreshment, +as was usual on such occasions in those days, throwing a blanket +on the ground, on which sugar in abundance was served out. +The sweet-toothed warriors helped themselves liberally, and affected +much delight at the way they were being treated; but Hatcher, with +his knowledge of the savage character, was firm in the belief that +they came for no other purpose than to rob the caravan and kill him +and his men. + +They were Comanches, and one of the most noted chiefs of the tribe +was in command of the band, with some inferior chiefs under him. +I think it was Old Wolf, a very old man then, whose raids into Texas +had made his name a terror to the Mexicans living on the border. + +While the chiefs were eating their saccharine lunch, Hatcher was +losing no time in forming his wagons into a corral, but he told his +friends afterward that he had no idea that either he or any of his +men would escape; only fifteen or sixteen men against over three +hundred merciless savages, and those the worst on the continent, +and a small corral--the chances were totally hopeless! Nothing but +a desperate action could avail, and maybe not even that.[67] Hatcher, +after the other head men had finished eating, asked the old chief +to send his young warriors away over the hill. They were all sitting +close to one of the wagons, Old Wolf, in fact, leaning against the +wheel resting on his blanket, with Hatcher next him on his right. +Hatcher was so earnest in his appeal to have the young men sent away, +that both the venerable villain and his other chiefs rose and were +standing. Without a moment's notice or the slightest warning, +Hatcher reached with his left hand and grabbed Old Wolf by his +scalp-lock, and with his right drew his butcher-knife from its +scabbard and thrust it at the throat of the chief. All this was +done in an instant, as quick as lightning; no one had time to move. +The situation was remarkable. The little, wiry man, surrounded by +eight or nine of the most renowned warriors of the dreaded Comanches, +stood firm; everybody was breathless; not a word did the savages say. +Hatcher then said again to Old Wolf, in the most determined manner: +"Send your young men over the hill at once, or I'll kill you right +where you are!" holding on to the hair of the savage with his left +hand and keeping the knife at his throat. + +The other Indians did not dare to make a move; they knew what kind of +a man Hatcher was; they knew he would do as he had said, and that if +they attempted a rescue he would kill their favourite chief in a second. + +Old Wolf shook his head defiantly in the negative. Hatcher repeated +his order, getting madder all the time: "Send your young men over +the hill; I tell you!" Old Wolf was still stubborn; he shook his +head again. Hatcher gave him another chance: "Send your young men +over the hill, I tell you, or I'll scalp you alive as you are!" +Again the chief shook his head. Then Hatcher, still holding on the +hair of his stubborn victim, commenced to make an incision in the +head of Old Wolf, for the determined man was bound to carry out his +threat; but he began very slowly. + +As the chief felt the blood trickle down his forehead, he weakened. +He ordered his next in command to send the young men over the hill +and out of sight. The order was repeated immediately to the warriors, +who were astonished spectators of the strange scene, and they quickly +mounted their horses and rode away over the hill as fast as they +could thump their animals' sides with their legs, leaving only five +or six chiefs with Old Wolf and Hatcher. + +Hatcher held on like grim death to the old chief's head, and immediately +ordered his men to throw the robes out of the wagons as quickly as +they could, and get inside themselves. This was promptly obeyed, +and when they were all under the cover of the wagon sheets, Hatcher +let go of his victim's hair, and, with a last kick, told him and his +friends that they could leave. They went off, and did not return. + +Some laughable incidents have enlivened the generally sanguinary +history of the Old Santa Fe Trail, but they were very serious at +the time to those who were the actors, and their ludicrousness came +after all was over. + +In the late summer of 1866, a thieving band of Apaches came into the +vicinity of Fort Union, New Mexico, and after carefully reconnoitring +the whole region and getting at the manner in which the stock +belonging to the fort was herded, they secreted themselves in the +Turkey Mountains overlooking the entire reservation, and lay in wait +for several days, watching for a favourable moment to make a raid +into the valley and drive off the herd. + +Selecting an occasion when the guard was weak and not very alert, +they in broad daylight crawled under the cover of a hill, and, +mounting their horses, dashed out with the most unearthly yells and +down among the animals that were quietly grazing close to the fort, +which terrified these so greatly that they broke away from the herders, +and started at their best gait toward the mountains, closely followed +by the savages. + +The astonished soldiers used every effort to avert the evident loss +of their charge, and many shots were exchanged in the running fight +that ensued; but the Indians were too strong for them, and they were +forced to abandon the chase. + +Among the herders was a bugler boy, who was remarkable for his bravery +in the skirmish and for his untiring endeavours to turn the animals +back toward the fort, but all without avail; on they went, with the +savages, close to their heels, giving vent to the most vociferous +shouts of exultation, and directing the most obscene and insulting +gesticulations to the soldiers that were after them. + +While this exciting contest for the mastery was going on, an old +Apache chief dashed in the rear of the bold bugler boy, and could, +without doubt, easily have killed the little fellow; but instead of +doing this, from some idea of a good joke, or for some other +incomprehensible reason, his natural blood-thirsty instinct was +changed, and he merely knocked the bugler's hat from his head with +the flat of his hand, and at the same time encouragingly stroked his +hair, as much as to say: "You are a brave boy," and then rode off +without doing him any harm. + +Thirty years ago last August, I was riding from Fort Larned to Fort +Union, New Mexico, in the overland coach. I had one of my clerks +with me; we were the only passengers, and arrived at Fort Dodge, +which was the commencement of the "long route," at midnight. +There we changed drivers, and at the break of day were some +twenty-four miles on our lonely journey. The coach was rattling +along at a breakneck gait, and I saw that something was evidently +wrong. Looking out of one of the doors, I noticed that our Jehu was +in a beastly state of intoxication. It was a most dangerous portion +of the Trail; the Indians were not in the best of humours, and an +attack was not at all improbable before we arrived at the next +station, Fort Lyon. + +I said to my clerk that something must be done; so I ordered the +driver to halt, which he did willingly, got out, and found that, +notwithstanding his drunken mood, he was very affable and disposed +to be full of fun. I suggested that he get inside the coach and +lie down to sleep off his potations, to which he readily assented, +while I and my clerk, after snugly fixing him on the cushions, +got on the boot, I taking the lines, he seizing an old trace-chain, +with which he pounded the mules along; for we felt ourselves in a +ticklish predicament should we come across any of the brigands of +the plains, on that lonely route, with the animals to look out for, +and only two of us to do the fighting. + +Suddenly we saw sitting on the bank of the Arkansas River, about +a dozen rods from the Trail, an antiquated-looking savage with his +war-bonnet on, and armed with a long lance and his bow and arrows. +We did not care a cent for him, but I thought he might be one of +the tribe's runners, lying in wait to discover the condition of the +coach--whether it had an escort, and how many were riding in it, and +that then he would go and tell how ridiculously small the outfit was, +and swoop down on us with a band of his colleagues, that were hidden +somewhere in the sand hills south of the river. He rose as we came +near, and made the sign, after he had given vent to a series of +"How's!" that he wanted to talk; but we were not anxious for any +general conversation with his savage majesty just then, so my clerk +applied the trace-chain more vigorously to the tired mules, in order +to get as many miles between him and the coach as we could before +he could get over into the sand hills and back. + +It was, fortunately, a false alarm; the old warrior perhaps had no +intentions of disturbing us. We arrived at Fort Lyon in good season, +with our valorous driver absolutely sobered, requesting me to say +nothing about his accident, which, of course, I did not. + +As has been stated, the caravans bound for Santa Fe and the various +forts along the line of the Old Trail did not leave the eastern end +of the route until the grass on the plains, on which the animals +depended solely for subsistence the whole way, grew sufficiently to +sustain them, which was usually about the middle of May. But a great +many years ago, one of the high officials of the quartermaster's +department at Washington, who had never been for a moment on duty +on the frontier in his life, found a good deal of fault with what he +thought the dilatoriness of the officer in charge at Fort Leavenworth, +who controlled the question of transportation for the several forts +scattered all over the West, for not getting the freight caravans +started earlier, which the functionary at the capital said must and +should be done. He insisted that they must leave the Missouri River +by the middle of April, a month earlier than usual, and came out +himself to superintend the matter. He made the contracts accordingly, +easily finding contractors that suited him. He then wrote to +headquarters in a triumphant manner that he had revolutionized the +whole system of army transportation of supplies to the military posts. +Delighted with his success, he rode out about the second week of May +to Salt Creek, only three miles from the fort, and, very much to his +astonishment, found his teams, which he had believed to be on the +way to Santa Fe a month ago, snugly encamped. They had "started," +just as was agreed. + +There are, or rather were, hundreds of stories current thirty-five +years ago of stage-coach adventures on the Trail; a volume could be +filled with them, but I must confine myself to a few. + +John Chisholm was a famous ranchman a long while ago, who had so many +cattle that it was said he did not know their number himself. At one +time he had a large contract to furnish beef to an Indian agency +in Arizona; he had just delivered an immense herd there, and very +wisely, after receiving his cash for them, sent most of it on to +Santa Fe in advance of his own journey. When he arrived there, +he started for the Missouri River with a thousand dollars and +sufficient small change to meet his current expenses on the road. + +The very first night out from Santa Fe, the coach was halted by a +band of men who had been watching Chisholm's movements from the time +he left the agency in Arizona. The instant the stage came to a +standstill, Chisholm divined what it meant, and had time to thrust +a roll of money down one of the legs of his trousers before the door +was thrown back and he was ordered to fork over what he had. + +He invited the robbers to search him, and to take what they might +find, but said he was not in a financial condition at that juncture +to turn over much. The thieves found his watch, took that, and then +began to search him. As luck would have it, they entirely missed +the roll that was down his leg, and discovered but a two-dollar bill +in his vest. When he told them it was all he had to buy grub on +the road, one of the robbers handed him a silver dollar, remarking +as he did so: "That a man who was mean enough to travel with only +two dollars ought to starve, but he would give him the dollar just +to let him know that he was dealing with gentlemen!" + +One of the essentials to the comfort of the average soldier is +tobacco. He must have it; he would sooner forego any component part +of his ration than give it up. + +In November, 1865, a detachment of Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas +Volunteers, and of the Second Colorado were ordered from Fort Larned +to Fort Lyon on a scouting expedition along the line of the Trail, +the savages having been very active in their raids on the freight caravans. + +In a short time their tobacco began to run low, and as there was no +settlement of any kind between the two military posts, there was no +chance to replenish their stock. One night, while encamped on the +Arkansas, the only piece that was left in the whole command, about +half a plug, was unfortunately lost, and there was dismay in the +camp when the fact was announced. Hours were spent in searching for +the missing treasure. The next morning the march was delayed for +some time, while further diligent search was instituted by all hands, +but without result, and the command set out on its weary tramp, +as disconsolate as may well be imagined by those who are victims to +the habit of chewing the weed. + +Arriving at Fort Lyon, to their greater discomfort it was learned +that the sutler at that post was entirely out of the coveted article, +and the troops began their return journey more disconsolate than ever. +Dry leaves, grass, and even small bits of twigs, were chewed as a +substitute, until, reaching the spot where they had lost the part of +a plug, they determined to remain there that night and begin a more +vigorous hunt for the missing piece. Just before dark their efforts +were rewarded; one of the men found it, and such a scramble occurred +for even the smallest nibble at it! Enormous prices were given for +a single chew. It opened at one dollar for a mere sliver, rose to +five, and closed at ten dollars when the last morsel was left. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. +A DESPERATE RIDE. + + + +In the Rocky Mountains and on the great plains along the line of the +Old Trail are many rude and widely separated graves. The sequestered +little valleys, the lonely gulches, and the broad prairies through +which the highway to New Mexico wound its course, hide the bones of +hundreds of whom the world will never have any more knowledge. +The number of these solitary, and almost obliterated mounds is small +when compared with the vast multitude in the cemeteries of our towns, +though if the host of those whose bones are mouldering under the +short buffalo-grass and tall blue-stem of the prairies between the +Missouri and the mountains were tabulated, the list would be appalling. +Their aggregate will never be known; for the once remote region of +the mid-continent, like the ocean, rarely gave up its victims. +Lives went out there as goes an expiring candle, suddenly, swiftly, +and silently; no record was kept of time or place. All those who +thus died are graveless and monumentless, the great circle of the +heavens is the dome of their sepulchre, and the recurring blossoms +of springtime their only epitaph. + +Sometimes the traveller over the Old Trail will suddenly, in the most +unexpected places, come across a little mound, perhaps covered with +stones, under which lie the mouldering bones of some unfortunate +adventurer. Above, now on a rude board, then on a detached rock, or +maybe on the wall of a beetling canyon, he may frequently read, in crude +pencilling or rougher carving, the legend of the dead man's ending. + +The line of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, which +practically runs over the Old Trail for nearly its whole length to +the mountains, is a fertile field of isolated graves. The savage +and soldier, the teamster and scout, the solitary trapper or hunter, +and many others who have gone down to their death fighting with the +relentless nomad of the plains, or have been otherwise ruthlessly +cut off, mark with their last resting-places that well-worn pathway +across the continent. + +The tourist, looking from his car-window as he is whirled with the +speed of a tornado toward the snow-capped peaks of the "Great Divide," +may see as he approaches Walnut Creek, three miles east of the town +of Great Bend in Kansas, on the beautiful ranch of Hon. D. Heizer, +not far from the stream, and close to the house, a series of graves, +numbering, perhaps, a score. These have been most religiously +cared for by the patriotic proprietor of the place during all the +long years since 1864, as he believes them to be the last resting-place +of soldiers who were once a portion of the garrison of Fort Zarah, +the