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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79410 ***
+[Illustration: THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
+
+_Frontispiece_, vol. ii.]
+
+
+                                ABEOKUTA
+                                  AND
+                        THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
+
+                            An Exploration.
+
+                                   BY
+                           RICHARD F. BURTON,
+ VICE PRES. ANTHROP. SOC. OF LONDON; GOLD MEDALLIST, GEOG. SOCS., PARIS
+                              AND LONDON;
+      F.R.G.S. LONDON; M.A.S.; M.A.S. BOMBAY; M. ETHNO. S. LONDON.
+
+ “Geography, though an earthly study, is a heavenly subject.”—_Burke._
+
+                           _IN TWO VOLUMES._
+
+                                VOL. II.
+
+                                LONDON:
+             TINSLEY BROTHERS, 18 CATHERINE STREET, STRAND.
+                                 1863.
+
+               [_The right of Translation is reserved._]
+
+
+   LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING
+                                 CROSS.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                             CHAPTER IX.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+  DIPLOMACY; DEPARTURE, AND RETURN TO LAGOS                            1
+
+                      THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
+
+                             CHAPTER I.
+
+  PRELIMINARIES OF EXPLORATION                                        25
+
+                             CHAPTER II.
+
+  WE ENCAMP AT ‘MANN’S SPRING’                                        75
+
+                            CHAPTER III.
+
+  FIRST ASCENT OF PICO GRANDE                                        133
+
+                            CHAPTER IV.
+
+  SUBSEQUENT ASCENTS BY MESSRS. CALVO, SAKER, AND MANN               162
+
+                            CHAPTER V.
+
+  THE FINAL ASCENT                                                   182
+
+                           CHAPTER VI.
+
+  RETURN TO FERNANDO PO                                              218
+
+                           APPENDICES.
+
+    I. MR. GRAZILHIER’S DESCRIPTION OF THE AMBOZES COUNTRY           235
+
+   II. MR. MERRICK’S TOUR IN WEST AFRICA                             238
+
+  III. FLORA OF THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS, OF CLARENCE PEAK,
+       FERNANDO PO, AND OF THE PEAK OF SAN THOMÉ                     270
+
+   IV. NOTES ON THE FAUNA OF THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS                 278
+
+    V. REPORTS AND LETTERS TOUCHING AMBAS BAY                        286
+
+   VI. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS                                   294
+
+  VII. HYPSOMETRICAL TABLE                                           303
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS
+
+_London, Tinsley, Brothers, Catherine Street._]
+
+
+                                ABEOKUTA
+                                  AND
+                        THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+
+               DIPLOMACY; DEPARTURE, AND RETURN TO LAGOS.
+
+
+‘The Captain’ advanced swimmingly in his diplomatic movements, much to
+his own satisfaction. But this is a race equally regardless of the past
+and reckless of the future, with whom the present is ever all in all,
+and actual life the ‘be-all and end-all of all things:’ their brains are
+in matters of novelty marble to receive and wax to retain: nothing, if
+to be permanent, can be done in a hurry, or, rather, without a long
+delay: they forget all that has not been impressed upon them by many
+repetitions, and they regard what Englishmen call a ‘business-like
+manner’ with a supreme contempt. ‘He does half who does quickly,’ should
+be the Anglo-African’s rule.
+
+Wednesday was a holiday; Thursday had its work. About 10·30 A.M. we
+proceeded to the ‘palace,’ where we were to be honoured with a private
+interview. This time we came ‘in mufti’ as friendly visitors; the
+demands of dignity had been satisfied; it was no longer necessary to
+keep us waiting or to send us back. Passing, as before, under the main
+entrance into the great patio, we entered the smaller and interior
+court, and sat down in the verandah where former audiences had been
+held. The hangings and draperies having been removed, we saw certain
+daubs like hatchments on the walls, placed to show where the Alake’s
+father and mother reposed: they were apparently intended for the human
+form divine, but they were too blurred and smoked to be readily
+distinguished. After sitting for a short time we were summoned into the
+interior. We dived under the verandah, and after a moment of _demi-jour_
+we emerged into a room where the Alake was waiting to receive us.
+
+The room was a complete Roman atrium—a style of architecture for which I
+can assign no reason in these climates. The hypæthral portion, where the
+mid-ceiling might be expected, was garnished with a large inverted cone
+of mat and thatch, which would direct the rain into the rude impluvium,
+a parallelogram sunk in the clay. Beneath it various doors opened into
+other minor rooms, and the walls were painted with the usual mixture of
+horse or cow dung and indigo. Above the great man’s place were hung ten
+Tower muskets, and a leopard’s skin so pale and pink that it might be
+mistaken for an ounce’s.
+
+The Alake lay upon a plain carpet in an alcove at the head of the room,
+and four scattered feathers dangling to a bit of twine above him
+appeared to be his protecting fetish. There were no hangings, and his
+elbow rested upon a common bolster. He was more plainly and comfortably
+attired than usual, in a red fez without beads, with blue and red
+chequered cloths round his middle, the rest of the body being exposed to
+the abebe, or hide-fans of his wives. Besides the interpreters, four
+chiefs were present, namely, the two Akpesi, a stout personage called
+Okolomo, and a gray senior, the Lemo of the Ikporo township—each dirty
+little village has here its own dignitaries, and the number of titles
+seems endless. The great men, such as Somoye the Ibashorun, Osho the
+Oja’a or General, and Akodu the Balogun, were at the camp: these
+dignitaries, when not consulted upon public measures, especially foreign
+affairs, can, and probably will, object to everything done without their
+leave. The principal ministers—the ‘setters up and pullers down of
+kings,’—such as Ogubonna, Shokeno, and Ogushaye the Anaba, are, alas! no
+more.
+
+The conference was manifestly intended to be private—for a good reason,
+it might afterwards, when necessary, be ignored. It began with much
+mystery, and all who entered were dismissed with some indignity.
+Presently, however, it was gradually broken into by women, children, and
+confidential slaves. It reminded me of the confabulations of the Sindh
+Ameers, who on such occasions of _haute politique_ stationed guards
+round their council-chamber to keep off eaves-droppers, and soon
+becoming excited, bawled so loud that they could be heard a mile off.
+
+The talkee-talkee lasted about two hours. When the palaver flagged a
+deal table was brought in, and Abeokuta Williams, the pedagogue,
+indited, under dictation, a letter of apology to the acting governor of
+Lagos. The new treaty was then copied out in triplicate and signed with
+all formality. Commander Bedingfield wrote the names and marks, whilst
+the Alake and the two Akpesi, grinning as if on a funny occasion—were I
+in their waist-cloths no grin would have come from me—touched the pen’s
+end with the finger tip, and thereby legalized an instrument couched as
+follows:—
+
+
+                                TREATY.
+
+‘In consequence of the representations of Commander Norman B.
+Bedingfield, R.N., Senior Officer of the Bights Division of H.M.’s
+ships, the Alake and the chiefs of Ake express their regret that there
+should have been occasion for the complaint of their want of faith in
+keeping the treaty made between them and H.M.’s Government by Capt.
+Forbes in 1852.[1]
+
+‘They now solemnly declare that the three articles mentioned below, and
+to which they have now affixed their names, shall be strictly enforced
+for the future, and be at once made public.
+
+‘1st. With a view of strictly enforcing the 1st Article of the above-
+mentioned treaty, the Alake and chiefs hereby promise to stop the roads
+leading to Okeadon and other places by which slaves are sent to the
+coast for exportation against such export as far as it is in their
+power; and they will also punish severely any of their own people
+against whom it can be proved that they have broken this law.
+
+‘2nd. The Alake and chiefs also solemnly declare that now and after this
+date no human being shall be sacrificed either by them, their people, or
+others inside or outside the walls of the town, or anywhere else in
+their territory.
+
+‘3rd. It having been fully explained to the Alake and chiefs by
+Commander Bedingfield the injury caused to legal commerce by shutting
+the road between Lagos and Abeokuta, out of friendship to the Queen of
+England they are willing to promise that this road shall never again be
+stopped on any pretext whatever, without the consent and approval of
+H.M.’s Governor at Lagos: provided always, that when it is deemed
+expedient to prevent the Egbas from going to Lagos, the merchants must
+provide themselves with canoe men from that place.
+
+   ‘Signed at the King’s Palace, this seventh day of November, 1861.
+
+                   his
+  (Signed)   ‘THE   +   ALAKE.
+                  mark.
+
+                     his
+  (Signed)   ‘APESI   +   KEMETA.
+                    mark.
+
+                    his
+  (Signed)   ‘LEMO   +   TROCU.
+                   mark.
+
+                     his
+  (Signed)   ‘APESI   +   ERUNOON.
+                    mark.
+
+                       his
+  (Signed)   ‘OKOLOMO   +
+                      mark.
+
+  (Signed)   ‘NORMAN B. BEDINGFIELD,
+                 Commander, R.N., Senior Officer for the Bights
+                         Division of H.M.’s Ships.
+
+  (Signed)   ‘RICHARD F. BURTON,
+                Captain, H.B.M.’s Consul, Fernando Po.
+
+  (Signed)   ‘HENRY EALES,
+                  Surgeon, H.M.’s Ship “Prometheus.”
+
+  (Signed)   ‘DAVID WILLIAMS,
+                 acting as Secretary to the Alake, witness
+                       to the above signatures.
+
+  (Signed)   ‘S. WILLIAMS,
+                        Interpreter.’
+
+It would hardly be believed that within the week after our return to
+Lagos a letter was received from Abeokuta confessing that a human
+sacrifice had taken place in broad daylight, and that some women had
+been kidnapped from the house of a Mr. King. The reason of the Alake and
+chiefs reporting these breaches of faith was their conviction that the
+news would go abroad, and the transaction be discovered, if not
+communicated by themselves. The misdeeds were not punished. The fact is,
+the subjects are too powerful for the sovereign.
+
+[_Note._—The following is a copy of the original treaty concluded with
+the chief of the Egba nation, 5th Jan. 1852, and abridged from
+‘Hertslet’s Commercial Treaties,’ vol. ix.:—
+
+Frederick Edwyn Forbes, Esq., Additional Commander of H.M.S. ‘Penelope,’
+on the part of Her Majesty the Queen of England, to the chiefs of the
+Egba nation and of the neighbourhood, on the part of themselves and of
+their country have agreed upon the following Articles and Conditions:—
+
+I. Prohibits export of slaves to foreign countries under severe
+punishment.
+
+II. No slave-traders to reside in territory of the king or chiefs of
+Lagos, and no buildings to be erected for the purpose of slave-trade;
+with permission to British officers to destroy such if the king
+consents.
+
+III. Boats engaged in such slave-trade may be seized by British
+officers.
+
+IV. Slaves for exportation shall be delivered to British for conveyance
+to British colonies, where they shall be liberated.
+
+V. European slave treaty to be respected, and slave factories if not
+converted to lawful purposes within three months to be destroyed.
+
+VI. British subjects may buy and sell throughout dominions, and have
+favours and privileges of most favoured nation.
+
+VII. _Abolishes human sacrifices for religious purposes_, and prisoners
+taken in war not to be murdered.
+
+VIII. Affords complete protection to missionaries; allows houses,
+schools, and chapels to be built by missionaries or ministers, and sets
+apart places of sepulture.
+
+IX. Power reserved to French Government to become party to the treaty,
+agreeably with provisions contained in Art. V. of the convention between
+Her Majesty and the King of the French for the suppression of the
+traffic in slaves, signed at London, May 29, 1845.
+
+In faith of which we have hereunto set our hands and seals at Abe, 5
+Jan. 1852.
+
+              (L. S.)     F. E. FORBES,
+
+  SAGBUA.   OBASARON.   OGUBONNA.   SIKENO.
+
+                            _Presidents of Abeokuta, or the Egba race._
+
+  TAMBALA, _Bulagon of Ikerehu._   AKIONME _for_ ARROBA, _Egba Agorra._
+
+  IMEMUNU, _Owu._                  LAGEMO, _Owe_.
+
+
+                         SUPPLEMENTARY TREATY.
+
+ART. I. That Sierra Leone emigrants, natives of whatsoever country, are
+not allowed to be kidnapped.
+
+ART. II. That we will not attempt to hinder the advance of missionaries,
+merchants, or others into the interior.
+
+In faith of which we have hereunto set our hands and seals at Abe, 5
+Jan. 1852.
+
+Signed and sealed by the same parties.]
+
+We then took formal leave. I can scarcely, however, quote on this
+occasion,
+
+
+  ‘Such partings break the heart they fondly hope to heal.’
+
+
+In good sooth we all seemed heartily glad to get rid of one other and of
+the whole business. In return for some little presents the Alake
+presented ‘the captain’ with a horse, which was supposed to be rather a
+superior animal. It was afterwards taken to Lagos, and sold. With due
+deference to superior judgment, I cannot but think that this part of the
+proceedings was a complete mistake. A present of provisions from an
+African chief or king must often be received, as its rejection would be
+deemed an insult, and an equivalent is easily sent back. But the rule
+which applies to all gifts of horses, arms, and jewellery in India ought
+equally to be carried out at the native courts in this part of the
+world. And, at all events, the sale of such present would be looked
+upon, not as a slight to the donor, but as a mark of bad breeding in the
+donee.
+
+We had entered Abeokuta on Friday, the 1st, and Friday, the 8th of
+November, 1861, was to witness our departure—bad days both. The captain
+had, or fondly supposed that he had, succeeded in the principal objects
+of his mission, the three points of the new treaty, viz., the opening to
+Lagos of the Ogun River—which presently became tightly closed; the
+cessation of human sacrifice—which will not cease till the ‘screw’ is
+‘turned on’ much more tightly; and, lastly, the abolition of the export
+slave trade—which requires to rest upon a much stronger basis than the
+mere marks of a petty barbarian prince and his chiefs.
+
+‘_L’homme sensible en voyage_,’ says M. Boiste, ‘_est tenté de s’arrêter
+chez les premières bonnes gens qu’il trouve: chaque départ lui devient
+un supplice_.’ This was not quite our case, for Abeokuta was becoming of
+an almost intolerable dulness: we took regretful leave, however, of our
+hospitable entertainers. At 9 A.M. Commander Bedingfield and I
+walked—without cavalcade—to the Aro Gate, accompanied by Mr. Hughes, and
+closely followed by Mr. Eales and Messrs. Harrison and Wike. The luggage
+had been sent down in the morning, and the first and second gigs had
+been drawn up from midstream, where they had anchored, to the landing-
+place. A wild beast of a Yoruba pony charged down upon me, and the
+umbrella with which the attack was received nearly put my eye out:
+considering, however, that it was Friday, I congratulated myself upon a
+very pretty escape. A final libation to Bacchus was poured out, and
+after another shaking of hands we found ourselves once more upon the
+broad bosom of Father Ogun.
+
+The stream is essentially a rain river, filling gradually and uniformly,
+without freshets. During the last week, though there had been three
+heavy down falls, it had sunk several inches, a sure sign that the
+‘dries’ were setting in. The deeper pools were like the beads of a
+chaplet connected by a thread of shallows, and the boat, though drawing
+barely a foot, touched bottom on each middle ground as we crossed the
+sandbanks joining the salient and the re-entering angles. Almost within
+sight of Aro we shot a little rapid, a clear way in a ridge of rocks,
+which seemed to rise under both bows. At 11·30 A.M. we dropped past
+Agbameya, the lower port or landing-place of Abeokuta: the ferry, where
+people are sometimes drowned, was in full activity, and the market-wives
+left their blies and baskets of maize and manioc, kankie and fufu, to
+stare at the departing strangers. Another hour, and we were alongside of
+Moroko, where on the up voyage we had halted for a pleasant breakfast.
+Another brought us to Takpana, where the naked nigger boys would bathe
+with their mammas and sisters, who apparently do not believe that
+
+
+  ‘The chariest maid is prodigal enough
+
+   If she disclose her beauties to the moon.’
+
+
+Our Krumen found it necessary to lie upon their oars, and to ‘chop
+water’ every half-hour, which rendered progress slow. Down-stream,
+however, was very different ‘challing’ from up-stream. We reached Baragu
+about 7·30 P.M.; it was black dark, and the number of cross ropes
+rendered the navigation of the river peculiarly troublesome after the
+short twilight had been extinguished by the gloom.
+
+We spent a right merry evening at Baragu, where the head-man cleared out
+for us the verandah of a large fetish-house, which showed through the
+bamboo walls the usual number of ugly little dolls, enshrined in a large
+bare room. The Baraguans, however, must be a somewhat bigoted race. They
+would not allow us to set foot within the sanctuary, an unpleasant
+contrast with the Rationalists of Mabban. The male population squatted
+round to see ‘the captain’s’ hammock-lines made taut, and the fairer
+sex, which still displayed the _vis superba formæ_—in figure, not in
+face—formed an outer ring. A drum soon made its appearance, and after we
+had passed round a social glass of toast, rum, and gin, the merriment
+waxed fast and furious. There was singing, feasting, and dancing; in
+fact, quite an African ‘swarry,’ only lacking the mutton and caper
+sauce. Our hosts were perfectly civil and obliging, and so were our
+hostesses—rather too much so I could prove, if privileged to whisper
+into the reader’s ear. But what would Mrs. Grundy say? The night was
+soft and balmy; after the reeking sunny day, we enjoyed the refreshing
+season of rest, and the verandah floor, though not without knots, was
+more satisfactory than a feather bed in the best bedroom of ——. Upon the
+whole, our trip was decidedly ‘jolly.’
+
+On Saturday, the 9th, we arose betimes, and left Baragu at 5·30 A.M.,
+before any of the revellers were awake: these people have the good sense
+to sleep as long as they can. The river-fog was as dense and clammy as
+ever; the snags were numerous; so were the ropes, and we were obliged to
+row carefully for fear of an upset. About sunrise we halted for a few
+minutes at Illugu, where the ill-fated Sancho (pronounced Sanco) had
+strayed from his mourning owner. The Krumen went up to the village, and
+inquired concerning that amiable but mangy animal—in vain; our pleasant
+companion had probably found a living grave in the bread-basket of some
+hard-iliac’d Illaguan—the canine _salmi_ is relished by these races—and
+we left the fatal spot with spirits sadly depressed.
+
+Halting for breakfast at Igaon, we had the satisfaction of finding Mr.
+and Mrs. Johnson in the very best of health. The head-man brought us a
+fowl, for which he demanded rum or a head of cowries; he then begged for
+something to eat, and was told that it was his duty to take in, not to
+let in the stranger. He was also warned that sundry complaints against
+him had been sent to Lagos, and that he must no longer levy ‘black mail’
+upon travellers and canoe-men going up the river. Our stay was short;
+the rum was ended, and the claret running very low; we were naturally
+anxious to arrive at a place of plenty—Lagos. There is one advantage in
+these excursions. Although the _jeunesse dorée_ of Abeokuta looks upon
+that sea-port much as the English young woman from the country-house
+regards the season and the great matrimonial bazar of London, I had
+hitherto held it to be the last and lowest of created places, save and
+except only Fernando Po. Twelve days of sweltering at ‘Understone’ had
+so modified my views, that it now rose before the mental eye as the home
+of comfort and luxury. Thus Saadi’s philosopher cured his slave of
+howling with terror in the boat by throwing him for a few minutes into
+the sea.
+
+We left Igaon at 8·40 A.M., and after passing sundry settlements, which
+were not exactly like
+
+
+  ‘Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain,’
+
+
+we halted off the mouth of the Agboi Creek to await Mr. Eales in the
+second gig. Commander Bedingfield and I determined to inspect the longer
+route, _viâ_ the main stream, and the ‘doctor’ was equally resolved to
+reach head-quarters with the least possible delay.
+
+At 10·30 A.M. we parted, and struck in the first gig down the lower
+Ogun. It rapidly narrowed, and in places widened out again. The banks on
+both sides were thickly forested, and we judged from the number of the
+paths abutting upon the water that many villages must be scattered
+through the bush. The river appeared, however, almost deserted; hardly a
+canoe was upon its waters, and the windings at times threatened a return
+to ‘Understone.’ The fishing-ropes also were many and troublesome; being
+thinner than those in the upper stream, they more than once unshipped
+our rudder. About half-way we passed on the right a wretched fishing-
+village—six huts, mere wattlings, thatched with palm-leaves, raised on
+piles above the inundation, redolent of squalor, and surrounded by filth
+and fetid mud. We asked its name, and were told ‘Ojogu.’
+
+Advancing, we found that as we neared the mouth the river narrowed. Such
+is frequently the case in these regions, where the beds of streams want
+slope, and where the soppy ground, half-reclaimed from the waves,
+absorbs the greater part of the down-flow. For the reverse reason, the
+head or upper waters are, for the most part, mill-torrents. We were
+fortunate enough to meet a canoe at a critical point where the Ogun
+falls; the left appeared to be the larger branch, but it terminated in a
+_cul de sac_. Taking the right, we bade leave to forest trees, in which
+the long-tailed monkeys were disporting themselves, ascending the
+topmost boughs for the benefit of their health, and cautiously and
+curiously walking along the horizontal branches, to enjoy, as we went
+by, a better reconnoitre of their ‘big brothers.’ Presently we entered
+the mangrove forest, whose aërial roots, a conework of props converging
+where the trunk springs, must often have been upwards of fifteen feet
+high; it is not improbable that they suggested to the first African the
+idea of the first hut. In some places, especially at the bifurcation of
+the river, the trees were so high and thick that they suggested the idea
+of a raised bank—a frequent formation near the courses of West African
+creeks and rivers. It is probably caused by the vegetation being based
+upon a firmer soil, not upon the soft mud in which the smaller and more
+scrubby mangrove delights.
+
+We came to the conclusion that the line of the main river was
+considerably longer than that of the Agboi Creek, and the eastern sweep
+of the former, compared with the regular northing of the latter,
+justified it. Presently the mangroves lessened in size, and the stream
+narrowed to a few yards: it was so thickly banked with tall, light-green
+grasses and aquatic plants that the oars could hardly work, and we
+anticipated the pleasing task of turning back. A short furlong, however,
+exposed the broad and well-known face of the Ikoradu water, which we
+greeted as if it had been a firm friend, instead of a fierce enemy, to
+the white man. According to all local authorities, Father Ogun, until
+quite lately, boasted of a broad and open mouth, such as becomes a
+sacred stream; of late years it has apparently been blocked up by its
+own growth. This must greatly reduce its value; none but the smallest of
+river tugs could plough a way through the tangled entrance; and thus
+communication on an extensive scale between Lagos and Abeokuta will be
+confined to canoes, roads, tramways, and eventually the rail.
+
+Exactly at noon we found ourselves in the lagoon. The coast here forms a
+deep, narrow bight, with a comparatively high and a densely-wooded
+point, extending far out on each side. To our left, or westward, lay the
+market-place or bazar, where the bushfolk and the citizens of Ikoradu
+meet every eight days. There were a few tattered huts, all at that time
+deserted. They are about half an hour’s walk from the town. The way is a
+deep rut in the red clay, forming during the rains a rivulet
+unmanageable to any nag but a Yoruban, and at all times tiresome to
+English feet and ankles. The land is a mass of impenetrable vegetation,
+where no umbrella is wanted till within a few yards of the habitations.
+On a subsequent occasion I visited it with Mr. M‘Coskry, and found it to
+be the normal Yoruba settlement, girt with clay wall and dry ditch, and
+gates like bungalows for the accommodation of the guards. The interior
+was a _rus in urbe_, containing much more jungle than house. The only
+semi-civilized being seemed to be a native teacher stationed there for
+propagandist purposes. Formerly it was committed to the charge of M.
+Flad, a German missionary. The people were by no means startled by the
+weird apparition—and none but the smallboys showed emotion—and we were
+allowed to saunter into and about the open Ogboni lodge, whose inmates
+we inspected with that nonchalant stare peculiar to Britons and to the
+higher order of savages. ‘Produce me,’ said Mr. Jollins, ‘a respectable
+inhabitant of an English country town, and I will match him in the
+matter of solid and silent staring against any man over the whole
+surface of the world.’ On another and a subsequent occasion, however,
+the burghers of Ikoradu town were not so civil to a party of more
+dignified visitors, and if rumour speak truth, their town somewhat
+narrowly escaped a summary bombardment.
+
+Return we to the first gig, which was in no pleasant plight, as she
+emerged from the embrace of Father Ogun. The sea-breeze blew steadily in
+our faces, and the tide ran strong against us. We were still seven miles
+from Lagos, and our progress was painfully slow, chiefly owing, said
+‘the captain,’ to the size and the obstinacy of my umbrella. As we
+progressed, a new appearance was noticed in the water, which was verdant
+with a substance apparently floating up with the tide. The material was
+disposed in clots, lumps, and balls, varying in size from a pin’s head
+to a grape-shot, which when taken in the hand, proved to be slimy and
+soft, like agglomerations of decayed vegetable matter. We afterwards
+found the beach at Lagos pea-green with several inches of the deposit,
+which, after drying in the sun, emitted a most peculiar and offensive
+odour.[2] The thermometer showed 6° (Fah.) higher than usual, and the
+sea breeze, which usually sets in at 11 A.M., delayed till the
+afternoon: there was no change in the barometer. The deposit was first
+remarked on November 8th, and the merchants lost no time in removing it
+from their ‘beaches.’ The old hands, however, began to presage evil, and
+their predictions were accomplished but too well. Out of ninety-eight
+English crew, H.M.S. ‘Prometheus’ had lost during twenty-three months
+only two men from fever, and during the last third of the year, when she
+had been lying off Lagos, exposed to all its evil influences, there was
+only one decidedly febrile case on board. But these climates are
+treacherous beyond description. Immediately after the appearance above
+noticed, the sick began to flock in apace; we heard first of one death,
+then a second,—whilst twelve bad cases were reported. Before the end of
+December there were one hundred and seven fevers, intermittent,
+remittent, and continued: between 14th of November and December 3rd, no
+less than forty-eight were on the sick list. Finally, after a few weeks,
+except one old quartermaster there was not a ‘Promethean’ who had not
+had fever; and it was only by removal to Ascension Island, where fifty-
+seven men were sent, that the lives of the crew were saved.
+
+At 1 P.M. we sighted the second gig emerging from the Agboi creek. We
+flattered ourselves that her course would be a hypothenuse, and much we
+prayed that she might ground or stick; but Jupiter turned a deaf ear—she
+beat us by a good half-hour. Doubtless that umbrella! Our Krumen were
+urged to exertion by an awful-looking cloud, a purple black pall, with a
+broad, white arch, that seemed to open a gateway for the coming blasts,
+and the mass rose steadily against the wind, which presently fell to a
+calm. At 5 P.M. we landed, after twelve days’ absence, at Lagos,
+somewhat wiser if not better men. After passing—
+
+
+  ‘Per varios casus, per tot discrimina rerum—’
+
+
+all on a very small scale, I reinstated myself with a lively sensation
+of pleasure in the old quarters at the house of my kind and hospitable
+friend, M‘Coskry, where it was easy to forget the minute discomforts and
+inconveniences of our Flying Visit to Abeokuta.
+
+
+                                L’ENVOI.
+
+
+Yoruba, as the list of its trade articles proves, may in time become a
+valuable possession, and its sole important port, Lagos, is now in our
+hands. The seaboard will supply large quantities of palm oil; the
+interior is rich in shea butter, ivory, and, if due encouragement be
+given, a certain amount of cotton. The gossipium, even wild, is, and I
+believe always will be, better than the best crop ever grown in India.
+The transit is shorter, and should be less costly. At present, however,
+there is a want of population, resulting from three causes—human
+sacrifice, slave exporting, and petty wars.
+
+Human sacrifice does not absorb much of the population; but it points to
+habits of destruction, and to a moral degradation which cannot but be
+prejudicial to the increase of a birth rate. Slave export still thrives
+in the Bight of Benin: the Ijaye are said during the last two years to
+have lost 20,000 of their number, partly kidnapped for domestic slavery,
+partly exported to Cuba. Petty wars are at present the normal condition
+of the land, and the causes are so complicated, that nothing but _main
+forte_ can put them down. The Moslems of the Sudan, or Upper Nigerian
+regions, are pressing heavily upon the peoples of the South. The
+Yorubas, or non-maritime races, removed sixty miles from the seaboard,
+are fighting for free transit. The Egbas, or tribes lying between Yoruba
+and the coast, especially the Abeokutans, under pretence of recovering
+their ancestral homes, are contending for the monopoly of the road, and
+are aspiring to change honest labour for the lazy life of brokers or
+middlemen, like the townsmen at the mouth of the Oil Rivers in the Bight
+of Biafra. It is evident that, under such circumstances, regularity,
+which is the first requisite of the cotton crop, cannot be expected.
+
+The remedy for these various evils consists in stationing at Lagos a
+military force sufficiently strong to impose terms upon obstinate
+breakers of the public peace. As bygone details have proved, no
+extensive establishment is required; the force need not exceed six
+hundred men. At present, the people require a lesson: they own the
+superiority of the English by sea, but—the error is excusable—they still
+hold themselves to be on land the greatest warriors in the world. To
+consult economy rather than efficiency at Lagos, is—quoting an old
+saying—‘to throw good money after bad.’ The object of such a colony
+should be economy; to diminish the expense of a squadron which,
+including head-money for captured slaves, and other minor items, can
+hardly amount to less than one million of pounds sterling per annum.[3]
+As the West African coast comes more directly under our command, this
+disbursement may be reduced to one-tenth.
+
+We have now an excellent opportunity of trying a novel and modern
+experiment in colonization, and I sincerely hope that experience will
+have enabled us to steer clear of the errors and misconceptions that
+have operated so fatally upon our settlements at Bathurst and Sierra
+Leone. The latter is, indeed, a warning. If the exact reverse of
+everything that was done in the early part of the present century had
+been done, we might have seen a thriving and extensive colony of
+liberated negroes where now there is a wretched and degraded population
+of hucksters and idlers.[4]
+
+There need no longer be any objection to stationing European officials
+at Lagos. A future page will show that, within two days’ steam of that
+dangerous port, there is a mountain range which, with little labour, may
+be made a sanitarium for the whole coast of Western Intertropical
+Africa. Camaroons Mountain, where snow falls at times all the year
+round, and upon whose glorious summit the mercury sinks at night below
+zero at all seasons, is thus more easily and effectually connected with
+Lagos than the Mahabuleshwar Hill Station is with Bombay.
+
+I need hardly repeat the phrase _publicâ trita manu_, that if my
+exertions tend in any way to develop the resources of the West Coast of
+Africa, my expenditure of time and trouble will have been amply repaid.
+
+
+[Footnote 1: See _Note_ on page 7.]
+
+[Footnote 2: It appears at uncertain intervals about June, lining the
+beach and extending for some yards from the water. Mr. Eales found by
+the microscope that it was composed of animal and vegetable in different
+stages of decomposition, and gas was evolved, most probably sulphuretted
+and carburetted hydrogen.]
+
+[Footnote 3: A thoroughly efficient blockading squadron would consist of
+at least 13 steam-cruisers, besides a provision-ship, and a frigate for
+the Commodore’s flag, viz.:—
+
+  For the North Coast  3  | The Bight of Biafra  1
+                          |
+  The Bight of Benin   4  | The South Coast      5
+
+This is not more than the squadron which the French Government stations
+off Goree and St. Louis de Senegal, but I am convinced that the
+prevention of slavery would be more easily effected by land than by sea.
+The mere capture of slavers exasperates the evil by rendering other
+shipments necessary. The encouraging and supporting commerce, induces
+the people to turn their attention from illicit to licit traffic.]
+
+[Footnote 4: N.B.—This was written in 1861.]
+
+
+
+
+                        THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.
+
+                             AN EXPLORATION.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+
+                     PRELIMINARIES OF EXPLORATION.
+
+
+There are few spots on the earth’s surface where more of grace and
+grandeur, of beauty and sublimity, are found blended in one noble
+panorama than at the equatorial approach on the west coast of Africa.
+The voyager’s eye, fatigued by the low, flat, melancholy shores of Benin
+and Upper Biafra, rests with inexhaustible delight upon a ‘Gate,’
+compared with which Bab el-Mandeb and the Pillars of Hercules are indeed
+tame. To his right towers Santa Isabel, the Peak of Fernando Po, marked
+in the chart as 10,700 feet above sea-level: on his left is a
+geographical feature more stupendous still, where the Camaroons
+Mountain, whose height is popularly laid down at 13,760 feet, seems to
+spring from the wave, and to cast its shadow half-way across the narrow
+intervening channel, whose minimum breadth does not exceed nineteen
+miles. They are evidently sister formations, these giant pyramids; they
+wear a family look; their shoulders, clad in flowing garments of
+evergreen vegetation, converge gradually, and almost continuously, at an
+angle of about 12°, till they meet at a neck upon which a superimposed
+conical head denotes the great central spiracle.[5] In the island,
+however, superior humidity prolongs the woody region, whilst the
+continental mountain, some 3000 feet more elevated, shows a greater
+expanse of grassy surface clear of high trees. Remarkable also is the
+variety of the scene, which is rarely beheld under the same aspect. Now,
+through the thin grey haze of the fair season which paints all Nature
+with its own hues, they rise like spectres from the ‘vapour foot’ below,
+the umbras of mountains in the shadowy realm. Then they disappear
+mysteriously behind a dense, dark loom, affording at times a glimpse
+through the festoons and hangings of mist and cloud that are caught and
+held by the rough, tree-clad surface. Then, especially after tornado-
+rains, profile and fold stand out with a marvellous distinctness that
+brings them within a quarter of their real distance. Their waists, where
+the North-east Trade and the South-west Rain-winds meet, are often girt
+with a sharply-defined, delicate zone of sea-cloud, cumuloni-rollers,
+snow-white when shone upon by the sun, below in strata, which, forming a
+new base for the upper half, show an Ossa piled upon many a Pelion: a
+lower girdle of land-cloud is also not unfrequent, while fleecy little
+cirri dance like aërial sprites over the Peak. And sometimes upon the
+further summit of the Camaroons Mountain, a broad sheet, distance-
+dwarfed to a mere fleck, of a dead and absolute white, which cannot be
+confounded with cloud, lava, or dolomite, tells of snow within four
+degrees of the equator. But the time to behold it is when there is a
+cloudless sky: in the soft and misty air its hues are so fresh, so
+melting, so tender, that it is a sensual enjoyment to gaze upon them.
+Then the channel, crisped and freshened by the remnants of the Northern
+Trades, winds beautifully blue between them; and the monarchs of West
+African mountains throned in sapphire, all gorgeous purple below,
+passing into the lightest azure above, raise toward the empyrean their
+heads jewelled with the gold of a tropical sunshine. Such a picture can
+never fade from the memory of man.
+
+And there are marvels and wonders connected with them, especially with
+the unexplored Camaroons.[6] This is the only point of the West African
+coast still presenting the same features described in the log-book of
+Hanno the Carthaginian—the admiral, general, historian, and first of
+lion-tamers.
+
+For long centuries navigators have sailed along its base, but no foot
+has ever ventured to tread that little hump, which, as in the Pico of
+Tenerife, denotes the apex. Portuguese and Spaniard, Dutch, English, and
+French, have all been contented to wonder and to admire from afar this
+great landmark of the western shores. The coast-people declare that they
+have seen fire bursting out of the ground; and from Clarence Town in
+Fernando Po smoke has been observed more than once to issue from the
+summit of the ‘Mount of Heaven,’ as they call the Theon Ochema, upon
+which, 600 years before our era, the old Carthaginians gazed in fear. In
+the pages of a contemporary writer upon the West Coast of Africa, its
+uplands narrowly escaped being garnished with a race of Dokos and Kimos,
+dwarfs and pigmies, and _hommes à queue_, the mysterious Ding-Dings and
+Nyam-Nyams.
+
+Having left pestilential Lagos on the 21st November, 1861, in H.M.S.
+‘Bloodhound,’ Lieut.-Commander Dolben, R.N., after visiting the dull and
+deadly Brass and Bonny rivers I determined to refresh myself with a
+nearer view of the Camaroons Mountain, and to prospect the chances of
+carrying out a long-cherished project of exploring it. As we approached
+the goal on the dawn of the 10th December, a jealous cloud, like the
+vapour which further north invests Madeira and the Canaries, seemed
+resolved to hide its majesty from our eyes. Before sunrise, however,
+every stain of mist had, as frequently happens, disappeared. For a
+distance of ten miles a huge blue silhouette stood before us, the upper
+heights gilt by the yet unrisen sun, and the lower expanse still blue-
+black with lingering night. The dorsal swell was everywhere so regular
+that it gave to the whole the appearance of one vast mountain rising
+from a single base. Every quarter of an hour, however, brought a change
+in the magnificent spectacle. Presently the south-western profile was
+broken by three serrations; the highest is the uppermost of a group, to
+which we afterwards gave the name of the Three Sisters; below it was an
+extinct Vesuvius, the Little Camaroons of old sailors, surging
+apparently impracticable and perpendicular from a rolling sea of
+vegetation; lower still was the Botoki cone, a small but independent
+feature, clearly seen from Fernando Po; and in the maritime region
+hummocky hills and dromedary’s backs here formed headlands, heaving out
+in accumulative grandeur from the Atlantic, whose mighty swell, slow and
+measured, broke at their feet, there sank blended with the winding,
+waving shore, that dipped below the misty horizon. With the increased
+clearness of morning, we began to understand that what we had supposed
+to be a plain surface of tropical forest in the lower basal half, is a
+succession of long striated ridges, with intervening barrancas, valleys,
+and ravines; whilst the dots, which had before puzzled us, were wooded
+protuberances,—‘parasitic’ cones they are called by those who would
+quiet their consciences with a technical word.[7] Higher up we could
+distinctly trace the line where the forest region yields to that of
+grass and shrubs: there again appeared a multitude of little lumps, an
+eruption of warts upon the epidermis of the giant; they looked like
+mole-hills from below; above they will become sugar-loaves, bosses, and
+‘volcanic blowing cones,’ like the ‘_hornitos_’ or oven-shaped hillocks
+speckling the Mal Pais plain of Mexican Jorullo. And the terminal
+domelet, evidently bald and bare, wore, when the first delicate rays of
+the rosy sun had faded from it, a brown-black, tempered by the
+intervening blue, but contrasting strongly with the reddish-yellow which
+winter, or rather the dry season, had already strewed upon the grass-
+slopes beneath it. As we steamed into the beautiful Ambas, or Victoria
+Bay, with its protecting islets on our right hand, all admired, after
+the mangrove-haunted river, the sublimity and the passing loveliness of
+the scene; above our heads the noble pile capped with its fissured
+cupola; before us the dwarf earth-banks and the beetling cliffs that
+margined the mirrory sea, and the forest with its infinite tintage, here
+ruddy, there almost white, now dark as spinach, then of the lightest
+leek-green. Some compared it to Navarino Bay, others to the once young
+and charming Sierra Leone, as she appears in pictures, before fire had
+wasted the now deadly land. It is fortunate that the devils of this
+paradise have not yet learned, like the Timni and their brethren the
+‘colonists,’ to disforest the soil; when the operation of bush-clearing
+is carried out, care should be taken to leave all the finest trees
+standing.
+
+Running with an easterly course, we passed a detached rock which we
+called ‘The Hulk’—_prosit!_ Beyond it, at the foot of the Botoki cone,
+where Capt. Allen places his Batoki village,[8] appeared the Point
+Limboh of our maps, a rugged, forested head, forming the north-west
+buttress of Ambas Bay. We then fronted a green and shaggy amphitheatre,
+which apparently had no break nor outlet, and soon afterwards we found
+it composed of two shallow rocky waves in the coast, the further cove
+being our destination. On the port-bow rose, needle-like, from the
+waves, sheer and steep-to, the Bubyá Islands, ridiculously enough called
+the Pirate Rocks; the distinctly columnar shape of these pinnacled
+‘inches,’ the fornos, souffleurs, or blowing-holes, in their bases and
+their water-worn arches revealed a basaltic formation. Continuing our
+course in ¼ less 10 fathoms, we left on the starboard bow Ndami,
+miscalled Ambas, or Amboize Island, a long, narrow chine of black rock,
+partially greened over and dotted at the northern and western ends with
+about a dozen huts; a violent surf, urged by the south-west winds,
+breaks around it during the rainy season. We then passed northward of
+‘Mondoleh,’ or rather ‘Mondori,’ Island, which is defended in this
+direction by outlying rocks and reefs. It is an egg-shaped rock, woody
+and shady, bluff towards the north, and sloping seawards in the south.
+It appeared to all of us the best preparatory position for a sanitarium,
+and as such I shall revert to it.
+
+Presently, at 11 A.M., we anchored in three fathoms water off the mouth
+of Morton Cove, so called from a certain patron of the Baptist Mission.
+This north-eastern and innermost recess of Ambas Bay, being completely
+land-locked towards the weather, must offer, one would suppose, at all
+seasons an excellent station to boats. The southern part is shoal and
+sandy, and the bottom is dotted with diabolitos with basaltic points,
+sometimes covered by the tide, and making it a dangerous anchorage for
+ships. In the Hydrographic Chart the dimensions of the chord of Morton
+Cove are unduly reduced. It supplies an abundance of the purest water: a
+little perennial stream falls into the centre of the arc; the heights
+are covered with noble timber; there is an abundance of building
+material, stone being as common as in Madeira and Tenerife; whilst
+specimens of coralline brought up by the fishermen show that here, as at
+San Thomé, the growth of madrepore would supply the settlement with
+lime. And there is a walk round the cove over a soft dark sand, formed,
+like that of Fernando Po, by a detritus of basalt about a mile and a
+half long and, at low water, fifty yards wide.
+
+The good ship lay about eight hundred yards W.S.W. of the Missionary
+station Victoria, and thus commanded a fine view of the site where the
+future town will be. The position is a broken uneven ledge, formed by
+alluvium from the mountains almost immediately behind it, and extending
+from one to two miles towards the sea bounding it on the south. Within
+an easy walk of two hours, and bearing 65° E.N.E. from the Mission
+House, is a rounded tree-clad cone, called by the Baptists Mount Henry;
+this would be the second step towards the upper sanitarium, to
+which—suddenness of change often induces a relapse of fever in these
+exceedingly tropical lands,—patients should not be conveyed too rapidly.
+Immediately behind the settlement is a gorgeous and gigantic growth of
+equatorial forest, which would require to be cleared or thinned before
+aught else could be done; at present it is almost impassable during the
+rains, and at all seasons it breeds swarms of sandflies and mosquitos.
+The dwarf enclosure which backs the houses runs about half a mile each
+way, and might grow to half a dozen times the size. At present there are
+ten habitations, two of iron and the rest of timber. The three of
+superior appearance fronting the sea command a fine view of the bay-
+islets, the densely wooded promontories, and the rival peak of Fernando
+Po, springing gnomon-like from the bosom of the ocean. Opposite the
+principal abode, the Mission House, are scattered rocks, forming a
+natural breakwater, which could easily be converted into a pier. This
+was proposed some twenty years ago, but Africa moves even more slowly
+than England—not a stone has been laid. The walls are dry lines of
+basaltic blocks and boulders, which everywhere strew the surface; there
+is also good clay for bricks. About three-quarters of a mile from, and
+appearing to command the settlement, is Mount Helen, a finely wooded
+cliff, admirably fitted for the site of a convict prison; it is a
+dangerous rocky point in windy weather, and at all times the surf is
+bad. On the sandstrip below, and east of the mission establishment, are
+long cadjan’d sheds, used as boat-houses and places of barter; in the
+Admiralty Chart the place is marked ‘Plantain market on Fridays.’ Here
+on every third day the islanders and the savages from the upper slopes
+meet to change their fruits and vegetables, chiefly cocoas and yams,
+palm-nuts and bananas, for salt, tobacco, small wares, and dried fish of
+various kinds, the chief demand of the interior. About two miles to the
+eastward is a second hamlet, which can be reached either by footpath or
+by canoe; it is also held every third day, and the articles of ‘round
+trade’ are the same. A local feud—one is prevailing now—often breaks off
+the ‘bazar’ for weeks; faction-fights with stones are not uncommon; and
+when the Bimbia people from the east kidnap a woman or two the upper
+clans fear to descend. In the best of times only a few pounds of
+provisions are procurable at these markets. It is evident that a colony
+landing at Victoria should be supplied with frame houses and rations[9]
+until with reasonable industry it could support itself. The reader must
+not readily credit the various assertions recklessly made touching the
+quantity of provisions at Victoria. On the other hand, as freight is
+easily brought from the neighbouring rivers Bimbia and Camaroons, it is
+not likely that the Victorians, like the tars of the Elizabethan navy,
+are always raising, as their rivals declare, the pitiful cry, ‘Vittels!
+vittels! vittels!’ As will presently appear, there is great fierceness
+between the two rival settlements; though the battle for bread does not
+rage fiercely in these bilious lands, yet the only amity lies in
+community of interests, and none but a stranger—like myself—would
+attempt to speak out the truth.
+
+Lieutenant Dolben and I, embarking in the first gig, despised the fine-
+weather passage leading towards the site of the future pier. We crossed
+in safety the little angry bar, and landed on a shingly beach, narrow as
+usual: on this part of the African coast there are none of the broad
+yellow sands that beautify the edges of the Asiatic seas. Then we walked
+a few yards to the rock-garnished mouth of a second little river which
+bounds the missionary clearing on the west. It is a mountain-burn, the
+drainage of the uplands, but a few yards wide, and barely chin-deep; it
+is, however, perennial, and extraordinarily sweet; ever cool in the
+hottest season, and overarched with shady trees, which require nothing
+but clearing. The bottom is neatly spread with pebbles of black basalt,
+all more or less porous; red volcanic stones and scoriæ, well rounded
+and water-rolled. It is a delightful bath for those who can despise
+threats of fever, and it is the model of a trout stream, although we saw
+in it only the smallest of fry.
+
+After bathing and giving orders to fill casks, we walked towards the
+settlement, which is not more than three hundred yards from the stream,
+and were presently met by Messrs. Diboll and Mann, who showed us the
+narrow path through the bush. The Rev. Mr. Saker was then at his head-
+quarters on the Camaroons River, of which this establishment is an
+outpost; we therefore paid a short visit to his amiable family, and then
+departed.
+
+I had arrived, however, at an apparently auspicious moment for my long-
+cherished project. M. Mann in 1860 had ascended a few hundred feet of
+the Camaroons mountains, but having lacked time, and perhaps having
+overestimated the difficulties, he had returned unsatisfied to Fernando
+Po, and he was now girding his loins for a second attempt to scale a
+mountain whose glorious pinnacles had never felt the foot of man.[10] He
+is a young man of twenty-five, a native of Brunswick, a gardener from
+the Royal Gardens, Kew, to which he was recommended by the Court of
+Hanover. Originally attached, in 1859, to Dr. Baikie’s Niger expedition
+in place of the lamented Dr. Barter, he has been continued as Government
+botanist in West Africa by the Admiralty, with the ostensible motive of
+inspecting the timber. The ‘Amabilis scientia’—whose votaries, however,
+can at times be as cross as poets—appears still at a discount in public
+opinion. Whilst in these days the geologist holds his head high, one
+rarely reads of a detached ‘botaniker;’ as a rule the ‘poor herbalist’
+is attached as a decent appendage to some Government expedition. Economy
+is often made to entrench upon utility. And why should the collector,
+after bearing the heat and burden of the day, lose his reward? Why
+should not ‘Hooker’s Niger Flora’ be known as ‘Vogel’s Herbarium
+described by Hooker’? And yet another point. Why should not the
+collector be allowed to reserve a certain percentage of new plants to
+study and to name after his friends? We are certainly afflicted in this
+century with a terrible thirst for small fame, but it is a pity that
+justice should be sacrificed to it; for which reason, and not
+invidiously, I venture upon these remarks. If the practical English
+public ask the _cui bono_ of a botanist beyond the mere science, it may
+be answered that, setting aside the question of timber, the soil of
+these regions is capable of being made a mine of wealth when science
+shall have decided upon what it is best capable of producing.
+
+Meanwhile M. Mann, after visiting the Bagroo river, near Sierra Leone
+and Barracoon Point, on the Niger, made, after twice failing, two
+ascents (in April and December, 1860) of Fernando Po Peak, where he was
+guided by a Spanish official, M. Pellon, the Special Delegate of Public
+Works. Their visit was the second ever made to the summit, the late Mr.
+Beecroft’s being the first. He subsequently ascended to the summits of
+Prince’s Island and San Thomé, and visited the Gaboon and other African
+rivers. He has been indefatigable in collecting and in preserving his
+collections, and has supplied one of the greatest desiderata in
+botanical geography.[11] The results have been to establish: ‘1. An
+intimate relationship with Abyssinia, of whose flora that of the
+Fernandian Peak is a member, and from which it is separated by 1800
+miles of absolutely explored country; 2. A curious relationship with the
+East African Islands, which are still further off; 3. An almost total
+dissimilarity from the Cape flora.’[12] With the West African Islands
+again, contrary to expectation, there is no marked relationship
+whatever.
+
+M. Mann had once more left Fernando Po on the 4th December, 1861, and,
+landing at Victoria, had begun his preparations without delay. There
+were the usual difficulties to be encountered; the bush people would
+give no guide, and the chiefs refused passage. Two days after his
+arrival he was ready to revisit the terminus of his last year’s march,
+which he knew by the name of Mapanya. A ‘Mokwiri,’[13] however, at
+Victoria, informed the traveller that the real Mapanya still remained
+unvisited, and offered to act as guide, requiring for himself and his
+five boys each five ‘big tings,’ here equivalent to five pounds. This
+exorbitant demand of thirty pounds for a mere preliminary lasted two
+days, when M. Mann definitely refused, and the fellow disappeared. At
+the next market Mr. Pinnock, a native missionary of the Baptist
+establishment, and his colleague, Mr. Johnson, enabled the botanist by
+great exertion to engage a guide. The man was a native of Mapanya, but
+living at a lower settlement: he was charged with presents for the chief
+of Kombi, a hostile village on the way; these naturally enough he took
+to his own ‘boss,’ and kept the stranger waiting three days for the
+return-message. Nor was this when it came particularly favourable. Every
+hour was precious, yet the traveller was told ‘Sit down for you’ three
+more days till ‘palaver’ had ‘set,’ _i.e._ been decided, after which
+guides and bearers might perhaps be forthcoming. Affairs, however,
+appeared to be opening up; and as my presence was required in the
+Camaroons River, M. Mann agreed to break ground as soon as possible, to
+botanize on the way, and to await my arrival before attempting the Peak.
+I must, however, do him the justice to say that he set out without delay
+and did his best of bests to be Number One; he failed, however, and
+failed signally, as the sequel will show.
+
+The afternoon was devoted to inspecting the islands, which were
+accurately described by Messrs. Allen and Thompson.[14] Ndami,
+erroneously called Dameh, or Ambas, the outer or westernmost island,
+some two and a half miles distant from the northern mainland, possesses
+but one, and that a difficult, landing-place at the inner end. This
+rocky, tongue-shaped ridge, with a bold head of 150 feet fronting the
+sea, which foams and rages outside, whilst the Cove, or inner harbour,
+lies smooth as a mill-pond, is clear of trees, but shows on the lower
+slopes a little garden-ground about the huts of the inhabitants. It
+breeds goats and pigs in plenty; water, however, must be brought from
+the mainland when the people set out on fishing excursions. Separated
+from Ndami by a channel one mile and a half broad, stands its eastern
+neighbour Mondori, which Captain Allen calls Mondoleh, and others
+Mondoli,[15] a much more interesting place. About two miles distant from
+the northern shore, it is separated from the bold headland forming the
+eastern arm of the bay by a fair broad channel. The Victorians declare
+that it is accessible whilst the sauciest sea runs outside, and that,
+when the rest of the bay is a sheet of foam, vessels can ride snugly
+under the lee of its northern point; they assert that it has an
+excellent holding bottom of dark tough clay, and that it is superior in
+many points to the celebrated Clarence Cove, Fernando Po. The formation
+of the island, according to Mr. Roscher,[16] is amygdaloid basalt in the
+lower parts, and in the upper a more solid stone with shiny cleavage,
+evidently the result of different epochs of cooling; on the western
+side, where the greatest heat was, the older deposits are destroyed.
+Mondori rises about 200 feet from the sea, with the profile of a lumpy
+dome; it is steep on all sides, except at the south-east, where the
+landing is. Magnificent trees, hung with llianas and festooned with
+orchids, crown the summit and creep down the flanks. After repeated
+attempts, we failed to scale the bluff northern side, foiled by the
+impenetrable bush; we heard, however, the voices of the people above us,
+and we were told that it contains a few households, who add to the gifts
+of their nets the produce of the richest soil formed by decomposed
+basalt. Their huts are hidden from the sea and the bay, and a spring, it
+is said, supplies them with excellent water. Like Ndami, Mondori is
+claimed by one Nako, a Bimbia chief, as an inheritance from his father,
+‘old Nako:’ there would be no difficulty in purchasing it. The place
+would be useful as a storehouse and a preliminary sanitarium; and should
+Government determine to send out convict-hulks or a coal-ship for this
+station, there is no better mooring-place than under its lee. A hundred
+negro workmen, gardeners, and lumberers, would easily clear and prepare
+it during the six months of the dry season.
+
+The other islands alongshore are the Bubya, Bobbi, Abobbi, or Pirate
+Rocks, whose formation, like Point William at Fernando Po, reveals to us
+the original connection between the two mountains. Urged both by N.E.
+and S.W. winds, a violent sea must have beaten upon the low neck of land
+which in past times attached the bases of the sister peaks. The land was
+gradually dismembered, leaving fragments of islands, which are still
+being sliced away by successive inroads. Gradually the water began to
+roll deeper between them; the channel, however, is still shallow, and
+there is a subaqueous ridge extending from N.E. to S.W.[17] Presently
+the same surf, ever perforating and degrading, washed from Ndami the
+Bubya Rocks, and these in their turn, after being greatly curtailed in
+size, are nodding to their fall. The group numbers ten to fifteen,
+according to the state of the tide, which here rises eight[18] feet; the
+line, separated from the main by a sea-arm about one fathom deep, sets
+off the shore in a general north and south direction. The largest and
+the sole inhabited island is the second from the coast; it is a mass of
+ejected ashes, with volcanic dykes. There is but one landing-place; a
+sandy hole in a confusion of rocks, immediately below the highest
+ground. The only path is up the narrow edge of a basaltic vein, leading
+to a dwarf level, and here a natural bridge about three yards wide, with
+a sheer drop on either side, affords adit to the steepest acclivity,
+where the people fly when necessary. Though there is no ground for
+cultivation, and the grazing for beasts is scanty, the miserable huts
+swarm with children and dogs, pigs and goats. The people live mostly on
+fish, and when their rain-pools are exhausted they must seek supplies
+from the mainland.
+
+Upon all the islands of Ambas Bay there may be 300 souls, who, perfect
+African Bedouins, are on bad terms with one other, and generally at war
+with their continental neighbours. They have, with but a solitary
+exception, received Englishmen well, and we have requited their kindness
+by attaching to them the odium of piracy. The ‘Lords of the Isles’ are,
+as their language proves, allied with the Bakwiri, the principal tribe
+upon the opposite coast; thus probably Fernando Po was also peopled, but
+at a much earlier epoch, from the mainland, by a tribe doubtless long
+extinct. The Camaroons tribes named in the chart are the Batongo to the
+south-west, the Bakwileh (for Bakwiri) south of the mountain, and the
+Bamboko to the south-east; all terms, except one, unknown to the people.
+Proceeding from the east, we find the Dualla, by English called the
+Camaroons people, the Isubu or Bimbia—the latter a name given by the
+older travellers—the Bakwiri or Bojesmans, and the Rumbi. The latter is
+also a European word. I could not discover what the tribe calls itself;
+possibly, like the Bube of Fernando Po, it has no (general) name. The
+people of Bubya are stout, independent fellows, with abrupt manners, the
+result of secluded and seafaring life; every visitor has remarked their
+robust and healthy aspect, which can be accounted for only by the
+superior salubrity of, and the freedom from malaria in, their island
+home.[19]
+
+The history of European connection with this part of the coast is
+briefly told,—but first of foreign nomenclature. According to Mr. J.
+Grazilhier, who, as related by Barbot,[20] made a voyage to Old Calabar
+in A.D. 1699, the land was called by the Portuguese Alta Tierra de
+Ambozes—the highlands of Ambozes. The latter word, not being Lusitanian,
+may probably be the name of some extinct tribe: here and elsewhere the
+maritime African races rapidly disappear. It has been corrupted to
+Amboizes, Amboize, and Ambas, which latter appears in the Hydrographic
+Chart. The trivial English names of the mountains and the river to their
+east—Camaroons, further debased to Cameroons, and by the Jonesian
+writers to the yet more meaningless Kameruns—comes from the Portuguese
+Camaráõ, or the Spanish Camaron, a shrimp or prawn, of which there is a
+great variety from Lagos southwards.[21] I have retained the name,
+although to call this stupendous pile and the broad estuary beyond it
+‘Shrimp Mountains,’ or ‘Prawn River,’ sounds somewhat absurd. Captain
+Allen, instructed by some Bimbia man, in his map gave to the highest
+peak the name of Mongo má Lobá, which means in Isubu ‘Mountain of
+Heaven,’ _i.e._ the starry expanse. The natives acknowledge this word:
+they usually, however, call the whole upper region Mongo mo Ndemi,
+literally the Mountain of Greatness, which is also Dr. Krapf’s
+translation of the words Kilima-njáro, applied to the Ethiopic Olympus
+in Eastern Africa. But to the lower eminence—the smaller hump of the
+camel’s back, which was formerly called ‘Camarones Pequeños,’ or ‘Little
+Camaroons,’ and ‘Gibraltar Rock,’ and which the Baptist missionaries
+have lately baptized ‘Mount Trestrail,’—Captain Allen has assigned the
+name of Mongo ma Etindeh, the ‘Mountain of Separation,’ that is to say,
+‘the separate mountain,’ which the natives do not recognize. I should
+prefer to call the highland region and bay Ambozes, the two peaks Larger
+and Lesser Mongo, and the settlement Victoria: it would only, however,
+confuse those who have learned Camaroons and Ambas to unlearn the terms.
+
+The adjoining country was formally discovered towards the close of the
+fifteenth century, by the noble Portuguese Fernaõ de Poo, who voyaged
+during the reign of D. Affonso V.; his name still survives in the Island
+of Fernando Po. About A.D. 1700 an active trade appears to have been
+carried on here and in the adjoining river. In the early part of the
+present century, to judge from Captain Adams, it seems to have fallen
+out of notice. In 1826 Captain W. F. Owen, R.N., the laborious surveyor
+of the two African coasts, explored the shore when homeward bound, and
+accurately laid down its geography. In 1833 ‘Kokliko,’ _i.e._ Colonel,
+now General, Sir Edward Nicolls, R.M.,[22] visited it in the ‘Quorra’
+steamer, and the people of the islands, who had never been visited
+before except by kidnappers and buccaneers, fled. In 1837, Billeh, Chief
+of Bimbia, who also claimed Ambas Bay and its islands, conceded the best
+part of the country to Colonel Nicolls, on condition that he should be
+recognized as King William of Bimbia.[23] In 1842 the harbour was
+surveyed by Captain W. Allen and Commander Ellis, H.M.S. ‘Soudan.’ Two
+years afterwards, Lieut.-Commander Earle, H.M.’s brig ‘Rapid,’ made a
+treaty with King William and the Bimbian chiefs, abolishing slavery for
+a consideration of 1200 dollars in goods. In 1847, Mr. Merrick, a member
+of the Baptist Mission then settled at Bimbia and in the Camaroons
+River, made the first recorded trial to ascend the mountain:[24]
+according to the people he succeeded in emerging from the forest
+country, but presently water failed him; his escort suffered from cold,
+hunger, and thirst, and he was compelled to return. He died two years
+afterwards of a confirmed teetotalism: in these lands the habitual
+water-drinker is even more shortlived than the habitual drunkard.[25] In
+1848 King William and his chiefs agreed with Mr. Beecroft to abolish the
+custom of human sacrifices at the funerals of great men; and in 1850
+they bound themselves by a more stringent commercial treaty, settling
+their ‘comey,’ and affixing penalties to those who injure or stop trade.
+In 1855 H.M.’s Acting-Consul, Fernando Po, visited Ambas Bay in H.M.S.
+‘Antelope,’ Lieut.-Commander Young, to settle an old ‘bob’ which had
+lasted a score of years. The people of the ‘Boobee Islands’ had defied
+King William and other Bimbian traders, they had openly seized his
+slaves, canoes, and goods, and they had refused to come on board the
+steamer. Fire was opened upon the wretched heap of huts; and when they
+were destroyed, the proprietors signed a paper ‘acknowledging King
+William of Bimbia rightful king and ruler of all the mainland and
+islands extending from Bimbia to Rumby;’ while the king and chiefs of
+Bimbia promised in their turn not to molest the ‘Boobees.’ In 1856 the
+late Mr. M. Laird strongly advocated in opposition to Fernando Po a
+British settlement at Ambas Bay, which had been greatly neglected on
+account of a supposed want of safe landing: he showed its superiority as
+a convict station to Ascension, and he also maintained, what had
+apparently been forgotten, viz., that a great part of the actual
+seaboard had been ceded to H.M.’s Government.[26]
+
+Victoria was first settled in 1858. In May of that year the Spanish
+Government, formerly so incurious touching its West African possessions,
+suddenly bethought itself of making Fernando Po not only a strategic
+position, but a source of wealth. Hoping by means of _emancipados_ from
+Cuba to raise the Ilha Formosa to the rank of Madeira and Tenerife,
+Prince’s and San Thomé, they formally resumed possession after it had
+been virtually in English hands for nearly half a century. D. Carlos
+Chacon, Commander of H.C. Majesty’s squadron in the island and its
+dependencies, at once issued a proclamation forbidding any but Roman
+Catholic schools; and ordering ‘those who prefer any religion which is
+not the Catholic, to confine their worship within their own private
+houses or families, and limit it to the members thereof.’ This
+announcement fell like a shell amongst the black people of Clarence
+Town, alias Santa Isabel, who numbered some 800 souls, many of them
+creoles born in the colony. Having settled here in 1827, when Captain
+Owen was king, they considered themselves under British protection, and
+had since 1840 sat at the feet of Baptist ministers. On the 1st January,
+1841, the ‘Golden Spring’ landed Mr. J. Clarke and Dr. G. K. Prince at
+Fernando Po. They returned home in the autumn of the next year;
+meanwhile, Mr. and Mrs. Sturgeon had arrived, and were followed in
+September, 1843, by Dr. and Mrs. Prince, Mr. and Mrs. Merrick, and
+Alexander Fuller. In December of the same year Mr. Clarke left Jamaica
+with a total of forty-one whites and negroes, amongst whom was Mr.
+Saker, the present head of the mission. In 1844 the Baptists attempted
+to settle at the mouth of the Bimbia River: they found the land
+beautiful, but deadly; and in 1850 they left it for Camaroons River,
+which has proved but little better. They then preferred Fernando Po. The
+Baptist converts, seeing the danger that threatened their pastors,
+memorialized H.M. of Spain, but obtained no redress.[27]
+
+In August, 1858, Mr. Saker and his family left Fernando Po, where he had
+been allowed to reside only on sufferance, and emigrated to Ambas, which
+he called Victoria. He was accompanied and followed by sundry negro
+communicants, who have since, I believe, repented the step. Having
+obtained 1500_l._ damages—an exorbitant sum—from the Spanish Government,
+and apparently ignoring the antecedents of the country, he bought for
+2000_l._—in kind, however, and in local valuation, which greatly reduced
+the sum—the most valuable part of the location from King William of
+Bimbia, Dick Merchant of Dikolo, and Prince Nako of Dualla. The grant of
+‘prime cuts’ was bounded southward by the sea; north, by a line of
+compass-bearings somewhat indefinite; eastward, by a stream of water
+flowing into Man-of-War Bay—an adjoining inlet; and westward, a point
+nearly opposite Bubya Islands: a total coast length of twelve miles,
+which Mr. Consul Hutchinson makes eighty. It includes, as will be
+observed, Ambas Bay and Victoria Harbour. The first habitation, not to
+speak of the tents erected on landing, was a small iron-framed cottage,
+put up in September 1858, and still used by Mr. Saker and his family; it
+has wood, not metal, outside, and is habitable and tolerably healthy, no
+small contrast to the iron coffins, called Consular Residences, at Lagos
+and Fernando Po.
+
+Then began a dispute which has lasted to the present day, and which
+could easily have been settled in six months. The jealous Fernandians
+naturally hated and feared the settlement on the mainland. The Spaniards
+held aloof, but the English shopkeepers and others locally interested
+were loud in their abuse. They declared the natives dangerous, and the
+prospect of the settlers to be starvation. Unable to deny the salubrity
+of a place to which many of them had often repaired for health, they
+represented that it possesses no safe anchorage, and cannot be entered
+without imminent risk during the rains. Commodore Wise, of H.M.S.
+‘Vesuvius,’ was directed to visit Ambas Bay in 1859. Unhappily he was
+accompanied by an official who, according to the missionaries, had
+desired, but had failed, to become a partner in the land speculation.
+Captain Wise, who remained there only a few hours, is believed to have
+reported against the position; and Mr. Hutchinson (‘Ten Years’
+Wanderings among the Ethiopians,’ chap. xviii.) gravely informed the
+public that ‘at one important part of the bay, described in the Rev. Mr.
+Saker’s chart as having four to six fathoms of water, it was found by
+Mr. Bowen, Master R.N., who had charge of the soundings, to have only
+from six to nine feet.’ The chart was copied from Captain Allen’s, and
+the statement caused considerable indignation; yet in 1862, Commodore
+Edmonstone, who had never even approached within sight of Ambas Bay,
+objected upon the mere theoretical grounds of its being a lee shore—as
+if all West Africa were not a ‘lee shore’—to its capabilities as a naval
+station.
+
+On the other hand, Mr. Saker, and those who were with him, contended
+that the native tribes were few, scattered, and not dangerous; that the
+country can be made highly productive, and support fine cattle, which
+the island cannot; that building material everywhere abounds; that the
+north-east tornadoes, which do so much damage at Fernando Po, are here
+warded off by the mountain background; that mosquitoes and mangrove
+swamps are unknown; that the sea-breeze is pure and healthy in the lower
+levels, and that by ascending the high lands any temperature can be
+obtained; that the islands are fit for lighthouses and coal depôts, and
+the level strand for sheds and slips; that the eastern sea-arm is open
+even to the largest ships at all seasons, and that, however rough may be
+the sea outside, it is ever smooth under the lee of Mondori; that the
+position lies in the very track of the mail steamers, which must now
+diverge to Fernando Po; that the tenure of land would not be arbitrary,
+as must ever be the case in a military station; that Victoria offers
+complete religious toleration, and, finally, that the Camaroons
+generally would be the key of the valuable Oil Rivers, whose export
+trade to England is calculated at not less than a million and a half of
+pounds sterling per annum.
+
+Virtually all this, and perhaps more, had been expressed by previous
+authorities. Captain Allen, R.N., after ample experience on the coast,
+found at Ambas Bay ‘palpable evidence of the superiority of the
+climate;’ where he enjoyed ‘a pure and prolonged sea-breeze or a cool
+land wind every night, ensuring a calm and refreshing sleep.’ He ends by
+declaring (vol. ii. chaps. viii. ix.) that ‘there are few places on the
+coast of Africa more suitable for a settlement’ than the lands at the
+base of Camaroons. Captain Close, R.N., does not hesitate to prefer
+Ambas Bay to Clarence Cove—a cruel dig—where the wind setting in
+prevents sailing vessels emerging from the gap without the aid of steam,
+and where at times the tornadoes are so violent that ships risk being
+stranded. Mr. Milbourne, master of the missionary schooner ‘Wanderer,’
+has asserted that, ‘after giving a good deal of attention to this spot’
+(the anchoring-ground under Mondori Island) ‘during the different
+seasons of the year, he found the water always smooth;’ moreover he was
+never detained in the bay, even when the mouth of the Camaroons River
+was inaccessible to small craft.
+
+Here then we have Captains Allen and Close—of whom the former has
+repeatedly visited and surveyed the place—versus Commodores Wise and
+Edmonstone, who either saw it for a few hours, or who did not see it at
+all. A ‘plain man’ would hold that this decides the point _pro_ against
+_con_. I confess, however, that, all things considered, it would be
+necessary to run in and out of it some dozen times during the worst
+seasons, between September and November, before one could be certain of
+its capabilities as a naval station. Its fitness for a convict or
+settler establishment I hold proven: even were the surf at times heavy,
+it would be no greater objection than the bar to Lagos or the rollers to
+Ascension. Of the superior salubrity of the climate there is also ample
+practical evidence. Mr. Saker has for four years used his house on the
+seaboard as a sanitarium, when prostrated by the malaria-poison of the
+Camaroons River; and when the young negresses at Fernando Po wish to
+‘make nyángá,’ as they call a peculiarly junketing picnic, they repair
+to Victoria.
+
+I now proceed to consider the geography of this interesting region. The
+Camaroons Mountain is strictly in the African terra incognita, whose
+limits are now 5° N. lat. to 5° S. lat., with a depth into the heart of
+the Continent,[28] rising about the centre of the Bight of Biafra in the
+Gulf of Guinea, where the western coast—after that long easterly sweep
+which, hollowed out by wind and water, caused geographers, until some
+five centuries ago, to shear off the vast triangle whose base is the
+Equator, and whose apex is the Cape of Good Hope—bends almost at right
+angles towards the Austral Pole. It is not an insulated pinnacle, an
+isolated feature, as some have supposed: its prolongation to the N.E.
+and S.W. (from 33° N.E. to 33° S.W.) cannot be estimated at less than
+50°.[29] In the former direction it seems to be connected by the Rumbi
+and the Kwa Mountains[30] with that long Fumbina line placed by Dr.
+Barth between the coast and Lake Chad.[31] Its position, with respect to
+the main ranges of Africa, has not been determined, and will require a
+special expedition. It may anastomoze with the meridional Sierra del
+Crystal, those West African ghauts which approach within a hundred miles
+of the Gaboon River’s mouth, and which from that point run parallel with
+the Ethiopic Ocean. On the other hand, it may connect with the
+latitudinal range known, for want of better name, as the ‘Kong
+Mountains,’ which, beginning N.E. of Sierra Leone, pass along the south
+of the Kwara (Quorra), and form Mount Patta to the west and the Bassa
+Hills to the east of the great stream, where, after collecting the
+waters of the Binue, it turns to the south. So far as is known, it does
+_not_ run parallel with the main axis of the interior mountain chains,
+‘as though the convulsions which have elevated the inactive mountain
+ranges corresponded in direction with those which have produced the
+fissures in the earth’s crust, along which we find the active instances
+of volcanic action.’
+
+The south-westerly prolongation of the Camaroons Mountains is even more
+remarkable. If the edge of a parallel ruler be placed on a Mercator’s
+map, nearly in the usual direction of the wind, viz. from about 33° N.E.
+to 33° S.W., it will align, besides Mount Alantika and the mountains of
+Fumbina, the Kwa, the Camaroons, Fernando Po, Prince’s Island, San
+Thomé, Annobom, and St. Helena, with an offset of 90° to Ascension. This
+observation, made by Captains Owen and Midgley, shows the strike of the
+elevating volcanic action. It may also be remarked that, omitting the
+Fumbina and other ranges, concerning which little is known, that the
+centre of disturbance was upon the coast, as is proved by the diminution
+of the more distant altitudes. Thus in charts the apex of the Camaroons
+is 13,760 feet, Fernando Po 10,190, Prince’s Island 3000, San Thomé
+7500-8000, Annobom 2000, St. Helena (Diana’s Peak) 2693, and Ascension
+(Green Mountain) 2870.
+
+In 1826 Captain Owen laid down the diameter of the true Camaroons
+buttress at nearly 20 miles from east to west, and the height at 13,000
+feet. Captain Boteler, an officer under his command, gave more than 20
+miles to the base, 13,250 feet to the greater, and 6000 feet to the
+lesser peak. The Hydrographic chart allows 13 geographical miles direct
+from Ambas Bay to the summit, to which it assigns an altitude of 13,760
+feet. We reduced the 13 to a little less than 10 habitable miles, and
+the altitude to 13,130 feet. Allowing 6 miles for the more abrupt
+counterslope, and 10 miles of breadth from the eastern foot (not
+including the Bimbia Hills) to the summit, and a similar extent for the
+western side, which is rather understated, we obtain an area of 380
+square miles—about one-third larger than Madeira and the Isle of Man. It
+is bounded on the north by the Rumbi Mountains, on the south by the
+Atlantic. The eastern limit is a creek flowing from N.E. to S.W. into
+the Bimbia River, or Camaraõ Pequeno, a stream probably discharged by
+the mountain;[32] and the western boundary is a branch of the Rio del
+Re, known to us as the Rumbi, and heading, it is believed, still further
+east than the Bimbia. Thus the Camaroons Mountain forms a parallelogram
+contained within 4° 20′[33] and 3° 57′ of N. lat., and 9° 1′ to 9° 25′
+of E. long. We may roughly assume it to be within 4° of the Equator.
+
+A sanitarium is sorely wanted for this portion of Africa. During the
+present year (1861) Lagos has become a British colony, with the usual
+amount of civil and military establishments. The only escape from the
+deadly malaria is to Tenerife or Ascension: the former distant, under
+the most favourable circumstances, three weeks; the latter ten days of
+steam by the aid of an accidental cruizer. On the other hand, the
+Camaroons are distant barely fifty-five hours. Its area is little less
+than the inhabited portion of the Neilgherry Hills in Western India. It
+has every range of climate—a tierra _caliente, temprada, fria_. The
+negro can flourish in the lower, the white man can sojourn in the upper
+part, where within 4° of the Line nightly frosts prevail throughout the
+year, and stores of ice and snow can be collected. The country is
+scantily inhabited, and only in parts, by a timid and feeble, though a
+wild and treacherous people. Land may be bought for a nominal sum; and
+the soil, as this narrative will show, is everywhere fitted for
+cultivation. With less than the Spaniards have expended upon Fernando
+Po, or than that which we have lavished on the splendid but useless
+Zambezi River, these mountains might in a few years be made a solid
+benefit to the coast of Western Intertropical Africa. I have seen the
+marvellous effects of removing naval invalids from their ships to a few
+hundred feet above sea-level at Fernando Po; here, by judicious
+management, even greater benefits might be expected. And for the future
+we must provide against another and even a greater evil of climate: the
+vomito, or yellow fever, which, of late years confined to the lands
+about the Gambia and Sierra Leone, is, whilst I write, advancing with
+giant steps towards the Equator. Its extreme elevation is known to be
+2500 feet.
+
+The age is agitating a movement in the right direction—one most
+important to a nation which, like Great Britain, requires expansion, and
+of which may be said, ‘_non progredi est regredi_.’ The mixed Anglo-
+Saxon race wants those cosmopolitan powers of acclimatization which
+scatter pure races, like the Chinese and Turanians, the Jews and the
+Gipsies, unscathed over the habitable world. The ‘people living between
+the Four Seas’ cannot, it is true, rear families in the tropics: the
+superior race may not descend into an inferior ethnic centre, though the
+reverse operation has many instances. Our melancholy task appears to be
+that of smoothing the way for a future and higher type of the initial
+genus and species—man. Emerson’s dictum may be extended to ourselves
+when he declares, ‘The German and Irish millions, like the negro, have a
+great deal of guano in their destiny. They are ferried over the
+Atlantic, and carted over America to ditch and to drudge, to make corn
+cheap, and then to lie down prematurely to make a spot of green grass on
+the prairie.’ We must abandon the Utopian idea that we are destined to
+people the earth.[34]
+
+But all the world over there are scattered isolated positions; hills
+rising like islands from the plains, mountain-masses, and rocky ridges,
+where Anglo-Saxon life and labour can—if incapable of propagation and
+perpetuation—at any rate be greatly prolonged. During the last half-
+century by deaths of British soldiers in India—not including casualties
+or the average loss of healthy stations—the nation, it is calculated by
+economists, has lost some ten millions of pounds sterling. Sir Ranald
+Martin, a strong advocate for the change, asserts that the third
+generation of unmixed Europeans is nowhere to be found in Bengal,[35]
+that the English soldier cannot be maintained in health and vigour upon
+the lowlands, and that the selection of suitable hill-stations has now
+become a state necessity. Health is strength, and strength is moral
+power, especially in the East. Sir Charles Metcalfe removed the garrison
+from the seaboard to the hills of Jamaica, and since its establishment
+at Newcastle and Maroon Town the mortality—excluding cases of disease
+contracted in the plains—was reduced to about one-third. In the
+Himalayas, 6000 feet above sea-level, on an average of five years
+(1850-1854) the mortality is hardly more than 3 per cent.—which is
+little higher than that of the civil population in France—against at
+least 10 per cent. in the low lands. At Poonah the English regiments
+have been healthier than those stationed in London barracks. When
+railroads shall have been established in India, no Minister will think
+of exhausting the soldier’s health and energies by confining him to the
+febrile zone; but keep him fresh and vigorous to throw upon the enemy
+wherever and whenever required. And our sons will marvel at the folly of
+their sires, who for the flimsiest of reasons, for a mere _vis
+inertiæ_—insist upon destroying Governors-General by binding them to the
+deadly Lower Bengal.
+
+On the 11th December I set out in H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound’ to visit the
+Camaroons River, where the traders were calling lustily, as is their
+wont, upon Hercules. It is one of the ‘trust rivers,’ meaning thoroughly
+untrustworthy: the white seller, expecting a return of 100 to 150 per
+cent., gives on credit goods which the black purchaser takes, firmly
+resolving to delay payment as long as possible, and, if he can, not to
+pay at all. The Camaroons has at least three head-men, called ‘kings’ in
+the African sense of the word—monarchs much like all the kings, thirty
+and one, whom Joshua bin Nun smote with the edge of the sword—two hulks,
+three or four ships, and perhaps a dozen European agents, who, to
+collect some poor 1700 puncheons of palm-oil and to settle their endless
+grievances, require the presence of at least one ambassador and one
+commodore. The natives are not without unpleasant practices and habits.
+If a chief, for instance, ‘boys’ another, the ‘boy’ at once sets out in
+his war-canoe to show ‘he be man,’ slaughters some unoffending wretch
+belonging to the insulter’s tribe—an African succedaneum for the
+duello’s: the victim’s clansmen retaliate upon the ‘man’s,’ and so on
+_ad infinitum_. Like all Africans, having no confidence in, and
+expecting nothing like justice from, one another, they flock to the
+nearest European official, and beg him to act as arbitrator. If he
+consents, a regular ‘palaver’ must ‘come up,’ and words cannot express
+its weariness, its damnable iteration. Each speaker not only ventilates
+his eloquence even unto nausea, he also begins as near the days of Adam
+as he can, lest aught be wanting to proper comprehension; and for fear
+of the strong points being forgotten, he dins them a dozen times into
+the hearer’s ears. I persuaded, not without a little gentle violence,
+Bonny Bell, Priso Bell, and King Kwa or Acqua, the three
+kings—individuals clad in a total of red-yellow bandanas and tall black
+or sky-blue tiles—to abolish, under pain of removal from the river, such
+‘facinorous practices,’ and, convinced that they would return to them at
+the first opportunity, I bade temporary adieu to the haunt of fever and
+iniquity, mentally exclaiming
+
+
+  Heu terra felici haud adeunda viro!
+
+
+An advantage, however, had been secured by this visit to the Camaroons.
+Mr. Saker, long anxious to explore ‘the mountain,’ volunteered to
+accompany us, and his intimate knowledge of the Dualla dialect, and his
+long experience in the Bimbia country side, rendered him a valuable
+acquisition.
+
+Of the ‘Bloodhound’ 13 out of 55 whites, besides the commander and the
+chief engineer, were prostrated by fever—such is too often the effect of
+a ‘Tour round the Rivers;’ and the medical officer protested against an
+intended visit to Old Calabar, the Kom Toro, and the Rio del Re, the
+last two of which I was anxious to open. The night of the 13th December
+saw us off the coal-shed Fernando Po, and four days sufficed to collect
+the outfit necessary for a month in the jungle.[36]
+
+The usual croaking followed the announcement of an intention to explore
+the mountain. The four or five fierce wild tribes holding the lower
+regions were represented as being able to turn out 5000 muskets—perhaps
+they may have 50. The forest swarmed with ‘tigers,’ hyænas, and other
+bugbears, the fevers were mortal in the lower regions, the cold would be
+intense, snow having just been seen in the upper heights,[37] and the
+Krumen—the only servants in these regions—would certainly die or desert,
+perhaps do both.
+
+I cannot, however, but plead guilty to a modified fatalism. Purely
+retrospective, it has many advantages. ‘We could not have helped it,’
+obviates all regret for the past however regretful, and bygones become
+doubly bygones; whilst the present so soon becoming the past is hardly
+more valuable, and the future, which must inevitably merge with present
+and past, is even less important:—
+
+
+  Il passato non è, ma se lo finge,
+
+        La viva rimembranza;
+
+  Il futuro non è, ma se lo pinge,
+
+        La credula speranza;
+
+  Il presento non è, ma in un baleno,
+
+        Passa del nube in seno;
+
+  Dunque la vita è appunto,
+
+  Una memoria, una speranza, un punto.
+
+
+Prospective fatalism in practice appears absurd. When the Turk sits in
+an embrasure under a volley of musketry, and refuses to move—by-the-by,
+I emphatically never saw this often-heard-of incident—because Allah
+knows when he is to die, it ought to strike that benighted personage
+that Allah may also know he is to escape death by a little more
+activity. Fatalism, however, like all modifications of faith, is mainly
+the effect of climate. In the cold, bustling, and energetic north,
+amongst the elbowing Anglo-Saxons, where,—contrary to what the Italian
+says,—
+
+
+  Life is real, life is earnest,
+
+
+fatalism is at best a sickly exotic. As you approach the Mediterranean
+it grows into a kind of creed: every one has known Southrons,—Italians
+and Spaniards,—who, fatalists by nature, yet broken by habit to the
+orthodox theological Catholic doctrine of Freewill, have subsided into a
+mixture of both, which they cannot define nor explain to themselves nor
+to others.
+
+But although I had heard the cry of wolf too often to give it ready ear,
+solid difficulties presented themselves. A fortnight’s march up a
+pathless, densely wooded, and possibly waterless mountain, with bad
+tribes in rear and a desert in front, where all supplies must be carried
+by Krumen—poltroons who at the appearance of a fancied danger fling
+themselves into the bush, mutinous dogs whose one invariable tactic
+under difficulties is to make progress so hard and so dangerous, by
+bumping the master’s hammock against stub and stone, by inducing sore
+feet, or by diminishing the provisions, that the march must perforce be
+given up in disgust—may appear at home as feasible as a run through the
+Himalayas or the Andes: it wears, however, quite another aspect at
+Clarence Town.
+
+During my brief delay on the island another volunteer presented himself
+for the exploration, which assumed the air of a little international
+expedition. M. Atilano Calvo Iturburu, assessor or assistant judge, was
+as weary as myself of ‘palavers’ and Fernando Po: he obtained a month’s
+leave of absence, and zealously prepared to outfit himself. The reader
+must not confound him with certain venerable beings in wigs and gowns,
+owning to that style and title in England, but rather think of him as a
+fast young pig-sticking Anglo-Indian magistrate. Although we had looked
+into the craters on the summit of Ilha Formosa, I almost feared—not
+knowing him to be a Vascongado on the mother’s side—lest, after many
+fevers, he might break down upon the frozen heights of the Camaroons,
+and explained to him the conditions of exploration, namely go ahead at
+all risks, even if one or more be left behind, and to send on the
+stores, ‘the tools to him who can handle them.’ He responded cheerfully,
+and, so far from ‘caving in,’ he devanced me on one occasion, and when
+the party was laid up he preserved his health. I found him throughout an
+amiable and not unphilosophic man, whose society round the camp-fire
+added greatly to the pleasures of an evening in the wild.
+
+Betimes on Wednesday the 18th December, Judge Calvo and myself found
+ourselves off Ambas Bay in H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound,’ Lieut. Stokes
+commanding. As Morning, habited in her well-known russet mantle, walked
+over the beautiful Camaroons, we could distinguish the features of the
+scenery, which, viewed from the south-eastern entrance, are even more
+enchanting than when seen from the western approach. The immense height
+of the wooded curtain behind dwarfed the several islands that sentinel
+the bay to mere patches of a darker hue; presently they stood out with a
+beautiful distinctness, and relieved the sea of any appearance of
+monotony. Already the hand of Autumn—I should rather say the dry
+season—had besprinkled the many-hued foliage with red and yellow, whilst
+others, beautiful in their new coats, were decked with large masses of
+flowers, some white, others resembling the peony. Rising from the ruddy
+cliffs that wall in the harbour, the land sloped upwards to 5000 feet
+within about three miles; thin curls of blue smoke rose here and there,
+evidencing settlements, and the little canoes of the fishermen flitted
+over the milky blue waters. We steamed through the eastern channel, a
+clear entrance 880 yards wide with 5 to 6 fathoms of water, under
+Mananga Point, the high terminal bluff separating Ambas from Man-of-
+War’s Bay, and defending Victoria Harbour from the violence of the
+south-western winds.
