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diff --git a/7984-h/7984-h.htm b/7984-h/7984-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..634d2cf --- /dev/null +++ b/7984-h/7984-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,17719 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Old Santa Fe Trail, by Colonel Henry Inman + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Old Santa Fe Trail, by Henry Inman + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Old Santa Fe Trail + The Story of a Great Highway + +Author: Henry Inman + +Commentator: W. F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody + +Release Date: August 7, 2009 [EBook #7984] +Last Updated: January 26, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + + + + +Produced by Michael S. Overton, and David Widger + + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL + </h1> + <h2> + THE STORY OF A GREAT HIGHWAY + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Colonel Henry Inman + </h2> + <h4> + Late Assistant Quartermaster, United States Army + </h4> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + With a Preface by W. F. "BUFFALO BILL" CODY + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PREFACE. + </h2> + <p> + As we look into the open fire for our fancies, so we are apt to study the + dim past for the wonderful and sublime, forgetful of the fact that the + present is a constant romance, and that the happenings of to-day which we + count of little importance are sure to startle somebody in the future, and + engage the pen of the historian, philosopher, and poet. + </p> + <p> + Accustomed as we are to think of the vast steppes of Russia and Siberia as + alike strange and boundless, and to deal with the unknown interior of + Africa as an impenetrable mystery, we lose sight of a locality in our own + country that once surpassed all these in virgin grandeur, in majestic + solitude, and in all the attributes of a tremendous wilderness. + </p> + <p> + The story of the Old Santa Fe Trail, so truthfully recalled by Colonel + Henry Inman, ex-officer of the old Regular Army, in these pages, is a most + thrilling one. The vast area through which the famous highway ran is still + imperfectly known to most people as "The West"; a designation once + appropriate, but hardly applicable now; for in these days of easy + communication the real trail region is not so far removed from New York as + Buffalo was seventy years ago. + </p> + <p> + At the commencement of the "commerce of the prairies," in the early + portion of the century, the Old Trail was the arena of almost constant + sanguinary struggles between the wily nomads of the desert and the hardy + white pioneers, whose eventful lives made the civilization of the vast + interior region of our continent possible. Their daring compelled its + development, which has resulted in the genesis of great states and large + cities. Their hardships gave birth to the American homestead; their + determined will was the factor of possible achievements, the most + remarkable and important of modern times. + </p> + <p> + When the famous highway was established across the great plains as a line + of communication to the shores of the blue Pacific, the only method of + travel was by the slow freight caravan drawn by patient oxen, or the + lumbering stage coach with its complement of four or six mules. There was + ever to be feared an attack by those devils of the desert, the Cheyennes, + Comanches, and Kiowas. Along its whole route the remains of men, animals, + and the wrecks of camps and wagons, told a story of suffering, robbery, + and outrage more impressive than any language. Now the tourist or business + man makes the journey in palace cars, and there is nothing to remind him + of the danger or desolation of Border days; on every hand are the + evidences of a powerful and advanced civilization. + </p> + <p> + It is fortunate that one is left to tell some of its story who was a + living actor and had personal knowledge of many of the thrilling scenes + that were enacted along the line of the great route. He was familiar with + all the famous men, both white and savage, whose lives have made the story + of the Trail, his own sojourn on the plains and in the Rocky Mountains + extending over a period of nearly forty years. + </p> + <p> + The Old Trail has more than common interest for me, and I gladly record + here my indorsement of the faithful record, compiled by a brave soldier, + old comrade, and friend. + </p> + <p> + W. F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill." + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE. </a><br /><br /> <a + href="#link2H_TOC"> DETAILED CONTENTS. </a><br /><br /> <a + href="#link2H_INTR"> INTRODUCTION. </a><br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0001"> + CHAPTER I. </a> UNDER THE SPANIARDS <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> LA LANDE AND PURSLEY + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> EARLY + TRADERS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> TRAINS + AND PACKERS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> FIGHT + WITH COMANCHES <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. </a> A + ROMANTIC TRAGEDY <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> MEXICO + DECLARES WAR <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> THE + VALLEY OF TAOS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> FIRST + OVERLAND MAIL <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> CHARLES + BENT <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. </a> LA + GLORIETA <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> THE + BUFFALO <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> INDIAN + CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. + </a> TRAPPERS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. + </a> UNCLE JOHN SMITH <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016"> + CHAPTER XVI. </a> KIT CARSON <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> UNCLE DICK WOOTON + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. </a> MAXWELL'S + RANCH <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> BENT'S + FORTS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. </a> PAWNEE + ROCK <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> FOOLING + STAGE ROBBERS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. </a> A + DESPERATE RIDE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. </a> HANCOCK'S + EXPEDITION <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. </a> INVASION + OF THE RAILROAD <br /><br /> <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES. </a><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_TOC" id="link2H_TOC"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + DETAILED CONTENTS. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + INTRODUCTION. + The First Europeans who traversed the Great Highway—Alvar Nunez + Cabeca de Vaca—Hernando de Soto, and Francisco Vasquez de Coronado— + Spanish Expedition from Santa Fe eastwardly—Escape of the Sole Survivors. + + CHAPTER I. + UNDER THE SPANIARDS. + Quaint Descriptions of Old Santa Fe—The Famous Adobe Palace— + Santa Fe the Oldest Town in the United States—First Settlement— + Onate's Conquest—Revolt of the Pueblo Indians—Under Pueblo Rule + —Cruelties of the Victors—The Santa Fe of To-day—Arrival of + a Caravan—The Railroad reaches the Town—Amusements—A Fandango. + + CHAPTER II. + LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. + The Beginning of the Santa Fe Trade—La Lande and Pursley, + the First Americans to cross the Plains—Pursley's Patriotism— + Captain Ezekiel Williams—A Hungry Bear—A Midnight Alarm. + + CHAPTER III. + EARLY TRADERS. + Captain Becknell's Expedition—Sufferings from Thirst—Auguste + Chouteau—Imprisonment of McKnight and Chambers—The Caches— + Stampeding Mules—First Military Escort across the Plains— + Captain Zebulon Pike—Sublette and Smith—Murder of McNess— + Indians not the Aggressors. + + CHAPTER IV. + TRAINS AND PACKERS. + The Atajo or Pack-train of Mules—Mexican Nomenclature of + Paraphernalia—Manner of Packing—The "Bell-mare"—Toughness of + Mules among Precipices—The Caravan of Wagons—Largest Wagon-train + ever on the Plains—Stampedes—Duties of Packers en route—Order of + Travelling with Pack-train—Chris. Gilson, the Famous Packer. + + CHAPTER V. + FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. + Narrative of Bryant's Party of Santa Fe Traders—The First Wagon + Expedition across the Plains—A Thrilling Story of Hardship and + Physical Suffering—Terrible Fight with the Comanches—Abandonment + of the Wagons—On Foot over the Trail—Burial of their Specie + on an Island in the Arkansas—Narrative of William Y. Hitt, + one of the Party—His Encounter with a Comanche—The First Escort + of United States Troops to the Annual Caravan of Santa Fe Traders, + in 1829—Major Bennett Riley's Official Report to the War Department + —Journal of Captain Cooke. + + CHAPTER VI. + A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. + The Expedition of Texans to the Old Santa Fe Trail for the Purpose + of robbing Mexican Traders—Innocent Citizens of the United States + suspected, arrested, and carried to the Capital of New Mexico— + Colonel Snively's Force—Warfield's Sacking of the Village of Mora + —Attack upon a Mexican Caravan—Kit Carson in the Fight— + A Crime of over Sixty Years Ago—A Romance of the Tragedy. + + CHAPTER VII. + MEXICO DECLARES WAR. + Mexico declares War against the United States—Congress authorizes + the President to call for Fifty Thousand Volunteers—Organization of + the Army of the West—Phenomenon seen by Santa Fe Traders in the Sky + —First Death on the March of the Army across the Plains—Men in + a Starving Condition—Another Death—Burial near Pawnee Rock— + Trouble at Pawnee Fork—Major Howard's Report. + + CHAPTER VIII. + THE VALLEY OF TAOS. + The Valley of Taos—First White Settler—Rebellion of the Mexicans + —A Woman discovers and informs Colonel Price of the Conspiracy— + Assassination of Governor Bent—Horrible Butcheries by the Pueblos + and Mexicans—Turley's Ranch—Murder of Harwood and Markhead— + Anecdote of Sir William Drummond Stewart—Fight at the Mills— + Battle of the Pueblo of Taos—Trial of the Insurrectionists— + Baptiste, the Juror—Execution of the Rebels. + + CHAPTER IX. + FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. + Independence—Opening of Navigation on the Mississippi—Effect of + Water Transportation upon the Trade—Establishment of Trading-forts— + Market for Cattle and Mules—Wages paid Teamsters on the Trail— + An Enterprising Coloured Man—Increase of the Trade at the Close of + the Mexican War—Heavy Emigration to California—First Overland Mail + —How the Guards were armed—Passenger Coaches to Santa Fe— + Stage-coaching Days. + + CHAPTER X. + CHARLES BENT. + The Tragedy in the Canyon of the Canadian—Dragoons follow the Trail + of the Savages—Kit Carson, Dick Wooton, and Tom Tobin the Scouts + of the Expedition—More than a Hundred of the Savages killed— + Murder of Mrs. White—White Wolf—Lieutenant Bell's Singular Duel + with the Noted Savage—Old Wolf—Satank—Murder of Peacock— + Satanta made Chief—Kicking Bird—His Tragic Death—Charles Bent, + the Half-breed Renegade—His Terrible Acts—His Death. + + CHAPTER XI. + LA GLORIETA. + Neglect of New Mexico by the United States Government—Intended + Conquest of the Province—Conspiracy of Southern Leaders— + Surrender by General Twiggs to the Confederate Government of the + Military Posts and Munitions of War under his Command—Only One + Soldier out of Two Thousand deserts to the Enemy—Organization + of Volunteers for the Defence of Colorado and New Mexico— + Battle of La Glorieta—Rout of the Rebels. + + CHAPTER XII. + THE BUFFALO. + The Ancient Range of the Buffalo—Number slaughtered in Thirteen Years + for their Robes alone—Buffalo Bones—Trains stopped by Vast Herds— + Custom of Old Hunters when caught in a Blizzard—Anecdotes of + Buffalo Hunting—Kit Carson's Dilemma—Experience of Two of Fremont's + Hunters—Wounded Buffalo Bull—O'Neil's Laughable Experience— + Organization of a Herd of Buffalo—Stampedes—Thrilling Escapes. + + CHAPTER XIII. + INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. + Big Timbers—Winter Camp of the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes— + Savage Amusements—A Cheyenne Lodge—Indian Etiquette—Treatment + of Children—The Pipe of the North American Savage—Dog Feast— + Marriage Ceremony. + + CHAPTER XIV. + TRAPPERS. + The Old Pueblo Fort—A Celebrated Rendezvous—Its Inhabitants— + "Fontaine qui Bouille"—The Legend of its Origin—The Trappers + of the Old Santa Fe Trail and the Rocky Mountains—Beaver Trapping— + Habits of the Beaver—Improvidence of the Old Trappers—Trading with + "Poor Lo"—The Strange Experience of a Veteran Trapper on the + Santa Fe Trail—Romantic Marriage of Baptiste Brown. + + CHAPTER XV. + UNCLE JOHN SMITH. + Uncle John Smith—A Famous Trapper, Guide, and Interpreter— + His Marriage with a Cheyenne Squaw—An Autocrat among the People + of the Plains and Mountains—The Mexicans held him in Great Dread— + His Wonderful Resemblance to President Andrew Johnson—Interpreter + and Guide on General Sheridan's Winter Expedition against the + Allied Plains Tribes—His Stories around the Camp-fire. + + CHAPTER XVI. + KIT CARSON. + Famous Men of the Old Santa Fe Trail—Kit Carson—Jim Bridger— + James P. Beckwourth—Uncle Dick Wooton—Jim Baker—Lucien B. + Maxwell—Old Bill Williams—Tom Tobin—James Hobbs. + + CHAPTER XVII. + UNCLE DICK WOOTON. + Uncle Dick Wooton—Lucien B. Maxwell—Old Bill Williams—Tom Tobin— + James Hobbs—William F. Cody (Buffalo Bill). + + CHAPTER XVIII. + MAXWELL'S RANCH. + Maxwell's Ranch on the Old Santa Fe Trail—A Picturesque Region— + Maxwell a Trapper and Hunter with the American Fur Company— + Lifelong Comrade of Kit Carson—Sources of Maxwell's Wealth— + Fond of Horse-racing—A Disastrous Fourth-of-July Celebration + —Anecdote of Kit Carson—Discovery of Gold on the Ranch— + The Big Ditch—Issuing Beef to the Ute Indians—Camping out with + Maxwell and Carson—A Story of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + + CHAPTER XIX. + BENT'S FORTS. + The Bents' Several Forts—Famous Trading-posts—Rendezvous of the + Rocky Mountain Trappers—Castle William and Incidents connected + with the Noted Place—Bartering with the Indians—Annual Feast + of Arapahoes and Cheyennes—Old Wolf's First Visit to Bent's Fort— + The Surprise of the Savages—Stories told by Celebrated Frontiersmen + around the Camp-fire. + + CHAPTER XX. + PAWNEE ROCK. + Pawnee Rock—A Debatable Region of the Indian Tribes—The most + Dangerous Point on the Central Plains in the Days of the Early + Santa Fe Trade—Received its Name in a Baptism of Blood— + Battle-ground of the Pawnees and Cheyennes—Old Graves on the + Summit of the Rock—Kit Carson's First Fight at the Rock with + the Pawnees—Kills his Mule by Mistake—Colonel St. Vrain's + Brilliant Charge—Defeat of the Savages—The Trappers' Terrible + Battle with the Pawnees—The Massacre at Cow Creek. + + CHAPTER XXI. + FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. + Wagon Mound—John L. Hatcher's Thrilling Adventure with Old Wolf, + the War-chief of the Comanches—Incidents on the Trail—A Boy + Bugler's Happy Escape from the Savages at Fort Union—A Drunken + Stage-driver—How an Officer of the Quartermaster's Department + at Washington succeeded in starting the Military Freight Caravans + a Month Earlier than the Usual Time—How John Chisholm fooled + the Stage-robbers—The Story of Half a Plug of Tobacco. + + CHAPTER XXII. + A DESPERATE RIDE. + Solitary Graves along the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail—The Walnut + Crossing—Fort Zarah—The Graves on Hon. D. Heizer's Ranch on + the Walnut—Troops stationed at the Crossing of the Walnut— + A Terrible Five Miles—The Cavalry Recruit's Last Ride. + + CHAPTER XXIII. + HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. + General Hancock's Expedition against the Plains Indians—Terrible + Snow-storm at Fort Larned—Meeting with the Chiefs of the + Dog-Soldiers—Bull Bear's Diplomacy—Meeting of the United States + Troops and the Savages in Line of Battle—Custer's Night Experience— + The Surgeon and Dog Stew—Destruction of the Village by Fire— + General Sully's Fight with the Kiowas, Comanches, and Arapahoes— + Finding the Skeletons of the Unfortunate Men—The Savages' Report + of the Affair. + + CHAPTER XXIV. + INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. + Scenery on the Line of the Old Santa Fe Trail—The Great Plains— + The Arkansas Valley—Over the Rocky Mountains into New Mexico— + The Raton Range—The Spanish Peaks—Simpson's Rest—Fisher's Peak + —Raton Peak—Snowy Range—Pike's Peak—Raton Creek—The Invasion + of the Railroad—The Old Santa Fe Trail a Thing of the Past. + + FOOTNOTES. + + PUBLICATION INFORMATION. +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + INTRODUCTION. + </h2> + <p> + For more than three centuries, a period extending from 1541 to 1851, + historians believed, and so announced to the literary world, that + Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, the celebrated Spanish explorer, in his + search for the Seven Cities of Cibola and the Kingdom of Quivira, was the + first European to travel over the intra-continent region of North America. + In the last year above referred to, however, Buckingham Smith, of Florida, + an eminent Spanish scholar, and secretary of the American Legation at + Madrid, discovered among the archives of State the <i>Narrative of Alvar + Nunez Cabeca de Vaca</i>, where for nearly three hundred years it had + lain, musty and begrimed with the dust of ages, an unread and forgotten + story of suffering that has no parallel in fiction. The distinguished + antiquarian unearthed the valuable manuscript from its grave of oblivion, + translated it into English, and gave it to the world of letters; + conferring honour upon whom honour was due, and tearing the laurels from + such grand voyageurs and discoverers as De Soto, La Salle, and Coronado, + upon whose heads history had erroneously placed them, through no fault, or + arrogance, however, of their own. + </p> + <p> + Cabeca, beyond any question, travelled the Old Santa Fe Trail for many + miles, crossed it where it intersects the Arkansas River, a little east of + Fort William or Bent's Fort, and went thence on into New Mexico, following + the famous highway as far, at least, as Las Vegas. Cabeca's march + antedated that of Coronado by five years. To this intrepid Spanish + voyageur we are indebted for the first description of the American bison, + or buffalo as the animal is erroneously called. While not so quaint in its + language as that of Coronado's historian, a lustrum later, the statement + cannot be perverted into any other reference than to the great shaggy + monsters of the plains:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Cattle come as far as this. I have seen them three times + and eaten of their meat. I think they are about the size + of those of Spain. They have small horns like the cows + of Morocco, and the hair very long and flocky, like that + of the merino; some are light brown, others black. To my + judgment the flesh is finer and fatter than that of this + country. The Indians make blankets of the hides of those + not full grown. They range over a district of more than + four hundred leagues, and in the whole extent of plain over + which they run the people that inhabit near there descend + and live on them and scatter a vast many skins throughout + the country. +</pre> + <p> + It will be remembered by the student of the early history of our country, + that when Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca, a follower of the unfortunate + Panphilo de Narvaez, and who had been long thought dead, landed in Spain, + he gave such glowing accounts of Florida<a href="#linknote-1" + name="linknoteref-1" id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> and the + neighbouring regions that the whole kingdom was in a ferment, and many a + heart panted to emigrate to a land where the fruits were perennial, and + where it was thought flowed the fabled fountain of youth. + </p> + <p> + Three expeditions to that country had already been tried: one undertaken + in 1512, by Juan Ponce de Leon, formerly a companion of Columbus; another + in 1520, by Vasquez de Allyon; and another by Panphilo de Narvaez. All of + these had signally failed, the bones of most of the leaders and their + followers having been left to bleach upon the soil they had come to + conquer. + </p> + <p> + The unfortunate issue of the former expeditions did not operate as a check + upon the aspiring mind of De Soto, but made him the more anxious to spring + as an actor into the arena which had been the scene of the discomfiture + and death of the hardy chivalry of the kingdom. He sought an audience of + the emperor, and the latter, after hearing De Soto's proposition that, "he + could conquer the country known as Florida at his own expense," conferred + upon him the title of "Governor of Cuba and Florida." + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of April, 1538, De Soto sailed from Spain with an armament of + ten vessels and a splendidly equipped army of nine hundred chosen men, + amidst the roar of cannons and the inspiring strains of martial music. + </p> + <p> + It is not within the province of this work to follow De Soto through all + his terrible trials on the North American continent; the wonderful story + may be found in every well-organized library. It is recorded, however, + that some time during the year 1542, his decimated army, then under the + command of Luis de Moscoso, De Soto having died the previous May, was + camped on the Arkansas River, far upward towards what is now Kansas. It + was this command, too, of the unfortunate but cruel De Soto, that saw the + Rocky Mountains from the east. The chronicler of the disastrous journey + towards the mountains says: "The entire route became a trail of fire and + blood," as they had many a desperate struggle with the savages of the + plains, who "were of gigantic structure, and fought with heavy strong + clubs, with the desperation of demons. Such was their tremendous strength, + that one of these warriors was a match for a Spanish soldier, though + mounted on a horse, armed with a sword and cased in armour!" + </p> + <p> + Moscoso was searching for Coronado, and he was one of the most humane of + all the officers of De Soto's command, for he evidently bent every energy + to extricate his men from the dreadful environments of their situation; + despairing of reaching the Gulf by the Mississippi, he struck westward, + hoping, as Cabeca de Vaca had done, to arrive in Mexico overland. + </p> + <p> + A period of six months was consumed in Moscoso's march towards the Rocky + Mountains, but he failed to find Coronado, who at that time was camped + near where Wichita, Kansas, is located; according to his historian, "at + the junction of the St. Peter and St. Paul" (the Big and Little + Arkansas?). That point was the place of separation between Coronado and a + number of his followers; many returning to Mexico, while the undaunted + commander, with as many as he could induce to accompany him, continued + easterly, still in search of the mythical Quivira. + </p> + <p> + How far westward Moscoso travelled cannot be determined accurately, but + that his route extended up the valley of the Arkansas for more than three + hundred miles, into what is now Kansas, is proved by the statement of his + historian, who says: "They saw great chains of mountains and forests to + the west, which they understood were uninhabited." + </p> + <p> + Another strong confirmatory fact is, that, in 1884, a group of mounds was + discovered in McPherson County, Kansas, which were thoroughly explored by + the professors of Bethany College, Lindsborg, who found, among other + interesting relics, a piece of chain-mail armour, of hard steel; + undoubtedly part of the equipment of a Spanish soldier either of the + command of Cabeca de Vaca, De Soto, or of Coronado. The probability is, + that it was worn by one of De Soto's unfortunate men, as neither Panphilo + de Narvaez, De Vaca, or Coronado experienced any difficulty with the + savages of the great plains, because those leaders were humane and treated + the Indians kindly, in contradistinction to De Soto, who was the most + inhuman of all the early Spanish explorers. He was of the same school as + Pizarro and Cortez; possessing their daring valour, their contempt of + danger, and their tenacity of purpose, as well as their cruelty and + avarice. De Soto made treaties with the Indians which he constantly + violated, and murdered the misguided creatures without mercy. During the + retreat of Moscoso's weakened command down the Arkansas River, the Hot + Springs of Arkansas were discovered. His historian writes: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + And when they saw the foaming fountain, they thought + it was the long-searched-for "Fountain of Youth," reported + by fame to exist somewhere in the country, but ten of the + soldiers dying from excessive drinking, they were soon + convinced of their error. +</pre> + <p> + After these intrepid explorers the restless Coronado appears on the Old + Trail. In the third volume of Hakluyt's <i>Voyages</i>, published in + London, 1600, Coronado's historian thus describes the great plains of + Kansas and Colorado, the bison, and a tornado:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + From Cicuye they went to Quivira, which after their account + is almost three hundred leagues distant, through mighty + plains, and sandy heaths so smooth and wearisome, and bare + of wood that they made heaps of ox-dung, for want of stones + and trees, that they might not lose themselves at their + return: for three horses were lost on that plain, and one + Spaniard which went from his company on hunting.... + All that way of plains are as full of crooked-back oxen as + the mountain Serrena in Spain is of sheep, but there is + no such people as keep those cattle.... They were a + great succour for the hunger and the want of bread, which + our party stood in need of.... + + One day it rained in that plain a great shower of hail, + as big as oranges, which caused many tears, weakness + and bowes. + + These oxen are of the bigness and colour of our bulls, + but their bones are not so great. They have a great bunch + upon their fore-shoulder, and more hair on their fore part + than on their hinder part, and it is like wool. They have + as it were an horse-mane upon their backbone, and much hair + and very long from their knees downward. They have great + tufts of hair hanging down on their foreheads, and it + seemeth they have beards because of the great store of hair + hanging down at their chins and throats. The males have + very long tails, and a great knob or flock at the end, + so that in some respects they resemble the lion, and in some + other the camel. They push with their horns, they run, + they overtake and kill an horse when they are in their + rage and anger. Finally it is a foul and fierce beast of + countenance and form of body. The horses fled from them, + either because of their deformed shape, or else because + they had never before seen them. +</pre> + <p> + "The number," continues the historian, "was incredible." When the + soldiers, in their excitement for the chase, began to kill them, they + rushed together in such masses that hundreds were literally crushed to + death. At one place there was a great ravine; they jumped into it in their + efforts to escape from the hunters, and so terrible was the slaughter as + they tumbled over the precipice that the depression was completely filled + up, their carcasses forming a bridge, over which the remainder passed with + ease. + </p> + <p> + The next recorded expedition across the plains via the Old Trail was also + by the Spaniards from Santa Fe, eastwardly, in the year 1716, "for the + purpose of establishing a Military Post in the Upper Mississippi Valley as + a barrier to the further encroachments of the French in that direction." + An account of this expedition is found in <i>Memoires Historiques sur La + Louisiane</i>, published in Paris in 1858, but never translated in its + entirety. The author, Lieutenant Dumont of the French army, was one of a + party ascending the Arkansas River in search of a supposed mass of + emeralds. The narrative relates: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + There was more than half a league to traverse to gain the + other bank of the river, and our people were no sooner + arrived than they found there a party of Missouris, sent to + M. de la Harpe by M. de Bienville, then commandant general + at Louisiana, to deliver orders to the former. Consequently + they gave the signal order, and our other two canoes having + crossed the river, the savages gave to our commandant the + letters of M. de Bienville, in which he informed him that + the Spaniards had sent out a detachment from New Mexico + to go to the Missouris and to establish a post in that + country.... The success of this expedition was very + calamitous to the Spaniards. Their caravan was composed of + fifteen hundred people, men, women and soldiers, having + with them a Jacobin for a chaplain, and bringing also a + great number of horses and cattle, according to the custom + of that nation to forget nothing that might be necessary for + a settlement. Their design was to destroy the Missouris, + and to seize upon their country, and with this intention + they had resolved to go first to the Osages, a neighbouring + nation, enemies of the Missouris, to form an alliance with + them, and to engage them in their behalf for the execution + of their plan. Perhaps the map which guided them was not + correct, or they had not exactly followed it, for it chanced + that instead of going to the Osages whom they sought, they + fell, without knowing it, into a village of the Missouris, + where the Spanish commander, presenting himself to the great + chief and offering him the calumet, made him understand + through an interpreter, believing himself to be speaking + to the Osage chief, that they were enemies of the Missouris, + that they had come to destroy them, to make their women + and children slaves and to take possession of their country. + He begged the chief to be willing to form an alliance + with them, against a nation whom the Osages regarded as + their enemy, and to second them in this enterprise, promising + to recompense them liberally for the service rendered, + and always to be their friend in the future. Upon this + discourse the Missouri chief understood perfectly well + the mistake. He dissimulated and thanked the Spaniard for + the confidence he had in his nation; he consented to form + an alliance with them against the Missouris, and to join + them with all his forces to destroy them; but he represented + that his people were not armed, and that they dared not + expose themselves without arms in such an enterprise. + Deceived by so favourable a reception, the Spaniards fell + into the trap laid for them. They received with due + ceremony, in the little camp they had formed on their + arrival, the calumet which the great chief of the Missouris + presented to the Spanish commander. The alliance for war + was sworn to by both parties; they agreed upon a day for + the execution of the plan which they meditated, and the + Spaniards furnished the savages with all the munitions which + they thought were needed. After the ceremony both parties + gave themselves up equally to joy and good cheer. At the + end of three days two thousand savages were armed and in + the midst of dances and amusements; each party thought + nothing but the execution of its design. It was the evening + before their departure upon their concerted expedition, + and the Spaniards had retired to their camps as usual, + when the great chief of the Missouris, having assembled + his warriors, declared to them his intentions and exhorted + them to deal treacherously with these strangers who were come + to their home only with the design of destroying them. + At daybreak the savages divided into several bands, fell on + the Spaniards, who expected nothing of the kind, and in + less than a quarter of an hour all the caravan were murdered. + No one escaped from the massacre except the chaplain, whom + the barbarians saved because of his dress; at the same time + they took possession of all the merchandise and other + effects which they found in their camp. The Spaniards had + brought with them, as I have said, a certain number of horses, + and as the savages were ignorant of the use of these animals, + they took pleasure in making the Jacobin whom they had saved, + and who had become their slave, mount them. The priest gave + them this amusement almost every day for the five or six + months that he remained with them in their village, without + any of them daring to imitate him. Tired at last of his + slavery, and regarding the lack of daring in these barbarians + as a means of Providence to regain his liberty, he made + secretly all the provisions possible for him to make, + and which he believed necessary to his plan. At last, + having chosen the best horse and having mounted him, + after performing several of his exploits before the savages, + and while they were all occupied with his manoeuvres, + he spurred up and disappeared from their sight, taking the + road to Mexico, where doubtless he arrived. +</pre> + <p> + Charlevoix,<a href="#linknote-2" name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a> + who travelled from Quebec to New Orleans in the year 1721, says in one of + his letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres, dated at Kaskaskia, July 21, + 1721: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + About two years ago some Spaniards, coming, as they say, + from New Mexico, and intending to get into the country of + the Illinois and drive the French from thence, whom they + saw with extreme jealousy approach so near the Missouri, + came down the river and attacked two villages of the + Octoyas,<a href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3" id="linknoteref-3">3</a> who are the allies of the Ayouez,<a + href="#linknote-4" name="linknoteref-4" id="linknoteref-4">4</a> and from + whom it is said also that they are derived. As the savages + had no firearms and were surprised, the Spaniards made an + easy conquest and killed a great many of them. A third + village, which was not far off from the other two, being + informed of what had passed, and not doubting but these + conquerors would attack them, laid an ambush into which + the Spaniards heedlessly fell. Others say that the savages, + having heard that the enemy were almost all drunk and + fast asleep, fell upon them in the night. However it was, + it is certain the greater part of them were killed. + There were in the party two almoners; one of them was + killed directly and the other got away to the Missouris, + who took him prisoner, but he escaped them very dexterously. + He had a very fine horse and the Missouris took pleasure + in seeing him ride it, which he did very skilfully. He took + advantage of their curiosity to get out of their hands. + + One day as he was prancing and exercising his horse before + them, he got a little distance from them insensibly; then + suddenly clapping spurs to his horse he was soon out of sight. +</pre> + <p> + The Missouri Indians once occupied all the territory near the junction of + the Kaw and Missouri rivers, but they were constantly decimated by the + continual depredations of their warlike and feudal enemies, the Pawnees + and Sioux, and at last fell a prey to that dreadful scourge, the + small-pox, which swept them off by thousands. The remnant of the once + powerful tribe then found shelter and a home with the Otoes, finally + becoming merged in that tribe. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. UNDER THE SPANIARDS. + </h2> + <p> + The Santa Fe of the purely Mexican occupation, long before the days of New + Mexico's acquisition by the United States, and the Santa Fe of to-day are + so widely in contrast that it is difficult to find language in which to + convey to the reader the story of the phenomenal change. To those who are + acquainted with the charming place as it is now, with its refined and + cultured society, I cannot do better, perhaps, in attempting to show what + it was under the old regime, than to quote what some traveller in the + early 30's wrote for a New York leading newspaper, in regard to it. As far + as my own observation of the place is concerned, when I first visited it a + great many years ago, the writer of the communication whose views I now + present was not incorrect in his judgment. He said:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + To dignify such a collection of mud hovels with the name + of "City," would be a keen irony; not greater, however, + than is the name with which its Padres have baptized it. + To call a place with its moral character, a very Sodom + in iniquity, "Holy Faith," is scarcely a venial sin; + it deserves Purgatory at least. Its health is the best + in the country, which is the first, second and third + recommendation of New Mexico by its greatest admirers. + It is a small town of about two thousand inhabitants, + crowded up against the mountains, at the end of a little + valley through which runs a mountain stream of the same + name tributary to the Rio Grande. It has a public square + in the centre, a Palace and an Alameda; as all Spanish + Roman Catholic towns have. It is true its Plaza, or + Public Square, is unfenced and uncared for, without trees + or grass. The Palace is nothing more than the biggest + mud-house in the town, and the churches, too, are unsightly + piles of the same material, and the Alameda<a href="#linknote-5" + name="linknoteref-5" id="linknoteref-5">5</a> is on top of + a sand hill. Yet they have in Santa Fe all the parts and + parcels of a regal city and a Bishopric. The Bishop has a + palace also; the only two-storied shingle-roofed house in + the place. There is one public house set apart for eating, + drinking and gambling; for be it known that gambling is here + authorized by law. Hence it is as respectable to keep a + gambling house, as it is to sell rum in New Jersey; it is + a lawful business, and being lawful, and consequently + respectable and a man's right, why should not men gamble? + And gamble they do. The Generals and the Colonels and + the Majors and the Captains gamble. The judges and the + lawyers and the doctors and the priests gamble; and there + are gentlemen gamblers by profession! You will see squads + of poor peons daily, men, women and boys, sitting on the + ground around a deck of cards in the Public Square, gambling + for the smallest stakes. + + The stores of the town generally front on the Public Square. + Of these there are a dozen, more or less, of respectable + size, and most of them are kept by others than Mexicans. + The business of the place is considerable, many of the + merchants here being wholesale dealers for the vast + territory tributary. It is supposed that about $750,000 + worth of goods will be brought to this place this year, and + there may be $250,000 worth imported directly from the + United States. + + In the money market there is nothing less than a five-cent + piece. You cannot purchase anything for less than five cents. + In trade they reckon ten cents the eighth of a dollar. + If you purchase nominally a dollar's worth of an article, + you can pay for it in eight ten-cent pieces; and if you + give a dollar, you receive no change. In changing a dollar + for you, you would get but eight ten-cent pieces for it. + + Yet, although dirty and unkempt, and swarming with hungry + dogs, it has the charm of foreign flavour, and like + San Antonio retains some portion of the grace which long + lingered about it, if indeed it ever forsakes the spot + where Spain held rule for centuries, and the soft syllables + of the Spanish language are yet heard. +</pre> + <p> + Such was a description of the "drowsy old town" of Santa Fe, sixty-five + years ago. Fifteen years later Major W. H. Emory, of the United States + army, writes of it as follows:<a href="#linknote-6" name="linknoteref-6" + id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The population of Santa Fe is from two to four thousand, + and the inhabitants are, it is said, the poorest people + of any town in the Province. The houses are mud bricks, + in the Spanish style, generally of one story, and built + on a square. The interior of the square is an open court, + and the principal rooms open into it. They are forbidding + in appearance from the outside, but nothing can exceed + the comfort and convenience of the interior. The thick + walls make them cool in summer and warm in winter. + + The better class of people are provided with excellent beds, + but the poorer class sleep on untanned skins. The women + here, as in many other parts of the world, appear to be + much before the men in refinements, intelligence, and + knowledge of the useful arts. The higher class dress like + the American women, except, instead of a bonnet, they wear + a scarf over their head, called a reboso. This they wear + asleep or awake, in the house or abroad. The dress of the + lower classes of women is a simple petticoat, with arms and + shoulders bare, except what may chance to be covered by + the reboso. + + The men who have means to do so dress after our fashion; + but by far the greater number, when they dress at all, + wear leather breeches, tight around the hips and open from + the knee down; shirt and blanket take the place of our + coat and vest. + + The city is dependent on the distant hills for wood, and + at all hours of the day may be seen jackasses passing laden + with wood, which is sold at two bits, twenty-five cents, + the load. These are the most diminutive animals, and + usually mounted from behind, after the fashion of leap-frog. + The jackass is the only animal that can be subsisted in + this barren neighbourhood without great expense; our horses + are all sent to a distance of twelve, fifteen, and thirty + miles for grass. +</pre> + <p> + I have interpolated these two somewhat similar descriptions of Santa Fe + written in that long ago when New Mexico was almost as little known as the + topography of the planet Mars, so that the intelligent visitor of to-day + may appreciate the wonderful changes which American thrift, and that + powerful civilizer, the locomotive, have wrought in a very few years, yet + it still, as one of the foregoing writers has well said, "has the charm of + foreign flavour, and the soft syllables of the Spanish language are still + heard." + </p> + <p> + The most positive exception must be taken to the statement of the + first-quoted writer in relation to the Palace, of which he says "It is + nothing more than the biggest mud-house in the town." Now this "Palacio + del Gobernador," as the old building was called by the Spanish, was + erected at a very early day. It was the long-established seat of power + when Penalosa confined the chief inquisitor within its walls in 1663, and + when the Pueblo authorities took possession of it as the citadel of their + central authority, in 1681. + </p> + <p> + The old building cannot well be overlooked by the most careless visitor to + the quaint town; it is a long, low structure, taking up the greater part + of one side of the Plaza, round which runs a colonnade supported by + pillars of rough pine. In this once leaky old Palace were kept, or rather + neglected, the archives of the Territory until the American residents, + appreciating the importance of preserving precious documents containing so + much of interest to the student of history and the antiquarian, enlisted + themselves enthusiastically in the good cause, and have rescued from + oblivion the annals of a relatively remote civilization, which, but for + their forethought, would have perished from the face of the earth as + completely as have the written records of that wonderful region in Central + America, whose gigantic ruins alone remain to tell us of what was a highly + cultured order of architecture in past ages, and of a people whose + intelligence was comparable to the style of the dwellings in which they + lived. + </p> + <p> + The old adobe Palace is in itself a volume whose pages are filled with + pathos and stirring events. It has been the scene and witness of incidents + the recital of which would to us to-day seem incredible. An old friend, + once governor of New Mexico and now dead, thus graphically spoke of the + venerable building:<a href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" + id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + In it lived and ruled the Spanish captain general, so remote + and inaccessible from the viceroyalty at Mexico that he was + in effect a king, nominally accountable to the viceroy, + but practically beyond his reach and control and wholly + irresponsible to the people. Equally independent for the + same reason were the Mexican governors. Here met all the + provincial, territorial, departmental, and other legislative + bodies that have ever assembled at the capital of New Mexico. + Here have been planned all the Indian wars and measures + for defence against foreign invasion, including, as the + most noteworthy, the Navajo war of 1823, the Texan invasion + of 1842, the American of 1846, and the Confederate of 1862. + Within its walls was imprisoned, in 1809, the American + explorer Zebulon M. Pike, and innumerable state prisoners + before and since; and many a sentence of death has been + pronounced therein and the accused forthwith led away and + shot at the dictum of the man at the Palace. It has been + from time immemorial the government house with all its + branches annexed. It was such on the Fourth of July, 1776, + when the American Congress at Independence Hall in + Philadelphia proclaimed liberty throughout all the land, + not then, but now embracing it. Indeed, this old edifice + has a history. And as the history of Santa Fe is the + history of New Mexico, so is the history of the Palace + the history of Santa Fe. +</pre> + <p> + The Palace was the only building having glazed windows. At one end was the + government printing office, and at the other, the guard-house and prison. + Fearful stories were connected with the prison. Edwards<a + href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + says that he found, on examining the walls of the small rooms, locks of + human hair stuffed into holes, with rude crosses drawn over them. + </p> + <p> + Fronting the Palace, on the south side of the Plaza, stood the remains of + the Capilla de los Soldados, or Military Chapel. The real name of the + church was "Our Lady of Light." It was said to be the richest church in + the Province, but had not been in use for a number of years, and the roof + had fallen in, allowing the elements to complete the work of destruction. + On each side of the altar was the remains of fine carving, and a + weather-beaten picture above gave evidence of having been a beautiful + painting. Over the door was a large oblong slab of freestone, elaborately + carved, representing "Our Lady of Light" rescuing a human being from the + jaws of Satan. A large tablet, beautifully executed in relief, stood + behind the altar, representing various saints, with an inscription stating + that it was erected by Governor Francisco Antonio del Valle and his wife + in 1761. + </p> + <p> + Church services were held in the Parroquia, or Parish church, now the + Cathedral, which had two towers or steeples, in which hung four bells. The + music was furnished by a violin and a triangle. The wall back of the altar + was covered with innumerable mirrors, paintings, and bright-coloured + tapestry. + </p> + <p> + The exact date of the first settlement of Santa Fe is uncertain. One + authority says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It was a primeval stronghold before the Spanish Conquest, + and a town of some importance to the white race when + Pennsylvania was a wilderness and the first Dutch governor + of New York was slowly drilling the Knickerbocker ancestry + in their difficult evolutions around the town-pump. +</pre> + <p> + It is claimed, on what is deemed very authentic data by some, that Santa + Fe is really the oldest settled town in the United States. St. Augustine, + Florida, was established in 1565 and was unquestionably conceded the + honour of antiquity until the acquisition of New Mexico by the + Guadalupe-Hidalgo treaty. Then, of course, Santa Fe steps into the arena + and carries off the laurels. This claim of precedence for Santa Fe is + based upon the statement (whether historically correct or not is a + question) that when the Spaniards first entered the region from the + southern portion of Mexico, about 1542, they found a very large Pueblo + town on the present site of Santa Fe, and that its prior existence + extended far back into the vanished centuries. This is contradicted by + other historians, who contend that the claim of Santa Fe to be the oldest + town in the United States rests entirely on imaginary annals of an Indian + Pueblo before the Spanish Conquest, and that there are but slight + indications that the town was built on the site of one.<a + href="#linknote-9" name="linknoteref-9" id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The reader may further satisfy himself on these mooted points by + consulting the mass of historical literature on New Mexico, and the + records of its primitive times are not surpassed in interest by those of + any other part of the continent. It was there the Europeans first made + great conquests, and some years prior to the landing of the Pilgrims, a + history of New Mexico, being the journal of Geronimo de Zarate Salmaron, + was published by the Church in the City of Mexico, early in 1600. Salmaron + was a Franciscan monk; a most zealous and indefatigable worker. During his + eight years' residence at Jemez, near Santa Fe, he claims to have baptized + over eight thousand Indians, converts to the Catholic faith. His journal + gives a description of the country, its mines, etc., and was made public + in order that other monks reading it might emulate his pious example. + </p> + <p> + Between 1605 and 1616 was founded the Villa of Santa Fe, or San Francisco + de la Santa Fe. "Villa," or village, was an honorary title, always + authorized and proclaimed by the king. Bancroft says that it was first + officially mentioned on the 3d of January, 1617. + </p> + <p> + The first immigration to New Mexico was under Don Juan de Onate about + 1597, and in a year afterward, according to some authorities, Santa Fe was + settled. The place, as claimed by some historians, was then named El + Teguayo, a Spanish adaptation of the word "Tegua," the name of the Pueblo + nation, which was quite numerous, and occupied Santa Fe and the contiguous + country. It very soon, from its central position and charming climate, + became the leading Spanish town, and the capital of the Province. The + Spaniards, who came at first into the country as friends, and were + apparently eager to obtain the good-will of the intelligent natives, + shortly began to claim superiority, and to insist on the performance of + services which were originally mere evidences of hospitality and kindness. + Little by little they assumed greater power and control over the Indians, + until in the course of years they had subjected a large portion of them to + servitude little differing from actual slavery. + </p> + <p> + The impolitic zeal of the monks gradually invoked the spirit of hatred and + resulted in a rebellion that drove the Spaniards, in 1680, from the + country. The large number of priests who were left in the midst of the + natives met with horrible fates: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Not one escaped martyrdom. At Zuni, three Franciscans + had been stationed, and when the news of the Spanish retreat + reached the town, the people dragged them from their cells, + stripped and stoned them, and afterwards compelled the + servant of one to finish the work by shooting them. Having + thus whetted their appetite for cruelty and vengeance, + the Indians started to carry the news of their independence + to Moqui, and signalized their arrival by the barbarous + murder of the two missionaries who were living there. + Their bodies were left unburied, as a prey for the wild + beasts. At Jemez they indulged in every refinement of + cruelty. The old priest, Jesus Morador, was seized in + his bed at night, stripped naked and mounted on a hog, + and thus paraded through the streets, while the crowd + shouted and yelled around. Not satisfied with this, + they then forced him to carry them as a beast would, + crawling on his hands and feet, until, from repeated beating + and the cruel tortures of sharp spurs, he fell dead in + their midst. A similar chapter of horrors was enacted + at Acoma, where three priests were stripped, tied together + with hair rope, and so driven through the streets, and + finally stoned to death. Not a Christian remained free + within the limits of New Mexico, and those who had been + dominant a few months before were now wretched and + half-starved fugitives, huddled together in the rude huts + of San Lorenzo. + + As soon as the Spaniards had retreated from the country, + the Pueblo Indians gave themselves up for a time to + rejoicing, and to the destruction of everything which could + remind them of the Europeans, their religion, and their + domination. The army which had besieged Santa Fe quickly + entered that city, took possession of the Palace as the + seat of government, and commenced the work of demolition. + The churches and the monastery of the Franciscans were + burned with all their contents, amid the almost frantic + acclamations of the natives. The gorgeous vestments of + the priests had been dragged out before the conflagration, + and now were worn in derision by Indians, who rode through + the streets at full speed, shouting for joy. The official + documents and books in the Palace were brought forth, + and made fuel for a bonfire in the centre of the Plaza; + and here also they danced the cachina, with all the + accompanying religious ceremonies of the olden time. + Everything imaginable was done to show their detestation + of the Christian faith and their determination to utterly + eradicate even its memory. Those who had been baptized + were washed with amole in the Rio Chiquito, in order to be + cleansed from the infection of Christianity. All baptismal + names were discarded, marriages celebrated by Christian + priests were annulled, the very mention of the names Jesus + and Mary was made an offence, and estuffas were constructed + to take the place of ruined churches.<a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10">10</a> +</pre> + <p> + For twelve years, although many abortive attempts were made to recapture + the country, the Pueblos were left in possession. On the 16th of October, + 1693, the victorious Spaniards at last entered Santa Fe, bearing the same + banner which had been carried by Onate when he entered the city just a + century before. The conqueror this time was Don Diego de Vargas Zapata + Lujan, whom the viceroy of New Spain had appointed governor in the spring + of 1692, with the avowed purpose of having New Mexico reconquered as + speedily as possible. + </p> + <p> + Thus it will be seen that the quaint old city has been the scene of many + important historical events, the mere outline of which I have recorded + here, as this book is not devoted to the historical view of the subject. + </p> + <p> + In contradistinction to the quiet, sleepy old Santa Fe of half a century + ago, it now presents all the vigour, intelligence, and bustling + progressiveness of the average American city of to-day, yet still smacks + of that ancient Spanish regime, which gives it a charm that only its + blended European and Indian civilization could make possible after its + amalgamation with the United States. + </p> + <p> + The tourist will no longer find a drowsy old town, and the Plaza is no + longer unfenced and uncared for. A beautiful park of trees is surrounded + by low palings, and inside the shady enclosure, under a group of large + cottonwoods, is a cenotaph erected to the memory of the Territory's + gallant soldiers who fell in the shock of battle to save New Mexico to the + Union in 1862, and conspicuous among the names carved on the enduring + native rock is that of Kit Carson—prince of frontiersmen, and one of + Nature's noblemen. + </p> + <p> + Around the Plaza one sees the American style of architecture and hears the + hum of American civilization; but beyond, and outside this pretty park, + the streets are narrow, crooked, and have an ancient appearance. There the + old Santa Fe confronts the stranger; odd, foreign-looking, and flavoured + with all the peculiarities which marked the era of Mexican rule. And now, + where once was heard the excited shouts of the idle crowd, of "Los + Americanos!" "Los Carros!" "La entrada de la Caravana!" as the great + freight wagons rolled into the streets of the old town from the Missouri, + over the Santa Fe Trail, the shrill whistle of the locomotive from its + trail of steel awakens the echoes of the mighty hills. + </p> + <p> + As may be imagined, great excitement always prevailed whenever a caravan + of goods arrived in Santa Fe. Particularly was this the case among the + feminine portion of the community. The quaint old town turned out its + mixed population en masse the moment the shouts went up that the train was + in sight. There is nothing there to-day comparable to the anxious looks of + the masses as they watched the heavily freighted wagons rolling into the + town, the teamsters dust-begrimed, and the mules making the place hideous + with their discordant braying as they knew that their long journey was + ended and rest awaited them. The importing merchants were obliged to turn + over to the custom house officials five hundred dollars for every + wagon-load, great or small; and no matter what the intrinsic value of the + goods might be, salt or silk, velvets or sugar, it was all the same. The + nefarious duty had to be paid before a penny's worth could be transferred + to their counters. Of course, with the end of Mexican rule and the + acquisition of the Province by the United States, all opposition to the + traffic of the Old Santa Fe Trail ended, traders were assured a profitable + market and the people purchased at relatively low prices. + </p> + <p> + What a wonderful change has taken place in the traffic with New Mexico in + less than three-quarters of a century! In 1825 it was all carried on with + one single annual caravan of prairie-schooners, and now there are four + railroads running through the Rio Grande Valley, and one daily freight + train of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe into the town unloads more + freight than was taken there in a whole year when the "commerce of the + prairies" was at its height! + </p> + <p> + Upon the arrival of a caravan in the days of the sleepy regime under + Mexican control, the people did everything in their power to make the time + pass pleasantly for every one connected with it during their sojourn. + Bailes, or fandangoes, as the dancing parties were called by the natives, + were given nightly, and many amusing anecdotes in regard to them are + related by the old-timers. + </p> + <p> + The New Mexicans, both men and women, had a great fondness for jewelry, + dress, and amusements; of the latter, the fandango was the principal, + which was held in the most fashionable place of resort, where every belle + and beauty in the town presented herself, attired in the most costly + manner, and displaying her jewelled ornaments to the best advantage. To + this place of recreation and pleasure, generally a large, capacious saloon + or interior court, all classes of persons were allowed to come, without + charge and without invitation. The festivities usually commenced about + nine o'clock in the evening, and the tolling of the church bells was the + signal for the ladies to make their entrance, which they did almost + simultaneously. + </p> + <p> + New Mexican ladies were famous for their gaudy dresses, but it must be + confessed they did not exercise good taste. Their robes were made without + bodies; a skirt only, and a long, loose, flowing scarf or reboso + dexterously thrown about the head and shoulders, so as to supersede both + the use of dress-bodies and bonnets. + </p> + <p> + There was very little order maintained at these fandangoes, and still less + attention paid to the rules of etiquette. A kind of swinging, gallopade + waltz was the favourite dance, the cotillion not being much in vogue. Read + Byron's graphic description of the waltz, and then stretch your + imagination to its utmost tension, and you will perhaps have some faint + conception of the Mexican fandango. Such familiarity of position as was + indulged in would be repugnant to the refined rules of polite society in + the eastern cities; but with the New Mexicans, in those early times, + nothing was considered to be a greater accomplishment than that of being + able to go handsomely through all the mazes of their peculiar dance. + </p> + <p> + There was one republican feature about the New Mexican fandango; it was + that all classes, rich and poor alike, met and intermingled, as did the + Romans at their Saturnalia, upon terms of equality. Sumptuous repasts or + collations were rarely ever prepared for those frolicsome gatherings, but + there was always an abundance of confectionery, sweetmeats, and native + wine. It cost very little for a man to attend one of the fandangoes in + Santa Fe, but not to get away decently and sober. In that it resembled the + descent of Aeneas to Pluto's realms; it was easy enough to get there, but + when it came to return, "revocare gradum, superasque evadere ad auras, hic + labor, hoc opus est." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. LA LANDE AND PURSLEY. + </h2> + <p> + In the beginning of the trade with New Mexico, the route across the great + plains was directly west from the Missouri River to the mountains, thence + south to Santa Fe by the circuitous trail from Taos. When the traffic + assumed an importance demanding a more easy line of way, the road was + changed, running along the left bank of the Arkansas until that stream + turned northwest, at which point it crossed the river, and continued + southwest to the Raton Pass. + </p> + <p> + The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad track substantially follows + the Trail through the mountains, which here afford the wildest and most + picturesquely beautiful scenery on the continent. + </p> + <p> + The Arkansas River at the fording of the Old Trail is not more than + knee-deep at an ordinary stage of water, and its bottom is well paved with + rounded pebbles of the primitive rock. + </p> + <p> + The overland trade between the United States and the northern provinces of + Mexico seems to have had no very definite origin; having been rather the + result of an accident than of any organized plan of commercial + establishment. + </p> + <p> + According to the best authorities, a French creole, named La Lande, an + agent of a merchant of Kaskaskia, Illinois, was the first American + adventurer to enter into the uncertain channels of trade with the people + of the ultramontane region of the centre of the continent. He began his + adventurous journey across the vast wilderness, with no companions but the + savages of the debatable land, in 1804; and following him the next year, + James Pursley undertook the same pilgrimage. Neither of these pioneers in + the "commerce of the prairies" returned to relate what incidents marked + the passage of their marvellous expeditions. Pursley was so infatuated + with the strange country he had travelled so far to reach, that he took up + his abode in the quaint old town of Santa Fe where his subsequent life is + lost sight of. La Lande, of a different mould, forgot to render an account + of his mission to the merchant who had sent him there, and became a + prosperous and wealthy man by means of money to which he had no right. + </p> + <p> + To Captain Zebulon Pike, who afterwards was made a general, is due the + impetus which the trade with Santa Fe received shortly after his return to + the United States. The student of American history will remember that the + expedition commanded by this soldier was inaugurated in 1806; his report + of the route he had taken was the incentive for commercial speculation in + the direction of trade with New Mexico, but it was so handicapped by + restrictions imposed by the Mexican government, that the adventurers into + the precarious traffic were not only subject to a complete confiscation of + their wares, but frequently imprisoned for months as spies. Under such a + condition of affairs, many of the earlier expeditions, prior to 1822, + resulted in disaster, and only a limited number met with an indifferent + success. + </p> + <p> + It will not be inconsistent with my text if I herewith interpolate an + incident connected with Pursley, the second American to cross the desert, + for the purpose of trade with New Mexico, which I find in the <i>Magazine + of American History</i>: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + When Zebulon M. Pike was in Mexico, in 1807, he met, + at Santa Fe, a carpenter, Pursley by name, from Bardstown, + Kentucky, who was working at his trade. He had in a + previous year, while out hunting on the Plains, met with + a series of misfortunes, and found himself near the + mountains. The hostile Sioux drove the party into the + high ground in the rear of Pike's Peak. Near the headwaters + of the Platte River, Pursley found some gold, which he + carried in his shot-pouch for months. He was finally sent + by his companions to Santa Fe, to see if they could trade + with the Mexicans, but he chose to remain in Santa Fe + in preference to returning to his comrades. He told the + Mexicans about the gold he had found, and they tried hard + to persuade him to show them the place. They even offered + to take along a strong force of cavalry. But Pursley + refused, and his patriotic reason was that he thought the + land belonged to the United States. He told Captain Pike + that he feared they would not allow him to leave Santa Fe, + as they still hoped to learn from him where the gold was + to be found. These facts were published by Captain Pike + soon after his return east; but no one took the hint, + or the risk was too great, and thus more than a half + a century passed before those same rich fields of gold + were found and opened to the world. If Pursley had been + somewhat less patriotic, and had guided the Mexicans to + the treasures, the whole history and condition of the + western part of our continent might have been entirely + different from what it now is. That region would still + have been a part of Mexico, or Spain might have been + in possession of it, owning California; and, with the gold + that would have been poured into her coffers, would have + been the leading nation of European affairs to-day. + We can easily see how American and European history in + the nineteenth century might have been changed, if that + adventurer from Kentucky had not been a true lover of his + native country. +</pre> + <p> + The adventures of Captain Ezekiel Williams along the Old Trail, in the + early days of the century, tell a story of wonderful courage, endurance, + and persistency. Williams was a man of great perseverance, patience, and + determination of character. He set out from St. Louis in the late spring + of 1807, to trap on the Upper Missouri and the waters of the Yellowstone, + with a party of twenty men who had chosen him as their leader. After + various exciting incidents and thrilling adventures, all of the original + party, except Williams and two others, were killed by the Indians + somewhere in the vicinity of the Upper Arkansas. The three survivors, not + knowing where they were, separated, and Captain Williams determined to + take to the stream by canoe, and trap on his way toward the settlements, + while his last two companions started for the Spanish country—that + is, for the region of Santa Fe. The journal of Williams, from which I + shall quote freely, is to be found in <i>The Lost Trappers</i>, a work + long out of print.<a href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" + id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a> As the country was an unexplored + region, he might be on a river that flowed into the Pacific, or he might + be drifting down a stream that was an affluent to the Gulf of Mexico. He + was inclined to believe that he was on the sources of the Red River. He + therefore resolved to launch his canoe, and go wherever the stream might + convey him, trapping on his descent, when beaver might be plenty. + </p> + <p> + The first canoe he used he made of buffalo-skins. As this kind of water + conveyance soon begins to leak and rot, he made another of cottonwood, as + soon as he came to timber sufficiently large, in which he embarked for a + port, he knew not where. + </p> + <p> + Most of his journeyings Captain Williams performed during the hours of + night, excepting when he felt it perfectly safe to travel in daylight. His + usual plan was to glide along down the stream, until he came to a place + where beaver signs were abundant. There he would push his little bark + among the willows, where he remained concealed, excepting when he was + setting his traps or visiting them in the morning. When he had taken all + the beaver in one neighbourhood, he would untie his little conveyance, and + glide onward and downward to try his luck in another place. + </p> + <p> + Thus for hundreds of miles did this solitary trapper float down this + unknown river, through an unknown country, here and there lashing his + canoe to the willows and planting his traps in the little tributaries + around. The upper part of the Arkansas, for this proved to be the river he + was on,<a href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> + is very destitute of timber, and the prairie frequently begins at the bank + of the river and expands on either side as far as the eye can reach. He + saw vast herds of buffalo, and as it was the rutting season, the bulls + were making a wonderful ado; the prairie resounded with their low, deep + grunting or bellowing, as they tore up the earth with their feet and + horns, whisking their tails, and defying their rivals to battle. Large + gangs of wild horses could be seen grazing on the plains and hillsides, + and the neighing and squealing of stallions might be heard at all times of + the night. + </p> + <p> + Captain Williams never used his rifle to procure meat, except when it was + absolutely necessary, or could be done with perfect safety. On occasions + when he had no beaver, upon which he generally subsisted, he ventured to + kill a deer, and after refreshing his empty stomach with a portion of the + flesh, he placed the carcass in one end of the canoe. It was his + invariable custom to sleep in his canoe at night, moored to the shore, and + once when he had laid in a supply of venison he was startled in his sleep + by the tramping of something in the bushes on the bank. Tramp! tramp! + tramp! went the footsteps, as they approached the canoe. He thought at + first it might be an Indian that had found out his locality, but he knew + that it could not be; a savage would not approach him in that careless + manner. Although there was beautiful starlight, yet the trees and the + dense undergrowth made it very dark on the bank of the river, close to + which he lay. He always adopted the precaution of tying his canoe with a + piece of rawhide about twenty feet long, which allowed it to swing from + the bank at that distance; he did this so that in case of an emergency he + might cut the string, and glide off without making any noise. As the sound + of the footsteps grew more distinct, he presently observed a huge grizzly + bear coming down to the water and swimming for the canoe. The great animal + held his head up as if scenting the venison. The captain snatched his axe + as the most available means to defend himself in such a scrape, and stood + with it uplifted, ready to drive it into the brains of the monster. The + bear reached the canoe, and immediately put his fore paws upon the hind + end of it, nearly turning it over. The captain struck one of the brute's + feet with the edge of the axe, which made him let go with that foot, but + he held on with the other, and he received this time a terrific blow on + the head, that caused him to drop away from the canoe entirely. Nothing + more was seen of the bear, and the captain thought he must have sunk in + the stream and drowned. He was evidently after the fresh meat, which he + scented from a great distance. In the canoe the next morning there were + two of the bear's claws, which had been cut off by the well-directed blow + of the axe. These were carefully preserved by Williams for many years as a + trophy which he was fond of exhibiting, and the history of which he always + delighted to tell. + </p> + <p> + As he was descending the river with his peltries, which consisted of one + hundred and twenty-five beaver-skins, besides some of the otter and other + smaller animals, he overtook three Kansas Indians, who were also in a + canoe going down the river, as he learned from them, to some post to trade + with the whites. They manifested a very friendly disposition towards the + old trapper, and expressed a wish to accompany him. He also learned from + them, to his great delight, that he was on the Big Arkansas, and not more + than five hundred miles from the white settlements. He was well enough + versed in the treachery of the Indian character to know just how much he + could repose in their confidence. He was aware that they would not allow a + solitary trapper to pass through their country with a valuable collection + of furs, without, at least, making an effort to rob him. He knew that + their plan would be to get him into a friendly intercourse, and then, at + the first opportunity, strip him of everything he possessed; consequently + he was determined to get rid of them as soon as possible, and to effect + this, he plied his oars with all diligence. The Indians, like most North + American savages, were lazy, and had no disposition to labour in that way, + but took it quite leisurely, satisfied with being carried down by the + current. Williams soon left them in the rear, and, as he supposed, far + behind him. When night came on, however, as he had worked all day, and + slept none the night before, he resolved to turn aside into a bunch of + willows to take a few hours' rest. But he had not stopped more than forty + minutes when he heard some Indians pull to the shore just above him on the + same side of the river. He immediately loosened his canoe from its + moorings, and glided silently away. He rowed hard for two or three hours, + when he again pulled to the bank and tied up. + </p> + <p> + Only a short time after he had landed, he heard Indians again going on + shore on the same side of the stream as himself. A second time he repeated + his tactics, slipped out of his place of concealment, and stole softly + away. He pulled on vigorously until some time after midnight, when he + supposed he could with safety stop and snatch a little sleep. He felt + apprehensive that he was in a dangerous region, and his anxiety kept him + wide awake. It was very lucky that he did not close his eyes; for as he + was lying in the bottom of his canoe he heard for the third time a canoe + land as before. He was now perfectly satisfied that he was dogged by the + Kansans whom he had passed the preceding day, and in no very good humour, + therefore, he picked up his rifle, and walked up to the bank where he had + heard the Indians land. As he suspected, there were the three savages. + When they saw the captain, they immediately renewed their expressions of + friendship, and invited him to partake of their hospitality. He stood + aloof from them, and shook his head in a rage, charging them with their + villanous purposes. In the short, sententious manner of the Indians, he + said to them: "You now follow me three times; if you follow me again, I + kill you!" and wheeling around abruptly, returned to his canoe. A third + time the solitary trapper pushed his little craft from the shore and set + off down stream, to get away from a region where to sleep would be + hazardous. He plied his oars the remainder of the night, and solaced + himself with the thought that no evil had befallen him, except the loss of + a few hours' sleep. + </p> + <p> + While he was escaping from his villanous pursuers, he was running into new + dangers and difficulties. The following day he overtook a large band of + the same tribe, under the leadership of a chief, who were also descending + the river. Into the hands of these savages he fell a prisoner, and was + conducted to one of their villages. The principal chief there took all of + his furs, traps, and other belongings. A very short time after his + capture, the Kansans went to war with the Pawnees, and carried Captain + Williams with them. In a terrible battle in which the Kansans gained a + most decided victory, the old trapper bore a conspicuous part, killing a + great number of the enemy, and by his excellent strategy brought about the + success of his captors. When they returned to the village, Williams, who + had ever been treated with kindness by the inhabitants, was now thought to + be a wonderful warrior, and could have been advanced to all the savage + honours; he might even have been made one of their principal chiefs. The + tribe gave him his liberty for the great service he had rendered it in its + difficulty with an inveterate foe, but declining all proffered promotions, + he decided to return to the white settlements on the Missouri, at the + mouth of the Kaw, the covetous old chief retaining all his furs, and + indeed everything he possessed excepting his rifle, with as many rounds of + ammunition as would be necessary to secure him provisions in the shape of + game on his route. The veteran trapper had learned from the Indians while + with them that they expected to go to Fort Osage on the Missouri River to + receive some annuities from the government, and he felt certain that his + furs would be there at the same time. + </p> + <p> + After leaving the Kansans he travelled on toward the Missouri, and soon + struck the beginning of the sparse settlements. Just as evening was coming + on, he arrived at a cluster of three little log-cabins, and was received + with genuine backwoods hospitality by the proprietor, who had married an + Osage squaw. Williams was not only very hungry, but very tired; and, after + enjoying an abundant supper, he became stupid and sleepy, and expressed a + wish to lie down. The generous trapper accordingly conducted him to one of + the cabins, in which there were two beds, standing in opposite corners of + the room. He immediately threw himself upon one, and was soon in a very + deep sleep. About midnight his slumbers were disturbed by a singular and + very frightful kind of noise, accompanied by struggling on the other bed. + What it was, Williams was entirely at a loss to understand. There were no + windows in the cabin, the door was shut, and it was as dark as Egypt. A + fierce contest seemed to be going on. There were deep groanings and hard + breathings; and the snapping of teeth appeared almost constant. For a + moment the noise would subside, then again the struggles would be renewed + accompanied as before with groaning, deep sighing, and grinding of teeth. + </p> + <p> + The captain's bed-clothes consisted of a couple of blankets and a + buffalo-robe, and as the terrible struggles continued he raised himself up + in the bed, and threw the robe around him for protection, his rifle having + been left in the cabin where his host slept, while his knife was attached + to his coat, which he had hung on the corner post of the other bedstead + from which the horrid struggles emanated. In an instant the robe was + pulled off, and he was left uncovered and unprotected; in another moment a + violent snatch carried away the blanket upon which he was sitting, and he + was nearly tumbled off the bed with it. As the next thing might be a blow + in the dark, he felt that it was high time to shift his quarters; so he + made a desperate leap from the bed, and alighted on the opposite side of + the room, calling for his host, who immediately came to his relief by + opening the door. Williams then told him that the devil—or something + as bad, he believed—was in the room, and he wanted a light. The + accommodating trapper hurried away, and in a moment was back with a + candle, the light of which soon revealed the awful mystery. It was an + Indian, who at the time was struggling in convulsions, which he was + subject to. He was a superannuated chief, a relative of the wife of the + hospitable trapper, and generally made his home there. Absent when Captain + Williams arrived, he came into the room at a very late hour, and went to + the bed he usually occupied. No one on the claim knew of his being there + until he was discovered, in a dreadfully mangled condition. He was removed + to other quarters, and Williams, who was not to be frightened out of a + night's rest, soon sunk into sound repose. + </p> + <p> + Williams reached the agency by the time the Kansas Indians arrived there, + and, as he suspected, found that the wily old chief had brought all his + belongings, which he claimed, and the agent made the savages give up the + stolen property before he would pay them a cent of their annuities. He + took his furs down to St. Louis, sold them there at a good price, and then + started back to the Rocky Mountains on another trapping tour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. EARLY TRADERS. + </h2> + <p> + In 1812 a Captain Becknell, who had been on a trading expedition to the + country of the Comanches in the summer of 1811, and had done remarkably + well, determined the next season to change his objective point to Santa + Fe, and instead of the tedious process of bartering with the Indians, to + sell out his stock to the New Mexicans. Successful in this, his first + venture, he returned to the Missouri River with a well-filled purse, and + intensely enthusiastic over the result of his excursion to the newly found + market. + </p> + <p> + Excited listeners to his tales of enormous profits were not lacking, who, + inspired by the inducement he held out to them, cheerfully invested five + thousand dollars in merchandise suited to the demands of the trade, and + were eager to attempt with him the passage of the great plains. In this + expedition there were thirty men, and the amount of money in the + undertaking was the largest that had yet been ventured. The progress of + the little caravan was without extraordinary incident, until it arrived at + "The Caches" on the Upper Arkansas. There Becknell, who was in reality a + man of the then "Frontier," bold, plucky, and endowed with excellent + sense, conceived the ridiculous idea of striking directly across the + country for Santa Fe through a region absolutely unexplored; his excuse + for this rash movement being that he desired to avoid the rough and + circuitous mountain route he had travelled on his first trip to Taos. + </p> + <p> + His temerity in abandoning the known for the unknown was severely + punished, and his brave men suffered untold misery, barely escaping with + their lives from the terrible straits to which they were reduced. Not + having the remotest conception of the region through which their new trail + was to lead them, and naturally supposing that water would be found in + streams or springs, when they left the Arkansas they neglected to supply + themselves with more than enough of the precious fluid to last a couple of + days. At the end of that time they learned, too late, that they were in + the midst of a desert, with all the tortures of thirst threatening them. + </p> + <p> + Without a tree or a path to guide them, they took an irregular course by + observations of the North Star, and the unreliable needle of an azimuth + pocket-compass. There was a total absence of water, and when what they had + brought with them in their canteens from the river was exhausted, thirst + began its horrible office. In a short time both men and animals were in a + mental condition bordering on distraction. To alleviate their acute + torment, the dogs of the train were killed, and their blood, hot and + sickening, eagerly swallowed; then the ears of the mules were cut off for + the same purpose, but such a substitute for water only added to their + sufferings. They would have perished had not a superannuated buffalo bull + that had just come from the Cimarron River, where he had gone to quench + his thirst, suddenly appeared, to be immediately killed and the contents + of his stomach swallowed with avidity. It is recorded that one of those + who partook of the nauseous liquid said afterward, "nothing had ever + passed his lips which gave him such exquisite delight as his first draught + of that filthy beverage." + </p> + <p> + Although they were near the Cimarron, where there was plenty of water, + which but for the affair of the buffalo they never would have suspected, + they decided to retrace their steps to the Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + Before they started on their retreat, however, some of the strongest of + the party followed the trail of the animal that had saved their lives to + the river, where, filling all the canteens with pure water, they returned + to their comrades, who were, after drinking, able to march slowly toward + the Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + Following that stream, they at last arrived at Taos, having experienced no + further trouble, but missed the trail to Santa Fe, and had their journey + greatly prolonged by the foolish endeavour of the leader to make a short + cut thither. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1815, Auguste P. Chouteau and his partner, with a large number + of trappers and hunters, went out to the valley of the Upper Arkansas for + the purpose of trading with Indians, and trapping on the numerous streams + of the contiguous region. + </p> + <p> + The island on which Chouteau established his trading-post, and which bears + his name even to this day, is in the Arkansas River on the boundary line + of the United States and Mexico. It was a beautiful spot, with a rich + carpet of grass and delightful groves, and on the American side was a + heavily timbered bottom. + </p> + <p> + While occupying the island, Chouteau and his old hunters and trappers were + attacked by about three hundred Pawnees, whom they repulsed with the loss + of thirty killed and wounded. These Indians afterward declared that it was + the most fatal affair in which they were ever engaged. It was their first + acquaintance with American guns. + </p> + <p> + The general character of the early trade with New Mexico was founded on + the system of the caravan. She depended upon the remote ports of old + Mexico, whence was transported, on the backs of the patient burro and + mule, all that was required by the primitive tastes of the primitive + people; a very tedious and slow process, as may be inferred, and the + limited traffic westwardly across the great plains was confined to this + fashion. At the date of the legitimate and substantial commerce with New + Mexico, in 1824, wheeled vehicles were introduced, and traffic assumed an + importance it could never have otherwise attained, and which now, under + the vast system of railroads, has increased to dimensions little dreamed + of by its originators nearly three-quarters of a century ago. + </p> + <p> + It was eight years after Pursley's pilgrimage before the trade with New + Mexico attracted the attention of speculators and adventurers. Messrs. + McKnight,<a href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a> + Beard, and Chambers, with about a dozen comrades, started with a supply of + goods across the unknown plains, and by good luck arrived safely at Santa + Fe. Once under the jurisdiction of the Mexicans, however, their trouble + began. All the party were arrested as spies, their wares confiscated, and + themselves incarcerated at Chihuahua, where the majority of them were kept + for almost a decade. Beard and Chambers, having by some means escaped, + returned to St. Louis in 1822, and, notwithstanding their dreadful + experience, told of the prospects of the trade with the Mexicans in such + glowing colours that they induced some individuals of small capital to fit + out another expedition, with which they again set out for Santa Fe. + </p> + <p> + It was really too late in the season; they succeeded, however, in reaching + the crossing of the Arkansas without any difficulty, but there a violent + snowstorm overtook them and they were compelled to halt, as it was + impossible to proceed in the face of the blinding blizzard. On an island<a + href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a> + not far from where the town of Cimarron, on the Santa Fe Railroad, is now + situated, they were obliged to remain for more than three months, during + which time most of their animals died for want of food and from the severe + cold. When the weather had moderated sufficiently to allow them to proceed + on their journey, they had no transportation for their goods and were + compelled to hide them in pits dug in the earth, after the manner of the + old French voyageurs in the early settlement of the continent. This method + of secreting furs and valuables of every character is called caching, from + the French word "to hide." Gregg thus describes it: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The cache is made by digging a hole in the ground, somewhat + in the shape of a jug, which is lined with dry sticks, + grass, or anything else that will protect its contents + from the dampness of the earth. In this place the goods + to be concealed are carefully stowed away; and the aperture + is then so effectually closed as to protect them from + the rains. In caching, a great deal of skill is often + required to leave no sign whereby the cunning savage may + discover the place of deposit. To this end, the excavated + earth is carried some distance and carefully concealed, + or thrown into a stream, if one be at hand. The place + selected for a cache is usually some rolling point, + sufficiently elevated to be secure from inundations. + If it be well set with grass, a solid piece of turf is + cut out large enough for the entrance. The turf is + afterward laid back, and, taking root, in a short time + no signs remain of its ever having been molested. + However, as every locality does not afford a turfy site, + the camp-fire is sometimes built upon the place, or the + animals are penned over it, which effectually destroys + all traces. +</pre> + <p> + Father Hennepin<a href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" + id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> thus describes, in his quaint + style, how he built a cache on the bank of the Mississippi, in 1680: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We took up the green sodd, and laid it by, and digg'd a hole + in the Earth where we put our Goods, and cover'd them with + pieces of Timber and Earth, and then put in again the green + Turf; so that 'twas impossible to suspect that any Hole had + been digg'd under it, for we flung the Earth into the River. +</pre> + <p> + After caching their goods, Beard and the party went on to Taos, where they + bought mules, and returning to their caches transported their contents to + their market. + </p> + <p> + The word "cache" still lingers among the "old-timers" of the mountains and + plains, and has become a provincialism with their descendants; one of + these will tell you that he cached his vegetables in the side of the hill; + or if he is out hunting and desires to secrete himself from approaching + game, he will say, "I am going to cache behind that rock," etc. + </p> + <p> + The place where Beard's little expedition wintered was called "The Caches" + for years, and the name has only fallen into disuse within the last two + decades. I remember the great holes in the ground when I first crossed the + plains, a third of a century ago. + </p> + <p> + The immense profit upon merchandise transported across the dangerous Trail + of the mid-continent to the capital of New Mexico soon excited the + cupidity of other merchants east of the Missouri. When the commonest + domestic cloth, manufactured wholly from cotton, brought from two to three + dollars a yard at Santa Fe, and other articles at the same ratio to cost, + no wonder the commerce with the far-off market appeared to those who + desired to send goods there a veritable Golconda. + </p> + <p> + The importance of internal trade with New Mexico, and the possibilities of + its growth, were first recognized by the United States in 1824, the + originator of the movement being Mr. Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri, who + frequently, from his place in the Senate, prophesied the coming greatness + of the West. He introduced a bill which authorized the President to + appoint a commission to survey a road from the Missouri River to the + boundary line of New Mexico, and from thence on Mexican territory with the + consent of the Mexican government. The signing of this bill was one of the + last acts of Mr. Monroe's official life, and it was carried into effect by + his successor, Mr. John Quincy Adams, but unfortunately a mistake was made + in supposing that the Osage Indians alone controlled the course of the + proposed route. It was partially marked out as far as the Arkansas, by + raised mounds; but travellers continued to use the old wagon trail, and as + no negotiations had been entered into with the Comanches, Cheyennes, + Pawnees, or Kiowas, these warlike tribes continued to harass the caravans + when these arrived in the broad valley of the Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + The American fur trade was at its height at the time when the Santa Fe + trade was just beginning to assume proportions worthy of notice; the + difference between the two enterprises being very marked. The fur trade + was in the hands of immensely wealthy companies, while that to Santa Fe + was carried on by individuals with limited capital, who, purchasing goods + in the Eastern markets, had them transported to the Missouri River, where, + until the trade to New Mexico became a fixed business, everything was + packed on mules. As soon, however, as leading merchants invested their + capital, about 1824, the trade grew into vast proportions, and wagons took + the place of the patient mule. Later, oxen were substituted for mules, it + having been discovered that they possessed many advantages over the + former, particularly in being able to draw heavier loads than an equal + number of mules, especially through sandy or muddy places. + </p> + <p> + For a long time, the traders were in the habit of purchasing their mules + in Santa Fe and driving them to the Missouri; but as soon as that useful + animal was raised in sufficient numbers in the Southern States to supply + the demand, the importation from New Mexico ceased, for the reason that + the American mule was in all respects an immensely superior animal. + </p> + <p> + Once mules were an important object of the trade, and those who dealt in + them and drove them across to the river on the Trail met with many + mishaps; frequently whole droves, containing from three to five hundred, + were stolen by the savages en route. The latter soon learned that it was a + very easy thing to stampede a caravan of mules, for, once panic-stricken, + it is impossible to restrain them, and the Indians having started them + kept them in a state of rampant excitement by their blood-curdling yells, + until they had driven them miles beyond the Trail. + </p> + <p> + A story is told of a small band of twelve men, who, while encamped on the + Cimarron River, in 1826, with but four serviceable guns among them, were + visited by a party of Indians, believed to be Arapahoes, who made at first + strong demonstrations of friendship and good-will. Observing the + defenceless condition of the traders, they went away, but soon returned + about thirty strong, each provided with a lasso, and all on foot. The + chief then began by informing the Americans that his men were tired of + walking, and must have horses. Thinking it folly to offer any resistance, + the terrified traders told them if one animal apiece would satisfy them, + to go and catch them. This they soon did; but finding their request so + easily complied with, the Indians held a little parley together, which + resulted in a new demand for more—they must have two apiece! "Well, + catch them!" was the acquiescent reply of the unfortunate band; upon which + the savages mounted those they had already secured, and, swinging their + lassos over their heads, plunged among the stock with a furious yell, and + drove off the entire caballada of nearly five hundred head of horses, + mules, and asses. + </p> + <p> + In 1829 the Indians of the plains became such a terror to the caravans + crossing to Santa Fe, that the United States government, upon petition of + the traders, ordered three companies of infantry and one of riflemen, + under command of Major Bennet Riley, to escort the annual caravan, which + that year started from the town of Franklin, Missouri, then the eastern + terminus of the Santa Fe trade, as far as Chouteau's Island, on the + Arkansas, which marked the boundary between the United States and Mexico.<a + href="#linknote-16" name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a> + The caravan started from the island across the dreary route unaccompanied + by any troops, but had progressed only a few miles when it was attacked by + a band of Kiowas, then one of the most cruel and bloodthirsty tribes on + the plains.<a href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> + </p> + <p> + This escort, commanded by Major Riley, and another under Captain Wharton, + composed of only sixty dragoons, five years later, were the sole + protection ever given by the government until 1843, when Captain Philip + St. George Cooke again accompanied two large caravans to the same point on + the Arkansas as did Major Riley fourteen years before. + </p> + <p> + As the trade increased, the Comanches, Pawnees, and Arapahoes continued to + commit their depredations, and it was firmly believed by many of the + freighters that these Indians were incited to their devilish acts by the + Mexicans, who were always jealous of "Los Americanos." + </p> + <p> + It was very rarely that a caravan, great or small, or even a detachment of + troops, no matter how large, escaped the raids of these bandits of the + Trail. If the list of those who were killed outright and scalped, and + those more unfortunate who were taken captive only to be tortured and + their bodies horribly mutilated, could be collected from the opening of + the traffic with New Mexico until the years 1868-69, when General Sheridan + inaugurated his memorable "winter campaign" against the allied plains + tribes, and completely demoralized, cowed, and forced them on their + reservations, about the time of the advent of the railroad, it would + present an appalling picture; and the number of horses, mules, and oxen + stampeded and stolen during the same period would amount to thousands. + </p> + <p> + As the excellent narrative of Captain Pike is not read as it should be by + the average American, a brief reference to it may not be considered + supererogatory. The celebrated officer, who was afterward promoted to the + rank of major-general, and died in the achievement of the victory of York, + Upper Canada, in 1813, was sent in 1806 on an exploring expedition up the + Arkansas River, with instructions to pass the sources of Red River, for + which those of the Canadian were then mistaken; he, however, even went + around the head of the latter, and crossing the mountains with an almost + incredible degree of peril and suffering, descended upon the Rio del Norte + with his little party, then but fifteen in number. + </p> + <p> + Believing himself now on Red River, within the then assumed limits of the + United States, he built a small fortification for his company, until the + opening of the spring of 1807 should enable him to continue his descent to + Natchitoches. As he was really within Mexican territory, and only about + eighty miles from the northern settlements, his position was soon + discovered, and a force sent to take him to Santa Fe, which by treachery + was effected without opposition. The Spanish officer assured him that the + governor, learning that he had mistaken his way, had sent animals and an + escort to convey his men and baggage to a navigable point on Red River + (Rio Colorado), and that His Excellency desired very much to see him at + Santa Fe, which might be taken on their way. + </p> + <p> + As soon, however, as the governor had the too confiding captain in his + power, he sent him with his men to the commandant general at Chihuahua, + where most of his papers were seized, and he and his party were sent under + an escort, via San Antonio de Bexar, to the United States. + </p> + <p> + Many citizens of the remote Eastern States, who were contemporary with + Pike, declared that his expedition was in some way connected with the + treasonable attempt of Aaron Burr. The idea is simply preposterous; Pike's + whole line of conduct shows him to have been of the most patriotic + character; never would he for a moment have countenanced a proposition + from Aaron Burr! + </p> + <p> + After Captain Pike's report had been published to the world, the + adventurers who were inspired by its glowing description of the country he + had been so far to explore were destined to experience trials and + disappointments of which they had formed no conception. + </p> + <p> + Among them was a certain Captain Sublette, a famous old trapper in the era + of the great fur companies, and with him a Captain Smith, who, although + veteran pioneers of the Rocky Mountains, were mere novices in the many + complications of the Trail; but having been in the fastnesses of the great + divide of the continent, they thought that when they got down on the + plains they could go anywhere. They started with twenty wagons, and left + the Missouri without a single one of the party being competent to guide + the little caravan on the dangerous route. + </p> + <p> + From the Missouri the Trail was broad and plain enough for a child to + follow, but when they arrived at the Cimarron crossing of the Arkansas, + not a trace of former caravans was visible; nothing but the innumerable + buffalo-trails leading from everywhere to the river. + </p> + <p> + When the party entered the desert, or Dry Route, as it was years afterward + always, and very properly, called in certain seasons of drought, the brave + but too confident men discovered that the whole region was burnt up. They + wandered on for several days, the horrors of death by thirst constantly + confronting them. Water must be had or they would all perish! At last + Smith, in his desperation, determined to follow one of the numerous + buffalo-trails, believing that it would conduct him to water of some + character—a lake or pool or even wallow. He left the train alone; + asked for no one to accompany him; for he was the very impersonation of + courage, one of the most fearless men that ever trapped in the mountains. + </p> + <p> + He walked on and on for miles, when, on ascending a little divide, he saw + a stream in the valley beneath him. It was the Cimarron, and he hurried + toward it to quench his intolerable thirst. When he arrived at its bank, + to his disappointment it was nothing but a bed of sand; the sometime clear + running river was perfectly dry. + </p> + <p> + Only for a moment was he staggered; he knew the character of many streams + in the West; that often their waters run under the ground at a short + distance from the surface, and in a moment he was on his knees digging + vigorously in the soft sand. Soon the coveted fluid began to filter + upwards into the little excavation he had made. He stooped to drink, and + in the next second a dozen arrows from an ambushed band of Comanches + entered his body. He did not die at once, however; it is related by the + Indians themselves that he killed two of their number before death laid + him low. + </p> + <p> + Captain Sublette and Smith's other comrades did not know what had become + of him until some Mexican traders told them, having got the report from + the very savages who committed the cold-blooded murder. + </p> + <p> + Gregg, in his report of this little expedition, says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Every kind of fatality seems to have attended this small + caravan. Among other casualties, a clerk in their company, + named Minter, was killed by a band of Pawnees, before they + crossed the Arkansas. This, I believe, is the only instance + of loss of life among the traders while engaged in hunting, + although the scarcity of accidents can hardly be said to be + the result of prudence. There is not a day that hunters + do not commit some indescretion; such as straying at + a distance of five and even ten miles from the caravan, + frequently alone, and seldom in bands of more than two or + three together. In this state, they must frequently be + spied by prowling savages; so that frequency of escape, + under such circumstances, must be partly attributed to + the cowardice of the Indians; indeed, generally speaking, + the latter are very loth to charge upon even a single + armed man, unless they can take him at a decided advantage. + + Not long after, this band of Captain Sublette's very + narrowly escaped total destruction. They had fallen in + with an immense horde of Blackfeet and Gros Ventres, and, + as the traders were literally but a handful among thousands + of savages, they fancied themselves for a while in imminent + peril of being virtually "eated up." But as Captain + Sublette possessed considerable experience, he was at + no loss how to deal with these treacherous savages; so that + although the latter assumed a threatening attitude, + he passed them without any serious molestation, and finally + arrived at Santa Fe in safety. +</pre> + <p> + The virtual commencement of the Santa Fe trade dates from 1822, and one of + the most remarkable events in its history was the first attempt to + introduce wagons in the expeditions. This was made in 1824 by a company of + traders, about eighty in number, among whom were several gentlemen of + intelligence from Missouri, who contributed by their superior skill and + undaunted energy to render the enterprise completely successful. A portion + of this company employed pack-mules; among the rest were owned twenty-five + wheeled vehicles, of which one or two were stout road-wagons, two were + carts, and the rest Dearborn carriages, the whole conveying some + twenty-five or thirty thousand dollars' worth of merchandise. Colonel + Marmaduke, of Missouri, was one of the party. This caravan arrived at + Santa Fe safely, experiencing much less difficulty than they anticipated + from a first attempt with wheeled vehicles. + </p> + <p> + Gregg continues: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The early voyageurs, having but seldom experienced any + molestation from the Indians, generally crossed the plains + in detached bands, each individual rarely carrying more than + two or three hundred dollars' worth of stock. This peaceful + season, however, did not last very long; and it is greatly + to be feared that the traders were not always innocent of + having instigated the savage hostilities that ensued in + after years. Many seemed to forget the wholesome precept, + that they should not be savages themselves because they + dealt with savages. Instead of cultivating friendly + feelings with those few who remained peaceful and honest, + there was an occasional one always disposed to kill, + even in cold blood, every Indian that fell into their power, + merely because some of the tribe had committed an outrage + either against themselves or friends. +</pre> + <p> + As an instance of this, he relates the following: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + In 1826 two young men named McNess and Monroe, having + carelessly lain down to sleep on the bank of a certain + stream, since known as McNess Creek,<a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18">18</a> were barbarously + shot, with their own guns, as it was supposed, in the very + sight of the caravan. When their comrades came up, + they found McNess lifeless, and the other almost expiring. + In this state the latter was carried nearly forty miles to + the Cimarron River, where he died, and was buried according + to the custom of the prairies, a very summary proceeding, + necessarily. The corpse, wrapped in a blanket, its shroud + the clothes it wore, is interred in a hole varying in depth + according to the nature of the soil, and upon the grave is + piled stones, if any are convenient, to prevent the wolves + from digging it up. Just as McNess's funeral ceremonies + were about to be concluded, six or seven Indians appeared + on the opposite side of the Cimarron. Some of the party + proposed inviting them to a parley, while the rest, burning + for revenge, evinced a desire to fire upon them at once. + It is more than probable, however, that the Indians were not + only innocent but ignorant of the outrage that had been + committed, or they would hardly have ventured to approach + the caravan. Being quick of perception, they very soon saw + the belligerent attitude assumed by the company, and + therefore wheeled round and attempted to escape. One shot + was fired, which brought an Indian to the ground, when he + was instantly riddled with balls. Almost simultaneously + another discharge of several guns followed, by which all + the rest were either killed or mortally wounded, except one, + who escaped to bear the news to his tribe. + + These wanton cruelties had a most disastrous effect upon the + prospects of the trade; for the exasperated children of + the desert became more and more hostile to the "pale-faces," + against whom they continued to wage a cruel war for many + successive years. In fact this party suffered very severely + a few days afterward. They were pursued by the enraged + comrades of the slain savages to the Arkansas River, where + they were robbed of nearly a thousand horses and mules. +</pre> + <p> + The author of this book, although having but little compassion for the + Indians, must admit that, during more than a third of a century passed on + the plains and in the mountains, he has never known of a war with the + hostile tribes that was not caused by broken faith on the part of the + United States or its agents. I will refer to two prominent instances: that + of the outbreak of the Nez Perces, and that of the allied plains tribes. + With the former a solemn treaty was made in 1856, guaranteeing to them + occupancy of the Wallola valley forever. I. I. Stevens, who was governor + of Washington Territory at the time, and ex-officio superintendent of + Indian affairs in the region, met the Nez Perces, whose chief, + "Wish-la-no-she," an octogenarian, when grasping the hand of the governor + at the council said: "I put out my hand to the white man when Lewis and + Clark crossed the continent, in 1805, and have never taken it back since." + The tribe kept its word until the white men took forcible possession of + the valley promised to the Indians, when the latter broke out, and a + prolonged war was the consequence. In 1867 Congress appointed a commission + to treat with the Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Arapahoes, appropriating four + hundred thousand dollars for the expenses of the commission. It met at + Medicine Lodge in August of the year mentioned, and made a solemn treaty, + which the members of the commission, on the part of the United States, and + the principal chiefs of the three tribes signed. Congress failed to make + any appropriation to carry out the provisions of the treaty, and the + Indians, after waiting a reasonable time, broke out, devastated the + settlements from the Platte to the Rio Grande, destroying millions of + dollars' worth of property, and sacrificing hundreds of men, women, and + children. Another war was the result, which cost more millions, and under + General Sheridan the hostile savages were whipped into a peace, which they + have been compelled to keep. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. TRAINS AND PACKERS. + </h2> + <p> + As has been stated, until the year 1824 transportation across the plains + was done by means of pack-mules, the art of properly loading which seems + to be an intuitive attribute of the native Mexican. The American, of + course, soon became as expert, for nothing that the genus homo is capable + of doing is impossible to him; but his teacher was the dark-visaged, + superstitious, and profanity-expending Mexican arriero. + </p> + <p> + A description of the equipment of a mule-train and the method of packing, + together with some of the curious facts connected with its movements, may + not be uninteresting, particularly as the whole thing, with rare + exceptions in the regular army at remote frontier posts, has been + relegated to the past, along with the caravan of the prairie and the + overland coach. To this generation, barring a few officers who have served + against the Indians on the plains and in the mountains, a pack-mule train + would be as great a curiosity as the hairy mammoth. In the following + particulars I have taken as a model the genuine Mexican pack-train or + atajo, as it was called in their Spanish dialect, always used in the early + days of the Santa Fe trade. The Americans made many modifications, but the + basis was purely Mexican in its origin. A pack-mule was termed a mula de + carga, and his equipment consisted of several parts; first, the saddle, or + aparejo, a nearly square pad of leather stuffed with hay, which covered + the animal's back on both sides equally. The best idea of its shape will + be formed by opening a book in the middle and placing it saddle-fashion on + the back of a chair. Each half then forms a flap of the contrivance. + Before the aparejo was adjusted to the mule, a salea, or raw sheep-skin, + made soft by rubbing, was put on the animal's back, to prevent chafing, + and over it the saddle-cloth, or xerga. On top of both was placed the + aparejo, which was cinched by a wide grass-bandage. This band was drawn as + tightly as possible, to such an extent that the poor brute grunted and + groaned under the apparently painful operation, and when fastened he + seemed to be cut in two. This always appeared to be the very acme of + cruelty to the uninitiated, but it is the secret of successful packing; + the firmer the saddle, the more comfortably the mule can travel, with less + risk of being chafed and bruised. The aparejo is furnished with a huge + crupper, and this appendage is really the most cruel of all, for it is + almost sure to lacerate the tail. Hardly a Mexican mule in the old days of + the trade could be found which did not bear the scar of this rude + supplement to the immense saddle. + </p> + <p> + The load, which is termed a carga, was generally three hundred pounds. Two + arrieros, or packers, place the goods on the mule's back, one, the + cargador, standing on the near side, his assistant on the other. The carga + is then hoisted on top of the saddle if it is a single package; or if + there are two of equal size and weight, one on each side, coupled by a + rope, which balances them on the animal. Another stout rope is then thrown + over all, drawn as tightly as possible under the belly, and laced round + the packs, securing them firmly in their place. Over the load, to protect + it from rain, is thrown a square piece of matting called a petate. + Sometimes, when a mule is a little refractory, he is blindfolded by a thin + piece of leather, generally embroidered, termed the tapojos, and he + remains perfectly quiet while the process of packing is going on. When the + load is securely fastened in its place, the blinder is removed. The man on + the near side, with his knee against the mule for a purchase, as soon as + the rope is hauled taut, cries out "Adios," and his assistant answers + "Vaya!" Then the first says again, "Anda!" upon which the mule trots off + to its companions, all of which feed around until the animals of the whole + train are packed. It seldom requires more than five minutes for the two + men to complete the packing of the animal, and in that time is included + the fastening of the aperejo. It is surprising to note the degree of skill + exercised by an experienced packer, and his apparently abnormal strength + in handling the immense bundles that are sometimes transported. By the aid + of his knees used as a fulcrum, he lifts a package and tosses it on the + mule's back without any apparent effort, the dead weight of which he could + not move from the ground. + </p> + <p> + An old-time atajo or caravan of pack-mules generally numbered from fifty + to two hundred, and it travelled a jornado, or day's march of about twelve + or fifteen miles. This day's journey was made without any stopping at + noon, because if a pack-mule is allowed to rest, he generally tries to lie + down, and with his heavy load it is difficult for him to get on his feet + again. Sometimes he is badly strained in so doing, perhaps ruined forever. + When the train starts out on the trail, the mules are so tightly bound + with the ropes which confine the load that they move with great + difficulty; but the saddle soon settles itself and the ropes become + loosened so that they have frequently to be tightened. On the march the + arriero is kept busy nearly all the time; the packs are constantly + changing their position, frequently losing their balance and falling off; + sometimes saddle, pack, and all swing under the animal's belly, and he + must be unloaded and repacked again. + </p> + <p> + On arriving at the camping-ground the pack-saddles with their loads are + ranged in regular order, their freight being between the saddles, covered + with the petates to protect it from the rain, and generally a ditch is dug + around to carry off the water, if the weather is stormy. After two or + three days' travel each mule knows its own pack and saddle, and comes up + to it at the proper moment with an intelligence that is astonishing. If an + animal should come whose pack is somewhere else, he is soundly kicked in + the ribs by the rightful mule, and sent bruised and battered to his place. + He rarely makes a mistake in relation to the position of his own pack the + second time. + </p> + <p> + This method of transportation was so cheap, because of the low rate of + wages, that wagon-freighting, even in the most level region, could not + compete with it. Five dollars a month was the amount paid to the + muleteers, but it was oftener five with rations, costing almost nothing, + of corn and beans. Meat, if used at all, was found by the arrieros + themselves. + </p> + <p> + On the trail the mule-train is under a system of discipline almost as + severe as that on board of a man-of-war. Every individual employed is + assigned to his place and has certain duties to perform. There is a + night-herder, called the savanero, whose duty it is to keep the animals + from straying too far away, as they are all turned loose to shift for + themselves, depending upon the grass alone for their subsistence. Each + herd has a mulera, or bell-mare, which wears a bell hanging to a strap + around her neck, and is kept in view of the other animals, who will never + leave her. If the mare is taken away from the herd, every mule becomes + really melancholy and is at a loss what to do or where to go. The cook of + the party, or madre (mother) as he is called, besides his duty in + preparing the food, must lead the bell-mule ahead of the train while + travelling, the pack-animals following her with a devotion that is + remarkable. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes in traversing the narrow ledges cut around the sides of a + precipitous trail, or crossing a narrow natural bridge spanning the + frightful gorges found everywhere in the mountains, a mule will be + incontinently thrown off the slippery path, and fall hundreds of feet into + the yawning canyon below. Generally instant death is their portion, though + I recall an instance, while on an expedition against the hostile Indians + thirty years ago, where a number of mules of our pack-train, loaded with + ammunition, tumbled nearly five hundred feet down an almost perpendicular + chasm, and yet some of them got on their feet again, and soon rejoined + their companions, without having suffered any serious injury. + </p> + <p> + The wagons so long employed in this trade, after their first introduction + in 1824, were manufactured in Pittsburgh, their capacity being about a ton + and a half, and they were drawn by eight mules or the same number of oxen. + Later much larger wagons were employed with nearly double the capacity of + the first, hauled by ten and twelve mules or oxen. These latter were soon + called prairie-schooners, which name continued to linger until + transportation across the plains by wagons was completely extinguished by + the railroads. + </p> + <p> + Under Mexican rule excessive tariff imposts were instituted, amounting to + about a hundred per cent upon goods brought from the United States, and + for some years, during the administration of Governor Manuel Armijo, a + purely arbitrary duty was demanded of five hundred dollars for every + wagon-load of merchandise brought into the Province, whether great or + small, and regardless of its intrinsic value. As gold and silver were paid + for the articles brought by the traders, they were also required to pay a + heavy duty on the precious metals they took out of the country. Yankee + ingenuity, however, evaded much of these unjust taxes. When the caravan + approached Santa Fe, the freight of three wagons was transferred to one, + and the empty vehicles destroyed by fire; while to avoid paying the export + duty on gold and silver, they had large false axletrees to some of the + wagons, in which the money was concealed, and the examining officer of the + customs, perfectly unconscious of the artifice, passed them. + </p> + <p> + The army, in its expeditions against the hostile Indian tribes, always + employed wagons in transporting its provisions and munitions of war, + except in the mountains, where the faithful pack-mule was substituted. The + American freighters, since the occupation of New Mexico by the United + States, until the transcontinental railroad usurped their vocation, used + wagons only; the Mexican nomenclature was soon dropped and simple English + terms adopted: caravan became train, and majordomo, the person in charge, + wagon-master. The latter was supreme. Upon him rested all the + responsibility, and to him the teamsters rendered absolute obedience. He + was necessarily a man of quick perception, always fertile in expedients in + times of emergency, and something of an engineer; for to know how properly + to cross a raging stream or a marshy slough with an outfit of fifty or + sixty wagons required more than ordinary intelligence. Then in the case of + a stampede, great clear-headedness and coolness were needed to prevent + loss of life. + </p> + <p> + Stampedes were frequently very serious affairs, particularly with a large + mule-train. Notwithstanding the willingness and patient qualities of that + animal, he can act as absurdly as a Texas steer, and is as easily + frightened at nothing. Sometimes as insignificant a circumstance as a + prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, a figure in the + distance, or even the shadow of a passing cloud will start every animal in + the train, and away they go, rushing into each other, and becoming + entangled in such a manner that both drivers and mules have often been + crushed to death. It not infrequently happened that five or six of the + teams would dash off and never could be found. I remember one instance + that occurred on the trail between Fort Hays and Fort Dodge, during + General Sheridan's winter campaign against the allied plains tribes in + 1868. Three of the wagons were dragged away by the mules, in a few moments + were out of sight, and were never recovered, although diligent search was + made for them for some days. Ten years afterward a farmer, who had taken + up a claim in what is now Rush County, Kansas, discovered in a ravine on + his place the bones of some animals, decayed parts of harness, and the + remains of three army-wagons, which with other evidence proved them to be + the identical ones lost from the train so many years before. + </p> + <p> + The largest six-mule wagon-train that was ever strung out on the plains + transported the supplies for General Custer's command during the winter + above referred to. It comprised over eight hundred army-wagons, and was + four miles in length in one column, or one mile when in four lines—the + usual formation when in the field. + </p> + <p> + The animals of the train were either hobbled or herded at night, according + to the locality; if in an Indian country, always hobbled or, preferably, + tied up to the tongue of the wagon to which they belonged. The hobble is + simply a strip of rawhide, with two slides of the same material. Placed on + the front legs of the mule just at the fetlock, the slides pushed close to + the limb, the animal could move around freely enough to graze, but was not + able to travel very fast in the event of a stampede. In the Indian + country, it was usual at night, or in the daytime when halting to feed, to + form a corral of the wagons, by placing them in a circle, the wheels + interlocked and the tongues run under the axles, into which circle the + mules, on the appearance of the savages, were driven, and which also made + a sort of fortress behind which the teamsters could more effectually repel + an attack. + </p> + <p> + In the earlier trading expeditions to Santa Fe, the formation and march of + the caravan differed materially from that of the army-train in later + years. I here quote Gregg, whose authority on the subject has never been + questioned. When all was ready to move out on the broad sea of prairie, he + said: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We held a council, at which the respective claims of the + different aspirants for office were considered, leaders + selected, and a system of government agreed upon—as is + the standing custom of these promiscuous caravans. + A captain was proclaimed elected, but his powers were not + defined by any constitutional provision; consequently, + they were very vague and uncertain. Orders being only + viewed as mere requests, they are often obeyed or neglected + at the caprice of the subordinates. It is necessary to + observe, however, that the captain is expected to direct + the order of travel during the day and to designate the + camping-ground at night, with many other functions of + general character, in the exercise of which the company + find it convenient to acquiesce. + + After this comes the task of organizing. The proprietors + are first notified by proclamation to furnish a list of + their men and wagons. The latter are generally apportioned + into four divisions, particularly when the company is large. + To each of these divisions, a lieutenant is appointed, + whose duty it is to inspect every ravine and creek on the + route, select the best crossings, and superintend what is + called in prairie parlance the forming of each encampment. + + There is nothing so much dreaded by inexperienced travellers + as the ordeal of guard duty. But no matter what the + condition or employment of the individual may be, no one + has the slightest chance of evading the common law of + the prairies. The amateur tourist and the listless loafer + are precisely in the same wholesome predicament—they must + all take their regular turn at the watch. There is usually + a set of genteel idlers attached to every caravan, whose + wits are forever at work in devising schemes for whiling + away their irksome hours at the expense of others. + By embarking in these trips of pleasure, they are enabled + to live without expense; for the hospitable traders seldom + refuse to accommodate even a loafing companion with a berth + at their mess without charge. But these lounging attaches + are expected at least to do good service by way of guard + duty. None are ever permitted to furnish a substitute, + as is frequently done in military expeditions; for he that + would undertake to stand the tour of another besides + his own would scarcely be watchful enough for dangers + of the prairies. Even the invalid must be able to produce + unequivocal proofs of his inability, or it is a chance + if the plea is admitted. + + The usual number of watchers is eight, each standing a + fourth of every alternate night. When the party is small, + the number is generally reduced, while in the case of + very small bands, they are sometimes compelled for safety's + sake to keep watch on duty half the night. With large + caravans the captain usually appoints eight sergeants + of the guard, each of whom takes an equal portion of men + under his command. + + The wild and motley aspect of the caravan can be but + imperfectly conceived without an idea of the costumes of + its various members. The most fashionable prairie dress + is the fustian frock of the city-bred merchant, furnished + with a multitude of pockets capable of accommodating a + variety of extra tackling. Then there is the backwoodsman + with his linsey or leather hunting-shirt—the farmer with + his blue jean coat—the wagoner with his flannel sleeve + vest—besides an assortment of other costumes which go + to fill up the picture. + + In the article of firearms there is also an equally + interesting medley. The frontier hunter sticks to his + rifle, as nothing could induce him to carry what he terms + in derision "the scatter-gun." The sportsman from the + interior flourishes his double-barrelled fowling-piece + with equal confidence in its superiority. A great many + were furnished beside with a bountiful supply of pistols + and knives of every description, so that the party made + altogether a very brigand-like appearance. + + "Catch up! Catch up!" is now sounded from the captain's + camp and echoed from every division and scattered group + along the valley. The woods and dales resound with the + gleeful yells of the light-hearted wagoners who, weary of + inaction and filled with joy at the prospect of getting + under way, become clamorous in the extreme. Each teamster + vies with his fellow who shall be soonest ready; and it + is a matter of boastful pride to be the first to cry out, + "All's set." + + The uproarious bustle which follows, the hallooing of those + in pursuit of animals, the exclamations which the unruly + brutes call forth from their wrathful drivers, together + with the clatter of bells, the rattle of yokes and harness, + the jingle of chains, all conspire to produce an uproarious + confusion. It is sometimes amusing to observe the athletic + wagoner hurrying an animal to its post—to see him heave + upon the halter of a stubborn mule, while the brute as + obstinately sets back, determined not to move a peg till + his own good pleasure thinks it proper to do so—his whole + manner seeming to say, "Wait till your hurry's over." + I have more than once seen a driver hitch a harnessed animal + to the halter, and by that process haul his mulishness + forward, while each of his four projected feet would leave + a furrow behind. + + "All's set!" is finally heard from some teamster— + "All's set," is directly responded from every quarter. + "Stretch out!" immediately vociferates the captain. + Then the "heps!" to the drivers, the cracking of whips, + the trampling of feet, the occasional creak of wheels, + the rumbling of the wagons, while "Fall in" is heard from + head-quarters, and the train is strung out and in a few + moments has started on its long journey. +</pre> + <p> + With an army-train the discipline was as perfect as that of a garrison. + The wagon-master was under the orders of the commander of the troops which + escorted the caravan, the camps were formed with regard to strategic + principles, sentries walked their beats and were visited by an officer of + the day, as if stationed at a military post. + </p> + <p> + Unquestionably the most expert packer I have known is Chris. Gilson, of + Kansas. In nearly all the expeditions on the great plains and in the + mountains he has been the master-spirit of the pack-trains. General + Sheridan, who knew Gilson long before the war, in Oregon and Washington, + regarded the celebrated packer with more than ordinary friendship. For + many years he was employed by the government at the suggestion of General + Sheridan, to teach the art of packing to the officers and enlisted men at + several military posts in the West. He received a large salary, and for a + long period was stationed at the immense cavalry depot of Fort Riley, in + Kansas. Gilson was also employed by the British army during the Zulu war + in Africa, as chief packer, at a salary of twenty dollars a day. Now, + however, since the railroads have penetrated the once considered + impenetrable fastnesses of the mountains, packing will be relegated to the + lost arts. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. FIGHT WITH COMANCHES. + </h2> + <p> + Early in the spring of 1828, a company of young men residing in the + vicinity of Franklin, Missouri, having heard related by a neighbour who + had recently returned the wonderful story of a passage across the great + plains, and the strange things to be seen in the land of the Greasers, + determined to explore the region for themselves; making the trip in + wagons, an innovation of a startling character, as heretofore only + pack-animals had been employed in the limited trade with far-off Santa Fe. + The story of their journey can best be told in the words of one of the + party:<a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a>— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We had about one thousand miles to travel, and as there was + no wagon-road in those early days across the plains to the + mountains, we were compelled to take our chances through + the vast wilderness, seeking the best route we could. + + No signs of life were visible except the innumerable buffalo + and antelope that were constantly crossing our trail. + We moved on slowly from day to day without any incident + worth recording and arrived at the Arkansas; made the + passage and entered the Great American Desert lying beyond, + as listless, lonesome, and noiseless as a sleeping sea. + Having neglected to carry any water with us, we were obliged + to go withot a drop for two days and nights after leaving + the river. At last we reached the Cimarron, a cool, + sparkling stream, ourselves and our animals on the point + of perishing. Our joy at discovering it, however, was + short-lived. We had scarcely quenched our thirst when + we saw, to our dismay, a large band of Indians camped on + its banks. Their furtive glances at us, and significant + looks at each other, aroused our worst suspicions, and + we instinctively felt we were not to get away without + serious trouble. Contrary to our expectations, however, + they did not offer to molest us, and we at once made up + our minds they preferred to wait for our return, as we + believed they had somehow learned of our intention to bring + back from New Mexico a large herd of mules and ponies. + + We arrived in Santa Fe on the 20th of July, without further + adventure, and after having our stock of goods passed + through the custom house, were granted the privilege of + selling them. The majority of the party sold out in a + very short time and started on their road to the States, + leaving twenty-one of us behind to return later. + + On the first day of September, those of us who had remained + in Santa Fe commenced our homeward journey. We started + with one hundred and fifty mules and horses, four wagons, + and a large amount of silver coin. Nothing of an eventful + character occurred until we arrived at the Upper Cimarron + Springs, where we intended to encamp for the night. + But our anticipations of peaceable repose were rudely + dispelled; for when we rode up on the summit of the hill, + the sight that met our eyes was appalling enough to excite + the gravest apprehensions. It was a large camp of + Comanches, evidently there for the purpose of robbery + and murder. We could neither turn back nor go on either + side of them on account of the mountainous character of + the country, and we realized, when too late, that we were + in a trap. + + There was only one road open to us; that right through + the camp. Assuming the bravest look possible, and keeping + our rifles in position for immediate action, we started + on the perilous venture. The chief met us with a smile + of welcome, and said, in Spanish: "You must stay with us + to-night. Our young men will guard your stock, and we have + plenty of buffalo meat." + + Realizing the danger of our situation, we took advantage + of every moment of time to hurry through their camp. + Captain Means, Ellison, and myself were a little distance + behind the wagons, on horseback; observing that the balance + of our men were evading them, the blood-thirsty savages + at once threw off their masks of dissimulation and in an + instant we knew the time for a struggle had arrived. + + The Indians, as we rode on, seized our bridle-reins and + began to fire upon us. Ellison and I put spurs to our + horses and got away, but Captain Means, a brave man, + was ruthlessly shot and cruelly scalped while the life-blood + was pouring from his ghastly wounds. + + We succeeded in fighting them off until we had left their + camp half a mile behind, and as darkness had settled down + on us, we decided to go into camp ourselves. We tied our + gray bell-mare to a stake, and went out and jingled the + bell, whenever any of us could do so, thus keeping the + animals from stampeding. We corralled our wagons for + better protection, and the Indians kept us busy all night + resisting their furious charges. We all knew that death + at our posts would be infinitely preferable to falling + into their hands; so we resolved to sell our lives as + dearly as possible. + + The next day we made but five miles; it was a continuous + fight, and a very difficult matter to prevent their + capturing us. This annoyance was kept up for four days; + they would surround us, then let up as if taking time to + renew their strength, to suddenly charge upon us again, + and they continued thus to harass us until we were almost + exhausted from loss of sleep. + + After leaving the Cimarron, we once more emerged on the + open plains and flattered ourselves we were well rid of + the savages; but about twelve o'clock they came down on us + again, uttering their demoniacal yells, which frightened + our horses and mules so terribly, that we lost every hoof. + A member of our party, named Hitt, in endeavouring to + recapture some of the stolen stock, was taken by the + savages, but luckily escaped from their clutches, after + having been wounded in sixteen parts of his body; + he was shot, tomahawked, and speared. When the painted + demons saw that one of their number had been killed by us, + they left the field for a time, while we, taking advantage + of the temporary lull, went back to our wagons and built + breastworks of them, the harness, and saddles. From noon + until two hours in the night, when the moon went down, + the savages were apparently confident we would soon fall + a prey to them, and they made charge after charge upon + our rude fortifications. + + Darkness was now upon us. There were two alternatives + before us: should we resolve to die where we were, or + attempt to escape in the black hours of the night? + It was a desperate situation. Our little band looked + the matter squarely in the face, and, after a council + of war had been held, we determined to escape, if possible. + + In order to carry out our resolve, it was necessary to + abandon the wagons, together with a large amount of silver + coin, as it would be impossible to take all of the precious + stuff with us in our flight; so we packed up as much of it + as we could carry, and, bidding our hard-earned wealth + a reluctant farewell, stepped out in the darkness like + spectres and hurried away from the scene of death. + + Our proper course was easterly, but we went in a northerly + direction in order to avoid the Indians. We travelled + all that night, the next day, and a portion of its night + until we reached the Arkansas River, and, having eaten + nothing during that whole time excepting a few prickly-pears, + were beginning to feel weak from the weight of our burdens + and exhaustion. At this point we decided to lighten + our loads by burying all of the money we had carried + thus far, keeping only a small sum for each man. + Proceeding to a small island in the river, our treasure, + amounting to over ten thousand silver dollars, was cached + in the ground between two cottonwood trees. + + Believing now that we were out of the usual range of + the predatory Indians, we shot a buffalo and an antelope + which we cooked and ate without salt or bread; but no meal + has ever tasted better to me than that one. + + We continued our journey northward for three or four days + more, when, reaching Pawnee Fork, we travelled down it for + more than a week, arriving again on the Old Santa Fe Trail. + Following the Trail three days, we arrived at Walnut Creek, + then left the river again and went eastwardly to Cow Creek. + When we reached that point, we had become so completely + exhausted and worn out from subsisting on buffalo meat + alone, that it seemed as if there was nothing left for + us to do but lie down and die. Finally it was determined + to send five of the best-preserved men on ahead to + Independence, two hundred miles, for the purpose of + procuring assistance; the other fifteen to get along + as well as they could until succour reached them. + + I was one of the five selected to go on in advance, and + I shall never forget the terrible suffering we endured. + We had no blankets, and it was getting late in the fall. + Some of us were entirely barefooted, and our feet so sore + that we left stains of blood at every step. Deafness, too, + seized upon us so intensely, occasioned by our weak + condition, that we coud not hear the report of a gun fired + at a distance of only a few feet. + + At one place two of our men laid down their arms, declaring + they could carry them no farther, and would die if they + did not get water. We left them and went in search of some. + After following a dry branch several miles, we found + a muddy puddle from which we succeeded in getting half + a bucket full, and, although black and thick, it was life + for us and we guarded it with jealous eyes. We returned + to our comrades about daylight, and the water so refreshed + them they were able to resume the weary march. We travelled + on until we arrived at the Big Blue River, in Missouri, + on the bank of which we discovered a cabin about fifteen + miles from Independence. The occupants of the rude shanty + were women, seemingly very poor, but they freely offered us + a pot of pumpkin they were stewing. When they first saw us, + they were terribly frightened, because we looked more like + skeletons than living beings. They jumped on the bed while + we were greedily devouring the pumpkin, but we had to + refuse some salt meat which they had also proffered, + as our teeth were too sore to eat it. In a short time + two men came to the cabin and took three of our men + home with them. We had subsisted for eleven days on + one turkey, a coon, a crow, and some elm bark, with an + occasional bunch of wild grapes, and the pictures we + presented to these good people they will never, probably, + forget; we had not tasted bread or salt for thirty-two days. + + The next day our newly found friends secured horses and + guided us to Independence, all riding without saddles. + One of the party had gone on to notify the citizens of + our safety, and when we arrived general muster was going on, + the town was crowded, and when the people looked upon us + the most intense excitement prevailed. All business was + suspended; the entire population flocked around us to hear + the remarkable story of our adventures, and to render us + the assistance we so much needed. We were half-naked, + foot-sore, and haggard, presenting such a pitiable picture + that the greatest sympathy was immediately aroused in + our behalf. + + We then said that behind us on the Trail somewhere, fifteen + comrades were struggling toward Independence, or were + already dead from their sufferings. In a very few minutes + seven men with fifteen horses started out to rescue them. + + They were gone from Independence several days, but had the + good fortune to find all the men just in time to save them + from starvation and exhaustion. Two were discovered + a hundred miles from Independence, and the remainder + scattered along the Trail fifty miles further in their rear. + Not more than two of the unfortunate party were together. + The humane rescuers seemingly brought back nothing but + living skeletons wrapped in rags; but the good people of + the place vied with each other in their attentions, and + under their watchful care the sufferers rapidly recuperated. + + One would suppose that we had had enough of the great plains + after our first trip; not so, however, for in the spring + we started again on the same journey. Major Riley, with + four companies of regular soldiers, was detailed to escort + the Santa Fe traders' caravans to the boundary line between + the United States and Mexico, and we went along to recover + the money we had buried, the command having been ordered to + remain in camp to await our return until the 20th of October. + + We left Fort Leavenworth about the 10th of May, and were + soon again on the plains. Many of the troops had never + seen any buffalo before, and found great sport in wantonly + slaughtering them. At Walnut Creek we halted to secure + a cannon which had been thrown into that stream two seasons + previously, and succeeded in dragging it out. With a seine + made of brush and grape vine, we caught more fine fish than + we could possibly dispose of. One morning the camp was + thrown into the greatest state of excitement by a band of + Indians running an enormous herd of buffalo right into us. + The troops fired at them by platoons, killing hundreds + of them. + + We marched in two columns, and formed a hollow square + at night when we camped, in which all slept excepting + those on guard duty. Frequently some one would discover + a rattlesnake or a horned toad in bed with him, and it + did not take him a very long time to crawl out of his + blankets! + + On the 10th of July, we arrived at the dividing line + separating the two countries, and went into camp. The next + day Major Riley sent a squad of soldiers to escort myself + and another of our old party, who had helped bury the + ten thousand dollars, to find it. It was a few miles + further up the Arkansas than our camp, in the Mexican + limits, and when we reached the memorable spot on the + island,<a href="#linknote-20" name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20">20</a> we found the coin safe, but the water had + washed the earth away, and the silver was exposed to view + to excite the cupidity of any one passing that way; + there were not many travellers on that lonely route in + those days, however, and it would have been just as secure, + probably, had we simply poured it on the ground. + + We put the money in sacks and deposited it with Major Riley, + and, leaving the camp, started for Santa Fe with Captain + Bent as leader of the traders. We had not proceeded far + when our advanced guard met Indians. They turned, and when + within two hundred yards of us, one man named Samuel Lamme + was killed, his body being completely riddled with arrows. + His head was cut off, and all his clothes stripped from + his body. We had a cannon, but the Mexicans who hauled it + had tied it up in such a way that it could not be utilized + in time to effect anything in the first assault; but when + at last it was turned loose upon the Indians, they fled + in dismay at the terrible noise. + + The troops at the crossing of the Arkansas, hearing the + firing, came to our assistance. The next morning the + hills were covered by fully two thousand Indians, who had + evidently congregated there for the purpose of annihilating + us, and the coming of the soldiers was indeed fortunate; + for as soon as the cowardly savages discovered them + they fled. Major Riley accompanied us on our march for + a few days, and, seeing no more Indians, he returned to + his camp. + + We travelled on for a week, then met a hundred Mexicans + who were out on the plains hunting buffalo. They had + killed a great many and were drying the meat. We waited + until they were ready to return and then all started for + Santa Fe together. + + At Rabbit-Ear Mountain the Indians had constructed + breastworks in the brush, intending to fight it out there. + The Mexicans were in the advance and had one of their + number killed before discovering the enemy. We passed + Point of Rocks and camped on the river. One of the + Mexicans went out hunting and shot a huge panther; + next morning he asked a companion to go with him and help + skin the animal. They saw the Indians in the brush, and + the one who had killed the panther said to the other, + "Now for the mountains"; but his comrade retreated, + and was despatched by the savages almost within reach + of the column. + + We now decided to change our destination, intending to go + to Taos instead of Santa Fe, but the governor of the + Province sent out troops to stop us, as Taos was not a + place of entry. The soldiers remained with us a whole week, + until we arrived at Santa Fe, where we disposed of our goods + and soon began to make preparations for our return trip. + + When we were ready to start back, seven priests and a + number of wealthy families, comfortably fixed in carriages, + accompanied us. The Mexican government ordered Colonel + Viscarra of the army, with five troops of cavalry, + to guard us to the camp of Major Riley. + + We experienced no trouble until we arrived at the + Cimarron River. About sunset, just as we were preparing + to camp for the night, the sentinels saw a body of a + hundred Indians approaching; they fired at them and ran + to camp. Knowing they had been discovered, the Indians + came on and made friendly overtures; but the Pueblos who + who were with the command of Colonel Viscarra wanted to + fight them at once, saying the fellows meant mischief. + We declined to camp with them unless they would agree to + give up their arms; they pretended they were willing to + do so, when one of them put his gun at the breast of our + interpreter and pulled the trigger. In an instant a bloody + scene ensued; several of Viscarra's men were killed, + together with a number of mules. Finally the Indians + were whipped and tried to get away, but we chased them + some distance and killed thirty-five. Our friendly Pueblos + were delighted, and proceeded to scalp the savages, + hanging the bloody trophies on the points of their spears. + That night they indulged in a war-dance which lasted + until nearly morning. + + We were delighted to see a beautiful sunshiny day after + the horrors of the preceding night, and continued our march + without farther interruption, safely arriving at the camp + on the boundary line, where Major Riley was waiting for us, + as we supposed; but his time having expired the day before, + he had left for Fort Leavenworth. A courier was despatched + to him, however, as Colonel Viscarra desired to meet the + American commander and see his troops. The courier overtook + Major Riley a short distance away, and he halted for us + to come up. Both commands then went into camp, and spent + several days comparing the discipline of the armies of + the two nations, and having a general good time. + Colonel Viscarra greatly admired our small arms, and + took his leave in a very courteous manner. + + We arrived at Fort Leavenworth late in the season, and + from there we all scattered. I received my share of the + money we had cached on the island, and bade my comrades + farewell, only a few of whom I have ever seen since. +</pre> + <p> + Mr. Hitt in his notes of this same perilous trip says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + When the grass had sufficiently started to insure the + subsistence of our teams, our wagons were loaded with + a miscellaneous assortment of merchandise and the first + trader's caravan of wagons that ever crossed the plains + left Independence. Before we had travelled three weeks + on our journey, we were one evening confronted with the + novel fact of camping in a country where not a stick of + wood could be found. The grass was too green to burn, + and we were wondering how our fire could be started + with which to boil our coffee, or cook our bread. One of + our number, however, while diligently searching for + something to utilize, suddenly discovered scattered all + around him a large quantity of buffalo-chips, and he soon + had an excellent fire under way, his coffee boiling and + his bacon sizzling over the glowing coals. + + We arrived in Santa Fe without incident, and as ours + was the first train of wagons that ever traversed the + narrow streets of the quaint old town, it was, of course, + a great curiosity to the natives. + + After a few days' rest, sight-seeing, and purchasing stock + to replace our own jaded animals, preparations were made + for the return trip. All the money we had received for + our goods was in gold and silver, principally the latter, + in consequence of which, each member of the company had + about as much as he could conveniently manage, and, + as events turned out, much more than he could take care of. + + On the morning of the third day out, when we were not + looking for the least trouble, our entire herd was + stampeded, and we were left upon the prairie without + as much as a single mule to pursue the fast-fleeing + thieves. The Mexicans and Indians had come so suddenly + upon us, and had made such an effective dash, that we + stood like children who had broken their toys on a stone + at their feet. We were so unprepared for such a stampede + that the thieves did not approach within rifle-shot range + of the camp to accomplish their object; few of them + coming within sight, even. + + After the excitement had somewhat subsided and we began + to realize what had been done, it was decided that while + some should remain to guard the camp, others must go to + Santa Fe to see if they could not recover the stock. + The party that went to Santa Fe had no difficulty in + recognizing the stolen animals; but when they claimed them, + they were laughed at by the officials of the place. + They experienced no difficulty, however, in purchasing + the same stock for a small sum, which they at once did, + and hurried back to camp. By this unpleasant episode + we learned of the stealth and treachery of the miserable + people in whose country we were. We, therefore, took every + precaution to prevent a repetition of the affair, and + kept up a vigilant guard night and day. + + Matters progressed very well, and when we had travelled + some three hundred miles eastwardly, thinking we were + out of range of any predatory bands, as we had seen no + sign of any living thing, we relaxed our vigilance somewhat. + One morning, just before dawn, the whole earth seemed to + resound with the most horrible noises that ever greeted + human ears; every blade of grass appeared to re-echo + the horrid din. In a few moments every man was at his post, + rifle in hand, ready for any emergency, and almost + immediately a large band of Indians made their appearance, + riding within rifle-shot of the wagons. A continuous + battle raged for several hours, the savages discharging + a shot, then scampering off out of range as fast as + their ponies could carry them. Some, more brave than + others would venture closer to the corral, and one of these + got the contents of an old-fashioned flint-lock musket + in his bowels. + + We were careful not all to fire at the same time, and + several of our party, who were watching the effects of + our shots declared they could see the dust fly out of + the robes of the Indians as the bullets struck them. + It was learned afterward that a number of the savages + were wounded, and that several had died. Many were armed + with bows and arrows only, and in order to do any execution + were obliged to come near the corral. The Indians soon + discovered they were getting the worst of the fight, and, + having run off all the stock, abandoned the conflict, + leaving us in possession of the camp, but it can hardly + be said masters of the situation. + + There we were; thirty-five pioneers upon the wild prairie, + surrounded by a wily and terribly cruel foe, without + transportation of any character but our own legs, and with + five hundred miles of dangerous, trackless waste between + us and the settlements. We had an abundance of money, + but the stuff was absolutely worthless for the present, + as there was nothing we could buy with it. + + After the last savage had ridden away into the sand hills + on the opposite side of the river, each one of us had a + thrilling story to relate of his individual narrow escapes. + Though none was killed, many received wounds, the scars + of which they carried through life. I was wounded six + times. Once was in the thigh by an arrow, and once while + loading my rifle I had my ramrod shot off close to the + muzzle of my piece, the ball just grazing my shoulder, + tearing away a small portion of the skin. Others had + equally curious experiences, but none were seriously injured. + + After the excitement incident to the battle had subsided, + the realization of our condition fully dawned upon us. + When we were first robbed, we were only a short distance + from Santa Fe, where our money easily procured other stock; + now there were three hundred miles behind us to that place, + and the picture was anything but pleasant to contemplate. + To transport supplies for thirty-five men seemed impossible. + Our money was now a burden greater than we could bear; + what was to be done with it? We would have no use for it + on our way to the settlements, yet the idea of abandoning + it seemed hard to accept. A vigilant guard was kept up + that day and night, during which time we all remained + in camp, fearing a renewal of the attack. + + The next morning, as there were no apparent signs of + the Indians, it was decided to reconnoitre the surrounding + country in the hope of recovering a portion, at least, + of our lost stock, which we thought might have become + separated from the main herd. Three men were detailed + to stay in the old camp to guard it while the remainder, + in squads, scoured the hills and ravines. Not a horse + or mule was visible anywhere; the stampede had been + complete—not even the direction the animals had taken + could be discovered. + + It was late in the afternoon when I, having left my + companions to continue the search and returning to camp + alone, had gotten within a mile of it, that I thought I saw + a horse feeding upon an adjoining hill. I at once turned + my steps in that direction, and had proceeded but a short + distance when three Indians jumped from their ambush in + the grass between me and the wagons and ran after me. + The men in camp had been watching my every movement, + and as soon as they saw the savages were chasing me, + they started in pursuit, running at their greatest speed + to my rescue. + + The savages soon overtook me, and the first one that + came up tackled me, but in an instant found himself flat + on the ground. Before he could get up, the second one + shared the same fate. By this time the third one arrived, + and the two I had thrown grabbed me by the legs so that + I could no longer handle myself, while the third one had + a comparatively easy task in pushing me over. Fortunately, + my head fell toward the camp and my fast-approaching + comrades. The two Indians held my legs to prevent my + rising, while the third one, who was standing over me, + drew from his belt a tomahawk, and shrugging his head + in his blanket, at the same time looking over his shoulder + at my friends, with a tremendous effort and that peculiar + grunt of all savages, plunged his hatchet, as he supposed, + into my head, but instead of scuffling to free myself + and rise to my feet, I merely turned my head to one side + and the wicked weapon was buried in the ground, just + grazing my ear. + + The Indian, seeing that he had missed, raised his hatchet + and once more shrugging his head in his blanket, and + turning to look over his other shoulder, attempted to + strike again, but the blow was evaded by a sudden toss + of his intended victim's head. Not satisfied with two + abortive trials, the third attempt must be made to brain me, + and repeating the same motions, with a great "Ugh!" he + seemed to put all his strength into the blow, which, like + the others, missed, and spent its force in the earth. + By this time the rescuing party had come near enough to + prevent the savage from risking another effort, and he then + addressed the other Indians in Spanish, which I understood, + saying, "We must run or the Americans will kill us!" + and loosening his grasp, he scampered off with his + companions as fast as his legs could take him, hurried on + by several pieces of lead fired from the old flintlocks + of the traders. + + By sundown every man had returned to the forlorn camp, + but not an animal had been recovered. Then, with tired + limbs and weary hearts, we took turns at guarding the + wagons through the long night. The next morning each man + shouldered his rifle, and having had his proportion of + the provisions and cooking utensils assigned him, + we broke camp, and again turned to take a last look at + the country behind us, in which we had experienced so much + misfortune, and started on foot for our long march through + the dangerous region ahead of us. + + Scarcely had we gotten out of sight of our abandoned camp, + when one of the party, happening to turn his eyes in that + direction, saw a large volume of smoke rising in the + vicinity; then we knew that all of our wagons, and + everything we had been forced to leave, were burning up. + This proved that, although we had been unable to discover + any signs of Indians, they had been lurking around us + all the time, and this fact warned us to exercise the + utmost vigilance in guarding our persons. + + Though our burdens were very heavy, the first few days + were passed without anything to relieve the dreadful + monotony of our wearisome march; but each succeeding + twenty-four hours our loads became visibly lighter, + as our supplies were rapidly diminishing. It had already + become apparent that even in the exercise of the greatest + frugality, our stock of provisions would not last until + we could reach the settlements, so some of the most expert + shots were selected to hunt for game; but even in this + they were not successful, the very birds seeming to have + abandoned the country in its extreme desolation. + + After eight days' travel, despite our most rigid economy, + an inventory showed that there was less than one hundred + pounds of flour left. Day after day the hunters repeated + the same old story: "No game!" For two weeks the allowance + of flour to each individual was but a spoonful, stirred + in water and taken three times a day. + + One afternoon, however, fortune smiled upon the weary party; + one of the hunters returned to camp with a turkey he had + killed. It was soon broiling over a fire which willing + hands had kindled, and our drooping spirits were revived + for a while. While the turkey was cooking, a crow flew + over the camp, and one of the company, seizing a gun, + despatched it, and in a few moments it, too, was sizzling + along with the other bird. + + Now, in addition to the pangs of hunger, a scarcity of + water confronted us, and one day we were compelled to + resort to a buffalo-wallow and suck the moist clay where + the huge animals had been stamping in the mud. We were + much reduced in strength, yet each day added new + difficulties to our forlorn situation. Some became so weak + and exhausted that it was with the greatest effort they + could travel at all. To divide the company and leave + the more feeble behind to starve, or to be murdered by + the merciless savages, was not considered for a moment; + but one alternative remained, and that was speedily accepted. + As soon as a convenient camping-ground could be found, + a halt was made, shelter established, and things made as + comfortable as possible. Here the weakest remained to rest, + while some of the strongest scoured the surrounding country + in search of game. During this temporary halt the hunters + were more successful than before, having killed two + buffaloes, besides some smaller animals, in one morning. + Again the natural dry fuel of the prairies was called + into requisition, and juicy steak was once more broiling + over the fire. + + With an abundance to eat and a few days' rest, the whole + company revived and were enabled to renew their march + homeward. We were now in the buffalo range, and every day + the hunters were fortunate enough to kill one or more of + the immense animals, thus keeping our larder in excellent + condition, and starvation averted. + + Doubting whether our good fortune in relation to food + would continue for the remainder of our march, and our + money becoming very cumbersome, it was decided by a majority + that at the first good place we came to we would bury it + and risk its being stolen by our enemies. When not more + than half of our journey had been accomplished, we came + to an island in the river to which we waded, and there, + between two large trees, dug a hole and deposited our + treasure. We replaced the sod over the spot, taking the + utmost precaution to conceal every sign of having disturbed + the ground. Though no Indians had been seen for several + days, a sharp lookout was kept in all directions for fear + that some lurking savage might have been watching our + movements. This task finished, with much lighter burdens, + but more anxious than ever, we again took up our march + eastwardly, and, thus relieved, were able to carry a + greater quantity of provisions. + + Having journeyed until we supposed we were within a few + miles of the settlements, some of our number, scarcely able + to travel, thought the best course to pursue would be to + divide the company; one portion to press on, the weaker + ones to proceed by easier stages, and when the advance + arrived at the settlements, they were to send back a relief + for those plodding on wearily behind them. Soon a few + who were stronger than the others reached Independence, + Missouri, and immediately sent a party with horses to + bring in their comrades; so, at last, all got safely to + their homes. +</pre> + <p> + In the spring of 1829, Major Bennett Riley of the United States army was + ordered with four companies of the Sixth Regular Infantry to march out on + the Trail as the first military escort ever sent for the protection of the + caravans of traders going and returning between Western Missouri and Santa + Fe. Captain Philip St. George Cooke, of the Dragoons, accompanied the + command, and kept a faithful journal of the trip, from which, and the + official report of Major Riley to the Secretary of War, I have + interpolated here copious extracts. + </p> + <p> + The journal of Captain Cooke states that the battalion marched from Fort + Leavenworth, which was then called a cantonment, and, strange to say, had + been abandoned by the Third Infantry on account of its unhealthiness. It + was the 5th of June that Riley crossed the Missouri at the cantonment, and + recrossed the river again at a point a little above Independence, in order + to avoid the Kaw, or Kansas, which had no ferry. + </p> + <p> + After five days' marching, the command arrived at Round Grove, where the + caravan had been ordered to rendezvous and wait for the escort. The number + of traders aggregated about seventy-nine men, and their train consisted of + thirty-eight wagons drawn by mules and horses, the former preponderating. + Five days' marching, at an average of fifteen miles a day, brought them to + Council Grove. Leaving the Grove, in a short time Cow Creek was reached, + which at that date abounded in fish; many of which, says the journal, + "weighed several pounds, and were caught as fast as the line could be + handled." The captain does not describe the variety to which he refers; + probably they were the buffalo—a species of sucker, to be found + to-day in every considerable stream in Kansas. + </p> + <p> + Having reached the Upper Valley,<a href="#linknote-21" + name="linknoteref-21" id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a> bordered + by high sand hills, the journal continues: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + From the tops of the hills, we saw far away, in almost + every direction, mile after mile of prairie, blackened + with buffalo. One morning, when our march was along the + natural meadows by the river, we passed through them for + miles; they opened in front and closed continually in + the rear, preserving a distance scarcely over three hundred + paces. On one occasion, a bull had approached within + two hundred yards without seeing us, until he ascended + the river bank; he stood a moment shaking his head, and + then made a charge at the column. Several officers + stepped out and fired at him, two or three dogs also rushed + to meet him; but right onward he came, snorting blood + from mouth and nostril at every leap, and, with the speed + of a horse and the momentum of a locomotive, dashed + between two wagons, which the frightened oxen nearly upset; + the dogs were at his heels and soon he came to bay, and, + with tail erect, kicked violently for a moment, and then + sank in death—the muscles retaining the dying rigidity + of tension. +</pre> + <p> + About the middle of July, the command arrived at its destination—Chouteau's + Island, then on the boundary line between the United States and New + Mexico. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Our orders were to march no further; and, as a protection + to the trade, it was like the establishment of a ferry + to the mid-channel of a river. + + Up to this time, traders had always used mules or horses. + Our oxen were an experiment, and it succeeded admirably; + they even did better when water was very scarce, which is + an important consideration. + + A few hours after the departure of the trading company, + as we enjoyed a quiet rest on a hot afternoon, we saw + beyond the river a number of horsemen riding furiously + toward our camp. We all flocked out of the tents to hear + the news, for they were soon recognized as traders. + They stated that the caravan had been attacked, about + six miles off in the sand hills, by an innumerable host + of Indians; that some of their companions had been killed; + and they had run, of course, for help. There was not a + moment's hesitation; the word was given, and the tents + vanished as if by magic. The oxen which were grazing + near by were speedily yoked to the wagons, and into the + river we marched. Then I deemed myself the most unlucky + of men; a day or two before, while eating my breakfast, + with my coffee in a tin cup—notorious among chemists and + campaigners for keeping it hot—it was upset into my shoe, + and on pulling off the stocking, it so happened that the + skin came with it. Being thus hors de combat, I sought to + enter the combat on a horse, which was allowed; but I was + put in command of the rear guard to bring up the baggage + train. It grew late, and the wagons crossed slowly; + for the river unluckily took that particular time to + rise fast, and, before all were over, we had to swim it, + and by moonlight. We reached the encampment at one o'clock + at night. All was quiet, and remained so until dawn, + when, at the sound of our bugles, the pickets reported + they saw a number of Indians moving off. On looking + around us, we perceived ourselves and the caravan in the + most unfavorable defenceless situation possible—in the + area of a natural amphitheatre of sand hills, about fifty + feet high, and within gun-shot all around. There was + the narrowest practicable entrance and outlet. + + We ascertained that some mounted traders, in spite of all + remonstrance and command, had ridden on in advance, and + when in the narrow pass beyond this spot, had been suddenly + beset by about fifty Indians; all fled and escaped save one, + who, mounted on a mule, was abandoned by his companions, + overtaken, and slain. The Indians, perhaps, equalled the + traders in number, but notwithstanding their extraordinary + advantage of ground, dared not attack them when they + made a stand among their wagons; and the latter, all well + armed, were afraid to make a single charge, which would + have scattered their enemies like sheep. + + Having buried the poor fellow's body, and killed an ox for + breakfast, we left this sand hollow, which would soon have + been roasting hot, and advancing through the defile—of + which we took care to occupy the commanding ground— + proceeded to escort the traders at least one day's march + further. + + When the next morning broke clear and cloudless, the command + was confronted by one of those terrible hot winds, still + frequent on the plains. The oxen with lolling tongues + were incapable of going on; the train was halted, and the + suffering animals unyoked, but they stood motionless, + making no attempt to graze. Late that afternoon, the + caravan pushed on for about ten miles, where was the + sandy bed of a dry creek, and fortunately, not far from + the Trail, up the stream, a pool of water and an acre + or two of grass was discovered. On the surface of the + water floated thick the dead bodies of small fish, which + the intense heat of the sun that day had killed. + + Arriving at this point, it was determined to march no + further into the Mexican territory. At the first light + next day we were in motion to return to the river and + the American line, and no further adventure befell us. +</pre> + <p> + While permanently encamped at Chouteau's Island, which is situated in the + Arkansas River, the term of enlistment of four of the soldiers of Captain + Cooke's command expired, and they were discharged. In his journal he says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Contrary to all advice they determined to return to + Missouri. After having marched several hundred miles + over a prairie country, being often on high hills + commanding a vast prospect, without seeing a human being + or a sign of one, and, save the trail we followed, not + the slightest indication that the country had ever been + visited by man, it was exceedingly difficult to credit + that lurking foes were around us, and spying our motions. + It was so with these men; and being armed, they set out + on the first of August on foot for the settlements. + That same night three of the four returned. They reported + that, after walking about fifteen miles, they were + surrounded by thirty mounted Indians. A wary old soldier + of their number succeeded in extricating them before any + hostile act had been committed; but one of them, highly + elated and pleased at their forbearance, insisted on + returning among them to give them tobacco and shake hands. + In this friendly act he was shot down. The Indians + stripped him in an incredibly short time, and as quickly + dispersed to avoid a shot; and the old soldier, after + cautioning the others to reserve their fire, fired among + them, and probably with some effect. Had the others done + the same, the Indians would have rushed upon them before + they could have reloaded. They managed to make good + their retreat in safety to our camp. + + We were instructed to wait here for the return of the + caravan, which was expected early in October. + Our provisions consisted of salt and half rations of flour, + besides a reserve of fifteen days' full rations—as to the + rest, we were dependent upon hunting. When the buffalo + became scarce, or the grass bad, we marched to other + ground, thus roving up and down the river for eighty + miles. The first thing we did after camping was to dig + and construct, with flour barrels, a well in front of + each company; water was always found at the depth of + from two to four feet varying with the corresponding + height of the river, but clear and cool. Next we would + build sod fire-places; these, with network platforms of + buffalo hide, used for smoking and drying meat, formed a + tolerable additional defence, at least against mounted men. + + Hunting was a military duty, done by detail, parties of + fifteen or twenty going out with a wagon. Completely + isolated, and beyond support or even communication, + in the midst of many thousands of Indians, the utmost + vigilance was maintained. Officer of the guard every + fourth night; I was always awake and generally in motion + the whole time of duty. Night alarms were frequent; when, + as we all slept in our clothes, we were accustomed to + assemble instantly, and with scarcely a word spoken, + take our places in the grass in front of each face of + the camp, where, however wet, we sometimes lay for hours. + + While encamped a few miles below Chouteau's Island, on the + eleventh of August, an alarm was given, and we were under + arms for an hour until daylight. During the morning, + Indians were seen a mile or two off, leading their horses + through the ravines. A captain, however, with eighteen + men was sent across the river after buffalo, which we saw + half a mile distant. In his absence, a large body of + Indians came galloping down the river, as if to charge + the camp, but the cattle were secured in good time. + A company, of which I was lieutenant, was ordered to + cross the river and support the first. We waded in some + disorder through the quicksands and current, and just + as we neared a dry sandbar in the middle, a volley was + fired at us by a band of Indians, who that moment rode + to the water's edge. The balls whistled very near, + but without damage; I felt an involuntary twitch of + the neck, and wishing to return the compliment instantly, + I stooped down, and the company fired over my head, + with what execution was not perceived, as the Indians + immediately retired out of our view. This had passed + in half a minute, and we were astonished to see, a little + above, among some bushes on the same bar, the party we had + been sent to support, and we heard that they had abandoned + one of the hunters, who had been killed. We then saw, + on the bank we had just left, a formidable body of the + enemy in close order, and hoping to surprise them, + we ascended the bed of the river. In crossing the channel + we were up to the arm-pits, but when we emerged on the + bank, we found that the Indians had detected the movement, + and retreated. Casting eyes beyond the river, I saw a + number of the Indians riding on both sides of a wagon + and team which had been deserted, urging the animals + rapidly toward the hills. At this juncture the adjutant + sent an order to cross and recover the body of the slain + hunter, who was an old soldier and a favourite. He was + brought in with an arrow still transfixing his breast, + but his scalp was gone. + + On the fourteenth of October, we again marched on our + return. Soon after, we saw smokes arise over the distant + hills; evidently signals, indicating to different parties + of Indians our separation and march, but whether preparatory + to an attack upon the Mexicans or ourselves, or rather + our immense drove of animals, we could only guess. + + Our march was constantly attended by great collections + of buffalo, which seemed to have a general muster, perhaps + for migration. Sometimes a hundred or two—a fragment + from the multitude—would approach within two or three + hundred yards of the column, and threaten a charge which + would have proved disastrous to the mules and their drivers. + + Under the friendly cover of the shades of evening, on the + eighth of November, our tatterdemalion veterans marched + into Fort Leavenworth, and took quiet possession of the + miserable huts and sheds left by the Third Infantry in + the preceding May. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. A ROMANTIC TRAGEDY. + </h2> + <p> + As early as November, 1842, a rumour was current in Santa Fe, and along + the line of the Trail, that parties of Texans had left the Republic for + the purpose of attacking and robbing the caravans to the United States + which were owned wholly by Mexicans. In consequence of this, several + Americans were accused of being spies and acting in collusion with the + Texans; many were arrested and carried to Santa Fe, but nothing could be + proved against them, and the rumours of the intended purposes of the + Texans died out. + </p> + <p> + Very early in May, however, of the following year, 1843, a certain Colonel + Snively did organize a small force, comprising about two hundred men, + which he led from Northern Texas, his home, to the line of the Trail, with + the intention of attacking and robbing the Mexican caravans which were + expected to cross the plains that month and in June. + </p> + <p> + When he arrived at the Arkansas River, he was there reinforced by another + Texan colonel, named Warfield with another small command. Gregg says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + This officer, with about twenty men, had some time + previously attacked the village of Mora, on the Mexican + frontier, killing five men, and driving off a number + of horses. They were afterward followed by a party of + Mexicans, however, who stampeded and carried away, not only + their own horses, but those of the Texans. Being left + afoot, the latter burned their saddles, and walked to + Bent's Fort, where they were disbanded; whence Warfield + passed to Snively's camp, as before mentioned. + + The Texans now advanced along the Santa Fe Trail, beyond + the sand hills south of the Arkansas, when they discovered + that a party of Mexicans had passed toward the river. + They soon came upon them, and a skirmish ensuing, eighteen + Mexicans were killed, and as many wounded, five of whom + afterward died. The Texans suffered no injury, though + the Mexicans were a hundred in number. The rest were all + taken prisoners except two, who escaped and bore the news + to General Armijo, who was encamped with a large force + at Cold Spring, one hundred and forty miles beyond. +</pre> + <p> + Kit Carson figured conspicuously in this fight, or, rather, immediately + afterward. His recital differs somewhat from Gregg's account, but the + stories substantially agree. Kit said that in April, previously to the + assault upon Armijo's caravan, he had hired out as hunter to Bent's and + Colonel St. Vrain's train caravan, which was then making its annual tour + eastwardly. When he arrived at the crossing of Walnut Creek,<a + href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> + he found the encampment of Captain Philip St. George Cooke, of the United + States army, who had been detailed with his command to escort the caravans + to the New Mexican boundary. His force consisted of four troops of + dragoons. The captain informed Carson that coming on behind him from the + States was a caravan belonging to a very wealthy Mexican. + </p> + <p> + It was a richly loaded train, and in order to insure its better protection + while passing through that portion of the country infested by the + blood-thirsty Comanches and Apaches, the majordomo in charge had hired one + hundred Mexicans as a guard. The teamsters and others belonging to the + caravan had heard that a large body of Texans were lying in wait for them, + and intended to murder and plunder them in retaliation for the way Armijo + had treated some Texan prisoners he had got in his power at Santa Fe some + time before. Of course, it was the duty of the United States troops to + escort this caravan to the New Mexico line, but there their duty would + end, as they had no authority to cross the border. The Mexicans belonging + to the caravan were afraid they would be at the mercy of the Texans after + they had parted company with the soldiers, and when Kit Carson met them, + they, knowing the famous trapper and mountaineer well, asked him to take a + letter to Armijo, who was then governor of New Mexico, and resided in + Santa Fe, for which service they would give him three hundred dollars in + advance. The letter contained a statement of the fears they entertained, + and requested the general to send Mexican troops at once to meet them. + </p> + <p> + Carson, who was then not blessed with much money, eagerly accepted the + task, and immediately started on the trail for Bent's Fort, in company + with another old mountaineer and bosom friend named Owens. In a short time + they arrived at the Fort, where Owens decided not to go any further, + because they were informed by the men at Bent's that the Utes had broken + out, and were scattered along the Trail at the most dangerous points, and + he was fearful that his life would be endangered if he attempted to make + Santa Fe. + </p> + <p> + Kit, however, nothing daunted, and determined to do the duty for which he + had been rewarded so munificently, started out alone on his perilous trip. + Mr. Bent kindly furnished him with the best and fastest horse he had in + his stables, but Kit, realizing the dangers to which he would be exposed, + walked, leading his animal, ready to mount him at a moment's notice; thus + keeping him in a condition that would enable Carson to fly and make his + escape if the savages tried to capture him. His knowledge of the Indian + character, and wonderful alertness in moments of peril, served him well; + for he reached the village of the hostile Indians without their + discovering his proximity. Hiding himself in a rocky, bush-covered canyon, + he stayed there until night came on, when he continued his journey in the + darkness. + </p> + <p> + He took the trail to Taos, where he arrived in two or three days, and + presented his letter to the alcalde, to be sent on to Santa Fe by special + messenger. + </p> + <p> + He was to remain at Taos until an answer from the governor arrived, and + then return with it as rapidly as possible to the train. While at Taos, he + was informed that Armijo had already sent out a company of one hundred + soldiers to meet the caravan, and was to follow in person, with a thousand + more. + </p> + <p> + This first hundred were those attacked by Colonel Snively, as related by + Gregg, who says that two survived, who carried the news of the disaster to + Armijo at Cold Spring; but Carson told me that only one got away, by + successfully catching, during the heat of the fight, a Texan pony already + saddled, that was grazing around loose. With him he made Armijo's camp and + related to the Mexican general the details of the terribly unequal battle. + Armijo, upon receipt of the news, "turned tail," and retreated to Santa + Fe. + </p> + <p> + Before Armijo left Santa Fe with his command, he had received the letter + which Carson had brought from the caravan, and immediately sent one in + reply for Carson to carry back, thinking that the old mountaineer might + reach the wagons before he did. Carson, with his usual promptness, started + on the Trail for the caravan, and came up with it while it was escorted by + the dragoons, thus saving it from the fate that the Texans intended for + it, as they dared not attempt any interference in the presence of the + United States troops. + </p> + <p> + The rumour current in Santa Fe in relation to a probable raid of parties + of Texans along the line of the Trail, for the purpose of attacking and + robbing the caravans of the wealthy Mexican traders, was received with so + little credence by the prominent citizens of the country, that several + native trains left for the Missouri River without their proprietors having + the slightest apprehension that they would not reach their destination, + and make the return trip in safety. + </p> + <p> + Among those who had no fear of marauders was Don Antonio Jose Chavez, who, + in February, 1843, left Santa Fe for Independence with an outfit + consisting of a number of wagons, his private coach, several servants and + other retainers. Don Antonio was a very wealthy Mexican engaged in a + general mercantile business on a large scale in Albuquerque, who made all + his purchases of goods in St. Louis, which was then the depot of supplies + for the whole mountain region. He necessarily carried with him on these + journeys a large amount of money, in silver, which was the legal currency + of the country, and made but one trip yearly to replenish the stock of + goods required in his extensive trade in all parts of Mexico. + </p> + <p> + Upon his arrival at Westport Landing, as Kansas City was then called, he + would take the steamboat for St. Louis, leaving his coach, wagons, + servants, and other appointments of his caravan behind him in the village + of Westport, a few miles from the Landing. + </p> + <p> + Westport was at that time, like all steamboat towns in the era of water + navigation, the harbor of as great a lot of ruffians as ever escaped the + gallows. There was especially a noted gang of land pirates, the members of + which had long indulged in speculations regarding the probable wealth of + the Mexican Don, and how much coin he generally carried with him. They + knew that it must be considerable from the quantity of goods that always + came by boat with him from St. Louis. + </p> + <p> + At last a devilish plot was arranged to get hold of the rich trader's + money. Nine men were concerned in the robbery, nearly all of whom were + residents of the vicinity of Westport; their leader was one John McDaniel, + recently from Texas, from which government he claimed to hold a captain's + commission, and one of their number was a doctor. It was evidently the + intention of this band to join Warfield's party on the Arkansas, and + engage in a general robbery of the freight caravans of the Santa Fe Trail + belonging to the Mexicans; but they had determined that Chavez should be + their first victim, and in order to learn when he intended to leave Santa + Fe on his next trip east, they sent their spies out on the great highway. + </p> + <p> + They did not dare attempt their contemplated robbery, and murder if + necessary, in the State of Missouri, for there were too many citizens of + the border who would never have permitted such a thing to go unpunished; + so they knew that their only chance was to effect it in the Indian country + of Kansas, where there was little or no law. + </p> + <p> + Cow Creek, which debouches into the Arkansas at Hutchinson, where the + Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad crosses the historic little stream,<a + href="#linknote-23" name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a> + was, like Big and Little Coon creeks, a most dangerous point in the + transcontinental passage of freight caravans and overland coaches, in the + days of the commerce of the prairies. It was on this purling little + prairie brook that McDaniel's band lay in wait for the arrival of the + ill-fated Don Antonio, whose imposing equipage came along, intending to + encamp on the bank, one of the usual stopping-places on the route. + </p> + <p> + The Don was taken a few miles south of the Trail, and his baggage rifled. + All of his party were immediately murdered, but the wealthy owner of the + caravan was spared for a few moments in order to make a confession of + where his money was concealed, after which he was shot down in cold blood, + and his body thrown into a ravine. + </p> + <p> + It appears, however, that the ruffians had not completed their bloody work + so effectually as they thought; for one of the Mexican's teamsters + escaped, and, making his way to Leavenworth, reported the crime, and was + soon on his way back to the Trail, guiding a detachment of United States + troops in pursuit of the murderers. + </p> + <p> + John Hobbs, scout, trapper, and veteran plainsman, happened to be hunting + buffalo on Pawnee Fork, on the ground where Larned is now situated, with a + party from Bent's Fort. They were just on the point of crossing the Trail + at the mouth of the Pawnee when the soldiers from Fort Leavenworth came + along, and from them Hobbs and his companions first learned of the murder + of Chavez on Cow Creek. As the men who were out hunting were all familiar + with every foot of the region they were then in, the commanding officer of + the troops induced them to accompany him in his search for the murderers. + </p> + <p> + Hobbs and his men cheerfully accepted the invitation, and in about four + days met the band of cut-throats on the broad Trail, they little dreaming + that the government had taken a hand in the matter. The band tried to + escape by flight, but Hobbs shot the doctor's horse from under him, and a + soldier killed another member of the band, when the remainder surrendered. + </p> + <p> + The money, about twelve or fifteen thousand dollars,<a href="#linknote-24" + name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> was all + recovered, and the murderers taken to St. Louis, where some were hung and + some imprisoned, the doctor escaping the death penalty by turning state's + evidence. His sentence was incarceration in the penitentiary, from which + he was pardoned after remaining there two years. Hobbs met the doctor some + years after in San Francisco. He was then leading an honest life, + publishing a newspaper, and begged his captor not to expose him. + </p> + <p> + The money taken from the robbers was placed in charge of Colonel Owens, a + friend of the Chavez family and a leading Santa Fe trader. He continued on + to the river, purchased a stock of goods, and sent back the caravan to + Santa Fe in charge of Doctor Conley of Boonville, Missouri. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at his destination, the widow of the deceased Chavez employed the + good doctor to sell the goods and take the sole supervision of her immense + business interests, and there is a touch of romance attached to the + terrible Kansas tragedy, which lies in the fact that the doctor in about + two years married the rich widow, and lived very happily for about a + decade, dying then on one of the large estates in New Mexico, which he had + acquired by his fortunate union with the amiable Mexican lady. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. MEXICO DECLARES WAR. + </h2> + <p> + Mexico declared war against the United States in April, 1846. In the + following May, Congress passed an act authorizing the President to call + into the field fifty thousand volunteers, designed to operate against + Mexico at three distinct points, and consisting of the Southern Wing, or + the Army of Occupation, the Army of the Centre, and the Army of the West, + the latter to direct its march upon the city of Santa Fe. The original + plan was, however, somewhat changed, and General Kearney, who commanded + the Army of the West, divided his forces into three separate commands. The + first he led in person to the Pacific coast. One thousand volunteers, + under command of Colonel A. W. Doniphan, were to make a descent upon the + State of Chihuahua, while the remainder and greater part of the forces, + under Colonel Sterling Price, were to garrison Santa Fe after its capture. + </p> + <p> + There is a pretty fiction told of the breaking out of the war between + Mexico and the United States. Early in the spring of 1846, before it was + known or even conjectured that a state of war would be declared to exist + between this government and Mexico, a caravan of twenty-nine traders, on + their way from Independence to Santa Fe, beheld, just after a storm and a + little before sunset, a perfectly distinct image of the Bird of Liberty, + the American eagle, on the disc of the sun. When they saw it they + simultaneously and almost involuntarily exclaimed that in less than twelve + months the Eagle of Liberty would spread his broad plumes over the plains + of the West, and that the flag of our country would wave over the cities + of New Mexico and Chihuahua. The student of the classics will remember + that just before the assassination of Julius Caesar, both Brutus and + Cassius, while in their places in the Roman Senate, saw chariots of fire + in the sky. One story is as true, probably, as the other, though separated + by centuries of time. + </p> + <p> + The Army of the West, under General Stephen W. Kearney, consisted of two + batteries of artillery, commanded by Major Clark; three squadrons of the + First United States Dragoons, commanded by Major Sumner; the First + Regiment of Missouri Cavalry, commanded by Colonel Doniphan, and two + companies of infantry, commanded by Captain Aubrey. This force marched in + detached columns from Fort Leavenworth, and on the 1st of August, 1846, + concentrated in camp on the Santa Fe Trail, nine miles below Bent's Fort. + </p> + <p> + Accompanying the expedition was a party of the United States topographical + engineers, under command of Lieutenant W. H. Emory.<a href="#linknote-25" + name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a> In writing + of this expedition, so far as its march relates to the Old Santa Fe Trail, + I shall quote freely from Emory's report and Doniphan's historian.<a + href="#linknote-26" name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The practicability of marching a large army over the waste, uncultivated, + uninhabited prairie regions of the West was universally regarded as + problematical, but the expedition proved completely successful. Provisions + were conveyed in wagons, and beef-cattle driven along for the use of the + men. These animals subsisted entirely by grazing. To secure them from + straying off at night, they were driven into corrals formed of the wagons, + or tethered to an iron picket-pin driven into the ground about fifteen + inches. At the outset of the expedition many laughable scenes took place. + Our horses were generally wild, fiery, and unused to military trappings + and equipments. Amidst the fluttering of banners, the sounding of bugles, + the rattling of artillery, the clattering of sabres and also of cooking + utensils, some of them took fright and scampered pell-mell over the wide + prairie. Rider, arms and accoutrements, saddles, saddle-bags, tin cups, + and coffee-pots, were frequently left far behind in the chase. No very + serious or fatal accident, however, occurred from this cause, and all was + right as soon as the affrighted animals were recovered. + </p> + <p> + The Army of the West was, perhaps, composed of as fine material as any + other body of troops then in the field. The volunteer corps consisted + almost entirely of young men of the country. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of July, a separate detachment of the troops arrived at the + Little Arkansas, where the Santa Fe Trail crosses that stream—now in + McPherson County, Kansas. The mosquitoes, gnats, and black flies swarmed + in that locality and nearly drove the men and animals frantic. While + resting there, a courier came from the commands of General Kearney and + Colonel Doniphan, stating that their men were in a starving condition, and + asking for such provisions as could be spared. Lieutenant-Colonel Ruff of + Doniphan's regiment, in command of the troops now camped on the Little + Arkansas, was almost destitute himself. He had sent couriers forward to + Pawnee Fork to stop a train of provisions at that point and have it wait + there until he came up with his force, and he now directed the courier + from Kearney to proceed to the same place and halt as many wagons loaded + with supplies, as would suffice to furnish the three detachments with + rations. One of the couriers, in attempting to ford the fork of the + Pawnee, which was bank-full, was drowned. His body was found and given a + military funeral; he was the first man lost on the expedition after it had + reached the great plains, one having been drowned in the Missouri, at Fort + Leavenworth, before the troops left. + </p> + <p> + The author of <i>Doniphan's Expedition</i> says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + In approaching the Arkansas, a landscape of the most + imposing and picturesque nature makes its appearance. + While the green, glossy undulations of the prairie to + the right seem to spread out in infinite succession, + like waves subsiding after a storm, and covered with + herds of gambolling buffalo, on the left, towering to + the height of seventy-five to a hundred feet, rise the + sun-gilt summits of the sand hills, along the base of + which winds the broad, majestic river, bespeckled with + verdant islets, thickly beset with cottonwood timber, + the sand hills resembling heaps of driven snow. +</pre> + <p> + I refer to this statement to show how wonderfully the settlement of the + region has changed the physical aspect of that portion bordering the + Arkansas River. Now those sand hills are covered with verdure, and this + metamorphosis has taken place within the last thirty years; for the author + of this work well remembers how the great sand dunes used to shine in the + sunlight, when he first saw them a third of a century ago. In coming from + Fort Leavenworth up the Smoky Hill route to the Santa Fe Trail, where the + former joined the latter at Pawnee Rock, the contour of the Arkansas could + be easily traced by the white sand hills referred to, long before it was + reached. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th of July the combined forces formed a junction at Pawnee Fork, + now within the city limits of Larned, Kansas. The river was impassable, + but General Kearney, with the characteristic energy of his family, + determined not to be delayed, and to that end caused great trees to be cut + down and their trunks thrown across the stream, over which the army + passed, carrying in their arms the sick, the baggage, tents, and other + paraphernalia; the animals being forced to swim. The empty bodies of the + wagons, fastened to their running gear, were floated across by means of + ropes, and hauled up the slippery bank by the troops. This required two + whole days; and on the morning of the 17th, not an accident having + occurred, the entire column was en route again, the infantry, as is + declared in the official reports, keeping pace with the cavalry right + along. Their feet, however, became terribly blistered, and, like the + Continentals at Valley Forge, their tracks were marked with blood. + </p> + <p> + In a day or two after the command had left Pawnee Fork, while camping in a + beautiful spot on the bank of the Arkansas, an officer, Major Howard, who + had been sent forward to Santa Fe some time previously by the general to + learn something of the feeling of the people in relation to submitting to + the government of the United States, returned and reported + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + that the common people, or plebeians, were inclined to + favour the conditions of peace proposed by General Kearney; + viz. that if they would lay down their arms and take the + oath of allegiance to the government of the United States, + they should, to all intents and purposes, become citizens + of the same republic, receiving the protection and enjoying + the liberties guaranteed to other American citizens; but + that the patricians who held the offices and ruled the + country were hostile, and were making warlike preparations. + He added, further, that two thousand three hundred men + were already armed for the defence of the capital, and + that others were assembling at Taos. +This intelligence created quite a sensation in camp, and it was +believed, and earnestly hoped, that the entrance of the troops into +Santa Fe would be desperately opposed; such is the pugnacious character +of the average American the moment he dons the uniform of a soldier. +</pre> + <p> + The army arrived at the Cimarron crossing of the Arkansas on the 20th, and + during the march of nearly thirty miles from their last camp, a herd of + about four hundred buffalo suddenly emerged from the Arkansas, and broke + through the long column. In an instant the troops charged upon the + surprised animals with guns, pistols, and even drawn sabres, and many of + the huge beasts were slaughtered as they went dashing and thundering among + the excited troopers and infantrymen. + </p> + <p> + On the 29th an express from Bent's Fort brought news to General Kearney + from Santa Fe that Governor Armijo had called the chief men together to + deliberate on the best means of defending the city; that hostile + preparations were rapidly going on in all parts of New Mexico; and that + the American advance would be vigorously opposed. Some Mexican prisoners + were taken near Bent's Fort, with blank letters on their persons addressed + to the general; it was supposed this piece of ingenuity was resorted to to + deceive the American residents at the fort. These men were thought to be + spies sent out from Santa Fe to get an idea of the strength of the army; + so they were shown everything in and around camp, and then allowed to + depart in peace for Santa Fe, to report what they had seen. + </p> + <p> + On the same date, the Army of the West crossed the Arkansas and camped on + Mexican soil about eight miles below Bent's Fort, and now the utmost + vigilance was exercised; for the troops had not only to keep a sharp + lookout for the Mexicans, but for the wily Comanches, in whose country + their camp was located. Strong picket and camp guards were posted, and the + animals turned loose to graze, guarded by a large force. Notwithstanding + the care taken to confine them within certain limits, a pack of wolves + rushed through the herd, and in an instant it was stampeded, and there + ensued a scene of the wildest confusion. More than a thousand horses were + dashing madly over the prairie, their rage and fright increased at every + jump by the lariats and picket-pins which they had pulled up, and which + lashed them like so many whips. After desperate exertions by the troops, + the majority were recovered from thirty to fifty miles distant; nearly a + hundred, however, were absolutely lost and never seen again. + </p> + <p> + At this camp the troops were visited by the war chief of the Arapahoes, + who manifested great surprise at the big guns, and declared that the + Mexicans would not stand a moment before such terrible instruments of + death, but would escape to the mountains with the utmost despatch. + </p> + <p> + On the 1st of August a new camp near Bent's Fort was established, from + whence twenty men under Lieutenant de Courcy, with orders to proceed + through the mountains to the valley of Taos, to learn something of the + disposition and intentions of the people, and to rejoin General Kearney on + the road to Santa Fe. Lieutenant de Courcy, in his official itinerary, + relates the following anecdote: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We took three pack-mules laden with provisions, and as + we did not expect to be long absent, the men took no extra + clothing. Three days after we left the column our mules + fell down, and neither gentle means nor the points of our + sabres had the least effect in inducing them to rise. + Their term of service with Uncle Sam was out. "What's to + be done?" said the sergeant. "Dismount!" said I. + "Off with your shirts and drawers, men! tie up the sleeves + and legs, and each man bag one-twentieth part of the flour!" + Having done this, the bacon was distributed to the men also, + and tied to the cruppers of their saddles. Thus loaded, + we pushed on, without the slightest fear of our provision + train being cut off. + + The march upon Santa Fe was resumed on the 2d of August. + As we passed Bent's Fort the American flag was raised, + in compliment to our troops, and, like our own, streamed + most animatingly in the gale that swept from the desert, + while the tops of the houses were crowded with Mexican girls + and Indian squaws, intently beholding the American army. +</pre> + <p> + On the 15th of the month, the army neared Las Vegas; when two spies who + had been sent on in advance to see how matters stood returned and reported + that two thousand Mexicans were camped at the pass a few miles beyond the + village, where they intended to offer battle. + </p> + <p> + Upon receipt of this news, the general immediately formed a line of + battle. The United States dragoons with the St. Louis mounted volunteers + were stationed in front, Major Clark with the battalion of volunteer light + artillery in the centre, and Colonel Doniphan's regiment in the rear. The + companies of volunteer infantry were deployed on each side of the line of + march as flankers. The supply trains were next in order, with Captain + Walton's mounted company as rear guard. There was also a strong advance + guard. The cartridges were hastily distributed; the cannon swabbed and + rigged; the port-fires burning, and every rifle loaded. + </p> + <p> + In passing through the streets of the curious-looking village of Las + Vegas, the army was halted, and from the roof of a large house General + Kearney administered to the chief officers of the place the oath of + allegiance to the United States, using the sacred cross instead of the + Bible. This act completed, on marched the exultant troops toward the + canyon where it had been promised them that they should meet the enemy. + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 16th, while encamped on the Pecos River, near the + village of San Jose, the pickets captured a son of the Mexican General + Salezar, who was acting the rôle of a spy, and two other soldiers of the + Mexican army. Salezar was kept a close prisoner; but the two privates were + by order of General Kearney escorted through the camp and shown the + cannon, after which they were allowed to depart, so that they might tell + what they had seen. It was learned afterward that they represented the + American army as composed of five thousand troops, and possessing so many + cannons that they were not able to count them. + </p> + <p> + When Armijo was certain that the Army of the West was really approaching + Santa Fe, he assembled seven thousand troops, part of them well armed, and + the remainder indifferently so. The Mexican general had written a note to + General Kearney the day before the capture of the spies, saying that he + would meet him on the following day. + </p> + <p> + General Kearney, at this, hastened on, arriving at the mouth of the Apache + canyon at noon, with his whole force ready and anxious to try the mettle + of the Mexicans in battle. Emory in his <i>Reconnoissance</i> says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The sun shone with dazzling brightness; the guidons and + colours of each squadron, regiment, and battalion were + for the first time unfurled. The drooping horses seemed + to take courage from the gay array. The trumpeters + sounded "to horse" with spirit, and the hills multiplied + and re-echoed the call. All wore the aspect of a gala day. + About the middle of the day's march the two Pueblo Indians, + previously sent to sound the chief men of that formidable + tribe, were seen in the distance, at full speed, with arms + and legs both thumping the sides of their mules at every + stride. Something was now surely in the wind. The smaller + and foremost of the two dashed up to the general, his face + radiant with joy, and exclaimed: + + "They are in the canyon, my brave; pluck up your courage + and push them out." As soon as his extravagant delight at + the prospect of a fight, and the pleasure of communicating + the news, had subsided, he gave a pretty accurate idea + of Armijo's force and position. + + Shortly afterwards a rumour reached the camp that the + two thousand Mexicans assembled in the canyon to oppose us, + have quarrelled among themselves; and that Armijo, taking + advantage of the dissensions, has fled with his dragoons + and artillery to the south. It is well known that he has + been averse to a battle, but some of his people threatened + his life if he refused to fight. He had been, for some + days, more in fear of his own people than of the American + army, having seen what they are blind to—the hopelessness + of resistance. + + As we approached the ancient town of Pecos, a large fat + fellow, mounted on a mule, came toward us at full speed, + and, extending his hand to the general, congratulated him + on the arrival of himself and army. He said with a roar + of laughter, "Armijo and his troops have gone to h—-ll, + and the canyon is all clear." +</pre> + <p> + On reaching the canyon, it was found to be true that the Mexican troops + had dispersed and fled to the mountains, just as the old Arapahoe chief + had said they would. There, however, they commenced to fortify, by + chopping away the timber so that their artillery could play to better + advantage upon the American lines, and by throwing up temporary + breastworks. It was ascertained afterward, on undoubted authority, that + Armijo had an army of nearly seven thousand Mexicans, with six pieces of + artillery, and the advantage of ground, yet he allowed General Kearney, + with a force of less than two thousand, to march through the almost + impregnable gorge, and on to the capital of the Province, without any + attempt to oppose him. + </p> + <p> + Thus was New Mexico conquered with but little loss relatively. For the + further details of the movements of the Army of the West, the reader is + referred to general history, as this book, necessarily, treats only of + that portion of its march and the incidents connected with it while + travelling the Santa Fe Trail. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. THE VALLEY OF TAOS. + </h2> + <p> + The principal settlement in New Mexico, immediately after it was + reconquered from the Indians by the Spaniards, was, of course, Santa Fe, + and ranking second to it, that of the beautiful Valle de Taos, which + derived its name from the Taosa Indians, a few of whose direct descendants + are still occupying a portion of the region. As the pioneers in the trade + with Santa Fe made their first journeys to the capital of the Province by + the circuitous route of the Taos valley, and the initial consignments of + goods from the Missouri were disposed of in the little villages scattered + along the road, the story of the Trail would be deficient in its integrity + were the thrilling historical facts connected with the romantic region + omitted. + </p> + <p> + The reader will find on all maps, from the earliest published to the + latest issued by the local railroads, a town with the name of Taos, which + never had an existence. Fernandez de Taos is the chief city, which has + been known so long by the title of the valley that perhaps the misnomer is + excusable after many years' use. + </p> + <p> + Fernandez, or Taos as it is called, was once famous for its distilleries + of whiskey, made out of the native wheat, a raw, fiery spirit, always + known in the days of the Santa Fe trade as "Taos lightning," which was the + most profitable article of barter with the Indians, who exchanged their + buffalo robes and other valuable furs for a supply of it, at a tremendous + sacrifice. + </p> + <p> + According to the statement of Gregg, the first white settler of the + fertile and picturesque valley was a Spaniard named Pando, who established + himself there about 1745. This primitive pioneer of the northern part of + the Province was constantly exposed to the raids of the powerful + Comanches, but succeeded in creating a temporary friendship with the tribe + by promising his daughter, then a young and beautiful infant, to the chief + in marriage when she arrived at a suitable age. At the time for the + ratification of her father's covenant with the Indians, however, the + maiden stubbornly refused to fulfil her part. The savages, enraged at the + broken faith of the Spaniard, immediately swept down upon the little + settlement and murdered everybody there except the betrothed girl, whom + they carried off into captivity. She was forced to live with the chief as + his wife, but he soon became tired of her and traded her for another woman + with the Pawnees, who, in turn, sold her to a Frenchman, a resident of St. + Louis. It is said that some of the most respectable families of that city + are descended from her, and fifty years ago there were many people living + who remembered the old lady, and her pathetic story of trials and + sufferings when with the Indians. + </p> + <p> + The most tragic event in the history of the valley was the massacre of the + provisional governor of the Territory of New Mexico, with a number of + other Americans, shortly after its occupation by the United States. + </p> + <p> + Upon General Kearney's taking possession of Santa Fe, acting under the + authority of the President, he established a civil government and put it + into operation. Charles Bent was appointed governor, and the other offices + filled by Americans and Mexicans who were rigidly loyal to the political + change. At this time the command of the troops devolved upon Colonel + Sterling Price, Colonel Doniphan, who ranked him, having departed from + Santa Fe on an expedition against the Navajoes. Notwithstanding the + apparent submission of the natives of New Mexico, there were many + malcontents among them and the Pueblo Indians, and early in December, some + of the leaders, dissatisfied with the change in the order of things, held + secret meetings and formulated plots to overthrow the existing government. + </p> + <p> + Midnight of the 24th of December was the time appointed for the + commencement of their revolutionary work, which was to be simultaneous all + over the country. The profoundest secrecy was to be preserved, and the + most influential men, whose ambition induced them to seek preferment, were + alone to be made acquainted with the plot. No woman was to be privy to it, + lest it should be divulged. The sound of the church bell was to be the + signal, and at midnight all were to enter the Plaza at the same moment, + seize the pieces of artillery, and point them into the streets. + </p> + <p> + The time chosen for the assault was Christmas-eve, when the soldiers and + garrison would be indulging in wine and feasting, and scattered about + through the city at the fandangoes, not having their arms in their hands. + All the Americans, without distinction, throughout the State, and such New + Mexicans as had favoured the American government and accepted office by + appointment of General Kearney, were to be massacred or driven from the + country, and the conspirators were to seize upon and occupy the + government. + </p> + <p> + The conspiracy was detected in the following manner: a mulatto girl, + residing in Santa Fe, had married one of the conspirators, and had by + degrees obtained a knowledge of their movements and secret meetings. To + prevent the effusion of blood, which would inevitably be the result of a + revolution, she communicated to Colonel Price all the facts of which she + was in possession, and warned him to use the utmost vigilance. The + rebellion was immediately suppressed, but the restless and unsatisfied + ambition of the leaders of the conspiracy did not long permit them to + remain inactive. A second and still more dangerous conspiracy was formed. + The most powerful and influential men in the State favoured the design, + and even the officers of State and the priests gave their aid and counsel. + The people everywhere, in the towns, villages, and settlements, were + exhorted to arm and equip themselves; to strike for their faith, their + religion, and their altars; and drive the "heretics," the "unjust invaders + of the country," from their soil, and with fire and sword pursue them to + annihilation. On the 18th of January this rebellion broke out in every + part of the State simultaneously. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of January, Governor Bent, believing the conspiracy completely + crushed, with an escort of five persons—among whom were the sheriff + and circuit attorney—had left Santa Fe to visit his family, who + resided at Fernandez. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th, he was early roused from sleep by the populace, who, with the + aid of the Pueblos of Taos, were collected in front of his dwelling + striving to gain admittance. While they were effecting an entrance, he, + with an axe, cut through an adobe wall into another house; and the Mexican + wife of the occupant, a clever though shiftless Canadian, hearing him, + with all her strength rendered him assistance. He retreated to a room, + but, seeing no way of escaping from the infuriated assailants, who fired + upon him from a window, he spoke to his weeping wife and trembling + children, and, taking paper from his pocket, endeavoured to write; but + fast losing strength, he commended them to God and his brothers and fell, + pierced by a ball from a Pueblo. Then rushing in and tearing off his + gray-haired scalp, the Indians bore it away in triumph. + </p> + <p> + The circuit attorney, T. W. Leal, was scalped alive and dragged through + the streets, his relentless persecutors pricking him with lances. After + hours of suffering, they threw him aside in the inclement weather, he + imploring them earnestly to kill him to end his misery. A compassionate + Mexican at last closed the tragic scene by shooting him. Stephen Lee, + brother to the general, was killed on his own housetop. Narcisse Beaubien, + son of the presiding judge of the district, hid in an outhouse with his + Indian slave, at the commencement of the massacre, under a straw-covered + trough. The insurgents on the search, thinking that they had escaped, were + leaving, but a woman servant of the family, going to the housetop, called + to them, "Kill the young ones, and they will never be men to trouble us." + They swarmed back and, by cruelly putting to death and scalping him and + his slave, added two more to the list of unfortunate victims. + </p> + <p> + The Pueblos and Mexicans, after their cruelties at Fernandez de Taos, + attacked and destroyed Turley's Ranch on the Arroyo Hondo<a + href="#linknote-27" name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a> + twelve miles from Fernandez, or Taos. Arroyo Hondo runs along the base of + a ridge of a mountain of moderate elevation, which divides the valley of + Taos from that of the Rio Colorado, or Red River, both flowing into the + Del Norte. The trail from one place to the other passes over the mountain, + which is covered with pine, cedar, and a species of dwarf oak; and + numerous little streams run through the many canyons. + </p> + <p> + On the bank of one of the creeks was a mill and distillery belonging to an + American named Turley, who did a thriving business. He possessed herds of + goats, and hogs innumerable; his barns were filled with grain, his mill + with flour, and his cellars with whiskey. He had a Mexican wife and + several children, and he bore the reputation of being one of the most + generous and kind-hearted of men. In times of scarcity, no one ever sought + his aid to be turned away empty-handed; his granaries were always open to + the hungry, and his purse to the poor. + </p> + <p> + When on their road to Turley's, the Pueblos murdered two men, named + Harwood and Markhead. Markhead was one of the most successful trappers and + daring men among the old mountaineers. They were on their way to Taos with + their pack-animals laden with furs, when the savages, meeting them, after + stripping them of their goods, and securing their arms by treachery, made + them mount their mules under pretence of conducting them to Taos, where + they were to be given up to the leaders of the insurrection. They had + hardly proceeded a mile when a Mexican rode up behind Harwood and + discharged his gun into his back; he called out to Markhead that he was + murdered, and fell to the ground dead. + </p> + <p> + Markhead, seeing that his own fate was sealed, made no struggle, and was + likewise shot in the back with several bullets. Both men were then + stripped naked, scalped, and horribly mutilated; their bodies thrown into + the brush to be devoured by the wolves. + </p> + <p> + These trappers were remarkable men; Markhead, particularly, was celebrated + in the mountains for his courage, reckless daring, and many almost + miraculous escapes when in the very hands of the Indians. When some years + previously he had accompanied Sir William Drummond Stewart on one of his + expeditions across the Rockies, it happened that a half-breed Indian + employed by Sir William absconded one night with some animals, which + circumstance annoyed the nobleman so much, as it disturbed all his plans, + that he hastily offered, never dreaming that he would be taken up, to give + five hundred dollars for the scalp of the thief. The very next evening + Markhead rode into camp with the hair of the luckless horse-thief dangling + at the muzzle of his rifle. + </p> + <p> + The wild crowd of rebels rode on to Turley's mill. Turley had been warned + of the impending uprising, but had treated the report with indifference, + until one morning a man in his employ, who had been despatched to Santa Fe + with several mule-loads of whiskey a few days before, made his appearance + at the gate on horseback, and hastily informing the inmates of the mill + that the New Mexicans had risen and massacred Governor Bent and other + Americans, galloped off. Even then Turley felt assured that he would not + be molested; but at the solicitation of his men, he agreed to close the + gate of the yard around which were the buildings of the mill and + distillery, and make preparations for defence. + </p> + <p> + A few hours afterward a large crowd of Mexicans and Pueblo Indians made + their appearance, all armed with guns and bows and arrows, and, advancing + with a white flag, summoned Turley to surrender his house and the + Americans in it, guaranteeing that his own life should be saved, but that + every other American in the valley must be destroyed; that the governor + and all the Americans at Fernandez had been killed, and that not one was + to be left alive in all New Mexico. + </p> + <p> + To this summons Turley answered that he would never surrender his house + nor his men, and that if they wanted it or them, they must take them. + </p> + <p> + The enemy then drew off, and, after a short consultation, commenced the + attack. The first day they numbered about five hundred, but were hourly + reinforced by the arrival of parties of Indians from the more distant + Pueblos, and New Mexicans from Fernandez, La Canada, and other places. + </p> + <p> + The building lay at the foot of a gradual slope in the sierra, which was + covered with cedar bushes. In front ran the stream of the Arroyo Hondo, + about twenty yards from one side of the square, and the other side was + broken ground which rose abruptly and formed the bank of the ravine. In + the rear and behind the still-house was some garden ground enclosed by a + small fence, into which a small wicket-gate opened from the corral. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the attack was determined upon, the assailants scattered and + concealed themselves under cover of the rocks and bushes which surrounded + the house. From these they kept up an incessant fire upon every exposed + portion of the building where they saw preparations for defence. + </p> + <p> + The Americans, on their part, were not idle; not a man but was an old + mountaineer, and each had his trusty rifle, with a good store of + ammunition. Whenever one of the besiegers exposed a hand's-breadth of his + person, a ball from an unerring barrel whistled. The windows had been + blockaded, loopholes having been left, and through these a lively fire was + maintained. Already several of the enemy had bitten the dust, and parties + were seen bearing off the wounded up the banks of the Canada. Darkness + came on, and during the night a continual fire was kept up on the mill, + whilst its defenders, reserving their ammunition, kept their posts with + stern and silent determination. The night was spent in casting balls, + cutting patches, and completing the defences of the building. In the + morning the fight was renewed, and it was found that the Mexicans had + effected a lodgment in a part of the stables, which were separated from + the other portions of the building by an open space of a few feet. The + assailants, during the night, had sought to break down the wall, and thus + enter the main building, but the strength of the adobe and logs of which + it was composed resisted effectually all their attempts. + </p> + <p> + Those in the stable seemed anxious to regain the outside, for their + position was unavailable as a means of annoyance to the besieged, and + several had darted across the narrow space which divided it from the other + part of the building, which slightly projected, and behind which they were + out of the line of fire. As soon, however, as the attention of the + defenders was called to this point, the first man who attempted to cross, + who happened to be a Pueblo chief, was dropped on the instant, and fell + dead in the centre of the intervening space. It appeared to be an object + to recover the body, for an Indian immediately dashed out to the fallen + chief, and attempted to drag him within the shelter of the wall. The rifle + which covered the spot again poured forth its deadly contents, and the + Indian, springing into the air, fell over the body of his chief. Another + and another met with a similar fate, and at last three rushed to the spot, + and, seizing the body by the legs and head, had already lifted it from the + ground, when three puffs of smoke blew from the barricaded windows, + followed by the sharp cracks of as many rifles, and the three daring + Indians were added to the pile of corpses which now covered the body of + the dead chief. + </p> + <p> + As yet the besieged had met with no casualties; but after the fall of the + seven Indians, the whole body of the assailants, with a shout of rage, + poured in a rattling volley, and two of the defenders fell mortally + wounded. One, shot through the loins, suffered great agony, and was + removed to the still-house, where he was laid on a large pile of grain, as + being the softest bed that could be found. + </p> + <p> + In the middle of the day the attack was renewed more fiercely than before. + The little garrison bravely stood to the defence of the mill, never + throwing away a shot, but firing coolly, and only when a fair mark was + presented to their unerring aim. Their ammunition, however, was fast + failing, and to add to the danger of their situation, the enemy set fire + to the mill, which blazed fiercely, and threatened destruction to the + whole building. Twice they succeeded in overcoming the flames, and, while + they were thus occupied, the Mexicans and Indians charged into the corral, + which was full of hogs and sheep, and vented their cowardly rage upon the + animals, spearing and shooting all that came in their way. No sooner were + the flames extinguished in one place than they broke out more fiercely in + another; and as a successful defence was perfectly hopeless, and the + numbers of the assailants increased every moment, a council of war was + held by the survivors of the little garrison, when it was determined, as + soon as night approached, that every one should attempt to escape as best + he could. + </p> + <p> + Just at dusk a man named John Albert and another ran to the wicket-gate + which opened into a kind of enclosed space, in which were a number of + armed Mexicans. They both rushed out at the same moment, discharging their + rifles full in the face of the crowd. Albert, in the confusion, threw + himself under the fence, whence he saw his companion shot down + immediately, and heard his cries for mercy as the cowards pierced him with + knives and lances. He lay without motion under the fence, and as soon as + it was quite dark he crept over the logs and ran up the mountain, + travelled by day and night, and, scarcely stopping or resting, reached the + Greenhorn, almost dead with hunger and fatigue. Turley himself succeeded + in escaping from the mill and in reaching the mountain unseen. Here he met + a Mexican mounted on a horse, who had been a most intimate friend of his + for many years. To this man Turley offered his watch for the use of the + horse, which was ten times more than it was worth, but was refused. The + inhuman wretch, however, affected pity and consideration for the fugitive, + and advised him to go to a certain place, where he would bring or send him + assistance; but on reaching the mill, which was a mass of fire, he + immediately informed the Mexicans of Turley's place of concealment, + whither a large party instantly proceeded and shot him to death. + </p> + <p> + Two others escaped and reached Santa Fe in safety. The mill and Turley's + house were sacked and gutted, and all his hard-earned savings, which were + concealed in gold about the house, were discovered, and, of course, seized + upon by the victorious Mexicans. + </p> + <p> + The following account is taken from Governor Prince's chapter on the fight + at Taos, in his excellent and authentic <i>History of New Mexico</i>:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The startling news of the assassination of the governor was + swiftly carried to Santa Fe, and reached Colonel Price the + next day. Simultaneously, letters were discovered calling + on the people of the Rio Abajo to secure Albuquerque and + march northward to aid the other insurgents; and news + speedily followed that a united Mexican and Pueblo force of + large magnitude was marching down the Rio Grande valley + toward the capital, flushed with the success of the revolt + at Taos. Very few troops were in Santa Fe; in fact, the + number remaining in the whole territory was very small, + and these were scattered at Albuquerque, Las Vegas, and + other distant points. At the first-named town were Major + Edmonson and Captain Burgwin; the former in command of the + town, and the latter with a company of the First Dragoons. + + Colonel Price lost no time in taking such measures as his + limited resources permitted. Edmonson was directed to come + immediately to Santa Fe to take command of the capital; and + Burgwin to follow Price as fast as possible to the scene + of hostilities. The colonel himself collected the few + troops at Santa Fe, which were all on foot, but fortunately + included the little battalion which under Captain Aubrey + had made such extraordinary marches on the journey across + the plains as to almost outwalk the cavalry. With these + was a volunteer company formed of nearly all of the American + inhabitants of the city, under the command of Colonel Ceran + St. Vrain, who happened to be in Santa Fe, together with + Judge Beaubien, at the time of the rising at Taos. + With this little force, amounting in all to three hundred + and ten men, Colonel Price started to march to Taos, or at + all events to meet the army which was coming toward the + capital from the north and which grew as it marched by + constant accessions from the surrounding country. + The city of Santa Fe was left in charge of a garrison under + Lieutenant-Colonel Willock. While the force was small + and the volunteers without experience in regular warfare, + yet all were nerved to desperation by the belief, since + the Taos murders, that the only alternative was victory + or annihilation. + + The expedition set out on January 23d, and the next day + the Mexican army, under command of General Montoya as + commander-in-chief, aided by Generals Tafoya and Chavez, + was found occupying the heights commanding the road near + La Canada (Santa Cruz), with detachments in some strong + adobe houses near the river banks. The advance had been + seen shortly before at the rocky pass, on the road from + Pojuaque; and near there and before reaching the river, the + San Juan Pueblo Indians, who had joined the revolutionists + reluctantly and under a kind of compulsion, surrendered and + were disarmed by removing the locks from their guns. + On arriving at the Canada, Price ordered his howitzers to + the front and opened fire; and after a sharp cannonade, + directed an assault on the nearest houses by Aubrey's + battalion. Meanwhile an attempt by a Mexican detachment + to cut off the American baggage-wagons, which had not yet + come up, was frustrated by the activity of St. Vrain's + volunteers. A charge all along the line was then ordered + and handsomely executed; the houses, which, being of adobe, + had been practically so many ready-made forts, were + successively carried, and St. Vrain started in advance to + gain the Mexican rear. Seeing this manoeuvre, and fearing + its effects, the Mexicans retreated, leaving thirty-six + dead on the field. Among those killed was General Tafoya, + who bravely remained on the field after the remainder had + abandoned it, and was shot. + + Colonel Price pressed on up the river as fast as possible, + passing San Juan, and at Los Luceros, on the 28th, his + little army was rejoiced at the arrival of reinforcements, + consisting of a mounted company of cavalry, Captain Burgwin's + company, which had been pushed up by forced marches on foot + from Albuquerque, and a six-pounder brought by Lieutenant + Wilson. Thus enlarged, the American force consisted of + four hundred and eighty men, and continued its advance up + the valley to La Joya, which was as far as the river road at + that time extended. Meanwhile the Mexicans had established + themselves in a narrow pass near Embudo, where the forest + was dense, and the road impracticable for wagons or cannon, + the troops occupying the sides of the mountains on both + sides of the canyon. Burgwin was sent with three companies + to dislodge them and open a passage—no easy task. + But St. Vrain's company took the west slope, and another + the right, while Burgwin himself marched through the gorge + between. The sharp-shooting of these troops did such + terrible execution that the pass was soon cleared, though + not without the display of great heroism, and some loss; + and the Americans entered Embudo without further opposition. + The difficulties of this campaign were greatly increased by + the severity of the weather, the mountains being thickly + covered with snow, and the cold so intense that a number + of men were frost-bitten and disabled. The next day Burgwin + reached Las Trampas, where Price arrived with the remainder + of the American army on the last day of January, and all + together they marched into Chamisal. + + Notwithstanding the cold and snow they pressed on over the + mountain, and on the 3d of February reached the town of + Fernandez de Taos, only to find that the Mexican and Pueblo + force had fortified itself in the celebrated Pueblo of Taos, + about three miles distant. That force had diminished + considerably during the retreat from La Canada, many of the + Mexicans returning to their homes, and its greater part + now consisting of Pueblo Indians. The American troops were + worn out with fatigue and exposure, and in most urgent need + of rest; but their intrepid commander, desiring to give his + opponents no more time to strengthen their works, and full + of zeal and energy, if not of prudence, determined to + commence an immediate attack. + + The two great buildings at this Pueblo, certainly the most + interesting and extraordinary inhabited structures in + America, are well known from descriptions and engravings. + They are five stories high and irregularly pyramidal in + shape, each story being smaller than the one below, in order + to allow ingress to the outer rooms of each tier from the + roofs. Before the advent of artillery these buildings were + practically impregnable, as, when the exterior ladders were + drawn up, there were no means of ingress, the side walls + being solid without openings, and of immense thickness. + Between these great buildings, each of which can accommodate + a multitude of men, runs the clear water of the Taos Creek; + and to the west of the northerly building stood the old + church, with walls of adobe from three to seven and a half + feet in thickness. Outside of all, and having its northwest + corner just beyond the church, ran an adobe wall, built for + protection against hostile Indians and which now answered + for an outer earthwork. The church was turned into a + fortification, and was the point where the insurgents + concentrated their strength; and against this Colonel Price + directed his principal attack. The six-pounder and the + howitzer were brought into position without delay, under + the command of Lieutenant Dyer, then a young graduate of + West Point, and since then chief of ordnance of the + United States army, and opened a fire on the thick adobe + walls. But cannon-balls made little impression on the + massive banks of earth, in which they embedded themselves + without doing damage; and after a fire of two hours, + the battery was withdrawn, and the troops allowed to return + to the town of Taos for their much-needed rest. + + Early the next morning, the troops, now refreshed and ready + for the combat, advanced again to the Pueblo, but found + those within equally prepared. The story of the attack and + capture of this place is so interesting, both on account + of the meeting here of old and new systems of warfare—of + modern artillery with an aboriginal stronghold—and because + the precise localities can be distinguished by the modern + tourist from the description, that it seems best to insert + the official report as presented by Colonel Price. + Nothing could show more plainly how superior strong + earthworks are to many more ambitious structures of defence, + or more forcibly display the courage and heroism of those + who took part in the battle, or the signal bravery of the + accomplished Captain Burgwin which led to his untimely death. + Colonel Price writes: + + "Posting the dragoons under Captain Burgwin about two + hundred and sixty yards from the western flank of the church, + I ordered the mounted men under Captains St. Vrain and Slack + to a position on the opposite side of the town, whence they + could discover and intercept any fugitives who might attempt + to escape toward the mountains, or in the direction of + San Fernando. The residue of the troops took ground about + three hundred yards from the north wall. Here, too, + Lieutenant Dyer established himself with the six-pounder + and two howitzers, while Lieutenant Hassendaubel, of Major + Clark's battalion, light artillery, remained with Captain + Burgwin, in command of two howitzers. By this arrangement + a cross-fire was obtained, sweeping the front and eastern + flank of the church. All these arrangements being made, + the batteries opened upon the town at nine o'clock A.M. + At eleven o'clock, finding it impossible to breach the + walls of the church with the six-pounder and howitzers, + I determined to storm the building. At a signal, Captain + Burgwin, at the head of his own company and that of Captain + McMillin, charged the western flank of the church, while + Captain Aubrey, infantry battalion, and Captain Barber and + Lieutenant Boon, Second Missouri Mounted Volunteers, charged + the northern wall. As soon as the troops above mentioned + had established themselves under the western wall of the + church, axes were used in the attempt to breach it, and a + temporary ladder having been made, the roof was fired. + About this time, Captain Burgwin, at the head of a small + party, left the cover afforded by the flank of the church, + and penetrating into the corral in front of that building, + endeavoured to force the door. In this exposed situation, + Captain Burgwin received a severe wound, which deprived me + of his valuable services, and of which he died on the + 7th instant. Lieutenants McIlvaine, First United States + Dragoons, and Royall and Lackland, Second Regiment + Volunteers, accompanied Captain Burgwin into the corral, + but the attempt on the church door proved fruitless, and + they were compelled to retire behind the wall. In the + meantime, small holes had been cut in the western wall, and + shells were thrown in by hand, doing good execution. + The six-pounder was now brought around by Lieutenant Wilson, + who, at the distance of two hundred yards, poured a heavy + fire of grape into the town. The enemy, during all of + this time, kept up a destructive fire upon our troops. + About half-past three o'clock, the six-pounder was run up + within sixty yards of the church, and after ten rounds, + one of the holes which had been cut with the axes was + widened into a practicable breach. The storming party, + among whom were Lieutenant Dyer, of the ordnance, and + Lieutenant Wilson and Taylor, First Dragoons, entered and + took possession of the church without opposition. + The interior was filled with dense smoke, but for which + circumstance our storming party would have suffered great + loss. A few of the enemy were seen in the gallery, + where an open door admitted the air, but they retired + without firing a gun. The troops left to support the + battery on the north side were now ordered to charge on + that side. + + "The enemy then abandoned the western part of the town. + Many took refuge in the large houses on the east, while + others endeavoured to escape toward the mountains. + These latter were pursued by the mounted men under Captains + Slack and St. Vrain, who killed fifty-one of them, only two + or three men escaping. It was now night, and our troops + were quietly quartered in the house which the enemy had + abandoned. On the next morning the enemy sued for peace, + and thinking the severe loss they had sustained would prove + a salutary lesson, I granted their supplication, on the + condition that they should deliver up to me Tomas, one of + their principal men, who had instigated and been actively + engaged in the murder of Governor Bent and others. + The number of the enemy at the battle of Pueblo de Taos + was between six and seven hundred, and of these one hundred + and fifty were killed, wounded not known. Our own loss was + seven killed and forty-five wounded; many of the wounded + have since died." + + The capture of the Taos Pueblo practically ended the main + attempt to expel the Americans from the Territory. + Governor Montoya, who was a very influential man in the + conspiracy and styled himself the "Santa Ana of the North," + was tried by court-martial, convicted, and executed on + February 7th, in the presence of the army. Fourteen others + were tried for participating in the murder of Governor Bent + and the others who were killed on the 19th of January, and + were convicted and executed. Thus, fifteen in all were + hung, being an equal number to those murdered at Taos, the + Arroyo Hondo, and Rio Colorado. Of these, eight were + Mexicans and seven were Pueblo Indians. Several more were + sentenced to be hung for treason, but the President very + properly pardoned them, on the ground that treason against + the United States was not a crime of which a Mexican + citizen could be found guilty, while his country was + actually at war with the United States. +</pre> + <p> + There are several thrilling, as well as laughable, incidents connected + with the Taos massacre, and the succeeding trial of the insurrectionists; + in regard to which I shall quote freely from <i>Wah-to-yah</i>, whose + author, Mr. Lewis H. Garrard, accompanied Colonel St. Vrain across the + plains in 1846, and was present at the trial and execution of the + convicted participants. + </p> + <p> + One Fitzgerald, who was a private in Captain Burgwin's company of + Dragoons, in the fight at the Pueblo de Taos, killed three Mexicans with + his own hand, and performed heroic work with the bombs that were thrown + into that strong Indian fortress. He was a man of good feeling, but his + brother having been killed, or rather murdered by Salazar, while a + prisoner in the Texan expedition against Santa Fe, he swore vengeance, and + entered the service with the hope of accomplishing it. The day following + the fight at the Pueblo, he walked up to the alcalde, and deliberately + shot him down. For this act he was confined to await a trial for murder. + </p> + <p> + One raw night, complaining of cold to his guard, wood was brought, which + he piled up in the middle of the room. Then mounting that, and succeeding + in breaking through the roof, he noiselessly crept to the eaves, below + which a sentinel, wrapped in a heavy cloak, paced to and fro, to prevent + his escape. He watched until the guard's back was turned, then swung + himself from the wall, and with as much ease as possible, walked to a + mess-fire, where his friends in waiting supplied him with a pistol and + clothing. When day broke, the town of Fernandez lay far beneath him in the + valley, and two days after he was safe in our camp. + </p> + <p> + Many a hand-to-hand encounter ensued during the fight at Taos, one of + which was by Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, whom I knew intimately; a grand old + gentleman, now sleeping peacefully in the quaint little graveyard at Mora, + New Mexico, where he resided for many years. The gallant colonel, while + riding along, noticed an Indian with whom he was well acquainted lying + stretched out on the ground as if dead. Confident that this particular red + devil had been especially prominent in the hellish acts of the massacre, + the colonel dismounted from his pony to satisfy himself whether the savage + was really dead or only shamming. He was far from being a corpse, for the + colonel had scarcely reached the spot, when the Indian jumped to his feet + and attempted to run a long, steel-pointed lance through the officer's + shoulder. Colonel St. Vrain was a large, powerfully built man; so was the + Indian, I have been told. As each of the struggling combatants endeavoured + to get the better of the other, with the savage having a little the + advantage, perhaps, it appears that "Uncle Dick" Wooton, who was in the + chase after the rebels, happened to arrive on the scene, and hitting the + Indian a terrific blow on the head with his axe, settled the question as + to his being a corpse. + </p> + <p> + Court for the trial of the insurrectionists assembled at nine o'clock. On + entering the room, Judges Beaubien and Houghton were occupying their + official positions. After many dry preliminaries, six prisoners were + brought in—ill-favoured, half-scared, sullen fellows; and the jury + of Mexicans and Americans having been empanelled, the trial commenced. It + certainly did appear to be a great assumption on the part of the Americans + to conquer a country, and then arraign the revolting inhabitants for + treason. American judges sat on the bench. New Mexicans and Americans + filled the jury-box, and American soldiery guarded the halls. It was a + strange mixture of violence and justice—a middle ground between the + martial and common law. + </p> + <p> + After an absence of a few minutes, the jury returned with a verdict of + "guilty in the first degree"—five for murder, one for treason. + Treason, indeed! What did the poor devil know about his new allegiance? + But so it was; and as the jail was overstocked with others awaiting trial, + it was deemed expedient to hasten the execution, and the culprits were + sentenced to be hung on the following Friday—hangman's day. + </p> + <p> + Court was daily in session; five more Indians and four Mexicans were + sentenced to be hung on the 30th of April. In the court room, on the + occasion of the trial of these nine prisoners, were Senora Bent the late + governor's wife, and Senora Boggs, giving their evidence in regard to the + massacre, of which they were eye-witnesses. Mrs. Bent was quite handsome; + a few years previously she must have been a beautiful woman. The wife of + the renowned Kit Carson also was in attendance. Her style of beauty was of + the haughty, heart-breaking kind—such as would lead a man, with a + glance of the eye, to risk his life for one smile. + </p> + <p> + The court room was a small, oblong apartment, dimly lighted by two narrow + windows; a thin railing keeping the bystanders from contact with the + functionaries. The prisoners faced the judges, and the three witnesses—Senoras + Bent, Boggs, and Carson—were close to them on a bench by the wall. + When Mrs. Bent gave her testimony, the eyes of the culprits were fixed + sternly upon her; when she pointed out the Indian who had killed the + governor, not a muscle of the chief's face twitched or betrayed agitation, + though he was aware her evidence settled his death warrant; he sat with + lips gently closed, eyes earnestly fixed on her, without a show of malice + or hatred—a spectacle of Indian fortitude, and of the severe mastery + to which the emotions can be subjected. + </p> + <p> + Among the jurors was a trapper named Baptiste Brown, a Frenchman, as were + the majority of the trappers in the early days of the border. He was an + exceptionally kind-hearted man when he first came to the mountains, and + seriously inclined to regard the Indians with that mistaken sentimentality + characterizing the average New England philanthropist, who has never seen + the untutored savage on his native heath. His ideas, however, underwent a + marked change as the years rolled on and he became more familiar with the + attributes of the noble red man. He was with Kit Carson in the Blackfeet + country many years before the Taos massacre, when his convictions were + thus modified, and it was from the famous frontiersman himself I learned + the story of Baptiste's conversion. + </p> + <p> + It was late one night in their camp on one of the many creeks in the + Blackfoot region, where they had been established for several weeks, and + Baptiste was on duty, guarding their meat and furs from the incursions of + a too inquisitive grizzly that had been prowling around, and the + impertinent investigations of the wolves. His attention was attracted to + something high up in a neighbouring tree, that seemed restless, changing + its position constantly like an animal of prey. The Frenchman drew a bead + upon it, and there came tumbling down at his feet a dead savage, with his + war-paint and other Indian paraphernalia adorning his body. Baptiste was + terribly hurt over the circumstance of having killed an Indian, and it + grieved him for a long time. One day, a month after the incident, he was + riding alone far away from our party, and out of sound of their rifles as + well, when a band of Blackfeet discovered him and started for his scalp. + He had no possible chance for escape except by the endurance of his horse; + so a race for life began. He experienced no trouble in keeping out of the + way of their arrows—the Indians had no guns then—and hoped to + make camp before they could possibly wear out his horse. Just as he was + congratulating himself on his luck, right in front of him there suddenly + appeared a great gorge, and not daring to stop or to turn to the right or + left, the only thing to do was to make his animal jump it. It was his only + chance; it was death if he missed it, and death by the most horrible + torture if the Indians captured him. So he drove his heels into his + horse's sides, and essayed the awful leap. His willing animal made a + desperate effort to carry out the desire of his daring rider, but the + dizzy chasm was too wide, and the pursuing savages saw both horse and the + coveted white man dash to the bottom of the frightful canyon together. + Believing that their hated enemy had eluded them forever, they rode back + on their trail, disgusted and chagrined, without even taking the trouble + of looking over the precipice to learn the fate of Baptiste. + </p> + <p> + The horse was instantly killed, and the Frenchman had both of his legs + badly broken. Far from camp, with the Indians in close proximity, he did + not dare discharge his rifle—the usual signal when a trapper is lost + or in danger—or to make any demonstration, so he was compelled to + lie there and suffer, hoping that his comrades, missing him, would start + out to search for him. They did so, but more than twenty-four hours had + elapsed before they found him, as the bottom of the canyon was the last + place they thought of. + </p> + <p> + Doctors, in the wild region where their camp was located, were as + impossible as angels; so his companions set his broken bones as well as + they could, while Baptiste suffered excruciating torture. When they had + completed their crude surgery, they improvised a litter of poles, and + rigged it on a couple of pack-mules, and thus carried him around with them + from camp to camp until he recovered—a period extending over three + months. + </p> + <p> + This affair completely cured Baptiste of his original sentimentality in + relation to the Indian, and he became one of their worst haters. + </p> + <p> + When acting as a juror in the trials of rebel Mexicans and Indians, he was + asleep half the time, and never heard much of the evidence, and that + portion which he did was so much Greek to him. In the last nine cases, in + which the Indian who had murdered Governor Bent was tried, Baptiste, as + soon as the jury room was closed, sang out: "Hang 'em, hang 'em, sacre + enfans des garces, dey dam gran rascale!" "But wait," suggested one of the + cooler members; "let's look at the evidence and find out whether they are + really guilty." Upon this wise caution, Baptiste got greatly excited, + paced the floor, and cried out: "Hang de Indian anyhow; he may not be + guilty now—mais he vare soon will be. Hang 'em all, parceque dey + kill Monsieur Charles; dey take son topknot, vot you call im—scalp. + Hang 'em, hang 'em—sa-a-cre-e!" + </p> + <p> + On Friday the 9th, the day for the execution, the sky was unspotted, save + by hastily fleeting clouds; and as the rising sun loomed over the Taos + Mountain, the bright rays, shining on the yellow and white mud-houses, + reflected cheerful hues, while the shades of the toppling peaks, receding + from the plain beneath, drew within themselves. The humble valley wore an + air of calm repose. The Plaza was deserted; woe-begone burros drawled + forth sacrilegious brays, as the warm sunbeams roused them from hard, + grassless ground, to scent their breakfast among straw and bones. + </p> + <p> + Poor Mexicans hurried to and fro, casting suspicious glances around; los + Yankees at El casa Americano drank their juleps, and puffed their + cigarettes in silence. + </p> + <p> + The sheriff, Metcalf, formerly a mountaineer, was in want of the + wherewithal to hang the condemned criminals, so he borrowed some rawhide + lariats and picket-ropes of a teamster. + </p> + <p> + "Hello, Met," said one of the party present, "these reatas are mighty + stiff—won't fit; eh, old feller?" + </p> + <p> + "I've got something to make 'em fit—good 'intment—don't emit + very sweet perfume; but good enough for Greasers," said the sheriff, + producing a dollar's worth of Mexican soft soap. "This'll make 'em slip + easy—a long ways too easy for them, I 'spect." + </p> + <p> + The prison apartment was a long chilly room, badly ventilated by one small + window and the open door, through which the sun lit up the earth floor, + and through which the poor prisoners wistfully gazed. Two muscular + Mexicans basked in its genial warmth, a tattered serape interposing + between them and the ground. The ends, once fringed but now clear of + pristine ornament, were partly drawn over their breasts, disclosing in the + openings of their fancifully colored shirts—now glazed with filth + and faded with perspiration—the bare skin, covered with straight + black hair. With hands under their heads, in the mass of stringy locks + rusty-brown from neglect, they returned the looks of their executioners + with an unmeaning stare, and unheedingly received the salutation of—"Como + le va!" + </p> + <p> + Along the sides of the room, leaning against the walls, were crowded the + poor wretches, miserable in dress, miserable in features, miserable in + feelings—a more disgusting collection of ragged, greasy, unwashed + prisoners were, probably, never before congregated within so small a space + as the jail of Taos. + </p> + <p> + About nine o'clock, active preparations were made for the execution, and + the soldiery mustered. Reverend padres in long black gowns, with meek + countenances, passed the sentinels, intent on spiritual consolation, or + the administration of the Blessed Sacrament. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, commanding the military, ordered every + American under arms. The prison was at the edge of the town; no houses + intervened between it and the fields to the north. One hundred and fifty + yards distant, a gallows was erected. + </p> + <p> + The word was passed, at last, that the criminals were coming. Eighteen + soldiers received them at the gate, with their muskets at "port arms"; the + six abreast, with the sheriff on the right—nine soldiers on each + side. + </p> + <p> + The poor prisoners marched slowly, with downcast eyes, arms tied behind, + and bare heads, with the exception of white cotton caps stuck on the back, + to be pulled over the face as the last ceremony. + </p> + <p> + The roofs of the houses in the vicinity were covered with women and + children, to witness the first execution by hanging in the valley of Taos, + save that of Montojo, the insurgent leader. No men were near; a few stood + afar off, moodily looking on. + </p> + <p> + On the flat jail roof was placed a mountain howitzer, loaded and ranging + the gallows. Near was the complement of men to serve it, one holding in + his hand a lighted match. The two hundred and thirty soldiers, less the + eighteen forming the guard, were paraded in front of the jail, and in + sight of the gibbet, so as to secure the prisoners awaiting trial. + Lieutenant-Colonel Willock, on a handsome charger, commanded a view of the + whole. + </p> + <p> + When within fifteen paces of the gallows, the side-guard, filing off to + the right, formed, at regular distances from each other, three sides of a + hollow square; the mountaineers composed the fourth and front side, in + full view of the trembling prisoners, who marched up to the tree under + which was a government wagon, with two mules attached. The driver and + sheriff assisted them in, ranging them on a board, placed across the + hinder end, which maintained its balance, as they were six—an even + number—two on each extremity, and two in the middle. The gallows was + so narrow that they touched. The ropes, by reason of their size and + stiffness, despite the soaping given them, were adjusted with difficulty; + but through the indefatigable efforts of the sheriff and a lieutenant who + had accompanied him, all preliminaries were arranged, although the blue + uniform looked sadly out of place on a hangman. + </p> + <p> + With rifles at a "shoulder," the military awaited the consummation of the + tragedy. There was no crowd around to disturb; a death-like stillness + prevailed. The spectators on the roofs seemed scarcely to move—their + eyes were directed to the doomed wretches, with harsh halters now + encircling their necks. + </p> + <p> + The sheriff and his assistant sat down; after a few moments of intense + expectation, the heart-wrung victims said a few words to their people. + Only one of them admitted he had committed murder and deserved death. In + their brief but earnest appeals, the words "mi padre, mi madre"—"my + father, my mother"—were prominent. The one sentenced for treason + showed a spirit of patriotism worthy of the cause for which he died—the + liberty of his country; and instead of the cringing recantation of the + others, his speech was a firm asseveration of his own innocence, the + unjustness of his trial, and the arbitrary conduct of his murderers. As + the cap was pulled over his face, the last words he uttered between his + teeth with a scowl were "Carajo, los Americanos!" + </p> + <p> + At a word from the sheriff, the mules were started, and the wagon drawn + from under the tree. No fall was given, and their feet remained on the + board till the ropes drew tight. The bodies swayed back and forth, and + while thus swinging, the hands of two came together with a firm grasp till + the muscles loosened in death. + </p> + <p> + After forty minutes' suspension, Colonel Willock ordered his command to + quarters, and the howitzer to be taken from its place on the roof of the + jail. The soldiers were called away; the women and population in general + collecting around the rear guard which the sheriff had retained for + protection while delivering the dead to their weeping relatives. + </p> + <p> + While cutting a rope from one man's neck—for it was in a hard knot—the + owner, a government teamster standing by waiting, shouted angrily, at the + same time stepping forward: + </p> + <p> + "Hello there! don't cut that rope; I won't have anything to tie my mules + with." + </p> + <p> + "Oh! you darned fool," interposed a mountaineer, "the dead men's ghosts + will be after you if you use them lariats—wagh! They'll make meat of + you sartain." + </p> + <p> + "Well, I don't care if they do. I'm in government service; and if them + picket-halters was gone, slap down goes a dollar apiece. Money's scarce in + these diggin's, and I'm going to save all I kin to take home to the old + woman and boys." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. FIRST OVERLAND MAIL. + </h2> + <p> + On the summit of one of the highest plateaus bordering the Missouri River, + surrounded by a rich expanse of foliage, lies Independence, the beautiful + residence suburb of Kansas City, only ten miles distant. + </p> + <p> + Tradition tells that early in this century there were a few pioneers + camping at long distances from each other in the seemingly interminable + woods; in summer engaged in hunting the deer, elk, and bear, and in winter + in trapping. It is a well-known fact that the Big Blue was once a + favourite resort of the beaver, and that even later their presence in + great numbers attracted many a veteran trapper to its waters. + </p> + <p> + Before that period the quaint old cities of far-off Mexico were forbidden + to foreign traders, excepting to the favoured few who were successful in + obtaining permits from the Spanish government. In 1821, however, the + rebellion of Iturbide crushed the power of the mother country, and + established the freedom of Mexico. The embargo upon foreign trade was at + once removed, and the Santa Fe Trail, for untold ages only a simple trace + across the continent, became the busy highway of a relatively great + commerce. + </p> + <p> + In 1817 the navigation of the Mississippi River was begun. On the 2d of + August of that year the steamer <i>General Pike</i> arrived at St. Louis. + The first boat to ascend the Missouri River was the <i>Independence</i>; + she passed Franklin on the 28th of May, 1819, where a dinner was given to + her officers. In the same and the following month of that year, the + steamers <i>Western Engineer Expedition</i> and <i>R. M. Johnson</i> came + along, carrying Major Long's scientific exploring party, bound for the + Yellowstone. + </p> + <p> + The Santa Fe trade having been inaugurated shortly after these important + events, those engaged in it soon realized the benefits of river navigation—for + it enabled them to shorten the distance which their wagons had to travel + in going across the plains—and they began to look out for a suitable + place as a shipping and outfitting point higher up the river than + Franklin, which had been the initial starting town. + </p> + <p> + By 1827 trading-posts had been established at Blue Mills, Fort Osage, and + Independence. The first-mentioned place, which is situated about six miles + below Independence, soon became the favourite landing, and the exchange + from wagons to boats settled and defied all efforts to remove the + headquarters of the trade from there for several years. Independence, + however, being the county seat and the larger place, succeeded in its + claims to be the more suitable locality, and as early as 1832 it was + recognized as the American headquarters and the great outfitting point for + the Santa Fe commerce, which it continued to be until 1846, when the + traffic was temporarily suspended by the breaking out of the Mexican War. + </p> + <p> + Independence was not only the principal outfitting point for the Santa Fe + traders, but also that of the great fur companies. That powerful + association used to send out larger pack-trains than any other parties + engaged in the traffic to the Rocky Mountains; they also employed wagons + drawn by mules, and loaded with goods for the Indians with whom their + agents bartered, which also on their return trip transported the skins and + pelts of animals procured from the savages. The articles intended for the + Indian trade were always purchased in St. Louis, and usually shipped to + Independence, consigned to the firm of Aull and Company, who outfitted the + traders with mules and provisions, and in fact anything else required by + them. + </p> + <p> + Several individual traders would frequently form joint caravans, and + travel in company for mutual protection from the Indians. After having + reached a fifty-mile limit from the State line, each trader had control of + his own men; each took care of a certain number of the pack-animals, + loaded and unloaded them in camp, and had general supervision of them. + </p> + <p> + Frequently there would be three hundred mules in a single caravan, + carrying three hundred pounds apiece, and very large animals more. + Thousands of wagons were also sent out from Independence annually, each + drawn by twelve mules or six yoke of oxen, and loaded with general + merchandise. + </p> + <p> + There were no packing houses in those days nearer than St. Louis, and the + bacon and beef used in the Santa Fe trade were furnished by the farmers of + the surrounding country, who killed their meat, cured it, and transported + it to the town where they sold it. Their wheat was also ground at the + local mills, and they brought the flour to market, together with corn, + dried fruit, beans, peas, and kindred provisions used on the long route + across the plains. + </p> + <p> + Independence very soon became the best market west of St. Louis for + cattle, mules, and wagons; the trade of which the place was the + acknowledged headquarters furnishing employment to several thousand men, + including the teamsters and packers on the Trail. The wages paid varied + from twenty-five to fifty dollars a month and rations. The price charged + for hauling freight to Santa Fe was ten dollars a hundred pounds, each + wagon earning from five to six hundred dollars every trip, which was made + in eighty or ninety days; some fast caravans making quicker time. + </p> + <p> + The merchants and general traders of Independence in those days reaped a + grand harvest. Everything to eat was in constant demand; mules and oxen + were sold in great numbers every month at excellent prices and always for + cash; while any good stockman could readily make from ten to fifty dollars + a day. + </p> + <p> + One of the largest manufacturers and most enterprising young men in + Independence at that time was Hiram Young, a coloured man. Besides making + hundreds of wagons, he made all the ox-yokes used in the entire traffic; + fifty thousand annually during the '50's and until the breaking out of the + war. The forward yokes were sold at an average of one dollar and a + quarter, the wheel yokes a dollar higher. + </p> + <p> + The freight transported by the wagons was always very securely loaded; + each package had its contents plainly marked on the outside. The wagons + were heavily covered and tightly closed. Every man belonging to the + caravan was thoroughly armed, and ever on the alert to repulse an attack + by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes at the crossing of the Arkansas the quicksands were so bad that + it was necessary to get the caravan over in a hurry; then forty or fifty + yoke of oxen were hitched to one wagon and it was quickly yanked through + the treacherous ford. This was not always the case, however; it depended + upon the stage of water and recent floods. + </p> + <p> + After the close of the war with Mexico, the freight business across the + plains increased to a wonderful degree. The possession of the country by + the United States gave a fresh impetus to the New Mexico trade, and the + traffic then began to be divided between Westport and Kansas City. + Independence lost control of the overland commerce and Kansas City + commenced its rapid growth. Then came the discovery of gold in California, + and this gave an increased business westward; for thousands of men and + their families crossed the plains and the Rocky Mountains, seeking their + fortunes in the new El Dorado. The Old Trail was the highway of an + enormous pilgrimage, and both Independence and Kansas City became the + initial point of a wonderful emigration. + </p> + <p> + In Independence may still be seen a few of the old landmarks when it was + the headquarters of the Santa Fe trade. + </p> + <p> + An overland mail was started from the busy town as early as 1849. In an + old copy of the Missouri <i>Commonwealth</i>, published there under the + date of July, 1850, which I found on file in the Kansas State Historical + Society, there is the following account of the first mail stage westward:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + We briefly alluded, some days since, to the Santa Fe line + of mail stages, which left this city on its first monthly + journey on the 1st instant. The stages are got up in + elegant style, and are each arranged to convey eight + passengers. The bodies are beautifully painted, and made + water-tight, with a view of using them as boats in ferrying + streams. The team consists of six mules to each coach. + The mail is guarded by eight men, armed as follows: Each man + has at his side, fastened in the stage, one of Colt's + revolving rifles; in a holster below, one of Colt's long + revolvers, and in his belt a small Colt's revolver, besides + a hunting-knife; so that these eight men are ready, in case + of attack, to discharge one hundred and thirty-six shots + without having to reload. This is equal to a small army, + armed as in the ancient times, and from the looks of this + escort, ready as they are, either for offensive or defensive + warfare with the savages, we have no fears for the safety + of the mails. + + The accommodating contractors have established a sort of + base of refitting at Council Grove, a distance of one + hundred and fifty miles from this city, and have sent out + a blacksmith, and a number of men to cut and cure hay, with + a quantity of animals, grain, and provisions; and we + understand they intend to make a sort of traveling station + there, and to commence a farm. They also, we believe, + intend to make a similar settlement at Walnut Creek next + season. Two of their stages will start from here the + first of every month. +</pre> + <p> + The old stage-coach days were times of Western romance and adventure, and + the stories told of that era of the border have a singular fascination in + this age of annihilation of distance. + </p> + <p> + Very few, if any, of the famous men who handled the "ribbons" in those + dangerous days of the slow journey across the great plains are among the + living; like the clumsy and forgotten coaches they drove, they have + themselves been mouldering into dust these many years. + </p> + <p> + In many places on the line of the Trail, where the hard hills have not + been subjected to the plough, the deep ruts cut by the lumbering Concord + coaches may yet be distinctly traced. Particularly are they visible from + the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe track, as the cars thunder rapidly + toward the city of Great Bend, in Kansas, three miles east of that town. + Let the tourist as he crosses Walnut Creek look out of his window toward + the east at an angle of about thirty-five degrees, and on the flint hills + which slope gradually toward the railroad, he will observe, very + distinctly, the Old Trail, where it once drew down from the divide to make + the ford at the little stream. + </p> + <p> + The monthly stages started from each end of the route at the same time; + later the service was increased to once a week; after a while to three + times, until in the early '60's daily stages were run from both ends of + the route, and this was continued until the advent of the railroad. + </p> + <p> + Each coach carried eleven passengers, nine closely stowed inside—three + on a seat—and two on the outside on the boot with the driver. The + fare to Santa Fe was two hundred and fifty dollars, the allowance of + baggage being limited to forty pounds; all in excess of that cost half a + dollar a pound. In this now seemingly large sum was included the board of + the travellers, but they were not catered to in any extravagant manner; + hardtack, bacon, and coffee usually exhausted the menu, save that at times + there was an abundance of antelope and buffalo. + </p> + <p> + There was always something exciting in those journeys from the Missouri to + the mountains in the lumbering Concord coach. There was the constant fear + of meeting the wily red man, who persistently hankered after the white + man's hair. Then there was the playfulness of the sometimes drunken + driver, who loved to upset his tenderfoot travellers in some arroya, long + after the moon had sunk below the horizon. + </p> + <p> + It required about two weeks to make the trip from the Missouri River to + Santa Fe, unless high water or a fight with the Indians made it several + days longer. The animals were changed every twenty miles at first, but + later, every ten, when faster time was made. What sleep was taken could + only be had while sitting bolt upright, because there was no laying over; + the stage continued on night and day until Santa Fe was reached. + </p> + <p> + After a few years, the company built stations at intervals varying from + ten miles to fifty or more; and there the animals and drivers were + changed, and meals furnished to travellers, which were always substantial, + but never elegant in variety or cleanliness. + </p> + <p> + Who can ever forget those meals at the "stations," of which you were + obliged to partake or go hungry: biscuit hard enough to serve as + "round-shot," and a vile decoction called, through courtesy, coffee—but + God help the man who disputed it! + </p> + <p> + Some stations, however, were notable exceptions, particularly in the + mountains of New Mexico, where, aside from the bread—usually only + tortillas, made of the blue-flint corn of the country—and coffee + composed of the saints may know what, the meals were excellent. The most + delicious brook trout, alternating with venison of the black-tailed deer, + elk, bear, and all the other varieties of game abounding in the region + cost you one dollar, but the station-keeper a mere trifle; no wonder the + old residents and ranchmen on the line of the Old Trail lament the good + times of the overland stage! + </p> + <p> + Thirteen years ago I revisited the once well-known Kosloskie's Ranch, a + picturesque cabin at the foot of the Glorieta Mountains, about half a mile + from the ruins on the Rio Pecos. The old Pole was absent, but his wife was + there; and, although I had not seen her for fifteen years, she remembered + me well, and at once began to deplore the changed condition of the country + since the advent of the railroad, declaring it had ruined their family + with many others. I could not disagree with her view of the matter, as I + looked on the debris of a former relative greatness all around me. I + recalled the fact that once Kosloskie's Ranch was the favourite eating + station on the Trail; where you were ever sure of a substantial meal—the + main feature of which was the delicious brook trout, which were caught out + of the stream which ran near the door while you were washing the dust out + of your eyes and ears. + </p> + <p> + The trout have vacated the Pecos; the ranch is a ruin, and stands in grim + contrast with the old temple and church on the hill; and both are + monuments of civilizations that will never come again. + </p> + <p> + Weeds and sunflowers mark the once broad trail to the quaint Aztec city, + and silence reigns in the beautiful valley, save when broken by the + passage of "The Flyer" of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe railway, as + it struggles up the heavy grade of the Glorieta Mountains a mile or more + distant. + </p> + <p> + Besides the driver, there was another employee—the conductor or + messenger, as he was called. He had charge of the mail and express matter, + collected the fares, and attended generally to the requirements of those + committed to his care during the tedious journey; for he was not changed + like the driver, but stayed with the coach from its starting to its + destination. Sometimes fourteen individuals were accommodated in case of + emergency; but it was terribly crowded and uncomfortable riding, with no + chance to stretch your limbs, save for a few moments at stations where you + ate and changed animals. + </p> + <p> + In starting from Independence, powerful horses were attached to the coach—generally + four in number; but at the first station they were exchanged for mules, + and these animals hauled it the remainder of the way. Drivers were changed + about eight times in making the trip to Santa Fe; and some of them were + comical fellows, but full of nerve and endurance, for it required a man of + nerve to handle eight frisky mules through the rugged passes of the + mountains, when the snow was drifted in immense masses, or when descending + the curved, icy declivities to the base of the range. A cool head was + highly necessary; but frequently accidents occurred and sometimes were + serious in their results. + </p> + <p> + A snowstorm in the mountains was a terrible thing to encounter by the + coach; all that could be done was to wait until it had abated, as there + was no going on in the face of the blinding sheets of intensely cold + vapour which the wind hurled against the sides of the mountains. All + inside of the coach had to sit still and shake with the freezing branches + of the tall trees around them. A summer hailstorm was much more to be + dreaded, however; for nowhere else on the earth do the hailstones shoot + from the clouds of greater size or with greater velocity than in the Rocky + Mountains. Such an event invariably frightened the mules and caused them + to stampede; and, to escape death from the coach rolling down some + frightful abyss, one had to jump out, only to be beaten to a jelly by the + masses of ice unless shelter could be found under some friendly ledge of + rock or the thick limbs of a tree. + </p> + <p> + Nothing is more fatiguing than travelling for the first day and night in a + stage-coach; after that, however, one gets used to it and the remainder of + the journey is relatively comfortable. + </p> + <p> + The only way to alleviate the monotony of riding hour after hour was to + walk; occasionally this was rendered absolutely necessary by some + accident, such as breaking a wheel or axle, or when an animal gave out + before a station was reached. In such cases, however, no deduction was + made from the fare, that having been collected in advance, so it cost you + just as much whether you rode or walked. You could exercise your will in + the matter, but you must not lag behind the coach; the savages were always + watching for such derelicts, and your hair was the forfeit! + </p> + <p> + In the worst years, when the Indians were most decidedly on the war-trail, + the government furnished an escort of soldiers from the military posts; + they generally rode in a six-mule army-wagon, and were commanded by a + sergeant or corporal; but in the early days, before the army had + concentrated at the various forts on the great plains, the stage had to + rely on the courage and fighting qualities of its occupants, and the nerve + and the good judgment of the driver. If the latter understood his duty + thoroughly and was familiar with the methods of the savages, he always + chose the cover of darkness in which to travel in localities where the + danger from Indians was greater than elsewhere; for it is a rare thing in + savage warfare to attack at night. The early morning seemed to be their + favourite hour, when sleep oppresses most heavily; and then it was that + the utmost vigilance was demanded. + </p> + <p> + One of the most confusing things to the novice riding over the great + plains is the idea of distance; mile after mile is travelled on the + monotonous trail, with a range of hills or a low divide in full sight, yet + hours roll by and the objects seem no nearer than when they were first + observed. The reason for this seems to be that every atom of vapour is + eliminated from the air, leaving such an absolute clearness of atmosphere, + such an indescribable transparency of space through which distant objects + are seen, that they are magnified and look nearer than they really are. + Consequently, the usual method of calculating distance and areas by the + eye is ever at fault until custom and familiarity force a new standard of + measure. + </p> + <p> + Mirages, too, were of frequent occurrence on the great plains; some of + them wonderful examples of the refracting properties of light. They + assumed all manner of fantastic, curious shapes, sometimes ludicrously + distorting the landscape; objects, like a herd of buffalo for instance, + though forty miles away, would seem to be high in air, often reversed, and + immensely magnified in their proportions. + </p> + <p> + Violent storms were also frequent incidents of the long ride. I well + remember one night, about thirty years ago, when the coach in which I and + one of my clerks were riding to Fort Dodge was suddenly brought to a + standstill by a terrible gale of wind and hail. The mules refused to face + it, and quickly turning around nearly overturned the stage, while we, with + the driver and conductor, were obliged to hold on to the wheels with all + our combined strength to prevent it from blowing down into a stony ravine, + on the brink of which we were brought to a halt. Fortunately, these + fearful blizzards did not last very long; the wind ceased blowing so + violently in a few moments, but the rain usually continued until morning. + </p> + <p> + It usually happened that you either at once took a great liking for your + driver and conductor, or the reverse. Once, on a trip from Kansas City, + nearly a third of a century ago, when I and another man were the only + occupants of the coach, we entertained quite a friendly feeling for our + driver; he was a good-natured, jolly fellow, full of anecdote and stories + of the Trail, over which he had made more than a hundred sometimes + adventurous journeys. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived at the station at Plum Creek, the coach was a little ahead + of time, and the driver who was there to relieve ours commenced to grumble + at the idea of having to start out before the regular hour. He found fault + because we had come into the station so soon, and swore he could drive + where our man could not "drag a halter-chain," as he claimed in his + boasting. We at once took a dislike to him, and secretly wished that he + would come to grief, in order to cure him of his boasting. Sure enough, + before we had gone half a mile from the station he incontinently tumbled + the coach over into a sandy arroya, and we were delighted at the accident. + Finding ourselves free from any injury, we went to work and assisted him + to right the coach—no small task; but we took great delight in + reminding him several times of his ability to drive where our old friend + could not "drag a halter-chain." It was very dark; neither moon or star + visible, the whole heavens covered with an inky blackness of ominous + clouds; so he was not so much to be blamed after all. + </p> + <p> + The very next coach was attacked at the crossing of Cow Creek by a band of + Kiowas. The savages had followed the stage all that afternoon, but + remained out of sight until just at dark, when they rushed over the low + divide, and mounted on their ponies commenced to circle around the coach, + making the sand dunes resound with echoes of their infernal yelling, and + shaking their buffalo-robes to stampede the mules, at the same time firing + their guns at the men who were in the coach, all of whom made a bold + stand, but were rapidly getting the worst of it, when fortunately a + company of United States cavalry came over the Trail from the west, and + drove the savages off. Two of the men in the coach were seriously wounded, + and one of the soldiers killed; but the Indian loss was never determined, + as they succeeded in carrying off both their dead and wounded. + </p> + <p> + Mr. W. H. Ryus, a friend of mine now residing in Kansas City, who was a + driver and messenger thirty-five years, and had many adventures, told me + the following incidents: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + I have crossed the plains sixty-five times by wagon and + coach. In July, 1861, I was employed by Barnum, Vickery, + and Neal to drive over what was known as the Long Route, + that is, from Fort Larned to Fort Lyon, two hundred and + forty miles, with no station between. We drove one set of + mules the whole distance, camped out, and made the journey, + in good weather, in four or five days. In winter we + generally encountered a great deal of snow, and very cold + air on the bleak and wind-swept desert of the Upper Arkansas, + but we employees got used to that; only the passengers did + any kicking. We had a way of managing them, however, + when they got very obstreperous; all we had to do was to + yell Indians! and that quieted them quicker than forty-rod + whiskey does a man. + + We gathered buffalo-chips, to boil our coffee and cook our + buffalo and antelope steak, smoked for a while around the + smouldering fire until the animals were through grazing, + and then started on our lonely way again. + + Sometimes the coach would travel for a hundred miles through + the buffalo herds, never for a moment getting out of sight + of them; often we saw fifty thousand to a hundred thousand + on a single journey out or in. The Indians used to call + them their cattle, and claimed to own them. They did not, + like the white man, take out only the tongue, or hump, and + leave all the rest to dry upon the prairie, but ate every + last morsel, even to the intestines. They said the whites + were welcome to all they could eat or haul away, but they + did not like to see so much meat wasted as was our custom. + + The Indians on the plains were not at all hostile in 1861-62; + we could drive into their villages, where there were tens + of thousands of them, and they would always treat us to + music or a war-dance, and set before us the choicest of + their venison and buffalo. In July of the last-mentioned + year, Colonel Leavenworth, Jr., was crossing the Trail in + my coach. He desired to see Satanta, the great Kiowa chief. + The colonel's father<a href="#linknote-28" name="linknoteref-28" + id="linknoteref-28">28</a> was among the Indians a great deal + while on duty as an army officer, while the young colonel + was a small boy. The colonel said he didn't believe that + old Satanta would know him. + + Just before the arrival of the coach in the region of the + Indian village, the Comanches and the Pawnees had been + having a battle. The Comanches had taken some scalps, + and they were camping on the bank of the Arkansas River, + where Dodge City is now located. The Pawnees had killed + five of their warriors, and the Comanches were engaged in + an exciting war-dance; I think there were from twenty to + thirty thousand Indians gathered there, men, women, and + children of the several tribes—Comanches, Kiowas, Cheyennes, + Arapahoes, and others. + + When we came in sight of their camp, the colonel knew, by + the terrible noise they were making, that a war-dance was + going on; but we did not know then whether it was on account + of troubles among themselves, or because of a fight with + the whites, but we were determined to find out. If he could + get to the old chief, all would be right. So he and I + started for the place whence the noise came. We met a savage + and the colonel asked him whether Satanta was there, and + what was going on. When he told us that they had had + a fight and it was a scalp-dance, our hair lowered; for we + knew that if it was in consequence of trouble with the + whites, we stood in some danger of losing our own scalps. + + The Indian took us in, and the situation, too; and conducted + us into the presence of Satanta, who stood in the middle + of the great circle, facing the dancers. It was out on an + island in the stream; the chief stood very erect, and eyed + us closely for a few seconds, then the colonel told his + own name that the Indians had known him by when he was a boy. + Satanta gave one bound—he was at least ten feet from where + we were waiting—grasped the colonel's hand and excitedly + kissed him, then stood back for another instant, gave him + a second squeeze, offered his hand to me, which I, + of course, shook heartily, then he gazed at the man he had + known as a boy so many years ago, with a countenance + beaming with delight. I never saw any one, even among + the white race, manifest so much joy as the old chief did + over the visit of the colonel to his camp. + + He immediately ordered some of his young men to go out and + herd our mules through the night, which they brought back + to us at daylight. He then had the coach hauled to the + front of his lodge, where we could see all that was going on + to the best advantage. We had six travellers with us on + this journey, and it was a great sight for the tenderfeet. + + It was about ten o'clock at night when we arrived at + Satanta's lodge, and we saw thousands of squaws and bucks + dancing and mourning for their dead warriors. At midnight + the old chief said we must eat something at once. So he + ordered a fire built, cooked buffalo and venison, setting + before us the very best that he had, we furnishing canned + fruit, coffee, and sugar from our coach mess. There we sat, + and talked and ate until morning; then when we were ready + to start off, Satanta and the other chiefs of the various + tribes escorted us about eight miles on the Trail, where + we halted for breakfast, they remaining and eating with us. +</pre> + <p> + Colonel Leavenworth was on his way to assume command of one of the + military posts in New Mexico; the Indians begged him to come back and take + his quarters at either Fort Larned or Fort Dodge. They told him they were + afraid their agent was stealing their goods and selling them back to them; + while if the Indians took anything from the whites, a war was started. + </p> + <p> + Colonel A. G. Boone had made a treaty with these same Indians in 1860, and + it was agreed that he should be their agent. It was done, and the entire + savage nations were restful and kindly disposed toward the whites during + his administration; any one could then cross the plains without fear of + molestation. In 1861, however, Judge Wright, of Indiana, who was a member + of Congress at the time, charged Colonel Boone with disloyalty.<a + href="#linknote-29" name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a> + He succeeded in having him removed. + </p> + <p> + Majors Russel and Waddell, the great government freight contractors across + the plains, gave Colonel Boone fourteen hundred acres of land, well + improved, with some fine buildings on it, about fifteen miles east of + Pueblo, Colorado. It was christened Booneville, and the colonel moved + there. In the fall of 1862, fifty influential Indians of the various + tribes visited Colonel Boone at his new home, and begged that he would + come back to them and be their agent. He told the chiefs that the + President of the United States would not let him. Then they offered to + sell their horses to raise money for him to go to Washington to tell the + Great Father what their agent was doing; and to have him removed, or there + was going to be trouble. The Indians told Colonel Boone that many of their + warriors would be on the plains that fall, and they were declaring they + had as much right to take something to eat from the trains as their agent + had to steal goods from them. + </p> + <p> + Early in the winter of the next year, a small caravan of eight or ten + wagons travelling to the Missouri River was overhauled at Nine Mile Ridge, + about fifty miles west of Fort Dodge, by a band of Indians, who asked for + something to eat. The teamsters, thinking them to be hostile, believed it + would be a good thing to kill one of them anyhow; so they shot an + inoffensive warrior, after which the train moved on to its camp and the + trouble began. Every man in the whole outfit, with the exception of one + teamster, who luckily got to the Arkansas River and hid, was murdered, the + animals all carried away, and the wagons and contents destroyed by fire. + </p> + <p> + This foolish act by the master of the caravan was the cause of a long war, + causing hundreds of atrocious murders and the destruction of a great deal + of property along the whole Western frontier. + </p> + <p> + That fall, 1863, Mr. Ryus was the messenger or conductor in charge of the + coach running from Kansas City to Santa Fe. He said: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It then required a month to make the round trip, about + eighteen hundred miles. On account of the Indian war + we had to have an escort of soldiers to go through the most + dangerous portions of the Trail; and the caravans all + joined forces for mutual safety, besides having an escort. + + My coach was attacked several times during that season, and + we had many close calls for our scalps. Sometimes the + Indians would follow us for miles, and we had to halt and + fight them; but as for myself, I had no desire to kill one + of the miserable, outraged creatures, who had been swindled + out of their just rights. + + I know of but one occasion when we were engaged in a fight + with them when our escort killed any of the attacking + savages; it was about two miles from Little Coon Creek + Station, where they surrounded the coach and commenced + hostilities. In the fight one officer and one enlisted man + were wounded. The escort chased the band for several miles, + killed nine of them, and got their horses. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. CHARLES BENT. + </h2> + <p> + Almost immediately after the ratification of the purchase of New Mexico by + the United States under the stipulations of the "Guadalupe-Hidalgo + Treaty," the Utes, one of the most powerful tribes of mountain Indians, + inaugurated a bloody and relentless war against the civilized inhabitants + of the Territory. It was accompanied by all the horrible atrocities which + mark the tactics of savage hatred toward the white race. It continued for + several years with more or less severity; its record a chapter of history + whose pages are deluged with blood, until finally the Indians were subdued + by the power of the military. + </p> + <p> + Along the line of the Santa Fe Trail, they were frequently in conjunction + with the Apaches, and their depredations and atrocities were very + numerous; they attacked fearlessly freight caravans, private expeditions, + and overland stage-coaches, robbing and murdering indiscriminately. + </p> + <p> + In January, 1847, the mail and passenger stage left Independence, + Missouri, for Santa Fe on one of its regular trips across the plains. It + had its full complement of passengers, among whom were a Mr. White and + family, consisting of his wife, one child, and a coloured nurse. + </p> + <p> + Day after day the lumbering Concord coach rolled on, with nothing to + disturb the monotony of the vast prairies, until it had left them far + behind and crossed the Range into New Mexico. Just about dawn, as the + unsuspecting travellers were entering the "canyon of the Canadian,"<a + href="#linknote-30" name="linknoteref-30" id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a> + and probably waking up from their long night's sleep, a band of Indians, + with blood-curdling yells and their terrific war-whoop, rode down upon + them. + </p> + <p> + In that lonely and rock-sheltered gorge a party of the hostile savages, + led by "White Wolf," a chief of the Apaches, had been awaiting the arrival + of the coach from the East; the very hour it was due was well known to + them, and they had secreted themselves there the night before so as to be + on hand should it reach their chosen ambush a little before the schedule + time. + </p> + <p> + Out dashed the savages, gorgeous in their feathered war-bonnets, but + looking like fiends with their paint-bedaubed faces. Stopping the + frightened mules, they pulled open the doors of the coach and, mercilessly + dragging its helpless and surprised inmates to the ground, immediately + began their butchery. They scalped and mutilated the dead bodies of their + victims in their usual sickening manner, not a single individual escaping, + apparently, to tell of their fiendish acts. + </p> + <p> + If the Indians had been possessed of sufficient cunning to cover up the + tracks of their horrible atrocities, as probably white robbers would have + done, by dragging the coach from the road and destroying it by fire or + other means, the story of the murders committed in the deep canyon might + never have been known; but they left the tell-tale remains of the + dismantled vehicle just where they had attacked it, and the naked corpses + of its passengers where they had been ruthlessly killed. + </p> + <p> + At the next stage station the employees were anxiously waiting for the + arrival of the coach, and wondering what could have caused the delay; for + it was due there at noon on the day of the massacre. Hour after hour + passed, and at last they began to suspect that something serious had + occurred; they sat up all through the night listening for the familiar + rumbling of wheels, but still no stage. At daylight next morning, + determined to wait no longer, as they felt satisfied that something out of + the usual course had happened, a party hurriedly mounted their horses and + rode down the broad trail leading to the canyon. + </p> + <p> + Upon entering its gloomy mouth after a quick lope of an hour, they + discovered the ghastly remains of twelve mutilated bodies. These were + gathered up and buried in one grave, on the top of the bluff overlooking + the narrow gorge. + </p> + <p> + They could not be sure of the number of passengers the coach had brought + until the arrival of the next, as it would have a list of those carried by + its predecessor; but it would not be due for several days. They naturally + supposed, however, that the twelve dead lying on the ground were its full + complement. + </p> + <p> + Not waiting for the arrival of the next stage, they despatched a messenger + to the last station east that the one whose occupants had been murdered + had passed, and there learned the exact number of passengers it had + contained. Now they knew that Mrs. White, her child, and the coloured + nurse had been carried off into a captivity worse than death; for no + remains of a woman were found with the others lying in the canyon. + </p> + <p> + The terrible news of the massacre was conveyed to Taos, where were + stationed several companies of the Second United States Dragoons, + commanded by Major William Greer; but as the weather had grown intensely + cold and stormy since the date of the massacre, it took nearly a fortnight + for the terrible story to reach there. The Major acted promptly when + appealed to to go after and punish the savages concerned in the outrage, + but several days more were lost in getting an expedition ready for the + field. It was still stormy while the command was preparing for its work; + but at last, one bright morning, in a piercing cold wind, five troops of + the dragoons, commanded by Major Greer in person, left their comfortable + quarters to attempt the rescue of Mrs. White, her child, and nurse. + </p> + <p> + Kit Carson, "Uncle Dick" Wooten, Joaquin Leroux, and Tom Tobin were the + principal scouts and guides accompanying the expedition, having + volunteered their services to Major Greer, which he had gladly accepted. + </p> + <p> + The massacre having occurred three weeks before the command had arrived at + the canyon of the Canadian, and snow having fallen almost continuously + ever since, the ground was deeply covered, making it almost impossible to + find the trail of the savages leading out of the gorge. No one knew where + they had established their winter camp—probably hundreds of miles + distant on some tributary of the Canadian far to the south. + </p> + <p> + Carson, Wooton, and Leroux, after scanning the ground carefully at every + point, though the snow was ten inches deep, in a way of which only men + versed in savage lore are capable, were rewarded by discovering certain + signs, unintelligible to the ordinary individual<a href="#linknote-31" + name="linknoteref-31" id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a>—that + the murderers had gone south out of the canyon immediately after + completing their bloody work, and that their camp was somewhere on the + river, but how far off none could tell. + </p> + <p> + The command followed up the trail discovered by the scouts for nearly four + hundred miles. Early one morning when that distance had been rounded, and + just as the men were about to break camp preparatory to the day's march, + Carson went out on a little reconnoissance on his own account, as he had + noticed a flock of ravens hovering in the air when he first got out of his + blankets at dawn, which was sufficient indication to him that an Indian + camp was located somewhere in the vicinity; for that ominous bird is + always to be found in the region where the savages take up an abode, + feeding upon the carcasses of the many varieties of game killed for food. + He had not proceeded more than half a mile from the camp when he + discovered two Indians slowly riding over a low "divide," driving a herd + of ponies before them. The famous scout was then certain their village + could not be very far away. The savages did not observe him, as he took + good care they should not; so he returned quickly to where Major Greer was + standing by his camp-fire and reported the presence of a village very + close at hand. + </p> + <p> + The Major having sent for Tom Tobin and Uncle Dick Wooton, requested them + to go and find the exact location of the savages. These scouts came back + in less than half an hour, and reported a large number of teepees in a + thick grove of timber a mile away. + </p> + <p> + It was at once determined to surprise the savages in their winter quarters + by charging right among their lodges without allowing them time to mount + their ponies, as the gallant Custer rode, at the head of his famous + troopers of the Seventh Cavalry, into the camp of the celebrated chief + "Black Kettle" on the Washita, in the dawn of a cold November morning + twenty years afterward. + </p> + <p> + The command succeeded in getting within good charging distance of the + village without its occupants having any knowledge of its proximity; but + at this moment Major Greer was seized with an idea that he ought to have a + parley with the Indians before he commenced to fight them, and for that + purpose he ordered a halt, just as the soldiers were eager for the sound + of the "Charge!" + </p> + <p> + Never were a body of men more enraged. Carson gave vent to his wrath in a + series of elaborately carved English oaths, for which he was noted when + young; Leroux, whose naturally hot blood was roused, swore at the Major in + a curious mixture of bad French and worse mountain dialect, and it + appeared as if the battle would begin in the ranks of the troops instead + of those of the savages; for never was a body of soldiers so disgusted at + the act of any commanding officer. + </p> + <p> + This delay gave the Indians, who could be seen dodging about among their + lodges and preparing for a fight that was no longer a surprise, time to + hide their women and children, mount their ponies, and get down into deep + ravines, where the soldiers could not follow them. While the Major was + trying to convince his subordinates that his course was the proper one, + the Indians opened fire without any parley, and it happened that at the + first volley a bullet struck him in the breast, but a suspender buckle + deflected its course and he was not seriously wounded. + </p> + <p> + The change in the countenance of their commanding officer caused by the + momentary pain was just the incentive the troopers wanted, and without + waiting for the sound of the trumpet, they spurred their horses, dashed + in, and charged the thunderstruck savages with the shock of a tornado. + </p> + <p> + In two successful charges of the gallant and impatient troopers more than + a hundred of the Indians were killed and wounded, but the time lost had + permitted many to escape, and the pursuit of the stragglers would have + been unavailing under the circumstances; so the command turned back and + returned to Taos. In the village was found the body of Mrs. White still + warm, with three arrows in her breast. Had the charge been made as + originally expected by the troopers, her life would have been saved. No + trace of the child or of the coloured nurse was ever discovered, and it is + probable that they were both killed while en route from the canyon to the + village, as being valueless to keep either as slaves or for other + purposes. + </p> + <p> + The fate of the Apache chief, "White Wolf," who was the leader in the + outrages in the canyon of the Canadian, was fitting for his devilish + deeds. It was Lieutenant David Bell's fortune to avenge the murder of Mrs. + White and her family, and in an extraordinary manner.<a href="#linknote-32" + name="linknoteref-32" id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> The action + was really dramatic, or romantic; he was on a scout with his company, + which was stationed at Fort Union, New Mexico, having about thirty men + with him, and when near the canyon of the Canadian they met about the same + number of Indians. A parley was in order at once, probably desired by the + savages, who were confronted with an equal number of troopers. Bell had + assigned the baggage-mules to the care of five or six of his command, and + held a mounted interview with the chief, who was no other than the + infamous White Wolf of the Jicarilla Apaches. As Bell approached, White + Wolf was standing in front of his Indians, who were on foot, all well + armed and in perfect line. Bell was in advance of his troopers, who were + about twenty paces from the Indians, exactly equal in number and extent of + line; both parties were prepared to use firearms. + </p> + <p> + The parley was almost tediously long and the impending duel was arranged, + White Wolf being very bold and defiant. + </p> + <p> + At last the leaders exchanged shots, the chief sinking on one knee and + aiming his gun, Bell throwing his body forward and making his horse rear. + Both lines, by command, fired, following the example of their superiors, + the troopers, however, spurring forward over their enemies. The warriors, + or nearly all of them, threw themselves on the ground, and several + vertical wounds were received by horse and rider. The dragoons turned + short about, and again charged through and over their enemies, the fire + being continuous. As they turned for a third charge, the surviving Indians + were seen escaping to a deep ravine, which, although only one or two + hundred paces off, had not previously been noticed. A number of the + savages thus escaped, the troopers having to pull up at the brink, but + sending a volley after the descending fugitives. + </p> + <p> + In less than fifteen minutes twenty-one of the forty-six actors in this + strange combat were slain or disabled. Bell was not hit, but four or five + of his men were killed or wounded. He had shot White Wolf several times, + and so did others after him; but so tenacious of life was the Apache that, + to finish him, a trooper got a great stone and mashed his head. + </p> + <p> + This was undoubtedly the greatest duel of modern times; certainly nothing + like it ever occurred on the Santa Fe Trail before or since. + </p> + <p> + The war chief of the Kiowa nation in the early '50's was Satank, a most + unmitigated villain; cruel and heartless as any savage that ever robbed a + stage-coach or wrenched off the hair of a helpless woman. After serving a + dozen or more years with a record for hellish atrocities equalled by few + of his compeers, he was deposed for alleged cowardice, as his warriors + claimed, under the following circumstances:— + </p> + <p> + The village of his tribe was established in the large bottoms, eight miles + from the Great Bend of the Arkansas, and about the same distance from Fort + Zarah.<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a> + All the bucks were absent on a hunting expedition, excepting Satank and a + few superannuated warriors. The troops were out from Fort Larned on a + grand scout after marauding savages, when they suddenly came across the + village and completely took the Kiowas by surprise. Seeing the soldiers + almost upon them, Satank and other warriors jumped on their ponies and + made good their escape. Had they remained, all of them would have been + killed or at least captured; consequently Satank, thinking discretion + better than valour at that particular juncture, incontinently fled. His + warriors in council, however, did not agree with him; they thought that it + was his duty to have remained at the village in defence of the women and + children, as he had been urged to refrain from going on the hunt for that + very purpose. + </p> + <p> + Some time before Satank lost his office of chief, there was living on Cow + Creek, in a rude adobe building, a man who was ostensibly an Indian + trader, but whose traffic, in reality, consisted in selling whiskey to the + Indians, and consequently the United States troops were always after him. + He was obliged to cache his liquor in every conceivable manner so that the + soldiers should not discover it, and, of course, he dreaded the incursions + of the troops much more than he did raids of the Indian marauders that + were constantly on the Trail. + </p> + <p> + Satank and this illicit trader, whose name was Peacock, were great chums. + One day while they were indulging in a general good time over sundry + drinks of most villanous liquor, Satank said to Peacock: "Peacock, I want + you to write me a letter; a real nice one, that I can show to the + wagon-bosses on the Trail, and get all the 'chuck' I want. Tell them I am + Satank, the great chief of the Kiowas, and for them to treat me the best + they know how." + </p> + <p> + "All right, Satank," said Peacock; "I'll do so." Peacock then sat down and + wrote the following epistle:— + </p> + <p> + "The bearer of this is Satank. He is the biggest liar, beggar, and thief + on the plains. What he can't beg of you, he'll steal. Kick him out of + camp, for he is a lazy, good-for-nothing Indian." + </p> + <p> + Satank began at once to make use of the supposed precious document, which + he really believed would assure him the dignified treatment and courtesy + due to his exalted rank. He presented it to several caravans during the + ensuing week, and, of course, received a very cool reception in every + instance, or rather a very warm one. + </p> + <p> + One wagon-master, in fact, black-snaked him out of his camp. After these + repeated insults he sought another white friend, and told of his + grievances. "Look here," said Satank, "I asked Peacock to write me a good + letter, and he gave me this; but I don't understand it! Every time I hand + it to a wagon-boss, he gives me the devil! Read it to me and tell me just + what it does say." + </p> + <p> + His friend read it over, and then translated it literally to Satank. The + savage assumed a countenance of extreme disgust, and after musing for a + few moments, said: "Well, I understand it all now. All right!" + </p> + <p> + The next morning at daylight, Satank called for some of his braves and + with them rode out to Peacock's ranch. Arriving there, he called out to + Peacock, who had not yet risen: "Peacock, get up, the soldiers are + coming!" It was a warning which the illicit trader quickly obeyed, and + running out of the building with his field-glass in his hand, he started + for his lookout, but while he was ascending the ladder with his back to + Satank the latter shot him full of holes, saying, as he did so: "There, + Peacock, I guess you won't write any more letters." + </p> + <p> + His warriors then entered the building and killed every man in it, save + one who had been gored by a buffalo bull the day before, and who was lying + in a room all by himself. He was saved by the fact that the Indian has a + holy dread of small-pox, and will never enter an apartment where sick men + lie, fearing they may have the awful disease. + </p> + <p> + Satanta (White Bear) was the most efficient and dreaded chief of all who + have ever been at the head of the Kiowa nation. Ever restlessly active in + ordering or conducting merciless forays against an exposed frontier, he + was the very incarnation of deviltry in his determined hatred of the + whites, and his constant warfare against civilization. + </p> + <p> + He also possessed wonderful oratorical powers; he could hurl the most + violent invectives at those whom he argued with, or he could be equally + pathetic when necessary. He was justly called "The Orator of the Plains," + rivalling the historical renown of Tecumseh or Pontiac. + </p> + <p> + He was a short, bullet-headed Indian, full of courage and well versed in + strategy. Ordinarily, when on his visits to the various military posts he + wore a major-general's full uniform, a suit of that rank having been given + to him in the summer of 1866 by General Hancock. He also owned an + ambulance, a team of mules, and a set of harness, the last stolen, maybe, + from some caravan he had raided on the Trail. In that ambulance, with a + trained Indian driver, the wily chief travelled, wrapped in a savage + dignity that was truly laughable. In his village, too, he assumed a great + deal of style. He was very courteous to his white guests, if at the time + his tribe were at all friendly with the government; nothing was too good + for them. He always laid down a carpet on the floor of his lodge in the + post of honour, on which they were to sit. He had large boards, twenty + inches wide and three feet long, ornamented with brass tacks driven all + around the edges, which he used for tables. He also had a French horn, + which he blew vigorously when meals were ready. + </p> + <p> + His friendship was only dissembling. During all the time that General + Sheridan was making his preparations for his intended winter campaign + against the allied plains tribes, Satanta made frequent visits to the + military posts, ostensibly to show the officers that he was heartily for + peace, but really to inform himself of what was going on. + </p> + <p> + At that time I was stationed at Fort Harker, on the Smoky Hill. One + evening, General Sheridan, who was my guest, was sitting on the verandah + of my quarters, smoking and chatting with me and some other officers who + had come to pay him their respects, when one of my men rode up and quietly + informed me that Satanta had just driven his ambulance into the fort, and + was getting ready to camp near the mule corral. On receiving this + information, I turned to the general and suggested the propriety of either + killing or capturing the inveterate demon. Personally I believed it would + be right to get rid of such a character, and I had men under my command + who would have been delighted to execute an order to that effect. + </p> + <p> + Sheridan smiled when I told him of Satanta's presence and the excellent + chance to get rid of him. But he said: "That would never do; the + sentimentalists in the Eastern States would raise such a howl that the + whole country would be horrified!" + </p> + <p> + Of course, in these "piping times of peace" the reader, in the quiet of + his own room, will think that my suggestion was brutal, and without any + palliation; my excuse, however, may be found in General Washington's own + motto: Exitus acta probat. If the suggestion had been acted upon, many an + innocent man and woman would have escaped torture, and many a maiden a + captivity worse than death. + </p> + <p> + As a specimen of Satanta's oratory, I offer the following, to show the + hypocrisy of the subtle old villain, and his power over the minds of too + sensitive auditors. Once Congress sent out to the central plains a + commission from Washington to inquire into the causes of the continual + warfare raging with the savages on the Kansas border; to learn what the + grievances of the Indians were; and to find some remedy for the wholesale + slaughter of men, women, and children along the line of the Old Trail. + </p> + <p> + Satanta was sent for by the commission as the leading spirit of the + formidable Kiowa nation. When he entered the building at Fort Dodge in + which daily sessions were held, he was told by the president to speak his + mind without any reservation; to withhold nothing, but to truthfully + relate what his tribe had to complain of on the part of the whites. The + old rascal grew very pathetic as he warmed up to his subject. He declared + that he had no desire to kill the white settlers or emigrants crossing the + plains, but that those who came and lived on the land of his tribe + ruthlessly slaughtered the buffalo, allowing their carcasses to rot on the + prairie; killing them merely for the amusement it afforded them, while the + Indian only killed when necessity demanded. He also stated that the white + hunters set out fires, destroying the grass, and causing the tribe's + horses to starve to death as well as the buffalo; that they cut down and + otherwise destroyed the timber on the margins of the streams, making large + fires of it, while the Indian was satisfied to cook his food with a few + dry and dead limbs. "Only the other day," said he, "I picked up a little + switch on the Trail, and it made my heart bleed to think that so small a + green branch, ruthlessly torn out of the ground and thoughtlessly + destroyed by some white man, would in time have grown into a stately tree + for the use and benefit of my children and grandchildren." + </p> + <p> + After the pow-wow had ended, and Satanta had got a few drinks of red + liquor into him, his real, savage nature asserted itself, and he said to + the interpreter at the settler's store: "Now didn't I give it to those + white men who came from the Great Father? Didn't I do it in fine style? + Why, I drew tears from their eyes! The switch I saw on the Trail made my + heart glad instead of sad; for I new there was a tenderfoot ahead of me, + because an old plainsman or hunter would never have carried anything but a + good quirt or a pair of spurs. So I said to my warriors, 'Come on, boys; + we've got him!' and when we came in sight, after we had followed him + closely on the dead run, he threw away his rifle and held tightly on to + his hat for fear he should lose it!" + </p> + <p> + Another time when Satanta had remained at Fort Dodge for a very long + period and had worn out his welcome, so that no one would give him + anything to drink, he went to the quarters of his old friend, Bill + Bennett, the overland stage agent, and begged him to give him some liquor. + Bill was mixing a bottle of medicine to drench a sick mule. The moment he + set the bottle down to do something else, Satanta seized it off the ground + and drank most of the liquid before quitting. Of course, it made the old + savage dreadfully sick as well as angry. He then started for a certain + officer's quarters and again begged for something to cure him of the + effects of the former dose; the officer refused, but Satanta persisted in + his importunities; he would not leave without it. After a while, the + officer went to a closet and took a swallow of the most nauseating + medicine, placing the bottle back on its shelf. Satanta watched his + chance, and, as soon as the officer left the room, he snatched the bottle + out of the closet and drank its contents without stopping to breathe. It + was, of course, a worse dose than the horse-medicine. The next day, very + early in the morning, he assembled a number of his warriors, crossed the + Arkansas, and went south to his village. Before leaving, however, he burnt + all of the government contractor's hay on the bank of the river opposite + the post. He then continued on to Crooked Creek, where he murdered three + wood-choppers, all of which, he said afterward, he did in revenge for the + attempt to poison him at Fort Dodge. + </p> + <p> + At the Comanche agency, where several of the government agents were + assembled to have a talk with chiefs of the various plains tribes, Satanta + said in his address: "I would willingly take hold of that part of the + white man's road which is represented by the breech-loading rifles; but I + don't like the corn rations—they make my teeth hurt!" + </p> + <p> + Big Tree was another Kiowa chief. He was the ally and close friend of + Satanta, and one of the most daring and active of his warriors. The + sagacity and bravery of these two savages would have been a credit to that + of the most famous warriors of the old French and Indian Wars. Both were + at last taken, tried, and sent to the Texas penitentiary for life. Satanta + was eventually pardoned; but before he was made aware of the efforts that + were being taken for his release, he attempted to escape, and, in jumping + from a window, fell and broke his neck. His pardon arrived the next + morning. Big Tree, through the work of the sentimentalists of Washington, + was set free and sent to the Kiowa Reservation—near Fort Sill in the + Indian Territory. + </p> + <p> + The next most audacious and terrible scourge of the plains was + "Ta-ne-on-koe" (Kicking Bird). He was a great warrior of the Kiowas, and + was the chief actor in some of the bloodiest raids on the Kansas frontier + in the history of its troublous times. + </p> + <p> + One of his captures was that of a Miss Morgan and Mrs. White. They were + finally rescued from the savages by General Custer, under the following + circumstances: Custer, who was advancing with his column of invincible + cavalrymen—the famous Seventh United States—in search of the + two unfortunate women, had arrived near the head waters of one of the + tributaries of the Washita, and, with only his guide and interpreter, was + far in advance of the column, when, on reaching the summit of an isolated + bluff, they suddenly saw a village of the Kiowas, which turned out to be + that of Kicking Bird, whose handsome lodge was easily distinguishable from + the rest. Without waiting for his command, the general and his guide rode + boldly to the lodge of the great chief, and both dismounted, holding + cocked revolvers in their hands; Custer presented his at Kicking Bird's + head. In the meantime, Custer's column of troopers, whom the Kiowas had + good reason to remember for their bravery in many a hard-fought battle, + came in full view of the astonished village. This threw the startled + savages into the utmost consternation, but the warriors were held in check + by signs from Kicking Bird. As the cavalry drew nearer, General Custer + demanded the immediate release of the white women. Their presence in the + village was at first denied by the lying chief, and not until he had been + led to the limb of a huge cottonwood tree near the lodge, with a rope + around his neck, did he acknowledge that he held the women and consent to + give them up. + </p> + <p> + This well-known warrior, with a foreknowledge not usually found in the + savage mind, seeing the beginning of the end of Indian sovereignty on the + plains, voluntarily came in and surrendered himself to the authorities, + and stayed on the reservation near Fort Sill. + </p> + <p> + In June, 1867, a year before the breaking out of the great Indian war on + the central plains, the whole tribe of Kiowas, led by him, assembled at + Fort Larned. He was the cynosure of all eyes, as he was without question + one of the noblest-looking savages ever seen on the plains. On that + occasion he wore the full uniform of a major-general of the United States + army. He was as correctly moulded as a statue when on horseback, and when + mounted on his magnificent charger the morning he rode out with General + Hancock to visit the immense Indian camp a few miles above the fort on + Pawnee Fork, it would have been a difficult task to have determined which + was the finer-looking man. + </p> + <p> + After Kicking Bird had abandoned his wicked career, he was regarded by + every army officer with whom he had a personal acquaintance as a + remarkably good Indian; for he really made the most strenuous efforts to + initiate his tribe into the idea that it was best for it to follow the + white man's road. He argued with them that the time was very near when + there would no longer be any region where the Indians could live as they + had been doing, depending on the buffalo and other game for the sustenance + of their families; they must adapt themselves to the methods of their + conquerors. + </p> + <p> + In July, 1869, he became greatly offended with the government for its + enforced removal of his tribe from its natural and hereditary + hunting-grounds into the reservation allotted to it. At that time many of + his warriors, together with the Comanches, made a raid on the defenceless + settlements of the northern border of Texas, in which the savages were + disastrously defeated, losing a large number of their most beloved + warriors. On the return of the unsuccessful expedition, a great council + was held, consisting of all the chiefs and head men of the two tribes + which had suffered so terribly in the awful fight, to consider the best + means of avenging the loss of so many braves and friends. Kicking Bird was + summoned before that council and condemned as a coward; they called him a + squaw, because he had refused to go with the warriors of the combined + tribes on the raid into Texas. + </p> + <p> + He told a friend of mine some time afterward that he had intended never + again to go against the whites; but the emergency of the case, and his + severe condemnation by the council, demanded that he should do something + to re-establish himself in the good graces of his tribe. He then made one + of the most destructive raids into Texas that ever occurred in the history + of its border warfare, which successfully restored him to the respect of + his warriors. + </p> + <p> + In that raid Kicking Bird carried off vast herds of horses and a large + number of scalps. Although his tribe fairly worshipped him, he was not at + all satisfied with himself. He could look into the future as well as any + one, and from that time on to his tragic death he laboured most zealously + and earnestly in connection with the Indian agents to bring his people to + live on the reservation which the government had established for them in + the Territory. + </p> + <p> + At the inauguration of the so-called "Quaker Policy" by President Grant, + that sect was largely intrusted with the management of Indian affairs, + particularly in the selection of agents for the various tribes. A Mr. + Tatham was appointed agent for the Kiowas in 1869. He at once gained the + confidence of Kicking Bird, who became very valuable to him as an + assistant in controlling the savages. It was through that chief's + influence that Thomas Batty, another Quaker, was allowed to take up his + residence with the tribe, the first white man ever accorded that + privilege. Batty was permitted to erect three tents, which were staked + together, converting them into an ample schoolhouse. In that crude, + temporary structure he taught the Kiowa youth the rudiments of an + education. This very successful innovation shows how earnest the former + dreaded savage was in his efforts to promote the welfare of his people, by + trying to induce them to "take the white man's road." + </p> + <p> + Batty succeeded admirably for a year in his office of teacher, the chief + all the time nobly withstanding the taunts and jeers of his warriors and + their threats of taking his life, for daring to allow a white man within + the sacred precincts of their village—a thing unparalleled in the + annals of the tribe. + </p> + <p> + At last trouble came; the dissatisfied members of the tribe, the ambitious + and restless young men, eager for renown, made another unsuccessful raid + into Texas. The result was that they lost nearly the whole of the band, + among which was the favourite son of Lone Wolf, a noted chief.<a + href="#linknote-34" name="linknoteref-34" id="linknoteref-34"><small>34</small></a> + After the death of his son, he declared that he must and would have the + scalp of a white man in revenge for the untimely taking off of the young + warrior. Of course, the most available white man at this juncture was + Batty, the Quaker teacher, and he was chosen by Lone Wolf as the victim of + savage revenge. Here the noble instincts of Kicking Bird developed + themselves. He very plainly told Lone Wolf, who was constantly threatening + and thirsting for blood, that he could not kill Batty until he first + killed him and all his band. But Lone Wolf had fully determined to have + the hair of the innocent Quaker; so Kicking Bird, to avert any collision + between the two bands of Indians, kidnapped Batty and ran him off to the + agency, arriving at Fort Sill about an hour before Lone Wolf's band of + avengers overtook them, and thus the Quaker teacher was saved. + </p> + <p> + One day, long after these occurrences, a friend of mine was in the + sutler's store at Fort Sill. In there was a stranger talking to Mr. Fox, + the agent of the Indians. Soon Kicking Bird entered the establishment, and + the stranger asked Mr. Fox who that fine-looking Indian was. He was told, + and then he begged the agent to say to him that he would like to have a + talk with him; for he it was who led that famous raid into Texas. "I never + saw better generalship in the field in all my experience. He had three + horses killed under him. I was the surgeon of the rangers and was, of + course, in the fight."<a href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" + id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a> + </p> + <p> + When Kicking Bird was told that the Texas doctor desired to talk with him, + he replied with great dignity that he did not want to revive those + troublous times. "Tell him, though," said Kicking Bird, "that was my last + raid against the whites; that I am a changed man." + </p> + <p> + The President of the United States sent for Kicking Bird to come to + Washington, and to bring with him such other influential Indians as he + thought might aid in inducing the Kiowas to cease their continual raiding + on the border of Texas. + </p> + <p> + In due time Kicking Bird left for the capital, taking with him Lone Wolf, + Big Bow, and Sun Boy of the Kiowas, together with several of the head men + of the Comanches. When the deputation of savages arrived in Washington, it + was received at the presidential mansion by the chief magistrate himself. + So much more attention was given to Kicking Bird than to the others, that + they became very jealous, particularly when the President announced to + them the appointment of Kicking Bird as the head chief of the tribe.<a + href="#linknote-36" name="linknoteref-36" id="linknoteref-36"><small>36</small></a> + But Lone Wolf would never recognize his authority, constantly urging the + young men to raid the settlements. Lone Wolf was a genuine savage, without + one redeeming trait, and his hatred of the white race was unparalleled in + its intensity. He was never known to smile. No other Indian can show such + a record of horrible massacres as he is responsible for. His orders were + rigidly obeyed, for he brooked no disobedience on the part of his + warriors. + </p> + <p> + In the summer of 1876, a party of English gentlemen left Fort Harker for a + buffalo hunt. They soon exhausted all their rations and started a + four-mule team back to the post for more. Some of Lone Wolf's band of + cut-throats came across the unfortunate teamster, killed him, and ran off + the team. After the occurrence, Kicking Bird came into the agency at Fort + Sill and told Mr. Haworth, the agent, that he had given his word to the + Great Father at Washington he would do all he could to bring in those + Indians who had been raiding by order of Lone Wolf, particularly the two + who had killed the Englishmen's driver. + </p> + <p> + He succeeded in bringing in twelve Indians in all, among them the + murderers of the driver. They, with Lone Wolf and Satank, were sent to the + Dry Tortugas for life. The morning they started on their journey Satank + talked very feelingly to Kicking Bird, with tears in his eyes. He said + that they might look for his bones along the road, for he would never go + to Florida. The savages were loaded into government wagons. Satank was + inside of one with a soldier on each side of him, their legs hanging + outside. Somehow the crafty villain managed to slip the handcuffs off his + wrists, at the same instant seizing the rifle of one of his guards, and + then shoved the two men out with his feet. He tried to work the lever of + the rifle, but could not move it, and one of the soldiers, coming around + the wagon to where he was still trying to get the gun so as he could use + it, shot him down, and then threw his body on the Trail. Thus Satank made + good his vow that he would never be taken to Florida. He met his death + only a mile from the post. + </p> + <p> + After the departure of the condemned savages, the feeling in the tribe + against Kicking Bird increased to an alarming extent. Several times the + most incensed warriors tried to kill him by shooting at him from an + ambush. After he became fully aware that his life was in danger, he never + left his lodge without his carbine. He was as brave as a lion, fearing + none of the members of Lone Wolf's band; but he often said it was only a + question of a short time when he would be gotten rid of; he did not allow + the matter, however, to worry him in the least, saying that he was + conscious he had done his duty by his tribe and the Great Father. + </p> + <p> + In a bend of Cash Creek, about half a mile below the mill, about half a + dozen of the Kiowas had their lodges, that of their chief being among + them. At ten o'clock one Monday in June, 1876, Mr. Haworth, the agent, + came in haste to the shops, called the master mechanic, Mr. Wykes, out, + told him to jump into the carriage quickly; that Kicking Bird was dead. + </p> + <p> + When they arrived at the home of the great chief, sure enough he was dead, + and some of the women were engaged in folding his body in robes. Other + squaws were cutting themselves in a terrible manner, as is their custom + when a relative dies, and were also breaking everything breakable about + the lodge. Kicking Bird had always been scrupulously clean and neat in the + care of his home; it was adorned with the most beautifully dressed buffalo + robes and the finest furs, while the floor was covered with matting. + </p> + <p> + It seems that Kicking Bird, after visiting Mr. Wykes that morning, went + immediately to his lodge, and sat down to eat something, but just as he + had finished a cup of coffee, he fell over, dead. He had in his service a + Mexican woman, and she had been bribed to poison him. + </p> + <p> + An expensive coffin was made at the agency for his remains, fashioned out + of the finest black walnut to be found in the country where that timber + grows to such a luxuriant extent. It was eight feet long and four feet + deep, but even then it did not hold one-half of his effects, which were, + according to the savage custom, interred with his body. + </p> + <p> + The cries and lamentations of the warriors and women of his band were + heartrending; such a manifestation of grief was never before witnessed at + the agency. A handsome fence was erected around his grave, in the cemetery + at Fort Sill, and the government ordered a beautiful marble monument to be + raised over it; but I do not know whether it was ever done. + </p> + <p> + Kicking Bird was only forty years old at the time of his sudden taking + off, and was very wealthy for an Indian. He knew the uses of money and was + a careful saver of it. A great roll of greenbacks was placed in his + coffin, and that fact having leaked out, it was rumoured that his grave + was robbed; but the story may not have been true. + </p> + <p> + One of the greatest terrors of the Old Santa Fe Trail was the half-breed + Indian desperado Charles Bent. His mother was a Cheyenne squaw, and his + father the famous trader, Colonel Bent. He was born at the base of the + Rocky Mountains, and at a very early age placed in one of the best schools + that St. Louis afforded. His venerable sire, with only a limited education + himself, was determined that his boy should profit by the culture and + refinement of civilization, so he was not allowed to return to his + mountain home at Bent's Fort, and the savage conditions under which he was + born, until he had attained his majority. He then spoke no language but + English. His mother died while he was absent at school, and his father + continued to live at the old fort, where Charles, after he had reached the + age of twenty-one, joined him. + </p> + <p> + Some Washington sentimentalist, philosophizing on the Indian character, + his knowledge being based on Cooper's novels probably, has said: + "Civilization has very marked effects upon an Indian. If he once learns to + speak English, he will soon forget all his native cunning and pride of + race." Let us see how this theory worked with Charley Bent. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the educated half-breed set his foot on his native heath he + readily found enough ambitious young bucks of his own age who were willing + to look on him as their leader. They loved him, too, if such a thing were + possible, as Fra Diavolo was loved by his wild followers. His band was + known as the "Dog-Soldiers"; a sort of a semi-military organization, + consisting of the most daring, blood-thirsty young men of the tribe; and + sometimes "squaw-men," that is, renegade white men married to squaws, + attached themselves to his command of cut-throats. + </p> + <p> + At the head of this collection of the worst savages, hardly ever numbering + over a hundred, Charles Bent robbed ranches, attacked wagon-trains, + overland coaches, and army caravans. He stole and murdered + indiscriminately. The history of his bloody work will never be wholly + revealed, for dead men have no tongues. + </p> + <p> + He would visit all alone, in the guise of plainsman, hunter, or cattleman, + the emigrant trains crossing the continent, always, however, those which + had only small escorts or none at all. Feigning hunger, while his needs + were being kindly furnished, he would glance around him to learn what kind + of an outfit it was; its value, its destination, and how well guarded. + Then he would take his leave with many thanks, rejoin his band, and with + it dash down on the train and kill every human being unfortunate enough + not to have escaped before he arrived. + </p> + <p> + He was indefatigable in his efforts to kill off the whole corps of army + scouts. He would pass himself off as a fellow-scout, as a deserter from + some military post, or as an Indian trader, for he was a wonderful actor, + and would have achieved histrionic honours had he chosen the stage as a + profession. + </p> + <p> + He would always time his actions so as to be found apparently asleep by a + little camp-fire on the bank of Pawnee Fork, Crooked, Mulberry, or Walnut + creeks, all of which streams intercepted the trails running north and + south between the several military posts during the Indian war, when he + would seem delighted and astonished, or else simulate suspicion. Then he + would either murder the unsuspecting scout with his own hands, or deliver + him to the red fiends of his band to be tormented. + </p> + <p> + The government offered a reward of five thousand dollars for Bent's + capture, dead or alive. It was reported currently that he was at last + killed in a battle with some deputy United States marshals, and that they + received the reward; but the whole thing was manufactured out of whole + cloth, and if the marshals received the money, Uncle Sam was most + outrageously swindled. + </p> + <p> + The facts are that he died of malarial fever superinduced by a wound + received in a fight with the Kaws, near the mouth of the Walnut and not + far from Fort Zarah. His "Dog-Soldiers" were whipped by the Kaws, and his + band driven off. Bent lingered for some time and died. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. LA GLORIETA. + </h2> + <p> + New Mexico, at the breaking out of the Civil War, was abandoned by the + government at Washington, or at least so overlooked that the charge of + neglect was merited. In the report of the committee on the Conduct of the + War, under date of July 15, 1862, Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel B. S. Roberts + of the regular army, major of the Third Cavalry, who was stationed in the + Territory in 1861, says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It appears to me to be the determination of General Thomas<a + href="#linknote-37" name="linknoteref-37" id="linknoteref-37">37</a> + not to acknowledge the service of the officers who saved + the Territory of New Mexico; and the utter neglect of the + adjutant-general's department for the last year to + communicate in any way with the commanding officer of the + department of New Mexico, or to answer his urgent appeals + for reinforcements, for money and other supplies, in + connection with his repudiation of the services of all the + army there, convinces me that he is not gratified at their + loyalty and their success in saving that Territory to + the Union. +</pre> + <p> + If space could be given to the story of the carefully prepared plans of + the leaders of secession for the conquest of all the territory south of a + line drawn from Maryland directly west to the Pacific coast, in which were + California, Arizona, and New Mexico, it would reveal some startling facts, + and prove beyond question that it was the intention of Jefferson Davis to + precipitate the rebellion a decade before it actually occurred. The basis + of the scheme was to inaugurate a war between Texas—which, when + admitted into the Union, claimed all that part of New Mexico east of the + Rio Grande—and the United States, in which conflict Mississippi and + some of the other Southern States were to become participants. The plan + fell flat, because, in 1851, Mr. Davis failed of a re-election to the + governorship of Mississippi. + </p> + <p> + So confident were many of Mr. Davis' allies in regard to the contemplated + rebellion, that they boasted to their friends of the North, upon leaving + Washington, that when they met again, it would be upon a Southern + battle-field. + </p> + <p> + I have alluded incidentally to what is known as the Texas Santa Fe + Expedition, inaugurated by the President of what was then the republic of + Texas, Mirabeau B. Lamar. It was given out to the world that it was merely + one of commercial interest—to increase the trade between the two + countries; but that it was intended for the conquest of New Mexico, no one + now, in the light of history, doubts. It resulted in disaster, and is a + story well worthy the examination of the student of American politics.<a + href="#linknote-38" name="linknoteref-38" id="linknoteref-38"><small>38</small></a> + </p> + <p> + In 1861 General Twiggs commanded the military department of which Texas + was an important part. It will be remembered that he surrendered to the + Confederate government the troops, the munitions of war, the forts, or + posts as they were properly termed, and everything pertaining to the + United States army under his control. It was the intention of the + Confederacy to use this region as a military base from which to continue + its conquests westward, and capture the various forts in New Mexico. + Particularly they had their eyes upon Fort Union, where there was an + arsenal, which John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, had taken especial care to + have well stocked previously to the act of secession. + </p> + <p> + But the conspirators had reckoned without their host; they imagined the + native Mexicans would eagerly accept their overtures, and readily support + the Southern Confederacy. Mr. Davis and his coadjutors had evidently + forgotten the effect of the Texas Santa Fe Expedition, in 1841, upon the + people of the Province of New Mexico; but the natives themselves had not. + Besides the loyalty of the Mexicans, there was a factor which the + Confederate leaders had failed to consider, which was that the majority of + the American pioneers had come from loyal States. + </p> + <p> + Of course, there were many secessionists both in Colorado and New Mexico + who were watching the progress of rebellion in eager anticipation; and it + is claimed that in Denver a rebel flag was raised—but how true that + is I do not know. + </p> + <p> + John B. Floyd, Secretary of War, was one of the leading spirits of the + Confederacy. A year before the Civil War he placed in command of the + department of New Mexico a North Carolinian, Colonel Loring, who was in + perfect sympathy with his superior, and willing to carry out his + well-defined plans. In 1861 he ordered Colonel G. B. Crittenden on an + expedition against the Apaches. This officer at once tried to induce his + troops to attach themselves to the rebel army in Texas, but he was met + with an indignant refusal by Colonel Roberts and the regular soldiers + under him. The loyal colonel told Crittenden, in the most forcible + language, that he would resist any such attempt on his part, and reported + the action of Colonel Crittenden to the commander of the department at + Santa Fe. Of course, Colonel Loring paid no attention to the complaint of + disloyalty, and then Colonel Roberts conveyed the tidings to the + commanding officers of several military posts in the Territory, whom he + knew were true to the Union, and only one man out of nearly two thousand + regular soldiers renounced his flag. Some of the officers stationed at New + Mexico were of a different mind, and one of them, Major Lynde, commanding + Fort Filmore, surrendered to a detachment of Texans, who paroled the + enlisted men, as they firmly refused to join the rebel forces. + </p> + <p> + Upon the desertion of Colonel Loring to the Southern Confederacy, General + Edward R. S. Canby was assigned to the command of the department; next in + rank was the loyal Roberts. At this perilous juncture in New Mexico, there + were but a thousand regulars all told, but the Territory furnished two + regiments of volunteers, commanded by officers whose names had been famous + on the border for years. Among these was Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, who had + been conspicuous in the suppression of the Mexican insurrection of 1847, + fifteen years before. Kit Carson was lieutenant-colonel; J. F. Chaves, + major; and the most prominent of the line officers Captain Albert H. + Pfeiffer, with a record as an Indian fighter equal to that of Carson. + </p> + <p> + At the same time Colorado was girding on her armour for the impending + conflict. The governor of the prosperous Territory was William Gilpin, an + old army officer, who had spent a large part of his life on the frontier, + and had accompanied Colonel Doniphan, as major of his regiment, across the + plains, on the expedition to New Mexico in 1846. + </p> + <p> + Colonel Gilpin at once responded to the pleadings of New Mexico for help, + by organizing two companies at first, quickly following with a full + regiment. This Colorado regiment was composed of as fine material as any + portion of the United States could furnish. John P. Slough, a war Democrat + and a lawyer, was its colonel. He afterwards became chief justice of New + Mexico, and was brutally murdered in that Territory. + </p> + <p> + John M. Chivington, a strict Methodist and a presiding elder of that + church, was offered the chaplaincy, but firmly declined, and, like many + others who wore the clerical garb, he quickly doffed it and put on the + attire of a soldier; so he was made major, and his record as a fighter was + equal to the best. + </p> + <p> + The commanding general knew well the plans of the rebels as to their + intended occupation of New Mexico, and, notwithstanding the weakness of + his force, determined to frustrate them if within the limits of + possibility. To that end he concentrated his little army, comprising a + thousand regular soldiers, the two regiments of New Mexico volunteers, two + companies of Colorado troops, and a portion of the territorial militia, at + Fort Craig, on the Rio Grande, to await the approach of the Confederate + troops, under the command of General H. H. Sibley, an old regular army + officer, a native of Louisiana, and the inventor of the comfortable tent + named after him. + </p> + <p> + Sibley's brigade comprised some three thousand men, the majority of them + Texans, and he expected that many more would flock to his standard as he + moved northward. On the 19th of February, 1862, he crossed the Rio Grande + below Fort Craig, not daring to attack Canby in his intrenched position. + The Union commander, in order to keep the Texas troops from gaining the + high points overlooking the fort, placed portions of the Fifth, Seventh, + and Tenth Regulars, together with Carson's and Pino's volunteers, on the + other side of the river. No collision occurred that day, but the next + afternoon Major Duncan, with his cavalry and Captain M'Rae's light + battery, having been sent across to reinforce the infantry, a heavy + artillery fire was immediately opened upon them by the Texans. The men + under Carson behaved splendidly, but the other volunteer regiments became + a little demoralized, and the general was compelled to call back the force + into the fort. Sibley's force, both men and animals, suffered much from + thirst, the latter stampeding, and many, wandering into our lines, were + caught by the scouts of the Union forces. The next morning early Colonel + Roberts was ordered to proceed about seven miles up the river to keep the + Texans away from the water at a point where it was alone accessible, on + account of the steepness of the banks everywhere else. + </p> + <p> + The gallant Roberts, on arriving at the ford, planted a battery there, and + at once opened fire. This was the battle of Valverde, the details of + which, however, do not belong to this book, having been only incidentally + referred to in order to lead the reader intelligently up to that of La + Glorieta, Apache Canyon, or Pigeon's Ranch, as it is indifferently called. + </p> + <p> + Valverde was lost to the Union troops, but never did men fight more + valiantly, with the exception of a few who did not act the part of the + true soldier. The brave M'Rae mounted one of the guns of his battery, + choosing to die rather than surrender. + </p> + <p> + General Sibley, after his doubtful victory at Valverde, continued on to + Albuquerque and Santa Fe. The old city offered no resistance to his + occupation; in fact, some of the most influential Mexicans were pleased, + their leaning being strongly toward the Southern Confederacy; but the + common people were as loyal to the Union as those of any of the Northern + States, a feeling intensified by their hatred for the Texans on account of + the expedition of conquest in 1841, twenty-one years before. They + contributed of their means to aid the United States troops, but have never + received proper credit for their action in those days of trouble in the + neglected Territory. + </p> + <p> + The Confederate general was disappointed at the way in which affairs were + going, for he had based great hopes upon the defection of the native + residents; but he determined to march forward to Fort Union, where his + friend Floyd had placed such stores as were likely to be needed in the + campaign which he had designed. + </p> + <p> + From Santa Fe to Fort Union, where the arsenal was located, the road runs + through the deep, rocky gorge known as Apache Canyon. It is one of the + wildest spots in the mountains, the walls on each side rising from one to + two thousand feet above the Trail, which is within the range of ordinary + cannon from every point, and in many places of point-blank rifle-shot. + Granite rocks and sands abound, and the hills are covered with long-leafed + pine. It is a gateway which, in the hands of a skilful engineer and one + hundred resolute men, can be made perfectly impregnable. + </p> + <p> + The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway passes directly through this + picturesque chasm, every foot of which is classic ground, and in the + season of the mountain freshets constant care is needed to keep its + bridges in place. + </p> + <p> + At its eastern entrance is a large residence, known as Pigeon's Ranch, + from which the battle to be described derives its name, though, as stated, + it is also known as that of Apache Canyon, and La Glorieta,<a + href="#linknote-39" name="linknoteref-39" id="linknoteref-39"><small>39</small></a> + the latter, perhaps, the most classical, from the range of mountains + enclosing the rent in the mighty hills. + </p> + <p> + The following detailed account of this battle I have taken from the <i>History + of Colorado</i>,<a href="#linknote-40" name="linknoteref-40" + id="linknoteref-40"><small>40</small></a> an admirable work: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The sympathizers with and abettors of the Southern + Confederacy inaugurated their plans by posting handbills + in all conspicuous places between Denver and the + mining-camps, designating certain localities where the + highest prices would be paid for arms of every description, + and for powder, lead, shot, and percussion caps. + Simultaneously, a small force was collected and put under + discipline to co-operate with parties expected from Arkansas + and Texas who were to take possession, first of Colorado, + and subsequently of New Mexico, anticipating the easy + capture of the Federal troops and stores located there. + Being apprised of the movement, the governor immediately + decided to enlist a full regiment of volunteers. + John P. Slough was appointed colonel, Samuel F. Tappan + lieutenant-colonel, and John J. M. Chivington major. + + Without railroads or telegraphs nearer than the Missouri + River, and wholly dependent upon the overland mail coach + for communication with the States and the authorities at + Washington, news was at least a week old when received. + Thus the troops passed the time in a condition of doubt + and extreme anxiety, until the 6th of January, 1862, when + information arrived that an invading force under General + H. H. Sibley, from San Antonio, Texas, was approaching + the southern border of New Mexico, and had already captured + Forts Fillmore and Bliss, making prisoners of their + garrisons without firing a gun, and securing all their + stock and supplies. + + Immediately upon receipt of this intelligence, efforts + were made to obtain the consent of, or orders from, General + Hunter, commanding the department at Fort Leavenworth, + Kansas, for the regiment to go to the relief of General + Canby, then in command of the department of New Mexico. + On the 20th of February, orders came from General Hunter, + directing Colonel Slough and the First Regiment of Colorado + Volunteers to proceed with all possible despatch to + Fort Union, or Santa Fe, New Mexico, and report to General + Canby for service. + + Two days thereafter, the command marched out of Camp Weld + two miles up the Platte River, and in due time encamped + at Pueblo, on the Arkansas River. At this point further + advices were received from Canby, stating that he had + encountered the enemy at Valverde, ten miles north of + Fort Craig, but, owing to the inefficiency of the newly + raised New Mexican volunteers, was compelled to retire. + The Texans under Sibley marched on up the Rio Grande, + levying tribute upon the inhabitants for their support. + The Colorado troops were urged to the greatest possible + haste in reaching Fort Union, where they were to unite + with such regular troops as could be concentrated at that + post, and thus aid in saving the fort and its supplies + from falling into Confederate hands. Early on the + following morning the order was given to proceed to Union + by forced marches, and it is doubtful if the same number of + men ever marched a like distance in the same length of time. + + When the summit of Raton Pass was reached, another courier + from Canby met the command, who informed Colonel Slough + that the Texans had already captured Albuquerque and + Santa Fe with all the troops stationed at those places, + together with the supplies stored there, and that they + were then marching on Fort Union. + + Arriving at Red River about sundown, the regiment was + drawn up in line and this information imparted to the men. + The request was then made for all who were willing to + undertake a forced march at night to step two paces to + the front, when every man advanced to the new alignment. + After a hasty supper the march was resumed, and at sunrise + the next morning they reached Maxwell's Ranch on the + Cimarron, having made sixty-four miles in less than + twenty-four hours. At ten o'clock on the second night + thereafter, the command entered Fort Union. It was there + discovered that Colonel Paul, in charge of the post, had + mined the fort, giving orders for the removal of the women + and children, and was preparing to blow up all the supplies + and march to Fort Garland or some other post to the + northward, on the first approach of the Confederates. + + The troops remained at Union from the 13th to the 22d of + March, when by order of Colonel Slough they proceeded in + the direction of Santa Fe. The command consisted of + the First Colorado Volunteers; two Light Batteries, + one commanded by Captain Ritter and the other by Captain + Claflin; Ford's Company of Colorado Volunteers unattached; + two companies of the Fifth Regular Infantry; and two + companies of the Seventh United States Cavalry. + + The force encamped at Bernal Springs, where Colonel Slough + determined to organize a detachment to enter Santa Fe by + night with the view of surprising the enemy, spiking his + guns, and after doing what other damage could be accomplished + without bringing on a general action, falling back on the + main body. The detachment chosen comprised sixty men each + from Companies A, D, and E of the Colorado regiment, with + Company F of the same mounted, and thirty-seven men each + from the companies of Captains Ford and Howland, and of + the Seventh Cavalry, the whole commanded by Major Chivington. + + At sundown on the 25th of March it reached Kosloskie's Ranch, + where Major Chivington was informed that the enemy's pickets + were in the vicinity. He went into camp at once, and about + nine o'clock of the same evening sent out Lieutenant Nelson + of the First Colorado with thirty men of Company F, who + captured the Texan pickets while they were engaged in a game + of cards at Pigeon's Ranch, and before daylight on the + morning of the 26th, reported at camp with his prisoners. + After breakfast, the major, being apprised of the enemy's + whereabouts, proceeded cautiously, keeping his advance + guard well to the front. While passing near the summit + of the hill, the officer in command of the advance met + the Confederate advance, consisting of a first lieutenant + and thirty men, captured them without firing a gun, and + returning met the main body and turned them over to the + commanding officer. The Confederate lieutenant declared + that they had received no intimation of the advance from + Fort Union, but themselves expected to be there four days + later. + + Descending Apache Canyon for the distance of half a mile, + Chivington's force observed the approaching Texans, about + six hundred strong, with three pieces of artillery, who, + on discovering the Federals, halted, formed line and battery, + and opened fire. + + Chivington drew up his cavalry as a reserve under cover, + deployed Company D under Captain Downing to the right, + and Companies A and E under Captains Wynkoop and Anthony + to the left, directing them to ascend the mountain-side + until they were above the elevation of the enemy's artillery + and thus flank him, at the same time directing Captain + Howland, he being the ranking cavalry officer, to closely + observe the enemy, and when he retreated, without further + orders to charge with the cavalry. This disposition of + the troops proved wise and successful. The Texans soon + broke battery and retreated down the canyon a mile or more, + but from some cause Captain Howland failed to charge as + ordered, which enabled the Confederates to take up a new + and strong position, where they formed battery, threw their + supports well up the sides of the mountain, and again + opened fire. + + Chivington dismounted Captains Howland and Lord with their + regulars, leaving their horses in charge of every fourth + man, and ordered them to join Captain Downing on the left, + taking orders from him. Our skirmishers advanced, and, + flanking the enemy's supports, drove them pell-mell down + the mountain-side, when Captain Samuel Cook, with Company F, + First Colorado, having been signalled by the major, made + as gallant and successful a charge through the canyon, + through the ranks of the Confederates and back, as was + ever performed. Meanwhile, our infantry advanced rapidly; + when the enemy commenced his retreat a second time, they + were well ahead of him on the mountain-sides and poured + a galling fire into him, which thoroughly demoralized and + broke him up, compelling the entire body to seek shelter + among the rocks down the canyon and in some cabins that + stood by the wayside. + + After an hour spent in collecting the prisoners, and + caring for the wounded, both Federal and Confederate, + the latter having left in killed, wounded, and prisoners + a number equal to our whole force in the field, the first + baptism by fire of our volunteers terminated. The victory + was decided and complete. Night intervening, and there + being no water in the canyon, the little command fell back + to Pigeon's Ranch, whence a courier was despatched to + Colonel Slough, advising him of the engagement and its + result, and requesting him to bring forward the main + command as rapidly as possible, as the enemy with all his + forces had moved from Santa Fe toward Fort Union. + + After interring the dead and making a comfortable hospital + for the wounded, on the afternoon of the 27th Chivington + fell back to the Pecos River at Kosloskie's Ranch and + encamped. On receiving the news from Apache Canyon, + Colonel Slough put his forces in motion, and at eleven + o'clock at night of the 27th joined Chivington at Kosloskie's. + + At daybreak on the 28th, the assembly was sounded, and + the entire command resumed its march. Five miles out + from their encampment Major Chivington, in command of + a detachment composed of Companies A, B, H, and E of the + First Colorado, and Captain Ford's Company unattached, + with Captain Lewis' Company of the Fifth Regular Infantry, + was ordered to take the Galisteo road, and by a detour + through the mountains to gain the enemy's rear, if possible, + at the west end of Apache Canyon, while Slough advanced + slowly with the main body to gain his front about the + same time; thus devising an attack in front and rear. + + About ten o'clock, while making his way through the scrub + pine and cedar brush in the mountains, Major Chivington + and his command heard cannonading to their right, and + were thereby apprised that Colonel Slough and his men + had met the enemy. About twelve o'clock he arrived with + his men on the summit of the mountain which overlooked + the enemy's supply wagons, which had been left in the + charge of a strong guard with one piece of artillery mounted + on an elevation commanding the camp and mouth of the canyon. + With great difficulty Chivington descended the precipitous + mountain, charged, took, and spiked the gun, ran together + the enemy's supply wagons of commissary, quartermaster, + and ordnance stores, set them on fire, blew and burnt + them up, bayoneted his mules in corral, took the guard + prisoners and reascended the mountain, where about dark + he was met by Lieutenant Cobb, aide-de-camp on Colonel + Slough's staff, with the information that Slough and his + men had been defeated and had fallen back to Kosloskie's. + Upon the supposition that this information was correct, + Chivington, under the guidance of a French Catholic priest, + in the intensest darkness, with great difficulty made + his way with his command through the mountains without + a road or trail, and joined Colonel Slough about midnight. + + Meanwhile, after Chivington and his detachment had left + in the morning, Colonel Slough with the main body proceeded + up the canyon, and arriving at Pigeon's Ranch, gave orders + for the troops to stack arms in the road and supply their + canteens with water, as that would be the last opportunity + before reaching the further end of Apache Canyon. + While thus supplying themselves with water and visiting + the wounded in the hospital at Pigeon's Ranch, being + entirely off their guard, they were suddenly startled by + a courier from the advance column dashing down the road + at full speed and informing them that the enemy was close + at hand. Orders were immediately given to fall in and + take arms, but before the order could be obeyed the enemy + had formed battery and commenced shelling them. + They formed as quickly as possible, the colonel ordering + Captain Downing with Company D, First Colorado Volunteers, + to advance on the left, and Captain Kerber with Company I + First Colorado, to advance on the right. In the meantime + Ritter and Claflin opened a return fire on the enemy with + their batteries. Captain Downing advanced and fought + desperately, meeting a largely superior force in point + of numbers, until he was almost overpowered and surrounded; + when, happily, Captain Wilder of Company G of the First + Colorado, with a detachment of his command, came to his + relief, and extricated him and that portion of his Company + not already slaughtered. While on the opposite side, + the right, Company I had advanced into an open space, + feeling the enemy, and ambitious of capturing his battery, + when they were surprised by a detachment which was concealed + in an arroya, and which, when Kerber and his men were + within forty feet of it, opened a galling fire upon them. + Kerber lost heavily; Lieutenant Baker, being wounded, + fell back. In the meantime the enemy masked, and made + five successive charges on our batteries, determined to + capture them as they had captured Canby's at Valverde. + At one time they were within forty yards of Slough's + batteries, their slouch hats drawn down over their faces, + and rushing on with deafening yells. It seemed inevitable + that they would make the capture, when Captain Claflin + gave the order to cease firing, and Captain Samuel Robbins + with his company, K of the First Colorado, arose from the + ground like ghosts, delivering a galling fire, charged + bayonets, and on the double-quick put the rebels to flight. + + During the whole of this time the cavalry, under Captain + Howland, were held in reserve, never moving except to + fall back and keep out of danger, with the exception of + Captain Cook's men, who dismounted and fought as infantry. + From the opening of the battle to its close the odds were + against Colonel Slough and his forces; the enemy being + greatly superior in numbers, with a better armament of + artillery and equally well armed otherwise. But every inch + of ground was stubbornly contested. In no instance did + Slough's forces fall back until they were in danger of + being flanked and surrounded, and for nine hours, without + rest or refreshment, the battle raged incessantly. + At one time Claflin gave orders to double-shot his guns, + they being nothing but little brass howitzers, and he + counted, "One, two, three, four," until one of his own + carriages capsized and fell down into the gulch; from which + place Captain Samuel Robbins and his company, K, extricated + it and saved it from falling into the enemy's hands. + + Having been compelled to give ground all day, Colonel Slough, + between five and six o'clock in the afternoon, issued + orders to retreat. About the same time General Sibley + received information from the rear of the destruction of + his supply trains, and ordered a flag of truce to be sent + to Colonel Slough, which did not reach him, however, until + he arrived at Kosloskie's. A truce was entered into until + nine o'clock the next morning, which was afterward extended + to twenty-four hours, and under which Sibley with his + demoralized forces fell back to Santa Fe, laying that town + under tribute to supply his forces. + + The 29th was spent in burying the dead, as well as those + of the Confederates which they left on the field, and + caring for the wounded. Orders were received from General + Canby directing Colonel Slough to fall back to Fort Union, + which so incensed him that while obeying the order he + forwarded his resignation, and soon after left the command. +</pre> + <p> + Thus ended the battle of La Glorieta. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII.<a href="#linknote-41" name="linknoteref-41" + id="linknoteref-41"><small>41</small></a> THE BUFFALO. + </h2> + <p> + The ancient range of the buffalo, according to history and tradition, once + extended from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mountains, embracing all that + magnificent portion of North America known as the Mississippi valley; from + the frozen lakes above to the "Tierras Calientes" of Mexico, far to the + south. + </p> + <p> + It seems impossible, especially to those who have seen them, as numerous, + apparently, as the sands of the seashore, feeding on the illimitable + natural pastures of the great plains, that the buffalo should have become + almost extinct. + </p> + <p> + When I look back only twenty-five years, and recall the fact that they + roamed in immense numbers even then, as far east as Fort Harker, in + Central Kansas, a little more than two hundred miles from the Missouri + River, I ask myself, "Have they all disappeared?" + </p> + <p> + An idea may be formed of how many buffalo were killed from 1868 to 1881, a + period of only thirteen years, during which time they were + indiscriminately slaughtered for their hides. In Kansas alone there was + paid out, between the dates specified, two million five hundred thousand + dollars for their bones gathered on the prairies, to be utilized by the + various carbon works of the country, principally in St. Louis. It required + about one hundred carcasses to make one ton of bones, the price paid + averaging eight dollars a ton; so the above-quoted enormous sum + represented the skeletons of over thirty-one millions of buffalo.<a + href="#linknote-42" name="linknoteref-42" id="linknoteref-42"><small>42</small></a> + These figures may appear preposterous to readers not familiar with the + great plains a third of a century ago; but to those who have seen the + prairie black from horizon to horizon with the shaggy monsters, they are + not so. In the autumn of 1868 I rode with Generals Sheridan, Custer, + Sully, and others, for three consecutive days, through one continuous + herd, which must have contained millions. In the spring of 1869 the train + on the Kansas Pacific Railroad was delayed at a point between Forts Harker + and Hays, from nine o'clock in the morning until five in the afternoon, in + consequence of the passage of an immense herd of buffalo across the track. + On each side of us, and to the west as far as we could see, our vision was + only limited by the extended horizon of the flat prairie, and the whole + vast area was black with the surging mass of affrighted buffaloes as they + rushed onward to the south. + </p> + <p> + In 1868 the Union Pacific Railroad and its branch in Kansas was nearly + completed across the plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, the + western limit of the buffalo range, and that year witnessed the beginning + of the wholesale and wanton slaughter of the great ruminants, which ended + only with their practical extinction seventeen years afterward. The causes + of this hecatomb of animals on the great plains were the incursion of + regular hunters into the region, for the hides of the buffalo, and the + crowds of tourists who crossed the continent for the mere pleasure and + novelty of the trip. The latter class heartlessly killed for the + excitement of the new experience as they rode along in the cars at a low + rate of speed, often never touching a particle of the flesh of their + victims, or possessing themselves of a single robe. The former, numbering + hundreds of old frontiersmen, all expert shots, with thousands of novices, + the pioneer settlers on the public domain, just opened under the various + land laws, from beyond the Platte to far south of the Arkansas, within + transporting distance of two railroads, day after day for years made it a + lucrative business to kill for the robes alone, a market for which had + suddenly sprung up all over the country. + </p> + <p> + On either side of the track of the two lines of railroads running through + Kansas and Nebraska, within a relatively short distance and for nearly + their whole length, the most conspicuous objects in those days were the + desiccated carcasses of the noble beasts that had been ruthlessly + slaughtered by the thoughtless and excited passengers on their way across + the continent. On the open prairie, too, miles away from the course of + legitimate travel, in some places one could walk all day on the dead + bodies of the buffaloes killed by the hide-hunters, without stepping off + them to the ground. + </p> + <p> + The best robes, in their relation to thickness of fur and lustre, were + those taken during the winter months, particularly February, at which + period the maximum of density and beauty had been reached. Then, + notwithstanding the sudden and fitful variations of temperature incident + to our mid-continent climate, the old hunters were especially active, and + accepted unusual risks to procure as many of the coveted skins as + possible. A temporary camp would be established under the friendly shelter + of some timbered stream, from which the hunters would radiate every + morning, and return at night after an arduous day's work, to smoke their + pipes and relate their varied adventures around the fire of blazing logs. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes when far away from camp a blizzard would come down from the + north in all its fury without ten minutes' warning, and in a few seconds + the air, full of blinding snow, precluded the possibility of finding their + shelter, an attempt at which would only result in an aimless circular + march on the prairie. On such occasions, to keep from perishing by the + intense cold, they would kill a buffalo, and, taking out its viscera, + creep inside the huge cavity, enough animal heat being retained until the + storm had sufficiently abated for them to proceed with safety to their + camp. + </p> + <p> + Early in March, 1867, a party of my friends, all old buffalo hunters, were + camped in Paradise valley, then a famous rendezvous of the animals they + were after. One day when out on the range stalking, and widely separated + from each other, a terrible blizzard came up. Three of the hunters reached + their camp without much difficulty, but he who was farthest away was + fairly caught in it, and night overtaking him, he was compelled to resort + to the method described in the preceding paragraph. Luckily, he soon came + up with a superannuated bull that had been abandoned by the herd; so he + killed him, took out his viscera and crawled inside the empty carcass, + where he lay comparatively comfortable until morning broke, when the storm + had passed over and the sun shone brightly. But when he attempted to get + out, he found himself a prisoner, the immense ribs of the creature having + frozen together, and locked him up as tightly as if he were in a cell. + Fortunately, his companions, who were searching for him, and firing their + rifles from time to time, heard him yell in response to the discharge of + their pieces, and thus discovered and released him from the peculiar + predicament into which he had fallen. + </p> + <p> + At another time, several years before the acquisition of New Mexico by the + United States, two old trappers were far up on the Arkansas near the + Trail, in the foot-hills hunting buffalo, and they, as is generally the + case, became separated. In an hour or two one of them killed a fat young + cow, and, leaving his rifle on the ground, went up and commenced to skin + her. While busily engaged in his work, he suddenly heard right behind him + a suppressed snort, and looking around he saw to his dismay a monstrous + grizzly ambling along in that animal's characteristic gait, within a few + feet of him. + </p> + <p> + In front, only a few rods away, there happened to be a clump of scrubby + pines, and he incontinently made a break for them, climbing into the + tallest in less time than it takes to tell of it. The bear deliberately + ate a hearty meal off the juicy hams of the cow, so providentially fallen + in his way, and when he had satiated himself, instead of going away, he + quietly stretched himself alongside of the half-devoured carcass, and went + to sleep, keeping one eye open, however, on the movements of the unlucky + hunter whom he had corralled in the tree. In the early evening his partner + came to the spot, and killed the impudent bear, that, being full of tender + buffalo meat, was sluggish and unwary, and thus became an easy victim to + the unerring rifle; when the unwilling prisoner came down from his perch + in the pine, feeling sheepish enough. The last time I saw him he told me + he still had the bear's hide, which he religiously preserved as a memento + of his foolishness in separating himself from his rifle, a thing he has + never been guilty of before or since. + </p> + <p> + Kit Carson, when with Fremont on his first exploring expedition, while + hunting for the command, at some point on the Arkansas, left a buffalo + which he had just killed and partly cut up, to pursue a large bull that + came rushing by him alone. He chased his game for nearly a quarter of a + mile, not being able, however, to gain on it rapidly, owing to the blown + condition of his horse. Coming up at length to the side of the fleeing + beast, Carson fired, but at the same instant his horse stepped into a + prairie-dog hole, fell down and threw Kit fully fifteen feet over his + head. The bullet struck the buffalo low under the shoulder, which only + served to enrage him so that the next moment the infuriated animal was + pursuing Kit, who, fortunately not much hurt, was able to run toward the + river. It was a race for life now, Carson using his nimble legs to the + utmost of their capacity, accelerated very much by the thundering, + bellowing bull bringing up the rear. For several minutes it was nip and + tuck which should reach the stream first, but Kit got there by a scratch a + little ahead. It was a big bend of the river, and the water was deep under + the bank, but it was paradise compared with the hades plunging at his + back; so Kit leaped into the water, trusting to Providence that the bull + would not follow. The trust was well placed, for the bull did not continue + the pursuit, but stood on the bank and shook his head vehemently at the + struggling hunter who had preferred deep waves to the horns of a dilemma + on shore. + </p> + <p> + Kit swam around for some time, carefully guarded by the bull, until his + position was observed by one of his companions, who attacked the + belligerent animal successfully with a forty-four slug, and then Kit + crawled out and—skinned the enemy! + </p> + <p> + He once killed five buffaloes during a single race, and used but four + balls, having dismounted and cut the bullet from the wound of the fourth, + and thus continued the chase. He it was, too, who established his + reputation as a famous hunter by shooting a buffalo cow during an + impetuous race down a steep hill, discharging his rifle just as the animal + was leaping on one of the low cedars peculiar to the region. The ball + struck a vital spot, and the dead cow remained in the jagged branches. The + Indians who were with him on that hunt looked upon the circumstance as + something beyond their comprehension, and insisted that Kit should leave + the carcass in the tree as "Big Medicine." Katzatoa (Smoked Shield), a + celebrated chief of the Kiowas many years ago, who was over seven feet + tall, never mounted a horse when hunting the buffalo; he always ran after + them on foot and killed them with his lance. + </p> + <p> + Two Lance, another famous chief, could shoot an arrow entirely through a + buffalo while hunting on horseback. He accomplished this remarkable feat + in the presence of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, who was under the care + of Buffalo Bill, near Fort Hays, Kansas. + </p> + <p> + During one of Fremont's expeditions, two of his chasseurs, named + Archambeaux and La Jeunesse,<a href="#linknote-43" name="linknoteref-43" + id="linknoteref-43"><small>43</small></a> had a curious adventure on a + buffalo-hunt. One of them was mounted on a mule, the other on a horse; + they came in sight of a large band of buffalo feeding upon the open + prairie about a mile distant. The mule was not fleet enough, and the horse + was too much fatigued with the day's journey, to justify a race, and they + concluded to approach the herd on foot. Dismounting and securing the ends + of their lariats in the ground, they made a slight detour, to take + advantage of the wind, and crept stealthily in the direction of the game, + approaching unperceived until within a few hundred yards. Some old bulls + forming the outer picket guard slowly raised their heads and gazed long + and dubiously at the strange objects, when, discovering that the intruders + were not wolves, but two hunters, they gave a significant grunt, turned + about as though on pivots, and in less than no time the whole herd—bulls, + cows, and calves—were making the gravel fly over the prairie in fine + style, leaving the hunters to their discomfiture. They had scarcely + recovered from their surprise, when, to their great consternation, they + beheld the whole company of the monsters, numbering several thousand, + suddenly shape their course to where the riding animals were picketed. The + charge of the stampeded buffalo was a magnificent one; for the buffalo, + mistaking the horse and the mule for two of their own species, came down + upon them like a tornado. A small cloud of dust arose for a moment over + the spot where the hunter's animals had been left; the black mass moved on + with accelerated speed, and in a few seconds the horizon shut them all + from view. The horse and mule, with all their trappings, saddles, bridles, + and holsters, were never seen or heard of afterward. + </p> + <p> + Buffalo Bill, in less than eighteen months, while employed as hunter of + the construction company of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, in 1867-68, + killed nearly five thousand buffalo, which were consumed by the twelve + hundred men employed in track-laying. He tells in his autobiography of the + following remarkable experience he had at one time with his favourite + horse Brigham, on an impromptu buffalo hunt:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + One day we were pushed for horses to work on our scrapers, + so I hitched up Brigham, to see how he would work. He was + not much used to that kind of labour, and I was about giving + up the idea of making a work horse of him, when one of the + men called to me that there were some buffaloes coming over + the hill. As there had been no buffaloes seen anywhere + in the vicinity of the camp for several days, we had become + rather short of meat. I immediately told one of our men + to hitch his horses to a wagon and follow me, as I was going + out after the herd, and we would bring back some fresh meat + for supper. I had no saddle, as mine had been left at camp + a mile distant, so taking the harness from Brigham I mounted + him bareback, and started out after the game, being armed + with my celebrated buffalo killer Lucretia Borgia—a newly + improved breech-loading needle-gun, which I had obtained + from the government. + + While I was riding toward the buffaloes, I observed five + horsemen coming out from the fort, who had evidently seen + the buffaloes from the post, and were going out for a chase. + They proved to be some newly arrived officers in that part + of the country, and when they came up closer I could see + by the shoulder-straps that the senior was a captain, + while the others were lieutenants. + + "Hello! my friend," sang out the captain; "I see you are + after the same game we are." + + "Yes, sir; I saw those buffaloes coming over the hill, + and as we were about out of fresh meat I thought I would + go and get some," said I. + They scanned my cheap-looking outfit pretty closely, and + as my horse was not very prepossessing in appearance, having + on only a blind bridle, and otherwise looking like a work + horse, they evidently considered me a green hand at hunting. + + "Do you expect to catch those buffaloes on that Gothic + steed?" laughingly asked the captain. + + "I hope so, by pushing on the reins hard enough," was + my reply. + + "You'll never catch them in the world, my fine fellow," + said the captain. "It requires a fast horse to overtake + the animals on the prairie." + + "Does it?" asked I, as if I didn't know it. + + "Yes; but come along with us, as we are going to kill them + more for pleasure than anything else. All we want are the + tongues and a piece of tenderloin, and you may have all + that is left," said the generous man. + + "I am much obliged to you, captain, and will follow you," + I replied. + + There were eleven buffaloes in the herd, and they were not + more than a mile ahead of us. The officers dashed on as if + they had a sure thing on killing them all before I could + come up with them; but I had noticed that the herd was + making toward the creek for water, and as I knew buffalo + nature, I was perfectly aware that it would be difficult + to turn them from their direct course. Thereupon, I started + toward the creek to head them off, while the officers + came up in the rear and gave chase. + + The buffaloes came rushing past me not a hundred yards + distant, with the officers about three hundred yards in + the rear. Now, thought I, is the time to "get my work in," + as they say; and I pulled off the blind bridle from my + horse, who knew as well as I did that we were out after + buffaloes, as he was a trained hunter. The moment the + bridle was off he started at the top of his speed, running + in ahead of the officers, and with a few jumps he brought me + alongside the rear buffalo. Raising old Lucretia Borgia + to my shoulder, I fired, and killed the animal at the + first shot. My horse then carried me alongside the next + one, not ten feet away, and I dropped him at the next fire. + + As soon as one of the buffalo would fall, Brigham would + take me so close to the next that I could almost touch it + with my gun. In this manner I killed the eleven buffaloes + with twelve shots; and as the last animal dropped, my horse + stopped. I jumped off to the ground, knowing that he would + not leave me—it must be remembered that I had been riding + him without bridle, reins, or saddle—and, turning around + as the party of astonished officers rode up, I said to them:— + + "Now, gentlemen, allow me to present to you all the tongues + and tenderloins you wish from these buffaloes." + + Captain Graham, for such I soon learned was his name, + replied: "Well, I never saw the like before. Who under + the sun are you, anyhow?" + + "My name is Cody," said I. + Captain Graham, who was considerable of a horseman, + greatly admired Brigham, and said: "That horse of yours + has running points." + + "Yes, sir; he has not only got the points, he is a runner + and knows how to use the points," said I. + "So I noticed," said the captain. + + They all finally dismounted, and we continued chatting + for some little time upon the different subjects of horses, + buffaloes, hunting, and Indians. They felt a little sore + at not getting a single shot at the buffaloes; but the way + I had killed them, they said, amply repaid them for their + disappointment. They had read of such feats in books, + but this was the first time they had ever seen anything + of the kind with their own eyes. It was the first time, + also, that they had ever witnessed or heard of a white man + running buffaloes on horseback without a saddle or bridle. + + I told them that Brigham knew nearly as much about the + business as I did, and if I had twenty bridles they would + have been of no use to me, as he understood everything, + and all that he expected of me was to do the shooting. + It is a fact that Brigham would stop if a buffalo did not + fall at the first fire, so as to give me a second chance; + but if I did not kill the animal then, he would go on, as + if to say, "You are no good, and I will not fool away my + time by giving you more than two shots." Brigham was the + best horse I ever saw or owned for buffalo chasing. +</pre> + <p> + At one time an old, experienced buffalo hunter was following at the heels + of a small herd with that reckless rush to which in the excitement of the + chase men abandon themselves, when a great bull just in front of him + tumbled into a ravine. The rider's horse fell also, throwing the old + hunter over his head sprawling, but with strange accuracy right between + the bull's horns! The first to recover from the terrible shock and to + regain his legs was the horse, which ran off with wonderful alacrity + several miles before he stopped. Next the bull rose, and shook himself + with an astonished air, as if he would like to know "how that was done?" + The hunter was on the great brute's back, who, perhaps, took the affair as + a good practical joke; but he was soon pitched to the ground, as the + buffalo commenced to jump "stiff-legged," and the latter, giving the + hunter one lingering look, which he long remembered, with remarkable good + nature ran off to join his companions. Had the bull been wounded, the + rider would have been killed, as the then enraged animal would have gored + and trampled him to death. + </p> + <p> + An officer of the old regular army told me many years ago that in crossing + the plains a herd of buffalo were fired at by a twelve-pound howitzer, the + ball of which wounded and stunned an immense bull. Nevertheless, heedless + of a hundred shots that had been fired at him, and of a bulldog belonging + to one of the officers, which had fastened himself to his lips, the + enraged beast charged upon the whole troop of dragoons, and tossed one of + the horses like a feather. Bull, horse, and rider all fell in a heap. + Before the dust cleared away, the trooper, who had hung for a moment to + one of the bull's horns by his waistband, crawled out safe, while the + horse got a ball from a rifle through his neck while in the air and two + great rips in his flank from the bull. + </p> + <p> + In 1839 Kit Carson and Hobbs were trapping with a party on the Arkansas + River, not far from Bent's Fort. Among the trappers was a green Irishman, + named O'Neil, who was quite anxious to become proficient in hunting, and + it was not long before he received his first lesson. Every man who went + out of camp after game was expected to bring in "meat" of some kind. + O'Neil said that he would agree to the terms, and was ready one evening to + start out on his first hunt alone. He picked up his rifle and stalked + after a small herd of buffalo in plain sight on the prairie not more than + five or six hundred yards from camp. + </p> + <p> + All the trappers who were not engaged in setting their traps or cooking + supper were watching O'Neil. Presently they heard the report of his rifle, + and shortly after he came running into camp, bareheaded, without his gun, + and with a buffalo bull close upon his heels; both going at full speed, + and the Irishman shouting like a madman,— + </p> + <p> + "Here we come, by jabers. Stop us! For the love of God, stop us!" + </p> + <p> + Just as they came in among the tents, with the bull not more than six feet + in the rear of O'Neil, who was frightened out of his wits and puffing like + a locomotive, his foot caught in a tent-rope, and over he went into a + puddle of water head foremost, and in his fall capsized several + camp-kettles, some of which contained the trappers' supper. But the + buffalo did not escape so easily; for Hobbs and Kit Carson jumped for + their rifles, and dropped the animal before he had done any further + damage. + </p> + <p> + The whole outfit laughed heartily at O'Neil when he got up out of the + water, for a party of old trappers would show no mercy to any of their + companions who met with a mishap of that character; but as he stood there + with dripping clothes and face covered with mud, his mother-wit came to + his relief and he declared he had accomplished the hunter's task: "For + sure," said he, "haven't I fetched the mate into camp? and there was no + bargain whether it should be dead or alive!" + </p> + <p> + Upon Kit's asking O'Neil where his gun was,— + </p> + <p> + "Sure," said he, "that's more than I can tell you." + </p> + <p> + Next morning Carson and Hobbs took up O'Neil's tracks and the buffalo's, + and after hunting an hour or so found the Irishman's rifle, though he had + little use for it afterward, as he preferred to cook and help around camp + rather than expose his precious life fighting buffaloes. + </p> + <p> + A great herd of buffaloes on the plains in the early days, when one could + approach near enough without disturbing it to quietly watch its + organization and the apparent discipline which its leaders seemed to + exact, was a very curious sight. Among the striking features of the + spectacle was the apparently uniform manner in which the immense mass of + shaggy animals moved; there was constancy of action indicating a degree of + intelligence to be found only in the most intelligent of the brute + creation. Frequently the single herd was broken up into many smaller ones, + that travelled relatively close together, each led by an independent + master. Perhaps a few rods only marked the dividing-line between them, but + it was always unmistakably plain, and each moved synchronously in the + direction in which all were going. + </p> + <p> + The leadership of a herd was attained only by hard struggles for the + place; once reached, however, the victor was immediately recognized, and + kept his authority until some new aspirant overcame him, or he became + superannuated and was driven out of the herd to meet his inevitable fate, + a prey to those ghouls of the desert, the gray wolves. + </p> + <p> + In the event of a stampede, every animal of the separate, yet + consolidated, herds rushed off together, as if they had all gone mad at + once; for the buffalo, like the Texas steer, mule, or domestic horse, + stampedes on the slightest provocation; frequently without any assignable + cause. The simplest affair, sometimes, will start the whole herd; a + prairie-dog barking at the entrance to his burrow, a shadow of one of + themselves or that of a passing cloud, is sufficient to make them run for + miles as if a real and dangerous enemy were at their heels. + </p> + <p> + Like an army, a herd of buffaloes put out vedettes to give the alarm in + case anything beyond the ordinary occurred. These sentinels were always to + be seen in groups of four, five, or even six, at some distance from the + main body. When they perceived something approaching that the herd should + beware of or get away from, they started on a run directly for the centre + of the great mass of their peacefully grazing congeners. Meanwhile, the + young bulls were on duty as sentinels on the edge of the main herd + watching the vedettes; the moment the latter made for the centre, the + former raised their heads, and in the peculiar manner of their species + gazed all around and sniffed the air as if they could smell both the + direction and source of the impending danger. Should there be something + which their instinct told them to guard against, the leader took his + position in front, the cows and calves crowded in the centre, while the + rest of the males gathered on the flanks and in the rear, indicating a + gallantry that might be emulated at times by the genus homo. + </p> + <p> + Generally buffalo went to their drinking-places but once a day, and that + late in the afternoon. Then they ambled along, following each other in + single file, which accounts for the many trails on the plains, always + ending at some stream or lake. They frequently travelled twenty or thirty + miles for water, so the trails leading to it were often worn to the depth + of a foot or more. + </p> + <p> + That curious depression so frequently seen on the great plains, called a + buffalo-wallow, is caused in this wise: The huge animals paw and lick the + salty, alkaline earth, and when once the sod is broken the loose dirt + drifts away under the constant action of the wind. Then, year after year, + through more pawing, licking, rolling, and wallowing by the animals, the + wind wafts more of the soil away, and soon there is a considerable hole in + the prairie. + </p> + <p> + Many an old trapper and hunter's life has been saved by following a + buffalo-trail when he was suffering from thirst. The buffalo-wallows + retain usually a great quantity of water, and they have often saved the + lives of whole companies of cavalry, both men and horses. + </p> + <p> + There was, however, a stranger and more wonderful spectacle to be seen + every recurring spring during the reign of the buffalo, soon after the + grass had started. There were circles trodden bare on the plains, + thousands, yes, millions of them, which the early travellers, who did not + divine their cause, called fairy-rings. From the first of April until the + middle of May was the wet season; you could depend upon its recurrence + almost as certainly as on the sun and moon rising at their proper time. + This was also the calving period of the buffalo, as they, unlike our + domestic cattle, only rutted during a single month; consequently, the cows + all calved during a certain time; this was the wet month, and as there + were a great many gray wolves that roamed singly and in immense packs over + the whole prairie region, the bulls, in their regular beats, kept guard + over the cows while in the act of parturition, and drove the wolves away, + walking in a ring around the females at a short distance, and thus forming + the curious circles. + </p> + <p> + In every herd at each recurring season there were always ambitious young + bulls that came to their majority, so to speak, and these were ever ready + to test their claims for the leadership, so that it may be safely stated + that a month rarely passed without a bloody battle between them for the + supremacy; though, strangely enough, the struggle scarcely ever resulted + in the death of either combatant. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps there is no animal in which maternal love is so wonderfully + developed as the buffalo cow; she is as dangerous with a calf by her side + as a she-grizzly with cubs, as all old mountaineers know. + </p> + <p> + The buffalo bull that has outlived his usefulness is one of the most + pitiable objects in the whole range of natural history. Old age has + probably been decided in the economy of buffalo life as the unpardonable + sin. Abandoned to his fate, he may be discovered, in his dreary isolation, + near some stream or lake, where it does not tax him too severely to find + good grass; for he is now feeble, and exertion an impossibility. In this + new stage of his existence he seems to have completely lost his courage. + Frightened at his own shadow, or the rustling of a leaf, he is the very + incarnation of nervousness and suspicion. Gregarious in his habits from + birth, solitude, foreign to his whole nature, has changed him into a new + creature; and his inherent terror of the most trivial things is + intensified to such a degree that if a man were compelled to undergo such + constant alarm, it would probably drive him insane in less than a week. + Nobody ever saw one of these miserable and helplessly forlorn creatures + dying a natural death, or ever heard of such an occurrence. The cowardly + coyote and the gray wolf had already marked him for their own; and they + rarely missed their calculations. + </p> + <p> + Riding suddenly to the top of a divide once with a party of friends in + 1866, we saw standing below us in the valley an old buffalo bull, the very + picture of despair. Surrounding him were seven gray wolves in the act of + challenging him to mortal combat. The poor beast, undoubtedly realizing + the utter hopelessness of his situation, had determined to die game. His + great shaggy head, filled with burrs, was lowered to the ground as he + confronted his would-be executioners; his tongue, black and parched, + lolled out of his mouth, and he gave utterance at intervals to a + suppressed roar. + </p> + <p> + The wolves were sitting on their haunches in a semi-circle immediately in + front of the tortured beast, and every time that the fear-stricken buffalo + would give vent to his hoarsely modulated groan, the wolves howled in + concert in most mournful cadence. + </p> + <p> + After contemplating his antagonists for a few moments, the bull made a + dash at the nearest wolf, tumbling him howling over the silent prairie; + but while this diversion was going on in front, the remainder of the pack + started for his hind legs, to hamstring him. Upon this the poor brute + turned to the point of attack only to receive a repetition of it in the + same vulnerable place by the wolves, who had as quickly turned also and + fastened themselves on his heels again. His hind quarters now streamed + with blood and he began to show signs of great physical weakness. He did + not dare to lie down; that would have been instantly fatal. By this time + he had killed three of the wolves or so maimed them that they were + entirely out of the fight. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture the suffering animal was mercifully shot, and the wolves + allowed to batten on his thin and tough carcass. + </p> + <p> + Often there are serious results growing out of a stampede, either by mules + or a herd of buffalo. A portion of the Fifth United States Infantry had a + narrow escape from a buffalo stampede on the Old Trail, in the early + summer of 1866. General George A. Sykes, who commanded the Division of + Regulars in the Army of the Potomac during the Civil War, was ordered to + join his regiment, stationed in New Mexico, and was conducting a body of + recruits, with their complement of officers, to fill up the decimated + ranks of the army stationed at the various military posts, in far-off + Greaser Land. + </p> + <p> + The command numbered nearly eight hundred, including the subaltern + officers. These recruits, or the majority of them at least, were recruits + in name only; they had seen service in many a hard campaign of the + Rebellion. Some, of course, were beardless youths just out of their teens, + full of that martial ardour which induced so many young men of the nation + to follow the drum on the remote plains and in the fastnesses of the Rocky + Mountains, where the wily savages still held almost undisputed sway, and + were a constant menace to the pioneer settlers. + </p> + <p> + One morning, when the command had just settled itself in careless repose + on the short grass of the apparently interminable prairie at the first + halt of the day's march, a short distance beyond Fort Larned, a strange + noise, like the low muttering of thunder below the horizon, greeted the + ears of the little army. + </p> + <p> + All were startled by the ominous sound, unlike anything they had heard + before on their dreary tour. The general ordered his scouts out to learn + the cause; could it be Indians? Every eye was strained for something out + of the ordinary. Even the horses of the officers and the mules of the + supply-train were infected by something that seemed impending; they grew + restless, stamped the earth, and vainly essayed to stampede, but were + prevented by their hobbles and picket-pins. + </p> + <p> + Presently one of the scouts returned from over the divide, and reported to + the general that an immense herd of buffalo was tearing down toward the + Trail, and from the great clouds of dust they raised, which obscured the + horizon, there must have been ten thousand of them. The roar wafted to the + command, and which seemed so mysterious, was made by their hoofs as they + rattled over the dry prairie. + </p> + <p> + The sound increased in volume rapidly, and soon a black, surging mass was + discovered bearing right down on the Trail. Behind it could be seen a + cavalcade of about five hundred Cheyennes, Comanches, and Kiowas, who had + maddened the shaggy brutes, hoping to capture the train without an attack + by forcing the frightened animals to overrun the command. + </p> + <p> + Luckily, something caused the herd to open before it reached the foot of + the divide, and it passed in two masses, leaving the command between, not + two hundred feet from either division of the infuriated beasts. + </p> + <p> + The rage of the savages was evident when they saw that their attempt to + annihilate the troops had failed, and they rode off sullenly into the sand + hills, as the number of soldiers was too great for them to think of + charging. + </p> + <p> + Cody tells of a buffalo stampede which he witnessed in his youth on the + plains, when he was a wagon-master. The caravan was on its way with + government stores for the military posts in the mountains, and the wagons + were hauled by oxen. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +He says: The country was alive with buffalo, and besides killing + quite a number we had a rare day for sport. One morning + we pulled out of camp, and the train was strung out to a + considerable length along the Trail, which ran near the foot + of the sand hills, two miles from the river. Between the + road and the river we saw a large herd of buffalo grazing + quietly, they having been down to the stream to drink. + Just at this time we observed a party of returning + Californians coming from the west. They, too, noticed + the buffalo herd, and in another moment they were dashing + down upon them, urging their horses to their greatest speed. + The buffalo herd stampeded at once, and broke down the sides + of the hills; so hotly were they pursued by the hunters + that about five hundred of them rushed pell-mell through + our caravan, frightening both men and oxen. Some of the + wagons were turned clear around and many of the terrified + oxen attempted to run to the hills with the heavy wagons + attached to them. Others were turned around so short + that they broke the tongues off. Nearly all the teams + got entangled in their gearing and became wild and unruly, + so that the perplexed drivers were unable to manage them. + + The buffalo, the cattle, and the men were soon running + in every direction, and the excitement upset everybody + and everything. Many of the oxen broke their yokes and + stampeded. One big buffalo bull became entangled in one + of the heavy wagon-chains, and it is a fact that in his + desperate efforts to free himself, he not only snapped + the strong chain in two, but broke the ox-yoke to which + it was attached, and the last seen of him he was running + toward the hills with it hanging from his horns. +</pre> + <p> + Stampedes were a great source of profit to the Indians of the plains. The + Comanches were particularly expert and daring in this kind of robbery. + They even trained their horses to run from one point to another in + expectation of the coming of the trains. When a camp was made that was + nearly in range, they turned their trained animals loose, which at once + flew across the prairie, passing through the herd and penetrating the very + corrals of their victims. All of the picketed horses and mules would + endeavour to follow these decoys, and were invariably led right into the + haunts of the Indians, who easily secured them. Young horses and mules + were easily frightened; and, in the confusion which generally ensued, + great injury was frequently done to the runaways themselves. + </p> + <p> + At times when the herd was very large, the horses scattered over the + prairie and were irrevocably lost; and such as did not become wild fell a + prey to the wolves. That fate was very frequently the lot of stampeded + horses bred in the States, they not having been trained by a prairie life + to take care of themselves. Instead of stopping and bravely fighting off + the blood-thirsty beasts, they would run. Then the whole pack were sure to + leave the bolder animals and make for the runaways, which they seldom + failed to overtake and despatch. + </p> + <p> + On the Old Trail some years ago one of these stampedes occurred of a band + of government horses, in which were several valuable animals. It was + attended, however, with very little loss, through the courage and great + exertion of the men who had them in charge; many were recovered, but none + without having sustained injuries. + </p> + <p> + Hon. R. M. Wright, of Dodge City, Kansas, one of the pioneers in the days + of the Santa Fe trade, and in the settlement of the State, has had many + exciting experiences both with the savages of the great plains, and the + buffalo. In relation to the habits of the latter, no man is better + qualified to speak. + </p> + <p> + He was once owner of Fort Aubrey, a celebrated point on the Trail, but was + compelled to abandon it on account of constant persecution by the Indians, + or rather he was ordered to do so by the military authorities. While + occupying the once famous landmark, in connection with others, had a + contract to furnish hay to the government at Fort Lyon, seventy-five miles + further west. His journal, which he kindly placed at my disposal, says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + While we were preparing to commence the work, a vast herd + of buffalo stampeded through our range one night, and + took off with them about half of our work cattle. The next + day a stage-driver and conductor on the Overland Route told + us they had seen a number of our oxen twenty-five miles east + of Aubrey, and this information gave me an idea in which + direction to hunt for the missing beasts. I immediately + started after them, while my partner took those that + remained and a few wagons and left with them for Fort Lyon. + + Let me explain here that while the Indians were supposed to + be peaceable, small war-parties of young men, who could not + be controlled by their chiefs, were continually committing + depredations, and the main body of savages themselves were + very uneasy, and might be expected to break out any day. + In consequence of this unsettled state of affairs, there + had been a brisk movement among the United States troops + stationed at the various military posts, a large number of + whom were believed to be on the road from Denver to Fort Lyon. + + I filled my saddle-bags with jerked buffalo, hardtack and + ground coffee, and took with me a belt of cartridges, + my rifle and six-shooter, a field-glass and my blankets, + prepared for any emergency. The first day out, I found a + few of the lost cattle, and placed them on the river-bottom, + which I continued to do as fast as I recovered them, for a + distance of about eighty-five miles down the Arkansas. + There I met a wagon-train, the drivers of which told me + that I would find several more of my oxen with a train + that had arrived at the Cimarron crossing the day before. + I came up with this train in eight or ten hours' travel + south of the river, got my cattle, and started next morning + for home. + + I picked up those I had left on the Arkansas as I went + along, and after having made a very hard day's travel, + about sundown I concluded I would go into camp. I had + only fairly halted when the oxen began to drop down, + so completely tired out were they, as I believed. Just as + it was growing dark, I happened to look toward the west, + and I saw several fires on a big island, near what was + called "The Lone Tree," about a mile from where I had + determined to remain for the night. + + Thinking the fires were those of the soldiers that I had + heard were on the road from Denver, and anticipating and + longing for a cup of good coffee, as I had had none for + five days, knowing, too, that the troops would be full of + news, I felt good and determined to go over to their camp. + + The Arkansas was low, but the banks steep, with high, + rank grass growing to the very water's edge. I found + a buffalo-trail cut through the deep bank, narrow and + precipitous, and down this I went, arriving in a short time + within a little distance of my supposed soldiers' camp. + When I had reached the middle of another deep cut in the + bank, I looked across to the island, and, great Caesar! + saw a hundred little fires, around which an aggregation + of a thousand Indians were huddled! + + I slid backwards off my horse, and by dint of great exertion, + worked him up the river-bank as quietly and quickly as + possible, then led him gently away out on the prairie. + My first impulse was not to go back to the cattle; but as + we needed them very badly, I concluded to return, put them + all on their feet, and light out mighty lively, without + making any noise. I started them, and, oh dear! I was + afraid to tread upon a weed, lest it would snap and bring + the Indians down on my trail. Until I had put several + miles between them and me, I could not rest easy for + a moment. Tired as I was, tired as were both my horse + and the cattle, I drove them twenty-five miles before + I halted. Then daylight was upon me. I was at what is + known as Chouteau's Island, a once famous place in the + days of the Old Santa Fe Trail. + + Of course, I had to let the oxen and my horse rest and fill + themselves until the afternoon, and I lay down, and fell + asleep, but did not sleep long, as I thought it dangerous + to remain too near the cattle. I rose and walked up a big, + dry sand creek that opened into the river, and after I had + ascended it for a couple of miles, found the banks very + steep; in fact, they rose to a height of eighteen or twenty + feet, and were sharply cut up by narrow trails made by + the buffalo. + + The whole face of the earth was covered by buffalo, and + they were slowly grazing toward the Arkansas. All at once + they became frightened at something, and stampeded pell-mell + toward the very spot on which I stood. I quickly ran into + one of the precipitous little paths and up on the prairie, + to see what had scared them. They were making the ground + fairly tremble as their mighty multitude came rushing on + at full speed, the sound of their hoofs resembling thunder, + but in a continuous peal. It appeared to me that they must + sweep everything in their path, and for my own preservation + I rushed under the creek-bank, but on they came like a + tornado, with one old bull in the lead. He held up a second + to descend the narrow trail, and when he had got about + halfway down I let him have it; I was only a few steps from + him and over he tumbled. I don't know why I killed him; + out of pure wantonness, I expect, or perhaps I thought + it would frighten the others back. Not so, however; + they only quickened their pace, and came dashing down in + great numbers. Dozens of them stumbled and fell over the + dead bull; others fell over them. The top of the bank + was fairly swarming with them; they leaped, pitched, and + rolled down. I crouched as close to the bank as possible, + but many of them just grazed my head, knocking the sand + and gravel in great streams down my neck; indeed I was + half buried before the herd had passed over. That old bull + was the last buffalo I ever shot wantonly, excepting once, + from an ambulance while riding on the Old Trail, to please + a distinguished Englishman, who had never seen one shot; + then I did it only after his most earnest persuasion. + + One day a stage-driver named Frank Harris and myself started + out after buffalo; they were scarce, for a wonder, and + we were very hungry for fresh meat. The day was fine and + we rode a long way, expecting sooner or later a bunch would + jump up, but in the afternoon, having seen none, we gave + it up and started for the ranch. Of course, we didn't + care to save our ammunition, so shot it away at everything + in sight, skunks, rattlesnakes, prairie-dogs, and gophers, + until we had only a few loads left. Suddenly an old bull + jumped up that had been lying down in one of those + sugar-loaf-shaped sand hills, whose tops are hollowed out + by the action of the wind. Harris emptied his revolver + into him, and so did I; but the old fellow sullenly stood + still there on top of the sand hill, bleeding profusely + at the nose, and yet absolutely refusing to die, although + he would repeatedly stagger and nearly tumble over. + + It was getting late and we couldn't wait on him, so Harris + said: "I will dismount, creep up behind him, and cut his + hamstrings with my butcher-knife." The bull having now + lain down, Harris commenced operations, but his movement + seemed to infuse new life into the old fellow; he jumped + to his feet, his head lowered in the attitude of fight, + and away he went around the outside of the top of the + sand hill! It was a perfect circus with one ring; Harris, + who was a tall, lanky fellow, took hold of the enraged + animal's tail as he rose to his feet, and in a moment his + legs were flying higher than his head, but he did not dare + let go of his hold on the bull's tail, and around and + around they went; it was his only show for life. I could + not assist him a particle, but had to sit and hold his horse, + and be judge of the fight. I really thought that old bull + would never weaken. Finally, however, the "ring" performance + began to show symptoms of fatigue; slower and slower the + actions of the bull grew, and at last Harris succeeded + in cutting his hamstrings and the poor beast went down. + Harris said afterward, when the danger was all over, that + the only thing he feared was that perhaps the bull's tail + would pull out, and if it did, he was well aware that he + was a goner. We brought his tongue, hump, and a hindquarter + to the ranch with us, and had a glorious feast and a big + laugh that night with the boys over the ridiculous adventure. +</pre> + <p> + General Richard Irving Dodge, United States army, in his work on the big + game of America, says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It is almost impossible for a civilized being to realize + the value to the plains Indian of the buffalo. It furnished + him with home, food, clothing, bedding, horse equipment— + almost everything. + + From 1869 to 1873 I was stationed at various posts along + the Arkansas River. Early in spring, as soon as the dry + and apparently desert prairie had begun to change its coat + of dingy brown to one of palest green, the horizon would + begin to be dotted with buffalo, single or in groups of two + or three, forerunners of the coming herd. Thick and thicker, + and in large groups they come, until by the time the grass + is well up, the whole vast landscape appears a mass of + buffalo, some individuals feeding, others lying down, but + the herd slowly moving to the northward; of their number, + it was impossible to form a conjecture. + + Determined as they are to pursue their journey northward, + yet they are exceedingly cautious and timid about it, + and on any alarm rush to the southward with all speed, + until that alarm is dissipated. Especially is this the case + when any unusual object appears in their rear, and so + utterly regardless of consequences are they, that an old + plainsman will not risk a wagon-train in such a herd, + where rising ground will permit those in front to get + a good view of their rear. + + In May, 1871, I drove in a buggy from old Fort Zarah + to Fort Larned, on the Arkansas River. The distance is + thirty-four miles. At least twenty-five miles of that + distance was through an immense herd. The whole country + was one mass of buffalo, apparently, and it was only when + actually among them, that the seemingly solid body was + seen to be an agglomeration of countless herds of from + fifty to two hundred animals, separated from the surrounding + herds by a greater or less space, but still separated. + + The road ran along the broad valley of the Arkansas. + Some miles from Zarah a low line of hills rises from the + plain on the right, gradually increasing in height and + approaching road and river, until they culminate in + Pawnee Rock. + + So long as I was in the broad, level valley, the herds + sullenly got out of my way, and, turning, stared stupidly + at me, some within thirty or forty yards. When, however, + I had reached a point where the hills were no more than + a mile from the road, the buffalo on the crests, seeing an + unusual object in their rear, turned, stared an instant, + then started at full speed toward me, stampeding and + bringing with them the numberless herds through which + they passed, and pouring down on me, no longer separated + but compacted into one immense mass of plunging animals, + mad with fright, irresistible as an avalanche. + + The situation was by no means pleasant. There was but + one hope of escape. My horse was, fortunately, a quiet + old beast, that had rushed with me into many a herd, and + been in at the death of many a buffalo. Reining him up, + I waited until the front of the mass was within fifty yards, + then, with a few well-directed shots, dropped some of + the leaders, split the herd and sent it off in two streams + to my right and left. When all had passed me, they stopped, + apparently satisfied, though thousands were yet within + reach of my rifle. After my servant had cut out the + tongues of the fallen, I proceeded on my journey, only to + have a similar experience within a mile or two, and this + occurred so often that I reached Fort Larned with twenty-six + tongues, representing the greatest number of buffalo that + I can blame myself with having murdered in one day. + + Some years, as in 1871, the buffalo appeared to move + northward in one immense column, oftentimes from twenty + to fifty miles in width, and of unknown depth from front + to rear. Other years the northward journey was made + in several parallel columns moving at the same rate and + with their numerous flankers covering a width of a hundred + or more miles. + + When the food in one locality fails, they go to another, + and toward fall, when the grass of the high prairies + becomes parched by the heat and drought, they gradually + work their way back to the south, concentrating on the + rich pastures of Texas and the Indian Territory, whence, + the same instinct acting on all, they are ready to start + together again on their northward march as soon as spring + starts the grass. + + Old plainsmen and the Indians aver that the buffalo never + return south; that each year's herd was composed of animals + which had never made the journey before, and would never + make it again. All admit the northern migration, that + being too pronounced for any one to dispute, but refuse + to admit the southern migration. Thousands of young calves + were caught and killed every spring that were produced + during this migration, and accompanied the herd northward; + but because the buffalo did not return south in one vast + body as they went north, it was stoutly maintained that + they did not go south at all. The plainsman could give + no reasonable hypothesis of his "No-return theory" on which + to base the origin of the vast herds which yearly made + their march northward. The Indian was, however, equal + to the occasion. Every plains Indian firmly believed that + the buffalo were produced in countless numbers in a country + under ground; that every spring the surplus swarmed, + like bees from a hive, out of the immense cave-like opening + in the region of the great Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain + of Texas. In 1879 Stone Calf, a celebrated chief, assured + me that he knew exactly where the caves were, though he had + never seen them; that the good God had provided this + means for the constant supply of food for the Indian, and + however recklessly the white men might slaughter, they could + never exterminate them. When last I saw him, the old man + was beginning to waver in this belief, and feared that + the "Bad God" had shut the entrances, and that his tribe + must starve. +</pre> + <p> + The old trappers and plainsmen themselves, even as early as the beginning + of the Santa Fe trade, noticed the gradual disappearance of the buffalo, + while they still existed in countless numbers. One veteran French + Canadian, an employee of the American Fur Company, way back in the early + '30's, used to mourn thus: "Mais, sacre! les Amarican, dey go to de + Missouri frontier, de buffalo he ron to de montaigne; de trappaire wid his + fusil, he follow to de Bayou Salade, he ron again. Dans les Montaignes + Espagnol, bang! bang! toute la journee, toute la journee, go de sacre + voleurs. De bison he leave, parceque les fusils scare im vara moche, ici + là de sem-sacré!" + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. INDIAN CUSTOMS AND LEGENDS. + </h2> + <p> + Thirty-five miles before arriving at Bent's Fort, at which point the Old + Trail crossed the Arkansas, the valley widens and the prairie falls toward + the river in gentle undulations. There for many years the three friendly + tribes of plains Indians—Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Kiowas—established + their winter villages, in order to avail themselves of the supply of wood, + to trade with the whites, and to feed their herds of ponies on the small + limbs and bark of the cottonwood trees growing along the margin of the + stream for four or five miles. It was called Big Timbers, and was one of + the most eligible places to camp on the whole route after leaving Council + Grove. The grass, particularly on the south side of the river, was + excellent; there was an endless supply of fuel, and cool water without + stint. + </p> + <p> + In the severe winters that sometimes were fruitful of blinding blizzards, + sweeping from the north in an intensity of fury that was almost + inconceivable, the buffalo too congregated there for shelter, and to + browse on the twigs of the great trees. + </p> + <p> + The once famous grove, though denuded of much of its timber, may still be + seen from the car windows as the trains hurry mountainward. + </p> + <p> + Garrard, in his <i>Taos Trail</i>, presents an interesting and amusing + account of a visit to the Cheyenne village with old John Smith, in 1847, + when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, and that with the various + tribes of savages in its golden days. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Toward the middle of the day, the village was in a great + bustle. Every squaw, child, and man had their faces + blackened—a manifestation of joy.<a href="#linknote-44" + name="linknoteref-44" id="linknoteref-44">44</a> + + Pell-mell they went—men, squaws, and dogs—into the icy + river. Some hastily jerked off their leggings, and held + moccasins and dresses high out of the water. Others, too + impatient, dashed the stream from beneath their impetuous + feet, scarce taking time to draw more closely the always + worn robe. Wondering what caused all this commotion, and + looking over the river, whither the yelling, half-frantic + savages were so speedily hurrying, we saw a band of Indians + advancing toward us. As the foremost braves reined their + champing barbs on the river-bank, mingled whoops of triumph + and delight and the repeated discharge of guns filled + the air. In the hands of three were slender willow wands, + from the smaller points of which dangled as many scalps— + the single tuft of hair on each pronouncing them Pawnees.<a + href="#linknote-45" name="linknoteref-45" id="linknoteref-45">45</a> + + These were raised aloft, amid unrestrained bursts of joy + from the thrice-happy, blood-thirsty throng. Children ran + to meet their fathers, sisters their brothers, girls their + lovers, returning from the scene of victorious strife; + decrepit matrons welcomed manly sons; and aged chiefs their + boys and braves. It was a scene of affection, and a proud + day in the Cheyenne annals of prowess. That small but + gallant band were relieved of their shields and lances by + tender-hearted squaws, and accompanied to their respective + homes, to repose by the lodge-fire, consume choice meat, + and to be the heroes of the family circle. + + The drum at night sent forth its monotony of hollow sound, + and my Mexican Pedro and I, directed by the booming, + entered a lodge, vacated for the purpose, full of young men + and squaws, following one another in a continuous circle, + keeping the left knee stiff and bending the right with a + half-forward, half-backward step, as if they wanted to go on + and could not, accompanying it, every time the right foot + was raised, with an energetic, broken song, which, dying + away, was again and again sounded—"hay-a, hay-a, hay-a," + they went, laying the emphasis on the first syllable. + A drum, similar to, though larger than a tambourine, covered + with parflêche,<a href="#linknote-46" name="linknoteref-46" + id="linknoteref-46">46</a> was beaten upon with a stick, producing + with the voices a sound not altogether disagreeable. + + Throughout the entire night and succeeding day the voices + of the singers and heavy notes of the drum reached us, + and at night again the same dull sound lulled me to sleep. + Before daylight our lodge was filled with careless dancers, + and the drum and voices, so unpleasing to our wearied ears, + were giving us the full benefit of their compass. Smith, + whose policy it was not to be offended, bore the infliction + as best he could, and I looked on much amused. The lodge + was so full that they stood without dancing, in a circle + round the fire, and with a swaying motion of the body + kept time to their music. + + During the day the young men, except the dancers, piled up + dry logs in a level open space near, for a grand demonstration. + At night, when it was fired, I folded my blanket over my + shoulders, comme les sauvages, and went out. The faces + of many girls were brilliant with vermilion; others were + blacked, their robes, leggings, and skin dresses glittering + with beads and quill-work. Rings and bracelets of shining + brass encircled their taper arms and fingers, and shells + dangled from their ears. Indeed, all the finery collectable + was piled on in barbarous profusion, though a few, in good + taste through poverty, wore a single band and but few rings, + with jetty hair parted in the middle, from the forehead + to the neck, terminating in two handsome braids. + + The young men who can afford the expense trade for dollars + and silver coin of less denomination—coin as a currency + is not known among them—which they flatten thin, and fasten + to a braid of buffalo hair, attached to the crown lock, + which hangs behind, outside of the robe, and adds much to + the handsome appearance of the wearer. + + The girls, numbering two hundred, fell into line together, + and the men, of whom there were two hundred and fifty, + joining, a circle was formed, which travelled around with + the same shuffling step already described. The drummers + and other musicians—twenty or twenty-five of them—marched + in a contrary direction to and from and around the fire, + inside the large ring; for at the distance kept by the + outsiders the area was one hundred and fifty feet in diameter. + The Apollonian emulators chanted the great deeds performed + by the Cheyenne warriors. As they ended, the dying strain + was caught up by the hundreds of the outside circle, who, + in fast-swelling, loud tones, poured out the burden of + their song. At this juncture the march was quickened, + the scalps of the slain were borne aloft and shaken with + wild delight, and shrill war-notes, rising above the + furious din, accelerated the pulsation and strung high + the nerves. Time-worn shields, careering in mad holders' + hands, clashed; and keen lances, once reeking in Pawnee + blood, clanged. Braves seized one another with an iron + grip, in the heat of excitement, or chimed more tenderly + in the chant, enveloped in the same robe with some maiden + as they approvingly stepped through one of their own + original polkas. + + Thirty of the chiefs and principal men were ranged by the + pile of blazing logs. By their invitation, I sat down with + them and smoked death and its concomitant train of evils to + those audacious tribes who doubt the courage or supremacy + of the brave, the great and powerful, Cheyenne nation. +</pre> + <p> + It is Indian etiquette that the first lodge a stranger enters on visiting + a village is his home as long as he remains the guest of the tribe. It is + all the same whether he be invited or not. Upon going in, it is customary + to place all your traps in the back part, which is the most honoured spot. + The proprietor always occupies that part of his home, but invariably gives + it up to a guest. With the Cheyennes, the white man, when the tribe was at + peace with him, was ever welcome, as in the early days of the border he + generally had a supply of coffee, of which the savage is particularly fond—Mok-ta-bo-mah-pe, + as they call it. Their salutation to the stranger coming into the presence + of the owner of a lodge is "Hook-ah-hay! Num-whit,"—"How do you do? + Stay with us." Water is then handed by a squaw, as it is supposed a + traveller is thirsty after riding; then meat, for he must be hungry, too. + A pipe is offered, and conversation follows. + </p> + <p> + The lodge of the Cheyennes is formed of seventeen poles, about three + inches thick at the end which rests on the ground, slender in shape, + tapering symmetrically, and eighteen feet or more in length. They are tied + together at the small ends with buffalo-hide, then raised until the frame + resembles a cone, over which buffalo-skins are placed, very skilfully + fitted and made soft by having been dubbed by the women—that is, + scraped to the requisite thinness, and made supple by rubbing with the + brains of the animal that wore it. They are sewed together with sinews of + the buffalo, generally of the long and powerful muscle that holds up the + ponderous head of the shaggy beast, a narrow strip running towards the + bump. In summer the lower edges of the skin are rolled up, and the wind + blowing through, it is a cool, shady retreat. In winter everything is + closed, and I know of no more comfortable place than a well-made Indian + lodge. The army tent known as the Sibley is modelled after it, and is the + best winter shelter for troops in the field that can be made. Many times + while the military post where I had been ordered was in process of + building, I have chosen the Sibley tent in preference to any other + domicile. + </p> + <p> + When a village is to be moved, it is an interesting sight. The young and + unfledged boys drive up the herd of ponies, and then the squaws catch + them. The women, too, take down the lodges, and, tying the poles in two + bundles, fasten them on each side of an animal, the long ends dragging on + the ground. Just behind the pony or mule, as the case may be, a basket is + placed and held there by buffalo-hide thongs, and into these novel + carriages the little children are put, besides such traps as are not + easily packed on the animal's back. + </p> + <p> + The women do all the work both in camp and when moving. They are doomed to + a hopeless bondage of slavery, the fate of their sex in every savage race; + but they accept their condition stoically, and there is as much affection + among them for their husbands and children as I have ever witnessed among + the white race. Here are two instances of their devotion, both of which + came under my personal observation, and I could give hundreds of others. + </p> + <p> + Late in the fall of 1858, I was one of a party on the trail of a band of + Indians who had been committing some horrible murders in a mining-camp in + the northern portion of Washington Territory. On the fourth day out, just + about dusk, we struck their moccasin tracks, which we followed all night, + and surprised their camp in the gray light of the early morning. In less + than ten minutes the fight was over, and besides the killed we captured + six prisoners. Then as the rising sun commenced to gild the peaks of the + lofty range on the west, having granted our captives half an hour to take + leave of their families, the ankles of each were bound; they were made to + kneel on the prairie, a squad of soldiers, with loaded rifles, were drawn + up eight paces in front of them, and at the instant the signal—a + white handkerchief—was dropped the savages tumbled over on the sod a + heap of corpses. The parting between the condemned men and their young + wives and children, I shall never forget. It was the most perfect + exhibition of marital and filial love that I have ever witnessed. Such + harsh measures may seem cruel and heartless in the light of to-day, but + there was none other than martial law then in the wilderness of the + Northern Pacific coast, and the execution was a stern necessity. + </p> + <p> + The other instance was ten years later. During the Indian campaign in the + winter of 1868-69 I was riding with a party of officers and enlisted men, + south of the Arkansas, about fourty miles from Fort Dodge. We were + watching some cavalrymen unearth three or four dead warriors who had been + killed by two scouts in a fierce unequal fight a few weeks before, and as + we rode into a small ravine among the sand hills, we suddenly came upon a + rudely constructed Cheyenne lodge. Entering, we discovered on a rough + platform, fashioned of green poles, a dead warrior in full war-dress; his + shield of buffalo-hide, pipe ornamented with eagles' feathers, and + medicine bag, were lying on the ground beside him. At his head, on her + knees, with hands clasped in the attitude of prayer, was a squaw frozen to + death. Which had first succumbed, the wounded chief, or the devoted wife + in the awful cold of that winter prairie, will never be known, but it + proved her love for the man who had perhaps beaten her a hundred times. + Such tender and sympathetic affection is characteristic of the sex + everywhere, no less with the poor savage than in the dominant white race. + </p> + <p> + To return to our description of the average Indian village: Each lodge at + the grand encampment of Big Timbers in the era of traffic with the nomads + of the great plains, owned its separate herd of ponies and mules. In the + exodus to some other favoured spot, two dozen or more of these individual + herds travelled close to each other but never mixed, each drove devotedly + following its bell-mare, as in a pack-train. This useful animal is + generally the most worthless and wicked beast in the entire outfit. + </p> + <p> + The animals with the lodge-pole carriages go as they please, no special + care being taken to guide them, but they too instinctively keep within + sound of the leader. I will again quote Garrard for an accurate + description of the moving camp when he was with the Cheyennes in 1847:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The young squaws take much care of their dress and horse + equipments; they dash furiously past on wild steeds, + astride of the high-pommelled saddles. A fancifully + coloured cover, worked with beads or porcupine quills, + making a flashy, striking appearance, extended from withers + to rump of the horse, while the riders evinced an admirable + daring, worthy of Amazons. Their dresses were made of + buckskin, high at the neck, with short sleeves, or rather + none at all, fitting loosely, and reaching obliquely to + the knee, giving a Diana look to the costume; the edges + scalloped, worked with beads, and fringed. From the knee + downward the limb was encased in a tightly fitting legging, + terminating in a neat moccasin—both handsomely wrought + with beads. On the arms were bracelets of brass, which + glittered and reflected in the radiant morning sun, adding + much to their attractions. In their pierced ears, shells + from the Pacific shore were pendent; and to complete the + picture of savage taste and profusion, their fine + complexions were eclipsed by a coat of flaming vermilion. + + Many of the largest dogs were packed with a small quantity + of meat, or something not easily injured. They looked + queerly, trotting industriously under their burdens; and, + judging from a small stock of canine physiological + information, not a little of the wolf was in their + composition. + + We crossed the river on our way to the new camp. The alarm + manifested by the children in the lodge-pole drays, as they + dipped in the water, was amusing. The little fellows, + holding their breath, not daring to cry, looked imploringly + at their inexorable mothers, and were encouraged by words + of approbation from their stern fathers. + + After a ride of two hours we stopped, and the chiefs, + fastening their horses, collected in circles to smoke their + pipe and talk, letting their squaws unpack the animals, + pitch the lodges, build the fires, and arrange the robes. + When all was ready, these lords of creation dispersed to + their several homes, to wait until their patient and + enduring spouses prepared some food. I was provoked, nay, + angry, to see the lazy, overgrown men do nothing to help + their wives; and when the young women pulled off their + bracelets and finery to chop wood, the cup of my wrath was + full to overflowing, and, in a fit of honest indignation, + I pronounced them ungallant and savage in the true sense + of the word. +</pre> + <p> + The treatment of Indian children, particularly boys, is something + startling to the gentle sentiments of refined white mothers. The girls + receive hardly any attention from their fathers. Implicit obedience is the + watchword of the lodge with them, and they are constantly taught to + appreciate their inferiority of sex. The daughter is a mere slave; + unnoticed and neglected—a mere hewer of wood and drawer of water. + With a son, it is entirely different; the father from his birth dotes on + him and manifests his affection in the most demonstrative manner. + </p> + <p> + Garrard tells of two instances that came under his observation while + staying at the chief's lodge, and at John Smith's, in the Cheyenne + village, of the discipline to which the boys are subjected. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + In Vi-po-nah's lodge was his grandson, a boy six or seven + months old. Every morning his mother washed him in cold + water, and set him out in the air to make him hardy; + he would come in, perfectly nude, from his airing, about + half-frozen. How he would laugh and brighten up, as he felt + the warmth of the fire! + + Smith's son Jack took a crying fit one cold night, much to + the annoyance of four or five chiefs, who had come to our + lodge to talk and smoke. In vain did the mother shake and + scold him with the severest Cheyenne words, until Smith, + provoked beyond endurance, took the squalling youngster in + his hands; he shu-ed and shouted and swore, but Jack had + gone too far to be easily pacified. He then sent for a + bucket of water from the river and poured cupful after + cupful on Jack, who stamped and screamed and bit in his + tiny rage. Notwithstanding, the icy stream slowly descended + until the bucket was emptied, another was sent for, and + again and again the cup was replenished and emptied on the + blubbering youth. At last, exhausted with exertion and + completely cooled down, he received the remaining water + in silence, and, with a few words of admonition, was + delivered over to his mother, in whose arms he stifled his + sobs, until his heartbreaking grief and cares were drowned + in sleep. What a devilish mixture Indian and American + blood is! +</pre> + <p> + The Indians never chastise a boy, as they think his spirit would be broken + and cowed down; instead of a warrior he would be a squaw—a harsh + epithet indicative of cowardice—and they resort to any method but + infliction of blows to subdue a refractory scion. + </p> + <p> + Before most of the lodges is a tripod of three sticks, about seven feet in + length and an inch in diameter, fastened at the top, and the lower ends + brought out, so that it stands alone. On this is hung the shield and a + small square bag of parflêche, containing pipes, with an accompanying + pendent roll of stems, carefully wrapped in blue or red cloth, and + decorated with beads and porcupine quills. This collection is held in + great veneration, for the pipe is their only religion. Through its agency + they invoke the Great Spirit; through it they render homage to the winds, + to the earth, and to the sky. + </p> + <p> + Every one has his peculiar notion on this subject; and, in passing the + pipe, one must have it presented stem downward, another the reverse; some + with the bowl resting on the ground; and as this is a matter of great + solemnity, their several fancies are respected. Sometimes I required them + to hand it to me, when smoking, in imitation of their custom; on this, a + faint smile, half mingled with respect and pity for my folly in tampering + with their sacred ceremony, would appear on their faces, and with a slow + negative shake of the head, they would ejaculate, + "I-sto-met-mah-son-ne-wah-hein"—"Pshaw! that's foolish; don't do + so." + </p> + <p> + Religion the Cheyennes have none, if, indeed, we except the respect paid + to the pipe; nor do we see any sign or vestige of spiritual worship; + except one remarkable thing—in offering the pipe, before every fresh + filling, to the sky, the earth, and the winds, the motion made in so doing + describes the form of a cross; and, in blowing the first four whiffs, the + smoke is invariably sent in the same four directions. It is undoubtedly + void of meaning in reference to Christian worship, yet it is a + superstition, founded on ancient tradition. This tribe once lived near the + head waters of the Mississippi; and, as the early Jesuit missionaries were + energetic zealots, in the diffusion of their religious sentiments, + probably to make their faith more acceptable to the Indians, the Roman + Catholic rites were blended with the homage shown to the pipe, which + custom of offering, in the form of a cross, is still retained by them; but + as every custom is handed down by tradition merely, the true source has + been forgotten. + </p> + <p> + In every tribe in whose country I have been stationed, which comprises + nearly all the continent excepting the extreme southwestern portion, his + pipe is the Indian's constant companion through life. It is his messenger + of peace; he pledges his friends through its stem and its bowl, and when + he is dead, it has a place in his solitary grave, with his war-club and + arrows—companions on his journey to his long-fancied beautiful + hunting-grounds. The pipe of peace is a sacred thing; so held by all + Indian nations, and kept in possession of chiefs, to be smoked only at + times of peacemaking. When the terms of treaty have been agreed upon, this + sacred emblem, the stem of which is ornamented with eagle's quills, is + brought forward, and the solemn pledge to keep the peace is passed through + the sacred stem by each chief and warrior drawing the smoke once through + it. After the ceremony is over, the warriors of the two tribes unite in + the dance, with the pipe of peace held in the left hand of the chief and + in his other a rattle. + </p> + <p> + Thousands of years ago, the primitive savage of the American continent + carried masses of pipe-stone from the sacred quarry in Minnesota across + the vast wilderness of plains, to trade with the people of the far + Southwest, over the same route that long afterward became the Santa Fe + Trail; therefore, it will be consistent with the character of this work to + relate the history of the quarry from which all the tribes procured their + material for fashioning their pipes, and the curious legends connected + with it. I have met with the red sandstone pipes on the remotest portions + of the Pacific coast, and east, west, north and south, in every tribe that + it has been my fortune to know. + </p> + <p> + The word "Dakotah" means allied or confederated, and is the family name + now comprising some thirty bands, numbering about thirty thousand Indians. + They are generally designated Sioux, but that title is seldom willingly + acknowledged by them. It was first given to them by the French, though its + original interpretation is by no means clear. The accepted theory, because + it is the most plausible, is that it is a corruption or rather an + abbreviation of "Nadouessioux," a Chippewa word for enemies. + </p> + <p> + Many of the Sioux are semi-civilized; some are "blanket-Indians," so + called, but there are no longer any murderous or predatory bands, and all + save a few stragglers are on the reservations. From 1812 to 1876, more + than half a century, they were the scourge of the West and the Northwest, + but another outbreak is highly improbable. They once occupied the vast + region included between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and were + always migratory in their methods of living. Over fifty years ago, when + the whites first became acquainted with them, they were divided into + nearly fifty bands of families, each with its separate chief, but all + acknowledging a superior chief to whom they were subordinate. They were at + that time the happiest and most wealthy tribe on the continent, regarded + from an Indian standpoint; but then the great plains were stocked with + buffalo and wild horses, and that fact alone warrants the assertion of + contentment and riches. No finer-looking tribe existed; they could then + muster more than ten thousand warriors, every one of whom would measure + six feet, and all their movements were graceful and elastic. + </p> + <p> + According to their legends, they came from the Pacific and encountered the + Algonquins about the head waters of the Mississippi, where they were held + in check, a portion of them, however, pushing on through their enemies and + securing a foothold on the shores of Lake Michigan. This bold band was + called by the Chippewas Winnebagook (men-from-the-salt-water). In their + original habitat on the great northern plains was located the celebrated + "red pipe-stone quarry," a relatively limited area, owned by all tribes, + but occupied permanently by none; a purely neutral ground—so + designated by the Great Spirit—where no war could possibly occur, + and where mortal enemies might meet to procure the material for their + pipes, but the hatchet was invariably buried during that time on the + consecrated spot. + </p> + <p> + The quarry has long since passed out of the control and jurisdiction of + the Indians and is not included in any of their reservations, though near + the Sisseton agency. It is located on the summit of the high divide + between the Missouri and St. Peter's rivers in Minnesota, at a point not + far from where the ninety-seventh meridian of longitude (from Greenwich) + intersects the forty-fifth parallel of latitude. The divide was named by + the French Coteau des Prairies, and the quarry is near its southern + extremity. Not a tree or bush could be seen from the majestic mound when I + last was there, some twenty years ago—nothing but the apparently + interminable plains, until they were lost in the deep blue of the horizon. + </p> + <p> + The luxury of smoking appears to have been known to all the tribes on the + continent in their primitive state, and they indulge in the habit to + excess; any one familiar with their life can assert that the American + savage smokes half of his time. Where so much attention is given to a mere + pleasure, it naturally follows that he would devote his leisure and + ingenuity to the construction of his pipe. The bowls of these were, from + time immemorial, made of the peculiar red stone from the famous quarry + referred to, which, until only a little over fifty years ago, was never + visited by a white man, its sanctity forbidding any such sacrilege. + </p> + <p> + That the spot should have been visited for untold centuries by all the + Indian nations, who hid their weapons as they approached it, under fear of + the vengeance of the Great Spirit, will not seem strange when the religion + of the race is understood. One of the principal features of the quarry is + a perpendicular wall of granite about thirty feet high, facing the west, + and nearly two miles long. At the base of the wall there is a level + prairie, running parallel to it, half a mile wide. Under this strip of + land, after digging through several slaty layers of rock, the red + sandstone is found. Old graves, fortifications, and excavations abound, + all confirmatory of the traditions clustering around the weird place. + </p> + <p> + Within a few rods of the base of the wall is a group of immense gneiss + boulders, five in number, weighing probably many hundred tons each, and + under these are two holes in which two imaginary old women reside—the + guardian spirits of the quarry—who were always consulted before any + pipe-stone could be dug up. The veneration for this group of boulders was + something wonderful; not a spear of grass was broken or bent by his feet + within sixty or seventy paces from them, where the trembling Indian + halted, and throwing gifts to them in humble supplication, solicited + permission to dig and take away the red stone for his pipes. + </p> + <p> + Near this spot, too, on a high mound, was the "Thunder's nest," where a + very small bird sat upon her eggs during fair weather. When the skies were + rent with thunder at the approach of a storm, she was hatching her brood, + which caused the terrible commotion in the heavens. The bird was eternal. + The "medicine men" claimed that they had often seen her, and she was about + as large as a little finger. Her mate was a serpent whose fiery tongue + destroyed the young ones as soon as they were born, and the awful noise + accompanying the act darted through the clouds. + </p> + <p> + On the wall of rocks at the quarry are thousands of inscriptions and + paintings, the totems and arms of various tribes who have visited there; + but no idea can be formed of their antiquity. + </p> + <p> + Of the various traditions of the many tribes, I here present a few. The + Great Spirit at a remote period called all the Indian nations together at + this place, and, standing on the brink of the precipice of red-stone rock, + broke from its walls a piece and fashioned a pipe by simply turning it in + his hands. He then smoked over them to the north, the south, the east, and + the west, and told them the stone was red, that it was their flesh, that + they must use it for their pipes of peace, that it belonged to all alike, + and that the war-club and scalping-knife must never be raised on its + ground. At the last whiff of his pipe his head went into a great cloud, + and the whole surface of the ledge for miles was melted and glazed; two + great ovens were opened beneath, and two women—the guardian spirits + of the place—entered them in a blaze of fire, and they are heard + there yet answering to the conjurations of the medicine men, who consult + them when they visit the sacred place. + </p> + <p> + The legend of the Knis-te-neu's tribe (Crees), a very small band in the + British possessions, in relation to the quarry is this: In the time of a + great freshet that occurred years ago and destroyed all the nations of the + earth, every tribe of Indians assembled on the top of the Coteau des + Prairies to get out of the way of the rushing and seething waters. When + they had arrived there from all parts of the world, the water continued to + rise until it covered them completely, forming one solid mass of drowned + Indians, and their flesh was converted by the Great Spirit into red + pipe-stone; therefore, it was always considered neutral ground, belonging + to all tribes alike, and all were to make their pipes out of it and smoke + together. While they were drowning together, a young woman, Kwaptan, a + virgin, caught hold of the foot of a very large bird that was flying over + at the time, and was carried to the top of a hill that was not far away + and above the water. There she had twins, their father being the war-eagle + that had carried her off, and her children have since peopled the earth. + The pipe-stone, which is the flesh of their ancestors, is smoked by them + as the symbol of peace, and the eagle quills decorate the heads of their + warriors. + </p> + <p> + Severed about seven or eight feet from the main wall of the quarry by some + convulsion of nature ages ago, there is an immense column just equal in + height to the wall, seven feet in diameter and beautifully polished on its + top and sides. It is called The Medicine, or Leaping Rock, and + considerable nerve is required to jump on it from the main ledge and back + again. Many an Indian's heart, in the past, has sighed for the honour of + the feat without daring to attempt it. A few, according to the records of + the tribes, have tried it with success, and left their arrows standing up + in its crevice; others have made the leap and reached its slippery surface + only to slide off, and suffer instant death on the craggy rocks in the + awful chasm below. Every young man of the many tribes was ambitious to + perform the feat, and those who had successfully accomplished it were + permitted to boast of it all their lives. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. TRAPPERS. + </h2> + <p> + The initial opening of the trade with New Mexico from the Missouri River, + as has been related, was not direct to Santa Fe. The limited number of + pack-trains at first passed to the north of the Raton Range, and travelled + to the Spanish settlements in the valley of Taos. + </p> + <p> + On this original Trail, where now is situated the beautiful city of + Pueblo, the second place of importance in Colorado, there was a little + Indian trading-post called "the Pueblo," from which the present thriving + place derives its name. The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad + practically follows the same route that the traders did to reach Pueblo, + as it also does that which the freight caravans later followed from the + Missouri River direct to Santa Fe. + </p> + <p> + The old Pueblo fort, as nearly as can be determined now, was built as + early as 1840, or not later than 1842, and, as one authority asserts, by + George Simpson and his associates, Barclay and Doyle. Beckwourth claims to + have been the original projector of the fort, and to have given the + general plan and its name, in which I am inclined to believe that he is + correct; perhaps Barclay, Doyle, and Simpson were connected with him, as + he states that there were other trappers, though he mentions no names. It + was a square fort of adobe, with circular bastions at the corners, no part + of the walls being more than eight feet high. Around the inside of the + plaza, or corral, were half a dozen small rooms inhabited by as many + Indian traders and mountain-men. + </p> + <p> + One of the earlier Indian agents, Mr. Fitzpatrick, in writing from Bent's + Fort in 1847, thus describes the old Pueblo:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + About seventy-five miles above this place, and immediately + on the Arkansas River, there is a small settlement, chiefly + composed of old trappers and hunters; the male part of it + are mostly Americans (Missourians), French Canadians, and + Mexicans. It numbers about one hundred and fifty, and of + this number about sixty men have wives, and some have two. + These wives are of various Indian tribes, as follows; viz. + Blackfeet, Assiniboines, Sioux, Arapahoes, Cheyennes, + Snakes, and Comanches. The American women are Mormons, + a party of Mormons having wintered there, and then departed + for California. +</pre> + <p> + The old trappers and hunters of the Pueblo fort lived entirely upon game, + and a greater part of the year without bread. As soon as their supply of + meat was exhausted, they started to the mountains with two or three + pack-animals, and brought back in two or three days loads of venison and + buffalo. + </p> + <p> + The Arkansas at the Pueblo is a clear, rapid river about a hundred yards + wide. The bottom, which is enclosed on each side by high bluffs, is about + a quarter of a mile across. In the early days of which I write, the margin + of the stream was heavily timbered with cottonwood, and the tourist to-day + may see the remnant of the primitive great woods, in the huge isolated + trees scattered around the bottom in the vicinity of the Atchison, Topeka, + and Santa Fe Railroad station of the charming mountain city. + </p> + <p> + On each side vast rolling prairies stretch away for hundreds of miles, + gradually ascending on the side towards the mountains, where the highlands + are sparsely covered with pinyon and cedar. The lofty banks through which + the Arkansas occasionally passes are of shale and sandstone, rising + precipitously from the water. Ascending the river the country is wild and + broken, until it enters the mountain region, where the scenery is + incomparably grand and imposing. The surrounding prairies are naturally + arid and sterile, producing but little vegetation, and the primitive + grass, though of good quality, is thin and scarce. Now, however, under a + competent system of irrigation, the whole aspect of the landscape is + changed from what it was thirty years ago, and it has all the luxuriance + of a garden. + </p> + <p> + The whole country, it is claimed, was once possessed by the Shos-shones, + or Snake Indians, of whom the Comanches of the Southern plains are a + branch; and, although many hundred miles divide their hunting-grounds, + they were once, if not the same people, tribes or bands of that great and + powerful nation. They retain a language in common, and there is also a + striking analogy in many of their religious rites and ceremonies, in their + folk-lore, and in some of their everyday customs. These facts prove, at + least, that there was at one time a very close alliance which bound the + two tribes together. Half a century ago they were, in point of numbers, + the two most powerful nations in all the numerous aggregations of Indians + in the West; the Comanches ruling almost supreme on the Eastern plains, + while the Shos-shones were the dominant tribe in the country beyond the + Rocky Mountains, and in the mountains themselves. Once, many years ago, + before the problem of the relative strength of the various tribes was as + well solved as now, the Shos-shones were supposed to be the most powerful, + and numerically the most populous, tribe of Indians on the North American + continent. + </p> + <p> + In the immediate vicinity of the old Pueblo fort at the time of its + greatest business prosperity, game was scarce; the buffalo had for some + years deserted the neighbouring prairies, but they were always to be found + in the mountain-valleys, particularly in one known as "Bayou Salado," + which forty-five years ago abounded in elk, bear, deer, and antelope. + </p> + <p> + The fort was situated a few hundred yards above the mouth of the "Fontaine + qui Bouille" River,<a href="#linknote-47" name="linknoteref-47" + id="linknoteref-47"><small>47</small></a> so called from two springs of + mineral water near its head, under Pike's Peak, about sixty miles above + its mouth. + </p> + <p> + As is the case with all the savage races of the world, the American + Indians possess hereditary legends, accounting for all the phenomena of + nature, or any occurrence which is beyond their comprehension. The + Shos-shones had the following story to account for the presence of these + wonderful springs in the midst of their favourite hunting-ground. The two + fountains, one pouring forth the sweetest water imaginable, the other a + stream as bitter as gall, are intimately connected with the cause of the + separation of the two tribes. Their legend thus runs: Many hundreds of + winters ago, when the cottonwoods on the big river were no higher than + arrows, and the prairies were crowded with game, the red men who hunted + the deer in the forests and the buffalo on the plains all spoke the same + language, and the pipe of peace breathed its soothing cloud whenever two + parties of hunters met on the boundless prairie. + </p> + <p> + It happened one day that two hunters of different nations met on the bank + of a small rivulet, to which both had resorted to quench their thirst. A + small stream of water, rising from a spring on a rock within a few feet of + the bank, trickled over it and fell splashing into the river. One hunter + sought the spring itself; the other, tired by his exertions in the chase, + threw himself at once to the ground, and plunged his face into the running + stream. + </p> + <p> + The latter had been unsuccessful in the hunt, and perhaps his bad fortune, + and the sight of the fat deer which the other threw from his back before + he drank at the crystal spring, caused a feeling of jealousy and + ill-humour to take possession of his mind. The other, on the contrary, + before he satisfied his thirst, raised in the hollow of his hand a portion + of the water, and, lifting it toward the sun, reversed his hand, and + allowed it to fall upon the ground, as a libation to the Great Spirit, who + had vouch-safed him a successful hunt and the blessing of the refreshing + water with which he was about to quench his thirst. + </p> + <p> + This reminder that he had neglected the usual offering only increased the + feeling of envy and annoyance which filled the unsuccessful hunter's + heart. The Evil Spirit at that moment entering his body, his temper fairly + flew away, and he sought some pretence to provoke a quarrel with the other + Indian. + </p> + <p> + "Why does a stranger," he asked, rising from the stream, "drink at the + spring-head, when one to whom the fountain belongs contents himself with + the water that runs from it?" + </p> + <p> + "The Great Spirit places the cool water at the spring," answered the other + hunter, "that his children may drink it pure and undefiled. The running + water is for the beasts which scour the plains. Ausaqua is a chief of the + Shos-shones; he drinks at the head water." + </p> + <p> + "The Shos-shones is but a tribe of the Comanches," returned the other: + "Wacomish leads the whole nation. Why does a Shos-shone dare to drink + above him?" + </p> + <p> + "When the Manitou made his children, whether Shos-shone or Comanche, + Arapaho, Cheyenne, or Pawnee, he gave them buffalo to eat, and the pure + water of the fountain to quench their thirst. He said not to one, 'Drink + here,' and to another, 'Drink there'; but gave the crystal spring to all, + that all might drink." + </p> + <p> + Wacomish almost burst with rage as the other spoke; but his coward heart + prevented him from provoking an encounter with the calm Shos-shone. The + latter, made thirsty by the words he had spoken—for the Indian is + ever sparing of his tongue—again stooped down to the spring to + drink, when the subtle warrior of the Comanches suddenly threw himself + upon the kneeling hunter and, forcing his head into the bubbling water, + held him down with all his strength until his victim no longer struggled; + his stiffened limbs relaxed, and he fell forward over the spring, drowned. + </p> + <p> + Mechanically the Comanche dragged the body a few paces from the water, + and, as soon as the head of the dead Indian was withdrawn, the spring was + suddenly and strangely disturbed. Bubbles sprang up from the bottom, and, + rising to the surface, escaped in hissing gas. A thin vapour arose, and, + gradually dissolving, displayed to the eyes of the trembling murderer the + figure of an aged Indian, whose long, snowy hair and venerable beard, + blown aside from his breast, discovered the well-known totem of the great + Wankanaga, the father of the Comanche and Shos-shone nation. + </p> + <p> + Stretching out a war-club toward the Comanche, the figure thus addressed + him:— + </p> + <p> + "Accursed murderer! While the blood of the brave Shos-shone cries to the + Great Spirit for vengeance, may the water of thy tribe be rank and bitter + in their throats!" Thus saying, and swinging his ponderous war-club round + his head, he dashed out the brains of the Comanche, who fell headlong into + the spring, which from that day to this remains rank and nauseous, so that + not even when half dead with thirst, can one drink from it. + </p> + <p> + The good Wankanaga, however, to perpetuate the memory of the Shos-shone + warrior, who was renowned in his tribe for valour and nobleness of heart, + struck with the same avenging club a hard, flat rock which overhung the + rivulet, and forthwith a round clear basin opened, which instantly filled + with bubbling, sparkling water, sweet and cool. + </p> + <p> + From that day the two mighty tribes of the Shos-shones and Comanches have + remained severed and apart, although a long and bloody war followed the + treacherous murder. + </p> + <p> + The Indians regarded these wonderful springs with awe. The Arapahoes, + especially, attributed to the Spirit of the springs the power of ordaining + the success or failure of their war expeditions. As their warriors passed + by the mysterious pools when hunting their hereditary enemies, the Utes, + they never failed to bestow their votive offerings upon the spring, in + order to propitiate the Manitou of the strange fountain, and insure a + fortunate issue to their path of war. As late as twenty-five years ago, + the visitor to the place could always find the basin of the spring filled + with beads and wampum, pieces of red cloth and knives, while the + surrounding trees were hung with strips of deerskin, cloth, and moccasins. + Signs were frequently observed in the vicinity of the waters unmistakably + indicating that a war-dance had been executed there by the Arapahoes on + their way to the Valley of Salt, occupied by the powerful Utes. + </p> + <p> + Never was there such a paradise for hunters as this lone and solitary spot + in the days when the region was known only to them and the trappers of the + great fur companies. The shelving prairie, at the bottom of which the + springs are situated, is entirely surrounded by rugged mountains and + contained two or three acres of excellent grass, affording a safe pasture + for their animals, which hardly cared to wander from such feeding and the + salt they loved to lick. + </p> + <p> + The trappers of the Rocky Mountains belonged to a genus that has + disappeared. Forty years ago there was not a hole or corner in the vast + wilderness of the far West that had not been explored by these hardy men. + From the Mississippi to the mouth of the Colorado of the West, from the + frozen regions of the north to the Gila in Mexico, the beaver hunter has + set his traps in every creek and stream. The mountains and waters, in many + instances, still retain the names assigned them by those rude hunters, who + were veritable pioneers paving the way for the settlement of the stern + country. + </p> + <p> + A trapper's camp in the old days was quite a picture, as were all its + surroundings. He did not always take the trouble to build a shelter, + unless in the winter. A couple of deerskins stretched over a willow frame + was considered sufficient to protect him from the storm. Sometimes he + contented himself with a mere "breakwind," the rocky wall of a canyon, or + large ravine. Near at hand he set up two poles, in the crotch of which + another was laid, where he kept, out of reach of the hungry wolf and + coyote, his meat, consisting of every variety afforded by the region in + which he had pitched his camp. Under cover of the skins of the animals he + had killed hung his old-fashioned powder-horn and bullet-pouch, while his + trusty rifle, carefully defended from the damp, was always within reach of + his hand. Round his blazing fire at night his companions, if he had any, + were other trappers on the same stream; and, while engaged in cleaning + their arms, making and mending moccasins, or running bullets, they told + long yarns, until the lateness of the hour warned them to crawl under + their blankets. + </p> + <p> + Not far from the camp, his animals, well hobbled, fed in sight; for + nothing did a hunter dread more than a visit from horse-stealing Indians, + and to be afoot was the acme of misery. + </p> + <p> + Some hunters who had married squaws carried about with them regular + buffalo-skin lodges, which their wives took care of, according to Indian + etiquette. + </p> + <p> + The old-time trappers more nearly approximated the primitive savage, + perhaps, than any other class of civilized men. Their lives being spent in + the remote wilderness of the mountains, frequently with no other companion + than Nature herself, their habits and character often assumed a most + singular cast of simplicity, mingled with ferocity, that appeared to take + its colouring from the scenes and objects which surrounded them. Having no + wants save those of nature, their sole concern was to provide sufficient + food to support life, and the necessary clothing to protect them from the + sometimes rigorous climate. + </p> + <p> + The costume of the average trapper was a hunting-shirt of dressed + buckskin, with long, fringed trousers of the same material, decorated with + porcupine quills. A flexible hat and moccasins covered his extremities, + and over his left shoulder and under his right arm hung his powder-horn + and bullet-pouch, in which he also carried flint, steel, and other odds + and ends. Round his waist he wore a belt, in which was stuck a large knife + in a sheath of buffalo-hide, made fast to the belt by a chain or guard of + steel. It also supported a little buckskin case, which contained a + whetstone, a very necessary article; for in taking off the hides of the + beaver a sharp knife was required. His pipe-holder hung around his neck, + and was generally a gage d'amour, a triumph of squaw workmanship, wrought + with beads and porcupine quills, often made in the shape of a heart. + </p> + <p> + Necessarily keen observers of nature, they rivalled the beasts of prey in + discovering the haunts and habits of game, and in their skill and cunning + in capturing it outwitted the Indian himself. Constantly exposed to perils + of all kinds, they became callous to any feeling of danger, and were firm + friends or bitter enemies. It was a "word and a blow," the blow often + coming first. Strong, active, hardy as bears, expert in the use of their + weapons, they were just what an uncivilized white man might be supposed to + be under conditions where he must depend upon his instincts for the + support of life. + </p> + <p> + Having determined upon the locality of his trapping-ground, the hunter + started off, sometimes alone, sometimes three or four of them in company, + as soon as the breaking of the ice in the streams would permit, if he was + to go very far north. Arriving on the spot he has selected for his + permanent camp, the first thing to be done, after he had settled himself, + was to follow the windings of the creeks and rivers, keeping a sharp + lookout for "signs." If he saw a prostrate cottonwood tree, he carefully + examined it to learn whether it was the work of beaver, and if so whether + thrown for the purpose of food, or to dam the stream. The track of the + animal on the mud or sand under the banks was also examined; if the sign + was fresh, he set his trap in the run of the animal, hiding it under + water, and attaching it by a stout chain to a picket driven in the bank, + or to a bush or tree. A float-stick was made fast to the trap by a cord a + few feet long, which, if the animal carried away the trap, would float on + the water and point out its position. The trap was baited with "medicine," + an oily substance obtained from the beaver. A stick was dipped in this and + planted over the trap, and the beaver, attracted by the smell, put his leg + into the trap and was caught. + </p> + <p> + When a beaver lodge was discovered, the trap was set at the edge of the + dam, at a point where the animal passed from deep to shoal water, and + always under the surface. Early in the morning, the hunter mounted his + mule and examined all his traps. + </p> + <p> + The beaver is exceedingly wily, and if by scent or sound or sight he had + any intimation of the presence of a trapper, he put at defiance all + efforts to capture him, consequently it was necessary to practise great + caution when in the neighbourhood of one of their lodges. The trapper then + avoided riding for fear the sound of his horse's feet might strike dismay + among the furry inhabitants under the water, and, instead of walking on + the ground, he waded in the stream, lest he should leave a scent behind by + which he might be discovered. + </p> + <p> + In the days of the great fur companies, trappers were of two kinds—the + hired hand and the free trapper. The former was hired by the company, + which supplied him with everything necessary, and paid him a certain price + for his furs and peltries. The other hunted on his own hook, owned his + animals and traps, went where he pleased, and sold to whom he chose. + </p> + <p> + During the hunting season, regardless of the Indians, the fearless trapper + wandered far and near in search of signs. His nerves were in a state of + tension, his mind always clear, and his head cool. His trained eye + scrutinized every part of the country, and in an instant he could detect + anything that was strange. A turned leaf, a blade of grass pressed down, + the uneasiness of wild animals, the actions of the birds, were all to him + paragraphs written in Nature's legible hand. + </p> + <p> + All the wits of the wily savage were called into play to gain an advantage + over the plucky white man; but with the resources natural to a civilized + mind, the hunter seldom failed, under equal chance, to circumvent the + cunning of the red man. Sometimes, following his trail for weeks, the + Indian watched him set his traps on some timbered stream, and crawling up + the bed of it, so that he left no tracks, he lay in the bushes until his + victim came to examine his traps. Then, when he approached within a few + feet of the ambush, whiz! flew the home-drawn arrow, which never failed at + such close quarters to bring the unsuspecting hunter to the ground. But + for one white scalp that dangled in the smoke of an Indian's lodge, a + dozen black ones, at the end of the season, ornamented the camp-fires of + the rendezvous where the furs were sold. + </p> + <p> + In the camp, if he was a very successful hunter, all the appliances for + preparing the skins for market were at hand; if he had a squaw for a wife, + she did all the hard work, as usual. Close to the entrance of their skin + lodge was the "graining-block," a log of wood with the bark stripped off + and perfectly smooth, set obliquely in the ground, on which the hair was + removed from the deerskins which furnished moccasins and dresses for both + herself and her husband. Then there were stretching frames on which the + skins were placed to undergo the process of "dubbing"; that is, the + removal of all flesh and fatty particles adhering to the skin. The + "dubber" was made of the stock of an elk's horn, with a piece of iron or + steel inserted in the end, forming a sharp knife. The last process the + deerskin underwent before it was soft and pliable enough for making into + garments, was the "smoking." This was effected by digging a round hole in + the ground, and lighting in it an armful of rotten wood or punk; then + sticks were planted around the hole, and their tops brought together and + tied. The skins were placed on this frame, and all openings by which the + smoke might escape being carefully stopped, in ten or twelve hours they + were thoroughly cured and ready for immediate use. + </p> + <p> + The beaver was the main object of the hunter's quest; its skins were once + worth from six to eight dollars a pound; then they fell to only one + dollar, which hardly paid the expenses of traps, animals, and equipment + for the hunt, and was certainly no adequate remuneration for the + hardships, toil, and danger undergone by the trappers. + </p> + <p> + The beaver was once found in every part of North America, from Canada to + the Gulf of Mexico, but has so retired from the encroachments of civilized + man, that it is only to be met with occasionally on some tributary to the + remote mountain streams. + </p> + <p> + The old trappers always aimed to set their traps so that the beaver would + drown when taken. This was accomplished by sinking the trap several inches + under water, and driving a stake through a ring on the end of the chain + into the bottom of the creek. When the beaver finds himself caught, he + pitches and plunges about until his strength is exhausted, when he sinks + down and is drowned, but if he succeeds in getting to the shore, he always + extricates himself by gnawing off the leg that is in the jaws of the trap. + </p> + <p> + The captured animals were skinned, and the tails, which are a great + dainty, carefully packed into camp. The skin was then stretched over a + hoop or framework of willow twigs and allowed to dry, the flesh and fatty + substance adhering being first carefully scraped off. When dry, it was + folded into a square sheet, the fur turned inwards, and the bundle, + containing twenty skins, tightly pressed and tied, was ready for + transportation. The beaver after the hide is taken off weighs about twelve + pounds, and its flesh, although a little musky, is very fine. Its tail + which is flat and oval in shape, is covered with scales about the size of + those of a salmon. It was a great delicacy in the estimation of the old + trapper; he separated it from the body, thrust a stick in one end of it, + and held it before the fire with the scales on. In a few moments large + blisters rose on the surface, which were very easily removed. The tail was + then perfectly white, and delicious. Next to the tail the liver was + another favourite of the trapper, and when properly cooked it constituted + a delightful repast. + </p> + <p> + After the season was over, or the hunter had loaded all his pack-animals, + he proceeded to the "rendezvous," where the buyers were to congregate for + the purchase of the fur, the locality of which had been agreed upon when + the hunters started out on their expedition. One of these was at Bent's + old fort and one at Pueblo; another at "Brown's Hole" on Green River, and + there were many more on the great streams and in the mountains. There the + agents of the fur companies and traders waited for the arrival of the + trappers, with such an assortment of goods as the hardy men required, + including, of course, an immense supply of whiskey. The trappers dropped + in day after day, in small bands, packing their loads of beaver-skins, not + infrequently to the value of a thousand dollars each, the result of one + hunt. + </p> + <p> + The rendezvous was frequently a continuous scene of gambling, brawling, + and fighting, so long as the improvident trapper's money lasted. Seated + around the large camp-fires, cross-legged in Indian fashion, with a + blanket or buffalo-robe spread before them, groups were playing cards—euchre, + seven-up, and poker, the regular mountain games. The usual stakes were + beaver-skins, which were current as coin. When their fur was all gone, + their horses, mules, rifles, shirts, hunting packs, and trousers were + staked. Daring professional gamblers made the rounds of the camps, + challenging each other to play for the trapper's highest stakes—his + horse, or his squaw, if he had one—and it is told of one great time + that two old trappers played for one another's scalps! "There goes hoss + and beaver," was a common mountain expression when any severe loss was + sustained, and shortly "hoss and beaver" found their way into the pockets + of the unconscionable gamblers. + </p> + <p> + Frequently a trapper would squander the entire product of his hunt, + amounting to hundreds of dollars, in a couple of hours. Then, supplied + with another outfit, he left the rendezvous for another expedition, which + had the same result time after time, although one good hunt would have + enabled him to return to the settlements and live a life of comparative + ease. + </p> + <p> + It is told of one old Canadian trapper, who had received as much as + fifteen thousand dollars for beaver during his life in the mountains, + extending over twenty years, that each season he had resolved in his mind + to go back to Canada, and with this object in view always converted his + furs into cash; but a fortnight at the rendezvous always "cleaned him + out," and at the end of the twenty years he had not even enough credit to + get a plug of tobacco. + </p> + <p> + Trading with the Indians in the primitive days of the border was just what + the word signifies in its radical interpretation—a system of barter + exclusively. No money was used in the transaction, as it was long + afterward before the savages began to learn something of the value of + currency from their connection with the sutler's and agency stores + established on reservations and at military posts on the plains and in the + mountains. In the early days, if an Indian by any chance happened to get + possession of a piece of money (only gold or silver was recognized as a + medium of exchange in the remote West), he would immediately fashion it + into some kind of an ornament with which to adorn his person. Some tribes, + however, did indulge in a sort of currency, worthless except among + themselves. This consisted of rare shells, such as the Oligachuck, so + called, of the Pacific coast nations, used by them within my own + recollection, as late as 1858. + </p> + <p> + The poor Indian, as might have been expected, was generally outrageously + swindled; in fact, I am inclined to believe, always. I never was present + on an occasion when he was not. + </p> + <p> + The savage's idea of values was very crude until the government, in + attempting to civilize and make a gentleman of him, has transformed him + into a bewildered child. Very soon after his connection with the white + trader, he learned that a gun was more valuable than a knife; but of their + relative cost to manufacture he had no idea. For these reasons, obviously, + he was always at the mercy of the unscrupulous trader who came to his + village, or met him at the rendezvous to barter for his furs. I know that + the price of every article he desired was fixed by the trader, and never + by the Indian, consequently he rarely got the best of the bargain. + </p> + <p> + Uncle John Smith, Kit Carson, L. B. Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, and a host + of other well-known Indian traders, long since dead, have often told me + that the first thing they did on entering a village with a pack-load of + trinkets to barter, in the earlier days before the whites had encroached + to any great extent, was to arrange a schedule of prices. They would + gather a large number of sticks, each one representing an article they had + brought. With these crude symbols the Indian made himself familiar in a + little while, and when this preliminary arrangement had been completed, + the trading began. The Indian, for instance, would place a buffalo-robe on + the ground; then the trader commenced to lay down a number of the sticks, + representing what he was willing to give for the robe. The Indian revolved + the transaction in his mind until he thought he was getting a fair + equivalent according to his ideas, then the bargain was made. It was + claimed by these old traders, when they related this to me, that the + savage generally was not satisfied, always insisting upon having more + sticks placed on the pile. I suspect, however, that the trader was ever + prepared for this, and never gave more than he originally intended. The + price of that initial robe having been determined on, it governed the + price of all the rest for the whole trade, regardless of size or fineness, + for that day. What was traded for was then placed by the Indian on one + side of the lodge, and the trader put what he was to give on the other. + After prices had been agreed upon, business went on very rapidly, and many + thousand dollars' worth of valuable furs were soon collected by the + successful trader, which he shipped to St. Louis and converted into gold. + </p> + <p> + In a few years, relatively, the Indian began to appreciate the value of + our medium of exchange and the power it gave him to secure at the stores + in the widely scattered hamlets and at the military posts on the plains, + those things he coveted, at a fairer equivalent than in the uncertain and + complicated method of direct barter. It was not very long after the advent + of the overland coaches on the Santa Fe Trail, that our currency, even the + greenbacks, had assumed a value to the savage, which he at least partially + understood. Whenever the Indians successfully raided the stages the mail + sacks were no longer torn to pieces or thrown aside as worthless, but + every letter was carefully scrutinized for possible bills. + </p> + <p> + I well remember, when the small copper cent, with its spread eagle upon + it, was first issued, about the year 1857, how the soldiers of a frontier + garrison where I was stationed at the time palmed them off upon the simple + savages as two dollar and a half gold pieces, which they resembled as long + as they retained their brightness, and with which the Indians were + familiar, as many were received by the troops from the paymaster every two + months, the savages receiving them in turn for horses and other things + purchased of them by the soldiers. + </p> + <p> + I have known of Indians who gave nuggets of gold for common calico shirts + costing two dollars in that region and seventy-five cents in the States, + while the lump of precious metal was worth, perhaps, five or seven + dollars. As late as twenty-eight years ago, I have traded for beautifully + smoke-tanned and porcupine-embroidered buffalo-robes for my own use, + giving in exchange a mere loaf of bread or a cupful of brown sugar. + </p> + <p> + Very early in the history of the United States, in 1786, the government, + under the authority of Congress, established a plan of trade with the + Indians. It comprised supplying all their physical wants without profit; + factories, or stations as they were called, were erected at points that + were then on the remote frontier; where factors, clerks, and interpreters + were stationed. The factors furnished goods of all kinds to the Indians, + and received from them in exchange furs and peltries. There was an officer + in charge of all these stations called the superintendent of Indian trade, + appointed by the President. As far back as 1821, there were stations at + Prairie du Chien, Fort Edward, Fort Osage, with branches at Chicago, Green + Bay in Arkansas, on the Red River, and other places in the then far West. + These stations were movable, and changed from time to time to suit the + convenience of the Indians. In 1822 the whole system was abolished by act + of Congress, and its affairs wound up, the American Fur Company, the + Missouri Fur Company, and a host of others having by that time become + powerful. Like the great corporations of to-day, they succeeded in + supplanting the government establishments. Of course, the Indians of the + remote plains, which included all the vast region west of the Missouri + River, never had the benefits of the government trading establishments, + but were left to the tender mercies of the old plainsmen and trappers. + </p> + <p> + Until the railroad reached the mountains, when the march of a wonderful + immigration closely followed, usurping the lands claimed by the savages, + and the latter were driven, perforce, upon reservations, the winter camps + of the Kiowas, Arapahoes, and Cheyennes were strung along the Old Trail + for miles, wherever a belt of timber on the margin of the Arkansas, or its + tributaries, could be found large enough to furnish fuel for domestic + purposes and cottonwood bark for the vast herds of ponies in the severe + snow-storms. + </p> + <p> + At these various points the Indians congregated to trade with the whites. + As stated, Bent's Fort, the Pueblo Fort, and Big Timbers were favourite + resorts, and the trappers and old hunters passed a lively three or four + months every year, indulging in the amusements I have referred to. They + were also wonderful story-tellers, and around their camp-fires many a tale + of terrible adventure with Indians and vicious animals was nightly + related. + </p> + <p> + Baptiste Brown was one of the most famous trappers. Few men had seen more + of wild life in the great prairie wilderness. He had hunted with nearly + every tribe of Indians on the plains and in the mountains, was often at + Bent's Fort, and his soul-stirring narratives made him a most welcome + guest at the camp-fire. + </p> + <p> + He lived most of his time in the Wind River Mountains, in a beautiful + little valley named after him "Brown's Hole." It has a place on the maps + to-day, and is on what was then called Prairie River, or Sheetskadee, by + the Indians; it is now known as Green River, and is the source of the + great Colorado. + </p> + <p> + The valley, which is several thousand feet above the sea-level, is about + fifteen miles in circumference, surrounded by lofty hills, and is aptly, + though not elegantly, characterized as a "hole." The mountain-grass is of + the most nutritious quality; groves of cottonwood trees and willows are + scattered through the sequestered spot, and the river, which enters it + from the north, is a magnificent stream; in fact, it is the very ideal of + a hunter's headquarters. + </p> + <p> + The temperature is very equable, and at one time, years ago, hundreds of + trappers made it their winter quarters. Indians, too, of all the northern + tribes, but more especially the Arapahoes, frequented it to trade with the + white men. + </p> + <p> + Baptiste Brown was a Canadian who spoke villanous French and worse + English; his vocabulary being largely interspersed with "enfant de garce," + "sacre," "sacre enfant," and "damn" until it was a difficult matter to + tell what he was talking about. + </p> + <p> + He was married to an Arapahoe squaw, and his strange wooing and winning of + the dusky maiden is a thrilling love-story. + </p> + <p> + Among the maidens who came with the Arapahoes, when that tribe made a + visit to "Brown's Hole" one winter for the purpose of trading with the + whites, was a young, merry, and very handsome girl, named "Unami," who + after a few interviews completely captured Baptiste's heart. Nothing was + more common, as I have stated, than marriages between the trappers and a + beautiful redskin. Isolated absolutely from women of his own colour, the + poor mountaineer forgets he is white, which, considering the embrowning + influence of constant exposure and sunlight, is not so marvellous after + all. For a portion of the year there is no hunting, and then idleness is + the order of the day. At such times the mountaineer visits the lodges of + his dark neighbours for amusement, and in the spirited dance many a heart + is lost to the squaws. The young trapper, like other enamoured ones of his + sex in civilization, lingers around the house of his fair sweetheart while + she transforms the soft skin of the doe into moccasins, ornamenting them + richly with glittering beads or the coloured quills of the porcupine, all + the time lightening the long hours with the plain-songs of their tribe. It + was upon an occasion of this character that Baptiste, then in the prime of + his youthful manhood, first loved the dark-eyed Arapahoe. + </p> + <p> + The course open to him was to woo and win her; but alas! savage papas are + just like fathers in the best civilization—the only difference + between them is that the former are more open and matter-of-fact, since in + savage etiquette a consideration is required in exchange for the daughter, + which belongs exclusively to the parent, and must be of equal marketable + value to the girl. + </p> + <p> + The usual method is to select your best horse, take him to the lodge of + your inamorata's parents, tie him to a tree, and walk away. If the animal + is considered a fair exchange, matters are soon settled satisfactorily; if + not, other gifts must be added. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture poor Baptiste was in a bad fix; he had disposed of all + his season's earnings for his winter's subsistence, much of which + consisted of an ample supply of whiskey and tobacco; so he had nothing + left wherewith to purchase the indispensable horse. Without the animal no + wife was to be had, and he was in a terrible predicament; for the hunting + season was long since over, and it wanted a whole month of the time for a + new starting out. + </p> + <p> + Baptiste was a very determined man, however, and he shouldered his rifle, + intent on accomplishing by a laborious prosecution of the chase the means + of winning his loved one from her parents, notwithstanding that the + elements and the times were against him. He worked industriously, and + after many days was rewarded by a goodly supply of beavers, otters, and + mink which he had trapped, besides many a deerskin whose wearer he had + shot. Returning to his lodge, where he cached his peltry, he again started + out for the forest with hope filling his heart. Three weeks passed in + indifferent success, when one morning, having entered a deep canyon, which + evidently led out to an open prairie where he thought game might be found, + while busy cutting his way through a thicket of briers with his knife, he + suddenly came upon a little valley, where he saw what caused him to + retrace his footsteps into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + And here it is necessary to relate a custom peculiar to all Indian tribes. + No young man, though his father were the greatest chief in the nation, can + range himself among the warriors, be entitled to enter the marriage state, + or enjoy any other rights of savage citizenship until he shall have + performed some act of personal bravery and daring, or be sprinkled with + the blood of his enemies. In the early springtime, therefore, all the + young men who are of the proper age band themselves together and take to + the forest in search—like the knight-errant of old—of + adventure and danger. Having decided upon a secluded and secret spot, they + collect a number of poles from twenty to thirty feet in length, and, + lashing them together at the small ends, form a huge conical lodge, which + they cover with grass and boughs. Inside they deposit various articles, + with which to "make medicine," or as a propitiatory offering to the Great + Spirit; generally a green buffalo head, kettles, scalps, blankets, and + other things of value, of which the most prominent and revered is the + sacred pipe. The party then enters the lodge and the first ceremony is + smoking this pipe. One of the young men fills it with tobacco and herbs, + places a coal on it from the fire that has been already kindled in the + lodge, and, taking the stem in his mouth, inhales the smoke and expels it + through his nostrils. The ground is touched with the bowl, the four points + of the compass are in turn saluted, and with various ceremonies it makes + the round of the lodge. After many days of feasting and dancing the party + is ready for a campaign, when they abandon the lodge, and it is death for + any one else to enter, or by any means to desecrate it while its + projectors are absent. + </p> + <p> + It was upon one of these mystic lodges that Baptiste had accidentally + stumbled, and strange thoughts flashed through his mind; for within the + sacred place were articles, doubtless, of value more than sufficient to + purchase the necessary horse with which he could win the fair Unami. + Baptiste was sorely tempted, but there was an instinctive respect for + religion in the minds of the old trappers, and Brown had too much honour + to think of robbing the Indian temple, although he distinctly remembered a + time when a poor white trapper, having been robbed of his poncho at the + beginning of winter, made free with a blanket he had found in one of these + Arapahoe sacred lodges. When he was brought before the medicine men of the + tribe, charged with the sacrilege, his defence, that, having been robbed, + the Great Spirit took pity on him and pointed out the blanket and ordered + him to clothe himself, was considered good, on the theory that the Great + Spirit had an undoubted right to give away his own property; consequently + the trapper was set free. + </p> + <p> + Brown, after considering the case, was about to move away, when a hand was + laid on his shoulder, and turning round there stood before him an Indian + in full war-paint. + </p> + <p> + The greeting was friendly, for the young savage was the brother of + Baptiste's love, to whom he had given many valuable presents during the + past season. + </p> + <p> + "My white brother is very wakeful; he rises early." + </p> + <p> + Baptiste laughed, and replied: "Yes, because my lodge is empty. If I had + Unami for a wife, I would not have to get out before the sun; and I would + always have a soft seat for her brother; he will be a great warrior." + </p> + <p> + The young brave shook his head gravely, as he pointed to his belt, where + not a scalp was to be seen, and said: "Five moons have gone to sleep and + the Arapahoe hatchet has not been raised. The Blackfeet are dogs, and hide + in their holes." + </p> + <p> + Without adding anything to this hint that none of the young men had been + able to fulfil their vows, the disconsolate savage led the way to the camp + of the other Arapahoes, his companions in the quest for scalps. Baptiste + was very glad to see the face of a fellow-creature once more, and he + cheerfully followed the footsteps of the young brave, which were directed + away from the medicine lodge toward the rocky canyon which he had already + travelled that morning, where in the very centre of the dark defile, and + within twenty feet of where he had recently passed, was the camp of the + disappointed band. Baptiste was cordially received, and invited to share + the meal of which the party were about to partake, after which the pipe + was passed around. In a little while the Indians began to talk among + themselves by signs, which made Baptiste feel somewhat uncomfortable, for + it was apparent that he was the object of their interest. + </p> + <p> + They had argued that Brown's skin indicated that he belonged to the great + tribe of their natural enemies, and with the blood of a white on their + garments, they would have fulfilled the terms of their vow to their + friends and the Great Spirit. + </p> + <p> + Noticing the trend of the debate, which would lead his friend into + trouble, the brother of Unami arose, and waving his hand said:— + </p> + <p> + "The Arapahoe is a warrior; his feet outstrip the fleetest horse; his + arrow is as the lightning of the Great Spirit; he is very brave. But a + cloud is between him and the sun; he cannot see his enemy; there is yet no + scalp in his lodge. The Great Spirit is good; he sends a victim, a man + whose skin is white, but his heart is very red; the pale-face is a + brother, and his long knife is turned from his friends, the Arapahoes; but + the Great Spirit is all-powerful. My brother"—pointing to Baptiste—"is + very full of blood; he can spare a little to stain the blankets of the + young men, and his heart shall still be warm; I have spoken." + </p> + <p> + As Baptiste expressed it: "Sacre enfant de garce; damn, de ting vas agin + my grain, but de young Arapahoe he have saved my life." + </p> + <p> + Loud acclamation followed the speech of Unami's brother, and many of those + most clamorous against the white trapper, being actuated by the earnest + desire of returning home with their vow accomplished, when they would be + received into the list of warriors, and have wives and other honours, were + unanimous in agreeing to the proposed plan. + </p> + <p> + A flint lancet was produced, Baptiste's arm was bared, and the blood which + flowed from the slight wound was carefully distributed, and scattered over + the robes of the delighted Arapahoes. + </p> + <p> + The scene which followed was quite unexpected to Baptiste, who was only + glad to escape the death to which the majority had doomed him. The + Indians, perfectly satisfied that their vow of shedding an enemy's blood + had been fulfilled, were all gratitude; and to testify that gratitude in a + substantial manner each man sought his pack, and laid at the feet of the + surprised Baptiste a rich present. One gave an otter skin, another that of + a buffalo, and so on until his wealth in furs outstripped his most + sanguine expectations from his hunt. The brother of Unami stood passively + looking on until all the others had successively honoured his guest, when + he advanced toward Baptiste, leading by its bridle a magnificent horse, + fully caparisoned, and a large pack-mule. To refuse would have been the + most flagrant breach of Indian etiquette, and beside, Brown was too alive + to the advantage that would accrue to him to be other than very thankful. + </p> + <p> + The camp was then broken up, and the kind savages were soon lost to + Baptiste's sight as they passed down the canyon; and he, as soon as he had + gained a little strength, for he was weak from the blood he had shed in + the good cause, mounted his horse, after loading the mule with his gifts, + and made the best of his way to his lonely lodge, where he remained + several days. He then sold his furs at a good price, as it was so early in + the season, bartered for a large quantity of knives, beads, powder, and + balls, and returned to the Arapahoe village, where the horse was + considered a fair exchange for the pretty Unami; and from that day, for + over thirty years, they lived as happy as any couple in the highest + civilization. + </p> + <p> + The fate of the Pueblo, where the trappers and hunters had such good times + in the halcyon days of the border, like that which befell nearly all the + trading-posts and ranches on the Old Santa Fe Trail, was to be partially + destroyed by the savages. During the early months of the winter of 1854, + the Utes swept down through the Arkansas valley, leaving a track of blood + behind them, and frightening the settlers so thoroughly that many left the + country never to return. The outbreak was as sudden as it was devastating. + The Pueblo was captured by the savages, and every man, woman, and child in + it murdered, with the exception of one aged Mexican, and he was so badly + wounded that he died in a few days. + </p> + <p> + His story was that the Utes came to the gates of the fort on Christmas + morning, professing the greatest friendship, and asking permission to be + allowed to come inside and hold a peace conference. All who were in the + fort at the time were Mexicans, and as their cupidity led them to believe + that they could do some advantageous trading with the Indians, they + foolishly permitted the whole band to enter. The result was that a + wholesale massacre followed. There were seventeen persons in all quartered + there, only one of whom escaped death—the old man referred to—and + a woman and her two children, who were carried off as captives; but even + she was killed before the savages had gone a mile from the place. What + became of the children was never known; they probably met the same fate. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. UNCLE JOHN SMITH. + </h2> + <p> + Many of the men of the border were blunt in manners, rude in speech, + driven to the absolute liberty of the far West with better natures + shattered and hopes blasted, to seek in the exciting life of the plainsman + and mountaineer oblivion of some incidents of their youthful days, which + were better forgotten. Yet these aliens from society, these strangers to + the refinements of civilization, who would tear off a bloody scalp even + with grim smiles of satisfaction, were fine fellows, full of the milk of + human kindness, and would share their last slapjack with a hungry + stranger. + </p> + <p> + Uncle John Smith, as he was known to every trapper, trader, and hunter + from the Yellowstone to the Gila, was one of the most famous and eccentric + men of the early days. In 1826, as a boy, he ran away from St. Louis with + a party of Santa Fe traders, and so fascinated was he with the desultory + and exciting life, that he chose to sit cross-legged, smoking the long + Indian pipe, in the comfortable buffalo-skin teepee, rather than cross + legs on the broad table of his master, a tailor to whom he had been + apprenticed when he took French leave from St. Louis. + </p> + <p> + He spent his first winter with the Blackfeet Indians, but came very near + losing his scalp in their continual quarrels, and therefore allied himself + with the more peaceable Sioux. Once while on the trail of a horse-stealing + band of Arapahoes near the head waters of the Arkansas, the susceptible + young hunter fell in love with a very pretty Cheyenne squaw, married her, + and remained true to the object of his early affection during all his long + and eventful life, extending over a period of forty years. For many + decades he lived with his dusky wife as the Indians did, having been + adopted by the tribe. He owned a large number of horses, which constituted + the wealth of the plains Indians, upon the sale of which he depended + almost entirely for his subsistence. He became very powerful in the + Cheyenne nation; was regarded as a chief, taking an active part in the + councils, and exercising much authority. His excellent judgment as a + trader with the various bands of Indians while he was employed by the + great fur companies made his services invaluable in the strange business + complications of the remote border. Besides understanding the Cheyenne + language as well as his native tongue, he also spoke three other Indian + dialects, French, and Spanish, but with many Western expressions that + sometimes grated harshly upon the grammatical ear. + </p> + <p> + He became a sort of autocrat on the plains and in the mountains; and for + an Indian or Mexican to attempt to effect a trade without Uncle John Smith + having something to say about it, and its conditions, was hardly possible. + The New Mexicans often came in small parties to his Indian village, their + burros packed with dry pumpkin, corn, etc., to trade for buffalo-robes, + bearskins, meat, and ponies; and Smith, who knew his power, exacted + tribute, which was always paid. At one time, however, when for some reason + a party of strange Mexicans refused, Uncle John harangued the people of + the village, and called the young warriors together, who emptied every + sack of goods belonging to the cowering Mexicans on the ground, Smith + ordering the women and children to help themselves, an order which was + obeyed with alacrity. The frightened Mexicans left hurriedly for El Valle + de Taos, whence they had come, crossing themselves and uttering thanks to + Heaven for having retained their scalps. This and other similar cases so + intimidated the poor Greasers, and impressed them so deeply with a sense + of Smith's power, that, ever after, his permission to trade was craved by + a special deputation of the parties, accompanied by peace-offerings of + corn, pumpkin, and pinole. At one time, when Smith was journeying by + himself a day's ride from the Cheyenne village, he was met by a party of + forty or more corn traders, who, instead of putting such a bane to their + prospects speedily out of the way, gravely asked him if they could + proceed, and offered him every third robe they had to accompany them, + which he did. Indeed, he became so regardless of justice, in his + condescension to the natives of New Mexico, that the governor of that + province offered a reward of five hundred dollars for him alive or dead, + but fear of the Cheyennes was so prevalent that his capture was never even + attempted. + </p> + <p> + During Sheridan's memorable winter campaign against the allied tribes in + 1868-69, the old man, for he was then about sixty, was my guide and + interpreter. He shared my tent and mess, a most welcome addition to the + few who sat at my table, and beguiled many a weary hour at night, after + our tedious marches through the apparently interminable sand dunes and + barren stretches of our monotonous route, with his tales of that period, + more than half a century ago, when our mid-continent region was as little + known as the topography of the planet Mars. + </p> + <p> + At the close of December, 1868, a few weeks after the battle of the + Washita, I was camping with my command on the bank of that historic stream + in the Indian Territory, waiting with an immense wagon-train of supplies + for the arrival of General Custer's command, the famous Seventh Cavalry, + and also the Nineteenth Kansas, which were supposed to be lost, or + wandering aimlessly somewhere in the region south of us. + </p> + <p> + I had been ordered to that point by General Sheridan, with instructions to + keep fires constantly burning on three or four of the highest peaks in the + vicinity of our camp, until the lost troops should be guided to the spot + by our signals. These signals were veritable pillars of fire by night and + pillars of cloud by day; for there was an abundance of wood and hundreds + of men ready to feed the hungry flames. + </p> + <p> + It was more than two weeks before General Custer and his famished troopers + began to straggle in. During that period of anxious waiting we lived + almost exclusively on wild turkey, and longed for nature's meat—the + buffalo; but there were none of the shaggy beasts at that time in the + vicinity, so we had to content ourselves with the birds, of which we + became heartily tired. + </p> + <p> + For several days after our arrival on the creek, the men had been urging + Uncle John to tell them another story of his early adventures; but the old + trapper was in one of his silent moods—he frequently had them—and + could not be persuaded to emerge from his shell of reticence despite their + most earnest entreaties. I knew it would be of no use for me to press him. + I could, of course, order him to any duty, and he would promptly obey; but + his tongue, like the hand of Douglas, was his own. I knew, also, that when + he got ready, which would be when some incident of camp-life inspired him, + he would be as garrulous as ever. + </p> + <p> + One evening just before supper, a party of enlisted men who had been up + the creek to catch fish, but had failed to take anything owing to the + frozen condition of the stream, returned with the skeleton of a Cheyenne + Indian which they had picked up on the battle-ground of a month previously—one + of Custer's victims in his engagement with Black Kettle. This was the + incentive Uncle John required. As he gazed on the bleached bones of the + warrior, he said: "Boys, I'm going to tell you a good long story to-night. + Them Ingin's bones has put me in mind of it. After we've eat, if you + fellows wants to hear it, come down to headquarters tent, and I'll give it + to you." + </p> + <p> + Of course word was rapidly passed from one to another, as the whole camp + was eager to hear the old trapper again. In a short time, every man not on + guard or detailed to keep up the signals on the hills gathered around the + dying embers of the cook's fire in front of my tent; the enlisted men and + teamsters in groups by themselves, the officers a little closer in a + circle, in the centre of which Uncle John sat. + </p> + <p> + The night was cold, the sky covered with great fleecy patches, through + which the full moon, just fairly risen, appeared to be racing, under the + effect of that optical illusion caused by the rapidly moving clouds. The + coyotes had commenced their nocturnal concert in the timbered recesses of + the creek not far away, and on the battle-field a short distance beyond, + as they battened and fought over the dead warriors and the carcasses of + twelve hundred ponies killed in that terrible slaughter by the intrepid + Custer and his troopers. The signals on the hills leaped into the crisp + air like the tongues of dragons in the myths of the ancients; in fact, the + whole aspect of the place, as we sat around the blazing logs of our + camp-fire, was weird and uncanny. + </p> + <p> + Every one was eager for the veteran guide to begin his tale; but as I knew + he could not proceed without smoking, I passed him my pouch of Lone Jack—the + brand par excellence in the army at that time. + </p> + <p> + Uncle John loaded his corn-cob, picked up a live coal, and, pressing it + down on the tobacco with his thumb, commenced to puff vigorously. As soon + as his withered old face was half hidden in a cloud of smoke, he opened + his story in his stereotyped way. I relate it just as he told it, but + divested of much of its dialect, so difficult to write:— + </p> + <p> + "Well, boys, it's a good many years ago, in June, 1845, if I don't + disremember. I was about forty-three, and had been in the mountains and on + the plains more than nineteen seasons. You see, I went out there in 1826. + There warn't no roads, nuthin' but the Santa Fe Trail, in them days, and + Ingins and varmints. + </p> + <p> + "There was four of us. Me, Bill Comstock, Dick Curtis, and Al Thorpe. Dick + was took in by the Utes two years afterwards at the foot of the Spanish + Peaks, and Al was killed by the Apaches at Pawnee Rock, in 1847. + </p> + <p> + "We'd been trapping up on Medicine Bow for more than three years together, + and had a pile of beaver, otter, mink, and other varmint's skins cached in + the hills, which we know'd was worth a heap of money; so we concluded to + take them to the river that summer. We started from our trapping camp in + April, and 'long 'bout the middle of June reached the Arkansas, near what + is know'd as Point o' Rocks. You all know where them is on the Trail west + of Fort Dodge, and how them rocks rises up out of the prairie sudden-like. + We was a travelling 'long mighty easy, for we was all afoot, and had + hoofed it the whole distance, more than six hundred miles, driving five + good mules ahead of us. Our furs was packed on four of them, and the other + carried our blankets, extry ammunition, frying-pan, coffee-pot, and what + little grub we had, for we was obliged to depend upon buffalo, antelope, + and jack-rabbits; but, boys, I tell you there was millions of 'em in them + days. + </p> + <p> + "We had just got into camp at Point o' Rocks. It was 'bout four o'clock in + the afternoon; none of us carried watches, we always reckoned time by the + sun, and could generally guess mighty close, too. It was powerful hot, I + remember. We'd hobbled our mules close to the ledge, where the grass was + good, so they couldn't be stampeded, as we know'd we was in the Pawnee + country, and they was the most ornery Ingins on the plains. We know'd + nothing that was white ever came by that part of the Trail without having + a scrimmage with the red devils. + </p> + <p> + "Well, we hadn't more than took our dinner, when them mules give a + terrible snort, and tried to break and run, getting awful oneasy all to + once. Them critters can tell when Ingins is around. They's better than a + dozen dogs. I don't know how they can tell, but they just naturally do. + </p> + <p> + "In less than five minutes after them mules began to worry, stopped + eating, and had their ears pricked up a trying to look over the ledge + towards the river, we heard a sharp firing down on the Trail, which didn't + appear to be more than a hundred yards off. You ought to seen us grab our + rifles sudden, and run out from behind them rocks, where we was a camping, + so comfortable-like, and just going to light our pipes for a good smoke. + It didn't take us no time to get down on to the Trail, where we seen a + Mexican bull train, that we know'd must have come from Santa Fe, and which + had stopped and was trying to corral. More than sixty painted Pawnees was + a circling around the outfit, howling as only them can howl, and pouring a + shower of arrows into the oxen. Some was shaking their buffalo-robes, + trying to stampede the critters, so they could kill the men easier. + </p> + <p> + "We lit out mighty lively, soon as we seen what was going on, and reached + the head of the train just as the last wagon, that was furtherest down the + Trail, nigh a quarter of a mile off, was cut out by part of the band. Then + we seen a man, a woman, and a little boy jump out, and run to get shet of + the Ingins what had cut out the wagon from the rest of the train. One of + the red devils killed the man and scalped him, while the other pulled the + woman up in front of him, and rid off into the sand hills, and out of + sight in a minute. Then the one what had killed her husband started for + the boy, who was a running for the train as fast as his little legs could + go. But we was nigh enough then; and just as the Ingin was reaching down + from his pony for the kid, Al Thorpe—he was a powerful fine shot—draw'd + up his gun and took the red cuss off his critter without the + paint-bedaubed devil know'n' what struck him. + </p> + <p> + "The boy, seeing us, broke and run for where we was, and I reckon the rest + of the Ingins seen us then for the first time, too. We was up with the + train now, which was kind o' halfway corralled, and Dick Curtis picked up + the child—he warn't more than seven years old—and throw'd him + gently into one of the wagons, where he'd be out of the way; for we know'd + there was going to be considerable more fighting before night. We know'd, + too, we Americans would have to do the heft of it, as them Mexican + bull-whackers warn't much account, nohow, except to cavort around and + swear in Spanish, which they hadn't done nothing else since we'd come up + to the train; besides, their miserable guns warn't much better than so + many bows and arrows. + </p> + <p> + "We Americans talked together for a few moments as to what was best to be + did, while the Ingins all this time was keeping up a lively fire for them. + We made as strong a corral of the wagons as we could, driving out what + oxen the Mexicans had put in the one they had made, but you can't do much + with only nine wagons, nohow. Fortunately, while we was fixing things, the + red cusses suddenly retreated out of the range of our rifles, and we first + thought they had cleared out for good. We soon discovered, however, they + were only holding a pow-wow; for in a few minutes back they come, mounted + on their ponies, with all their fixin's and fresh war-paint on. + </p> + <p> + "Then they commenced to circle around us again, coming a little nearer—Ingin + fashion—every time they rid off and back. It wasn't long before they + got in easy range, when they slung themselves on the off-side of their + ponies and let fly their arrows and balls from under their critters' + necks. Their guns warn't much 'count, being only old English muskets what + had come from the Hudson Bay Fur Company, so they didn't do no harm that + round, except to scare the Mexicans, which commenced to cross themselves + and pray and swear. + </p> + <p> + "We four Americans warn't idle when them Ingins come a charging up; we + kept our eye skinned, and whenever we could draw a bead, one of them + tumbled off his pony, you bet! When they'd come back for their dead—we'd + already killed three of them—we had a big advantage, wasted no + shots, and dropped four of them; one apiece, and you never heard Ingins + howl so. It was getting kind o' dark by this time, and the varmints didn't + seem anxious to fight any more, but went down to the river and scooted off + into the sand hills on the other side. We waited more than half an hour + for them, but as they didn't come back, concluded we'd better light out + too. We told the Mexicans to yoke up, and as good luck would have it they + found all the cattle close by, excepting them what pulled the wagon what + the Ingins had cut out, and as it was way down the Trail, we had to + abandon it; for it was too dark to hunt it up, as we had no time to fool + away. + </p> + <p> + "We put all our outfit into the train; it wasn't loaded, but going empty + to the Missouri, to fetch back a sawmill for New Mexico. Then we made a + soft bed in the middle wagon out of blankets for the kid, and rolled out + 'bout ten o'clock, meaning to put as many miles between us and them Ingins + as the oxen could stand. We four hoofed it along for a while, then rid a + piece, catching a nap now and then as best we could, for we was monstrous + tired. By daylight we'd made fourteen miles, and was obliged to stop to + let the cattle graze. We boiled our coffee, fried some meat, and by that + time the little boy waked. He'd slept like a top all night and hadn't no + supper either; so when I went to the wagon where he was to fetch him out, + he just put them baby arms of his'n around my neck, and says, 'Where's + mamma?' + </p> + <p> + "I tell you, boys, that nigh played me out. He had no idee, 'cause he was + too young to realize what had happened; we know'd his pa was killed, but + where his ma was, God only know'd!" + </p> + <p> + Here the old man stopped short in his narrative, made two or three efforts + as if to swallow something that would not go down, while his eyes had a + far-away look. Presently he picked up a fresh coal from the fire, placed + it on his pipe, which had gone out, then puffing vigorously for a few + seconds, until his head was again enveloped in smoke, he continued:— + </p> + <p> + "After I'd washed the little fellow's face and hands, I gave him a tin cup + of coffee and some meat. You'd ought to seen him eat; he was hungrier than + a coyote. Then while the others was a watering and picketing the mules, I + sot down on the grass and took the kid into my lap to have a good look at + him; for until now none of us had had a chance. + </p> + <p> + "He was the purtiest child I'd ever seen; great black eyes, and eyelashes + that laid right on to his cheeks; his hair, too, was black, and as curly + as a young big-horn. I asked him what his name was, and he says, 'Paul.' + 'Hain't you got no other name?' says I to him again, and he answered, + 'Yes, sir,' for he was awful polite; I noticed that. 'Paul Dale,' says he + prompt-like, and them big eyes of his'n looked up into mine, as he says + 'What be yourn?' I told him he must call me 'Uncle John,' and then he says + again, as he put his arms around my neck, his little lips all a quivering, + and looking so sorrowful, 'Uncle John, where's mamma; why don't she come?' + </p> + <p> + "Boys, I don't really know what I did say. A kind o' mist came before my + eyes, and for a minute or two I didn't know nothing. I come to in a little + while, and seeing Thorpe bringing up the mules from the river, where he'd + been watering them, I says to Paul, to get his mind on to something else + besides his mother, 'Don't you want to ride one of them mules when we pull + out again?' The little fellow jumped off my lap, clapped his hands, + forgetting his trouble all at once, child-like, and replied, 'I do, Uncle + John, can I?' + </p> + <p> + "After we'd camped there 'bout three hours, the cattle full of grass and + all laying down chewing their cud, we concluded to move on and make a few + miles before it grow'd too hot, and to get further from the Ingins, which + we expected would tackle us again, as soon as they could get back from + their camp, where we felt sure they had gone for reinforcements. + </p> + <p> + "While the Mexicans was yoking up, me and Thorpe rigged an easy saddle on + one of the mules, out of blankets, for the kid to ride on, and when we was + all ready to pull out, I histed him on, and you never see a youngster so + tickled. + </p> + <p> + "We had to travel mighty slow; couldn't make more than eighteen miles a + day with oxen, and that was in two drives, one early in the morning, and + one in the evening when it was cool, a laying by and grazing when it was + hot. We Americans walked along the Trail, and mighty slow walking it was; + 'bout two and a half miles an hour. I kept close to Paul, for I began to + set a good deal of store by him; he seemed to cotton to me more than he + did to the rest, wanting to stick near me most of the time as he rid on + the mule. I wanted to find out something 'bout his folks, where they'd + come from; so that when we got to Independence, perhaps I could turn him + over to them as ought to have him; though in my own mind I was ornery + enough to wish I might never find them, and he'd be obliged to stay with + me. The boy was too young to tell what I wanted to find out; all I could + get out of him was they'd been living in Santa Fe since he was a baby, and + that his papa was a preacher. I 'spect one of them missionaries 'mong the + heathenish Greasers. He said they was going back to his grandma's in the + States, but he could not tell where. I couldn't get nothing out of them + Mexican bull-whackers neither—what they know'd wasn't half as much + as the kid—and I had to give it up. + </p> + <p> + "Well, we kept moving along without having any more trouble for a week; + them Ingins never following us as we 'lowed they would. I really enjoyed + the trip such as I never had before. Paul he was so 'fectionate and smart, + that he 'peared to fill a spot in my heart what had always been hollow + until then. When he'd got tired of riding the mule or in one of the + wagons, he'd come and walk along the Trail with me, a picking flowers, + chasing the prairie-owls and such, until his little legs 'bout played out, + when I'd hist him on his mule again. When we'd go into camp, Paul, he'd + run and pick up buffalo-chips for the fire, and wanted to help all he + could. Then when it came time to go to sleep, the boy would always get + under my blankets and cuddle up close to me. He'd be sure to say his + prayers first, though; but it seemed so strange to me who hadn't heard a + prayer for thirty years. I never tried to stop him, you may be certain of + that. He'd ask God to bless his pa and ma, and wind up with 'Bless Uncle + John too.' Then I couldn't help hugging him right up tighter; for it + carried me back to Old Missouri, to the log-cabin in the woods where I was + born, and used to say 'Now I lay me,' and 'Our Father' at my ma's knee, + when I was a kid like him. I tell you, boys, there ain't nothing that will + take the conceit out of a man here on the plains, like the company of a + kid what has been brought up right. + </p> + <p> + "I reckon we'd been travelling about ten days since we left Point o' + Rocks, and was on the other side of the Big Bend of the Arkansas, near the + mouth of the Walnut, where Fort Zarah is now. We had went into camp at + sundown, close to a big spring that's there yet. We drawed up the wagons + into a corral on the edge of the river where there wasn't no grass for + quite a long stretch; we done this to kind o' fortify ourselves, for we + expected to have trouble with the Ingins there, if anywhere, as we warn't + but seventeen miles from Pawnee Rock, the worst place on the whole Trail + for them; so we picked out that bare spot where they couldn't set fire to + the prairie. It was long after dark when we eat our supper; then we smoked + our pipes, waiting for the oxen to fill themselves, which had been driven + about a mile off where there was good grass. The Mexicans was herding + them, and when they'd eat all they could hold, and was commencing to lay + down, they was driven into the corral. Then all of us, except Comstock and + Curtis, turned in; they was to stand guard until 'bout one o'clock, when + me and Thorpe was to change places with them and stay up until morning; + for, you see, we was afraid to trust them Mexicans. + </p> + <p> + "It seemed like we hadn't been asleep more than an hour when me and Thorpe + was called to take our turn on guard. We got out of our blankets, I + putting Paul into one of the wagons, then me and Thorpe lighted our pipes + and walked around, keeping our eyes and ears open, watching the heavy + fringe of timber on the creek mighty close, I tell you. Just as daylight + was coming, we noticed that our mules, what was tied to a wagon in the + corral, was getting uneasy, a pawing and snorting, with their long ears + cocked up and looking toward the Walnut. Before I could finish saying to + Thorpe, 'Them mules smells Ingins,' half a dozen or more of the darned + cusses dashed out of the timber, yelling and shaking their robes, which, + of course, waked up the whole camp. Me and Thorpe sent a couple of shots + after them, that scattered the devils for a minute; but we hadn't hit nary + one, because it was too dark yet to draw a bead on them. We was certain + there was a good many more of them behind the first that had charged us; + so we got all the men on the side of the corral next to the Trail. The + Ingins we know'd couldn't get behind us, on account of the river, and we + was bound to make them fight where we wanted them to, if they meant to + fight at all. + </p> + <p> + "In less than a minute, quicker than I can tell you, sure enough, out they + came again, only there was 'bout eighty of them this time. They made a + dash at once, and their arrows fell like a shower of hail on the ground + and against the wagon-sheets as the cusses swept by on their ponies. There + wasn't anybody hurt, and our turn soon came. Just as they circled back, we + poured it into them, killing six and wounding two. You see them Mexican + guns had did some work that we didn't expect, and then we Americans felt + better. Well, boys, them varmints made four charges like that on to us + before we could get shet of them; but we killed as many as sixteen or + eighteen, and they got mighty sick of it and quit; they had only knocked + over one Mexican, and put an arrow into Thorpe's arm. + </p> + <p> + "I was amused at little Paul all the time the scrimmage was going on. He + stood up in the wagon where I'd put him, a looking out of the hole behind + where the sheet was drawed together, and every time an Ingin was tumbled + off his pony, he would clap his hands and yell, 'There goes another one, + Uncle John!' + </p> + <p> + "After their last charge, they rode off out of range, where they stood in + little bunches talking to each other, holding some sort of a pow-wow. It + riled us to see the darned cusses keep so far away from our rifles, + because we wanted to lay a few more of them out, but was obliged to keep + still and watch out for some new deviltry. We waited there until it was + plumb night, not daring to move out yet; but we managed to boil our coffee + and fry slap-jacks and meat. + </p> + <p> + "The oxen kept up a bellowing and pawing around the corral, for they was + desperate hungry and thirsty, hadn't had nothing since the night before; + yet we couldn't help them any, as we didn't know whether we was shet of + the Ingins or not. We staid, patient-like, for two or three hours more + after dark to see what the Ingins was going to do, as while we sot round + our little fire of buffalo-chips, smoking our pipes, we could still hear + the red devils a howling and chanting, while they picked up their dead + laying along the river-bottom. + </p> + <p> + "As soon as morning broke—we'd ketched a nap now and then during the + night—we got ready for another charge of the Ingins, their favourite + time being just 'bout daylight; but there warn't hide or hair of an Ingin + in sight. They'd sneaked off in the darkness long before the first streak + of dawn; had enough of fighting, I expect. As soon as we discovered they'd + all cleared out, we told the drivers to hitch up, and while they was + yoking and watering, me 'n' Curtis and Comstock buried the dead Mexican on + the bank of the river, as we didn't want to leave his bones to be picked + by the coyotes, which was already setting on the sand hills watching and + waiting for us to break camp. By the time we'd finished our job, and piled + some rocks on his grave, so as the varmints couldn't dig him up, the train + was strung out on the Trail, and then we rolled out mighty lively for + oxen; for the critters was hungry, and we had to travel three or four + miles the other side of the Walnut, where the grass was green, before they + could feed. The oxen seen it on the hills and they lit out almost at a + trot. It was 'bout sun-up when we got there, when we turned the animals + loose, corralled, and had breakfast. + </p> + <p> + "After we'd had our smoke, all we had to do was to put in the time until + five o'clock; for we couldn't move before then, as it would be too hot by + the time the oxen got filled. Paul and me went down to the creek fishing; + there was tremendous cat in the Walnut them days, and by noon we'd ketched + five big beauties, which we took to camp and cooked for dinner. After I'd + had my smoke, Paul and me went back to the creek, where we stretched + ourselves under a good-sized box-elder tree—there wasn't no shade + nowhere else—and took a sleep, while Comstock and Curtis went + jack-rabbit hunting across the river, as we was getting scarce of meat. + </p> + <p> + "Thorpe, who was hit in the arm with an arrow, couldn't do much but nuss + his wound; so him and the Mexicans stood guard, a looking out for Ingins, + as we didn't know but what the cusses might come back and make another + raid on us, though we really didn't expect they would have the gall to + bother us any more—least not the same outfit what had fought us the + day before. That evening, 'bout six o'clock, we rolled out again and went + into camp late, having made twelve miles, and didn't see a sign of Ingins. + </p> + <p> + "In ten days more we got to Independence without having no more trouble of + no kind, and was surprised at our luck. At Independence we Americans left + the train, sold our furs, got a big price, too—each of us had a + shot-bag full of gold and silver, more money than we know'd what to do + with. Me, Curtis, and Thorpe concluded we'd buy a new outfit, consisting + of another six-mule wagon, and harness, so we'd have a full team, meaning + to go back to the mountains with the first big caravan what left. + </p> + <p> + "All the folks in the settlement what seen Paul took a great fancy to him. + Some wanted to adopt him, and some said I'd ought to take him to St. Louis + and place him in an orphan asylum; but I 'lowed if there was going to be + any adopting done, I'd do it myself, 'cause the kid seemed now just as if + he was my own; besides the little fellow I know'd loved me and didn't want + me to leave him. I had kin-folks in Independence, an old aunt, and me and + Paul staid there. She had a young gal with her, and she learned Paul out + of books; so he picked up considerable, as we had to wait more than two + months before Colonel St. Vrain's caravan was ready to start for New + Mexico. + </p> + <p> + "I bought Paul a coal-black pony, and had a suit of fine buckskin made for + him out of the pelt of a black-tail deer I'd shot the winter before on + Powder River. The seams of his trousers was heavily fringed, and with his + white sombrero, a riding around town on his pony, he looked like one of + them Spanish Dons what the papers nowadays has pictures of; only he was + smarter-looking than any Don I ever see in my life. + </p> + <p> + "It was 'bout the last of August when we pulled out from Independence. + Comstock staid with us until we got ready to go, and then lit out for St. + Louis, and I hain't never seen him since. The caravan had seventy-five + six-mule teams in it, without counting ours, loaded with dry-goods and + groceries for Mora, New Mexico, where Colonel St. Vrain, the owner, lived + and had a big store. We had no trouble with the Ingins going back across + the plains; we seen lots, to be sure, hanging on our trail, but they never + attacked us; we was too strong for them. + </p> + <p> + "'Bout the last of September we reached Bent's Old Fort, on the Arkansas, + where the Santa Fe Trail crosses the river into New Mexico, and we camped + there the night we got to it. + </p> + <p> + "I know'd they had cows up to the fort; so just before we was ready for + supper, I took Paul and started to see if we couldn't get some milk for + our coffee. It wasn't far, and we was camped a few hundred yards from the + gate, just outside the wall. Well, we went into the kitchen, Paul right + alongside of me, and there I seen a white woman leaning over the adobe + hearth a cooking—they had always only been squaws before. She + naturally looked up to find out who was coming in, and when she seen the + kid, all at once she give a scream, dropped the dish-cloth she had in her + hand, made a break for Paul, throw'd her arms around him, nigh upsetting + me, and says, while she was a sobbing and taking on dreadful,— + </p> + <p> + "'My boy! My boy! Then I hain't prayed and begged the good Lord all these + days and nights for nothing!' Then she kind o' choked again, while Paul, + he says, as he hung on to her,— + </p> + <p> + "'O mamma! O mamma! I know'd you'd come back! I know'd you'd come back!' + </p> + <p> + "Well, there, boys, I just walked out of that kitchen a heap faster than + I'd come into it, and shut the door. When I got outside, for a few minutes + I couldn't see nothing, I was worked up so. As soon as I come to, I went + through the gate down to camp as quick as my legs would carry me, to tell + Thorpe and Curtis that Paul had found his ma. They wanted to know all + about it, but I couldn't tell them nothing, I was so dumfounded at the way + things had turned out. We talked among ourselves a moment, then reckoned + it was the best to go up to the fort together, and ask the woman how on + earth she'd got shet of the Ingins what had took her off, and how it come + she was cooking there. We started out and when we got into the kitchen, + there was Paul and Mrs. Dale, and you never see no people so happy. They + was just as wild as a stampeded steer; she seemed to have growed ten years + younger than when I first went up there, and as for Paul, he was in heaven + for certain. + </p> + <p> + "First we had to tell her how we'd got the kid, and how we'd learned to + love him. All the time we was telling of it, and our scrimmages with the + Ingins, she was a crying and hugging Paul as if her heart was broke. After + we'd told all we know'd, we asked her to tell us her story, which she did, + and it showed she was a woman of grit and education. + </p> + <p> + "She said the Ingins what had captured her took her up to their camp on + the Saw Log, a little creek north of Fort Dodge—you all know where + it is—and there she staid that night. Early in the morning they all + started for the north. She watched their ponies mighty close as they rid + along that day, so as to find out which was the fastest; for she had made + up her mind to make her escape the first chance she got. She looked at the + sun once in a while, to learn what course they was taking; so that she + could go back when she got ready, strike the Sante Fe Trail, and get to + some ranch, as she had seen several while passing through the foot-hills + of the Raton Range when she was with the Mexican train. + </p> + <p> + "It was on the night of the fourth day after they had left Saw Log, and + had rid a long distance—was more than a hundred miles on their + journey—when she determined to try and light out. The whole camp was + fast asleep, for the Ingins was monstrous tired. She crawled out of the + lodge where she'd been put with some old squaws, and going to where the + ponies had been picketed, she took a little iron-gray she'd had her eye + on, jumped on his back, with only the lariat for a bridle and without any + saddle, not even a blanket, took her bearings from the north star, and + cautiously moved out. She started on a walk, until she'd got 'bout four + miles from camp, and then struck a lope, keeping it up all night. By next + morning she'd made some forty miles, and then for the first time since + she'd left her lodge, pulled up and looked back, to see if any of the + Ingins was following her. When she seen there wasn't a living thing in + sight, she got off her pony, watered him out of a small branch, took a + drink herself, but not daring to rest yet, mounted her animal again and + rid on as fast as she could without wearing him out too quickly. + </p> + <p> + "Hour after hour she rid on, the pony appearing to have miraculous + endurance, until sundown. By that time she'd crossed the Saline, the Smoky + Hill, and got to the top of the divide between that river and the + Arkansas, or not more than forty miles from the Santa Fe Trail. Then her + wonderful animal seemed to weaken; she couldn't even make him trot, and + she was so nearly played out herself, she could hardly set steady. What to + do, she didn't know. The pony was barely able to move at a slow walk. She + was afraid he would drop dead under her, and she was compelled to + dismount, and in almost a minute, as soon as she laid down on the prairie, + was fast asleep. + </p> + <p> + "She had no idee how long she had slept when she woke up. The sun was only + 'bout two hours high. Then she know'd she had been unconscious since + sundown of the day before, or nigh twenty-four hours. Rubbing her eyes, + for she was kind o' bewildered, and looking around, there she saw her pony + as fresh, seemingly, as when she'd started. He'd had plenty to eat, for + the grass was good, but she'd had nothing. She pulled a little piece of + dried buffalo-meat out of her bosom, which she'd brought along, all she + could find at the lodge, and now nibbled at that, for she was mighty + hungry. She was terribly sore and stiff too, but she mounted at once and + pushed on, loping and walking him by spells. Just at daylight she could + make out the Arkansas right in front of her in the dim gray of the early + morning, not very far off. On the west, the Raton Mountains loomed up like + a great pile of blue clouds, the sight of which cheered her; for she + know'd she would soon reach the Trail. + </p> + <p> + "It wasn't quite noon when she struck the Santa Fe Trail. When she got + there, looking to the east, she saw in the distance, not more than three + miles away, a large caravan coming, and then, almost wild with delight, + she dismounted, sot down on the grass, and waited for it to arrive. In + less than an hour, the train come up to where she was, and as good luck + would have it, it happened to be an American outfit, going to Taos with + merchandise. As soon as the master of the caravan seen her setting on the + prairie, he rid up ahead of the wagons, and she told him her story. He was + a kind-hearted man; had the train stop right there on the bank of the + river, though he wasn't half through his day's drive, so as to make her + comfortable as possible, and give her something to eat; for she was 'bout + played out. He bought the Ingin pony, giving her thirty dollars for it, + and after she had rested for some time, the caravan moved out. She rid in + one of the wagons, on a bed of blankets, and the next evening arrived at + Bent's Old Fort. There she found women-folks, who cared for her and nussed + her; for she was dreadfully sore and tired after her long ride. Then she + was hired to cook, meaning to work until she'd earned enough to take her + back to Pennsylvany, to her mother's, where she had started for when the + Ingins attackted the train. + </p> + <p> + "That night, after listening to her mirac'lous escape, we made up a 'pot' + for her, collecting 'bout eight hundred dollars. The master of Colonel St. + Vrain's caravan, what had come out with us, told her he was going back + again to the river in a couple of weeks, and he'd take her and Paul in + without costing her a cent; besides, she'd be safer than with any other + outfit, as his train was a big one, and he had all American teamsters. + </p> + <p> + "Next morning the caravan went on to Mora, and after we'd bid good-by to + Mrs. Dale and Paul, before which I give the boy two hundred dollars for + himself, me, Thorpe, and Curtis pulled out with our team north for + Frenchman's Creek, and I never felt so miserable before nor since as I did + parting with the kid that morning. I hain't never seen him since; but he + must be nigh forty now. Mebby he went into the war and was killed; mebby + he got to be a general, but I hain't forgot him." + </p> + <p> + Uncle John knocked the ashes out of his pipe, and without saying another + word went into the tent. In a few moments the camp was as quiet as a + country village on Sunday, excepting the occasional howling of a hungry + wolf down in the timbered recesses of the Washita, or the crackling and + sputtering of the signal fires on the hilltops. + </p> + <p> + In a few days afterward, we were camping on Hackberry Creek, in the Indian + Territory. We had been living on wild turkey, as before for some time, and + still longed for a change. At last one of my hunters succeeded in bagging + a dozen or more quails. Late that evening, when my cook brought the + delicious little birds, beautifully spitted and broiled on peeled willow + twigs, into my tent, I passed one to Uncle John. Much to the surprise of + every one, he refused. He said, "Boys, I don't eat no quail!" + </p> + <p> + We looked at him in astonishment; for he was somewhat of a gourmand, and + prided himself upon the "faculty," as he termed it, of being able to eat + anything, from a piece of jerked buffalo-hide to the juiciest young + antelope steak. + </p> + <p> + I remonstrated with the venerable guide; said to him, "You are making a + terrible mistake, Uncle John. Tomorrow I expect to leave here, and as we + are going directly away from the buffalo country, we don't know when we + shall strike fresh meat again. You'd better try one," and I again + proffered one of the birds. + </p> + <p> + "Boys," said he again, "I don't tech quail; I hain't eat one for more than + twenty years. One of the little cusses saved my life once, and I swore + right thar and then that I would starve first; and I have kept my oath, + though I've seen the time mighty often sence I could a killed 'em with my + quirt, when all I had to chaw on for four days was the soles of a greasy + pair of old moccasins. + </p> + <p> + "Well, boys, it's a good many years ago—in June, if I don't + disremember, 1847. We was a coming in from way up in Cache le Poudre and + from Yellowstone Lake, whar we'd been a trapping for two seasons. We was a + working our way slowly back to Independence, Missouri, where we was a + going to get a new outfit. Let's see, there was me, and a man by the name + of Boyd, and Lew Thorp—Lew was a working for Colonel Boone at the + time—and two more men, whose names I disremember now, and a nigger + wench we had for a cook. We had mighty good luck, and had a big pile of + skins; and the Indians never troubled us till we got down on Pawnee + Bottom, this side of Pawnee Rock. We all of us had mighty good ponies, but + Thorp had a team and wagon, which he was driving for Colonel Boone. + </p> + <p> + "We had went into camp on Pawnee Bottom airly in the afternoon, and I told + the boys to look out for Ingins—for I knowed ef we was to have any + trouble with them it would be somewhere in that vicinity. But we didn't + see a darned redskin that night, nor the sign of one. + </p> + <p> + "The wolves howled considerable, and come pretty close to the fire for the + bacon rinds we'd throwed away after supper. + </p> + <p> + "You see the buffalo was scurse right thar then—it was the wrong + time o' year. They generally don't get down on to the Arkansas till about + September, and when they're scurse the wolves and coyotes are mighty + sassy, and will steal a piece of bacon rind right out of the pan, if you + don't watch 'em. So we picketed our ponies a little closer before we + turned in, and we all went to sleep except one, who sort o' kept watch on + the stock. + </p> + <p> + "I was out o' my blankets mighty airly next morning, for I was kind o' + suspicious. I could always tell when Ingins was prowling around, and I had + a sort of present'ment something was going to happen—I didn't like + the way the coyotes kept yelling—so I rested kind o' oneasy like, + and was out among the ponies by the first streak o' daylight. + </p> + <p> + "About the time I could see things, I discovered three or four buffalo + grazing off on the creek bottom, about a half-mile away, and I started for + my rifle, thinking I would examine her. + </p> + <p> + "Pretty soon I seed Thorp and Boyd crawl out o' their blankets, too, and I + called their attention to the buffalo, which was still feeding + undisturbed. + </p> + <p> + "We'd been kind o' scurse of fresh meat for a couple of weeks—ever + since we left the Platte—except a jack-rabbit or cottontail, and I + knowed the boys would be wanting to get a quarter or two of a good fat + cow, if we could find one in the herd, so that was the reason I pointed + 'em out to 'em. + </p> + <p> + "The dew, you see, was mighty heavy, and the grass in the bottom was as + wet as if it had been raining for a month, and I didn't care to go down + whar the buffalo was just then—I knowed we had plenty of time, and + as soon as the sun was up it would dry right off. So I got on to one of + the ponies and led the others down to the spring near camp to water them + while the wench was a getting breakfast, and some o' the rest o' the + outfit was a fixing the saddles and greasing the wagon. + </p> + <p> + "Just as I was coming back—it had growed quite light then—I + seed Boyd and Thorp start out from camp with their rifles and make for the + buffalo; so I picketed the ponies, gets my rifle, and starts off too. + </p> + <p> + "By the time I'd reached the edge of the bottom, Thorp and Boyd was a + crawling up on to a young bull way off to the right, and I lit out for a + fat cow I seen bunched up with the rest of the herd on the left. + </p> + <p> + "The grass was mighty tall on some parts of the Arkansas bottom in them + days, and I got within easy shooting range without the herd seeing me. + </p> + <p> + "The buffalo was now between me and Thorp and Boyd, and they was + furtherest from camp. I could see them over the top of the grass kind o' + edging up to the bull, and I kept a crawling on my hands and knees toward + the cow, and when I got about a hundred and fifty yards of her, I pulled + up my rifle and drawed a bead. + </p> + <p> + "Just as I was running my eyes along the bar'l, a darned little quail flew + right out from under my feet and lit exactly on my front sight and of + course cut off my aim—we didn't shoot reckless in those days; every + shot had to tell, or a man was the laughing-stock for a month if he missed + his game. + </p> + <p> + "I shook the little critter off and brought up my rifle again when, durn + my skin, if the bird didn't light right on to the same place; at the same + time my eyes grow'd kind o' hazy-like and in a minute I didn't know + nothing. + </p> + <p> + "When I come to, the quail was gone, I heerd a couple of rifle shots, and + right in front of where the bull had stood and close to Thorp and Boyd, + half a dozen Ingins jumped up out o' the tall grass and, firing into the + two men, killed Thorp instantly and wounded Boyd. + </p> + <p> + "He and me got to camp—keeping off the Ingins, who knowed I was + loaded—when we, with the rest of the outfit, drove the red devils + away. + </p> + <p> + "They was Apaches, and the fellow that shot Thorp was a half-breed nigger + and Apache. He scalped Thorp and carred off the whole upper part of his + skull with it. He got Thorp's rifle and bullet-pouch too, and his knife. + </p> + <p> + "We buried Thorp in the bottom there, and some of the party cut their + names on the stones that they covered his body up with, to keep the + coyotes from eating up his bones. + </p> + <p> + "Boyd got on to the river with us all right, and I never heerd of him + after we separated at Booneville. We pulled out soon after the Indians + left, but we didn't get no buffalo-meat. + </p> + <p> + "You see, boys, if I'd a fired into that cow, the devils would a had me + before I could a got a patch on my ball—didn't have no + breech-loaders in them days, and it took as much judgment to know how to + load a rifle properly as it did to shoot it. + </p> + <p> + "Them Ingins knowed all that—they knowed I hadn't fired, so they + kept a respectable distance. I would a fired, but the quail saved my life + by interfering with my sight—and that's the reason I don't eat no + quail. I hain't superstitious, but I don't believe they was meant to be + eat." + </p> + <p> + Uncle John stuck to his text, I believe, until he died, and you could + never disabuse his mind of the idea that the quail lighting on his rifle + was not a special interposition of Providence. + </p> + <p> + Only four years after he told his story, in 1872, one of the newly + established settlers, living a few miles west of Larned on Pawnee Bottom, + having observed in one of his fields a singular depression, resembling an + old grave, determined to dig down and see if there was any special cause + for the strange indentation on his land. + </p> + <p> + A couple of feet below the surface he discovered several flat pieces of + stone, on one of which the words "Washington" and "J. Hildreth" were + rudely cut, also a line separating them, and underneath: "December tenth" + and "J. M., 1850." On another was carved the name "J. H. Shell," with + other characters that could not be deciphered. On a third stone were the + initials "H. R., 1847"; underneath which was plainly cut "J. R. Boyd," and + still beneath "J. R. Pring." At the very bottom of the excavation were + found the lower portion of the skull, one or two ribs, and one of the + bones of the leg of a human being. The piece of skull was found near the + centre of the grave, for such it certainly was. + </p> + <p> + At the time of the discovery I was in Larned, and I immediately consulted + my book of notes and memoranda taken hurriedly at intervals on the plains + and in the mountains, during more than half my lifetime, to see if I could + find anything that would solve the mystery attached to the quiet + prairie-grave and its contents, and I then recalled Uncle John Smith's + story of the quail as related to me at my camp. I also met Colonel A. G. + Boone that winter in Washington; he remembered the circumstances well. + Thorp was working for him, as Smith had said, and was killed by an Apache, + who, in scalping him, tore the half of his head away, and it was thus + found mutilated, so many years afterward. + </p> + <p> + Uncle John was in one of his garrulous moods that night, and as we were + not by any means tired of hearing the veteran trapper talk, without much + urging he told us the following tale:— + </p> + <p> + "Well, boys, thirty years ago, beaver, mink, and otter was found in + abundacious quantities on all the streams in the Rocky Mountains. The + trade in them furs was a paying business, for the little army of us + fellows called trappers. They ain't any of 'em left now, no mor'n the + animals we used to hunt. We had to move about from place to place, just as + if we was so many Ingins. Sometimes we'd construct little cabins in the + timber, or a dugout where the game was plenty, where we'd stay maybe for a + month or two, and once in a while—though not often—a whole + year. + </p> + <p> + "The Ingins was our mortal enemies; they'd get a scalp from our fellows + occasionally, but for every one they had of ours we had a dozen of theirs. + </p> + <p> + "In the summer of 1846, there was a little half dugout, half cabin, + opposite the mouth of Frenchman's Creek, put up by Bill Thorpe, Al Boyd, + and Rube Stevens. Bill and Al was men grown, and know'd more 'bout the + prairies and timber than the Ingins themselves. They'd hired out to the + Northwest Fur Company when they was mere kids, and kept on trapping ever + since. Rube—'Little Rube' as all the old men called him—was + 'bout nineteen, and plumb dumb; he could hear well enough though, for he + wasn't born that way. When he was seventeen his father moved from his farm + in Pennsylvany, to take up a claim in Oregon, and the whole family was + compelled to cross the plains to get there; for there wasn't no other way. + While they was camped in the Bitter-Root valley one evening, just 'bout + sundown, a party of Blackfeet surprised the outfit, and massacred all of + them but Rube. They carried him off, kept him as a slave, and, to make + sure of him, cut out his tongue at the roots. But some of the women who + wasn't quite so devilish as their husbands, and who took pity on him, went + to work and cured him of his awful wound. He was used mighty mean by the + bucks of the tribe, and made up his mind to get away from them or kill + himself; for he could not live under their harsh treatment. After he'd + been with them for mor'n a year, the tribe had a terrible battle with the + Sioux, and in the scrimmage Rube stole a pony and lit out. He rode on + night and day until he came across the cabin of the two trappers I have + told you 'bout, and they, of course, took the poor boy in and cared for + him. + </p> + <p> + "Rube was a splendid shot with the rifle, and he swore to himself that he + would never leave the prairies and do nothing for the rest of his life but + kill Ingins, who had made him a homeless orphan, and so mutilated him. + </p> + <p> + "After Rube had been with Boyd and Thorpe a year, they was all one day in + the winter examining their traps which was scattered 'long the stream for + miles. After re-baiting them, they concluded to hunt for meat, which was + getting scarce at the cabin; they let Rube go down to the creek where it + widened out lake-like, to fish through a hole in the ice, and Al and Bill + took their rifles and hunted in the timber for deer. They all got + separated of course, Rube being furtherest away, while Al and Bill did not + wander so far from each other that they could not be heard if one wanted + his companion. + </p> + <p> + "Al shot a fat black-tail deer, and just as he was going to stoop down to + cut its throat, Bill yelled out to him:— + </p> + <p> + "'Drop everything Al, for God's sake, and let's make for the dugout; + they're coming, a whole band of Sioux!' + </p> + <p> + "'If we can get to the cabin,' replied Al, 'we can keep off the whole + nation. I wonder where Rube is? I hope he'll get here and save his scalp.' + </p> + <p> + "At this instant, poor Rube dashed up to them, an Ingin close upon his + tracks; he had unfortunately forgotten to take his rifle with him when he + went to the creek, and now he was at the mercy of the savage; at least + both he and his pursuer so thought. But before the Ingin had fairly + uttered his yell of exultation, Al who with Bill had held his rifle in + readiness for an emergency, lifted the red devil off his feet, and he fell + dead without ever knowing what had struck him. + </p> + <p> + "Rube, thus delivered from a sudden death, ran at the top of his speed + with his two friends for the cabin, for, if they could reach it, they did + not fear a hundred paint-bedaubed savages. + </p> + <p> + "Luckily they arrived in time. Where they lived was part dugout and part + cabin. It was about ten feet high, and right back of it was a big ledge of + rock, which made it impossible for any one to get into it from that side. + The place had no door; they did not dare to put one there when it was + built, for they were likely to be surprised at any moment by a prowling + band, so the only entrance was a square hole in the roof, through which + one at a time had to crawl to enter. + </p> + <p> + "The boys got inside all right just as the Ingins came a yelling up. Bill + looked out of a hole in the wall and counted thirty of the devils, and + said at once: 'Off with your coats; don't let them have anything to catch + hold of but our naked bodies if they get in, and we can handle ourselves + better.' + </p> + <p> + "'Thirty to three,' said Al. 'Whew! this ain't going to be any boy's play; + we've got to fight for all there is in it, and the chances are mightily + agin us.' + </p> + <p> + "Rube he took an axe, and stood right under the hole in the roof, so that + if any of the devils got in he could brain them. In a minute five rifles + cracked; for the Ingins was pretty well armed for them times, and their + bullets rattled agin the logs like hail agin a tent. Some of 'em was on + top the roof by this time, and soon the leader of the party, a big painted + devil, thrust his ugly face into the hole; but he had hardly got a good + look before Bill dropped him by a well-directed shot and he tumbled in on + the floor. + </p> + <p> + "'You darned fool,' said Bill, as he saw the effect of his shot; 'did you + think we was asleep?' + </p> + <p> + "There was one opening that served for air, and a savage, seeing the boys + had forgotten to barricade it, tried to push himself through, an' not + succeeding, tried to back out, but at that instant Bill caught him by the + wrist—Bill was a powerful man—and picking up a beaver-trap + that laid on the floor, actually beat his brains out with it. + </p> + <p> + "While this circus was going on inside, three more of the Ingins got on + the roof and wrenched off a couple of the logs that covered it; but in a + minute they came tumbling down and lay dead on the floor. + </p> + <p> + "'That leaves only twenty-five, don't it?' inquired Al, as he mopped his + face with his shirt-sleeve. + </p> + <p> + "'Howl, you red devils,' said Bill, as the Ingins commenced their awful + yelling when they saw their comrades fall into the room. 'Don't you know, + you blame fools, you've fell in with experienced hands at the shooting + business?' + </p> + <p> + "Spat! Something hit Al, and he was the first wounded, but it was only a + scratch, and he kept right on attending to business. + </p> + <p> + "'By gosh! look at Rube, will you?' said Al. The dumb boy had in his grasp + the very chief of the band, who had just then discovered the hole in the + roof made by the three Ingins who had passed in their checks for their + impudence, and was trying his best to push himself down. Rube had made a + strike at him with an axe, but the edge was turned aside, and the savage + was getting the better of the boy; he had grappled Rube by the hair and + one arm, and they was flying 'round like a wild cat and a hound. Bill + tried three times to sink his knife into the old chief, but there was such + a cavortin' in the wrastle between him and the boy, he was afraid to try + any more, for fear it might hit Rube instead. Suddenly the Ingin fell to + the floor as dead as a trapped beaver what's been drowned; Rube had struck + his buckhorn-handled hunting-knife right into the heart of the brute. + </p> + <p> + "'Set him agin the hole in the side of the building,' said Bill; 'he ain't + fit for nothing else than to stop a gap'; so Rube set him agin the hole, + and pinned him there with half a dozen knives what was lying round loose. + </p> + <p> + "Just as they had fastened the dead body of the old chief to the side of + the cabin, a perfect shower of bullets came rattling round like a + hailstorm. 'All right, let's have your waste lead,' said Bill. + </p> + <p> + "'A few more of these dead Ingins and we can make a regular fort of this + old cabin; we want two for that chunk,' said Al, as he pointed with his + rifle to a large gap on the west side of the wall; but before he had + fairly got the words out of his mouth, two of the attacking party jumped + down into the room. Al, being a regular giant, as soon as they landed, + surprised them by seizing one with each hand by the throat, and he + actually held them at arm's-length till he had squeezed the very life out + of them, and they both fell corpses. + </p> + <p> + "While Al was performing his two-Ingin act, a great light burst into the + cabin, and by the time he had choked his enemies to death, he saw, while + the Ingins outside gave a terrible yell of exultation, that they had fired + the place. + </p> + <p> + "'Damn 'em,' shouted Bill, as he pitched the corpse of the chief from the + gap where Rube had set him. 'Fellows, we've got to get out of here right + quick; follow me, boys!' + </p> + <p> + "Holding their rifles in hand, and clutching a hunting-knife also, they + stepped out into the brush surrounding the place, and started on a run for + the heavy timber on the bank of the creek. + </p> + <p> + "They had reckoned onluckily; a wild war-whoop greeted the flying men as + they reached the edge of the forest, and without being able to use their + arms, they were taken prisoners. Bill and Al, fastened with their backs + against each other, and Little Rube by himself, were bound to separate + trees, but not so far apart that they could not speak to each other, and + some of the Ingins began to gather sticks and pile them around the trees. + </p> + <p> + "'What are they going to do with us?' anxiously inquired Bill of Al. + </p> + <p> + "'Roast us, you bet,' replied the other. 