ruins of which (now a mere hole in the earth) are but a few +hundred yards away, on the opposite side of the railroad track, +plainly visible from the train. + +The Walnut debouches into the Arkansas a short distance from where +the railroad crosses the creek, and at this point, too, the trail +from Fort Leavenworth merges into the Old Santa Fe. The broad pathway +is very easily recognized here; for it runs over a hard, flinty, +low divide, that has never been disturbed by the plough, and the +traveller has only to cast his eyes in a northeasterly direction +in order to see it plainly. + +The creek is fairly well timbered to-day, as it has been ever since +the first caravan crossed the clear water of the little stream. +It was always a favourite place of ambush by the Indians, and many +a conflict has occurred in the beautiful bottom bounded by a margin +of trees on two sides, between the traders, trappers, troops, and +the Indians, and also between the several tribes that were hereditary +enemies, particularly the Pawnees and the Cheyennes. It is only +about sixteen miles east of Pawnee Rock, and included in that region +of debatable ground where no band of Indians dared establish a +permanent village; for it was claimed by all the tribes, but really +owned by none. + +In 1864 the commerce of the great plains had reached enormous +proportions, and immense caravans rolled day after day toward the +blue hills which guard the portals of New Mexico, and the precious +freight constantly tempted the wily savages to plunder. + +To protect the caravans on their monotonous route through the "Desert," +as this portion of the plains was then termed, troops were stationed, +a mere handful relatively, at intervals on the Trail, to escort the +freighters and mail coaches over the most exposed and dangerous +portions of the way. + +On the bank of the Walnut, at this time, were stationed three hundred +unassigned recruits of the Third Wisconsin Cavalry, under the command +of Captain Conkey. This point was rightly regarded as one of the +most important on the whole overland route; for near it passed the +favourite highway of the Indians on their yearly migrations north +and south, in the wake of the strange elliptical march of the buffalo +far beyond the Platte, and back to the sunny knolls of the Canadian. + +This primitive cantonment which grew rapidly in strategical importance, +was two years later made quite formidable defensively, and named +Fort Zarah, in memory of the youngest son of Major General Curtis, +who was killed by guerillas somewhere south of Fort Scott, Kansas, +while escorting General James G. Blunt, of frontier fame during +the Civil War. + +Captain Henry Booth, during the year above mentioned, was chief of +cavalry and inspecting officer of the military district of the Upper +Arkansas, the western geographical limits of which extended to the +foot-hills of the mountains. + +One day he received an order from the head-quarters of the department +to make a special inspection of all the outposts on the Santa Fe Trail. +He was stationed at Fort Riley at the time, and the evening the order +arrived, active preparations were immediately commenced for his +extended and hazardous trip across the plains. Lieutenant Hallowell, +of the Ninth Wisconsin Battery, was to accompany him, and both +officers went at once to their quarters, took down from the walls, +where they had been hanging idly for weeks, their rifles and pistols, +and carefully examined and brushed them up for possible service in +the dreary Arkansas bottom. Camp-kettles, until late in the night, +sizzled and sputtered over crackling log-fires; for their proposed +ride beyond the settlements demanded cooked rations for many a +weary day. All the preliminaries arranged, the question of the means +of transportation was determined, and, curiously enough, it saved +the lives of the two officers in the terrible gauntlet they were +destined to run. + +Hallowell was a famous whip, and prided himself upon the exceptionally +fine turnout which he daily drove among the picturesque hills around +the fort. + +"Booth," said he in the evening, "let's not take a great lumbering +ambulance on this trip; if you will get a good way-up team of mules +from the quartermaster, we'll use my light rig, and we'll do our +own driving." + +To this proposition Booth readily assented, procured the mules, and, +as it turned out, they were a "good way-up team." + +Hallowell had a set of bows fitted to his light wagon, over which +was thrown an army-wagon-sheet, drawn up behind with a cord, similar +to those of the ordinary emigrant outfit to be seen daily on the +roads of the Western prairies. A round hole was necessarily left +in the rear end, serving the purpose of a lookout. + +Two grip-sacks, containing their dress uniforms, a box of crackers +and cheese, meat and sardines, together with a bottle of anti-snake +bite, made up the principal freight for the long journey, and in the +clear cold of the early morning they rolled out of the gates of the +fort, escorted by Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas, commanded by +Lieutenant Van Antwerp. + +The company of one hundred mounted men acting as escort was too +formidable a number for the Indians, and not a sign of one was seen +as the dangerous flats of Plum Creek and the rolling country beyond +were successively passed, and early in the afternoon the cantonment +on Walnut Creek was reached. At this important outpost Captain +Conkey's command was living in a rude but comfortable sort of a way, +in the simplest of dugouts, constructed along the right bank of the +stream; the officers, a little more in accordance with military +dignity, in tents a few rods in rear of the line of huts. + +A stockade stable had been built, with a capacity for two hundred +and fifty horses, and sufficient hay had been put up by the men in +the fall to carry the animals through the winter. + +Captain Conkey was a brusque but kind-hearted man, and with him were +stationed other officers, one of whom was a son of Admiral Goldsborough. +The morning after the arrival of the inspecting officers a rigid +examination of all the appointments and belongings of the place was +made, and, as an immense amount of property had accumulated for +condemnation, when evening came the books and papers were still +untouched; so that branch of the inspection had to be postponed +until the next morning. + +After dark, while sitting around the camp-fire, discussing the war, +telling stories, etc., Captain Conkey said to Booth: "Captain, +it won't require more than half an hour in the morning to inspect +the papers and finish up what you have to do; why don't you start +your escort out very early, so it won't be obliged to trot after +the ambulance, or you to poke along with it? You can then move out +briskly and make time." + +Booth, acting upon what he thought at the time an excellent suggestion, +in a few moments went over the creek to Lieutenant Van Antwerp's camp, +to tell him that he need not wait for the wagon in the morning, but +to start out early, at half-past six, in advance. + +According to instructions, the escort marched out of camp at daylight +next morning, while Booth and Hallowell remained to finish their +inspection. It was soon discovered, however, that either Captain +Conkey had underrated the amount of work to be done, or misjudged +the inspecting officers' ability to complete it in a certain time; +so almost three hours elapsed after the cavalry had departed before +the task ended. + +At last everything was closed up, much to Hallowell's satisfaction, +who had been chafing under the vexatious delay ever since the escort +left. When all was in readiness, the little wagon drawn up in front +of the commanding officer's quarters, and farewells said, Hallowell +suggested to Booth the propriety of taking a few of the troops +stationed there to go with them until they overtook their own escort, +which must now be several miles on the Trail to Fort Larned. +Booth asked Captain Conkey what he thought of Hallowell's suggestion. +Captain Conkey replied: "Oh! there's not the slightest danger; +there hasn't been an Indian seen around here for over ten days." + +If either Booth or Hallowell had been as well acquainted with the +methods and character of the plains Indians then as they afterward +became, they would have insisted upon an escort; but both were +satisfied that Captain Conkey knew what he was talking about, +so they concluded to push on. + +Jumping into their wagon, Lieutenant Hallowell took the reins and +away they went rattling over the old log bridge that used to span +the Walnut at the crossing of the Old Santa Fe Trail, as light of +heart as if riding to a dance. + +The morning was bright and clear with a stiff breeze blowing from +the northwest, and the Trail was frozen hard in places, which made +it very rough, as it had been cut up by the travel of the heavily +laden caravans when it was wet. Booth sat on the left side of +Hallowell with the whip in his hand, now and then striking the mules, +to keep up their speed. Hallowell started up a tune--he was a good +singer--and Booth joined in as they rolled along, as oblivious of any +danger as though they were in their quarters at Fort Riley. + +After they had proceeded some distance, Hallowell remarked to Booth: +"The buffalo are grazing a long way from the road to-day; a circumstance +that I think bodes no good." He had been on the plains the summer +before, and was better acquainted with the Indians and their +peculiarities than Captain Booth; but the latter replied that he +thought it was because their escort had gone on ahead, and had +probably frightened them off. + +The next mile or two was passed, and still they saw no buffalo between +the Trail and the Arkansas, though nothing more was said by either +regarding the suspicious circumstance, and they rode rapidly on. + +When they had gone about five or six miles from the Walnut, Booth, +happening to glance toward the river, saw something that looked +strangely like a flock of turkeys. He watched them intently for a +moment, when the objects rose up and he discovered they were horsemen. +He grasped Hallowell by the arm, directing his attention to them, and +said, "What are they?" Hallowell gave a hasty look toward the point +indicated, and replied, "Indians! by George!" and immediately turning +the mules around on the Trail, started them back toward the cantonment +on the Walnut at a full gallop.[68] + +"Hold on!" said Booth to Hallowell when he understood the latter's +movement; "maybe it's part of our escort." + +"No! no!" replied Hallowell. "I know they are Indians; I've seen +too many of them to be mistaken." + +"Well," rejoined Booth, "I'm going to know for certain"; so, stepping +out on the foot-board, and with one hand holding on to the front bow, +he looked back over the top of the wagon-sheet. They were Indians, +sure enough; they had fully emerged from the ravine in which they had +hidden, and while he was looking at them they were slipping off their +buffalo robes from their shoulders, taking arrows out of their quivers, +drawing up their spears, and making ready generally for a red-hot time. + +While Booth was intently regarding the movements of the savages, +Hallowell inquired of him: "They're Indians, aren't they, Booth?" + +"Yes," was Booth's answer, "and they're coming down on us like a +whirlwind." + +"Then I shall never see poor Lizzie again!" said Hallowell. He had +been married only a few weeks before starting out on this trip, and +his young wife's name came to his lips. + +"Never mind Lizzie," responded Booth; "let's get out of here!" He was +as badly frightened as Hallowell, but had no bride at Riley, and, +as he tells it, "was selfishly thinking of himself only, and escape." + +In answer to Booth's remark, Hallowell, in a firm, clear voice, said: +"All right! You do the shooting, and I'll do the driving," and +suiting the action to the words, he snatched the whip out of Booth's +hand, slipped from the seat to the front of the wagon, and commenced +lashing the mules furiously. + +Booth then crawled back, pulled out one of his revolvers, crept, or +rather fell, over the "lazy-back" of the seat, and reaching the hole +made by puckering the wagon-sheet, looked out of it, and counted +the Indians; thirty-four feather-bedecked, paint-bedaubed savages, +as vicious a set as ever scalped a white man, swooping down on them +like a hawk upon a chicken. + +Hallowell, between his yells at the mules, cried out, "How far are +they off now, Booth?" for of course he could see nothing of what +was going on in his rear. + +Booth replied as well as he could judge of the distance, while +Hallowell renewed his yelling at the animals and redoubled his +efforts with the lash. + +Noiselessly the Indians gained on the little wagon, for they had not +as yet uttered a whoop, and the determined driver, anxious to know +how far the red devils were from him, again asked Booth. The latter +told him how near they were, guessing at the distance, from which +Hallowell gathered inspiration for fresh cries and still more vigorous +blows with his whip. + +Booth, all this time, was sitting on the box containing the crackers +and sardines, watching the rapid approach of the cut-throats, and +seeing with fear and trembling the ease with which they gained upon +the little mules. + +Once more Hallowell made his stereotyped inquiry of Booth; but before +the latter could reply, two shots were fired from the rifles of the +Indians, accompanied by a yell that was demoniacal enough to cause +the blood to curdle in one's veins. Hallowell yelled at the mules, +and Booth yelled too; for what reason he could not tell, unless to +keep company with his comrade, who plied the whip more mercilessly +than ever upon the poor animals' backs, and the wagon flew over +the rough road, nearly upsetting at every jump. + +In another moment the bullets from two of the Indians' rifles passed +between Booth and Hallowell, doing no damage, and almost instantly +the savages charged upon them, at the same time dividing into two +parties, one going on one side and one on the other, both delivering +a volley of arrows into the wagon as they rode by. + +Just as the savages rushed past the wagon, Hallowell cried out to +Booth, "Cap, I'm hit!" and turning around to look, Booth saw an arrow +sticking in Hallowell's head above his right ear. His arm was still +plying the whip, which was going on unceasingly as the sails of a +windmill, and his howling at the mules only stopped long enough to +answer, "Not much!" in response to Booth's inquiry of "Does it hurt?" +as he grabbed the arrow and pulled it out of his head. + +The Indians had by this time passed on, and then, circling back, +prepared for another charge. Down they came, again dividing as before +into two bands, and delivering another shower of arrows. Hallowell +ceased his yelling long enough to cry out, "I'm hit once more, Cap!" +Looking at the plucky driver, Booth saw this time an arrow sticking +over his left ear, and hanging down his back. He snatched it out, +inquiring if it hurt, but received the same answer: "No, not much." + +Both men were now yelling at the top of their voices; and the mules +were jerking the wagon along the rough trail at a fearful rate, +frightened nearly out of their wits at the sight of the Indians and +the terrible shouting and whipping of the driver. + +Booth crawled to the back end of the wagon again, looked out of the +hole in the cover, and saw the Indians moving across the Trail, +preparing for another charge. One old fellow, mounted on a black +pony, was jogging along in the centre of the road behind them, but +near enough and evidently determined to send an arrow through the +puckered hole of the sheet. In a moment the savage stopped his pony +and let fly. Booth dodged sideways--the arrow sped on its course, and +whizzing through the opening, struck the black-walnut "lazy-back" +of the seat, the head sticking out on the other side, and the sudden +check causing the feathered end to vibrate rapidly with a vro-o-o-ing +sound. With a quick blow Booth struck it, and broke the shaft from +the head, leaving the latter embedded in the wood. + +As quickly as possible, Booth rushed to the hole and fired his +revolver at the old devil, but failed to hit him. While he was +trying to get in another shot, an arrow came flying through from +the left side of the Trail, and striking him on the inside of the +elbow, or "crazy-bone," so completely benumbed his hand that he +could not hold on to the pistol, and it dropped into the road with +one load still in its chamber. Just then the mules gave an +extraordinary jump to one side, which jerked the wagon nearly from +under him, and he fell sprawling on the end-gate, evenly balanced, +with his hands on the outside, attempting to clutch at something to +save himself! Seeing his predicament, the Indians thought they