+
+Landing at the Missionary establishment, we found Mr. Saker up and
+ready: M. Mann had set out in advance, and we agreed to follow him next
+morning. On the same evening the ‘Bloodhound’ left us for Lagos, where
+she was to convey her ex-commander Lieutenant Dolben, and whence she was
+to proceed under Lieutenant Stokes to the much-desired South-Coast
+station. With regret I saw her leave. The Russian saying touching houses
+may be applied to ships in these regions: ‘Build the soundest
+imaginable, and the cockroaches will be in them before the owners.’ She
+was certainly very ‘roachy.’ But her comfortable dimensions made her a
+great contrast to the fast and narrow ‘screws’ which are now fashionable
+upon the West African Coast; she had been my home for well-nigh a month;
+and to one whose usual tenement is his hat, a good lodging and pleasant
+society are not to be lost sight of _sans serrement de cœur_.
+
+
+[Footnote 5: Smaller volcanoes like Vesuvius ‘change almost
+imperceptibly from the steepest incline at which the outermost ashes and
+rocks will hang together, to a curve which ultimately sweeps away into a
+horizontal direction.’ But in those the cone bears a far greater
+proportion to the whole than in such features as the Camaroons and
+Fernando Po, consequently the angle of the culminating line appears
+excessive.]
+
+[Footnote 6: Fernando Po Peak was ascended as early as 1843.]
+
+[Footnote 7: As far as volcanic action is known, the different crater-
+vents communicate by ducts with the same central cause—very distinct
+from all idea of parasitism.]
+
+[Footnote 8: ‘The river Camaroon with the Ambas Islands,’ by Capt. W.
+Allen, H.M.S. ‘Wilberforce,’ 1842, with additions by Mr. V. F. Johnson,
+H.M.S. ‘Philomel.’ The soundings and positions of the Hydrographical
+Chart are of course tolerably correct; the names of tribes and places
+are all more or less wrong.]
+
+[Footnote 9: The Spanish colony that landed at Fernando Po in 1858
+attributed the greater part of its losses to the inhumanity of the black
+people, who made a combination not to lodge them, and agreed to ‘cut
+their chop’—_anglicè_, to starve them.]
+
+[Footnote 10: Writing from Fernando Po, May 31st, 1860, to Sir Wm.
+Hooker, M. Mann says:—‘I heard that you had inquired if it were possible
+to ascend the mountain of Bimbia or Camaroon. You will hear shortly that
+it is quite impossible, and only killing men to send them up there;
+this, however, was also told me before I went up Clarence Peak. It is,
+no doubt, _very_ difficult, but it is possible; only too much must not
+be expected from the first trip.’ (From the ‘Journal of the Proceedings
+of the Linnæan Society,’ vol. vi.)]
+
+[Footnote 11: ‘A knowledge of the temperate flora of any spot on the
+West Coast of tropical Africa has long been one of the greatest
+desiderata in botanical geography, not only on account of the intrinsic
+interest that must attach to the plants of the extremely few isolated
+points so elevated as to possess a temperate climate in that vast humid
+and torrid area, but also from the light such lights might be exacted to
+throw on the floras of St. Helena, the Cape de Verd, and the Canaries,
+all of which (and especially the former) contain peculiar endemic
+genera, whose nearest allies might be expected to exist in the mountains
+of the neighbouring continent.’—‘Journal of the Proceedings of the
+Linnæan Society,’ vol. vi.]
+
+[Footnote 12: Loc. sup. cit.]
+
+[Footnote 13: Meaning a man of the Bakwiri tribe or bushmen, from kwiri,
+a bush. The word is Isubu. This small _échantillon_ will suffice to show
+that the dialects of East and West Africa are as closely connected as
+their flora. Here also there is a slight European importation; I
+particularly remarked ‘bwámo,’—good!—and suspected the Spanish bueno.
+
+Despite the dicta of Dr. Beke (‘On the Mountains forming the Eastern
+Side of the Basin of the Nile’—a paper full of good and borrowed but
+unacknowledged information), who on this point follows Mr. E. Norris’s
+edition of ‘Prichard’s History of Man,’ I still deem it advisable to
+retain these ‘terse and concise African prefixes,’ which, if abandoned,
+would necessitate a weary redundancy of words. They can hardly, as Mr.
+Norris says, ‘occasion puzzlement to the readers of African
+intelligence,’ unless intelligence be sadly wanting in the readers. Mr.
+Norris and Dr. Beke omit the Kafir prefix ‘when it has not become part
+and parcel of the English appellation,’ deeming it ‘not only awkward,
+but positively incorrect.’ With due modesty I venture to opine that they
+have substituted for a fancied awkwardness a real blunder. To call
+‘Unyamwezi’ and ‘Usumbara’ ‘Nyamwezi’ and ‘Sumbara,’ is about as correct
+as to term ‘Britain’ and ‘Britons’ ‘Brit’ or ‘Brits.’]
+
+[Footnote 14: ‘Narrative of the Niger Expedition in 1841,’ by Capt. W.
+Allen, R.N., and T. R. N. Thompson, Esq., M.D., London, Bentley, 1848.
+It was written some time after the return of the authors from that
+disastrous attempt, and is a valuable work.]
+
+[Footnote 15: The Bakwiri, who are erroneously called Bakwileh in the
+chart, use R for L, opposed to the tribes about Batanga, who use L for
+R; here, moreover, there are neither sibilants nor aspirates. Their
+speech, like the Kisawahili, abounds in K, a letter avoided in the
+Dualla or Camaroons dialect.]
+
+[Footnote 16: MS. Geological Journal, Niger Expedition.]
+
+[Footnote 17: Captain Allen (vol. ii. chap. vii.) distinctly asserts
+that this submarine ridge exists; on the other hand, there are
+shipmasters at Fernando Po who declare that the water rapidly deepens
+from the shore to 80 fathoms.]
+
+[Footnote 18: Others say nine: the chart gives six feet of rise at full
+and change.]
+
+[Footnote 19: ‘In the latter half of the day I was much refreshed by the
+constant sea-breeze, which in Fernando Po we seldom enjoy, and which
+renders Victoria such a pleasant and agreeable residence for
+Europeans.’—M. Mann, ‘Journal of the Proceedings of the Linnæan Society
+of London,’ Botany, vol. vii.]
+
+[Footnote 20: From this old author I extract (Appendix I.) an accurate
+and truthful description of the region, which is not noticed by his
+contemporary Bosman, who yet alludes to the De El Rei and the Camaroons
+rivers. The reader will not fail to remark how greatly the islanders
+have changed since those days.]
+
+[Footnote 21: ‘Camaroon’ in the Mauritius means crawfish.]
+
+[Footnote 22: This gallant officer succeeded in 1830 to the government
+of the settlement formed at Fernando Po by Capt. Owen in 1827; he also
+has left his mark in Nicolls Island at the mouth of the Bimbia river.]
+
+[Footnote 23: This assertion rests upon the direct authority of Capt.
+Allen (vol. ii. chap. vii.).]
+
+[Footnote 24: In Appendix II. I have republished Mr. Merrick’s narrative
+from the Baptist Magazine of 1845.]
+
+[Footnote 25: The faculty begins quietly and gingerly to confess this
+belief. ‘The evidence that intemperance in drinking exerts a particular
+influence in the production of hepatitis is by no means conclusive;’ and
+‘the occurrence of hepatitis, on the other hand, in its severest form,
+is not an unusual event in persons of temperate habits—a statement which
+practitioners in India generally will, I am sure, amply confirm,’ says
+Dr. Morehead (‘Diseases of India’). He might have instanced the case of
+M. Jacquemont, who, deriding the English consumption of beef and beer,
+scientifically Hinduized himself with rice and water, and died at the
+end of the year of an invincible dysentery.]
+
+[Footnote 26: I have reprinted Mr. Laird’s letter in Appendix V.]
+
+[Footnote 27: It must, however, be owned that, beyond the expulsion
+order, the Spanish authorities have shown great toleration; in fact, if
+their rule has a fault, it is over lenity. A French commandant would
+certainly have billeted his men upon the negro townspeople when they
+refused to let lodgings and they ‘cut chop.’ The negro Baptists tried
+hard to enjoy a little persecution: during their private prayer
+meetings, or when ‘sitting under’ an occasional missionary from the
+mainland—churches are not permitted—they pretended great fear, closing
+doors and shutters whenever they inflicted injury upon the sweet songs
+of Zion. The Spanish wisely ignored all these little fooleries. The
+people are of some 30 to 40 nations, originally from Sierra Leone, with
+a few _emancipados_ from the Oil Rivers. They are justly described by
+Capt. Allen as ‘a lazy population of liberated Africans,’ who neglect
+the advantages of one of the richest soils in the world. They are now
+perfectly contented; many boast of being Spaniards, and they will
+probably all come over to the old Church, where, however, they will be
+no acquisition. There is probably not a soul amongst them that can
+distinguish a Protestant from a Catholic sermon. The a’mighty dollar is
+slowly but surely working its way. The salaries being defrayed by Cuba
+are liberal at Fernando Po, and considerable sums are spent in the
+island. The governor, who reports directly home to the President of
+Council (Minister of War and of Colonies), besides pay and allowances of
+8000 dollars per annum, may dispose yearly of 25,000 dollars for local
+improvements. If we had sanctioned even this much in the Gold Coast and
+other outlying provinces, they would not now be in ruins. One million of
+reals was assigned for the immigration of colonists during the first
+year, and the Jesuit Mission has been allowed 6000 dollars per annum.
+Whilst the British consulship is worth 500_l._, the Spanish Secretary to
+the Civil Judge receives 3000 dollars, and the interpreter 2000 dollars.
+Besides which there is the expenditure of the naval and military
+establishments; two hulks, one steam gun-vessel, and a picked company of
+150 infantry, each paid 10 dollars per mens., with two captains and a
+similar number of lieutenants, sub-lieutenants, and surgeons.
+
+Prices of course became exorbitant; three shillings were paid for a lean
+chicken smaller than an English pigeon; the negroes, however, made merry
+and lived in a congenial idleness, which has more than compensated for
+the loss of their ‘morning (and evening) privilege.’]
+
+[Footnote 28: A glance at Mr. Keith Johnstone’s latest map of Africa
+will show that the only purely white paper is bounded by the limits
+above assigned.]
+
+[Footnote 29: As a rule, the lines of volcanic disturbance run in a
+diagonal to the direction of the earth’s rotation—suggesting some tidal
+action in the gas or fluid underlying the earth’s crust—from N.W. to
+S.E. along the western side of the great terrestrial areas of Europe,
+Asia, and America; they may be traced again along the eastern side
+almost as continuously, trending in transverse lines from S.W. to N.E.,
+as from Mexico to Greenland, and from Sumatra to Behring’s Straits;
+hence a general parallelism of coast, inland mountain, and axis of
+volcanic action is inferred.]
+
+[Footnote 30: Capt. Owen saw the Rumbi Mountains from a distance of 60
+miles, and made them 44 miles N.E. of Camaroons Peak. The Kwa (Qua)
+Mountains, which are visible from the Cross or Old Calabar River, are
+placed both by Captains Owen and Boteler (chap. xiv. vol. ii. ‘Narrative
+of a Journey of Discovery,’ Bentley, 1835) 64 miles N., 16° 15′ W. of
+the Camaroons, and were seen from nearly 80 miles.]
+
+[Footnote 31: In this range is Mount Alantika, to which the Hamburg
+traveller assigns an altitude of eight to ten thousand feet.]
+
+[Footnote 32: Mr. Beecroft ascended the Bimbia, but I am unable to find
+an account of his trip.]
+
+[Footnote 33: The northern limit is at present doubtful.]
+
+[Footnote 34: The reader will consult upon this subject the able paper
+on Ethno-Climatology, or the Acclimatization of Man, by Dr. Jas. Hunt
+(‘Trans. Ethnological Soc.,’ vol. ii., New Series). I differ with the
+author only in suspecting that he has attached too much importance to
+the danger of dysentery, hill-diarrhœa, and other bowel complaints in
+the altitudes above the malarious tropical regions. Altitude must not be
+our sole guide in sanitaria and hill stations; they can be judged only
+by actual experience, and a height which here is healthy is there found
+to be distinctly the reverse.]
+
+[Footnote 35: Somewhat similar was the opinion of the late Duke of
+Wellington, not to mention a cloud of competent observers and writers.
+Mr. Crawfurd (‘Trans. Ethnological Soc.,’ vol. i., New Series, p. 89)
+considers this ‘an hypothesis unsupported by facts,’ although every fact
+tends to prove it.]
+
+[Footnote 36: I had determined upon that period by an inspection of the
+chart. From Ambas Bay the direct distance is 13 miles, which must be
+multiplied by two for détours, and in such places an average of a mile
+per diem is fair progress. The following is a list of necessaries for a
+party of seven men:—
+
+                              £   _s._   _d._
+
+
+    7 blue shirts             2      5      6
+
+    7 serge trousers          3     10      0
+
+    7 pr. boots               3     10      0
+
+   12 red woollen caps        0      6      0
+
+    2 dozen matchets          1      0      0
+
+    2 hatchets                0      2     10
+
+    2 (water) breakers        0      8      8
+
+  452 lbs. rice               7     10      8
+
+  200 lbs. pork               7     10      0
+
+  14½ gallons rum             3      2     10
+
+    5 pieces blue baft        3      5      0
+
+    2 ditto satin stripe      0     17      4
+                            ------------------
+                            £33      8     10
+
+For private stores the best guide is any Alpine book, and even ‘Zouave
+leggings’ are not to be despised. Explorers in these regions must not
+forget that they are their own doctors, nor neglect caustic and
+diachylum; the reader will presently see how dear this little experience
+cost me.
+
+All the belongings should be carefully watched. Krumen will steal
+anything and everything they can. If the water-breakers be provided with
+lock and key they will, unless stopped by the stick, try the trick of
+breaking them, and all cutlery will rapidly disappear, knives being most
+useful as offerings of gallantry to the native belles.
+
+The prime difficulty here, as in other parts of Africa, is the
+_chaussure_. It is almost impossible to keep boots in order. The natural
+precautions are to procure the best and strongest articles that London
+makes—especially avoiding elastics—to use a little neats-foot oil
+instead of any vegetable unguents, and to keep them out of the reach of
+air and damp as much as possible. Even then two or three new pair will
+yield to the lava and other influences within the month.]
+
+[Footnote 37: The usual snowy season is the tornado period, in our
+spring and autumn, with occasional falls during the rains. From May to
+July, and from September to October, the appearance is common, at other
+times rare. Yet in February, 1860, Messrs. Saker and Mann, after a heavy
+storm, saw from Victoria the topmost cone sheeted with white; on the
+next day a few stripes remained, and on the 3rd all had disappeared. On
+the 14th February, 1862, Capt. Perry, H.M.S. ‘Griffon,’ and all on
+board, when steaming up Camaroons River, saw the whole main peak covered
+with snow.]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+                     WE ENCAMP AT ‘MANN’S SPRING.’
+
+
+Precisely at 6 A.M. on the next day we arose, despite the ravages of
+mosquitos and sand-flies—pernicious little wretches, midge-sized, but
+capable of raising lumps as large as billiard-balls upon man’s exposed
+epidermis—bade adieu to Mrs. and Miss Saker, and fifty minutes
+afterwards found ourselves _en route_, with a hurrah. The party
+consisted of four heads and eighteen tails. Mr. Saker was attended by
+two men, who carried his bedding, water-breaker, and a locked box of
+necessaries, such as rice, tea, cocoa, sugar, boiled ham, salt pork,
+sweet cake, soft bread, salt, chilis, and a pocket-pistol of cognac,
+which _we_ emptied, and the veteran voyager never took his eye off the
+commissariat. He was temporarily accompanied by Mr. Johnson, a native of
+the Susu country, near Sierra Leone, above thirty years a resident in
+these parts: he had begun life as factotum to Mr. Beecroft, and had
+settled down in his old age as a teacher in the Camaroons Mission. By
+his inducement, ‘Money,’ alias Muni, a Dimbia runaway from King William,
+who had previously deserted M. Mann, on pretext of his mother’s illness,
+but who in reality feared capture for debt by the villagers, accompanied
+us as guide.
+
+Judge Calvo travelled with four Krumen, all hopeless convicts from the
+_cuartel_ of Fernando Po, and his body servant, a youth named Eyo, who
+had succeeded in escaping the customs which followed the death of his
+patron, young Eyo Honesty, King of New Calabar. My party consisted of
+six men, under Black Will, a consummate ruffian,—these, brought to a
+sense of their duty, often make the best travellers. Despite, however, a
+sound preliminary dressing on board the ‘Bloodhound,’ and the vigorous
+applications of my excellent steward, Selim Aga, Black Will soon managed
+to sprain his ankle, and to return to Victoria. The tail was completed
+by four Krumen, who had been sent down from the mountains by M. Mann, to
+convoy a fresh supply of provisions. Not having ‘beef’ enough, we
+carried with us arms, surveying instruments, bedding, and rations for a
+week, leaving the remainder at Victoria till we could find hands.
+
+The young sun glinting through that ‘cathedral of immensities,’ the
+bush—Americans call our rivers creeks, and such is the magnificent
+Anglo-African term for a forest of trees some 100 to 150 feet high—saw
+us threading the little clearing behind the settlement. In this lower
+part, under the outlying hills, the vegetation consists of palms—the
+cocoa, confined to the immediate seaboard,[38] the _Raphia vinifera_,
+called, from its uses, the bamboo and the wine palm,[39] the _Elæis
+Guineensis_, or oil palm—and a variety of other trees, known only by
+scientific names to Europe. A forest at home is often composed of one
+genus, some of two or three, oak, elm, and beech; in the tropics they
+must be numbered by dozens. The monarch of all trees is the mighty
+_Bombax_. Of little inferior size are the scrubby oak of Sierra Leone
+(_Lophira alata Banksii_, the light-red wings of whose fruit ‘the lady-
+natives wear in their hair and ears’[40]), the African ‘oak’
+(_Oldfieldia Africana_, also called teak and mahogany, but neither this,
+that, nor the other), the sulphur-tree (_Morinda lucida Benthami_), also
+called brimstone-tree,—the latter three affording superior timber for
+house and ship-building. Of inferior size are the African cork (_Musanga
+Smithii_), the Kolu tree (_Sterculia acuminata_), and a variety of
+acacias and fici. The moss-streamers, so common in the Southern States
+of the late Union, and which gave a name to ‘Barbadoes,’ here appear
+upon the extremities only: at 7000 feet they will clothe the trees from
+boll to branch, and, by killing the smaller branches, render the forest
+somewhat unsafe during tornadoes. Where clearings have been made the
+Cardamom (an unknown Amomum—Danielli?), and large grasses, principally
+the broad-leaved panicum and the narrow saccharum,—which do not,
+however, cut like the sugar-cane,—extend from the shore to 4000 feet
+above sea-level, where smaller species take their place.
+
+However beautiful the forest may be, it is ever a melancholy sight in
+these lands, this riotous nature, against which man’s force has hitherto
+been unable to prevail. One’s principal thought is how best to fell it,
+and as there is little underwood the land cannot be difficult to clear.
+The natives usually hew down the trees about November, after the rains,
+lop off the branches, which are fired for manure at the end of the dry
+season, or about the last of February, leave the trunks to decay, and
+plant their crops, yams and koko (_C. esculenta_), ground-nuts and
+cassava, maize and batatas, before the wet season begins.[41]
+
+In these lower lands it would be necessary to corduroy a road. During
+the rains the traveller must slip from the stones to sink waist-deep in
+mire, and often when crossing over the mud his feet must hook in the
+tree-roots. The whole of this land, extending from the shore to 1500
+feet above sea-level, is a rich yellow loam, admirably fitted for sugar-
+cane, tobacco, and cacao. The latter is far better for these idle races
+than coffee, which requires slave labour.[42] The seed should be
+procured, unboiled,[43] from Prince’s Island or San Thomé, set in
+prepared patches, and weeded round when young. After twelve months it
+keeps its own ground clear, and bears fruit after the third year. The
+only labour is that of gathering the produce, breaking the husk,
+removing the seed, sun-drying for two or three days, and carrying to
+market: the sole objection to ‘theobroma’ is that it will not keep. The
+plaintain, which grows luxuriantly, might be made a source of
+wealth.[44]
+
+After a thirty minutes’ walk we found the tall grasses beginning. A
+little further we passed the path leading through the Batongo to the
+Bimbia country, here distant about ten miles, and from that point twenty
+miles of creek passage places the traveller in the Camaroons River.
+Beyond it the line became steeper, and we saw, through a thin screen of
+trees, the conical head of Mount Henry rising high to eastward of us. We
+twice forded the black bed of a pure and purling little stream, which
+seemed admirably adapted for water power. It varied in breadth from
+twenty-five to eighty feet, and in depth from two feet to six inches,
+and the dark stones both in the stream and on the banks were covered
+with the snowy flowers of a small aroid. The general course was to the
+S.S.W., and it was either the main stream, or a feeder of the rivulet
+which flows into the sea close to Victoria. The dense wet scrub now
+completely excluded the sun, and beyond the second fording began a steep
+and rocky ascent of degraded basalt.
+
+Here we met villagers seemingly on their way to market. The dress of the
+many was a cotton _pagne_ or wrapper; the poorer were clad in the simple
+attire of the Fernandian Bube,[45] and of the Eastern Wagogo. A grass
+string was fastened round the waist, and a strip of cloth was made to
+act as T-bandage, an isosceles triangle, sometimes tight, and two inches
+broad at the base, at other times with ends depending in front. The
+original costume was, I believe, a kilt of plaintain-leaves. The stuffs
+were the common English cloths of barter, satin stripe, blue baft,
+turkey-red cheques, and a few silk bandanas. The ornaments were the
+small red and yellow, blue and white porcelain beads general in the
+Camaroons River; the incisors of the porcupine tied by a thread round
+the neck, and a multitude of ‘Lobo’-armlets[46] of brass, copper, and
+iron, especially the ‘manilla,’ a form now well-nigh obsolete. The head
+was mostly bare, and the shaving, as usual, highly fanciful. A few had
+calottes of blackened bamboo-splints inside and goatskin outside, and
+one young person wore a cap of some animal’s intestines. They walked
+with alpenstocks, between five and six feet long, in shape not unlike
+the Galician fungueiro. The extreme slipperiness of the clayey soil
+after rain—I have seen many an old mountaineer on his back both here and
+at Fernando Po—renders this third leg a necessity. It is sometimes
+neatly carved, and provided with a round bulge for a snuff-box at the
+handle. The men carried weapons, old muskets with greasy rags wrapped
+round the rusty locks, or long broad blades in skin sheaths, ending in a
+leathern disk, like the daggers of the Somal. Those who could not afford
+such costly sorts had common ‘matchets,’ thin choppers of base metal
+fitted with wooden handles. The women were evidently the bees of the
+social hive; almost all of them were laden with large black panniers of
+bamboo cane shaped and strapped to the back, except when the place was
+already occupied by the baby, clinging racoon-like to the parental
+person, and supported by a foot square of grass-cloth, with shoulder
+braces. There was little of beauty among the fair and faithless Bakwiri;
+some of them, however, had firmly-made lower limbs, like the _mollets_
+of the constitutional-loving Englishwoman. The elders were ‘bales of
+cadaverous goods,’ the juniors had the grotesque prettiness of the baby
+gorilla, and some wore their faces blackened in sign of mourning, a
+practical illustration of sending coals to Newcastle, lily-painting, or
+gold-gilding. They were wonderfully tattooed with a blue, produced, it
+is said, by the soot of some root and a resinous gum picked up on the
+shore. The patterns were fanciful _sévignés_, perpendicular lines down
+the forehead, artificial eyebrows,—the natural being shaven,—wedges
+between the optics and temples, circles and wheels upon the cheeks and
+chin, and similar efforts of high art. The eyelashes were plucked, with
+the usual unpleasant effect, making the organ look bleared, fixed, and
+beast-like. The operation is an infallible preventive to
+
+
+  ‘Ce trait de feu qui des yeux passe à l’âme,
+
+   De l’âme aux sens.’
+
+
+All, even children three or four years old, were clamorous for a
+_prise_. In these countries both sexes sensibly use tobacco, which in
+Europe has mostly been monopolized by the wrong sex. It is placed
+between the lip and teeth,[47] and even the common powder made by Krumen
+is preferred to the best smoking leaf. They appeared healthy. A few
+cases of ulcers and hydrocele were seen, but on the whole they were
+freer from disease than our party of Krumen.
+
+As we advanced a single woodman’s hut appeared upon the roadside, the
+scattered plantations showing a tolerable population; and loud musket
+reports were heard rumbling and echoing through the hills. Mr. Johnson
+accounted for them by some recent death. The wood was vocal with the
+hoo-hoo-hoo of the touraco, which a stranger might mistake for a dog’s
+bark. The palm-birds fluttered round their nested tree; and the widow-
+bird perched upon the spray. At times a brown kite (_F. chilla_) lay on
+the wing, the sole sign, except the sand-fly, of animal life. After an
+ugly pull up rocks and roots, dotted with grass, and bewildered by a
+labyrinth of paths—our carriers were compelled to rest every half-
+hour—we entered the district of Bosumbo, and found three scattered tents
+tenanted by Bakwiri. These people do not, like the Fernandian Bubes,
+congregate in towns: the scarcity of water and petty feuds keep them
+separate. They do not inhabit the immediate seaboard for fear of
+kidnappers; nor do they extend up the mountains higher than the banana
+and the oil palm. Their habitat is therefore, as is the case with the
+Bubes, between 1000 and 3000 feet above sea-level. Mr. Johnson insisted
+upon leading us to the tenement of the chief, Myombi, who lives,
+probably for safety, like most of his fellows, in the centre of his
+district. At 10·30 A.M. we reached the place, two blocks, each of two
+huts, surrounded by plantains, and separated by a hundred yards or so.
+It lies between N.N.E. and N. of Victoria, distant about 4½ miles;[48]
+and the altitude is 1055 feet. Presently Myombi himself made his
+appearance in the glazed hat of a British tar—these people must make
+themselves ridiculous in some way—and showed us a little civility, which
+time proved to be not wholly disinterested. We halted at his place for
+breakfast: water threatening not to last, we experimented upon the
+banana-stalk, and found its porous and cellular tissue to contain a
+refreshing supply of wholesome drink, with a faint flavour of cucumber.
+Some of the natives have not, it is said, any other potable; and it
+forms excellent fodder for cattle, keeping fresh for three weeks. Mr.
+Johnson mentioned succulent herbs and water-bulbs, like those of the
+South African karroos; none, however, were met with.
+
+Noon saw as again on the footpath way. A short distance out of Bosumbo
+took us to a quadrivium, of which the north-east branch led down the
+hill-slopes, through a country of scattered settlements, to the populous
+town of Abo;[49] the south and east to the sea; and the west, our
+direction, up the mountain. Myombi had been persuaded, by the gift of a
+pair of matchets, to lend us a guide. The sun’s heat was overpowering in
+the lanes of grass that here opened out, and there strangled the road.
+It was a fine place for snakes. They are rare, however, in these dank
+regions; the only specimen seen was a fine asp (Cerastes), hanging
+outside one of the cottages. The bearing of our path somewhat perplexed
+me; we struck nearly due west; and instead of ascending from, we seemed
+descending to, the sea. Presently the cause appeared in a few scattered
+huts, called Turu,[50] whose chief came forth and forbade passage till
+presented with a cloth and a matchet. We then resumed the road, which
+dwindled to a hardly perceptible by-path, crossing from east to west,
+with other ramifications leading, it was said, to Bimbia. Here the face
+of the country was wrinkled with prisms of jagged trachytic rock,
+separated by chasms, cloughs, and ravines, which must roll torrents
+during the rains, and by pick and spade might easily be made to supply
+water throughout the year. We passed many old clearings, or rather
+fallows, denoted by high grass and plantains run wild, and a few fresh
+cuttings, a hundred feet each way, in the dense bush. The rocky, rooty
+ground rendered walking difficult, and condemned us to look more often
+at our feet than at the features of the country. On the dank, miry
+surface, unseen by the midday sun, the ants were unusually troublesome;
+and we found a few millepedes and land-shells, which were secured for
+transmission home. Llianas, which here extend from 2000 to 7000 feet
+high, ‘romped upon the trees.’ There were asclepiadæ, gardeniaceæ,
+convolvulaceæ, and cucurbitous plants, whose fruit, like the cocoa,
+forms a convenient water-dipper. The dry season is in these regions the
+flowery period. The ipomæa, a bright blue convolvulus, and momordica
+with red-yellow flower and little prickly gourd, invested the bush where
+it was more than usually open. The clematis was beautiful with its
+spangles of white bloom; and we especially remarked a geranium; a
+papilionaceous bean-like blossom of vivid scarlet; a perfumed flower,
+not unlike a honeysuckle; and the large yellow malvacea, popularly
+called hibiscus. There were orchids in numbers; but these epiphytes in
+Africa lack the beauty of the American. The conspicuous tree of the
+forest was the enormous eriodendron; the anthocleista and monodora were
+remarkable for their foliage; whilst the sterculia, though leafless,
+glowed with carmine-coloured fruit.
+
+After three miles of hard labour, which made us tremble for our loaded
+Krumen’s feet, and halt frequently to recruit exhausted nature with
+_anizado_ and water, the guide suddenly exclaimed, ‘Mboka Botani!’
+(Botani’s town). It had an ominous sound; and we were afterwards
+justified in terming it Botany Bay. The district is called Mapanya. Here
+every place appears to have two names, its own and that of its head-man.
+Presently tall shredded plantains appeared rustling in the now cooler
+breeze, which was odorous with a salvia bearing a fair blue flower. An
+African stile, three transverse rungs for steps—sometimes there is a
+notched palm-trunk—in the dwarf but solid palisade, introduced us to a
+settlement of two huts, from which the unarmed tenants sallied forth
+with horrid din, to gaze upon us with absorbed stare. During our few
+minutes’ _séance_ the judge descried a horn, probably ivory, and
+proposed adding it to his collection: the owner, however, modestly
+demanded only a hat, a coat, and a shirt; in fact, he wanted to become a
+‘gentleman.’ The warning of the guide, who pointed to a sinking sun,
+brought us to our feet again; and after sundry rises and sinkings of
+ground we saw upon the summit of a grassy and flowery hill a figure in
+wide-awake and blanket-suit, which proved to be M. Mann. He had spent
+the day—as his first words informed us—in rest, having returned but
+yesterday evening from the summit. The announcement caused us to ‘tie a
+face,’ as the Africans say. Soon, however, I reflected that, considering
+the distance and the height, it was some mistake on his part; and this
+it proved to be. The enterprising botanist, so far from having scaled
+the summit, had never even seen it. Meanwhile he led us into a hut which
+he had cleared out and occupied, supplied us with some bad green water,
+which he had purchased at the rate of three tobacco-leaves per
+breaker,[51] and an excellent pepper-pot of yam and fowl.
+
+We had hardly seated ourselves, and removed from our continuations the
+hamated burrs of the hedysarum,[52] before Botani, a buxom chief, made
+his appearance, and M. Mann introduced him as ‘an unusually polite
+person, quite different from those he had previously seen.’ He was a
+short thickset individual, aged about thirty-five, with a well-turned,
+hillman’s leg. His complexion, like that of his wives—many of whom had
+‘taken venues under their girdles’—and his children, who were numerous,
+was a sallow yellow, a tint rare about the Camaroons River: the contrast
+with the dark brown of his followers would suggest in Eastern Africa a
+difference of descent. His brown eyes were bare of lash and brow; his
+long fat upper lip was clean shaven; his beard was the Yankee goatee;
+and he had a regulation whisker, tattooed in bright blue. Not less
+laughable than his _personale_ was this Soulouque’s costume: a lofty
+black beaver, a scanty breech-cloth of chequed cotton, and a full-dress
+coatee, all red and yellow—‘devil’s livery’—of the old Royal Marines.
+Thus attired _en roi_, he progressed towards the hut-door; and whilst
+the vulgar squatted upon the ground, shouting a song and beating time,
+he performed a solemn pavane, ending in a lavolt, a turn-about, a wheel-
+about, and a jump Jim Crow, in right royal African style. A frantic
+pushing of palms, as if he would prostrate each new-comer friend, and an
+accolade, right breast to right breast, were the signs of absolute
+welcome which our Polichinelle vouchsafed to us. The judge roared with
+delight; but I felt grave. When the negro king dances he expects the
+white man to pay the piper somewhat heavily.
+
+The edifying exercise concluded, M. Mann told us the tale of his
+troubles. On the 13th December, after a ‘dash’ of ten
+‘little’—pronounced lill—‘tings,’ each worth a shilling,[53] to Myombi
+and Nangasika, the first and second head-men of Bosumbo, he had left
+Victoria with Mr. Pinnock, Money his interpreter, six Krumen, and a
+Mokwiri guide, with seven followers, who had received, as fee for safe
+conduct to Mapanya, four pieces, _i.e._ goods worth 4_l._ Arrived in the
+evening at the Bosumbo, which he called ‘Bassumba,’ village, he gave the
+chief his present—an assortment of ‘lill’ tings’ worth about thirty
+shillings. The next day was a compulsory halt; the natives, pleading
+fatigue, refused to proceed, and Mr. Money, having drawn payments to the
+amount of 2_l._ in kind, naturally ran away. Thus the traveller was
+reduced to employ as interpreter a boy seven or eight years old, a
+Bimbia orphan in the service of Mr. Pinnock, and rejoicing in the name
+of ‘Poor Fellow.’ This was the first mishap. Everywhere in Africa the
+interpreter should be a man of weight and wealth. On the 15th, Myombi
+again refused passage till dashed to the extent of 2_l._ in a coat, a
+keg of powder, and minor articles. Here was a decided mistake, which
+patience would have prevented. The only return gift was a small black
+porker, a wretched fowl, and two yams. M. Mann, however, starting at 8
+A.M., reached in four hours his _Meta Incognita_, Mapanya. On the 16th,
+Botani, who had left home ordering a hut to be cleared for his visitor,
+returned without pomp or dancing, and received his ‘dash’—one musket,
+one keg of powder, matchets and knives, snuff-box, mirror, rum, tobacco,
+and silk and cotton kerchiefs, worth in toto about 2_l._ 10_s._, for
+which he agreed to supply an escort. On the 17th the chief brought
+eleven men, and demanded for them each one head of tobacco and one
+fathom of cloth, besides extra blackmail for himself, a musket, sundry
+kerchiefs, rum, and tobacco, in value, perhaps, thirty shillings. M.
+Mann set out at 7 A.M., reached the water, which he afterwards
+christened by his name, at 5 P.M., and nighted a little beyond it. On
+the next day, the natives having disappeared, he was accompanied by two
+Krumen only to a Cone, where he left his maximum and minimum
+thermometers, and whence he returned—persuaded that he had reached _the_
+Peak, which was under a cloud—arriving at Mapanya on the 18th December.
+
+It is evident that ten guineas will not pay the expenses of a vacation
+tour to the Camaroons Highlands, as it has been made to do in
+Switzerland.
+
+After the ‘stagnant air and leaden sky, the livid clouds and rain-
+torrents, heavy, prone, and broad,’ in the oil rivers, the ‘dissolution
+and thaw’ of Fernando Po, and the ‘simmering upon a damp mattress’ in
+the regions below, we enjoyed a pleasant soirée in the soft, light, hazy
+air. At 6 P.M. the thermometer showed 69° Fahr., in the Camaroons River
+it rarely sinks below 73°, and ranges from that to 82°. The Krumen,
+being sadly tired, asked, after their fashion, leave to play, and sang
+and danced through half the night. Mr. Saker and I slept in M. Mann’s
+tent, composed of three blankets, two for the pent-roof, and one for the
+boot and entrance. The judge and the botanist preferred the hard-knobbed
+floor of the tent.
+
+My heart fell at the prospect before us. We had four sets of Krumen, the
+most disorderly of their unruly herd. All were apparently to be masters;
+it was the old query—
+
+
+  ‘I Señor—thou Señor—he Señor,
+
+   Tell me who’ll pull the boat ashore?’
+
+
+They entered the tent and impudently took whatever they inclined to, rum
+and tobacco, pork and white rice. We had set apart a breaker of pure
+water; they pushed in and helped themselves _ad libitum_. The savage
+instinct readily returns upon this race. I have heard old man-of-war’s
+Krumen tell their Captain that in the bush all men are equal. They
+contributed not a little to the failure of the Niger expedition in 1857.
+The members, supersaturated with Exeter Hall influences, treated their
+forty-seven negroes like rational beings. A little ‘prigging’ began;
+first a few leaves of tobacco, then a mirror, a knife, a matchet: after
+a few weeks the supercargo found that he had lost goods to the extent of
+240_l._
+
+My resolution was taken during that cool pleasant night, which was
+succeeded by a delightful morning, the mercury showing 64° Fah. at 5
+A.M., and the small birds singing with all their throats. At the break
+of day we arose, banished the thoughts of the sand-flies with strong
+green tea, and saw our breath—What a pleasure to the Englishman in the
+tropics! My companions were persuaded to place the Kruman party under my
+charge, and I made them over to Selim Aga with an order that no man
+should enter the tent or touch the rations without leave. The fellows
+listened with a smile, and instantly disobeyed, a proceeding as readily
+noticed by the soundest external application. ‘He be debbil man,’ was
+the remark with which my ears were gratified. This, however, was the
+beginning of amendment; the fustigations were afterwards more
+ceremoniously conducted, and at the end of a fortnight my rascals were
+in fair working order, sighing for ‘Nanny Po,’ which at other places
+they regard with horror.
+
+The 20th December was a Friday, and a halt. Mr. Johnson and Money, whose
+services were no longer required, returned to Victoria, and seven Krumen
+under Selim Aga accompanied them, with orders to bring a fresh relay of
+provisions. We had ample time to cast a look around Mapanya and at its
+population.
+
+The clearing lies W.N.W. of Victoria, and N.N.W. of Bosumbo. It is
+distant from the sea about 7½ miles,[54] and the altitude was laid down
+at 2650 feet. The site is a dwarf platform, and the enclosure is 1100
+feet across. Curious to say, in this land of chronic skirmish there are
+no stockades, the use of which is so well known to Africans. As early as
+1562 Sir John Hawkins had 6 men killed and 40 wounded, out of a total of
+150 men, before one of these ‘Pahs’ near Elmina. It is surrounded by a
+dense bush, in which the saccharum grows ten to eleven feet high, and
+the plantain, the cork-tree, and that locally called gamboge
+(_Psorospermum alternifolium_), forming a background. A little below the
+entrance is the last Elæis, that typical tropical type, here stunted to
+about thirty feet. The natives, I have said, cannot live without this
+tree: they tap it for their drink every morning, leaving an empty
+calabash for the next day’s draughts, and during the operation they make
+the peculiar laughing, crowing cry, which, echoed by the hills, sounds
+weird and strange in the wild. They prepare a modicum of oil for
+household use, and carry to market the fresh nuts removed from the
+spike. Where the wood opens there is a lovely view. Thousands of feet
+above us, bearing N. ¼ W., and emerging from the shaggy folds of the
+mountain, are three ‘nicks,’ as they are called in the North Country,
+one wooded, the two upper bare. M. Mann informed us that we should find
+water behind the highest and boldest Cone, which can be seen from
+Fernando Po, and we named them the ‘Three Sisters.’ The background,
+dense with eternal forest, which shuts in the higher cones, is clear and
+sharp between 8 and 9·30 A.M., and again an hour before sunset: during
+day, however, it is hid at this season by a veil of muslin-like vapour.
+Below us we sight, as though through the small end of a telescope, the
+blue and misty ocean, with its edge, not rising in the lowlands like a
+wall on the horizon, but ill defined and melting into sky; and by
+walking a few paces we see a bird’s-eye view of Mondori Island, the
+Bimbia Hills, hung in middle space between firmament and ocean, and the
+Camaroons River, winding, like a dull white thread, through an abyss of
+brownish blue.
+
+The settlement consists of two parallel lines of huts, four on one side
+facing three on the other, as near the Camaroons and Gaboon Rivers,
+forming the nucleus of a single street, which runs into a steep grass-
+lined by-path, leading up the mountain. There are also little tracks and
+passages through the bush to the adjoining villages. The only objects of
+remark are a few large grindstones, the dwarf trellises for gourds
+growing at the entrance, and in the centre, propped by other stones, a
+small basaltic block, hollowed out like a shallow mortar. Before our
+arrival M. Mann had seen the principal men busy in ‘making Fetish’ to
+ward off bad luck and to keep the peace. They poured water from a dipper
+over a small broom placed upon this embryo altar, and offered similar
+libations on all the roads leading out of the villages. It is a race
+
+
+  ‘Whose primitive religion reaches
+
+   As far as Adam’s first green breeches;’
+
+
+but this time their Fetish was not ‘strong.’
+
+The huts are oblongs, with pent-roofs of palm-thatch, and the walls are
+wattled posts of the strong and fibrous tree-fern, covered with sheets
+of bark to keep out the wind. Near the outside lie stones and logs, used
+as chairs, and the experienced eye notices the ominous drum. It is
+shaped like a large keg, with two parallel slits in one of the long
+ends, leaving between them a solid bar for handle;[55] the reverse side,
+upon which it stands, is flattened, and the sticks are a pair of little
+cudgels. The huts have a single door, but neither window nor chimney.
+The interior is divided into three: at one end is a dark chamber,
+serving, I presume, for the father and mother that make the family; the
+centre is the hall, &c.; and the other extremity may be called the
+kitchen, containing a rough hearth and an upper platform, below which
+meat is smoked in a hanging tray, and above which fuel is stored.
+Furniture there is none; the beds are coarse hatchet hewed planks four
+feet long, and placed upon cross-blocks. Cleanliness is the last thing
+thought of; the ceiling looks as if painted with coal-tar, the air reeks
+with smoke, and the floors show that sheep, goats, and poultry pass the
+night with their owners.
+
+Under such circumstances life is necessarily simple. These gymnosophists
+have no want but food and drink, fuel and tobacco. Of course they will
+not labour, and, if they did, they would be fools. A few hours’ work in
+the year enables them to burn some square yards in the bush and to plant
+their banana-stems, after which climate does the rest. The Bakwiri rise
+with the dawn, and shiver till the fire is lit. The men then hasten to
+their palm-trees, and to assist them in their ascent, carry a hoop made
+of many kinds of creepers. It is an oval, of three feet conjugate; the
+part intended for behind the back is broad, that which touches the tree
+is twisted, and the ends are hooked and knotted together.[56] In the
+rainy season it is necessary to cut little steps in the trunk. The
+women, shouldering their panniers, go forth for food and water. About
+the latter article there is a mystery. When we ask where they find it,
+the reply is, ‘too far off;’ they refuse to show it. We observe that the
+people grease themselves with palm-oil instead of washing—imagine the
+consequences!—and that the animals are not allowed to drink. They return
+after some time from various directions, bearing calabashes corked with
+leaves, and the contents are turbid or green. We conclude, therefore,
+that their wells are probably stagnant pools, soon exhausted, and that
+they are then reduced to squeezing ferns, grasses, and dewy plants for
+their beverage. Presently the little flocks, which have kept up a
+concert of cries, are driven out by the boys to graze. The goats, like
+the Camaroons ‘Egbo,’ are superior to those of the coast; the sheep are
+of the lanky, hairy, thin-tailed kind, resembling dogs rather than
+Southdowns. These animals are greatly valued by the people, who will not
+sell them except for exorbitant sums; they are better treated than the
+children, and are used chiefly to pay ransoms, to settle palavers, or to
+serve as stock when ‘trust’ fails. They are never milked, and when we
+applied for a little of the article the answer was, ‘King he no will!’
+The poultry is plentiful and good, but hardly to be bought. I saw
+amongst them the short-shanked African variety, black and yellow game-
+birds like those of Tenerife, and a breed of hens with spurs like cocks.
+Each village contains half a dozen long-legged pigs, somewhat like the
+black hogs of China, which are as familiar to the hut and as foul to the
+street as the Irishman’s best friend. A few prick-eared curs are also
+bred for the table and for hunting purposes. The children are numerous,
+and the high birth-rate amongst savages is the best test of prosperity,
+as increased infant mortality is the surest sign of civilization.
+
+At 8 A.M. the villagers break their fast. The food is ‘fufu’ of
+plantain, pounded and made into paste with water; it is eaten with a
+kind of ‘palaver sauce,’ palm-oil, yam, hibiscus (_Corchorus olitorius_,
+the Egyptian mulukhiyah), and, when they can get it, ‘bush-meat.’ The
+women work through the day; the men pass their time chatting, smoking,
+and taking snuff, sleeping, brawling, and drinking—when rum is not to be
+had—palm-wine, which is boiled for greater strength. At 3 P.M. the
+flocks are folded, and at 4 there is a dinner like the breakfast. Wood
+and water are again brought in, and at 8 P.M. the village is as silent
+as the grave. Thus—
+
+
+  ‘Les jours qui viennent et vont
+
+     Se refont.’
+
+
+‘What a wretched existence!’ the European reader will exclaim.
+
+I vehemently doubt this. The so-called reflecting part of Creation will
+measure every other individual’s happiness or misery by its own;
+consequently it is hoodwinked in its judgment. Considering the wisdom
+displayed in the distribution and adaptation of mankind, I venture to
+opine that all are equally blessed and cursed: both sexes and every age,
+the great and lowly, the rich and poor, the robust and the confirmed
+invalid. Some temperaments enjoy more acutely, and suffer in proportion;
+others are less sensitive; both, however, it appears to me, have the
+same sum total of felicity. The Lawgiver of the Hebrews must have so
+believed when he made this world the sole scene of human existence,
+requiring no future life to restore the fancied unevenness of the
+balance. ‘If it were not for the assistance of artificial madness, false
+lights, refracted angles, varnish, and tinsel, there would be a mighty
+level in the enjoyments of mortal man,’ said one of the wisest of our
+modern humourists. The Anatomist of Melancholy somewhere remarks that
+the two greatest enjoyments are meeting the ‘object of one’s affections’
+and the intermission of severe sickness: thus explaining why those hug
+life who live in what the healthy deem tortures. I am convinced that my
+dull and half-fossilized Bakwiri are not a whit less happy or less
+miserable than any prince, millionaire, or philosopher in Europe.
+
+The chief Botani had shown himself most eager for his ‘hansel,’ and we
+persuaded him with difficulty to wait till 11 A.M. He then appeared in
+great hurry, armed with what the Chinese call the ‘divine utensil,’ his
+symbol of chieftainship, his throne—a stool. We presented him in due
+form with his ‘dash,’—one mirror, two knives, two cutlasses, two heads
+of tobacco, one cotton kerchief, one silk bandanna, and a 10-lb. keg of
+powder, the latter here worth as many shillings. Though accompanied by
+his confidant, whose eyes expressed infinite greed, he appeared
+satisfied, emitted sundry ‘meditative grunts of much content,’ and in
+sovereign self-satisfaction retired with his easily-won, ill-gotten
+gains to speechify about his grandeur as protector of all the whites,
+and to get tipsy.
+
+The consequence was a lively scene. Botani had been ‘fresh’ in the
+morning, and unpleasantly civil. In the _bonhomie_ of his early drink,
+not having the fear of Allah before his eyes, but being moved thereto
+and seduced by the instigation of the Shaytan, he had offered me—not _en
+tout bien et tout honneur_—his daughter, a small yellow child, about
+twelve years old, and seemed thunderstruck by my refusal. Continence,
+everywhere a rare and difficult virtue, is regarded by
+barbarians—despite what Dr. Livingstone asserts—rather with contempt
+than with respect. He had been treated like a great Mogul, and with a
+few glasses of rum he became a Great Mogul. About 2 P.M. he rushed out
+of his hut, with drawn dagger, and began the war-dance. After a long
+brawl he laid forcible hands upon the small interpreter ‘Poor Fellow,’
+and swore that he would seize him for Money’s debts. When in this state,
+and only then, these negroes, losing their sense of fear, become
+dangerous; at other times they are not more formidable than hyænas. M.
+Mann, though unarmed, pluckily enough pulled away the boy and drew him
+into a hut. Botani then rushed to the war-drum, and commenced a frantic
+_pas de charge_; the women—ominous sign!—slunk into the bush, and the
+men provided themselves with knives and muskets. Mr. Saker and I had
+taken up quarters for the day in a hut opposite that occupied by our
+companions. He began to harangue the people in Isubu, a language which
+the Bakwiri, who intermarry with the Bimbias, understand, and the rest
+of us had recourse to our revolvers. Presently a diversion in our favour
+arose. An old hunter, who had led the botanist up the mountain—we called
+him ‘Balmat’—came forth, armed like the rest, and addressed furious
+reproaches to his chief, who was running to and fro like a vicious
+madman, hoping that we might bolt, but fearing to begin the fray. After
+much of this display, Botani’s brother, _i.e._ confidant, addressed us
+civilly, and, after a long speech, split a plantain-leaf into three
+pieces, which he severally deposited in ‘Poor Fellow’s’ hand,—a kind of
+memorandum of how much ‘trust’ was owing to the village. Botani then
+pressed palms with all around, once, twice, and thrice, as men about to
+be hanged are wont to do; the strangers, who had flocked from the
+neighbouring settlements at the sound of the war-drum, departed, and the
+women reappeared. Our doughty chief then retired to sleep off his rum.
+When all was over, we pulled out our revolvers from our breeches-
+pockets, and made signs that next time their use should be made
+manifest.
+
+Liquor was the primal cause of this trouble; there were, however,
+others. The Judge, wild with delight at escaping Fernando Po, had been a
+little overintimate with the people, dancing with them, and making them
+laugh, under the erroneous impression that it would win their good
+graces. Familiarity breeds contempt in Africa as well as in Europe, and
+the fun ended in horseplay, chiefly beard-pulling. It was a misfortune,
+but inevitable, that we had a child for our interpreter. But it was a
+great mistake to encamp in a central village; we should have followed
+the East African plan, and either have bivouacked outside, or at any
+rate at the further end of the enclosure.
+
+A profound calm succeeded this tempest. We passed a pleasant night
+listening to the bush-dog calling for ‘fire ’tick,’[57] the murmurs of
+the wind, the growling of thunder down south, and the rustling of the
+tattered plantain-leaves, which sounded like raindrops. ‘Poor Fellow’
+spent the time in fear and trembling, whilst the Krumen armed themselves
+with matchets, and begged for candles, which we refused; they retired
+doggedly, and probably spent hours in calculating whether in case of
+desertion they could steal a boat and make some ship, where they would
+have been thankfully received.
+
+At 10·15 A.M., on the morning of the 21st December, Selim Aga returned
+with his small command from Victoria. Unhappily he was accompanied by
+the chief Myombi, who had behaved badly to M. Mann, and that chief was
+moreover ‘sprung.’ He began by demanding a glass of bilám—rum—and when
+refused he retired in dudgeon to some hut, where he apparently found it.
+The beery Botani was this morning as tame as one when liquor is dying
+within him; he was sitting upon the stool of repentance with a very
+hangdog look. Shortly after our breakfast a gathering of the clan took
+place upon the logs and stones outside the tent, at whose door he was
+squatting. Something evidently was in the wind. Presently ‘Poor Fellow’
+was sent for, and ordered to ask us our intentions on the morrow.
+
+Our reply was brief, but explicit. On the morrow we were to ascend the
+mountain with nine or ten guides, whom we offered to fee, and we
+expected in return for our ‘dashes’—which had not provoked any
+retaliation—kindness and civility.
+
+Botani, the dipsomaniac, was then put forward by Myombi, who sat
+ostentatiously in the background. After a long consultation, ‘Poor
+Fellow’ was directed to inform us that the price of ascending the
+mountain was 500 ‘big tings,’ _i.e._ 500_l._, otherwise that we might
+return whence we came. Yesterday Botani had shown the normal African
+dread of our leaving his village whilst we had cloth and food, and now
+he was urged to desperation by the villain Myombi. The demand provoked a
+shout of laughter, and we asked them if they could not take something
+less. In another half-hour they brought it down to 300_l._ But we had
+now seventeen Krumen besides our five selves—a force too strong for the
+Bakwiri: ‘ultimate sovereignty resides in the right arm of man;’ the
+_mollia tempora fundi_ had passed by; ‘defiance not defence’ became our
+motto. Despite the excited remonstrances of M. Mann, who, desiring to
+make a depôt at Mapanya, urged the _suaviter in modo_, which infallibly
+would have led to other and greater troubles, I resolved by Mr. Saker’s
+advice to try the _fortiter in re_. ‘Poor Fellow’ was told to say that
+we were tired of this ‘fool talk,’ that we would not pay another
+farthing, but advance by foul, if not by fair means. The reply was, that
+we should not have carriers nor guides. We rejoined that ‘it was nothing
+to Bacchus,’ that we would go alone; and pointing to Myombi, who
+frequents the market at Victoria, we made him understand that he should
+answer for this ‘palaver.’
+
+Whilst Mr. Saker spoke to the people, I was pleased to find how much
+could be done by one wholly ignorant of the language, with the
+assistance of signs learned amongst the North American aborigines.
+Gestures have been well defined as the hieroglyphics of speech. If fate
+ever lead me back to Europe, and lend me leisure, I hope to make a
+further study of the subject in surdo-mute establishments, and to
+produce a system which may prove generally useful, especially to those
+beginning a foreign tongue. A hundred words easily learned in a week,
+200 signs, and a little facility in sketching, would enable, I believe,
+a traveller to make his way through any country, even China, a few days
+after arrival.
+
+But as neither eloquence nor gestures appeared to produce the least
+effect upon the mule-like Bakwiri, we suited the deed to the word,
+arose, and prepared for departure. It was now a treat to see the avidity
+of the savages as they peered over our shoulders into bag and box.[58]
+Botani and Myombi had many confabs.; many too were the confabs. of their
+followers. The great men at last retired under a plantain clump at the
+side of the village, and, eyeing our proceedings with the superiority of
+sarcasm, declared that we should never find the way, and that if we did
+our valuables must be abandoned. Our loads were for twenty-five men, of
+whom we had only fourteen. Presently all departed, leaving only the
+women, children, and four-footed animals in the village. Their conduct
+was eminently childish—African. They knew, poor worshippers of St.
+Belly, that they gained, and greatly gained, by being in our good
+graces; but they wanted more—in fact all—and not being able to get all,
+they would take nothing. We debated upon the propriety of recovering our
+‘dashes;’ presently we resolved to leave them no ground for complaint.
+But before Europeans can travel about this country, the people must be
+taught to expect pay for service only, and be severely punished if they
+attempt their avanies.
+
+A little after midday we sent forward up the Hill of Difficulty our
+first detachment under Messrs. Calvo and Saker, ordering the Krumen to
+return after finding a camping-place in the bush. The rest of us waited
+below with the remnant, doing watch and ward, and straining our eyes for
+the reappearance of the carriers. The distance was little more than a
+mile.[59] Yet 2 P.M. passed—then three—then four—we were beginning to
+fear some accident, and to dread the delay of a day; Dante himself could
+not walk in the Cimmerian night of an African _selva oscura_—when at 5
+P.M. our truants heralded their approach with the Swiss-like Kru-cry
+‘Ohyo! Ohyo! Hyo! Hyo-o-o!’ and presently appeared with flourishing
+matchets, skipping down the hill-path. They had lost the road when
+ascending, and had had a weary time.
+
+Twenty minutes were consumed during the second loading; it reminded me
+of bygone hair-whitenings in East Africa. Only nine Krumen had returned,
+five having shirked duty. The strongest insisted upon loading most
+heavily the weakest: we reduced all the weight we could, still two loads
+lay hopelessly upon the ground. At that time, however, some of the
+humbler sort of villagers began to show, and amongst them ‘Balmat.’ The
+Grison professed inability to carry; he found for us, however, two
+youths, who, after the usual futilities—retiring to consult friends,
+demanding ‘ready-money’—and ‘cabbaging’ a finger’s length in the
+measurement—consented to accompany us, _moyennant_ two fathoms of satin
+stripe. One did his work manfully, and was rewarded with rum and extra
+pay; the other, who had prudently left his hire in his tent, resolutely
+refused after a few hundred yards to advance, nor did the muzzle of a
+gun thrust against his breast induce him to ‘budge an inch.’
+
+‘Man,’ says the Arab proverb, ‘eats you; the desert does not.’ With a
+light heart, although the sun was casting shadows of portentous length,
+we stepped out of Botany Bay; ascended the grassy slope; passed sundry
+outlying huts, the highest human habitations on this part of the
+mountain; and crossing a tall stile found ourselves once more in the
+bush. The road was a copy of that leading to Mapanya; steep pitches,
+ladders of root and rock, ridges, hollows, and scrambling places, girt
+by tall grasses, and with a slippery moss-grown surface, where biting
+ants attacked us, and held on even after decapitation. The plantain-
+clearings presently ceased, and we saw the succulent tree no more. The
+nettles, so troublesome on Fernando Po Mountain, began in real earnest.
+There was one vegetable wonder, a giant of the forest, raised high above
+the earth upon aërial roots, like the conical spindles of the red
+mangrove. Several trees, the African cork for instance, affect a similar
+formation; but this surpasses them all in stature and exaggeration. The
+road was like Jordan, ‘a hard one to travel.’ As darkness was imminent,
+we saw a real light after having often been mocked by the fire-flies; we
+heard shouts above us, and presently the rested came down to assist the
+weary. I arrived at 6 P.M. Selim Aga and M. Mann put in an appearance
+shortly afterwards. Only one bag of rice had been left behind, and old
+‘Balmat’ had promised to forward it on the morrow.
+
+The camp was pitched with a refreshing ignorance of encamping. Its site
+was a steep, narrow ridge, with a slope of 15° and a chasm on both
+sides. Some twenty-four human beings were huddled together on a few
+square feet. The fire was built to leeward, and, as the cool night set
+in, fuel became scarce. It was too late to re-form. My attention was
+confined to the water-breaker; we had but one; the inhospitable
+villagers had refused to fill our others; and the nearest, indeed the
+only known spring, could not be reached before the evening of the
+morrow, if then. During the evening I made a chair of the precious
+breaker, and at night a pillow, determined that on such a vital occasion
+as this there should be no pilfering. Krumen, inhabitants of a maritime
+country where water abounds, are uncommonly impatient of thirst; some of
+them actually preferred a drink of the element to a dram, but these had
+probably been making free with our rum. They did not, however, neglect
+to ‘play’ in their usual style. An individual dances and addresses, in
+black man’s English, French, and Spanish, the circle of squatters, who
+reply in roaring chorus ‘Bateo’—‘Give way!’—and ‘O-e! O-e!’ These people
+suffer much from nostalgia; a drum and a horn should always accompany
+them on expeditions. Often when they are unable to perform a heavy task,
+one of their number dancing before them and singing a home ditty has
+surprised them into renewed exertion. The snorting and snoring of the
+Krumen, a ripping and rag-tearing noise, which awoke with awful echoes
+the stillness of the night, combined with a cup of strong green tea,
+whose pleasant intoxication is as exciting as that of ague and fever,
+caused me a sleepless night that told heavily upon the next day’s hard
+march.
+
+Before dawn on the 22nd December we arose and addressed ourselves to our
+tasks. The Krumen received a ration of pork and biscuit and a mouthful
+of water each; they were unable to boil their rice, without which they
+rarely do a good day’s work. Hands being short, we determined to place
+some loads in deposit. The first detachment set out at 7·15 A.M., and
+soon returned to fetch the packs still lying in camp. After a quarter of
+an hour’s walk we deposited them in a hollow, marked by two dwarf
+parallel palisades of sticks with a heap of stones between, showing that
+large game had been killed there, a practice also common amongst the
+Fernandian Bube. We left behind two breakers, four heavy bags of rice, a
+case of liquor and coffee, and sundry tin specimen-boxes containing
+sundries. Such a _câche_ would not have baffled a Sioux for five
+minutes; here, however, we found it answer, and when safely encamped on
+the mountain we recovered all by sending down detachments of Krumen.
+
+The march began at 8 A.M., up a rugged rise, wooded, with forest rather
+than with bush, and presently we debouched upon the fern region. It was
+fern, fern, everywhere. The valleys were filled with cyatheas, tree-
+ferns like palms, from ten to thirty feet high, surpassingly graceful
+and beautiful, especially when their delicate tracery was viewed from
+above, picked out by the golden rays of the sun. Others were little
+epiphytes (Trichomanes and _Dicksonia Selinifolia_) springing like moss
+upon the stems—miniature things hardly a foot long. There were beds of
+ferns resembling the common English variety, and others running creeper-
+like up the trunks, contrasting with the broad-leaved orchids based upon
+the boughs. Never has ‘rambler in search of ferns’ seen a more beautiful
+fernery, set off as it was by the grand tropical growth around. My
+companions were less struck; they had familiarized themselves with the
+spectacle at Fernando Po; moreover, on Camaroons Mountain the best sites
+are occupied by clearings and plantations, which is not the case with
+the Sister Peak. At this season, however, the asparagus of the Himalayas
+was too old for eating. The view was charming—
+
+
+  ‘Summer winds about us blowing
+
+   Made a murmur in the land’—
+
+
+but the path was vile, wet and muddy. After a good hour’s march we
+passed under an archway formed by cross trees, supported by others still
+standing. It was at once called Fern Gate. And beyond it we fell into a
+new country.
+
+The bush and forest suddenly disappeared, as though by the work of
+woodmen, and, O joy! we emerged from the region of the clammy, dewy
+grasses that imprisoned us. The eye revelled over a broad field of
+lovely green, a dense mass of small moss and thick fern of a single
+species, _T. nephrolapis_, so called from its fructification. The base
+was a bed of old and degraded lava, much more modern, however, than any
+in Madeira, or even in the valley of Orotava. We were destined to trace
+this stream to its source, and it was palpably the oldest formation of
+the kind. We called it Lava Bed No. 1. The direction is from north to
+south, gradually bending at the end towards the E.S.E.; in fact, nearly
+fronting the north-east wind, which appears to be that prevalent upon
+the mountain. I conjectured that by following this bearing we could
+hardly fail to make the main source by the nearest line, and was not
+disappointed by my rude analogy. The breadth where we struck the outflow
+might be half a mile; below that point, however, the discharge, finding
+scantier slope, thinned out, spread, and possibly ceased to flow; at
+least we guessed so, from its ending in a forest which conceals from
+sight the sea, to which it extends. It is girt on both sides by a dense
+belt of trees, springing from a stiff yellow clay, the portions of the
+slope which the lava did not overflow. A B. P. observation gave us an
+altitude of 4535 feet, about 1000 feet above Snowdon and the Reeks of
+Kerry, and 800 feet higher than Vesuvius.
+
+A hunter’s path was easily found; but careful stepping was required. Off
+the ‘spoor’ it was easy to sink up to the thighs. At 8·45 A.M. we had
+crossed the bed from S.S.E. to N.N.W., and we sat down under the farther
+skirting of wood. There we saw for the first time a blackberry, common
+at Fernando Po. This _Rubus apetalus_ is enumerated among the plants
+common to Abyssinia, the Mauritius, Bourbon, and Madagascar. Its fruit
+remarkably resembled the common English hedge growth.[60] Salvia scented
+the air; and the green surface was thinly spangled with blossoms; two
+species of fair white gnaphalium, and a shrub with scarlet brackets,
+unknown to our ‘botaniker.’ There was also heath, but rather of Madeiran
+than of Scottish dimensions; an ericanella, 15 feet high, thin and
+rugged as the tamarisk of Sindh. The lava, where very old, was thinly
+clad with a cryptogam, which we afterwards found extending to the very
+base of the grand peak.
+
+The bees already began to make themselves felt. They are as abundant as
+in the upper regions of Fernando Po. Already, at Mapanya, we had seen in
+the hands of the villagers a dark and dirty comb: the savages ignore
+hives, even to the extent of the East African log. In the upper regions,
+where clover abounds, like the Retama (_C. nubigenes_) of Tenerife, to
+which the hives are yearly removed, the honey is excellent. The animals
+build in hollow trees, producing, after four days’ labour it is said, a
+delicious white honey, which is easily taken from them, even in the
+daytime. Our camp was infested by them: they seek moisture, and
+disappear in swarms before cold or wind, mist or night. The busy insect
+appears here, as at Fernando Po, unusually amiable, sociable, and
+stupid; and its rare stings were little more painful than those of the
+horse-fly. It is different in the plains of Africa. Mungo Park, in his
+last expedition, twice saw his caravan dispersed by swarms, and seven
+beasts killed. In the Eastern Regions I lost in one day three asses, and
+witnessed the capture of a village, by bees.
+
+After a little food, of biscuit and ‘Europe mutton,’ the Band of Hope
+resumed its march at 9·50 A.M., under a sun becoming painfully hot. The
+fern presently waxed rare, and the surface became a mass of detached
+boulders, between whose treacherous sides leg and ankle easily came to
+grief, and lava-blocks thinly sprinkled with lichens, and dry grass. The
+path zigzagged across the old fire-stream, which was disposed in
+prismatic striated dykes, some a quarter of a mile, others a few yards,
+long, running parallel to the course; bluff towards the north, and
+tailing off southward. Many of these long, narrow axial ridges were
+sharp tipped, hardly a foot broad; and the highest might be 15 feet
+above the general level of the matrix. The appearance of these
+longitudinal markings suggested unequal cooling of the molten matter.
+The outer coating, exposed to the air, would naturally lose caloric,
+whilst the melted matter gravitates down the pipe or tunnel below. The
+roughness and angularity must also be the work of water and wearing
+down, the smoothing and rounding off of ice action being wholly wanting.
+Expecting to find at the edge of the stream a smoother path, made by the
+washings of the clay banks, I was disappointed: in that direction it was
+almost impassable. As we advanced we exchanged the miry boulders for
+bare and naked rock, which hardly showed the hunter’s trail; and the
+labour was greatly increased by repeatedly ascending and descending the
+ridges. The direction began towards the N.W., gradually winding to N.E.
+The wind was easterly; and as the great puffy clouds, half nimbus, half
+fog, and apparently pregnant with rain, sailed up from the S.W., where
+the horizon was obscured by inky cumulus, only the ragged ends passed
+over our heads, diffusing brief coolness, and shedding the priceless
+fluid in stingy drops, which one might have counted. Mr. Saker, who had
+taken charge of the water-breaker, prudently refused all applications.
+The Krumen, whose feet were scorched by the midday sun, began to lag
+behind: they had been provided with ammunition-boots, but, not having
+become by habit solidungulate, they could not use them without risking
+broken legs. Selim Aga remained to bring up the rear; and the party in
+advance now consisted of four Europeans and two bearers. There was no
+evidence of animals at this time, save man. A loud clamour in the nearer
+woods, followed by what seemed to be the tramping of men, caused me to
+draw my revolver and to make ready. After yesterday’s scene we certainly
+should have had an attack in East Africa. My companion’s posed look told
+me that it was a false alarm. It proved to be the chattering of monkeys,
+and their retreat among the tree-branches. I presently mistook some gaps
+in the vegetation for snow; and Mr. Saker once complained of a complete
+deafness. The fiery reflected heat was robbing us of our senses. Perhaps
+it was aided by the rarefied air. We were not, however, astonished
+throughout the exploration that we suffered so little from the
+inconvenience of which most travellers complain on Mont Blanc and the
+Rocky Mountains. Some would explain our immunity from mountain-sickness,
+or ‘puna,’ upon the Great Peak, only by the constant blowing of the
+violent east wind, which supplied our lungs with the requisite quantity
+of oxygen as fast as they could consume it.[61] I believe, however, the
+disease to be, like sea-sickness, merely the effect of disordered liver
+or stomach, often aggravated by stimulants, and by sudden and violent
+exertion.
+
+Gradually we had edged towards the eastern side of the lava river, where
+in the high thick vegetation of the banks large black mossy stones
+appeared. Persuaded by the presence of a small bird—like the monkeys,
+they require drink—that the element must be near, I sent two Krumen to
+scrape the ground. It was wet immediately below the surface; and during
+the rains there must be a full gutter on each side of the lava-bed. The
+slope, however, is steep, and the drainage rapid. ‘No find water?’ we
+cried: the answer was, ‘Yes, sa!’—‘Yes,’ in Kruman’s English, being an
+affirmative confirming your negative, when the Englishman would say
+‘No.’ Although our botanist had despaired of finding aught potable in
+the absence of succulent plants, Selim Aga, wiser by experience,
+squeezed from the moss half a gallon of dew, sufficient to boil water
+for the boys during the night.
+
+After midday the march became, in the glaring, scorching, solar rays, a
+mere stumbling; we halted at least as much as we walked, and the
+alpenstock had a heavy burden to bear. In vain we shouted to the Krumen
+behind; not a sound was heard. The party was ‘hopelessly disintegrated.’
+The seething heat seemed to wax more and more terrible; shoes showed
+signs of giving in,[62] and so did the wearers. At 2 P.M. we halted for
+a little refreshment—a crust of bread and a cup of water—what
+quintessence of nectar it was! We then resumed our way, which became
+even more rugged and precipitous as we neared the crater: it almost irks
+me to write about it. A mural precipice seemed ever to stand before us,
+and the figures in the van regularly disappeared as they topped the
+heights. The last third is rather a field than a bed; it was probably
+the latest gush, that had not power to flow on, but remained to cool and
+be weathered and degraded in jagged blocks, all realism and ugliness.
+
+The sleepless night had told upon me. I found it impossible to keep my
+eyes open; something feverish and fiery ran through my veins. A sound
+sleep upon a lava-block till 4 P.M. relieved this sensation. On awaking,
+the prospect was not pleasant; not a soul was in sight. I had lost the
+trail, and nothing appeared around me but a tumbled sea of lava rising
+in front like a mountain wave. A bivouac seemed imminent. There were
+green spots under natural dry walls, where the gathering of water had
+produced a scanty growth of herbage. But without fire such a night would
+have ended in a very disagreeable morrow, which might have been called
+by the ‘cold name of accident.’
+
+Fortunately, the surgeon of H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound’ had given me a ‘snake
+mixture,’ labelled ‘forty drops to be taken in water.’ Even without the
+element they enabled me to pass over the tangled surface of the stone-
+billows forming the ominous frontal wave of the stream, and to surmount
+the final overfall—a high abrupt transverse sea surging in massive
+rollers, and shutting out the view beyond. Looking from above, not
+usually a good _point de vue_ in hill countries, I could see the torrent
+of once fiery stone meandering down the hill between its banks of green,
+with here and there a step or ridge, transverse features in the
+longitudinal arrangement, as if the viscid mass had gathered at, before
+overflowing, some obstacle of ground. Of such places we counted in the
+ascent six. Beyond the seventh and last consecutive wrinkling of the
+lava deluge, distant about half a mile, and at the foot of a dwarf bowl,
+which, from its peculiar colour, we presently named Black Crater, stood
+my friends. They called to me—the voice travels far in these
+regions—that water was still distant an hour’s march, and they were
+requested to _passer en avant_. Presently M. Mann, accompanied by a
+Kruman bearing a breaker, disappeared behind the hills, and Mr. Saker
+disposed himself upon the ground. Their desire to advance under such
+circumstances appeared simple madness. They might have reached the
+water, but they would have left behind them Krumen and rations, tent and
+bedding, and slept in a wood more than 7000 feet above sea-level. M.
+Mann, acclimatized, and now accustomed to ascending West African
+mountains, had outwalked the whole party. He subsequently suffered
+severely for this evidence of superior vigour.
+
+Beyond the last horrid lava-ridge of broken blocks, bristling up in all
+directions, the aspect of the land suddenly changes. Boulders and striæ
+disappear; the surface is a bed of scoriæ comminuted by the fierce
+action of the elements, and overgrown with moss and tussocks of dwarf
+grass, which showed signs of a late firing. After the continuous ascent
+since 8 A.M. a stretch over the smooth hollow was refreshing. I sketched
+on the way the Black Crater, whose outfall had caused us so much
+trouble. It is a truncated cone of considerable antiquity, not unlike
+the Montañeta do Frayle, near the town of Orotava, opening towards the
+south where the wall was broken. The altitude of the western or highest
+lip is 200 feet, or 356 along the slope. The circumference of the base
+is 600 yards, and the diametér of the bowl about 100. The outer surface
+is fine cinder, here bare, there dotted with tufts of grass and wilted
+shrubs; from a distance it looks exceptionally dark, from which
+circumstance it obtained a name. The interior contains a sparse green
+growth, and the internal northern wall shows scaurs of reddish rock. In
+places the lava appeared magnetic. Mr. Saker, who carried his ship’s
+compass in hand, remarked that on one occasion, when placed between the
+rocks, the north pole of the needle pointed to the south, and I noticed,
+besides a decided dip to the north, curious deflections in my own
+pocket-instrument. Our ascent of the lava had lasted from 10 A.M. to
+4·30 P.M., 6 h. 30 m., of which half were spent in rest, and the
+distance little exceeded two miles,[63] which, however, we set down as,
+at the lowest estimate, five. The road was infamous, and worse for
+descent than for ascent; yet nothing could be easier than to make a
+highway as practicable as any street in Madeira. All the material is
+there, and a little zigzagging would render the slope easy. The height
+of our camp was found to be some 7000 feet, about that of Ootacamund, in
+the Neilgherry Hills.
+
+We had pitched, however, again in a vile place, a dwarf plateau, brown
+and mossy, a few yards broad, and S.W. of Black Crater. Between the
+latter and a grassy neighbour on our north was a narrow gorge, that
+acted as conductor to the fierce north-east wind. The place was open to
+the west, where lightning flashed, and was exposed to all ‘skyey
+influences.’ By slow degrees the wearied Krumen began to drop in,
+bringing tent, bedding, and cooking-gear. Selim Aga, however, remained
+in charge of five lag-behinds, who had been too heavily loaded.[64]
+During twilight—it is longer here than in the plains, and the sun seems
+to set (a common mountain phenomenon) at a point 20° higher than one
+expects—M. Mann returned with a full breaker, which restored jollity to
+the camp. We ate the traveller’s supper, but we did not sleep the
+traveller’s sleep. At 5·45 P.M. the thermometer fell to 60° (Fah.),
+ruddying nose and hand. At 6·15 P.M. it showed 50°, and during the night
+it sank to 40°,—a severe trial to the constitution after 76° to 78° in
+the lowlands. It was a hard, dry, piercing cold, that seemed to mock at
+clothing. The bitter north-east gusts coursing restlessly down the
+‘wind-loved’ gully caused cramps and shivering; the stony ground, sharp
+and sloping, made hip-bones ache. The fires were of course allowed to
+die out during the smaller hours, and the dew filtered into the
+waterproofs. There were points, however, in favour of the place; the air
+was pure, the water was deliciously cool, and the sand-flies, no longer
+measling our hands and faces, had remained below.
+
+A lovely morning, the ‘Smile of God,’ when the wondrous disc of light
+
+
+  ‘Retinged the dark and livid air with bloom,’
+
+
+made ample amends for the deficiencies of the night. Before us, bearing
+S.W. ½ W., beyond a grassy hollow, about one mile broad, sinking with
+graceful slope into the lower forest, and then rising nearly to our
+level, the awful form of Little Camaroons rose to a point, without rival
+or neighbour. From this distance we could distinguish the platform which
+divides its height. The atmosphere around us was sweet and pure; we felt
+that we were breathing a purer æther, a diviner air. As the upper limb
+of the red light of day, apparently so large, flashed leaping up over
+the cinder-coloured head of Black Crater, it painted with every variety
+of its own hue, pink and red, orange and yellow, the pure fleecy clouds,
+whose huge volumes, at first white as cotton, and infinitely subdivided,
+soared up from the west. Most comfortable was their warmth as the rays
+bathed us. At 6 A.M. the thermometer had shown 48°, which is felt
+severely in these elevated tropical regions. Presently the globular
+balls of ‘woolpack’ began to surge up from the base of the blue giant in
+front of us, and twist like the smoke of a conflagration puffed up from
+the south-west, till all became broad plains of barren cloud. Around,
+everything was calm, serene, heavenly, except where three white men were
+sitting, journal in hand, and the shuddering Kruboys were bringing fuel
+from the lately charred trees. Again we sent forward the empty breaker
+to the spring, and received it full at 7·20 A.M.
+
+[Illustration: LITTLE CAMAROONS, FROM BLACK CRATER.
+
+Page 128.]
+
+Whilst awaiting the estrays, we walked over the grassy hollow, and
+mentally surveyed the future Sanitarium. This would be the best locality
+for the highest part of the establishment. As has been seen, the road
+could easily be made practicable for mules and asses. The place itself
+is well sheltered from the wind, water is not distant, and timber begins
+a few yards below it. Comfortable quarters would of course be necessary
+during the raw and cold wet season that lasts from 1st May to the
+beginning of November: as will be presently seen the rains cannot be
+heavy, and I doubt not, indeed, that they are lighter than those of the
+Himalayas and Neilgherry Hills. From this height to nearly the base of
+the summit-cone all is clear and grassy, without gashes or ravines,
+except in the lava-beds, and a few hill-paths, as in the Neilgherry
+Hills, would make riding easy. The Camaroons Mountain has thus a grand
+advantage over the Fernando Po Peak, whose thick and tangled vegetation
+extends almost to the topmost crater. Clover also growing wild here, as
+at Fernando Po, where there are two species, cattle might be bred in
+abundance; and I have no doubt that most European vegetables, cereals,
+and fruits—apples, for instance, which grow 3000 feet above sea-level in
+San Thomé—could be made to flourish. The land is rich with its annual
+dressing of fallen leaves or decayed grass, and where the soil is a foot
+deep it is of the most fertile description.
+
+As Selim Aga did not appear at 2 P.M., we left water and a Kruman guide,
+and proceeded towards our proposed camp. The path was a mere rut; the
+walk was pretty round the grassy shoulders and folds of various hills:
+above all was grass and rocks, below us a dense dark wood. We passed on
+our right a high broken crater, whose double effusion of lava from the
+N.N.E. to the S.S.W. converging at the base, enclosed a clump of emerald
+trees. In many places patches of a livelier green showed where water
+sinks during the rains. A few birds were seen, a kite sailing high in
+the air, and two butterflies, one white, the other yellow—it is
+astonishing the power of flight, in height as well as distance, which
+these frail creatures seem to possess. There was unmistakeable ‘sign’ of
+hyænas, which must be numerous. And here we saw for the first time the
+earths and hills of a rat (_Euryotis irrorata_, sp. nov.[65]), which
+cover the upper heights almost to the summit of the Great Cone. These
+animals dig long galleries, which appear to have two entrances. They
+were afterwards easily caught with the usual ingenious trap of the
+Krumen—like the Fernandians they show judgment in choosing the best
+positions—a flexible branch, bent to the ground by a cord with a
+terminal noose, well covered by leaves, and a trigger which is started
+by the tread when the animal steps inside to eat the grass or grain
+within the noose. The bodies are sometimes found suspended in the air
+and clenched so tightly round the middle that extravasated blood appears
+beneath the skin when stripped.
+
+After forty-five minutes the path plunged into a wooded dell, a glade
+2000 feet long, not unlike those about the Buenos Ayres ridge at
+Fernando Po, where we enjoyed cool shade, and an air perfumed by a
+garden of blue labiates and clematites hanging from lofty trees at the
+extreme end of large vegetation. Another quarter of an hour brought us,
+after a total march of 1⅔ miles,[66] to ‘Mann’s Spring,’ and we felt
+grateful for the happy discovery: without this supply all our water must
+have been carried from below. Doubtless there are many similar
+formations, but the difficulty would be to find them. It is a pure cool
+runnel issuing from peaty earth at the foot of a small rock, and sinking
+into the dark brown humus beyond. It is embowered in flowering shrubs
+and nettles, with foliage narrower than the English species, that will
+supply us with a Scottish spinach.
+
+A few yards of ascent beyond the water led to our camp, where the Krumen
+had cleared a slope for us, and had built for themselves leafy
+tabernacles. Shortly after our arrival we heard shouts and shots, and
+had the satisfaction of receiving Selim and his five ‘slow coaches’ safe
+and sound. The evening sped pleasantly at this altitude, about 7300 feet
+above the sea, and the night was comfortable. I had expected a heavy
+dew, and to my surprise a newspaper left out in the air showed in the
+morning no traces of damp. The atmosphere was cold, clear, and still,
+except after midnight, when furious gusts from the N., the N.E., and the
+N.W. swept round the cone (we called it Earthwork Crater), at whose base
+we were encamped, and after a turmoil of five minutes overhead,
+departed, leaving all as still as the grave.
+
+
+[Footnote 38: It produces two crops per annum, each of twelve bunches,
+and every bunch fifteen nuts—a total of three hundred and sixty: so in
+India it is said the cocoa produces one nut a day. To show the value of
+the tree, each nut being worth five cents, it produces 18 dolls. = 3_l._
+6_s._ per annum.]
+
+[Footnote 39: It extends about 700 feet above sea-level, and has many
+uses, being employed especially in building.]
+
+[Footnote 40: Letter from M. Mann, in ‘Journal of the Proceedings of the
+Linnæan Society,’ above alluded to.
+
+The brief notices of the flora of this interesting region are, I repeat,
+either borrowed from the paper above cited or collected in conversation
+with M. Mann. The extremely interesting nature of the subject must be my
+excuse for introducing so many ‘crackjaw names.’]
+
+[Footnote 41: It is to be hoped, however, that future colonists will
+not, after a usual fashion, alter the place by wanton felling and
+burning from a forest dense to the other extreme—a bare and barren
+waste.]
+
+[Footnote 42: So San Thomé, where servitude will expire after twelve
+years, expects nothing but ruination.]
+
+[Footnote 43: It is a local habit to plunge the seed into boiling water.
+I bought a sack when ignorant of the practice, and was astonished to
+find it rotting in the ground. Curious to say, it is not to be had from
+the seedsmen in London.]
+
+[Footnote 44: At present the plantain is almost as bad as the potato,
+formerly of so many uses; it supplies the people with food and drink,
+wine and water, cloth, thatch, rope, fuel, fodder, and perfume; and it
+can supply them with writing materials. I republish from the ‘Cavalla
+Messenger,’ the Missionary paper printed at Cape Palmas, an excellent
+description of plantain-planting:—
+
+‘MR. EDITOR,—I take the liberty, in the following communication, to call
+the attention of your readers to the growth of the plantain for its
+fibre.
+
+‘In the first place I would remark that it is easily cultivated. In
+preparing the ground for a crop in this country, we meet with one grand
+difficulty—the want of the plough and team. Yet this is less felt than
+in many parts of the world. The constant fall of rain in the growing
+seasons softens the ground, and conveys to the roots of plants the
+soluble parts of the decaying vegetable and mineral matter composing the
+soil as perfectly and thoroughly as if ploughed and otherwise cultivated
+by a team. But in the growth of the plantain we are less dependent on
+plough and oxen for success than in the management of most other crops.
+This is a fact very strongly recommending it to the attention of the
+farmer.
+
+‘To put out a field of plantains the ground should be prepared much as
+it is for cassada-roots. The ground then should be laid out in rows
+about twelve or eighteen feet apart each way.
+
+‘At the point crossed by these rows the soil should be thoroughly dug
+up, and a healthy root set in the centre. The plant usually does best
+when laid down so as to sprout from the side. This will give from three
+to four hundred plants to the acre.
+
+‘For the first year or two, cassada, cotton, pepper, ginger, corn,
+arrowroot, sugar-cane, or some other crop, should be grown with it.
+
+‘The third year will give seven suckers to each plant, which will make
+2400 to 2800 stalks, with as many bunches of delicious, healthy,
+nutritious fruit. This gathered when fully ripe may be easily preserved
+for food or export. In England it takes the place of dried apple, and
+commands a price that will richly pay the farmer all the labour of
+cultivation and curing for market.
+
+‘The process of drying is simple. The ripe fruit is laid in the hot sun
+on mats elevated from the ground. After it becomes wilted it is taken
+from the skin and replaced upon the mats till dry, when it is coated
+with sugar, like figs. This process might be shortened by kiln-drying.
+
+‘The fruit when full grown, before the process of ripening commences, is
+very rich in starch, and when dried and ground makes an excellent meal.
+To make plantain-meal the plantain must be gathered when full grown. The
+skins must be removed with a bamboo-knife, so as not to discolour the
+fruit. Then cut in thin slices and dry in the sun, or on a kiln, which
+is better. When brittle grind into meal.
+
+‘The fact that the fruit for home consumption or the foreign market will
+richly pay for cultivation is an item of importance. For this purpose is
+the plantain chiefly raised. The stalk is by many regarded valueless.
+Yet it is by the addition of a little labour worth 3_d._ a stalk.
+
+‘An acre of well-matured thrifty plants will produce 6000 lbs. of fibre,
+at a cost in labour of 3_l._ per ton; and with an additional cost of
+7_l._ per ton may be placed in an English market.
+
+‘Plantain-fibre, after patient, varied, and repeated experiment, has
+been proved to be equal to hemp for all the purposes of cordage, and now
+commands the same price as good hemp, say from 30_l._ to 35_l._ per ton,
+giving a clear profit to the grower of more than 20_l._ the ton.
+
+‘To convert the stalk into fibre, it is cut into lengths of three feet
+long and quartered. This should be done as quick as may be, so as not to
+black the fibre with the iron instrument used in cutting.
+
+‘Furnished with a mill like a horizontal sugar-mill, having wood rollers
+four feet long and one foot in diameter, turned by horse-power, the
+quartered stalks are passed between the rollers longitudinally so as not
+to stain the fibre. Then the crushed stalks are washed thoroughly (which
+process separates the fibre from the pulpy matter of the stalks), and
+the fibre is hung on poles under a shade to dry. The sun discolours it.