'They'll find me tough enough, + anyhow.' + </p> + <p> + "'It must be a painful death,' soliloquized Bill. + </p> + <p> + "'Well, it isn't the most pleasant one, you can gamble on that,' said Al, + turning his looks toward Bill; 'but see what the devils are doing to poor + Rube.' + </p> + <p> + "Bill cast his eyes in the direction of the dumb boy, who was fastened to + a small pine, about a hundred feet distant. Standing directly in front of + it was a gigantic Ingin, flourishing his scalping-knife within an inch of + Rube's head, trying to make the boy flinch. But the young fellow merely + scowled at him in a rage, his muscles never quivering for an instant. + </p> + <p> + "While the men were trying to console each other, two of the savages, who + had gone away for a short time, returned, bearing the carcass of the deer + that Al had killed in the morning, and commenced to cut it up. They had + made several small fires, and roasting the meat before them, began to + gorge themselves, Indian fashion, with the savoury morsels. The men were + awfully hungry, too, but not a mouthful did they get of their own game. + </p> + <p> + "The Ingins were more'n an hour feasting, while their prisoners kept a + looking for some help to get 'em out of the scrape they was in. + </p> + <p> + "'Bout a mile down the creek, me and six other trappers had a camp, and + that morning, being scarce of meat, we all went a hunting. We had killed + two or three elk and was 'bout going back to camp with our game, when we + heard firing, and supposed it was a party of hunters, like ourselves, so + we did not pay any attention to it at first; but when it kept up so long, + and there was such a constant volley, I told our boys it might be a + scrimmage with a party of red devils, and we concluded to go and see. + </p> + <p> + "We left our elk where they were, and started in the direction of the + shooting, taking mighty good care not to be surprised ourselves. We crept + carefully on, and a little before sundown seen a camp-fire burning in the + timber quite a smart piece ahead of us. We stopped then, and Ike Pettet + and myself crept on cautiously on our hands and knees through the brush to + learn what the fire meant. In a little while we seen it was an Ingin camp, + and we counted twenty-two warriors seated 'round their fires a eating as + unconcernedly as if we warn't nowhere near 'em. We didn't feel like + tackling so many, so just as we was 'bout to crawl away and leave 'em in + ondisturbed possession of their camp, we heard some parties talking in + English. Then we pricked up our ears and listened mighty interested I tell + you. Looking 'round, we seen the men tied to the trees and the wood piled + against 'em, and then we knowed what was up. We had to be mighty wary, for + if we snapped a twig even, it was all day with us and the prisoners too; + so we dragged ourselves back, and after getting out of sound of the + Ingins, we just got up and lit out mighty lively for the place we'd left + our companions. We met them coming slowly on 'bout two miles from the + Ingin camp, and telling 'em what was up we started to help the trappers + what the devils was agoing to burn. We wasn't half so long in getting at + the camp as Ike and me was in going, and we soon come within good range + for our rifles. + </p> + <p> + "The Ingins was still unsuspicious, and we spread ourselves in a sort of + half circle so as to kind o' surround them, and at a signal I give, seven + rifles cracked at once, and as many of the Injins was dropped right in + their tracks; a second volley, for the red devils had not got their senses + yet, tumbled seven more corpses upon the pile, and then we white men + jumped in with our knives and clubbed rifles, and there was a lively + scrimmage for a few minutes. The few Ingins what wasn't killed fought like + devils, but as we was getting the best of 'em every second they turned + tail and ran. + </p> + <p> + "We'd heard the firing of the fight at the cabin just in time; and as we + cut the rawhide strings that bound the fellows to the trees, Ike, who was + a right fine shot and had killed three at one time, said: 'I always like + to get two or three of the red devils in a line before I pull the trigger; + it saves lead.' + </p> + <p> + "Then we all went back to our camp and made a night of it, feasting on the + elk we had killed, and talking over the wonderful escape of the boys and + Little Rube." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. KIT CARSON. + </h2> + <p> + Of the famous men whose lives are so interwoven with the history of the + Old Santa Fe Trail that the story of the great highway is largely made up + of their individual exploits and acts of bravery, it has been my fortune + to have known nearly all intimately, during more than a third of a century + passed on the great plains and in the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + First of all, Christopher, or Kit, Carson, as he is familiarly known to + the world, stands at the head and front of celebrated frontiersmen, + trappers, scouts, guides, and Indian fighters. + </p> + <p> + I knew him well through a series of years, to the date of his death in + 1868, but I shall confine myself to the events of his remarkable career + along the line of the Trail and its immediate environs. In 1826 a party of + Santa Fe traders passing near his father's home in Howard County, + Missouri, young Kit, who was then but seventeen years old, joined the + caravan as hunter. He was already an expert with the rifle, and thus + commenced his life of adventure on the great plains and in the Rocky + Mountains. + </p> + <p> + His first exhibition of that nerve and coolness in the presence of danger + which marked his whole life was in this initial trip across the plains. + When the caravan had arrived at the Arkansas River, somewhere in the + vicinity of the great bend of that stream, one of the teamsters, while + carelessly pulling his rifle toward him by the barrel, discharged the + weapon and received the ball in his arm, completely crushing the bones. + The blood from the wound flowed so copiously that he nearly lost his life + before it could be arrested. He was fixed up, however, and the caravan + proceeded on its journey, the man thinking no more seriously of his + injured arm. In a few days, however, the wound began to indicate that + gangrene had set in, and it was determined that only by an amputation was + it possible for him to live beyond a few days. Every one of the older men + of the caravan positively declined to attempt the operation, as there were + no instruments of any kind. At this juncture Kit, realizing the extreme + necessity of prompt action, stepped forward and offered to do the job. He + told the unfortunate sufferer that he had had no experience in such + matters, but that as no one else would do it, he would take the chances. + All the tools that Kit could find were a razor, a saw, and the king-bolt + of a wagon. He cut the flesh with the razor, sawed through the bone as if + it had been a piece of joist, and seared the horrible wound with the + king-bolt, which he had heated to a white glow, for the purpose of + stopping the flow of blood that naturally followed such rude surgery. The + operation was a complete success; the man lived many years afterward, and + was with his surgeon in many an expedition. + </p> + <p> + In the early days of the commerce of the prairies, Carson was the hunter + at Bent's Fort for a period of eight years. There were about forty men + employed at the place; and when the game was found in abundance in the + mountains, it was a relatively easy task and just suited to his love of + sport, but when it grew scarce, as it often did, his prowess was tasked to + its utmost to keep the forty mouths from crying for food. He became such + an unerring shot with the rifle during that time that he was called the + "Nestor of the Rocky Mountains." His favourite game was the buffalo, + although he killed countless numbers of other animals. + </p> + <p> + All of the plains tribes of Indians, as did the powerful Utes of the + mountains, knew him well; for he had often visited in their camps, sat in + their lodges, smoked the pipe, and played with their little boys. The + latter fact may not appear of much consequence, but there are no people on + earth who have a greater love for their boy children than the savages of + America. The Indians all feared him, too, at the same time that they + respected his excellent judgment, and frequently were governed by his wise + counsel. The following story will show his power in this direction. The + Sioux, one of the most numerous and warlike tribes at that time, had + encroached upon the hunting-grounds of the southern Indians, and the + latter had many a skirmish with them on the banks of the Arkansas along + the line of the Trail. Carson, who was in the upper valley of the river, + was sent for to come down and help them drive the obnoxious Sioux back to + their own stamping-ground. He left Fort Bent, and went with the party of + Comanche messengers to the main camp of that tribe and the Arapahoes, with + whom they had united. Upon his arrival, he was told that the Sioux had a + thousand warriors and many rifles, and the Comanches and Arapahoes were + afraid of them on account of the great disparity of numbers, but that if + he would go with them on the war-path, they felt assured they could + overcome their enemies. Carson, however, instead of encouraging the + Comanches and Arapahoes to fight, induced them to negotiate with the + Sioux. He was sent as mediator, and so successfully accomplished his + mission that the intruding tribe consented to leave the hunting-grounds of + the Comanches as soon as the buffalo season was over; which they did, and + there was no more trouble. + </p> + <p> + After many adventures in California with Fremont, Carson, with his + inseparable friend, L. B. Maxwell, embarked in the wool-raising industry. + Shortly after they had established themselves on their ranch, the Apaches + made one of their frequent murdering and plundering raids through Northern + New Mexico, killing defenceless women and children, running off stock of + all kinds, and laying waste every little ranch they came across in their + wild foray. Not very far from the city of Santa Fe, they ruthlessly + butchered a Mr. White and his son, though three of their number were slain + by the brave gentlemen before they were overpowered. Other of the + blood-thirsty savages carried away the women and children of the desolated + home and took them to their mountain retreat in the vicinity of Las Vegas. + Mr. White was a highly respected merchant, and news of this outrage + spreading rapidly through the settlements, it was determined that the + savages should not go without punishment this time, at least. Carson's + reputation as an Indian fighter was at its height, so the natives of the + country sent for him, and declined to move until he came. For some + unexplained reason, after he arrived at Las Vegas, he was not placed in + charge of the posse, that position having already been given to a + Frenchman. Carson, as was usual with him, never murmured because he was + assigned to a subordinate position, but took his place, ready to do his + part in whatever capacity. + </p> + <p> + The party set out for the stronghold of the savages, and rode night and + day on the trail of the murderers, hoping to surprise them and recapture + the women and children; but so much time had been wasted in delays, that + Carson feared they would only find the mutilated bodies of the poor + captives. In a few days after leaving Las Vegas, the retreat of the + savages was discovered in the fastness of the mountains, where they had + fortified themselves in such a manner that they could resist ten times the + number of their pursuers. Carson, as soon as he saw them, without a + second's hesitation, and giving a characteristic yell, dashed in, + expecting, of course, that the men would follow him; but they only stood + in gaping wonderment at his bravery, not daring to venture after him. He + did not discover his dilemma until he had advanced so far alone that + escape seemed impossible. But here his coolness, which always served him + in the moment of supreme danger, saved his scalp. As the savages turned on + him, he threw himself on the off side of his horse, Indian fashion, for he + was as expert in a trick of that kind as the savages themselves, and rode + back to the little command. He had six arrows in his horse and a bullet + through his coat! + </p> + <p> + The Indians in those days were poorly armed, and did not long follow up + the pursuit after Carson; for, observing the squad of mounted Mexicans, + they retreated to the top of a rocky prominence, from which point they + could watch every movement of the whites. Carson was raging at the apathy, + not to say cowardice, of the men who had sent for him to join them, but he + kept his counsel to himself; for he was anxious to save the captured women + and children. He talked to the men very earnestly, however, exhorting them + not to flinch in the duty they had come so far to perform, and for which + he had come at their call. This had the desired effect; for he induced + them to make a charge, which was gallantly performed, and in such a brave + manner that the Indians fled, scarcely making an effort to defend + themselves. Five of their number were killed at the furious onset of the + Mexicans, but unfortunately, as he anticipated, only the murdered corpses + of the women and children were the result of the victory. + </p> + <p> + President Polk appointed Carson to a second lieutenancy,<a + href="#linknote-48" name="linknoteref-48" id="linknoteref-48"><small>48</small></a> + and his first official duty was conducting fifty soldiers under his + command through the country of the Comanches, who were then at war with + the whites. A fight occurred at a place known as Point of Rocks,<a + href="#linknote-49" name="linknoteref-49" id="linknoteref-49"><small>49</small></a> + where on arriving, Carson found a company of volunteers for the Mexican + War, and camped near them. About dawn the next morning, all the animals of + the volunteers were captured by a band of Indians, while the herders were + conducting them to the river-bottom to graze. The herders had no weapons, + and luckily, in the confusion attending the bold theft, ran into Carson's + camp; and as he, with his men, were ready with their rifles, they + recaptured the oxen, but the horses were successfully driven off by their + captors. + </p> + <p> + Several of the savages were mortally wounded by Carson's prompt charge, as + signs after they had cleared out proved; but the Indian custom of tying + the wounded on their ponies precluded the chance of taking any scalps. The + wily Comanche, like the Arab of the desert, is generally successful in his + sudden assaults, but Carson, who was never surprised, was always equal to + his tactics. + </p> + <p> + One of the two soldiers whose turn it had been to stand guard that morning + was discovered to have been asleep when the alarm of Indians was given, + and Carson at once administered the Indian method of punishment, making + the man wear the dress of a squaw for that day. Then going on, he arrived + at Santa Fe, where he turned over his little command. + </p> + <p> + While there, he heard that a gang of those desperadoes so frequently the + nuisance of a new country had formed a conspiracy to murder and rob two + wealthy citizens whom they had volunteered to accompany over the Trail to + the States. The caravan was already many miles on its way when Carson was + informed of the plot. In less than an hour he had hired sixteen picked men + and was on his march to intercept them. He took a short cut across the + mountains, taking especial care to keep out of the way of the Indians, who + were on the war-path, but as to whose movements he was always posted. In + two days he came upon a camp of United States recruits, en route to the + military posts in New Mexico, whose commander offered to accompany him + with twenty men. Carson accepted the generous proposal, by forced marches + soon overtook the caravan of traders, and at once placed one Fox, the + leader of the gang, in irons, after which he informed the owners of the + caravan of the escape they had made from the wretches whom they were + treating so kindly. At first the gentlemen were astounded at the + disclosures made to them, but soon admitted that they had noticed many + things which convinced them that the plot really existed, and but for the + opportune arrival of the brave frontiersman it would shortly have been + carried out. + </p> + <p> + The members of the caravan who were perfectly trustworthy were then + ordered to corral the rest of the conspirators, thirty-five in number, and + they were driven out of camp, with the exception of Fox, the leader, whom + Carson conveyed to Taos. He was imprisoned for several months, but as a + crime in intent only could be proved against him, and as the adobe walls + of the house where he was confined were not secure enough to retain a man + who desired to release himself, he was finally liberated, and cleared out. + </p> + <p> + The traders were profuse in their thanks to Carson for his timely + interference, but he refused every offer of remuneration. On their return + to Santa Fe from St. Louis, however, they presented him with a magnificent + pair of pistols, upon whose silver mounting was an inscription + commemorating his brave deed and the gratitude of the donors. + </p> + <p> + The following summer was spent in a visit to St. Louis, and early in the + fall he returned over the Trail, arriving at the Cheyenne village on the + Upper Arkansas without meeting with any incident worthy of note. On + reaching that point, he learned that the Indians had received a terrible + affront from an officer commanding a detachment of United States troops, + who had whipped one of their chiefs; and that consequently the whole tribe + was enraged, and burning for revenge upon the whites. Carson was the first + white man to approach the place since the insult, and so many years had + elapsed since he was the hunter at Bent's Fort, and so grievously had the + Indians been offended, that his name no longer guaranteed safety to the + party with whom he was travelling, nor even insured respect to himself, in + the state of excitement existing in the village. Carson, however, + deliberately pushed himself into the presence of a war council which was + just then in session to consider the question of attacking the caravan, + giving orders to his men to keep close together, and guard against a + surprise. + </p> + <p> + The savages, supposing that he could not understand their language, talked + without restraint, and unfolded their plans to capture his party and kill + them all, particularly the leader. After they had reached this decision, + Carson coolly rose and addressed the council in the Cheyenne language, + informing the Indians who he was, of his former associations with and + kindness to their tribe, and that now he was ready to render them any + assistance they might require; but as to their taking his scalp, he + claimed the right to say a word. + </p> + <p> + The Indians departed, and Carson went on his way; but there were hundreds + of savages in sight on the sand hills, and, though they made no attack, he + was well aware that he was in their power, nor had they abandoned the idea + of capturing his train. His coolness and deliberation kept his men in + spirit, and yet out of the whole fifteen, which was the total number of + his force, there were only two or three on whom he could place any + reliance in case of an emergency. + </p> + <p> + When the train camped for the night, the wagons were corralled, and the + men and mules all brought inside the circle. Grass was cut with + sheath-knives and fed to the animals, instead of their being picketed out + as usual, and as large a guard as possible detailed. When the camp had + settled down to perfect quiet, Carson crawled outside it, taking with him + a Mexican boy, and after explaining to him the danger which threatened + them all, told him that it was in his power to save the lives of the + company. Then he sent him on alone to Rayedo, a journey of nearly three + hundred miles, to ask for an escort of United States troops to be sent out + to meet the train, impressing upon the brave little Mexican the importance + of putting a good many miles between himself and the camp before morning. + And so he started him, with a few rations of food, without letting the + rest of his party know that such measures were necessary. The boy had been + in Carson's service for some time, and was known to him as a faithful and + active messenger, and in a wild country like New Mexico, with the outdoor + life and habits of its people, such a journey was not an unusual + occurrence. + </p> + <p> + Carson now returned to the camp, to watch all night himself, and at + daybreak all were on the Trail again. No Indians made their appearance + until nearly noon, when five warriors came galloping up toward the train. + As soon as they came close enough to hear his voice, Carson ordered them + to halt, and going up to them, told how he had sent a messenger to Rayedo + the night before to inform the troops that their tribe were annoying him, + and that if he or his men were molested, terrible punishment would be + inflicted by those who would surely come to his relief. The savages + replied that they would look for the moccasin tracks, which they + undoubtedly found, and the whole village passed away toward the hills + after a little while, evidently seeking a place of safety from an expected + attack by the troops. + </p> + <p> + The young Mexican overtook the detachment of soldiers whose officer had + caused all the trouble with the Indians, to whom he told his story; but + failing to secure any sympathy, he continued his journey to Rayedo, and + procured from the garrison of that place immediate assistance. Major + Grier, commanding the post, at once despatched a troop of his regiment, + which, by forced marches, met Carson twenty-five miles below Bent's Fort, + and though it encountered no Indians, the rapid movement had a good effect + upon the savages, impressing them with the power and promptness of the + government. + </p> + <p> + Early in the spring of 1865, Carson was ordered, with three companies, to + put a stop to the depredations of marauding bands of Cheyennes, Kiowas, + and Comanches upon the caravans and emigrant outfits travelling the Santa + Fe Trail. He left Fort Union with his command and marched over the Dry or + Cimarron route to the Arkansas River, for the purpose of establishing a + fortified camp at Cedar Bluffs, or Cold Spring, to afford a refuge for the + freight trains on that dangerous part of the Trail. The Indians had for + some time been harassing not only the caravans of the citizen traders, but + also those of the government, which carried supplies to the several + military posts in the Territory of New Mexico. An expedition was therefore + planned by Carson to punish them, and he soon found an opportunity to + strike a blow near the adobe fort on the Canadian River. His force + consisted of the First Regiment of New Mexican Volunteer Cavalry and + seventy-five friendly Indians, his entire command numbering fourteen + commissioned officers and three hundred and ninety-six enlisted men. With + these he attacked the Kiowa village, consisting of about one hundred and + fifty lodges. The fight was a very severe one, and lasted from half-past + eight in the morning until after sundown. The savages, with more than + ordinary intrepidity and boldness, made repeated stands against the fierce + onslaughts of Carson's cavalrymen, but were at last forced to give way, + and were cut down as they stubbornly retreated, suffering a loss of sixty + killed and wounded. In this battle only two privates and one + noncommissioned officer were killed, and one non-commissioned officer and + thirteen privates, four of whom were friendly Indians, wounded. The + command destroyed one hundred and fifty lodges, a large amount of dried + meats, berries, buffalo-robes, cooking utensils, and also a buggy and + spring-wagon, the property of Sierrito,<a href="#linknote-50" + name="linknoteref-50" id="linknoteref-50"><small>50</small></a> the Kiowa + chief. + </p> + <p> + In his official account of the fight, Carson states that he found + ammunition in the village, which had been furnished, no doubt, by + unscrupulous Mexican traders. + </p> + <p> + He told me that he never was deceived by Indian tactics but once in his + life. He said that he was hunting with six others after buffalo, in the + summer of 1835; that they had been successful, and came into their little + bivouac one night very tired, intending to start for the rendezvous at + Bent's Fort the next morning. They had a number of dogs, among them some + excellent animals. These barked a good deal, and seemed restless, and the + men heard wolves. + </p> + <p> + "I saw," said Kit, "two big wolves sneaking about, one of them quite close + to us. Gordon, one of my men, wanted to fire his rifle at it, but I did + not let him, for fear he would hit a dog. I admit that I had a sort of an + idea that those wolves might be Indians; but when I noticed one of them + turn short around, and heard the clashing of his teeth as he rushed at one + of the dogs, I felt easy then, and was certain that they were wolves sure + enough. But the red devil fooled me, after all, for he had two dried + buffalo bones in his hands under the wolfskin, and he rattled them + together every time he turned to make a dash at the dogs! Well, by and by + we all dozed off, and it wasn't long before I was suddenly aroused by a + noise and a big blaze. I rushed out the first thing for our mules, and + held them. If the savages had been at all smart, they could have killed us + in a trice, but they ran as soon as they fired at us. They killed one of + my men, putting five bullets in his body and eight in his buffalo-robe. + The Indians were a band of Sioux on the war-trail after a band of Snakes, + and found us by sheer accident. They endeavoured to ambush us the next + morning, but we got wind of their little game and killed three of them, + including the chief." + </p> + <p> + Carson's nature was made up of some very noble attributes. He was brave, + but not reckless like Custer; a veritable exponent of Christian altruism, + and as true to his friends as the needle to the pole. Under the average + stature, and rather delicate-looking in his physical proportions, he was + nevertheless a quick, wiry man, with nerves of steel, and possessing an + indomitable will. He was full of caution, but showed a coolness in the + moment of supreme danger that was good to witness. + </p> + <p> + During a short visit at Fort Lyon, Colorado, where a favourite son of his + was living, early in the morning of May 23, 1868, while mounting his horse + in front of his quarters (he was still fond of riding), an artery in his + neck was suddenly ruptured, from the effects of which, notwithstanding the + medical assistance rendered by the fort surgeons, he died in a few + moments. + </p> + <p> + His remains, after reposing for some time at Fort Lyon, were taken to + Taos, so long his home in New Mexico, where an appropriate monument was + erected over them. In the Plaza at Santa Fe, his name also appears cut on + a cenotaph raised to commemorate the services of the soldiers of the + Territory. As an Indian fighter he was matchless. The identical rifle used + by him for more than thirty-five years, and which never failed him, he + bequeathed, just before his death, to Montezuma Lodge, A. F. & A. M., + Santa Fe, of which he was a member. + </p> + <p> + James Bridger, "Major Bridger," or "Old Jim Bridger," as we was called, + another of the famous coterie of pioneer frontiersmen, was born in + Washington, District of Columbia, in 1807. When very young, a mere boy in + fact, he joined the great trapping expedition under the leadership of + James Ashley, and with it travelled to the far West, remote from the + extreme limit of border civilization, where he became the compeer and + comrade of Carson, and certainly the foremost mountaineer, strictly + speaking, the United States has produced. + </p> + <p> + Having left behind him all possibilities of education at such an early + age, he was illiterate in his speech and as ignorant of the + conventionalities of polite society as an Indian; but he possessed a heart + overflowing with the milk of human kindness, was generous in the extreme, + and honest and true as daylight. + </p> + <p> + He was especially distinguished for the discovery of a defile through the + intricate mazes of the Rocky Mountains, which bears his name, Bridger's + Pass. He rendered important services as guide and scout during the early + preliminary surveys for a transcontinental railroad, and for a series of + years was in the employ of the government, in the old regular army on the + great plains and in the mountains, long before the breaking out of the + Civil War. To Bridger also belongs the honour of having seen, first of all + white men, the Great Salt Lake of Utah, in the winter of 1824-25. + </p> + <p> + After a series of adventures, hairbreadth escapes, and terrible encounters + with the Indians, in 1856 he purchased a farm near Westport, Missouri; but + soon left it in his hunger for the mountains, to return to it only when + worn-out and blind, to be buried there without even the rudest tablet to + mark the spot. + </p> + <p> + "I would rather sleep in the southern corner of a little country + churchyard, than in the tomb of the Capulets." This quotation came to my + mind one Sunday morning two or three years ago, as I mused over Bridger's + neglected grave among the low hills beyond the quaint old town of + Westport. I thought I knew, as I stood there, that he whose bones were + mouldering beneath the blossoming clover at my feet, would have wished for + his last couch a more perfect solitude and isolation from the wearisome + world's busy sound than even the immortal Burke. + </p> + <p> + The grassy mound, over which there was no stone to record the name of its + occupant, covered the remains of the last of his class, a type vanished + forever, for the border is a thing of the past; and upon the gentle breeze + of that delightful morning, like the droning of bees in a full flowered + orchard, was wafted to my ears the hum of Kansas City's civilization, only + three or four miles distant, in all of which I was sure there was nothing + that would have been congenial to the old frontiersman. + </p> + <p> + At one time early in the '60's, while the engineers of the proposed Union + Pacific Railway were temporarily in Denver, then an insignificant + mushroom-hamlet, they became somewhat confused as to the most practicable + point in the range over which to run their line. After debating the + question, they determined, upon a suggestion from some of the old + settlers, to send for Jim Bridger, who was then visiting in St. Louis. A + pass, via the overland stage, was enclosed in a letter to him, and he was + urged to start for Denver at once, though nothing of the business for + which his presence was required was told him in the text. + </p> + <p> + In about two weeks the old man arrived, and the next morning, after he had + rested, asked why he had been sent for from such a distance. + </p> + <p> + The engineers then began to explain their dilemma. The old mountaineer + waited patiently until they had finished, when, with a look of disgust on + his withered countenance, he demanded a large piece of paper, remarking at + the same time,— + </p> + <p> + "I could a told you fellers all that in St. Louis, and saved you the + expense of bringing me out here." + </p> + <p> + He was handed a sheet of manilla paper, used for drawing the details of + bridge plans. The veteran pathfinder spread it on the ground before him, + took a dead coal from the ashes of the fire, drew a rough outline map, and + pointing to a certain peak just visible on the serrated horizon, said,— + </p> + <p> + "There's where you fellers can cross with your road, and nowhere else, + without more diggin' an' cuttin' than you think of." + </p> + <p> + That crude map is preserved, I have been told, in the archives of the + great corporation, and its line crosses the main spurs of the Rocky + Mountains, just where Bridger said it could with the least work. + </p> + <p> + The resemblance of old John Smith, another of the coterie, to President + Andrew Johnson was absolutely astonishing. When that chief magistrate, in + his "swinging around the circle," had arrived at St. Louis, and was riding + through the streets of that city in an open barouche, he was pointed out + to Bridger, who happened to be there. But the venerable guide and scout, + with supreme disgust depicted on his countenance at the idea of any one + attempting to deceive him, said to his informant,— + </p> + <p> + "H—-l! Bill, you can't fool me! That's old John Smith." + </p> + <p> + At one time many years ago, during Bridger's first visit to St. Louis, + then a relatively small place, a friend accidentally came across him + sitting on a dry-goods box in one of the narrow streets, evidently + disgusted with his situation. To the inquiry as to what he was doing there + all alone, the old man replied,— + </p> + <p> + "I've been settin' in this infernal canyon ever sence mornin', waitin' for + some one to come along an' invite me to take a drink. Hundreds of fellers + has passed both ways, but none of 'em has opened his head. I never seen + sich a onsociable crowd!" + </p> + <p> + Bridger had a fund of most remarkable stories, which he had drawn upon so + often that he really believed them to be true. + </p> + <p> + General Gatlin,<a href="#linknote-51" name="linknoteref-51" + id="linknoteref-51"><small>51</small></a> who was graduated from West + Point in the early '30's, and commanded Fort Gibson in the Cherokee Nation + over sixty years ago, told me that he remembered Bridger very well; and + had once asked the old guide whether he had ever been in the great canyon + of the Colorado River. + </p> + <p> + "Yes, sir," replied the mountaineer, "I have, many a time. There's where + the oranges and lemons bear all the time, and the only place I was ever at + where the moon's always full!" + </p> + <p> + He told me and also many others, at various times, that in the winter of + 1830 it began to snow in the valley of the Great Salt Lake, and continued + for seventy days without cessation. The whole country was covered to a + depth of seventy feet, and all the vast herds of buffalo were caught in + the storm and died, but their carcasses were perfectly preserved. + </p> + <p> + "When spring came, all I had to do," declared he, "was to tumble 'em into + Salt Lake, an' I had pickled buffalo enough for myself and the whole Ute + Nation for years!" + </p> + <p> + He said that on account of that terrible storm, which annihilated them, + there have been no buffalo in that region since. + </p> + <p> + Bridger had been the guide, interpreter, and companion of that + distinguished Irish sportsman, Sir George Gore, whose strange tastes led + him in 1855 to abandon life in Europe and bury himself for over two years + among the savages in the wildest and most unfrequented glens of the Rocky + Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The outfit and adventures of this titled Nimrod, conducted as they were on + the largest scale, exceeded anything of the kind ever before seen on this + continent, and the results of his wanderings will compare favourably with + those of Gordon Cumming in Africa. + </p> + <p> + Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of his outfit when it is stated + that his retinue consisted of about fifty individuals, including + secretaries, steward, cooks, fly-makers, dog-tenders, servants, etc. He + was borne over the country with a train of thirty wagons, besides numerous + saddle-horses and dogs. + </p> + <p> + During his lengthened hunt he killed the enormous aggregate of forty + grizzly bears and twenty-five hundred buffalo, besides numerous antelope + and other small game. + </p> + <p> + Bridger said of Sir George that he was a bold, dashing, and successful + hunter, and an agreeable gentleman. His habit was to lie in bed until + about ten or eleven o'clock in the morning, then he took a bath, ate his + breakfast, and set out, generally alone, for the day's hunt, and it was + not unusual for him to remain out until ten at night, seldom returning to + the tents without augmenting the catalogue of his beasts. His dinner was + then served, to which he generally extended an invitation to Bridger, and + after the meal was over, and a few glasses of wine had been drunk, he was + in the habit of reading from some book, and eliciting from Bridger his + comments thereon. His favourite author was Shakespeare, which Bridger + "reckin'd was too highfalutin" for him; moreover he remarked, "thet he + rather calcerlated that thar big Dutchman, Mr. Full-stuff, was a leetle + too fond of lager beer," and thought it would have been better for the old + man if he had "stuck to Bourbon whiskey straight." + </p> + <p> + Bridger seemed very much interested in the adventures of Baron Munchausen, + but admitted after Sir George had finished reading them, that "he be + dog'oned ef he swallered everything that thar Baron Munchausen said," and + thought he was "a darned liar," yet he acknowledged that some of his own + adventures among the Blackfeet woul be equally marvellous "if writ down in + a book." + </p> + <p> + A man whose one act had made him awe-inspiring was Belzy Dodd. Uncle Dick + Wooton, in relating the story, says: "I don't know what his first name + was, but Belzy was what we called him. His head was as bald as a billiard + ball, and he wore a wig. One day while we were all at Bent's Fort, while + there were a great number of Indians about, Belzy concluded to have a bit + of fun. He walked around, eying the Indians fiercely for some time, and + finally, dashing in among them, he gave a series of war-whoops which + discounted a Comanche yell, and pulling off his wig, threw it down at the + feet of the astonished and terror-stricken red men. + </p> + <p> + "The savages thought the fellow had jerked off his own scalp, and not one + of them wanted to stay and see what would happen next. They left the fort, + running like so many scared jack-rabbits, and after that none of them + could be induced to approach anywhere near Dodd." + </p> + <p> + They called him "The-white-man-who-scalps-himself," and Uncle Dick said + that he believed he could have travelled across the plains alone with + perfect safety. + </p> + <p> + Jim Baker was another noted mountaineer and hunter of the same era as + Carson, Bridger, Wooton, Hobbs, and many others. Next to Kit Carson, Baker + was General Fremont's most valued scout. + </p> + <p> + He was born in Illinois, and lived at home until he was eighteen years of + age, when he enlisted in the service of the American Fur Company, went + immediately to the Rocky Mountains, and remained there until his death. He + married a wife according to the Indian custom, from the Snake tribe, + living with her relatives many years and cultivating many of their habits, + ideas, and superstitions. He firmly believed in the efficacy of the charms + and incantations of the medicine men in curing diseases, divining where + their enemy was to be found, forecasting the result of war expeditions, + and other such ridiculous matters. Unfortunately, too, Baker would + sometimes take a little more whiskey than he could conveniently carry, and + often made a fool of himself, but he was a generous, noble-hearted fellow, + who would risk his life for a friend at any time, or divide his last + morsel of food. + </p> + <p> + Like mountaineers generally, Baker was liberal to a fault, and eminently + improvident. He made a fortune by his work, but at the annual rendezvous + of the traders, at Bent's Fort or the old Pueblo, would throw away the + earnings of months in a few days' jollification. + </p> + <p> + He told General Marcy, who was a warm friend of his, that after one season + in which he had been unusually successful in accumulating a large amount + of valuable furs, from the sale of which he had realized the handsome sum + of nine thousand dollars, he resolved to abandon his mountain life, return + to the settlements, buy a farm, and live comfortably during the remainder + of his days. He accordingly made ready to leave, and was on the eve of + starting when a friend invited him to visit a monte-bank which had been + organized at the rendezvous. He was easily led away, determined to take a + little social amusement with his old comrade, whom he might never see + again, and followed him; the result of which was that the whiskey + circulated freely, and the next morning found Baker without a cent of + money; he had lost everything. His entire plans were thus frustrated, and + he returned to the mountains, hunting with the Indians until he died. + </p> + <p> + Jim Baker's opinions of the wild Indians of the great plains and the + mountains were very decided: "That they are the most onsartinist varmints + in all creation, an' I reckon thar not more'n half human; for you never + seed a human, arter you'd fed an' treated him to the best fixin's in your + lodge, jis turn round and steal all your horses, or ary other thing he + could lay his hands on. No, not adzactly. He would feel kind o' grateful, + and ask you to spread a blanket in his lodge ef you ever came his way. But + the Injin don't care shucks for you, and is ready to do you a lot of + mischief as soon as he quits your feed. No, Cap.," he said to Marcy when + relating this, "it's not the right way to make 'em gifts to buy a peace; + but ef I war gov'nor of these United States, I'll tell what I'd do. I'd + invite 'em all to a big feast, and make 'em think I wanted to have a talk; + and as soon as I got 'em together, I'd light in and raise the har of half + of 'em, and then t'other half would be mighty glad to make terms that + would stick. That's the way I'd make a treaty with the dog'oned + red-bellied varmints; and as sure as you're born, Cap., that's the only + way." + </p> + <p> + The general, when he first met Baker, inquired of him if he had travelled + much over the settlements of the United States before he came to the + mountains; to which he said: "Right smart, right smart, Cap." He then + asked whether he had visited New York or New Orleans. "No, I hasn't, Cap., + but I'll tell you whar I have been. I've been mighty nigh all over four + counties in the State of Illinois!" + </p> + <p> + He was very fond of his squaw and children, and usually treated them + kindly; only when he was in liquor did he at all maltreat them. + </p> + <p> + Once he came over into New Mexico, where General Marcy was stationed at + the time, and determined that for the time being he would cast aside his + leggings, moccasins, and other mountain dress, and wear a civilized + wardrobe. Accordingly, he fitted himself out with one. When Marcy met him + shortly after he had donned the strange clothes, he had undergone such an + entire change that the general remarked he should hardly have known him. + He did not take kindly to this, and said: "Consarn these store butes, + Cap.; they choke my feet like h—-l." It was the first time in twenty + years that he had worn anything on his feet but moccasins, and they were + not ready for the torture inflicted by breaking in a new pair of absurdly + fitting boots. He soon threw them away, and resumed the softer foot-gear + of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + Baker was a famous bear hunter, and had been at the death of many a + grizzly. On one occasion he was setting his traps with a comrade on the + head waters of the Arkansas, when they suddenly met two young grizzly + bears about the size of full-grown dogs. Baker remarked to his friend that + if they could "light in and kill the varmints" with their knives, it would + be a big thing to boast of. They both accordingly laid aside their rifles + and "lit in," Baker attacking one and his comrade the other. The bears + immediately raised themselves on their haunches, and were ready for the + encounter. Baker ran around, endeavouring to get in a blow from behind + with his long knife; but the young brute he had tackled was too quick for + him, and turned as he went around so as always to confront him face to + face. He knew if he came within reach of his claws, that although young, + he could inflict a formidable wound; moreover, he was in fear that the + howls of the cubs would bring the infuriated mother to their rescue, when + the hunters' chances of getting away would be slim. These thoughts floated + hurriedly through his mind, and made him desirous to end the fight as soon + as he could. He made many vicious lunges at the bear, but the animal + invariably warded them off with his strong fore legs like a boxer. This + kind of tactics, however, cost the lively beast several severe cuts on his + shoulders, which made him the more furious. At length he took the + offensive, and with his month frothing with rage, bounded toward Baker, + who caught and wrestled with him, succeeding in giving him a death-wound + under the ribs. + </p> + <p> + While all this was going on, his comrade had been furiously engaged with + the other bear, and by this time had become greatly exhausted, with the + odds decidedly against him. He entreated Baker to come to his assistance + at once, which he did; but much to his astonishment, as soon as he entered + the second contest his comrade ran off, leaving him to fight the battle + alone. He was, however, again victorious, and soon had the satisfaction of + seeing his two antagonists stretched out in front of him, but as he + expressed it, "I made my mind up I'd never fight nary nother grizzly + without a good shootin'-iron in my paws." + </p> + <p> + He established a little store at the crossing of Green River, and had for + some time been doing a fair business in trafficking with the emigrants and + trading with the Indians; but shortly a Frenchman came to the same + locality and set up a rival establishment, which, of course, divided the + limited trade, and naturally reduced the income of Baker's business. + </p> + <p> + This engendered a bitter feeling of hostility, which soon culminated in a + cessation of all social intercourse between the two men. About this time + General Marcy arrived there on his way to California, and he describes the + situation of affairs thus:— + </p> + <p> + "I found Baker standing in his door, with a revolver loaded and cocked in + each hand, very drunk and immensely excited. I dismounted and asked him + the cause of all this disturbance. He answered: 'That thar yaller-bellied, + toad-eatin' Parly Voo, over thar, an' me, we've been havin' a small chance + of a scrimmage to-day. The sneakin' pole-cat, I'll raise his har yet, ef + he don't quit these diggins'!' + </p> + <p> + "It seems that they had an altercation in the morning, which ended in a + challenge, when they ran to their cabins, seized their revolvers, and from + the doors, which were only about a hundred yards from each other, fired. + Then they retired to their cabins, took a drink of whiskey, reloaded their + revolvers, and again renewed the combat. This strange duel had been going + on for several hours when I arrived, but, fortunately for them, the + whiskey had such an effect on their nerves that their aim was very + unsteady, and none of the shots had as yet taken effect. + </p> + <p> + "I took away Baker's revolvers, telling him how ashamed I was to find a + man of his usually good sense making such a fool of himself. He gave in + quietly, saying that he knew I was his friend, but did not think I would + wish to have him take insults from a cowardly Frenchman. + </p> + <p> + "The following morning at daylight Jim called at my tent to bid me + good-by, and seemed very sorry for what had occurred the day before. He + stated that this was the first time since his return from New Mexico that + he had allowed himself to drink whiskey, and when the whiskey was in him + he had 'nary sense.'" + </p> + <p> + Among the many men who have distinguished themselves as mountaineers, + traders, and Indian fighters along the line of the Old Trail, was one who + eventually became the head chief of one of the most numerous and valorous + tribes of North American savages—James P. Beckwourth. Estimates of + him vary considerably. Francis Parkman, the historian, who I think never + saw him and writes merely from hearsay, says: "He is a ruffian of the + worst class; bloody and treacherous, without honor or honesty; such, at + least, is the character he bears on the great plains. Yet in his case the + standard rules of character fail; for though he will stab a man in his + slumber, he will also do the most desperate and daring acts." + </p> + <p> + I never saw Beckwourth, but I have heard of him from those of my + mountaineer friends who knew him intimately; I think that he died long + before Parkman made his tour to the Rocky Mountains. Colonel Boone, the + Bents, Carson, Maxwell, and others ascribed to him no such traits as those + given by Parkman, and as to his honesty, it is an unquestioned fact that + Beckwourth was the most honest trader among the Indians of all who were + then engaged in the business. As Kit Carson and Colonel Boone were the + only Indian agents whom I ever knew or heard of that dealt honestly with + the various tribes, as they were always ready to acknowledge, and the + withdrawal of the former by the government was the cause of a great war, + so also Beckwourth was an honest Indian trader. + </p> + <p> + He was a born leader of men, and was known from the Yellowstone to the Rio + Grande, from Santa Fe to Independence, and in St. Louis. From the latter + town he ran away when a boy with a party of trappers, and himself became + one of the most successful of that hardy class. The woman who bore him had + played in her childhood beneath the palm trees of Africa; his father was a + native of France, and went to the banks of the wild Mississippi of his own + free will, but probably also from reasons of political interest to his + government. + </p> + <p> + In person Beckwourth was of medium height and great muscular power, quick + of apprehension, and with courage of the highest order. Probably no man + ever met with more personal adventures involving danger to life, even + among the mountaineers and trappers who early in the century faced the + perils of the remote frontier. From his neck he always wore suspended a + perforated bullet, with a large oblong bead on each side of it, tied in + place by a single thread of sinew. This amulet he obtained while chief of + the Crows,<a href="#linknote-52" name="linknoteref-52" id="linknoteref-52"><small>52</small></a> + and it was his "medicine," with which he excited the superstition of his + warriors. + </p> + <p> + His success as a trader among the various tribes of Indians has never been + surpassed; for his close intimacy with them made him know what would best + please their taste, and they bought of him when other traders stood idly + at their stockades, waiting almost hopelessly for customers. + </p> + <p> + But Beckwourth himself said: "The traffic in whiskey for Indian property + was one of the most infernal practices ever entered into by man. Let the + most casual thinker sit down and figure up the profits on a forty-gallon + cask of alcohol, and he will be thunderstruck, or rather whiskey-struck. + When it was to be disposed of, four gallons of water were added to each + gallon of alcohol. In two hundred gallons there are sixteen hundred pints, + for each one of which the trader got a buffalo-robe worth five dollars. + The Indian women toiled many long weeks to dress those sixteen hundred + robes. The white traders got them for worse than nothing; for the poor + Indian mother hid herself and her children until the effect of the poison + passed away from the husband and father, who loved them when he had no + whiskey, and abused and killed them when he had. Six thousand dollars for + sixty gallons of alcohol! Is it a wonder with such profits that men got + rich who were engaged in the fur trade? Or was it a miracle that the + buffalo were gradually exterminated?—killed with so little remorse + that the hides, among the Indians themselves, were known by the + appellation of 'A pint of whiskey.'" + </p> + <p> + Beckwourth claims to have established the Pueblo where the beautiful city + of Pueblo, Colorado, is now situated. He says: "On the 1st of October, + 1842, on the Upper Arkansas, I erected a trading-post and opened a + successful business. In a very short time I was joined by from fifteen to + twenty free trappers, with their families. We all united our labour and + constructed an adobe fort sixty yards square. By the following spring it + had grown into quite a little settlement, and we gave it the name of + Pueblo." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. UNCLE DICK WOOTON. + </h2> + <p> + Immediately after Kit Carson, the second wreath of pioneer laurels, for + bravery and prowess as an Indian fighter, and trapper, must be conceded to + Richens Lacy Wooton, known first as "Dick," in his younger days on the + plains, then, when age had overtaken him, as "Uncle Dick." + </p> + <p> + Born in Virginia, his father, when he was but seven years of age, removed + with his family to Kentucky, where he cultivated a tobacco plantation. + Like his predecessor and lifelong friend Carson, young Wooton tired of the + monotony of farming, and in the summer of 1836 made a trip to the busy + frontier town of Independence, Missouri, where he found a caravan + belonging to Colonel St. Vrain and the Bents, already loaded, and ready to + pull out for the fort built by the latter, and named for them. + </p> + <p> + Wooton had a fair business education, and was superior in this respect to + his companions in the caravan to which he had attached himself. It was by + those rough, but kind-hearted, men that he was called "Dick," as they + could not readily master the more complicated name of "Richens." + </p> + <p> + When he started from Independence on his initial trip across the plains, + he was only nineteen, but, like all Kentuckians, perfectly familiar with a + rifle, and could shoot out a squirrel's eye with the certainty which long + practice and hardened nerves assures. + </p> + <p> + The caravan, in which he was employed as a teamster, was composed of only + seven wagons; but a larger one, in which were more than fifty, had + preceded it, and as that was heavily laden, and the smaller one only + lightly, it was intended to overtake the former before the dangerous + portions of the Trail were reached, which it did in a few days and was + assigned a place in the long line. + </p> + <p> + Every man had to take his turn in standing guard, and the first night that + it fell to young Wooton was at Little Cow Creek, in the Upper Arkansas + valley. Nothing had occurred thus far during the trip to imperil the + safety of the caravan, nor was any attack by the savages looked for. + </p> + <p> + Wooton's post comprehended the whole length of one side of the corral, and + his instructions were to shoot anything he saw moving outside of the line + of mules farthest from the wagons. The young sentry was very vigilant. He + did not feel at all sleepy, but eagerly watched for something that might + possibly come within the prescribed distance, though not really expecting + such a contingency. + </p> + <p> + About two o'clock he heard a slight noise, and saw something moving about, + sixty or seventy yards from where he was lying on the ground, to which he + had dropped the moment the strange sound reached his ears. Of course, his + first thoughts were of Indians, and the more he peered through the + darkness at the slowly moving object, the more convinced he was that it + must be a blood-thirsty savage. + </p> + <p> + He rose to his feet and blazed away, the shot rousing everbody, and all + came rushing with their guns to learn what the matter was. + </p> + <p> + Wooton told the wagon-master that he had seen what he supposed was an + Indian trying to slip up to the mules, and that he had killed him. Some of + the men crept very circumspectly to the spot where the supposed dead + savage was lying, while young Wooton remained at his post eagerly waiting + for their report. Presently he heard a voice cry out: "I'll be d—-d + ef he hain't killed 'Old Jack!'" + </p> + <p> + "Old Jack" was one of the lead mules of one of the wagons. He had torn up + his picket-pin and strayed outside of the lines, with the result that the + faithful brute met his death at the hands of the sentry. Wooton declared + that he was not to be blamed; for the animal had disobeyed orders, while + he had strictly observed them!<a href="#linknote-53" name="linknoteref-53" + id="linknoteref-53"><small>53</small></a> + </p> + <p> + At Pawnee Fork, a few days later, the caravan had a genuine tussle with + the Comanches. It was a bright moonlight night, and about two hundred of + the mounted savages attacked them. It was a rare thing for Indians to + begin a raid after dark, but they swept down on the unsuspecting + teamsters, yelling like a host of demons. They were armed with bows and + arrows generally, though a few of them had fusees.<a href="#linknote-54" + name="linknoteref-54" id="linknoteref-54"><small>54</small></a> They + received a warm greeting, although they were not expected, the guard + noticing the savages in time to prevent a stampede of the animals, which + evidently was the sole purpose for which they came, as they did not + attempt to break through the corral to get at the wagons. It was the mules + they were after. They charged among the men, vainly endeavouring to + frighten the animals and make them break loose, discharging showers of + arrows as they rode by. The camp was too hot for them, however, defended + as it was by old teamsters who had made the dangerous passage of the + plains many times before, and were up to all the Indian tactics. They + failed to get a single mule, but paid for their temerity by leaving three + of their party dead, just where they had been tumbled off their horses, + not even having time to carry the bodies off, as they usually do. + </p> + <p> + Wooton passed some time during the early days of his career at Bent's + Fort, in 1836-37. He was a great favourite with both of the proprietors, + and with them went to the several Indian villages, where he learned the + art of trading with the savages. + </p> + <p> + The winters of the years mentioned were noted for the incursions of the + Pawnees into the region of the fort. They always pretended friendship for + the whites, when any of them were inside of its sacred precincts, but + their whole manner changed when they by some stroke of fortune caught a + trapper or hunter alone on the prairie or in the foot-hills; he was a dead + man sure, and his scalp was soon dangling at the belt of his cowardly + assassins. Hardly a day passed without witnessing some poor fellow running + for the fort with a band of the red devils after him; frequently he + escaped the keen edge of their scalping-knife, but every once in a while a + man was killed. At one time, two herders who were with their animals + within fifty yards of the fort, going out to the grazing ground, were + killed and every hoof of stock run off. + </p> + <p> + A party from the fort, comprising only eight men, among whom was young + Wooton, made up for lost time with the Indians, at the crossing of Pawnee + Fork, the same place where he had had his first fight. The men had set out + from the fort for the purpose of meeting a small caravan of wagons from + the East, loaded with supplies for the Bents' trading post. It happened + that a band of sixteen Pawnees were watching for the arrival of the train, + too.<a href="#linknote-55" name="linknoteref-55" id="linknoteref-55"><small>55</small></a> + Wooton's party were well mounted, while the Pawnees were on foot, and + although the savages were two to one, the advantage was decidedly in + favour of the whites. + </p> + <p> + The Indians were armed with bows and arrows only, and while it was an easy + matter for the whites to keep out of the way of the shower of missiles + which the Indians commenced to hurl at them, the latter became an easy + prey to the unerring rifles of their assailants, who killed thirteen out + of the sixteen in a very short time. The remaining three took French leave + of their comrades at the beginning of the conflict, and abandoning their + arms rushed up to the caravan, which was just appearing over a small + divide, and gave themselves up. The Indian custom was observed in their + case,<a href="#linknote-56" name="linknoteref-56" id="linknoteref-56"><small>56</small></a> + although it was rarely that any prisoners were taken in these conflicts on + the Trail. Another curious custom was also followed.<a href="#linknote-57" + name="linknoteref-57" id="linknoteref-57"><small>57</small></a> When the + party encamped they were well fed, and the next morning supplied with + rations enough to last them until they could reach one of their villages, + and sent off to tell their head chief what had become of the rest of his + warriors. + </p> + <p> + Wooton had an adventure once while he was stationed at Bent's Fort during + a trading expedition with the Utes, on the Purgatoire, or Purgatory River,<a + href="#linknote-58" name="linknoteref-58" id="linknoteref-58"><small>58</small></a> + about ten or twelve miles from Trinidad. He had taken with him, with + others, a Shawnee Indian. Only a short time before their departure from + the fort, an Indian of that tribe had been murdered by a Ute, and one day + this Shawnee who was with Wooton spied a Ute, when revenge inspired him, + and he forthwith killed his enemy. Knowing that as soon as the news of the + shooting reached the Ute village, which was not a great distance off, the + whole tribe would be down upon him, Wooton abandoned any attempt to trade + with them and tried to get out of their country as quickly as he could. + </p> + <p> + As he expected, the Utes followed on his trail, and came up with his + little party on a prairie where there was not the slightest chance to + ambush or hide. They had to fight, because they could not help it, but + resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible, as the Utes + outnumbered them twenty to one; Wooton having only eight men with him, + including the Shawnee. + </p> + <p> + The pack-animals, of which they had a great many, loaded with the goods + intended for the savages, were corralled in a circle, inside of which the + men hurried themselves and awaited the first assault of the foe. In a few + moments the Utes began to circle around the trappers and open fire. The + trappers promptly responded, and they made every shot count; for all of + the men, not even excepting the Shawnee, were experts with the rifle. They + did not mind the arrows which the Utes showered upon them, as few, if any, + reached to where they stood. The savages had a few guns, but they were of + the poorest quality; besides, they did not know how to handle them then as + they learned to do later, so their bullets were almost as harmless as + their arrows. + </p> + <p> + The trappers made terrible havoc among the Utes' horses, killing so many + of them that the savages in despair abandoned the fight and gave Wooton + and his men an opportunity to get away, which they did as rapidly as + possible. + </p> + <p> + The Raton Pass, through which the Old Trail ran, was a relatively fair + mountain road, but originally it was almost impossible for anything in the + shape of a wheeled vehicle to get over the narrow rock-ribbed barrier; + saddle horses and pack-mules could, however, make the trip without much + difficulty. It was the natural highway to southeastern Colorado and + northeastern New Mexico, but the overland coaches could not get to + Trinidad by the shortest route, and as the caravans also desired to make + the same line, it occurred to Uncle Dick that he would undertake to hew + out a road through the pass, which, barring grades, should be as good as + the average turnpike. He could see money in it for him, as he expected to + charge toll, keeping the road in repair at his own expense, and he + succeeded in procuring from the legislatures of Colorado and New Mexico + charters covering the rights and privileges which he demanded for his + project. + </p> + <p> + In the spring of 1866, Uncle Dick took up his abode on the top of the + mountains, built his home, and lived there until two years ago, when he + died at a very ripe old age. + </p> + <p> + The old trapper had imposed on himself anything but an easy task in + constructing his toll-road. There were great hillsides to cut out, immense + ledges of rocks to blast, bridges to build by the dozen, and huge trees to + fell, besides long lines of difficult grading to engineer. + </p> + <p> + Eventually Uncle Dick's road was a fact, but when it was completed, how to + make it pay was a question that seriously disturbed his mind. The method + he employed to solve the problem I will quote in his own words: "Such a + thing as a toll-road was unknown in the country at that time. People who + had come from the States understood, of course, that the object of + building a turnpike was to enable the owner to collect toll from those who + travelled over it, but I had to deal with a great many people who seemed + to think that they should be as free to travel over my well-graded and + bridged roadway as they were to follow an ordinary cow path. + </p> + <p> + "I may say that I had five classes of patrons to do business with. There + was the stage company and its employees, the freighters, the military + authorities, who marched troops and transported supplies over the road, + the Mexicans, and the Indians. + </p> + <p> + "With the stage company, the military authorities, and the American + freighters I had no trouble. With the Indians, when a band came through + now and then, I didn't care to have any controversy about so small a + matter as a few dollars toll! Whenever they came along, the toll-gate went + up, and any other little thing I could do to hurry them on was done + promptly and cheerfully. While the Indians didn't understand anything + about the system of collecting tolls, they seemed to recognize the fact + that I had a right to control the road, and they would generally ride up + to the gate and ask permission to go through. Once in a while the chief of + a band would think compensation for the privilege of going through in + order, and would make me a present of a buckskin or something of that + sort. + </p> + <p> + "My Mexican patrons were the hardest to get along with. Paying for the + privilege of travelling over any road was something they were totally + unused to, and they did not take to it kindly. They were pleased with my + road and liked to travel over it, until they came to the toll-gate. This + they seemed to look upon as an obstruction that no man had a right to + place in the way of a free-born native of the mountain region. They + appeared to regard the toll-gate as a new scheme for holding up travellers + for the purpose of robbery, and many of them evidently thought me a kind + of freebooter, who ought to be suppressed by law. + </p> + <p> + "Holding these views, when I asked them for a certain amount of money, + before raising the toll-gate, they naturally differed with me very + frequently about the propriety of complying with the request. + </p> + <p> + "In other words, there would be at such times probably an honest + difference of opinion between the man who kept the toll-gate and the man + who wanted to get through it. Anyhow, there was a difference, and such + differences had to be adjusted. Sometimes I did it through diplomacy, and + sometimes I did it with a club. It was always settled one way, however, + and that was in accordance with the toll schedule, so that I could never + have been charged with unjust discrimination of rates." + </p> + <p> + Soon after the road was opened a company composed of Californians and + Mexicans, commanded by a Captain Haley, passed Uncle Dick's toll-gate and + house, escorting a large caravan of about a hundred and fifty wagons. + While they stopped there, a non-commissioned officer of the party was + brutally murdered by three soldiers, and Uncle Dick came very near being a + witness to the atrocious deed. + </p> + <p> + The murdered man was a Mexican, and his slayers were Mexicans too. The + trouble originated at Las Vegas, where the privates had been bound and + gagged, by order of the corporal, for creating a disturbance at a fandango + the evening before. + </p> + <p> + The name of the corporal was Juan Torres, and he came down to Uncle Dick's + one evening while the command was encamped on the top of the mountain, + accompanied by the three privates, who had already plotted to kill him, + though he had not the slightest suspicion of it. + </p> + <p> + Uncle Dick, in telling the story, said: "They left at an early hour, going + in an opposite direction from their camp, and I closed my doors soon + after, for the night. They had not been gone more than half an hour, when + I heard them talking not far from my house, and a few seconds later I + heard the half-suppressed cry of a man who has received his death-blow. + </p> + <p> + "I had gone to bed, and lay for a minute or two thinking whether I should + get up and go to the rescue or insure my own safety by remaining where I + was. + </p> + <p> + "A little reflection convinced me that the murderers were undoubtedly + watching my house, to prevent any interference with the carrying out of + their plot, and that if I ventured out I should only endanger my own life, + while there was scarcely a possibility of my being able to save the life + of the man who had been assailed. + </p> + <p> + "In the morning, when I got up, I found the dead body of the corporal + stretched across Raton Creek, not more than a hundred yards from my house. + </p> + <p> + "As I surmised, he had been struck with a heavy club or stone, and it was + at that time that I heard his cry. After that his brains had been beaten + out, and the body left where I had found it. + </p> + <p> + "I at once notified Captain Haley of the occurrence, and identified the + men who had been in company with the corporal, and who were undoubtedly + his murderers. + </p> + <p> + "They were taken into custody, and made a confession, in which they stated + that one of their number had stood at my door on the night of the murder + to shoot me if I had ventured out to assist the corporal. Two of the + scoundrels were hung afterward at Las Vegas, and the third sent to prison + for life." + </p> + <p> + The corporal was buried near where the soldiers were encamped at the time + of the tragedy, and it is his lonely grave which frequently attracts the + attention of the passengers on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe trains, + just before the Raton tunnel is reached, as they travel southward. + </p> + <p> + In 1866-67 the Indians broke out, infesting all the most prominent points + of the Old Santa Fe Trail, and watching an opportunity to rob and murder, + so that the government freight caravans and the stages had to be escorted + by detachments of troops. Fort Larned was the western limit where these + escorts joined the outfits going over into New Mexico. + </p> + <p> + There were other dangers attending the passage of the Trail to travellers + by the stage besides the attacks of the savages. These were the so-called + road agents—masked robbers who regarded life as of little worth in + the accomplishment of their nefarious purposes. Particularly were they + common after the mines of New Mexico began to be operated by Americans. + The object of the bandits was generally the strong box of the express + company, which contained money and other valuables. They did not, of + course, hesitate to take what ready cash and jewelry the passengers might + happen to have upon their persons, and frequently their hauls amounted to + large sums. + </p> + <p> + When the coaches began to travel over Uncle Dick's toll-road, his house + was made a station, and he had many stage stories. He said:— + </p> + <p> + "Tavern-keepers in those days couldn't choose their guests, and we + entertained them just as they came along. The knights of the road would + come by now and then, order a meal, eat it hurriedly, pay for it, and move + on to where they had arranged to hold up a stage that night. Sometimes + they did not wait for it to get dark, but halted the stage, went through + the treasure box in broad daylight, and then ordered the driver to move on + in one direction, while they went off in another. + </p> + <p> + "One of the most daring and successful stage robberies that I remember was + perpetrated by two men, when the east-bound coach was coming up on the + south side of the Raton Mountains, one day about ten o'clock in the + forenoon. + </p> + <p> + "On the morning of the same day, a little after sunrise, two rather + genteel-looking fellows, mounted on fine horses, rode up to my house and + ordered breakfast. Being informed that breakfast would be ready in a few + minutes, they dismounted, hitched their horses near the door, and came + into the house. + </p> + <p> + "I knew then, just as well as I do now, they were robbers, but I had no + warrant for their arrest, and I should have hesitated about serving it if + I had, because they looked like very unpleasant men to transact that kind + of business with. + </p> + <p> + "Each of them had four pistols sticking in his belt and a repeating rifle + strapped on to his saddle. When they dismounted, they left their rifles + with the horses, but walked into the house and sat down at the table, + without laying aside the arsenal which they carried in their belts. + </p> + <p> + "They had little to say while eating, but were courteous in their + behaviour, and very polite to the waiters. When they had finished + breakfast, they paid their bills, and rode leisurely up the mountain. + </p> + <p> + "It did not occur to me that they would take chances on stopping the stage + in daylight, or I should have sent some one to meet the incoming coach, + which I knew would be along shortly, to warn the driver and passengers to + be on the lookout for robbers. + </p> + <p> + "It turned out, however, that a daylight robbery was just what they had in + mind, and they made a success of it. + </p> + <p> + "About halfway down the New Mexico side of the mountain, where the canyon + is very narrow, and was then heavily wooded on either side, the robbers + stopped and waited for the coach. It came lumbering along by and by, + neither the driver nor the passengers dreaming of a hold-up. + </p> + <p> + "The first intimation they had of such a thing was when they saw two men + step into the road, one on each side of the stage, each of them holding + two cocked revolvers, one of which was brought to bear on the passengers + and the other on the driver, who were politely but very positively told + that they must throw up their hands without any unnecessary delay, and the + stage came to a standstill. + </p> + <p> + "There were four passengers in the coach, all men, but their hands went up + at the same instant that the driver dropped his reins and struck an + attitude that suited the robbers. + </p> + <p> + "Then, while one of the men stood guard, the other stepped up to the stage + and ordered the treasure box thrown off. This demand was complied with, + and the box was broken and rifled of its contents, which fortunately were + not of very great value. + </p> + <p> + "The passengers were compelled to hand out their watches and other + jewelry, as well as what money they had in their pockets, and then the + driver was directed to move up the road. In a minute after this the + robbers had disappeared with their booty, and that was the last seen of + them by that particular coach-load of passengers. + </p> + <p> + "The men who planned and executed that robbery were two cool, + level-headed, and daring scoundrels, known as 'Chuckle-luck' and 'Magpie.' + They were killed soon after this occurrence, by a member of their own + band, whose name was Seward. A reward of a thousand dollars had been + offered for their capture, an this tempted Seward to kill them, one night + when they were asleep in camp. + </p> + <p> + "He then secured a wagon, into which he loaded the dead robbers, and + hauled them to Cimarron City, where he turned them over to the authorities + and received his reward." + </p> + <p> + Among the Arapahoes Wooton was called "Cut Hand," from the fact that he + had lost two fingers on his left hand by an accident in his childhood. The + tribe had the utmost veneration for the old trapper, and he was perfectly + safe at any time in their villages or camps; it had been the request of a + dying chief, who was once greatly favoured by Wooton, that his warriors + should never injure him although the nation might be at war with all the + rest of the whites in the world. + </p> + <p> + Uncle Dick died a few seasons ago, at the age of nearly ninety. He was + blind for some time, but a surgical operation partly restored his sight, + which made the old man happy, because he could look again upon the + beautiful scenery surrounding his mountain home, really the grandest in + the entire Raton Range. The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad had + one of its freight locomotives named "Uncle Dick," in honour of the + veteran mountaineer, past whose house it hauled the heavy-laden trains up + the steep grade crossing into the valley beyond. At the time of its + baptism, now fifteen or sixteen years ago, it was the largest freight + engine in the world. + </p> + <p> + Old Bill Williams was another character of the early days of the Trail, + and was called so when Carson, Uncle Dick Wooton, and Maxwell were + comparatively young in the mountains. He was, at the time of their advent + in the remote West, one of the best known men there, and had been famous + for years as a hunter and trapper. Williams was better acquainted with + every pass in the Rockies than any other man of his time, and only + surpassed by Jim Bridger later. He was with General Fremont on his + exploring expedition across the continent; but the statement of the old + trappers, and that of General Fremont, in relation to his services then, + differ widely. Fremont admits Williams' knowledge of the country over + which he had wandered to have been very extensive, but when put to the + test on the expedition, he came very near sacrificing the lives of all. + This was probably owing to Williams' failing intellect, for when he joined + the great explorer he was past the meridian of life. Now the old + mountaineers contend that if Fremont had profited by the old man's advice, + he would never have run into the deathtrap which cost him three men, and + in which he lost all his valuable papers, his instruments, and the animals + which he and his party were riding. The expedition had followed the + Arkansas River to its source, and the general had selected a route which + he desired to pursue in crossing the mountains. It was winter, and + Williams explained to him that it was perfectly impracticable to get over + at that season. The general, however, ignoring the statement, listened to + another of his party, a man who had no such experience but said that he + could pilot the expedition. Before they had fairly started, they were + caught in one of the most terrible snowstorms the region had ever + witnessed, in which all their horses and mules were literally frozen to + death. Then, when it was too late, they turned back, abandoning their + instruments, and able only to carry along a very limited stock of food. + The storm continued to rage, so that even Williams failed to prevent them + from getting lost, and they wandered about aimlessly for many days before + they luckily arrived at Taos, suffering seriously from exhaustion and + hunger. Three of the men were frozen to death on the return trip, and the + remaining fifteen were little better than dead when Uncle Dick Wooton + happened to run across them and piloted them into the village. It was + immediately after this disaster that the three most noted men in the + mountains—Carson, Maxwell, and Dick Owens—became the guides of + the pathfinder, with whom he had no trouble, and to whom he owed more of + his success than history has given them credit for. + </p> + <p> + At one period of his eventful career, while he lived in Missouri, before + he wandered to the mountains, Old Bill Williams was a Methodist preacher; + of which fact he boasted frequently while he trapped and hunted with other + pioneers. Whenever he related that portion of his early life, he declared + that he "was so well known in his circuit, that the chickens recognized + him as he came riding by the scattered farmhouses, and the old roosters + would crow 'Here comes Parson Williams! One of us must be made ready for + dinner.'" + </p> + <p> + Upon leaving the States, he travelled very extensively among the various + tribes of Indians who roamed over the great plains and in the mountains. + When sojourning with a certain band, he would invariably adopt their + manners and customs. Whenever he grew tired of that nation, he would seek + another and live as they lived. He had been so long among the savages that + he looked and talked like one, and had imbibed many of their strange + notions and curious superstitions. + </p> + <p> + To the missionaries he was very useful. He possessed the faculty of easily + acquiring languages that other white men failed to learn, and could + readily translate the Bible into several Indian dialects. His own conduct, + however, was in strange contrast with the precepts of the Holy Book with + which he was so familiar. + </p> + <p> + To the native Mexicans he was a holy terror and an unsolvable riddle. They + thought him possessed of an evil spirit. He at one time took up his + residence among them and commenced to trade. Shortly after he had + established himself and gathered in a stock of goods, he became involved + in a dispute with some of his customers in relation to his prices. Upon + this he apparently took an intense dislike to the people whom he had begun + to traffic with, and in his disgust tossed his whole mass of goods into + the street, and, taking up his rifle, left at once for the mountains. + </p> + <p> + Among the many wild ideas he had imbibed from his long association with + the Indians, was faith in their belief in the transmigration of souls. He + used so to worry his brain for hours cogitating upon this intricate + problem concerning a future state, that he actually pretended to know + exactly the animal whose place he was destined to fill in the world after + he had shaken off this mortal human coil. + </p> + <p> + Uncle Dick Wooton told how once, when he, Old Bill Williams, and many + other trappers, were lying around the camp-fire one night, the strange + fellow, in a preaching style of delivery, related to them all how he was + to be changed into a buck elk and intended to make his pasture in the very + region where they then were. He described certain peculiarities which + would distinguish him from the common run of elk, and was very careful to + caution all those present never to shoot such an animal, should they ever + run across him. + </p> + <p> + Williams was regarded as a warm-hearted, brave, and generous man. He was + at last killed by the Indians, while trading with them, but has left his + name to many mountain peaks, rivers, and passes discovered by him. + </p> + <p> + Tom Tobin, one of the last of the famous trappers, hunters, and Indian + fighters to cross the dark river, flourished in the early days, when the + Rocky Mountains were a veritable terra incognita to nearly all excepting + the hardy employees of the several fur companies and the limited number of + United States troops stationed in their remote wilds. + </p> + <p> + Tom was an Irishman, quick-tempered, and a dead shot with either rifle, + revolver, or the formidable bowie-knife. He would fight at the drop of the + hat, but no man ever went away from his cabin hungry, if he had a crust to + divide; or penniless, if there was anything remaining in his purse. + </p> + <p> + He, like Carson, was rather under the average stature, red-faced, and + lacking much of being an Adonis, but whole-souled, and as quick in his + movements as an antelope. + </p> + <p> + Tobin played an important rôle in avenging the death of the Americans + killed in the Taos massacre, at the storming of the Indian pueblo, but his + greatest achievement was the ending of the noted bandit Espinosa's life, + who, at the height of his career of blood, was the terror of the whole + mountain region. + </p> + <p> + At the time of the acquisition of New Mexico by the United States, + Espinosa, who was a Mexican, owning vast herds of cattle and sheep, + resided upon his ancestral hacienda in a sort of barbaric luxury, with a + host of semi-serfs, known as Peons, to do his bidding, as did the other + "Muy Ricos," the "Dons," so called, of his class of natives. These + self-styled aristocrats of the wild country all boasted of their Castilian + blue blood, claiming descent from the nobles of Cortez' army, but the fact + is, however, with rare exceptions, that their male ancestors, the rank and + file of that army, intermarried with the Aztec women, and they were really + only a mixture of Indian and Spanish. + </p> + <p> + It so happened that Espinosa met an adventurous American, who, with + hundreds of others, had been attached to the "Army of Occupation" in the + Mexican War, or had emigrated from the States to seek their fortunes in + the newly acquired and much over-rated territory. + </p> + <p> + The Mexican Don and the American became fast friends, the latter making + his home with his newly found acquaintance at the beautiful ranch in the + mountains, where they played the rôle of a modern Damon and Pythias. + </p> + <p> + Now with Don Espinosa lived his sister, a dark-eyed, bewitchingly + beautiful girl about seventeen years old, with whom the susceptible + American fell deeply in love, and his affection was reciprocated by the + maiden, with a fervour of which only the women of the race from which she + sprang are capable. + </p> + <p> + The fascinating American had brought with him from his home in one of the + New England States a large amount of money, for his parents were rich, and + spared no indulgence to their only son. He very soon unwisely made + Espinosa his confidant, and told him of the wealth he possessed. + </p> + <p> + One night after the American had retired to his chamber, adjoining that of + his host, he was surprised, shortly after he had gone to bed, by + discovering a man standing over him, whose hand had already grasped the + buckskin bag under his pillow which contained a considerable portion of + his gold and silver. He sprang from his couch and fired his pistol at + random in the darkness at the would-be robber. + </p> + <p> + Espinosa, for it was he, was wounded slightly, and, being either enraged + or frightened, he stabbed with his keen-pointed stiletto, which all + Mexicans then carried, the young man whom he had invited to become his + guest, and the blade entered the American's heart, killing him instantly. + </p> + <p> + The report of the pistol-shot awakened the other members of the household, + who came rushing into the room just as the victim was breathing his last. + Among them was the sister of the murderer, who, throwing herself on the + body of her dead lover, poured forth the most bitter curses upon her + brother. + </p> + <p> + Espinosa, realizing the terrible position in which he had placed himself, + then and there determined to become an outlaw, as he could frame no excuse + for his wicked deed. He therefore hid himself at once in the mountains, + carrying with him, of course, the sack containing the murdered American's + money. + </p> + <p> + Some time necessarily passed before he could get together a sufficient + number of cut-throats and renegades from justice to enable him wholly to + defy the authorities; but at last he succeeded in rallying a strong force + to his standard of blood, and became the terror of the whole region, + equalling in boldness and audacity the terrible Joaquin, of California + notoriety in after years. + </p> + <p> + His headquarters were in the almost impregnable fastnesses of the Sangre + de Cristo Mountains, from which he made his invariably successful raids + into the rich valleys below. There was nothing too bloody for him to + shrink from; he robbed indiscriminately the overland coaches to Santa Fe, + the freight caravans of the traders and government, the ranches of the + Mexicans, or stole from the poorer classes, without any compunction. He + ran off horses, cattle, sheep—in fact, anything that he could + utilize. If murder was necessary to the completion of his work, he never + for a moment hesitated. Kidnapping, too, was a favourite pastime; but he + rarely carried away to his rendezvous any other than the most beautiful of + the New Mexican young girls, whom he held in his mountain den until they + were ransomed, or subjected to a fate more terrible. + </p> + <p> + In 1864 the bandit, after nearly ten years of unparalleled outlawry, was + killed by Tobin. Tom had been on his trail for some time, and at last + tracked him to a temporary camp in the foot-hills, which he accidentally + discovered in a grove of cottonwoods, by the smoke of the little camp-fire + as it curled in light wreaths above the trees. + </p> + <p> + Tobin knew that at the time there was but one of Espinosa's followers with + him, as he had watched them both for some days, waiting for an opportunity + to get the drop on them. To capture the pair of outlaws alive never + entered his thoughts; he was as cautious as brave, and to get them dead + was much safer and easier; so he crept up to the grove on his belly, + Indian fashion, and lying behind the cover of a friendly log, waited until + the noted desperado stood up, when he pulled the trigger of his + never-erring rifle, and Espinosa fell dead. A second shot quickly disposed + of his companion, and the old trapper's mission was accomplished. + </p> + <p> + To be able to claim the reward offered by the authorities, Tom had to + prove, beyond the possibility of doubt, that those whom he had killed were + the dreaded bandit and one of his gang. He thought it best to cut off + their heads, which he deliberately did, and packing them on his mule in a + gunny-sack, he brought them into old Fort Massachusetts, afterward Fort + Garland, where they were speedily recognized; but whether Tom ever + received the reward, I have my doubts, as he never claimed that he did. + Tobin died only a short time ago, gray, grizzled, and venerable, his + memory respected by all who had ever met him. + </p> + <p> + James Hobbs, among all the men of whom I have presented a hurried sketch, + had perhaps a more varied experience than any of his colleagues. During + his long life on the frontier, he was in turn a prisoner among the + savages, and held for years by them; an excellent soldier in the war with + Mexico; an efficient officer in the revolt against Maximilian, when the + attempt of Napoleon to establish an empire on this continent, with that + unfortunate prince at its head, was defeated; an Indian fighter; a miner; + a trapper; a trader, and a hunter. + </p> + <p> + Hobbs was born in the Shawnee nation, on the Big Blue, about twenty-three + miles from Independence, Missouri. His early childhood was entrusted to + one of his father's slaves. Reared on the eastern limit of the border, he + very soon became familiar with the use of the rifle and shot-gun; in fact, + he was the principal provider of all the meat which the family consumed. + </p> + <p> + In 1835, when only sixteen, he joined a fur-trading expedition under + Charles Bent, destined for the fort on the Arkansas River built by him and + his brothers. + </p> + <p> + They arrived at the crossing of the Santa Fe Trail over Pawnee Fork + without special adventure, but there they had the usual tussle with the + savages, and Hobbs killed his first Indian. Two of the traders were + pierced with arrows, but not seriously hurt, and the Pawnees—the + tribe which had attacked the outfit—were driven away discomfited, + not having been successful in stampeding a single animal. + </p> + <p> + When the party reached the Caches, on the Upper Arkansas, a smoke rising + on the distant horizon, beyond the sand hills south of the river, made + them proceed cautiously; for to the old plainsmen, that far-off wreath + indicated either the presence of the savages, or a signal to others at a + greater distance of the approach of the trappers. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, nothing having occurred to delay the march, buffalo + began to appear, and Hobbs killed three of them. A cow, which he had + wounded, ran across the Trail in front of the train, and Hobbs dashed + after her, wounding her with his pistol, and then she started to swim the + river. Hobbs, mad at the jeers which greeted him from the men at his + missing the animal, started for the last wagon, in which was his rifle, + determined to kill the brute that had enraged him. As he was riding along + rapidly, Bent cried out to him,— + </p> + <p> + "Don't try to follow that cow; she is going straight for that smoke, and + it means Injuns, and no good in 'em either." + </p> + <p> + "But I'll get her," answered Hobbs, and he called to his closest comrade, + John Baptiste, a boy of about his own age, to go and get his pack-mule and + come along. "All right," responded John; and together the two + inexperienced youngsters crossed the river against the protests of the + veteran leader of the party. + </p> + <p> + After a chase of about three miles, the boys came up with the cow, but she + turned and showed fight. Finally Hobbs, by riding around her, got in a + good shot, which killed her. Jumping off their animals, both boys busied + themselves in cutting out the choice pieces for their supper, packed them + on the mule, and started back for the train. But it had suddenly become + very dark, and they were in doubt as to the direction of the Trail. + </p> + <p> + Soon night came on so rapidly that neither could they see their own tracks + by which they had come, nor the thin fringe of cottonwoods that lined the + bank of the stream. Then they disagreed as to which was the right way. + John succeeded in persuading Hobbs that he was correct, and the latter + gave in, very much against his own belief on the subject. + </p> + <p> + They travelled all night, and when morning came, were bewilderingly lost. + Then Hobbs resolved to retrace the tracks by which, now that the sun was + up, he saw that they had been going south, right away from the Arkansas. + Suddenly an immense herd of buffalo, containing at least two thousand, + dashed by the boys, filling the air with the dust raised by their + clattering hoofs, and right behind them rode a hundred Indians, shooting + at the stampeded animals with their arrows. + </p> + <p> + "Get into that ravine!" shouted Hobbs to his companion. "Throw away that + meat, and run for your life!" + </p> + <p> + It was too late; just as they arrived at the brink of the hollow, they + looked back, and close behind them were a dozen Comanches. + </p> + <p> + The savages rode up, and one of the party said in very good English, "How + d' do?" + </p> + <p> + "How d' do?" Hobbs replied, thinking it would be better to be as polite as + the Indian, though the state of the latter's health just then was a matter + of small concern. + </p> + <p> + "Texas?" inquired the Indian. The Comanches had good reasons to hate the + citizens of that country, and it was a lucky thing for Hobbs that he had + heard of their prejudice from the trappers, and possessed presence of mind + to remember it. He replied promptly: "No, friendly; going to establish a + trading-post for the Comanches." + </p> + <p> + "Friendly? Better go with us, though. Got any tobacco?" + </p> + <p> + Hobbs had some of the desired article, and he was not long in handing it + over to his newly found friend. + </p> + <p> + Both of the boys were escorted to the temporary camp of the savages, but + the original number of their captors was increased to over a thousand + before they arrived there. They were supplied with some dried + buffalo-meat, and then taken to the lodge of Old Wolf, the head chief of + the tribe. + </p> + <p> + A council was called immediately to consider what disposition should be + made of them, but nothing was decided upon, and the assembly of warriors + adjourned until morning. Hobbs told me that it was because Old Wolf had + imbibed too much brandy, a bottle of which Baptiste had brought with him + from the train, and which the thirsty warrior saw suspended from his + saddle-bow as they rode up to the chief's lodge; the aged rascal got + beastly drunk. + </p> + <p> + About noon of the next day, after the dispersion of the council, the boys + were informed that if they were not Texans, would behave themselves, and + not attempt to run away, they might stay with the Indians, who would not + kill them; but a string of dried scalps was pointed out, hanging on a + lodge pole, of some Mexicans whom they had captured and put to herding + their ponies, and who had tried to get away. They succeeded in making a + few miles; the Indians chased them, after deciding in council, that, if + caught, only their scalps were to be brought back. The moral of this was + that the same fate awaited the boys if they followed the example of the + foolish Mexicans. + </p> + <p> + Hobbs had excellent sense and judgment, and he knew that it would be the + height of folly for him and Baptiste, mere boys, to try and reach either + Bent's Fort or the Missouri River, not having the slightest knowledge of + where they were situated. + </p> + <p> + Hobbs grew to be a great favourite with the Comanches; was given the + daughter of Old Wolf in marriage, became a great chief, fought many hard + battles with his savage companions, and at last, four years after, was + redeemed by Colonel Bent, who paid Old Wolf a small ransom for him at the + Fort, where the Indians had come to trade. Baptiste, whom the Indians + never took a great fancy to, because he did not develop into a great + warrior, was also ransomed by Bent, his price being only an antiquated + mule. + </p> + <p> + At Bent's Fort Hobbs went out trapping under the leadership of Kit Carson, + and they became lifelong friends. In a short time Hobbs earned the + reputation of being an excellent mountaineer, trapper, and as an Indian + fighter he was second to none, his education among the Comanches having + trained him in all the strategy of the savages. + </p> + <p> + After going through the Mexican War with an excellent record, Hobbs + wandered about the country, now engaged in mining in old Mexico, then + fighting the Apaches under the orders of the governor of Chihuahua, and at + the end of the campaign going back to the Pacific coast, where he entered + into new pursuits. Sometimes he was rich, then as poor as one can imagine. + He returned to old Mexico in time to become an active partisan in the + revolt which overthrew the short-lived dynasty of Maximilian, and was + present at the execution of that unfortunate prince. Finally he retired to + the home of his childhood in the States, where he died a few months ago, + full of years and honours. + </p> + <p> + William F. Cody, "Buffalo Bill," is one of the famous plainsmen, of later + days, however, than Carson, Bridger, John Smith, Maxwell, and others whom + I have mentioned. The mantle of Kit Carson, perhaps, fits more perfectly + the shoulders of Cody than those of any other of the great frontiersman's + successors, and he has had some experiences that surpassed anything which + fell to their lot. + </p> + <p> + He was born in Iowa, in 1845, and when barely seven years old his father + emigrated to Kansas, then far remote from civilization. + </p> + <p> + Thirty-six years ago, he was employed as guide and scout in an expedition + against the Kiowas and Comanches, and his line of duty took him along the + Santa Fe Trail all one summer when not out as a scout, carrying despatches + between Fort Lyon and Fort Larned, the most important military posts on + the great highway as well as to far-off Fort Leavenworth on the Missouri + River, the headquarters of the department. Fort Larned was the general + rendezvous of all the scouts on the Kansas and Colorado plains, the chief + of whom was a veteran interpreter and guide, named Dick Curtis. + </p> + <p> + When Cody first reported there for his responsible duty, a large camp of + the Kiowas and Comanches was established within sight of the fort, whose + warriors had not as yet put on their war-paint, but were evidently + restless and discontented under the restraint of their chiefs. Soon those + leading men, Satanta, Lone Wolf, Satank, and others of lesser note, grew + rather impudent and haughty in their deportment, and they were watched + with much concern. The post was garrisoned by only two companies of + infantry and one of cavalry. + </p> + <p> + General Hazen, afterward chief of the signal service in Washington, was at + Fort Larned at the time, endeavouring to patch up a peace with the + savages, who seemed determined to break out. Cody was special scout to the + general, and one morning he was ordered to accompany him as far as Fort + Zarah, on the Arkansas, near the mouth of Walnut Creek, in what is now + Barton County, Kansas, the general intending to go on to Fort Harker, on + the Smoky Hill. In making these trips of inspection, with incidental + collateral duties, the general usually travelled in an ambulance, but on + this journey he rode in a six-mule army-wagon, escorted by a detachment of + a score of infantry. It was a warm August day, and an early start was + made, which enabled them to reach Fort Zarah, over thirty miles distant, + by noon. After dinner, the general proposed to go on to Fort Harker, + forty-one miles away, without any escort, leaving orders for Cody to + return to Fort Larned the next day, with the soldiers. But Cody, ever + impatient of delay when there was work to do, notified the sergeant in + charge of the men that he was going back that very afternoon. I tell the + story of his trip as he has often told it to me, and as he has written it + in his autobiography. + </p> + <p> + "I accordingly saddled up my mule and set out for Fort Larned. I proceeded + on uninterruptedly until I got about halfway between the two posts, when, + at Pawnee Rock, I was suddenly jumped by about forty Indians, who came + dashing up to me, extending their hands and saying, 'How! How!' They were + some of the Indians who had been hanging around Fort Larned in the + morning. I saw they had on their war-paint, and were evidently now out on + the war-path. + </p> + <p> + "My first impulse was to shake hands with them, as they seemed so desirous + of it. I accordingly reached out my hand to one of them, who grasped it + with a tight grip, and jerked me violently forward; then pulled my mule by + the bridle, and in a moment I was completely surrounded. Before I could do + anything at all, they had seized my revolvers from the holsters, and I + received a blow on the head from a tomahawk which nearly rendered me + senseless. My gun, which was lying across the saddle, was snatched from + its place, and finally the Indian who had hold of the bridle started off + toward the Arkansas River, leading the mule, which was being lashed by the + other Indians, who were following. The savages were all singing, yelling, + and whooping, as only Indians can do, when they are having their little + game all their own way. While looking toward the river, I saw on the + opposite side an immense village moving along the bank, and then I became + convinced that the Indians had left the post and were now starting out on + the war-path. My captors crossed the stream with me, and as we waded + through the shallow water they continued to lash the mule and myself. + Finally they brought me before an important-looking body of Indians, who + proved to be the chiefs and principal warriors. I soon recognized old + Satanta among them, as well as others whom I knew, and supposed it was all + over with me. + </p> + <p> + "The Indians were jabbering away so rapidly among themselves that I could + not understand what they were saying. Satanta at last asked me where I had + been. As good luck would have it, a happy thought struck me. I told him I + had been after a herd of cattle, or 'whoa-haws,' as they called them. It + so happened that the Indians had been out of meat for several weeks, as + the large herd of cattle which had been promised them had not yet arrived, + although they expected them. + </p> + <p> + "The moment I mentioned that I had been searching for 'whoa-haws,' old + Satanta began questioning me in a very eager manner. He asked me where the + cattle were, and I replied that they were back a few miles, and that I had + been sent by General Hazen to inform him that the cattle were coming, and + that they were intended for his people. This seemed to please the old + rascal, who also wanted to know if there were any soldiers with the herd, + and my reply was that there were. Thereupon the chiefs held a + consultation, and presently Satanta asked me if General Hazen had really + said that they should have the cattle. I replied in the affirmative, and + added that I had been directed to bring the cattle to them. I followed + this up with a very dignified inquiry, asking why his young men had + treated me so. The old wretch intimated that it was only a 'freak of the + boys'; that the young men wanted to see if I was brave; in fact, they had + only meant to test me, and the whole thing was a joke. + </p> + <p> + "The veteran liar was now beating me at my own game of lying, but I was + very glad, as it was in my favour. I did not let him suspect that I + doubted his veracity, but I remarked that it was a rough way to treat + friends. He immediately ordered his young men to give back my arms, and + scolded them for what they had done. Of course, the sly old dog was now + playing it very fine, as he was anxious to get possession of the cattle, + with which he believed there was a 'heap' of soldiers coming. He had + concluded it was not best to fight the soldiers if he could get the cattle + peaceably. + </p> + <p> + "Another council was held by the chiefs, and in a few minutes old Satanta + came and asked me if I would go to the river and bring the cattle down to + the opposite side, so that they could get them. I replied, 'Of course; + that's my instruction from General Hazen.' + </p> + <p> + "Satanta said I must not feel angry at his young men, for they had only + been acting in fun. He then inquired if I wished any of his men to + accompany me to the cattle herd. I replied that it would be better for me + to go alone, and then the soldiers could keep right on to Fort Larned, + while I could drive the herd down on the bottom. Then wheeling my mule + around, I was soon recrossing the river, leaving old Satanta in the firm + belief that I had told him a straight story, and that I was going for the + cattle which existed only in my imagination. + </p> + <p> + "I hardly knew what to do, but thought that if I could get the river + between the Indians and myself, I would have a good three-quarters of a + mile the start of them, and could then make a run for Fort Larned, as my + mule was a good one. + </p> + <p> + "Thus far my cattle story had panned out all right; but just as I reached + the opposite bank of the river, I looked behind me and saw that ten or + fifteen Indians, who had begun to suspect something crooked, were + following me. The moment that my mule secured a good foothold on the bank, + I urged him into a gentle lope toward the place where, according to my + statement, the cattle were to be brought. Upon reaching a little ridge and + riding down the other side out of view, I turned my mule and headed him + westward for Fort Larned. I let him out for all that he was worth, and + when I came out on a little rise of ground, I looked back and saw the + Indian village in plain sight. My pursuers were now on the ridge which I + had passed over, and were looking for me in every direction. + </p> + <p> + "Presently they spied me, and seeing that I was running away, they struck + out in swift pursuit, and in a few minutes it became painfully evident + they were gaining on me. They kept up the chase as far as Ash Creek, six + miles from Fort Larned. I still led them half a mile, as their horses had + not gained much during the last half of the race. My mule seemed to have + gotten his second wind, and as I was on the old road, I played the spurs + and whip on him without much cessation; the Indians likewise urged their + steeds to the utmost. + </p> + <p> + "Finally, upon reaching the dividing ridge between Ash Creek and Pawnee + Fork, I saw Fort Larned only four miles away. It was now sundown, and I + heard the evening gun. The troops of the small garrison little dreamed + there was a man flying for his life and trying to reach the post. The + Indians were once more gaining on me, and when I crossed the Pawnee Fork + two miles from the post, two or three of them were only a quarter of a + mile behind me. Just as I gained the opposite bank of the stream, I was + overjoyed to see some soldiers in a government wagon only a short distance + off. I yelled at the top of my voice, and riding up to them, told them + that the Indians were after me. + </p> + <p> + "'Denver Jim,' a well-known scout, asked me how many there were, and upon + my informing him that there were about a dozen, he said: 'Let's drive the + wagon into the trees, and we'll lay for 'em.' The team was hurriedly + driven among the trees and low box-elder bushes, and there secreted. + </p> + <p> + "We did not have to wait long for the Indians, who came dashing up, + lashing their ponies, which were panting and blowing. We let two of them + pass by, but we opened a lively fire on the next three or four, killing + two of them at the first crack. The others following discovered that they + had run into an ambush, and whirling off into the brush, they turned and + ran back in the direction whence they had come. The two who had passed by + heard the firing and made their escape. We scalped the two that we had + killed, and appropriated their arms and equipments; then, catching their + ponies, we made our way into the Post." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. MAXWELL'S RANCH. + </h2> + <p> + One of the most interesting and picturesque regions of all New Mexico is + the immense tract of nearly two million acres known as Maxwell's Ranch, + through which the Old Trail ran, and the title to which was some years + since determined by the Supreme Court of the United States in favour of an + alien company.