had +him sure, so they gave a yell of exultation, supposing he must +tumble out, but he didn't; he fortunately succeeded in grabbing +one of the wagon-bows with his right hand and pulled himself in; +but it was a close call. + +While all this was going on, Hallowell had not been neglected by +the Indians; about a dozen of them had devoted their time to him, +but he never flinched. Just as Booth had regained his equilibrium +and drawn his second revolver from its holster, Hallowell yelled +to him: "Right off to your right, Cap, quick!" + +Booth tumbled over the back of the seat, and, clutching at a wagon-bow +to steady himself, he saw, "off to the right," an Indian who was in +the act of letting an arrow drive at Hallowell; it struck the side of +the box, and at the same instant Booth fired, scaring the red devil badly. + +Back over the seat again he rushed to guard the rear, only to find +a young buck riding close to the side of the wagon, his pony running +in the deep path made by the ox-drivers in walking alongside of their +teams. Putting his left arm around one of the wagon-bows to prevent +his being jerked out, Booth quietly stuck his revolver through the +hole in the sheet; but before he could pull the trigger, the Indian +flopped over on the off side of his pony, and nothing could be seen +of him excepting one arm around his animal's neck and from the knee +to the toes of one leg. Booth did not wait for him to ride up; +he could almost hit the pony's head with his hand, so close was he +to the wagon. Booth struck at the beast several times, but the +Indian kept him right up in his place by whipping him on the opposite +of his neck. Presently the plucky savage's arm began to move. +Booth watched him intently, and saw that he had fixed an arrow in +his bow under the pony's shoulder; just as he was on the point of +letting go the bowstring, with the head of the arrow not three feet +from Booth's breast as he leaned out of the hole, the latter struck +frantically at the weapon, dodged back into the wagon, and up came +the Indian. Whenever Booth looked out, down went the Indian on +the other side of his pony, to rise again in a moment, and Booth, +afraid to risk himself with his head and breast exposed at this game +of hide and seek, drew suddenly back as the Indian went down the +third time, and in a second came up; but this was once too often. +Booth had not dodged completely into the wagon, nor dropped his +revolver, and as the Indian rose he fired. + +The savage was naked to the waist; the ball struck him in the left +nipple, the blood spirted out of the wound, his bow and arrows and +lariat, with himself, rolled off the pony, falling heavily on the +ground, and with one convulsive contraction of his legs and an "Ugh!" +he was as dead as a stone. + +"I've killed one of 'em!" called out Booth to Hallowell, as he saw +his victim tumble from his pony. + +"Bully for you, Cap!" came Hallowell's response as he continued his +shouting, and the blows of that tireless whip fell incessantly on +the backs of the poor mules. + +After he had killed the warrior, Booth kept his seat on the cracker box, +watching to see what the Indians were going to do next, when he was +suddenly interrupted by Hallowell's crying out to him: "Off to the +right again, Cap, quick!" and, whirling around instantly, he saw an +Indian within three feet of the wagon, with his bow and arrow almost +ready to shoot; there was no time to get over the seat, and as he +could not fire so close to Hallowell, he cried to the latter: +"Hit him with the whip! Hit him with the whip!" The lieutenant +diverted one of the blows intended for the mules, and struck the +savage fairly across the face. The whip had a knot in the end of it +to prevent its unravelling, and this knot must have hit the Indian +squarely in the eye; for he dropped his bow, put both hands up to +his face, rubbed his eyes, and digging his heels into his pony's +sides was soon out of range of a revolver; but, nevertheless, he was +given a parting shot as a sort of salute. + +A terrific yell from the rear at this moment caused both Booth and +Hallowell to look around, and the latter to inquire: "What's the +matter now, Booth?" "They are coming down on us like lightning," +said he; and, sure enough, those who had been prancing around their +dead comrade were tearing along the Trail toward the wagon with a +more hideous noise than when they began. + +Hallowell yelled louder than ever and lashed the mules more furiously +still, but the Indians gained upon them as easily as a blooded racer +on a common farm plug. Separating as before, and passing on each +side of the wagon, they delivered another volley of bullets and +arrows as they rushed on. + +When this charge was made, Booth drew away from the hole in the rear +and turned toward the Indians, but forgot that as he was sitting, +with his back pressed against the sheet, his body was plainly outlined +on the canvas. + +When the Indians dashed by Hallowell cried out, "I'm hit again, Cap!" +and Booth, in turning around to go to his relief, felt something +pulling at him; and glancing over his left shoulder he discovered +an arrow sticking into him and out through the wagon-sheet. With a +jerk of his body, he tore himself loose, and going to Hallowell, +asked him where he was hit. "In the back," was the reply; where +Booth saw an arrow extending under the "lazy-back" of the seat. +Taking hold of it, Booth gave a pull, but Hallowell squirmed so that +he desisted. "Pull it out!" cried the plucky driver. Booth thereupon +took hold of it again, and giving a jerk or two, out it came. He was +thoroughly frightened as he saw it leave the lieutenant's body; +it seemed to have entered at least six inches, and the wound appeared +to be a dangerous one. Hallowell, however, did not cease for a moment +belabouring the mules, and his yells rang out as clear and defiant +as before. + +After extracting the arrow from Hallowell's back, Booth turned again +to the opening in the rear of the wagon to see what new tricks the +devils were up to, when Hallowell again called out, "Off to the left, +Cap, quick!" + +Rushing to the front as soon as possible, Booth saw one of the savages +in the very act of shooting at Hallowell from the left side of the +wagon, not ten feet away. The last revolver was empty, but something +had to be done at once; so, levelling the weapon at him, Booth shouted +"Bang! you son-of-a-gun!" Down the Indian ducked his head; rap, rap, +went his knees against his pony's sides, and away he flew over +the prairie! + +Back to his old place in the rear tumbled Booth, to load his revolver. +The cartridges they used in the army in those days were the +old-fashioned kind made of paper. Biting off one end, he endeavoured +to pour the powder into the chamber of the pistol; but as the wagon +was tumbling from side to side, and jumping up and down, as it fairly +flew over the rough Trail, more fell into the bottom of the wagon +than into the revolver. Just as he was inserting a ball, Hallowell +yelled, "To the left, Cap, quick!" + +Over the seat Booth piled once more, and there was another Indian +with his bow and arrow all ready to pinion the brave lieutenant. +Pointing his revolver at him, Booth yelled as he had at the other, +but this savage had evidently noticed the first failure, and concluded +there were no more loads left; so, instead of taking a hasty departure, +he grinned demoniacally and endeavoured to fix the arrow in his bow. +Booth rose up in the wagon, and grasping hold of one of its bows +with his left hand, seized the revolver by the muzzle, and with all +the force he could muster hurled it at the impudent brute. It was +a Remington, its barrel octagon-shaped, with sharp corners, and when +it was thrown, it turned in the air, and striking the Indian +muzzle-first on the ribs, cut a long gash. + +"Ugh!" he grunted, as, dropping his bow and spear, he flung himself +over the side of his pony, and away he went across the prairie. + +Only one revolver remaining now, and that empty, with the savages +still howling around the apparently doomed men like so many demons! +Booth fell over the seat, as was his usual fate whenever he attempted +to get to the back of the wagon, picked up the empty revolver, and +tried to load it; but before he could bite the end of a cartridge, + Hallowell yelled, "Cap, I'm hit again!" + +"Where this time?" inquired Booth, anxiously. "In the hand," replied +Hallowell; and, looking around, Booth noticed that although his right +arm was still thrashing at the now lagging mules with as much energy +as ever, through the fleshy part of the thumb was an arrow, which was +flopping up and down as he raised and lowered his hand in ceaseless +efforts to keep up the speed of the almost exhausted animals. + +"Let me pull it out," said Booth, as he came forward to do so. + +"No, never mind," replied Hallowell; "can't stop! can't stop!" and up +and down went the arm, and flip, flap, went the arrow with it, until +finally it tore through the flesh and fell to the ground. + +Along they bowled, the Indians yelling, and the occupants of the +little wagon defiantly answering them, while Booth continued to +struggle desperately with that empty pistol, in his vain efforts +to load it. In another moment Hallowell shouted, "Booth, they are +trying to crowd the mules into the sunflowers!" + +Alongside of the Trail huge sunflowers had grown the previous summer, +and now their dry stalks stood as thick as a cane-brake; if the wagon +once got among them, it would be impossible for the mules to keep up +their gallop. The savages seemed to realize this; for one huge old +fellow kept riding alongside the off mule, throwing his spear at him +and then jerking it back with the thong, one end of which was fastened +to his wrist. The near mule was constantly pushed further and further +from the Trail by his mate, which was jumping frantically, scared out +of his senses by the Indian. + +At this perilous juncture, Booth stepped out on the foot-board of +the wagon, and, holding on by a bow, commenced to kick the frightened +mule vigorously, while Hallowell pulled on one line, whipping and +yelling at the same time; so together they succeeded in forcing the +animals back into the Trail. + +The Indians kept close to the mules in their efforts to force them +into the sunflowers, and Booth made several attempts to scare the +old fellow that was nearest by pointing his empty revolver at him, +but he would not scare; so in his desperation Booth threw it at him. +He missed the old brute, but hit his pony just behind its rider's leg, +which started the animal into a sort of a stampede; his ugly master +could not control him, and thus the immediate peril from the +persistent cuss was delayed. + +Now the pair were absolutely without firearms of any kind, with +nothing left except their sabres and valises, and the savages came +closer and closer. In turn the two swords were thrown at them as they +came almost within striking distance; then followed the scabbards, +as the howling fiends surrounded the wagon and attempted to spear +the mules. Fortunately their arrows were exhausted. + +The cantonment on the Walnut was still a mile and a half away, and +there was nothing for our luckless travellers to do but whip and kick, +both of which they did most vigorously. Hallowell sat as immovable +as the Sphinx, excepting his right arm, which from the moment they +had started on the back trail had not once ceased its incessant motion. + +Happening to cast his eyes back on the Trail, Booth saw to his dismay +twelve or fifteen of the savages coming up on the run with fresh +energy, their spears poised ready for action, and he felt that +something must be done very speedily to divert them; for if these +added their number to those already surrounding the wagon, the chances +were they would succeed in forcing the mules into the sunflowers, +and his scalp and Hallowell's would dangle at the belt of the leader. + +Glancing around in the bottom of the wagon for some kind of weapon, +his eye fell on the two valises containing the dress-suits. +He snatched up his own, and threw it out while the pursuers were yet +five or six rods in the rear. The Indians noticed this new trick +with a great yell of satisfaction, and the moment they arrived at +the spot where the valise lay, all dismounted; one of them, seizing +it by the two handles, pulled with all his strength to open it, and +when he failed, another drew a long knife from under his blanket and +ripped it apart. He then put his hand in, pulling out a sash, which +he began to wind around his head, like a negress with a bandanna, +letting the tassels hang down his back. While he was thus amusing +himself, one of the others had taken out a dress-coat, a third a pair +of drawers, and still another a shirt, which they proceeded to put on, +meanwhile dancing around and howling. + +Booth told Hallowell of the sacrifice of the valise, and said, +"I'm going to throw out yours." "All right," replied Hallowell; +"all we want is time." So out it went on the Trail, and shared +the same fate as the other. + +The lull in hostilities caused by their outstripping their pursuers +gave the almost despairing men time to talk over their situation. +Hallowell said he did not propose to be captured and then butchered +or burned at the pleasure of the Indians. He said to Booth: "If they +kill one of the mules, and so stop us, let's kick, strike, throw dirt +or anything, and compel them to kill us on the spot." So it was agreed, +if the worst came to the worst, to stand back to back and fight. + +During this discussion the arm of Hallowell still plied the effective +lash, and they drew perceptibly nearer the camp, and as they caught +the first glimpse of its tents and dugouts, hope sprang up within them. +The mules were panting like a hound after a deer; wherever the +harness touched them, it was white with lather, and it was evident +they could keep on their feet but a short time longer. Would they +hold out until the bridge was reached? The whipping and the kicking +had but little effect on them now. They still continued their gallop, +but it was slower and more laboured than before. + +The Indians who had torn open the valises had not returned to the +chase, and although there were still a sufficient number of the +fiends pursuing to make it interesting, they did not succeed in +spearing the mules, as at every attempt the plucky animals would +jump sideways or forward and evade the impending blow. + +The little log bridge was reached; the savages had all retreated, +but the valorous Hallowell kept the mules at their fastest pace. +The bridge was constructed of half-round logs, and of course was +extremely rough; the wagon bounded up and down enough to shake the +teeth out of one's head as the little animals went flying over it. +Booth called out to Hallowell, "No need to drive so fast now, +the Indians have all left us"; but he replied, "I ain't going to stop +until I get across"; and down came the whip, on sped the mules, +not breaking their short gallop until they were pulled up in front +of Captain Conkey's quarters. + +The rattling of the wagon on the bridge was the first intimation +the garrison had of its return. + +The officers came running out of their tents, the enlisted men poured +out of their dugouts like a lot of ants, and Booth and Hallowell were +surrounded by their friends in a moment. Captain Conkey ordered his +bugler to sound "Boots and Saddles," and in less than ten minutes +ninety troopers were mounted, and with the captain at their head +started after the Indians. + +When Hallowell tried to rise from his seat so as to get out every +effort only resulted in his falling back. Some one stepped around +to the other side to assist him, when it was discovered that the +skirt of his overcoat had worked outside of the wagon-sheet and +hung over the edge, and that three or four of the arrows fired at him +by the savages had struck the side of the wagon, and, passing through +the flap of his coat, had pinned him down. Booth pulled the arrows +out and helped him up; he was pretty stiff from sitting in his cramped +position so long, and his right arm dropped by his side as if paralysed. + +Booth stood looking on while his comrade's wounds were being dressed, +when the adjutant asked him: "What makes you shrug your shoulder so?" +He answered, "I don't know; something makes it smart." The officer +looked at him and said, "Well, I don't wonder; I should think it +would smart; here's an arrow-head sticking into you," and he tried +to pull it out, but it would not come. Captain Goldsborough then +attempted it, but was not any more successful. The doctor then told +them to let it alone, and he would attend to Booth after he had done +with Hallowell. When he examined Booth's shoulder, he found that +the arrow-head had struck the thick portion of the shoulder-blade, +and had made two complete turns, wrapping