+
+‘When dry, it is combed or hackled, as flax or hemp, when it is fit for
+the market.
+
+‘The tow or waste from the combing is beaten and prepared as half-stuff
+for paper at a cost of about 8_l._ per ton, and is worth as much as
+linen rags for paper, say from 16_l._ to 20_l._ per ton.’]
+
+[Footnote 45: In Fernandian ‘Bube’ means a man, and ‘E Bube!’ is an
+address as favourite as the Spanish Hombre. Hence strangers undeservedly
+called the race ‘Booby.’]
+
+[Footnote 46: The Dictionary of the Isubu language informs us that these
+charms, of which there are many with distinct names, are worn ‘to keep
+off evil spirits.’ As I have repeatedly explained, they are worn to keep
+them in, and they hinder them from wandering about doing harm, as the
+seal of Suleyman prevented the Jinn from leaving his prison-pit.]
+
+[Footnote 47: So Garcie du Jardin says that certain American Indians
+placed snuff and pills of lime ‘_entre la lèvre de dessous et les
+dents_;’ in fact, where it most excites the salivary glands. Like the
+coffee-balls eaten by the Gallas of South Abyssinia, it prevents thirst
+and fatigue. These people have none of the succedanea for tobacco used
+by different wild races—potato-leaves, datura, solanum, hyoscyamus,
+belladonna, &c.]
+
+[Footnote 48: More correctly 23,420 feet: the distances were taped on my
+return. In Appendix VI. I have given the elements of our observations
+for each altitude, which were calculated by Mr. George, of the Royal
+Geographical Society.]
+
+[Footnote 49: This must not be confounded with Abo at the head of the
+Nigerian Delta. It is described as a congeries of townlets, like
+Abeokuta, under a powerful king, containing some 25,000 inhabitants, and
+having a radius of 4 miles: its direct distance from this point might be
+45 miles. It is most easily reached by the ‘Yabiang’ water, a western
+influent of the Madiba ma Dualla or Camaroons Creek, and from the
+highest factory in the river it is distant 29 miles, including 4 of
+walking. In 1841 Captain Allen attempted to visit it, but failed. In
+1849 Messrs. Saker and Pinnock succeeded; they were robbed, however, by
+the Yabiangs, at the instance of the Camaroons people, and escaped only
+with their lives.]
+
+[Footnote 50: There is another settlement of the same name behind Mount
+Henry. I was unable to discover the exact meanings of this and other
+terms, but conjectured from analogy with other wild parts of Africa that
+they are the names of districts, not of chiefs, tribes, or villages.]
+
+[Footnote 51: The head of tobacco, here worth about 6_d._, contains from
+ten to twelve leaves.]
+
+[Footnote 52: The Galium aparine, a small rubiaceous plant, will vex us
+in high altitudes.]
+
+[Footnote 53: ‘Little things’ here means matchets and mirrors, kerchiefs
+and blue baft, rum and tobacco. The fathom of cloth is also equal to
+1_s._ At Fernando Po the musket costs 15_s._]
+
+[Footnote 54: 40,720 feet along the very winding path.]
+
+[Footnote 55: The shape was unknown to me; I found it, however, figured
+and described in the Muata Cazmbe of Captain Gamitto.]
+
+[Footnote 56: This hoop shows the connection of the Fernandian ‘Bube’
+with the coast tribes opposite. Other races, like the Krumen, ignore
+such means of ascent, and fell the tree.]
+
+[Footnote 57: The bush-dog is I believe a small hyæna. The Krumen have a
+tradition that he and the house-dog are brothers. The latter preferred
+to the forest the society of man and the comforts of the hut, whilst the
+former, ever wandering over the hills, calls plaintively upon his
+relation to supply him with fire.]
+
+[Footnote 58: Boxes are always bad, but botanists cannot do without
+them. M. Mann had seven tin cases, 20 inches long by 17 broad and 15
+deep—about one-third less would have been better—and they were very
+heavy, containing wire-frames for India, packing-paper, and stout brown
+paper for drying specimens.]
+
+[Footnote 59: Measured by tape along the road 6200 feet.]
+
+[Footnote 60: When returning I observed that all the fruit had
+disappeared.]
+
+[Footnote 61: According to Dr. James Hunt (‘Acclimatization of Man’) the
+European cannot live at a great elevation for any length of time in the
+Northern hemisphere; the natives of the Southern can. The highest
+inhabited spot in Europe is the Théodule Pass, between Wallis and
+Piedmont: it is temporary, and only 10,000 feet high; whereas Peruvians
+thrive permanently at 7000 to 12,000 feet of altitude. ‘This difference
+between the North and South hemispheres is caused perhaps by the
+difference in attraction at the North pole. In the Northern hemisphere
+the ascent of a high mountain causes a rush of blood to the head, and in
+the Southern there is an attraction of blood to the feet: hence the
+cause of the sickness felt on ascending a mountain in that hemisphere.’]
+
+[Footnote 62: For this lava-walking the boots should have wooden soles.
+Mr. Mann completely destroyed two pair in as many days. For grass-
+walking on the upper heights, the Pyrenean spartelle, or the Spanish
+soldiers’ alpargetas, would be best.]
+
+[Footnote 63: Measured it proved 11,570 feet. The total distance from
+Mapanya to the Black Crater was 20,080 feet, under 4 miles, and from
+Black Crater to Victoria 60,800 feet, under 10 miles.]
+
+[Footnote 64: In such places 30 lbs. should be the maximum for fast
+walking, whereas many of the men carried 40 lbs.]
+
+[Footnote 65: A specimen of it was sent to the British Museum, and
+described by Dr. Gray, Appendix IV.]
+
+[Footnote 66: 9594 feet.]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+                      FIRST ASCENT OF PICO GRANDE.
+
+
+Before dawn on the next day, which was ‘Noche Buena,’ we were up and
+anxious to be doing; we had agreed to visit the cone, which had the
+temporary honour of being held the highest of Camaroons. Setting out at
+6 A.M., after a scanty breakfast—what execrable stuff that essence of
+coffee is!—we retraced our steps through the wooded gorge, and passed
+out of the sweet forest into the open, where grass occupied the surface
+between bits of degraded lava. The ascent began eastward, up a black
+slope garnished with thin tussocks and rat-holes; here we first saw the
+beautifully green leaves of the Hypericum, whose colour would be a
+fortune to a dyer, and its rich blossoms, which at a distance resemble
+yellow dog-roses.[67] The appearance of the hills and craters all
+changed so much that M. Mann, who already showed signs of indisposition,
+asked his Kruboys ‘where dem glass ting (_i.e._ the thermometers) lib?’
+and a ‘no sabby’ was the only reply. We saw kites, a few violets, and
+large footprints, apparently of kudu, dating from the last rains: during
+the ‘dries’ the beasts are driven by thirst into the lower forests. But
+one deer was seen in this region; huntsmen are common; there are remains
+of huts near our camp, and about three quarters of a mile to the north-
+west are caverns where freshly plucked leaves show the presence of man.
+We crossed sundry Devil’s Backbones, and a path spanning the mountains
+from north-east to west. From the depth to which the path was worn, it
+was probably a regular line of communication for the people.
+
+At 8 A.M. we reached the foot of a tall sugarloaf, conspicuous in this
+direction—not from the north—by the symmetry of its conformation,
+perfect amongst the tossed and truncated forms around. After halting for
+a few minutes in a tree-grown cavity at the base, where water sinks, and
+where we found a souvenir in the ‘forget-me-not’—the myosotis, which the
+French prettily call _plus je te vois, plus je t’aime_,—and a fine
+leucothoë, we began the ascent with long elbows to the north-east and
+the north-west. On the occidental slope, defended from the wind, were a
+few wilted inclined trees, so aligned that they presented a sharp edge
+to the gales. The surface was the usual dark vegetable mould, which
+varies from a few inches to a foot in thickness, bearing grass already
+withered to a reddish yellow. Two spots showed curious charrings,
+apparently natural, and overgrown with slippery lichens, amongst which
+were found some deserted birds’ nests. The whole aspect was rather that
+of St. Isabel Peak on Fernando Po than anything on the Camaroons.
+
+M. Mann, despite his sufferings, preceded us. Mr. Saker, the Judge, and
+I formed line and ascended together. Thick mists began to veil the
+mighty form of Little Camaroons. We stood now about mid-way between it
+and the summit,[68] and we hurried on, breathing quickly in the morning
+air, lest even at this early hour the Mongo might begin to ‘smoke his
+pipe.’ The furious north-easter almost took away our breath, and gave
+our hands a wintry look. After an hour, frequent halts included, we
+passed rapidly along a narrow chine winding with gentle ascent over
+ground flattening out to the summit; looked northwards, and stood
+enchanted with the grandeur and the novelty of the view.
+
+A wondrous confusion reigned around; a volcanic perspective of _Pays
+brûlé_ which forced back thought through myriads of years, to the time
+when all was a desolating flood and a sheet of ‘whirling, roaring,
+bursting, blasting, thundering flames.’ One glance at the immediate van-
+ground, a long grassy shelf, ribbed with black, and further still where
+an immense circle of volumed white cloud, iridized by the sun, formed a
+setting of opal for the tumbled mass of ‘parasitic’ cones; and on the
+left hand, vast spillings of black lava, a burned ridge, streaked and
+bordered by the liveliest green. Then every eye turned northwards, where
+clear and distinct,—too near Heaven it appeared for any fleck of
+mist,—calm in the hurlyburly around, and dwarfing with its giant
+proportions all the subject mountains, rose in dark blue profile the
+grand Presence of the Peak.
+
+When our nerves had recovered their tranquil tone, we proceeded to use
+glasses. Even the naked eye could see that the vertex of the cone had,
+like Etna, two distinct summits, which at this distance presented a
+considerable angle. That to the right was named by acclamation Victoria;
+that to the left, Albert Mountain. At the time we were ignorant of the
+melancholy event which but two days before had plunged a whole nation
+into mourning. The deep metallic blue that invested Pico Grande,
+compared with the green-brown hue of the nearer mountain parallels,
+suggested the idea that a chasm separated fore from background. Happily
+for us, it was not so.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MOUNT HELEN.
+
+Page 136.]
+
+After the first naming we proceeded to distinguish the others by
+Christian appellations; even strict geographers cannot blame the act in
+a place which has absolutely no terminology; besides which, by precising
+our several points, the bearings and altitudes may be subsequently
+corrected, and future travellers will more easily trace out our route.
+The cone upon which we were standing—it proved subsequently most useful
+as a landmark—was named by Mr. Saker, after his wife, ‘Mount Helen.’ I
+contented myself with a glorious mass, looming high in the limpid air to
+the N.N.W. (magnetic), and with similar marital dutifulness called it
+Mount Isabel.[69] The ceremony was concluded with a seemly libation; we
+could not dine here as Britons ought, but we compounded with the
+assistance of the B. P. apparatus a bowl of punch. M. Casella’s
+policeman’s lantern and new zeometer proved useful in the strong wind,
+when the old shaving-pot occupied a long time in collecting wood and
+charring it, to get rid of the smoke.[70] The extreme difference between
+the two results, after five readings, was only 0·6, and the mean 0·5.
+The summit of Mount Helen was found to be 9223 to 9383 feet, and the
+base of the cone was 7932 feet above sea-level.
+
+Thus exhilarated by our morning’s work we prepared at 10 A.M. to descend
+the cone, which we effected after the fashion of visitors to
+Vesuvius,—not on our feet. An observation from Mount Helen had given the
+bearing of Earthwork Crater, near our camp, W.S.W.; we resolved to
+follow the chord instead of the arc which we had taken during the
+ascent. At the foot of Mount Helen we fell into a weathered lava-bed,
+which we named No. 2. The breadth varies from 100 yards to a mile. It
+issues from a neighbouring crater in a S.E. direction, bending to the
+S., where, like No. 1, it terminates abruptly; and it is manifestly a
+much newer formation than the field up which we had travelled in the
+earlier morning. It is observable that, though the craters open in all
+directions, the course of the lava-rivers is invariably southerly. I
+leave the consideration to more expert volcanists than myself; but may
+not the violent N. and N.E. gales—the constant land-breeze from the cold
+peaks to the warm sea—that twists the trees upon these mountains, have
+determined the direction of their liquid outflow?
+
+Our road lay along a crater breached on the S.E. side, to which we gave
+the name of our friend Judge Calvo; it lay nearly due north of Earthwork
+Crater, and was another landmark. As we flattered ourselves that
+breakfast was near, an ocean of white mist-cloud, dense but not dark,
+overwhelmed us, and we wandered from east to west till after a long
+delay we hit upon a hunter’s trail. This led us over deep black gashes
+in the subsoil lava, and along the steep flank of Earthwork Crater into
+camp. We arrived at 11·45 A.M., after a walk of nearly six hours.
+
+Christmas-day was somewhat sad to those who could not prevent
+
+
+  ‘The busy goste, aye flick’ring to and fro,’
+
+
+winging her way to far-off regions which the heavy clay cannot reach. In
+such wild scenes, with wilder work before them, men are too apt to think
+regretfully of merry gatherings round the Yule log, the _leche de
+almandras_, and the Christmas-tree, forgetting the inevitable worries of
+‘home,’ and the pains and penalties of civilization, so terrible to
+endure after the life of liberty in the desert; besides, if we lose the
+revelry at night, do we not also escape the headache next morning?
+
+By way of occupation on Christmas-day, in the morning I accompanied Mr.
+Saker to the summit of Earthwork Crater. It lies about thirteen
+miles[71] from Victoria, and five from the summit of the Peak. It is
+here a typical formation, so it may be described at some length. From a
+distance it resembles nothing so much as half an egg-shell with a broken
+top; we named it from the regularity of its smooth grassy slopes,
+already reddened by the change of season. No glacis, no work of
+‘navvies,’ could appear more artificial. It is impossible not to see in
+this shape the hand of Neptune; and we conjectured that from Mount Helen
+to the shore all must have been formed in quick rise from a quiet
+sea—submarine opposed to the subaërial above. This, however, must be
+settled by the presence or absence of fossils, such as those which have
+been discovered on Monte Somma. The southern base is clothed with the
+forest of tall trees in which we have pitched our camp. Measured from
+the bottom of the slope, the total height and length are 640 feet,
+including 340 feet for the upper or grassy portion. The aneroid showed
+162 feet of direct height.[72] The circumference of the upper rim is 522
+feet, and the periphery of the bowl is complete except at the W.S.W.,
+where, broken by a lava-stream trending southwards, it assumes from
+above the shape of a horseshoe. The internal depth is one hundred
+perpendicular feet; it has long burned out, and during the rains water
+sinks in its cup, attracting small birds. Three distinct ridges of lava
+may be traced in the inner wall. The highest part of the basin-rim is
+the N.W., where another liquid stream from the N.E., butting up to the
+crater wall, has sliced away the slope into a perpendicular cliff, and
+has circled round a portion of the S.W. base. As in many similar
+formations, the gradual slipping of the side soil under the influence of
+sun and rain has formed a small clean flat margin at the base, like a
+shallow saucer supporting an inverted cup.[73] The Phlegethon once
+issuing from Earthwork Crater is nearly embedded in earth, and partly
+overgrown with shrubs; there are little pitholes and rocks with
+diminutive ledges, which at times must supply the beasts of the wild
+with drink.
+
+Nothing could be more beautiful than the slanting rays of the sun,
+sharply bisecting the inner crater with yellow light, that refused to
+blend with the purple shades below. We stood upon the topmost crest and
+waved our caps, to see if the action would be reflected as in the Hartz
+Mountains—without result as at Tenerife. The summit fully explained the
+ant-hill-like appearance which the highlands wear when viewed from
+Fernando Po and Ambas Bay. Besides the eruptive ‘lapilli’ craters,
+hidden to the eastward by mist and lava-bed, we counted eleven distinct
+forms in the north, to the south nine, and eleven to the south-west—a
+total of thirty-one, within a radius of perhaps two miles, literally
+undermining the whole land. They are of two distinct formations. Those
+under 6000 to 7000 feet are montecules, covered with dense forest, but
+still betraying their origin by their conformation: those above that
+altitude are smooth, grassy, regular, and uniform. From this point we
+could distinctly see the half-way platform of Little Camaroons.
+
+After breakfast Mr. Saker left us for Camaroons River, promising to
+return early the next month. We made up for him a party of six armed
+men, who were directed to bring stores from our depôt at Victoria. The
+child ‘Poor Fellow’ also accompanied him. Five days afterwards we heard
+with pleasure that this first descent, through a region which might be
+called hostile, had been effected without accident, except to boots. Mr.
+Saker descended, at some pain to his crural muscles, Lava Bed No. 1 in
+two hours twenty minutes, not including halts, and reached Victoria on
+the next day. It was not the fault of his escort, however, that the
+return did not end tragically. Krumen have no relish for the ‘bitter
+sweets of war.’ Passing the outlying houses of Mapanya at early dawn,
+the party was heard by an old man, who challenged them, and, receiving
+no answer, shouted for help. Off at the sound like startled deer went my
+acting head-man, a great burly fellow called Tom Bushman, followed by
+Messrs. Seabreeze, Nyanyi, and others—they were subsequently punished by
+half rations—nor did they stop till they had reached the Mission
+Station, and had reported that, after a deadly fight, the white man had
+been slain, and the rest of his escort made prisoners. Mrs. Saker,
+knowing the men, was incredulous. Mr. Johnson at once sent a message to
+King William of Bimbia, after which he and Mr. Pinnock started up the
+hill. After a ten minutes’ walk they met Mr. Saker coming towards them.
+He had suffered no damage beyond losing his way for a couple of miles,
+and paying a head of tobacco for guidance to a Bushman. The letter
+containing these details further informed us that our late companion had
+found a direct path from Mapanya to Bosumbo, and that the down-journey
+from our camp to Victoria could be made in twelve hours, allowing two
+hours for the Lava Bed No. 1.
+
+We did our best to honour Christmas Day. Kind Mrs. Saker had given us a
+plum-pudding, which fared badly in the encounter, and we had beef, but a
+trifle salt. A forest of Yule logs lay around us—I wished it had been my
+property within easy carriage of Paris—and a giant fire lighted up the
+camp. We spent a merry evening, telling old tales around our hearth,
+and, cognac being deficient, we roughed it on a bowl of anizado. During
+my wanderings I had found an as yet undetermined species of wild mint,
+whose flavour when bruised is tolerable,[74] and we pronounced the julep
+to be far from unpalatable. At this venerable season, when good works as
+well as good living are expected from us, I contribute my quotum by
+offering to my English fellow-countrymen the following recipe for a mint
+beverage à la Virginie:—
+
+
+                               _Recipe._
+
+Take of mint quant. suff.; soak in brandy or other spirit for fifteen
+minutes; sweeten according to taste. Cool the minted liquor with smashed
+ice. Shake till the mixture is homogeneous. Add a sprig for ‘the
+garden,’—and imbibe.
+
+
+Before undertaking other expeditions we resolved to re-form the camp,
+and thus employed the whole 26th of December. The Krumen were banished
+to a certain distance, where their brawling voices and horseplay could
+not offend, and were ordered to bring in daily a certain amount of
+firewood, under penalty of ‘no chop.’ The Judge and I sallied out pick
+and axe in hand. We improved our Acis, Mann’s Spring, by clearing away
+the turf, deepening the basin, and embanking the precious lymph: after
+half an hour the Naiad of the rill would not have known her own home.
+Then the encampment was provided with a variety of comforts. Herbaceous
+stalks and young branches compacted with ‘tie-tie,’ or the tender
+withies of the clematis and various barks—rope is never wanted in an
+African forest—formed chairs and fauteuils, couches, bedsteads, tables,
+and benches, a platform for drying botanical specimens, a canopy to
+shelter us from the sun, sleeping boothies, and a store hut. All was
+rural in the extreme, but the general appearance was decidedly cosy. We
+looked like anything but ‘castaways on a lee-shore.’ That our _coin du
+feu_ might be the more comfortable at night, the Judge constructed a
+Turkish lantern, a cylinder of red cloth round a framework of splinters,
+and the effect was a pleasant glowing light. We cut away the boughs
+which might be brought down upon our heads by violent winds, the wild
+squalls, and fierce puffs, here as common as on the Peak of Tenerife,
+and had no reason afterwards to regret this precaution. A Pelourinho, or
+whipping-post, was erected _in terrorem_. Finally, we cleared decent
+entrances, and we laid down tasks for lazy men to be done each day.
+
+M. Mann was still suffering; he feared an attack of dysentery, ever
+risky at these altitudes. The internal cold had disappeared before the
+usual adhibitions—a little cognac internally, and externally plenty of
+flannel. He was not, however, well enough to walk: the Judge and I
+therefore resolved to make a reconnaissance of Pico Grande, and to place
+a store of water-breakers on the way in readiness for a general
+expedition to the summit.
+
+After a fine night, when grave-like silence was interrupted only by the
+wind thundering at times over our heads, and bringing down dry twigs
+upon our dormitories, causing the trees to creek and groan—a sad sound
+in the forest during storms—we arose at 5·30 A.M. on Friday, the 27th
+December, and prepared for the undertaking. The party consisted of Judge
+Calvo and myself: three Krumen—Messrs. Two-Glass, Kharabu, and Jack
+Brass—carried water-breakers and provaunt; whilst ‘King Eyo,’ who
+claimed all the right royal to do wrong, or to do nothing, brought up
+the rear. The dawn was cloudless, windless, and clear, as the last
+night’s Venus—we used to watch her as one would a barometer—had
+promised; the morning haze was cool and pleasant; and we enjoyed the sun
+as we wound along the clover-grown sides of Earthwork and Calvo Craters,
+and up the rugged Lava Bed No. 2. The distance was about a mile and a
+quarter, yet it was two hours before we threw ourselves down to rest
+under the trees at the sheltered western foot of Mount Helen—we found it
+necessary to treat the Krumen as the Chinamen do their ducks—beat the
+last that enters the boat-house—and at 8·45 A.M. the thermometer in the
+grass at the halting-place showed 57° Fah.
+
+Resuming our way after fifteen minutes’ stretch, we entered upon the
+grassy and rocky mountain-slope separating us from Mount Isabel. Having
+crossed by a natural bridge a small deep and narrow crevasse, whose
+sides were overgrown with vegetation, we turned northwards, wound over
+three distinct folds of hill, where a few dry herbaceous plants
+lingered, and where the bright hypericum already showed a stunted
+growth. Sign of deer was numerous: not a quadruped, however, large or
+small, met our eyes. We thought that we had detected a village at a
+distance, but it proved a heap of rocks. Traces of natives, however,
+showed here and there in a Robinson Crusoe-like footstep and in sundry
+fireplaces. Leaving on the right a jagged broken cone, crowning an
+earthwork-like eminence which I called Mount Selim, and on the left four
+montecules of the usual broken-egg shape, we ascended a steep outlying
+cone. At the summit, about half-way up Mount Isabel, we found a
+sheltered terrepleine, which we judged fitted for a water depôt, and we
+sat down to breakfast and to a draught of the carminative anizado. The
+distance was about a mile and a half, and the hour 10 A.M.
+
+From the apex of the sub-range, looking back, we could have enjoyed a
+grand panorama of craters, sweeping in vast semicircle. Northwards,
+however was a spectacle that absorbed all our attention. Straight before
+us rose in ineffable majesty those glorious peaks, tangible, as it were,
+in the morning æther, high towering over all the subject land and
+dwarfing the craters and cones below. No chasm separated us from them.
+Beyond the base of Mount Isabel the ground swelled gently upwards to the
+feet of the King of all the Cones. I marked at once our path,—a broad
+meandering lava-bed, which had been confined to certain limits by dwarf
+spiracles dotted on both sides. The colour of Pico Grande’s radial lines
+was peculiar. A faint, dull green seemed to streak the coal-coloured
+eastern slopes, which were far less abrupt than the western; a long
+perpendicular sweep of blue parted most sensibly Victoria from Albert
+Mountain; and whilst the latter showed a distinct but small crater, the
+former was beautified with descending stripes of red and yellow—remnants
+of once-glowing heat—falling from a cliff or scaur a few yards below its
+apex, and the foreground wore its usual coating of red-yellow grasses.
+Nothing more vivid and pure than the lights, nothing darker and more
+transparent than the shadows.
+
+I seized the Judge’s arm, and pointed to the colossus, and swore that we
+would play Jack the Giant-Killer that day. He meekly shook his head,
+opined that we would do our best, and referred me to my breakfast, which
+stuck in my throat.
+
+Our Kruboys had shown even more than usual laziness, and King Eyo, who
+carried only a gun, usually loitered half a mile behind. The party was
+weeded by leaving the latter and Two-Glass, a noted shirker, to
+supervise the remainder of our day’s provision. The breakers intended
+for the future expedition were deposited in a safe place, and at 10·30
+A.M. we set out with uncommon elation of spirits, ‘Excelsior!’ being now
+the word. Mountain-climbing was now over, and with it the exhilaration
+which the succession of distant obstacles to be overcome excites; but
+was not Pico Grande before us?
+
+The path ran along the steep side of a kind of gate, formed by two cones
+with a little hollow between, and we were forced to tread on the edges
+of our feet. After a quarter of an hour we had passed the right-hand
+staple, and descended by a gentle slope, not destitute of pit-holes,
+into a shallow gorge that screened us from the strong north-easter.
+Hence we debouched upon the bed of lava which we had sighted from Mount
+Isabel, and named it No. 3. From this position we could better
+distinguish its source,—a crater on the left or westward of the great
+cone. It flows from north-east to south-west, bending to due south.
+Striking the end of the stream, which here has been suddenly arrested by
+a rise of ground, we followed the smoothly bevelled rim of a hill—an
+edging like the ‘ice-foot’ of the Polar regions—on the proper right, and
+then struck across the bed towards another buttress on the left of the
+old _coulée_. We afterwards regretted having preferred this course,
+thinking that we might have saved ourselves distance and toil by taking
+the other bank. Subsequent experience, however, proved the contrary. The
+passage occupied half an hour. We spent the first twenty minutes walking
+800 feet over an erupted matter overgrown with dry green moss, and
+crumbling like pumice[75] beneath the tread. The last 400 feet lay over
+a ridgy bed of ruddy black clinker, hairy with burnt cryptogams; its
+detached stones, without intermediate débris, sharp-angled and sun-
+polished, made progress slow and painful. The contrast of this hard,
+dark, unweatherworn vein with the spongy green coating was curious; and
+I noticed in the different gashes, sections, and chasms formed by
+unequal cooling and floods, that the former everywhere underlies the
+latter after a depth of three or four feet. Judging from the position,
+both have been produced by the same outflow, which, however, could not
+have been the work of a very remote epoch.
+
+At 11·30 A.M., after walking about a mile and three-quarters, we reached
+the cone on the proper left of the stream, wound along its edge, which
+was clean cut as if smoothed by art, and encumbered by strong, thick
+tussocks, which it would be a misnomer to call grass. The Great Peak was
+sensibly neared,—a circumstance which not a little increased our _élan_.
+After a ten minutes’ walk we found ourselves again condemned to cross,
+at right angles too, the frontal ridges of the same lava-bed to the
+north-east, where, being higher up, it was more broken but narrower. The
+features were the same,—old and green, new and black.
+
+This passage led us to what appeared two grassy cones outlying the base
+of the Pico Grande. In a little hollow at the foot of the nearest we
+found a clump of shrubby trees, which was marked out as the resting-
+place of the future expedition. They rose in front of us with a central
+depression, and, not knowing that they were separated from the Peak with
+which they seemed to be connected, we judged it advisable to ascend the
+hollow between them. The incline was unusually steep, and the surface
+disconnected tussocks of the _Deschampia cæspitosa_, a graminea, which
+forms masses of three feet diameter and two feet high, and which sinks a
+cubit beneath the tread; its hard blades sound in the wind like the flow
+of water, and its stiff points pierce the clothes like thorns. In little
+patches there were finely-ground coal-black scoriæ, scorching in the
+sunbeams, and raising the heat to Black Hole temperature. The ground
+sounded hollow under the tread, but I listened vainly for ‘Bramidos.’
+Having reached the summit, we found that the supposed two cones were but
+the double head concealing the rim of a beautifully formed crater, an
+inverted cone, circular, and with narrow edge-like lip, about 300 feet
+in circumference. The regular internal slope shelving down from the
+aperture was clothed like the external, with grass, to the very floor,
+which has a jetty pavement of fragmentary lava. I called it Mount
+Milnes, after a very good friend.
+
+After that waste of labour in the merciless rays of the flaming sun—we
+could easily have rounded this abutment of the Peak—we allowed ourselves
+a quarter of an hour’s rest, and abandoned ourselves to the charm of the
+situation. We were the first Europeans certainly, perhaps the first men,
+who have ever stood within gunshot of that tall solitary pile. We made
+eternal silence vocal with a cheer,—there was no one to deride our
+demonstrativeness.
+
+A nearer scrutiny explained some points which we had misunderstood from
+afar. The main Peak was entirely isolated, with a long sloping chine on
+our right (eastward), and a more abrupt descent in front and on the
+left. The faint green hue of the former was produced by a scanty
+crusting of lichen. The long sweep of blue was a slide—a herbless
+rift—of fine black comminuted cinder; and the red and yellow scaurs were
+fire-tinged scoriæ. The long eastern shoulder would have been the
+easiest, the difficult loose slide of lava-dust the shortest. I
+preferred a _mezzo termine_, and chose a ridgelet running up Victoria
+Mountain.
+
+At 1 P.M. we addressed ourselves to the task of walking round the crater
+of Mount Milnes. Here, however, the Judge stopped; having slightly
+sprained his right ankle, he decided, looking at the task before him,
+that it was beyond his powers; and advised me to reserve it for another
+day. Subsequences almost made me regret that I had not followed his
+counsel. But on second thoughts—No! To be first in such matters is
+everything; to be second, nothing. Besides, the announcement made to us
+at Mapanya had rendered the affair a kind of steeple-chase; there was
+perhaps a little ‘_malice_’ in my wish to win.
+
+Descending the tufted cone, between which and the great Peak there was
+no débris, I began to breast the ascent. Jack Brass, who carried my warm
+clothing, had sat down in some secluded spot where he was doubtless
+dozing in the warm midday sun, and Kharabu only remained to accompany
+me. The good Judge lent me his flask of spirits and water: having
+detected my companion neatly ‘tiefing’ the contents, I took the bottle
+under my especial charge; and twice when Kharabu’s glazed eyes and
+cracked lips showed symptoms of defaillance, it served to keep him
+alive. These Krumen are not hill-men. Their iron bones and leathery
+muscles are not to be tired with rowing and paddling, but on the
+mountain they soon weary.
+
+I first made a long elbow towards an isolated clump of basaltic _arêtes_
+springing from the lava and pumice slope on the left. We will call them
+‘Half-way Rocks.’ The walking was easy enough, and the angle gentle; but
+no lava-stream here existing, and the small cinders slipping down with
+the foot, it was somewhat fatiguing. From these little ‘Grands Mulets’ I
+turned to the right, and, keeping the topmost red and yellow scaur in
+sight, followed the ragged edge of a small ridge, whose mossy lava-lumps
+afforded hold to the tread. The only remarkable feature of the ascent
+was a sprinkling of coarse quartzose stone, which we had not seen
+elsewhere. At times the all-fours position became preferable to the
+usual and more dignified; but in presence of such a sun as then glowed
+upon us, with far fiercer radiation than below, I had no shame in
+prostrating myself.[76] As we neared the summit the steepness and
+looseness of the material was increasing; Kharabu sank down nearly
+fainting from the sun’s arrowy beams, and was allowed to remain behind.
+At 1·30 I stood upon the summit of the Peak, where new and unexpected
+objects met my sight.
+
+Victoria Mountain now proved to be the shell of a huge ‘double crater,’
+opening to the south-eastward, where a tremendous torrent of fire had
+broken down the weaker wall. The whole interior and its accessible
+breach now lay before me, plunging sheer in vertical cliff. The depth of
+the bowl may be 250 feet; the total diameter of the two, which are
+separated by a rough partition of lava, 1000 feet. The interior slope is
+a highly irregular cliff, which drops horizontally, streaked and
+ribboned with igneous matter, red and yellow, whose bands of colour
+indicate horizontal stratification, and comminuted scoriæ standing at an
+angle of 45°. Not a blade of grass, not a thread of moss breaks the
+gloom of the Plutonic pit, which is as black as Erebus, except where the
+fire has painted it red and yellow. To the north-west appeared a ridge
+overtopping the rest of the two-headed cone which we had called Albert
+Mountain, and a bluff wall or dyke, which I had not time to visit.
+
+To record my claim I heaped up a small cairn of stones, and in it placed
+a fragment from the facetious pages of Mr. Punch, perhaps the greatest
+traveller on record, and certainly one of the traveller’s best friends.
+When Kharabu rejoined me with the B. P. apparatus, an attempt was made
+to boil. But Jack Brass had prudently kept with him the blanket intended
+to shelter the match; the furious nor’-easter[77]—it left its mark upon
+me for a fortnight afterwards—charging and eddying round the cone at the
+rate of thirty miles an hour, threatened to sweep us away from the lip
+of the crater’s gap like flies; and after a few attempts I desisted,
+promising myself success at another and more favourable time.
+
+In such doings, 2 P.M. had sped. There was a reverse to the medal,
+Success—the prospect of a night to be spent in the open; and the
+doctrine of inevitable Compensation taught me to expect some evil, which
+came, however, in another form. The ascent had occupied seven hours, and
+there remained barely four till sunset, for five miles to camp. I tried
+again the Vesuvian style of descent, and narrowly escaped, so loose is
+the surface, gaining a momentum which would have dashed me against the
+boulders that studded the base. Under the black cinders lies a stratum
+of grey ‘_ceneri_,’ which looks white by contrast; at the base of the
+cone our line of descent appeared a thin glistening thread. When half-
+way down, the Judge waved a signal from Mount Milnes for me to take the
+western side of the lava-bed, which we had twice crossed on the up-
+march. I preferred, however, encountering known rather than unknown
+troubles. The descent of the Great Peak occupied thirty minutes.
+
+A few words will describe the hurry homewards over the dry and weary
+land. Skulking Jack Brass was found snugly curled up in a sunny form on
+a hillside, and received a present which he will not forget. He appeared
+to be terribly lame, but when time pressed he forgot all his ailments,
+and devanced the rest of the party. Arrived at Mount Isabel, we awoke
+King Eyo, who apparently had been hybernating ever since; loaded Two-
+Glass, and rested ten minutes; a wind was blowing that shrank the
+mercury to 40°, and made our extremities feel deadly cold. A cloud-bank
+like a dust haze, 20° deep, was all we could see in the west, and, as we
+passed our beacon and guide, Mount Helen,
+
+
+  ‘The sun’s rim dipp’d, the stars rush’d out,
+
+    At one stride came the dark,’
+
+
+and utter darkness, too, before 7 P.M. It is bad enough to be benighted
+on a rutty English road. What was it here with a surface of grass
+tussocks and lava-blocks, deep falls and jagged crevasses? We lighted
+the wax-ends used for the B. P. They soon burned out, and what was worse
+they melted the solder of the water-cup. After a heavy fall or two, and
+shocks enough to break a Town man’s tendon Achilles, or to rupture his
+diaphragm, we were compelled to halt. The Kru-cry, however, brought a
+response, and presently we saw firesticks—the excellent Selim being as
+usual to the fore—dancing in the darkness like Will-o’-the-wisps. The
+cold night-wind threatening pleurisy kept us moving till we were able to
+reach camp. We entered at 8·30 P.M., after full twelve hours occupied in
+getting over ten miles. The Krumen and Eyo all arrived safely, and
+Kharabu, besides a promise from his master, received a present of cloth
+in consideration of his good conduct. The day of hard work was followed
+by a wakeful night, caused by cramp and spasmodic contractions of the
+lower limbs;[78]—already retribution had begun.
+
+I was astonished by the extreme regularity of the mountain, and by the
+almost complete absence of those accidents of ground which distinguish
+Vesuvius, Etna, Stromboli, Pico de Teyde, Popocatapetl, and other
+volcanoes. Considering the magnitude of the pyramid, its surface is
+nearly as smooth as it can be up to the crowning vent. Nor is it, as
+will afterwards appear, an ‘epitome of globe vegetation,’ Alpine types
+being very rare; whilst the absence of snow deprives it of glaciers,
+couloirs, debâcles, and moraines, Rigi Kulms, and Monte Rosas. I
+remarked, however, with pleasure that there were no large watercourses
+in the upper regions, showing the rains to be scanty; if heavy, meteoric
+denudation would have stripped the cones of their thin coating of soil.
+In many places, also, water, confined by higher ground, sinks; these
+might be converted into tanks, as in Persia and Sindh.
+
+The specimens forwarded to the Geological Museum proved to be all of
+volcanic origin; scoriæ, lavas, bombs, trachytic traps, sands apparently
+with an admixture of magnetic iron, and a few crystals of augite and
+olivine.
+
+In the morning the travellers were distinguished by the looped and
+windowed raggedness of their dress, and by hobbling about like cheap
+‘screws’ after a long hunting-day. Beyond sun and wind-burned hands and
+face, my companion suffered nothing, and speedily recovered from his
+sprain. But in an evil hour I had set out in a pair of loose waterproof
+boots, which began by softening and ended by half-flaying the feet. It
+was a spectacle next morning when they were removed. This is the fourth
+recurrence of a similar annoyance, the three others having happened at
+Meccah, at Harar, and on the hills of Usumbara. Caustic and diachylum
+were both wanting for some time, till at last a little of the latter was
+brought up from the lowlands. Presently supervened another African
+consequence of cold, wet, and over-exertion—swollen feet. To this also I
+had been a martyr in the Eastern region. In the lowlands the disease is
+dangerous; it may last three months, and end in the worst consequences
+of inflammation—ulcerations that cripple the limb. It has little acute
+suffering. This absence of pain is typical of African disease, as
+anæsthetic death is of India—in both places the exhaustion of nervous
+energy may be the cause—and when feeling comes on recovery approaches.
+The natives, who are equally ignorant of Dr. Allopath’s powder and Dr.
+Homœopath’s pill, treat it with hydropathic bandages. I first tried
+arnica plaster, in the absence of diachylum, and then dressings of rum
+and water, in the want of spirits of wine.[79] My case concluded with a
+little ague and fever, and I was unable to walk for a week, a fortnight,
+a month, thus losing thirty days out of forty-six. Thus the exultation
+of the day was succeeded by the depression of the morrow, and unusual
+pleasure brought its own penalty.
+
+
+[Footnote 67: This Hypericum (angustifolium) is described as one of the
+links between Fernando Po, Camaroons, Abyssinia, and Bourbon: it is
+common on the Peak of Tenerife, above 2000 feet high, and it ranges on
+these hills between 7000 and 10,000 feet above sea-level, where,
+however, it dwindles to a shrub. The smaller stems are as good as rose
+or cherry sticks for pipes.]
+
+[Footnote 68: In the chart the direct distance between the two peaks is
+nine miles.]
+
+[Footnote 69: Others were named Mount Emily, bearing N.N.E. ¼ E., and
+Mount Eliza (one of the three sisters), bearing S. by E.; but they were
+not in the line of road.]
+
+[Footnote 70: M. Casella’s instrument, which I believe is now greatly
+improved, was a policeman’s lantern, with the thermometer protruding
+from the side of the water-cup. It had two great disadvantages, the
+fragility of the tube and the effect of the wind upon the mercury. The
+cup, moreover, was soldered instead of being made of block tin.]
+
+[Footnote 71: Measured 70,394 feet.]
+
+[Footnote 72: Little importance can be attached to an aneroid
+observation at this altitude.]
+
+[Footnote 73: This is on a small scale the Cañada of the Tenerife Peak,
+a flat strip of ground, more or less broad, silted up with fine pumice.]
+
+[Footnote 74: The same species flourishes in the upper heights of
+Fernando Po, and there is another which grows in the lowlands.]
+
+[Footnote 75: Neither here, however, nor elsewhere, did we find pumice
+properly so called.]
+
+[Footnote 76: Solar exposure or radiation is the opposite of
+temperature. On clear days, when the latter is lowest in the shade the
+former is highest, and _vice versâ_. Every traveller has felt this, and
+yet the presence of snow, which merely proves its non-conducting powers
+upon the highest mountains, has given rise to the popular idea that the
+nearer we approach the sun the less heat we feel.]
+
+[Footnote 77: The wind, despite the greater rarity of the air, blows
+with much greater violence at 13,000 than at 5000 feet high. This
+increase of velocity with height is probably due to our approaching the
+centre of the aërial current.]
+
+[Footnote 78: This African plague is accounted for by the faculty in
+various ways. Dr. Clarke of Sierra Leone attributes it to the presence
+of acrid substances internally, whereas it is most frequent ‘upon an
+empty stomach.’ Others derive it from inequality of evaporation or
+radiation from the body, from derangement of the liver, from bad
+circulation, and from cold producing undue contraction of the muscles.
+As usual with the obscure nervous disorders, where the scientific can do
+little, every one has a remedy of his or her own. I have been
+recommended to sleep with a tub of cold water under the bed, to hold a
+mutton-bone in the right hand, to stand and stamp when unable to move,
+and to kick out with the heel when the limb is as rigid as wood. A tight
+ligature above the afflicted part, like the Arab Hibas, sometimes
+removes extreme pain. The only remedy, however, is thoroughly to heat
+the offending member by spirit frictions, hot foot-baths, and swathes of
+flannel.]
+
+[Footnote 79: The maximum proportions are one part of spirits to five of
+cold water. Mr. Saker, whose prescription it is, obtained the former by
+two distillations from trade rum, of which a gallon produced about one
+quart of rectified alcohol, the rest being water, and a residuum too
+offensive and poisonous to be endured. A pleasant offering of Europe to
+her sister Africa!]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+         SUBSEQUENT ASCENTS BY MESSRS. CALVO, SAKER, AND MANN.
+
+
+For a week we led a tranquil life, free from the care of cities, and
+beyond reach of the barbarous Bakwiri, in this Paradise of wildernesses.
+‘O Corte, O Cortejo,’ says the Spanish proverb; it speaks the truth,
+like Sancho Panza. There are no azure fiends here. Even the Judge felt
+no disposition to ‘caer la paletilla.’[80] Not a soul approached us; the
+natives feared a rough reception by day from white men, who were
+doubtless collecting the vast stores of cloth with which the mountains
+are supposed to be covered;[81] and at night the jungle is not a
+favourite walk with them. We rose with the sun, whose beams, passing
+through a thicker atmosphere than that of the plains, were but faintly
+warm, comforted ourselves chatting round the bright wood-fire, wrote our
+journals, and, after breakfast at 8 A.M., proceeded to the business of
+the day. The Judge made sundry excursions, with a view to short cuts. M.
+Mann set out with his wire frames, and returned only to dry his
+specimens, a process which must be repeated every day in these damp
+regions, and which cannot be committed to natives. The Krumen, not
+having been allowed to ‘wax fat and kick,’ and tamed by the discipline
+of the pelourinho, laughed and sang whilst they worked at the camp and
+felled trees. I was experimenting upon the time it would take one man to
+make cultivable ground of an acre of bush—an operation at which, as it
+involves destruction, they appear proficients. Selim sallied forth with
+Black Beggar, the cook,—who is also my instructor in the Kru tongue, and
+a first-rate shot with an old rattletrap musket,—in search of specimens
+of small beasts and birds. As the dried nests showed, the season of
+nidification was passed, and the juveniles were already on the wing.
+Unhappily, our shot was too large; the arsenical soap would not come up
+from Victoria before Mr. Saker, and many of the birds were too young for
+good preservation. The little barbarians were so wholly unacquainted
+with rice that when placed upon the ground as bait they paid no
+attention to it. Insects are remarkably scarce at these altitudes,
+whereas in the lowlands every dead tree’s bark contains a swarm. Only
+two land shells were found, and none appeared in the grassy region above
+the woods. Besides the field-rat before alluded to, no fewer than three
+animals new to science were secured, and duly forwarded to the British
+Museum—a mus, a crocidura, an anomalurus, and, the most interesting of
+the series, a ‘beautiful new species’ of Sciurus, which Dr. Gray was
+kind enough to name Sciurus Isabella.[82] Some of these were shot,
+others were caught in the Kruman trap. A fine hawk or eagle haunted us
+for days, but never trusted himself within reach of Black Beggar’s
+unerring ‘scattering-iron.’ We also rigged up a musket in the usual way,
+baited with a bit of meat attached to the trigger. After salt pork had
+been tried in vain, we supplied its place with fresh meat, but met no
+success. The larger animals appear very wary on the mountains. More than
+once, especially at early dawn, antelope were sighted from afar, grazing
+in the open, but never allowed a shot. Selim also saw two hawks
+attacking a deer which was apparently maimed. It made the bush, however,
+before he could reach the spot. The Krumen were often frightened at
+night by the loud breathing and the laughing of the hyæna close to our
+huts—once they met it during the day, when both parties fled
+precipitately in opposite directions—and lay close under their blankets,
+the only way to invite attack from the cowardly beast. After sitting up
+for several nights, we abandoned the hope of securing a skin of this
+animal, which did not fail, however, to strip our springes of their
+‘small deer,’ rats and mice.
+
+The forest wore a European look, but with dyes so limpid and tender that
+the eye never wearied in contemplating it. This is here the ‘sweet of
+the year,’ and the deadliest season at Fernando Po and upon the coast.
+The days are those of the Tuscan Apennine in spring and autumn; the
+morning is still, and ‘clear as the eyes of Christabel,’ and we hear the
+distant murmurs of the restless waves upon the sounding Æthiopic shore.
+During the day a mist-cloud, which the wind cannot rout, sweeps round
+Earthwork Crater, bringing a refreshing change, and the evenings are
+mild and serene. At times it threatens rain, but the downfall is never
+more than a few drops. The daily wind is the north-easter, not a Trade,
+the tyrant of the sub-tropical seas, but a land breeze, increased I
+believe, by induction through the mountain-tops, and drawn with steady
+and ceaseless force, as if from an endless reservoir, towards the
+regions of damp heat below. The return current, or south-wester, was
+rare; perhaps we had not attained its height. The clouds are torn to
+pieces by it, and we sometimes see them travelling, as at Madeira, in
+three several directions; when they meet, fierce and furious are the
+battles. We meet once more at 3 P.M. for food, and after that we keep
+our minds from starving with a book, or we ‘imp feathers to the broken
+wings of Time’ with sketching. Thus the day walks on _lanei pedes_, and
+after 6 P.M., when the sun is about to set through the lowland mists, we
+collect round the blazing hearth of basalt blocks—there is no better
+company to the wanderer than a fire[83]—and while away the last hours
+with chat and drink. The deep, dark forest is as silent as the grave,
+except when the screech-owl, most melancholy if not most musical, throws
+her note into the shades, or the hyæna whimpers in the distance, ghostly
+as the shade of some ancient denizen of the wild, or a mighty rushing
+wind from the north sweeps high over the tree tops, hardly causing the
+flame below to flicker. An avenue cut along the side of Earthwork Crater
+shows the Evening Star smiling upon us with her soft and lovely light,—I
+watch her as a lover when she sinks to rest behind the curtain of
+moonlit cloud. We separate at 8 P.M., and enjoy sparingly the pleasures
+of memory, which, methinks, the careful mental husbandman should reserve
+like cards, in case of such accident as old age, when all the passions,
+except that of eating, shall have been extinguished. During night the
+grumbling of thunder far beneath our feet is our rude lullaby. Once, and
+only once, I heard a cracking in the underwood, which my ears, now
+familiar with the sounds of the backwoods, at once recognized as the
+effect of a human visitor, perhaps of two. Selim brought my revolvers,
+and we debated upon the propriety of firing a shot over the spot, as a
+caution to spies. It is well we did not; we should only have disturbed
+some harmless hunter visiting the spring. After a cool and comfortable
+night—the mercury stands at 50°—unblemished by a single mosquito, or
+without an atom of perspiration on the proboscis, we are awakened at
+earliest dawn by the small brown birds, some tapping like woodpeckers
+the hollow tree-trunks, others singing with might and main tutu-pigi-
+tutu-pigi-tutu-pi. Who was it that said birds have no song in the
+tropics? Any ear can hear that they are singing, and a good ear, when
+familiarized with the novel music, can detect as much melody in it as in
+that of any others. I presume, however, that association has more to do
+with the pleasure derived from the singing of birds than with most other
+human enjoyments.
+
+The expedition, Krumen and all, save myself, being now in a high state
+of preservation, it was judged advisable to make a second
+reconnaissance. Mr. Saker had written to us on the 26th, telling us not
+to wait for him. The letter, by-the-by, did not reach us till the
+evening of the 29th, showing that our lazybones who had escorted the
+returner had spent four days upon a two days’ march. Knowing that the
+‘book’ which they brought up would probably mention their desertion,
+they prudently left it with one of their number in the rear, and the
+rest pressed on to receive a glass of rum. At 10·25 A.M., on the 2nd
+January, 1862, Messrs. Calvo and Mann set out, accompanied by six Krumen
+and King Eyo, with provisions for four days. I despatched about the same
+time six other ‘boys’ to Victoria, in case Mr. Saker might wish to
+return, and remained on the hill-side with Selim Aga and the four
+fellows that completed the party.
+
+Messrs. Calvo and Mann suddenly returned before sunset two days after
+they had started. The latter had brought on a relapse, and looked weak
+and weary; besides which they had allowed the Krumen to finish their
+water and their stores. Moreover, they had forgotten to furnish
+themselves with liquor; and the coldness of the mountain water had begun
+to tell upon them. They had marched, after leaving camp, in an hour and
+three quarters, to Mount Helen; and after resting thirty-five minutes
+had reached in another hour and a half Mount Isabel, where they found
+the water-breakers safe but rather leaky. Whilst their Krumen prepared a
+roosting-place in an old crater, a grassy hollow, promising defence from
+the alpine violence of the night winds, they ascended to the summit, and
+with great difficulty. The azimuth compass had no stand, and their
+‘tropical hands’ were dead with cold. They took bearings of the
+principal points in the glorious sub-range of southern mountains over
+which they had passed; and they found the dormitory anything but
+unpleasant.
+
+At six A.M., on the 3rd January, the reconnoitrers arose, breakfasted,
+fed their men, and were _en route_ before the hour was ended. They
+followed the west—not, as we did, the east—of Lava Bed No. 3, and found
+it, contrary to what had been expected, by far the longer and rougher of
+the two. After about an hour and a half of marching they reached the
+grass-grown hills at the foot of the Pico Grande, and M. Mann named the
+tallest, on the left hand or westward, ‘Mount Hooker.’ Passing round its
+western flank, they found in the northern base a tolerably sheltered
+nighting-place, where they deposited their luggage, under the charge of
+three Krumen. Accompanied by Messrs. John, George, Clipper, and Tom
+Pepper, whose activity was stimulated by hopes of cloth, after an hour’s
+rest they reached the base of the great cone at 11 A.M. As had been
+agreed upon in camp, they turned towards the left, or Albert Crater,
+instead of ascending the front, and, rounding the western side, they
+wound up the slope, which, overlaid with fine black scoriæ and ashes,
+often caused them to ‘sink two steps backwards for one forwards.’ They
+also found the wind so strong that it nearly blew them down. When near
+the summit, they caught sight of a huge depression, distant about four
+miles, and separated from the mountain by a long slope of cinder. They
+described it as an ‘_effondrement_,’ a vast chasm in the earth, oval or
+horse-shoe shaped, with a longer diameter of not less than three miles;
+the sides, sparsely clad with shrubs and plants, fell sheer down. The
+depth they placed at the enormous figure of 3000 feet; and the cavity
+appeared large enough for the Peak to fit into it.
+
+At 1·45 P.M., after nearly four hours’ climb, the explorers stood upon
+the high back wall of Albert Crater, which commands a view of the whole
+summit. They stayed there for half an hour; hung up the self-registering
+thermometers, and left the top, too much benumbed by cold—the mercury
+sank to 45° 50′—for further observations. The violent north-easter
+seemed to pierce through them, and they descended the south-western
+slope, between Albert and Victoria Craters, where they found what M.
+Mann called ‘a wall of granite in huge blocks.’ At 2·30 P.M. they
+descended as rapidly as possible; and at 3·10 P.M., after forty-five
+minutes of slipping and sliding, they reached the rendezvous. King Eyo,
+Black Beggar, and the handsome Ire—so called because he was probably the
+ugliest nigger ever invented—having finished the whole breaker of water,
+Sio, _alias_ Tom Pepper, was sent to fetch another from Mount Isabel.
+Not relishing a solitary walk, he persuaded Clipper and King Eyo to
+accompany him. The precious two started, and were seen no more that
+night. The travellers did not raise the tent; they spent the hours of
+darkness under _la belle étoile_, at the foot of the grassy cone, and
+found the air exceedingly cold.
+
+On the 4th January the reconnoitrers were delayed till 7·30 A.M. for
+water, of which two breakers came instead of one. The idle Krumen had
+suffered as they deserved: one half with thirst, the other with cold.
+King Eyo, the sablest of youths, looked almost white, and threw himself
+about as one with a colic. M. Mann’s relapse necessitating immediate
+return, the party moved at 9·30 A.M.: reaching Mount Isabel, they saw a
+strange apparition. On the opposite side of the crater stood a native
+hunter, with his two small prick-eared curs, adorned with bell
+necklaces. The man was habited in a rug round the loins, and held
+nothing in his hand but a staff or spear. These tribes ignore the bow
+and arrow. The poor wretch halted, spell-bound, which is not to be
+wondered at, by the sight. Evil spirits in Africa are white and ugly, by
+the same rule that they are black and ugly in Europe; and he must have
+thought himself in dire proximity to what we should term the Devil.
+Perhaps he saw before him the Great Pale Face, who haunts the big water,
+guarding the treasures of the mountain.[84] M. Mann, wishing a sketch,
+motioned him to approach: he waved an emphatic negative, tossed his
+arms, and simultaneously shouted, with a peculiar wild cry, to his dogs,
+who were drawing near the strangers, making them turn to the right-
+about, like a file of soldiers. After this he fled wildly down the hill-
+side, and was seen no more. The Bwea people, on the east of the
+mountain, and the mountaineers generally, travel high up. Perhaps this
+phenomenon accounts for the crashing of the wood which I had heard on
+the previous night.[85] It is lucky that the country people are not less
+cowardly than the Krumen. Of these, four out of the five, all armed with
+matchets, ‘bolted’ from one naked hunter; John being the only brave that
+stood his ground. They were not found till near the camp, when,
+_mendaces in excelsis_, they declared that they had run away to warn
+their masters, who had remained behind making collections, of the danger
+that threatened the party.
+
+I had been suffering from ague on that afternoon, and it much resembled
+the pleasant inebriating attack at Lagos. It is, I have said, a highly
+intellectual complaint; it heightens all the faculties; the memory
+becomes most acute; visions of past things flit before the mental eye
+with startling vivacity; flattering hopes of the future bubble from the
+brain. You sing, sketch novels, compose _ariettes_, and spin verse like
+an Italian improvisatore. In this state of wide-awakeness to all around,
+I fancied, about 5 P.M., that a Kru cry was sounding in the distance,
+and ordered those in camp to answer it. They obeyed, but manifestly
+thought me _exalté_. However, at 5·30 P.M. we saw a line of bearers
+winding along Earthwork Crater, a few yards above our heads, and I had
+the pleasure of finding that there had been no accident. M. Mann had
+been somewhat disappointed. He brought home some fine specimens of
+ranunculus, monica, senecio, and leucathoë,[86] besides gramineæ,
+helichrysum, veronica, cytisus, and others, inhabiting the lava-fields
+which surround the highest mountain. But he had found only six species
+not growing in the temperate region; the rest were the lower forms,
+stunted and wilted by wind and cold. He discovered no Alpine types. The
+conifer which he had met at San Thomé, 5000 feet above sea-level, is
+absent from these mountains even at double that altitude. The evening
+passed pleasantly in recounting past adventures. The four fugitive
+Krumen were duly punished; the ringleader received three dozen; the
+others were at once sent back with full breakers to Mount Isabel, and
+all forgot for a week the taste of pork and grog.
+
+On the next day our party upon the hill-side received another accession.
+At 8 A.M. the usual shouts and answers in the Victoria road announced
+the return of Mr. Saker, who was accompanied by Mr. R. Smith, a
+coadjutor of the Camaroons Mission, six Krumen, and three Camaroons men,
+who deserted _en masse_ on the third day. Their ascent presented few
+novelties. Myombi and Botani had been harangued by Mr. Johnson upon the
+folly of ill-treating white men who could close the market to them: and
+this threat of what is to an African the worst of penalties, made both
+chiefs and people exceptionally civil. They had persuaded two Bosumbo
+men to carry part of the loads to Mapanya, and a few leaves of tobacco
+had induced old ‘Balmat’ to accompany them to ‘Ridge Camp.’ They had
+also found a short cut between Bosumbo and Mapanya, enabling them to
+avoid the long eastern _détour_ over bad ground which we had made during
+our ascent. They had performed the journey in fifteen hours and fifteen
+minutes of actual marching, and Mr. Saker estimated the distance at
+twenty-three miles.[87]
+
+We now became a thoroughly dilapidated party, ‘a pitiful company for
+mountain research.’ Mr. Saker took sights all day, and had fever every
+night; Mr. Smith worked out a two months’ tertian which he had caught in
+the Camaroons River; my foot was still painful; and M. Mann suffered so
+much from an old dysentery that it was thought better for him to try
+change of air. It is frequently the effect of the hill climates in
+India, and even of a return from the tropics to England, to draw forth a
+disease whose seeds are latent in the system, after which crisis the
+sufferer may expect a complete return of health.
+
+Active steps were also rendered necessary by the state of our
+provisions. The twenty-five hungry Krumen had got through 1000 lbs. of
+rice in a fortnight, no stores had arrived in the adjoining river from
+England, and Victoria market supplied nothing but yams and kokos, the
+latter of which were sold at eight per leaf of tobacco. ‘Balmat’ made
+his appearance in camp, accompanied by two youths equipped with sword
+and musket, and hung round with little gourds containing their
+ammunition. They brought a present of provisions, and, by way of
+securing a larger return gift, they declared, in their loud and barking
+voices, that a neighbouring ‘king,’ hearing of white men being upon the
+mountain, had declared war against them for allowing us to pass,—a
+campaign that may terminate in the loss of a goat. They promised to hunt
+the neighbourhood for ‘bush-beef’[88] and to supply us with meat, but we
+could not place faith in their words.
+
+The Krumen were sent under Black Will to bring up the remainder of our
+stores from Victoria on the 6th of January, and four days later M. Mann,
+with ten others, took with him sixteen dollars, cloth, and matchets, to
+tempt the people to sell stock. He was accompanied by the Judge, who had
+reasons for wishing to reach Fernando Po before the next mail departure,
+and who, though the only sound man amongst four sick, found his position
+the reverse of pleasant. He took with him King Eyo, whose departure was
+a relief; the little rascal’s extreme idleness was really painful to
+contemplate. A manchila was rigged up for the invalid, but the shaking
+and jolting of the inexperienced bearers soon rendered it unendurable.
+The travellers left at 10 A.M., and with great difficulty reached
+Victoria that night. Their men shirked as usual, lagged behind, and,
+when urged on with the stick, threatened to desert.
+
+On the 13th of January, Mr. Smith still remaining unwell, Mr. Saker set
+out with four Krumen to effect his ascent. Starting at 7·30 A.M., he
+made for Mount Isabel, and boiled thermometers. After halting there two
+hours, he entered upon Lava Bed No. 3, and, warned by Judge Calvo’s and
+M. Mann’s experience, followed its eastern side. Another two hours
+placed him at the foot of a small grassy cone, which he named Mount
+Arthur, and he camped in the rim or hollow; round the base were blocks
+of lava, rising eight or ten feet from a bed in front and forming a kind
+of shelter. The night was most enjoyable, the mercury at dawn showing
+33° Fah.
+
+On the next day Mr. Saker left his camp at 6 A.M. and ascended the long
+south-eastern ridge, where lava-lumps and stunted tufts of grass
+afforded a superior footing. After three hours and ten minutes of hard
+climbing, the party stood on Mount Victoria, about 150 feet below the
+highest summit. The day was favourable and windless. A single B. P.
+observation was made, 188° (Fah.), temperature 59°. As will presently
+appear, much importance cannot be attached to this, the first of
+observations. Water cannot be overboiled, but it is fair to suspect the
+lower estimate of underboiling. The descent of the cone occupied him one
+hour and a half. He left his camp at 2·10 P.M. on the same day, and
+reached us a little before dark. Mr. Smith had already commenced the
+descent; on the next day he was followed by Mr. Saker. After ten hours
+of actual walking they arrived without accident at their home.
+
+The following is the only account of this third ascent which has yet
+appeared; it was first printed in some missionary paper, and bore date
+10th February, 1862:—
+
+‘In company with M. Mann and Mr. Consul Burton we reached an elevation
+of pure air, and stayed there some days. After a careful survey of the
+high region where we were encamped, I left to explore the peak, and
+ascended from the south side. During my absence M. Mann had ascended the
+north side, and Consul Burton had attempted the west face.[89] After a
+day’s weary toil over beds of lava, we reached the foot of a small mount
+somewhat sheltering to weary travellers. There I spread my blanket and
+passed the night. It was a glorious evening, but somewhat cold; at early
+dawn I found the glass at 31° Fah. But the sun rose: a cloudless
+morning, and it soon grew warm. At 6 A.M. I began the ascent, and at 10
+reached the southern summit or ridge. By this time it was very warm, and
+the wind that sweeps so fearfully in these regions seemed hushed, and
+light, fleecy clouds ever and anon shut in the surrounding scenery.
+Towards the east I saw a range of mountains that I had never before
+observed, and took their bearings, but the attempt to secure the angles
+of summit towards the west was not so successful; as, ere I could bring
+two points together, one would be obscured. At this point I found the
+water boil at 188°, thermometer 58°. This gives an elevation nearly the
+same as our charts give it from trigonometrical survey below. My attempt
+to explore the crater was a failure; the whole was enshrouded in cloud.
+The crater must be of enormous extent; the two most prominent peaks we
+named Victoria and Albert (little did we think then, in December, that
+the nation and our beloved Sovereign were then being plunged into
+irreparable grief); and those peaks present a large angle at seven
+miles’ distance. I regret I did not previously take it, and my failure
+to take angles leaves me in much ignorance of what I wished to
+ascertain. After a long delay I began the descent, and at _two_ reached
+my nightly place, and after rest and refreshment set out on return to
+our camp. Here I found the Consul a little better, but still unable to
+walk much. As I had stayed on this second run up the mountains ten days,
+I was compelled to leave for this place and for Cameroons.
+
+‘It is only needful to mention here that in those visits to the highest
+regions we have ascertained that there are now native towns at about
+3500 feet elevation, that cultivation extends but little further, and
+that beyond these heights there is every inducement to seek a temporary
+home for invalids and wearied missionaries.’
+
+
+[Footnote 80: A popular Spanish phrase for home-sickness, from which the
+soldiers at Fernando Po suffer severely. The idea is that the shoulder-
+blade falls and the arm loses strength. The remedy is very Oriental; I
+have seen it at El Medinah. The patient lies upon the ground, a friend
+walks over and tramples upon him, and he recovers.]
+
+[Footnote 81: In the East hidden treasures consist of gold and jewels,
+and the magical methods by which they are brought to light are applied
+to milk by the pastoral Somal and the Irish, and to cotton cloth and
+copper-rods by the trading West Africans. The only explanation to the
+natives of our ascending the mountain was the existence of these
+treasures.]
+
+[Footnote 82: See Appendix IV.]
+
+[Footnote 83: Even at Fernando Po I find a stove absolutely necessary in
+mornings and evenings for health and comfort; but it is only the old
+African who thinks of so apparently unnatural a procedure.]
+
+[Footnote 84: The reader will find this explained in Appendix II.]
+
+[Footnote 85: On the 1st February M. Mann, when collecting plants
+sheltered in a hollow from the strong wind, had a similar rencontre. ‘I
+suddenly,’ he says, ‘observed a native close by, who, without seeing me,
+had unwittingly dropped upon me. When I addressed him he stretched out
+his hand, and after a few minutes pronounced the word “tobacco.” I
+called to him to come nearer, which he was unwilling to do, and when I
+went towards him I saw that he trembled with fright. He was a head
+taller than I, and nearly twice as stout, without any clothes except a
+small piece of thin cloth about his loins: he had arms and a cutlass. I
+made him understand that he should bring me a hyæna and a gazelle, which
+he promised, and slowly went away, looking back as though afraid that I
+should lay hands upon him.’]
+
+[Footnote 86: In this region the temperate zone, botanically speaking,
+would extend from 5000 feet to the summit. In more northerly mountains,
+Etna for instance, the zones are usually reckoned to be five, viz.
+lowland or cultivated, wooded, shrubby, grassy, and of cryptogams. For
+sanitarial purposes the torrid would extend from the shore to 1500 feet
+above sea-level, the temperate from 1500 to 7000 feet, and the frigid to
+the top.]
+
+[Footnote 87: This is about double the true figure, 13 geographical
+miles. I made a practice of asking each member of the expedition his
+estimate of every march, registered the lowest, and found on comparing
+it with actual measurement by the cord that it was usually twice too
+long. When instruments are not used this must ever be expected. But it
+is no objection to the general credibility of a book if its 300 miles of
+distance are reduced to 120. This sounds like a truism: apparently,
+however, it is not generally acknowledged to be true.]
+
+[Footnote 88: Formerly there were wild cattle upon the Peak of Fernando
+Po; but they were probably let loose there by Spaniards in the last
+century. We heard of none on Camaroons Mountain.]
+
+[Footnote 89: Mr. Saker knew perfectly the facts of the case, which he
+here ‘pretty considerably’ misstates.]
+
+
+
+
+                               CHAPTER V.
+
+                           THE FINAL ASCENT.
+
+
+In the lower regions the ‘smokes,’ or hazy season, last from early
+December to the end of January, and they seem gradually extending up the
+mountain. On the 12th January the clouds rose for the first time
+overhead. On the 19th, after a still, clear morning, the mist settled
+upon us, and a few heavy drops, heralded by the smell of rain mixing
+with the nutty odour of the forest, fell at 4·30 P.M., and between 5 and
+6 P.M. Then a double bank of clouds, lightning cumuli, with flesh-tint
+lights and steely-blue shades upon a grey ground, forging up
+portentously from the S.E. to the zenith, showed us for the first time a
+mountain storm.
+
+On beginning, the thunder growled as usual far below our feet;
+frequently it seemed to ascend, and the low continuous rumbling of the
+distance was broken by rattling peals, seemingly around us. The
+lightning flashed bright from N. to S., veering to the S.W., and lastly
+to the N.W.; it was mostly globular, shooting like Roman-candles through
+the lower air, whilst in places a web-work of vivid zigzag flame played,
+darting into groups, over the mountain and the dwarf crater near us. The
+wind, at this time usually northerly, blew heavily from the west, and
+the storm once more worked round to the S.E., with occasional
+coruscations from the N.W. and due N. Little Camaroons appeared to be
+the centre of attraction; the head was covered with a thick cap of
+cumuli, dense and grandiose, that moved gradually eastward. As the loud
+thunder died away in the several gradations of distance—sheet-lightning
+still appeared in the north—a cold wind set in from the east, and,
+freshening to a gale, brought with it an hour’s heavy rain from the
+tumultuous rollers around. After two hours of atmospheric commotion all
+was again quiet, and a clear moonlit night induced sound sleep.
+
+The savage appearance of the lightning upon these Acroceraunian Hills
+made me guard against possible accidents, by planting upon the southern
+lip of Earthwork Crater directly above our camp a young tree with a
+matchet lashed to the top. It was ‘strong medicine’ to the dejected
+Krumen, who disliked the appearance of fire-globes shooting across the
+path at least as much as their master did. Our rude _paratonnère_,
+however, was not struck, although it had the best of opportunities.
+
+The 22nd January was to me a _dies mirabilis_. At 8·30 A.M. there was
+another bad storm, lightning volleying, and thunder cracking and pealing
+in unpleasant proximity. The phenomenon wore the usual aspect of
+Tornado,—the Turner: beginning in the N.W., it veered round through the
+S.E., and returned to its original direction, often dying away and
+presently resuscitating. At 10 A.M. a high north-easterly gale brought
+with it large scattered gouts, which presently thickened to a close
+shower. I was afterwards informed that those below saw the north-eastern
+flank of Pico Grande sheeted with snow.
+
+At noon the weather had improved, and the tonic of oxygen developed by
+the storm enabled me to leave my leafy bower, after nearly four weeks of
+not unpleasant prison. Selim reported that Fernando Po was in sight for
+the first time. I crept a few yards along the south-western slope of
+Earthwork Crater, and, armed with sketching materials, sighted a
+peculiar view. The mists, at first thickly rising from the south-west,
+thinned out and floated northwards. They met and tussled, wearying
+themselves in the fray, now rendering everything invisible beyond ten
+yards, then opening out a prospect of twenty miles. At length the sickly
+sun became victorious. The horizon seemed raised high above its proper
+place, and in the dark grey abyss below purple-grey masses of cloud
+floated over a sea undistinguishable from the misty sky, whilst on the
+extreme line of sight rose Fernando Po, a ghastly form, like one of
+Ossian’s favourite mountains. The Peak, which was apparently double,
+bore 229° 15′ (M.), and Clarence, or Sta. Isabel, a darker dot at the
+base, was 225°.
+
+The change of air and scene worked miracles for me: the next day and the
+next saw me on foot in picnicking guise, attended by my factotum and two
+Kruboys, laying down a base to check the distance of Mount Helen, and
+sketching the several craters that lay upon our line of ascent.
+
+At 1·30 P.M. on the 25th of January, M. Mann returned with three Krumen;
+he had made a gallant march, having left Victoria but yesterday morning.
+His health had been restored by a diet of iron-rust burned in brandy or
+rum, and cold arrowroot tempered with chalk,[90] the prescription of the
+good Mr. Johnson. The traveller had procured little in the way of
+provision, only forty kokos were forthcoming: for his scarlet blanket he
+had been offered, in ascending series, a pig, a fat goat, a small boy,
+and a large girl; but he could not afford to part with it.
+
+The next day was one of rest. M. Mann botanized in the woody region, and
+I visited some caves which the Judge had reported to be three miles off;
+actual measurement placed them at 3400 feet. It was a beautiful morning
+after a stormy night and a misty dawn; clouds like a congeries of white
+balloons lay against the blue empyrean, and caught the radiance of the
+golden shower from the east. The path lay to the west, along Earthwork
+Crater; and presently it plunged into a perfumed wood spangled with the
+yellow marigolds of the senecio, the pretty heath _Blæria spicata_, one
+of the seventeen plants already found to be absolutely peculiar to
+Abyssinia and Fernando Po, a red and yellow seed-casting impatiens,[91]
+somewhat like a ‘lady’s slipper,’ and a honeysuckle-like plant unknown
+to the herbalist. A clearing in the forest showed us a hunter’s old hut,
+with evidence of modern tenure; and a little beyond it we found, in a
+hollow tree, a deserted bee-hive. Presently we saw the caves: two holes
+under a heap of lava, in a little barranca, a segment of one of those
+arched tunnels or galleries found under lava currents in Iceland,
+Bourbon, and elsewhere. The direction of the larger is from N. to S.,
+and the dimensions are 24 feet long by 7 broad, and 2½ high. Water
+deeply deposited in the soil trickles into it from above; the drops fall
+with a ceaseless tinkle upon a slimy floor, into which the water
+apparently sinks, and thus—perhaps a Cueva de Yelo may eventually be
+found—it may become useful to settlers.
+
+Monday, the 27th January—exactly a month from the day of my accident—was
+appointed for our final ascent, and for the ceremony of taking
+possession. The party consisted of M. Mann and myself, Selim and half a
+dozen Krumen carrying water, provisions, and sleeping tackle. We started
+at seven o’clock on a fine clear morning, soon emerged from the weald,
+and sighted, beyond the ascending foreground of dry white clover,
+spangled with gentian, dwarf heaths, little white bells (a
+Wahlenbergia?), and a sechorium not unlike the wild aster of the Western
+Prairies, Mount Helen, our Carmel. From that point we pursued a more
+direct course than we had yet made, passed to the left of Mount Selim,
+and after a short tough pull we reached the first nighting place, a deep
+grassy hollow in the northern counterslope of Mount Isabel. The Krumen
+straggled in long afterwards, pretending that they had missed the way:
+as they had not turned a hair, it is more probable that they had sat
+down and anathematized us in some quiet corner.
+
+On the topmost lip of Mount Isabel we now lingered long to enjoy the
+view behind us, which, though not so grand, was fully as peculiar as
+that before us. Use, which lessens marvel, now enabled us to keep our
+eyes off the Pico Grande. The southern horizon was a broken line of
+numerous cones, each grisly with its own crater, some acute hills,
+others truncated hillocks—the smallest thing of the lot was named Mount
+‘Wood’—all gashed and broken in every direction, mostly grassy, but in
+some places showing tufts and scatters of trees in their hollows on
+their lee side: and they rose from a manner of plain, whose crevasses
+showed it to be an old bed of degraded lava. After sketching this
+subrange of the main line, we ascended Mount Isabel, and found another
+‘vacuity obscure,’ whose north-western rim formed an excellent position
+for a surveying pole: here we took a round of angles. On the north the
+main spiracle of the great central fire rose splendid, steely blue and
+sun-gilt; the strong east wind, sweeping the right side, kept clear the
+deep azure against which its form stood sharply out. On the west of the
+cone, the mist clouds,[92] gathering thick and heavy, melting away, but,
+immediately renewed, as if spread by the hands of genii, formed by their
+lightness and mobility a charming contrast with the fixed gigantesque
+forms below.
+
+Long before sunset we were forced to vacate our eyrie, which was nearly
+the height of Fernando Po Peak. The thermometer showed only 45°, but the
+cold dry gusts cut our hands. We retired before dark to our more genial
+resting-place, where food and fire, and waterproofs, and hanging rocks
+of basalt and conglomerate helped us through the evening and the dreary
+night. From Mount Helen to Mount Isabel the tape showed 8648 feet, and
+the total distance from camp was 16,462 feet. The crater in which we
+slept was 10,187 feet, and the summit 10,590 feet above sea-level.
+
+The next morning broke red, dull, and raw, with a high and gusty east
+wind, which was an inducement to activity. At 7·30 A.M., after passing
+the Gateway, we crossed Lava Bed No. 3 to a grassy crater, which Mr.
+Saker had named Mount Leopold. We walked along its side, and then
+resumed the passage of the stream of extinguished fire till we reached
+the eastern base of a similar formation, Arthur Crater. As experience on
+Mount Etna, at Madeira, and at other places proves, decomposed lava
+makes a fruitful soil; it is, however, of slow growth, rarely attaining
+any depth before 2000 years.[93] Altitude and latitude would greatly
+modify calculations; excessive humidity and fierce sunshine would, of
+course, accelerate the operation. In the dry atmosphere of Tenerife,
+above the lower clouds there is little decay. The black cascades of
+stones on the more northern Peak, though probably outpoured before the
+age of man, appear to be the exudations of yesterday: the contrary must
+be the case here. This bed, then, must be very modern; in the artery,
+green with small mosses, and in the sheltered nooks and clefts were
+found stunted ferns, thyme, a lovely red mint, large yellow immortelles,
+and the delicate blue _Veronica Mannii_.
+
+Not feeling disposed to tempt the cold hollow under Mount Hooker, where
+Messrs. Calvo and Mann had passed the night, we left this lava-bed and
+turned to the right, rounding the eastern selvage of Mount Arthur, which
+in this direction is greatly elongated. We then crossed another lava-
+stream, which encircles the cone, and anastomozes with No. 3: it is
+composed of a soft green artery, rather more rugged than the former, and
+a hard black vein. The unlovely surface was lit up with the red bloom of
+the viscid _Blæria spicata_, and a chrysanthemum (?) with large golden
+flowers and long glaucous leaves doubled with silvery white. The chief
+arborescent plants were the leucothoë and monica, which attained a
+height of twenty feet, but grew only in sheltered bottoms. There was a
+beautiful gorse-like cytisus,[94] covered with yellow bloom, or short
+black pods: it brought to mind the old lines:
+
+
+            Non me pascente capellæ,
+
+  Florentem cytisum et salices carpetis amaras.
+
+
+Here it is a stiff, round-topped tree, not more than six feet high; the
+last shrub found in the midst of the main cone had been dwarfed to six
+inches. The hypericum also occurred only as a shrub, not taller than
+eight feet.
+
+After a two hours’ march, during which we had accomplished 6937 feet,
+‘Black Beggar,’ who had accompanied Mr. Saker, pointed out to us a kind
+of form in which the reverend gentleman had passed the night: we called
+it Saker’s Camp. The position is a natural fosse between the slope of
+Mount Arthur, which defends it from the angry north-easter, and the last
+traversed lava-bed, which can supply a modicum of fuel. By B. P.
+thermometer the height proved to be 10,595 above sea-level, about the
+altitude of Mount Isabel’s summit, and five hundred feet more elevated
+than Mount Etna.
+
+The main cone rose temptingly near; we breakfasted hurriedly, and,
+sending back three Krumen for water and other stores, we set out at 11
+A.M. towards the south-eastern ridge of Victoria Mountain. Forty-five
+minutes of stumbling over the rough lava placed us at the base of the
+mighty spiracle, and in the depression forming a grassy rim round the
+foundation we boiled the thermometer, and found that it showed 10,530
+feet. We then impatiently resumed the path, thinking that, as the Pico
+of Tenerife is not three geographical miles in circumference, we might
+easily encompass the head of Camaroons, and obtain a view of a new
+country towards the north. M. Mann pressed forwards from S.E. to E., and
+through a gap in the clouds now fast rolling up the side he caught sight
+of the lower platform, which he described as a ridge trending to the
+N.E., and looking like a plain patched with white and dark green. I
+espied a way northwards towards a dark chasm which afterwards proved to
+be the mouth of Victoria Crater. Selim and Seabreeze had remained in
+rear packing up the B. P. We were now scattered, and hallooing was of no
+avail.
+
+After making another tack, and walking over a true Mal Passo of lava
+ridge and loose scoriæ, I reached Victoria Crater at 2 P.M., and sat
+down to await the gathering of the party, which would inevitably be
+attracted by the aspect of the spot. The position upon the highest crest
+reminded me of the Chinese poet who celebrated the cataract of Leu
+Shan:—
+
+
+  I am like a white bird among the clouds;
+
+  I insult the winds and invade the profound abyss.
+
+
+Northwards was the dividing ridge separating Victoria from Albert
+Crater. Southwards the former was burst by an eruption of once fiery
+matter, whose greenish course ‘like a river manifold’ swept down the
+cone’s side towards the wooded region below. The site was broken and
+uneven, cumbered with huge _débris_, and at the point of efflux stood a
+‘Lot’s Wife,’ a solitary pillar of honeycombed black basalt conspicuous
+from the camp below. At 3 P.M. we met in the crater, and after remaining
+for some time in the mist—unhappily I had no hygrometer—we hastened down
+the south-western slope, reached the foot of Mount Milnes at 4 P.M., and
+after another hour found ourselves in camp.
+
+Over-eagerness had spoilt this day’s work. M. Mann had found the eastern
+side more interesting than the western; it was more or less covered with
+vegetation up to the crater, though completely exposed to the north-east
+wind. He brought a few shrubs, ericanella, cytisus, the helichrysum, a
+senecio which he was kind enough to name _S. Burtoni_, an anthospermum,
+and a ‘petty rerect lycopodium,’ whose flowers, red in the lower
+regions, here became a light pink. I added to my collection only some
+specimens of the coarse quartzose stone before seen in Victoria
+Mountains. We had both seen traces of deer, which seem to visit the
+highest regions; but our guns had not once occasion to break the
+silence.
+
+The night was raw, the clouds threatening; and although the hill-
+shoulder defended us from the cutting squalls, the hoar-frost bit our
+hands and faces. At 2 P.M. the thermometer showed 37° (Fah.), and the
+aspect was that of a thunderstorm, which, combined with snow, would not
+have been pleasant to hutless men. Towards morning a gradual improvement
+took place, and we enjoyed a wonderful dawn. The tall black Piton,
+partially white, and powdered with congealed dew, rose sharply in the
+dull morning air with a peculiarly ghostly effect. The atmosphere
+kindled with a beautiful glow, soon quenching the stars and widening the
+horizon, which half an hour before seemed to be closing upon us. Then a
+flood of ruddy light poured over the eastern side of the Mount of
+Heaven, leaving the other still cold and grey, and lastly the large red
+sun arose, bringing in his train a bevy of rushing white clouds. The
+appearance was that of a dry day, for which we had reason to be
+grateful.
+
+We started early. M. Mann had agreed to ascend Victoria Mountain by the
+long south-eastern ridge, which forms a natural road. I undertook the
+steely-blue slope of burnt scoriæ between Victoria and Albert Mountains:
+all had deemed the passage not feasible, but ‘_è impossibile,
+signorino_’ had in early youth sent me over the crumbling natural arch
+at Sorrento. After an hour’s slow walking we—factotum Selim and three
+Kruboys—had crossed at 8 A.M. the 4000 feet of broken lava and rugged
+ground separating us from Mount Milnes. Here we halted for breakfast,
+lit our fire, and leisurely prepared for work. A measurement from the
+base to the apex of Victoria Mountain gave 3300 feet along the slope,
+not quite the dimensions of Stromboli; the perpendicular height by B. P.
+was 2166 feet.[95]
+
+After forty-five minutes we resumed our march, working towards the
+‘Half-way Rocks’ that rose from the slope of Victoria Mountain. Here,
+after measuring a base, I halted to impress upon my mind the features of
+the wild scene. Looking southwards no great extent of country was
+visible from this point, and the breadth of the plateau shut out the sea
+from sight: the atmosphere, however, was so clear that all the minutiæ
+of scenery rose vivid and distinct. There was a perfect view of the
+first or loftiest range—a Puy de Dôme highly magnified, and the vast
+torrent of black lava surging and re-surging, winding, dividing, and
+joining again between and around a ‘_plaine bombée_’ of cinder cones and
+vent-hills, tall and short, naked and grass-clothed, perfect and
+truncated, buttressing ridges, pit-craters, high flues, chimney-pots and
+mamelons, Monteneros, Maladettas, Campi Phlegræi and clinker-fields—in
+fact a compilation of volcanoes the slow growth of countless ages, that
+fell off in long perspective towards the horizon, appeared for the first
+time to flow from, not towards, my feet. The shape of the ‘Katakaumen’
+before us seemed to be an immense Plutonic triangle whose apex was the
+majestic Mount Isabel—in this direction it appeared pierced with many a
+crater—which here completely shut out the view of the sub-ranges. On the
+right, or westward, was a ledge, with a clean cut, as if made by the
+hand of man, and beyond it nothing showed but clouds surging up from the
+void below, giving it the appearance of resting on air. On the left
+Mount Eliza and the Three Sisters proved themselves by blurred outline
+and green tinge a connecting link between the Mal Pais and the Regione
+Culta of the lesser altitudes. The further distance exposed undulations
+of the fire torrent, rivers of black and green lava, and plains, here
+black and bare, there untouched by oxidating influence, there tawny with
+shrubs, mosses, and lichens, which flourish in 70° N. lat. in Europe.
+The immediate foreground was worthy of the rest,—a rapid slope of black
+scoriæ, loose, finely powdered, reeking in the fiery sun, exposing under
+every footstep an under-crust of greyish ashes, and in rare places held
+together by a block of lava or a bunch of lichens.
+
+Viewed from this point the whole platform ground between Mount Isabel
+and the Pico Grande resembles the vast and far older ‘Crater of
+Elevation’—according to the _soulèvement_ theory of the great
+‘upheavalists’ Baron von Buch and M. Elie de Beaumont, or submarine
+according to Mr. Jukes—eight miles in diameter, with walls like giant
+mountain ranges, and 7000 feet above sea-level, which characterizes the
+Pico do Teyde. If such be the case, the central cone or crater of
+eruption does not stand in the midst of the ‘cirque,’ but has last
+broken out at the northern edge of the plateau. Thus the present Peak
+would be the Vesuvian as opposed to the ancient Monte Somma cone.
+
+After Half-Way Rocks it was necessary to cross the blue slide of
+comminuted scoriæ stretching between Victoria and Albert mountains; and
+this was done by treading on the edges of our feet, at times
+condescending to crawl when the mass under us appeared, from its
+extremity of steepness, likely to slide down to the base. This occupied
+but a few minutes, and we all reached in safety the slope of Albert
+Mountain, where a tolerably regular ridge-line of blocks and boulders
+formed stepping-stones, and pointed out a stable path to the summit of
+the Ash cone. Having measured a second base, we began the ascent
+seriously. Again I noticed the utter absence of all suffering from the
+subtilty of the air. The height is considerable, though not sufficient
+of course to cause the effusion of blood which according to Humboldt
+burst from his ears and lips on the Andes, or the sufferings of M. Gay-
+Lussac in his balloon. The effects of sudden change from an equatorial
+climate to an altitude which showed many of the features of Hecla, were
+however mitigated probably by the high east wind. In half an hour after
+leaving Half-Way Rocks I sat down upon the terrepleine to await the
+arrival of the Krumen.