<a href="#linknote-59" name="linknoteref-59" + id="linknoteref-59"><small>59</small></a> Dead long ago, Maxwell belonged + to a generation and a class almost completely extinct, and the like of + which will, in all probability, never be seen again; for there is no more + frontier to develop them. + </p> + <p> + Several years prior to the acquisition of the territory by the United + States, the immense tract comprised in the geographical limits of the + ranch was granted to Carlos Beaubien and Guadalupe Miranda, both citizens + of the province of New Mexico, and agents of the American Fur Company. + Attached to the company as an employer, a trapper, and hunter, was Lucien + B. Maxwell, an Illinoisan by birth, who married a daughter of Beaubien. + After the death of the latter Maxwell purchased all the interest of the + joint proprietor, Miranda, and that of the heirs of Beaubien, thus at once + becoming the largest landowner in the United States. + </p> + <p> + At the zenith of his influence and wealth, during the War of the + Rebellion, when New Mexico was isolated and almost independent of care or + thought by the government at Washington, he lived in a sort of barbaric + splendour, akin to that of the nobles of England at the time of the Norman + conquest. + </p> + <p> + The thousands of arable acres comprised in the many fertile valleys of his + immense estate were farmed in a primitive, feudal sort of way, by native + Mexicans principally, under the system of peonage then existing in the + Territory. He employed about five hundred men, and they were as much his + thralls as were Gurth and Wamba of Cedric of Rotherwood, only they wore no + engraved collars around their necks bearing their names and that of their + master. Maxwell was not a hard governor, and his people really loved him, + as he was ever their friend and adviser. + </p> + <p> + His house was a palace when compared with the prevailing style of + architecture in that country, and cost an immense sum of money. It was + large and roomy, purely American in its construction, but the manner of + conducting it was strictly Mexican, varying between the customs of the + higher and lower classes of that curious people. + </p> + <p> + Some of its apartments were elaborately furnished, others devoid of + everything except a table for card-playing and a game's complement of + chairs. The principal room, an extended rectangular affair, which might + properly have been termed the Baronial Hall, was almost bare except for a + few chairs, a couple of tables, and an antiquated bureau. There Maxwell + received his friends, transacted business with his vassals, and held high + carnival at times. + </p> + <p> + I have slept on its hardwood floor, rolled up in my blanket, with the + mighty men of the Ute nation lying heads and points all around me, as + close as they could possibly crowd, after a day's fatiguing hunt in the + mountains. I have sat there in the long winter evenings, when the great + room was lighted only by the cheerful blaze of the crackling logs roaring + up the huge throats of its two fireplaces built diagonally across opposite + corners, watching Maxwell, Kit Carson, and half a dozen chiefs silently + interchange ideas in the wonderful sign language, until the glimmer of + Aurora announced the advent of another day. But not a sound had been + uttered during the protracted hours, save an occasional grunt of + satisfaction on the part of the Indians, or when we white men exchanged a + sentence. + </p> + <p> + Frequently Maxwell and Carson would play the game of seven-up for hours at + a time, seated at one of the tables. Kit was usually the victor, for he + was the greatest expert in that old and popular pastime I have ever met. + Maxwell was an inveterate gambler, but not by any means in a professional + sense; he indulged in the hazard of the cards simply for the amusement it + afforded him in his rough life of ease, and he could very well afford the + losses which the pleasure sometimes entailed. His special penchant, + however, was betting on a horse race, and his own stud comprised some of + the fleetest animals in the Territory. Had he lived in England he might + have ruled the turf, but many jobs were put up on him by unscrupulous + jockeys, by which he was outrageously defrauded of immense sums. + </p> + <p> + He was fond of cards, as I have said, both of the purely American game of + poker, and also of old sledge, but rarely played except with personal + friends, and never without stakes. He always exacted the last cent he had + won, though the next morning, perhaps, he would present or loan his + unsuccessful opponent of the night before five hundred or a thousand + dollars, if he needed it; an immensely greater sum, in all probability, + than had been gained in the game. + </p> + <p> + The kitchen and dining-rooms of his princely establishment were detached + from the main residence. There was one of the latter for the male portion + of his retinue and guests of that sex, and another for the female, as, in + accordance with the severe, and to us strange, Mexican etiquette, men + rarely saw a woman about the premises, though there were many. Only the + quick rustle of a skirt, or a hurried view of a reboso, as its wearer + flashed for an instant before some window or half-open door, told of their + presence. + </p> + <p> + The greater portion of his table-service was solid silver, and at his + hospitable board there were rarely any vacant chairs. Covers were laid + daily for about thirty persons; for he had always many guests, invited or + forced upon him in consequence of his proverbial munificence, or by the + peculiar location of his manor-house which stood upon a magnificently + shaded plateau at the foot of mighty mountains, a short distance from a + ford on the Old Trail. As there were no bridges over the uncertain streams + of the great overland route in those days, the ponderous Concord coaches, + with their ever-full burden of passengers, were frequently water-bound, + and Maxwell's the only asylum from the storm and flood; consequently he + entertained many. + </p> + <p> + At all times, and in all seasons, the group of buildings, houses, stables, + mill, store, and their surrounding grounds, were a constant resort and + loafing-place of Indians. From the superannuated chiefs, who revelled + lazily during the sunny hours in the shady peacefulness of the broad + porches; the young men of the tribe, who gazed with covetous eyes upon the + sleek-skinned, blooded colts sporting in the spacious corrals; the squaws, + fascinated by the gaudy calicoes, bright ribbons, and glittering strings + of beads on the counters or shelves of the large store, to the half-naked, + chubby little pappooses around the kitchen doors, waiting with expectant + mouths for some delicious morsel of refuse to be thrown to them—all + assumed, in bearing and manner, a vested right of proprietorship in their + agreeable environment. + </p> + <p> + To this motley group, always under his feet, as it were, Maxwell was ever + passively gracious, although they were battening in idleness on his + prodigal bounty from year to year. + </p> + <p> + His retinue of servants, necessarily large, was made up of a heterogeneous + mixture of Indians, Mexicans, and half-breeds. The kitchens were presided + over by dusky maidens under the tutelage of experienced old crones, and + its precincts were sacred to them; but the dining-rooms were forbidden to + women during the hours of meals, which were served by boys. + </p> + <p> + Maxwell was rarely, as far as my observation extended, without a large + amount of money in his possession. He had no safe, however, his only place + of temporary deposit for the accumulated cash being the bottom drawer of + the old bureau in the large room to which I have referred, which was the + most antiquated concern of common pine imaginable. There were only two + other drawers in this old-fashioned piece of furniture, and neither of + them possessed a lock. The third, or lower, the one that contained the + money, did, but it was absolutely worthless, being one of the cheapest + pattern and affording not the slightest security; besides, the drawers + above it could be pulled out, exposing the treasure immediately beneath to + the cupidity of any one. + </p> + <p> + I have frequently seen as much as thirty thousand dollars—gold, + silver, greenbacks, and government checks—at one time in that novel + depository. Occasionally these large sums remained there for several days, + yet there was never any extra precaution taken to prevent its abstraction; + doors were always open and the room free of access to every one, as usual. + </p> + <p> + I once suggested to Maxwell the propriety of purchasing a safe for the + better security of his money, but he only smiled, while a strange, + resolute look flashed from his dark eyes, as he said: "God help the man + who attempted to rob me and I knew him!" + </p> + <p> + The sources of his wealth were his cattle, sheep, and the products of his + area of cultivated acres—barley, oats, and corn principally—which + he disposed of to the quartermaster and commissary departments of the + army, in the large military district of New Mexico. His wool-clip must + have been enormous, too; but I doubt whether he could have told the number + of animals that furnished it or the aggregate of his vast herds. He had a + thousand horses, ten thousand cattle, and forty thousand sheep at the time + I knew him well, according to the best estimates of his Mexican relatives. + </p> + <p> + He also possessed a large and perfectly appointed gristmill, which was a + great source of revenue, for wheat was one of the staple crops of his many + farms. + </p> + <p> + Maxwell was fond of travelling all over the Territory, his equipages + comprising everything in the shape of a vehicle, through all their + varieties, from the most plainly constructed buckboard to the lumbering, + but comfortable and expensive, Concord coach, mounted on thorough braces + instead of springs, and drawn by four or six horses. He was perfectly + reckless in his driving, dashing through streams, over irrigating ditches, + stones, and stumps like a veritable Jehu, regardless of consequences, but, + as is usually the fortune of such precipitate horsemen, rarely coming to + grief. + </p> + <p> + The headquarters of the Ute agency were established at Maxwell's Ranch in + early days, and the government detailed a company of cavalry to camp + there, more, however, to impress the plains tribes who roamed along the + Old Trail east of the Raton Range, than for any effect on the Utes, whom + Maxwell could always control, and who regarded him as a father. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th of July, 1867, Maxwell, who owned an antiquated and rusty + six-pound field howitzer, suggested to the captain of the troop stationed + there the propriety of celebrating the day. So the old piece was dragged + from its place under a clump of elms, where it had been hidden in the + grass and weeds ever since the Mexican War probably, and brought near the + house. The captain and Maxwell acted the rôle of gunners, the former at + the muzzle, the latter at the breech; the discharge was premature, blowing + out the captain's eye and taking off his arm, while Maxwell escaped with a + shattered thumb. As soon as the accident occurred, a sergeant was + despatched to Fort Union on one of the fastest horses on the ranch, the + faithful animal falling dead the moment he stopped in front of the + surgeon's quarters, having made the journey of fifty-five miles in little + more than four hours. + </p> + <p> + The surgeon left the post immediately, arriving at Maxwell's late that + night, but in time to save the officer's life, after which he dressed + Maxwell's apparently inconsiderable wound. In a few days, however, the + thumb grew angry-looking; it would not yield to the doctor's careful + treatment, so he reluctantly decided that amputation was necessary. After + an operation was determined upon, I prevailed upon Maxwell to come to the + fort and remain with me, inviting Kit Carson at the same time, that he + might assist in catering to the amusement of my suffering guest. Maxwell + and Carson arrived at my quarters late in the day, after a tedious ride in + the big coach, and the surgeon, in order to allow a prolonged rest on + account of Maxwell's feverish condition, postponed the operation until the + following evening. + </p> + <p> + The next night, as soon as it grew dark—we waited for coolness, as + the days were excessively hot—the necessary preliminaries were + arranged, and when everything was ready the surgeon commenced. Maxwell + declined the anaesthetic prepared for him, and sitting in a common office + chair put out his hand, while Carson and myself stood on opposite sides, + each holding an ordinary kerosene lamp. In a few seconds the operation was + concluded, and after the silver-wire ligatures were twisted in their + places, I offered Maxwell, who had not as yet permitted a single sigh to + escape his lips, half a tumblerful of whiskey; but before I had fairly put + it to his mouth, he fell over, having fainted dead away, while great beads + of perspiration stood on his forehead, indicative of the pain he had + suffered, as the amputation of the thumb, the surgeon told us then, was as + bad as that of a leg. + </p> + <p> + He returned to his ranch as soon as the surgeon pronounced him well, and + Carson to his home in Taos. I saw the latter but once more at Maxwell's; + but he was en route to visit me at Fort Harker, in Kansas, when he was + taken ill at Fort Lyon, where he died. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A boy's will is the wind's will, + And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts. +</pre> + <p> + How true it now seems to me, as the recollections of my boyish days, when + I read of the exploits of Kit Carson, crowd upon my memory! I firmly + believed him to be at least ten feet tall, carrying a rifle so heavy that, + like Bruce's sword, it required two men to lift it. I imagined he drank + out of nothing smaller than a river, and picked the carcass of a whole + buffalo as easily as a lady does the wing of a quail. Ten years later I + made the acquaintance of the foremost frontiersman, and found him a + delicate, reticent, under-sized, wiry man, as perfectly the opposite of + the type my childish brain had created as it is possible to conceive. + </p> + <p> + At Fort Union our mail arrived every morning by coach over the Trail, + generally pulling up at the sutler's store, whose proprietor was + postmaster, about daylight. While Maxwell and Kit were my guests, I + sauntered down after breakfast one morning to get my mail, and while + waiting for the letters to be distributed, happened to glance at some + papers lying on the counter, among which I saw a new periodical—the + <i>Day's Doings</i>, I think it was—that had a full-page + illustration of a scene in a forest. In the foreground stood a gigantic + figure dressed in the traditional buckskin; on one arm rested an immense + rifle; his other arm was around the waist of the conventional female of + such sensational journals, while in front, lying prone upon the ground, + were half a dozen Indians, evidently slain by the singular hero in + defending the impossibly attired female. The legend related how all this + had been effected by the famous Kit Carson. I purchased the paper, + returned with it to my room, and after showing it to several officers who + had called upon Maxwell, I handed it to Kit. He wiped his spectacles, + studied the picture intently for a few seconds, turned round, and said: + "Gentlemen, that thar may be true, but I hain't got no recollection of + it." + </p> + <p> + I passed a delightful two weeks with Maxwell, late in the summer of 1867, + at the time that the excitement over the discovery of gold on his ranch + had just commenced, and adventurers were beginning to congregate in the + hills and gulches from everywhere. The discovery of the precious metal on + his estate was the first cause of his financial embarrassment. It was the + ruin also of many other prominent men in New Mexico, who expended their + entire fortune in the construction of an immense ditch, forty miles in + length—from the Little Canadian or Red River—to supply the + placer diggings in the Moreno valley with water, when the melted snow of + Old Baldy range had exhausted itself in the late summer. The scheme was a + stupendous failure; its ruins may be seen to-day in the deserted valleys, + a monument to man's engineering skill, but the wreck of his hopes. + </p> + <p> + For some years previous to the discovery of gold in the mountains and + gulches of Maxwell's Ranch, it was known that copper existed in the + region; several shafts had been sunk and tunnels driven in various places, + and gold had been found from time to time, but was kept a secret for many + months. Its presence was at last revealed to Maxwell by a party of his own + miners, who were boring into the heart of Old Baldy for a copper lead that + had cropped out and was then lost. + </p> + <p> + Of course, to keep the knowledge of the discovery of gold from the world + is an impossibility; such was the case in this instance, and soon + commenced that squatter immigration out of which, after the ranch was sold + and Maxwell died, grew that litigation which has resulted in favour of the + company who purchased from or through the first owners after Maxwell's + death. + </p> + <p> + He was a representative man of the border of the same class as his + compeers—"wild-civilized men," to borrow an expressive term from + John Burroughs—of strong local attachments, and overflowing with the + milk of human kindness. To such as he there was an unconquerable + infatuation in life on the remote plains and in the solitude of the + mountains. There was never anything of the desperado in their character, + while the adventurers who at times have made the far West infamous, since + the advent of the railroad, were bad men originally. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally such men turn up everywhere, and become a terror to the + community, but they are always wound up sooner or later; they die with + their boots on; Western graveyards are full of them. + </p> + <p> + Maxwell, under contract with the Interior Department, furnished live + beeves to the Ute nation, the issue of which was made weekly from his own + vast herds. The cattle, as wild as those from the Texas prairies, were + driven by his herders into an immense enclosed field, and there turned + loose to be slaughtered by the savages. + </p> + <p> + Once when at the ranch I told Maxwell I should like to have a horse to + witness the novel sight. He immediately ordered a Mexican groom to procure + one; but I did not see the peculiar smile that lighted up his face, as he + whispered something to the man which I did not catch. Presently the groom + returned leading a magnificent gray, which I mounted, Maxwell suggesting + that I should ride down to the large field and wait there until the herd + arrived. I entered the great corral, patting my horse on the neck now and + then, to make him familiar with my touch, and attempted to converse with + some of the chiefs, who were dressed in their best, painted as if for the + war-path, gaily bedecked with feathers and armed with rifles and gaudily + appointed bows and arrows; but I did not succeed very well in drawing them + from their normal reticence. The squaws, a hundred of them, were sitting + on the ground, their knives in hand ready for the labour which is the fate + of their sex in all savage tribes, while their lords' portion of the + impending business was to end with the more manly efforts of the chase. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly a great cloud of dust rose on the trail from the mountains, and + on came the maddened animals, fairly shaking the earth with their mighty + tread. As soon as the gate was closed behind them, and uttering a + characteristic yell that was blood-curdling in its ferocity, the Indians + charged upon the now doubly frightened herd, and commenced to discharge + their rifles, regardless of the presence of any one but themselves. My + horse became paralyzed for an instant and stood poised on his hind legs, + like the steed represented in that old lithographic print of Napoleon + crossing the Alps; then taking the bit in his teeth, he rushed aimlessly + into the midst of the flying herd, while the bullets from the guns of the + excited savages rained around my head. I had always boasted of my + equestrian accomplishments—I was never thrown but once in my life, + and that was years afterward—but in this instance it taxed all my + powers to keep my seat. In less than twenty minutes the last beef had + fallen; and the warriors, inflated with the pride of their achievement, + rode silently out of the field, leaving the squaws to cut up and carry + away the meat to their lodges, more than three miles distant, which they + soon accomplished, to the last quivering morsel. + </p> + <p> + As I rode leisurely back to the house, I saw Maxwell and Kit standing on + the broad porch, their sides actually shaking with laughter at my + discomfiture, they having been watching me from the very moment the herd + entered the corral. It appeared that the horse Maxwell ordered the groom + to bring me was a recent importation from St. Louis, had never before seen + an Indian, and was as unused to the prairies and mountains as a street-car + mule. Kit said that my mount reminded him of one that his antagonist in a + duel rode a great many years ago when he was young. If the animal had not + been such "a fourth-of-July" brute, his opponent would in all probability + have finished him, as he was a splendid shot; but Kit fortunately escaped, + the bullet merely grazing him under the ear, leaving a scar which he then + showed me. + </p> + <p> + One night Kit Carson, Maxwell, and I were up in the Raton Mountains above + the Old Trail, and having lingered too long, were caught above the clouds + against our will, darkness having overtaken us before we were ready to + descend into the valley. It was dangerous to undertake the trip over such + a precipitous and rocky trail, so we were compelled to make the best of + our situation. It was awfully cold, and as we had brought no blankets, we + dared not go to sleep for fear our fire might go out, and we should + freeze. We therefore determined to make a night of it by telling yarns, + smoking our pipes, and walking around at times. After sitting awhile, + Maxwell pointed toward the Spanish Peaks, whose snow-white tops cast a + diffused light in the heavens above them, and remarked that in the deep + canyon which separates them, he had had one of the "closest calls" of his + life, willingly complying when I asked him to tell us the story. + </p> + <p> + "It was in 1847. I came down from Taos with a party to go to the Cimarron + crossing of the Santa Fe Trail to pick up a large herd of horses for the + United States Quartermaster's Department. We succeeded in gathering about + a hundred and started back with them, letting them graze slowly along, as + we were in no hurry. When we arrived at the foot-hills north of Bent's + Fort, we came suddenly upon the trail of a large war-band of Utes, none of + whom we saw, but from subsequent developments the savages must have + discovered us days before we reached the mountains. I knew we were not + strong enough to cope with the whole Ute nation, and concluded the best + thing for us to do under the ticklish circumstances was to make a detour, + and put them off our trail. So we turned abruptly down the Arkansas, + intending to try and get to Taos in that direction, more than one hundred + and fifty miles around. It appeared afterward that the Indians had been + following us all the way. When we found this out, some of the men believed + they were another party, and not the same whose trail we came upon when we + turned down the river, but I always insisted they were. When we arrived + within a few days' drive of Taos, we were ambushed in one of the narrow + passes of the range, and had the bloodiest fight with the Utes on record. + There were thirteen of us, all told, and two little children whom we were + escorting to their friends at Taos, having received them at the Cimarron + crossing. + </p> + <p> + "While we were quietly taking our breakfast one morning, and getting ready + to pull out for the day's march, perfectly unsuspicious of the proximity + of any Indians, they dashed in upon us, and in less than a minute + stampeded all our stock—loose animals as well as those we were + riding. While part of the savages were employed in running off the + animals, fifty of their most noted warriors, splendidly mounted and + horribly painted, rushed into the camp, around the fire of which the men + and the little children were peacefully sitting, and, discharging their + guns as they rode up, killed one man and wounded another. + </p> + <p> + "Terribly surprised as we were, it did not turn the heads of the old + mountaineers, and I immediately told them to make a break for a clump of + timber near by, and that we would fight them as long as one of us could + stand up. There we fought and fought against fearful odds, until all were + wounded except two. The little children were captured at the beginning of + the trouble and carried off at once. After a while the savages got tired + of the hard work, and, as is frequently the case, went away of their own + free will; but they left us in a terrible plight. All were sore, stiff, + and weak from their many wounds; on foot, and without any food or + ammunition to procure game with, having exhausted our supply in the + awfully unequal battle; besides, we were miles from home, with every + prospect of starving to death. + </p> + <p> + "We could not remain where we were, so as soon as darkness came on, we + started out to walk to some settlement. We dared not show ourselves by + daylight, and all through the long hours when the sun was up, we were + obliged to hide in the brush and ravines until night overtook us again, + and we could start on our painful march. + </p> + <p> + "We had absolutely nothing to eat, and our wounds began to fester, so that + we could hardly move at all. We should undoubtedly have perished, if, on + the third day, a band of friendly Indians of another tribe had not gone to + Taos and reported the fight to the commanding officer of the troops there. + These Indians had heard of our trouble with the Utes, and knowing how + strong they were, and our weakness, surmised our condition, and so + hastened to convey the bad news. + </p> + <p> + "A company of dragoons was immediately sent to our rescue, under the + guidance of Dick Wooton, who was and has ever been a warm personal friend + of mine. They came upon us about forty miles from Taos, and never were we + more surprised; we had become so starved and emaciated that we had + abandoned all hope of escaping what seemed to be our inevitable fate. + </p> + <p> + "When the troops found us, we had only a few rags, our clothes having been + completely stripped from our bodies while struggling through the heavy + underbrush on our trail, and we were so far exhausted that we could not + stand on our feet. One more day, and we would have been laid out. + </p> + <p> + "The little children were, fortunately, saved from the horror of that + terrible march after the fight, as the Indians carried them to their + winter camp, where, if not absolutely happy, they were under shelter and + fed; escaping the starvation which would certainly have been their fate if + they had remained with us. They were eventually ransomed for a cash + payment by the government, and altogether had not been very harshly + treated." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. BENT'S FORTS. + </h2> + <p> + The famous Bent brothers, William, George, Robert, and Charles, were + French-Canadian hunters and trappers, and had been employed almost from + boyhood, in the early days of the border, by the American Fur Company in + the mountains of the Northwest. + </p> + <p> + In 1826, almost immediately after the transference of the fur trade to the + valley of the Arkansas, when the commerce of the prairies was fairly + initiated, the three Bents and Ceran St. Vrain, also a French-Canadian and + trapper, settled on the Upper Arkansas, where they erected a stockade. It + was, of course, a rude affair, formed of long stakes or pickets driven + into the ground, after the Mexican style known as jacal. The sides were + then ceiled and roofed, and it served its purpose of a trading-post. This + primitive fort was situated on the left or north bank of the river, about + halfway between Pueblo and Canyon City, those beautiful mountain towns of + to-day. + </p> + <p> + Two years afterward, in 1828, the proprietors of the primitive stockade in + the remote wilderness found it necessary to move closer to the great + hunting-grounds lower down the valley. There, about twelve miles northeast + of the now thriving town of Las Animas, the Bents commenced the + construction of a relatively large and more imposing-looking structure + than the first. The principal material used in the new building, or rather + in its walls, was adobe, or sun-dried brick, so common even to-day in New + Mexican architecture. Four years elapsed before the new fort was + completed, during which period its owners, like other trappers, lived in + tents or teepees fashioned of buffalo-skins, after the manner of the + Indians. + </p> + <p> + When at last the new station was completed, it was named Fort William, in + honour of Colonel William Bent, who was the leader of the family and the + most active trader among the four partners in the concern. The colonel + frequently made long trips to the remote villages of the Arapahoes, + Cheyennes, Kiowas, and Comanches, which were situated far to the south and + east, on the Canadian River and its large tributaries. His miscellaneous + assortment of merchandise he transported upon pack-mules to the Indian + rendezvous, bringing back to the fort the valuable furs he had exchanged + for the goods so eagerly coveted by the savages. It was while on one of + his trading expeditions to the Cheyenne nation that the colonel married a + young squaw of that tribe, the daughter of the principal chief. + </p> + <p> + William Bent for his day and time was an exceptionally good man. His + integrity, his truthfulness on all occasions, and his remarkable courage + endeared him to the red and white man alike, and Fort William prospered + wonderfully under his careful and just management. Both his brothers and + St. Vrain had taken up their residence in Taos, and upon the colonel + devolved the entire charge of the busy establishment. It soon became the + most popular rendezvous of the mountaineers and trappers, and in its + immediate vicinity several tribes of Indians took up their temporary + encampment. + </p> + <p> + In 1852 Fort William was destroyed under the following strange + circumstances: It appears that the United States desired to purchase it. + Colonel Bent had decided upon a price—sixteen thousand dollars—but + the representatives of the War Department offered only twelve thousand, + which, of course, Bent refused. Negotiations were still pending, when the + colonel, growing tired of the red-tape and circumlocution of the + authorities, and while in a mad mood, removed all his valuables from the + structure, excepting some barrels of gunpowder, and then deliberately set + fire to the old landmark. When the flames reached the powder, there was an + explosion which threw down portions of the walls, but did not wholly + destroy them. The remains of the once noted buildings stand to-day, + melancholy relics of a past epoch. + </p> + <p> + In the same year the indefatigable and indomitable colonel determined upon + erecting a much more important structure. He selected a site on the same + side of the Arkansas, in the locality known as Big Timbers. Regarding this + new venture, Colonel or Judge Moore of Las Animas, a son-in-law of William + Bent, tells in a letter to the author of the history of Colorado the + following facts:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Leaving ten men in camp to get out stone for the new post, + Colonel Bent took a part of his outfit and went to a Kiowa + village, about two hundred miles southwest, and remained + there all winter, trading with the Kiowas and Comanches. + In the spring of 1853 he returned to Big Timbers, when + the construction of the new post was begun, and the work + continued until completed in the summer of 1854; and it + was used as a trading-post until the owner leased it to + the government in the autumn of 1859. Colonel Sedgwick had + been sent out to fight the Kiowas that year, and in the fall + a large quantity of commissary stores had been sent him. + Colonel Bent then moved up the river to a point just above + the mouth of the Purgatoire, and built several rooms of + cottonwood pickets, and there spent the winter. In the + spring of 1860, Colonel Sedgwick began the construction of + officers' buildings, company quarters, corrals, and stables, + all of stone, and named the place Fort Wise, in honour of + Governor Wise of Virginia. In 1861 the name was changed to + Fort Lyon, in honour of General Lyon, who was killed at the + battle of Wilson Creek, Missouri. In the spring of 1866, + the Arkansas River overflowed its banks, swept up into the + fort, and, undermining the walls, rendered it untenable for + military purposes. The camp was moved to a point twenty + miles below, and the new Fort Lyon established. The old + post was repaired, and used as a stage station by Barlow, + Sanderson, and Company, who ran a mail, express, and + passenger line between Kansas City and Santa Fe. +</pre> + <p> + The contiguous region to Fort William was in the early days a famous + hunting-ground. It abounded in nearly every variety of animal indigenous + to the mountains and plains, among which were the panther—the + so-called California lion of to-day—the lynx, erroneously termed + wild cat, white wolf, prairie wolf, silver-gray fox, prairie fox, + antelope, buffalo, gray, grizzly and cinnamon bears, together with the + common brown and black species, the red deer and the black-tail, the + latter the finest venison in the world. Of birds there were wild turkeys, + quail, and grouse, besides an endless variety of the smaller-sized + families, not regarded as belonging to the domain of game in a hunter's + sense. It was a veritable paradise, too, for the trappers. Its numerous + streams and creeks were famous for beaver, otter, and mink. + </p> + <p> + Scarcely an acre of the surrounding area within the radius of hundreds of + miles but has been the scene of many deadly encounters with the wily red + man, stories of which are still current among the few old mountaineers yet + living. + </p> + <p> + The fort was six hundred and fifty miles west of Fort Leavenworth, in + latitude thirty-eight degrees and two minutes north, and longitude one + hundred and three degrees and three minutes west, from Greenwich. The + exterior walls of the fort, whose figure was that of a parallelogram, were + fifteen feet high and four feet thick. It was a hundred and thirty-five + feet wide and divided into various compartments. On the northwest and + southeast corners were hexagonal bastions, in which were mounted a number + of cannon. The walls of the building served as the walls of the rooms, all + of which faced inwards on a plaza, after the general style of Mexican + architecture. The roofs of the rooms were made of poles, on which was a + heavy layer of dirt, as in the houses of native Mexicans to-day. The fort + possessed a billiard table, that visitors might amuse themselves, and in + the office was a small telescope with a fair range of seven miles. + </p> + <p> + The occupants of the far-away establishment, in its palmy days (for years + it was the only building between Council Grove and the mountains), were + traders, Indians, hunters, and French trappers, who were the employees of + the great fur companies. Many of the latter had Indian wives. Later, after + a stage line had been put in operation across the plains to Santa Fe, the + fort was relegated to a mere station for the overland route, and with the + march of civilization in its course westward, the trappers, hunters, and + traders vanished from the once famous rendezvous. + </p> + <p> + The walls were loopholed for musketry, and the entrance to the plaza, or + corral, was guarded by large wooden gates. During the war with Mexico, the + fort was headquarters for the commissary department, and many supplies + were stored there, though the troops camped below on the beautiful + river-bottom. In the centre of the corral, in the early days when the + place was a rendezvous of the trappers, a large buffalo-robe press was + erected. When the writer first saw the famous fort, now over a third of a + century ago, one of the cannon, that burst in firing a salute to General + Kearney, could be seen half buried in the dirt of the plaza. + </p> + <p> + By barometrical measurements taken by the engineer officers of the army at + different times, the height of Bent's Fort above the ocean level is + approximately eight thousand nine hundred and fifty-eight feet, and the + fall of the Arkansas River from the fort to the great bend of that stream, + about three hundred and eleven miles east, is seven feet and four-tenths + per mile. + </p> + <p> + It was in a relatively fair state of preservation thirty-three years ago, + but now not a vestige of it remains, excepting perhaps a mound of dirt, + the disintegration of the mud bricks of which the historical structure was + built. + </p> + <p> + The Indians whose villages were located a few miles below the fort, or at + least the chief men of the various tribes, passed much of their time + within the shelter of the famous structure. They were bountifully fed, and + everything they needed furnished them. This was purely from policy, + however; for if their wishes were not gratified, their hunters would not + bring in their furs to trade. The principal chiefs never failed to be + present when a meal was announced as ready, and however scarce provisions + might be, the Indians must be fed. + </p> + <p> + The first farm in the fertile and now valuable lands of the valley of the + Rio de las Animas<a href="#linknote-60" name="linknoteref-60" + id="linknoteref-60"><small>60</small></a> was opened by the Bents. The + area selected for cultivation was in the beautiful bottom between the fort + and the ford, a strip about a mile in length, and from one hundred and + fifty to six hundred feet in width. Nothing could be grown without + irrigation, and to that end an acequia, as the Mexicans call the ditch + through which the water flows, was constructed, and a crop put in. Before + the enterprising projectors of the scheme could reap a harvest, the + hostile savages dashed in and destroyed everything. + </p> + <p> + Uncle John Smith was one of the principal traders back in the '30's, and + he was very successful, perhaps because he was undoubtedly the most + perfect master of the Cheyenne language at that time in the whole mountain + region. + </p> + <p> + Among those who frequently came to the fort were Kit Carson, L. B. + Maxwell, Uncle Dick Wooton, Baptiste Brown, Jim Bridger, Old Bill + Williams, James Beckwourth, Shawnee Spiebuck, Shawnee Jake—the + latter two, noted Indian trappers—besides a host of others. + </p> + <p> + The majority of the old trappers, to a stranger, until he knew their + peculiar characteristics, were seemingly of an unsociable disposition. It + was an erroneous idea, however; for they were the most genial companions + imaginable, generous to a fault, and to fall into one of their camps was + indeed a lucky thing for the lost traveller. Everything the host had was + at his guest's disposal, and though coffee and sugar were the dearest of + his luxuries, often purchased with a whole season's trapping, the black + fluid was offered with genuine free-heartedness, and the last plug of + tobacco placed at the disposition of his chance visitor, as though it + could be picked up on the ground anywhere. + </p> + <p> + Goods brought by the traders to the rendezvous for sale to the trappers + and hunters, although of the most inferior quality, were sold at + enormously high prices. + </p> + <p> + Coffee, by the pint-cup, which was the usual measure for everything, cost + from a dollar and twenty cents to three dollars; tobacco a dollar and a + half a plug; alcohol from two dollars to five dollars a pint; gunpowder + one dollar and sixty cents a pint-cup, and all other articles at + proportionably exorbitant rates. + </p> + <p> + The annual gatherings of the trappers at the rendezvous were often the + scene of bloody duels; for over their cups and cards no men were more + quarrelsome than the old-time mountaineers. Rifles at twenty paces settled + all difficulties, and, as may be imagined, the fall of one or the other of + the combatants was certain, or, as sometimes happened, both fell at the + word "Fire!" + </p> + <p> + The trapper's visits to the Mexican settlements, or to the lodges of a + tribe of Indians, for the purpose of trading, often resulted in his + returning to his quiet camp with a woman to grace his solitary home, the + loving and lonely couple as devoted to each other in the midst of + blood-thirsty enemies, howling wolves, and panthers, as if they were in + some quiet country village. + </p> + <p> + The easy manners of the harum-scarum, reckless trappers at the rendezvous, + and the simple, unsuspecting hearts of those nymphs of the mountains, the + squaws, caused their husbands to be very jealous of the attentions + bestowed upon them by strangers. Often serious difficulties arose, in the + course of which the poor wife received a severe whipping with the knot of + a lariat, or no very light lodge-poling at the hands of her imperious + sovereign. Sometimes the affair ended in a more tragical way than a mere + beating, not infrequently the gallant paying the penalty of his + interference with his life. + </p> + <p> + Garrard, a traveller on the great plains and in the Rocky Mountains half a + century ago, from whose excellent diary I have frequently quoted, passed + many days and nights at Bent's Fort fifty years ago, and his quaint + description of life there in that remote period of the extreme frontier is + very amusing. Its truth has often been confirmed by Uncle John Smith, who + was my guide and interpreter in the Indian expedition of 1868-69, only two + decades after Garrard's experience. + </p> + <p> + Rosalie, a half-breed French and Indian squaw, wife of the carpenter, and + Charlotte, the culinary divinity, were, as a Missouri teamster remarked, + "the only female women here." They were nightly led to the floor to trip + the light fantastic toe, and swung rudely or gently in the mazes of the + contra-dance, but such a medley of steps is seldom seen out of the + mountains—the halting, irregular march of the war-dance, the + slipping gallopade, the boisterous pitching of the Missouri backwoodsman, + and the more nice gyrations of the Frenchman; for all, irrespective of + rank, age, or colour, went pell-mell into the excitement, in a manner that + would have rendered a leveller of aristocracies and select companies + frantic with delight. And the airs assumed by the fair ones, more + particularly Charlotte, who took pattern from life in the States, were + amusing. She acted her part to perfection; she was the centre of + attraction, the belle of the evening. She treated the suitors for the + pleasure of the next set with becoming ease and suavity of manner; she + knew her worth, and managed accordingly. When the favoured gallant stood + by her side waiting for the rudely scraped tune from a screeching fiddle, + satisfaction, joy, and triumph over his rivals were pictured on his + radiant face. + </p> + <p> + James Hobbs, of whom I have already spoken, once gave me a graphic + description of the annual feast of the Comanches, Cheyennes, and + Arapahoes, which always took place at Big Timbers, near Fort William. + </p> + <p> + Hobbs was married to the daughter of Old Wolf, the chief of the Comanches, + a really beautiful Indian girl, with whom he lived faithfully many years. + In the early summer of 1835, he went with his father-in-law and the rest + of the tribe to the great feast of that season. He stated that on that + occasion there were forty thousand Indians assembled, and consequently + large hunting parties were sent out daily to procure food for such a vast + host. The entertainment was kept up for fifteen days, enlivened by horse + races, foot races, and playing ball. In these races the tribes would bet + their horses on the result, the Comanches generally winning, for they are + the best riders in the world. By the time the feast was ended, the + Arapahoes and Cheyennes usually found themselves afoot, but Old Wolf, who + was a generous fellow, always gave them back enough animals to get home + with. + </p> + <p> + The game of ball was played with crooked sticks, and is very much like the + American boys' "shinny." The participants are dressed in a simple + breech-cloth and moccasins. It is played with great enthusiasm and affords + much amusement. + </p> + <p> + At these annual feasts a council of the great chiefs of the three tribes + is always held, and at the one during the season referred to, Hobbs said + the Cheyenne chiefs wanted Old Wolf to visit Bent's Fort, where he had + never been. Upon the arrival of the delegation there, it was heartily + welcomed by all the famous men who happened to be at the place, among whom + were Kit Carson, Old John Smith, and several noted trappers. Whiskey + occupied a prominent place in the rejoicing, and "I found it hard work," + said Hobbs, "to stand the many toasts drank to my good health." The whole + party, including Old Wolf and his companion the Cheyenne chief, got very + much elated, and every person in the fort smelt whiskey, if they did not + get their feet tangled with it. + </p> + <p> + About midnight a messenger came inside, reporting that a thousand Comanche + warriors were gathering around the fort. They demanded their leaders, + fearing treachery, and desired to know why their chief had not returned. + Hobbs went out and explained that he was safe; but they insisted on seeing + him, so he and Hobbs showed themselves to the assembled Indians, and Old + Wolf made a speech, telling them that he and the Cheyenne chief were among + good friends to the Indians, and presents would be given to them the next + morning. The warriors were pacified with these assurances, though they did + not leave the vicinity of the fort. + </p> + <p> + It was at this time that Hobbs was ransomed by Colonel Bent, who gave Old + Wolf, for him, six yards of red flannel, a pound of tobacco, and an ounce + of beads. + </p> + <p> + The chief was taken in charge by a lieutenant, who showed him all over the + fort, letting him see the rifle port-holes, and explaining how the place + could stand a siege against a thousand Indians. Finally, he was taken out + on the parapet, where there was a six-pounder at each angle. The old + savage inquired how they could shoot such a thing, and at Hobbs' request, + a blank cartridge was put in the piece and fired. Old Wolf sprang back in + amazement, and the Indians on the outside, under the walls, knowing + nothing of what was going on, ran away as fast as their legs could carry + them, convinced that their chief must be dead now and their own safety + dependent upon flight. Old Wolf and Hobbs sprang upon the wall and + signalled and shouted to them, and they returned, asking in great + astonishment what kind of a monstrous gun it was. + </p> + <p> + About noon trading commenced. The Indians wished to come into the fort, + but Bent would not let any enter but the chiefs. At the back door the + colonel displayed his goods, and the Indians brought forward their ponies, + buffalo-robes, deer and other skins, which they traded for tobacco, beads, + calico, flannel, knives, spoons, whistles, jews'-harps, etc. + </p> + <p> + Whiskey was sold to them the first day, but as it caused several fights + among them before night, Bent stopped its sale, at Hobbs' suggestion and + with Old Wolf's consent. Indians, when they get drunk, do not waste time + by fighting with fists, like white men, but use knives and tomahawks; so + that a general scrimmage is a serious affair. Two or three deaths resulted + the first day, and there would have been many more if the sale of whiskey + had not been stopped. + </p> + <p> + The trading continued for eight days, and Colonel Bent reaped a rich + harvest of what he could turn into gold at St. Louis. Old Wolf slept in + the fort each night except one during that time, and every time his + warriors aroused him about twelve o'clock and compelled him to show + himself on the walls to satisfy them of his safety. + </p> + <p> + About a hundred trappers were in the employ of Bent and his partners. + Sometimes one-half of the company were off on a hunt, leaving but a small + force at the fort for its protection, but with the small battery there its + defence was considered sufficient. + </p> + <p> + One day a trapping party, consisting of Kit Carson, "Peg-leg" Smith, and + James Hobbs, together with some Shawnee Indians, all under the lead of + Carson, started out from Bent's Fort for the Picketwire to trap beaver. + </p> + <p> + Grizzlies were very abundant in that region then, and one of the party, + named McIntire, having killed an elk the evening before, said to Hobbs + that they might stand a good chance to find a grizzly by the elk he had + shot but had not brought in. Hobbs said that he was willing to go with + him, but as McIntire was a very green man in the mountains, Hobbs had some + doubts of depending on him in case of an attack by a grizzly bear. + </p> + <p> + The two men left for the ravine in which McIntire had killed the elk very + early in the morning, taking with them tomahawks, hunting-knives, rifles, + and a good dog. On arriving at the ravine, Hobbs told McIntire to cross + over to the other side and climb the hill, but on no account to go down + into the ravine, as a grizzly is more dangerous when he has a man on the + downhill side. Hobbs then went to where he thought the elk might be if he + had died by the bank of the stream; but as soon as he came near the water, + he saw that a large grizzly had got there before him, having scented the + animal, and was already making his breakfast. + </p> + <p> + The bear was in thick, scrubby oak brush, and Hobbs, making his dog lie + down, crawled behind a rock to get a favourable shot at the beast. He drew + a bead on him and fired, but the bear only snarled at the wound made by + the ball and started tearing through the brush, biting furiously at it as + he went. Hobbs reloaded his rifle carefully, and as quickly as he could, + in order to get a second shot; but, to his amazement, he saw the bear + rushing down the ravine chasing McIntire, who was only about ten feet in + advance of the enraged beast, running for his life, and making as much + noise as a mad bull. He was terribly scared, and Hobbs hastened to his + rescue, first sending his dog ahead. + </p> + <p> + Just as the dog reached the bear, McIntire darted behind a tree and flung + his hat in the bear's face, at the same time sticking his rifle toward + him. The old grizzly seized the muzzle of the gun in his teeth, and, as it + was loaded and cocked, it either went off accidentally or otherwise and + blew the bear's head open, just as the dog had fastened on his + hindquarters. Hobbs ran to the assistance of his comrade with all haste, + but he was out of danger and had sat down a few rods away, with his face + as white as a sheet, a badly frightened man. + </p> + <p> + After that fearful scare, McIntire would cook or do anything, but said he + never intended to make a business of bear-hunting; he had only wished for + one adventure, and this one had satisfied him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. PAWNEE ROCK. + </h2> + <p> + That portion of the great central plains which radiates from Pawnee Rock, + including the Big Bend of the Arkansas, thirteen miles distant, where that + river makes a sudden sweep to the southeast, and the beautiful valley of + the Walnut, in all its vast area of more than a million square acres, was + from time immemorial a sort of debatable land, occupied by none of the + Indian tribes, but claimed by all to hunt in; for it was a famous + pasturage of the buffalo. + </p> + <p> + None of the various bands had the temerity to attempt its permanent + occupancy; for whenever hostile tribes met there, which was of frequent + occurrence, in their annual hunt for their winter's supply of meat, a + bloody battle was certain to ensue. The region referred to has been the + scene of more sanguinary conflicts between the different Indians of the + plains, perhaps, than any other portion of the continent. Particularly was + it the arena of war to the death, when the Pawnees met their hereditary + enemies, the Cheyennes. + </p> + <p> + Pawnee Rock was a spot well calculated by nature to form, as it has done, + an important rendezvous and ambuscade for the prowling savages of the + prairies, and often afforded them, especially the once powerful and + murderous Pawnees whose name it perpetuates, a pleasant little retreat or + eyrie from which to watch the passing Santa Fe traders, and dash down upon + them like hawks, to carry off their plunder and their scalps. + </p> + <p> + Through this once dangerous region, close to the silent Arkansas, and + running under the very shadow of the rock, the Old Trail wound its course. + Now, at this point, it is the actual road-bed of the Atchison, Topeka, and + Santa Fe Railroad, so strangely are the past and present transcontinental + highways connected here. + </p> + <p> + Who, among bearded and grizzled old fellows like myself, has forgotten + that most sensational of all the miserably executed illustrations in the + geographies of fifty years ago, "The Santa Fe Traders attacked by + Indians"? The picture located the scene of the fight at Pawnee Rock, which + formed a sort of nondescript shadow in the background of a crudely drawn + representation of the dangers of the Trail. + </p> + <p> + If this once giant sentinel<a href="#linknote-61" name="linknoteref-61" + id="linknoteref-61"><small>61</small></a> of the plains might speak, what + a story it could tell of the events that have happened on the beautiful + prairie stretching out for miles at its feet! + </p> + <p> + In the early fall, when the rock was wrapped in the soft amber haze which + is a distinguishing characteristic of the incomparable Indian summer on + the plains; or in the spring, when the mirage weaves its mysterious + shapes, it loomed up in the landscape as if it were a huge mountain, and + to the inexperienced eye appeared as if it were the abrupt ending of a + well-defined range. But when the frost came, and the mists were dispelled; + when the thin fringe of timber on the Walnut, a few miles distant, had + doffed its emerald mantle, and the grass had grown yellow and rusty, then + in the golden sunlight of winter, the rock sank down to its normal + proportions, and cut the clear blue of the sky with sharply marked lines. + </p> + <p> + In the days when the Santa Fe trade was at its height, the Pawnees were + the most formidable tribe on the eastern central plains, and the + freighters and trappers rarely escaped a skirmish with them either at the + crossing of the Walnut, Pawnee Rock, the Fork of the Pawnee, or at Little + and Big Coon creeks. To-day what is left of the historic hill looks down + only upon peaceful homes and fruitful fields, whereas for hundreds of + years it witnessed nothing but battle and death, and almost every yard of + brown sod at its base covered a skeleton. In place of the horrid yell of + the infuriated savage, as he wrenched off the reeking scalp of his victim, + the whistle of the locomotive and the pleasant whirr of the + reaping-machine is heard; where the death-cry of the painted warrior rang + mournfully over the silent prairie, the waving grain is singing in + beautiful rhythm as it bows to the summer breeze. + </p> + <p> + Pawnee Rock received its name in a baptism of blood, but there are many + versions as to the time and sponsors. It was there that Kit Carson killed + his first Indian, and from that fight, as he told me himself, the broken + mass of red sandstone was given its distinctive title. + </p> + <p> + It was late in the spring of 1826; Kit was then a mere boy, only seventeen + years old, and as green as any boy of his age who had never been forty + miles from the place where he was born. Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, then a + prominent agent of one of the great fur companies, was fitting out an + expedition destined for the far-off Rocky Mountains, the members of which, + all trappers, were to obtain the skins of the buffalo, beaver, otter, + mink, and other valuable fur-bearing animals that then roamed in immense + numbers on the vast plains or in the hills, and were also to trade with + the various tribes of Indians on the borders of Mexico. + </p> + <p> + Carson joined this expedition, which was composed of twenty-six mule + wagons, some loose stock, and forty-two men. The boy was hired to help + drive the extra animals, hunt game, stand guard, and to make himself + generally useful, which, of course, included fighting Indians if any were + met with on the long route. + </p> + <p> + The expedition left Fort Osage one bright morning in May in excellent + spirits, and in a few hours turned abruptly to the west on the broad Trail + to the mountains. The great plains in those early days were solitary and + desolate beyond the power of description; the Arkansas River sluggishly + followed the tortuous windings of its treeless banks with a placidness + that was awful in its very silence; and whoso traced the wanderings of + that stream with no companion but his own thoughts, realized in all its + intensity the depth of solitude from which Robinson Crusoe suffered on his + lonely island. Illimitable as the ocean, the weary waste stretched away + until lost in the purple of the horizon, and the mirage created weird + pictures in the landscape, distorted distances and objects which + continually annoyed and deceived. Despite its loneliness, however, there + was then, and ever has been for many men, an infatuation for those + majestic prairies that once experienced is never lost, and it came to the + boyish heart of Kit, who left them but with life, and full of years. + </p> + <p> + There was not much variation in the eternal sameness of things during the + first two weeks, as the little train moved day after day through the + wilderness of grass, its ever-rattling wheels only intensifying the + surrounding monotony. Occasionally, however, a herd of buffalo was + discovered in the distance, their brown, shaggy sides contrasting with the + never-ending sea of verdure around them. Then young Kit, and two or three + others of the party who were detailed to supply the teamsters and trappers + with meat, would ride out after them on the best of the extra horses which + were always kept saddled and tied together behind the last wagon for + services of this kind. Kit, who was already an excellent horseman and a + splendid shot with the rifle, would soon overtake them, and topple one + after another of their huge fat carcasses over on the prairie until half a + dozen or more were lying dead. The tender humps, tongues, and other choice + portions were then cut out and put in a wagon which had by that time + reached them from the train, and the expedition rolled on. + </p> + <p> + So they marched for about three weeks, when they arrived at the crossing + of the Walnut, where they saw the first signs of Indians. They had halted + for that day; the mules were unharnessed, the camp-fires lighted, and the + men just about to indulge in their refreshing coffee, when suddenly half a + dozen Pawnees, mounted on their ponies, hideously painted and uttering the + most demoniacal yells, rushed out of the tall grass on the river-bottom, + where they had been ambushed, and swinging their buffalo-robes, attempted + to stampede the herd picketed near the camp. The whole party were on their + feet in an instant with rifles in hand, and all the savages got for their + trouble were a few well-deserved shots as they hurriedly scampered back to + the river and over into the sand hills on the other side, soon to be out + of sight. + </p> + <p> + The expedition travelled sixteen miles next day, and camped at Pawnee + Rock, where, after the experience of the evening before, every precaution + was taken to prevent a surprise by the savages. The wagons were formed + into a corral, so that the animals could be secured in the event of a + prolonged fight; the guards were drilled by the colonel, and every man + slept with his rifle for a bed-fellow, for the old trappers knew that the + Indians would never remain satisfied with their defeat on the Walnut, but + would seize the first favourable opportunity to renew their attack. + </p> + <p> + At dark the sentinels were placed in position, and to young Kit fell the + important post immediately in front of the south face of the Rock, nearly + two hundred yards from the corral; the others being at prominent points on + top, and on the open prairie on either side. All who were not on duty had + long since been snoring heavily, rolled up in their blankets and + buffalo-robes, when at about half-past eleven, one of the guard gave the + alarm, "Indians!" and ran the mules that were nearest him into the corral. + In a moment the whole company turned out at the report of a rifle ringing + on the clear night air, coming from the direction of the rock. The men had + gathered at the opening to the corral, waiting for developments, when Kit + came running in, and as soon as he was near enough, the colonel asked him + whether he had seen any Indians. "Yes," Kit replied, "I killed one of the + red devils; I saw him fall!" + </p> + <p> + The alarm proved to be false; there was no further disturbance that night, + so the party returned to their beds, and the sentinels to their several + posts, Kit of course to his place in front of the Rock. + </p> + <p> + Early the next morning, before breakfast even, all were so anxious to see + Kit's dead Indian, that they went out en masse to where he was still + stationed, and instead of finding a painted Pawnee, as was expected, they + found the boy's riding mule dead, shot right through the head. + </p> + <p> + Kit felt terribly mortified over his ridiculous blunder, and it was a long + time before he heard the last of his midnight adventure and his raid on + his own mule. But he always liked to tell the "balance of the story," as + he termed it, and this is his version: "I had not slept any the night + before, for I stayed awake watching to get a shot at the Pawnees that + tried to stampede our animals, expecting they would return; and I hadn't + caught a wink all day, as I was out buffalo hunting, so I was awfully + tired and sleepy when we arrived at Pawnee Rock that evening, and when I + was posted at my place at night, I must have gone to sleep leaning against + the rocks; at any rate, I was wide enough awake when the cry of Indians + was given by one of the guard. I had picketed my mule about twenty steps + from where I stood, and I presume he had been lying down; all I remember + is that the first thing I saw after the alarm was something rising up out + of the grass, which I thought was an Indian. I pulled the trigger; it was + a centre shot, and I don't believe the mule ever kicked after he was hit!" + </p> + <p> + The next morning about daylight, a band of Pawnees attacked the train in + earnest, and kept the little command busy all that day, the next night, + and until the following midnight, nearly three whole days, the mules all + the time being shut in the corral without food or water. At midnight of + the second day the colonel ordered the men to hitch up and attempt to + drive on to the crossing of Pawnee Fork, thirteen miles distant.<a + href="#linknote-62" name="linknoteref-62" id="linknoteref-62"><small>62</small></a> + They succeeded in getting there, fighting their way without the loss of + any of their men or animals. The Trail crossed the creek in the shape of a + horseshoe, or rather, in consequence of the double bend of the stream as + it empties into the Arkansas, the road crossed it twice. In making this + passage, dangerous on account of its crookedness, Kit said many of the + wagons were badly mashed up; for the mules were so thirsty that their + drivers could not control them. The train was hardly strung out on the + opposite bank when the Indians poured in a volley of bullets and a shower + of arrows from both sides of the Trail; but before they could load and + fire again, a terrific charge was on them, led by Colonel St. Vrain and + Carson. It required only a few moments more to clean out the persistent + savages, and the train went on. During the whole fight the little party + lost four men killed and seven wounded, and eleven mules killed (not + counting Kit's), and twenty badly wounded. + </p> + <p> + A great many years ago, very early in the days of the trade with New + Mexico, seven Americans were surprised by a large band of Pawnees in the + vicinity of the Rock and were compelled to retreat to it for safety. + There, without water, and with but a small quantity of provisions, they + were besieged by their blood-thirsty foes for two days, when a party of + traders coming on the Trail relieved them from their perilous situation + and the presence of their enemy. There were several graves on its summit + when I first saw Pawnee Rock; but whether they contained the bones of + savages or those of white men, I do not know. + </p> + <p> + Carson related to me another terrible fight that took place at the rock, + when he first became a trapper. He was not a participant, but knew the + parties well. About twenty-nine years ago, Kit, Jack Henderson, who was + agent for the Ute Indians, Lucien B. Maxwell, General Carleton and myself + were camped halfway up the rugged sides of Old Baldy, in the Raton Range. + The night was intensely cold, although in midsummer, and we were huddled + around a little fire of pine knots, more than seven thousand feet above + the level of the sea, close to the snow limit. + </p> + <p> + Kit, or "the General," as every one called him, was in a good humour for + talking, and we naturally took advantage of this to draw him out; for + usually he was the most reticent of men in relating his own exploits. A + casual remark made by Maxwell opened Carson's mouth, and he said he + remembered one of the "worst difficults" a man ever got into.<a + href="#linknote-63" name="linknoteref-63" id="linknoteref-63"><small>63</small></a> + So he made a fresh corn-shuck cigarette, and related the following; but + the names of the old trappers who were the principals in the fight I have + unfortunately forgotten. + </p> + <p> + Two men had been trapping in the Powder River country during one winter + with unusually good luck, and they got an early start with their furs, + which they were going to take to Weston, on the Missouri, one of the + principal trading points in those days. They walked the whole distance, + driving their pack-mules before them, and experienced no trouble until + they struck the Arkansas valley at Pawnee Rock. There they were + intercepted by a war-party of about sixty Pawnees. Both of the trappers + were notoriously brave and both dead shots. Before they arrived at the + rock, to which they were finally driven, they killed two of the Indians, + and had not themselves received a scratch. They had plenty of powder, a + pouch full of balls each, and two good rifles. They also had a couple of + jack-rabbits for food in case of a siege, and the perpendicular walls of + the front of the rock made them a natural fortification, an almost + impregnable one against Indians. + </p> + <p> + They succeeded in securely picketing their animals at the side of the + rock, where they could protect them by their unerring rifles from being + stampeded. After the Pawnees had "treed" the two trappers on the rock, + they picked up their dead, and packed them off to their camp at the mouth + of a little ravine a short distance away. In a few moments back they all + came, mounted on fast ponies, with their war-paint and other fixings on, + ready to renew the fight. They commenced to circle around the place, + coming closer, Indian fashion, every time, until they got within easy + rifle-range, when they slung themselves on the opposite sides of their + horses, and in that position opened fire. Their arrows fell like a + hailstorm, but as good luck would have it, none of them struck, and the + balls from their rifles were wild, as the Indians in those days were not + very good shots; the rifle was a new weapon to them. The trappers at first + were afraid the savages would surely try to kill the mules, but soon + reflected that the Indians believed they had the "dead-wood" on them, and + the mules would come handy after they had been scalped; so they felt + satisfied their animals were safe for a while anyhow. The men were taking + in all the chances, however; both kept their eyes skinned, and whenever + one of them saw a stray leg or head, he drew a bead on it and when he + pulled the trigger, its owner tumbled over with a yell of rage from his + companions. + </p> + <p> + Whenever the savages attempted to carry off their dead,<a + href="#linknote-64" name="linknoteref-64" id="linknoteref-64"><small>64</small></a> + the two trappers took advantage of the opportunity, and poured in their + shots every time with telling effect. + </p> + <p> + By this time night had fallen, and the Indians did not seem anxious to + renew the fight after dark; but they kept their mounted patrols on every + side of the rock, at a respectable distance from such dead shots, watching + to prevent the escape of the besieged. As they were hungry, one of the men + went down under cover of the darkness to get a few buffalo-chips with + which to cook their rabbit, and to change the animals to where they could + get fresh grass. He returned safely to the summit of the rock, where a + little fire was made and their supper prepared. They had to go without + water all the time, and so did the mules; the men did not mind the want of + it themselves, but they could not help pitying their poor animals that had + had none since they left camp early that morning. It was no use to worry, + though; the nearest water was at the river, and it would have been certain + death to have attempted to go there unless the savages cleared out, and + from all appearances they had no idea of doing that. + </p> + <p> + What gave the trappers more cause for alarm than anything else, was the + fear that the Indians would fire the prairie in the morning, and endeavour + to smoke them out or burn them up. The grass was in just the condition to + make a lively blaze, and they might escape the flames, and then they might + not. It can well be imagined how eagerly they watched for the dawn of + another day, perhaps the last for them. + </p> + <p> + The first gray streaks of light had hardly peeped above the horizon, when, + with an infernal yell, the Indians broke for the rock, and the trappers + were certain that some new project had entered their heads. The wind was + springing up pretty freshly, and nature seemed to conspire with the red + devils, if they really meant to burn the trappers out; and from the + movements of the savages, that was what they expected. The Indians kept at + a respectful distance from the range of the trappers' rifles, who chafed + because they could not stop some of the infernal yelling with a few + well-directed bullets, but they had to choke their rage, and watch events + closely. During a temporary lull in hostilities, one of the trappers took + occasion to crawl down to where the mules were, and shift them to the west + side of the rock, where the wall was the highest; so that the flame and + smoke might possibly pass by them without so much danger as where they + were picketed before. He had just succeeded in doing this, and, tearing up + the long grass for several yards around the animals, was in the act of + going back, when his partner yelled out to him: "Look out! D—-n 'em, + they've fired the prairie!" He was back on the top of the rock in another + moment, and took in at a glance what was coming. + </p> + <p> + The spectacle for a short interval was indescribably grand; the sun was + shining with all the power of its rays on the huge clouds of smoke as they + rolled down from the north, tinting them a glorious crimson. The two + trappers had barely time to get under the shelter of a large projecting + point of the rocky wall, when the wind and smoke swept down to the ground, + and instantly they were enveloped in the darkness of midnight. They could + not discern a single object; neither Indians, horses, the prairie, nor the + sun; and what a terrible wind! + </p> + <p> + The trappers stood breathless, clinging to the projections of rock, and + did not realize the fire was so near them until they were struck in the + face by pieces of burning buffalo-chips that were carried toward them with + the rapidity of the awful wind. They were now badly scared, for it seemed + as if they were to be suffocated. They were saved, however, almost + miraculously; the sheet of flame passed them twenty yards away, as the + wind fortunately shifted at the moment the fire reached the foot of the + rock. The darkness was so intense that they did not discover the flame; + they only knew that they were saved as the clear sky greeted them from + behind the dense smoke-cloud. + </p> + <p> + Two of the Indians and their horses were caught in their own trap, and + perished miserably. They had attempted to reach the east side of the rock, + so as to steal around to the other side where the mules were, and either + cut them loose or crawl up on the trappers while bewildered in the smoke + and kill them, if they were not already dead. But they had proceeded only + a few rods on their little expedition, when the terrible darkness of the + smoke-cloud overtook them and soon the flames, from which there was no + possible escape. + </p> + <p> + All the game on the prairie which the fire swept over was killed too. Only + a few buffalo were visible in that region before the fire, but even they + were killed. The path of the flames, as was discovered by the caravans + that passed over the Trail a few days afterward, was marked with the crisp + and blackened carcasses of wolves, coyotes, turkeys, grouse, and every + variety of small birds indigenous to the region. Indeed, it seemed as if + no living thing it had met escaped its fury. The fire assumed such + gigantic proportions, and moved with such rapidity before the wind, that + even the Arkansas River did not check its path for a moment; it was + carried as readily across as if the stream had not been in its way. + </p> + <p> + The first thought of the trappers on the rock was for their poor mules. + One crawled to where they were, and found them badly singed, but not + seriously injured. The men began to brighten up again when they knew that + their means of transportation were relatively all right, and themselves + also, and they took fresh courage, beginning to believe they should get + out of their bad scrape after all. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the Indians, with the exception of three or four left to + guard the rock, so as to prevent the trappers from getting away, had gone + back to their camp in the ravine, and were evidently concocting some new + scheme for the discomfort of the besieged trappers. The latter waited + patiently two or three hours for the development of events, snatching a + little sleep by turns, which they needed much; for both were worn out by + their constant watching. At last when the sun was about three hours high, + the Indians commenced their infernal howling again, and then the trappers + knew they had decided upon something; so they were on the alert in a + moment to discover what it was, and euchre them if possible. + </p> + <p> + The devils this time had tied all their ponies together, covered them with + branches of trees that they had gone up on the Walnut for, packed some + lodge-skins on these, and then, driving the living breastworks before + them, moved toward the rock. They proceeded cautiously but surely, and + matters began to look very serious for the trappers. As the strange + cavalcade approached, a trapper raised his rifle, and a masked pony + tumbled over on the scorched sod dead. As one of the Indians ran to cut + him loose, the other trapper took him off his feet by a well-directed + shot; he never uttered a groan. The besieged now saw their only salvation + was to kill the ponies and so demoralize the Indians that they would have + to abandon such tactics, and quicker than I can tell it, they had + stretched four more out on the prairie, and made it so hot for the savages + that they ran out of range and began to hold a council of war. + </p> + <p> + Finding that their plan would not work—for as the last pony was + shot, the rest stampeded and were running wild over the prairie—the + Indians soon went back to their camp again, and the trappers now had a few + spare moments in which to take an account of stock. They discovered, much + to their chagrin, that they had used up all their ammunition except three + or four loads, and despair hovered over them once more. + </p> + <p> + The Indians did not reappear that evening, and the cause was apparent; for + in the distance could be seen a long line of wagons, one of the large + American caravans en route to Santa Fe. The savages had seen it before the + trappers, and had cleared out. When the train arrived opposite the rock, + the relieved men came down from their little fortress, joined the caravan, + and camped with the Americans that night on the Walnut. While they were + resting around their camp-fire, smoking and telling of their terrible + experience on the top of the rock, the Indians could be heard chanting the + death-song while they were burying their warriors under the blackened sod + of the prairie. + </p> + <p> + I witnessed a spirited encounter between a small band of Cheyennes and + Pawnees in the fall of 1867. It occurred on the open prairie north of the + mouth of the Walnut, and not a great distance from Pawnee Rock. Both + tribes were hunting buffalo, and when they, by accident, discovered the + presence of each other, with a yell that fairly shook the sand dunes on + the Arkansas, they rushed at once into the shock of battle. + </p> + <p> + That night, in a timbered bend of the Walnut, the victors had a grand + dance, in which scalps, ears, and fingers of their enemies, suspended by + strings to long poles, were important accessories to their weird orgies + around their huge camp-fires.<a href="#linknote-65" name="linknoteref-65" + id="linknoteref-65"><small>65</small></a> + </p> + <p> + One of the most horrible massacres in the history of the Trail occurred at + Little Cow Creek in the summer of 1864. In July of that year a government + caravan, loaded with military stores for Fort Union in New Mexico, left + Fort Leavenworth for the long and dangerous journey of more than seven + hundred miles over the great plains, which that season were infested by + Indians to a degree almost without precedent in the annals of freight + traffic. + </p> + <p> + The train was owned by a Mr. H. C. Barret, a contractor with the + quartermaster's department; but he declined to take the chances of the + trip unless the government would lease the outfit in its entirety, or give + him an indemnifying bond as assurance against any loss. The chief + quartermaster executed the bond as demanded, and Barret hired his + teamsters for the hazardous journey; but he found it a difficult matter to + induce men to go out that season. + </p> + <p> + Among those whom he persuaded to enter his employ was a mere boy, named + McGee, who came wandering into Leavenworth a few weeks before the train + was ready to leave, seeking work of any description. His parents had died + on their way to Kansas, and on his arrival at Westport Landing, the + emigrant outfit that had extended to him shelter and protection in his + utter loneliness was disbanded; so the youthful orphan was thrown on his + own resources. At that time the Indians of the great plains, especially + along the line of the Santa Fe Trail, were very hostile, and continually + harassing the freight caravans and stage-coaches of the overland route. + Companies of men were enlisting and being mustered into the United States + service to go out after the savages, and young Robert McGee volunteered + with hundreds of others for the dangerous duty. The government needed men + badly, but McGee's youth militated against him, and he was below the + required stature; so he was rejected by the mustering officer. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Barret, in hunting for teamsters to drive his caravan, came across + McGee, who, supposing that he was hiring as a government employee, + accepted Mr. Barret's offer. + </p> + <p> + By the last day of June the caravan was all ready, and on the morning of + the next day, July 1, the wagons rolled out of the fort, escorted by a + company of United States troops, from the volunteers referred to. + </p> + <p> + The caravan wound its weary way over the lonesome Trail with nothing to + relieve the monotony save a few skirmishes with the Indians; but no + casualties occurred in these insignificant battles, the savages being + afraid to venture too near on account of the presence of the military + escort. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th of July, the caravan arrived in the vicinity of Fort Larned. + There it was supposed that the proximity of that military post would be a + sufficient guarantee from any attack of the savages; so the men of the + train became careless, and as the day was excessively hot, they went into + camp early in the afternoon, the escort remaining in bivouac about a mile + in the rear of the train. + </p> + <p> + About five o'clock, a hundred and fifty painted savages, under the command + of Little Turtle of the Brule Sioux, swooped down on the unsuspecting + caravan while the men were enjoying their evening meal. Not a moment was + given them to rally to the defence of their lives, and of all belonging to + the outfit, with the exception of one boy, not a soul came out alive. + </p> + <p> + The teamsters were every one of them shot dead and their bodies horribly + mutilated. After their successful raid, the savages destroyed everything + they found in the wagons, tearing the covers into shreds, throwing the + flour on the trail, and winding up by burning everything that was + combustible. + </p> + <p> + On the same day the commanding officer of Fort Larned had learned from + some of his scouts that the Brule Sioux were on the war-path, and the + chief of the scouts with a handful of soldiers was sent out to + reconnoitre. They soon struck the trail of Little Turtle and followed it + to the scene of the massacre on Cow Creek, arriving there only two hours + after the savages had finished their devilish work. Dead men were lying + about in the short buffalo-grass which had been stained and matted by + their flowing blood, and the agonized posture of their bodies told far + more forcibly than any language the tortures which had come before a + welcome death. All had been scalped; all had been mutilated in that + nameless manner which seems to delight the brutal instincts of the North + American savage. + </p> + <p> + Moving slowly from one to the other of the lifeless forms which still + showed the agony of their death-throes, the chief of the scouts came + across the bodies of two boys, both of whom had been scalped and + shockingly wounded, besides being mutilated, yet, strange to say, both of + them were alive. As tenderly as the men could lift them, they were + conveyed at once back to Fort Larned and given in charge of the post + surgeon. One of the boys died in a few hours after his arrival in the + hospital, but the other, Robert McGee, slowly regained his strength, and + came out of the ordeal in fairly good health. + </p> + <p> + The story of the massacre was related by young McGee, after he was able to + talk, while in the hospital at the fort; for he had not lost consciousness + during the suffering to which he was subjected by the savages. + </p> + <p> + He was compelled to witness the tortures inflicted on his wounded and + captive companions, after which he was dragged into the presence of the + chief, Little Turtle, who determined that he would kill the boy with his + own hands. He shot him in the back with his own revolver, having first + knocked him down with a lance handle. He then drove two arrows through the + unfortunate boy's body, fastening him to the ground, and stooping over his + prostrate form ran his knife around his head, lifting sixty-four square + inches of his scalp, trimming it off just behind his ears. + </p> + <p> + Believing him dead by that time, Little Turtle abandoned his victim; but + the other savages, as they went by his supposed corpse, could not resist + their infernal delight in blood, so they thrust their knives into him, and + bored great holes in his body with their lances. + </p> + <p> + After the savages had done all that their devilish ingenuity could + contrive, they exultingly rode away, yelling as they bore off the reeking + scalps of their victims, and drove away the hundreds of mules they had + captured. + </p> + <p> + When the tragedy was ended, the soldiers, who had from their + vantage-ground witnessed the whole diabolical transaction, came up to the + bloody camp by order of their commander, to learn whether the teamsters + had driven away their assailants, and saw too late what their cowardice + had allowed to take place. The officer in command of the escort was + dismissed the service, as he could not give any satisfactory reason for + not going to the rescue of the caravan he had been ordered to guard. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. FOOLING STAGE ROBBERS. + </h2> + <p> + The Wagon Mound, so called from its resemblance to a covered army-wagon, + is a rocky mesa forty miles from Point of Rocks, westwardly. The stretch + of the Trail from the latter to the mound has been the scene of some + desperate encounters, only exceeded in number and sanguinary results by + those which have occurred in the region of Pawnee Rock, the crossing of + the Walnut, Pawnee Fork, and Cow Creek. + </p> + <p> + One of the most remarkable stories of this Wagon Mound country dealt with + the nerve and bravery exhibited by John L. Hatcher in defence of his life, + and those of the men in his caravan, about 1858. + </p> + <p> + Hatcher was a noted trader and merchant of New Mexico. He was also + celebrated as an Indian fighter, and his name was a terror to the savages + who infested the settlements of New Mexico and raided the Trail. + </p> + <p> + He left Taos, where he then resided, in the summer, with his caravan + loaded with furs and pelts destined for Westport Landing; to be forwarded + from there to St. Louis, the only market for furs in the far West. His + train was a small one, comprising about fifteen wagons and handled by + about as many men, including himself. At the date of his adventure the + Indians were believed to be at peace with everybody; a false idea, as + Hatcher well knew, for there never was such a condition of affairs as + absolute immunity from their attacks. While it might be true that the old + men refrained for a time from starting out on the war-path, there were + ever the vastly greater number of restless young warriors who had not yet + earned their eagle feathers, who could not be controlled by their chiefs, + and who were always engaged in marauding, either among the border + settlements or along the line of the Trail. + </p> + <p> + When Hatcher was approaching the immediate vicinity of Wagon Mound,<a + href="#linknote-66" name="linknoteref-66" id="linknoteref-66"><small>66</small></a> + with his train strung out in single column, to his great astonishment + there suddenly charged on him from over the hill about three hundred + savages, all feather-bedecked and painted in the highest style of Indian + art. As they rode toward the caravan, they gave the sign of peace, which + Hatcher accepted for the time as true, although he knew them well. + However, he invited the head men to some refreshment, as was usual on such + occasions in those days, throwing a blanket on the ground, on which sugar + in abundance was served out. The sweet-toothed warriors helped themselves + liberally, and affected much delight at the way they were being treated; + but Hatcher, with his knowledge of the savage character, was firm in the + belief that they came for no other purpose than to rob the caravan and + kill him and his men. + </p> + <p> + They were Comanches, and one of the most noted chiefs of the tribe was in + command of the band, with some inferior chiefs under him. I think it was + Old Wolf, a very old man then, whose raids into Texas had made his name a + terror to the Mexicans living on the border. + </p> + <p> + While the chiefs were eating their saccharine lunch, Hatcher was losing no + time in forming his wagons into a corral, but he told his friends + afterward that he had no idea that either he or any of his men would + escape; only fifteen or sixteen men against over three hundred merciless + savages, and those the worst on the continent, and a small corral—the + chances were totally hopeless! Nothing but a desperate action could avail, + and maybe not even that.<a href="#linknote-67" name="linknoteref-67" + id="linknoteref-67"><small>67</small></a> Hatcher, after the other head + men had finished eating, asked the old chief to send his young warriors + away over the hill. They were all sitting close to one of the wagons, Old + Wolf, in fact, leaning against the wheel resting on his blanket, with + Hatcher next him on his right. Hatcher was so earnest in his appeal to + have the young men sent away, that both the venerable villain and his + other chiefs rose and were standing. Without a moment's notice or the + slightest warning, Hatcher reached with his left hand and grabbed Old Wolf + by his scalp-lock, and with his right drew his butcher-knife from its + scabbard and thrust it at the throat of the chief. All this was done in an + instant, as quick as lightning; no one had time to move. The situation was + remarkable. The little, wiry man, surrounded by eight or nine of the most + renowned warriors of the dreaded Comanches, stood firm; everybody was + breathless; not a word did the savages say. Hatcher then said again to Old + Wolf, in the most determined manner: "Send your young men over the hill at + once, or I'll kill you right where you are!" holding on to the hair of the + savage with his left hand and keeping the knife at his throat. + </p> + <p> + The other Indians did not dare to make a move; they knew what kind of a + man Hatcher was; they knew he would do as he had said, and that if they + attempted a rescue he would kill their favourite chief in a second. + </p> + <p> + Old Wolf shook his head defiantly in the negative. Hatcher repeated his + order, getting madder all the time: "Send your young men over the hill; I + tell you!" Old Wolf was still stubborn; he shook his head again. Hatcher + gave him another chance: "Send your young men over the hill, I tell you, + or I'll scalp you alive as you are!" Again the chief shook his head. Then + Hatcher, still holding on the hair of his stubborn victim, commenced to + make an incision in the head of Old Wolf, for the determined man was bound + to carry out his threat; but he began very slowly. + </p> + <p> + As the chief felt the blood trickle down his forehead, he weakened. He + ordered his next in command to send the young men over the hill and out of + sight. The order was repeated immediately to the warriors, who were + astonished spectators of the strange scene, and they quickly mounted their + horses and rode away over the hill as fast as they could thump their + animals' sides with their legs, leaving only five or six chiefs with Old + Wolf and Hatcher. + </p> + <p> + Hatcher held on like grim death to the old chief's head, and immediately + ordered his men to throw the robes out of the wagons as quickly as they + could, and get inside themselves. This was promptly obeyed, and when they + were all under the cover of the wagon sheets, Hatcher let go of his + victim's hair, and, with a last kick, told him and his friends that they + could leave. They went off, and did not return. + </p> + <p> + Some laughable incidents have enlivened the generally sanguinary history + of the Old Santa Fe Trail, but they were very serious at the time to those + who were the actors, and their ludicrousness came after all was over. + </p> + <p> + In the late summer of 1866, a thieving band of Apaches came into the + vicinity of Fort Union, New Mexico, and after carefully reconnoitring the + whole region and getting at the manner in which the stock belonging to the + fort was herded, they secreted themselves in the Turkey Mountains + overlooking the entire reservation, and lay in wait for several days, + watching for a favourable moment to make a raid into the valley and drive + off the herd. + </p> + <p> + Selecting an occasion when the guard was weak and not very alert, they in + broad daylight crawled under the cover of a hill, and, mounting their + horses, dashed out with the most unearthly yells and down among the + animals that were quietly grazing close to the fort, which terrified these + so greatly that they broke away from the herders, and started at their + best gait toward the mountains, closely followed by the savages. + </p> + <p> + The astonished soldiers used every effort to avert the evident loss of + their charge, and many shots were exchanged in the running fight that + ensued; but the Indians were too strong for them, and they were forced to + abandon the chase. + </p> + <p> + Among the herders was a bugler boy, who was remarkable for his bravery in + the skirmish and for his untiring endeavours to turn the animals back + toward the fort, but all without avail; on they went, with the savages, + close to their heels, giving vent to the most vociferous shouts of + exultation, and directing the most obscene and insulting gesticulations to + the soldiers that were after them. + </p> + <p> + While this exciting contest for the mastery was going on, an old Apache + chief dashed in the rear of the bold bugler boy, and could, without doubt, + easily have killed the little fellow; but instead of doing this, from some + idea of a good joke, or for some other incomprehensible reason, his + natural blood-thirsty instinct was changed, and he merely knocked the + bugler's hat from his head with the flat of his hand, and at the same time + encouragingly stroked his hair, as much as to say: "You are a brave boy," + and then rode off without doing him any harm. + </p> + <p> + Thirty years ago last August, I was riding from Fort Larned to Fort Union, + New Mexico, in the overland coach. I had one of my clerks with me; we were + the only passengers, and arrived at Fort Dodge, which was the commencement + of the "long route," at midnight. There we changed drivers, and at the + break of day were some twenty-four miles on our lonely journey. The coach + was rattling along at a breakneck gait, and I saw that something was + evidently wrong. Looking out of one of the doors, I noticed that our Jehu + was in a beastly state of intoxication. It was a most dangerous portion of + the Trail; the Indians were not in the best of humours, and an attack was + not at all improbable before we arrived at the next station, Fort Lyon. + </p> + <p> + I said to my clerk that something must be done; so I ordered the driver to + halt, which he did willingly, got out, and found that, notwithstanding his + drunken mood, he was very affable and disposed to be full of fun. I + suggested that he get inside the coach and lie down to sleep off his + potations, to which he readily assented, while I and my clerk, after + snugly fixing him on the cushions, got on the boot, I taking the lines, he + seizing an old trace-chain, with which he pounded the mules along; for we + felt ourselves in a ticklish predicament should we come across any of the + brigands of the plains, on that lonely route, with the animals to look out + for, and only two of us to do the fighting. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly we saw sitting on the bank of the Arkansas River, about a dozen + rods from the Trail, an antiquated-looking savage with his war-bonnet on, + and armed with a long lance and his bow and arrows. We did not care a cent + for him, but I thought he might be one of the tribe's runners, lying in + wait to discover the condition of the coach—whether it had an + escort, and how many were riding in it, and that then he would go and tell + how ridiculously small the outfit was, and swoop down on us with a band of + his colleagues, that were hidden somewhere in the sand hills south of the + river. He rose as we came near, and made the sign, after he had given vent + to a series of "How's!" that he wanted to talk; but we were not anxious + for any general conversation with his savage majesty just then, so my + clerk applied the trace-chain more vigorously to the tired mules, in order + to get as many miles between him and the coach as we could before he could + get over into the sand hills and back. + </p> + <p> + It was, fortunately, a false alarm; the old warrior perhaps had no + intentions of disturbing us. We arrived at Fort Lyon in good season, with + our valorous driver absolutely sobered, requesting me to say nothing about + his accident, which, of course, I did not. + </p> + <p> + As has been stated, the caravans bound for Santa Fe and the various forts + along the line of the Old Trail did not leave the eastern end of the route + until the grass on the plains, on which the animals depended solely for + subsistence the whole way, grew sufficiently to sustain them, which was + usually about the middle of May. But a great many years ago, one of the + high officials of the quartermaster's department at Washington, who had + never been for a moment on duty on the frontier in his life, found a good + deal of fault with what he thought the dilatoriness of the officer in + charge at Fort Leavenworth, who controlled the question of transportation + for the several forts scattered all over the West, for not getting the + freight caravans started earlier, which the functionary at the capital + said must and should be done. He insisted that they must leave the + Missouri River by the middle of April, a month earlier than usual, and + came out himself to superintend the matter. He made the contracts + accordingly, easily finding contractors that suited him. He then wrote to + headquarters in a triumphant manner that he had revolutionized the whole + system of army transportation of supplies to the military posts. Delighted + with his success, he rode out about the second week of May to Salt Creek, + only three miles from the fort, and, very much to his astonishment, found + his teams, which he had believed to be on the way to Santa Fe a month ago, + snugly encamped. They had "started," just as was agreed. + </p> + <p> + There are, or rather were, hundreds of stories current thirty-five years + ago of stage-coach adventures on the Trail; a volume could be filled with + them, but I must confine myself to a few. + </p> + <p> + John Chisholm was a famous ranchman a long while ago, who had so many + cattle that it was said he did not know their number himself. At one time + he had a large contract to furnish beef to an Indian agency in Arizona; he + had just delivered an immense herd there, and very wisely, after receiving + his cash for them, sent most of it on to Santa Fe in advance of his own + journey. When he arrived there, he started for the Missouri River with a + thousand dollars and sufficient small change to meet his current expenses + on the road. + </p> + <p> + The very first night out from Santa Fe, the coach was halted by a band of + men who had been watching Chisholm's movements from the time he left the + agency in Arizona. The instant the stage came to a standstill, Chisholm + divined what it meant, and had time to thrust a roll of money down one of + the legs of his trousers before the door was thrown back and he was + ordered to fork over what he had. + </p> + <p> + He invited the robbers to search him, and to take what they might find, + but said he was not in a financial condition at that juncture to turn over + much. The thieves found his watch, took that, and then began to search + him. As luck would have it, they entirely missed the roll that was down + his leg, and discovered but a two-dollar bill in his vest. When he told + them it was all he had to buy grub on the road, one of the robbers handed + him a silver dollar, remarking as he did so: "That a man who was mean + enough to travel with only two dollars ought to starve, but he would give + him the dollar just to let him know that he was dealing with gentlemen!" + </p> + <p> + One of the essentials to the comfort of the average soldier is tobacco. He + must have it; he would sooner forego any component part of his ration than + give it up. + </p> + <p> + In November, 1865, a detachment of Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas + Volunteers, and of the Second Colorado were ordered from Fort Larned to + Fort Lyon on a scouting expedition along the line of the Trail, the + savages having been very active in their raids on the freight caravans. + </p> + <p> + In a short time their tobacco began to run low, and as there was no + settlement of any kind between the two military posts, there was no chance + to replenish their stock. One night, while encamped on the Arkansas, the + only piece that was left in the whole command, about half a plug, was + unfortunately lost, and there was dismay in the camp when the fact was + announced. Hours were spent in searching for the missing treasure. The + next morning the march was delayed for some time, while further diligent + search was instituted by all hands, but without result, and the command + set out on its weary tramp, as disconsolate as may well be imagined by + those who are victims to the habit of chewing the weed. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at Fort Lyon, to their greater discomfort it was learned that the + sutler at that post was entirely out of the coveted article, and the + troops began their return journey more disconsolate than ever. Dry leaves, + grass, and even small bits of twigs, were chewed as a substitute, until, + reaching the spot where they had lost the part of a plug, they determined + to remain there that night and begin a more vigorous hunt for the missing + piece. Just before dark their efforts were rewarded; one of the men found + it, and such a scramble occurred for even the smallest nibble at it! + Enormous prices were given for a single chew. It opened at one dollar for + a mere sliver, rose to five, and closed at ten dollars when the last + morsel was left. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. A DESPERATE RIDE. + </h2> + <p> + In the Rocky Mountains and on the great plains along the line of the Old + Trail are many rude and widely separated graves. The sequestered little + valleys, the lonely gulches, and the broad prairies through which the + highway to New Mexico wound its course, hide the bones of hundreds of whom + the world will never have any more knowledge. The number of these + solitary, and almost obliterated mounds is small when compared with the + vast multitude in the cemeteries of our towns, though if the host of those + whose bones are mouldering under the short buffalo-grass and tall + blue-stem of the prairies between the Missouri and the mountains were + tabulated, the list would be appalling. Their aggregate will never be + known; for the once remote region of the mid-continent, like the ocean, + rarely gave up its victims. Lives went out there as goes an expiring + candle, suddenly, swiftly, and silently; no record was kept of time or + place. All those who thus died are graveless and monumentless, the great + circle of the heavens is the dome of their sepulchre, and the recurring + blossoms of springtime their only epitaph. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes the traveller over the Old Trail will suddenly, in the most + unexpected places, come across a little mound, perhaps covered with + stones, under which lie the mouldering bones of some unfortunate + adventurer. Above, now on a rude board, then on a detached rock, or maybe + on the wall of a beetling canyon, he may frequently read, in crude + pencilling or rougher carving, the legend of the dead man's ending. + </p> + <p> + The line of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad, which practically + runs over the Old Trail for nearly its whole length to the mountains, is a + fertile field of isolated graves. The savage and soldier, the teamster and + scout, the solitary trapper or hunter, and many others who have gone down + to their death fighting with the relentless nomad of the plains, or have + been otherwise ruthlessly cut off, mark with their last resting-places + that well-worn pathway across the continent. + </p> + <p> + The tourist, looking from his car-window as he is whirled with the speed + of a tornado toward the snow-capped peaks of the "Great Divide," may see + as he approaches Walnut Creek, three miles east of the town of Great Bend + in Kansas, on the beautiful ranch of Hon. D. Heizer, not far from the + stream, and close to the house, a series of graves, numbering, perhaps, a + score. These have been most religiously cared for by the patriotic + proprietor of the place during all the long years since 1864, as he + believes them to be the last resting-place of soldiers who were once a + portion of the garrison of Fort Zarah, the ruins of which (now a mere hole + in the earth) are but a few hundred yards away, on the opposite side of + the railroad track, plainly visible from the train. + </p> + <p> + The Walnut debouches into the Arkansas a short distance from where the + railroad crosses the creek, and at this point, too, the trail from Fort + Leavenworth merges into the Old Santa Fe. The broad pathway is very easily + recognized here; for it runs over a hard, flinty, low divide, that has + never been disturbed by the plough, and the traveller has only to cast his + eyes in a northeasterly direction in order to see it plainly. + </p> + <p> + The creek is fairly well timbered to-day, as it has been ever since the + first caravan crossed the clear water of the little stream. It was always + a favourite place of ambush by the Indians, and many a conflict has + occurred in the beautiful bottom bounded by a margin of trees on two + sides, between the traders, trappers, troops, and the Indians, and also + between the several tribes that were hereditary enemies, particularly the + Pawnees and the Cheyennes. It is only about sixteen miles east of Pawnee + Rock, and included in that region of debatable ground where no band of + Indians dared establish a permanent village; for it was claimed by all the + tribes, but really owned by none. + </p> + <p> + In 1864 the commerce of the great plains had reached enormous proportions, + and immense caravans rolled day after day toward the blue hills which + guard the portals of New Mexico, and the precious freight constantly + tempted the wily savages to plunder. + </p> + <p> + To protect the caravans on their monotonous route through the "Desert," as + this portion of the plains was then termed, troops were stationed, a mere + handful relatively, at intervals on the Trail, to escort the freighters + and mail coaches over the most exposed and dangerous portions of the way. + </p> + <p> + On the bank of the Walnut, at this time, were stationed three hundred + unassigned recruits of the Third Wisconsin Cavalry, under the command of + Captain Conkey. This point was rightly regarded as one of the most + important on the whole overland route; for near it passed the favourite + highway of the Indians on their yearly migrations north and south, in the + wake of the strange elliptical march of the buffalo far beyond the Platte, + and back to the sunny knolls of the Canadian. + </p> + <p> + This primitive cantonment which grew rapidly in strategical importance, + was two years later made quite formidable defensively, and named Fort + Zarah, in memory of the youngest son of Major General Curtis, who was + killed by guerillas somewhere south of Fort Scott, Kansas, while escorting + General James G. Blunt, of frontier fame during the Civil War. + </p> + <p> + Captain Henry Booth, during the year above mentioned, was chief of cavalry + and inspecting officer of the military district of the Upper Arkansas, the + western geographical limits of which extended to the foot-hills of the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + One day he received an order from the head-quarters of the department to + make a special inspection of all the outposts on the Santa Fe Trail. He + was stationed at Fort Riley at the time, and the evening the order + arrived, active preparations were immediately commenced for his extended + and hazardous trip across the plains. Lieutenant Hallowell, of the Ninth + Wisconsin Battery, was to accompany him, and both officers went at once to + their quarters, took down from the walls, where they had been hanging idly + for weeks, their rifles and pistols, and carefully examined and brushed + them up for possible service in the dreary Arkansas bottom. Camp-kettles, + until late in the night, sizzled and sputtered over crackling log-fires; + for their proposed ride beyond the settlements demanded cooked rations for + many a weary day. All the preliminaries arranged, the question of the + means of transportation was determined, and, curiously enough, it saved + the lives of the two officers in the terrible gauntlet they were destined + to run. + </p> + <p> + Hallowell was a famous whip, and prided himself upon the exceptionally + fine turnout which he daily drove among the picturesque hills around the + fort. + </p> + <p> + "Booth," said he in the evening, "let's not take a great lumbering + ambulance on this trip; if you will get a good way-up team of mules from + the quartermaster, we'll use my light rig, and we'll do our own driving." + </p> + <p> + To this proposition Booth readily assented, procured the mules, and, as it + turned out, they were a "good way-up team." + </p> + <p> + Hallowell had a set of bows fitted to his light wagon, over which was + thrown an army-wagon-sheet, drawn up behind with a cord, similar to those + of the ordinary emigrant outfit to be seen daily on the roads of the + Western prairies. A round hole was necessarily left in the rear end, + serving the purpose of a lookout. + </p> + <p> + Two grip-sacks, containing their dress uniforms, a box of crackers and + cheese, meat and sardines, together with a bottle of anti-snake bite, made + up the principal freight for the long journey, and in the clear cold of + the early morning they rolled out of the gates of the fort, escorted by + Company L, of the Eleventh Kansas, commanded by Lieutenant Van Antwerp. + </p> + <p> + The company of one hundred mounted men acting as escort was too formidable + a number for the Indians, and not a sign of one was seen as the dangerous + flats of Plum Creek and the rolling country beyond were successively + passed, and early in the afternoon the cantonment on Walnut Creek was + reached. At this important outpost Captain Conkey's command was living in + a rude but comfortable sort of a way, in the simplest of dugouts, + constructed along the right bank of the stream; the officers, a little + more in accordance with military dignity, in tents a few rods in rear of + the line of huts. + </p> + <p> + A stockade stable had been built, with a capacity for two hundred and + fifty horses, and sufficient hay had been put up by the men in the fall to + carry the animals through the winter. + </p> + <p> + Captain Conkey was a brusque but kind-hearted man, and with him were + stationed other officers, one of whom was a son of Admiral Goldsborough. + The morning after the arrival of the inspecting officers a rigid + examination of all the appointments and belongings of the place was made, + and, as an immense amount of property had accumulated for condemnation, + when evening came the books and papers were still untouched; so that + branch of the inspection had to be postponed until the next morning. + </p> + <p> + After dark, while sitting around the camp-fire, discussing the war, + telling stories, etc., Captain Conkey said to Booth: "Captain, it won't + require more than half an hour in the morning to inspect the papers and + finish up what you have to do; why don't you start your escort out very + early, so it won't be obliged to trot after the ambulance, or you to poke + along with it? You can then move out briskly and make time." + </p> + <p> + Booth, acting upon what he thought at the time an excellent suggestion, in + a few moments went over the creek to Lieutenant Van Antwerp's camp, to + tell him that he need not wait for the wagon in the morning, but to start + out early, at half-past six, in advance. + </p> + <p> + According to instructions, the escort marched out of camp at daylight next + morning, while Booth and Hallowell remained to finish their inspection. It + was soon discovered, however, that either Captain Conkey had underrated + the amount of work to be done, or misjudged the inspecting officers' + ability to complete it in a certain time; so almost three hours elapsed + after the cavalry had departed before the task ended. + </p> + <p> + At last everything was closed up, much to Hallowell's satisfaction, who + had been chafing under the vexatious delay ever since the escort left. + When all was in readiness, the little wagon drawn up in front of the + commanding officer's quarters, and farewells said, Hallowell suggested to + Booth the propriety of taking a few of the troops stationed there to go + with them until they overtook their own escort, which must now be several + miles on the Trail to Fort Larned. Booth asked Captain Conkey what he + thought of Hallowell's suggestion. Captain Conkey replied: "Oh! there's + not the slightest danger; there hasn't been an Indian seen around here for + over ten days." + </p> + <p> + If either Booth or Hallowell had been as well acquainted with the methods + and character of the plains Indians then as they afterward became, they + would have insisted upon an escort; but both were satisfied that Captain + Conkey knew what he was talking about, so they concluded to push on. + </p> + <p> + Jumping into their wagon, Lieutenant Hallowell took the reins and away + they went rattling over the old log bridge that used to span the Walnut at + the crossing of the Old Santa Fe Trail, as light of heart as if riding to + a dance. + </p> + <p> + The morning was bright and clear with a stiff breeze blowing from the + northwest, and the Trail was frozen hard in places, which made it very + rough, as it had been cut up by the travel of the heavily laden caravans + when it was wet. Booth sat on the left side of Hallowell with the whip in + his hand, now and then striking the mules, to keep up their speed. + Hallowell started up a tune—he was a good singer—and Booth + joined in as they rolled along, as oblivious of any danger as though they + were in their quarters at Fort Riley. + </p> + <p> + After they had proceeded some distance, Hallowell remarked to Booth: "The + buffalo are grazing a long way from the road to-day; a circumstance that I + think bodes no good." He had been on the plains the summer before, and was + better acquainted with the Indians and their peculiarities than Captain + Booth; but the latter replied that he thought it was because their escort + had gone on ahead, and had probably frightened them off. + </p> + <p> + The next mile or two was passed, and still they saw no buffalo between the + Trail and the Arkansas, though nothing more was said by either regarding + the suspicious circumstance, and they rode rapidly on. + </p> + <p> + When they had gone about five or six miles from the Walnut, Booth, + happening to glance toward the river, saw something that looked strangely + like a flock of turkeys. He watched them intently for a moment, when the + objects rose up and he discovered they were horsemen. He grasped Hallowell + by the arm, directing his attention to them, and said, "What are they?" + Hallowell gave a hasty look toward the point indicated, and replied, + "Indians! by George!" and immediately turning the mules around on the + Trail, started them back toward the cantonment on the Walnut at a full + gallop.