itself around the muscles, +which had to be cut apart before the sharp point could be withdrawn. + +Booth was not seriously hurt. Hallowell, however, had received two +severe wounds; the arrow that had lodged in his back had penetrated +almost to his kidneys, and the wound in his thumb was very painful, +not so much from the simple impact of the arrow as from the tearing +away of the muscle by the shaft while he was whipping his mules; +his right arm, too, was swollen terribly, and so stiff from the +incessant use of it during the drive that for more than a month +he required assistance in dressing and undressing. + +The mules who had saved their lives were of small account after +their memorable trip; they remained stiff and sore from the rough +road and their continued forced speed. Booth and Hallowell went out +to look at them the next morning, as they hobbled around the corral, +and from the bottom of their hearts wished them well. + +Captain Conkey's command returned to the cantonment about midnight. +But one Indian had been seen, and he was south of the Arkansas in +the sand hills. + +The next morning a scouting-party of forty men, under command of a +sergeant, started out to scour the country toward Cow Creek, +northeast from the Walnut. + +As I have stated, the troopers stationed at the cantonment on the +Walnut were mostly recruits. Now the cavalry recruit of the old +regular army on the frontier, thirty or forty years ago, mounted on +a great big American horse and sent out with well-trained comrades +on a scout after the hostile savages of the plains, was the most +helpless individual imaginable. Coming fresh from some large city +probably, as soon as he arrived at his station he was placed on the +back of an animal of whose habits he knew as little as he did of the +differential calculus; loaded down with a carbine, the muzzle of which +he could hardly distinguish from the breech; a sabre buckled around +his waist; a couple of enormous pistols stuck in his holsters; +his blankets strapped to the cantle of his saddle, and, to complete +the hopelessness of his condition in a possible encounter with a +savage enemy who was ever on the alert, he was often handicapped by +a camp-kettle or two, a frying-pan, and ten days' rations. No wonder +this doughty representative of Uncle Sam's power was an easy prey for +"Poor Lo," who, when he caught the unfortunate soldier away from his +command and started after him, must have laughed at the ridiculous +appearance of his enemy, with both hands glued to the pommel of his +saddle, his hair on end, his sabre flying and striking his horse at +every jump as the animal tore down the trail toward camp, while the +Indian, rapidly gaining, in a few minutes had the scalp of the hapless +rider dangling at his belt, and another of the "boys in blue" had +joined the majority. + +The scouting-party had proceeded about four or five miles, when one +of the corporals asked permission for himself and a recruit to go +over to the Upper Walnut to find out whether they could discover +any signs of Indians. + +While they were carelessly riding along the big curve which the +northern branch of the Walnut makes at that point, there suddenly +sprang from their ambush in the timber on the margin of the stream +about three hundred Indians, whooping and yelling. The two troopers +of course, immediately whirled their horses and started down the +creek toward the camp, hotly pursued by the howling savages. + +The corporal was an excellent rider; a well-trained and disciplined +soldier, having seen much service on the plains. He led in the flight, +closely followed by the unfortunate recruit, who had been enlisted +but a short time. Not more than an eighth of a mile had been covered, +when the corporal heard his companion exclaim,-- + +"Don't leave me! Don't leave me!" + +Looking back, the corporal saw that the poor recruit was losing ground +rapidly; his horse was rearing and plunging, making very little +headway, while his rider was jerking and pulling on the bit, a curb +of the severest kind. Perceiving the strait his comrade was in, +the corporal reined up for a moment and called out,-- + +"Let him go! Let him go! Don't jerk on the bit so!" + +The Indians were gaining ground rapidly, and in another moment the +corporal heard the recruit again cry out,-- + +"Oh! Don't--" + +Realizing that it would be fatal to delay, and that he could be of +no assistance to his companion, already killed and scalped, he leaned +forward on his horse, and sinking his spurs deep in the animal's +flanks fairly flew down the valley, with the three hundred savages +close in his wake. + +The officers at the camp were sitting in their tents when the sentinel +on post No. 1 fired his piece, upon which all rushed out to learn +the cause of the alarm; for there was no random shooting in those +days allowed around camp or in garrison. Looking up the valley of +the Walnut, they could see the lucky corporal, with his long hair +streaming in the wind, and his heels rapping his horse's sides, as he +dashed over the brown sod of the winter prairie. + +The corporal now slackened his pace, rode up to the commanding +officer's tent, reported the affair, and then was allowed to go to +his own quarters for the rest he so much needed. + +Captain Conkey immediately ordered a mounted squad, accompanied by an +ambulance, to go up the creek to recover the body of the unfortunate +recruit. The party were absent a little over an hour, and brought +back with them the remains of the dead soldier. He had been shot +with an arrow, the point of which was still sticking out through his +breast-bone. His scalp had been torn completely off, and the lapels +of his coat and the legs of his trousers carried away by the savages. +He was buried the next morning with military honours, in the little +graveyard on the bank of the Walnut, where his body still rests in +the dooryard of the ranch. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. +HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. + + + +In the spring of 1867, General Hancock, who then commanded the military +division of the Missouri, with headquarters at Fort Leavenworth, +Kansas, organized an expedition against the Indians of the great +plains, which he led in person. With him was General Custer, second +ranking officer, from whom I quote the story of the march and some +of the incidents of the raid. + +General Hancock, with the artillery and six companies of infantry, +arrived at Fort Riley, Kansas, the last week in March, where he was +joined by four companies of the Seventh Cavalry, commanded by the +intrepid Custer. + +From Fort Riley the expedition marched to Fort Harker, seventy-two +miles farther west, on the Smoky Hill, where the force was increased +by the addition of two more troops of cavalry. Remaining there only +long enough to replenish their commissary supplies, the march was +directed to Fort Larned on the Old Santa Fe Trail. On the 7th of +April the command reached the latter post, accompanied by the agent +of the Comanches and Kiowas; at the fort the agent of the Cheyennes, +Arapahoes, and Apaches was waiting for the arrival of the general. +The agent of the three last-mentioned tribes had already sent runners +to the head chiefs, inviting them to a grand council which was to +assemble near the fort on the 10th of the month, and he requested +General Hancock to remain at the fort with his command until that date. + +On the 9th of April a terrible snow-storm came on while the troops +were encamped waiting for the head men of the various tribes to arrive. +Custer says: + + It was our good fortune to be in camp rather than on the + march; had it been otherwise, we could not well have escaped + without loss of life. The cavalry horses suffered severely, + and were only preserved by doubling their rations of oats, + while to prevent their being frozen during the intensely + cold night which followed, the guards were instructed to + pass along the picket lines with a whip, and keep the + horses moving constantly. The snow was eight inches deep. + The council, which was to take place the next day, had to be + postponed until the return of good weather. Now began the + display of a kind of diplomacy for which the Indian is + peculiar. The Cheyennes and a band of Sioux were encamped + on Pawnee Fork, about thirty miles above Fort Larned. + They neither desired to move nearer to us or have us + approach nearer to them. On the morning of the 11th, + they sent us word that they had started to visit us, but, + discovering a large herd of buffalo near their camp, + they had stopped to procure a supply of meat. This message + was not received with much confidence, nor was a buffalo + hunt deemed of sufficient importance to justify the Indians + in breaking their engagement. General Hancock decided, + however, to delay another day, when, if the Indians still + failed to come in, he would move his command to the vicinity + of their village and hold the conference there. + + Orders were issued on the evening of the 12th for the march + to be resumed on the following day. Late in the evening + two chiefs of the "Dog-Soldiers," a band composed of the + most warlike and troublesome Indians on the plains, + chiefly made up of Cheyennes, visited our camp. They were + accompanied by a dozen warriors, and expressed a desire to + hold a conference with General Hancock, to which he assented. + A large council-fire was built in front of the general's + tent, and all the officers of his command assembled there. + A tent had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs + a short distance from the general's. Before they could + feel equal to the occasion, and in order to obtain time to + collect their thoughts, they desired that supper might be + prepared for them, which was done. When finally ready, + they advanced from their tent to the council-fire in single + file, accompanied by their agent and an interpreter. + Arrived at the fire, another brief delay ensued. No matter + how pressing or momentous the occasion, an Indian invariably + declines to engage in a council until he has filled his pipe + and gone through with the important ceremony of a smoke. + This attended to, the chiefs announced that they were ready + "to talk." They were then introduced to the principal + officers of the group, and seemed much struck with the + flashy uniforms of the few artillery officers, who were + present in all the glory of red horsehair plumes, + aiguillettes, etc. The chiefs seemed puzzled to determine + whether these insignia designated chieftains or medicine men. + General Hancock began the conference by a speech, in which + he explained to the Indians his purpose in coming to see + them, and what he expected of them in the future. + He particularly informed them that he was not there to make + war, but to promote peace. Then, expressing his regrets + that more of the chiefs had not visited him, he announced + his intention of proceeding on the morrow with his command + to the vicinity of their village, and there holding a + council with all the chiefs. Tall Bull, a fine, warlike-looking + chieftain, replied to General Hancock, but his speech + contained nothing important, being made up of allusions to + the growing scarcity of the buffalo, his love for the white + man, and the usual hint that a donation in the way of + refreshments would be highly acceptable; he added that he + would have nothing new to say at the village. + + Rightly concluding that the Indians did not intend to come + to our camp, as they had at first agreed to, it was decided + to move nearer their village. On the morning following the + conference our entire force, therefore, marched from + Fort Larned up Pawnee Fork in the direction of the main + village, encamping the first night about twenty-one miles + from Larned. Several parties of Indians were seen in our + advance during the day, evidently watching our movements, + while a heavy smoke, seen to rise in the direction of the + Indian village, indicated that something more than usual + was going on. The smoke, we afterward learned, arose from + burning grass. The Indians, thinking to prevent us from + encamping in their vicinity, had set fire to and burned all + the grass for miles in the direction from which they + expected us. Before we arrived at our camping-ground, + we were met by several chiefs and warriors belonging to the + Cheyennes and Sioux. Among the chiefs were Pawnee Killer, + of the Sioux, and White Horse, of the Cheyennes. It was + arranged that these chiefs should accept our hospitality + and remain with us during the night, and in the morning all + the chiefs of the two tribes then in the village were to + come to General Hancock's head-quarters and hold a council. + On the morning of the 14th, Pawnee Killer left our camp at + an early hour, as he said for the purpose of going to the + village to bring in the other chiefs to the council. + Nine o'clock had been agreed upon as the time at which the + council should assemble. The hour came, but the chiefs + did not. Now an Indian council is not only often an + important, but always an interesting, occasion. At this + juncture, Bull Bear, an influential chief among the + Cheyennes, came in and reported that the chiefs were on + their way to our camp, but would not be able to reach it + for some time. This was a mere artifice to secure delay. + General Hancock informed Bull Bear that, as the chiefs + could not arrive for some time, he would move his forces + up the stream nearer the village, and the council could be + held at our camp that night. To this proposition Bull Bear + gave his consent. + + At 11 A.M. we resumed the march, and had proceeded but a few + miles when we witnessed one of the finest and most imposing + military displays, according to the Indian art of war, + which it has been my lot to behold. It was nothing more + nor less than an Indian line of battle drawn directly + across our line of march, as if to say, "Thus far and no + further." Most of the Indians were mounted; all were + bedecked in their brightest colours, their heads crowned + with the brilliant war-bonnet, their lances bearing the + crimson pennant, bows strung, and quivers full of barbed + arrows. In addition to these weapons, which, with the + hunting-knife and tomahawk, are considered as forming the + armament of the warrior, each one was supplied with either + a breech-loading rifle or revolver, sometimes with both-- + the latter obtained through the wise forethought and strong + love of fair play which prevails in the Indian department, + which, seeing that its wards are determined to fight, + is equally determined that there shall be no advantage taken, + but that the two sides shall be armed alike; proving, too, + in this manner, the wonderful liberality of our government, + which is not only able to furnish its soldiers with the + latest style of breech-loaders to defend it and themselves, + but is equally able and willing to give the same pattern + of arms to the common foe. The only difference is, that if + the soldier loses his weapon, he is charged double price + for it, while to avoid making any such charge against the + Indian, his weapons are given him without conditions attached. + + In the line of battle before us there were several hundred + Indians, while further to the rear and at different + distances were other organized bodies, acting apparently + as reserves. Still further behind were small detachments + who seemed to perform the duty of couriers, and were held + in readiness to convey messages to the village. The ground + beyond was favourable for an extended view, and as far as + the eye could reach, small groups of individuals could be + seen in the direction of the village; these were evidently + parties of observation, whose sole object was to learn the + result of our meeting with the main body and hasten with + the news to the village. + + For a few moments appearances seemed to foreshadow anything + but a peaceable issue. The infantry was in the advance, + followed closely by the artillery, while my command, + the cavalry, was marching on the flank. General Hancock, + who was riding with his staff at the head of the column, + coming suddenly in view of the wild, fantastic battle array, + which extended far to our right and left, and was not more + than half a mile in our front, hastily sent orders to the + infantry, artillery, and cavalry to form in line of battle, + evidently determined that, if war was intended, we should be + prepared. The cavalry being the last to form on the right, + came into line on a gallop, and without waiting to align + the ranks carefully, the command was given to "Draw sabre." + As the bright blades flashed from their scabbards into the + morning sunlight, and the infantry brought their muskets + to a carry, a contrast was presented which, to a military + eye, could but be striking. Here in battle array, facing + each other, were the representatives of civilized and + barbarous warfare. The one, with few modifications, stood + clothed in the same rude style of dress, bearing the same + patterned shield and weapon that his ancestors had borne + centuries before; the other confronted him in the dress + and supplied with the implements of war which an advanced + stage of civilization had pronounced the most perfect. + Was the comparative superiority of these two classes to be + subjected to the mere test of war here? All was eager + anxiety and expectation. Neither side seemed to comprehend + the object or intentions of the other; each was waiting + for the other to deliver the first blow. A more beautiful + battle-ground could not have been chosen. Not a bush or + even the slightest irregularity of ground intervened between + the two lines, which now stood frowning and facing each other. + Chiefs could be seen riding along the line, as if directing + and exhorting their braves to deeds of heroism. + + After a few moments of painful suspense, General Hancock, + accompanied by General A. J. Smith and other officers, + rode forward, and through an interpreter invited the chiefs + to meet us midway for the purpose of an interview. + In response to this invitation, Roman Nose, bearing a white + flag, accompanied by Bull Bear, White Horse, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, on the part of the Cheyennes, and Pawnee + Killer, Bad Wound, Tall-Bear-That-Walks-under-the-Ground, + Left Hand, Little Bear, and Little Bull, on the part of the + Sioux, rode forward to the middle of the open space between + the two lines. Here we shook hands with all the chiefs, + most of them exhibiting unmistakable signs of gratification + at this apparently peaceful termination of our rencounter. + General Hancock very naturally inquired the object of the + hostile attitude displayed before us, saying to the chiefs + that if war was their object, we were ready then and there + to participate. Their immediate answer was that they did + not desire war, but were peacefully disposed. They were + then told that we would continue our march toward the + village, and encamp near it, but would establish such + regulations that none of the soldiers would be permitted + to approach or disturb them. An arrangement was then + effected by which the chiefs were to assemble at General + Hancock's headquarters as soon as our camp was pitched. + The interview then terminated, and the Indians moved off + in the direction of their village, we following leisurely + in the rear. + + A march of a few miles brought us in sight of the village, + which was situated in a beautiful grove on the bank of the + stream up which we had been marching. It consisted of + upwards of three hundred lodges, a small fraction over half + belonging to the Cheyennes, the remainder to the Sioux. + Like all Indian encampments, the ground chosen was a most + romantic spot, and at the same time fulfilled in every + respect the requirements of a good camping-ground; wood, + water, and grass were abundant. The village was placed on + a wide, level plateau, while on the north and west, at a + short distance off, rose high bluffs, which admirably served + as a shelter against the cold winds which at that season of + the year prevail from those directions. Our tents were + pitched within a mile of the village. Guards were placed + between to prevent intrusion upon our part. We had scarcely + pitched our tents when Roman Nose, Bull Bear, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, all prominent chiefs of the Cheyenne + nation, came into camp with the information that upon our + approach their women and children had all fled from the + village, alarmed by the presence of so many soldiers, and + imagining a second Chivington massacre to be intended. + General Hancock insisted that they should all return, + promising protection and good treatment to all; that if + the camp was abandoned, he would hold it responsible. + The chiefs then stated their belief in their ability to + recall the fugitives, could they be furnished with horses + to overtake them. This was accordingly done, and two of + them set out mounted on two of our horses. An agreement + was also entered into at the same time, that one of our + interpreters, Ed Gurrier, a half-breed Cheyenne, who was in + the employ of the government, should remain in the village + and report every two hours as to whether any Indians were + leaving there. This was about seven o'clock in the evening. + At half-past nine the half-breed returned to head-quarters + with the intelligence that all the chiefs and warriors were + saddling up to leave, under circumstances showing that they + had no intention of returning, such as packing up every + article that could be carried with them, and cutting and + destroying their lodges--this last being done to obtain + small pieces for temporary shelter. + + I had retired to my tent, which was some few hundred yards + from that of General Hancock, when a messenger from the + latter awakened me with the information that the general + desired my presence in his tent. He briefly stated the + situation of affairs, and directed me to mount my command + as quickly and as silently as possible, surround the Indian + village, and prevent the departure of its inhabitants. + Easily said, but not so easily done. Under ordinary + circumstances, silence not being necessary, I could have + returned to my camp, and by a few blasts from the trumpet, + placed every soldier on his saddle almost as quickly as it + has taken time to write this short sentence. No bugle calls + must be sounded; we were to adopt some of the stealth of the + Indians--how successfully remained to be seen. By this time + every soldier and officer was in his tent sound asleep. + First going to the tent of the adjutant and arousing him, + I procured an experienced assistant in my labours. Next the + captains of companies were awakened and orders imparted + to them. They in turn transmitted the order to the first + sergeant, who similarly aroused the men. It has often + surprised me to observe the alacrity with which disciplined + soldiers, experienced in campaigning, will hasten to prepare + themselves for the march in an emergency like this. + No questions are asked, no time is wasted. A soldier's + toilet, on an Indian campaign, is a simple affair, and + requires little time for arranging. His clothes are + gathered up hurriedly, no matter how, so long as he retains + possession of them. The first object is to get his horse + saddled and bridled, and until this is done his own dress + is a matter of secondary importance, and one button or hook + must do the duty of half a dozen. When his horse is ready + for the mount, the rider will be seen completing his own + equipment; stray buttons will receive attention, arms will + be overhauled, spurs restrapped; then, if there still remain + a few spare moments, the homely black pipe is filled and + lighted, and the soldier's preparation is complete. + + The night was all that could be desired for the success of + our enterprise. The air was mild and pleasant; the moon, + although nearly full, kept almost constantly behind the + clouds, as if to screen us in our hazardous undertaking. + I say hazardous, because none of us imagined for one moment + that if the Indians discovered us in our attempt to surround + them and their village, we should escape without a fight-- + a fight, too, in which the Indians, sheltered behind the + trunks of the stately forest trees under which their lodges + were pitched, would possess all the advantage. General + Hancock, anticipating that the Indians would discover our + approach, and that a fight would ensue, ordered the + artillery and infantry under arms, to await the result of + our moonlight adventure. My command was soon in the saddle, + and silently making its way toward the village. + Instructions had been given forbidding all conversation + except in a whisper. Sabres were disposed of to prevent + clanging. Taking a camp-fire which we could see in the + village as our guiding point, we made a detour so as to + place the village between ourselves and the infantry. + Occasionally the moon would peep out from the clouds and + enable us to catch a hasty glance at the village. Here and + there under the thick foliage we could see the white, + conical-shaped lodges. Were the inmates slumbering, + unaware of our close proximity, or were their dusky defenders + concealed, as well they might have been, along the banks of + the Pawnee, quietly awaiting our approach, and prepared to + greet us with their well-known war-whoop? These were + questions that were probably suggested to the mind of each + individual of my command. If we were discovered approaching + in the stealthy, suspicious manner which characterized our + movements, the hour being midnight, it would require a more + confiding nature than that of the Indian to assign a + friendly or peaceful motive to our conduct. The same + flashes of moonlight which gave us hurried glimpses of the + village enabled us to see our own column of horsemen + stretching its silent length far into the dim darkness, and + winding its course, like some huge anaconda about to envelop + its victim. + + The method by which it was determined to establish a cordon + of armed troopers about the fated village, was to direct + the march in a circle, with the village in the centre, + the commanding officer of each rear troop halting his + command at the proper point, and deploying his men similarly + to a line of skirmishers--the entire circle, when thus formed, + facing toward the village, and, distant from it perhaps a + few hundred yards. No sooner was our line completely formed + than the moon, as if deeming darkness no longer essential + to our success, appeared from behind her screen and lighted + up the entire scene. And beautiful it was! The great + circle of troops, each individual of which sat on his steed + silent as a statue, the dense foliage of the cotton trees + sheltering the bleached, skin-clad lodges of the red men, + the little stream in the midst murmuring undisturbedly in + its channel, all combined to produce an artistic effect, + as striking as it was interesting. But we were not there + to study artistic effects. The next step was to determine + whether we had captured an inhabited village, involving + almost necessarily a severe conflict with its savage + occupants, or whether the red man had again proven too + wily and crafty for his more civilized brothers. + + Directing the entire line of troopers to remain mounted + with carbines held at the "Advance," I dismounted, and + taking with me Gurrier, the half-breed, Dr. Coates, one of + our medical staff, and Lieutenant Moylan, the adjutant, + we proceeded on our hands and knees toward the village. + The prevailing opinion was that the Indians were still + asleep. I desired to approach near enough to the lodges + to enable the half-breed to hail the village in the Indian + tongue, and if possible establish friendly relations at once. + It became a question of prudence with us, which we discussed + in whispers as we proceeded on our "Tramp, tramp, tramp, + the boys are creeping," how far from our horses and how + near to the village we dared to go. If so few of us were + discovered entering the village in this questionable manner, + it was more than probable that, like the returners of stolen + property, we should be suitably rewarded and no questions + asked. The opinion of Gurrier, the half-breed, was eagerly + sought for and generally deferred to. His wife, + a full-blooded Cheyenne, was a resident of the village. + This with him was an additional reason for wishing a peaceful + termination to our efforts. When we had passed over + two-thirds of the distance between our horses and the + village, it was thought best to make our presence known. + Thus far not a sound had been heard to disturb the stillness + of the night. Gurrier called out at the top of his voice + in the Cheyenne tongue. The only response came from the + throats of a score or more of Indian dogs which set up a + fierce barking. At the same time one or two of our party + asserted that they saw figure moving beneath the trees. + Gurrier repeated his summons, but with no better results + than before. + + A hurried consultation ensued. The presence of so many dogs + in the village was regarded by the half-breed as almost + positive assurance that the Indians were still there. + Yet it was difficult to account for their silence. Gurrier + in a loud tone repeated who he was, and that our mission was + friendly. Still no answer. He then gave it as his opinion + that the Indians were on the alert, and were probably + waiting in the shadow of the trees for us to approach nearer, + when they would pounce upon us. This comforting opinion + induced another conference. We must ascertain the truth of + the matter; our party could do this as well as a larger + number, and to go back and send another party in our stead + could not be thought of. + + Forward! was the verdict. Each one grasped his revolver, + resolved to do his best, whether it was in running or + fighting. I think most of us would have preferred to take + our own chances at running. We had approached near enough + to see that some of the lodges were detached some distance + from the main encampment. Selecting the nearest of these, + we directed our advance on it. While all of us were full + of the spirit of adventure, and were further encouraged + with the idea that we were in the discharge of our duty, + there was scarcely one of us who would not have felt more + comfortable if we could have got back to our horses without + loss of pride. Yet nothing, under the circumstances, but + a positive order would have induced any one to withdraw. + + Cautiously approaching, on all fours, to within a few yards + of the nearest lodge, occasionally halting and listening to + discover whether the village was deserted or not, we finally + decided that the Indians had fled before the arrival of the + cavalry, and that none but empty lodges were before us. + This conclusion somewhat emboldened as well as accelerated + our progress. Arriving at the first lodge, one of our party + raised the curtain or mat which served as a door, and the + doctor and myself entered. The interior of the lodge was + dimly lighted by the dying embers of a small fire built in + the centre. All around us were to be seen the usual + adornments and articles which constitute the household + effects of an Indian family. Buffalo-robes were spread like + carpets over the floor; head-mats, used to recline on, were + arranged as if for the comfort of their owners; parflêches, + a sort of Indian band-box, with their contents apparently + undisturbed, were carefully stowed away under the edges or + borders of the lodge. These, with the door-mats, paint-bags, + rawhide ropes, and other articles of Indian equipment, + were left as if the owners had only absented themselves for + a brief period. To complete the picture of an Indian lodge, + over the fire hung a camp-kettle, in which, by means of the + dim light of the fire, we could see what had been intended + for the supper of the late occupants of the lodge. + The doctor, ever on the alert to discover additional items + of knowledge, whether pertaining to history or science, + snuffed the savoury odours which arose from the dark + recesses of the mysterious kettle. Casting about the lodge + for some instrument to aid him in his pursuit of knowledge, + he found a horn spoon, with which he began his investigation + of the contents, finally succeeding in getting possession + of a fragment which might have been the half of a duck or + rabbit, judging from its size merely. "Ah!" said the doctor, + in his most complacent manner, "here is the opportunity I + have long been waiting for. I have often desired to test + the Indian mode of cooking. What do you suppose this is?" + holding up the dripping morsel. Unable to obtain the + desired information, the doctor, whose naturally good + appetite had been sensibly sharpened by his recent exercise, + set to with a will and ate heartily of the mysterious + contents of the kettle. He was only satisfied on one point, + that it was delicious--a dish fit for a king. Just then + Gurrier, the half-breed, entered the lodge. He could solve + the mystery, having spent years among the Indians. To him + the doctor appealed for information. Fishing out a huge + piece, and attacking it with the voracity of a hungry wolf, + he was not long in determining what the doctor had supped + heartily upon. His first words settled the mystery: "Why, + this is dog." I will not attempt to repeat the few but + emphatic words uttered by the heartily disgusted member of + the medical fraternity as he rushed from the lodge. + + Other members of our small party had entered other lodges, + only