+
+The Regione Deserta had a wild and weird aspect. Due north of the
+boulder upon which I reposed rose a V-shaped dyke of close-textured grey
+stone, apparently a jaspidified or altered schist, piled in cyclopean
+blocks, as large as the Titanic stones in the unfinished quarries of
+Baalbak, to the height of about twenty-five feet above ground. It
+separated like a wall Victoria from Albert Crater; the longer or western
+arm descended from the high rim of the latter, and the shorter bordered
+the margin of the former. When the party reassembled our first visit was
+to a smaller ‘_caldera_,’ which when seen from below looked like a chink
+or gash in the neck of the cone, whose apex is the wall behind Albert
+Crater. This escape-valve by which the ‘topping process’ was effected,
+was found to be a deep and precipitous cavity opening southwards, and
+separated from its E.N.E. neighbour, Albert Crater, by a thin rugged
+wall of black trachyte. The next visit was to Albert Crater, a bowl
+about 1000 feet in circumference, and whose greatest depth, viewed from
+the S.E., is fifty yards: it also discharged to the south, and on the
+N.E. and E. it is bounded by the V-shaped dyke before alluded to. The
+form is a regular inverted cone, with a slope varying from 45° to
+perpendicularity: the colours are red, white, and yellow where stone
+occupies the surface, a deep metallic blue shows the slides of scoriæ,
+and the sole is a floor of lamp-black. The north-western wall rises high
+above the lower rim of the bowl, and when the eye is acquainted with the
+details of the scene, it easily distinguishes from below this hog-shaped
+back which is the loftiest portion of the Camaroons Mountain. Albert
+Crater is at first view recognized as a more modern formation than
+Victoria: whilst the latter, though exposed to the furious N.E. wind,
+which everywhere renders vegetation poorer and scantier, has an abundant
+growth of cryptogams, the former is almost bare. As in Stromboli, the
+main axis of the cone’s ellipse appears to have been shifted, here,
+however, the mountain has grown by subsequent eruptions, not by
+accumulated ejections upon the north-eastern flank.
+
+Meanwhile M. Mann had ascended this ‘Furnster Punkte,’ and found to his
+regret one of the self-registering thermometers hanging only on one
+hook, with the bulb uppermost. The wind had broken down the frail stand,
+and thus the result of a month was lost. The spirit also had changed
+from the usual red to a pale straw-yellow. Having re-arranged it and
+enjoyed a good view of the unvisited mountain-chain to the N.E., he met
+us below. We turned to the E.S.E. and ascended the tufty slope leading
+to the head of Victoria Mountain. The distance was short, and we
+presently gazed into the depths where brooded
+
+
+  Nox omnibus nigrior densiorque.
+
+
+Having thus reached our goal, Selim hoisted on the ‘very lip of the
+volcanic lion’ the Union Jack, and our last bottle of champagne was
+emptied in honour of the day. As a token of our visit we left a slip of
+sheet-lead upon which our names were roughly cut, and two sixpences in
+an empty bottle—rather a bright idea, not emanating from my pericranium.
+Mongo ma Loba, Theon Ochema is now ours. The B. P. showed Victoria
+Mountain to be 12,700 feet above sea-level.[96]
+
+After the ceremony we separated. M. Mann determined to return to camp,
+collecting specimens on the way. I was by no means satisfied with what
+had been done, and still felt that restlessness with which the good
+Genius should inspire his _protégé_. So, leaving one Kruman to rest, and
+taking with me Selim and Seabreeze, I climbed without difficulty the
+V-shaped dyke which runs up the background of Albert Mountain, narrowing
+and diminishing in height as it ascends. Then striking due north, we
+fell into a kind of depression between the outer walls of the two
+craters, a short, smooth valley of scoriæ, scantily dotted with stunted
+herbage, and with dun-coloured butterflies, whose ill-fated bodies the
+violent oblique wind had urged up from below. I have read of such things
+in ascents of Mont Blanc; Richard Lander found these lepidopters
+exceptionally numerous in the Nigerian regions; and in the ‘Elevation
+Crater,’ Tenerife, Mr. Piazzi Smyth found drowned butterflies
+(_Polyommatus Webbianus_) like floating spots of purple in a little
+pool. A walk of about a quarter of a mile placed us at the further end
+of the gorge; the cold mist-clouds had cleared away, and the unknown
+land lay before me like a mappamondo. I felt as joyful as if my eyes had
+gazed upon ‘all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them.’ An
+inverted arch of volcanic substance formed our foreground; on the right
+it was striated with lines of green; on the left the slope showed barren
+strata, hardly tinged with verdure. Over the key of the arch, and at the
+base of the Peak upon which we stood, rose a small hillock, a parasite
+showing verdant spots in the dreary waste of brown. Beyond it, on the
+further side of a deep but gradual fall, began the background,
+stretching far to the N.E., from 50° to 75°, bounded by a quoin-shaped
+range of hill bluff to the eastward, and falling, with serrated back, to
+the west. The lowlands at its base were white-yellow with dark streaks,
+like the formation which we had seen looking southwards from Mount
+Isabel, and the extreme distance of the hilly background might have been
+five miles—in these misty regions the near appears far. Such was my
+first glance at the ‘Rumbi Hills;’ they did not, as has been shown,
+appear at all ‘towering in rude and rugged masses, like the tombstones
+of a past earthquake.’[97] The counter-slope northwards was a perfect
+copy of that over which we had passed to ascend the Peak. But Capt. Owen
+saw them from a distance of many miles at sea, and the same phenomenon
+appears to the voyager as he coasts along the Gaboon shores, whilst the
+traveller in the interior finds the mountains assume entirely different
+forms.
+
+Finding an offset to this gorge from the north-west, we resumed our way,
+winding through the hills, and were encouraged to persevere by the sight
+of deep cracks and longitudinal fissures, with corresponding
+indentations in the rock. These evidences, on a small scale, of modern
+volcanic action, which are usually considered the preliminaries to the
+formation of a crater,[98] were from one to two feet broad and from four
+to five feet deep, with a clean cut hardly weathered; they proved,
+however, to be extinct, nor could I detect in them any empyreumatic
+odour. At this place, too, appeared extensive deposits of a fresh lava,
+and curiously ropy filamentous basalt—Mr. Scrope compares it to barley-
+sugar—which appeared at first sight, from its long vesicular grain, to
+be the remains of a fossilized or imperfectly petrified forest. The
+colour was sometimes ochreish by oxidation, more often a dull black with
+the slightest admixture of green. In this form of lava exudation
+Professor Smyth discovered obsidian on the Peak of Tenerife. Somewhat
+disappointed by finding no vapour in the fissures, I crossed them, and,
+bending round to the S.S.E., ascended the slope upon whose crest M. Mann
+had placed his thermometers. It was about half a mile due north of the
+Victoria Mountain, and the B. P. thermometers showed 180°·2 (Fah.),
+temp. 62° = 13,129 feet, or 435 feet higher than Victoria Mountain.[99]
+
+The summit of Camaroons is thus eighteen statute miles of indirect, and
+thirteen geographical miles of direct, distance from Victoria.[100]
+Assuming its altitude in round numbers at 13,000 feet, it is 3000 feet
+higher than Etna, the highest volcano in Europe, and 3300 feet below
+Mont Blanc, the highest European mountain. Situated in 4° N. lat., it is
+3000 feet below the line of perpetual congelation, which, between the
+equator and 10° of N. or S. lat., is usually laid down at 16,000 feet.
+It must be observed that African mountains, like those of North America,
+are stunted in comparison with the gigantic size of the continent, and
+of its other geographical features—rivers, cataracts, lakes, and
+prairies. The peaks of Abyssinia, once so grossly exaggerated, have been
+reduced to 13,000 feet; and Miltsin, the loftiest of the Atlas, is now
+assumed at 11,400. According to those who distribute mountains into ten
+classes according to their heights—25,000 to 30,000 feet being No. 1,
+and 1000 to 3000 being No. 10—Camaroons Mountain occupies the sixth
+place, viz. those ranging from 12,000 to 14,000, as the Peak of Tenerife
+(12,180), the Jungfrau (13,730), and Ophir in Sumatra (13,840). Finally
+its phase is paroxysmal, neither permanently eruptive nor in a condition
+of moderate activity.
+
+Meanwhile Selim continued his course to the N.E., attracted by the
+glaring colours of the neighbourhood, a tricolor of white, red, and
+yellow, disposed in streaks along the perpendicular faces of dwarf
+cliffs, and conspicuous in the brown and russet hues of its entourage.
+As my B. P. observation was ended, he appeared in hot haste, as he had
+seen something which justified even our risking a night, without any to
+assist in ‘a finding,’ in the open. Hurriedly I descended the chasm,
+climbed up the gay-tinted cliffs, and, turning a little eastward,
+emerged upon a Solfatara in full action.
+
+The site is on the northern counterslope of the high wall above Albert
+Crater—unfortunately the B. P. apparatus struck work for want of
+candle—a few feet below the summit, and in sight of the lower regions to
+the N.E. The surface of the _soufrière_ is a convexity striated with
+alternate bands of bright green moss, white lime, and sulphurous marl,
+red and yellow. It was soft and yielding to the tread, and regular lines
+of smoke-jets and puffs rose in rings and curls from the stripes,
+somewhat like the Steamboat Springs in the Californian Sierra Nevada, or
+the vapour from the ‘narix’ of the Pico de Teyde. The flues smelled
+strongly of sulphur, and, though the wind blew cold and hard from the
+north-east, the thermometer, raised four feet above the ground, showed
+52°, and many small birds, attracted by the genial heat, were hopping
+upon the green ground.[101] When there is much moisture in the
+atmosphere the vapour must raise its fitful breaths in considerable
+volumes, and perhaps exhibit at night flashes of lambent flame.
+
+Here, then, was a discovery. Camaroons Mountain is so far _banale_ that
+it follows the rule of other volcanoes in action, and rises in immediate
+proximity to the sea. On the other hand, it has the high distinction of
+being the only mountain on the body of the great continent whose fires
+have not wholly been extinguished, which still
+
+
+  Spirat inexhaustum flagranti pectore sulphur.
+
+
+Nor is there any cause to doubt that it will in some future time break
+out again. Though it lacks its pristine vigour of destructiveness, the
+vital principle is not extinct. It knows as yet none of those varieties
+of form and character which denote permanently-burnt out, or even of
+temporarily-quiescent volcanoes.[102]
+
+This Burning Field, with its escapes of volcanic breath, explains many a
+doubtful point. ‘From the present condition of the mountain’s surface,’
+says Capt. W. Allen,[103] writing in 1842, ‘it must have been for ages
+in a condition of repose, though there is reason to think it sometimes
+betrays its latent fires. Mr. Lilley, a trader who resides near the
+Camaroons River, says that he has seen flames near the summit. This
+might have been accounted for by the practice of the natives, who set
+fire to the grass in the dry season for the purpose of catching wild
+animals; but several of the principal natives of Bimbia declare that,
+about the year 1838, “fire came out of the ground.” They said “God made
+it,” in contradistinction from that caused by the burning of the
+grass.[104] They all saw it, and at Mongo they felt the earth shake like
+a steamboat. The people feared that it would kill them all.’
+
+Africa suffers sadly from want of all classic associations; like
+America, she is yet sadly prosaic. No poet has sung the glories of this
+‘pillared prop of heaven;’ no Proserpine has wandered over the Ennian
+fields below; Vulcan has no temple here, where he and his associates—
+
+
+  Brontesque Steropesque et nudus arma Pyracmon,—
+
+
+are revered by man; no Ennosigæus shakes earth with infernal force; no
+Enceladus confined by Jupiter
+
+
+  Interdum scopulos avulsaque viscera montis,
+
+  Erigit eructans, liquefactaque saxa sub auras,
+
+  Cum gemitu glomerat fundoque exæstuat imo.
+
+
+Neither Plato nor Pliny ever visited our grand volcano, and the ‘fears
+and reverence of ages’ have yet to be expressed. It is not, however,
+wholly barbarous, having an antiquity of its own; and it is something
+for us to boast that we have carried out a discovery, initiated, I
+believe, by Hanno the Carthaginian in B.C. 600, and neglected until the
+present day.
+
+The following are the words of the Periplus (chap. xvi.):—Τέτταρας
+δ’ἡμέρας φερόμενοι, νυκτὸς τὴν γῆν ἀφεωρῶμεν φλογὸς μεστήν. Ἐν μέσῳ δ’ἦν
+ἠλιβατόν τι πῦρ τῶν ἄλλων μεῖζον ἁπτόμενον, ὡς ἐδόκει, τῶν ἄστρων. Τοῦτο
+δ’ἡμέρας ὅρος ἐφαίνετο μέγιστον θεῶν ὄχημα καλούμενον. ‘After a run of
+four days, by night we saw the land full of flame. And in the midst of
+it was a kind of lofty fire, bigger than the rest, touching, it
+appeared, the stars. This by day showed itself a very high mountain,
+called Theon Ochema’—_i.e._ the Vahana, or Vehicle of the Gods. There is
+absolutely no other mountain on the West Coast of Africa between Capes
+Spartel and Good Hope that suits this description, and, despite the
+discrepancy of the distance and the number of days which it occupied,
+the proximity of the Gorilla country determines the spot.
+
+And may not Dante—who, it will be remembered, distinctly described the
+Southern Cross—have borrowed from the Periplus of Hanno? Ulysses when
+tired, as might be expected, of the highly respectable but elderly
+Penelope, set out once more on his travels to become wiser in the wisdom
+of the world, of man’s vices and his virtues. He _passed through the
+Pillars of Hercules_, leaving the morning sun right astern; and made
+wings of his oars for the idle flight, always gaining upon the left:
+_i.e._ he started westward and turned to the south-west. _He beheld all
+the stars of the other pole, while their own was so low that it arose
+not out of the sea-floor_: _i.e._ he was somewhere near the Equator.
+‘Five times,’ he says, ‘the night had arisen underneath the moon, and
+five times fallen, since we put forth upon the great deep, _when we
+descried a dim mountain in the distance which appeared higher to me than
+any I had seen before_.’ We rejoiced, and as soon mourned, for there
+sprung a whirlwind from the new land (our N.E. wind?) and struck the
+foremost frame of our vessel, and
+
+
+  Tre volte il fè girare con tutte l’acque,
+
+   E la quarta levar la poppa in suso,
+
+  E la prora ire in giù come altrui piacque,
+
+   Infin che ’l mar fra sopra noi richiuso.
+
+
+Thus the adventurous explorer found himself in the Place paved with Good
+Intentions, where doubtless he met many of the confraternity of Master
+Shoe-tie.
+
+Before taking final leave of the Solfatara, I sketched the scene
+outstretched in wild magnificence, all desert as the burnt-up moon,
+before us. Below my feet the counterslope fell rapidly, the angle being
+much more abrupt than the slope—hence the difficulty with which Messrs.
+Calvo and Mann had ascended it. On the right, looking to the E.N.E., the
+horizon was a vast conglomeration of peaks, and waves of ground already
+purpling in the obliquer rays of the sun. Beyond, the western end or
+left shoulder of this range, showed a long perspective of mountains
+rising in the distance; but their intervening depths and distances were
+concealed by volumes of fleecy cumulus. At the western foot of the main
+range, and far below the summit, rose a remarkable pyramidal formation,
+with well-defined faces, which M. Mann afterwards called Mount Dorothy.
+The hollow between Pico Grande and this south-western face of the Rumbi
+Mountains justifies Captain Owen’s description: ‘a plain, with several
+conical hills rising abruptly from the surface, and giving to the scene
+a novel and extraordinary appearance.’ And on the extreme left, looking
+to the N.W., and distant about half a mile, yawned a tremendous
+crevasse, or voragine, not unlike that immense ‘_caldera_’ which in fine
+weather appears upon the north-eastern side of Fernando Po Peak, a
+little below the clear ground capping the region of forest. Suboval in
+shape, it seemed to shelve down rapidly, and in places precipitously,
+from the plain in which it was sunk; and clouds issued from the ground
+seething and springing from its dark bosom like the smoke of a
+conflagration. Having now seen three sides of the Pico Grande, I was
+able to make a conjecture touching the local periphery of the
+compilation forming the main cone, which may be assumed to be about
+equal to that of Pico de Teyde, Tenerife.
+
+But the shadows deepening in the livid air warned us away. We hurried
+back to camp: in half an hour we found shelter under the lee of Mount
+Milnes, and at 6 P.M. we were seated before a blazing bivouac-fire,
+where the immediate adhibition of hot porridge and grog effectually
+expelled the cold. M. Mann regretted that his precipitancy had prevented
+his seeing the Solfatara; he promised himself, however, a visit to it on
+the next day, when ascending the mountain to remove his thermometers. He
+probably missed the place, as he says, ‘I visited the chinks[105] to
+ascertain the temperature in them, which I found to be _lower_ than
+outside; no smoke issuing from them.’ It is hardly necessary to say that
+I had collected some of the burning sand and sulphur, of which a
+canister full was forwarded to the Geological Museum in Jermyn Street.
+
+The night was cross and noisy. A furious N.E. wind swept round ‘Arthur’s
+Seat,’ and in its teeth, quaintly-shaped, ever-varying clouds—England,
+flying elephants, sitting children, spectres, saurians, and other
+monsters, vomiting many a flash of lightning—rose from the S.W. invading
+the sky. I had expected to find unusual whiteness and brilliancy in the
+heavenly bodies, to see each star shining like a planet, each planet
+like a little moon; on the contrary, they were exceedingly dim, though
+earth looked painted with Indian ink, and the peak shot up like a
+shadowy silhouette. Presently the umbral mass passed away from above our
+heads, and left exposed a canopy of open indigo-blue and black sky, the
+fittest for the formation of heavy dew. Our night was excited and
+disturbed, despite the soothing influence of ginger and rum. When we
+awoke the thermometer showed 32° 50′ (Fah.), and when we arose 37°. The
+white blankets were stiff, and our darker travelling rugs showed in
+places a thick icy deposit. When it is remembered that our lair was 2500
+feet below the summit, it is clear that rain must on the peak often
+become snow, and that frost must prevail there all the year round.
+
+On the morning of the 30th January we parted. M. Mann returned in light
+marching order to recover his thermometers; I resumed the road to camp,
+and took charge of the Krumen, promising to station some of them in
+readiness for my companion, with requisite necessaries, at our old
+nighting place on Mount Isabel. Setting out at 9 A.M., I occupied two
+hours in crossing little more than a mile;[106] so cutting was the lava-
+bed, and tedious the operation of taping. After breakfasting on Mount
+Isabel we resumed our weary way—the advance on such occasions has its
+pleasures, the return is irksome. I had resolved to make a bend
+eastwards from Mount Helen, and to ascend the various peaks which range
+between that cone and the Three Sisters. But the weather pronounced an
+emphatic—No! Hardly had we passed Mount Selim than the storm from the
+S.W. was upon us: it broke with heavy thunder, drops the size of my
+thumb-nail, a sheet of water when the wind ceased; and lastly, as it
+veered round to the north, with hail the size of buckshot, which made us
+happy to take refuge under a natural grot of basalt.
+
+It was the worst day we had experienced upon the mountains. The surface
+became muddy and soppy, and in the myriad little pits formed between the
+grass tussocks, water stood in ankle-deep puddles. After a truly
+_mauvais pas_ arriving at Mount Helen, and sorely longing for a ‘sketch’
+of ‘something,’ I sought the Kruboys, but did not find them. The
+villains had taken leave from the clerk of the weather, and, privileged
+by the storm, had bolted for camp. Two-Glass was sent to recall them:
+meanwhile, wet—soppy wet,—cold and hungry, I waited vainly for two
+hours, and gave up all hopes of further exploration that day. Hardly,
+however, had we descended half a mile than the sky cleared, the sun
+shone fiery till we perspired, and the face of the country opened with
+beautiful distinctness. But it was now too late. Presently my three
+recreants were found about half way down the hill, stretched luxuriously
+before the hearth of heaven, and probably contrasting their wisdom with
+their master’s stupidity. But ah!—let them laugh who win. After an
+energetic scene, their lighter loads were placed on those who had not
+deserted me, and they were sent back to M. Mann for the night. They
+suffered more severely than I had intended. Not meeting M. Mann, and
+prevented by darkness from returning, they had passed the night without
+fire, and returned in the morning blue as nitrate of silver could have
+made them. They shook the head of contrition when asked—What cheer? and
+promised not to do it again, which promise they will keep until the very
+first opportunity of breaking it.
+
+A hot walk led us to camp: there is nothing more _triste_ than a return
+home in Africa. All was foul with a smell of decayed vegetation, which
+promised no good. Tom Bushman, the fellow in charge, pleaded sore
+feet—he had improved a little hurt till it became serious—for not
+sweeping; and the grass huts unexpectedly leaking, all our belongings
+were as wet as the forest. As more rain rose from the N.E., Selim and I
+lighted a fire. The Krumen sat perseveringly on their ‘hunkers:’ they
+were told—‘no work, no food;’ they were hungry, those inexplicable
+beings! yet all, except Black Beggar, the cook, went to bed supperless
+rather than bring in a few logs of wood.
+
+I was beginning to think that
+
+
+              Satis est requiescere lecto
+
+   Si licet et solito membra levare toro
+
+  Quam juvat immites ventos audire cubantem
+
+   Et——!
+
+
+and to feel for M. Mann, when his voice was heard in camp, which he had
+prudently preferred to the bivouac in the wilderness. He had removed his
+thermometers from Albert Mountain, fixing the maximum temperature 55°,
+the minimum 27°; and at the time of his return 35°. He had also boiled
+his thermometers at the base and on the summit of Mount Hooker, which he
+found to be 10,875 and 11,725—a good check to our altitude-observations
+of the Cone. On the exposed N.E. of that mountain he found only a
+graminea; the sheltered S.W. side, however, was entirely clothed with
+hypericum, ericinella, cytisus, and other shrubs. He had also passed a
+place where water stands for nine months in the year—a rare thing in
+these anhydrous formations where there is an utter absence of
+argillaceous substrata; and he had seen a beautiful white antelope
+pacing leisurely away from him at the distance of sixty or seventy
+yards.
+
+
+[Footnote 90: In the Old Calabar and Camaroons Rivers the boys are fond
+of eating a greyish clay brought up from under the water; I know not
+whether it contains organic remains.]
+
+[Footnote 91: Four species of this herbaceous plant have been found at
+Fernando Po. The Proceedings of the Linnæan Society inform us that it is
+common in the hill regions of tropical Africa, and that only one species
+is known from Abyssinia and one from South Africa.]
+
+[Footnote 92: They must have been upwards of 14,000 feet high.]
+
+[Footnote 93: Observations made on the well-known lava-beds of Mount
+Etna give about 1 inch of soil per century, 8 inches in 450 years, and 1
+foot in 600.]
+
+[Footnote 94: According to the Proceedings of the Linnæan Society, this
+and two other leguminous plants (_Trifolium subrotundum_ and _sinense_)
+found by M. Mann on Fernando Po Peak, are all essentially temperate
+forms growing upon the Canary Islands, but ‘hitherto unknown in tropical
+Africa, and known by one species only in Abyssinia.’]
+
+[Footnote 95: The observation at the base, however, was taken on the
+previous day at the very bottom of the cone, a much lower position than
+the place from which we taped. Stromboli, the type of a permanently
+active volcano, is an elliptical cone of nearly 3000 feet, rising from
+deep water with a crater at the summit, breached upon its weakest side;
+from this vent a plain steeper than the other sides of the mountain runs
+to the sea.]
+
+[Footnote 96: Capt. Owen’s altitude of Camaroons Mountain is 13,760
+feet; Mr. Saker’s (46 feet more), 13,806; mine (641 less) 13,119. Mr.
+Saker’s boiling point at a place 150 feet below the summit was 188°
+(Fah.), temp. 59°. On the summit of Albert Mountain mine showed at
+189°·2, temp. 62°. I prefer my own for this reason: M. Mann made the
+foot of Mount Hooker 10,875 feet, I the base of the Great Peak 10,530
+feet, and taping up the slope found the cone to be 3300 feet long, thus
+rendering 13,800 feet too great an altitude. All, however, are mere
+approximations.]
+
+[Footnote 97: Capt. Owen, vol. ii. chap. xxviii.]
+
+[Footnote 98: Mr. Scrope (‘Volcanoes,’ Longman and Co., 1862) clearly
+explains how these fissures, injected by gas, steam, and lava from
+beneath, burst open at the weak points and thus form the circular or
+elliptical volcanic vent. The expansion and explosion of the pent-up
+steam, when coming in contact with the external air, is like the
+ignition of powder in a gun-barrel. The rocks, which are the walls of
+the fissure, are broken up and yield by the equal pressure on every
+side, and the character of the surface thus becomes approximately
+circular and elliptical where the sides of the fissure offer more
+resistance than its length.]
+
+[Footnote 99: The regular gradation of the altitude observations speaks
+favourably for the correctness of my B. P.]
+
+[Footnote 100: The stages are:—
+
+  1. From Victoria to Bosumbo                               23,420 feet.
+
+  2.  „   Bosumbo to Mapanya                                17,300  „
+
+  3.  „   Mapanya to Ridge Camp                              6,000  „
+
+  4.  „   Ridge Camp to Black Crater                        14,080  „
+
+  5.  „   Black Crater to Spring Camp (Earthwork Crater)     9,594  „
+
+  6.  „   Spring Camp to Mount Helen                         7,814  „
+
+  7.  „   Mount Helen to Mount Isabel                        8,648  „
+
+  8.  „   Mount Isabel to foot of Main Cone                 10,232  „
+
+  9.  „   Foot to summit of Main Cone                        3,300  „
+                                                           -------
+                               Total                       100,392  „
+
+This would be a little upwards of 19 statute miles, but it involves a
+détour to Saker’s Camp.]
+
+[Footnote 101: Similarly on Tenerife the expiration of steam tempers the
+sharpness of the air and attracts a population of swallows, linnets
+(_Fringilla Teydensis_), bees, flies, and spiders: ‘a remarkable little
+colony,’ says Mr. Piazzi Smyth, ‘an oasis of life and activity in the
+midst of an elevated desert of lava.’]
+
+[Footnote 102: Thus Vesuvius in the dormant period between 1139 A.D. and
+1306 A.D. showed chestnut groves and standing pools on the sides and at
+the bottom of the crater. These hanging woods are also to be seen in the
+largest crater of Fernando Po.]
+
+[Footnote 103: Vol. ii. chap. ix.]
+
+[Footnote 104: This accident also often takes place. On the 2nd February
+M. Mann saw the north side of the mountain on fire, and the
+conflagration became extensive.]
+
+[Footnote 105: As has been seen, there were no chinks in the Solfatara.
+M. Mann probably alludes to the deep cracks in the lava-bed, where I had
+vainly sought for vapour.]
+
+[Footnote 106: More exactly, 6937 feet.]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+                         RETURN TO FERNANDO PO.
+
+
+My Christmas holidays were now done, and time was flying fast; the visit
+had been for a fortnight; it had lasted six weeks. After collecting some
+bouquets and pipe-sticks I apportioned the loads to the Krumen, who had
+been limping about camp like dogs on three legs, and looking as wretched
+as Lascars in the snows of London. By way of experiment Selim remarked
+audibly that the lame might stay till well with M. Mann, whilst the
+others returned to ‘Nanny Po.’ The effect was magical. Every back
+straightened; _jarrets tendus_ were the rule; there was a forgotten
+elasticity of gait and movement; one would have said they had been
+‘gingered’ for the occasion. We laughed at them and _with_ them about
+their rascality. The African, whose paralysis of the moral sense seems
+to exceed that of the American, will always enjoy, if you do, the
+detection of a trick.
+
+At 11·50 A.M., on Friday the last of January, 1862, after thirty-nine
+days from the 23rd December comfortably enough spent there, I left
+Spring Camp, and struck due north through the dense wood that flanked
+our late home. Taping delayed us till 3 P.M., and when we reached our
+nighting-place the Krumen had again been busy with the water: they were
+sent back to refill. In the evening I scaled Black Crater, ascertained
+that it was 7328 feet high, and was nearly swept from the summit by the
+furious wind. It afforded, however, a good view of the irregular group,
+the isolated masses above and around, especially Mount Eliza, one of the
+Three Sisters, which at the conjunction of the lava-field from above,
+and the forest clothing the mountain-flanks to the sea, was half above
+and half in the wood, the southern part and the crater being overgrown
+with dense trees. This comparatively open ground to the north would be
+highly advantageous for a settlement. Selim and I then revisited the
+little plain immediately below the volcanic platform, which had
+recommended itself to us as a sanitarium. The sharp wiry tussocks that
+covered the colder regions had here disappeared, and the continuous
+grass carpet promised a more genial temperature. Having visited the
+southern edge of the small plateau, where it bends towards the base of
+Little Camaroons, we retraced our steps with a profounder conviction of
+the capabilities of the spot. On return we found that the Krumen had
+built their fire and had pitched my waterproof tent on the ledge below
+Black Crater, where our first hard night in high latitudes had been
+passed. The wild easterly gale, dashing itself in little whirlwinds
+against the dark cone, and eddying round it in furious gusts, soon saved
+them the trouble of striking; and presently we found below a sheltered
+spot with a few trees, more proper for a bivouac. The bees swarmed,
+probably attracted by the moisture under the cinders and scoriæ. In
+these milder regions they are fiercer than at Spring Camp. ‘Where there
+are bees there is honey,’ says the Asiatic proverb. We sought, however,
+but we did not find.
+
+Shortly after we had turned in the wind fell almost to a calm. Exactly
+at 7·29 P.M. a flash passed through the crystal sky, and we saw a fiery
+ball crossing the heavens from south to north, leaving behind it a brush
+of light like the tail of a comet. Remaining distinctly visible for half
+an hour, after which its luminosity faded before the young moon, it
+enabled me to measure its angle with a sextant, which gave 30° 20′. It
+was the only example of the meteors which attracted Dr. Brydone’s
+attention on Mount Etna.
+
+We arose betimes on the next day; there was hard work before us. The dew
+was heavy in the ‘nest,’ and in the cool clear dawn the thermometer
+showed 46° (Fah.). Setting out at 6·30 A.M., we walked painfully over
+2800 feet of the most rugged formation, broken and tossed about in
+chaotic masses, immediately at the vent of Black Crater. After passing
+the head of the fire current an easier descent began. We recounted six
+distinct ridges, breaks in the stream, with ‘drops’ sharper than
+elsewhere; but there may be sixty, if viewed from different points. In
+some places the torrent, strangled by its banks, was not more than 100
+feet; then, with all the accidents of a river, it would widen to 100
+yards. The heat overhead became painful, and the black charred wood and
+ashes under foot (the Krumen during their various journeys had burnt the
+bush) formed an excellent reflecting instrument. Lower down there were
+signs of rain in the soppiness of the soil; and the thick warm mists
+surging up from the caldron below rendered taking bearings anything but
+satisfactory. We crossed the stream, and rested at our old breakfasting
+place about 11 A.M. After boiling thermometers at Fern Gate, we bade
+adieu to the open fernery and plunged into the dense forest, bending to
+the S.S.E. The descent here was detestable: slides of clay, drops and
+falls, a cordage of llianas, and a network of tree-roots, made it longer
+than the ascent. It was 9·30 before we entered Mapanya.
+
+Old Balmat and the valiant Botani—we called him Sángo á Lobángo, ‘Lord
+of Lies’—met us in the grass lane outside the settlement, and seemed not
+to know what countenance to assume. I had made up my mind to night
+there, but, singer-like, required no end of friendly pressing, which was
+duly administered. My consent was given coyly, and only on condition
+that provisions, fuel, and water should be supplied reasonably. There
+was an attempt to extract cloth by means of firewood from the
+Mokárá:[107] this, however, failed, and soon we saw at our feet a fowl,
+together with kokos and a large plantain-branch for the Krumen. The hut
+formerly occupied supplied us with ‘a refuge and a Bethel’ for the
+night. The air was cold, the hens would force their way to the wonted
+roosting-place, the hungry sandflies were unendurable to any but a
+pachyderm, and the bossy dirty floor caused hours of _insomnie_, which
+were devoted to eliminating the idea of a portable bed, chair, and
+table, all in one. It is offered gratis to travellers.[108]
+
+On Sunday the 2nd February I left Mapanya early, escorted _honoris
+causâ_ by the chief Botani. Our pace was sharp, and after the sun had
+risen a spear’s length the air was something between the atmosphere of a
+Turkish bath and a London ballroom. The inhabitants of the several
+settlements on our way behaved very differently. Tátá, the chief of a
+little hamlet below Mapanya, actually ‘dashed’ me a fowl, which was
+carried off in triumph for Mrs. Saker at Victoria. At ‘Logo,’ a large
+clearing with nine huts near the Turu district, I found the Krumen, who
+had preceded us, standing with their loads at the edge of the bush. A
+fellow, armed with a musket and a sword, had levelled at them and caused
+the halt. His object was of course to make them cast their packs and
+fling themselves into the bush, under which circumstances the whole
+village would have turned out, and the matter would have become serious.
+By this time the Bakwiri had found out the Krumen to be perhaps greater
+cowards than themselves. They were, however, disappointed. My gang knew
+that the danger of being shot was problematical, but the punishment of
+desertion was certain. Selim and I travelled from that place to nearly
+the foot of the mountain with cocked revolvers; and whenever a naked
+gentleman began to execute a war-dance, or to raise any more than
+justifiable clamour, he was easily persuaded to ‘make himself scarce.’
+There were greedy looks as the line of bundles defiled past the
+settlements, and I thought it necessary to make special arrangements for
+M. Mann’s safe descent.[109]
+
+Near Logo we passed on the right a little hut neatly built of new
+bamboos, and the doors were adorned with inverted T’s of white chalk. It
+was probably a meeting-house or lodge for the Dyengo, an initiation like
+the Jengo of the Camaroons River, which admits the Konja, or free-born,
+of both sexes.
+
+At 9·45 A.M. we made Bosumbo, where the drunken chief Myombi received us
+with a civility bordering upon servility. The water of the rivulet near
+this settlement was delicious after the moss-juice of Mapanya, which
+tainted even green tea. Resuming our march, we met in the lower
+slopes—it was market-day—long lines of women carrying on their backs and
+heads panniers and baskets of the produce of the bay, which had a very
+ancient and fish-like smell. The atmosphere of the forest became close
+and fœtid after the pure æther of the highlands; and the dense
+vegetation excluded even the searching ‘doctor,’ as the sea-breeze is
+called in these latitudes. The road was strewed with tonto, a red fruit
+eaten by monkeys, but not by Krumen. Thence we forded the little river,
+and at 2·30 P.M. we passed through the double palisade of tree-trunks
+which defends the new colony of Victoria Junior. My first steps were
+directed towards the Ethiopic Ocean, where, without the ceremony of
+disrobing, I walked straight in, compelling the Krumen to do the same.
+
+Mrs. Saker, who would not leave the place till she had seen us all
+return ‘safe and sound,’ received me with her usual kindness, and
+provided us with a boat for the Camaroons River. I left Victoria on the
+4th February, 1862, with a sigh.
+
+Farewell, Camaroons! Farewell, beautiful heights! where so many calm and
+quiet days have sped without sandflies, or mosquitoes, or prickly heat.
+Adieu! happy rustic wilds! where I have spent so many pleasant weeks,
+even in West Africa. Adieu! and may adieu in this case bear all the
+significance of au revoir!
+
+And now Victoria is shut in by the high hill-shoulders, the sentinel
+islands fade in the distance, the peaks wax more aërial, less earth-
+like,—
+
+
+  Majoresque cadunt altis de montibus umbræ;
+
+
+whilst a huge purple mist, belted with a fantastic zone of fleecy white
+cloud, drops its mysterious curtain upon the scene of my latest
+adventure.
+
+
+[Footnote 107: Mokara, plur. Bákárá, in the languages of this mountain
+and river means white man. May it not be the origin of the American
+negro’s Buckra man?]
+
+[Footnote 108: Its form is this: two pieces of usual deal plank 4 feet ×
+2—the sleeper’s legs need no care—connected by hinges of canvas, which
+are better than leather in these humid lands, with a batten crosswise
+under each end to raise it from the ground, and a hollow wooden pillow
+at one extremity. Thus placed upon the floor it is chair and bed. When
+acting as table it stands upon a strong St. Andrew’s cross, turning on
+central pivots and capable of being lashed to the plank when on the
+road. Those who object to its hardness as a couch have only to try the
+salient points of an African hut floor.]
+
+[Footnote 109: The botanist left Spring Camp for Ridge Camp on the 13th
+of February, and at the latter place spent four days, of which two from
+heavy rain were lost for collecting. On the 14th thunder lasted from 5
+A.M. to 5 P.M., and ‘in the middle of the day it was so dark that the
+screech-owls and large bats left their hiding-places and announced their
+presence by their unpleasant cries.’ On the afternoon of the 17th, when
+descending, he met Messrs. Smith and Johnson, who had kindly ascertained
+that Botani had no unfriendly intentions. The next day he found Mapanya
+without trouble, reached Victoria at noon, left it on the 24th for
+Camaroons River, and returned to Fernando Po safely by the next
+steamer.]
+
+
+
+
+                              CONCLUSION.
+
+
+The preceding pages will, I believe, have convinced the reader that the
+Camaroons Mountain is, unlike Fernando Po, highly adapted for a colony
+of liberated Africans, and for the Sanitarium now urgently required by
+Lagos and the Bights.[110]
+
+The means of preparing the country for human habitation are ready to our
+hands. From the 45,000 refugee negroes in Canada, an ever-increasing
+pauperdom, it would be easy and economical to raise 300 or 400 men with
+a suitable proportion of families. Instead of sending such persons by
+subscriptions to Yoruba, where, the ground being everywhere private
+property, they will meet with all disfavour, and where the climate is
+deadly, the emigrants can be settled, with equal benefit to themselves
+and to the white race, at Camaroons, whose native chiefs, few and far
+between, are ever ready to sell ground for reasonable sums.[111]
+
+After long thinking upon the subject and consulting with others, I
+venture to lay down—not dogmatically it is hoped—the conditions of
+success in such an undertaking.
+
+The classes preferred should be mechanics and artificers, lumberers and
+labourers; and even if a small sum per annum were given to each male by
+way of salary for the first year or two, the expenditure would not be
+wasted. But the best inducement would be a grant of land on the
+conditions that fair labour should be expended upon it, and that after
+the fifth year of residence and free tenure it should be liable to a
+small quit-rent for municipal purposes. The lots should not be
+extravagant, as they were in the old days of that Father of Failures,
+Sierra Leone. Three acres would suffice for a single man, five for
+husband and wife, and seven to ten for a family.
+
+The healthiest season for landing in this part of Western Africa is
+about May, at the beginning of the rains. As this would entail enforced
+idleness for six months, the colonists might be brought to Victoria
+between June and September, and placed in hulks in Ambas Bay, with light
+preparatory work during favourable weather till early November, when the
+dries are set in, and the labours of bush-clearing and road-making might
+begin. Thus it would be possible to avoid the terrible sickness that
+destroyed the pioneers at Sierra Leone and Bulama, and which gave to
+those places a permanent bad name.
+
+The colonists would require medical comforts and rations—rice and
+biscuit, beans and peas, salt pork and beef—for at least nine months:
+they would find fish in abundance and sometimes a few vegetables in the
+market. The superintendent should be furnished with a stock of cloth and
+knives, matchets and tobacco, to pay the natives of the country for
+service and supplies. Salt[112] should here, as throughout the Bights of
+Benin and Biafra, be made one of the great staples of trade. The sale of
+arms and ammunition and the purchase of slaves even for the purpose of
+manumission should be forbidden under pain of deportation. And there
+should be some limit to the introduction and the consumption of ardent
+spirits.
+
+The first work to be done would be to secure shelter ashore. The
+mainland contains, as has been shown, stone and wood only too
+plentifully, whilst the sea offers coralline and madrepore for lime. But
+framehouses should be brought out from Europe or America, or there will
+be the same amount of sickness as that caused at Fernando Po by the
+refusal of the negroes to lodge the Spanish new-comers.
+
+The best position, I have shown, for the first settlement would be
+Mondori Island, at the mouth of Ambas Bay. The second would be Mount
+Henry, about two hours’ walk N.N.E. of Victoria Mission
+Establishment,[113] and about 1000 feet high. The third and last would
+be the clear and grassy country about Black Crater, 5000 to 7000 feet
+above sea-level, and distant not more than ten miles. The great
+requisite at present is a corduroy road, practicable at all times of the
+year—the path is now a mass of swampy mud during the rainy season.
+
+After erecting the first habitations, the bush would be cleared after
+the fashion of the aborigines, by cutting down the underwood and
+thinning the trees,[114] leaving the largest standing for shade and to
+break the force of the winds. Before the rains the clearings would be
+burned, and 400 acres roughly prepared for yam and koko, cassava and
+sweet potatoes, ground-nuts and Indian corn, bread-fruit and plantains,
+which produce after the first year. The palm-oil tree and the cocoa-nut
+are found growing wild in the lower altitudes; the only difficulty would
+be to protect them. European vegetables will thrive.[115] After a time
+cacao might be made a source of wealth to the colony, and prepare the
+way for tobacco, coffee, and sugar. Live stock could be purchased in
+small quantities for herding purposes from the people, or it might be
+sent from England. Bullocks are fine animals upon these mountains, goats
+are excellent, sheep are tolerable, and ‘the impure’ abound. Poultry and
+pigeons are easily reared. The highlands, above 7000 feet, are capable,
+as the footprints of large deer show, of becoming cattle-runs, and above
+that altitude they are admirable warrens, awaiting only rabbits. Asses
+and mules, when required for the sanitarium, could be procured at a
+moderate price from Tenerife.
+
+Thus the colonists, leaving the bleak and barren north, would soon be
+enabled to dwell under their own roof-trees in their own land. It is
+methinks erroneously said that Africa, who sends forth streams of
+population, vetoes by the deadliness of her climate the reflux of the
+West upon the East. The experiment is, however, worth trying, under
+favourable circumstances, and the success of the native establishment
+would be followed by a sanitarium equal to that of the Mahabaleshwar or
+the Neilgherry Hills in Western India. The colonists would enjoy full
+religious liberty and the means of normal education: the head-quarters
+of the Camaroons Mission are within an easy day’s boating, and there are
+already two native teachers at Victoria. By degrees the mail-steamers
+would visit once a month the new settlement—it is directly in their way
+between the Calabar and Camaroons Rivers, whereas they must make a
+détour to the island of Fernando Po. And, finally, the coal-depôt and
+the consulate would be removed from the starving Cove of malarious
+Clarence to a place of health and plenty. With which I conclude.
+
+
+  A fin corona la obra.
+
+
+[Footnote 110: During the winter of 1863 I was permitted by the ‘Times’
+to show the advantages of Camaroons Mountain as a convict station, a
+Batavia, or a Loanda for English criminals. Here the place will be
+considered mainly with a view to a sanitarium.]
+
+[Footnote 111: Above a certain altitude, certainly not exceeding 3500
+out of 13,000 feet, the land is uninhabited and uncultivated; though
+claimed by King William of Bimbia, it can be bought for a nominal sum.]
+
+[Footnote 112: It is the most licit article of African commerce, its use
+causes an additional and increasing demand, and it benefits the people
+instead of demoralizing them, as the gunpowder, the muskets, and the
+pestilent rum of the trade have ever done.]
+
+[Footnote 113: This settlement should be surrounded by a deep ditch and
+a strong palisade like Capt. Phil. Beaver’s at Bulama. The best form of
+house is lumber upon stone pillars, which admit a free current of air
+under the inhabited rooms.]
+
+[Footnote 114: The present expense of felling a large trunk is 18 pence.
+A small and moveable saw-mill worked by steam-engine or water-power
+would make plankage worth only the price of labour.]
+
+[Footnote 115: The reader will conceive some idea of the Fernandian
+colonists when informed that there is not a kitchen garden—to say
+nothing of a flower garden—in the place. Selim, my factotum, found no
+difficulty in growing endive, onions, beans, cress, mustard, and a
+variety of European vegetables.]
+
+
+
+
+                               * * * * *
+                               APPENDIX.
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                               APPENDIX I
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+          MR. GRAZILHIER’S DESCRIPTION OF THE AMBOZES COUNTRY.
+
+                [Extracted from Barbot, A.D. 1678-1706.]
+
+
+The territory of Ambozes, which I said before is situated between Rio
+del Rey and Rio Camarones, is very remarkable for the immense height of
+the mountains it has near the seashore, which the Spaniards call Alta-
+Tierra de Ambozi, and reckon them as high as the Peak of Teneriffe. The
+coast runs from Rio del Rey to south-east; the little river Camarones
+Pequeno[116] lies about five leagues from Rio del Rey; from it to Cape
+Camarones, the northern point of Rio Camarones Grande, the coast is low
+and woody—much more than it is from Little Camarones to Rio del Rey.
+This Little Camarones River is properly a branch of Great Camarones
+River,[117] and divides itself coming out from the latter into three
+branches, all three running through the lands of the Ambozes, into the
+Great Æthiopick Ocean; the principal of which, being the third river
+south-east of Rio del Rey, is called Old Camarones by the English. This
+third branch divides itself again into two other branches at a distance
+from each other, running to S.E. and S.S.E. into the Great Camaroon
+River; and thus with the ocean form three islands in the territory of
+the Ambozes, wherein are the highest mountains, which extend near to the
+north point or head of Great Camarones; and at west and south-west of
+Old Camarones River are three round islands off at sea, two or three
+leagues[118] from the main, as lofty and high land as the opposite
+Ambozes hills. These islands are called by the Portuguese Ilhas Ambozes;
+the channel betwixt them and the main is seven fathoms deep, though from
+some distance off at sea they seem to touch the opposite continent,
+which is properly the effect of the immense altitude of the hills on
+either side of the channel; so that the biggest first-rate may sail
+through it with safety, the tide there running as the wind sets. The
+most northern island of the three lies four leagues from the Pescaria or
+fishery of Rio del Rey, and the most southern of them five leagues to
+the north of Cape Camarones, being the highest land of them all, and the
+largest; the other, which is the smallest, lies betwixt the two former.
+Though these little islands look but like large lofty rocks at a
+distance, yet they swarm with people,[119] and are so fertile—especially
+in palm-wine and oil—that the soil produces enough to subsist the
+inhabitants. It is surprising to find there such abundance of palm-
+trees, when there is not one to be seen on the opposite continent.[120]
+The sea about the islands abounds in many sorts of good fish, which is
+of great advantage to the islanders. The road for trading-ships is east
+of the most southern island. The inhabitants, for the most part,
+understand Portuguese pretty well, but are the worst Blacks of all
+Guinea.[121] They form a sort of commonwealth of the three islands,
+making continual descents with their canoes on the territory of Ambozes
+on the main, and get from thence in their incursions a vast quantity of
+provisions, and have no other commerce with those people. The territory
+of Ambozes comprehends several villages on the west of Cape Camarones,
+amongst which are those of Cesgis, Bodi, and Bodiwa, where there is a
+little trade for slaves and for accory.[122] The Hollanders trade there
+most of all Europeans, and export slaves for the same sorts of goods
+they use to import at Rio del Rey. The Blacks there have the same names
+for numbers as those of Camarones—one is ‘mo;’ two, ‘ba;’ three,
+‘melella;’ four, ‘meley;’ and five, ‘matau,’ &c.[123]
+
+The country of Ambozes is very fertile in all the sorts of plants and
+fruits of Guinea, except palm-trees, of which not one is to be seen, as
+I have already hinted; and to supply the defect of palm-wine they make a
+liquor for their usual drink of a certain root called Gajanlas, boiled
+in water, which is not disagreeable, and is, besides, a remedy for the
+cholic. They have great stores of poultry and other eatable animals, for
+which reason many European ships take provisions and refreshments
+there.[124]
+
+
+[Footnote 116: Now called the Bimbia River.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 117: I doubt this, and believe them to have an independent
+origin.—R. B.s]
+
+[Footnote 118: Read miles.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 119: Now reduced to some 3000 souls.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 120: All this is changed. There are more palm-trees on the
+continent than on the islands.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 121: The same was said by Bosman of the poor timid Bubes of
+Fernando Po, and with equal justice.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 122: Aggri or Popo beads?—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 123: In the Isubu or Camarones dialect one is eoko or yoko;
+five, bitanu, subject to an alliterative concord.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 124: All this is also changed.—R. B.]
+
+
+
+
+                              APPENDIX II.
+
+                   MR. MERRICK’S TOUR IN WEST AFRICA.
+
+           [Extracted from the ‘Baptist Magazine’ for 1845.]
+
+
+Mr. Merrick has lately visited the Camaroons Mountains, exploring a
+district of which very little was known, in order to ascertain facts
+respecting the state of the country and the condition of the inhabitants
+which might be of service in directing future operations. Believing that
+his account of his tour will be interesting to many of our readers, we
+abridge it but slightly:—
+
+‘Early on Tuesday morning, the 23rd April, Smith and I left our abode
+for John King’s Town, from whence we started with our travelling-party
+at half-past six for the Bwengga market.[125] Our band consisted of
+eleven men and boys as attendants and carriers: Copper, my interpreter;
+John King, my principal guide; Smith, and myself.[126] We were to have
+walked all the way, but, at the request of John King, I agreed to go as
+far as the Bwengga market by sea, with the understanding that, if
+spared, we should return by land. The passage to the market lies through
+a creek a short distance from King William’s Town, in a north-westerly
+direction; and the market is called Bwengga, after the district in which
+the people reside whose goods are sold at the market. We arrived at nine
+o’clock, and met a number of people from Bimbia and its vicinity. Not
+many of the people had yet come down from the interior, but several of
+those who had, resorted to the canoe in which I sat, and gazed on me
+with wonder and amazement. At twenty minutes to eleven I heard a rush,
+and, looking round, saw the people coming down to the market in a body.
+They approached with a trot, and hastened down the cliff to the canoes
+for the purpose of bartering their goods. The chief article was
+plantains, which were brought down in conical baskets fastened to the
+back by means of strings round the arms and forehead. I need hardly say
+that women were the principal carriers. About 200 came to market, among
+whom there were not more than about 20 men who carried loads; and those
+who did, had a much smaller proportion than the women. The plantains
+were bartered for a few dried shrimps and fishes. Having disposed of
+their goods, the people came up the cliff about twenty minutes after
+eleven, and, resorting to the spot where I was sitting, viewed me with
+perfect amazement. The simplicity of their manner formed a striking
+contrast to the proud bearing and mien of the Camaroons and many of the
+Bimbia gentlemen. It was with great difficulty that I obtained silence,
+which being done, I made known in a few words the object of my intended
+visit to the interior. I had spoken only a few sentences when one of the
+gentlemen remarked that the majority of the people who had come to
+market were very ignorant, that it was useless for me to speak to them,
+and that I had better wait till I reached the Bwengga district, and then
+speak to the gentlemen, who would listen attentively to all I had to
+say. I replied that, if they were ignorant, the good word which I
+intended to speak would make them wise. As soon as the poor women heard
+this, they manifested their approbation by loud applause, and shortly
+after proceeded homeward, while I accompanied John King to his farm,
+which is in the vicinity of the Bwengga market. At a quarter after three
+our party left John King’s farm for the Bwengga district, and, after
+walking a short time along a track, reached the main road. This
+path—though walked over every five days by hundreds of people—is very
+narrow, and in many parts is a mere track. It runs for the most part
+through a thicket by which the clouds are frequently obscured, and as a
+walk is entirely devoid of interest. At five minutes before four we
+ascended a very steep hill, from which time the country became rather
+hilly. Five minutes after four we took a short rest, and proceeding on
+our journey ascended another steep hill at half-past four, from which we
+had a view of the sea, and, had it hot been for the mist, should, I
+understand, have seen Cape Camaroon.[127] At five o’clock we came in
+sight of a river, which John King informed me empties itself in the sea
+near his town. Here our whole party refreshed themselves with a good
+draught of water, which was very cool and pleasant. During our journey
+we passed two or three farms near the road, on which plantains are
+chiefly cultivated. I was informed by John King that a few people are
+living in the bush near the farms.
+
+‘At six o’clock we arrived at a group of houses, called by John King a
+town, when I discovered that Bwengga was not a large town or city, as I
+had all along imagined, but a district or a sort of county, in which are
+many towns.[128] Our party sat down at this town to rest. Soon many of
+the children were around me, while some, afraid of a white face,
+remained at a distance with their eyes riveted on me.
+
+‘After being regaled with a draught of palm-wine, our party proceeded
+onward, and, passing another town which consisted of four or five
+houses, arrived at our resting-place for the night at a quarter past
+six. The chief or master of this town is called Ebore, and, according to
+John King’s account, is his brother; but, during our journey, John
+claimed brotherhood to so many that it is difficult to say who are
+really related to him.[129] I, however, think that, if not his father’s
+or mother’s child, Ebore is a near kinsman. We met Ebore sitting on a
+stone near the door of his house, in conversation with one of his wives,
+who appears very fond of him, and for whom, I think, Ebore entertains
+much affection. Such reciprocal affection between husband and wife was
+to me very gratifying, as in my few short tours in Africa I have seldom
+seen it exhibited. The women are, for the most part, regarded and
+treated as the slaves of their husbands, who possess unlimited power
+over them, and do with them just what they please. When I was informed,
+on my arrival at Ebore’s town, that he was king of the place, I at first
+thought he was the ruler of the whole Bwengga district; but I soon
+discovered my mistake, and found that he was only king and ruler over
+his own wives and children. The mode of government in this part of
+Africa is strictly patriarchal. I was kindly received by Ebore, and,
+having seated myself near him, he began to expatiate on the great joy
+and pleasure which he experienced in being visited by a white man—an
+honour which he never expected, and which his father, though much more
+wealthy than he, never enjoyed. He admired also my fearlessness, and
+said that my heart must be very big, or I would never have come where a
+single white man had never before set foot. Shortly after my arrival I
+was saluted by the firing of muskets, not only at Ebore’s place, but at
+some distant town whose inhabitants must have concluded that I had
+arrived from the report of guns which they heard from Ebore’s town.
+
+‘After dinner—which consisted of palm-oil and fish and plantains, of
+which I ate heartily after my unusually long walk—I addressed the
+people, and endeavoured to point out as plainly as I could the way of
+salvation by Christ. My auditors listened patiently for a long time, and
+while I spoke Ebore frequently exclaimed, “Toto—mene! toto—mene!”—“True!
+true!” When I alluded to the folly of trusting to charms for deliverance
+in times of danger, he remarked that what I said was quite correct, for
+several men who had received charms to preserve them from danger and
+death had, to his knowledge, been shot, and that God alone could protect
+and save. At the close of my address, I sang, “Jesus shall reign,” &c.,
+and concluded with prayer. When I was ready to go to bed, I was
+conducted to a room about 10 feet long, 5½ feet wide, and 7 feet high to
+the top of the roof. As my bed was placed across the room, my head lay
+against one side of the wall, while my feet reached the other side; yet
+I slept comfortably, and hope I felt grateful to God for having provided
+for me a shelter among the heathen.[130] Ebore accompanied me to the
+room, and remained while I read a portion of Scripture and prayed, and
+during prayer knelt down. On rising from my knees, I told him my reasons
+for reading the Word of God and praying to Him before retiring to rest.
+As I found Ebore disinclined to leave the room, I undressed myself
+before him. He was quite surprised at the number of garments I wore, and
+viewed me from head to foot till I got into bed.[131]
+
+                                                   ‘Wednesday, April 24.
+
+‘As soon as the door of my room was opened this morning, Ebore came to
+pay his respects, and addressed me “Sanggwosu”—the term used by servants
+when speaking to their masters. Before breakfast I read and explained to
+Copper and John King, both of whom speak and understand English, the
+second chapter of Matthew. Ebore came in while I was reading, and heard
+from John King and Copper what I communicated to them. After explaining
+the Scriptures, I showed Ebore the views of our Jamaica chapels, and
+told him of the affection which the people of God in Jamaica entertained
+for the African race. He listened with much attention and astonishment
+when I told him of the vast sums of money subscribed by the Christian
+world for the benefit of Africa, and said that if the people of God did
+not love them they would never act in that manner.
+
+‘After breakfast John King and Copper, Smith, and I, proceeded to the
+town of a man called Futa, and sometimes Madiba—a short distance to the
+south-east of Ebore’s place. On our arrival we learnt that he was not at
+home, but would soon return. I afterwards discovered that he was at the
+back part of his house, and directed John King to tell me he was out,
+intending while we walked a little way to dress himself. After a short
+walk to another town, where Mundere, the brother of Madiba, resides, we
+returned to Madiba’s house, when he made his appearance in a cloth
+round-jacket, a pretty wrapper, and a blue gossamer-hat. He was rather
+reserved and formal, but listened with attention to the truths which I
+declared. From the appearance and mien of Futa, I concluded that he was
+a man of influence and generally respected, and have since discovered
+that my conclusion was quite correct. Madiba’s town is situated on a
+beautiful plain on the top of a hill. One of his houses is a large one
+compared with the houses of the other chiefs, and is very well
+constructed. He is evidently an ingenious man, and with a little
+instruction would make an excellent carpenter.
+
+‘While at Madiba’s house I tendered my hand to a man who refused to
+shake it, and, on inquiring the reason, learnt that the man had recently
+lost one of his relations, and that the people in the interior never
+shake hands with their dearest friends for a certain time after the
+death of a near relative. John King asked a question to-day which shows
+the necessity of explaining figurative language when employed in
+instructing the people. He inquired whether by giving the heart to God I
+meant a man was to cut out his heart. He next inquired whether God had a
+wife, and while I was speaking of the blessedness of Heaven, he asked
+how it could be a “good good” country when the people who lived there
+did not eat?[132] I explained to him that the spirit was not supported
+by food—that the body alone required food for its sustentation, and that
+after death the spirits of those who believed in Christ would live in
+the enjoyment of the knowledge and love of God. In returning to Ebore’s
+town we walked another way, and passed the town of an old man named
+Dume, who appeared very glad to see me. My soul was distressed when I
+thought that he would probably die before the Gospel could be fully and
+properly explained to him.
+
+‘I saw several women at Ebore’s town engaged in making palm-oil to-day.
+The palm-nut, or fruit, is first boiled, after which the part which
+contains the oil is separated from the kernel, and rolled up in small
+balls, from which the oil is extracted by twisting it with the fingers.
+A great deal of oil is left in the husk, which, with suitable machinery,
+might be entirely extracted. We were to have proceeded on our journey
+to-day, but Ebore would not allow us to do so. In the evening I
+conversed again with the people about Christ and his salvation, when
+Ebore remarked that he believed God had sent me among them to teach them
+good things, and that he would willingly sit up all night to hear me.
+Before retiring to rest I made Ebore a present of cloth and other
+things, for which he expressed himself very grateful. Ebore is about
+forty years of age, of the middle stature, but appears short, in
+consequence of a bend in the back. His appearance is not calculated to
+command respect, but there is in him a great deal of real kindness,
+connected with humility, which cannot fail to excite the affections of
+those that may become acquainted with him. There is, I fear, but little
+firmness in his character, which would render him an unfit person to
+depend upon in times of trouble or danger.
+
+‘Unlike Ebore, Futa seems a man of great firmness and decision of
+character. His manner and bearing, though the reverse of pride, are much
+calculated to call forth respect, and, with his property (for he is
+considered wealthy), will render him influential wherever he goes. Futa
+is about the same age as Ebore, perhaps a little older; of the middle
+stature, and rather slender, but well made.
+
+                                                    ‘Thursday, April 25.
+
+‘We were to have proceeded this morning to the Sofo district, but
+yesterday evening we heard that an influential and wealthy old man in
+the Moriko district, named Manja, had made grand preparations for my
+reception, and sent to say he hoped I would not fail to call on him. As
+John King thought it prudent for us to visit Manja, we left for his
+place at twenty-five minutes after six this morning.
+
+‘Shortly after leaving Ebore’s we passed three small towns, and crossed
+a small stream called Waugge, running from the west. Indeed, all the
+rivers which we saw and crossed in our journey flowed from the north-
+west. At a quarter after seven we crossed a beautiful stream about
+thirty yards wide, called Ben-yua, in which a large artificial basin was
+formed of stones, for the purpose of securing fishes. Our road at this
+point lay through a thick bush, and is evidently an unfrequented path.
+At fifteen minutes to eight we entered the Bore-pamba district, and
+passed Mbumbo’s town. Three minutes after eight we passed another
+stream, called the Ndunggu, and shortly after saw a small farm, on which
+maize, cocoa,[133] and peas were growing; passed the towns of Korame,
+Mukwure, Malape, and Monyunggo, and entered the Bakuku district; passed
+the town of Masu, and at five minutes after nine arrived at Manja’s
+town, in the Moriko district,[134] and seated myself under a tree, where
+old Manja in a short time came to see me. He was dressed in a large
+great-coat, which would have sat much better on a man twice his size.
+His hand was quite hidden by his large garment, so that when he
+presented it to me I had to shake his sleeve. I had not been seated long
+before I was informed that two gentlemen from Bwea,[135] one of the last
+districts on the way to the Camaroons Mountains, had come down to see
+me, having understood that I had come for the purpose of visiting the
+mountain. I exceedingly regretted that, whenever the people asked John
+King the object of my visit, he always informed them that I was going to
+the mountain, which led them to think I was in quest of treasures.
+Indeed John King himself did not believe that the sole object of my
+visit was to make known the Gospel of Salvation and find out the most
+eligible districts for establishing missionary stations.[136] After a
+few minutes’ conversation with Manja he left, but soon returned with a
+goat as a present. I directed John King to have it killed for our party,
+and began to declare the Gospel to the people who surrounded me; but
+they seemed more desirous to gaze upon me and make a noise than to
+listen to the solemn truths I was declaring. At breakfast I endeavoured
+again to engage the people’s attention, but could not get them to listen
+for any length of time. They were, however, quite delighted with an
+Isubu lesson, which I took with me for the purpose of teaching the
+children as I passed along, and were exceedingly astonished when I
+exhibited my watch.
+
+‘Many people from other districts resorted to Manja’s place to see me;
+some, I learn, from a distance, to whom I explained the object of my
+visit. In the afternoon Copper and I walked to the town of Junge, a
+short distance west of Manja’s place, where I conversed for some time
+about the Great Salvation, and instructed the people from my Isubu
+lesson. They called my watch the moon, and said I was indeed a God-man,
+for I had gone up to God, and brought down the moon with me. On my
+return from Junge’s place Smith and I took a long walk, and spent a
+sweet season in conversation about the universal dominion of Christ.
+Since my arrival in Africa, nothing administers more joy to my soul than
+reflection or conversation respecting the entire subjugation of the
+nations of the earth to our Divine Redeemer. Indeed, if missionaries
+would be strengthened for their work, they must at all times keep the
+cheering truth before their minds. John King informed me this afternoon
+that the men who came from the Bwea district said they would not conduct
+me to the town without being well paid; but on finding that I evinced no
+anxiety for going thither they left, with promise of meeting me at
+Manja’s town early in the morning. African travellers must pay little
+attention to the talk and noise of the people, but act with kindness,
+firmness, prudence, and justice. Before going to bed I made old Manja a
+present of cloth, &c., with which he was quite pleased. I also
+distributed some needles among the women and girls, and clothed three of
+Manja’s children, who were not a little delighted with their new garb.
+
+‘Both at Ebore’s and Manja’s place I distributed some English peas,
+which were kindly sent me by the St. Albans friends. When at Camaroons I
+also distributed some of the same peas, and have no doubt that by this
+time many of the Diwalla people have reaped a crop.[137]
+
+                                                      ‘Friday, April 26.
+
+‘We were to have left Manja’s town early this morning, but were detained
+by heavy rains till twelve o’clock, when we proceeded on our journey. At
+twenty-five minutes after twelve we entered the Bokwei district, and at
+the same time passed the town of Mamunde. Shortly after we passed
+Morio’s town. At one o’clock the country became very hilly. We arrived
+at Dickenye’s town at half-past one, which is situated in the Bwea
+district. I was kindly received by Dickenye, who appeared very happy to
+see me, and, like Ebore, dwelt for a long time on the great honour
+bestowed on him by the visit of a white man. I, however, soon discovered
+that great suspicions were entertained respecting my intended visit to
+the mountain; and John King, in order to learn the real object of my
+visit, took Smith aside, and questioned him closely on the subject.
+Shortly after my arrival Dickenye told John King that there were immense
+treasures on the mountain; that on the death of any influential person
+in the Bwea district they had frequently seen cloths of every
+description spread out on the mountain; that there was a great deal of
+gunpowder, salt, and dollars on the mountain;[138] and they thanked John
+King for bringing me to show them how to obtain the treasures. There was
+also a “large water” on the mountain, where a white man was often seen,
+and which no black man could pass; that they sometimes heard the report
+of guns fired by the white man; that that white was my brother, and I
+had come to see him and fetch him down from the mountain.
+
+‘In vain I endeavoured to persuade them that the sole object of my visit
+was to impart the knowledge of the true God, and to learn whether they
+were willing to receive religious teachers. During the day I embraced
+every opportunity of declaring the Gospel, but, like those of Manja’s
+town, the Bwea people were more desirous to sing and dance and make a
+noise than attend to what I had to say. In the afternoon several chiefs
+came to see me. After they had listened to the truth a short time,
+Dickenye, who is an incessant talker, began to address the people, after
+which he danced about, and endeavoured to appear very great. He was
+followed by another man, who wore a sort of tippet made by himself. He
+also delivered an address, and, like Dickenye, danced and sung, and
+capered about amidst the applause of the surrounding multitude. As
+evening approached, John King informed me that all the gentlemen of the
+district were to assemble after dark, in order to come to some decision
+respecting the charge they were to make for allowing me to visit the
+mountain. Accordingly we had a meeting in one of Dickenye’s houses in
+the evening, when all the gentlemen strenuously maintained that there
+were incalculable treasures on the mountain, and that John King had
+brought me to obtain them. I replied that many of them would on the
+morrow accompany me to the mountain, and would have an opportunity of
+seeing all it contained, and that whatever I might bring down they were
+at perfect liberty to retain. During my short life I have met many great
+talkers, but never before heard so garrulous a man as Dickenye. He seems
+never tired of chatting, and will scarcely allow any one else to speak a
+word. None but those who have been engaged in an African palaver[139]
+can form a correct idea of its tediousness. When you imagine that the
+subject in debate has been brought to a close and about to be settled,
+all on a sudden you find yourself at the point from whence you started,
+and the objections which you had before answered, again brought forward
+as if they were entirely new. This was the ordeal through which I had to
+pass at Dickenye’s place; and what rendered it more trying was my
+ignorance of the language, and consequent dependence on John King and
+Copper for an interpretation of all that was said. The palaver being
+closed, I returned to rest, after commending myself and our party to the
+Divine protection, and as usual slept well.
+
+                                                    ‘Saturday, April 27.
+
+‘We were to have started before daylight, but could not manage to get
+away before fifteen minutes before seven. It is very difficult to get an
+uncivilized African band to travel early. On my arrival at Dickenye’s I
+was informed that his town was the nearest to the mountain in the Bwea
+district, and I discovered this morning that my information was not
+correct. Shortly after leaving Dickenye’s we passed three towns, all
+near each other, and arrived at the last town on the way to the mountain
+at a quarter after seven. At this time we saw a road to the south, which
+I was informed leads to Rumby. At fifteen minutes to eight we arrived at
+a river flowing from the north-west, in a south-westerly direction. At
+this point there was a sensible change in the atmosphere. I drank of the
+water of the river, whose bed was very rocky, and found it delightfully
+cool. Near the river is a small abandoned farm, which was formerly
+cultivated by some of the Bwea people. Before visiting the interior I
+thought the people spent a great deal of their time in agricultural
+pursuits, but was surprised during my journey to see so few farms, and
+those so much neglected. All the plantain-farms I saw were covered with
+grass and bush. Like those on the coast, the people in the country live
+a life of almost absolute idleness. They do not set the smallest value
+on time, and prefer spending days and weeks in hunting (though they not
+unfrequently return home as empty as they went out) to cultivating the
+soil. May they soon come under the influence of that Gospel which so
+strongly condemns idleness, and inculcates the necessity of industrious
+habits! But to resume our narrative. At eight o’clock the Bwea men who
+had accompanied me stopped to perform a ceremony called Mosere.[140]
+Dickenye’s brother Bunggome, with a mug of water in his hand, delivered
+an address to the following effect:—“That the Moriko and Bwengga men
+were unwilling that the Bwea people should engage in trade with Bimbia,
+but that John King had kindly brought a white man to see them, who he
+hoped would open a communication between the coast and the Bwea
+district.” After the address a libation was poured out on the ground,
+and the remainder of the water in the mug drank by all who had engaged
+in the ceremony. I requested John King to say to them that the good word
+which I had spoken to them was calculated to unite all people in one
+common bond; and if they and the Moriko and Bwengga people attended to
+it, instead of opposing each other in trade, they would live as
+brethren, and do all in their power to promote the welfare of one
+another. They appeared quite pleased with my remarks, and proceeded on
+the journey with smiling countenances.
+
+‘A few minutes before the Mosere ceremony was performed we crossed a
+fine stream, whose water was very cold. At twenty minutes before ten we
+arrived at another river-course, destitute of water, except a small
+portion (rain-water, I suppose) in hollows of rocks, and which reminded
+me of the pools of rain-water from which the Israelites were wont to
+refresh themselves in their journeys to the Holy City. Our whole party
+took a long draught of water here, as we were given to understand that
+we should meet with no more during the remainder of our journey. Ten
+minutes before ten we had an excellent view of the sea. Perhaps it is
+necessary to observe that the whole district through which we passed is
+very well furnished with hard wood. The wood is so hard that the Bwea
+men, not possessing proper axes, are unable to fell the trees for the
+purpose of making farms. Eight minutes after ten we passed the last farm
+of the Bwea people on the way to the Camaroons Mountains. On this farm
+is growing the finest piece of cocoa I have seen since my arrival in
+Africa. I was rather surprised that the Bwea people should cultivate
+farms so far from their towns, and thought they must have good reason
+for doing so; and on inquiry found that they were in the habit of
+spending whole weeks in the woods hunting the ngika, or buffalo, and
+during that time cultivated the soil in the vicinity of the chase.
+Twenty-five minutes before eleven the brother of Dickenye, perceiving
+that we were drawing near the mountain, broke a small bush, and, holding
+it in his hand, prayed aloud to his dead father and mother to protect
+him from danger in approaching the mountain. I directed John King to
+tell him that Obassa Luba[141] (the name by which the Deity is called)
+alone could afford him help, and that his petitions should have been
+presented to him. On hearing this he began to cry to Obassa Luba for
+help. The evident fear of the people as they drew near the mountain led
+me to conclude that they had never before travelled so far, though they
+wished to make me believe that many of them had before ascended the
+mountain. At twenty minutes before eleven, we arrived at a beautiful
+plain extending along the base of the mountain a considerable way. This
+plain is covered with a fine wing-grass, some of which I brought down as
+a memorial of my visit. A quarter before eleven we had an extensive and
+splendid view of the sea, rivers, and lowlands from the plain at the
+base of the mountain. We saw very distinctly Balimba point and river,
+and a little eastward the Bakuku, Munggo, and Bunji rivers and
+country.[142] At ten minutes after eleven our band sat down on the
+grassy plain to hold a consultation as to whether they should ascend the
+mountain, at whose height and majestic aspect they were manifestly
+alarmed. While with wonder and awe they gazed upon the grand and lofty
+fabric, Smith observed that, if they were so alarmed at beholding the
+works of the Almighty, what would be the state of their mind when they
+beheld the Almighty himself on the Judgment-day? John King, who had all
+along spoken of his determination to go to the very apex of the
+mountain, declared that he could not proceed further; while the Bwea men
+said it was useless to accompany me if no treasures were to be obtained.
+I reminded them that I had agreed to pay them to go with me, and, if
+they broke their engagement, they could not expect payment. At length
+ten of the Bwea men made up their minds to accompany me, and with Smith,
+Copper, and myself, started for the much-dreaded Munggo,[143] as the
+mountain is called in the Isubu tongue. With much difficulty we ascended
+about a third of the mountain at six minutes after one, where it was so
+cold that I judged it unwise to proceed higher with men who had only a
+piece of cloth around their loins. This, with other reasons, induced me
+to descend the mountain before reaching its apex, though I must confess
+I did so very reluctantly. At the elevation on which I stood I
+experienced all the sensations produced by an English winter. My
+nostrils ran copiously, my eyes were much affected, and my fingers
+stiff. The faces of my attendants were covered with a sort of white
+incrustation, such as may be seen on the skins of black men in England
+during winter. Their eyes were also much affected, and Dickenye’s
+brother had a fit of ague, and trembled like an aspen-leaf. The mountain
+after a certain height (perhaps from about the sixth of its altitude
+from the base) is entirely covered with a fine and beautifully green
+grass, with here and there a few shrubs. The soil is composed of small
+pieces of soft stone, which have evidently been subject to the action of
+fire, and which frequently crumbled or resigned their places as the
+weight of our bodies rested upon them in ascending. From the point on
+which we stood we had an excellent view of the lowlands and the
+different rivers in the Bight of Biafra. We began to descend the
+mountain about a quarter after one, and arrived at the grassy plain at
+ten minutes before three, from whence, though much fatigued, we
+immediately proceeded homeward. When we had nearly reached our resting-
+place the Bwea men assembled, and agreed to tell the people on their
+arrival that there were immense treasures on the mountain, but that I
+had resolved on not taking them till my return, when I would bring
+another white man with me. On hearing this I requested John King to
+undeceive the people, and let them know the truth. At fifteen minutes
+after five we arrived at the last town on the way to the mountain, and
+eight minutes after six reached Dickenye’s town, our resting-place. In
+returning the Bwea men sang the greater part of the way, and seemed very
+glad that no harm had befallen them on their way to the mountain. One of
+their songs was to the following effect:—“The white man cut down the
+grass,[144] and told it to stand up. The grass replied, How can I stand?
+you have cut me down.” My feet ached so much at my long and difficult
+journey that I could hardly stir, but a good night’s rest refreshed my
+wearied frame, and rendered me strong again for duty.
+
+                                                  ‘Lord’s day, April 28.
+
+‘I spent a pleasant time this morning in instructing several children
+and young people from my Isubu lesson. They exhibited considerable
+pleasure in spelling the words of their language, and, though they spent
+more than a quarter of an hour at their lesson, did not appear tired.
+Finding that the adult people were more inclined to drum and dance than
+listen to the Gospel, I left Dickenye’s town after breakfast and,
+accompanied by John King, went to see a very old man named Ibungge, who
+had been sick for a long time, and intelligence of whose death arrived
+at Bimbia a few days ago. I endeavoured to preach salvation by Christ to
+him and his people, but fear the old man did not comprehend what was
+said to him. I saw a woman this morning with her face besmeared with
+dirt, and a band of the fibre of the plantain-tree round her forehead,
+which I learn is the usual badge of mourning of the people of the
+district. The Bimbia women do not wear the band round their foreheads,
+but besmear their faces for several months with a mixture of dirt,
+lampblack, and palm-oil.
+
+‘About two o’clock to-day a man from the Boba[145] district came to see
+me, and listened very attentively to the truths which I declared to him.
+Dickenye introduced him to me, and sat for a short time. I had not,
+however, spoken long before he began to interrupt me; but finding that I
+would not attend to him, and was determined to go on conversing with the
+Boba man, he left the hut, and called away his friend, but he would not
+go. As the Boba man defended the practice of polygamy, I dwelt much on
+the evils of it, and assured him it was very offensive to God. After the
+departure of the poor man I learnt that he had recently shot a man for
+seducing one of his wives, and had in consequence to desert his house,
+and hide himself in the woods. According to a rule or law, called
+Dibumbe, every man from Bimbia to the Camaroons Mountains, and also on
+the Mungo and Bunge rivers, and I believe at other places, who commits
+murder, is given up by his townspeople to be hanged.[146] While speaking
+to the Boba man, little did I think I was pointing out the evils of the
+very sin which had compelled him to leave the few comforts of his home
+to wander in the woods.
+
+‘As in South Africa, there are men in the Bwea district and in other
+parts of the country who profess to be able to produce rain. John King
+firmly believes in the pretended power of the rain-makers, and
+strenuously maintained that they did possess the power, notwithstanding
+all I could say to convince him to the contrary.
+
+‘I understood this afternoon that the chief men of Bwea, and especially
+Dickenye, are entertaining large expectations respecting the presents
+they are to receive before my departure. They told John King that he,
+King William, Dick Merchant, and the other traders of Bimbia, had
+received large presents to allow me to visit the interior, and now I had
+seen their mountain, John King did not wish me to give them anything.
+The covetousness of the people is exceedingly trying and distressing,
+and, with vainglory, exhibits itself in almost every word and action. Oh
+that the time may speedily come when their selfishness will be subdued,
+and their hearts renovated by the Divine Spirit!
+
+‘About three o’clock Smith and I sang a hymn, read a portion of
+Scripture, and engaged in prayer, in which we specially implored the
+Lord to visit the dark places of the earth with the light of His
+glorious Gospel. Smith and I conversed much with Copper to-day about the
+necessity of a change of heart. It is very gratifying to me to be able
+to state that light seems gradually shining upon this man’s mind. He has
+already abandoned a few of his country practices, and will, I hope, be
+given to us as the first-fruit of our labours. When I resolved on
+visiting the Camaroons Mountains, I fully expected difficulties in the
+way. True, I did not entertain the slightest apprehensions of personal
+danger, yet I by no means imagined that my path would be a smooth one.
+Indeed from the day of my arrival at Bwea, I plainly foresaw that we
+should meet with opposition before our departure. It was not to be
+expected that Satan would sit quietly and see one of his strongholds
+attacked without retaliation. But greater is He that is for us than they
+who are against us. The prey of the enemy will yet be plucked from his
+teeth, and the kingdom of Christ established where Satan’s empire now
+raises its proud and lofty head.
+
+                                                      ‘Monday, April 29.
+
+‘I arose unusually early on Monday morning, and spent a sweet season in
+prayer. My soul was much drawn out in behalf of the heathens in general,
+but more particularly for Africa. I felt, while supplicating the Mercy-
+seat, that the Lord was preparing my mind and strengthening my spirit
+for some trial. When our baggage had been packed up, and we were ready
+to leave, I presented Dickenye and three of the chief men at Bwea with
+cloth, garments, and other things; but they were quite dissatisfied, and
+said they would not allow our boxes to be taken away unless I gave them
+more cloth. I knew well that, if I yielded to their unjust exaction,
+instead of being satisfied, they would be encouraged to make other
+demands, and consequently declined giving anything else. On hearing this
+they made a great noise, and seemed determined to detain us. Several of
+the men were armed with cutlasses, and during the palaver flourished
+them about (not however in a threatening manner), but the Lord
+graciously preserved me from fear, and kept my mind in perfect peace. Oh
+what a blessedness to be able to rest on the arms of Him who is powerful
+to save! Not one of our party had a weapon of any description. On
+leaving Bimbia, I strictly enjoined John King not to carry guns, swords,
+or cutlasses, assuring him that God, whom I loved and served, and whose
+truth I was going to declare, would protect and preserve us; and I have
+no doubt that our defenceless state tended more to disarm the Bwea
+people than anything else.[147] I do hope that all our missionaries who
+may come to Africa will be members of the Peace Society. After a long
+and noisy discussion, in which John King, Copper, and a few others of
+the men who conducted me, nearly talked themselves out of breath, the
+Bwea men withdrew and held a private consultation. At this juncture
+Smith became alarmed for our safety, and on my return from the mountain
+told Mr. Ducket that he was just waiting to know the result of the
+conference of the Bwea men, and, if they had resolved on killing us, he
+intended to request them to destroy him first, that he might not endure
+the pain of seeing me put to death. Smith’s fears were, however, quite
+groundless. I do not think that the people had the remotest intention of
+hurting a hair of our heads. All they wanted was the contents of our
+boxes, and, not being able to frighten me into submission, they withdrew
+to come to some decision respecting the mode of bringing the palaver to
+a close. They soon returned, and said that, as I was unwilling to give
+them more cloth, they would be satisfied with a book (certificate)
+stating that I had visited the mountain from their district, in order
+that they might show it to any white man that might come after me. I
+very soon furnished the ‘book,’ when our carriers were permitted to
+leave, but we had only walked a short distance when one of our people
+was stopped by Dickenye’s brothers, because he said he had not received
+a shirt. The fact is, this man took a fancy to Smith’s flannel shirt,
+and requested me to give him one like it. On leaving I borrowed Smith’s
+flannel, and gave it to him, but after receiving it he was quite
+dissatisfied, and said he wanted a shirt similar to those the other
+chiefs had received, but, as all of that description were distributed, I
+could not comply with his request. He was, however, determined to get a
+shirt, and therefore followed us after we left his brother’s town, and
+stopped one of the boxes; Copper directly drew off his shirt and gave it
+to Bunggome, but took good care to secure for himself the flannel shirt,
+which is of more value than the one with which he parted.[148] We left
+Dickenye’s town at twenty-five minutes before eight, and after passing a
+town in the Bwea district entered the Bokwei district at half-past
+eight; and after leaving the towns of Morio and Namunde, entered the
+Bakuku district at five minutes before nine, and arrived at Junge’s town
+at two minutes before nine. We again reached Manja’s place at seven
+minutes after nine. The old man appeared happy to see me, and pressed me
+to remain over the night, expecting no doubt another present in the
+event of my doing so; but I told him I could not by any means stop, as I
+was anxious to get down as early as possible.
+
+‘After breakfast our party prepared to leave Manja’s town, but one of
+his men, who had accompanied us to Bwea, stopped our boxes, because he
+had not in his opinion been sufficiently remunerated for his services.
+This man was not at all engaged by us, but, contrary to my desire, was
+sent by Manja to accompany us to Bwea. On my return to his town I made
+him a suitable present, but he would not allow us to proceed till he had
+received some cloth. During my journey I had to protest against people
+following me from different towns, who desired to do so, without at all
+being required, for the purpose of getting something. Unless the African
+traveller is watchful, he will at the end of his different journeys find
+many more servants in his employ than he set out with. Manja did all in
+his power to prevent Singga from stopping us, but such is the small
+influence and power of the old chief that he could not succeed.
+
+‘At twenty minutes before two we left Manja’s town, and, travelling
+through the Bakuku district, passed Mokeba’s town at five minutes before
+two, and at two crossed a small stream. It is perhaps necessary to note
+here that all the streams which we crossed to-day were small. Crossed a
+stream at twenty-eight minutes after two. At half-past two left Pende-
+Dikoba’s town. Crossed a stream twenty-five minutes before three, and
+another at twenty minutes before three, called Wangge, and entered the
+Bunjoku district.
+
+‘At five minutes after three passed Ekanye’s town, and shortly after
+that of Ebisa. There is a small house a few yards from the latter town.
+The road in this district is much better than any I have travelled over
+since I left Bimbia.
+
+‘At ten minutes before four entered the Bunjumba district, and passed
+the town of Ipike. At three minutes before four passed in sight of
+Dibesse’s town, near which is that of Matande.[149] Crossed a stream
+called Wende at five minutes after four. At ten minutes after four
+passed in sight of Ngake’s town, and entered the Minyarri-Munggo
+district. Eighteen minutes after four we passed three towns together.
+The names of the chiefs are Dikri and Ngande. A short distance from
+these towns we passed in sight of the house of Ekuba-Kuba, and a few
+minutes after passed the town of Musio.
+
+‘At half-past four arrived at a town whose chief, Dibutu Lanja, had died
+three days ago. The usual funeral ceremonies were being performed when
+we arrived, which were exceedingly ill adapted to the occasion. From
+five to six hundred people were assembled on an oblong piece of ground,
+and, amidst the noise of drums and the greatest confusion, danced up and
+down in the most ludicrous manner. A group of ten met together, and
+raising up their right hand struck it against the hand of each other
+till the ceremony of striking hands had been performed throughout the
+whole group.
+
+‘On my arrival I was conducted to the house of a man called Foke, a
+short distance from the scene of the funeral ceremonies, lest, as I was
+told, my presence should attract the attention of the people, and thus
+put an end to their mirth. Many followed me, to whom I showed the
+letters of the alphabet, and my Isubu lesson. My watch as usual was
+quite an object of wonder and amazement. Unable to obtain a sight of me,
+some of the boys, Zaccheus like, climbed on trees to gratify their
+curiosity. Being anxious to see the whole of the funeral ceremony, I got
+up to walk to the place where the people were dancing, but Foke would
+not allow me to go. However, shortly after, Madiba, whose town I visited
+before going to the Camaroons Mountains, and to whom I have already
+alluded, came up, and, taking me by the hand, conducted me to the scene
+of action, and thus afforded me an opportunity of seeing all that was
+going on. I had not sat long before the man who was to succeed the
+deceased chief made his appearance in a soldier’s coat. A man held an
+umbrella over his head, and followed wherever he went. In a stooping
+posture the new chief ran among the crowd amidst the caressing of
+several young women, striking hands with all who presented theirs to
+him.