<a href="#linknote-68" name="linknoteref-68" id="linknoteref-68"><small>68</small></a> + </p> + <p> + "Hold on!" said Booth to Hallowell when he understood the latter's + movement; "maybe it's part of our escort." + </p> + <p> + "No! no!" replied Hallowell. "I know they are Indians; I've seen too many + of them to be mistaken." + </p> + <p> + "Well," rejoined Booth, "I'm going to know for certain"; so, stepping out + on the foot-board, and with one hand holding on to the front bow, he + looked back over the top of the wagon-sheet. They were Indians, sure + enough; they had fully emerged from the ravine in which they had hidden, + and while he was looking at them they were slipping off their buffalo + robes from their shoulders, taking arrows out of their quivers, drawing up + their spears, and making ready generally for a red-hot time. + </p> + <p> + While Booth was intently regarding the movements of the savages, Hallowell + inquired of him: "They're Indians, aren't they, Booth?" + </p> + <p> + "Yes," was Booth's answer, "and they're coming down on us like a + whirlwind." + </p> + <p> + "Then I shall never see poor Lizzie again!" said Hallowell. He had been + married only a few weeks before starting out on this trip, and his young + wife's name came to his lips. + </p> + <p> + "Never mind Lizzie," responded Booth; "let's get out of here!" He was as + badly frightened as Hallowell, but had no bride at Riley, and, as he tells + it, "was selfishly thinking of himself only, and escape." + </p> + <p> + In answer to Booth's remark, Hallowell, in a firm, clear voice, said: "All + right! You do the shooting, and I'll do the driving," and suiting the + action to the words, he snatched the whip out of Booth's hand, slipped + from the seat to the front of the wagon, and commenced lashing the mules + furiously. + </p> + <p> + Booth then crawled back, pulled out one of his revolvers, crept, or rather + fell, over the "lazy-back" of the seat, and reaching the hole made by + puckering the wagon-sheet, looked out of it, and counted the Indians; + thirty-four feather-bedecked, paint-bedaubed savages, as vicious a set as + ever scalped a white man, swooping down on them like a hawk upon a + chicken. + </p> + <p> + Hallowell, between his yells at the mules, cried out, "How far are they + off now, Booth?" for of course he could see nothing of what was going on + in his rear. + </p> + <p> + Booth replied as well as he could judge of the distance, while Hallowell + renewed his yelling at the animals and redoubled his efforts with the + lash. + </p> + <p> + Noiselessly the Indians gained on the little wagon, for they had not as + yet uttered a whoop, and the determined driver, anxious to know how far + the red devils were from him, again asked Booth. The latter told him how + near they were, guessing at the distance, from which Hallowell gathered + inspiration for fresh cries and still more vigorous blows with his whip. + </p> + <p> + Booth, all this time, was sitting on the box containing the crackers and + sardines, watching the rapid approach of the cut-throats, and seeing with + fear and trembling the ease with which they gained upon the little mules. + </p> + <p> + Once more Hallowell made his stereotyped inquiry of Booth; but before the + latter could reply, two shots were fired from the rifles of the Indians, + accompanied by a yell that was demoniacal enough to cause the blood to + curdle in one's veins. Hallowell yelled at the mules, and Booth yelled + too; for what reason he could not tell, unless to keep company with his + comrade, who plied the whip more mercilessly than ever upon the poor + animals' backs, and the wagon flew over the rough road, nearly upsetting + at every jump. + </p> + <p> + In another moment the bullets from two of the Indians' rifles passed + between Booth and Hallowell, doing no damage, and almost instantly the + savages charged upon them, at the same time dividing into two parties, one + going on one side and one on the other, both delivering a volley of arrows + into the wagon as they rode by. + </p> + <p> + Just as the savages rushed past the wagon, Hallowell cried out to Booth, + "Cap, I'm hit!" and turning around to look, Booth saw an arrow sticking in + Hallowell's head above his right ear. His arm was still plying the whip, + which was going on unceasingly as the sails of a windmill, and his howling + at the mules only stopped long enough to answer, "Not much!" in response + to Booth's inquiry of "Does it hurt?" as he grabbed the arrow and pulled + it out of his head. + </p> + <p> + The Indians had by this time passed on, and then, circling back, prepared + for another charge. Down they came, again dividing as before into two + bands, and delivering another shower of arrows. Hallowell ceased his + yelling long enough to cry out, "I'm hit once more, Cap!" Looking at the + plucky driver, Booth saw this time an arrow sticking over his left ear, + and hanging down his back. He snatched it out, inquiring if it hurt, but + received the same answer: "No, not much." + </p> + <p> + Both men were now yelling at the top of their voices; and the mules were + jerking the wagon along the rough trail at a fearful rate, frightened + nearly out of their wits at the sight of the Indians and the terrible + shouting and whipping of the driver. + </p> + <p> + Booth crawled to the back end of the wagon again, looked out of the hole + in the cover, and saw the Indians moving across the Trail, preparing for + another charge. One old fellow, mounted on a black pony, was jogging along + in the centre of the road behind them, but near enough and evidently + determined to send an arrow through the puckered hole of the sheet. In a + moment the savage stopped his pony and let fly. Booth dodged sideways—the + arrow sped on its course, and whizzing through the opening, struck the + black-walnut "lazy-back" of the seat, the head sticking out on the other + side, and the sudden check causing the feathered end to vibrate rapidly + with a vro-o-o-ing sound. With a quick blow Booth struck it, and broke the + shaft from the head, leaving the latter embedded in the wood. + </p> + <p> + As quickly as possible, Booth rushed to the hole and fired his revolver at + the old devil, but failed to hit him. While he was trying to get in + another shot, an arrow came flying through from the left side of the + Trail, and striking him on the inside of the elbow, or "crazy-bone," so + completely benumbed his hand that he could not hold on to the pistol, and + it dropped into the road with one load still in its chamber. Just then the + mules gave an extraordinary jump to one side, which jerked the wagon + nearly from under him, and he fell sprawling on the end-gate, evenly + balanced, with his hands on the outside, attempting to clutch at something + to save himself! Seeing his predicament, the Indians thought they had him + sure, so they gave a yell of exultation, supposing he must tumble out, but + he didn't; he fortunately succeeded in grabbing one of the wagon-bows with + his right hand and pulled himself in; but it was a close call. + </p> + <p> + While all this was going on, Hallowell had not been neglected by the + Indians; about a dozen of them had devoted their time to him, but he never + flinched. Just as Booth had regained his equilibrium and drawn his second + revolver from its holster, Hallowell yelled to him: "Right off to your + right, Cap, quick!" + </p> + <p> + Booth tumbled over the back of the seat, and, clutching at a wagon-bow to + steady himself, he saw, "off to the right," an Indian who was in the act + of letting an arrow drive at Hallowell; it struck the side of the box, and + at the same instant Booth fired, scaring the red devil badly. + </p> + <p> + Back over the seat again he rushed to guard the rear, only to find a young + buck riding close to the side of the wagon, his pony running in the deep + path made by the ox-drivers in walking alongside of their teams. Putting + his left arm around one of the wagon-bows to prevent his being jerked out, + Booth quietly stuck his revolver through the hole in the sheet; but before + he could pull the trigger, the Indian flopped over on the off side of his + pony, and nothing could be seen of him excepting one arm around his + animal's neck and from the knee to the toes of one leg. Booth did not wait + for him to ride up; he could almost hit the pony's head with his hand, so + close was he to the wagon. Booth struck at the beast several times, but + the Indian kept him right up in his place by whipping him on the opposite + of his neck. Presently the plucky savage's arm began to move. Booth + watched him intently, and saw that he had fixed an arrow in his bow under + the pony's shoulder; just as he was on the point of letting go the + bowstring, with the head of the arrow not three feet from Booth's breast + as he leaned out of the hole, the latter struck frantically at the weapon, + dodged back into the wagon, and up came the Indian. Whenever Booth looked + out, down went the Indian on the other side of his pony, to rise again in + a moment, and Booth, afraid to risk himself with his head and breast + exposed at this game of hide and seek, drew suddenly back as the Indian + went down the third time, and in a second came up; but this was once too + often. Booth had not dodged completely into the wagon, nor dropped his + revolver, and as the Indian rose he fired. + </p> + <p> + The savage was naked to the waist; the ball struck him in the left nipple, + the blood spirted out of the wound, his bow and arrows and lariat, with + himself, rolled off the pony, falling heavily on the ground, and with one + convulsive contraction of his legs and an "Ugh!" he was as dead as a + stone. + </p> + <p> + "I've killed one of 'em!" called out Booth to Hallowell, as he saw his + victim tumble from his pony. + </p> + <p> + "Bully for you, Cap!" came Hallowell's response as he continued his + shouting, and the blows of that tireless whip fell incessantly on the + backs of the poor mules. + </p> + <p> + After he had killed the warrior, Booth kept his seat on the cracker box, + watching to see what the Indians were going to do next, when he was + suddenly interrupted by Hallowell's crying out to him: "Off to the right + again, Cap, quick!" and, whirling around instantly, he saw an Indian + within three feet of the wagon, with his bow and arrow almost ready to + shoot; there was no time to get over the seat, and as he could not fire so + close to Hallowell, he cried to the latter: "Hit him with the whip! Hit + him with the whip!" The lieutenant diverted one of the blows intended for + the mules, and struck the savage fairly across the face. The whip had a + knot in the end of it to prevent its unravelling, and this knot must have + hit the Indian squarely in the eye; for he dropped his bow, put both hands + up to his face, rubbed his eyes, and digging his heels into his pony's + sides was soon out of range of a revolver; but, nevertheless, he was given + a parting shot as a sort of salute. + </p> + <p> + A terrific yell from the rear at this moment caused both Booth and + Hallowell to look around, and the latter to inquire: "What's the matter + now, Booth?" "They are coming down on us like lightning," said he; and, + sure enough, those who had been prancing around their dead comrade were + tearing along the Trail toward the wagon with a more hideous noise than + when they began. + </p> + <p> + Hallowell yelled louder than ever and lashed the mules more furiously + still, but the Indians gained upon them as easily as a blooded racer on a + common farm plug. Separating as before, and passing on each side of the + wagon, they delivered another volley of bullets and arrows as they rushed + on. + </p> + <p> + When this charge was made, Booth drew away from the hole in the rear and + turned toward the Indians, but forgot that as he was sitting, with his + back pressed against the sheet, his body was plainly outlined on the + canvas. + </p> + <p> + When the Indians dashed by Hallowell cried out, "I'm hit again, Cap!" and + Booth, in turning around to go to his relief, felt something pulling at + him; and glancing over his left shoulder he discovered an arrow sticking + into him and out through the wagon-sheet. With a jerk of his body, he tore + himself loose, and going to Hallowell, asked him where he was hit. "In the + back," was the reply; where Booth saw an arrow extending under the + "lazy-back" of the seat. Taking hold of it, Booth gave a pull, but + Hallowell squirmed so that he desisted. "Pull it out!" cried the plucky + driver. Booth thereupon took hold of it again, and giving a jerk or two, + out it came. He was thoroughly frightened as he saw it leave the + lieutenant's body; it seemed to have entered at least six inches, and the + wound appeared to be a dangerous one. Hallowell, however, did not cease + for a moment belabouring the mules, and his yells rang out as clear and + defiant as before. + </p> + <p> + After extracting the arrow from Hallowell's back, Booth turned again to + the opening in the rear of the wagon to see what new tricks the devils + were up to, when Hallowell again called out, "Off to the left, Cap, + quick!" + </p> + <p> + Rushing to the front as soon as possible, Booth saw one of the savages in + the very act of shooting at Hallowell from the left side of the wagon, not + ten feet away. The last revolver was empty, but something had to be done + at once; so, levelling the weapon at him, Booth shouted "Bang! you + son-of-a-gun!" Down the Indian ducked his head; rap, rap, went his knees + against his pony's sides, and away he flew over the prairie! + </p> + <p> + Back to his old place in the rear tumbled Booth, to load his revolver. The + cartridges they used in the army in those days were the old-fashioned kind + made of paper. Biting off one end, he endeavoured to pour the powder into + the chamber of the pistol; but as the wagon was tumbling from side to + side, and jumping up and down, as it fairly flew over the rough Trail, + more fell into the bottom of the wagon than into the revolver. Just as he + was inserting a ball, Hallowell yelled, "To the left, Cap, quick!" + </p> + <p> + Over the seat Booth piled once more, and there was another Indian with his + bow and arrow all ready to pinion the brave lieutenant. Pointing his + revolver at him, Booth yelled as he had at the other, but this savage had + evidently noticed the first failure, and concluded there were no more + loads left; so, instead of taking a hasty departure, he grinned + demoniacally and endeavoured to fix the arrow in his bow. Booth rose up in + the wagon, and grasping hold of one of its bows with his left hand, seized + the revolver by the muzzle, and with all the force he could muster hurled + it at the impudent brute. It was a Remington, its barrel octagon-shaped, + with sharp corners, and when it was thrown, it turned in the air, and + striking the Indian muzzle-first on the ribs, cut a long gash. + </p> + <p> + "Ugh!" he grunted, as, dropping his bow and spear, he flung himself over + the side of his pony, and away he went across the prairie. + </p> + <p> + Only one revolver remaining now, and that empty, with the savages still + howling around the apparently doomed men like so many demons! Booth fell + over the seat, as was his usual fate whenever he attempted to get to the + back of the wagon, picked up the empty revolver, and tried to load it; but + before he could bite the end of a cartridge, Hallowell yelled, + </p> + <p> + "Cap, I'm hit again!" + </p> + <p> + "Where this time?" inquired Booth, anxiously. "In the hand," replied + Hallowell; and, looking around, Booth noticed that although his right arm + was still thrashing at the now lagging mules with as much energy as ever, + through the fleshy part of the thumb was an arrow, which was flopping up + and down as he raised and lowered his hand in ceaseless efforts to keep up + the speed of the almost exhausted animals. + </p> + <p> + "Let me pull it out," said Booth, as he came forward to do so. + </p> + <p> + "No, never mind," replied Hallowell; "can't stop! can't stop!" and up and + down went the arm, and flip, flap, went the arrow with it, until finally + it tore through the flesh and fell to the ground. + </p> + <p> + Along they bowled, the Indians yelling, and the occupants of the little + wagon defiantly answering them, while Booth continued to struggle + desperately with that empty pistol, in his vain efforts to load it. In + another moment Hallowell shouted, "Booth, they are trying to crowd the + mules into the sunflowers!" + </p> + <p> + Alongside of the Trail huge sunflowers had grown the previous summer, and + now their dry stalks stood as thick as a cane-brake; if the wagon once got + among them, it would be impossible for the mules to keep up their gallop. + The savages seemed to realize this; for one huge old fellow kept riding + alongside the off mule, throwing his spear at him and then jerking it back + with the thong, one end of which was fastened to his wrist. The near mule + was constantly pushed further and further from the Trail by his mate, + which was jumping frantically, scared out of his senses by the Indian. + </p> + <p> + At this perilous juncture, Booth stepped out on the foot-board of the + wagon, and, holding on by a bow, commenced to kick the frightened mule + vigorously, while Hallowell pulled on one line, whipping and yelling at + the same time; so together they succeeded in forcing the animals back into + the Trail. + </p> + <p> + The Indians kept close to the mules in their efforts to force them into + the sunflowers, and Booth made several attempts to scare the old fellow + that was nearest by pointing his empty revolver at him, but he would not + scare; so in his desperation Booth threw it at him. He missed the old + brute, but hit his pony just behind its rider's leg, which started the + animal into a sort of a stampede; his ugly master could not control him, + and thus the immediate peril from the persistent cuss was delayed. + </p> + <p> + Now the pair were absolutely without firearms of any kind, with nothing + left except their sabres and valises, and the savages came closer and + closer. In turn the two swords were thrown at them as they came almost + within striking distance; then followed the scabbards, as the howling + fiends surrounded the wagon and attempted to spear the mules. Fortunately + their arrows were exhausted. + </p> + <p> + The cantonment on the Walnut was still a mile and a half away, and there + was nothing for our luckless travellers to do but whip and kick, both of + which they did most vigorously. Hallowell sat as immovable as the Sphinx, + excepting his right arm, which from the moment they had started on the + back trail had not once ceased its incessant motion. + </p> + <p> + Happening to cast his eyes back on the Trail, Booth saw to his dismay + twelve or fifteen of the savages coming up on the run with fresh energy, + their spears poised ready for action, and he felt that something must be + done very speedily to divert them; for if these added their number to + those already surrounding the wagon, the chances were they would succeed + in forcing the mules into the sunflowers, and his scalp and Hallowell's + would dangle at the belt of the leader. + </p> + <p> + Glancing around in the bottom of the wagon for some kind of weapon, his + eye fell on the two valises containing the dress-suits. He snatched up his + own, and threw it out while the pursuers were yet five or six rods in the + rear. The Indians noticed this new trick with a great yell of + satisfaction, and the moment they arrived at the spot where the valise + lay, all dismounted; one of them, seizing it by the two handles, pulled + with all his strength to open it, and when he failed, another drew a long + knife from under his blanket and ripped it apart. He then put his hand in, + pulling out a sash, which he began to wind around his head, like a negress + with a bandanna, letting the tassels hang down his back. While he was thus + amusing himself, one of the others had taken out a dress-coat, a third a + pair of drawers, and still another a shirt, which they proceeded to put + on, meanwhile dancing around and howling. + </p> + <p> + Booth told Hallowell of the sacrifice of the valise, and said, "I'm going + to throw out yours." "All right," replied Hallowell; "all we want is + time." So out it went on the Trail, and shared the same fate as the other. + </p> + <p> + The lull in hostilities caused by their outstripping their pursuers gave + the almost despairing men time to talk over their situation. Hallowell + said he did not propose to be captured and then butchered or burned at the + pleasure of the Indians. He said to Booth: "If they kill one of the mules, + and so stop us, let's kick, strike, throw dirt or anything, and compel + them to kill us on the spot." So it was agreed, if the worst came to the + worst, to stand back to back and fight. + </p> + <p> + During this discussion the arm of Hallowell still plied the effective + lash, and they drew perceptibly nearer the camp, and as they caught the + first glimpse of its tents and dugouts, hope sprang up within them. The + mules were panting like a hound after a deer; wherever the harness touched + them, it was white with lather, and it was evident they could keep on + their feet but a short time longer. Would they hold out until the bridge + was reached? The whipping and the kicking had but little effect on them + now. They still continued their gallop, but it was slower and more + laboured than before. + </p> + <p> + The Indians who had torn open the valises had not returned to the chase, + and although there were still a sufficient number of the fiends pursuing + to make it interesting, they did not succeed in spearing the mules, as at + every attempt the plucky animals would jump sideways or forward and evade + the impending blow. + </p> + <p> + The little log bridge was reached; the savages had all retreated, but the + valorous Hallowell kept the mules at their fastest pace. The bridge was + constructed of half-round logs, and of course was extremely rough; the + wagon bounded up and down enough to shake the teeth out of one's head as + the little animals went flying over it. Booth called out to Hallowell, "No + need to drive so fast now, the Indians have all left us"; but he replied, + "I ain't going to stop until I get across"; and down came the whip, on + sped the mules, not breaking their short gallop until they were pulled up + in front of Captain Conkey's quarters. + </p> + <p> + The rattling of the wagon on the bridge was the first intimation the + garrison had of its return. + </p> + <p> + The officers came running out of their tents, the enlisted men poured out + of their dugouts like a lot of ants, and Booth and Hallowell were + surrounded by their friends in a moment. Captain Conkey ordered his bugler + to sound "Boots and Saddles," and in less than ten minutes ninety troopers + were mounted, and with the captain at their head started after the + Indians. + </p> + <p> + When Hallowell tried to rise from his seat so as to get out every effort + only resulted in his falling back. Some one stepped around to the other + side to assist him, when it was discovered that the skirt of his overcoat + had worked outside of the wagon-sheet and hung over the edge, and that + three or four of the arrows fired at him by the savages had struck the + side of the wagon, and, passing through the flap of his coat, had pinned + him down. Booth pulled the arrows out and helped him up; he was pretty + stiff from sitting in his cramped position so long, and his right arm + dropped by his side as if paralysed. + </p> + <p> + Booth stood looking on while his comrade's wounds were being dressed, when + the adjutant asked him: "What makes you shrug your shoulder so?" He + answered, "I don't know; something makes it smart." The officer looked at + him and said, "Well, I don't wonder; I should think it would smart; here's + an arrow-head sticking into you," and he tried to pull it out, but it + would not come. Captain Goldsborough then attempted it, but was not any + more successful. The doctor then told them to let it alone, and he would + attend to Booth after he had done with Hallowell. When he examined Booth's + shoulder, he found that the arrow-head had struck the thick portion of the + shoulder-blade, and had made two complete turns, wrapping itself around + the muscles, which had to be cut apart before the sharp point could be + withdrawn. + </p> + <p> + Booth was not seriously hurt. Hallowell, however, had received two severe + wounds; the arrow that had lodged in his back had penetrated almost to his + kidneys, and the wound in his thumb was very painful, not so much from the + simple impact of the arrow as from the tearing away of the muscle by the + shaft while he was whipping his mules; his right arm, too, was swollen + terribly, and so stiff from the incessant use of it during the drive that + for more than a month he required assistance in dressing and undressing. + </p> + <p> + The mules who had saved their lives were of small account after their + memorable trip; they remained stiff and sore from the rough road and their + continued forced speed. Booth and Hallowell went out to look at them the + next morning, as they hobbled around the corral, and from the bottom of + their hearts wished them well. + </p> + <p> + Captain Conkey's command returned to the cantonment about midnight. But + one Indian had been seen, and he was south of the Arkansas in the sand + hills. + </p> + <p> + The next morning a scouting-party of forty men, under command of a + sergeant, started out to scour the country toward Cow Creek, northeast + from the Walnut. + </p> + <p> + As I have stated, the troopers stationed at the cantonment on the Walnut + were mostly recruits. Now the cavalry recruit of the old regular army on + the frontier, thirty or forty years ago, mounted on a great big American + horse and sent out with well-trained comrades on a scout after the hostile + savages of the plains, was the most helpless individual imaginable. Coming + fresh from some large city probably, as soon as he arrived at his station + he was placed on the back of an animal of whose habits he knew as little + as he did of the differential calculus; loaded down with a carbine, the + muzzle of which he could hardly distinguish from the breech; a sabre + buckled around his waist; a couple of enormous pistols stuck in his + holsters; his blankets strapped to the cantle of his saddle, and, to + complete the hopelessness of his condition in a possible encounter with a + savage enemy who was ever on the alert, he was often handicapped by a + camp-kettle or two, a frying-pan, and ten days' rations. No wonder this + doughty representative of Uncle Sam's power was an easy prey for "Poor + Lo," who, when he caught the unfortunate soldier away from his command and + started after him, must have laughed at the ridiculous appearance of his + enemy, with both hands glued to the pommel of his saddle, his hair on end, + his sabre flying and striking his horse at every jump as the animal tore + down the trail toward camp, while the Indian, rapidly gaining, in a few + minutes had the scalp of the hapless rider dangling at his belt, and + another of the "boys in blue" had joined the majority. + </p> + <p> + The scouting-party had proceeded about four or five miles, when one of the + corporals asked permission for himself and a recruit to go over to the + Upper Walnut to find out whether they could discover any signs of Indians. + </p> + <p> + While they were carelessly riding along the big curve which the northern + branch of the Walnut makes at that point, there suddenly sprang from their + ambush in the timber on the margin of the stream about three hundred + Indians, whooping and yelling. The two troopers of course, immediately + whirled their horses and started down the creek toward the camp, hotly + pursued by the howling savages. + </p> + <p> + The corporal was an excellent rider; a well-trained and disciplined + soldier, having seen much service on the plains. He led in the flight, + closely followed by the unfortunate recruit, who had been enlisted but a + short time. Not more than an eighth of a mile had been covered, when the + corporal heard his companion exclaim,— + </p> + <p> + "Don't leave me! Don't leave me!" + </p> + <p> + Looking back, the corporal saw that the poor recruit was losing ground + rapidly; his horse was rearing and plunging, making very little headway, + while his rider was jerking and pulling on the bit, a curb of the severest + kind. Perceiving the strait his comrade was in, the corporal reined up for + a moment and called out,— + </p> + <p> + "Let him go! Let him go! Don't jerk on the bit so!" + </p> + <p> + The Indians were gaining ground rapidly, and in another moment the + corporal heard the recruit again cry out,— + </p> + <p> + "Oh! Don't—" + </p> + <p> + Realizing that it would be fatal to delay, and that he could be of no + assistance to his companion, already killed and scalped, he leaned forward + on his horse, and sinking his spurs deep in the animal's flanks fairly + flew down the valley, with the three hundred savages close in his wake. + </p> + <p> + The officers at the camp were sitting in their tents when the sentinel on + post No. 1 fired his piece, upon which all rushed out to learn the cause + of the alarm; for there was no random shooting in those days allowed + around camp or in garrison. Looking up the valley of the Walnut, they + could see the lucky corporal, with his long hair streaming in the wind, + and his heels rapping his horse's sides, as he dashed over the brown sod + of the winter prairie. + </p> + <p> + The corporal now slackened his pace, rode up to the commanding officer's + tent, reported the affair, and then was allowed to go to his own quarters + for the rest he so much needed. + </p> + <p> + Captain Conkey immediately ordered a mounted squad, accompanied by an + ambulance, to go up the creek to recover the body of the unfortunate + recruit. The party were absent a little over an hour, and brought back + with them the remains of the dead soldier. He had been shot with an arrow, + the point of which was still sticking out through his breast-bone. His + scalp had been torn completely off, and the lapels of his coat and the + legs of his trousers carried away by the savages. He was buried the next + morning with military honours, in the little graveyard on the bank of the + Walnut, where his body still rests in the dooryard of the ranch. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. HANCOCK'S EXPEDITION. + </h2> + <p> + In the spring of 1867, General Hancock, who then commanded the military + division of the Missouri, with headquarters at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, + organized an expedition against the Indians of the great plains, which he + led in person. With him was General Custer, second ranking officer, from + whom I quote the story of the march and some of the incidents of the raid. + </p> + <p> + General Hancock, with the artillery and six companies of infantry, arrived + at Fort Riley, Kansas, the last week in March, where he was joined by four + companies of the Seventh Cavalry, commanded by the intrepid Custer. + </p> + <p> + From Fort Riley the expedition marched to Fort Harker, seventy-two miles + farther west, on the Smoky Hill, where the force was increased by the + addition of two more troops of cavalry. Remaining there only long enough + to replenish their commissary supplies, the march was directed to Fort + Larned on the Old Santa Fe Trail. On the 7th of April the command reached + the latter post, accompanied by the agent of the Comanches and Kiowas; at + the fort the agent of the Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Apaches was waiting + for the arrival of the general. The agent of the three last-mentioned + tribes had already sent runners to the head chiefs, inviting them to a + grand council which was to assemble near the fort on the 10th of the + month, and he requested General Hancock to remain at the fort with his + command until that date. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of April a terrible snow-storm came on while the troops were + encamped waiting for the head men of the various tribes to arrive. Custer + says: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + It was our good fortune to be in camp rather than on the + march; had it been otherwise, we could not well have escaped + without loss of life. The cavalry horses suffered severely, + and were only preserved by doubling their rations of oats, + while to prevent their being frozen during the intensely + cold night which followed, the guards were instructed to + pass along the picket lines with a whip, and keep the + horses moving constantly. The snow was eight inches deep. + The council, which was to take place the next day, had to be + postponed until the return of good weather. Now began the + display of a kind of diplomacy for which the Indian is + peculiar. The Cheyennes and a band of Sioux were encamped + on Pawnee Fork, about thirty miles above Fort Larned. + They neither desired to move nearer to us or have us + approach nearer to them. On the morning of the 11th, + they sent us word that they had started to visit us, but, + discovering a large herd of buffalo near their camp, + they had stopped to procure a supply of meat. This message + was not received with much confidence, nor was a buffalo + hunt deemed of sufficient importance to justify the Indians + in breaking their engagement. General Hancock decided, + however, to delay another day, when, if the Indians still + failed to come in, he would move his command to the vicinity + of their village and hold the conference there. + + Orders were issued on the evening of the 12th for the march + to be resumed on the following day. Late in the evening + two chiefs of the "Dog-Soldiers," a band composed of the + most warlike and troublesome Indians on the plains, + chiefly made up of Cheyennes, visited our camp. They were + accompanied by a dozen warriors, and expressed a desire to + hold a conference with General Hancock, to which he assented. + A large council-fire was built in front of the general's + tent, and all the officers of his command assembled there. + A tent had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs + a short distance from the general's. Before they could + feel equal to the occasion, and in order to obtain time to + collect their thoughts, they desired that supper might be + prepared for them, which was done. When finally ready, + they advanced from their tent to the council-fire in single + file, accompanied by their agent and an interpreter. + Arrived at the fire, another brief delay ensued. No matter + how pressing or momentous the occasion, an Indian invariably + declines to engage in a council until he has filled his pipe + and gone through with the important ceremony of a smoke. + This attended to, the chiefs announced that they were ready + "to talk." They were then introduced to the principal + officers of the group, and seemed much struck with the + flashy uniforms of the few artillery officers, who were + present in all the glory of red horsehair plumes, + aiguillettes, etc. The chiefs seemed puzzled to determine + whether these insignia designated chieftains or medicine men. + General Hancock began the conference by a speech, in which + he explained to the Indians his purpose in coming to see + them, and what he expected of them in the future. + He particularly informed them that he was not there to make + war, but to promote peace. Then, expressing his regrets + that more of the chiefs had not visited him, he announced + his intention of proceeding on the morrow with his command + to the vicinity of their village, and there holding a + council with all the chiefs. Tall Bull, a fine, warlike-looking + chieftain, replied to General Hancock, but his speech + contained nothing important, being made up of allusions to + the growing scarcity of the buffalo, his love for the white + man, and the usual hint that a donation in the way of + refreshments would be highly acceptable; he added that he + would have nothing new to say at the village. + + Rightly concluding that the Indians did not intend to come + to our camp, as they had at first agreed to, it was decided + to move nearer their village. On the morning following the + conference our entire force, therefore, marched from + Fort Larned up Pawnee Fork in the direction of the main + village, encamping the first night about twenty-one miles + from Larned. Several parties of Indians were seen in our + advance during the day, evidently watching our movements, + while a heavy smoke, seen to rise in the direction of the + Indian village, indicated that something more than usual + was going on. The smoke, we afterward learned, arose from + burning grass. The Indians, thinking to prevent us from + encamping in their vicinity, had set fire to and burned all + the grass for miles in the direction from which they + expected us. Before we arrived at our camping-ground, + we were met by several chiefs and warriors belonging to the + Cheyennes and Sioux. Among the chiefs were Pawnee Killer, + of the Sioux, and White Horse, of the Cheyennes. It was + arranged that these chiefs should accept our hospitality + and remain with us during the night, and in the morning all + the chiefs of the two tribes then in the village were to + come to General Hancock's head-quarters and hold a council. + On the morning of the 14th, Pawnee Killer left our camp at + an early hour, as he said for the purpose of going to the + village to bring in the other chiefs to the council. + Nine o'clock had been agreed upon as the time at which the + council should assemble. The hour came, but the chiefs + did not. Now an Indian council is not only often an + important, but always an interesting, occasion. At this + juncture, Bull Bear, an influential chief among the + Cheyennes, came in and reported that the chiefs were on + their way to our camp, but would not be able to reach it + for some time. This was a mere artifice to secure delay. + General Hancock informed Bull Bear that, as the chiefs + could not arrive for some time, he would move his forces + up the stream nearer the village, and the council could be + held at our camp that night. To this proposition Bull Bear + gave his consent. + + At 11 A.M. we resumed the march, and had proceeded but a few + miles when we witnessed one of the finest and most imposing + military displays, according to the Indian art of war, + which it has been my lot to behold. It was nothing more + nor less than an Indian line of battle drawn directly + across our line of march, as if to say, "Thus far and no + further." Most of the Indians were mounted; all were + bedecked in their brightest colours, their heads crowned + with the brilliant war-bonnet, their lances bearing the + crimson pennant, bows strung, and quivers full of barbed + arrows. In addition to these weapons, which, with the + hunting-knife and tomahawk, are considered as forming the + armament of the warrior, each one was supplied with either + a breech-loading rifle or revolver, sometimes with both- + the latter obtained through the wise forethought and strong + love of fair play which prevails in the Indian department, + which, seeing that its wards are determined to fight, + is equally determined that there shall be no advantage taken, + but that the two sides shall be armed alike; proving, too, + in this manner, the wonderful liberality of our government, + which is not only able to furnish its soldiers with the + latest style of breech-loaders to defend it and themselves, + but is equally able and willing to give the same pattern + of arms to the common foe. The only difference is, that if + the soldier loses his weapon, he is charged double price + for it, while to avoid making any such charge against the + Indian, his weapons are given him without conditions attached. + + In the line of battle before us there were several hundred + Indians, while further to the rear and at different + distances were other organized bodies, acting apparently + as reserves. Still further behind were small detachments + who seemed to perform the duty of couriers, and were held + in readiness to convey messages to the village. The ground + beyond was favourable for an extended view, and as far as + the eye could reach, small groups of individuals could be + seen in the direction of the village; these were evidently + parties of observation, whose sole object was to learn the + result of our meeting with the main body and hasten with + the news to the village. + + For a few moments appearances seemed to foreshadow anything + but a peaceable issue. The infantry was in the advance, + followed closely by the artillery, while my command, + the cavalry, was marching on the flank. General Hancock, + who was riding with his staff at the head of the column, + coming suddenly in view of the wild, fantastic battle array, + which extended far to our right and left, and was not more + than half a mile in our front, hastily sent orders to the + infantry, artillery, and cavalry to form in line of battle, + evidently determined that, if war was intended, we should be + prepared. The cavalry being the last to form on the right, + came into line on a gallop, and without waiting to align + the ranks carefully, the command was given to "Draw sabre." + As the bright blades flashed from their scabbards into the + morning sunlight, and the infantry brought their muskets + to a carry, a contrast was presented which, to a military + eye, could but be striking. Here in battle array, facing + each other, were the representatives of civilized and + barbarous warfare. The one, with few modifications, stood + clothed in the same rude style of dress, bearing the same + patterned shield and weapon that his ancestors had borne + centuries before; the other confronted him in the dress + and supplied with the implements of war which an advanced + stage of civilization had pronounced the most perfect. + Was the comparative superiority of these two classes to be + subjected to the mere test of war here? All was eager + anxiety and expectation. Neither side seemed to comprehend + the object or intentions of the other; each was waiting + for the other to deliver the first blow. A more beautiful + battle-ground could not have been chosen. Not a bush or + even the slightest irregularity of ground intervened between + the two lines, which now stood frowning and facing each other. + Chiefs could be seen riding along the line, as if directing + and exhorting their braves to deeds of heroism. + + After a few moments of painful suspense, General Hancock, + accompanied by General A. J. Smith and other officers, + rode forward, and through an interpreter invited the chiefs + to meet us midway for the purpose of an interview. + In response to this invitation, Roman Nose, bearing a white + flag, accompanied by Bull Bear, White Horse, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, on the part of the Cheyennes, and Pawnee + Killer, Bad Wound, Tall-Bear-That-Walks-under-the-Ground, + Left Hand, Little Bear, and Little Bull, on the part of the + Sioux, rode forward to the middle of the open space between + the two lines. Here we shook hands with all the chiefs, + most of them exhibiting unmistakable signs of gratification + at this apparently peaceful termination of our rencounter. + General Hancock very naturally inquired the object of the + hostile attitude displayed before us, saying to the chiefs + that if war was their object, we were ready then and there + to participate. Their immediate answer was that they did + not desire war, but were peacefully disposed. They were + then told that we would continue our march toward the + village, and encamp near it, but would establish such + regulations that none of the soldiers would be permitted + to approach or disturb them. An arrangement was then + effected by which the chiefs were to assemble at General + Hancock's headquarters as soon as our camp was pitched. + The interview then terminated, and the Indians moved off + in the direction of their village, we following leisurely + in the rear. + + A march of a few miles brought us in sight of the village, + which was situated in a beautiful grove on the bank of the + stream up which we had been marching. It consisted of + upwards of three hundred lodges, a small fraction over half + belonging to the Cheyennes, the remainder to the Sioux. + Like all Indian encampments, the ground chosen was a most + romantic spot, and at the same time fulfilled in every + respect the requirements of a good camping-ground; wood, + water, and grass were abundant. The village was placed on + a wide, level plateau, while on the north and west, at a + short distance off, rose high bluffs, which admirably served + as a shelter against the cold winds which at that season of + the year prevail from those directions. Our tents were + pitched within a mile of the village. Guards were placed + between to prevent intrusion upon our part. We had scarcely + pitched our tents when Roman Nose, Bull Bear, Gray Beard, + and Medicine Wolf, all prominent chiefs of the Cheyenne + nation, came into camp with the information that upon our + approach their women and children had all fled from the + village, alarmed by the presence of so many soldiers, and + imagining a second Chivington massacre to be intended. + General Hancock insisted that they should all return, + promising protection and good treatment to all; that if + the camp was abandoned, he would hold it responsible. + The chiefs then stated their belief in their ability to + recall the fugitives, could they be furnished with horses + to overtake them. This was accordingly done, and two of + them set out mounted on two of our horses. An agreement + was also entered into at the same time, that one of our + interpreters, Ed Gurrier, a half-breed Cheyenne, who was in + the employ of the government, should remain in the village + and report every two hours as to whether any Indians were + leaving there. This was about seven o'clock in the evening. + At half-past nine the half-breed returned to head-quarters + with the intelligence that all the chiefs and warriors were + saddling up to leave, under circumstances showing that they + had no intention of returning, such as packing up every + article that could be carried with them, and cutting and + destroying their lodges—this last being done to obtain + small pieces for temporary shelter. + + I had retired to my tent, which was some few hundred yards + from that of General Hancock, when a messenger from the + latter awakened me with the information that the general + desired my presence in his tent. He briefly stated the + situation of affairs, and directed me to mount my command + as quickly and as silently as possible, surround the Indian + village, and prevent the departure of its inhabitants. + Easily said, but not so easily done. Under ordinary + circumstances, silence not being necessary, I could have + returned to my camp, and by a few blasts from the trumpet, + placed every soldier on his saddle almost as quickly as it + has taken time to write this short sentence. No bugle calls + must be sounded; we were to adopt some of the stealth of the + Indians—how successfully remained to be seen. By this time + every soldier and officer was in his tent sound asleep. + First going to the tent of the adjutant and arousing him, + I procured an experienced assistant in my labours. Next the + captains of companies were awakened and orders imparted + to them. They in turn transmitted the order to the first + sergeant, who similarly aroused the men. It has often + surprised me to observe the alacrity with which disciplined + soldiers, experienced in campaigning, will hasten to prepare + themselves for the march in an emergency like this. + No questions are asked, no time is wasted. A soldier's + toilet, on an Indian campaign, is a simple affair, and + requires little time for arranging. His clothes are + gathered up hurriedly, no matter how, so long as he retains + possession of them. The first object is to get his horse + saddled and bridled, and until this is done his own dress + is a matter of secondary importance, and one button or hook + must do the duty of half a dozen. When his horse is ready + for the mount, the rider will be seen completing his own + equipment; stray buttons will receive attention, arms will + be overhauled, spurs restrapped; then, if there still remain + a few spare moments, the homely black pipe is filled and + lighted, and the soldier's preparation is complete. + + The night was all that could be desired for the success of + our enterprise. The air was mild and pleasant; the moon, + although nearly full, kept almost constantly behind the + clouds, as if to screen us in our hazardous undertaking. + I say hazardous, because none of us imagined for one moment + that if the Indians discovered us in our attempt to surround + them and their village, we should escape without a fight— + a fight, too, in which the Indians, sheltered behind the + trunks of the stately forest trees under which their lodges + were pitched, would possess all the advantage. General + Hancock, anticipating that the Indians would discover our + approach, and that a fight would ensue, ordered the + artillery and infantry under arms, to await the result of + our moonlight adventure. My command was soon in the saddle, + and silently making its way toward the village. + Instructions had been given forbidding all conversation + except in a whisper. Sabres were disposed of to prevent + clanging. Taking a camp-fire which we could see in the + village as our guiding point, we made a detour so as to + place the village between ourselves and the infantry. + Occasionally the moon would peep out from the clouds and + enable us to catch a hasty glance at the village. Here and + there under the thick foliage we could see the white, + conical-shaped lodges. Were the inmates slumbering, + unaware of our close proximity, or were their dusky defenders + concealed, as well they might have been, along the banks of + the Pawnee, quietly awaiting our approach, and prepared to + greet us with their well-known war-whoop? These were + questions that were probably suggested to the mind of each + individual of my command. If we were discovered approaching + in the stealthy, suspicious manner which characterized our + movements, the hour being midnight, it would require a more + confiding nature than that of the Indian to assign a + friendly or peaceful motive to our conduct. The same + flashes of moonlight which gave us hurried glimpses of the + village enabled us to see our own column of horsemen + stretching its silent length far into the dim darkness, and + winding its course, like some huge anaconda about to envelop + its victim. + + The method by which it was determined to establish a cordon + of armed troopers about the fated village, was to direct + the march in a circle, with the village in the centre, + the commanding officer of each rear troop halting his + command at the proper point, and deploying his men similarly + to a line of skirmishers—the entire circle, when thus formed, + facing toward the village, and, distant from it perhaps a + few hundred yards. No sooner was our line completely formed + than the moon, as if deeming darkness no longer essential + to our success, appeared from behind her screen and lighted + up the entire scene. And beautiful it was! The great + circle of troops, each individual of which sat on his steed + silent as a statue, the dense foliage of the cotton trees + sheltering the bleached, skin-clad lodges of the red men, + the little stream in the midst murmuring undisturbedly in + its channel, all combined to produce an artistic effect, + as striking as it was interesting. But we were not there + to study artistic effects. The next step was to determine + whether we had captured an inhabited village, involving + almost necessarily a severe conflict with its savage + occupants, or whether the red man had again proven too + wily and crafty for his more civilized brothers. + + Directing the entire line of troopers to remain mounted + with carbines held at the "Advance," I dismounted, and + taking with me Gurrier, the half-breed, Dr. Coates, one of + our medical staff, and Lieutenant Moylan, the adjutant, + we proceeded on our hands and knees toward the village. + The prevailing opinion was that the Indians were still + asleep. I desired to approach near enough to the lodges + to enable the half-breed to hail the village in the Indian + tongue, and if possible establish friendly relations at once. + It became a question of prudence with us, which we discussed + in whispers as we proceeded on our "Tramp, tramp, tramp, + the boys are creeping," how far from our horses and how + near to the village we dared to go. If so few of us were + discovered entering the village in this questionable manner, + it was more than probable that, like the returners of stolen + property, we should be suitably rewarded and no questions + asked. The opinion of Gurrier, the half-breed, was eagerly + sought for and generally deferred to. His wife, + a full-blooded Cheyenne, was a resident of the village. + This with him was an additional reason for wishing a peaceful + termination to our efforts. When we had passed over + two-thirds of the distance between our horses and the + village, it was thought best to make our presence known. + Thus far not a sound had been heard to disturb the stillness + of the night. Gurrier called out at the top of his voice + in the Cheyenne tongue. The only response came from the + throats of a score or more of Indian dogs which set up a + fierce barking. At the same time one or two of our party + asserted that they saw figure moving beneath the trees. + Gurrier repeated his summons, but with no better results + than before. + + A hurried consultation ensued. The presence of so many dogs + in the village was regarded by the half-breed as almost + positive assurance that the Indians were still there. + Yet it was difficult to account for their silence. Gurrier + in a loud tone repeated who he was, and that our mission was + friendly. Still no answer. He then gave it as his opinion + that the Indians were on the alert, and were probably + waiting in the shadow of the trees for us to approach nearer, + when they would pounce upon us. This comforting opinion + induced another conference. We must ascertain the truth of + the matter; our party could do this as well as a larger + number, and to go back and send another party in our stead + could not be thought of. + + Forward! was the verdict. Each one grasped his revolver, + resolved to do his best, whether it was in running or + fighting. I think most of us would have preferred to take + our own chances at running. We had approached near enough + to see that some of the lodges were detached some distance + from the main encampment. Selecting the nearest of these, + we directed our advance on it. While all of us were full + of the spirit of adventure, and were further encouraged + with the idea that we were in the discharge of our duty, + there was scarcely one of us who would not have felt more + comfortable if we could have got back to our horses without + loss of pride. Yet nothing, under the circumstances, but + a positive order would have induced any one to withdraw. + + Cautiously approaching, on all fours, to within a few yards + of the nearest lodge, occasionally halting and listening to + discover whether the village was deserted or not, we finally + decided that the Indians had fled before the arrival of the + cavalry, and that none but empty lodges were before us. + This conclusion somewhat emboldened as well as accelerated + our progress. Arriving at the first lodge, one of our party + raised the curtain or mat which served as a door, and the + doctor and myself entered. The interior of the lodge was + dimly lighted by the dying embers of a small fire built in + the centre. All around us were to be seen the usual + adornments and articles which constitute the household + effects of an Indian family. Buffalo-robes were spread like + carpets over the floor; head-mats, used to recline on, were + arranged as if for the comfort of their owners; parflêches, + a sort of Indian band-box, with their contents apparently + undisturbed, were carefully stowed away under the edges or + borders of the lodge. These, with the door-mats, paint-bags, + rawhide ropes, and other articles of Indian equipment, + were left as if the owners had only absented themselves for + a brief period. To complete the picture of an Indian lodge, + over the fire hung a camp-kettle, in which, by means of the + dim light of the fire, we could see what had been intended + for the supper of the late occupants of the lodge. + The doctor, ever on the alert to discover additional items + of knowledge, whether pertaining to history or science, + snuffed the savoury odours which arose from the dark + recesses of the mysterious kettle. Casting about the lodge + for some instrument to aid him in his pursuit of knowledge, + he found a horn spoon, with which he began his investigation + of the contents, finally succeeding in getting possession + of a fragment which might have been the half of a duck or + rabbit, judging from its size merely. "Ah!" said the doctor, + in his most complacent manner, "here is the opportunity I + have long been waiting for. I have often desired to test + the Indian mode of cooking. What do you suppose this is?" + holding up the dripping morsel. Unable to obtain the + desired information, the doctor, whose naturally good + appetite had been sensibly sharpened by his recent exercise, + set to with a will and ate heartily of the mysterious + contents of the kettle. He was only satisfied on one point, + that it was delicious—a dish fit for a king. Just then + Gurrier, the half-breed, entered the lodge. He could solve + the mystery, having spent years among the Indians. To him + the doctor appealed for information. Fishing out a huge + piece, and attacking it with the voracity of a hungry wolf, + he was not long in determining what the doctor had supped + heartily upon. His first words settled the mystery: "Why, + this is dog." I will not attempt to repeat the few but + emphatic words uttered by the heartily disgusted member of + the medical fraternity as he rushed from the lodge. + + Other members of our small party had entered other lodges, + only to find them, like the first, deserted. But little of + the furniture belonging to the lodges had been taken, + showing how urgent and hasty had been the flight of the + owners. To aid in the examination of the village, + reinforcements were added to our party, and an exploration + of each lodge was determined upon. At the same time a + messenger was despatched to General Hancock, informing him + of the flight of the Indians. Some of the lodges were + closed by having brush or timber piled up against the + entrance, as if to preserve the contents. Others had huge + pieces cut from their sides, these pieces evidently being + carried away to furnish temporary shelter for the fugitives. + In most of the lodges the fires were still burning. I had + entered several without discovering anything important. + Finally, in company with the doctor, I arrived at one the + interior of which was quite dark, the fire having almost + died out. Procuring a lighted fagot, I prepared to explore it, + as I had done the others; but no sooner had I entered the + lodge than my fagot failed me, leaving me in total darkness. + Handing it to the doctor to be relighted, I began to feel + my way about the interior of the lodge. I had almost made + the circuit when my hand came in contact with a human foot; + at the same time a voice unmistakably Indian, and which + evidently came from the owner of the foot, convinced me that + I was not alone. My first impressions were that in their + hasty flight the Indians had gone off, leaving this one + asleep. My next, very naturally, related to myself. + I would gladly have placed myself on the outside of the + lodge, and there matured plans for interviewing its occupant; + but unfortunately to reach the entrance of the lodge, I must + either pass over or around the owner of the before-mentioned + foot and voice. Could I have been convinced that among + its other possessions there was neither tomahawk nor + scalping-knife, pistol nor war-club, or any similar article + of the noble red-man's toilet, I would have risked an attempt + to escape through the low narrow opening of the lodge; + but who ever saw an Indian without one or all of these + interesting trinkets? Had I made the attempt, I should + have expected to encounter either the keen edge of the + scalping-knife or the blow of the tomahawk, and to have + engaged in a questionable struggle for life. This would + not do. I crouched in silence for a few moments, hoping + the doctor would return with the lighted fagot. I need not + say that each succeeding moment spent in the darkness of + that lodge seemed an age. I could hear a slight movement + on the part of my unknown neighbour, which did not add to + my comfort. Why does not the doctor return? At last I + discovered the approach of a light on the outside. When it + neared the entrance, I called the doctor and informed him + that an Indian was in the lodge, and that he had better + have his weapons ready for a conflict. I had, upon + discovering the foot, drawn my hunting-knife from its + scabbard, and now stood waiting the denouement. With his + lighted fagot in one hand and cocked revolver in the other, + the doctor cautiously entered the lodge. And there directly + between us, wrapped in a buffalo-robe, lay the cause of my + anxiety—a little Indian girl, probably ten years old; + not a full-blood, but a half-breed. She was terribly + frightened at finding herself in our hands, with none of + her people near. Other parties in exploring the deserted + village found an old, decrepit Indian of the Sioux tribe, + who had also been deserted, owing to his infirmities and + inability to travel with the tribe. Nothing was gleaned + from our search of the village which might indicate the + direction of the flight. General Hancock, on learning the + situation of affairs, despatched some companies of infantry + with orders to replace the cavalry and protect the village + and its contents from disturbance until its final disposition + could be determined upon, and it was decided that with eight + troops of cavalry I should start in pursuit of the Indians + at early dawn on the following morning. + + The Indians, after leaving their village, went up on the + Smoky Hill, and committed the most horrible depredations + upon the scattered settlers in that region. Upon this news, + General Hancock issued the following order:— + + "As a punishment of the bad faith practised by the Cheyennes + and Sioux who occupied the Indian village at this place, and + as a chastisement for murders and depredations committed + since the arrival of the command at this point, by the + people of these tribes, the village recently occupied by + them, which is now in our hands, will be utterly destroyed." + + The Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Apaches had been united under + one agency; the Kiowas and Comanches under another. + As General Hancock's expedition had reference to all these + tribes, he had invited both the agents to accompany him + into the Indian country and be present at all interviews + with the representatives of these tribes, for the purpose, + as the invitation stated, of showing the Indians "that the + officers of the government are acting in harmony." + + In conversation with the general the agents admitted that + Indians had been guilty of all the outrages charged against + them, but each asserted the innocence of the particular + tribes under his charge, and endeavoured to lay their crimes + at the door of their neighbours. + + Here was positive evidence from the agents themselves that + the Indians against whom we were operating were deserving + of severe punishment. The only conflicting portion of the + testimony was as to which tribe was most guilty. Subsequent + events proved, however, that all of the five tribes named, + as well as the Sioux, had combined for a general war + throughout the plains and along our frontier. Such a war + had been threatened to our post commanders along the + Arkansas on many occasions during the winter. The movement + of the Sioux and Cheyennes toward the north indicated that + the principal theatre of military operations during the + summer would be between the Smoky Hill and Platte rivers. + General Hancock accordingly assembled the principal chiefs + of the Kiowas and Arapahoes in council at Fort Dodge, + hoping to induce them to remain at peace and observe their + treaty obligations. + + The most prominent chiefs in council were Satanta, Lone Wolf, + and Kicking Bird of the Kiowas, and Little Raven and Yellow + Bear of the Arapahoes. During the council extravagant + promises of future good behaviour were made by these chiefs. + So effective and convincing was the oratorical effort of + Satanta, that at the termination of his address, the + department commander and his staff presented him with the + uniform coat, sash, and hat of a major-general. In return + for this compliment, Satanta, within a few weeks, attacked + the post at which the council was held, arrayed in his + new uniform. +</pre> + <p> + In the spring of 1878, the Indians commenced a series of depredations + along the Santa Fe Trail and against the scattered settlers of the + frontier, that were unparalleled in their barbarity. General Alfred Sully, + a noted Indian fighter, who commanded the district of the Upper Arkansas, + early concentrated a portion of the Seventh and Tenth Cavalry and Third + Infantry along the line of the Old Santa Fe Trail, and kept out small + expeditions of scouting parties to protect the overland coaches and + freight caravans; but the troops effected very little in stopping the + devilish acts of the Indians, who were now fully determined to carry out + their threats of a general war, which culminated in the winter expedition + of General Sheridan, who completely subdued them, and forced all the + tribes on reservations; since which time there has never been any trouble + with the plains Indians worthy of mention.<a href="#linknote-69" + name="linknoteref-69" id="linknoteref-69"><small>69</small></a> + </p> + <p> + General Sully, about the 1st of September, with eight companies of the + Seventh Cavalry and five companies of infantry, left Fort Dodge, on the + Arkansas, on a hurried expedition against the Kiowas, Arapahoes, and + Cheyennes. The command marched in a general southeasterly direction, and + reached the sand hills of the Beaver and Wolf rivers, by a circuitous + route, on the fifth day. When nearly through that barren region, they were + attacked by a force of eight hundred of the allied tribes under the + leadership of the famous Kiowa chief, Satanta. A running fight was kept up + with the savages on the first day, in which two of the cavalry were killed + and one wounded. + </p> + <p> + That night the savages came close enough to camp to fire into it (an + unusual proceeding in Indian warfare, as they rarely molest troops during + the night), I now quote from Custer again: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The next day General Sully directed his march down the + valley of the Beaver; but just as his troops were breaking + camp, the long wagon-train having already "pulled out," and + the rear guard of the command having barely got into their + saddles, a party of between two and three hundred warriors, + who had evidently in some inexplicable manner contrived to + conceal themselves until the proper moment, dashed into the + deserted camp within a few yards of the rear of the troops, + and succeeded in cutting off a few led horses and two of + the cavalrymen who, as is often the case, had lingered a + moment behind the column. + + Fortunately, the acting adjutant of the cavalry, Brevet + Captain A. E. Smith, was riding at the rear of the column + and witnessed the attack of the Indians. Captain Hamilton,<a + href="#linknote-70" name="linknoteref-70" id="linknoteref-70">70</a> + of the Seventh Cavalry, was also present in command of the + rear guard. Wheeling to the rightabout, he at once prepared + to charge the Indians and attempt the rescue of the two + troopers who were being carried off before his very eyes. + At the same time, Captain Smith, as representative of the + commanding officer of the cavalry, promptly took the + responsibility of directing a squadron of the cavalry to + wheel out of column and advance in support of Captain + Hamilton's guard. With this hastily formed detachment, + the Indians, still within pistol-range, but moving off with + their prisoners, were gallantly charged and so closely + pressed that they were forced to relinquish one of their + prisoners, but not before shooting him through the body and + leaving him on the ground, as they supposed, mortally wounded. + The troops continued to charge the retreating Indians, + upon whom they were gaining, determined, if possible, + to effect the rescue of their remaining comrade. They were + advancing down one slope while the Indians, just across + a ravine, were endeavouring to escape with their prisoner + up the opposite ascent, when a peremptory order reached the + officers commanding the pursuing force to withdraw their men + and reform the column at once. The terrible fate awaiting + the unfortunate trooper carried off by the Indians spread + a deep gloom throughout the command. All were too familiar + with the horrid customs of the savages to hope for a moment + that the captive would be reserved for aught but a slow, + lingering death, from tortures the most horrible and painful + which blood-thirsty minds could suggest. Such was the truth + in his case, as we learned afterwards when peace (?) was + established with the tribes then engaged in war. + + The expedition proceeded down the valley of the Beaver, + the Indians contesting every step of the way. In the + afternoon, about three o'clock, the troops arrived at + a ridge of sand hills a few miles southeast of the + presentsite of Camp Supply, where quite a determined + engagement took place between the command and the three + tribes, Cheyennes, Arapahoes, and Kiowas, the Indians + being the assailants. The Indians seemed to have reserved + their strongest efforts until the troops and train had + advanced well into the sand hills, when a most obstinate + resistance—and well conducted, too—was offered the + farther advance of the troops. It was evident that the + troops were probably nearing the Indian villages, and that + this opposition to further advance was to save them. The + character of the country immediately about the troops was + not favourable to the operations of cavalry; the surface + of the rolling plain was cut up by irregular and closely + located sand hills, too steep and sandy to allow cavalry + to move with freedom, yet capable of being easily cleared + of savages by troops fighting on foot. The Indians took + post on the hilltops and began a harassing fire on the + troops and train. Captain Yates, with a single troop of + cavalry, was ordered forward to drive them away. This was + a proceeding which did not seem to meet with favour from + the savages. Captain Yates could drive them wherever he + encountered them, but they appeared in increased numbers + at some other threatened point. After contending in this + non-effective manner for a couple of hours, the impression + arose in the minds of some that the train could not be + conducted through the sand hills in the face of the strong + opposition offered by the Indians. The order was issued + to turn about and withdraw. The order was executed, and + the troop and train, followed by the exultant Indians, + retired a few miles to the Beaver, and encamped for the + night on the ground afterward known as Camp Supply. + + Captain Yates had caused to be brought off the field, when + his troop was ordered to retire, the body of one of his men, + who had been slain in the fight. As the troops were to + continue their backward march next day, and it was impossible + to transport the dead body further, Captain Yates ordered + preparations made for interring it in camp that night. + Knowing that the Indians would thoroughly search the deserted + camp-ground almost before the troops should get out of sight, + and would be quick, with their watchful eyes, to detect a + grave, and, if successful in discovering it, would unearth + the body in order to get the scalp, directions were given + to prepare the grave after nightfall; and the spot selected + would have baffled any one but an Indian. The grave was + dug under the picket line to which the seventy or eighty + horses of the troop would be tethered during the night, + so that their constant tramping and pawing should completely + cover up and obliterate all traces. The following morning, + even those who had performed the sad rites of burial to + their fallen comrade could scarcely have indicated the exact + location of the grave. Yet when we returned to that point + a few weeks later, it was discovered that the wily savages + had found the place, unearthed the body, and removed the + scalp of their victim on the day following the interment.<a + href="#linknote-71" name="linknoteref-71" id="linknoteref-71">71</a> +</pre> + <p> + After leaving the camp at Supply, the Indians gradually increased their + force, until they mustered about two thousand warriors. For four days and + nights they hovered around the command, and by the time it reached + Mulberry Creek there were not one thousand rounds of ammunition left in + the whole force of troopers and infantrymen. At the creek, the incessant + charges of the now infuriated savages compelled the troops to use this + small amount held in reserve, and they found themselves almost at the + mercy of the Indians. But before they were absolutely defenceless, Colonel + Keogh had sent a trusty messenger in the night to Fort Dodge for a supply + of cartridges to meet the command at the creek, which fortunately arrived + there in time to save that spot from being a veritable "last ditch." + </p> + <p> + The savages, in the little but exciting encounter at the creek before the + ammunition arrived, would ride up boldly toward the squadrons of cavalry, + discharge the shots from their revolvers, and then, in their rage, throw + them at the skirmishers on the flanks of the supply-train, while the + latter, nearly out of ammunition, were compelled to sit quietly in their + saddles, idle spectators of the extraordinary scene.<a href="#linknote-72" + name="linknoteref-72" id="linknoteref-72"><small>72</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Many of the Indians were killed on their ponies, however, by those who + were fortunate enough to have a few cartridges left; but none were + captured, as the savages had taken their usual precaution to tie + themselves to their animals, and as soon as dead were dragged away by + them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. INVASION OF THE RAILROAD. + </h2> + <p> + The tourist who to-day, in a palace car, surrounded by all the + conveniences of our American railway service, commences his tour of the + prairies at the Missouri River, enters classic ground the moment the train + leaves the muddy flood of that stream on its swift flight toward the + golden shores of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + He finds a large city at the very portals of the once far West, with all + the bustle and energy which is so characteristic of American enterprise. + </p> + <p> + Gradually, as he is whirled along the iron trail, the woods lessen; he + catches views of beautiful intervales; a bright little stream flashes and + foams in the sunlight as the trees grow fewer, and soon he emerges on the + broad sea of prairie, shut in only by the great circle of the heavens. + </p> + <p> + Dotting this motionless ocean everywhere, like whitened sails, are quiet + homes, real argosies ventured by the sturdy and industrious people who + have fought their way through almost insurmountable difficulties to the + tranquillity which now surrounds them. + </p> + <p> + A few miles west of Topeka, the capital of Kansas, when the train reaches + the little hamlet of Wakarusa, the track of the railroad commences to + follow the route of the Old Santa Fe Trail. At that point, too, the Oregon + Trail branches off for the heavily timbered regions of the Columbia. Now + begins the classic ground of the once famous highway to New Mexico; nearly + every stream, hill, and wooded dell has its story of adventure in those + days when the railroad was regarded as an impossibility, and the region + beyond the Missouri as a veritable desert. + </p> + <p> + After some hours' rapid travelling, if our tourist happens to be a + passenger on the "California Limited," the swift train that annihilates + distance, he will pass by towns, hamlets, and immense cattle ranches, + stopping only at county-seats, and enter the justly famous Arkansas valley + at the city of Hutchinson. The Old Trail now passes a few miles north of + this busy place, which is noted for its extensive salt works, nor does the + railroad again meet with it until the site of old Fort Zarah is reached, + forty-seven miles west of Hutchinson, though it runs nearly parallel to + the once great highway at varying distances for the whole detour. + </p> + <p> + The ruins of the once important military post may be seen from the + car-windows on the right, as the train crosses the iron bridge spanning + the Walnut, and here the Old Trail exactly coincides with the railroad, + the track of the latter running immediately on the old highway. + </p> + <p> + Three miles westward from the classic little Walnut the Old Trail ran + through what is now the Court House Square of the town of Great Bend; it + may be seen from the station, and on that very spot occurred the terrible + fight of Captains Booth and Hallowell in 1864. + </p> + <p> + Thirteen miles further mountainward, on the right of the railroad, not far + from the track, stands all that remains of the once dreaded Pawnee Rock. + It lies just beyond the limits of the little hamlet bearing its name. It + would not be recognized by any of the old plainsmen were they to come out + of their isolated graves; for it is only a disintegrated, low mass of + sandstone now, utilized for the base purposes of a corral, in which the + village herd of milch cows lie down at night and chew their cuds, such + peaceful transformation has that great civilizer, the locomotive, wrought + in less than two decades. + </p> + <p> + Another five or six miles, and the train crosses Ash Creek, which, too, + was once one of the favourite haunts of the Pawnee and Comanche on their + predatory excursions, in the days when the mules and horses of passing + freight caravans excited their cupidity. A short whirl again, and the town + of Larned, lying peacefully on the Arkansas and Pawnee Fork, is reached. + Immediately opposite the centre of the street through which the railroad + runs, and which was also the course of the Old Trail, lying in the + Arkansas River, close to its northern bank, is a small thickly-wooded + island, now reached by a bridge, that is famous as the battle-ground of a + terrible conflict thirty years ago, between the Pawnees and Cheyennes, + hereditary enemies, in which the latter tribe was cruelly defeated. + </p> + <p> + The railroad bridge crosses Pawnee Fork at the precise spot where the Old + Trail did. This locality has been the scene of some of the bloodiest + encounters between the various tribes of savages themselves, and between + them and the freight caravans, the overland coaches, and every other kind + of outfit that formerly attempted the passage of the now peaceful stream. + In fact, the whole region from Walnut Creek to the mouth of the Pawnee, + which includes in its area Ash Creek and Pawnee Rock, seemed to be the + greatest resort for the Indians, who hovered about the Santa Fe Trail for + the sole purpose of robbery and murder; it was a very lucky caravan or + coach, indeed, that passed through that portion of the route without being + attacked. + </p> + <p> + All the once dangerous points of the Old Trail having been successively + passed—Cow Creek, Big and Little Coon, and Ash Creek, Fort Dodge, + Fort Aubrey,<a href="#linknote-73" name="linknoteref-73" + id="linknoteref-73"><small>73</small></a> and Point of Rocks—the + tourist arrives at last at the foot-hills. At La Junta the railroad + separates into two branches; one going to Denver, the other on to New + Mexico. Here, a relatively short distance to the northwest, on the right + of the train, may be seen the ruins of Bent's Fort, the tourist having + already passed the site of the once famous Big Timbers, a favourite winter + camping-ground of the Cheyennes and Arapahoes; but everywhere around him + there reigns such perfect quiet and pastoral beauty, he might imagine that + the peaceful landscape upon which he looks had never been a bloody arena. + </p> + <p> + I suggest to the lover of nature that he should cross the Raton Range in + the early morning, or late in the afternoon; for then the magnificent + scenery of the Trail over the high divide into New Mexico assumes its most + beautiful aspect. + </p> + <p> + In approaching the range from the Old Trail, or now from the railroad, + their snow-clad peaks may be seen at a distance of sixty miles. In the era + of caravans and pack-trains, for hour after hour, as they moved slowly + toward the goal of their ambition, the summit of the fearful pathway on + the divide, the huge forms of the mountains seemed to recede, and yet + ascend higher. On the next day's journey their outlines appeared more + irregular and ragged. Drawing still nearer, their base presented a long, + dark strip stretching throughout their whole course, ever widening until + it seemed like a fathomless gulf, separating the world of reality from the + realms of imagination beyond. + </p> + <p> + Another weary twenty miles of dusty travel, and the black void slowly + dissolved, and out of the shadows lines of broken, sterile, ferruginous + buttes and detached masses of rocks, whose soilless surface refuses + sustenance, save to a few scattered, stunted pines and lifeless mosses, + emerged to view. + </p> + <p> + The progress of the weary-footed mules or oxen was now through ravines and + around rocks; up narrow paths which the melting snows have washed out; + sometimes between beetling cliffs, often to their very edge, where + hundreds of feet below the Trail the tall trees seemed diminished into + shrubs. Then again the road led over an immense broad terrace, for + thousands of yards around, with a bright lake gleaming in the refracted + light, and brilliant Alpine plants waving their beautiful flowers on its + margin. Still the coveted summit appeared so far off as to be beyond the + range of vision, and it seemed as if, instead of ascending, the entire + mass underneath had been receding, like the mountains of ice over which + Arctic explorers attempt to reach the pole. Now the tortuous Trail passed + through snow-wreaths which the winds had eddied into indentations; then + over bright, glassy surfaces of ice and fragments of rocks, until the + pinnacle was reached. Nearer, along the broad successive terraces of the + opposite mountains, the evergreen pine, the cedar, with its stiff, angular + branches, and the cottonwood, with its varied curves and bright colours, + were crowded into bunches or strung into zigzag lines, interspersed with + shrubs and mountain plants, among which the flaming cactus was + conspicuous. To the right and left, the bare cones of the barren peaks + rose in multitude, with their calm, awful forms shrouded in snow, and + their dark shadows reflected far into the valleys, like spectres from a + chaotic world. + </p> + <p> + In going through the Raton Pass, the Old Santa Fe Trail meandered up a + steep valley, enclosed on either side by abrupt hills covered with pine + and masses of gray rock. The road ran along the points of varying + elevations, now in the stony bed of Raton Creek, which it crossed + fifty-three times, the sparkling, flitting waters of the bubbling stream + leaping and foaming against the animals' feet as they hauled the great + wagons of the freight caravans over the tortuous passage. The creek often + rushed rapidly under large flat stones, lost to sight for a moment, then + reappearing with a fresh impetus and dashing over its flinty, uneven bed + until it mingled with the pure waters of Le Purgatoire. + </p> + <p> + Still ascending, the scenery assumed a bolder, rougher cast; then sudden + turns gave you hurried glimpses of the great valley below. A gentle dell + sloped to the summit of the pass on the west, then, rising on the east by + a succession of terraces, the bald, bare cliff was reached, overlooking + the whole region for many miles, and this is Raton Peak.<a + href="#linknote-74" name="linknoteref-74" id="linknoteref-74"><small>74</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The extreme top of this famous peak was only reached after more than an + hour's arduous struggle. On the lofty plateau the caravans and pack-trains + rested their tired animals. Here, too, the lonely trapper, when crossing + the range in quest of beaver, often chose this lofty spot on which to + kindle his little fire and broil juicy steaks of the black-tail deer, the + finest venison in the world; but before he indulged in the savoury + morsels, if he was in the least superstitious or devout, or inspired by + the sublime scene around him, he lighted his pipe, and after saluting the + elevated ridge on which he sat by the first whiff of the fragrant + kinnikinick, Indian-fashion, he in turn offered homage in the same manner + to the sky above him, the earth beneath, and to the cardinal points of the + compass, and was then prepared to eat his solitary meal in a spirit of + thankfulness. + </p> + <p> + Far below this magnificent vantage-ground lies the valley of the Rio Las + Animas Perdidas. On the other verge of the great depression rise the + peerless, everlastingly snow-wreathed Spanish Peaks,<a href="#linknote-75" + name="linknoteref-75" id="linknoteref-75"><small>75</small></a> whose + giant summits are grim sentinels that for untold ages have witnessed + hundreds of sanguinary conflicts between the wily nomads of the vast + plains watered by the silent Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + All around you snow-clad mountains lift their serrated crowns above the + horizon, dim, white, and indistinct, like icebergs seen at sea by + moonlight; others, nearer, more rugged, naked of verdure, and irregular in + contour, seem to lose their lofty summits in the intense blue of the sky. + </p> + <p> + Fisher's Peak, which is in full view from the train, was named from the + following circumstance: Captain Fisher was a German artillery officer + commanding a battery in General Kearney's Army of the West in the conquest + of New Mexico and was encamped at the base of the peak to which he + involuntarily gave his name. He was intently gazing at the lofty summit + wrapped in the early mist, and not being familiar with the illusory + atmospheric effects of the region, he thought that to go there would be + merely a pleasant promenade. So, leaving word that he would return to + breakfast, he struck out at a brisk walk for the crest. That whole day, + the following night, and the succeeding day, dragged their weary hours on, + but no tidings of the commanding officer were received at the battery, and + ill rumours were current of his death by Indians or bears, when, just as + his mess were about to take their seats at the table for the evening meal, + their captain put in an appearance, a very tired but a wiser man. He + started to go to the peak, and he went there! + </p> + <p> + On the summit of another rock-ribbed elevation close by, the tourist will + notice the shaft of an obelisk. It is over the grave of George Simpson, + once a noted mountaineer in the days of the great fur companies. For a + long time he made his home there, and it was his dying request that the + lofty peak he loved so well while living should be his last resting-place. + The peak is known as "Simpson's Rest," and is one of the notable features + of the rugged landscape. + </p> + <p> + Pike's Peak, far away to the north, intensely white and silvery in the + clear sky, hangs like a great dome high in the region of the clouds, a + marked object, worthy to commemorate the indefatigable efforts of the + early voyageur whose name it bears. + </p> + <p> + In this wonderful locality, both Pike's Peak and the snowy range over two + hundred miles from our point of observation really seem to the uninitiated + as if a brisk walk of an hour or two would enable one to reach them, so + deceptive is the atmosphere of these elevated regions. + </p> + <p> + About two miles from the crest of the range, yet over seven thousand feet + above the sea-level, in a pretty little depression about as large as a + medium-sized corn-field in the Eastern States, Uncle Dick Wooton lived, + and here, too, was his toll-gate. The veteran mountaineer erected a + substantial house of adobe, after the style of one of the old-time + Southern plantation residences, a memory, perhaps, of his youth, when he + raised tobacco in his father's fields in Kentucky.<a href="#linknote-76" + name="linknoteref-76" id="linknoteref-76"><small>76</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The most charming hour in which to be on the crest of Raton Range is in + the afternoon, when the weather is clear and calm. As the night comes on + apace in the distant valley beneath, the evening shadows drop down, + pencilled with broad bands of rosy light as they creep slowly across the + beautiful landscape, while the rugged vista below is enveloped in a + diffused haze like that which marks the season of the Indian summer in the + lower great plains. Above, the sky curves toward the relatively restricted + horizon, with not a cloud to dim its intense blue, nowhere so beautiful as + in these lofty altitudes. + </p> + <p> + The sun, however, does not always shine resplendently; there are times + when the most terrific storms of wind, hail, and rain change the entire + aspect of the scene. Fortunately, these violent bursts never last long; + they vanish as rapidly as they come, leaving in their wake the most + phenomenally beautiful rainbows, whose trailing splendours which they owe + to the dry and rare air of the region, and its high refractory power, are + gorgeous in the extreme. + </p> + <p> + In 1872 the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad entered the valley of + the Upper Arkansas. Twenty-four years ago, on a delicious October + afternoon, I stood on the absolutely level plateau at the mouth of Pawnee + Fork where that historic creek debouches into the great river. The + remembrance of that view will never pass from my memory, for it showed a + curious temporary blending of two distinct civilizations. One, the new, + marking the course of empire in its restless march westward; the other, + that of the aboriginal, which, like a dissolving view, was soon to fade + away and be forgotten. + </p> + <p> + The box-elders and cottonwoods thinly covering the creek-bottom were + gradually donning their autumn dress of russet, and the mirage had already + commenced its fantastic play with the landscape. On the sides and crests + of the sparsely grassed sand hills south of the Arkansas a few buffaloes + were grazing in company with hundreds of Texas cattle, while in the broad + valley beneath, small flocks of graceful antelope were lying down, quietly + ruminating their midday meal. + </p> + <p> + In the distance, far eastwardly, a train of cars could be seen + approaching; as far as the eye could reach, on either side of the track, + the virgin sod had been turned to the sun; the "empire of the plough" was + established, and the march of immigration in its hunger for the horizon + had begun. + </p> + <p> + Half a mile away from the bridge spanning the Fork, under the grateful + shade of the largest trees, about twenty skin lodges were irregularly + grouped; on the brown sod of the sun-cured grass a herd of a hundred + ponies were lazily feeding, while a troop of dusky little children were + chasing the yellow butterflies from the dried and withered sunflower + stalks which once so conspicuously marked the well-worn highway to the + mountains. These Indians, the remnant of a tribe powerful in the years of + savage sovereignty, were on their way, in charge of their agent, to their + new homes, on the reservation just allotted to them by the government, a + hundred miles south of the Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + Their primitive lodges contrasted strangely with the peaceful little + sod-houses, dugouts, and white cottages of the incoming settlers on the + public lands, with the villages struggling into existence, and above all + with the rapidly moving cars; unmistakable evidences that the new + civilization was soon to sweep the red men before it like chaff before the + wind. + </p> + <p> + Farther to the west, a caravan of white-covered wagons loaded with + supplies for some remote military post, the last that would ever travel + the Old Trail, was slowly crawling toward the setting sun. I watched it + until only a cloud of dust marked its place low down on the horizon, and + it was soon lost sight of in the purple mist that was rapidly + overspreading the far-reaching prairie. + </p> + <p> + It was the beginning of the end; on the 9th of February, 1880, the first + train over the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad arrived at Santa Fe + and the Old Trail as a route of commerce was closed forever. The once + great highway is now only a picture in the memory of the few who have + travelled its weary course, following the windings of the silent Arkansas, + on to the portals that guard the rugged pathway leading to the shores of + the blue Pacific. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES. + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ The whole country watered + by the Mississippi and Missouri was called Florida at that time.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ The celebrated Jesuit, + author of <i>The History of New France</i>, <i>Journals of a Voyage to + North America</i>, <i>Letters to the Duchess</i>, etc.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ Otoes.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Iowas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ Boulevard, Promenade.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ Notes of a Military + Reconnoissance from Fort Leavenworth, in Missouri, to San Diego, in + California, including parts of the Arkansas, Del Norte, and Gila Rivers. + Brevet Major W. H. Emory, Corps of Topographical Engineers, United States + Army, 1846.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ Hon. W. F. Arny, in his + Centennial Celebration Address at Santa Fe, July 4, 1876.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ Edwards, <i>Conquest of New + Mexico</i>.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ I think this is Bancroft's + idea.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ <i>Historical Sketches of + New Mexico</i>, L. Bradford Prince, late Chief Justice of New Mexico, + 1883.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ D. H. Coyner, 1847.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ He was travelling + parallel to the Old Santa Fe Trail all the time, but did not know it until + he was overtaken by a band of Kaw Indians.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ McKnight was murdered + south of the Arkansas by the Comanches in the winter of 1822.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ Chouteau's Island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ <i>Hennepin's Journal</i>.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ The line between the + United States and Mexico (or New Spain, as it was called) was defined by a + treaty negotiated in 1819, between the Chevalier de Onis, then Spanish + minister at Washington, and John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State. + According to its provisions, the boundary between Mexico and Louisiana, + which had been added to the Union, commenced with the river Sabine at its + entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, at about the twenty-ninth degree of + north latitude and the ninety-fourth degree of longitude, west from + Greenwich, and followed it as far as its junction with the Red River of + Natchitoches, which then served to mark the frontier up to the one + hundredth degree of west longitude, where the line ran directly north to + the Arkansas, which it followed to its source at the forty-second degree + of north latitude, whence another straight line was drawn up the same + parallel to the Pacific coast.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ This tribe kept up its + reputation under the dreaded Satanta, until 1868—a period of forty + years—when it was whipped into submission by the gallant Custer. + Satanta was its war chief, one of the most cruel savages the great plains + ever produced. He died a few years ago in the state prison of Texas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ McNess Creek is on the + old Cimarron Trail to Santa Fe, a little east of a line drawn south from + Bent's Fort.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ Mr. Bryant, of Kansas, + who died a few years ago, was one of the pioneers in the trade with Santa + Fe. Previous to his decease he wrote for a Kansas newspaper a narrative of + his first trip across the great plains; an interesting monograph of + hardship and suffering. For the use of this document I am indebted to Hon. + Sol. Miller, the editor of the journal in which it originally appeared. I + have also used very extensively the notes of Mr. William Y. Hitt, one of + the Bryant party, whose son kindly placed them at my disposal, and copied + liberally from the official report of Major Bennett Riley—afterward + the celebrated general of Mexican War fame, and for whom the Cavalry Depot + in Kansas is named; as also from the journal of Captain Philip St. George + Cooke, who accompanied Major Riley on his expedition.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ Chouteau's Island, at the + mouth of Sand Creek.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ Valley of the Upper + Arkansas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ About three miles east of + the town of Great Bend, Barton County, Kansas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ The Old Santa Fe Trail + crosses the creek some miles north of Hutchinson, and coincides with the + track again at the mouth of Walnut Creek, three miles east of Great Bend.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ There are many + conflicting accounts in regard to the sum Don Antonio carried with him on + that unfortunate trip. Some authorities put it as high as sixty thousand; + I have taken a mean of the various sums, and as this method will suffice + in mathematics, perhaps we can approximate the truth in this instance.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ General Emory of the + Union army during the Civil War. He made an official report of the country + through which the Army of the West passed, accompanied by maps, and his <i>Reconnoissance + in New Mexico and California</i>, published by the government in 1848, is + the first authentic record of the region, considered topographically and + geologically.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ <i>Doniphan's Expedition, + containing an account of the Conquest of New Mexico</i>, etc. John T. + Hughes, A.B., of the First Regiment of Missouri Cavalry. 1850.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ Deep Gorge.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ Colonel Leavenworth, for + whom Fort Leavenworth is named, and who built several army posts in the + far West.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ Colonel A. G. Boone, a + grandson of the immortal Daniel, was one of the grandest old mountaineers + I ever knew. He was as loyal as anybody, but honest in his dealings with + the Indians, and that was often a fault in the eyes of those at Washington + who controlled these agents. Kit Carson was of the same honest class as + Boone, and he, too, was removed for the same cause.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ A narrow defile on the + Trail, about ninety miles east of Fort Union. It is called the "canyon of + the Canadian, or Red, River," and is situated between high walls of earth + and rock. It was once a very dangerous spot on account of the ease and + rapidity with which the savages could ambush themselves.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ Carson, Wooton, and all + other expert mountaineers, when following a trail, could always tell just + what time had elapsed since it was made. This may seem strange to the + uninitiated, but it was part of their necessary education. They could tell + what kind of a track it was, which way the person or animal had walked, + and even the tribe to which the savage belonged, either by the shape of + the moccasin or the arrows which were occasionally dropped.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ Lieutenant Bell belonged + to the Second Dragoons. He was conspicuous in extraordinary marches and in + action, and also an accomplished horseman and shot, once running and + killing five buffalo in a quarter of a mile. He died early in 1861, and + his death was a great loss to the service.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ Known to this day as "The + Cheyenne Bottoms."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-34" id="linknote-34"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#linknoteref-34">return</a>)<br /> [ Lone Wolf was really the + head chief of the Kiowas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ The battle lasted three + days.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-36" id="linknote-36"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#linknoteref-36">return</a>)<br /> [ Kicking Bird was ever + afterward so regarded by the authorities of the Indian department.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-37" id="linknote-37"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#linknoteref-37">return</a>)<br /> [ Lorenzo Thomas, + adjutant-general of the United States army.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-38" id="linknote-38"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#linknoteref-38">return</a>)<br /> [ Kendall's <i>Santa Fe + Expedition</i> may be found in all the large libraries.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-39" id="linknote-39"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#linknoteref-39">return</a>)<br /> [ A summer-house, bower, or + arbour.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-40" id="linknote-40"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#linknoteref-40">return</a>)<br /> [ Frank Hall, Chicago, + 1885.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-41" id="linknote-41"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#linknoteref-41">return</a>)<br /> [ The greater portion of + this chapter I originally wrote for <i>Harper's Weekly</i>. By the kind + permission of the publishers, I am permitted to use it here.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-42" id="linknote-42"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#linknoteref-42">return</a>)<br /> [ These statistics I have + carefully gathered from the freight departments of the railroads, which + kept a record of all the bones that were shipped, and from the purchasers + of the carbon works, who paid out the money at various points. Some of the + bones, however, may have been on the ground for a longer time, as decay is + very slow in the dry air of the plains.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-43" id="linknote-43"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#linknoteref-43">return</a>)<br /> [ La Jeunesse was one of + the bravest of the old French Canadian trappers. He was a warm friend of + Kit Carson and was killed by the Indians in the following manner. They + were camping one night in the mountains; Kit, La Jeunesse, and others had + wrapped themselves up in their blankets near the fire, and were sleeping + soundly; Fremont sat up until after midnight reading letters he had + received from the United States, after finishing which, he, too, turned in + and fell asleep. Everything was quiet for a while, when Kit was awakened + by a noise that sounded like the stroke of an axe. Rising cautiously, he + discovered Indians in the camp; he gave the alarm at once, but two of his + companions were dead. One of them was La Jeunesse, and the noise he had + heard was the tomahawk as it buried itself in the brave fellow's head.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-44" id="linknote-44"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#linknoteref-44">return</a>)<br /> [ This black is made from a + species of plumbago found on the hills of the region.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-45" id="linknote-45"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#linknoteref-45">return</a>)<br /> [ The Pawnees and Cheyennes + were hereditary enemies, and they frequently met in sanguinary conflict.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-46" id="linknote-46"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#linknoteref-46">return</a>)<br /> [ A French term Anglicised, + as were many other foreign words by the trappers in the mountains. Its + literal meaning is, arrow fender, for from it the plains Indians construct + their shields; it is buffalo-hide prepared in a certain manner.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-47" id="linknote-47"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#linknoteref-47">return</a>)<br /> [ Boiling Spring River.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-48" id="linknote-48"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#linknoteref-48">return</a>)<br /> [ For some reason the + Senate refused to confirm the appointment, and he had consequently no + connection with the regular army.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-49" id="linknote-49"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#linknoteref-49">return</a>)<br /> [ Point of Rocks is six + hundred and forty seven miles from Independence, and was always a + favourite place of resort for the Indians of the great plains; + consequently it was one of the most dangerous camping-spots for the + freight caravans on the Trail. It comprises a series of continuous hills, + which project far out on the prairie in bold relief. They end abruptly in + a mass of rocks, out of which gushes a cold, refreshing spring, which is, + of course, the main attraction of the place. The Trail winds about near + this point, and many encounters with the various tribes have occurred + there.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-50" id="linknote-50"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#linknoteref-50">return</a>)<br /> [ "Little Mountain."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-51" id="linknote-51"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#linknoteref-51">return</a>)<br /> [ General Gatlin was a + North Carolinian, and seceded with his State at the breaking out of the + Rebellion, but refused to leave his native heath to fight, so indelibly + was he impressed with the theory of State rights. He was willing to defend + the soil of North Carolina, but declined to step across its boundary to + repel invasion in other States.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-52" id="linknote-52"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#linknoteref-52">return</a>)<br /> [ The name of "Crow," as + applied to the once powerful nation of mountain Indians, is a misnomer, + the fault of some early interpreter. The proper appellation is + "Sparrowhawks," but they are officially recognized as "Crows."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-53" id="linknote-53"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#linknoteref-53">return</a>)<br /> [ Kit Carson, ten years + before, when on his first journey, met with the same adventure while on + post at Pawnee Rock.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-54" id="linknote-54"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#linknoteref-54">return</a>)<br /> [ The fusee was a fire-lock + musket with an immense bore, from which either slugs or balls could be + shot, although not with any great degree of accuracy.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-55" id="linknote-55"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#linknoteref-55">return</a>)<br /> [ The Indians always knew + when the caravans were to pass certain points on the Trail, by their + runners or spies probably.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-56" id="linknote-56"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#linknoteref-56">return</a>)<br /> [ It was one of the rigid + laws of Indian hospitality always to respect the person of any one who + voluntarily entered their camps or temporary halting-places. As long as + the stranger, red or white, remained with them, he enjoyed perfect + immunity from harm; but after he had left, although he had progressed but + half a mile, it was just as honourable to follow and kill him.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-57" id="linknote-57"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#linknoteref-57">return</a>)<br /> [ In their own fights with + their enemies one or two of the defeated party are always spared, and sent + back to their tribe to carry the news of the slaughter.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-58" id="linknote-58"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#linknoteref-58">return</a>)<br /> [ The story of the way in + which this name became corrupted into "Picketwire," by which it is + generally known in New Mexico, is this: When Spain owned all Mexico and + Florida, as the vast region of the Mississippi valley was called, long + before the United States had an existence as a separate government, the + commanding officer at Santa Fe received an order to open communication + with the country of Florida. For this purpose an infantry regiment was + selected. It left Santa Fe rather late in the season, and wintered at a + point on the Old Trail now known as Trinidad. In the spring, the colonel, + leaving all camp-followers behind him, both men and women, marched down + the stream, which flows for many miles through a magnificent canyon. Not + one of the regiment returned or was ever heard of. When all hope had + departed from the wives, children, and friends left behind at Trinidad, + information was sent to Santa Fe, and a wail went up through the land. The + priests and people then called this stream "El Rio de las Animas Perditas" + ("The river of lost souls"). Years after, when the Spanish power was + weakened, and French trappers came into the country under the auspices of + the great fur companies, they adopted a more concise name; they called the + river "Le Purgatoire." Then came the Great American Bull-Whacker. Utterly + unable to twist his tongue into any such Frenchified expression, he called + the stream with its sad story "Picketwire," and by that name it is known + to all frontiersmen, trappers, and the settlers along its banks.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-59" id="linknote-59"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#linknoteref-59">return</a>)<br /> [ The ranch is now in + charge of Mr. Harry Whigham, an English gentleman, who keeps up the old + hospitality of the famous place.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-60" id="linknote-60"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#linknoteref-60">return</a>)<br /> [ "River of Souls." The + stream is also called Le Purgatoire, corrupted by the Americans into + Picketwire.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-61" id="linknote-61"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#linknoteref-61">return</a>)<br /> [ Pawnee Rock is no longer + conspicuous. Its material has been torn away by both the railroad and the + settlers in the vicinity, to build foundations for water-tanks, in the one + instance, and for the construction of their houses, barns, and sheds, in + the other. Nothing remains of the once famous landmark; its site is + occupied as a cattle corral by the owner of the claim in which it is + included.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-62" id="linknote-62"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#linknoteref-62">return</a>)<br /> [ The crossing of the Old + Santa Fe Trail at Pawnee Fork is now within the corporate limits of the + pretty little town of Larned, the county-seat of Pawnee County. The + tourist from his car-window may look right down upon one of the worst + places for Indians that there was in those days of the commerce of the + prairies, as the road crosses the stream at the exact spot where the Trail + crossed it.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-63" id="linknote-63"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#linknoteref-63">return</a>)<br /> [ This was a favourite + expression of his whenever he referred to any trouble with the Indians.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-64" id="linknote-64"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#linknoteref-64">return</a>)<br /> [ Indians will risk the + lives of a dozen of their best warriors to prevent the body of any one of + their number from falling into the white man's possession. The reason for + this is the belief, which prevails among all tribes, that if a warrior + loses his scalp he forfeits his hope of ever reaching the happy + hunting-ground.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-65" id="linknote-65"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#linknoteref-65">return</a>)<br /> [ It was in this fight that + the infamous Charles Bent received his death-wound.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-66" id="linknote-66"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#linknoteref-66">return</a>)<br /> [ The Atchison, Topeka, and + Santa Fe Railroad track runs very close to the mound, and there is a + station named for the great mesa.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-67" id="linknote-67"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#linknoteref-67">return</a>)<br /> [ The venerable Colonel A. + S. Johnson, of Topeka, Kansas, the first white child born on the great + State's soil, who related to me this adventure of Hatcher's, knew him + well. He says that he was a small man, full of muscle, and as fearless as + can be conceived.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-68" id="linknote-68"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#linknoteref-68">return</a>)<br /> [ The place where they + turned is about a hundred yards east of the Court House Square, in the + present town of Great Bend; it may be seen from the cars.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-69" id="linknote-69"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#linknoteref-69">return</a>)<br /> [ See Sheridan's <i>Memoirs</i>, + Custer's <i>Life on the Plains</i>, and Buffalo Bill's book, in which all + the stirring events of that campaign—nearly every fight of which was + north or far south of the Santa Fe Trail—are graphically told.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-70" id="linknote-70"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#linknoteref-70">return</a>)<br /> [ A grandson of Alexander + Hamilton; killed at the battle of the Washita, in the charge on Black + Kettle's camp under Custer.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-71" id="linknote-71"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#linknoteref-71">return</a>)<br /> [ This ends Custer's + narrative. The following fight, which occurred a few days afterward, at + the mouth of Mulberry Creek, twelve miles below Fort Dodge, and within a + stone's throw of the Old Trail, was related to me personally by Colonel + Keogh, who was killed at the Rosebud, in Custer's disastrous battle with + Sitting Bull. We were both attached to General Sully's staff.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-72" id="linknote-72"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#linknoteref-72">return</a>)<br /> [ It was in this fight that + Colonel Keogh's celebrated horse Comanche received his first wound. It + will be remembered that Comanche and a Crow Indian were the only survivors + of that unequal contest in the valley of the Big Horn, commonly called the + battle of the Rosebud, where Custer and his command was massacred.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-73" id="linknote-73"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#linknoteref-73">return</a>)<br /> [ Now Kendall, a little + village in Hamilton County, Kansas.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-74" id="linknote-74"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#linknoteref-74">return</a>)<br /> [ Raton is the name given + by the early Spaniards to this range, meaning both mouse and squirrel. It + had its origin either in the fact that one of its several peaks bore a + fanciful resemblance to a squirrel, or because of the immense numbers of + that little rodent always to be found in its pine forests.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-75" id="linknote-75"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#linknoteref-75">return</a>)<br /> [ In the beautiful language + of the country's early conquerors, "Las Cumbres Espanolas," or "Las dos + Hermanas" (The Two Sisters), and in the Ute tongue, "Wahtoya" (The + Twins).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-76" id="linknote-76"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#linknoteref-76">return</a>)<br /> [ The house was destroyed + by fire two or three years ago.] + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Old Santa Fe Trail, by Henry Inman + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL *** + +***** This file should be named 7984-h.htm or 7984-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/9/8/7984/ + +Produced by Michael S. 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