to find them, like the first, deserted. But little of + the furniture belonging to the lodges had been taken, + showing how urgent and hasty had been the flight of the + owners. To aid in the examination of the village, + reinforcements were added to our party, and an exploration + of each lodge was determined upon. At the same time a + messenger was despatched to General Hancock, informing him + of the flight of the Indians. Some of the lodges were + closed by having brush or timber piled up against the + entrance, as if to preserve the contents. Others had huge + pieces cut from their sides, these pieces evidently being + carried away to furnish temporary shelter for the fugitives. + In most of the lodges the fires were still burning. I had + entered several without discovering anything important. + Finally, in company with the doctor, I arrived at one the + interior of which was quite dark, the fire having almost + died out. Procuring a lighted fagot, I prepared to explore it, + as I had done the others; but no sooner had I entered the + lodge than my fagot failed me, leaving me in total darkness. + Handing it to the doctor to be relighted, I began to feel + my way about the interior of the lodge. I had almost made + the circuit when my hand came in contact with a human foot; + at the same time a voice unmistakably Indian, and which + evidently came from the owner of the foot, convinced me that + I was not alone. My first impressions were that in their + hasty flight the Indians had gone off, leaving this one + asleep. My next, very naturally, related to myself. + I would gladly have placed myself on the outside of the + lodge, and there matured plans for interviewing its occupant; + but unfortunately to reach the entrance of the lodge, I must + either pass over or around the owner of the before-mentioned + foot and voice. Could I have been convinced that among + its other possessions there was neither tomahawk nor + scalping-knife, pistol nor war-club, or any similar article + of the noble red-man's toilet, I would have risked an attempt + to escape through the low narrow opening of the lodge; + but who ever saw an Indian without one or all of these + interesting trinkets? Had I made the attempt, I should + have expected to encounter either the keen edge of the + scalping-knife or the blow of the tomahawk, and to have + engaged in a questionable struggle for life. This would + not do. I crouched in silence for a few moments, hoping + the doctor would return with the lighted fagot. I need not + say that each succeeding moment spent in the darkness of + that lodge seemed an age. I could hear a slight movement + on the part of my unknown neighbour, which did not add to + my comfort. Why does not the doctor return? At last I + discovered the approach of a light on the outside. When it + neared the entrance, I called the doctor and informed him + that an Indian was in the lodge, and that he had better + have his weapons ready for a conflict. I had, upon + discovering the foot, drawn my hunting-knife from its + scabbard, and now stood waiting the denouement. With his + lighted fagot in one hand and cocked revolver in the other, + the doctor cautiously entered the lodge. And there directly + between us, wrapped in a buffalo-robe, lay the cause of my + anxiety--a little Indian girl, probably ten years old; + not a full-blood, but a half-breed. She was terribly + frightened at finding herself in our hands, with none of + her people near. Other parties in exploring the deserted + village found an old, decrepit Indian of the Sioux tribe, + who had also been deserted, owing to his infirmities and + inability to travel with the tribe. Nothing was gleaned + from our search of the village which might indicate the + direction of the flight. General Hancock, on learning the + situation of affairs, despatched some companies of infantry + with orders to replace the cavalry and protect the village + and its contents from disturbance until its final disposition + could be determined upon, and it was decided that with eight + troops of cavalry I should start in pursuit of the Indians + at early dawn on the following morning. + + The Indians, after leaving their village, went up on the + Smoky Hill, and committed the most horrible depredations + upon the scattered settlers in that region. Upon this news, + General Hancock issued the following order:-- + + "As a punishment of the bad faith practised by the Cheyennes + and Sioux who occupied the Indian village at this place, and + as a chastisement for murders and depredations committed + since the arrival of the command at this point, by the + people of these tribes, the village recently occupied by + them, which is now in our hands, will be utterly destroyed." + + The Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Apaches had been united under + one agency; the Kiowas and Comanches under another. + As General Hancock's expedition had reference to all these + tribes, he had invited both the agents to accompany him + into the Indian country and be present at all interviews + with the representatives of these tribes, for the purpose, + as the invitation stated, of showing the Indians "that the + officers of the government are acting in harmony." + + In conversation with the general the agents admitted that + Indians had been guilty of all the outrages charged against + them, but each asserted the innocence of the particular + tribes under his charge, and endeavoured to lay their crimes + at the door of their neighbours. + + Here was positive evidence from the agents themselves that + the Indians against whom we were operating were deserving + of severe punishment. The only conflicting portion of the + testimony was as to which tribe was most guilty. Subsequent + events proved, however, that all of the five tribes named, + as well as the Sioux, had combined for a general war + throughout the plains and along our frontier. Such a war + had been threatened to our post commanders along the + Arkansas on many occasions during the winter. The movement + of the Sioux and Cheyennes toward the north indicated that + the principal theatre of military operations during the + summer would be between the Smoky Hill and Platte rivers. + General Hancock accordingly assembled the principal chiefs + of the Kiowas and Arapahoes in council at Fort Dodge, + hoping to induce them to remain at peace and observe their + treaty obligations. + + The most prominent chiefs in council were Satanta, Lone Wolf, + and Kicking Bird of the Kiowas, and Little Raven and Yellow + Bear of the Arapahoes. During the council extravagant + promises of future good behaviour were made by these chiefs. + So effective and convincing was the oratorical effort of + Satanta, that at the termination of his address, the + department commander and his staff presented him with the + uniform coat, sash, and hat of a major-general. In return + for this compliment, Satanta, within a few weeks, attacked + the post at which the council was held, arrayed in his + new uniform. + +In the spring of 1878, the Indians commenced a series of depredations +along the Santa Fe Trail and against the scattered settlers of the +frontier, that were unparalleled in their barbarity. General Alfred +Sully, a noted Indian fighter, who commanded the district of the +Upper Arkansas, early concentrated a portion of the Seventh and Tenth +Cavalry and Third Infantry along the line of the Old Santa Fe Trail, +and kept out small expeditions of scouting parties to protect the +overland coaches and freight caravans; but the troops effected very +little in stopping the devilish acts of the Indians, who were now +fully determined to carry out their threats of a general war, which +culminated in the winter expedition of General Sheridan, who completely +subdued them, and forced all the tribes on reservations; since which +time there has never been any trouble with the plains Indians worthy +of mention.[69] + +General Sully, about the 1st of September, with eight companies of +the Seventh Cavalry and five companies of infantry, left Fort Dodge, +on the Arkansas, on a hurried expedition against the Kiowas, Arapahoes, +and Cheyennes. The command marched in a general southeasterly +direction, and reached the sand hills of the Beaver and Wolf rivers, +by a circuitous route, on the fifth day. When nearly through that +barren region, they were attacked by a force of eight hundred of the +allied tribes under the leadership of the famous Kiowa chief, Satanta. +A running fight was kept up with the savages on the first day, +in which two of the cavalry were killed and one wounded. + +That night the savages came close enough to camp to fire into it +(an unusual proceeding in Indian warfare, as they rarely molest +troops during the night), I now quote from Custer again: + The next day General Sully directed his march down the + valley of the Beaver; but just as his troops were breaking + camp, the long wagon-train having already "pulled out," and + the rear guard of the command having barely got into their + saddles, a party of between two and three hundred warriors, + who had evidently in some inexplicable manner contrived to + conceal themselves until the proper moment, dashed into the + deserted camp within a few yards of the rear of the troops, + and succeeded in cutting off a few led horses and two of + the cavalrymen who, as is often the case, had lingered a + moment behind the column. + + Fortunately, the acting adjutant of the cavalry, Brevet + Captain A. E. Smith, was riding at the rear of the column + and witnessed the attack of the Indians. Captain Hamilton,[70] + of the Seventh Cavalry, was also present in command of the + rear guard. Wheeling to the rightabout, he at once prepared + to charge the Indians and attempt the rescue of the two + troopers who were being carried off before his very eyes. + At the same time, Captain Smith, as representative of the + commanding officer of the cavalry, promptly took the + responsibility of directing a squadron of the cavalry to + wheel out of column and advance in support of Captain + Hamilton's guard. With this hastily formed detachment, + the Indians, still within pistol-range, but moving off with + their prisoners, were gallantly charged and so closely + pressed that they were forced to relinquish one of their + prisoners, but not before shooting him through the body and + leaving him on the ground, as they supposed, mortally wounded. + The troops continued to charge the retreating Indians, + upon whom they were gaining, determined, if possible, + to effect the rescue of their remaining comrade. They were + advancing down one slope while the Indians, just across + a ravine, were endeavouring to escape with their prisoner + up the opposite ascent, when a peremptory order reached the + officers commanding the pursuing force to withdraw their men + and reform the column at once. The terrible fate awaiting + the unfortunate trooper carried off by the Indians spread + a deep gloom throughout the command. All were too familiar + with the horrid customs of the savages to hope for a moment + that the captive would be reserved for aught but a slow, + lingering death, from tortures the most horrible and painful + which blood-thirsty minds could suggest. Such was the truth + in his case, as we learned afterwards when peace (?) was + established with the tribes then engaged in war. + + The expedition proceeded down the valley of the Beaver, + the Indians contesting every step of the way. In the + afternoon, about three o'clock, the troops arrived at + a ridge of sand hills a few miles southeast of the + presentsite of Camp Supply, where quite a determined + engagement took place between the command and the three + tribes, Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Kiowas, the Indians + being the assailants. The Indians seemed to have reserved + their strongest efforts until the troops and train had + advanced well into the sand hills, when a most obstinate + resistance--and well conducted, too--was offered the + farther advance of the troops. It was evident that the + troops were probably nearing the Indian villages, and that + this opposition to further advance was to save them. The + character of the country immediately about the troops was + not favourable to the operations of cavalry; the surface + of the rolling plain was cut up by irregular and closely + located sand hills, too steep and sandy to allow cavalry + to move with freedom, yet capable of being easily cleared + of savages by troops fighting on foot. The Indians took + post on the hilltops and began a harassing fire on the + troops and train. Captain Yates, with a single troop of + cavalry, was ordered forward to drive them away. This was + a proceeding which did not seem to meet with favour from + the savages. Captain Yates could drive them wherever he + encountered them, but they appeared in increased numbers + at some other threatened point. After contending in this + non-effective manner for a couple of hours, the impression + arose in the minds of some that the train could not be + conducted through the sand hills in the face of the strong + opposition offered by the Indians. The order was issued + to turn about and withdraw. The order was executed, and + the troop and train, followed by the exultant Indians, + retired a few miles to the Beaver, and encamped for the + night on the ground afterward known as Camp Supply. + + Captain Yates had caused to be brought off the field, when + his troop was ordered to retire, the body of one of his men, + who had been slain in the fight. As the troops were to + continue their backward march next day, and it was impossible + to transport the dead body further, Captain Yates ordered + preparations made for interring it in camp that night. + Knowing that the Indians would thoroughly search the deserted + camp-ground almost before the troops should get out of sight, + and would be quick, with their watchful eyes, to detect a + grave, and, if successful in discovering it, would unearth + the body in order to get the scalp, directions were given + to prepare the grave after nightfall; and the spot selected + would have baffled any one but an Indian. The grave was + dug under the picket line to which the seventy or eighty + horses of the troop would be tethered during the night, + so that their constant tramping and pawing should completely + cover up and obliterate all traces. The following morning, + even those who had performed the sad rites of burial to + their fallen comrade could scarcely have indicated the exact + location of the grave. Yet when we returned to that point + a few weeks later, it was discovered that the wily savages + had found the place, unearthed the body, and removed the + scalp of their victim on the day following the interment.[71] + +After leaving the camp at Supply, the Indians gradually increased +their force, until they mustered about two thousand warriors. +For four days and nights they hovered around the command, and by the +time it reached Mulberry Creek there were not one thousand rounds of +ammunition left in the whole force of troopers and infantrymen. +At the creek, the incessant charges of the now infuriated savages +compelled the troops to use this small amount held in reserve, and +they found themselves almost at the mercy of the Indians. But before +they were absolutely defenceless, Colonel Keogh had sent a trusty +messenger in the night to Fort Dodge for a supply of cartridges to +meet the command at the creek, which fortunately arrived there +in time to save that spot from being a veritable "last ditch." + +The savages, in the little but exciting encounter at the creek before +the ammunition arrived, would ride up boldly toward the squadrons of +cavalry, discharge the shots from their revolvers, and then, in their +rage, throw them at the skirmishers on the flanks of the supply-train, +while the latter, nearly out of ammunition, were compelled to sit +quietly in their saddles, idle spectators of the extraordinary scene.[72] + +Many of the Indians were killed on their ponies, however, by those +who were fortunate enough to have a few cartridges left; but none +were captured, as the savages had taken their usual precaution to +tie themselves to their animals, and as soon as dead were dragged +away by them. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. +INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. + + + +The tourist who to-day, in a palace car, surrounded by all the +conveniences of our American railway service, commences his tour of +the prairies at the Missouri River, enters classic ground the moment +the train leaves the muddy flood of that stream on its swift flight +toward the golden shores of the Pacific. + +He finds a large city at the very portals of the once far West, +with all the bustle and energy which is so characteristic of American +enterprise. + +Gradually, as he is whirled along the iron trail, the woods lessen; +he catches views of beautiful intervales; a bright little stream +flashes and foams in the sunlight as the trees grow fewer, and soon +he emerges on the broad sea of prairie, shut in only by the great +circle of the heavens. + +Dotting this motionless ocean everywhere, like whitened sails, are +quiet homes, real argosies ventured by the sturdy and industrious +people who have fought their way through almost insurmountable +difficulties to the tranquillity which now surrounds them. + +A few miles west of Topeka, the capital of Kansas, when the train +reaches the little hamlet of Wakarusa, the track of the railroad +commences to follow the route of the Old Santa Fe Trail. At that +point, too, the Oregon Trail branches off for the heavily timbered +regions of the Columbia. Now begins the classic ground of the once +famous highway to New Mexico; nearly every stream, hill, and wooded +dell has its story of adventure in those days when the railroad was +regarded as an impossibility, and the region beyond the Missouri as +a veritable desert. + +After some hours' rapid travelling, if our tourist happens to be a +passenger on the "California Limited," the swift train that annihilates +distance, he will pass by towns, hamlets, and immense cattle ranches, +stopping only at county-seats, and enter the justly famous Arkansas +valley at the city of Hutchinson. The Old Trail now passes a few +miles north of this busy place, which is noted for its extensive +salt works, nor does the railroad again meet with it until the site +of old Fort Zarah is reached, forty-seven miles west of Hutchinson, +though it runs nearly parallel to the once great highway at varying +distances for the whole detour. + +The ruins of the once important military post may be seen from the +car-windows on the right, as the train crosses the iron bridge +spanning the Walnut, and here the Old Trail exactly coincides with +the railroad, the track of the latter running immediately on the +old highway. + +Three miles westward from the classic little Walnut the Old Trail ran +through what is now the Court House Square of the town of Great Bend; +it may be seen from the station, and on that very spot occurred the +terrible fight of Captains Booth and Hallowell in 1864. + +Thirteen miles further mountainward, on the right of the railroad, +not far from the track, stands all that remains of the once dreaded +Pawnee Rock. It lies just beyond the limits of the little hamlet +bearing its name. It would not be recognized by any of the old +plainsmen were they to come out of their isolated graves; for it is +only a disintegrated, low mass of sandstone now, utilized for the base +purposes of a corral, in which the village herd of milch cows lie down +at night and chew their cuds, such peaceful transformation has that +great civilizer, the locomotive, wrought in less than two decades. + +Another five or six miles, and the train crosses Ash Creek, which, +too, was once one of the favourite haunts of the Pawnee and Comanche +on their predatory excursions, in the days when the mules and horses +of passing freight caravans excited their cupidity. A short whirl +again, and the town of Larned, lying peacefully on the Arkansas and +Pawnee Fork, is reached. Immediately opposite the centre of the +street through which the railroad runs, and which was also the course +of the Old Trail, lying in the Arkansas River, close to its northern +bank, is a small thickly-wooded island, now reached by a bridge, that +is famous as the battle-ground of a terrible conflict thirty years ago, +between the Pawnees and Cheyennes, hereditary enemies, in which the +latter tribe was cruelly defeated. + +The railroad bridge crosses Pawnee Fork at the precise spot where +the Old Trail did. This locality has been the scene of some of the +bloodiest encounters between the various tribes of savages themselves, +and between them and the freight caravans, the overland coaches, +and every other kind of outfit that formerly attempted the passage of +the now peaceful stream. In fact, the whole region from Walnut Creek +to the mouth of the Pawnee, which includes in its area Ash Creek +and Pawnee Rock, seemed to be the greatest resort for the Indians, +who hovered about the Santa Fe Trail for the sole purpose of robbery +and murder; it was a very lucky caravan or coach, indeed, that passed +through that portion of the route without being attacked. + +All the once dangerous points of the Old Trail having been successively +passed--Cow Creek, Big and Little Coon, and Ash Creek, Fort Dodge, +Fort Aubrey,[73] and Point of Rocks--the tourist arrives at last at +the foot-hills. At La Junta the railroad separates into two branches; +one going to Denver, the other on to New Mexico. Here, a relatively +short distance to the northwest, on the right of the train, may be +seen the ruins of Bent's Fort, the tourist having already passed the +site of the once famous Big Timbers, a favourite winter camping-ground +of the Cheyennes and Arapahoes; but everywhere around him there reigns +such perfect quiet and pastoral beauty, he might imagine that the +peaceful landscape upon which he looks had never been a bloody arena. + +I suggest to the lover of nature that he should cross the Raton Range +in the early morning, or late in the afternoon; for then the +magnificent scenery of the Trail over the high divide into New Mexico +assumes its most beautiful aspect. + +In approaching the range from the Old Trail, or now from the railroad, +their snow-clad peaks may be seen at a distance of sixty miles. +In the era of caravans and pack-trains, for hour after hour, as they +moved slowly toward the goal of their ambition, the summit of the +fearful pathway on the divide, the huge forms of the mountains seemed +to recede, and yet ascend higher. On the next day's journey their +outlines appeared more irregular and ragged. Drawing still nearer, +their base presented a long, dark strip stretching throughout their +whole course, ever widening until it seemed like a fathomless gulf, +separating the world of reality from the realms of imagination beyond. + +Another weary twenty miles of dusty travel, and the black void slowly +dissolved, and out of the shadows lines of broken, sterile, +ferruginous buttes and detached masses of rocks, whose soilless +surface refuses sustenance, save to a few scattered, stunted pines +and lifeless mosses, emerged to view. + +The progress of the weary-footed mules or oxen was now through ravines +and around rocks; up narrow paths which the melting snows have +washed out; sometimes between beetling cliffs, often to their very +edge, where hundreds of feet below the Trail the tall trees seemed +diminished into shrubs. Then again the road led over an immense broad +terrace, for thousands of yards around, with a bright lake gleaming +in the refracted light, and brilliant Alpine plants waving their +beautiful flowers on its margin. Still the coveted summit appeared +so far off as to be beyond the range of vision, and it seemed as if, +instead of ascending, the entire mass underneath had been receding, +like the mountains of ice over which Arctic explorers attempt to reach +the pole. Now the tortuous Trail passed through snow-wreaths which +the winds had eddied into indentations; then over bright, glassy +surfaces of ice and fragments of rocks, until the pinnacle was reached. +Nearer, along the broad successive terraces of the opposite mountains, +the evergreen pine, the cedar, with its stiff, angular branches, and +the cottonwood, with its varied curves and bright colours, were +crowded into bunches or strung into zigzag lines, interspersed with +shrubs and mountain plants, among which the flaming cactus was +conspicuous. To the right and left, the bare cones of the barren +peaks rose in multitude, with their calm, awful forms shrouded in snow, +and their dark shadows reflected far into the valleys, like spectres +from a chaotic world. + +In going through the Raton Pass, the Old Santa Fe Trail meandered up +a steep valley, enclosed on either side by abrupt hills covered with +pine and masses of gray rock. The road ran along the points of +varying elevations, now in the stony bed of Raton Creek, which it +crossed fifty-three times, the sparkling, flitting waters of the +bubbling stream leaping and foaming against the animals' feet as they +hauled the great wagons of the freight caravans over the tortuous +passage. The creek often rushed rapidly under large flat stones, +lost to sight for a moment, then reappearing with a fresh impetus and +dashing over its flinty, uneven bed until it mingled with the pure +waters of Le Purgatoire. + +Still ascending, the scenery assumed a bolder, rougher cast; then +sudden turns gave you hurried glimpses of the great valley below. +A gentle dell sloped to the summit of the pass on the west, then, +rising on the east by a succession of terraces, the bald, bare cliff +was reached, overlooking the whole region for many miles, and this is +Raton Peak.[74] + +The extreme top of this famous peak was only reached after more than +an hour's arduous struggle. On the lofty plateau the caravans and +pack-trains rested their tired animals. Here, too, the lonely trapper, +when crossing the range in quest of beaver, often chose this lofty +spot on which to kindle his little fire and broil juicy steaks of the +black-tail deer, the finest venison in the world; but before he +indulged in the savoury morsels, if he was in the least superstitious +or devout, or inspired by the sublime scene around him, he lighted +his pipe, and after saluting the elevated ridge on which he sat by the +first whiff of the fragrant kinnikinick, Indian-fashion, he in turn +offered homage in the same manner to the sky above him, the earth +beneath, and to the cardinal points of the compass, and was then +prepared to eat his solitary meal in a spirit of thankfulness. + +Far below this magnificent vantage-ground lies the valley of the +Rio Las Animas Perdidas. On the other verge of the great depression +rise the peerless, everlastingly snow-wreathed Spanish Peaks,[75] +whose giant summits are grim sentinels that for untold ages have +witnessed hundreds of sanguinary conflicts between the wily nomads +of the vast plains watered by the silent Arkansas. + +All around you snow-clad mountains lift their serrated crowns above +the horizon, dim, white, and indistinct, like icebergs seen at sea +by moonlight; others, nearer, more rugged, naked of verdure, and +irregular in contour, seem to lose their lofty summits in the intense +blue of the sky. + +Fisher's Peak, which is in full view from the train, was named from +the following circumstance: Captain Fisher was a German artillery +officer commanding a battery in General Kearney's Army of the West in +the conquest of New Mexico and was encamped at the base of the peak +to which he involuntarily gave his name. He was intently gazing at +the lofty summit wrapped in the early mist, and not being familiar +with the illusory atmospheric effects of the region, he thought that +to go there would be merely a pleasant promenade. So, leaving word +that he would return to breakfast, he struck out at a brisk walk for +the crest. That whole day, the following night, and the succeeding +day, dragged their weary hours on, but no tidings of the commanding +officer were received at the battery, and ill rumours were current +of his death by Indians or bears, when, just as his mess were about +to take their seats at the table for the evening meal, their captain +put in an appearance, a very tired but a wiser man. He started to go +to the peak, and he went there! + +On the summit of another rock-ribbed elevation close by, the tourist +will notice the shaft of an obelisk. It is over the grave of George +Simpson, once a noted mountaineer in the days of the great fur +companies. For a long time he made his home there, and it was his +dying request that the lofty peak he loved so well while living should +be his last resting-place. The peak is known as "Simpson's Rest," +and is one of the notable features of the rugged landscape. + +Pike's Peak, far away to the north, intensely white and silvery in the +clear sky, hangs like a great dome high in the region of the clouds, +a marked object, worthy to commemorate the indefatigable efforts of +the early voyageur whose name it bears. + +In this wonderful locality, both Pike's Peak and the snowy range over +two hundred miles from our point of observation really seem to the +uninitiated as if a brisk walk of an hour or two would enable one to +reach them, so deceptive is the atmosphere of these elevated regions. + +About two miles from the crest of the range, yet over seven thousand +feet above the sea-level, in a pretty little depression about as +large as a medium-sized corn-field in the Eastern States, Uncle +Dick Wooton lived, and here, too, was his toll-gate. The veteran +mountaineer erected a substantial house of adobe, after the style +of one of the old-time Southern plantation residences, a memory, +perhaps, of his youth, when he raised tobacco in his father's fields +in Kentucky.[76] + +The most charming hour in which to be on the crest of Raton Range is +in the afternoon, when the weather is clear and calm. As the night +comes on apace in the distant valley beneath, the evening shadows +drop down, pencilled with broad bands of rosy light as they creep +slowly across the beautiful landscape, while the rugged vista below +is enveloped in a diffused haze like that which marks the season of +the Indian summer in the lower great plains. Above, the sky curves +toward the relatively restricted horizon, with not a cloud to dim +its intense blue, nowhere so beautiful as in these lofty altitudes. + +The sun, however, does not always shine resplendently; there are +times when the most terrific storms of wind, hail, and rain change +the entire aspect of the scene. Fortunately, these violent bursts +never last long; they vanish as rapidly as they come, leaving in +their wake the most phenomenally beautiful rainbows, whose trailing +splendours which they owe to the dry and rare air of the region, and +its high refractory power, are gorgeous in the extreme. + +In 1872 the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad entered the +valley of the Upper Arkansas. Twenty-four years ago, on a delicious +October afternoon, I stood on the absolutely level plateau at the +mouth of Pawnee Fork where that historic creek debouches into the +great river. The remembrance of that view will never pass from my +memory, for it showed a curious temporary blending of two distinct +civilizations. One, the new, marking the course of empire in its +restless march westward; the other, that of the aboriginal, which, +like a dissolving view, was soon to fade away and be forgotten. + +The box-elders and cottonwoods thinly covering the creek-bottom were +gradually donning their autumn dress of russet, and the mirage had +already commenced its fantastic play with the landscape. On the sides +and crests of the sparsely grassed sand hills south of the Arkansas +a few buffaloes were grazing in company with hundreds of Texas cattle, +while in the broad valley beneath, small flocks of graceful antelope +were lying down, quietly ruminating their midday meal. + +In the distance, far eastwardly, a train of cars could be seen +approaching; as far as the eye could reach, on either side of the +track, the virgin sod had been turned to the sun; the "empire of +the plough" was established, and the march of immigration in its +hunger for the horizon had begun. + +Half a mile away from the bridge spanning the Fork, under the grateful +shade of the largest trees, about twenty skin lodges were irregularly +grouped; on the brown sod of the sun-cured grass a herd of a hundred +ponies were lazily feeding, while a troop of dusky little children +were chasing the yellow butterflies from the dried and withered +sunflower stalks which once so conspicuously marked the well-worn +highway to the mountains. These Indians, the remnant of a tribe +powerful in the years of savage sovereignty, were on their way, +in charge of their agent, to their new homes, on the reservation +just allotted to them by the government, a hundred miles south of +the Arkansas. + +Their primitive lodges contrasted strangely with the peaceful little +sod-houses, dugouts, and white cottages of the incoming settlers on +the public lands, with the villages struggling into existence, and +above all with the rapidly moving cars; unmistakable evidences that +the new civilization was soon to sweep the red men before it like +chaff before the wind. + +Farther to the west, a caravan of white-covered wagons loaded with +supplies for some remote military post, the last that would ever +travel the Old Trail, was slowly crawling toward the setting sun. +I watched it until only a cloud of dust marked its place low down +on the horizon, and it was soon lost sight of in the purple mist +that was