+
+‘After a great deal of noise and dancing, silence was commanded, when
+Madiba, being master of the ceremonies, arose to speak, but before he
+commenced his address he picked up a pebble, and spitting upon it,
+placed it under his foot, and then walked up and down the avenue,
+speaking as he walked along. He said that Dibutu Lanja had died three
+days ago, and had left so many pieces of cloth (I do not recollect the
+number), pigs, sheep, and goats, and that during his illness two of his
+goats had been killed for him. Madiba having finished his address,
+several of the people exclaimed, “He, he,” yes, yes; shortly after which
+the party began to disperse.
+
+‘I understand that on the death of a chief or master of a town, all his
+property, which generally consists of cloth, pigs, goats, and sheep, is
+distributed among his relatives and friends, and nothing is thought so
+honourable to a man as to be able on his death to leave a great deal of
+property for distribution. All the cloth which Dibutu Lanja possessed
+was on his death exhibited to the public for inspection, but was taken
+in before my arrival. I, however, saw his pigs, sheep, and goats, all of
+which were tied to stakes placed in the ground for the purpose.
+
+‘At the close of the ceremonies, Copper, Smith, and I left for Ebore’s
+town, where we intended to sleep. Madiba on his way home walked with us
+a part of the road, and was very attentive and affectionate. On leaving
+us he inquired whether I did not intend to come and see him on the
+morrow. I promised to do so, and told him, in Isubu, as I best could,
+that I hoped he would love God, and give Him his heart. As I walked
+along, I began to think that the kindness and affection manifested by
+Madiba that evening (so contrary to his reserve and apparent sullenness
+when I visited his town a few days ago), proceeded from God, who I
+thought was moving his heart to favour us. I there resolved, if I saw it
+my duty, to ask him for some land on which to establish our first
+missionary station at Bwengga, which is a well-populated district, and
+where the inhabitants are not so widely scattered as in other parts of
+the country. The attention of our missionaries, as soon as they settle
+in the interior, must be directed to the concentrating of the
+population, or their work will be considerably increased. It will of
+course be a work of time, but with perseverance will I hope be effected.
+
+‘We left the town of the deceased man at fifteen minutes before six,
+and, after crossing a stream and passing three towns, arrived safely at
+Ebore’s place at about half-past six. Our dinner consisted of ripe
+plantains, palm-oil, and palm-nuts, after which we retired to rest
+thoroughly wearied.
+
+                                                   ‘Tuesday, April 30th.
+
+‘The selection of a place in the Bwengga district for the establishment
+of a station pressed much on my mind all the morning. Ebore is very
+willing to give land, and would be glad to see a missionary settled at
+his place; but his town is situated on an unfrequented spot, and is
+therefore ill adapted for a missionary. On the contrary, Madiba’s town
+is near the highway which leads to the Bwengga market, and consequently
+is the resort of many people.
+
+‘After making Ebore another present, our party left his town at fifteen
+minutes before one, and proceeded to Madiba’s. On our way we crossed the
+stream which we passed last evening on our return to Ebore’s place. This
+stream supplies Madiba’s town and the adjacent ones with water; it is
+very small, and I was fearful that during the dry season it ceased to
+flow, but Copper informed me that it never dries.
+
+‘I met a very warm reception from Madiba on my arrival, and, after a
+short conversation respecting the object of my visit, I gave him an
+excellent wrapper and a child’s garment. I then stated that I was
+desirous, if agreeable to him, to establish a missionary station near
+his town for the purpose of imparting to him and all the people of the
+district the knowledge of the true God, for I well knew that unless they
+became acquainted with God, and served Him with their hearts, they could
+neither be happy in this life nor after death. I then inquired whether
+he would give me land on which to build, &c. He most readily assented to
+my proposition, and, requesting me to follow him, showed me the land
+which he would give when we were ready to settle. I suppose he walked
+over ground about the sixth of a mile in length, and, pointing to the
+right and left, said, “This is yours—this is yours.” On our return to
+Madiba’s house I requested Copper to tell him plainly that he and his
+people were not to expect presents from the God-men who might come to
+reside at his town—that we did not intend to trade, but that our sole
+object was to impart religious instruction. Madiba replied that he heard
+what I had said, and would communicate the intelligence to all the
+people. Shortly after, he asked John King whether, like some of the
+white men who came to Bimbia to trade, I was in the habit of beating
+black men; and on being told I was entirely different from such men, he
+said he believed so, or I would not have brought them such good news
+respecting a future state.
+
+‘With earnest longings for the enlightenment and conversion of Madiba,
+we left his town at three minutes before five, and eleven minutes after
+five entered the Bunjo district, and passed the towns of Bepingge and
+Bomani, which are very near each other. Seventeen minutes after five we
+arrived at Mekwalle’s town. This man is the father of Bepingge and
+Bomani, and is the most healthy individual in that part of the country.
+He is advanced in age, and according to the course of nature cannot be
+far from the gates of death. I explained to him the objects of my visit,
+and requested him to assemble his people, which he readily promised to
+do after dinner. At the appointed time about eighty people assembled,
+and listened very patiently to the solemn truths of the Gospel, but
+would not at all believe that Christian teachers would in time settle
+among them. I am not at all surprised at their incredulity, for,
+unacquainted as they are with the benevolence which the Gospel
+inculcates, it cannot but appear an anomalous thing that people should
+leave their country and come to reside among them, not for the purpose
+of gain, but only to do them good.
+
+                                                      ‘Wednesday, May 1.
+
+‘Early this morning Madiba came to see me, and evinced much affection.
+May the Lord move his heart to favour the missionaries who may settle in
+his district, and not only so, but renew his mind, and adopt him into
+His family!
+
+‘At seven o’clock our party left Mekwalle’s town. Five minutes after
+eight we passed a large farm in the Bunjo district. Indeed, from this
+time till half-past nine, we passed a number of farms, some of them
+rather extensive. The country in this district is well wooded.
+
+‘Ten minutes before nine we entered the Mobeta district. Seeing one of
+our carriers with a few plantains, and knowing that he had taken them
+from the farm through which we were passing, I mentioned the
+circumstance to John King, in order that he might speak to the man about
+the impropriety of taking what was not his; but learnt that any person
+in passing a farm may, if hungry, take a few plantains, or canes, or any
+other edible, without being regarded as a thief.
+
+‘At fifteen minutes before ten we came in sight of a large stream
+running in a south-easterly direction, called Kumbe. The river and
+country in its vicinity reminded me much of the Bog Walk River in
+Jamaica, and induced a few thoughts respecting my dear native country.
+Twenty-five minutes before eleven we crossed the stream just alluded to,
+which is about forty yards at the fording. A splendid settlement might
+be formed on the banks of this river. The country is well wooded, the
+soil excellent, and there is abundance of water.
+
+‘Ten minutes after twelve we crossed a stream. Near the fording was a
+beautiful waterfall. The fall is about twenty feet, and at the landing
+of the water there is a basin about sixty yards in circumference.
+
+‘Twenty-five minutes before one we entered the Gijanga district, and
+crossed a small stream called Musunggu. Ten minutes before one we came
+in sight of another creek, and crossed a small stream which flows into
+the creek. We arrived at Bupe’s town in the Gyangu[150] district at
+eight minutes after one. There are three towns near each other in this
+district, whose chiefs are called Bupe, Ngeke, and Ekeme. Shortly after
+entering the Mobeta district I discovered that John King, in order to
+arrive home to-day, had passed through a wood; so that from the time we
+left Mokwelle’s town in the morning, we did not see a single person till
+we arrived at the Gyangu district, which is situated on the coast, a
+short distance north of King William’s town. The sea being too high to
+enable us to walk along the beach to Dick Merchant’s town, from whence
+there is a road or tract to King William’s place, our party got into a
+canoe, and returned home by sea.
+
+‘We arrived safely at King John’s town about half-past four, where I met
+Mr. Ducket on his way to Macko’s town to instruct the people, and was
+thankful and happy to find him in good health and spirits. On reaching
+King William’s town the children ran from all directions to greet me,
+and seemed very glad that I had returned in safety. I assembled them in
+the house, sung one of their school-songs, and dismissed them with
+prayer.
+
+‘Thus, my dear sir, I have endeavoured to furnish a brief, and I fear an
+uninteresting, account of my tour. The grand object of my visit has,
+however, been attained, and with that I am satisfied. I have discovered
+that the way is opened for the introduction of the Gospel from Bimbia to
+the Camaroons Mountains, and, I have no doubt, much further in the
+interior. Land has been received for the establishment of our first
+station, where I hope myself to settle in a short time, and from whence
+the glorious Gospel will yet diffuse itself far and wide, not only among
+the Isubu tribes, but among other nations of Africa. May the great Head
+of the Church qualify us for our work by imparting every necessary grace
+and gift! I need hardly tell you that much devolves on our dear friends
+in England, Jamaica, and other parts of the world, where they know and
+experience the blessedness of the Gospel. Oh, that the Church may always
+be found at her post, and daily become more diligent and zealous in this
+best of all works! I cannot too strongly press upon the Christian public
+the necessity of furnishing garments for distribution in Africa. Our
+female friends in England and Scotland have already exerted themselves
+nobly in this benevolent work, but I hope they will continue to send
+other supplies from time to time.
+
+‘I must not forget to mention that one of the most pleasing facts which
+I learnt in my journey was, that there were very few slaves in that part
+of the country. When the people were at one time very noisy at Manja’s
+place, I requested John King, if possible, to command silence. His reply
+was, “Oh, what a pity all the people in the bush are free!—we cannot get
+them to be quiet when we like.” The information made my heart leap for
+joy, and rendered the noise far less disagreeable than I at first
+considered it.
+
+‘The districts I have visited are to the north-west of Bimbia. I
+expected before now to have seen several others to the south-west, but
+the arrival of dear brother Clarke on the 1st instant, with the house
+which was given him by the Jericho people, and which is being erected
+here, has hindered me from carrying my intention into effect, my time
+being now occupied in looking after the building.’
+
+
+[Footnote 125: Up the Bimbia or Little Camaroons River, turning to the
+left (ascending) on the mountain-side.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 126: Every soul dead—after twenty years or so!—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 127: It is on the left or west of Victoria Bay.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 128: The same is the case with Bosumbo, Mapanya, &c.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 129: In Africa, as in India, any fellow-tribeman is a
+brother.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 130: Polite to his hospitable hosts!—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 131: So the Morocco women say of their European sisters that
+they dress in rags.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 132: These two questions are most characteristically African.
+They can hardly believe in a non-eating or non-marrying being, which to
+them becomes a nonentity.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 133: I presume the Colocasia esculenta.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 134: ‘The Moriko and Bakuku district is the same, but is
+called by two names.’ [I much doubt this.—R. B.]]
+
+[Footnote 135: It is high up and to the east of the mountain, which the
+Bwea people, who are now on bad terms with those of Mapanya, cross to
+the west. M. Mann’s cowardly Krumen ran away probably from a Bwea
+man.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 136: During our ascent the report was that we were finding
+silks, cloth, wire, beads, &c.—gold and silver are unknown here—on the
+Camaroons. Thus only could the people explain our visiting it.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 137: They probably never took the trouble to sow them.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 138: Note by Mr. Merrick.—‘Whenever an Isubu (Bimbia) man
+dies, all the cloth he possesses is spread out on the housetop and
+exposed to public view. In accordance with this custom the Bwea men
+think that the genii of the mountains entertain so much respect for
+their chiefs as on their death to exhibit a variety of cloths.’]
+
+[Footnote 139: Conference.]
+
+[Footnote 140: It is a wild custom not known to the Duallas of the
+Camaroons River.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 141: Obásí, God—plur. Báobásí—á, of; and Lobá, heaven.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 142: There are also towns of this name on the east of the
+mountain.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 143: Prop. Moonggo, plur. Mionggoo.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 144: ‘Alluding to the plants which I brought down with
+me.’—M.]
+
+[Footnote 145: ‘This district is some distance to the north of
+Bwea.’—M.]
+
+[Footnote 146: Dibombe is an Isubu statute, which originated a few years
+ago in a dream. One Mfá má Ile, a man of the Ekombi district inland and
+north of Bimbia, saw a vision in which many dead men warned him of the
+evil of murdering or maiming, and that the bush people were to hang or
+wound the criminal only, not his innocent relations. The wholesome law
+is now, I fear, in abeyance.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 147: Our party found it very different.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 148: The shirt is still a favourite present: it makes a
+gentleman.—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 149: This shows the size of the ‘towns.’—R. B.]
+
+[Footnote 150: Generally called Jángí.—R. B.]
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX III.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+ENUMERATION of the MOUNTAIN FLOWERING PLANTS and FERNS collected by M.
+GUSTAV MANN, Government Botanist, during his various ascents of the
+Camaroons Mountains, of Clarence Peak, Fernando Po, and of the Peak of
+San Thomé. By J. D. HOOKER, M.D., F.R.S. and L.S., &c.
+
+
+  The figures denote the elevations at which the species were found.
+
+  F. signifies Fernando Po.
+
+  C.     „    Camaroons Mountains.
+
+  S. T.     „    Peak of San Thomé.
+
+      Clematis simensis, Fres.                            F. C. 4-8,000
+
+      Thalictrum rhyncocarpum, A. R.                     F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Ranunculus pinnatus, Poir. var.                          F. 8,000
+
+      Stephania hernandifolia, Wall.                      F. C. 3-7,000
+
+      Cardamine hirsuta, L.                              F. C. 7-10,000
+
+          „     Africana, var.                                 F. 7,500
+
+      Viola Abyssinica, Steud.                            F. C. 7-1,000
+
+      Pittosporum Mannii, n. sp.                            F. C. 8,500
+
+      Polygala tenuicaulis, n. sp.                             C. 7,000
+
+   10 Silene Biafræ, n. sp.                                 C. 8-10,000
+
+      Cerastium vulgatum, L.                                   C. 8,000
+
+      Stellaria drynarioides, n. sp.                           C. 7,000
+
+      Arenaria Africana, n. sp.                             C. 7-10,000
+
+      Sagina Abyssinica, Hochst.                         F. C. 8-11,000
+
+      Drynaria condata, Willd.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Hypericum angustifolium, Lamk.                     F. C. 4-10,000
+
+      Radiola millegrana, L.                                   C. 7,000
+
+      Geranium Emirnense, Hils. and Boj.                       F. 8,500
+
+      Geranium Simense, Hochst.                                C. 7,000
+
+   20    „     favosum, Hochst.                                C. 7,000
+
+      Oxalis corniculata, L.                              F. C. 7-8,500
+
+      Impatiens Sakeriana, n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+          „     filicornu, n. sp.                            F. 4-5,000
+
+      Clausena inæqualis, Benth.                             C. 7-7,500
+
+      Brucea antidysenterica, Mill.                          C. 7-7,500
+
+      Gomphia micrantha, n. sp.                                F. 5,000
+
+      Ilex Capensis, S. and H.                               C. 4-7,500
+
+      Vitis cyphopetala, Fres.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Schmidelia Abyssinica, Hochst.                         C. 7-7,500
+
+   30 Adenocarpus Mannii, n. sp.                         F. C. 7-12,000
+
+      Trifolium subrotundum, St. and Hoch.                     F. 9,000
+
+          „     Simense, Fres.                            F. C. 7-8,500
+
+      Indigofera atriceps, n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+      Desmodium strangulatum, W. and A.                      C. 2-7,000
+
+      Shuteria Africana, n. sp.                                C. 7,000
+
+      Dalbergia, n. sp.                                        C. 5,000
+
+      Rubus apetalus, Poir.                               F. C. 4-9,000
+
+      Alchemilla tenuicaulis, n. sp.                      F. C. 7-7,500
+
+      Pygeum Africanum, n. sp.                               C. 7-7,500
+
+   40 Tillæa alsinoides, n. sp.                                F. 7,500
+
+        „    pharnaceoides, Hochst.                            C. 7,000
+
+        „    pentandra, Royle                                  C. 8,000
+
+      Umbilicus pendulinus, D. C.                           C. 7-10,000
+
+      Crassula Mannii, n. sp.                               C. 6-10,000
+
+      Kalanchœ Ægyptiaca, D. C.                              C. 3-7,000
+
+      Mukia, n. sp.                                         F. C. 7,000
+
+      Bryonia, n. sp.                                           C.    ?
+
+      Hydrocotyle, n. sp.                                      F. 7,000
+
+          „        Americana, L.?                              F. 8,500
+
+   50 Sanicula Europæa, L.                                F. C. 4-7,500
+
+      Agrocharis melanantha, Hochst.                      F. C. 7-8,000
+
+      Pimpinella oreophila, n. sp.                         F. C. 10,000
+
+      Peucedanum Petitianum, A. R.                           F. 9-9,500
+
+      Anthriscus Africanus, n. sp.                           C. 4-7,000
+
+      Paratropia Mannii, n. sp.                           F. C. 5-7,000
+
+          „      elata, n. sp.                                 C. 7,500
+
+      Loranthus oreophilus, Oliv.                            C. 6-8,000
+
+      Baconia montana, n. sp.                                  C. 7,000
+
+      Ixora                                                    C. 5,000
+
+   60 Vignaldia occidentals, n. sp.                       F. C. 7-9,000
+
+      Anthospermum asperuloides, n. sp.                 F. C. 10-12,000
+
+      Galium rotundifolium, L.                           F. C. 7-12,000
+
+        „    aparine, L.                                 F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Scabiosa succisa, L.                                    C. 10,500
+
+      Vernonia myriantha, n. sp.                          F. C. 3-7,000
+
+         „     blumeoides, n. sp.                            C. 4-7,000
+
+         „     Mannii, n. sp.                                  C. 7,000
+
+         „     Clarenceana, n. sp.                       F. 7,500-8,500
+
+      Stengelia nobilis, n. sp.                        C. 2-5,000-7,000
+
+          „     insignis, n. sp.                             C. 3-7,000
+
+      Adenostemma viscosum, Forst.                        F. C. 2-8,000
+
+   70 Mikania chenopodifolia, Willd.                         C. 4-7,000
+
+      Microglossa densiflora, n. sp.                           C. 7,000
+
+      Dichrocephala latifolia, D. C.                           C. 7,000
+
+           „        chrysanthemifolia, D. C.                   C. 7,000
+
+           „        oblonga, n. sp.                           F. 10,700
+
+      Blumea alata, D. C.                                    C. 7-8,000
+
+      Verbesina monticola, n. sp.                            C. 5-7,000
+
+      Telekia Africana, n. sp.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Helichrysum Mannii, n. sp.                         F. C. 8-13,000
+
+          „       fœtidum, Cass.                         F. C. 4-10,000
+
+   80     „       Hochstetteri, Sch.                      F. C. 7-8,500
+
+          „       chrysocoma, Sch.                       F. C. 7-11,000
+
+          „       globosum, Sch.                         F. C. 7-10,000
+
+          „       Biafranum, n. sp.                            C. 7,000
+
+      Gynura vitellina, Bth.                              F. C. 2-8,500
+
+      Senecio Clarenceana, n. sp.                        F. C. 7-11,000
+
+         „    Mannii, n. sp.                             F. C. 25-7,500
+
+         „    Bojeri, D. C.                                    C. 7,000
+
+         „    Burtoni, n. sp.                               C. 8-12,000
+
+      Lactuca Capensis, Th.                                  C. 5-7,500
+
+   90    „    glandulifera, n. sp.                           C. 7-8,000
+
+      Sonchus angustissimus, n. sp.                          C. 7-8,000
+
+      Anisoramphus hypochæroides, D. C.                     C. 7-13,500
+
+      Wahlenbergia polyclada, n. sp.                      F. C. 7-8,000
+
+           „       arguta, n. sp.                         F. C. 7-9,000
+
+      Cephalostigma Perottetii, A. D. C.                       C. 7,000
+
+      Lobelia columnaris, n. sp.                            F. C. 7,000
+
+         „    acutidens, n. sp.                                F. 9,000
+
+      Leucothoe angustifolia, D. C.                       F. C. 4-9,000
+
+      Blæria spicata, Hochst.                           F. C. 10-10,700
+
+  100 Ericinella Mannii, n. sp.                          F. C. 4-11,000
+
+      Ardisiandra Sibthorpioides, n. sp.                  F. C. 7-7,500
+
+      Mæsa Indica, A. D. C.                               F. C. 5-7,000
+
+      Myrsine melanophlœos, Br.                              C. 4-7,500
+
+      Anthocleista scandens, n. sp.                            F. 5,000
+
+      Nuxia congesta, Br.                                    C. 7-7,500
+
+      Sebæa brachyphylla, Griseb.                        F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Swertia pumila, Hochst.                               C. 8-10,000
+
+         „    Mannii, n. sp.                                 C. 7-8,000
+
+         „    Clarenceana, n. sp.                        F. C. 6-10,700
+
+  110 Cynoglossum micranthum, Desf.                          C. 7-8,000
+
+           „      lancifolium, n. sp.                        C. 7-8,000
+
+      Myosotis stricta, Link.                            F. C. 8-10,000
+
+      Limosella aquatica, L.                                F. 9-10,000
+
+      Veronica Mannii, n. sp.                            F. C. 7-10,700
+
+         „     Africana, n. sp.                                C. 7,000
+
+      Sibthorpia Europæa, L.                              F. C. 7-7,500
+
+      Celsia densifolia, n. sp.                                F. 8,500
+
+      Alectra Senegalensis, Roth.                              C. 7,000
+
+      Bartsia Abyssinica, Hochst.                            C. 7-9,000
+
+  120 Sopubia Madagascariensis, Roth.                        C. 6-7,000
+
+      Plectranthus glandulosus, n. sp.                      F. C. 7,000
+
+           „       insignis, n. sp.                            C. 7,000
+
+           „       ramosissimus, n. sp.                   F. C. 5-7,000
+
+           „       decumbens, n. sp.                           C. 7,000
+
+      Coleus glandulosus, n. sp.                         C. 2,500-7,000
+
+        „    tenuicaulis, n. sp.                               C. 7,000
+
+        „    Mannii, n. sp.                                  C. 5-6,000
+
+      Pycnostachys Abyssinica, Fres.                      F. C. 6-7,000
+
+      Micromeria punctata, Br.                              C. 7-10,000
+
+  130 Calamintha Simensis, Br.                           F. C. 7-10,500
+
+      Nepeta robusta, n. sp.                                 C. 6-8,000
+
+      Stachys aculeolata, n. sp.                               F. 9,000
+
+      Leucas deflexa, n. sp.                                   C. 7,000
+
+        „    oligocephala, n. sp.                            C. 7-8,000
+
+      Solanum nigrum, L.                                    C. 7-10,000
+
+         „    Indicum, L.                                 F. C. 6-7,000
+
+      Discopodium penninervium, Hochst.                   F. C. 4-7,000
+
+      Utricularia orbiculata, Wall.                            C. 5,000
+
+          „          „        n. sp.                         C. 4-6,000
+
+      Plantago palmata, n. sp.                            F. C. 7-8,000
+
+  140 Rumex Abyssinicus, Jacq.                               C. 4-7,000
+
+        „   obtusifolius, L. var.                              C. 7,000
+
+      Polygonum Nepalense, Meism.                              F. 7,500
+
+      Achyranthes argentea, L.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Cyathula cylindrica, Moq.                          F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Lasiosiphon glaucus, Fres.                             C. 7-7,500
+
+      Peddiea parviflora, n. sp.                               F. 5,000
+
+      Thesium tenuissimum, n. sp.                         F. C. 8-9,000
+
+      Euphorbia ampla, n. sp.                             F. C. 7-8,500
+
+      Phyllanthus, n. sp.                                      C. 7,000
+
+  150 Claoxylon Mannii, n. sp.                                 F. 5,000
+
+      Parietaria Mauritanica, L.                          C. F. 7-8,000
+
+          „      debilis, Forst.                                C.    ?
+
+      Laportea alatipes, n. sp.                                C. 7,000
+
+      Elatostemma monticola, n. sp.                            C. 7,000
+
+      Pilea quadrifolia, A. Rich.                              C. 7,000
+
+      Myrica salicifolia, Hochst.                            C. 7-8,000
+
+      Lecanthus Wightii, Wedd.                                 F. 7,500
+
+      Urera       „      n. sp.                                C. 5,000
+
+      Peperomia Mannii, n. sp.                               C. 7-8,000
+
+  160     „     monticola, n. sp.                              C. 8,000
+
+      Coccobryon Capense, Kl.                                  C. 7,000
+
+      Podocarpus Mannii, n. sp.                              S. T.    ?
+
+      Liparis Capensis, Lindl.                               C. 6-7,000
+
+      Bolbophyllum tenuicaule, n. sp.                          F. 5,000
+
+           „       Mannii, n. sp.                            F. 4-5,000
+
+           „       monticolum, n. sp.                          C. 5,000
+
+           „       aurantiacum, n. sp.                       C. 5-6,000
+
+           „       bifarium, n. sp.                            C. 5,000
+
+           „         „       n. sp.                            C. 5,000
+
+  170 Angræcum arcuatum, Lindl.                              C. 4-6,000
+
+          „       „      n. sp.                                C. 5,000
+
+      Polystachys Alpina, Lindl.                               F. 6,000
+
+            „       „                                          C. 5,000
+
+            „       „                                          C. 5,000
+
+            „       „                                          C. 5,000
+
+            „       „                                          C. 5,000
+
+            „       „                                          C. 5,000
+
+      Calanthe corymbosa, n. sp.                               F. 5,000
+
+      Disa alpina, n. sp.                                      C. 7,000
+
+  180 Peristylus 3-dentatus, n. sp.                            C. 7,000
+
+      Habenaria debilis, n. sp.                                C. 7,000
+
+         „      attenuata, n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+         „      microceras, n. sp.                             C. 7,000
+
+         „      præalta, Lindb.                               F. 10,000
+
+         „      Mannii, n. sp.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Trichonema bubocodium.                                 C. 7-9,000
+
+      Geissorhiza alpina, n. sp.                            C. 9-10,000
+
+      Hypoxis villosa, L.                                    C. 7-7,500
+
+      Melanthium tenue, n. sp.                                 F. 9,000
+
+  190 Commelyna, n. sp.?.                                      C. 7,000
+
+      Cyanotis Abyssinica, A. Rich.                       F. C. 7-9,000
+
+      Juncus capitatus, Wieg.                                  C. 7,000
+
+      Lugula campestris, L.                              F. C. 8-10,000
+
+      Cyperus elegantulus, Steud.                              F. 8,500
+
+         „    ingratus, Kth.                              F. C. 6-7,000
+
+         „    adœnsis, Hoch.                                   F. 8,500
+
+      Kyllingia macrocephala                                F. C. 7,000
+
+      Isolepis capillaris, R. and S.                     F. C. 8-10,500
+
+         „     schœnoides, Kth.                           F. C. 7-9,000
+
+  200 Carex cruciata, var?                                  St. T.    ?
+
+        „   Wahlenbergiana, Boott.                             F. 8,000
+
+        „   Boryana, Schk.                               F. 7,500-8,500
+
+        „   Æthiopica, Schk.                                C. 7-10,000
+
+        „   Echinochlœ, Kunth.                                 C. 7,000
+
+      Panicum Hochstetteri, Steud.                             C. 7,000
+
+         „    acrotrichum, n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+         „    monticolum, n. sp.                               C. 7,000
+
+         „    pusillum, n. sp.                               C. 7-8,000
+
+      Isachne refracta, n. sp.                                 C. 7,000
+
+  210 Pennisetum riparioides, Hoch.?                         C. 7-8,000
+
+      Vilfa montana, n. sp.                                  C. 7-9,000
+
+      Deyeuxia Mannii, n. sp.                            F. C. 8-13,500
+
+      Microchloa setacea, Br.                                  C. 7,000
+
+      Deschampsia cæspitosa, P. B.                       F. C. 9-12,000
+
+      Aira caryophyllea, L.                                  C. 7-8,000
+
+       „   pictigluma, Steud.                               C. 9-13,500
+
+      Avena lachnantha, Hoch.                             C. F. 7-9,000
+
+        „   Neesii, Steud.                                   C. 7-8,000
+
+      Loudetia elegans, Hoch.                                  C. 7,000
+
+  220 Danthonia streblochæte, H.                               C. 8,000
+
+      Poa nemoralis, L.                                  F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Kœleria cristata, Pers.                               C. 8-12,000
+
+      Vulpia bromoides, Pal.                                C. 7-10,000
+
+      Festuca Simensis, Hoch.                             F. C. 7-8,500
+
+         „    gigantea, Vill.                                  F. 8,500
+
+         „    Schimperiana, A. R.                        F. C. 8-13,500
+
+      Tripogon major, n. sp.                                 C. 7-8,000
+
+      Bromus scabridus, n. sp.                               C. 7-8,000
+
+      Brachypodium sylvaticum, Pal.                            F. 7,000
+
+  230 Andropogon distachyus, L.                                C. 7,000
+
+          „      brachyatherus, Hoch.?                         C. 8,000
+
+          „      Mannii, n. sp.                          F. 8,500-9,000
+
+          „      Smithianus, n. sp.                            C. 7,000
+
+          „      pusillus, n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+  235 Arundinella elegantula, n. sp.                         C. 6-7,000
+
+
+                                FILICES.
+
+
+      Gleichenia dichotoma                             S. T. from 7,000
+
+      Cyathea, n. sp.                                     St. T. F. C.?
+
+      Adiantum Æthiopicum                                      C. 7,000
+
+      Lonchitis glabra                                S. T. C. F. 7,000
+
+      Hypolepis pteridioides                                   C. 7,000
+
+      Cheilanthes farinosa                                  C. 7-10,000
+
+      Pellæa hirsuta                                           C. 7,000
+
+      Pteris quadri-aurita                                     C. 7,000
+
+        „    flabellata                                        F. 7,000
+
+        „    aquilina                                          C. 7,000
+
+      Asplenium anisophyllum                                 C. 3-7,000
+
+          „     erectum                                   F. C. 3-7,000
+
+          „     monanthum                                      F. 8,000
+
+          „     protensum                                   F. C. 7,000
+
+          „     Serra                                     F. C. 3-7,000
+
+          „     furcatum, var.                                 C. 8,000
+
+          „     Adiantum-nigrum                               C. 10,000
+
+          „     Abyssinicum                               F. C. 3-7,000
+
+          „     brachypterum                                 C. 3-7,000
+
+          „     Filix-fœmina                                   C. 7,000
+
+          „     aspidioides                               F. C. 5-7,000
+
+      Aspidium aculeatum                                 F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Nephrodium crini-bulbon                          S. T. C. 4-7,000
+
+          „      filix-mas                                  S. T. 6,000
+
+          „      inæquale                                F. C. 7-10,000
+
+      Nephrolepis tuberosa                             S. T. C. 4-5,000
+
+      Polypodium villosissimum                             St. T. 6,000
+
+          „      rugulosum                                     F. 7,000
+
+          „          „     n. sp.                              C. 7,000
+
+          „      oppositifolium                             S. T. 5,000
+
+      Pleopeltis lanceolata                                    C. 7,000
+
+          „      nuda                                  S. T. F. 3-5,000
+
+      Gymnogramme Javanica                          S. T. F. C. 3-7,000
+
+           „      Totta                                   F. C. 1-7,000
+
+           „      lanceolata                              F. C. 3-7,000
+
+      Elaphoglossum hybridum                              F. C. 4-8,000
+
+            „       splendens                             F. C. 5-7,000
+
+      Acrostichum sorbifolium                                F. 5-7,000
+
+      Ophioglossum reticulatum                                F. 10,500
+
+      Lycopodium crassum                                     C. 1-5,000
+
+      Selaginella, sp.?                                        F. 8,000
+
+           „      sp.?                                      S. T. 5,000
+
+
+
+
+                              APPENDIX IV.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+NOTES on certain MAMMALIA, BIRDS, SNAKES, and LANDSHELLS collected on
+CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS, by Captain BURTON, H.M. Consul, Fernando Po. By Dr.
+G. R. GRAY, and Dr. WM. BAIRD.
+
+
+    (Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London, 1862, p. 180.)
+
+
+_Crocidura Morio_, sp. nov.
+
+  Uniform rather brownish black, rather paler and browner beneath. Teeth
+  white. Feet very slender, weak. Tail nearly as long as the body and
+  head, very slender, annulated, covered with very short closely
+  adpressed hair.
+
+  Length of body and head, dry, 2¾ inches; tail, dry, 2 inches.
+
+  ‘_Mole_ from Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the
+  sea, January 1862.’
+
+
+_Sciurus Isabella_, sp. nov.
+
+  Yellowish brown, minutely grizzled, with four broad dorsal streaks—the
+  two central from the crown of the head to the base of the tail, the
+  side ones from the shoulder only; the underside whitish grey. Tail
+  slightly annulated.
+
+  Length of body and head 7 inches; tail 5 inches.
+
+  ‘_Squirrel_ from the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of
+  the sea, January 1862.’
+
+  I have great pleasure in naming this beautiful new species after Mrs.
+  Isabel Burton,—her husband, the discoverer of it, having requested
+  that any novelty that might be in the list should be so named.
+
+
+_Anomalurus Beecroftii_, Fraser.
+
+  ‘A _Flying Squirrel_, shot in the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above
+  the level of the sea. Colour of the eyes dark grey. January 18, 1862.’
+
+
+_Mus Maura_, sp. nov.
+
+  Fur very soft and silky; above black, slightly marked with brown from
+  the minute brown tips of the hairs; beneath whitish—the hair of the
+  underside black, white-tipped. Teeth very narrow, orange. Ears
+  rounded, moderate. Sides of the nose and edge of the orbits black.
+  Eyes covered with very short close-pressed hairs. Tail very long,
+  slender, closely annulated with very slender, very short adpressed
+  hair.
+
+  Length of body and head 4½ inches; tail 5 inches; hind foot very
+  nearly 1 inch.
+
+  ‘Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea.’
+
+
+_Euryotis Irrorata_, sp. nov.
+
+  ‘Rat from the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the
+  sea. January 1862.’
+
+  I am not certain about this species until I can compare the skull with
+  those of the other species of the genus from Africa, as they are all
+  very similar externally.
+
+
+With these animals was sent the skin of a Chimpanzee without its skull,
+but with the bones of the hand and feet enclosed in the skin. This skin
+differs from all the other specimens of this species which I have seen,
+in being covered with much more abundant and softer fur, and in the fur
+of the back being of a brown colour from the large brown tips to the
+blackish hair. It would seem to indicate a distinct variety or species,
+which may be designated, until we receive better specimens and more
+particulars, _Troglodytes vellerosus_.
+
+
+               DESCRIPTIONS OF A FEW WEST-AFRICAN BIRDS.
+
+                           BY DR. G. R. GRAY.
+
+   (From the ‘Annals and Magazine of Natural History’ for Dec. 1862.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+          _To the Editors of the ‘Annals of Natural History.’_
+
+GENTLEMEN,
+
+The following descriptions of a few birds, which appear new to the fauna
+of West Africa, may interest some of your readers. They were collected
+on the Camaroons Mountains, at an elevation of 7000 feet above the level
+of the sea. They were sent to Mrs. Isabel Burton, the estimable lady of
+the distinguished traveller and Consul, Capt. Burton, and kindly
+presented by her to the British Museum.
+
+
+_Pratincola Salax_.
+
+  _Pratincola salax_, Verr., Rev. et Mag. de Zool. 1851, p. 307.
+
+
+_Cossypha Isabellæ_.
+
+  Head black, with a shining white mark between the nostril and the
+  middle above the eye; back olivaceous-black; wings black, each feather
+  margined with olivaceous; beneath the body rufous-buff, deeper on the
+  breast; rump and outer tail-feathers deep rufous, with the tips of the
+  second, third, and fourth feathers, and tip and outer margin of the
+  first feather, black; the four middle feathers black, with the outer
+  margin of the fifth near the base deep rufous.
+
+  Total length, 6″; wings 2″ 11‴; tarsi, 13‴; bill from gape, 9‴.
+
+  This bird is named in compliment to Mrs. Isabel Burton.
+
+
+_Zosterops (Speirops) melanocephalus_.
+
+  Mouse-colour, washed with olivaceous; head sooty black, with a spot on
+  each side between the nostril and eye; mentum and under wing-coverts
+  white; beneath the body pale obscure grey, tinged with olivaceous;
+  quills and tail fuscous-black, the former margined outwardly with
+  grey. Bill and feet whitish horn-colour.
+
+  Total length, 4″ 9‴; wings, 2″ 5‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill from gape, 7‴.
+
+
+_Trichophorus tephrolæmus_.
+
+  Yellowish-olive; head and throat slate-colour, darker on the head;
+  abdomen yellow; breast, sides, and under tail-coverts olivaceous-
+  yellow; quills fuscous-black, with outer webs olivaceous, the inner
+  web margined near the base with buff; tail dull olivaceous, the end of
+  the outer feather slightly tipped with yellow; bill black; feet
+  plumbeous.
+
+  Total length, 7″ 6‴; wings, 3″ 3‴; tarsi, 10‴; bill from gape, 10‴.
+
+  Closely allied to _Trichophorus canicapillus_, Hartl.; but the throat
+  is pale ash-colour.
+
+
+_Euplectes phœnicomerus_.
+
+  Black; rump and wing-coverts pale clear yellow; under wing-coverts
+  pale rufous-white; thighs pale brown.
+
+  Like _E. xanthomelas_; but the yellow on the rump and wings is paler,
+  and the thighs are pale brown instead of black.
+
+  Total length, 5″ 3‴; wings, 2″ 10‴; tarsi, 11‴; bill from gape, 7½‴.
+
+
+_Ligurnus[151] olivaceus_, Hartl.
+
+  _Coccothraustes olivaceus_, Fras., Proc. Z. S. 1842, p. 144.
+
+  Adult male yellowish-olivaceous; head and throat deep black; sides and
+  a narrow band round the neck, rump, and beneath the body bright
+  orange-yellow; quills black, with the tertials and larger wing-coverts
+  margined outwardly with bright yellow, and the quills inwardly with
+  white; tail olivaceous-green, with each feather margined on the sides
+  and tip with bright yellow; bill orange; feet pale.
+
+  The _female_ agrees with Mr. Fraser’s typical specimen, said to have
+  been obtained at Fernando Po, and which is now deposited in the
+  British Museum. It is figured in the ‘Zoologica Typica,’ pl. 47, by
+  Mr. Fraser.
+
+  _Young._—Dull olivaceous-green; beneath the body dull olivaceous-
+  yellow; bill and feet blackish lead-colour.
+
+
+_Strobilophaga Burtoni_.
+
+  Fuscous, varied with pale olivaceous on the sides of the plumes; wing-
+  coverts fuscous-black, tipped with white; quills and tail fuscous-
+  black, margined narrowly with yellow; abdomen obscure white, spotted
+  with fuscous-black down the shaft of some of the feathers; upper
+  mandible horn-colour, lower mandible white; feet plumbeous.
+
+  Total length, 7″; wings, 3″ 6‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill from gape, 8‴.
+
+  The formation of this bird agrees in every respect with the genus
+  _Pinicola_ or _Strobilophaga_. A species of this genus has not
+  hitherto been recorded as found in Africa.
+
+
+To these may be added the
+
+
+_Cosmetornis Burtoni_.
+
+  It is very similar to the _Cosmetornis vexillarius_ (Gould), G. R.
+  Gr., but differs in the white spot at the base of each quill being
+  narrower, while the white at the tip of the second, third, fourth, and
+  fifth quills is more prominent and slightly mottled with rufous on the
+  outer web; the first quill longer than the second, fuscous-black, and
+  partly margined with rufous on the outer webs; the sixth feather is
+  rather longer than the fifth, the seventh rather longer than the
+  latter; both are fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale rufous,
+  having the bases of the inner webs white; the eighth is much longer
+  than the first quill, and fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale
+  rufous, the base of the inner web white or pale rufous; the ninth
+  feather (or, as it has been termed, ‘standard feather’) is the longest
+  of all, measuring more than 17 in.; it is white at the base of both
+  inner and outer webs, but passing into pale rufous, or rufous-white
+  mottled with black, on the outer web, while the inner is only rufous-
+  white for its entire length from the basal white.
+
+  The specimen is in an imperfect state, and only sufficient to afford
+  the above description so as to distinguish it from the previously
+  known species. The British Museum is indebted to the liberality of
+  Capt. Burton, H.M. Consul, who has just sent it with other zoological
+  specimens, all marked as from Fernando Po, and after whom I have the
+  pleasure of naming this interesting bird.
+
+
+Major Burton has also sent to the British Museum a new kind of viper
+(_viperidæ_). It is probably scarce, as only a single specimen was sent
+in the collection.
+
+Dr. Gunther has thus described it in the _An. and Mag. N. Hist._ 1863,
+25, and intends to give a figure of it in the Proceedings of the
+Zoological Society.
+
+
+_Pœcilostolus_.
+
+  Head thick, broad, covered with strongly keeled scales; body
+  compressed; tail prehensile, subcaudal shields. Entire.
+
+  This genus differs from _Echis_ in its compressed body, prehensile
+  tail, and bright colours. While _Echis_ is confined to dry sandy
+  plains, _Pœcilostolus_ inhabits trees and bushes. _Vipera chlorœchis
+  Schegel_ probably belongs to the same genus.
+
+
+_Pœcilostolus Burtoni_.
+
+  Scales strongly keeled, in nineteen rows; upper row nine, none of
+  which enter the orbit; rostral shield very low, linear, with other
+  scale-like shields above. Entirely bright yellow, single scales green.
+
+  _Inhab._ Camaroons country.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+ DESCRIPTIONS OF TWO SPECIES OF SHELLS FROM CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS. BY WM.
+                                 BAIRD.
+
+
+1. _Achatina Isabel_, Baird, sp. nov.
+
+  Testa cylindracea, fulva, minute undulato-striata et parum decussata,
+  anfractibus octo, ultima tumida, dimidiam totæ testæ æquante, suturis
+  impressis, apertura semilunari, parva.
+
+  Longitudo, 1⅓ unc.—Latitudo maxima, ½ unc.
+
+  Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa Occidentali.
+
+  This shell is covered with an epidermis of a dark fulvous colour, and
+  its surface is marked by numerous fine longitudinal striæ, which are
+  most distinct near the suture, are waved and impressed, while at the
+  same time several indistinct transverse lines run across them, giving
+  a somewhat decussated appearance. The whirls are eight in number, the
+  apical ones blunt, the last tumid and about half the length of the
+  whole shell. The outer lip is thin, and the interior of the semilunar
+  aperture somewhat purplish. The sutures are distinct, and rather
+  deeply impressed.
+
+
+2. _Achatina montana_, Baird, sp. nov.
+
+  Testa parva, cylindracea, gracili, olivacea, nitida, prope suturas
+  undulato-striata, anfractibus octo, ultimo tertiam partem testæ
+  æquante, suturis impressis, apertura semilunari, parva.
+
+  Longitudo, lin. 13.—Lat. max. lin. 3½.
+
+  Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa Occidentali.
+
+  This species of Achatina is much more slender and smoother than the
+  preceding, and is of a darker colour. The apex is blunt, and the last
+  whirl is much less tumid than the corresponding whirl of _A. Isabel_,
+  and is shorter, being only about one-third the length of the shell.
+  The surface is striated, but the striæ are scarcely perceptible except
+  near the sutures, which are well marked and impressed.
+
+
+[Footnote 151: _Ligurnus rufobrunneus_.—Rufous-brown, slightly darker
+along the shaft of each feather; wings and tail dull brown, margined
+with rufous-brown; beneath the body much paler, varied in some places
+with darker; bill and feet horn-colour.
+
+Length, 6″; wings, 3″ 5‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill, from gape, 7‴.
+
+This bird has been many years in the collection of the British Museum.
+It was brought to this country from Western Africa by Capt. (now Major-
+General) Sabine, R.A., and was presented by him to that institution.]
+
+
+
+
+                              APPENDIX V.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                REPORTS AND LETTERS TOUCHING AMBAS BAY.
+
+
+                                 No. 1.
+
+
+                                 59 Fenchurch Street, August 15, 1856.
+
+MY LORD,
+
+   I take the liberty of enclosing a memorandum on the High Land of
+Camaroons, the only position on the West Coast of Africa where immunity
+from tropical fever can be attained.
+
+The great change that the suppression of the slave trade will make in
+our commercial relations with the Coast of Africa, adds greatly to the
+value of this position, as we have no port from Sierra Leone to the
+Cape, where, in case of war, a British vessel could find protection.
+
+At present several British merchants have formed establishments at
+Fernando Po, as depôts for their trade with the mainland; but they are
+merely on sufferance, as the Spanish Government might at any time, by
+enforcing their tariff, render it impossible for them to continue.
+
+I have no doubt that, if the British flag were hoisted at Amboises, it
+would, in a few years, be the Singapore of Western Africa from its
+position and climate.
+
+                                                       I have, &c.
+
+                                                    (Signed) M. LAIRD.
+
+The Right Hon. the Earl Grey.
+
+
+                                 No. 2.
+
+
+_Memorandum on the High Land of Camaroons, in the Bight of Biafra, as a
+site for a European Settlement, above the level of Tropical Fever._
+
+
+1. The physical characteristic of the West Coast of Africa, and the
+principal cause of its unhealthiness to Europeans, is its slight
+elevation above the level of the sea. From the range of the Atlas to the
+Cape of Good Hope, a distance of nearly 6000 miles, with the exception
+of the high land of Camaroons, there is no land of sufficient elevation
+to secure immunity from the fatal African fever.
+
+2. The high land of the Camaroons is situated at the extreme eastern
+point of the Gulf of Guinea, in longitude 8° 50′ E. and latitude 4° N.,
+bounded on the W. by the Rio del Rey, and on the E. by the Camaroons
+River. The highest peak has an elevation of 13,700 feet; the Rumli and
+Qua mountains of great height are visible to the N., but no measurement
+of their elevation has yet been made: they all form apparently part of
+one great mountain-range stretching into the interior.
+
+3. At the foot of the mountain of Camaroons, which abuts abruptly upon
+the sea, is the well-sheltered harbour of Amboises, capable of receiving
+the largest vessels, open to the sea-breeze, sheltered on the land side
+by nearly perpendicular cliffs of considerable height, and capable of
+being made a most complete naval station. The harbour was discovered in
+1833, and surveyed by Captain Wm. Allen, R.N., of H.M.’s S.S.
+‘Wilberforce,’ in 1842. A full description of it, with views of the
+surrounding scenery, is given in Captain Allen’s published narrative of
+the Niger Expedition of 1841. The land rises from the cliffs which form
+the landward side of the harbour, and attains an elevation of upwards of
+5000 feet within five miles of it.
+
+4. This is the only point upon the West Coast of Africa, N. of the Cape
+Colony, where a European settlement could be formed above the fever-
+level, which is presumed to be 4000 feet above the sea.
+
+Its advantages are:—A good open harbour, accessible at all times to
+ships of the largest class, and easily descended.
+
+A rapid ascent to a temperate climate, where tropical fever could not
+propagate itself.
+
+A small and peaceable native population, confined to the low grounds.
+
+A central position for all the trading ports from Whydah to Camaroons,
+being within 100 miles of the Niger, Bonny, and Calabar Rivers, where
+the bulk of the palm-oil trade is carried on.
+
+In case of war, a settlement at this point would command the embouchures
+of all the rivers in the Bight of Biafra, and be a key to the only
+entrance into the continent that seems practicable by land.
+
+5. From the twentieth parallel of south latitude to ten north, and for
+an average breadth of 25° of longitude, covering a space of nearly
+3,000,000 square miles, lies the _terra incognita_ of Africa: to the
+modern as well as to the ancient world, the sources of the Nile, the
+Sharry, and the Congo, and the countries which for centuries have given
+out their people as slaves, are unknown; the deadly climate of the low
+ground has proved the impassable barrier to discovery.
+
+It is possible that, from Camaroons, an expedition might reach in safety
+the elevated plateaus of Central Africa, and fill up the void that now
+appears in maps.
+
+6. From the fifth parallel of north latitude to the Sahara and the
+plateau of Abyssinia in the east, the depression of the African
+continent is very remarkable. The Niger, with its course of 3500 miles,
+is only 1600 feet at its source above the level of the sea, and no
+travellers have recorded any mountains or even hills of considerable
+elevation; the highest seen on the Niger did not exceed 1500 feet.
+
+South of the fifth parallel a very different state of things exists, and
+there is strong presumptive evidence that a continuous tract of elevated
+land runs from Camaroons to the Indian Ocean, extending S. to the limits
+of Cape Colony. The late discoveries made by travellers from the Cape
+prove that, as far as the twentieth parallel, Europeans are perfectly
+safe in the centre of the continent, while descending on the same
+parallel to the coast is eminently dangerous. The discovery of a snowy
+range, if correct, on the East Coast, close to the Equator, a latitude
+at which the limit of perpetual snow exceeds 18,000 feet, and the high
+land which abuts upon the Atlantic at Camaroons, all tend to show that
+the southern division of the continent will, when explored, offer a
+marked contrast in its physical development to the northern, and
+probably contains vast stores of mineral wealth. Copper ore finds its
+way in small quantities now to the coast.
+
+7. It is not to be expected that Europeans would settle at Camaroons to
+grow tropical produce—they will naturally prefer a healthy tropical
+country for that purpose; nor will Africans. The climate of the low
+ground does not injure them. Its advantages will be appreciated by the
+merchant, who could transact his business at the port during the day,
+and sleep in pure air at night. This, with its safe harbour, will make
+it the centre of a great trade, and, by the naval service, who could
+always command a temperate climate for their invalids, without leaving
+the station. A hospital above the fever-level would be the means of
+saving many valuable lives annually.
+
+The great value of this position to this country is undoubtedly its
+extraordinary adaptation for a penal settlement. Supposing, by that
+labour, a good road made to the superior land from the port, European
+prisoners might be kept there in perfect security; any attempt to escape
+would be defeated by the climate. They would displace no native
+population, for that is confined to the low ground. They would be
+completely isolated, and governed with greater ease than convict
+stations surrounded by white settlers. Employment could be found to any
+extent in cutting timber, making roads, and raising their own
+provisions.
+
+As long as they remained in the high land they would be safe; the
+penalty for leaving it would be levied by nature herself. Ground could
+be allotted to the well behaved, and the great source of depravity would
+be removed by allowing intermarriage with the native women. A mixed race
+would be the result, which experience has found to be the most efficient
+way of improving mankind. As long as transportation continues, and the
+difficulty of finding a practical substitute for it is generally
+acknowledged, there is no part of the world where a convict can be
+placed with less injury to his fellow-creatures, and with greater chance
+of reformation for himself.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                                 No. 3.
+
+
+               _Rev. Mr. Saker to Mr. Consul Hutchison._
+
+                                 Clarence, Fernando Po, June 30, 1858.
+
+SIR,
+
+   The bay of Amboises we entered at 11 A.M., at its N.E. angle; we
+found an interior bay hidden from a great part of the principal
+anchorage, and its entrance not distinguished without a very near
+approach. The heavy headland that defends the great bay from S.W.
+storms, continues of the same elevation, and runs into the bay, forming
+its S.E. side, and terminates in a precipitous hill, shutting in the
+inner bay. Rocks run out from this point in the line of high land, and
+extend many yards towards the mainland, thereby narrowing the entrance
+to the bay.
+
+On these rocks the surf beats heavily at times. On the mainland, too, a
+line of rocks extends in a direction to meet those spoken of above,
+thereby narrowing the entrance still more. These last rocks form a
+natural pier, on which may be built at small cost a platform for landing
+goods, &c. On the inner side of the pier, coal-ships and steam-vessels
+may be brought, and discharge or receive coal without delay or damage.
+Coals may be conveyed from the pier in carriages on an iron tramway into
+the sheds on the beach. The clear entrance to this inner bay is about
+half a mile wide, with five and six fathoms water. The shores of this
+bay are one continued line of sand, varying at low water from 50 to 100
+yards in width, covered entirely with a tide which rises 9 feet on full
+and change. The water lies placid on the beach, and boats and small
+vessels can be brought to it at all seasons for examination and repair.
+This beach is covered by a level bank of two miles’ extent, on which may
+be built stores for coal and merchandize, sheds for artificers of all
+sorts, and slips for boatbuilding, &c.
+
+The rocky pier forms the N.W. end of this bay, and from that point
+begins the N.E. shore of the greater bay, rocky and elevated. Beginning
+at the pier-end, a low table-land extends along the beach. Here can be
+built a town of large extent, open to the pure sea-breeze by day, and
+the mountain-air at night. This table-land is broken, at 330 yards from
+the pier, by a stream of pure water from the mountains, here finding its
+outlet into the sea. Two other streams of fresh water empty themselves
+in the inner bay, but the one first named might be conveyed by pipe to
+the pier-head.
+
+A harbour equal to Amboises Bay, a locality so healthy, and a position
+for opening a trade with the interior tribes on this mountain-range of
+Central Africa, does not exist. The supposed want of a safe landing has
+alone prevented it being brought into notice.
+
+In this place we seek to establish a home for our friends, who are, in
+effect, expelled from Clarence. There are great difficulties in the way,
+but with the aid of our friends in England, especially with the
+countenance and support of our Government, we shall overcome them all.
+The work before us, besides forming a home for our friends, is the
+following:—To establish at the foot of the mountain of Camaroons an
+English colony, to be the foundation of an English city. To make that
+colony the centre of religious enlightenment, civilization, and
+commerce, to be a barrier to slavery, oppression, and cruelty. To
+succeed we need first the lawful possession of a tract of land. This I
+have limited to our immediate wants; but we need more for expansion and
+security. We need that the whole mountain seaboard be the lawful
+possession of the British crown.
+
+Her Majesty is now the acknowledged sovereign, but an honourable
+purchase from the present chief, who has been raised to authority by
+English officers, would prevent all future disputes.
+
+This would be readily effected, and the purchase of an uninhabited
+wilderness, as the greater portion is, would be but a trifle. We need
+that H.M.’s Government sanction and sustain the effort by making this
+English colony and bay their local depôt. And the naval officers would
+be but too glad to make this exchange; as a sanitarium, and as a point
+of supply of provisions, Clarence cannot be compared to it.
+
+The countenance and support of H.M.’s Government is so essential that,
+without it, I fear we shall fail; and I do trust that the objects we
+seek to accomplish will commend this effort to the favourable notice of
+H.M.’s Government and the Admiralty.
+
+                                                    I have, &c.,
+
+                                                (Signed) ALFRED SAKER.
+
+
+
+
+                              APPENDIX VI.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE BELOW AND UPON THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS, KEPT
+BY M. GUSTAV MANN, GOVERNMENT BOTANIST, WEST AFRICA, AND SELIM AGA,
+BETWEEN THE 6TH DECEMBER, 1861, AND THE 24TH FEBRUARY, 1862.
+
+
+The instruments used were two Bath Thermometers, Negretti and Zambra,
+London (patent, Nos. 1064 and 1063, graduated to 110° and 180° Fah.),
+suspended near camp with a south-westerly aspect: one,—the first of the
+double observation—in the sun; the other, the second, in the shade; both
+3½ feet above the ground. The maximum and minimum were Nos. 2697 and
+1764 of Messrs. Negretti and Zambra. In the minimum the alcohol was at
+first red; it presently paled to a dull straw yellow. In the remarks I
+have used a small pocket thermometer (Fah.) by Messrs. Cary, London.
+
+  The correction for No. 1064 (sun therm.) is   at 32° − 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 42° − 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 52° − 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 62° + 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 72° + 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 82° correct.
+
+           „                     „              at 92° − 0·2
+
+  The correction for No. 1063 (shade therm.) is at 32° − 0·1
+
+           „                     „              at 42° − 0·4
+
+           „                     „              at 52° − 0·5
+
+           „                     „              at 62° correct.
+
+           „                     „              at 72° − 0·4
+
+           „                     „              at 82° − 0·4
+
+           „                     „              at 92° − 0·4
+
+                  The maximum and minimum are correct.
+
+ [D.: DATE
+  MAX.R: MAX. SELF REGIST.
+  MIN.R: MIN. SELF REGIST.]
+
+ +--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+
+ |D.|  6 A.M.  |  NOON.  |  6 P.M.  | WIND.  |MAX.R|MIN.R|  REMARKS.    |
+ +--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+
+ |  |    °    ′|   °    ′|   °    ′ |        | °  ′| °  ′|              |
+ |Dec. 61.     |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |  84   50|  75   50}|        |     |     |M. Mann       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |landed at     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Victoria.     |
+ | 6|{         |         |         }|        |84 50|     |Base of the   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |mountain.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cloudy day,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |strong        |
+ |  |{         |  96     |  77     }|        |     |     |sea-breeze.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  70   50|  85   50|  80     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ | 7|{         |         |         }|        |86   |71 50|Do.           |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  72   50| 104     |  80   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  74     |  85     |  80     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ | 8|{         |         |         }|        |86   |73   |Do.           |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  74   50| 105     |  81     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  71   50|  84     |  74     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Warm and      |
+ | 9|{         |         |         }|        |85 25|72   |sunny.        |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  73     |  85   50|  75   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  67   50|  84     |  82     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |10|{         |         |         }|        |85 75|67 50|Do.           |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  69     |  95     |  82     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  70   50|  83   75|  82     }|        |     |     |Do. Heavy     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |thunderstorm, |
+ |11|{         |         |         }|        |86 50|70 50|without wind, |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at night      |
+ |  |{  71   50|  94     |  82     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  71     |  85   50|  80   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |First half of |
+ |12|{         |         |         }|        |85 25|70 50|day cloudy,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |then clear.   |
+ |  |{  71   50|  98     |  81     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  72   75|         |  72     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At Bosumbo.   |
+ |13|{         |         |         }|        |     |72   |Warm, clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day.          |
+ |  |{  73     |         |  73   75}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  67   50|  78   25|  72     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |14|{         |         |         }|        |79 50|66 50|At ditto.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Rain.         |
+ |  |{  69     |  85   25|  73   25}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  65   50|         |  65   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |15|{         |         |         }|        |     |65   |At Mapanya.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Sunny day.    |
+ |  |{  66   50|         |  69     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  59   50|  76   75|  65   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |16|{         |         |         }|        |72 50|59 50|At do. Clear  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and sunny.    |
+ |  |{  60   50|  78   50|  69     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  60   50|         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |On mountain.  |
+ |17|{         |         |         }|        |     |61   |Hazy, smoky,  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and misty.    |
+ |  |{  62     |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |18| Dies non.|         |          |        |     |     |On ditto.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Cloudy as     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |usual. At     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Victoria      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |fine, clear,  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and warm.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |  77   50|  64   75}|        |     |     |Began by      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |march up the  |
+ |19|{         |         |         }|  Sea-  |     |     |mountain to   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|breeze. |     |     |Mapanya.      |
+ |  |{         |  75     |  68   75}|        |     |     |Clear and hot.|
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          | [152]  |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  60     |  75     |  69     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At Mapanya.   |
+ |20|{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Fine clear    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day.          |
+ |  |{  63     |  75     |  71     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  62   25|  78     |         }|        |     |     |Left Mapanya; |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |reached Ridge |
+ |21|{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Camp. Hot     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day; cold     |
+ |  |{  62     |  76   25|         }|        |     |     |night.        |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |22|   68     |         |  50      |   E.   |     |40   |Ascended      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |hill. At 8·30 |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Therm. 80°.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Wet day. Cold |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |wind from E.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |At 4·45 P.M.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Therm. 60°.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |23|   48     |         |          |  S.W.  |     |     |At 8 A.M.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |mist from     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |S.W., Ther.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |68°. At 10    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |A.M., in      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |sun, 92°;     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |shade, 85°.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |At 11 A.M.,   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |cloud and     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |wind, 72°. At |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |noon, sun and |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |cloud, 84°.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |At 1 P.M.,    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |misty, in sun |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |91°. At 4     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |P.M., in the  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |forest, 66°.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Night very    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |pleasant.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  53     |  63   50|  55   66}|        |     |     |Cloud at 8    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |A.M. On Mount |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Helen, Therm. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  N. &  |     |     |at 8·30 A.M., |
+ |24|{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |57° 5′-58°    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|Strong. |     |     |5′, a few     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |feet below.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At 11 A.M.,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in camp,      |
+ |  |{  53   25|  60   75|  55   66}|        |     |     |Therm. 66°.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  61     |  53   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |25|{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Very fine day.|
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51   50|  60   25|  55   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50     |         |  54     }|        |     |     |At 2 P.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |very thick    |
+ |26|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |mist from W.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |like rain.    |
+ |  |{  52     |         |  55     }|        |     |     |Carried off   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |by N.E. wind. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48     |  66   50|  54     }|        |     |     |At 5·30 A.M.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Therm. 48°,   |
+ |27|{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |very little   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |dew. On Mount |
+ |  |{  48   50|  66   75|  54   75}|        |     |     |Isabel at 5   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M., 40°.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49   50|  61   50|  52     }|        |     |     |At 3 P.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |few drops of  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |rain. Wet and |
+ |28|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |misty day. At |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night Venus   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |veiled. Cold  |
+ |  |{  49   50|  60   50|  53   50}|        |     |     |night.        |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  60     |  53     }|        |     |     |Misty morn    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and day.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Threatened    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |rain, none    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |came. Loud    |
+ |29|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |64   |49   |thunder at    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night from W. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and S., but   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |below gusts   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |of wind. Cold |
+ |  |{  50   50|  60     |  54     }|        |     |     |at times.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   75|         |  56   50}|        |     |     |Cold, raw     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morning, 54°  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at 8 A.M. Raw |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and misty     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |till noon,    |
+ |30|{         |         |         }| N., W. |63 50|49 75|then hot sun. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  & E.  |     |     |Heavy cloud   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in W.; kind   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |of Harmattan  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day. Wind     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |from all      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |quarters.     |
+ |  |{  51     |         |  56   50}|        |     |     |Clouds torn   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |to pieces.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  60     |  57   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Very cold     |
+ |31|{         |         |         }| E.S. & |61   |49 75|wind all      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |night.        |
+ |  |{  49   75|  60     |  58   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |Jan. 62.     |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49   50|         |  58   25}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cold morning. |
+ | 1|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |66 50|49 75|Normal day.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |Misty day.    |
+ |  |{  50   50|         |  58   75}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  52     |  60   75|  56   25}|        |     |     |Thunder in    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Day     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cool, misty   |
+ | 2|{         |         |         }| S.W. & |     |52   |and still.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |Even. fine,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |warm, and     |
+ |  |{  52   75|  60   75|  56   25}|        |     |     |windless.[153]|
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ | 3|   49     |  61     |  54      |  Do.   |     |     |Hazy morn.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Dry hazy      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |noon. At 2    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |P.M. misty,   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and a few     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |drops of      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |rain. Warm    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and clear at  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |3 P.M. Misty  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |even. This    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and the next  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |day’s obs.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |are with 1064 |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Therm. placed |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |in sun.       |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |  1 P.M. |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ | 4|   48   50|  66     |  55   25 |  Do.   |     |     |Misty morn.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and even.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Clear noon.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  47     |         |  57     }|  Do.   |     |     |Cool, clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Day     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |misty. Fine   |
+ | 5|{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and windless  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |evening. At   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |3·40 P.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |little rain   |
+ |  |{  47     |         |  57     }|        |     |     |from W.       |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  64     |  55   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ | 6|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |72  5|45   |Fine, clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day.          |
+ |  |{  49     |  63     |  55     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48     |  70     |  54     }|        |     |     |Day changing. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Sun and mist  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |alternately.  |
+ | 7|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Clouds heavy  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in W. From    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |3 P.M. till   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night clear   |
+ |  |{  51   75|  64   75|  53   50}|        |     |     |and light.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Night cold.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50     |  83     |  58     }|        |     |     |Fine clear    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Raw     |
+ | 8|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |cloudy day.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |In afternoon  |
+ |  |{  51     |  68   25|  56   50}|        |     |     |hot sun.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Beautiful     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |even.         |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  59   25|  55     }|        |     |     |Clear morn.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Heavy mist.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At 11 A.M.    |
+ | 9|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |few drops of  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |rain (2nd     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |time). Raw    |
+ |  |{  50     |  58   75|  55   50}|        |     |     |and cold.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Weather seems |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |breaking.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49   74|         |  55   25}|        |     |     |At 5·30 A.M.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |47°. Heavy    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |thunder and   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |lightning at  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night almost  |
+ |10|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |41   |overhead.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Morn. clear.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Mist at 10.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |All night     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |thunder and   |
+ |  |{  50   68|         |  55   50}|        |     |     |clouds from   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |S.W. came     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |overhead.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  | 5·30 A.M.|         |6·30 P.M. |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |11|   47     |  58     |  52      |No wind.|     |     |Morn. cool    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and clear.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Mist at 10    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |A.M. Thunder  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and lightning |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |in S.W. At    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |4 P.M. mild   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |and pleasant. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Cold night.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Therm. 1064.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  47     |  68     |  55     }|        |     |     |Very fine     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |still morn.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Thunder       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }| Land-  |     |     |below. Cold   |
+ |12|{         |         |         }| breeze |     |     |mists at 10   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |A.M. till 3   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M.; warmer  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |after noon.   |
+ |  |{  47   50|  61     |  55   50}|        |     |     |Cold, clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night.        |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  57   75|  54     }|        |     |     |Splendid      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morning.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cool, clear,  |
+ |13|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |and still.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |Raw mist 11   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |A.M. to 2     |
+ |  |{  47     |  57   25|  54   50}|        |     |     |P.M. Still    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |warm even.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  68     |  54   25}|        |     |     |Morn hazy and |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |still. Mist   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |10 A.M. to 4  |
+ |14|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |P.M. At noon  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |few drops of  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |rain. Fine    |
+ |  |{  51   50|  65   50|  54   75}|        |     |     |clear even.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Bright stars. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48     |  64     |  56   50}|        |     |     |N. wind about |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |dawn; W. till |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |10 A.M.,      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |then S.E.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sea-breeze.   |
+ |15|{         |         |         }| N.W. & |     |     |Meridian obs. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |taken at 1    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. Mist     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |condensed by  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cold. Dull,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |but still     |
+ |  |{  50     |  61   50|  57     }|        |     |     |even. Cold    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night; gusty  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |near morn.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51   50|  62     |  56     }|        |     |     |Misty day.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Very calm in  |
+ |16|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |even. Fine    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |night. Clear  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |moon. Heavy   |
+ |  |{  53     |  61     |  56     }|        |     |     |dew.          |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |  5 A.M.  |1·30 P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     | 59?   50|  52   75}|        |     |     |Thunder in    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Dull,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |misty day.    |
+ |17|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |In even.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |clouds. Stars |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |obscured.     |
+ |  |{  50     |  58   50|  53   75}|        |     |     |Meridian obs. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at 1·30 P.M.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49   25|  70   50|  55     }|        |     |     |Morn. Thun.,  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |dry and fine. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Wind S.W. at  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |8 A.M. Fine   |
+ |18|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |clear view of |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sea at 5·45   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. Leaves   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |falling.      |
+ |  |{  50     |  65   75|  55   50}|        |     |     |Swarms of     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |swifts. Hawks |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cry at night. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |  5 A.M.  |1·30 P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51   50|  75     |  55   50}|        |     |     |First heavy   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  all   |     |     |storm. See    |
+ |19|{         |         |         }| round  |     |     |diary.        |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|compass.|     |     |Meridional    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |observation   |
+ |  |{  52   75|  66   50|  55   50}|        |     |     |at 1·30 P.M.  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50     |  67   50|  59   50}|        |     |     |Fine clear    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Ditto   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |day. Sharp    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cold S.E.     |
+ |20|{         |         |         }|  S.E.  |     |     |wind till     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |night. At 4   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. hot sun. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Little mist.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Clear moon.   |
+ |  |{  51     |  70   75|  58   50}|        |     |     |Bees swarming |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |from east to  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |west.         |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |  7 A.M.  |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51     |  66   50|  53     }|        |     |     |Morn. obs. at |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |7 A.M. Fine,  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |clear. Wind   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |less. Italian |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |weather. At 7 |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |A.M. thunder  |
+ |21|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |from N.W. At  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |10 A.M. very  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |heavy mist. 2 |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. distant  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |thunder clap  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |from N.W.     |
+ |  |{  52     |  65   50|  53   50}|        |     |     |At 3 P.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |few drops     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |of rain.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Clearer in    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |even. Night   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |thunder from  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |W. by N.W.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Bees still    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |swarming.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  52   50|  54     }|        |     |     |Bad thunder   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |storm. See    |
+ |22|{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |diary.        |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  etc.  |     |     |Snow seen     |
+ |  |{  52     |  52   50|  54     }|        |     |     |from below    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |mountains.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |  5 A.M.  |45m. P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  59   53|  50     }|        |     |     |Morn. obs.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at 5 A.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Fine, clear,  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and cold      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |till 10 A.M.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Then mist     |
+ |23|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |from every    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.W.  |     |     |direction.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Thunder       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |westward, 3   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. Therm.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |on ground     |
+ |  |{  51   50|  58   54|         }|        |     |     |near Calvo    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Crater, in    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sun, 82°,     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |when mist     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |came over,    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |74°.          |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |    4 A.M.|   2 P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50     |  65     |  55     }|        |     |     |Morn. obs. 4  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |A.M. Noon,    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |2 P.M. Dull   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Little  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Camaroons     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |clearly seen. |
+ |24|{         |         |         }|   E.   |     |     |Heavy mist    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|strong. |     |     |from below.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cold, and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |hot sun.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Threatened    |
+ |  |{  50   50|  62   25|  54   75}|        |     |     |rain, but     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |none fell.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Calm even.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Heavy thunder |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at night.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |  30 P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48     |  72     |  53   75}|        |     |     |Clear morn.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Misty day and |
+ |25|{         |         |         }| N.E. & |     |     |even. Thunder |
+ |  |          |         |          |  S.W.  |     |     |and lightning |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |below. Fine   |
+ |  |{  49     |  69   50|  54     }|        |     |     |cool night.   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  | 5·30 A.M.|         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  65     |  53   50}|        |     |     |Thunder all   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Day     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |misty and     |
+ |26|{         |         |         }|  W. &  |     |     |fine by       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  S.E.  |     |     |turns. Clear  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |even. Thunder |
+ |  |{  49     |  62   50|  54     }|        |     |     |and lightning |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at night.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |2·30 P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48   50|  80   50|  43     }|        |     |     |Slept on      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Mount Isabel. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Morn. cold,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |dear. Mists   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at 10 A.M.    |
+ |27|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Heavy clouds  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |from E.       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At 4 P.M.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |therm. 45°.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Rain-drops at |
+ |  |{  49   50|  78     |  43     }|        |     |     |2 P.M. Heavy  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |dew. At 5·50  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |P.M. 45° and  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |44°.          |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |  11 A.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  39   75|  51   50|  41   50}|        |     |     |Morn. and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |even. obs.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in Isabel     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and Saker’s   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Camp. Noon    |
+ |28|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |on mountain.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Dull red      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. Cold,   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and few       |
+ |  |{  40     |  51   50|  41   50}|        |     |     |clouds at     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sunrise.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Slept at      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Saker’s Camp. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  39     |  80     |  42     }|        |     |     |Hoar frost    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in morn. At   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |2 A.M. 37°.   |
+ |29|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Grey and      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cold. Sun     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |not visible   |
+ |  |{  39     |  60     |  42     }|        |     |     |till high     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |up. Slept at  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Saker’s Camp. |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  36     |         |         }|        |     |     |Hoar frost on |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |clothes. At 2 |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |A.M. 32° 50′. |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Bad thunder   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |from S.W. A   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |vile day,     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |with rain     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and hail.     |
+ |30|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Descended     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |to Mann’s     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Spring.       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |See diary.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |New moon,     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |bad omen.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |M. Mann’s     |
+ |  |{  36     |         |         }|        |     |     |maximum       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |on summit     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |of Albert     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Crater, 55°., |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |minimum 27°.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |At time of    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |inspection    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |35°.          |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  52     |  75     |  57     }|        |     |     |Left Mann’s   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Spring, and   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |began the     |
+ |31|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |descent. At   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sunrise next  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morning,      |
+ |  |{  53     |  67     |  58     }|        |     |     |therm. 46°.   |
+ |                                                                      |
+ |   I then left the mountain, and soon found myself in an atmosphere   |
+ |                             of 80° F.                                |
+ |                                                                      |
+ |M. MANN.     |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |Feb. 62.     |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |         |  56   50}|        |     |     |Clear in      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |morn. and     |
+ | 1|{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |     |     |noon. Even.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |very strong   |
+ |  |{  50    5|         |  57   50}|        |     |     |wind. Max.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |71°. Min. 50°.|
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  48     |         |  56     }|        |     |     |Morn. clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and still.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |8 A.M.        |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |wind rose.    |
+ | 2|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Thunder.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Clear         |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |afternoon.    |
+ |  |{  49   75|         |  57     }|        |     |     |Max. 71°.     |
+ |  |{         |         |          |        |     |     |Min. 48°.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51   50|         |  55     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cloudy and    |
+ | 3|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |warm. Max.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |71°. Min. 50°.|
+ |  |{  53     |         |  56   25}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50     |         |  52     }|        |     |     |Wind light.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Sunny and     |
+ | 4|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |cloudy by     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |turns. Max.   |
+ |  |{  52     |         |  54     }|        |     |     |69°. Min. 49°.|
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51     |         |  53     }|        |     |     |Calm. Morn.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and even.     |
+ | 5|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |clear. Cloudy |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |at midday.    |
+ |  |{  52     |         |  54     }|        |     |     |Max. 66°.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Min. 48°.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  52     |  68     |  54     }|        |68 50|48   |Wind light.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Distant       |
+ | 6|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |thunder from  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sea. Cloudy   |
+ |  |{  53     |  65     |  54   50}|        |     |     |and sunny day |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |by turns.     |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  49     |  84     |  52   50}|        |63 50|49   |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Wind light.   |
+ | 7|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |     |Sunny and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cloudy by     |
+ |  |{  50     |  72   75|  54   25}|        |     |     |turns.        |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |  1 P.M. |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  61   50|  51   50}|        |     |     |Morn. clear   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and calm. Day |
+ | 8|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |63 50|49   |and even.     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cloudy.       |
+ |  |{  52   50|  60     |  53     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  52     |  69     |  58   25}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ | 9|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |68   |48   |Strong wind.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cloudy.       |
+ |  |{  52   50|  68   50|  59   25}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  50   50|  73   50|  59     }|        |     |     |Sunny and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |warm. Very    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |pleasant.     |
+ |10|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |72 50|51   |Even. clear.  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Thunderstorm  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and rain at   |
+ |  |{  52   50|  85     |  58   50}|        |     |     |night.        |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51     |  59   50|  54   50}|        |     |     |Foggy till    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |3·0 P.M. Then |
+ |11|{         |         |         }|  N.E.  |67 75|49   |two hours     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sun. After    |
+ |  |{  52   25|  60     |  55   50}|        |     |     |5 P.M. sky    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |covered.      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  52     |  62     |  52   50}|        |     |     |Rain and calm |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in morn.      |
+ |12|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |64   |90   |Clear and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |calm day.     |
+ |  |{  52   50|  62     |  53   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  51     |         |         }|        |     |     |Clear morn.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Calm and      |
+ |13|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |     |48 50|covered sky   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |in day.       |
+ |  |{  52   50|         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |  64     |  60     }|        |     |     |M. Mann       |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |travelled to  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Ridge Camp    |
+ |14|{         |         |         }|  all   |69   |     |this day. At  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }| round. |     |     |5 A.M. heavy  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |tornado.      |
+ |  |{         |  64   50|  60   50}|        |     |     |Cloudy and    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |rainy day.    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  63   25|  67     |  65   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cloudy day.   |
+ |15|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |69   |60   |Dry at Ridge  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Camp.         |
+ |  |{  64     |  67   50|  66   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  64     |  66     |  62   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |16|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |67 50|63 50|Ridge Camp.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Rain all day. |
+ |  |{  64   50|  66   75|  63     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  63     |  67     |  67     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |              |
+ |17|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |71 50|61   |Day warm and  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |sunny.        |
+ |  |{  63     |  69   50|  67   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  64     |         |  80     }|        |     |63   |Descended to  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Victoria,     |
+ |18|{         |         |         }|  Sea-  |     |     |where even.   |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|breeze. |     |     |obs. taken.   |
+ |  |{  64     |         |  81   50}|        |     |R.C. |Day sunny and |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |warm.         |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  73   50|  75     |  73     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  Sea-  |     |     |              |
+ |19|{         |         |         }| breeze |78 50|70 50|Rainy day.    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|(strong)|     |     |              |
+ |  |{  74   25|  75   50|  74   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  66     |  88   50|  78   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Day sunny and |
+ |20|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |87   |67   |cloudy. Warm  |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and dry.      |
+ |  |{  67   50|  87     |  80     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |30m. P.M.|          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  69     | 100     |  81     }|        |     |   50|              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|  Sea-  |     |     |              |
+ |21|{         |         |         }| breeze |90   |69   |Sunny and     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|strong. |     |     |warm.         |
+ |  |{  70     |  90     |  82     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  73     |  95     |  79     }|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Morn. sunny.  |
+ |22|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |88 50|72   |Afternoon     |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |cloudy.       |
+ |  |{  73     |  85   25|  79   50}|        |     |     |              |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |  |{  70   75| 100     |  80     }|        |     |     |Day warm      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |and sunny.    |
+ |23|{         |         |         }|  Do.   |90   |71   |Thunder in    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |the mountains |
+ |  |{  71   75|  86   50|  81     }|        |     |     |at noon.      |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |Cloudy for    |
+ |  |{         |         |         }|        |     |     |1h. 30m.      |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |              |
+ |24|   74   50|         |          |        |     |73   |M. Mann left  |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Victoria on   |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |his way to    |
+ |  |          |         |          |        |     |     |Camaroons.    |
+ +--+----------+---------+----------+--------+-----+-----+--------------+
+
+[Footnote 152: Our camp below Earthwork Crater was in a thorough
+draught, the top of the forest conducting the wind. The prevalent were
+the N.E., which is almost constant in the upper regions, and is in fact
+the land-breeze rushing from the cold hills to the sea. During the day
+we had S.W. or sea-breezes, which brought up clouds.]
+
+[Footnote 153: M. Mann left on Jan. 2nd for the crater, taking his
+maximum and minimum thermometers. He returned the 4th Jan., and on the
+10th Jan. he left for Victoria, returning on the 25th Jan.]
+
+
+
+
+                             APPENDIX VII.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+   HYPSOMETRICAL TABLE OF STATIONS BETWEEN VICTORIA BAY AND CAMAROONS
+                               MOUNTAINS.
+
+
+M. MANN’S instrument is a B. P. (Fah.) by Negretti and Zambra (no
+number). At sea-level, before starting, his readings were:—
+
+  212° ·4  }
+           }
+   „   ·5  }
+           }
+   „   ·4  }  Temperature 77° (Fah.).
+           }
+   „   ·3  }
+           }
+   „   ·3  }
+
+The mean was assumed at 212°·4.
+
+In the evening a series of five readings gave a mean of 212°·3. Temp.
+88°·50 (Fah.).
+
+On return to Victoria Bay (Feb. 23rd) five readings gave a mean of
+212°·1. Temp. 82°·50 (Fah.).
+
+The medium of M. Mann’s instrument was therefore assumed at 212° + ·3.
+The observations were corrected accordingly, and have been marked (M).
+
+Mr. Saker had a French aneroid. I, one by Messrs. Cary, Strand, London,
+an expensive and most carelessly made article, whose hand could not even
+be screwed round for correction.
+
+My B. P. was the zeometer, a new hypsometric apparatus made by Messrs.
+Casella, of 23 Hatton Garden, London. It answered tolerably, but, as has
+appeared, the cup was injured during the descent of the mountain on the
+27th Dec. 1861, after which the glass tube was used in the ordinary way.
+Its observations are marked (B).
+
+The average temperature has been assumed at 78°·5, and the calculations
+have been made by Mr. George, of the Royal Geographical Society.
+
+
+                             OBSERVATIONS.
+
+
+  -------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------
+   Date. |         Station.          |    Observation.     | Altitude.
+  -------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------
+   1861  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 14|Bosumbo                    |  210°·1 (M). Temp.  |1055 feet.
+         |                           |71°. Mean of two Obs.|
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 19|Bosumbo                    |29°·6 Aneroid. Temp. |
+         |                           |        78°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 15|Mapanya                    |28°·2 Aneroid. Temp. |
+         |                           |        79°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 15|Mapanya                    |  207°·3 (M). Temp.  |2610 „
+         |                           |     66°. Morn.      |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 15|Mapanya                    |  207°·2 (M). Temp.  |2683 „
+         |                           |     73°. Even.      |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 21|Ridge Camp                 |27°·2 Aneroid. Temp. |
+         |                           |        68°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+   1862  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Feb. 1 |Fern Gate                  |204° (B). Temp. 80°. |4535 „
+         |                           |                     |
+   1861  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 23|Black Crater               |199° (M). Temp. 63°. |7328 „
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 24|Mann’s Spring              |  198°·7 (M). Temp.  |7466 „
+         |                           |        58°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 24|Mann’s Spring              |  199°·2 (M). Temp.  |7221 „
+         |                           |        63°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 25|Mann’s Spring              |200° (B). Temp. 65°. |6762 „
+         |                           |                     |
+   1862  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 27|Foot of Mount Helen        |198° (B). Temp. 66°. |7932 „
+         |                           |                     |
+   1861  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 24|Top of Mount Helen         |  195°·7 (M). Mean   |9223 „
+         |                           | of five Obs. Temp.  |
+         |                           |       58°·50.       |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 24|Top of Mount Helen         |  195°·4 (B). Temp.  |9383 „
+         |                           |        57°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 27|Below Earthwork Crater     |   24°·15 Aneroid.   |Not worth
+         |                           |                     |calculating.
+         |                           |                     |
+  Dec. 27|Above Earthwork Crater .   |  23°·850 Aneroid.   |Ditto.
+         |                           |                     |
+   1862  |                           |                     |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 28|Crater of Mount Isabel     | 193°·9 (M). Mean of |10,187 „
+         |                           |five Read. Temp. 50°.|
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 28|Summit of Mount Isabel     |  193°·4 (B). Temp.  |10,590 „
+         |                           |        60°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 28|Camp Saker                 |193° (B). Temp. 48°. |10,595 „
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 28|Foot of Victoria Mountain  |  193°·5 (B). Temp.  |10,530 „
+         |                           |        60°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 30|Foot of Mount Hooker       |  192°·7 (M). Temp.  |10,875 „
+         |                           |        48°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 30|Summit of Mount Hooker     |  191°·2 (M). Temp.  |11,725 „
+         |                           |        45°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 14|Victoria Crater            |188°. Temp. 58° Obs. |13,806 „
+         |                           |    by Mr. Saker.    |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 30|Summit of Victoria Mountain|  189°·7 (B). Temp.  |12,696 „
+         |                           |        51°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 29|Summit of Albert Crater    |  189°·5 (B). Temp.  |12,948 „
+         |                           |        62°.         |
+         |                           |                     |
+  Jan. 29|Highest Point of Albert    |  189°·2 (B). Temp.  |13,129 „
+         |Mountain                   |        62°.         |
+  -------+---------------------------+---------------------+------------
+
+In assuming 78°·50 (Fah.) as the mean temperature at sea-level, I have
+been obliged, for want of other comparison, to adopt the mean of M.
+Mann’s observations.
+
+Before leaving Victoria Bay, he made, between the 6th and 12th of
+December, 1861, a series of thirteen maximum and minimum observations,
+whose mean is 79°.
+
+After returning to Victoria Bay, he made five maximum and six minimum
+observations between the 19th and the 24th February, and their mean is
+78°.
+
+My friend Major Noeli, of the Spanish artillery, supplied me at Fernando
+Po with the following table. It will be seen that the mean of December,
+January, and February, 1859-60, are also 78°·50 (Fah.).
+
+
+ OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE BY MAJOR NOELI, H.C.M.’S ARMY, AT FERNANDO
+                             PO, 1859-1860.
+
+
+  Observations taken at 6 a.m., 8 a.m., 10 a.m., noon when possible, 3
+                             p.m., 10 p.m.
+
+      Place:—Room facing N.E., and about 100 feet above sea-level.
+
+  ----------+-----------------+----------+------------------------------
+            |  Thermometer.   |Barometer.|
+     Date.  +----+-----+------+----------+          Remarks.
+            |Max.|Min. |Mean. |  Mean.   |
+  ----------+----+-----+------+----------+------------------------------
+  Sep. 1859.|81·0|69·0 |75·44 |  29·66   |Only taken during last half
+            |    |     |      |          |month. Twelve days’ heavy
+            |    |     |      |          |rain. Frequent fresh breezes
+            |    |     |      |          |when there was no rain.
+            |    |     |      |          |
+  Oct.   „  |83·5|70·0 |76·40 |  29·65   |Nine days’ rain. Sea-breezes
+            |    |     |      |          |when no rain.
+            |    |     |      |          |
+  Nov.   „  |85·0|70·0 |78·05 |  29·61   |Sixteen days’ rain (less
+            |    |     |      |          |copious and shorter), chiefly
+            |    |     |      |          |in early morn. Five mild
+            |    |     |      |          |tornados. Frequent breezes.
+            |    |     |      |          |
+  Dec.   „  |86·0|69·0 |78·90 |  29·59   |9 A.M. 26th. Tornado and
+            |    |     |      |          |rain. Another rainy day, fine
+            |    |     |      |          |drops. Frequent breezes.