rapidly overspreading the far-reaching prairie. + +It was the beginning of the end; on the 9th of February, 1880, the +first train over the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad arrived +at Santa Fe and the Old Trail as a route of commerce was closed +forever. The once great highway is now only a picture in the memory +of the few who have travelled its weary course, following the windings +of the silent Arkansas, on to the portals that guard the rugged +pathway leading to the shores of the blue Pacific. + + + + +FOOTNOTES. + + + +[1] The whole country watered by the Mississippi and Missouri was +called Florida at that time. + +[2] The celebrated Jesuit, author of _The History of New France_, +_Journals of a Voyage to North America_, _Letters to the Duchess_, etc. + +[3] Otoes. + +[4] Iowas. + +[5] Boulevard, Promenade. + +[6] Notes of a Military Reconnoissance from Fort Leavenworth, +in Missouri, to San Diego, in California, including parts of the +Arkansas, Del Norte, and Gila Rivers. Brevet Major W. H. Emory, +Corps of Topographical Engineers, United States Army, 1846. + +[7] Hon. W. F. Arny, in his Centennial Celebration Address at Santa Fe, +July 4, 1876. + +[8] Edwards, _Conquest of New Mexico_. + +[9] I think this is Bancroft's idea. + +[10] _Historical Sketches of New Mexico_, L. Bradford Prince, late +Chief Justice of New Mexico, 1883. + +[11] D. H. Coyner, 1847. + +[12] He was travelling parallel to the Old Santa Fe Trail all the time, +but did not know it until he was overtaken by a band of Kaw Indians. + +[13] McKnight was murdered south of the Arkansas by the Comanches +in the winter of 1822. + +[14] Chouteau's Island. + +[15] _Hennepin's Journal_. + +[16] The line between the United States and Mexico (or New Spain, +as it was called) was defined by a treaty negotiated in 1819, +between the Chevalier de Onis, then Spanish minister at Washington, +and John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State. According to its +provisions, the boundary between Mexico and Louisiana, which had been +added to the Union, commenced with the river Sabine at its entrance +into the Gulf of Mexico, at about the twenty-ninth degree of north +latitude and the ninety-fourth degree of longitude, west from +Greenwich, and followed it as far as its junction with the Red River +of Natchitoches, which then served to mark the frontier up to the +one hundredth degree of west longitude, where the line ran directly +north to the Arkansas, which it followed to its source at the +forty-second degree of north latitude, whence another straight line +was drawn up the same parallel to the Pacific coast. + +[17] This tribe kept up its reputation under the dreaded Satanta, +until 1868--a period of forty years--when it was whipped into +submission by the gallant Custer. Satanta was its war chief, +one of the most cruel savages the great plains ever produced. +He died a few years ago in the state prison of Texas. + +[18] McNess Creek is on the old Cimarron Trail to Santa Fe, a little +east of a line drawn south from Bent's Fort. + +[19] Mr. Bryant, of Kansas, who died a few years ago, was one of +the pioneers in the trade with Santa Fe. Previous to his decease +he wrote for a Kansas newspaper a narrative of his first trip across +the great plains; an interesting monograph of hardship and suffering. +For the use of this document I am indebted to Hon. Sol. Miller, +the editor of the journal in which it originally appeared. I have +also used very extensively the notes of Mr. William Y. Hitt, one of +the Bryant party, whose son kindly placed them at my disposal, and +copied liberally from the official report of Major Bennett Riley-- +afterward the celebrated general of Mexican War fame, and for whom +the Cavalry Depot in Kansas is named; as also from the journal of +Captain Philip St. George Cooke, who accompanied Major Riley on +his expedition. + +[20] Chouteau's Island, at the mouth of Sand Creek. + +[21] Valley of the Upper Arkansas. + +[22] About three miles east of the town of Great Bend, Barton County, +Kansas. + +[23] The Old Santa Fe Trail crosses the creek some miles north of +Hutchinson, and coincides with the track again at the mouth of +Walnut Creek, three miles east of Great Bend. + +[24] There are many conflicting accounts in regard to the sum +Don Antonio carried with him on that unfortunate trip. Some +authorities put it as high as sixty thousand; I have taken a mean +of the various sums, and as this method will suffice in mathematics, +perhaps we can approximate the truth in this instance. + +[25] General Emory of the Union army during the Civil War. He made +an official report of the country through which the Army of the West +passed, accompanied by maps, and his _Reconnoissance in New Mexico +and California_, published by the government in 1848, is the first +authentic record of the region, considered topographically and +geologically. + +[26] _Doniphan's Expedition, containing an account of the Conquest +of New Mexico_, etc. John T. Hughes, A.B., of the First Regiment +of Missouri Cavalry. 1850. + +[27] Deep Gorge. + +[28] Colonel Leavenworth, for whom Fort Leavenworth is named, and +who built several army posts in the far West. + +[29] Colonel A. G. Boone, a grandson of the immortal Daniel, was one +of the grandest old mountaineers I ever knew. He was as loyal as +anybody, but honest in his dealings with the Indians, and that was +often a fault in the eyes of those at Washington who controlled +these agents. Kit Carson was of the same honest class as Boone, +and he, too, was removed for the same cause. + +[30] A narrow defile on the Trail, about ninety miles east of +Fort Union. It is called the "canyon of the Canadian, or Red, River," +and is situated between high walls of earth and rock. It was once +a very dangerous spot on account of the ease and rapidity with which +the savages could ambush themselves. + +[31] Carson, Wooton, and all other expert mountaineers, when following +a trail, could always tell just what time had elapsed since it was +made. This may seem strange to the uninitiated, but it was part +of their necessary education. They could tell what kind of a track +it was, which way the person or animal had walked, and even the tribe +to which the savage belonged, either by the shape of the moccasin +or the arrows which were occasionally dropped. + +[32] Lieutenant Bell belonged to the Second Dragoons. He was +conspicuous in extraordinary marches and in action, and also an +accomplished horseman and shot, once running and killing five buffalo +in a quarter of a mile. He died early in 1861, and his death was +a great loss to the service. + +[33] Known to this day as "The Cheyenne Bottoms." + +[34] Lone Wolf was really the head chief of the Kiowas. + +[35] The battle lasted three days. + +[36] Kicking Bird was ever afterward so regarded by the authorities +of the Indian department. + +[37] Lorenzo Thomas, adjutant-general of the United States army. + +[38] Kendall's _Santa Fe Expedition_ may be found in all the large +libraries. + +[39] A summer-house, bower, or arbour. + +[40] Frank Hall, Chicago, 1885. + +[41] The greater portion of this chapter I originally wrote for +_Harper's Weekly_. By the kind permission of the publishers, I am +permitted to use it here. + +[42] These statistics I have carefully gathered from the freight +departments of the railroads, which kept a record of all the bones +that were shipped, and from the purchasers of the carbon works, +who paid out the money at various points. Some of the bones, however, +may have been on the ground for a longer time, as decay is very slow +in the dry air of the plains. + +[43] La Jeunesse was one of the bravest of the old French Canadian +trappers. He was a warm friend of Kit Carson and was killed by the +Indians in the following manner. They were camping one night in the +mountains; Kit, La Jeunesse, and others had wrapped themselves up +in their blankets near the fire, and were sleeping soundly; Fremont +sat up until after midnight reading letters he had received from +the United States, after finishing which, he, too, turned in and +fell asleep. Everything was quiet for a while, when Kit was awakened +by a noise that sounded like the stroke of an axe. Rising cautiously, +he discovered Indians in the camp; he gave the alarm at once, +but two of his companions were dead. One of them was La Jeunesse, +and the noise he had heard was the tomahawk as it buried itself +in the brave fellow's head. + +[44] This black is made from a species of plumbago found on the hills +of the region. + +[45] The Pawnees and Cheyennes were hereditary enemies, and they +frequently met in sanguinary conflict. + +[46] A French term Anglicised, as were many other foreign words by +the trappers in the mountains. Its literal meaning is, arrow fender, +for from it the plains Indians construct their shields; it is +buffalo-hide prepared in a certain manner. + +[47] Boiling Spring River. + +[48] For some reason the Senate refused to confirm the appointment, +and he had consequently no connection with the regular army. + +[49] Point of Rocks is six hundred and forty seven miles from +Independence, and was always a favourite place of resort for the +Indians of the great plains; consequently it was one of the most +dangerous camping-spots for the freight caravans on the Trail. +It comprises a series of continuous hills, which project far out on +the prairie in bold relief. They end abruptly in a mass of rocks, +out of which gushes a cold, refreshing spring, which is, of course, +the main attraction of the place. The Trail winds about near this +point, and many encounters with the various tribes have occurred there. + +[50] "Little Mountain." + +[51] General Gatlin was a North Carolinian, and seceded with his +State at the breaking out of the Rebellion, but refused to leave +his native heath to fight, so indelibly was he impressed with the +theory of State rights. He was willing to defend the soil of +North Carolina, but declined to step across its boundary to repel +invasion in other States. + +[52] The name of "Crow," as applied to the once powerful nation +of mountain Indians, is a misnomer, the fault of some early +interpreter. The proper appellation is "Sparrowhawks," but they +are officially recognized as "Crows." + +[53] Kit Carson, ten years before, when on his first journey, met +with the same adventure while on post at Pawnee Rock. + +[54] The fusee was a fire-lock musket with an immense bore, from +which either slugs or balls could be shot, although not with any +great degree of accuracy. + +[55] The Indians always knew when the caravans were to pass certain +points on the Trail, by their runners or spies probably. + +[56] It was one of the rigid laws of Indian hospitality always to +respect the person of any one who voluntarily entered their camps +or temporary halting-places. As long as the stranger, red or white, +remained with them, he enjoyed perfect immunity from harm; but after +he had left, although he had progressed but half a mile, it was just +as honourable to follow and kill him. + +[57] In their own fights with their enemies one or two of the +defeated party are always spared, and sent back to their tribe to +carry the news of the slaughter. + +[58] The story of the way in which this name became corrupted into +"Picketwire," by which it is generally known in New Mexico, is this: +When Spain owned all Mexico and Florida, as the vast region of the +Mississippi valley was called, long before the United States had +an existence as a separate government, the commanding officer at +Santa Fe received an order to open communication with the country +of Florida. For this purpose an infantry regiment was selected. +It left Santa Fe rather late in the season, and wintered at a point +on the Old Trail now known as Trinidad. In the spring, the colonel, +leaving all camp-followers behind him, both men and women, marched +down the stream, which flows for many miles through a magnificent +canyon. Not one of the regiment returned or was ever heard of. +When all hope had departed from the wives, children, and friends +left behind at Trinidad, information was sent to Santa Fe, and a wail +went up through the land. The priests and people then called this +stream "El Rio de las Animas Perditas" ("The river of lost souls"). +Years after, when the Spanish power was weakened, and French trappers +came into the country under the auspices of the great fur companies, +they adopted a more concise name; they called the river "Le Purgatoire." +Then came the Great American Bull-Whacker. Utterly unable to twist +his tongue into any such Frenchified expression, he called the stream +with its sad story "Picketwire," and by that name it is known to all +frontiersmen, trappers, and the settlers along its banks. + +[59] The ranch is now in charge of Mr. Harry Whigham, an English +gentleman, who keeps up the old hospitality of the famous place. + +[60] "River of Souls." The stream is also called Le Purgatoire, +corrupted by the Americans into Picketwire. + +[61] Pawnee Rock is no longer conspicuous. Its material has been +torn away by both the railroad and the settlers in the vicinity, +to build foundations for water-tanks, in the one instance, and for +the construction of their houses, barns, and sheds, in the other. +Nothing remains of the once famous landmark; its site is occupied +as a cattle corral by the owner of the claim in which it is included. + +[62] The crossing of the Old Santa Fe Trail at Pawnee Fork is now +within the corporate limits of the pretty little town of Larned, +the county-seat of Pawnee County. The tourist from his car-window +may look right down upon one of the worst places for Indians that +there was in those days of the commerce of the prairies, as the road +crosses the stream at the exact spot where the Trail crossed it. + +[63] This was a favourite expression of his whenever he referred +to any trouble with the Indians. + +[64] Indians will risk the lives of a dozen of their best warriors +to prevent the body of any one of their number from falling into +the white man's possession. The reason for this is the belief, +which prevails among all tribes, that if a warrior loses his scalp +he forfeits his hope of ever reaching the happy hunting-ground. + +[65] It was in this fight that the infamous Charles Bent received +his death-wound. + +[66] The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad track runs very +close to the mound, and there is a station named for the great mesa. + +[67] The venerable Colonel A. S. Johnson, of Topeka, Kansas, +the first white child born on the great State's soil, who related +to me this adventure of Hatcher's, knew him well. He says that he +was a small man, full of muscle, and as fearless as can be conceived. + +[68] The place where they turned is about a hundred yards east of +the Court House Square, in the present town of Great Bend; it may +be seen from the cars. + +[69] See Sheridan's _Memoirs_, Custer's _Life on the Plains_, and +Buffalo Bill's book, in which all the stirring events of that +campaign--nearly every fight of which was north or far south of the +Santa Fe Trail--are graphically told. + +[70] A grandson of Alexander Hamilton; killed at the battle of the +Washita, in the charge on Black Kettle's camp under Custer. + +[71] This ends Custer's narrative. The following fight, which +occurred a few days afterward, at the mouth of Mulberry Creek, +twelve miles below Fort Dodge, and within a stone's throw of the +Old Trail, was related to me personally by Colonel Keogh, who was +killed at the Rosebud, in Custer's disastrous battle with Sitting Bull. +We were both attached to General Sully's staff. + +[72] It was in this fight that Colonel Keogh's celebrated horse +Comanche received his first wound. It will be remembered that +Comanche and a Crow Indian were the only survivors of that unequal +contest in the valley of the Big Horn, commonly called the battle +of the Rosebud, where Custer and his command was massacred. + +[73] Now Kendall, a little village in Hamilton County, Kansas. + +[74] Raton is the name given by the early Spaniards to this range, +meaning both mouse and squirrel. It had its origin either in the +fact that one of its several peaks bore a fanciful resemblance to +a squirrel, or because of the immense numbers of that little rodent +always to be found in its pine forests. + +[75] In the beautiful language of the country's early conquerors, +"Las Cumbres Espanolas," or "Las dos Hermanas" (The Two Sisters), +and in the Ute tongue, "Wahtoya" (The Twins). + +[76] The house was destroyed by fire two or three years ago. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + +This file should be named 8osft10.txt or 8osft10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8osft11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8osft10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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