+            |    |     |      |          |
+  Jan. 1860.|86·5|67·5 |77·87 |  29·59   |One rainy day. Frequent
+            |    |     |      |          |breezes. Harmattan. Great
+            |    |     |      |          |heat on calm days.
+            |    |     |      |          |
+  Feb.   „  |88·0|69·0 |78·73 |  29·54   |One day’s rain. Various
+            |    |     |      |          |tornados. Sometimes no
+            |    |     |      |          |sea-breeze till 3 P.M. Great
+            |    |     |      |          |heat. Therm. 88° only one day.
+  ----------+----+-----+------+----------+
+  Mean of 6 |85° |69°·1|77°·56|  29·612  |
+  months.   |    |     |      |          |
+  ----------+----+-----+------+----------+------------------------------
+
+ At Fernando Po the barometric wave is at its highest at 9·10 a.m. and
+         9·10 p.m., and at its lowest at 3·4 a.m. and 3·4 p.m.
+
+                                THE END.
+
+         LONDON. PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET
+                           AND CHARING CROSS.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+
+  Page v, in Contents changed: "[Appendix] V." to: "IV.", and inserted
+  "V. REPORTS AND LETTERS TOUCHING AMBAS BAY — 286"
+
+  Page 38, Changed: "to Dr. Baikei’s Niger expedition" to: "Baikie’s"
+
+  Page 46, Changed: "supplies from the mainand" to: "mainland"
+
+  Page 77, Changed: "_Mormida lucida Benthami_" to: "_Morinda_"
+
+  Page 82, Changed: "attire of the Fernadian Bube" to: "Fernandian"
+
+  Page 83, Changed: "a form now well-nigh obselete" to: "obsolete"
+
+  Page 89, Changed: "were ascepiadæ, gardeniaceæ" to: "asclepiadæ"
+
+  Page 139, Changed: "along a crater brenched on the S.E. side" to:
+  "breached"
+
+  Page 239, Changed: "it was usless for me to speak" to: "useless"
+
+  Page 257, Changed: "a rule or law, called Diburnbe" to: "Dibumbe"
+
+  Page 270, Changed: "Sagnia Abyssinica, Hochst." to: "Sagina"
+
+  Page 271, Changed: "Senicula Europæa, L." to: "Sanicula"
+
+  Page 272, Changed: "[Lactuca] glanduligera, n. sp." to: "glandulifera"
+
+  Page 272, Changed: "Anisoraniphus hyperhæroides" to: "Anisoramphus
+  hypochæroides"
+
+  Page 275, Changed: "[Carex] Echnochlœ, Kunth." to: "Echinochlœ"
+
+  Page 277, Changed: "Selagenella" to: "Selaginella"
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79410 ***
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+
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79410 ***</div>
+
+<div class="margins">
+<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
+available by clicking on them.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><a class="link2" href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/79409/79409-h/79409-h.htm">Vol.
+1</a>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure id="i3" class="iw1"><a href="images/i3_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i3.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1">THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.</p>
+
+<p class="cpr"><em>Frontispiece</em>, vol. ii.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<h1><span class="xxlarge letter-spaced01">ABEOKUTA</span><br>
+<span class="small">AND</span><br>
+<span class="xlarge">THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.</span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center large gothic">An Exploration.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 small">BY</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="large105 word-spaced02">RICHARD F.
+BURTON,</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">VICE PRES. ANTHROP. SOC. OF LONDON; GOLD
+MEDALLIST, GEOG. SOCS., PARIS AND LONDON;<br>
+F.R.G.S. LONDON; M.A.S.; M.A.S. BOMBAY; M. ETHNO. S. LONDON.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center small space-above2">“Geography, though an earthly
+study, is a heavenly subject.”—<em>Burke.</em></p>
+
+<p class="center less spaced2 space-above15"><em><span class=
+"letter-spaced">IN TWO VOLUME</span>S.</em><br>
+VOL. II.</p>
+
+<p class="publisher"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">LONDON:</span><br>
+TINSLEY BROTHERS, 18 CATHERINE STREET, STRAND.<br>
+1863.</p>
+
+<p class="center med">[<em>The right of Translation is
+reserved.</em>]</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center small space-above">LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES
+AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_iv">[iv]</span><a id="toc"></a><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">CONTENT</span>S.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c09">CHAPTER IX.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr med">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Diplomacy; Departure, and
+Return to Lagos</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc large sect2">THE CAMAROONS
+MOUNTAINS.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c01">CHAPTER I.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Preliminaries of
+Exploration</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">25</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c02">CHAPTER II.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">We Encamp at ‘Mann’s
+Spring’</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">75</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c03">CHAPTER III.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">First Ascent of Pico
+Grande</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">133</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c04">CHAPTER IV.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Subsequent Ascents by
+Messrs. Calvo, Saker, and Mann</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">162</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c05">CHAPTER V.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">The Final Ascent</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">182</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc sect1"><a href="#c06">CHAPTER VI.</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Return to Fernando Po</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">218</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc large sect2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_v">[v]</span>APPENDICES.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app1">I.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Mr. Grazilhier’s Description of the
+Ambozes Country</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">235</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app2">II.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Mr. Merrick’s Tour in West Africa</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">238</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app3">III.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Flora of the Camaroons Mountains, of
+Clarence Peak, Fernando Po, and of the Peak of San Thomé</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">270</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app4">IV.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Notes on the Fauna of the Camaroons
+Mountains</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">278</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app5">V.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Reports and Letters touching Ambas
+Bay</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">286</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app6">VI.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Meteorological Observations</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">294</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#app7">VII.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 sc">Hypsometrical Table</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">303</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote addit-toi x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc large">ILLUSTRATIONS</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect1">VOL. I.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr med">Facing page</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>[Portrait of the author]</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/79409/79409-h/79409-h.htm#i1">Frontispiece</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>THE PRESENTATION AT COURT</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href=
+"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/79409/79409-h/79409-h.htm#i2">140</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect05top">VOL. II.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#i3">Frontispiece</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>[Map of] THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#map">1</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>LITTLE CAMAROONS, FROM BLACK CRATER</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#i4">128</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MOUNT HELEN</td>
+<td class="tdr"><a href="#i5">136</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure id="map" class="iw2">
+<p class="cpm">THE<br>
+CAMAROONS<br>
+MOUNTAINS</p>
+<a href="images/map_large.jpg"><img src='images/map.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cpc"><em>London, Tinsley, Brothers, Catherine
+Street.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center spaced2 pb space-above"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_1">[1]</span><span class=
+"large105 letter-spaced01">ABEOKUTA</span><br>
+<span class="small">AND</span><br>
+<span class="large105">THE CAMAROONS MOUNTAINS.</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor1">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor1.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">DIPLOMACY; DEPARTURE, AND RETURN TO LAGOS.</p>
+
+<p class="nind">‘<span class="sc">The Captain</span>’ advanced
+swimmingly in his diplomatic movements, much to his own
+satisfaction. But this is a race equally regardless of the past and
+reckless of the future, with whom the present is ever all in all,
+and actual life the ‘be-all and end-all of all things:’ their
+brains are in matters of novelty marble to receive and wax to
+retain: nothing, if to be permanent, can be done in a hurry, or,
+rather, without a long delay: they forget all that has not been
+impressed upon them by many repetitions, and they regard what
+Englishmen call a ‘business-like manner’ with a supreme contempt.
+‘He does half who does quickly,’ should be the Anglo-African’s
+rule.</p>
+
+<p>Wednesday was a holiday; Thursday had its work. About 10·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we proceeded to the
+‘palace,’<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> where we were
+to be honoured with a private interview. This time we came ‘in
+mufti’ as friendly visitors; the demands of dignity had been
+satisfied; it was no longer necessary to keep us waiting or to send
+us back. Passing, as before, under the main entrance into the great
+patio, we entered the smaller and interior court, and sat down in
+the verandah where former audiences had been held. The hangings and
+draperies having been removed, we saw certain daubs like hatchments
+on the walls, placed to show where the Alake’s father and mother
+reposed: they were apparently intended for the human form divine,
+but they were too blurred and smoked to be readily distinguished.
+After sitting for a short time we were summoned into the interior.
+We dived under the verandah, and after a moment of
+<em>demi-jour</em> we emerged into a room where the Alake was
+waiting to receive us.</p>
+
+<p>The room was a complete Roman atrium—a style of architecture for
+which I can assign no reason in these climates. The hypæthral
+portion, where the mid-ceiling might be expected, was garnished
+with a large inverted cone of mat and thatch, which would direct
+the rain into the rude impluvium, a parallelogram sunk in the clay.
+Beneath it various doors opened into other minor rooms, and the
+walls were painted with the usual mixture of horse or
+cow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> dung and indigo.
+Above the great man’s place were hung ten Tower muskets, and a
+leopard’s skin so pale and pink that it might be mistaken for an
+ounce’s.</p>
+
+<p>The Alake lay upon a plain carpet in an alcove at the head of
+the room, and four scattered feathers dangling to a bit of twine
+above him appeared to be his protecting fetish. There were no
+hangings, and his elbow rested upon a common bolster. He was more
+plainly and comfortably attired than usual, in a red fez without
+beads, with blue and red chequered cloths round his middle, the
+rest of the body being exposed to the abebe, or hide-fans of his
+wives. Besides the interpreters, four chiefs were present, namely,
+the two Akpesi, a stout personage called Okolomo, and a gray
+senior, the Lemo of the Ikporo township—each dirty little village
+has here its own dignitaries, and the number of titles seems
+endless. The great men, such as Somoye the Ibashorun, Osho the
+Oja’a or General, and Akodu the Balogun, were at the camp: these
+dignitaries, when not consulted upon public measures, especially
+foreign affairs, can, and probably will, object to everything done
+without their leave. The principal ministers—the ‘setters up and
+pullers down of kings,’—such as Ogubonna, Shokeno, and Ogushaye the
+Anaba, are, alas! no more.</p>
+
+<p>The conference was manifestly intended to be private—for a good
+reason, it might afterwards,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_4">[4]</span> when necessary, be ignored. It began with much
+mystery, and all who entered were dismissed with some indignity.
+Presently, however, it was gradually broken into by women,
+children, and confidential slaves. It reminded me of the
+confabulations of the Sindh Ameers, who on such occasions of
+<em>haute politique</em> stationed guards round their
+council-chamber to keep off eaves-droppers, and soon becoming
+excited, bawled so loud that they could be heard a mile off.</p>
+
+<p>The talkee-talkee lasted about two hours. When the palaver
+flagged a deal table was brought in, and Abeokuta Williams, the
+pedagogue, indited, under dictation, a letter of apology to the
+acting governor of Lagos. The new treaty was then copied out in
+triplicate and signed with all formality. Commander Bedingfield
+wrote the names and marks, whilst the Alake and the two Akpesi,
+grinning as if on a funny occasion—were I in their waist-cloths no
+grin would have come from me—touched the pen’s end with the finger
+tip, and thereby legalized an instrument couched as follows:—</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15"><span class="sc">Treaty</span>.</p>
+
+<p>‘In consequence of the representations of Commander Norman B.
+Bedingfield, R.N., Senior Officer of the Bights Division of H.M.’s
+ships, the Alake<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> and
+the chiefs of Ake express their regret that there should have been
+occasion for the complaint of their want of faith in keeping the
+treaty made between them and H.M.’s Government by Capt. Forbes in
+1852.<a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>‘They now solemnly declare that the three articles mentioned
+below, and to which they have now affixed their names, shall be
+strictly enforced for the future, and be at once made public.</p>
+
+<p>‘1st. With a view of strictly enforcing the 1st Article of the
+above-mentioned treaty, the Alake and chiefs hereby promise to stop
+the roads leading to Okeadon and other places by which slaves are
+sent to the coast for exportation against such export as far as it
+is in their power; and they will also punish severely any of their
+own people against whom it can be proved that they have broken this
+law.</p>
+
+<p>‘2nd. The Alake and chiefs also solemnly declare that now and
+after this date no human being shall be sacrificed either by them,
+their people, or others inside or outside the walls of the town, or
+anywhere else in their territory.</p>
+
+<p>‘3rd. It having been fully explained to the Alake and chiefs by
+Commander Bedingfield the injury caused to legal commerce by
+shutting the road between Lagos and Abeokuta, out of friendship to
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> Queen of England
+they are willing to promise that this road shall never again be
+stopped on any pretext whatever, without the consent and approval
+of H.M.’s Governor at Lagos: provided always, that when it is
+deemed expedient to prevent the Egbas from going to Lagos, the
+merchants must provide themselves with canoe men from that
+place.</p>
+
+<p class="hang3">‘Signed at the King’s Palace, this seventh day of
+November, 1861.</p>
+
+<table class="tsign3" id="t006">
+<tr>
+<td>(Signed)</td>
+<td>‘<span class="sc">The</span> <span class="vdiv"><span class=
+"vdiv-top">his</span><span class="vdiv-mid">+</span><span class=
+"vdiv-bot">mark.</span></span> <span class="sc">Alake</span>.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>(Signed)</td>
+<td>‘<span class="sc">Apesi</span> <span class="vdiv"><span class=
+"vdiv-top">his</span><span class="vdiv-mid">+</span><span class=
+"vdiv-bot">mark.</span></span> <span class="sc">Kemeta</span>.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>(Signed)</td>
+<td>‘<span class="sc">Lemo</span> <span class="vdiv"><span class=
+"vdiv-top">his</span><span class="vdiv-mid">+</span><span class=
+"vdiv-bot">mark.</span></span> <span class="sc">Trocu</span>.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>(Signed)</td>
+<td>‘<span class="sc">Apesi</span> <span class="vdiv"><span class=
+"vdiv-top">his</span><span class="vdiv-mid">+</span><span class=
+"vdiv-bot">mark.</span></span> <span class=
+"sc">Erunoon</span>.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>(Signed)</td>
+<td>‘<span class="sc">Okolomo</span> <span class=
+"vdiv"><span class="vdiv-top">his</span><span class=
+"vdiv-mid">+</span><span class="vdiv-bot">mark.</span></span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-top02">(Signed)</td>
+<td class="pad-top02">‘<span class="sc">Norman B.
+Bedingfield</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 tdc-top no-pad-top med">Commander, R.N., Senior
+Officer for the Bights Division of H.M.’s Ships.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-top02">(Signed)</td>
+<td class="pad-top02">‘<span class="sc">Richard F.
+Burton</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 tdc-top no-pad-top med">Captain, H.B.M.’s Consul,
+Fernando Po.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-top02">(Signed)</td>
+<td class="pad-top02">‘<span class="sc">Henry Eales</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 tdc-top no-pad-top med">Surgeon, H.M.’s Ship
+“Prometheus.”</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-top02">(Signed)</td>
+<td class="pad-top02">‘<span class="sc">David Williams</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 tdc-top no-pad-top med">acting as Secretary to the
+Alake, witness to the above signatures.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-top02">(Signed)</td>
+<td class="pad-top02">‘S. <span class="sc">Williams</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 tdc-top no-pad-top med">Interpreter.’</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>It would hardly be
+believed that within the week after our return to Lagos a letter
+was received from Abeokuta confessing that a human sacrifice had
+taken place in broad daylight, and that some women had been
+kidnapped from the house of a Mr. King. The reason of the Alake and
+chiefs reporting these breaches of faith was their conviction that
+the news would go abroad, and the transaction be
+discovered,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> if not
+communicated by themselves. The misdeeds were not punished. The
+fact is, the subjects are too powerful for the sovereign.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="notepg7"></a><em>Note.</em>—The following is a copy of
+the original treaty concluded with the chief of the Egba nation,
+5th Jan. 1852, and abridged from ‘Hertslet’s Commercial Treaties,’
+vol. ix.:—</p>
+
+<p>Frederick Edwyn Forbes, Esq., Additional Commander of H.M.S.
+‘Penelope,’ on the part of Her Majesty the Queen of England, to the
+chiefs of the Egba nation and of the neighbourhood, on the part of
+themselves and of their country have agreed upon the following
+Articles and Conditions:—</p>
+
+<p>I. Prohibits export of slaves to foreign countries under severe
+punishment.</p>
+
+<p>II. No slave-traders to reside in territory of the king or
+chiefs of Lagos, and no buildings to be erected for the purpose of
+slave-trade; with permission to British officers to destroy such if
+the king consents.</p>
+
+<p>III. Boats engaged in such slave-trade may be seized by British
+officers.</p>
+
+<p>IV. Slaves for exportation shall be delivered to British for
+conveyance to British colonies, where they shall be liberated.</p>
+
+<p>V. European slave treaty to be respected, and slave factories if
+not converted to lawful purposes within three months to be
+destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>VI. British subjects may buy and sell throughout dominions, and
+have favours and privileges of most favoured nation.</p>
+
+<p>VII. <em>Abolishes human sacrifices for religious purposes</em>,
+and prisoners taken in war not to be murdered.</p>
+
+<p>VIII. Affords complete protection to missionaries; allows
+houses, schools, and chapels to be built by missionaries or
+ministers, and sets apart places of sepulture.</p>
+
+<p>IX. Power reserved to French Government to become party to the
+treaty, agreeably with provisions contained in Art. V. of the
+convention between Her Majesty and the King of the French for the
+suppression of the traffic in slaves, signed at London, May 29,
+1845.</p>
+
+<p>In faith of which we have hereunto set our hands and seals at
+Abe, 5 Jan. 1852.</p>
+
+<table id="t008a">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">(L. S.)</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">F. E. <span class=
+"sc">Forbes</span>,</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-right2"><span class="sc">Sagbua</span>.</td>
+<td class="pad-right2"><span class="sc">Obasaron</span>.</td>
+<td class="pad-right2"><span class="sc">Ogubonna</span>.</td>
+<td><span class="sc">Sikeno</span>.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="tdr"><em>Presidents of Abeokuta, or the Egba
+race.</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t008b">
+<tr>
+<td><span class="sc">Tambala</span>, <em>Bulagon of
+Ikerehu.</em></td>
+<td><span class="sc">Akionme</span> <em>for</em> <span class=
+"sc">Arroba</span>, <em>Egba Agorra.</em></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="sc">Imemunu</span>, <em>Owu.</em></td>
+<td><span class="sc">Lagemo</span>, <em>Owe</em>.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center space-above15">SUPPLEMENTARY TREATY.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Art.</span> I. That Sierra Leone emigrants,
+natives of whatsoever country, are not allowed to be kidnapped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">Art.</span> II. That we will not attempt to
+hinder the advance of missionaries, merchants, or others into the
+interior.</p>
+
+<p>In faith of which we have hereunto set our hands and seals at
+Abe, 5 Jan. 1852.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Signed and sealed by the same parties.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>We then took formal leave. I can scarcely, however, quote on
+this occasion,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Such partings break the heart they
+fondly hope to heal.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>In good sooth we all seemed heartily glad to get rid of one
+other and of the whole business. In return for some little presents
+the Alake presented ‘the captain’ with a horse, which was supposed
+to be rather a superior animal. It was afterwards taken to Lagos,
+and sold. With due deference to superior<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_9">[9]</span> judgment, I cannot but think that this part of
+the proceedings was a complete mistake. A present of provisions
+from an African chief or king must often be received, as its
+rejection would be deemed an insult, and an equivalent is easily
+sent back. But the rule which applies to all gifts of horses, arms,
+and jewellery in India ought equally to be carried out at the
+native courts in this part of the world. And, at all events, the
+sale of such present would be looked upon, not as a slight to the
+donor, but as a mark of bad breeding in the donee.</p>
+
+<p>We had entered Abeokuta on Friday, the 1st, and Friday, the 8th
+of November, 1861, was to witness our departure—bad days both. The
+captain had, or fondly supposed that he had, succeeded in the
+principal objects of his mission, the three points of the new
+treaty, viz., the opening to Lagos of the Ogun River—which
+presently became tightly closed; the cessation of human
+sacrifice—which will not cease till the ‘screw’ is ‘turned on’ much
+more tightly; and, lastly, the abolition of the export slave
+trade—which requires to rest upon a much stronger basis than the
+mere marks of a petty barbarian prince and his chiefs.</p>
+
+<p>‘<em>L’homme sensible en voyage</em>,’ says M. Boiste, ‘<em>est
+tenté de s’arrêter chez les premières bonnes gens qu’il trouve:
+chaque départ lui devient un supplice</em>.’ This<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> was not quite our case, for
+Abeokuta was becoming of an almost intolerable dulness: we took
+regretful leave, however, of our hospitable entertainers. At 9
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Commander Bedingfield and I
+walked—without cavalcade—to the Aro Gate, accompanied by Mr.
+Hughes, and closely followed by Mr. Eales and Messrs. Harrison and
+Wike. The luggage had been sent down in the morning, and the first
+and second gigs had been drawn up from midstream, where they had
+anchored, to the landing-place. A wild beast of a Yoruba pony
+charged down upon me, and the umbrella with which the attack was
+received nearly put my eye out: considering, however, that it was
+Friday, I congratulated myself upon a very pretty escape. A final
+libation to Bacchus was poured out, and after another shaking of
+hands we found ourselves once more upon the broad bosom of Father
+Ogun.</p>
+
+<p>The stream is essentially a rain river, filling gradually and
+uniformly, without freshets. During the last week, though there had
+been three heavy down falls, it had sunk several inches, a sure
+sign that the ‘dries’ were setting in. The deeper pools were like
+the beads of a chaplet connected by a thread of shallows, and the
+boat, though drawing barely a foot, touched bottom on each middle
+ground as we crossed the sandbanks joining the salient and
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> re-entering
+angles. Almost within sight of Aro we shot a little rapid, a clear
+way in a ridge of rocks, which seemed to rise under both bows. At
+11·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we dropped past Agbameya, the
+lower port or landing-place of Abeokuta: the ferry, where people
+are sometimes drowned, was in full activity, and the market-wives
+left their blies and baskets of maize and manioc, kankie and fufu,
+to stare at the departing strangers. Another hour, and we were
+alongside of Moroko, where on the up voyage we had halted for a
+pleasant breakfast. Another brought us to Takpana, where the naked
+nigger boys would bathe with their mammas and sisters, who
+apparently do not believe that</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘The chariest maid is prodigal
+enough</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;If she disclose her beauties to the
+moon.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our Krumen found it necessary to lie upon their oars, and to
+‘chop water’ every half-hour, which rendered progress slow.
+Down-stream, however, was very different ‘challing’ from up-stream.
+We reached Baragu about 7·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>; it was
+black dark, and the number of cross ropes rendered the navigation
+of the river peculiarly troublesome after the short twilight had
+been extinguished by the gloom.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a right merry evening at Baragu, where the head-man
+cleared out for us the verandah of a large fetish-house, which
+showed through the bamboo<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_12">[12]</span> walls the usual number of ugly little dolls,
+enshrined in a large bare room. The Baraguans, however, must be a
+somewhat bigoted race. They would not allow us to set foot within
+the sanctuary, an unpleasant contrast with the Rationalists of
+Mabban. The male population squatted round to see ‘the captain’s’
+hammock-lines made taut, and the fairer sex, which still displayed
+the <em>vis superba formæ</em>—in figure, not in face—formed an
+outer ring. A drum soon made its appearance, and after we had
+passed round a social glass of toast, rum, and gin, the merriment
+waxed fast and furious. There was singing, feasting, and dancing;
+in fact, quite an African ‘swarry,’ only lacking the mutton and
+caper sauce. Our hosts were perfectly civil and obliging, and so
+were our hostesses—rather too much so I could prove, if privileged
+to whisper into the reader’s ear. But what would Mrs. Grundy say?
+The night was soft and balmy; after the reeking sunny day, we
+enjoyed the refreshing season of rest, and the verandah floor,
+though not without knots, was more satisfactory than a feather bed
+in the best bedroom of ——. Upon the whole, our trip was decidedly
+‘jolly.’</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday, the 9th, we arose betimes, and left Baragu at 5·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, before any of the revellers were
+awake: these people have the good sense to sleep as long as they
+can. The river-fog was as dense and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_13">[13]</span> clammy as ever; the snags were numerous; so
+were the ropes, and we were obliged to row carefully for fear of an
+upset. About sunrise we halted for a few minutes at Illugu, where
+the ill-fated Sancho (pronounced Sanco) had strayed from his
+mourning owner. The Krumen went up to the village, and inquired
+concerning that amiable but mangy animal—in vain; our pleasant
+companion had probably found a living grave in the bread-basket of
+some hard-iliac’d Illaguan—the canine <em>salmi</em> is relished by
+these races—and we left the fatal spot with spirits sadly
+depressed.</p>
+
+<p>Halting for breakfast at Igaon, we had the satisfaction of
+finding Mr. and Mrs. Johnson in the very best of health. The
+head-man brought us a fowl, for which he demanded rum or a head of
+cowries; he then begged for something to eat, and was told that it
+was his duty to take in, not to let in the stranger. He was also
+warned that sundry complaints against him had been sent to Lagos,
+and that he must no longer levy ‘black mail’ upon travellers and
+canoe-men going up the river. Our stay was short; the rum was
+ended, and the claret running very low; we were naturally anxious
+to arrive at a place of plenty—Lagos. There is one advantage in
+these excursions. Although the <em>jeunesse dorée</em> of Abeokuta
+looks upon that sea-port much as the English young woman
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> the
+country-house regards the season and the great matrimonial bazar of
+London, I had hitherto held it to be the last and lowest of created
+places, save and except only Fernando Po. Twelve days of sweltering
+at ‘Understone’ had so modified my views, that it now rose before
+the mental eye as the home of comfort and luxury. Thus Saadi’s
+philosopher cured his slave of howling with terror in the boat by
+throwing him for a few minutes into the sea.</p>
+
+<p>We left Igaon at 8·40 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, and after
+passing sundry settlements, which were not exactly like</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the
+plain,’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">we halted off the mouth of the Agboi Creek to await
+Mr. Eales in the second gig. Commander Bedingfield and I determined
+to inspect the longer route, <em>viâ</em> the main stream, and the
+‘doctor’ was equally resolved to reach head-quarters with the least
+possible delay.</p>
+
+<p>At 10·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we parted, and struck in
+the first gig down the lower Ogun. It rapidly narrowed, and in
+places widened out again. The banks on both sides were thickly
+forested, and we judged from the number of the paths abutting upon
+the water that many villages must be scattered through the bush.
+The river appeared, however, almost deserted; hardly a canoe was
+upon its waters, and the windings at<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_15">[15]</span> times threatened a return to ‘Understone.’
+The fishing-ropes also were many and troublesome; being thinner
+than those in the upper stream, they more than once unshipped our
+rudder. About half-way we passed on the right a wretched
+fishing-village—six huts, mere wattlings, thatched with
+palm-leaves, raised on piles above the inundation, redolent of
+squalor, and surrounded by filth and fetid mud. We asked its name,
+and were told ‘Ojogu.’</p>
+
+<p>Advancing, we found that as we neared the mouth the river
+narrowed. Such is frequently the case in these regions, where the
+beds of streams want slope, and where the soppy ground,
+half-reclaimed from the waves, absorbs the greater part of the
+down-flow. For the reverse reason, the head or upper waters are,
+for the most part, mill-torrents. We were fortunate enough to meet
+a canoe at a critical point where the Ogun falls; the left appeared
+to be the larger branch, but it terminated in a <em>cul de
+sac</em>. Taking the right, we bade leave to forest trees, in which
+the long-tailed monkeys were disporting themselves, ascending the
+topmost boughs for the benefit of their health, and cautiously and
+curiously walking along the horizontal branches, to enjoy, as we
+went by, a better reconnoitre of their ‘big brothers.’ Presently we
+entered the mangrove forest, whose aërial roots, a conework of
+props converging where the trunk springs,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_16">[16]</span> must often have been upwards of fifteen feet
+high; it is not improbable that they suggested to the first African
+the idea of the first hut. In some places, especially at the
+bifurcation of the river, the trees were so high and thick that
+they suggested the idea of a raised bank—a frequent formation near
+the courses of West African creeks and rivers. It is probably
+caused by the vegetation being based upon a firmer soil, not upon
+the soft mud in which the smaller and more scrubby mangrove
+delights.</p>
+
+<p>We came to the conclusion that the line of the main river was
+considerably longer than that of the Agboi Creek, and the eastern
+sweep of the former, compared with the regular northing of the
+latter, justified it. Presently the mangroves lessened in size, and
+the stream narrowed to a few yards: it was so thickly banked with
+tall, light-green grasses and aquatic plants that the oars could
+hardly work, and we anticipated the pleasing task of turning back.
+A short furlong, however, exposed the broad and well-known face of
+the Ikoradu water, which we greeted as if it had been a firm
+friend, instead of a fierce enemy, to the white man. According to
+all local authorities, Father Ogun, until quite lately, boasted of
+a broad and open mouth, such as becomes a sacred stream; of late
+years it has apparently been blocked up by its own growth. This
+must greatly reduce<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>
+its value; none but the smallest of river tugs could plough a way
+through the tangled entrance; and thus communication on an
+extensive scale between Lagos and Abeokuta will be confined to
+canoes, roads, tramways, and eventually the rail.</p>
+
+<p>Exactly at noon we found ourselves in the lagoon. The coast here
+forms a deep, narrow bight, with a comparatively high and a
+densely-wooded point, extending far out on each side. To our left,
+or westward, lay the market-place or bazar, where the bushfolk and
+the citizens of Ikoradu meet every eight days. There were a few
+tattered huts, all at that time deserted. They are about half an
+hour’s walk from the town. The way is a deep rut in the red clay,
+forming during the rains a rivulet unmanageable to any nag but a
+Yoruban, and at all times tiresome to English feet and ankles. The
+land is a mass of impenetrable vegetation, where no umbrella is
+wanted till within a few yards of the habitations. On a subsequent
+occasion I visited it with Mr. M‘Coskry, and found it to be the
+normal Yoruba settlement, girt with clay wall and dry ditch, and
+gates like bungalows for the accommodation of the guards. The
+interior was a <em>rus in urbe</em>, containing much more jungle
+than house. The only semi-civilized being seemed to be a native
+teacher stationed there for propagandist purposes. Formerly it was
+committed to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> the
+charge of M. Flad, a German missionary. The people were by no means
+startled by the weird apparition—and none but the smallboys showed
+emotion—and we were allowed to saunter into and about the open
+Ogboni lodge, whose inmates we inspected with that nonchalant stare
+peculiar to Britons and to the higher order of savages. ‘Produce
+me,’ said Mr. Jollins, ‘a respectable inhabitant of an English
+country town, and I will match him in the matter of solid and
+silent staring against any man over the whole surface of the
+world.’ On another and a subsequent occasion, however, the burghers
+of Ikoradu town were not so civil to a party of more dignified
+visitors, and if rumour speak truth, their town somewhat narrowly
+escaped a summary bombardment.</p>
+
+<p>Return we to the first gig, which was in no pleasant plight, as
+she emerged from the embrace of Father Ogun. The sea-breeze blew
+steadily in our faces, and the tide ran strong against us. We were
+still seven miles from Lagos, and our progress was painfully slow,
+chiefly owing, said ‘the captain,’ to the size and the obstinacy of
+my umbrella. As we progressed, a new appearance was noticed in the
+water, which was verdant with a substance apparently floating up
+with the tide. The material was disposed in clots, lumps, and
+balls, varying in size from a pin’s head to a grape-shot, which
+when taken in the hand,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_19">[19]</span> proved to be slimy and soft, like
+agglomerations of decayed vegetable matter. We afterwards found the
+beach at Lagos pea-green with several inches of the deposit, which,
+after drying in the sun, emitted a most peculiar and offensive
+odour.<a id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class=
+"fnanchor">[2]</a> The thermometer showed 6° (Fah.) higher than
+usual, and the sea breeze, which usually sets in at 11 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, delayed till the afternoon: there was no change
+in the barometer. The deposit was first remarked on November 8th,
+and the merchants lost no time in removing it from their ‘beaches.’
+The old hands, however, began to presage evil, and their
+predictions were accomplished but too well. Out of ninety-eight
+English crew, H.M.S. ‘Prometheus’ had lost during twenty-three
+months only two men from fever, and during the last third of the
+year, when she had been lying off Lagos, exposed to all its evil
+influences, there was only one decidedly febrile case on board. But
+these climates are treacherous beyond description. Immediately
+after the appearance above noticed, the sick began to flock in
+apace; we heard first of one death, then a second,—whilst twelve
+bad cases were reported. Before the end of December there were
+one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> hundred and seven
+fevers, intermittent, remittent, and continued: between 14th of
+November and December 3rd, no less than forty-eight were on the
+sick list. Finally, after a few weeks, except one old quartermaster
+there was not a ‘Promethean’ who had not had fever; and it was only
+by removal to Ascension Island, where fifty-seven men were sent,
+that the lives of the crew were saved.</p>
+
+<p>At 1 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we sighted the second gig
+emerging from the Agboi creek. We flattered ourselves that her
+course would be a hypothenuse, and much we prayed that she might
+ground or stick; but Jupiter turned a deaf ear—she beat us by a
+good half-hour. Doubtless that umbrella! Our Krumen were urged to
+exertion by an awful-looking cloud, a purple black pall, with a
+broad, white arch, that seemed to open a gateway for the coming
+blasts, and the mass rose steadily against the wind, which
+presently fell to a calm. At 5 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we
+landed, after twelve days’ absence, at Lagos, somewhat wiser if not
+better men. After passing—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Per varios casus, per tot discrimina
+rerum—’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">all on a very small scale, I reinstated myself with
+a lively sensation of pleasure in the old quarters at the house of
+my kind and hospitable friend, M‘Coskry, where it was easy to
+forget the minute discomforts and inconveniences of our Flying
+Visit to Abeokuta.</p>
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>L’ENVOI.</h3>
+
+<p>Yoruba, as the list of its trade articles proves, may in time
+become a valuable possession, and its sole important port, Lagos,
+is now in our hands. The seaboard will supply large quantities of
+palm oil; the interior is rich in shea butter, ivory, and, if due
+encouragement be given, a certain amount of cotton. The gossipium,
+even wild, is, and I believe always will be, better than the best
+crop ever grown in India. The transit is shorter, and should be
+less costly. At present, however, there is a want of population,
+resulting from three causes—human sacrifice, slave exporting, and
+petty wars.</p>
+
+<p>Human sacrifice does not absorb much of the population; but it
+points to habits of destruction, and to a moral degradation which
+cannot but be prejudicial to the increase of a birth rate. Slave
+export still thrives in the Bight of Benin: the Ijaye are said
+during the last two years to have lost 20,000 of their number,
+partly kidnapped for domestic slavery, partly exported to Cuba.
+Petty wars are at present the normal condition of the land, and the
+causes are so complicated, that nothing but <em>main forte</em> can
+put them down. The Moslems of the Sudan, or Upper Nigerian regions,
+are pressing heavily upon the peoples of the South. The Yorubas, or
+non-maritime<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> races,
+removed sixty miles from the seaboard, are fighting for free
+transit. The Egbas, or tribes lying between Yoruba and the coast,
+especially the Abeokutans, under pretence of recovering their
+ancestral homes, are contending for the monopoly of the road, and
+are aspiring to change honest labour for the lazy life of brokers
+or middlemen, like the townsmen at the mouth of the Oil Rivers in
+the Bight of Biafra. It is evident that, under such circumstances,
+regularity, which is the first requisite of the cotton crop, cannot
+be expected.</p>
+
+<p>The remedy for these various evils consists in stationing at
+Lagos a military force sufficiently strong to impose terms upon
+obstinate breakers of the public peace. As bygone details have
+proved, no extensive establishment is required; the force need not
+exceed six hundred men. At present, the people require a lesson:
+they own the superiority of the English by sea, but—the error is
+excusable—they still hold themselves to be on land the greatest
+warriors in the world. To consult economy rather than efficiency at
+Lagos, is—quoting an old saying—‘to throw good money after bad.’
+The object of such a colony should be economy; to diminish the
+expense of a squadron which, including head-money for captured
+slaves, and other minor items, can hardly amount to less than one
+million of pounds sterling per<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_23">[23]</span> annum.<a id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> As the West African coast
+comes more directly under our command, this disbursement may be
+reduced to one-tenth.</p>
+
+<p>We have now an excellent opportunity of trying a novel and
+modern experiment in colonization, and I sincerely hope that
+experience will have enabled us to steer clear of the errors and
+misconceptions that have operated so fatally upon our settlements
+at Bathurst and Sierra Leone. The latter is, indeed, a warning. If
+the exact reverse of everything that was done in the early part of
+the present century had been done, we might have seen a thriving
+and extensive colony of liberated negroes where now there is a
+wretched and degraded population of hucksters and idlers.<a id=
+"FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>There need no longer be any objection to stationing European
+officials at Lagos. A future page will show that, within two days’
+steam of that dangerous port, there is a mountain range which, with
+little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> labour, may be
+made a sanitarium for the whole coast of Western Intertropical
+Africa. Camaroons Mountain, where snow falls at times all the year
+round, and upon whose glorious summit the mercury sinks at night
+below zero at all seasons, is thus more easily and effectually
+connected with Lagos than the Mahabuleshwar Hill Station is with
+Bombay.</p>
+
+<p>I need hardly repeat the phrase <em>publicâ trita manu</em>,
+that if my exertions tend in any way to develop the resources of
+the West Coast of Africa, my expenditure of time and trouble will
+have been amply repaid.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc09">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
+"label">[1]</span></a>See <a href="#notepg7"><em>Note</em></a> on
+page 7.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
+"label">[2]</span></a>It appears at uncertain intervals about June,
+lining the beach and extending for some yards from the water. Mr.
+Eales found by the microscope that it was composed of animal and
+vegetable in different stages of decomposition, and gas was
+evolved, most probably sulphuretted and carburetted hydrogen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
+"label">[3]</span></a>A thoroughly efficient blockading squadron
+would consist of at least 13 steam-cruisers, besides a
+provision-ship, and a frigate for the Commodore’s flag, viz.:—</p>
+
+<table class="padded05 bd-collapse" id="t023">
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-right2">For the North Coast</td>
+<td class="bd-right pad-right05">3</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">The Bight of Biafra</td>
+<td>1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad-right2">The Bight of Benin</td>
+<td class="bd-right pad-right05">4</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">The South Coast</td>
+<td>5</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>This is not more than the squadron which the French Government
+stations off Goree and St. Louis de Senegal, but I am convinced
+that the prevention of slavery would be more easily effected by
+land than by sea. The mere capture of slavers exasperates the evil
+by rendering other shipments necessary. The encouraging and
+supporting commerce, induces the people to turn their attention
+from illicit to licit traffic.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
+"label">[4]</span></a>N.B.—This was written in 1861.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="center spaced17 pb space-above"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_25">[25]</span><span class="large105">THE CAMAROONS
+MOUNTAINS.</span><br>
+<span class="med">AN EXPLORATION.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width5">
+
+<h2 class="nopb"><a id="c01"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">PRELIMINARIES OF EXPLORATION.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">There</span> are few spots on the
+earth’s surface where more of grace and grandeur, of beauty and
+sublimity, are found blended in one noble panorama than at the
+equatorial approach on the west coast of Africa. The voyager’s eye,
+fatigued by the low, flat, melancholy shores of Benin and Upper
+Biafra, rests with inexhaustible delight upon a ‘Gate,’ compared
+with which Bab el-Mandeb and the Pillars of Hercules are indeed
+tame. To his right towers Santa Isabel, the Peak of Fernando Po,
+marked in the chart as 10,700 feet above sea-level: on his left is
+a geographical feature more stupendous still, where the Camaroons
+Mountain, whose height is popularly laid down at 13,760 feet, seems
+to spring from the wave, and to cast its shadow half-way across the
+narrow intervening channel, whose minimum breadth does not exceed
+nineteen miles. They are evidently sister formations, these giant
+pyramids;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> they wear a
+family look; their shoulders, clad in flowing garments of evergreen
+vegetation, converge gradually, and almost continuously, at an
+angle of about 12°, till they meet at a neck upon which a
+superimposed conical head denotes the great central spiracle.<a id=
+"FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> In
+the island, however, superior humidity prolongs the woody region,
+whilst the continental mountain, some 3000 feet more elevated,
+shows a greater expanse of grassy surface clear of high trees.
+Remarkable also is the variety of the scene, which is rarely beheld
+under the same aspect. Now, through the thin grey haze of the fair
+season which paints all Nature with its own hues, they rise like
+spectres from the ‘vapour foot’ below, the umbras of mountains in
+the shadowy realm. Then they disappear mysteriously behind a dense,
+dark loom, affording at times a glimpse through the festoons and
+hangings of mist and cloud that are caught and held by the rough,
+tree-clad surface. Then, especially after tornado-rains, profile
+and fold stand out with a marvellous distinctness that brings them
+within a quarter of their real distance. Their waists, where the
+North-east Trade and the South-west<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_27">[27]</span> Rain-winds meet, are often girt with a
+sharply-defined, delicate zone of sea-cloud, cumuloni-rollers,
+snow-white when shone upon by the sun, below in strata, which,
+forming a new base for the upper half, show an Ossa piled upon many
+a Pelion: a lower girdle of land-cloud is also not unfrequent,
+while fleecy little cirri dance like aërial sprites over the Peak.
+And sometimes upon the further summit of the Camaroons Mountain, a
+broad sheet, distance-dwarfed to a mere fleck, of a dead and
+absolute white, which cannot be confounded with cloud, lava, or
+dolomite, tells of snow within four degrees of the equator. But the
+time to behold it is when there is a cloudless sky: in the soft and
+misty air its hues are so fresh, so melting, so tender, that it is
+a sensual enjoyment to gaze upon them. Then the channel, crisped
+and freshened by the remnants of the Northern Trades, winds
+beautifully blue between them; and the monarchs of West African
+mountains throned in sapphire, all gorgeous purple below, passing
+into the lightest azure above, raise toward the empyrean their
+heads jewelled with the gold of a tropical sunshine. Such a picture
+can never fade from the memory of man.</p>
+
+<p>And there are marvels and wonders connected with them,
+especially with the unexplored Camaroons.<a id=
+"FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class=
+"fnanchor">[6]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>
+This is the only point of the West African coast still presenting
+the same features described in the log-book of Hanno the
+Carthaginian—the admiral, general, historian, and first of
+lion-tamers.</p>
+
+<p>For long centuries navigators have sailed along its base, but no
+foot has ever ventured to tread that little hump, which, as in the
+Pico of Tenerife, denotes the apex. Portuguese and Spaniard, Dutch,
+English, and French, have all been contented to wonder and to
+admire from afar this great landmark of the western shores. The
+coast-people declare that they have seen fire bursting out of the
+ground; and from Clarence Town in Fernando Po smoke has been
+observed more than once to issue from the summit of the ‘Mount of
+Heaven,’ as they call the Theon Ochema, upon which, 600 years
+before our era, the old Carthaginians gazed in fear. In the pages
+of a contemporary writer upon the West Coast of Africa, its uplands
+narrowly escaped being garnished with a race of Dokos and Kimos,
+dwarfs and pigmies, and <em>hommes à queue</em>, the mysterious
+Ding-Dings and Nyam-Nyams.</p>
+
+<p>Having left pestilential Lagos on the 21st November, 1861, in
+H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound,’ Lieut.-Commander Dolben, R.N., after visiting
+the dull and deadly Brass and Bonny rivers I determined to refresh
+myself with a nearer view of the Camaroons Mountain,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> and to prospect the chances of
+carrying out a long-cherished project of exploring it. As we
+approached the goal on the dawn of the 10th December, a jealous
+cloud, like the vapour which further north invests Madeira and the
+Canaries, seemed resolved to hide its majesty from our eyes. Before
+sunrise, however, every stain of mist had, as frequently happens,
+disappeared. For a distance of ten miles a huge blue silhouette
+stood before us, the upper heights gilt by the yet unrisen sun, and
+the lower expanse still blue-black with lingering night. The dorsal
+swell was everywhere so regular that it gave to the whole the
+appearance of one vast mountain rising from a single base. Every
+quarter of an hour, however, brought a change in the magnificent
+spectacle. Presently the south-western profile was broken by three
+serrations; the highest is the uppermost of a group, to which we
+afterwards gave the name of the Three Sisters; below it was an
+extinct Vesuvius, the Little Camaroons of old sailors, surging
+apparently impracticable and perpendicular from a rolling sea of
+vegetation; lower still was the Botoki cone, a small but
+independent feature, clearly seen from Fernando Po; and in the
+maritime region hummocky hills and dromedary’s backs here formed
+headlands, heaving out in accumulative grandeur from the Atlantic,
+whose mighty swell, slow and measured, broke at their feet, there
+sank blended with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> the
+winding, waving shore, that dipped below the misty horizon. With
+the increased clearness of morning, we began to understand that
+what we had supposed to be a plain surface of tropical forest in
+the lower basal half, is a succession of long striated ridges, with
+intervening barrancas, valleys, and ravines; whilst the dots, which
+had before puzzled us, were wooded protuberances,—‘parasitic’ cones
+they are called by those who would quiet their consciences with a
+technical word.<a id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class=
+"fnanchor">[7]</a> Higher up we could distinctly trace the line
+where the forest region yields to that of grass and shrubs: there
+again appeared a multitude of little lumps, an eruption of warts
+upon the epidermis of the giant; they looked like mole-hills from
+below; above they will become sugar-loaves, bosses, and ‘volcanic
+blowing cones,’ like the ‘<em>hornitos</em>’ or oven-shaped
+hillocks speckling the Mal Pais plain of Mexican Jorullo. And the
+terminal domelet, evidently bald and bare, wore, when the first
+delicate rays of the rosy sun had faded from it, a brown-black,
+tempered by the intervening blue, but contrasting strongly with the
+reddish-yellow which winter, or rather the dry season, had already
+strewed upon the grass-slopes beneath it. As we steamed into the
+beautiful Ambas, or Victoria Bay,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_31">[31]</span> with its protecting islets on our right hand,
+all admired, after the mangrove-haunted river, the sublimity and
+the passing loveliness of the scene; above our heads the noble pile
+capped with its fissured cupola; before us the dwarf earth-banks
+and the beetling cliffs that margined the mirrory sea, and the
+forest with its infinite tintage, here ruddy, there almost white,
+now dark as spinach, then of the lightest leek-green. Some compared
+it to Navarino Bay, others to the once young and charming Sierra
+Leone, as she appears in pictures, before fire had wasted the now
+deadly land. It is fortunate that the devils of this paradise have
+not yet learned, like the Timni and their brethren the ‘colonists,’
+to disforest the soil; when the operation of bush-clearing is
+carried out, care should be taken to leave all the finest trees
+standing.</p>
+
+<p>Running with an easterly course, we passed a detached rock which
+we called ‘The Hulk’—<em>prosit!</em> Beyond it, at the foot of the
+Botoki cone, where Capt. Allen places his Batoki village,<a id=
+"FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>
+appeared the Point Limboh of our maps, a rugged, forested head,
+forming the north-west buttress of Ambas Bay. We then<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> fronted a green and shaggy
+amphitheatre, which apparently had no break nor outlet, and soon
+afterwards we found it composed of two shallow rocky waves in the
+coast, the further cove being our destination. On the port-bow
+rose, needle-like, from the waves, sheer and steep-to, the Bubyá
+Islands, ridiculously enough called the Pirate Rocks; the
+distinctly columnar shape of these pinnacled ‘inches,’ the fornos,
+souffleurs, or blowing-holes, in their bases and their water-worn
+arches revealed a basaltic formation. Continuing our course in ¼
+less 10 fathoms, we left on the starboard bow Ndami, miscalled
+Ambas, or Amboize Island, a long, narrow chine of black rock,
+partially greened over and dotted at the northern and western ends
+with about a dozen huts; a violent surf, urged by the south-west
+winds, breaks around it during the rainy season. We then passed
+northward of ‘Mondoleh,’ or rather ‘Mondori,’ Island, which is
+defended in this direction by outlying rocks and reefs. It is an
+egg-shaped rock, woody and shady, bluff towards the north, and
+sloping seawards in the south. It appeared to all of us the best
+preparatory position for a sanitarium, and as such I shall revert
+to it.</p>
+
+<p>Presently, at 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, we anchored in
+three fathoms water off the mouth of Morton Cove, so called from a
+certain patron of the Baptist Mission. This
+north-eastern<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> and
+innermost recess of Ambas Bay, being completely land-locked towards
+the weather, must offer, one would suppose, at all seasons an
+excellent station to boats. The southern part is shoal and sandy,
+and the bottom is dotted with diabolitos with basaltic points,
+sometimes covered by the tide, and making it a dangerous anchorage
+for ships. In the Hydrographic Chart the dimensions of the chord of
+Morton Cove are unduly reduced. It supplies an abundance of the
+purest water: a little perennial stream falls into the centre of
+the arc; the heights are covered with noble timber; there is an
+abundance of building material, stone being as common as in Madeira
+and Tenerife; whilst specimens of coralline brought up by the
+fishermen show that here, as at San Thomé, the growth of madrepore
+would supply the settlement with lime. And there is a walk round
+the cove over a soft dark sand, formed, like that of Fernando Po,
+by a detritus of basalt about a mile and a half long and, at low
+water, fifty yards wide.</p>
+
+<p>The good ship lay about eight hundred yards W.S.W. of the
+Missionary station Victoria, and thus commanded a fine view of the
+site where the future town will be. The position is a broken uneven
+ledge, formed by alluvium from the mountains almost
+immediately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> behind
+it, and extending from one to two miles towards the sea bounding it
+on the south. Within an easy walk of two hours, and bearing 65°
+E.N.E. from the Mission House, is a rounded tree-clad cone, called
+by the Baptists Mount Henry; this would be the second step towards
+the upper sanitarium, to which—suddenness of change often induces a
+relapse of fever in these exceedingly tropical lands,—patients
+should not be conveyed too rapidly. Immediately behind the
+settlement is a gorgeous and gigantic growth of equatorial forest,
+which would require to be cleared or thinned before aught else
+could be done; at present it is almost impassable during the rains,
+and at all seasons it breeds swarms of sandflies and mosquitos. The
+dwarf enclosure which backs the houses runs about half a mile each
+way, and might grow to half a dozen times the size. At present
+there are ten habitations, two of iron and the rest of timber. The
+three of superior appearance fronting the sea command a fine view
+of the bay-islets, the densely wooded promontories, and the rival
+peak of Fernando Po, springing gnomon-like from the bosom of the
+ocean. Opposite the principal abode, the Mission House, are
+scattered rocks, forming a natural breakwater, which could easily
+be converted into a pier. This was proposed some twenty years ago,
+but Africa moves even more slowly than England—not a
+stone<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> has been laid.
+The walls are dry lines of basaltic blocks and boulders, which
+everywhere strew the surface; there is also good clay for bricks.
+About three-quarters of a mile from, and appearing to command the
+settlement, is Mount Helen, a finely wooded cliff, admirably fitted
+for the site of a convict prison; it is a dangerous rocky point in
+windy weather, and at all times the surf is bad. On the sandstrip
+below, and east of the mission establishment, are long cadjan’d
+sheds, used as boat-houses and places of barter; in the Admiralty
+Chart the place is marked ‘Plantain market on Fridays.’ Here on
+every third day the islanders and the savages from the upper slopes
+meet to change their fruits and vegetables, chiefly cocoas and
+yams, palm-nuts and bananas, for salt, tobacco, small wares, and
+dried fish of various kinds, the chief demand of the interior.
+About two miles to the eastward is a second hamlet, which can be
+reached either by footpath or by canoe; it is also held every third
+day, and the articles of ‘round trade’ are the same. A local
+feud—one is prevailing now—often breaks off the ‘bazar’ for weeks;
+faction-fights with stones are not uncommon; and when the Bimbia
+people from the east kidnap a woman or two the upper clans fear to
+descend. In the best of times only a few pounds of provisions are
+procurable at these markets. It is evident that a colony landing at
+Victoria should be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>
+supplied with frame houses and rations<a id=
+"FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>
+until with reasonable industry it could support itself. The reader
+must not readily credit the various assertions recklessly made
+touching the quantity of provisions at Victoria. On the other hand,
+as freight is easily brought from the neighbouring rivers Bimbia
+and Camaroons, it is not likely that the Victorians, like the tars
+of the Elizabethan navy, are always raising, as their rivals
+declare, the pitiful cry, ‘Vittels! vittels! vittels!’ As will
+presently appear, there is great fierceness between the two rival
+settlements; though the battle for bread does not rage fiercely in
+these bilious lands, yet the only amity lies in community of
+interests, and none but a stranger—like myself—would attempt to
+speak out the truth.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Dolben and I, embarking in the first gig, despised
+the fine-weather passage leading towards the site of the future
+pier. We crossed in safety the little angry bar, and landed on a
+shingly beach, narrow as usual: on this part of the African coast
+there are none of the broad yellow sands that beautify the edges of
+the Asiatic seas. Then we walked a few yards to the rock-garnished
+mouth of a second little<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_37">[37]</span> river which bounds the missionary clearing on
+the west. It is a mountain-burn, the drainage of the uplands, but a
+few yards wide, and barely chin-deep; it is, however, perennial,
+and extraordinarily sweet; ever cool in the hottest season, and
+overarched with shady trees, which require nothing but clearing.
+The bottom is neatly spread with pebbles of black basalt, all more
+or less porous; red volcanic stones and scoriæ, well rounded and
+water-rolled. It is a delightful bath for those who can despise
+threats of fever, and it is the model of a trout stream, although
+we saw in it only the smallest of fry.</p>
+
+<p>After bathing and giving orders to fill casks, we walked towards
+the settlement, which is not more than three hundred yards from the
+stream, and were presently met by Messrs. Diboll and Mann, who
+showed us the narrow path through the bush. The Rev. Mr. Saker was
+then at his head-quarters on the Camaroons River, of which this
+establishment is an outpost; we therefore paid a short visit to his
+amiable family, and then departed.</p>
+
+<p>I had arrived, however, at an apparently auspicious moment for
+my long-cherished project. M. Mann in 1860 had ascended a few
+hundred feet of the Camaroons mountains, but having lacked time,
+and perhaps having overestimated the difficulties, he had returned
+unsatisfied to Fernando Po, and he was now girding his loins
+for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> a second attempt
+to scale a mountain whose glorious pinnacles had never felt the
+foot of man.<a id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class=
+"fnanchor">[10]</a> He is a young man of twenty-five, a native of
+Brunswick, a gardener from the Royal Gardens, Kew, to which he was
+recommended by the Court of Hanover. Originally attached, in 1859,
+to Dr. Baikie’s Niger expedition in place of the lamented Dr.
+Barter, he has been continued as Government botanist in West Africa
+by the Admiralty, with the ostensible motive of inspecting the
+timber. The ‘Amabilis scientia’—whose votaries, however, can at
+times be as cross as poets—appears still at a discount in public
+opinion. Whilst in these days the geologist holds his head high,
+one rarely reads of a detached ‘botaniker;’ as a rule the ‘poor
+herbalist’ is attached as a decent appendage to some Government
+expedition. Economy is often made to entrench upon utility. And why
+should the collector, after bearing the heat and burden of the day,
+lose his reward? Why should not ‘Hooker’s Niger Flora’ be known as
+‘Vogel’s Herbarium described by Hooker’? And yet another point. Why
+should not the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span>
+collector be allowed to reserve a certain percentage of new plants
+to study and to name after his friends? We are certainly afflicted
+in this century with a terrible thirst for small fame, but it is a
+pity that justice should be sacrificed to it; for which reason, and
+not invidiously, I venture upon these remarks. If the practical
+English public ask the <em>cui bono</em> of a botanist beyond the
+mere science, it may be answered that, setting aside the question
+of timber, the soil of these regions is capable of being made a
+mine of wealth when science shall have decided upon what it is best
+capable of producing.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile M. Mann, after visiting the Bagroo river, near Sierra
+Leone and Barracoon Point, on the Niger, made, after twice failing,
+two ascents (in April and December, 1860) of Fernando Po Peak,
+where he was guided by a Spanish official, M. Pellon, the Special
+Delegate of Public Works. Their visit was the second ever made to
+the summit, the late Mr. Beecroft’s being the first. He
+subsequently ascended to the summits of Prince’s Island and San
+Thomé, and visited the Gaboon and other African rivers. He has been
+indefatigable in collecting and in preserving his collections, and
+has supplied one of the greatest desiderata in botanical
+geography.<a id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class=
+"fnanchor">[11]</a> The<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_40">[40]</span> results have been to establish: ‘1. An
+intimate relationship with Abyssinia, of whose flora that of the
+Fernandian Peak is a member, and from which it is separated by 1800
+miles of absolutely explored country; 2. A curious relationship
+with the East African Islands, which are still further off; 3. An
+almost total dissimilarity from the Cape flora.’<a id=
+"FNanchor_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>
+With the West African Islands again, contrary to expectation, there
+is no marked relationship whatever.</p>
+
+<p>M. Mann had once more left Fernando Po on the 4th December,
+1861, and, landing at Victoria, had begun his preparations without
+delay. There were the usual difficulties to be encountered; the
+bush people would give no guide, and the chiefs refused passage.
+Two days after his arrival he was ready to revisit the terminus of
+his last year’s march, which he knew by the name of Mapanya. A
+‘Mokwiri,’<a id="FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class=
+"fnanchor">[13]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>
+however, at Victoria, informed the traveller that the real Mapanya
+still remained unvisited, and offered to act as guide, requiring
+for himself and his five boys each five ‘big tings,’ here
+equivalent to five pounds. This exorbitant demand of thirty pounds
+for a mere preliminary lasted two days, when M. Mann definitely
+refused, and the fellow disappeared. At the next market Mr.
+Pinnock, a native missionary of the Baptist establishment, and his
+colleague, Mr. Johnson, enabled the botanist by great exertion to
+engage a guide. The man was a native of Mapanya, but living at a
+lower settlement: he was charged with presents for the chief of
+Kombi, a hostile village on the way; these naturally enough he took
+to his own ‘boss,’ and kept the stranger waiting three days for the
+return-message. Nor was this when it came particularly favourable.
+Every hour was precious,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_42">[42]</span> yet the traveller was told ‘Sit down for you’
+three more days till ‘palaver’ had ‘set,’ <em>i.e.</em> been
+decided, after which guides and bearers might perhaps be
+forthcoming. Affairs, however, appeared to be opening up; and as my
+presence was required in the Camaroons River, M. Mann agreed to
+break ground as soon as possible, to botanize on the way, and to
+await my arrival before attempting the Peak. I must, however, do
+him the justice to say that he set out without delay and did his
+best of bests to be Number One; he failed, however, and failed
+signally, as the sequel will show.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon was devoted to inspecting the islands, which were
+accurately described by Messrs. Allen and Thompson.<a id=
+"FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>
+Ndami, erroneously called Dameh, or Ambas, the outer or westernmost
+island, some two and a half miles distant from the northern
+mainland, possesses but one, and that a difficult, landing-place at
+the inner end. This rocky, tongue-shaped ridge, with a bold head of
+150 feet fronting the sea, which foams and rages outside, whilst
+the Cove, or inner harbour, lies smooth as a mill-pond, is clear of
+trees, but shows on the lower slopes a little garden-ground about
+the huts of the inhabitants. It<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_43">[43]</span> breeds goats and pigs in plenty; water,
+however, must be brought from the mainland when the people set out
+on fishing excursions. Separated from Ndami by a channel one mile
+and a half broad, stands its eastern neighbour Mondori, which
+Captain Allen calls Mondoleh, and others Mondoli,<a id=
+"FNanchor_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>
+a much more interesting place. About two miles distant from the
+northern shore, it is separated from the bold headland forming the
+eastern arm of the bay by a fair broad channel. The Victorians
+declare that it is accessible whilst the sauciest sea runs outside,
+and that, when the rest of the bay is a sheet of foam, vessels can
+ride snugly under the lee of its northern point; they assert that
+it has an excellent holding bottom of dark tough clay, and that it
+is superior in many points to the celebrated Clarence Cove,
+Fernando Po. The formation of the island, according to Mr.
+Roscher,<a id="FNanchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class=
+"fnanchor">[16]</a> is amygdaloid basalt in the lower parts, and in
+the upper a more solid stone with shiny cleavage, evidently the
+result of different epochs of cooling; on the western side, where
+the greatest heat was, the older deposits are destroyed. Mondori
+rises about 200 feet from the sea, with the profile of a
+lumpy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> dome; it is
+steep on all sides, except at the south-east, where the landing is.
+Magnificent trees, hung with llianas and festooned with orchids,
+crown the summit and creep down the flanks. After repeated
+attempts, we failed to scale the bluff northern side, foiled by the
+impenetrable bush; we heard, however, the voices of the people
+above us, and we were told that it contains a few households, who
+add to the gifts of their nets the produce of the richest soil
+formed by decomposed basalt. Their huts are hidden from the sea and
+the bay, and a spring, it is said, supplies them with excellent
+water. Like Ndami, Mondori is claimed by one Nako, a Bimbia chief,
+as an inheritance from his father, ‘old Nako:’ there would be no
+difficulty in purchasing it. The place would be useful as a
+storehouse and a preliminary sanitarium; and should Government
+determine to send out convict-hulks or a coal-ship for this
+station, there is no better mooring-place than under its lee. A
+hundred negro workmen, gardeners, and lumberers, would easily clear
+and prepare it during the six months of the dry season.</p>
+
+<p>The other islands alongshore are the Bubya, Bobbi, Abobbi, or
+Pirate Rocks, whose formation, like Point William at Fernando Po,
+reveals to us the original connection between the two mountains.
+Urged both by N.E. and S.W. winds, a violent sea must
+have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span> beaten upon the
+low neck of land which in past times attached the bases of the
+sister peaks. The land was gradually dismembered, leaving fragments
+of islands, which are still being sliced away by successive
+inroads. Gradually the water began to roll deeper between them; the
+channel, however, is still shallow, and there is a subaqueous ridge
+extending from N.E. to S.W.<a id="FNanchor_17"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> Presently the same surf,
+ever perforating and degrading, washed from Ndami the Bubya Rocks,
+and these in their turn, after being greatly curtailed in size, are
+nodding to their fall. The group numbers ten to fifteen, according
+to the state of the tide, which here rises eight<a id=
+"FNanchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>
+feet; the line, separated from the main by a sea-arm about one
+fathom deep, sets off the shore in a general north and south
+direction. The largest and the sole inhabited island is the second
+from the coast; it is a mass of ejected ashes, with volcanic dykes.
+There is but one landing-place; a sandy hole in a confusion of
+rocks, immediately below the highest ground. The only path is up
+the narrow edge of a basaltic vein, leading to a dwarf level, and
+here a natural bridge about three yards wide, with a sheer drop on
+either side, affords adit to the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_46">[46]</span> steepest acclivity, where the people fly when
+necessary. Though there is no ground for cultivation, and the
+grazing for beasts is scanty, the miserable huts swarm with
+children and dogs, pigs and goats. The people live mostly on fish,
+and when their rain-pools are exhausted they must seek supplies
+from the mainland.</p>
+
+<p>Upon all the islands of Ambas Bay there may be 300 souls, who,
+perfect African Bedouins, are on bad terms with one other, and
+generally at war with their continental neighbours. They have, with
+but a solitary exception, received Englishmen well, and we have
+requited their kindness by attaching to them the odium of piracy.
+The ‘Lords of the Isles’ are, as their language proves, allied with
+the Bakwiri, the principal tribe upon the opposite coast; thus
+probably Fernando Po was also peopled, but at a much earlier epoch,
+from the mainland, by a tribe doubtless long extinct. The Camaroons
+tribes named in the chart are the Batongo to the south-west, the
+Bakwileh (for Bakwiri) south of the mountain, and the Bamboko to
+the south-east; all terms, except one, unknown to the people.
+Proceeding from the east, we find the Dualla, by English called the
+Camaroons people, the Isubu or Bimbia—the latter a name given by
+the older travellers—the Bakwiri or Bojesmans, and the Rumbi. The
+latter is also a European word. I could not discover<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> what the tribe calls itself;
+possibly, like the Bube of Fernando Po, it has no (general) name.
+The people of Bubya are stout, independent fellows, with abrupt
+manners, the result of secluded and seafaring life; every visitor
+has remarked their robust and healthy aspect, which can be
+accounted for only by the superior salubrity of, and the freedom
+from malaria in, their island home.<a id="FNanchor_19"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p>
+
+<p>The history of European connection with this part of the coast
+is briefly told,—but first of foreign nomenclature. According to
+Mr. J. Grazilhier, who, as related by Barbot,<a id=
+"FNanchor_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>
+made a voyage to Old Calabar in <span class="sc2">A.D.</span> 1699,
+the land was called by the Portuguese Alta Tierra de Ambozes—the
+highlands of Ambozes. The latter word, not being Lusitanian, may
+probably be the name of some extinct tribe: here and elsewhere the
+maritime African races rapidly disappear. It has been corrupted to
+Amboizes, Amboize, and Ambas, which latter appears in the
+Hydrographic Chart. The<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_48">[48]</span> trivial English names of the mountains and
+the river to their east—Camaroons, further debased to Cameroons,
+and by the Jonesian writers to the yet more meaningless
+Kameruns—comes from the Portuguese Camaráõ, or the Spanish Camaron,
+a shrimp or prawn, of which there is a great variety from Lagos
+southwards.<a id="FNanchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class=
+"fnanchor">[21]</a> I have retained the name, although to call this
+stupendous pile and the broad estuary beyond it ‘Shrimp Mountains,’
+or ‘Prawn River,’ sounds somewhat absurd. Captain Allen, instructed
+by some Bimbia man, in his map gave to the highest peak the name of
+Mongo má Lobá, which means in Isubu ‘Mountain of Heaven,’
+<em>i.e.</em> the starry expanse. The natives acknowledge this
+word: they usually, however, call the whole upper region Mongo mo
+Ndemi, literally the Mountain of Greatness, which is also Dr.
+Krapf’s translation of the words Kilima-njáro, applied to the
+Ethiopic Olympus in Eastern Africa. But to the lower eminence—the
+smaller hump of the camel’s back, which was formerly called
+‘Camarones Pequeños,’ or ‘Little Camaroons,’ and ‘Gibraltar Rock,’
+and which the Baptist missionaries have lately baptized ‘Mount
+Trestrail,’—Captain Allen has assigned the name of Mongo ma
+Etindeh, the ‘Mountain of Separation,’ that is to say, ‘the
+separate mountain,’<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>
+which the natives do not recognize. I should prefer to call the
+highland region and bay Ambozes, the two peaks Larger and Lesser
+Mongo, and the settlement Victoria: it would only, however, confuse
+those who have learned Camaroons and Ambas to unlearn the
+terms.</p>
+
+<p>The adjoining country was formally discovered towards the close
+of the fifteenth century, by the noble Portuguese Fernaõ de Poo,
+who voyaged during the reign of D. Affonso V.; his name still
+survives in the Island of Fernando Po. About <span class=
+"sc2">A.D.</span> 1700 an active trade appears to have been carried
+on here and in the adjoining river. In the early part of the
+present century, to judge from Captain Adams, it seems to have
+fallen out of notice. In 1826 Captain W. F. Owen, R.N., the
+laborious surveyor of the two African coasts, explored the shore
+when homeward bound, and accurately laid down its geography. In
+1833 ‘Kokliko,’ <em>i.e.</em> Colonel, now General, Sir Edward
+Nicolls, R.M.,<a id="FNanchor_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22" class=
+"fnanchor">[22]</a> visited it in the ‘Quorra’ steamer, and the
+people of the islands, who had never been visited before except by
+kidnappers and buccaneers, fled. In 1837, Billeh, Chief of Bimbia,
+who also claimed Ambas Bay and its islands, conceded the best part
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> the country to
+Colonel Nicolls, on condition that he should be recognized as King
+William of Bimbia.<a id="FNanchor_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23"
+class="fnanchor">[23]</a> In 1842 the harbour was surveyed by
+Captain W. Allen and Commander Ellis, H.M.S. ‘Soudan.’ Two years
+afterwards, Lieut.-Commander Earle, H.M.’s brig ‘Rapid,’ made a
+treaty with King William and the Bimbian chiefs, abolishing slavery
+for a consideration of 1200 dollars in goods. In 1847, Mr. Merrick,
+a member of the Baptist Mission then settled at Bimbia and in the
+Camaroons River, made the first recorded trial to ascend the
+mountain:<a id="FNanchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class=
+"fnanchor">[24]</a> according to the people he succeeded in
+emerging from the forest country, but presently water failed him;
+his escort suffered from cold, hunger, and thirst, and he was
+compelled to return. He died two years afterwards of a confirmed
+teetotalism: in these lands the habitual water-drinker is even more
+shortlived than the habitual drunkard.<a id=
+"FNanchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>
+In 1848 King William and his chiefs<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_51">[51]</span> agreed with Mr. Beecroft to abolish the
+custom of human sacrifices at the funerals of great men; and in
+1850 they bound themselves by a more stringent commercial treaty,
+settling their ‘comey,’ and affixing penalties to those who injure
+or stop trade. In 1855 H.M.’s Acting-Consul, Fernando Po, visited
+Ambas Bay in H.M.S. ‘Antelope,’ Lieut.-Commander Young, to settle
+an old ‘bob’ which had lasted a score of years. The people of the
+‘Boobee Islands’ had defied King William and other Bimbian traders,
+they had openly seized his slaves, canoes, and goods, and they had
+refused to come on board the steamer. Fire was opened upon the
+wretched heap of huts; and when they were destroyed, the
+proprietors signed a paper ‘acknowledging King William of Bimbia
+rightful king and ruler of all the mainland and islands extending
+from Bimbia to Rumby;’ while the king and chiefs of Bimbia promised
+in their turn not to molest the ‘Boobees.’ In 1856 the late Mr. M.
+Laird strongly advocated in opposition to Fernando Po a British
+settlement at Ambas Bay, which had been greatly neglected on
+account of a supposed want of safe landing: he showed its
+superiority as a convict station to Ascension, and he also
+maintained, what had apparently been forgotten, viz., that a great
+part of the actual seaboard had been ceded to H.M.’s
+Government.<a id="FNanchor_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26" class=
+"fnanchor">[26]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>Victoria was first
+settled in 1858. In May of that year the Spanish Government,
+formerly so incurious touching its West African possessions,
+suddenly bethought itself of making Fernando Po not only a
+strategic position, but a source of wealth. Hoping by means of
+<em>emancipados</em> from Cuba to raise the Ilha Formosa to the
+rank of Madeira and Tenerife, Prince’s and San Thomé, they formally
+resumed possession after it had been virtually in English hands for
+nearly half a century. D. Carlos Chacon, Commander of H.C.
+Majesty’s squadron in the island and its dependencies, at once
+issued a proclamation forbidding any but Roman Catholic schools;
+and ordering ‘those who prefer any religion which is not the
+Catholic, to confine their worship within their own private houses
+or families, and limit it to the members thereof.’ This
+announcement fell like a shell amongst the black people of Clarence
+Town, alias Santa Isabel, who numbered some 800 souls, many of them
+creoles born in the colony. Having settled here in 1827, when
+Captain Owen was king, they considered themselves under British
+protection, and had since 1840 sat at the feet of Baptist
+ministers. On the 1st January, 1841, the ‘Golden Spring’ landed Mr.
+J. Clarke and Dr. G. K. Prince at Fernando Po. They returned home
+in the autumn of the next year; meanwhile, Mr. and Mrs. Sturgeon
+had arrived, and were followed in September,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_53">[53]</span> 1843, by Dr. and Mrs. Prince, Mr. and Mrs.
+Merrick, and Alexander Fuller. In December of the same year Mr.
+Clarke left Jamaica with a total of forty-one whites and negroes,
+amongst whom was Mr. Saker, the present head of the mission. In
+1844 the Baptists attempted to settle at the mouth of the Bimbia
+River: they found the land beautiful, but deadly; and in 1850 they
+left it for Camaroons River, which has proved but little better.
+They then preferred Fernando Po. The Baptist converts, seeing the
+danger that threatened their pastors, memorialized H.M. of Spain,
+but obtained no redress.<a id="FNanchor_27"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span>In August, 1858,
+Mr. Saker and his family left Fernando Po, where he had been
+allowed to reside only on sufferance, and emigrated to Ambas, which
+he called Victoria. He was accompanied and followed by sundry negro
+communicants, who have since, I believe, repented the step. Having
+obtained 1500<em>l.</em> damages—an exorbitant sum—from the Spanish
+Government, and apparently ignoring the antecedents of the country,
+he bought for 2000<em>l.</em>—in kind, however, and in local
+valuation, which greatly reduced the sum—the most valuable part of
+the location from King William of Bimbia, Dick Merchant of Dikolo,
+and Prince Nako of Dualla. The grant of ‘prime cuts’ was bounded
+southward by the sea; north, by a line of compass-bearings somewhat
+indefinite; eastward, by a stream of water flowing into Man-of-War
+Bay—an adjoining inlet; and westward, a point nearly<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> opposite Bubya Islands: a total
+coast length of twelve miles, which Mr. Consul Hutchinson makes
+eighty. It includes, as will be observed, Ambas Bay and Victoria
+Harbour. The first habitation, not to speak of the tents erected on
+landing, was a small iron-framed cottage, put up in September 1858,
+and still used by Mr. Saker and his family; it has wood, not metal,
+outside, and is habitable and tolerably healthy, no small contrast
+to the iron coffins, called Consular Residences, at Lagos and
+Fernando Po.</p>
+
+<p>Then began a dispute which has lasted to the present day, and
+which could easily have been settled in six months. The jealous
+Fernandians naturally hated and feared the settlement on the
+mainland. The Spaniards held aloof, but the English shopkeepers and
+others locally interested were loud in their abuse. They declared
+the natives dangerous, and the prospect of the settlers to be
+starvation. Unable to deny the salubrity of a place to which many
+of them had often repaired for health, they represented that it
+possesses no safe anchorage, and cannot be entered without imminent
+risk during the rains. Commodore Wise, of H.M.S. ‘Vesuvius,’ was
+directed to visit Ambas Bay in 1859. Unhappily he was accompanied
+by an official who, according to the missionaries, had desired, but
+had failed, to become a partner in the land speculation. Captain
+Wise, who remained there only a few<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_56">[56]</span> hours, is believed to have reported against
+the position; and Mr. Hutchinson (‘Ten Years’ Wanderings among the
+Ethiopians,’ chap. xviii.) gravely informed the public that ‘at one
+important part of the bay, described in the Rev. Mr. Saker’s chart
+as having four to six fathoms of water, it was found by Mr. Bowen,
+Master R.N., who had charge of the soundings, to have only from six
+to nine feet.’ The chart was copied from Captain Allen’s, and the
+statement caused considerable indignation; yet in 1862, Commodore
+Edmonstone, who had never even approached within sight of Ambas
+Bay, objected upon the mere theoretical grounds of its being a lee
+shore—as if all West Africa were not a ‘lee shore’—to its
+capabilities as a naval station.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, Mr. Saker, and those who were with him,
+contended that the native tribes were few, scattered, and not
+dangerous; that the country can be made highly productive, and
+support fine cattle, which the island cannot; that building
+material everywhere abounds; that the north-east tornadoes, which
+do so much damage at Fernando Po, are here warded off by the
+mountain background; that mosquitoes and mangrove swamps are
+unknown; that the sea-breeze is pure and healthy in the lower
+levels, and that by ascending the high lands any temperature can be
+obtained; that the islands are fit for lighthouses and coal depôts,
+and the level strand for sheds and slips;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_57">[57]</span> that the eastern sea-arm is open even to the
+largest ships at all seasons, and that, however rough may be the
+sea outside, it is ever smooth under the lee of Mondori; that the
+position lies in the very track of the mail steamers, which must
+now diverge to Fernando Po; that the tenure of land would not be
+arbitrary, as must ever be the case in a military station; that
+Victoria offers complete religious toleration, and, finally, that
+the Camaroons generally would be the key of the valuable Oil
+Rivers, whose export trade to England is calculated at not less
+than a million and a half of pounds sterling per annum.</p>
+
+<p>Virtually all this, and perhaps more, had been expressed by
+previous authorities. Captain Allen, R.N., after ample experience
+on the coast, found at Ambas Bay ‘palpable evidence of the
+superiority of the climate;’ where he enjoyed ‘a pure and prolonged
+sea-breeze or a cool land wind every night, ensuring a calm and
+refreshing sleep.’ He ends by declaring (vol. ii. chaps. viii. ix.)
+that ‘there are few places on the coast of Africa more suitable for
+a settlement’ than the lands at the base of Camaroons. Captain
+Close, R.N., does not hesitate to prefer Ambas Bay to Clarence
+Cove—a cruel dig—where the wind setting in prevents sailing vessels
+emerging from the gap without the aid of steam, and where at times
+the tornadoes are so violent that ships risk being
+stranded.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> Mr.
+Milbourne, master of the missionary schooner ‘Wanderer,’ has
+asserted that, ‘after giving a good deal of attention to this spot’
+(the anchoring-ground under Mondori Island) ‘during the different
+seasons of the year, he found the water always smooth;’ moreover he
+was never detained in the bay, even when the mouth of the Camaroons
+River was inaccessible to small craft.</p>
+
+<p>Here then we have Captains Allen and Close—of whom the former
+has repeatedly visited and surveyed the place—versus Commodores
+Wise and Edmonstone, who either saw it for a few hours, or who did
+not see it at all. A ‘plain man’ would hold that this decides the
+point <em>pro</em> against <em>con</em>. I confess, however, that,
+all things considered, it would be necessary to run in and out of
+it some dozen times during the worst seasons, between September and
+November, before one could be certain of its capabilities as a
+naval station. Its fitness for a convict or settler establishment I
+hold proven: even were the surf at times heavy, it would be no
+greater objection than the bar to Lagos or the rollers to
+Ascension. Of the superior salubrity of the climate there is also
+ample practical evidence. Mr. Saker has for four years used his
+house on the seaboard as a sanitarium, when prostrated by the
+malaria-poison of the Camaroons River; and when the young negresses
+at Fernando Po wish to ‘make nyángá,’ as<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_59">[59]</span> they call a peculiarly junketing picnic, they
+repair to Victoria.</p>
+
+<p>I now proceed to consider the geography of this interesting
+region. The Camaroons Mountain is strictly in the African terra
+incognita, whose limits are now 5° N. lat. to 5° S. lat., with a
+depth into the heart of the Continent,<a id=
+"FNanchor_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>
+rising about the centre of the Bight of Biafra in the Gulf of
+Guinea, where the western coast—after that long easterly sweep
+which, hollowed out by wind and water, caused geographers, until
+some five centuries ago, to shear off the vast triangle whose base
+is the Equator, and whose apex is the Cape of Good Hope—bends
+almost at right angles towards the Austral Pole. It is not an
+insulated pinnacle, an isolated feature, as some have supposed: its
+prolongation to the N.E. and S.W. (from 33° N.E. to 33° S.W.)
+cannot be estimated at less than 50°.<a id=
+"FNanchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>
+In the former direction it seems to be connected by the Rumbi and
+the Kwa Mountains<a id="FNanchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30"
+class="fnanchor">[30]</a> with that long Fumbina line<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> placed by Dr. Barth between the
+coast and Lake Chad.<a id="FNanchor_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31"
+class="fnanchor">[31]</a> Its position, with respect to the main
+ranges of Africa, has not been determined, and will require a
+special expedition. It may anastomoze with the meridional Sierra
+del Crystal, those West African ghauts which approach within a
+hundred miles of the Gaboon River’s mouth, and which from that
+point run parallel with the Ethiopic Ocean. On the other hand, it
+may connect with the latitudinal range known, for want of better
+name, as the ‘Kong Mountains,’ which, beginning N.E. of Sierra
+Leone, pass along the south of the Kwara (Quorra), and form Mount
+Patta to the west and the Bassa Hills to the east of the great
+stream, where, after collecting the waters of the Binue, it turns
+to the south. So far as is known, it does <em>not</em> run parallel
+with the main axis of the interior mountain chains, ‘as though the
+convulsions which have elevated the inactive mountain ranges
+corresponded in direction with those which have produced the
+fissures in the earth’s crust, along which we find the active
+instances of volcanic action.’</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>The south-westerly
+prolongation of the Camaroons Mountains is even more remarkable. If
+the edge of a parallel ruler be placed on a Mercator’s map, nearly
+in the usual direction of the wind, viz. from about 33° N.E. to 33°
+S.W., it will align, besides Mount Alantika and the mountains of
+Fumbina, the Kwa, the Camaroons, Fernando Po, Prince’s Island, San
+Thomé, Annobom, and St. Helena, with an offset of 90° to Ascension.
+This observation, made by Captains Owen and Midgley, shows the
+strike of the elevating volcanic action. It may also be remarked
+that, omitting the Fumbina and other ranges, concerning which
+little is known, that the centre of disturbance was upon the coast,
+as is proved by the diminution of the more distant altitudes. Thus
+in charts the apex of the Camaroons is 13,760 feet, Fernando Po
+10,190, Prince’s Island 3000, San Thomé 7500-8000, Annobom 2000,
+St. Helena (Diana’s Peak) 2693, and Ascension (Green Mountain)
+2870.</p>
+
+<p>In 1826 Captain Owen laid down the diameter of the true
+Camaroons buttress at nearly 20 miles from east to west, and the
+height at 13,000 feet. Captain Boteler, an officer under his
+command, gave more than 20 miles to the base, 13,250 feet to the
+greater, and 6000 feet to the lesser peak. The Hydrographic chart
+allows 13 geographical miles direct from Ambas<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_62">[62]</span> Bay to the summit, to which it assigns an
+altitude of 13,760 feet. We reduced the 13 to a little less than 10
+habitable miles, and the altitude to 13,130 feet. Allowing 6 miles
+for the more abrupt counterslope, and 10 miles of breadth from the
+eastern foot (not including the Bimbia Hills) to the summit, and a
+similar extent for the western side, which is rather understated,
+we obtain an area of 380 square miles—about one-third larger than
+Madeira and the Isle of Man. It is bounded on the north by the
+Rumbi Mountains, on the south by the Atlantic. The eastern limit is
+a creek flowing from N.E. to S.W. into the Bimbia River, or Camaraõ
+Pequeno, a stream probably discharged by the mountain;<a id=
+"FNanchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>
+and the western boundary is a branch of the Rio del Re, known to us
+as the Rumbi, and heading, it is believed, still further east than
+the Bimbia. Thus the Camaroons Mountain forms a parallelogram
+contained within 4° 20′<a id="FNanchor_33"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> and 3° 57′ of N. lat., and
+9° 1′ to 9° 25′ of E. long. We may roughly assume it to be within
+4° of the Equator.</p>
+
+<p>A sanitarium is sorely wanted for this portion of Africa. During
+the present year (1861) Lagos has become a British colony, with the
+usual amount of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> civil
+and military establishments. The only escape from the deadly
+malaria is to Tenerife or Ascension: the former distant, under the
+most favourable circumstances, three weeks; the latter ten days of
+steam by the aid of an accidental cruizer. On the other hand, the
+Camaroons are distant barely fifty-five hours. Its area is little
+less than the inhabited portion of the Neilgherry Hills in Western
+India. It has every range of climate—a tierra <em>caliente,
+temprada, fria</em>. The negro can flourish in the lower, the white
+man can sojourn in the upper part, where within 4° of the Line
+nightly frosts prevail throughout the year, and stores of ice and
+snow can be collected. The country is scantily inhabited, and only
+in parts, by a timid and feeble, though a wild and treacherous
+people. Land may be bought for a nominal sum; and the soil, as this
+narrative will show, is everywhere fitted for cultivation. With
+less than the Spaniards have expended upon Fernando Po, or than
+that which we have lavished on the splendid but useless Zambezi
+River, these mountains might in a few years be made a solid benefit
+to the coast of Western Intertropical Africa. I have seen the
+marvellous effects of removing naval invalids from their ships to a
+few hundred feet above sea-level at Fernando Po; here, by judicious
+management, even greater benefits might be expected. And for the
+future we must provide<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_64">[64]</span> against another and even a greater evil of
+climate: the vomito, or yellow fever, which, of late years confined
+to the lands about the Gambia and Sierra Leone, is, whilst I write,
+advancing with giant steps towards the Equator. Its extreme
+elevation is known to be 2500 feet.</p>
+
+<p>The age is agitating a movement in the right direction—one most
+important to a nation which, like Great Britain, requires
+expansion, and of which may be said, ‘<em>non progredi est
+regredi</em>.’ The mixed Anglo-Saxon race wants those cosmopolitan
+powers of acclimatization which scatter pure races, like the
+Chinese and Turanians, the Jews and the Gipsies, unscathed over the
+habitable world. The ‘people living between the Four Seas’ cannot,
+it is true, rear families in the tropics: the superior race may not
+descend into an inferior ethnic centre, though the reverse
+operation has many instances. Our melancholy task appears to be
+that of smoothing the way for a future and higher type of the
+initial genus and species—man. Emerson’s dictum may be extended to
+ourselves when he declares, ‘The German and Irish millions, like
+the negro, have a great deal of guano in their destiny. They are
+ferried over the Atlantic, and carted over America to ditch and to
+drudge, to make corn cheap, and then to lie down prematurely to
+make a spot of green grass on the prairie.’ We must
+abandon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> the Utopian
+idea that we are destined to people the earth.<a id=
+"FNanchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class=
+"fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+<p>But all the world over there are scattered isolated positions;
+hills rising like islands from the plains, mountain-masses, and
+rocky ridges, where Anglo-Saxon life and labour can—if incapable of
+propagation and perpetuation—at any rate be greatly prolonged.
+During the last half-century by deaths of British soldiers in
+India—not including casualties or the average loss of healthy
+stations—the nation, it is calculated by economists, has lost some
+ten millions of pounds sterling. Sir Ranald Martin, a strong
+advocate for the change, asserts that the third generation of
+unmixed Europeans is nowhere to be found in Bengal,<a id=
+"FNanchor_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>
+that the English soldier cannot be maintained in health and vigour
+upon the lowlands, and that the selection of suitable hill-stations
+has now become a state necessity. Health is strength, and strength
+is moral power, especially in<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_66">[66]</span> the East. Sir Charles Metcalfe removed the
+garrison from the seaboard to the hills of Jamaica, and since its
+establishment at Newcastle and Maroon Town the mortality—excluding
+cases of disease contracted in the plains—was reduced to about
+one-third. In the Himalayas, 6000 feet above sea-level, on an
+average of five years (1850-1854) the mortality is hardly more than
+3 per cent.—which is little higher than that of the civil
+population in France—against at least 10 per cent. in the low
+lands. At Poonah the English regiments have been healthier than
+those stationed in London barracks. When railroads shall have been
+established in India, no Minister will think of exhausting the
+soldier’s health and energies by confining him to the febrile zone;
+but keep him fresh and vigorous to throw upon the enemy wherever
+and whenever required. And our sons will marvel at the folly of
+their sires, who for the flimsiest of reasons, for a mere <em>vis
+inertiæ</em>—insist upon destroying Governors-General by binding
+them to the deadly Lower Bengal.</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th December I set out in H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound’ to visit
+the Camaroons River, where the traders were calling lustily, as is
+their wont, upon Hercules. It is one of the ‘trust rivers,’ meaning
+thoroughly untrustworthy: the white seller, expecting a return of
+100 to 150 per cent., gives on credit goods which the black
+purchaser takes, firmly resolving to delay payment<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> as long as possible, and, if he
+can, not to pay at all. The Camaroons has at least three head-men,
+called ‘kings’ in the African sense of the word—monarchs much like
+all the kings, thirty and one, whom Joshua bin Nun smote with the
+edge of the sword—two hulks, three or four ships, and perhaps a
+dozen European agents, who, to collect some poor 1700 puncheons of
+palm-oil and to settle their endless grievances, require the
+presence of at least one ambassador and one commodore. The natives
+are not without unpleasant practices and habits. If a chief, for
+instance, ‘boys’ another, the ‘boy’ at once sets out in his
+war-canoe to show ‘he be man,’ slaughters some unoffending wretch
+belonging to the insulter’s tribe—an African succedaneum for the
+duello’s: the victim’s clansmen retaliate upon the ‘man’s,’ and so
+on <em>ad infinitum</em>. Like all Africans, having no confidence
+in, and expecting nothing like justice from, one another, they
+flock to the nearest European official, and beg him to act as
+arbitrator. If he consents, a regular ‘palaver’ must ‘come up,’ and
+words cannot express its weariness, its damnable iteration. Each
+speaker not only ventilates his eloquence even unto nausea, he also
+begins as near the days of Adam as he can, lest aught be wanting to
+proper comprehension; and for fear of the strong points being
+forgotten, he dins them a dozen times into the hearer’s<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> ears. I persuaded, not without a
+little gentle violence, Bonny Bell, Priso Bell, and King Kwa or
+Acqua, the three kings—individuals clad in a total of red-yellow
+bandanas and tall black or sky-blue tiles—to abolish, under pain of
+removal from the river, such ‘facinorous practices,’ and, convinced
+that they would return to them at the first opportunity, I bade
+temporary adieu to the haunt of fever and iniquity, mentally
+exclaiming</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Heu terra felici haud adeunda viro!</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">An advantage, however, had been secured by this
+visit to the Camaroons. Mr. Saker, long anxious to explore ‘the
+mountain,’ volunteered to accompany us, and his intimate knowledge
+of the Dualla dialect, and his long experience in the Bimbia
+country side, rendered him a valuable acquisition.</p>
+
+<p>Of the ‘Bloodhound’ 13 out of 55 whites, besides the commander
+and the chief engineer, were prostrated by fever—such is too often
+the effect of a ‘Tour round the Rivers;’ and the medical officer
+protested against an intended visit to Old Calabar, the Kom Toro,
+and the Rio del Re, the last two of which I was anxious to open.
+The night of the 13th December saw us off the coal-shed Fernando
+Po, and four days sufficed to collect the outfit necessary for a
+month in the jungle.<a id="FNanchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36"
+class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>The usual croaking
+followed the announcement of an intention to explore the mountain.
+The four or five fierce wild tribes holding the lower regions were
+represented as being able to turn out 5000 muskets—perhaps they may
+have 50. The forest swarmed with ‘tigers,’ hyænas, and other
+bugbears, the fevers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>
+were mortal in the lower regions, the cold would be intense, snow
+having just been seen in the upper heights,<a id=
+"FNanchor_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>
+and the Krumen—the only servants in these regions—would certainly
+die or desert, perhaps do both.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot, however, but plead guilty to a modified fatalism.
+Purely retrospective, it has many advantages. ‘We could not have
+helped it,’ obviates all regret for the past however regretful, and
+bygones become doubly bygones; whilst the present so soon becoming
+the past is hardly more valuable, and the future, which must
+inevitably merge with present and past, is even less
+important:—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Il passato non è, ma se lo finge,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent6">La viva rimembranza;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Il futuro non è, ma se lo pinge,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent6">La credula speranza;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Il presento non è, ma in un baleno,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent6">Passa del nube in seno;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Dunque la vita è appunto,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Una memoria, una speranza, un
+punto.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Prospective fatalism in practice appears absurd.
+When the Turk sits in an embrasure under a volley of
+musketry,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> and refuses
+to move—by-the-by, I emphatically never saw this often-heard-of
+incident—because Allah knows when he is to die, it ought to strike
+that benighted personage that Allah may also know he is to escape
+death by a little more activity. Fatalism, however, like all
+modifications of faith, is mainly the effect of climate. In the
+cold, bustling, and energetic north, amongst the elbowing
+Anglo-Saxons, where,—contrary to what the Italian says,—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Life is real, life is earnest,</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">fatalism is at best a sickly exotic. As you
+approach the Mediterranean it grows into a kind of creed: every one
+has known Southrons,—Italians and Spaniards,—who, fatalists by
+nature, yet broken by habit to the orthodox theological Catholic
+doctrine of Freewill, have subsided into a mixture of both, which
+they cannot define nor explain to themselves nor to others.</p>
+
+<p>But although I had heard the cry of wolf too often to give it
+ready ear, solid difficulties presented themselves. A fortnight’s
+march up a pathless, densely wooded, and possibly waterless
+mountain, with bad tribes in rear and a desert in front, where all
+supplies must be carried by Krumen—poltroons who at the appearance
+of a fancied danger fling themselves into the bush, mutinous dogs
+whose one invariable tactic under difficulties is to make progress
+so hard and so dangerous,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_72">[72]</span> by bumping the master’s hammock against stub
+and stone, by inducing sore feet, or by diminishing the provisions,
+that the march must perforce be given up in disgust—may appear at
+home as feasible as a run through the Himalayas or the Andes: it
+wears, however, quite another aspect at Clarence Town.</p>
+
+<p>During my brief delay on the island another volunteer presented
+himself for the exploration, which assumed the air of a little
+international expedition. M. Atilano Calvo Iturburu, assessor or
+assistant judge, was as weary as myself of ‘palavers’ and Fernando
+Po: he obtained a month’s leave of absence, and zealously prepared
+to outfit himself. The reader must not confound him with certain
+venerable beings in wigs and gowns, owning to that style and title
+in England, but rather think of him as a fast young pig-sticking
+Anglo-Indian magistrate. Although we had looked into the craters on
+the summit of Ilha Formosa, I almost feared—not knowing him to be a
+Vascongado on the mother’s side—lest, after many fevers, he might
+break down upon the frozen heights of the Camaroons, and explained
+to him the conditions of exploration, namely go ahead at all risks,
+even if one or more be left behind, and to send on the stores, ‘the
+tools to him who can handle them.’ He responded cheerfully, and, so
+far from ‘caving in,’ he devanced me on one occasion, and when the
+party was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> laid up he
+preserved his health. I found him throughout an amiable and not
+unphilosophic man, whose society round the camp-fire added greatly
+to the pleasures of an evening in the wild.</p>
+
+<p>Betimes on Wednesday the 18th December, Judge Calvo and myself
+found ourselves off Ambas Bay in H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound,’ Lieut. Stokes
+commanding. As Morning, habited in her well-known russet mantle,
+walked over the beautiful Camaroons, we could distinguish the
+features of the scenery, which, viewed from the south-eastern
+entrance, are even more enchanting than when seen from the western
+approach. The immense height of the wooded curtain behind dwarfed
+the several islands that sentinel the bay to mere patches of a
+darker hue; presently they stood out with a beautiful distinctness,
+and relieved the sea of any appearance of monotony. Already the
+hand of Autumn—I should rather say the dry season—had besprinkled
+the many-hued foliage with red and yellow, whilst others, beautiful
+in their new coats, were decked with large masses of flowers, some
+white, others resembling the peony. Rising from the ruddy cliffs
+that wall in the harbour, the land sloped upwards to 5000 feet
+within about three miles; thin curls of blue smoke rose here and
+there, evidencing settlements, and the little canoes of the
+fishermen flitted over the milky blue waters. We steamed through
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> eastern channel,
+a clear entrance 880 yards wide with 5 to 6 fathoms of water, under
+Mananga Point, the high terminal bluff separating Ambas from
+Man-of-War’s Bay, and defending Victoria Harbour from the violence
+of the south-western winds.</p>
+
+<p>Landing at the Missionary establishment, we found Mr. Saker up
+and ready: M. Mann had set out in advance, and we agreed to follow
+him next morning. On the same evening the ‘Bloodhound’ left us for
+Lagos, where she was to convey her ex-commander Lieutenant Dolben,
+and whence she was to proceed under Lieutenant Stokes to the
+much-desired South-Coast station. With regret I saw her leave. The
+Russian saying touching houses may be applied to ships in these
+regions: ‘Build the soundest imaginable, and the cockroaches will
+be in them before the owners.’ She was certainly very ‘roachy.’ But
+her comfortable dimensions made her a great contrast to the fast
+and narrow ‘screws’ which are now fashionable upon the West African
+Coast; she had been my home for well-nigh a month; and to one whose
+usual tenement is his hat, a good lodging and pleasant society are
+not to be lost sight of <em>sans serrement de cœur</em>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc01">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
+"label">[5]</span></a>Smaller volcanoes like Vesuvius ‘change
+almost imperceptibly from the steepest incline at which the
+outermost ashes and rocks will hang together, to a curve which
+ultimately sweeps away into a horizontal direction.’ But in those
+the cone bears a far greater proportion to the whole than in such
+features as the Camaroons and Fernando Po, consequently the angle
+of the culminating line appears excessive.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class=
+"label">[6]</span></a>Fernando Po Peak was ascended as early as
+1843.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class=
+"label">[7]</span></a>As far as volcanic action is known, the
+different crater-vents communicate by ducts with the same central
+cause—very distinct from all idea of parasitism.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class=
+"label">[8]</span></a>‘The river Camaroon with the Ambas Islands,’
+by Capt. W. Allen, H.M.S. ‘Wilberforce,’ 1842, with additions by
+Mr. V. F. Johnson, H.M.S. ‘Philomel.’ The soundings and positions
+of the Hydrographical Chart are of course tolerably correct; the
+names of tribes and places are all more or less wrong.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class=
+"label">[9]</span></a>The Spanish colony that landed at Fernando Po
+in 1858 attributed the greater part of its losses to the inhumanity
+of the black people, who made a combination not to lodge them, and
+agreed to ‘cut their chop’—<em>anglicè</em>, to starve them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class=
+"label">[10]</span></a>Writing from Fernando Po, May 31st, 1860, to
+Sir Wm. Hooker, M. Mann says:—‘I heard that you had inquired if it
+were possible to ascend the mountain of Bimbia or Camaroon. You
+will hear shortly that it is quite impossible, and only killing men
+to send them up there; this, however, was also told me before I
+went up Clarence Peak. It is, no doubt, <em>very</em> difficult,
+but it is possible; only too much must not be expected from the
+first trip.’ (From the ‘Journal of the Proceedings of the Linnæan
+Society,’ vol. vi.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11"><span class=
+"label">[11]</span></a>‘A knowledge of the temperate flora of any
+spot on the West Coast of tropical Africa has long been one of the
+greatest desiderata in botanical geography, not only on account of
+the intrinsic interest that must attach to the plants of the
+extremely few isolated points so elevated as to possess a temperate
+climate in that vast humid and torrid area, but also from the light
+such lights might be exacted to throw on the floras of St. Helena,
+the Cape de Verd, and the Canaries, all of which (and especially
+the former) contain peculiar endemic genera, whose nearest allies
+might be expected to exist in the mountains of the neighbouring
+continent.’—‘Journal of the Proceedings of the Linnæan Society,’
+vol. vi.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span class=
+"label">[12]</span></a>Loc. sup. cit.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span class=
+"label">[13]</span></a>Meaning a man of the Bakwiri tribe or
+bushmen, from kwiri, a bush. The word is Isubu. This small
+<em>échantillon</em> will suffice to show that the dialects of East
+and West Africa are as closely connected as their flora. Here also
+there is a slight European importation; I particularly remarked
+‘bwámo,’—good!—and suspected the Spanish bueno.</p>
+
+<p>Despite the dicta of Dr. Beke (‘On the Mountains forming the
+Eastern Side of the Basin of the Nile’—a paper full of good and
+borrowed but unacknowledged information), who on this point follows
+Mr. E. Norris’s edition of ‘Prichard’s History of Man,’ I still
+deem it advisable to retain these ‘terse and concise African
+prefixes,’ which, if abandoned, would necessitate a weary
+redundancy of words. They can hardly, as Mr. Norris says, ‘occasion
+puzzlement to the readers of African intelligence,’ unless
+intelligence be sadly wanting in the readers. Mr. Norris and Dr.
+Beke omit the Kafir prefix ‘when it has not become part and parcel
+of the English appellation,’ deeming it ‘not only awkward, but
+positively incorrect.’ With due modesty I venture to opine that
+they have substituted for a fancied awkwardness a real blunder. To
+call ‘Unyamwezi’ and ‘Usumbara’ ‘Nyamwezi’ and ‘Sumbara,’ is about
+as correct as to term ‘Britain’ and ‘Britons’ ‘Brit’ or
+‘Brits.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14"><span class=
+"label">[14]</span></a>‘Narrative of the Niger Expedition in 1841,’
+by Capt. W. Allen, R.N., and T. R. N. Thompson, Esq., M.D., London,
+Bentley, 1848. It was written some time after the return of the
+authors from that disastrous attempt, and is a valuable work.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15"><span class=
+"label">[15]</span></a>The Bakwiri, who are erroneously called
+Bakwileh in the chart, use R for L, opposed to the tribes about
+Batanga, who use L for R; here, moreover, there are neither
+sibilants nor aspirates. Their speech, like the Kisawahili, abounds
+in K, a letter avoided in the Dualla or Camaroons dialect.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16"><span class=
+"label">[16]</span></a>MS. Geological Journal, Niger
+Expedition.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17"><span class=
+"label">[17]</span></a>Captain Allen (vol. ii. chap. vii.)
+distinctly asserts that this submarine ridge exists; on the other
+hand, there are shipmasters at Fernando Po who declare that the
+water rapidly deepens from the shore to 80 fathoms.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18"><span class=
+"label">[18]</span></a>Others say nine: the chart gives six feet of
+rise at full and change.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19"><span class=
+"label">[19]</span></a>‘In the latter half of the day I was much
+refreshed by the constant sea-breeze, which in Fernando Po we
+seldom enjoy, and which renders Victoria such a pleasant and
+agreeable residence for Europeans.’—M. Mann, ‘Journal of the
+Proceedings of the Linnæan Society of London,’ Botany, vol.
+vii.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20"><span class=
+"label">[20]</span></a>From this old author I extract (<a href=
+"#app1">Appendix I.</a>) an accurate and truthful description of
+the region, which is not noticed by his contemporary Bosman, who
+yet alludes to the De El Rei and the Camaroons rivers. The reader
+will not fail to remark how greatly the islanders have changed
+since those days.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21"><span class=
+"label">[21]</span></a>‘Camaroon’ in the Mauritius means
+crawfish.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22"><span class=
+"label">[22]</span></a>This gallant officer succeeded in 1830 to
+the government of the settlement formed at Fernando Po by Capt.
+Owen in 1827; he also has left his mark in Nicolls Island at the
+mouth of the Bimbia river.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23"><span class=
+"label">[23]</span></a>This assertion rests upon the direct
+authority of Capt. Allen (vol. ii. chap. vii.).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24"><span class=
+"label">[24]</span></a>In <a href="#app2">Appendix II.</a> I have
+republished Mr. Merrick’s narrative from the Baptist Magazine of
+1845.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25"><span class=
+"label">[25]</span></a>The faculty begins quietly and gingerly to
+confess this belief. ‘The evidence that intemperance in drinking
+exerts a particular influence in the production of hepatitis is by
+no means conclusive;’ and ‘the occurrence of hepatitis, on the
+other hand, in its severest form, is not an unusual event in
+persons of temperate habits—a statement which practitioners in
+India generally will, I am sure, amply confirm,’ says Dr. Morehead
+(‘Diseases of India’). He might have instanced the case of M.
+Jacquemont, who, deriding the English consumption of beef and beer,
+scientifically Hinduized himself with rice and water, and died at
+the end of the year of an invincible dysentery.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26"><span class=
+"label">[26]</span></a>I have reprinted Mr. Laird’s letter in
+<a href="#app5">Appendix V.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27"><span class=
+"label">[27]</span></a>It must, however, be owned that, beyond the
+expulsion order, the Spanish authorities have shown great
+toleration; in fact, if their rule has a fault, it is over lenity.
+A French commandant would certainly have billeted his men upon the
+negro townspeople when they refused to let lodgings and they ‘cut
+chop.’ The negro Baptists tried hard to enjoy a little persecution:
+during their private prayer meetings, or when ‘sitting under’ an
+occasional missionary from the mainland—churches are not
+permitted—they pretended great fear, closing doors and shutters
+whenever they inflicted injury upon the sweet songs of Zion. The
+Spanish wisely ignored all these little fooleries. The people are
+of some 30 to 40 nations, originally from Sierra Leone, with a few
+<em>emancipados</em> from the Oil Rivers. They are justly described
+by Capt. Allen as ‘a lazy population of liberated Africans,’ who
+neglect the advantages of one of the richest soils in the world.
+They are now perfectly contented; many boast of being Spaniards,
+and they will probably all come over to the old Church, where,
+however, they will be no acquisition. There is probably not a soul
+amongst them that can distinguish a Protestant from a Catholic
+sermon. The a’mighty dollar is slowly but surely working its way.
+The salaries being defrayed by Cuba are liberal at Fernando Po, and
+considerable sums are spent in the island. The governor, who
+reports directly home to the President of Council (Minister of War
+and of Colonies), besides pay and allowances of 8000 dollars per
+annum, may dispose yearly of 25,000 dollars for local improvements.
+If we had sanctioned even this much in the Gold Coast and other
+outlying provinces, they would not now be in ruins. One million of
+reals was assigned for the immigration of colonists during the
+first year, and the Jesuit Mission has been allowed 6000 dollars
+per annum. Whilst the British consulship is worth 500<em>l.</em>,
+the Spanish Secretary to the Civil Judge receives 3000 dollars, and
+the interpreter 2000 dollars. Besides which there is the
+expenditure of the naval and military establishments; two hulks,
+one steam gun-vessel, and a picked company of 150 infantry, each
+paid 10 dollars per mens., with two captains and a similar number
+of lieutenants, sub-lieutenants, and surgeons.</p>
+
+<p>Prices of course became exorbitant; three shillings were paid
+for a lean chicken smaller than an English pigeon; the negroes,
+however, made merry and lived in a congenial idleness, which has
+more than compensated for the loss of their ‘morning (and evening)
+privilege.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28"><span class=
+"label">[28]</span></a>A glance at Mr. Keith Johnstone’s latest map
+of Africa will show that the only purely white paper is bounded by
+the limits above assigned.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29"><span class=
+"label">[29]</span></a>As a rule, the lines of volcanic disturbance
+run in a diagonal to the direction of the earth’s
+rotation—suggesting some tidal action in the gas or fluid
+underlying the earth’s crust—from N.W. to S.E. along the western
+side of the great terrestrial areas of Europe, Asia, and America;
+they may be traced again along the eastern side almost as
+continuously, trending in transverse lines from S.W. to N.E., as
+from Mexico to Greenland, and from Sumatra to Behring’s Straits;
+hence a general parallelism of coast, inland mountain, and axis of
+volcanic action is inferred.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30"><span class=
+"label">[30]</span></a>Capt. Owen saw the Rumbi Mountains from a
+distance of 60 miles, and made them 44 miles N.E. of Camaroons
+Peak. The Kwa (Qua) Mountains, which are visible from the Cross or
+Old Calabar River, are placed both by Captains Owen and Boteler
+(chap. xiv. vol. ii. ‘Narrative of a Journey of Discovery,’
+Bentley, 1835) 64 miles N., 16° 15′ W. of the Camaroons, and were
+seen from nearly 80 miles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31"><span class=
+"label">[31]</span></a>In this range is Mount Alantika, to which
+the Hamburg traveller assigns an altitude of eight to ten thousand
+feet.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32"><span class=
+"label">[32]</span></a>Mr. Beecroft ascended the Bimbia, but I am
+unable to find an account of his trip.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33"><span class=
+"label">[33]</span></a>The northern limit is at present
+doubtful.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34"><span class=
+"label">[34]</span></a>The reader will consult upon this subject
+the able paper on Ethno-Climatology, or the Acclimatization of Man,
+by Dr. Jas. Hunt (‘Trans. Ethnological Soc.,’ vol. ii., New
+Series). I differ with the author only in suspecting that he has
+attached too much importance to the danger of dysentery,
+hill-diarrhœa, and other bowel complaints in the altitudes above
+the malarious tropical regions. Altitude must not be our sole guide
+in sanitaria and hill stations; they can be judged only by actual
+experience, and a height which here is healthy is there found to be
+distinctly the reverse.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35"><span class=
+"label">[35]</span></a>Somewhat similar was the opinion of the late
+Duke of Wellington, not to mention a cloud of competent observers
+and writers. Mr. Crawfurd (‘Trans. Ethnological Soc.,’ vol. i., New
+Series, p. 89) considers this ‘an hypothesis unsupported by facts,’
+although every fact tends to prove it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36"><span class=
+"label">[36]</span></a>I had determined upon that period by an
+inspection of the chart. From Ambas Bay the direct distance is 13
+miles, which must be multiplied by two for détours, and in such
+places an average of a mile per diem is fair progress. The
+following is a list of necessaries for a party of seven men:—</p>
+
+<table class="padded05 bd-collapse" id="t069">
+<tr>
+<th>
+</th>
+<th>
+</th>
+<th class="tdr">£</th>
+<th class="tdr"><em>s.</em>
+</th>
+<th class="tdr"><em>d.</em>
+</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">7</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">blue shirts</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">5</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">7</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">serge trousers</td>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">7</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">pr. boots</td>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">12</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">red woollen caps</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">dozen matchets</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">hatchets</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">(water) breakers</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">452</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">lbs. rice</td>
+<td class="tdr">7</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">200</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">lbs. pork</td>
+<td class="tdr">7</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">14½</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">gallons rum</td>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">5</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">pieces blue baft</td>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td class="tdr">5</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="pad-right2">ditto satin stripe</td>
+<td class="tdr">0</td>
+<td class="tdr">17</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bt">£33</td>
+<td class="tdr bt">8</td>
+<td class="tdr bt">10</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="nind">For private stores the best guide is any Alpine
+book, and even ‘Zouave leggings’ are not to be despised. Explorers
+in these regions must not forget that they are their own doctors,
+nor neglect caustic and diachylum; the reader will presently see
+how dear this little experience cost me.</p>
+
+<p>All the belongings should be carefully watched. Krumen will
+steal anything and everything they can. If the water-breakers be
+provided with lock and key they will, unless stopped by the stick,
+try the trick of breaking them, and all cutlery will rapidly
+disappear, knives being most useful as offerings of gallantry to
+the native belles.</p>
+
+<p>The prime difficulty here, as in other parts of Africa, is the
+<em>chaussure</em>. It is almost impossible to keep boots in order.
+The natural precautions are to procure the best and strongest
+articles that London makes—especially avoiding elastics—to use a
+little neats-foot oil instead of any vegetable unguents, and to
+keep them out of the reach of air and damp as much as possible.
+Even then two or three new pair will yield to the lava and other
+influences within the month.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37"><span class=
+"label">[37]</span></a>The usual snowy season is the tornado
+period, in our spring and autumn, with occasional falls during the
+rains. From May to July, and from September to October, the
+appearance is common, at other times rare. Yet in February, 1860,
+Messrs. Saker and Mann, after a heavy storm, saw from Victoria the
+topmost cone sheeted with white; on the next day a few stripes
+remained, and on the 3rd all had disappeared. On the 14th February,
+1862, Capt. Perry, H.M.S. ‘Griffon,’ and all on board, when
+steaming up Camaroons River, saw the whole main peak covered with
+snow.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span><a id=
+"c02"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">WE ENCAMP AT ‘MANN’S SPRING.’</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Precisely</span> at 6 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> on the next day we arose, despite the ravages of
+mosquitos and sand-flies—pernicious little wretches, midge-sized,
+but capable of raising lumps as large as billiard-balls upon man’s
+exposed epidermis—bade adieu to Mrs. and Miss Saker, and fifty
+minutes afterwards found ourselves <em>en route</em>, with a
+hurrah. The party consisted of four heads and eighteen tails. Mr.
+Saker was attended by two men, who carried his bedding,
+water-breaker, and a locked box of necessaries, such as rice, tea,
+cocoa, sugar, boiled ham, salt pork, sweet cake, soft bread, salt,
+chilis, and a pocket-pistol of cognac, which <em>we</em> emptied,
+and the veteran voyager never took his eye off the commissariat. He
+was temporarily accompanied by Mr. Johnson, a native of the Susu
+country, near Sierra Leone, above thirty years a resident in these
+parts: he had begun life as factotum to Mr. Beecroft,
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> had settled down
+in his old age as a teacher in the Camaroons Mission. By his
+inducement, ‘Money,’ alias Muni, a Dimbia runaway from King
+William, who had previously deserted M. Mann, on pretext of his
+mother’s illness, but who in reality feared capture for debt by the
+villagers, accompanied us as guide.</p>
+
+<p>Judge Calvo travelled with four Krumen, all hopeless convicts
+from the <em>cuartel</em> of Fernando Po, and his body servant, a
+youth named Eyo, who had succeeded in escaping the customs which
+followed the death of his patron, young Eyo Honesty, King of New
+Calabar. My party consisted of six men, under Black Will, a
+consummate ruffian,—these, brought to a sense of their duty, often
+make the best travellers. Despite, however, a sound preliminary
+dressing on board the ‘Bloodhound,’ and the vigorous applications
+of my excellent steward, Selim Aga, Black Will soon managed to
+sprain his ankle, and to return to Victoria. The tail was completed
+by four Krumen, who had been sent down from the mountains by M.
+Mann, to convoy a fresh supply of provisions. Not having ‘beef’
+enough, we carried with us arms, surveying instruments, bedding,
+and rations for a week, leaving the remainder at Victoria till we
+could find hands.</p>
+
+<p>The young sun glinting through that ‘cathedral of immensities,’
+the bush—Americans call our rivers creeks, and such is the
+magnificent Anglo-African<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_77">[77]</span> term for a forest of trees some 100 to 150
+feet high—saw us threading the little clearing behind the
+settlement. In this lower part, under the outlying hills, the
+vegetation consists of palms—the cocoa, confined to the immediate
+seaboard,<a id="FNanchor_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38" class=
+"fnanchor">[38]</a> the <i>Raphia vinifera</i>, called, from its
+uses, the bamboo and the wine palm,<a id="FNanchor_39"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> the <i>Elæis
+Guineensis</i>, or oil palm—and a variety of other trees, known
+only by scientific names to Europe. A forest at home is often
+composed of one genus, some of two or three, oak, elm, and beech;
+in the tropics they must be numbered by dozens. The monarch of all
+trees is the mighty <i>Bombax</i>. Of little inferior size are the
+scrubby oak of Sierra Leone (<i>Lophira alata Banksii</i>, the
+light-red wings of whose fruit ‘the lady-natives wear in their hair
+and ears’<a id="FNanchor_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40" class=
+"fnanchor">[40]</a>), the African ‘oak’ (<i>Oldfieldia
+Africana</i>, also called teak and mahogany, but neither this,
+that, nor the other), the sulphur-tree (<i>Morinda lucida
+Benthami</i>), also called<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_78">[78]</span> brimstone-tree,—the latter three affording
+superior timber for house and ship-building. Of inferior size are
+the African cork (<i>Musanga Smithii</i>), the Kolu tree
+(<i>Sterculia acuminata</i>), and a variety of acacias and fici.
+The moss-streamers, so common in the Southern States of the late
+Union, and which gave a name to ‘Barbadoes,’ here appear upon the
+extremities only: at 7000 feet they will clothe the trees from boll
+to branch, and, by killing the smaller branches, render the forest
+somewhat unsafe during tornadoes. Where clearings have been made
+the Cardamom (an unknown Amomum—Danielli?), and large grasses,
+principally the broad-leaved panicum and the narrow
+saccharum,—which do not, however, cut like the sugar-cane,—extend
+from the shore to 4000 feet above sea-level, where smaller species
+take their place.</p>
+
+<p>However beautiful the forest may be, it is ever a melancholy
+sight in these lands, this riotous nature, against which man’s
+force has hitherto been unable to prevail. One’s principal thought
+is how best to fell it, and as there is little underwood the land
+cannot be difficult to clear. The natives usually hew down the
+trees about November, after the rains, lop off the branches, which
+are fired for manure at the end of the dry season, or about the
+last of February, leave the trunks to decay, and plant their
+crops,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> yams and koko
+(<i>C. esculenta</i>), ground-nuts and cassava, maize and batatas,
+before the wet season begins.<a id="FNanchor_41"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a></p>
+
+<p>In these lower lands it would be necessary to corduroy a road.
+During the rains the traveller must slip from the stones to sink
+waist-deep in mire, and often when crossing over the mud his feet
+must hook in the tree-roots. The whole of this land, extending from
+the shore to 1500 feet above sea-level, is a rich yellow loam,
+admirably fitted for sugar-cane, tobacco, and cacao. The latter is
+far better for these idle races than coffee, which requires slave
+labour.<a id="FNanchor_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42" class=
+"fnanchor">[42]</a> The seed should be procured, unboiled,<a id=
+"FNanchor_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>
+from Prince’s Island or San Thomé, set in prepared patches, and
+weeded round when young. After twelve months it keeps its own
+ground clear, and bears fruit after the third year. The only labour
+is that of gathering the produce, breaking the husk, removing the
+seed, sun-drying for two or three days, and carrying to market: the
+sole objection to ‘theobroma’ is that it will not keep.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> The plaintain, which grows
+luxuriantly, might be made a source of wealth.<a id=
+"FNanchor_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44" class=
+"fnanchor">[44]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>After a thirty
+minutes’ walk we found the tall grasses beginning. A little further
+we passed the path leading through the Batongo to the Bimbia
+country, here distant about ten miles, and from that point twenty
+miles of creek passage places the traveller<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_82">[82]</span> in the Camaroons River. Beyond it the line
+became steeper, and we saw, through a thin screen of trees, the
+conical head of Mount Henry rising high to eastward of us. We twice
+forded the black bed of a pure and purling little stream, which
+seemed admirably adapted for water power. It varied in breadth from
+twenty-five to eighty feet, and in depth from two feet to six
+inches, and the dark stones both in the stream and on the banks
+were covered with the snowy flowers of a small aroid. The general
+course was to the S.S.W., and it was either the main stream, or a
+feeder of the rivulet which flows into the sea close to Victoria.
+The dense wet scrub now completely excluded the sun, and beyond the
+second fording began a steep and rocky ascent of degraded
+basalt.</p>
+
+<p>Here we met villagers seemingly on their way to market. The
+dress of the many was a cotton <em>pagne</em> or wrapper; the
+poorer were clad in the simple attire of the Fernandian Bube,<a id=
+"FNanchor_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a>
+and of the Eastern Wagogo. A grass string was fastened round the
+waist, and a strip of cloth was made to act as T-bandage, an
+isosceles triangle, sometimes tight, and two inches broad at the
+base, at other times with ends depending in front. The original
+costume was, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>
+believe, a kilt of plaintain-leaves. The stuffs were the common
+English cloths of barter, satin stripe, blue baft, turkey-red
+cheques, and a few silk bandanas. The ornaments were the small red
+and yellow, blue and white porcelain beads general in the Camaroons
+River; the incisors of the porcupine tied by a thread round the
+neck, and a multitude of ‘Lobo’-armlets<a id=
+"FNanchor_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a>
+of brass, copper, and iron, especially the ‘manilla,’ a form now
+well-nigh obsolete. The head was mostly bare, and the shaving, as
+usual, highly fanciful. A few had calottes of blackened
+bamboo-splints inside and goatskin outside, and one young person
+wore a cap of some animal’s intestines. They walked with
+alpenstocks, between five and six feet long, in shape not unlike
+the Galician fungueiro. The extreme slipperiness of the clayey soil
+after rain—I have seen many an old mountaineer on his back both
+here and at Fernando Po—renders this third leg a necessity. It is
+sometimes neatly carved, and provided with a round bulge for a
+snuff-box at the handle. The men carried weapons, old muskets with
+greasy rags wrapped round the rusty locks, or long broad
+blades<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> in skin
+sheaths, ending in a leathern disk, like the daggers of the Somal.
+Those who could not afford such costly sorts had common ‘matchets,’
+thin choppers of base metal fitted with wooden handles. The women
+were evidently the bees of the social hive; almost all of them were
+laden with large black panniers of bamboo cane shaped and strapped
+to the back, except when the place was already occupied by the
+baby, clinging racoon-like to the parental person, and supported by
+a foot square of grass-cloth, with shoulder braces. There was
+little of beauty among the fair and faithless Bakwiri; some of
+them, however, had firmly-made lower limbs, like the
+<em>mollets</em> of the constitutional-loving Englishwoman. The
+elders were ‘bales of cadaverous goods,’ the juniors had the
+grotesque prettiness of the baby gorilla, and some wore their faces
+blackened in sign of mourning, a practical illustration of sending
+coals to Newcastle, lily-painting, or gold-gilding. They were
+wonderfully tattooed with a blue, produced, it is said, by the soot
+of some root and a resinous gum picked up on the shore. The
+patterns were fanciful <em>sévignés</em>, perpendicular lines down
+the forehead, artificial eyebrows,—the natural being shaven,—wedges
+between the optics and temples, circles and wheels upon the cheeks
+and chin, and similar efforts of high art. The
+eyelashes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> were
+plucked, with the usual unpleasant effect, making the organ look
+bleared, fixed, and beast-like. The operation is an infallible
+preventive to</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Ce trait de feu qui des yeux passe à
+l’âme,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;De l’âme aux sens.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>All, even children three or four years old, were clamorous for a
+<em>prise</em>. In these countries both sexes sensibly use tobacco,
+which in Europe has mostly been monopolized by the wrong sex. It is
+placed between the lip and teeth,<a id="FNanchor_47"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> and even the common powder
+made by Krumen is preferred to the best smoking leaf. They appeared
+healthy. A few cases of ulcers and hydrocele were seen, but on the
+whole they were freer from disease than our party of Krumen.</p>
+
+<p>As we advanced a single woodman’s hut appeared upon the
+roadside, the scattered plantations showing a tolerable population;
+and loud musket reports were heard rumbling and echoing through the
+hills. Mr. Johnson accounted for them by some recent death. The
+wood was vocal with the hoo-hoo-hoo of the touraco, which a
+stranger might mistake for a dog’s<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_86">[86]</span> bark. The palm-birds fluttered round their
+nested tree; and the widow-bird perched upon the spray. At times a
+brown kite (<i>F. chilla</i>) lay on the wing, the sole sign,
+except the sand-fly, of animal life. After an ugly pull up rocks
+and roots, dotted with grass, and bewildered by a labyrinth of
+paths—our carriers were compelled to rest every half-hour—we
+entered the district of Bosumbo, and found three scattered tents
+tenanted by Bakwiri. These people do not, like the Fernandian
+Bubes, congregate in towns: the scarcity of water and petty feuds
+keep them separate. They do not inhabit the immediate seaboard for
+fear of kidnappers; nor do they extend up the mountains higher than
+the banana and the oil palm. Their habitat is therefore, as is the
+case with the Bubes, between 1000 and 3000 feet above sea-level.
+Mr. Johnson insisted upon leading us to the tenement of the chief,
+Myombi, who lives, probably for safety, like most of his fellows,
+in the centre of his district. At 10·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> we reached the place, two blocks, each of two
+huts, surrounded by plantains, and separated by a hundred yards or
+so. It lies between N.N.E. and N. of Victoria, distant about 4½
+miles;<a id="FNanchor_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48" class=
+"fnanchor">[48]</a> and the altitude is 1055 feet. Presently Myombi
+himself made his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>
+appearance in the glazed hat of a British tar—these people must
+make themselves ridiculous in some way—and showed us a little
+civility, which time proved to be not wholly disinterested. We
+halted at his place for breakfast: water threatening not to last,
+we experimented upon the banana-stalk, and found its porous and
+cellular tissue to contain a refreshing supply of wholesome drink,
+with a faint flavour of cucumber. Some of the natives have not, it
+is said, any other potable; and it forms excellent fodder for
+cattle, keeping fresh for three weeks. Mr. Johnson mentioned
+succulent herbs and water-bulbs, like those of the South African
+karroos; none, however, were met with.</p>
+
+<p>Noon saw as again on the footpath way. A short distance out of
+Bosumbo took us to a quadrivium, of which the north-east branch led
+down the hill-slopes, through a country of scattered settlements,
+to the populous town of Abo;<a id="FNanchor_49"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> the south and east to the
+sea; and the west, our direction, up the mountain.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> Myombi had been persuaded, by
+the gift of a pair of matchets, to lend us a guide. The sun’s heat
+was overpowering in the lanes of grass that here opened out, and
+there strangled the road. It was a fine place for snakes. They are
+rare, however, in these dank regions; the only specimen seen was a
+fine asp (Cerastes), hanging outside one of the cottages. The
+bearing of our path somewhat perplexed me; we struck nearly due
+west; and instead of ascending from, we seemed descending to, the
+sea. Presently the cause appeared in a few scattered huts, called
+Turu,<a id="FNanchor_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50" class=
+"fnanchor">[50]</a> whose chief came forth and forbade passage till
+presented with a cloth and a matchet. We then resumed the road,
+which dwindled to a hardly perceptible by-path, crossing from east
+to west, with other ramifications leading, it was said, to Bimbia.
+Here the face of the country was wrinkled with prisms of jagged
+trachytic rock, separated by chasms, cloughs, and ravines, which
+must roll torrents during the rains, and by pick and spade might
+easily be made to supply water throughout the year. We passed many
+old clearings, or rather fallows, denoted by high grass and
+plantains run wild, and a few fresh cuttings, a hundred feet each
+way, in the dense bush. The rocky, rooty ground rendered walking
+difficult,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> and
+condemned us to look more often at our feet than at the features of
+the country. On the dank, miry surface, unseen by the midday sun,
+the ants were unusually troublesome; and we found a few millepedes
+and land-shells, which were secured for transmission home. Llianas,
+which here extend from 2000 to 7000 feet high, ‘romped upon the
+trees.’ There were asclepiadæ, gardeniaceæ, convolvulaceæ, and
+cucurbitous plants, whose fruit, like the cocoa, forms a convenient
+water-dipper. The dry season is in these regions the flowery
+period. The ipomæa, a bright blue convolvulus, and momordica with
+red-yellow flower and little prickly gourd, invested the bush where
+it was more than usually open. The clematis was beautiful with its
+spangles of white bloom; and we especially remarked a geranium; a
+papilionaceous bean-like blossom of vivid scarlet; a perfumed
+flower, not unlike a honeysuckle; and the large yellow malvacea,
+popularly called hibiscus. There were orchids in numbers; but these
+epiphytes in Africa lack the beauty of the American. The
+conspicuous tree of the forest was the enormous eriodendron; the
+anthocleista and monodora were remarkable for their foliage; whilst
+the sterculia, though leafless, glowed with carmine-coloured
+fruit.</p>
+
+<p>After three miles of hard labour, which made us tremble for our
+loaded Krumen’s feet, and halt frequently<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_90">[90]</span> to recruit exhausted nature with
+<em>anizado</em> and water, the guide suddenly exclaimed, ‘Mboka
+Botani!’ (Botani’s town). It had an ominous sound; and we were
+afterwards justified in terming it Botany Bay. The district is
+called Mapanya. Here every place appears to have two names, its own
+and that of its head-man. Presently tall shredded plantains
+appeared rustling in the now cooler breeze, which was odorous with
+a salvia bearing a fair blue flower. An African stile, three
+transverse rungs for steps—sometimes there is a notched
+palm-trunk—in the dwarf but solid palisade, introduced us to a
+settlement of two huts, from which the unarmed tenants sallied
+forth with horrid din, to gaze upon us with absorbed stare. During
+our few minutes’ <em>séance</em> the judge descried a horn,
+probably ivory, and proposed adding it to his collection: the
+owner, however, modestly demanded only a hat, a coat, and a shirt;
+in fact, he wanted to become a ‘gentleman.’ The warning of the
+guide, who pointed to a sinking sun, brought us to our feet again;
+and after sundry rises and sinkings of ground we saw upon the
+summit of a grassy and flowery hill a figure in wide-awake and
+blanket-suit, which proved to be M. Mann. He had spent the day—as
+his first words informed us—in rest, having returned but yesterday
+evening from the summit. The announcement caused us to ‘tie
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> face,’ as the
+Africans say. Soon, however, I reflected that, considering the
+distance and the height, it was some mistake on his part; and this
+it proved to be. The enterprising botanist, so far from having
+scaled the summit, had never even seen it. Meanwhile he led us into
+a hut which he had cleared out and occupied, supplied us with some
+bad green water, which he had purchased at the rate of three
+tobacco-leaves per breaker,<a id="FNanchor_51"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> and an excellent
+pepper-pot of yam and fowl.</p>
+
+<p>We had hardly seated ourselves, and removed from our
+continuations the hamated burrs of the hedysarum,<a id=
+"FNanchor_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>
+before Botani, a buxom chief, made his appearance, and M. Mann
+introduced him as ‘an unusually polite person, quite different from
+those he had previously seen.’ He was a short thickset individual,
+aged about thirty-five, with a well-turned, hillman’s leg. His
+complexion, like that of his wives—many of whom had ‘taken venues
+under their girdles’—and his children, who were numerous, was a
+sallow yellow, a tint rare about the Camaroons River: the contrast
+with the dark brown of his followers would suggest in Eastern
+Africa a difference of descent. His brown eyes were bare of lash
+and brow; his long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span>
+fat upper lip was clean shaven; his beard was the Yankee goatee;
+and he had a regulation whisker, tattooed in bright blue. Not less
+laughable than his <em>personale</em> was this Soulouque’s costume:
+a lofty black beaver, a scanty breech-cloth of chequed cotton, and
+a full-dress coatee, all red and yellow—‘devil’s livery’—of the old
+Royal Marines. Thus attired <em>en roi</em>, he progressed towards
+the hut-door; and whilst the vulgar squatted upon the ground,
+shouting a song and beating time, he performed a solemn pavane,
+ending in a lavolt, a turn-about, a wheel-about, and a jump Jim
+Crow, in right royal African style. A frantic pushing of palms, as
+if he would prostrate each new-comer friend, and an accolade, right
+breast to right breast, were the signs of absolute welcome which
+our Polichinelle vouchsafed to us. The judge roared with delight;
+but I felt grave. When the negro king dances he expects the white
+man to pay the piper somewhat heavily.</p>
+
+<p>The edifying exercise concluded, M. Mann told us the tale of his
+troubles. On the 13th December, after a ‘dash’ of ten
+‘little’—pronounced lill—‘tings,’ each worth a shilling,<a id=
+"FNanchor_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a>
+to Myombi and Nangasika, the first and second head-men of Bosumbo,
+he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> had left Victoria
+with Mr. Pinnock, Money his interpreter, six Krumen, and a Mokwiri
+guide, with seven followers, who had received, as fee for safe
+conduct to Mapanya, four pieces, <em>i.e.</em> goods worth
+4<em>l.</em> Arrived in the evening at the Bosumbo, which he called
+‘Bassumba,’ village, he gave the chief his present—an assortment of
+‘lill’ tings’ worth about thirty shillings. The next day was a
+compulsory halt; the natives, pleading fatigue, refused to proceed,
+and Mr. Money, having drawn payments to the amount of 2<em>l.</em>
+in kind, naturally ran away. Thus the traveller was reduced to
+employ as interpreter a boy seven or eight years old, a Bimbia
+orphan in the service of Mr. Pinnock, and rejoicing in the name of
+‘Poor Fellow.’ This was the first mishap. Everywhere in Africa the
+interpreter should be a man of weight and wealth. On the 15th,
+Myombi again refused passage till dashed to the extent of
+2<em>l.</em> in a coat, a keg of powder, and minor articles. Here
+was a decided mistake, which patience would have prevented. The
+only return gift was a small black porker, a wretched fowl, and two
+yams. M. Mann, however, starting at 8 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, reached in four hours his <em>Meta
+Incognita</em>, Mapanya. On the 16th, Botani, who had left home
+ordering a hut to be cleared for his visitor, returned without pomp
+or dancing, and received his ‘dash’—one musket, one keg of powder,
+matchets and knives, snuff-box, mirror,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_94">[94]</span> rum, tobacco, and silk and cotton kerchiefs,
+worth in toto about 2<em>l.</em> 10<em>s.</em>, for which he agreed
+to supply an escort. On the 17th the chief brought eleven men, and
+demanded for them each one head of tobacco and one fathom of cloth,
+besides extra blackmail for himself, a musket, sundry kerchiefs,
+rum, and tobacco, in value, perhaps, thirty shillings. M. Mann set
+out at 7 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, reached the water, which he
+afterwards christened by his name, at 5 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, and nighted a little beyond it. On the next day,
+the natives having disappeared, he was accompanied by two Krumen
+only to a Cone, where he left his maximum and minimum thermometers,
+and whence he returned—persuaded that he had reached <em>the</em>
+Peak, which was under a cloud—arriving at Mapanya on the 18th
+December.</p>
+
+<p>It is evident that ten guineas will not pay the expenses of a
+vacation tour to the Camaroons Highlands, as it has been made to do
+in Switzerland.</p>
+
+<p>After the ‘stagnant air and leaden sky, the livid clouds and
+rain-torrents, heavy, prone, and broad,’ in the oil rivers, the
+‘dissolution and thaw’ of Fernando Po, and the ‘simmering upon a
+damp mattress’ in the regions below, we enjoyed a pleasant soirée
+in the soft, light, hazy air. At 6 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>
+the thermometer showed 69° Fahr., in the Camaroons River it rarely
+sinks below 73°, and ranges from that to 82°. The Krumen, being
+sadly tired, asked, after their fashion, leave to<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> play, and sang and danced
+through half the night. Mr. Saker and I slept in M. Mann’s tent,
+composed of three blankets, two for the pent-roof, and one for the
+boot and entrance. The judge and the botanist preferred the
+hard-knobbed floor of the tent.</p>
+
+<p>My heart fell at the prospect before us. We had four sets of
+Krumen, the most disorderly of their unruly herd. All were
+apparently to be masters; it was the old query—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘I Señor—thou Señor—he Señor,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;Tell me who’ll pull the boat
+ashore?’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">They entered the tent and impudently took whatever
+they inclined to, rum and tobacco, pork and white rice. We had set
+apart a breaker of pure water; they pushed in and helped themselves
+<em>ad libitum</em>. The savage instinct readily returns upon this
+race. I have heard old man-of-war’s Krumen tell their Captain that
+in the bush all men are equal. They contributed not a little to the
+failure of the Niger expedition in 1857. The members,
+supersaturated with Exeter Hall influences, treated their
+forty-seven negroes like rational beings. A little ‘prigging’
+began; first a few leaves of tobacco, then a mirror, a knife, a
+matchet: after a few weeks the supercargo found that he had lost
+goods to the extent of 240<em>l.</em></p>
+
+<p>My resolution was taken during that cool pleasant night, which
+was succeeded by a delightful morning,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_96">[96]</span> the mercury showing 64° Fah. at 5
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, and the small birds singing with all
+their throats. At the break of day we arose, banished the thoughts
+of the sand-flies with strong green tea, and saw our breath—What a
+pleasure to the Englishman in the tropics! My companions were
+persuaded to place the Kruman party under my charge, and I made
+them over to Selim Aga with an order that no man should enter the
+tent or touch the rations without leave. The fellows listened with
+a smile, and instantly disobeyed, a proceeding as readily noticed
+by the soundest external application. ‘He be debbil man,’ was the
+remark with which my ears were gratified. This, however, was the
+beginning of amendment; the fustigations were afterwards more
+ceremoniously conducted, and at the end of a fortnight my rascals
+were in fair working order, sighing for ‘Nanny Po,’ which at other
+places they regard with horror.</p>
+
+<p>The 20th December was a Friday, and a halt. Mr. Johnson and
+Money, whose services were no longer required, returned to
+Victoria, and seven Krumen under Selim Aga accompanied them, with
+orders to bring a fresh relay of provisions. We had ample time to
+cast a look around Mapanya and at its population.</p>
+
+<p>The clearing lies W.N.W. of Victoria, and N.N.W. of Bosumbo. It
+is distant from the sea about 7½ miles,<a id=
+"FNanchor_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54" class=
+"fnanchor">[54]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span>
+and the altitude was laid down at 2650 feet. The site is a dwarf
+platform, and the enclosure is 1100 feet across. Curious to say, in
+this land of chronic skirmish there are no stockades, the use of
+which is so well known to Africans. As early as 1562 Sir John
+Hawkins had 6 men killed and 40 wounded, out of a total of 150 men,
+before one of these ‘Pahs’ near Elmina. It is surrounded by a dense
+bush, in which the saccharum grows ten to eleven feet high, and the
+plantain, the cork-tree, and that locally called gamboge
+(<i>Psorospermum alternifolium</i>), forming a background. A little
+below the entrance is the last Elæis, that typical tropical type,
+here stunted to about thirty feet. The natives, I have said, cannot
+live without this tree: they tap it for their drink every morning,
+leaving an empty calabash for the next day’s draughts, and during
+the operation they make the peculiar laughing, crowing cry, which,
+echoed by the hills, sounds weird and strange in the wild. They
+prepare a modicum of oil for household use, and carry to market the
+fresh nuts removed from the spike. Where the wood opens there is a
+lovely view. Thousands of feet above us, bearing N. ¼ W., and
+emerging from the shaggy folds of the mountain, are three ‘nicks,’
+as they are called in the North Country, one wooded, the two upper
+bare. M. Mann informed us that we should find water behind the
+highest and boldest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span>
+Cone, which can be seen from Fernando Po, and we named them the
+‘Three Sisters.’ The background, dense with eternal forest, which
+shuts in the higher cones, is clear and sharp between 8 and 9·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, and again an hour before sunset:
+during day, however, it is hid at this season by a veil of
+muslin-like vapour. Below us we sight, as though through the small
+end of a telescope, the blue and misty ocean, with its edge, not
+rising in the lowlands like a wall on the horizon, but ill defined
+and melting into sky; and by walking a few paces we see a
+bird’s-eye view of Mondori Island, the Bimbia Hills, hung in middle
+space between firmament and ocean, and the Camaroons River,
+winding, like a dull white thread, through an abyss of brownish
+blue.</p>
+
+<p>The settlement consists of two parallel lines of huts, four on
+one side facing three on the other, as near the Camaroons and
+Gaboon Rivers, forming the nucleus of a single street, which runs
+into a steep grass-lined by-path, leading up the mountain. There
+are also little tracks and passages through the bush to the
+adjoining villages. The only objects of remark are a few large
+grindstones, the dwarf trellises for gourds growing at the
+entrance, and in the centre, propped by other stones, a small
+basaltic block, hollowed out like a shallow mortar. Before our
+arrival M. Mann had seen the principal men busy in ‘making
+Fetish’<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> to ward off
+bad luck and to keep the peace. They poured water from a dipper
+over a small broom placed upon this embryo altar, and offered
+similar libations on all the roads leading out of the villages. It
+is a race</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Whose primitive religion reaches</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">&nbsp;As far as Adam’s first green
+breeches;’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">but this time their Fetish was not ‘strong.’</p>
+
+<p>The huts are oblongs, with pent-roofs of palm-thatch, and the
+walls are wattled posts of the strong and fibrous tree-fern,
+covered with sheets of bark to keep out the wind. Near the outside
+lie stones and logs, used as chairs, and the experienced eye
+notices the ominous drum. It is shaped like a large keg, with two
+parallel slits in one of the long ends, leaving between them a
+solid bar for handle;<a id="FNanchor_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55"
+class="fnanchor">[55]</a> the reverse side, upon which it stands,
+is flattened, and the sticks are a pair of little cudgels. The huts
+have a single door, but neither window nor chimney. The interior is
+divided into three: at one end is a dark chamber, serving, I
+presume, for the father and mother that make the family; the centre
+is the hall, &amp;c.; and the other extremity may be called the
+kitchen, containing a rough hearth and an upper platform, below
+which meat is smoked in a hanging tray, and above which fuel is
+stored. Furniture there is none; the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_100">[100]</span> beds are coarse hatchet hewed planks four
+feet long, and placed upon cross-blocks. Cleanliness is the last
+thing thought of; the ceiling looks as if painted with coal-tar,
+the air reeks with smoke, and the floors show that sheep, goats,
+and poultry pass the night with their owners.</p>
+
+<p>Under such circumstances life is necessarily simple. These
+gymnosophists have no want but food and drink, fuel and tobacco. Of
+course they will not labour, and, if they did, they would be fools.
+A few hours’ work in the year enables them to burn some square
+yards in the bush and to plant their banana-stems, after which
+climate does the rest. The Bakwiri rise with the dawn, and shiver
+till the fire is lit. The men then hasten to their palm-trees, and
+to assist them in their ascent, carry a hoop made of many kinds of
+creepers. It is an oval, of three feet conjugate; the part intended
+for behind the back is broad, that which touches the tree is
+twisted, and the ends are hooked and knotted together.<a id=
+"FNanchor_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>
+In the rainy season it is necessary to cut little steps in the
+trunk. The women, shouldering their panniers, go forth for food and
+water. About the latter article there is a mystery. When we ask
+where they find it, the reply is, ‘too far off;’ they refuse to
+show it. We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span> observe
+that the people grease themselves with palm-oil instead of
+washing—imagine the consequences!—and that the animals are not
+allowed to drink. They return after some time from various
+directions, bearing calabashes corked with leaves, and the contents
+are turbid or green. We conclude, therefore, that their wells are
+probably stagnant pools, soon exhausted, and that they are then
+reduced to squeezing ferns, grasses, and dewy plants for their
+beverage. Presently the little flocks, which have kept up a concert
+of cries, are driven out by the boys to graze. The goats, like the
+Camaroons ‘Egbo,’ are superior to those of the coast; the sheep are
+of the lanky, hairy, thin-tailed kind, resembling dogs rather than
+Southdowns. These animals are greatly valued by the people, who
+will not sell them except for exorbitant sums; they are better
+treated than the children, and are used chiefly to pay ransoms, to
+settle palavers, or to serve as stock when ‘trust’ fails. They are
+never milked, and when we applied for a little of the article the
+answer was, ‘King he no will!’ The poultry is plentiful and good,
+but hardly to be bought. I saw amongst them the short-shanked
+African variety, black and yellow game-birds like those of
+Tenerife, and a breed of hens with spurs like cocks. Each village
+contains half a dozen long-legged pigs, somewhat like the black
+hogs of China, which are as familiar<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_102">[102]</span> to the hut and as foul to the street as the
+Irishman’s best friend. A few prick-eared curs are also bred for
+the table and for hunting purposes. The children are numerous, and
+the high birth-rate amongst savages is the best test of prosperity,
+as increased infant mortality is the surest sign of
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> the villagers break their
+fast. The food is ‘fufu’ of plantain, pounded and made into paste
+with water; it is eaten with a kind of ‘palaver sauce,’ palm-oil,
+yam, hibiscus (<i>Corchorus olitorius</i>, the Egyptian
+mulukhiyah), and, when they can get it, ‘bush-meat.’ The women work
+through the day; the men pass their time chatting, smoking, and
+taking snuff, sleeping, brawling, and drinking—when rum is not to
+be had—palm-wine, which is boiled for greater strength. At 3
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> the flocks are folded, and at 4 there
+is a dinner like the breakfast. Wood and water are again brought
+in, and at 8 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> the village is as silent
+as the grave. Thus—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Les jours qui viennent et vont</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">Se refont.’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">‘What a wretched existence!’ the European reader
+will exclaim.</p>
+
+<p>I vehemently doubt this. The so-called reflecting part of
+Creation will measure every other individual’s happiness or misery
+by its own; consequently it is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_103">[103]</span> hoodwinked in its judgment. Considering the
+wisdom displayed in the distribution and adaptation of mankind, I
+venture to opine that all are equally blessed and cursed: both
+sexes and every age, the great and lowly, the rich and poor, the
+robust and the confirmed invalid. Some temperaments enjoy more
+acutely, and suffer in proportion; others are less sensitive; both,
+however, it appears to me, have the same sum total of felicity. The
+Lawgiver of the Hebrews must have so believed when he made this
+world the sole scene of human existence, requiring no future life
+to restore the fancied unevenness of the balance. ‘If it were not
+for the assistance of artificial madness, false lights, refracted
+angles, varnish, and tinsel, there would be a mighty level in the
+enjoyments of mortal man,’ said one of the wisest of our modern
+humourists. The Anatomist of Melancholy somewhere remarks that the
+two greatest enjoyments are meeting the ‘object of one’s
+affections’ and the intermission of severe sickness: thus
+explaining why those hug life who live in what the healthy deem
+tortures. I am convinced that my dull and half-fossilized Bakwiri
+are not a whit less happy or less miserable than any prince,
+millionaire, or philosopher in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The chief Botani had shown himself most eager for his ‘hansel,’
+and we persuaded him with difficulty to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_104">[104]</span> wait till 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>
+He then appeared in great hurry, armed with what the Chinese call
+the ‘divine utensil,’ his symbol of chieftainship, his throne—a
+stool. We presented him in due form with his ‘dash,’—one mirror,
+two knives, two cutlasses, two heads of tobacco, one cotton
+kerchief, one silk bandanna, and a 10-lb. keg of powder, the latter
+here worth as many shillings. Though accompanied by his confidant,
+whose eyes expressed infinite greed, he appeared satisfied, emitted
+sundry ‘meditative grunts of much content,’ and in sovereign
+self-satisfaction retired with his easily-won, ill-gotten gains to
+speechify about his grandeur as protector of all the whites, and to
+get tipsy.</p>
+
+<p>The consequence was a lively scene. Botani had been ‘fresh’ in
+the morning, and unpleasantly civil. In the <em>bonhomie</em> of
+his early drink, not having the fear of Allah before his eyes, but
+being moved thereto and seduced by the instigation of the Shaytan,
+he had offered me—not <em>en tout bien et tout honneur</em>—his
+daughter, a small yellow child, about twelve years old, and seemed
+thunderstruck by my refusal. Continence, everywhere a rare and
+difficult virtue, is regarded by barbarians—despite what Dr.
+Livingstone asserts—rather with contempt than with respect. He had
+been treated like a great Mogul, and with a few glasses of rum he
+became a Great Mogul. About<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_105">[105]</span> 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> he rushed
+out of his hut, with drawn dagger, and began the war-dance. After a
+long brawl he laid forcible hands upon the small interpreter ‘Poor
+Fellow,’ and swore that he would seize him for Money’s debts. When
+in this state, and only then, these negroes, losing their sense of
+fear, become dangerous; at other times they are not more formidable
+than hyænas. M. Mann, though unarmed, pluckily enough pulled away
+the boy and drew him into a hut. Botani then rushed to the
+war-drum, and commenced a frantic <em>pas de charge</em>; the
+women—ominous sign!—slunk into the bush, and the men provided
+themselves with knives and muskets. Mr. Saker and I had taken up
+quarters for the day in a hut opposite that occupied by our
+companions. He began to harangue the people in Isubu, a language
+which the Bakwiri, who intermarry with the Bimbias, understand, and
+the rest of us had recourse to our revolvers. Presently a diversion
+in our favour arose. An old hunter, who had led the botanist up the
+mountain—we called him ‘Balmat’—came forth, armed like the rest,
+and addressed furious reproaches to his chief, who was running to
+and fro like a vicious madman, hoping that we might bolt, but
+fearing to begin the fray. After much of this display, Botani’s
+brother, <em>i.e.</em> confidant, addressed us civilly, and, after
+a long speech, split a plantain-leaf into three pieces, which he
+severally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> deposited
+in ‘Poor Fellow’s’ hand,—a kind of memorandum of how much ‘trust’
+was owing to the village. Botani then pressed palms with all
+around, once, twice, and thrice, as men about to be hanged are wont
+to do; the strangers, who had flocked from the neighbouring
+settlements at the sound of the war-drum, departed, and the women
+reappeared. Our doughty chief then retired to sleep off his rum.
+When all was over, we pulled out our revolvers from our
+breeches-pockets, and made signs that next time their use should be
+made manifest.</p>
+
+<p>Liquor was the primal cause of this trouble; there were,
+however, others. The Judge, wild with delight at escaping Fernando
+Po, had been a little overintimate with the people, dancing with
+them, and making them laugh, under the erroneous impression that it
+would win their good graces. Familiarity breeds contempt in Africa
+as well as in Europe, and the fun ended in horseplay, chiefly
+beard-pulling. It was a misfortune, but inevitable, that we had a
+child for our interpreter. But it was a great mistake to encamp in
+a central village; we should have followed the East African plan,
+and either have bivouacked outside, or at any rate at the further
+end of the enclosure.</p>
+
+<p>A profound calm succeeded this tempest. We passed a pleasant
+night listening to the bush-dog<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_107">[107]</span> calling for ‘fire ’tick,’<a id=
+"FNanchor_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a>
+the murmurs of the wind, the growling of thunder down south, and
+the rustling of the tattered plantain-leaves, which sounded like
+raindrops. ‘Poor Fellow’ spent the time in fear and trembling,
+whilst the Krumen armed themselves with matchets, and begged for
+candles, which we refused; they retired doggedly, and probably
+spent hours in calculating whether in case of desertion they could
+steal a boat and make some ship, where they would have been
+thankfully received.</p>
+
+<p>At 10·15 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, on the morning of the
+21st December, Selim Aga returned with his small command from
+Victoria. Unhappily he was accompanied by the chief Myombi, who had
+behaved badly to M. Mann, and that chief was moreover ‘sprung.’ He
+began by demanding a glass of bilám—rum—and when refused he retired
+in dudgeon to some hut, where he apparently found it. The beery
+Botani was this morning as tame as one when liquor is dying within
+him; he was sitting upon the stool of repentance with a very
+hangdog look. Shortly after our breakfast a gathering of the clan
+took place upon the logs and stones outside the tent, at whose door
+he was squatting.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>
+Something evidently was in the wind. Presently ‘Poor Fellow’ was
+sent for, and ordered to ask us our intentions on the morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Our reply was brief, but explicit. On the morrow we were to
+ascend the mountain with nine or ten guides, whom we offered to
+fee, and we expected in return for our ‘dashes’—which had not
+provoked any retaliation—kindness and civility.</p>
+
+<p>Botani, the dipsomaniac, was then put forward by Myombi, who sat
+ostentatiously in the background. After a long consultation, ‘Poor
+Fellow’ was directed to inform us that the price of ascending the
+mountain was 500 ‘big tings,’ <em>i.e.</em> 500<em>l.</em>,
+otherwise that we might return whence we came. Yesterday Botani had
+shown the normal African dread of our leaving his village whilst we
+had cloth and food, and now he was urged to desperation by the
+villain Myombi. The demand provoked a shout of laughter, and we
+asked them if they could not take something less. In another
+half-hour they brought it down to 300<em>l.</em> But we had now
+seventeen Krumen besides our five selves—a force too strong for the
+Bakwiri: ‘ultimate sovereignty resides in the right arm of man;’
+the <em>mollia tempora fundi</em> had passed by; ‘defiance not
+defence’ became our motto. Despite the excited remonstrances of M.
+Mann, who, desiring to make a depôt at Mapanya, urged the
+<em>suaviter in modo</em>, which infallibly would<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> have led to other and greater
+troubles, I resolved by Mr. Saker’s advice to try the <em>fortiter
+in re</em>. ‘Poor Fellow’ was told to say that we were tired of
+this ‘fool talk,’ that we would not pay another farthing, but
+advance by foul, if not by fair means. The reply was, that we
+should not have carriers nor guides. We rejoined that ‘it was
+nothing to Bacchus,’ that we would go alone; and pointing to
+Myombi, who frequents the market at Victoria, we made him
+understand that he should answer for this ‘palaver.’</p>
+
+<p>Whilst Mr. Saker spoke to the people, I was pleased to find how
+much could be done by one wholly ignorant of the language, with the
+assistance of signs learned amongst the North American aborigines.
+Gestures have been well defined as the hieroglyphics of speech. If
+fate ever lead me back to Europe, and lend me leisure, I hope to
+make a further study of the subject in surdo-mute establishments,
+and to produce a system which may prove generally useful,
+especially to those beginning a foreign tongue. A hundred words
+easily learned in a week, 200 signs, and a little facility in
+sketching, would enable, I believe, a traveller to make his way
+through any country, even China, a few days after arrival.</p>
+
+<p>But as neither eloquence nor gestures appeared to produce the
+least effect upon the mule-like Bakwiri, we suited the deed to the
+word, arose, and prepared<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_110">[110]</span> for departure. It was now a treat to see
+the avidity of the savages as they peered over our shoulders into
+bag and box.<a id="FNanchor_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58" class=
+"fnanchor">[58]</a> Botani and Myombi had many confabs.; many too
+were the confabs. of their followers. The great men at last retired
+under a plantain clump at the side of the village, and, eyeing our
+proceedings with the superiority of sarcasm, declared that we
+should never find the way, and that if we did our valuables must be
+abandoned. Our loads were for twenty-five men, of whom we had only
+fourteen. Presently all departed, leaving only the women, children,
+and four-footed animals in the village. Their conduct was eminently
+childish—African. They knew, poor worshippers of St. Belly, that
+they gained, and greatly gained, by being in our good graces; but
+they wanted more—in fact all—and not being able to get all, they
+would take nothing. We debated upon the propriety of recovering our
+‘dashes;’ presently we resolved to leave them no ground for
+complaint. But before Europeans can travel about this country, the
+people must be taught to expect pay for service only, and be
+severely punished if they attempt their avanies.</p>
+
+<p>A little after midday we sent forward up the Hill<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> of Difficulty our first
+detachment under Messrs. Calvo and Saker, ordering the Krumen to
+return after finding a camping-place in the bush. The rest of us
+waited below with the remnant, doing watch and ward, and straining
+our eyes for the reappearance of the carriers. The distance was
+little more than a mile.<a id="FNanchor_59"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> Yet 2 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> passed—then three—then four—we were beginning to
+fear some accident, and to dread the delay of a day; Dante himself
+could not walk in the Cimmerian night of an African <em>selva
+oscura</em>—when at 5 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> our truants
+heralded their approach with the Swiss-like Kru-cry ‘Ohyo! Ohyo!
+Hyo! Hyo-o-o!’ and presently appeared with flourishing matchets,
+skipping down the hill-path. They had lost the road when ascending,
+and had had a weary time.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty minutes were consumed during the second loading; it
+reminded me of bygone hair-whitenings in East Africa. Only nine
+Krumen had returned, five having shirked duty. The strongest
+insisted upon loading most heavily the weakest: we reduced all the
+weight we could, still two loads lay hopelessly upon the ground. At
+that time, however, some of the humbler sort of villagers began to
+show, and amongst them ‘Balmat.’ The Grison professed inability to
+carry; he found for us, however, two youths, who, after the usual
+futilities—retiring to consult friends,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_112">[112]</span> demanding ‘ready-money’—and ‘cabbaging’ a
+finger’s length in the measurement—consented to accompany us,
+<em>moyennant</em> two fathoms of satin stripe. One did his work
+manfully, and was rewarded with rum and extra pay; the other, who
+had prudently left his hire in his tent, resolutely refused after a
+few hundred yards to advance, nor did the muzzle of a gun thrust
+against his breast induce him to ‘budge an inch.’</p>
+
+<p>‘Man,’ says the Arab proverb, ‘eats you; the desert does not.’
+With a light heart, although the sun was casting shadows of
+portentous length, we stepped out of Botany Bay; ascended the
+grassy slope; passed sundry outlying huts, the highest human
+habitations on this part of the mountain; and crossing a tall stile
+found ourselves once more in the bush. The road was a copy of that
+leading to Mapanya; steep pitches, ladders of root and rock,
+ridges, hollows, and scrambling places, girt by tall grasses, and
+with a slippery moss-grown surface, where biting ants attacked us,
+and held on even after decapitation. The plantain-clearings
+presently ceased, and we saw the succulent tree no more. The
+nettles, so troublesome on Fernando Po Mountain, began in real
+earnest. There was one vegetable wonder, a giant of the forest,
+raised high above the earth upon aërial roots, like the conical
+spindles of the red mangrove. Several trees, the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> African cork for instance,
+affect a similar formation; but this surpasses them all in stature
+and exaggeration. The road was like Jordan, ‘a hard one to travel.’
+As darkness was imminent, we saw a real light after having often
+been mocked by the fire-flies; we heard shouts above us, and
+presently the rested came down to assist the weary. I arrived at 6
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Selim Aga and M. Mann put in an
+appearance shortly afterwards. Only one bag of rice had been left
+behind, and old ‘Balmat’ had promised to forward it on the
+morrow.</p>
+
+<p>The camp was pitched with a refreshing ignorance of encamping.
+Its site was a steep, narrow ridge, with a slope of 15° and a chasm
+on both sides. Some twenty-four human beings were huddled together
+on a few square feet. The fire was built to leeward, and, as the
+cool night set in, fuel became scarce. It was too late to re-form.
+My attention was confined to the water-breaker; we had but one; the
+inhospitable villagers had refused to fill our others; and the
+nearest, indeed the only known spring, could not be reached before
+the evening of the morrow, if then. During the evening I made a
+chair of the precious breaker, and at night a pillow, determined
+that on such a vital occasion as this there should be no pilfering.
+Krumen, inhabitants of a maritime country where water abounds, are
+uncommonly impatient of thirst; some<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_114">[114]</span> of them actually preferred a drink of the
+element to a dram, but these had probably been making free with our
+rum. They did not, however, neglect to ‘play’ in their usual style.
+An individual dances and addresses, in black man’s English, French,
+and Spanish, the circle of squatters, who reply in roaring chorus
+‘Bateo’—‘Give way!’—and ‘O-e! O-e!’ These people suffer much from
+nostalgia; a drum and a horn should always accompany them on
+expeditions. Often when they are unable to perform a heavy task,
+one of their number dancing before them and singing a home ditty
+has surprised them into renewed exertion. The snorting and snoring
+of the Krumen, a ripping and rag-tearing noise, which awoke with
+awful echoes the stillness of the night, combined with a cup of
+strong green tea, whose pleasant intoxication is as exciting as
+that of ague and fever, caused me a sleepless night that told
+heavily upon the next day’s hard march.</p>
+
+<p>Before dawn on the 22nd December we arose and addressed
+ourselves to our tasks. The Krumen received a ration of pork and
+biscuit and a mouthful of water each; they were unable to boil
+their rice, without which they rarely do a good day’s work. Hands
+being short, we determined to place some loads in deposit. The
+first detachment set out at 7·15 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, and
+soon returned to fetch the packs still lying in<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> camp. After a quarter of an
+hour’s walk we deposited them in a hollow, marked by two dwarf
+parallel palisades of sticks with a heap of stones between, showing
+that large game had been killed there, a practice also common
+amongst the Fernandian Bube. We left behind two breakers, four
+heavy bags of rice, a case of liquor and coffee, and sundry tin
+specimen-boxes containing sundries. Such a <em>câche</em> would not
+have baffled a Sioux for five minutes; here, however, we found it
+answer, and when safely encamped on the mountain we recovered all
+by sending down detachments of Krumen.</p>
+
+<p>The march began at 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, up a rugged
+rise, wooded, with forest rather than with bush, and presently we
+debouched upon the fern region. It was fern, fern, everywhere. The
+valleys were filled with cyatheas, tree-ferns like palms, from ten
+to thirty feet high, surpassingly graceful and beautiful,
+especially when their delicate tracery was viewed from above,
+picked out by the golden rays of the sun. Others were little
+epiphytes (Trichomanes and <i>Dicksonia Selinifolia</i>) springing
+like moss upon the stems—miniature things hardly a foot long. There
+were beds of ferns resembling the common English variety, and
+others running creeper-like up the trunks, contrasting with the
+broad-leaved orchids based upon the boughs. Never has ‘rambler in
+search of ferns’<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>
+seen a more beautiful fernery, set off as it was by the grand
+tropical growth around. My companions were less struck; they had
+familiarized themselves with the spectacle at Fernando Po;
+moreover, on Camaroons Mountain the best sites are occupied by
+clearings and plantations, which is not the case with the Sister
+Peak. At this season, however, the asparagus of the Himalayas was
+too old for eating. The view was charming—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Summer winds about us blowing</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Made a murmur in the land’—</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">but the path was vile, wet and muddy. After a good
+hour’s march we passed under an archway formed by cross trees,
+supported by others still standing. It was at once called Fern
+Gate. And beyond it we fell into a new country.</p>
+
+<p>The bush and forest suddenly disappeared, as though by the work
+of woodmen, and, O joy! we emerged from the region of the clammy,
+dewy grasses that imprisoned us. The eye revelled over a broad
+field of lovely green, a dense mass of small moss and thick fern of
+a single species, <i>T. nephrolapis</i>, so called from its
+fructification. The base was a bed of old and degraded lava, much
+more modern, however, than any in Madeira, or even in the valley of
+Orotava. We were destined to trace this stream to its source, and
+it was palpably the oldest formation of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_117">[117]</span> the kind. We called it Lava Bed No. 1. The
+direction is from north to south, gradually bending at the end
+towards the E.S.E.; in fact, nearly fronting the north-east wind,
+which appears to be that prevalent upon the mountain. I conjectured
+that by following this bearing we could hardly fail to make the
+main source by the nearest line, and was not disappointed by my
+rude analogy. The breadth where we struck the outflow might be half
+a mile; below that point, however, the discharge, finding scantier
+slope, thinned out, spread, and possibly ceased to flow; at least
+we guessed so, from its ending in a forest which conceals from
+sight the sea, to which it extends. It is girt on both sides by a
+dense belt of trees, springing from a stiff yellow clay, the
+portions of the slope which the lava did not overflow. A B. P.
+observation gave us an altitude of 4535 feet, about 1000 feet above
+Snowdon and the Reeks of Kerry, and 800 feet higher than
+Vesuvius.</p>
+
+<p>A hunter’s path was easily found; but careful stepping was
+required. Off the ‘spoor’ it was easy to sink up to the thighs. At
+8·45 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we had crossed the bed from
+S.S.E. to N.N.W., and we sat down under the farther skirting of
+wood. There we saw for the first time a blackberry, common at
+Fernando Po. This <i>Rubus apetalus</i> is enumerated among the
+plants common to Abyssinia, the Mauritius, Bourbon, and<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> Madagascar. Its fruit
+remarkably resembled the common English hedge growth.<a id=
+"FNanchor_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>
+Salvia scented the air; and the green surface was thinly spangled
+with blossoms; two species of fair white gnaphalium, and a shrub
+with scarlet brackets, unknown to our ‘botaniker.’ There was also
+heath, but rather of Madeiran than of Scottish dimensions; an
+ericanella, 15 feet high, thin and rugged as the tamarisk of Sindh.
+The lava, where very old, was thinly clad with a cryptogam, which
+we afterwards found extending to the very base of the grand
+peak.</p>
+
+<p>The bees already began to make themselves felt. They are as
+abundant as in the upper regions of Fernando Po. Already, at
+Mapanya, we had seen in the hands of the villagers a dark and dirty
+comb: the savages ignore hives, even to the extent of the East
+African log. In the upper regions, where clover abounds, like the
+Retama (<i>C. nubigenes</i>) of Tenerife, to which the hives are
+yearly removed, the honey is excellent. The animals build in hollow
+trees, producing, after four days’ labour it is said, a delicious
+white honey, which is easily taken from them, even in the daytime.
+Our camp was infested by them: they seek moisture, and disappear in
+swarms before cold or wind, mist or night. The busy insect appears
+here, as at Fernando Po, unusually amiable, sociable,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> and stupid; and its rare
+stings were little more painful than those of the horse-fly. It is
+different in the plains of Africa. Mungo Park, in his last
+expedition, twice saw his caravan dispersed by swarms, and seven
+beasts killed. In the Eastern Regions I lost in one day three
+asses, and witnessed the capture of a village, by bees.</p>
+
+<p>After a little food, of biscuit and ‘Europe mutton,’ the Band of
+Hope resumed its march at 9·50 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, under
+a sun becoming painfully hot. The fern presently waxed rare, and
+the surface became a mass of detached boulders, between whose
+treacherous sides leg and ankle easily came to grief, and
+lava-blocks thinly sprinkled with lichens, and dry grass. The path
+zigzagged across the old fire-stream, which was disposed in
+prismatic striated dykes, some a quarter of a mile, others a few
+yards, long, running parallel to the course; bluff towards the
+north, and tailing off southward. Many of these long, narrow axial
+ridges were sharp tipped, hardly a foot broad; and the highest
+might be 15 feet above the general level of the matrix. The
+appearance of these longitudinal markings suggested unequal cooling
+of the molten matter. The outer coating, exposed to the air, would
+naturally lose caloric, whilst the melted matter gravitates down
+the pipe or tunnel below. The roughness and angularity must also be
+the work of water and wearing down, the smoothing<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> and rounding off of ice action
+being wholly wanting. Expecting to find at the edge of the stream a
+smoother path, made by the washings of the clay banks, I was
+disappointed: in that direction it was almost impassable. As we
+advanced we exchanged the miry boulders for bare and naked rock,
+which hardly showed the hunter’s trail; and the labour was greatly
+increased by repeatedly ascending and descending the ridges. The
+direction began towards the N.W., gradually winding to N.E. The
+wind was easterly; and as the great puffy clouds, half nimbus, half
+fog, and apparently pregnant with rain, sailed up from the S.W.,
+where the horizon was obscured by inky cumulus, only the ragged
+ends passed over our heads, diffusing brief coolness, and shedding
+the priceless fluid in stingy drops, which one might have counted.
+Mr. Saker, who had taken charge of the water-breaker, prudently
+refused all applications. The Krumen, whose feet were scorched by
+the midday sun, began to lag behind: they had been provided with
+ammunition-boots, but, not having become by habit solidungulate,
+they could not use them without risking broken legs. Selim Aga
+remained to bring up the rear; and the party in advance now
+consisted of four Europeans and two bearers. There was no evidence
+of animals at this time, save man. A loud clamour in the nearer
+woods, followed by what seemed to be the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_121">[121]</span> tramping of men, caused me to draw my
+revolver and to make ready. After yesterday’s scene we certainly
+should have had an attack in East Africa. My companion’s posed look
+told me that it was a false alarm. It proved to be the chattering
+of monkeys, and their retreat among the tree-branches. I presently
+mistook some gaps in the vegetation for snow; and Mr. Saker once
+complained of a complete deafness. The fiery reflected heat was
+robbing us of our senses. Perhaps it was aided by the rarefied air.
+We were not, however, astonished throughout the exploration that we
+suffered so little from the inconvenience of which most travellers
+complain on Mont Blanc and the Rocky Mountains. Some would explain
+our immunity from mountain-sickness, or ‘puna,’ upon the Great
+Peak, only by the constant blowing of the violent east wind, which
+supplied our lungs with the requisite quantity of oxygen as fast as
+they could consume it.<a id="FNanchor_61"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> I believe, however, the
+disease to be, like sea-sickness, merely<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_122">[122]</span> the effect of disordered liver or stomach,
+often aggravated by stimulants, and by sudden and violent
+exertion.</p>
+
+<p>Gradually we had edged towards the eastern side of the lava
+river, where in the high thick vegetation of the banks large black
+mossy stones appeared. Persuaded by the presence of a small
+bird—like the monkeys, they require drink—that the element must be
+near, I sent two Krumen to scrape the ground. It was wet
+immediately below the surface; and during the rains there must be a
+full gutter on each side of the lava-bed. The slope, however, is
+steep, and the drainage rapid. ‘No find water?’ we cried: the
+answer was, ‘Yes, sa!’—‘Yes,’ in Kruman’s English, being an
+affirmative confirming your negative, when the Englishman would say
+‘No.’ Although our botanist had despaired of finding aught potable
+in the absence of succulent plants, Selim Aga, wiser by experience,
+squeezed from the moss half a gallon of dew, sufficient to boil
+water for the boys during the night.</p>
+
+<p>After midday the march became, in the glaring, scorching, solar
+rays, a mere stumbling; we halted at least as much as we walked,
+and the alpenstock had a heavy burden to bear. In vain we shouted
+to the Krumen behind; not a sound was heard. The party was
+‘hopelessly disintegrated.’ The seething heat seemed to wax more
+and more terrible; shoes showed<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_123">[123]</span> signs of giving in,<a id=
+"FNanchor_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a>
+and so did the wearers. At 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we
+halted for a little refreshment—a crust of bread and a cup of
+water—what quintessence of nectar it was! We then resumed our way,
+which became even more rugged and precipitous as we neared the
+crater: it almost irks me to write about it. A mural precipice
+seemed ever to stand before us, and the figures in the van
+regularly disappeared as they topped the heights. The last third is
+rather a field than a bed; it was probably the latest gush, that
+had not power to flow on, but remained to cool and be weathered and
+degraded in jagged blocks, all realism and ugliness.</p>
+
+<p>The sleepless night had told upon me. I found it impossible to
+keep my eyes open; something feverish and fiery ran through my
+veins. A sound sleep upon a lava-block till 4 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> relieved this sensation. On awaking, the prospect
+was not pleasant; not a soul was in sight. I had lost the trail,
+and nothing appeared around me but a tumbled sea of lava rising in
+front like a mountain wave. A bivouac seemed imminent. There were
+green spots under natural dry walls, where the gathering of water
+had produced a scanty growth of herbage. But without fire such a
+night would have ended in a very disagreeable<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_124">[124]</span> morrow, which might have been called by
+the ‘cold name of accident.’</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately, the surgeon of H.M.S. ‘Bloodhound’ had given me a
+‘snake mixture,’ labelled ‘forty drops to be taken in water.’ Even
+without the element they enabled me to pass over the tangled
+surface of the stone-billows forming the ominous frontal wave of
+the stream, and to surmount the final overfall—a high abrupt
+transverse sea surging in massive rollers, and shutting out the
+view beyond. Looking from above, not usually a good <em>point de
+vue</em> in hill countries, I could see the torrent of once fiery
+stone meandering down the hill between its banks of green, with
+here and there a step or ridge, transverse features in the
+longitudinal arrangement, as if the viscid mass had gathered at,
+before overflowing, some obstacle of ground. Of such places we
+counted in the ascent six. Beyond the seventh and last consecutive
+wrinkling of the lava deluge, distant about half a mile, and at the
+foot of a dwarf bowl, which, from its peculiar colour, we presently
+named Black Crater, stood my friends. They called to me—the voice
+travels far in these regions—that water was still distant an hour’s
+march, and they were requested to <em>passer en avant</em>.
+Presently M. Mann, accompanied by a Kruman bearing a breaker,
+disappeared behind the hills, and Mr. Saker disposed himself upon
+the ground. Their desire to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_125">[125]</span> advance under such circumstances appeared
+simple madness. They might have reached the water, but they would
+have left behind them Krumen and rations, tent and bedding, and
+slept in a wood more than 7000 feet above sea-level. M. Mann,
+acclimatized, and now accustomed to ascending West African
+mountains, had outwalked the whole party. He subsequently suffered
+severely for this evidence of superior vigour.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the last horrid lava-ridge of broken blocks, bristling up
+in all directions, the aspect of the land suddenly changes.
+Boulders and striæ disappear; the surface is a bed of scoriæ
+comminuted by the fierce action of the elements, and overgrown with
+moss and tussocks of dwarf grass, which showed signs of a late
+firing. After the continuous ascent since 8 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> a stretch over the smooth hollow was refreshing.
+I sketched on the way the Black Crater, whose outfall had caused us
+so much trouble. It is a truncated cone of considerable antiquity,
+not unlike the Montañeta do Frayle, near the town of Orotava,
+opening towards the south where the wall was broken. The altitude
+of the western or highest lip is 200 feet, or 356 along the slope.
+The circumference of the base is 600 yards, and the diametér of the
+bowl about 100. The outer surface is fine cinder, here bare, there
+dotted with tufts of grass and wilted shrubs; from a
+distance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> it looks
+exceptionally dark, from which circumstance it obtained a name. The
+interior contains a sparse green growth, and the internal northern
+wall shows scaurs of reddish rock. In places the lava appeared
+magnetic. Mr. Saker, who carried his ship’s compass in hand,
+remarked that on one occasion, when placed between the rocks, the
+north pole of the needle pointed to the south, and I noticed,
+besides a decided dip to the north, curious deflections in my own
+pocket-instrument. Our ascent of the lava had lasted from 10
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> to 4·30 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, 6 h. 30 m., of which half were spent in rest,
+and the distance little exceeded two miles,<a id=
+"FNanchor_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a>
+which, however, we set down as, at the lowest estimate, five. The
+road was infamous, and worse for descent than for ascent; yet
+nothing could be easier than to make a highway as practicable as
+any street in Madeira. All the material is there, and a little
+zigzagging would render the slope easy. The height of our camp was
+found to be some 7000 feet, about that of Ootacamund, in the
+Neilgherry Hills.</p>
+
+<p>We had pitched, however, again in a vile place, a dwarf plateau,
+brown and mossy, a few yards broad, and S.W. of Black Crater.
+Between the latter and a grassy neighbour on our north was a narrow
+gorge,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span> that acted
+as conductor to the fierce north-east wind. The place was open to
+the west, where lightning flashed, and was exposed to all ‘skyey
+influences.’ By slow degrees the wearied Krumen began to drop in,
+bringing tent, bedding, and cooking-gear. Selim Aga, however,
+remained in charge of five lag-behinds, who had been too heavily
+loaded.<a id="FNanchor_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64" class=
+"fnanchor">[64]</a> During twilight—it is longer here than in the
+plains, and the sun seems to set (a common mountain phenomenon) at
+a point 20° higher than one expects—M. Mann returned with a full
+breaker, which restored jollity to the camp. We ate the traveller’s
+supper, but we did not sleep the traveller’s sleep. At 5·45
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> the thermometer fell to 60° (Fah.),
+ruddying nose and hand. At 6·15 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> it
+showed 50°, and during the night it sank to 40°,—a severe trial to
+the constitution after 76° to 78° in the lowlands. It was a hard,
+dry, piercing cold, that seemed to mock at clothing. The bitter
+north-east gusts coursing restlessly down the ‘wind-loved’ gully
+caused cramps and shivering; the stony ground, sharp and sloping,
+made hip-bones ache. The fires were of course allowed to die out
+during the smaller hours, and the dew filtered into the
+waterproofs. There were points, however, in favour of the place;
+the air was pure, the water was deliciously cool,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> and the sand-flies, no longer
+measling our hands and faces, had remained below.</p>
+
+<p>A lovely morning, the ‘Smile of God,’ when the wondrous disc of
+light</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘Retinged the dark and livid air with
+bloom,’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">made ample amends for the deficiencies of the
+night. Before us, bearing S.W. ½ W., beyond a grassy hollow, about
+one mile broad, sinking with graceful slope into the lower forest,
+and then rising nearly to our level, the awful form of Little
+Camaroons rose to a point, without rival or neighbour. From this
+distance we could distinguish the platform which divides its
+height. The atmosphere around us was sweet and pure; we felt that
+we were breathing a purer æther, a diviner air. As the upper limb
+of the red light of day, apparently so large, flashed leaping up
+over the cinder-coloured head of Black Crater, it painted with
+every variety of its own hue, pink and red, orange and yellow, the
+pure fleecy clouds, whose huge volumes, at first white as cotton,
+and infinitely subdivided, soared up from the west. Most
+comfortable was their warmth as the rays bathed us. At 6
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> the thermometer had shown 48°, which
+is felt severely in these elevated tropical regions. Presently the
+globular balls of ‘woolpack’ began to surge up from the base of the
+blue giant in front of us, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_129">[129]</span> twist like the smoke of a conflagration
+puffed up from the south-west, till all became broad plains of
+barren cloud. Around, everything was calm, serene, heavenly, except
+where three white men were sitting, journal in hand, and the
+shuddering Kruboys were bringing fuel from the lately charred
+trees. Again we sent forward the empty breaker to the spring, and
+received it full at 7·20 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure id="i4" class="iw1"><a href="images/i4_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i4.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1">LITTLE CAMAROONS, FROM BLACK CRATER.</p>
+
+<p class="cpr">Page 128.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whilst awaiting the estrays, we walked over the grassy hollow,
+and mentally surveyed the future Sanitarium. This would be the best
+locality for the highest part of the establishment. As has been
+seen, the road could easily be made practicable for mules and
+asses. The place itself is well sheltered from the wind, water is
+not distant, and timber begins a few yards below it. Comfortable
+quarters would of course be necessary during the raw and cold wet
+season that lasts from 1st May to the beginning of November: as
+will be presently seen the rains cannot be heavy, and I doubt not,
+indeed, that they are lighter than those of the Himalayas and
+Neilgherry Hills. From this height to nearly the base of the
+summit-cone all is clear and grassy, without gashes or ravines,
+except in the lava-beds, and a few hill-paths, as in the Neilgherry
+Hills, would make riding easy. The Camaroons Mountain has thus a
+grand advantage over the Fernando Po Peak, whose thick and
+tangled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> vegetation
+extends almost to the topmost crater. Clover also growing wild
+here, as at Fernando Po, where there are two species, cattle might
+be bred in abundance; and I have no doubt that most European
+vegetables, cereals, and fruits—apples, for instance, which grow
+3000 feet above sea-level in San Thomé—could be made to flourish.
+The land is rich with its annual dressing of fallen leaves or
+decayed grass, and where the soil is a foot deep it is of the most
+fertile description.</p>
+
+<p>As Selim Aga did not appear at 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>,
+we left water and a Kruman guide, and proceeded towards our
+proposed camp. The path was a mere rut; the walk was pretty round
+the grassy shoulders and folds of various hills: above all was
+grass and rocks, below us a dense dark wood. We passed on our right
+a high broken crater, whose double effusion of lava from the N.N.E.
+to the S.S.W. converging at the base, enclosed a clump of emerald
+trees. In many places patches of a livelier green showed where
+water sinks during the rains. A few birds were seen, a kite sailing
+high in the air, and two butterflies, one white, the other
+yellow—it is astonishing the power of flight, in height as well as
+distance, which these frail creatures seem to possess. There was
+unmistakeable ‘sign’ of hyænas, which must be numerous. And here we
+saw for the first time the earths and hills of a rat (<i>Euryotis
+irrorata</i>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> sp.
+nov.<a id="FNanchor_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65" class=
+"fnanchor">[65]</a>), which cover the upper heights almost to the
+summit of the Great Cone. These animals dig long galleries, which
+appear to have two entrances. They were afterwards easily caught
+with the usual ingenious trap of the Krumen—like the Fernandians
+they show judgment in choosing the best positions—a flexible
+branch, bent to the ground by a cord with a terminal noose, well
+covered by leaves, and a trigger which is started by the tread when
+the animal steps inside to eat the grass or grain within the noose.
+The bodies are sometimes found suspended in the air and clenched so
+tightly round the middle that extravasated blood appears beneath
+the skin when stripped.</p>
+
+<p>After forty-five minutes the path plunged into a wooded dell, a
+glade 2000 feet long, not unlike those about the Buenos Ayres ridge
+at Fernando Po, where we enjoyed cool shade, and an air perfumed by
+a garden of blue labiates and clematites hanging from lofty trees
+at the extreme end of large vegetation. Another quarter of an hour
+brought us, after a total march of 1⅔ miles,<a id=
+"FNanchor_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a>
+to ‘Mann’s Spring,’ and we felt grateful for the happy discovery:
+without this supply all our water must have been carried from
+below. Doubtless there are many similar formations, but the
+difficulty would be to find them. It is a pure cool<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> runnel issuing from peaty
+earth at the foot of a small rock, and sinking into the dark brown
+humus beyond. It is embowered in flowering shrubs and nettles, with
+foliage narrower than the English species, that will supply us with
+a Scottish spinach.</p>
+
+<p>A few yards of ascent beyond the water led to our camp, where
+the Krumen had cleared a slope for us, and had built for themselves
+leafy tabernacles. Shortly after our arrival we heard shouts and
+shots, and had the satisfaction of receiving Selim and his five
+‘slow coaches’ safe and sound. The evening sped pleasantly at this
+altitude, about 7300 feet above the sea, and the night was
+comfortable. I had expected a heavy dew, and to my surprise a
+newspaper left out in the air showed in the morning no traces of
+damp. The atmosphere was cold, clear, and still, except after
+midnight, when furious gusts from the N., the N.E., and the N.W.
+swept round the cone (we called it Earthwork Crater), at whose base
+we were encamped, and after a turmoil of five minutes overhead,
+departed, leaving all as still as the grave.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc02">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38"><span class=
+"label">[38]</span></a>It produces two crops per annum, each of
+twelve bunches, and every bunch fifteen nuts—a total of three
+hundred and sixty: so in India it is said the cocoa produces one
+nut a day. To show the value of the tree, each nut being worth five
+cents, it produces 18 dolls. = 3<em>l.</em> 6<em>s.</em> per
+annum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39"><span class=
+"label">[39]</span></a>It extends about 700 feet above sea-level,
+and has many uses, being employed especially in building.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40"><span class=
+"label">[40]</span></a>Letter from M. Mann, in ‘Journal of the
+Proceedings of the Linnæan Society,’ above alluded to.</p>
+
+<p>The brief notices of the flora of this interesting region are, I
+repeat, either borrowed from the paper above cited or collected in
+conversation with M. Mann. The extremely interesting nature of the
+subject must be my excuse for introducing so many ‘crackjaw
+names.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41"><span class=
+"label">[41]</span></a>It is to be hoped, however, that future
+colonists will not, after a usual fashion, alter the place by
+wanton felling and burning from a forest dense to the other
+extreme—a bare and barren waste.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42"><span class=
+"label">[42]</span></a>So San Thomé, where servitude will expire
+after twelve years, expects nothing but ruination.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43"><span class=
+"label">[43]</span></a>It is a local habit to plunge the seed into
+boiling water. I bought a sack when ignorant of the practice, and
+was astonished to find it rotting in the ground. Curious to say, it
+is not to be had from the seedsmen in London.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44"><span class=
+"label">[44]</span></a>At present the plantain is almost as bad as
+the potato, formerly of so many uses; it supplies the people with
+food and drink, wine and water, cloth, thatch, rope, fuel, fodder,
+and perfume; and it can supply them with writing materials. I
+republish from the ‘Cavalla Messenger,’ the Missionary paper
+printed at Cape Palmas, an excellent description of
+plantain-planting:—</p>
+
+<p>‘<span class="sc">Mr. Editor</span>,—I take the liberty, in the
+following communication, to call the attention of your readers to
+the growth of the plantain for its fibre.</p>
+
+<p>‘In the first place I would remark that it is easily cultivated.
+In preparing the ground for a crop in this country, we meet with
+one grand difficulty—the want of the plough and team. Yet this is
+less felt than in many parts of the world. The constant fall of
+rain in the growing seasons softens the ground, and conveys to the
+roots of plants the soluble parts of the decaying vegetable and
+mineral matter composing the soil as perfectly and thoroughly as if
+ploughed and otherwise cultivated by a team. But in the growth of
+the plantain we are less dependent on plough and oxen for success
+than in the management of most other crops. This is a fact very
+strongly recommending it to the attention of the farmer.</p>
+
+<p>‘To put out a field of plantains the ground should be prepared
+much as it is for cassada-roots. The ground then should be laid out
+in rows about twelve or eighteen feet apart each way.</p>
+
+<p>‘At the point crossed by these rows the soil should be
+thoroughly dug up, and a healthy root set in the centre. The plant
+usually does best when laid down so as to sprout from the side.
+This will give from three to four hundred plants to the acre.</p>
+
+<p>‘For the first year or two, cassada, cotton, pepper, ginger,
+corn, arrowroot, sugar-cane, or some other crop, should be grown
+with it.</p>
+
+<p>‘The third year will give seven suckers to each plant, which
+will make 2400 to 2800 stalks, with as many bunches of delicious,
+healthy, nutritious fruit. This gathered when fully ripe may be
+easily preserved for food or export. In England it takes the place
+of dried apple, and commands a price that will richly pay the
+farmer all the labour of cultivation and curing for market.</p>
+
+<p>‘The process of drying is simple. The ripe fruit is laid in the
+hot sun on mats elevated from the ground. After it becomes wilted
+it is taken from the skin and replaced upon the mats till dry, when
+it is coated with sugar, like figs. This process might be shortened
+by kiln-drying.</p>
+
+<p>‘The fruit when full grown, before the process of ripening
+commences, is very rich in starch, and when dried and ground makes
+an excellent meal. To make plantain-meal the plantain must be
+gathered when full grown. The skins must be removed with a
+bamboo-knife, so as not to discolour the fruit. Then cut in thin
+slices and dry in the sun, or on a kiln, which is better. When
+brittle grind into meal.</p>
+
+<p>‘The fact that the fruit for home consumption or the foreign
+market will richly pay for cultivation is an item of importance.
+For this purpose is the plantain chiefly raised. The stalk is by
+many regarded valueless. Yet it is by the addition of a little
+labour worth 3<em>d.</em> a stalk.</p>
+
+<p>‘An acre of well-matured thrifty plants will produce 6000 lbs.
+of fibre, at a cost in labour of 3<em>l.</em> per ton; and with an
+additional cost of 7<em>l.</em> per ton may be placed in an English
+market.</p>
+
+<p>‘Plantain-fibre, after patient, varied, and repeated experiment,
+has been proved to be equal to hemp for all the purposes of
+cordage, and now commands the same price as good hemp, say from
+30<em>l.</em> to 35<em>l.</em> per ton, giving a clear profit to
+the grower of more than 20<em>l.</em> the ton.</p>
+
+<p>‘To convert the stalk into fibre, it is cut into lengths of
+three feet long and quartered. This should be done as quick as may
+be, so as not to black the fibre with the iron instrument used in
+cutting.</p>
+
+<p>‘Furnished with a mill like a horizontal sugar-mill, having wood
+rollers four feet long and one foot in diameter, turned by
+horse-power, the quartered stalks are passed between the rollers
+longitudinally so as not to stain the fibre. Then the crushed
+stalks are washed thoroughly (which process separates the fibre
+from the pulpy matter of the stalks), and the fibre is hung on
+poles under a shade to dry. The sun discolours it.</p>
+
+<p>‘When dry, it is combed or hackled, as flax or hemp, when it is
+fit for the market.</p>
+
+<p>‘The tow or waste from the combing is beaten and prepared as
+half-stuff for paper at a cost of about 8<em>l.</em> per ton, and
+is worth as much as linen rags for paper, say from 16<em>l.</em> to
+20<em>l.</em> per ton.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45"><span class=
+"label">[45]</span></a>In Fernandian ‘Bube’ means a man, and ‘E
+Bube!’ is an address as favourite as the Spanish Hombre. Hence
+strangers undeservedly called the race ‘Booby.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46"><span class=
+"label">[46]</span></a>The Dictionary of the Isubu language informs
+us that these charms, of which there are many with distinct names,
+are worn ‘to keep off evil spirits.’ As I have repeatedly
+explained, they are worn to keep them in, and they hinder them from
+wandering about doing harm, as the seal of Suleyman prevented the
+Jinn from leaving his prison-pit.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47"><span class=
+"label">[47]</span></a>So Garcie du Jardin says that certain
+American Indians placed snuff and pills of lime ‘<em>entre la lèvre
+de dessous et les dents</em>;’ in fact, where it most excites the
+salivary glands. Like the coffee-balls eaten by the Gallas of South
+Abyssinia, it prevents thirst and fatigue. These people have none
+of the succedanea for tobacco used by different wild
+races—potato-leaves, datura, solanum, hyoscyamus, belladonna,
+&amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48"><span class=
+"label">[48]</span></a>More correctly 23,420 feet: the distances
+were taped on my return. In <a href="#app6">Appendix VI.</a> I have
+given the elements of our observations for each altitude, which
+were calculated by Mr. George, of the Royal Geographical
+Society.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49"><span class=
+"label">[49]</span></a>This must not be confounded with Abo at the
+head of the Nigerian Delta. It is described as a congeries of
+townlets, like Abeokuta, under a powerful king, containing some
+25,000 inhabitants, and having a radius of 4 miles: its direct
+distance from this point might be 45 miles. It is most easily
+reached by the ‘Yabiang’ water, a western influent of the Madiba ma
+Dualla or Camaroons Creek, and from the highest factory in the
+river it is distant 29 miles, including 4 of walking. In 1841
+Captain Allen attempted to visit it, but failed. In 1849 Messrs.
+Saker and Pinnock succeeded; they were robbed, however, by the
+Yabiangs, at the instance of the Camaroons people, and escaped only
+with their lives.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50"><span class=
+"label">[50]</span></a>There is another settlement of the same name
+behind Mount Henry. I was unable to discover the exact meanings of
+this and other terms, but conjectured from analogy with other wild
+parts of Africa that they are the names of districts, not of
+chiefs, tribes, or villages.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51"><span class=
+"label">[51]</span></a>The head of tobacco, here worth about
+6<em>d.</em>, contains from ten to twelve leaves.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52"><span class=
+"label">[52]</span></a>The Galium aparine, a small rubiaceous
+plant, will vex us in high altitudes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53"><span class=
+"label">[53]</span></a>‘Little things’ here means matchets and
+mirrors, kerchiefs and blue baft, rum and tobacco. The fathom of
+cloth is also equal to 1<em>s.</em> At Fernando Po the musket costs
+15<em>s.</em></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54"><span class=
+"label">[54]</span></a>40,720 feet along the very winding path.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55"><span class=
+"label">[55]</span></a>The shape was unknown to me; I found it,
+however, figured and described in the Muata Cazmbe of Captain
+Gamitto.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56"><span class=
+"label">[56]</span></a>This hoop shows the connection of the
+Fernandian ‘Bube’ with the coast tribes opposite. Other races, like
+the Krumen, ignore such means of ascent, and fell the tree.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57"><span class=
+"label">[57]</span></a>The bush-dog is I believe a small hyæna. The
+Krumen have a tradition that he and the house-dog are brothers. The
+latter preferred to the forest the society of man and the comforts
+of the hut, whilst the former, ever wandering over the hills, calls
+plaintively upon his relation to supply him with fire.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58"><span class=
+"label">[58]</span></a>Boxes are always bad, but botanists cannot
+do without them. M. Mann had seven tin cases, 20 inches long by 17
+broad and 15 deep—about one-third less would have been better—and
+they were very heavy, containing wire-frames for India,
+packing-paper, and stout brown paper for drying specimens.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59"><span class=
+"label">[59]</span></a>Measured by tape along the road 6200
+feet.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60"><span class=
+"label">[60]</span></a>When returning I observed that all the fruit
+had disappeared.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61"><span class=
+"label">[61]</span></a>According to Dr. James Hunt
+(‘Acclimatization of Man’) the European cannot live at a great
+elevation for any length of time in the Northern hemisphere; the
+natives of the Southern can. The highest inhabited spot in Europe
+is the Théodule Pass, between Wallis and Piedmont: it is temporary,
+and only 10,000 feet high; whereas Peruvians thrive permanently at
+7000 to 12,000 feet of altitude. ‘This difference between the North
+and South hemispheres is caused perhaps by the difference in
+attraction at the North pole. In the Northern hemisphere the ascent
+of a high mountain causes a rush of blood to the head, and in the
+Southern there is an attraction of blood to the feet: hence the
+cause of the sickness felt on ascending a mountain in that
+hemisphere.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62"><span class=
+"label">[62]</span></a>For this lava-walking the boots should have
+wooden soles. Mr. Mann completely destroyed two pair in as many
+days. For grass-walking on the upper heights, the Pyrenean
+spartelle, or the Spanish soldiers’ alpargetas, would be best.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63"><span class=
+"label">[63]</span></a>Measured it proved 11,570 feet. The total
+distance from Mapanya to the Black Crater was 20,080 feet, under 4
+miles, and from Black Crater to Victoria 60,800 feet, under 10
+miles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64"><span class=
+"label">[64]</span></a>In such places 30 lbs. should be the maximum
+for fast walking, whereas many of the men carried 40 lbs.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65"><span class=
+"label">[65]</span></a>A specimen of it was sent to the British
+Museum, and described by Dr. Gray, <a href="#app4">Appendix
+IV.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66"><span class=
+"label">[66]</span></a>9594 feet.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span><a id=
+"c03"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">FIRST ASCENT OF PICO GRANDE.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Before</span> dawn on the next
+day, which was ‘Noche Buena,’ we were up and anxious to be doing;
+we had agreed to visit the cone, which had the temporary honour of
+being held the highest of Camaroons. Setting out at 6 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, after a scanty breakfast—what execrable stuff
+that essence of coffee is!—we retraced our steps through the wooded
+gorge, and passed out of the sweet forest into the open, where
+grass occupied the surface between bits of degraded lava. The
+ascent began eastward, up a black slope garnished with thin
+tussocks and rat-holes; here we first saw the beautifully green
+leaves of the Hypericum, whose colour would be a fortune to a dyer,
+and its rich blossoms, which at a distance resemble yellow
+dog-roses.<a id="FNanchor_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67" class=
+"fnanchor">[67]</a> The appearance of the hills and
+craters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> all changed
+so much that M. Mann, who already showed signs of indisposition,
+asked his Kruboys ‘where dem glass ting (<em>i.e.</em> the
+thermometers) lib?’ and a ‘no sabby’ was the only reply. We saw
+kites, a few violets, and large footprints, apparently of kudu,
+dating from the last rains: during the ‘dries’ the beasts are
+driven by thirst into the lower forests. But one deer was seen in
+this region; huntsmen are common; there are remains of huts near
+our camp, and about three quarters of a mile to the north-west are
+caverns where freshly plucked leaves show the presence of man. We
+crossed sundry Devil’s Backbones, and a path spanning the mountains
+from north-east to west. From the depth to which the path was worn,
+it was probably a regular line of communication for the people.</p>
+
+<p>At 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we reached the foot of a tall
+sugarloaf, conspicuous in this direction—not from the north—by the
+symmetry of its conformation, perfect amongst the tossed and
+truncated forms around. After halting for a few minutes in a
+tree-grown cavity at the base, where water sinks, and where we
+found a souvenir in the ‘forget-me-not’—the myosotis, which the
+French prettily call <em>plus je te vois, plus je t’aime</em>,—and
+a fine leucothoë, we began the ascent with long elbows
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> the north-east
+and the north-west. On the occidental slope, defended from the
+wind, were a few wilted inclined trees, so aligned that they
+presented a sharp edge to the gales. The surface was the usual dark
+vegetable mould, which varies from a few inches to a foot in
+thickness, bearing grass already withered to a reddish yellow. Two
+spots showed curious charrings, apparently natural, and overgrown
+with slippery lichens, amongst which were found some deserted
+birds’ nests. The whole aspect was rather that of St. Isabel Peak
+on Fernando Po than anything on the Camaroons.</p>
+
+<p>M. Mann, despite his sufferings, preceded us. Mr. Saker, the
+Judge, and I formed line and ascended together. Thick mists began
+to veil the mighty form of Little Camaroons. We stood now about
+mid-way between it and the summit,<a id="FNanchor_68"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> and we hurried on,
+breathing quickly in the morning air, lest even at this early hour
+the Mongo might begin to ‘smoke his pipe.’ The furious north-easter
+almost took away our breath, and gave our hands a wintry look.
+After an hour, frequent halts included, we passed rapidly along a
+narrow chine winding with gentle ascent over ground flattening out
+to the summit; looked northwards, and stood enchanted with the
+grandeur and the novelty of the view.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>A wondrous
+confusion reigned around; a volcanic perspective of <em>Pays
+brûlé</em> which forced back thought through myriads of years, to
+the time when all was a desolating flood and a sheet of ‘whirling,
+roaring, bursting, blasting, thundering flames.’ One glance at the
+immediate van-ground, a long grassy shelf, ribbed with black, and
+further still where an immense circle of volumed white cloud,
+iridized by the sun, formed a setting of opal for the tumbled mass
+of ‘parasitic’ cones; and on the left hand, vast spillings of black
+lava, a burned ridge, streaked and bordered by the liveliest green.
+Then every eye turned northwards, where clear and distinct,—too
+near Heaven it appeared for any fleck of mist,—calm in the
+hurlyburly around, and dwarfing with its giant proportions all the
+subject mountains, rose in dark blue profile the grand Presence of
+the Peak.</p>
+
+<p>When our nerves had recovered their tranquil tone, we proceeded
+to use glasses. Even the naked eye could see that the vertex of the
+cone had, like Etna, two distinct summits, which at this distance
+presented a considerable angle. That to the right was named by
+acclamation Victoria; that to the left, Albert Mountain. At the
+time we were ignorant of the melancholy event which but two days
+before had plunged a whole nation into mourning. The deep metallic
+blue that invested Pico Grande, compared<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_137">[137]</span> with the green-brown hue of the nearer
+mountain parallels, suggested the idea that a chasm separated fore
+from background. Happily for us, it was not so.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure id="i5" class="iw1"><a href="images/i5_large.jpg"><img src=
+'images/i5.jpg' alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp1">VIEW FROM THE TOP OF MOUNT HELEN.</p>
+
+<p class="cpr">Page 136.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the first naming we proceeded to distinguish the others by
+Christian appellations; even strict geographers cannot blame the
+act in a place which has absolutely no terminology; besides which,
+by precising our several points, the bearings and altitudes may be
+subsequently corrected, and future travellers will more easily
+trace out our route. The cone upon which we were standing—it proved
+subsequently most useful as a landmark—was named by Mr. Saker,
+after his wife, ‘Mount Helen.’ I contented myself with a glorious
+mass, looming high in the limpid air to the N.N.W. (magnetic), and
+with similar marital dutifulness called it Mount Isabel.<a id=
+"FNanchor_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>
+The ceremony was concluded with a seemly libation; we could not
+dine here as Britons ought, but we compounded with the assistance
+of the B. P. apparatus a bowl of punch. M. Casella’s policeman’s
+lantern and new zeometer proved useful in the strong wind, when the
+old shaving-pot occupied a long time in collecting wood and
+charring it, to get rid of the smoke.<a id=
+"FNanchor_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a>
+The extreme difference<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_138">[138]</span> between the two results, after five
+readings, was only 0·6, and the mean 0·5. The summit of Mount Helen
+was found to be 9223 to 9383 feet, and the base of the cone was
+7932 feet above sea-level.</p>
+
+<p>Thus exhilarated by our morning’s work we prepared at 10
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> to descend the cone, which we
+effected after the fashion of visitors to Vesuvius,—not on our
+feet. An observation from Mount Helen had given the bearing of
+Earthwork Crater, near our camp, W.S.W.; we resolved to follow the
+chord instead of the arc which we had taken during the ascent. At
+the foot of Mount Helen we fell into a weathered lava-bed, which we
+named No. 2. The breadth varies from 100 yards to a mile. It issues
+from a neighbouring crater in a S.E. direction, bending to the S.,
+where, like No. 1, it terminates abruptly; and it is manifestly a
+much newer formation than the field up which we had travelled in
+the earlier morning. It is observable that, though the craters open
+in all directions, the course of the lava-rivers is invariably
+southerly. I leave the consideration to more expert volcanists than
+myself; but may not the violent N. and N.E. gales—the constant
+land-breeze from the cold peaks to the warm sea—that twists the
+trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> upon these
+mountains, have determined the direction of their liquid
+outflow?</p>
+
+<p>Our road lay along a crater breached on the S.E. side, to which
+we gave the name of our friend Judge Calvo; it lay nearly due north
+of Earthwork Crater, and was another landmark. As we flattered
+ourselves that breakfast was near, an ocean of white mist-cloud,
+dense but not dark, overwhelmed us, and we wandered from east to
+west till after a long delay we hit upon a hunter’s trail. This led
+us over deep black gashes in the subsoil lava, and along the steep
+flank of Earthwork Crater into camp. We arrived at 11·45
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, after a walk of nearly six
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas-day was somewhat sad to those who could not
+prevent</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘The busy goste, aye flick’ring to and
+fro,’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">winging her way to far-off regions which the heavy
+clay cannot reach. In such wild scenes, with wilder work before
+them, men are too apt to think regretfully of merry gatherings
+round the Yule log, the <em>leche de almandras</em>, and the
+Christmas-tree, forgetting the inevitable worries of ‘home,’ and
+the pains and penalties of civilization, so terrible to endure
+after the life of liberty in the desert; besides, if we lose the
+revelry at night, do we not also escape the headache next
+morning?</p>
+
+<p>By way of occupation on Christmas-day, in the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> morning I accompanied Mr.
+Saker to the summit of Earthwork Crater. It lies about thirteen
+miles<a id="FNanchor_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71" class=
+"fnanchor">[71]</a> from Victoria, and five from the summit of the
+Peak. It is here a typical formation, so it may be described at
+some length. From a distance it resembles nothing so much as half
+an egg-shell with a broken top; we named it from the regularity of
+its smooth grassy slopes, already reddened by the change of season.
+No glacis, no work of ‘navvies,’ could appear more artificial. It
+is impossible not to see in this shape the hand of Neptune; and we
+conjectured that from Mount Helen to the shore all must have been
+formed in quick rise from a quiet sea—submarine opposed to the
+subaërial above. This, however, must be settled by the presence or
+absence of fossils, such as those which have been discovered on
+Monte Somma. The southern base is clothed with the forest of tall
+trees in which we have pitched our camp. Measured from the bottom
+of the slope, the total height and length are 640 feet, including
+340 feet for the upper or grassy portion. The aneroid showed 162
+feet of direct height.<a id="FNanchor_72"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> The circumference of the
+upper rim is 522 feet, and the periphery of the bowl is complete
+except at the W.S.W., where, broken by a lava-stream
+trending<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span>
+southwards, it assumes from above the shape of a horseshoe. The
+internal depth is one hundred perpendicular feet; it has long
+burned out, and during the rains water sinks in its cup, attracting
+small birds. Three distinct ridges of lava may be traced in the
+inner wall. The highest part of the basin-rim is the N.W., where
+another liquid stream from the N.E., butting up to the crater wall,
+has sliced away the slope into a perpendicular cliff, and has
+circled round a portion of the S.W. base. As in many similar
+formations, the gradual slipping of the side soil under the
+influence of sun and rain has formed a small clean flat margin at
+the base, like a shallow saucer supporting an inverted cup.<a id=
+"FNanchor_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a>
+The Phlegethon once issuing from Earthwork Crater is nearly
+embedded in earth, and partly overgrown with shrubs; there are
+little pitholes and rocks with diminutive ledges, which at times
+must supply the beasts of the wild with drink.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could be more beautiful than the slanting rays of the
+sun, sharply bisecting the inner crater with yellow light, that
+refused to blend with the purple shades below. We stood upon the
+topmost crest and waved our caps, to see if the action would be
+reflected as in the Hartz Mountains—without result as
+at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> Tenerife. The
+summit fully explained the ant-hill-like appearance which the
+highlands wear when viewed from Fernando Po and Ambas Bay. Besides
+the eruptive ‘lapilli’ craters, hidden to the eastward by mist and
+lava-bed, we counted eleven distinct forms in the north, to the
+south nine, and eleven to the south-west—a total of thirty-one,
+within a radius of perhaps two miles, literally undermining the
+whole land. They are of two distinct formations. Those under 6000
+to 7000 feet are montecules, covered with dense forest, but still
+betraying their origin by their conformation: those above that
+altitude are smooth, grassy, regular, and uniform. From this point
+we could distinctly see the half-way platform of Little
+Camaroons.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast Mr. Saker left us for Camaroons River, promising
+to return early the next month. We made up for him a party of six
+armed men, who were directed to bring stores from our depôt at
+Victoria. The child ‘Poor Fellow’ also accompanied him. Five days
+afterwards we heard with pleasure that this first descent, through
+a region which might be called hostile, had been effected without
+accident, except to boots. Mr. Saker descended, at some pain to his
+crural muscles, Lava Bed No. 1 in two hours twenty minutes, not
+including halts, and reached Victoria on the next day. It was not
+the fault of his escort, however,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_143">[143]</span> that the return did not end tragically.
+Krumen have no relish for the ‘bitter sweets of war.’ Passing the
+outlying houses of Mapanya at early dawn, the party was heard by an
+old man, who challenged them, and, receiving no answer, shouted for
+help. Off at the sound like startled deer went my acting head-man,
+a great burly fellow called Tom Bushman, followed by Messrs.
+Seabreeze, Nyanyi, and others—they were subsequently punished by
+half rations—nor did they stop till they had reached the Mission
+Station, and had reported that, after a deadly fight, the white man
+had been slain, and the rest of his escort made prisoners. Mrs.
+Saker, knowing the men, was incredulous. Mr. Johnson at once sent a
+message to King William of Bimbia, after which he and Mr. Pinnock
+started up the hill. After a ten minutes’ walk they met Mr. Saker
+coming towards them. He had suffered no damage beyond losing his
+way for a couple of miles, and paying a head of tobacco for
+guidance to a Bushman. The letter containing these details further
+informed us that our late companion had found a direct path from
+Mapanya to Bosumbo, and that the down-journey from our camp to
+Victoria could be made in twelve hours, allowing two hours for the
+Lava Bed No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>We did our best to honour Christmas Day. Kind Mrs. Saker had
+given us a plum-pudding, which fared badly in the encounter, and we
+had beef, but a trifle<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_144">[144]</span> salt. A forest of Yule logs lay around us—I
+wished it had been my property within easy carriage of Paris—and a
+giant fire lighted up the camp. We spent a merry evening, telling
+old tales around our hearth, and, cognac being deficient, we
+roughed it on a bowl of anizado. During my wanderings I had found
+an as yet undetermined species of wild mint, whose flavour when
+bruised is tolerable,<a id="FNanchor_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74"
+class="fnanchor">[74]</a> and we pronounced the julep to be far
+from unpalatable. At this venerable season, when good works as well
+as good living are expected from us, I contribute my quotum by
+offering to my English fellow-countrymen the following recipe for a
+mint beverage à la Virginie:—</p>
+
+<div class="quote">
+<p class="center"><em>Recipe.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>Take of mint quant. suff.; soak in brandy or other spirit for
+fifteen minutes; sweeten according to taste. Cool the minted liquor
+with smashed ice. Shake till the mixture is homogeneous. Add a
+sprig for ‘the garden,’—and imbibe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before undertaking other expeditions we resolved to re-form the
+camp, and thus employed the whole 26th of December. The Krumen were
+banished to a certain distance, where their brawling voices and
+horseplay could not offend, and were ordered to bring in daily a
+certain amount of firewood, under penalty of<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_145">[145]</span> ‘no chop.’ The Judge and I sallied out
+pick and axe in hand. We improved our Acis, Mann’s Spring, by
+clearing away the turf, deepening the basin, and embanking the
+precious lymph: after half an hour the Naiad of the rill would not
+have known her own home. Then the encampment was provided with a
+variety of comforts. Herbaceous stalks and young branches compacted
+with ‘tie-tie,’ or the tender withies of the clematis and various
+barks—rope is never wanted in an African forest—formed chairs and
+fauteuils, couches, bedsteads, tables, and benches, a platform for
+drying botanical specimens, a canopy to shelter us from the sun,
+sleeping boothies, and a store hut. All was rural in the extreme,
+but the general appearance was decidedly cosy. We looked like
+anything but ‘castaways on a lee-shore.’ That our <em>coin du
+feu</em> might be the more comfortable at night, the Judge
+constructed a Turkish lantern, a cylinder of red cloth round a
+framework of splinters, and the effect was a pleasant glowing
+light. We cut away the boughs which might be brought down upon our
+heads by violent winds, the wild squalls, and fierce puffs, here as
+common as on the Peak of Tenerife, and had no reason afterwards to
+regret this precaution. A Pelourinho, or whipping-post, was erected
+<em>in terrorem</em>. Finally, we cleared decent entrances, and we
+laid down tasks for lazy men to be done each day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span>M. Mann was
+still suffering; he feared an attack of dysentery, ever risky at
+these altitudes. The internal cold had disappeared before the usual
+adhibitions—a little cognac internally, and externally plenty of
+flannel. He was not, however, well enough to walk: the Judge and I
+therefore resolved to make a reconnaissance of Pico Grande, and to
+place a store of water-breakers on the way in readiness for a
+general expedition to the summit.</p>
+
+<p>After a fine night, when grave-like silence was interrupted only
+by the wind thundering at times over our heads, and bringing down
+dry twigs upon our dormitories, causing the trees to creek and
+groan—a sad sound in the forest during storms—we arose at 5·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> on Friday, the 27th December, and
+prepared for the undertaking. The party consisted of Judge Calvo
+and myself: three Krumen—Messrs. Two-Glass, Kharabu, and Jack
+Brass—carried water-breakers and provaunt; whilst ‘King Eyo,’ who
+claimed all the right royal to do wrong, or to do nothing, brought
+up the rear. The dawn was cloudless, windless, and clear, as the
+last night’s Venus—we used to watch her as one would a
+barometer—had promised; the morning haze was cool and pleasant; and
+we enjoyed the sun as we wound along the clover-grown sides of
+Earthwork and Calvo Craters, and up the rugged Lava Bed No. 2. The
+distance was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> about
+a mile and a quarter, yet it was two hours before we threw
+ourselves down to rest under the trees at the sheltered western
+foot of Mount Helen—we found it necessary to treat the Krumen as
+the Chinamen do their ducks—beat the last that enters the
+boat-house—and at 8·45 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> the
+thermometer in the grass at the halting-place showed 57° Fah.</p>
+
+<p>Resuming our way after fifteen minutes’ stretch, we entered upon
+the grassy and rocky mountain-slope separating us from Mount
+Isabel. Having crossed by a natural bridge a small deep and narrow
+crevasse, whose sides were overgrown with vegetation, we turned
+northwards, wound over three distinct folds of hill, where a few
+dry herbaceous plants lingered, and where the bright hypericum
+already showed a stunted growth. Sign of deer was numerous: not a
+quadruped, however, large or small, met our eyes. We thought that
+we had detected a village at a distance, but it proved a heap of
+rocks. Traces of natives, however, showed here and there in a
+Robinson Crusoe-like footstep and in sundry fireplaces. Leaving on
+the right a jagged broken cone, crowning an earthwork-like eminence
+which I called Mount Selim, and on the left four montecules of the
+usual broken-egg shape, we ascended a steep outlying cone. At the
+summit, about half-way up Mount Isabel, we found a sheltered
+terrepleine, which we<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_148">[148]</span> judged fitted for a water depôt, and we sat
+down to breakfast and to a draught of the carminative anizado. The
+distance was about a mile and a half, and the hour 10 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span></p>
+
+<p>From the apex of the sub-range, looking back, we could have
+enjoyed a grand panorama of craters, sweeping in vast semicircle.
+Northwards, however was a spectacle that absorbed all our
+attention. Straight before us rose in ineffable majesty those
+glorious peaks, tangible, as it were, in the morning æther, high
+towering over all the subject land and dwarfing the craters and
+cones below. No chasm separated us from them. Beyond the base of
+Mount Isabel the ground swelled gently upwards to the feet of the
+King of all the Cones. I marked at once our path,—a broad
+meandering lava-bed, which had been confined to certain limits by
+dwarf spiracles dotted on both sides. The colour of Pico Grande’s
+radial lines was peculiar. A faint, dull green seemed to streak the
+coal-coloured eastern slopes, which were far less abrupt than the
+western; a long perpendicular sweep of blue parted most sensibly
+Victoria from Albert Mountain; and whilst the latter showed a
+distinct but small crater, the former was beautified with
+descending stripes of red and yellow—remnants of once-glowing
+heat—falling from a cliff or scaur a few yards below its apex, and
+the foreground wore its usual coating of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_149">[149]</span> red-yellow grasses. Nothing more vivid and
+pure than the lights, nothing darker and more transparent than the
+shadows.</p>
+
+<p>I seized the Judge’s arm, and pointed to the colossus, and swore
+that we would play Jack the Giant-Killer that day. He meekly shook
+his head, opined that we would do our best, and referred me to my
+breakfast, which stuck in my throat.</p>
+
+<p>Our Kruboys had shown even more than usual laziness, and King
+Eyo, who carried only a gun, usually loitered half a mile behind.
+The party was weeded by leaving the latter and Two-Glass, a noted
+shirker, to supervise the remainder of our day’s provision. The
+breakers intended for the future expedition were deposited in a
+safe place, and at 10·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we set out
+with uncommon elation of spirits, ‘Excelsior!’ being now the word.
+Mountain-climbing was now over, and with it the exhilaration which
+the succession of distant obstacles to be overcome excites; but was
+not Pico Grande before us?</p>
+
+<p>The path ran along the steep side of a kind of gate, formed by
+two cones with a little hollow between, and we were forced to tread
+on the edges of our feet. After a quarter of an hour we had passed
+the right-hand staple, and descended by a gentle slope, not
+destitute of pit-holes, into a shallow gorge that screened us from
+the strong north-easter. Hence we<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_150">[150]</span> debouched upon the bed of lava which we had
+sighted from Mount Isabel, and named it No. 3. From this position
+we could better distinguish its source,—a crater on the left or
+westward of the great cone. It flows from north-east to south-west,
+bending to due south. Striking the end of the stream, which here
+has been suddenly arrested by a rise of ground, we followed the
+smoothly bevelled rim of a hill—an edging like the ‘ice-foot’ of
+the Polar regions—on the proper right, and then struck across the
+bed towards another buttress on the left of the old
+<em>coulée</em>. We afterwards regretted having preferred this
+course, thinking that we might have saved ourselves distance and
+toil by taking the other bank. Subsequent experience, however,
+proved the contrary. The passage occupied half an hour. We spent
+the first twenty minutes walking 800 feet over an erupted matter
+overgrown with dry green moss, and crumbling like pumice<a id=
+"FNanchor_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a>
+beneath the tread. The last 400 feet lay over a ridgy bed of ruddy
+black clinker, hairy with burnt cryptogams; its detached stones,
+without intermediate débris, sharp-angled and sun-polished, made
+progress slow and painful. The contrast of this hard, dark,
+unweatherworn vein with the spongy green coating was curious; and I
+noticed in the different gashes, sections,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_151">[151]</span> and chasms formed by unequal cooling and
+floods, that the former everywhere underlies the latter after a
+depth of three or four feet. Judging from the position, both have
+been produced by the same outflow, which, however, could not have
+been the work of a very remote epoch.</p>
+
+<p>At 11·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, after walking about a
+mile and three-quarters, we reached the cone on the proper left of
+the stream, wound along its edge, which was clean cut as if
+smoothed by art, and encumbered by strong, thick tussocks, which it
+would be a misnomer to call grass. The Great Peak was sensibly
+neared,—a circumstance which not a little increased our
+<em>élan</em>. After a ten minutes’ walk we found ourselves again
+condemned to cross, at right angles too, the frontal ridges of the
+same lava-bed to the north-east, where, being higher up, it was
+more broken but narrower. The features were the same,—old and
+green, new and black.</p>
+
+<p>This passage led us to what appeared two grassy cones outlying
+the base of the Pico Grande. In a little hollow at the foot of the
+nearest we found a clump of shrubby trees, which was marked out as
+the resting-place of the future expedition. They rose in front of
+us with a central depression, and, not knowing that they were
+separated from the Peak with which they seemed to be connected, we
+judged it advisable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>
+to ascend the hollow between them. The incline was unusually steep,
+and the surface disconnected tussocks of the <i>Deschampia
+cæspitosa</i>, a graminea, which forms masses of three feet
+diameter and two feet high, and which sinks a cubit beneath the
+tread; its hard blades sound in the wind like the flow of water,
+and its stiff points pierce the clothes like thorns. In little
+patches there were finely-ground coal-black scoriæ, scorching in
+the sunbeams, and raising the heat to Black Hole temperature. The
+ground sounded hollow under the tread, but I listened vainly for
+‘Bramidos.’ Having reached the summit, we found that the supposed
+two cones were but the double head concealing the rim of a
+beautifully formed crater, an inverted cone, circular, and with
+narrow edge-like lip, about 300 feet in circumference. The regular
+internal slope shelving down from the aperture was clothed like the
+external, with grass, to the very floor, which has a jetty pavement
+of fragmentary lava. I called it Mount Milnes, after a very good
+friend.</p>
+
+<p>After that waste of labour in the merciless rays of the flaming
+sun—we could easily have rounded this abutment of the Peak—we
+allowed ourselves a quarter of an hour’s rest, and abandoned
+ourselves to the charm of the situation. We were the first
+Europeans certainly, perhaps the first men, who have ever stood
+within gunshot of that tall solitary pile.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_153">[153]</span> We made eternal silence vocal with a
+cheer,—there was no one to deride our demonstrativeness.</p>
+
+<p>A nearer scrutiny explained some points which we had
+misunderstood from afar. The main Peak was entirely isolated, with
+a long sloping chine on our right (eastward), and a more abrupt
+descent in front and on the left. The faint green hue of the former
+was produced by a scanty crusting of lichen. The long sweep of blue
+was a slide—a herbless rift—of fine black comminuted cinder; and
+the red and yellow scaurs were fire-tinged scoriæ. The long eastern
+shoulder would have been the easiest, the difficult loose slide of
+lava-dust the shortest. I preferred a <em>mezzo termine</em>, and
+chose a ridgelet running up Victoria Mountain.</p>
+
+<p>At 1 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we addressed ourselves to the
+task of walking round the crater of Mount Milnes. Here, however,
+the Judge stopped; having slightly sprained his right ankle, he
+decided, looking at the task before him, that it was beyond his
+powers; and advised me to reserve it for another day. Subsequences
+almost made me regret that I had not followed his counsel. But on
+second thoughts—No! To be first in such matters is everything; to
+be second, nothing. Besides, the announcement made to us at Mapanya
+had rendered the affair a kind of steeple-chase; there was perhaps
+a little ‘<em>malice</em>’ in my wish to win.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>Descending the
+tufted cone, between which and the great Peak there was no débris,
+I began to breast the ascent. Jack Brass, who carried my warm
+clothing, had sat down in some secluded spot where he was doubtless
+dozing in the warm midday sun, and Kharabu only remained to
+accompany me. The good Judge lent me his flask of spirits and
+water: having detected my companion neatly ‘tiefing’ the contents,
+I took the bottle under my especial charge; and twice when
+Kharabu’s glazed eyes and cracked lips showed symptoms of
+defaillance, it served to keep him alive. These Krumen are not
+hill-men. Their iron bones and leathery muscles are not to be tired
+with rowing and paddling, but on the mountain they soon weary.</p>
+
+<p>I first made a long elbow towards an isolated clump of basaltic
+<em>arêtes</em> springing from the lava and pumice slope on the
+left. We will call them ‘Half-way Rocks.’ The walking was easy
+enough, and the angle gentle; but no lava-stream here existing, and
+the small cinders slipping down with the foot, it was somewhat
+fatiguing. From these little ‘Grands Mulets’ I turned to the right,
+and, keeping the topmost red and yellow scaur in sight, followed
+the ragged edge of a small ridge, whose mossy lava-lumps afforded
+hold to the tread. The only remarkable feature of the ascent was a
+sprinkling of coarse quartzose stone, which we had not seen
+elsewhere. At times the all-fours position<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_155">[155]</span> became preferable to the usual and more
+dignified; but in presence of such a sun as then glowed upon us,
+with far fiercer radiation than below, I had no shame in
+prostrating myself.<a id="FNanchor_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76"
+class="fnanchor">[76]</a> As we neared the summit the steepness and
+looseness of the material was increasing; Kharabu sank down nearly
+fainting from the sun’s arrowy beams, and was allowed to remain
+behind. At 1·30 I stood upon the summit of the Peak, where new and
+unexpected objects met my sight.</p>
+
+<p>Victoria Mountain now proved to be the shell of a huge ‘double
+crater,’ opening to the south-eastward, where a tremendous torrent
+of fire had broken down the weaker wall. The whole interior and its
+accessible breach now lay before me, plunging sheer in vertical
+cliff. The depth of the bowl may be 250 feet; the total diameter of
+the two, which are separated by a rough partition of lava, 1000
+feet. The interior slope is a highly irregular cliff, which drops
+horizontally, streaked and ribboned with igneous matter, red and
+yellow, whose bands of colour indicate horizontal stratification,
+and comminuted scoriæ standing<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_156">[156]</span> at an angle of 45°. Not a blade of grass,
+not a thread of moss breaks the gloom of the Plutonic pit, which is
+as black as Erebus, except where the fire has painted it red and
+yellow. To the north-west appeared a ridge overtopping the rest of
+the two-headed cone which we had called Albert Mountain, and a
+bluff wall or dyke, which I had not time to visit.</p>
+
+<p>To record my claim I heaped up a small cairn of stones, and in
+it placed a fragment from the facetious pages of Mr. Punch, perhaps
+the greatest traveller on record, and certainly one of the
+traveller’s best friends. When Kharabu rejoined me with the B. P.
+apparatus, an attempt was made to boil. But Jack Brass had
+prudently kept with him the blanket intended to shelter the match;
+the furious nor’-easter<a id="FNanchor_77"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a>—it left its mark upon me
+for a fortnight afterwards—charging and eddying round the cone at
+the rate of thirty miles an hour, threatened to sweep us away from
+the lip of the crater’s gap like flies; and after a few attempts I
+desisted, promising myself success at another and more favourable
+time.</p>
+
+<p>In such doings, 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> had sped. There
+was a reverse to the medal, Success—the prospect of a
+night<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span> to be spent
+in the open; and the doctrine of inevitable Compensation taught me
+to expect some evil, which came, however, in another form. The
+ascent had occupied seven hours, and there remained barely four
+till sunset, for five miles to camp. I tried again the Vesuvian
+style of descent, and narrowly escaped, so loose is the surface,
+gaining a momentum which would have dashed me against the boulders
+that studded the base. Under the black cinders lies a stratum of
+grey ‘<em>ceneri</em>,’ which looks white by contrast; at the base
+of the cone our line of descent appeared a thin glistening thread.
+When half-way down, the Judge waved a signal from Mount Milnes for
+me to take the western side of the lava-bed, which we had twice
+crossed on the up-march. I preferred, however, encountering known
+rather than unknown troubles. The descent of the Great Peak
+occupied thirty minutes.</p>
+
+<p>A few words will describe the hurry homewards over the dry and
+weary land. Skulking Jack Brass was found snugly curled up in a
+sunny form on a hillside, and received a present which he will not
+forget. He appeared to be terribly lame, but when time pressed he
+forgot all his ailments, and devanced the rest of the party.
+Arrived at Mount Isabel, we awoke King Eyo, who apparently had been
+hybernating ever since; loaded Two-Glass, and rested ten minutes; a
+wind was blowing that shrank the mercury to 40°,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> and made our extremities feel
+deadly cold. A cloud-bank like a dust haze, 20° deep, was all we
+could see in the west, and, as we passed our beacon and guide,
+Mount Helen,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">‘The sun’s rim dipp’d, the stars rush’d
+out,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">&nbsp;At one stride came the dark,’</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">and utter darkness, too, before 7 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> It is bad enough to be benighted on a rutty
+English road. What was it here with a surface of grass tussocks and
+lava-blocks, deep falls and jagged crevasses? We lighted the
+wax-ends used for the B. P. They soon burned out, and what was
+worse they melted the solder of the water-cup. After a heavy fall
+or two, and shocks enough to break a Town man’s tendon Achilles, or
+to rupture his diaphragm, we were compelled to halt. The Kru-cry,
+however, brought a response, and presently we saw firesticks—the
+excellent Selim being as usual to the fore—dancing in the darkness
+like Will-o’-the-wisps. The cold night-wind threatening pleurisy
+kept us moving till we were able to reach camp. We entered at 8·30
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, after full twelve hours occupied in
+getting over ten miles. The Krumen and Eyo all arrived safely, and
+Kharabu, besides a promise from his master, received a present of
+cloth in consideration of his good conduct. The day of hard work
+was followed by a wakeful night, caused by cramp and<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> spasmodic contractions of the
+lower limbs;<a id="FNanchor_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78" class=
+"fnanchor">[78]</a>—already retribution had begun.</p>
+
+<p>I was astonished by the extreme regularity of the mountain, and
+by the almost complete absence of those accidents of ground which
+distinguish Vesuvius, Etna, Stromboli, Pico de Teyde, Popocatapetl,
+and other volcanoes. Considering the magnitude of the pyramid, its
+surface is nearly as smooth as it can be up to the crowning vent.
+Nor is it, as will afterwards appear, an ‘epitome of globe
+vegetation,’ Alpine types being very rare; whilst the absence of
+snow deprives it of glaciers, couloirs, debâcles, and moraines,
+Rigi Kulms, and Monte Rosas. I remarked, however, with pleasure
+that there were no large watercourses in the upper regions, showing
+the rains to be scanty; if heavy, meteoric denudation would have
+stripped the cones of their thin coating of soil. In many places,
+also,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> water,
+confined by higher ground, sinks; these might be converted into
+tanks, as in Persia and Sindh.</p>
+
+<p>The specimens forwarded to the Geological Museum proved to be
+all of volcanic origin; scoriæ, lavas, bombs, trachytic traps,
+sands apparently with an admixture of magnetic iron, and a few
+crystals of augite and olivine.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning the travellers were distinguished by the looped
+and windowed raggedness of their dress, and by hobbling about like
+cheap ‘screws’ after a long hunting-day. Beyond sun and wind-burned
+hands and face, my companion suffered nothing, and speedily
+recovered from his sprain. But in an evil hour I had set out in a
+pair of loose waterproof boots, which began by softening and ended
+by half-flaying the feet. It was a spectacle next morning when they
+were removed. This is the fourth recurrence of a similar annoyance,
+the three others having happened at Meccah, at Harar, and on the
+hills of Usumbara. Caustic and diachylum were both wanting for some
+time, till at last a little of the latter was brought up from the
+lowlands. Presently supervened another African consequence of cold,
+wet, and over-exertion—swollen feet. To this also I had been a
+martyr in the Eastern region. In the lowlands the disease is
+dangerous; it may last three months, and end in the worst
+consequences of inflammation—ulcerations that cripple
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> limb. It has
+little acute suffering. This absence of pain is typical of African
+disease, as anæsthetic death is of India—in both places the
+exhaustion of nervous energy may be the cause—and when feeling
+comes on recovery approaches. The natives, who are equally ignorant
+of Dr. Allopath’s powder and Dr. Homœopath’s pill, treat it with
+hydropathic bandages. I first tried arnica plaster, in the absence
+of diachylum, and then dressings of rum and water, in the want of
+spirits of wine.<a id="FNanchor_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79"
+class="fnanchor">[79]</a> My case concluded with a little ague and
+fever, and I was unable to walk for a week, a fortnight, a month,
+thus losing thirty days out of forty-six. Thus the exultation of
+the day was succeeded by the depression of the morrow, and unusual
+pleasure brought its own penalty.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc03">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67"><span class=
+"label">[67]</span></a>This Hypericum (angustifolium) is described
+as one of the links between Fernando Po, Camaroons, Abyssinia, and
+Bourbon: it is common on the Peak of Tenerife, above 2000 feet
+high, and it ranges on these hills between 7000 and 10,000 feet
+above sea-level, where, however, it dwindles to a shrub. The
+smaller stems are as good as rose or cherry sticks for pipes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68"><span class=
+"label">[68]</span></a>In the chart the direct distance between the
+two peaks is nine miles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69"><span class=
+"label">[69]</span></a>Others were named Mount Emily, bearing
+N.N.E. ¼ E., and Mount Eliza (one of the three sisters), bearing S.
+by E.; but they were not in the line of road.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70"><span class=
+"label">[70]</span></a>M. Casella’s instrument, which I believe is
+now greatly improved, was a policeman’s lantern, with the
+thermometer protruding from the side of the water-cup. It had two
+great disadvantages, the fragility of the tube and the effect of
+the wind upon the mercury. The cup, moreover, was soldered instead
+of being made of block tin.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71"><span class=
+"label">[71]</span></a>Measured 70,394 feet.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72"><span class=
+"label">[72]</span></a>Little importance can be attached to an
+aneroid observation at this altitude.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73"><span class=
+"label">[73]</span></a>This is on a small scale the Cañada of the
+Tenerife Peak, a flat strip of ground, more or less broad, silted
+up with fine pumice.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74"><span class=
+"label">[74]</span></a>The same species flourishes in the upper
+heights of Fernando Po, and there is another which grows in the
+lowlands.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75"><span class=
+"label">[75]</span></a>Neither here, however, nor elsewhere, did we
+find pumice properly so called.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76"><span class=
+"label">[76]</span></a>Solar exposure or radiation is the opposite
+of temperature. On clear days, when the latter is lowest in the
+shade the former is highest, and <em>vice versâ</em>. Every
+traveller has felt this, and yet the presence of snow, which merely
+proves its non-conducting powers upon the highest mountains, has
+given rise to the popular idea that the nearer we approach the sun
+the less heat we feel.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77"><span class=
+"label">[77]</span></a>The wind, despite the greater rarity of the
+air, blows with much greater violence at 13,000 than at 5000 feet
+high. This increase of velocity with height is probably due to our
+approaching the centre of the aërial current.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78"><span class=
+"label">[78]</span></a>This African plague is accounted for by the
+faculty in various ways. Dr. Clarke of Sierra Leone attributes it
+to the presence of acrid substances internally, whereas it is most
+frequent ‘upon an empty stomach.’ Others derive it from inequality
+of evaporation or radiation from the body, from derangement of the
+liver, from bad circulation, and from cold producing undue
+contraction of the muscles. As usual with the obscure nervous
+disorders, where the scientific can do little, every one has a
+remedy of his or her own. I have been recommended to sleep with a
+tub of cold water under the bed, to hold a mutton-bone in the right
+hand, to stand and stamp when unable to move, and to kick out with
+the heel when the limb is as rigid as wood. A tight ligature above
+the afflicted part, like the Arab Hibas, sometimes removes extreme
+pain. The only remedy, however, is thoroughly to heat the offending
+member by spirit frictions, hot foot-baths, and swathes of
+flannel.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79"><span class=
+"label">[79]</span></a>The maximum proportions are one part of
+spirits to five of cold water. Mr. Saker, whose prescription it is,
+obtained the former by two distillations from trade rum, of which a
+gallon produced about one quart of rectified alcohol, the rest
+being water, and a residuum too offensive and poisonous to be
+endured. A pleasant offering of Europe to her sister Africa!</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span><a id=
+"c04"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">SUBSEQUENT ASCENTS BY MESSRS. CALVO, SAKER, AND
+MANN.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">For</span> a week we led a
+tranquil life, free from the care of cities, and beyond reach of
+the barbarous Bakwiri, in this Paradise of wildernesses. ‘O Corte,
+O Cortejo,’ says the Spanish proverb; it speaks the truth, like
+Sancho Panza. There are no azure fiends here. Even the Judge felt
+no disposition to ‘caer la paletilla.’<a id=
+"FNanchor_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>
+Not a soul approached us; the natives feared a rough reception by
+day from white men, who were doubtless collecting the vast stores
+of cloth with which the mountains are supposed to be covered;<a id=
+"FNanchor_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>
+and at night<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> the
+jungle is not a favourite walk with them. We rose with the sun,
+whose beams, passing through a thicker atmosphere than that of the
+plains, were but faintly warm, comforted ourselves chatting round
+the bright wood-fire, wrote our journals, and, after breakfast at 8
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, proceeded to the business of the
+day. The Judge made sundry excursions, with a view to short cuts.
+M. Mann set out with his wire frames, and returned only to dry his
+specimens, a process which must be repeated every day in these damp
+regions, and which cannot be committed to natives. The Krumen, not
+having been allowed to ‘wax fat and kick,’ and tamed by the
+discipline of the pelourinho, laughed and sang whilst they worked
+at the camp and felled trees. I was experimenting upon the time it
+would take one man to make cultivable ground of an acre of bush—an
+operation at which, as it involves destruction, they appear
+proficients. Selim sallied forth with Black Beggar, the cook,—who
+is also my instructor in the Kru tongue, and a first-rate shot with
+an old rattletrap musket,—in search of specimens of small beasts
+and birds. As the dried nests showed, the season of nidification
+was passed, and the juveniles were already on the wing. Unhappily,
+our shot was too large; the arsenical soap would not come up from
+Victoria before Mr. Saker, and many of the birds were too young for
+good preservation. The little barbarians<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_164">[164]</span> were so wholly unacquainted with rice that
+when placed upon the ground as bait they paid no attention to it.
+Insects are remarkably scarce at these altitudes, whereas in the
+lowlands every dead tree’s bark contains a swarm. Only two land
+shells were found, and none appeared in the grassy region above the
+woods. Besides the field-rat before alluded to, no fewer than three
+animals new to science were secured, and duly forwarded to the
+British Museum—a mus, a crocidura, an anomalurus, and, the most
+interesting of the series, a ‘beautiful new species’ of Sciurus,
+which Dr. Gray was kind enough to name Sciurus Isabella.<a id=
+"FNanchor_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a>
+Some of these were shot, others were caught in the Kruman trap. A
+fine hawk or eagle haunted us for days, but never trusted himself
+within reach of Black Beggar’s unerring ‘scattering-iron.’ We also
+rigged up a musket in the usual way, baited with a bit of meat
+attached to the trigger. After salt pork had been tried in vain, we
+supplied its place with fresh meat, but met no success. The larger
+animals appear very wary on the mountains. More than once,
+especially at early dawn, antelope were sighted from afar, grazing
+in the open, but never allowed a shot. Selim also saw two hawks
+attacking a deer which was apparently maimed. It made the bush,
+however, before he could reach the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_165">[165]</span> spot. The Krumen were often frightened at
+night by the loud breathing and the laughing of the hyæna close to
+our huts—once they met it during the day, when both parties fled
+precipitately in opposite directions—and lay close under their
+blankets, the only way to invite attack from the cowardly beast.
+After sitting up for several nights, we abandoned the hope of
+securing a skin of this animal, which did not fail, however, to
+strip our springes of their ‘small deer,’ rats and mice.</p>
+
+<p>The forest wore a European look, but with dyes so limpid and
+tender that the eye never wearied in contemplating it. This is here
+the ‘sweet of the year,’ and the deadliest season at Fernando Po
+and upon the coast. The days are those of the Tuscan Apennine in
+spring and autumn; the morning is still, and ‘clear as the eyes of
+Christabel,’ and we hear the distant murmurs of the restless waves
+upon the sounding Æthiopic shore. During the day a mist-cloud,
+which the wind cannot rout, sweeps round Earthwork Crater, bringing
+a refreshing change, and the evenings are mild and serene. At times
+it threatens rain, but the downfall is never more than a few drops.
+The daily wind is the north-easter, not a Trade, the tyrant of the
+sub-tropical seas, but a land breeze, increased I believe, by
+induction through the mountain-tops, and drawn with steady and
+ceaseless force, as if from an<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_166">[166]</span> endless reservoir, towards the regions of
+damp heat below. The return current, or south-wester, was rare;
+perhaps we had not attained its height. The clouds are torn to
+pieces by it, and we sometimes see them travelling, as at Madeira,
+in three several directions; when they meet, fierce and furious are
+the battles. We meet once more at 3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>
+for food, and after that we keep our minds from starving with a
+book, or we ‘imp feathers to the broken wings of Time’ with
+sketching. Thus the day walks on <em>lanei pedes</em>, and after 6
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, when the sun is about to set through
+the lowland mists, we collect round the blazing hearth of basalt
+blocks—there is no better company to the wanderer than a fire<a id=
+"FNanchor_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83" class=
+"fnanchor">[83]</a>—and while away the last hours with chat and
+drink. The deep, dark forest is as silent as the grave, except when
+the screech-owl, most melancholy if not most musical, throws her
+note into the shades, or the hyæna whimpers in the distance,
+ghostly as the shade of some ancient denizen of the wild, or a
+mighty rushing wind from the north sweeps high over the tree tops,
+hardly causing the flame below to flicker. An avenue cut along the
+side of Earthwork Crater shows the Evening Star smiling upon us
+with her soft and lovely light,—I watch her as a lover when she
+sinks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> to rest
+behind the curtain of moonlit cloud. We separate at 8 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, and enjoy sparingly the pleasures of memory,
+which, methinks, the careful mental husbandman should reserve like
+cards, in case of such accident as old age, when all the passions,
+except that of eating, shall have been extinguished. During night
+the grumbling of thunder far beneath our feet is our rude lullaby.
+Once, and only once, I heard a cracking in the underwood, which my
+ears, now familiar with the sounds of the backwoods, at once
+recognized as the effect of a human visitor, perhaps of two. Selim
+brought my revolvers, and we debated upon the propriety of firing a
+shot over the spot, as a caution to spies. It is well we did not;
+we should only have disturbed some harmless hunter visiting the
+spring. After a cool and comfortable night—the mercury stands at
+50°—unblemished by a single mosquito, or without an atom of
+perspiration on the proboscis, we are awakened at earliest dawn by
+the small brown birds, some tapping like woodpeckers the hollow
+tree-trunks, others singing with might and main
+tutu-pigi-tutu-pigi-tutu-pi. Who was it that said birds have no
+song in the tropics? Any ear can hear that they are singing, and a
+good ear, when familiarized with the novel music, can detect as
+much melody in it as in that of any others. I presume, however,
+that association has more to do with the pleasure
+derived<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> from the
+singing of birds than with most other human enjoyments.</p>
+
+<p>The expedition, Krumen and all, save myself, being now in a high
+state of preservation, it was judged advisable to make a second
+reconnaissance. Mr. Saker had written to us on the 26th, telling us
+not to wait for him. The letter, by-the-by, did not reach us till
+the evening of the 29th, showing that our lazybones who had
+escorted the returner had spent four days upon a two days’ march.
+Knowing that the ‘book’ which they brought up would probably
+mention their desertion, they prudently left it with one of their
+number in the rear, and the rest pressed on to receive a glass of
+rum. At 10·25 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, on the 2nd January,
+1862, Messrs. Calvo and Mann set out, accompanied by six Krumen and
+King Eyo, with provisions for four days. I despatched about the
+same time six other ‘boys’ to Victoria, in case Mr. Saker might
+wish to return, and remained on the hill-side with Selim Aga and
+the four fellows that completed the party.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Calvo and Mann suddenly returned before sunset two days
+after they had started. The latter had brought on a relapse, and
+looked weak and weary; besides which they had allowed the Krumen to
+finish their water and their stores. Moreover, they had forgotten
+to furnish themselves with liquor; and the coldness of the mountain
+water had begun to tell upon<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_169">[169]</span> them. They had marched, after leaving camp,
+in an hour and three quarters, to Mount Helen; and after resting
+thirty-five minutes had reached in another hour and a half Mount
+Isabel, where they found the water-breakers safe but rather leaky.
+Whilst their Krumen prepared a roosting-place in an old crater, a
+grassy hollow, promising defence from the alpine violence of the
+night winds, they ascended to the summit, and with great
+difficulty. The azimuth compass had no stand, and their ‘tropical
+hands’ were dead with cold. They took bearings of the principal
+points in the glorious sub-range of southern mountains over which
+they had passed; and they found the dormitory anything but
+unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p>At six <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, on the 3rd January, the
+reconnoitrers arose, breakfasted, fed their men, and were <em>en
+route</em> before the hour was ended. They followed the west—not,
+as we did, the east—of Lava Bed No. 3, and found it, contrary to
+what had been expected, by far the longer and rougher of the two.
+After about an hour and a half of marching they reached the
+grass-grown hills at the foot of the Pico Grande, and M. Mann named
+the tallest, on the left hand or westward, ‘Mount Hooker.’ Passing
+round its western flank, they found in the northern base a
+tolerably sheltered nighting-place, where they deposited their
+luggage, under the charge of three Krumen. Accompanied
+by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span> Messrs. John,
+George, Clipper, and Tom Pepper, whose activity was stimulated by
+hopes of cloth, after an hour’s rest they reached the base of the
+great cone at 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> As had been agreed
+upon in camp, they turned towards the left, or Albert Crater,
+instead of ascending the front, and, rounding the western side,
+they wound up the slope, which, overlaid with fine black scoriæ and
+ashes, often caused them to ‘sink two steps backwards for one
+forwards.’ They also found the wind so strong that it nearly blew
+them down. When near the summit, they caught sight of a huge
+depression, distant about four miles, and separated from the
+mountain by a long slope of cinder. They described it as an
+‘<em>effondrement</em>,’ a vast chasm in the earth, oval or
+horse-shoe shaped, with a longer diameter of not less than three
+miles; the sides, sparsely clad with shrubs and plants, fell sheer
+down. The depth they placed at the enormous figure of 3000 feet;
+and the cavity appeared large enough for the Peak to fit into
+it.</p>
+
+<p>At 1·45 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, after nearly four hours’
+climb, the explorers stood upon the high back wall of Albert
+Crater, which commands a view of the whole summit. They stayed
+there for half an hour; hung up the self-registering thermometers,
+and left the top, too much benumbed by cold—the mercury sank to 45°
+50′—for further observations. The violent north-easter<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> seemed to pierce through them,
+and they descended the south-western slope, between Albert and
+Victoria Craters, where they found what M. Mann called ‘a wall of
+granite in huge blocks.’ At 2·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> they
+descended as rapidly as possible; and at 3·10 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, after forty-five minutes of slipping and
+sliding, they reached the rendezvous. King Eyo, Black Beggar, and
+the handsome Ire—so called because he was probably the ugliest
+nigger ever invented—having finished the whole breaker of water,
+Sio, <em>alias</em> Tom Pepper, was sent to fetch another from
+Mount Isabel. Not relishing a solitary walk, he persuaded Clipper
+and King Eyo to accompany him. The precious two started, and were
+seen no more that night. The travellers did not raise the tent;
+they spent the hours of darkness under <em>la belle étoile</em>, at
+the foot of the grassy cone, and found the air exceedingly
+cold.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th January the reconnoitrers were delayed till 7·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> for water, of which two breakers came
+instead of one. The idle Krumen had suffered as they deserved: one
+half with thirst, the other with cold. King Eyo, the sablest of
+youths, looked almost white, and threw himself about as one with a
+colic. M. Mann’s relapse necessitating immediate return, the party
+moved at 9·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>: reaching Mount Isabel,
+they saw a strange apparition. On the opposite side of the crater
+stood a native hunter, with his two<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_172">[172]</span> small prick-eared curs, adorned with bell
+necklaces. The man was habited in a rug round the loins, and held
+nothing in his hand but a staff or spear. These tribes ignore the
+bow and arrow. The poor wretch halted, spell-bound, which is not to
+be wondered at, by the sight. Evil spirits in Africa are white and
+ugly, by the same rule that they are black and ugly in Europe; and
+he must have thought himself in dire proximity to what we should
+term the Devil. Perhaps he saw before him the Great Pale Face, who
+haunts the big water, guarding the treasures of the mountain.<a id=
+"FNanchor_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a>
+M. Mann, wishing a sketch, motioned him to approach: he waved an
+emphatic negative, tossed his arms, and simultaneously shouted,
+with a peculiar wild cry, to his dogs, who were drawing near the
+strangers, making them turn to the right-about, like a file of
+soldiers. After this he fled wildly down the hill-side, and was
+seen no more. The Bwea people, on the east of the mountain, and the
+mountaineers generally, travel high up. Perhaps this phenomenon
+accounts for the crashing of the wood which I had heard on the
+previous night.<a id="FNanchor_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85"
+class="fnanchor">[85]</a> It is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_173">[173]</span> lucky that the country people are not less
+cowardly than the Krumen. Of these, four out of the five, all armed
+with matchets, ‘bolted’ from one naked hunter; John being the only
+brave that stood his ground. They were not found till near the
+camp, when, <em>mendaces in excelsis</em>, they declared that they
+had run away to warn their masters, who had remained behind making
+collections, of the danger that threatened the party.</p>
+
+<p>I had been suffering from ague on that afternoon, and it much
+resembled the pleasant inebriating attack at Lagos. It is, I have
+said, a highly intellectual complaint; it heightens all the
+faculties; the memory becomes most acute; visions of past things
+flit before the mental eye with startling vivacity; flattering
+hopes of the future bubble from the brain. You sing, sketch novels,
+compose <em>ariettes</em>, and spin verse like an Italian
+improvisatore. In this state of wide-awakeness to all around, I
+fancied, about 5 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, that a Kru cry was
+sounding in the distance, and ordered those in camp to answer it.
+They obeyed, but manifestly thought me<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_174">[174]</span> <em>exalté</em>. However, at 5·30
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we saw a line of bearers winding
+along Earthwork Crater, a few yards above our heads, and I had the
+pleasure of finding that there had been no accident. M. Mann had
+been somewhat disappointed. He brought home some fine specimens of
+ranunculus, monica, senecio, and leucathoë,<a id=
+"FNanchor_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a>
+besides gramineæ, helichrysum, veronica, cytisus, and others,
+inhabiting the lava-fields which surround the highest mountain. But
+he had found only six species not growing in the temperate region;
+the rest were the lower forms, stunted and wilted by wind and cold.
+He discovered no Alpine types. The conifer which he had met at San
+Thomé, 5000 feet above sea-level, is absent from these mountains
+even at double that altitude. The evening passed pleasantly in
+recounting past adventures. The four fugitive Krumen were duly
+punished; the ringleader received three dozen; the others were at
+once sent back with full breakers to Mount Isabel, and all forgot
+for a week the taste of pork and grog.</p>
+
+<p>On the next day our party upon the hill-side received another
+accession. At 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> the usual<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> shouts and answers in the
+Victoria road announced the return of Mr. Saker, who was
+accompanied by Mr. R. Smith, a coadjutor of the Camaroons Mission,
+six Krumen, and three Camaroons men, who deserted <em>en masse</em>
+on the third day. Their ascent presented few novelties. Myombi and
+Botani had been harangued by Mr. Johnson upon the folly of
+ill-treating white men who could close the market to them: and this
+threat of what is to an African the worst of penalties, made both
+chiefs and people exceptionally civil. They had persuaded two
+Bosumbo men to carry part of the loads to Mapanya, and a few leaves
+of tobacco had induced old ‘Balmat’ to accompany them to ‘Ridge
+Camp.’ They had also found a short cut between Bosumbo and Mapanya,
+enabling them to avoid the long eastern <em>détour</em> over bad
+ground which we had made during our ascent. They had performed the
+journey in fifteen hours and fifteen minutes of actual marching,
+and Mr. Saker estimated the distance at twenty-three miles.<a id=
+"FNanchor_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87" class=
+"fnanchor">[87]</a></p>
+
+<p>We now became a thoroughly dilapidated party,<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> ‘a pitiful company for
+mountain research.’ Mr. Saker took sights all day, and had fever
+every night; Mr. Smith worked out a two months’ tertian which he
+had caught in the Camaroons River; my foot was still painful; and
+M. Mann suffered so much from an old dysentery that it was thought
+better for him to try change of air. It is frequently the effect of
+the hill climates in India, and even of a return from the tropics
+to England, to draw forth a disease whose seeds are latent in the
+system, after which crisis the sufferer may expect a complete
+return of health.</p>
+
+<p>Active steps were also rendered necessary by the state of our
+provisions. The twenty-five hungry Krumen had got through 1000 lbs.
+of rice in a fortnight, no stores had arrived in the adjoining
+river from England, and Victoria market supplied nothing but yams
+and kokos, the latter of which were sold at eight per leaf of
+tobacco. ‘Balmat’ made his appearance in camp, accompanied by two
+youths equipped with sword and musket, and hung round with little
+gourds containing their ammunition. They brought a present of
+provisions, and, by way of securing a larger return gift, they
+declared, in their loud and barking voices, that a neighbouring
+‘king,’ hearing of white men being upon the mountain, had declared
+war against them for allowing us to pass,—a<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_177">[177]</span> campaign that may terminate in the loss
+of a goat. They promised to hunt the neighbourhood for
+‘bush-beef’<a id="FNanchor_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88" class=
+"fnanchor">[88]</a> and to supply us with meat, but we could not
+place faith in their words.</p>
+
+<p>The Krumen were sent under Black Will to bring up the remainder
+of our stores from Victoria on the 6th of January, and four days
+later M. Mann, with ten others, took with him sixteen dollars,
+cloth, and matchets, to tempt the people to sell stock. He was
+accompanied by the Judge, who had reasons for wishing to reach
+Fernando Po before the next mail departure, and who, though the
+only sound man amongst four sick, found his position the reverse of
+pleasant. He took with him King Eyo, whose departure was a relief;
+the little rascal’s extreme idleness was really painful to
+contemplate. A manchila was rigged up for the invalid, but the
+shaking and jolting of the inexperienced bearers soon rendered it
+unendurable. The travellers left at 10 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, and with great difficulty reached Victoria that
+night. Their men shirked as usual, lagged behind, and, when urged
+on with the stick, threatened to desert.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th of January, Mr. Smith still remaining unwell, Mr.
+Saker set out with four Krumen to effect<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_178">[178]</span> his ascent. Starting at 7·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, he made for Mount Isabel, and boiled
+thermometers. After halting there two hours, he entered upon Lava
+Bed No. 3, and, warned by Judge Calvo’s and M. Mann’s experience,
+followed its eastern side. Another two hours placed him at the foot
+of a small grassy cone, which he named Mount Arthur, and he camped
+in the rim or hollow; round the base were blocks of lava, rising
+eight or ten feet from a bed in front and forming a kind of
+shelter. The night was most enjoyable, the mercury at dawn showing
+33° Fah.</p>
+
+<p>On the next day Mr. Saker left his camp at 6 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> and ascended the long south-eastern ridge, where
+lava-lumps and stunted tufts of grass afforded a superior footing.
+After three hours and ten minutes of hard climbing, the party stood
+on Mount Victoria, about 150 feet below the highest summit. The day
+was favourable and windless. A single B. P. observation was made,
+188° (Fah.), temperature 59°. As will presently appear, much
+importance cannot be attached to this, the first of observations.
+Water cannot be overboiled, but it is fair to suspect the lower
+estimate of underboiling. The descent of the cone occupied him one
+hour and a half. He left his camp at 2·10 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> on the same day, and reached us a little before
+dark. Mr. Smith had already commenced the descent; on the next day
+he was followed by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span>
+Mr. Saker. After ten hours of actual walking they arrived without
+accident at their home.</p>
+
+<p>The following is the only account of this third ascent which has
+yet appeared; it was first printed in some missionary paper, and
+bore date 10th February, 1862:—</p>
+
+<p>‘In company with M. Mann and Mr. Consul Burton we reached an
+elevation of pure air, and stayed there some days. After a careful
+survey of the high region where we were encamped, I left to explore
+the peak, and ascended from the south side. During my absence M.
+Mann had ascended the north side, and Consul Burton had attempted
+the west face.<a id="FNanchor_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89" class=
+"fnanchor">[89]</a> After a day’s weary toil over beds of lava, we
+reached the foot of a small mount somewhat sheltering to weary
+travellers. There I spread my blanket and passed the night. It was
+a glorious evening, but somewhat cold; at early dawn I found the
+glass at 31° Fah. But the sun rose: a cloudless morning, and it
+soon grew warm. At 6 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> I began the
+ascent, and at 10 reached the southern summit or ridge. By this
+time it was very warm, and the wind that sweeps so fearfully in
+these regions seemed hushed, and light, fleecy clouds ever and anon
+shut in the surrounding scenery. Towards the east I saw a range of
+mountains<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> that I
+had never before observed, and took their bearings, but the attempt
+to secure the angles of summit towards the west was not so
+successful; as, ere I could bring two points together, one would be
+obscured. At this point I found the water boil at 188°, thermometer
+58°. This gives an elevation nearly the same as our charts give it
+from trigonometrical survey below. My attempt to explore the crater
+was a failure; the whole was enshrouded in cloud. The crater must
+be of enormous extent; the two most prominent peaks we named
+Victoria and Albert (little did we think then, in December, that
+the nation and our beloved Sovereign were then being plunged into
+irreparable grief); and those peaks present a large angle at seven
+miles’ distance. I regret I did not previously take it, and my
+failure to take angles leaves me in much ignorance of what I wished
+to ascertain. After a long delay I began the descent, and at
+<em>two</em> reached my nightly place, and after rest and
+refreshment set out on return to our camp. Here I found the Consul
+a little better, but still unable to walk much. As I had stayed on
+this second run up the mountains ten days, I was compelled to leave
+for this place and for Cameroons.</p>
+
+<p>‘It is only needful to mention here that in those visits to the
+highest regions we have ascertained that<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_181">[181]</span> there are now native towns at about 3500
+feet elevation, that cultivation extends but little further, and
+that beyond these heights there is every inducement to seek a
+temporary home for invalids and wearied missionaries.’</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc04">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80"><span class=
+"label">[80]</span></a>A popular Spanish phrase for home-sickness,
+from which the soldiers at Fernando Po suffer severely. The idea is
+that the shoulder-blade falls and the arm loses strength. The
+remedy is very Oriental; I have seen it at El Medinah. The patient
+lies upon the ground, a friend walks over and tramples upon him,
+and he recovers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81"><span class=
+"label">[81]</span></a>In the East hidden treasures consist of gold
+and jewels, and the magical methods by which they are brought to
+light are applied to milk by the pastoral Somal and the Irish, and
+to cotton cloth and copper-rods by the trading West Africans. The
+only explanation to the natives of our ascending the mountain was
+the existence of these treasures.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82"><span class=
+"label">[82]</span></a>See <a href="#app4">Appendix IV.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83"><span class=
+"label">[83]</span></a>Even at Fernando Po I find a stove
+absolutely necessary in mornings and evenings for health and
+comfort; but it is only the old African who thinks of so apparently
+unnatural a procedure.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84"><span class=
+"label">[84]</span></a>The reader will find this explained in
+<a href="#app2">Appendix II.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85"><span class=
+"label">[85]</span></a>On the 1st February M. Mann, when collecting
+plants sheltered in a hollow from the strong wind, had a similar
+rencontre. ‘I suddenly,’ he says, ‘observed a native close by, who,
+without seeing me, had unwittingly dropped upon me. When I
+addressed him he stretched out his hand, and after a few minutes
+pronounced the word “tobacco.” I called to him to come nearer,
+which he was unwilling to do, and when I went towards him I saw
+that he trembled with fright. He was a head taller than I, and
+nearly twice as stout, without any clothes except a small piece of
+thin cloth about his loins: he had arms and a cutlass. I made him
+understand that he should bring me a hyæna and a gazelle, which he
+promised, and slowly went away, looking back as though afraid that
+I should lay hands upon him.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86"><span class=
+"label">[86]</span></a>In this region the temperate zone,
+botanically speaking, would extend from 5000 feet to the summit. In
+more northerly mountains, Etna for instance, the zones are usually
+reckoned to be five, viz. lowland or cultivated, wooded, shrubby,
+grassy, and of cryptogams. For sanitarial purposes the torrid would
+extend from the shore to 1500 feet above sea-level, the temperate
+from 1500 to 7000 feet, and the frigid to the top.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87"><span class=
+"label">[87]</span></a>This is about double the true figure, 13
+geographical miles. I made a practice of asking each member of the
+expedition his estimate of every march, registered the lowest, and
+found on comparing it with actual measurement by the cord that it
+was usually twice too long. When instruments are not used this must
+ever be expected. But it is no objection to the general credibility
+of a book if its 300 miles of distance are reduced to 120. This
+sounds like a truism: apparently, however, it is not generally
+acknowledged to be true.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88"><span class=
+"label">[88]</span></a>Formerly there were wild cattle upon the
+Peak of Fernando Po; but they were probably let loose there by
+Spaniards in the last century. We heard of none on Camaroons
+Mountain.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89"><span class=
+"label">[89]</span></a>Mr. Saker knew perfectly the facts of the
+case, which he here ‘pretty considerably’ misstates.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span><a id=
+"c05"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">THE FINAL ASCENT.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">In</span> the lower regions the
+‘smokes,’ or hazy season, last from early December to the end of
+January, and they seem gradually extending up the mountain. On the
+12th January the clouds rose for the first time overhead. On the
+19th, after a still, clear morning, the mist settled upon us, and a
+few heavy drops, heralded by the smell of rain mixing with the
+nutty odour of the forest, fell at 4·30 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, and between 5 and 6 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> Then a double bank of clouds, lightning cumuli,
+with flesh-tint lights and steely-blue shades upon a grey ground,
+forging up portentously from the S.E. to the zenith, showed us for
+the first time a mountain storm.</p>
+
+<p>On beginning, the thunder growled as usual far below our feet;
+frequently it seemed to ascend, and the low continuous rumbling of
+the distance was broken by rattling peals, seemingly around us. The
+lightning flashed bright from N. to S., veering to the S.W., and
+lastly to the N.W.; it was mostly globular,<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_183">[183]</span> shooting like Roman-candles through the
+lower air, whilst in places a web-work of vivid zigzag flame
+played, darting into groups, over the mountain and the dwarf crater
+near us. The wind, at this time usually northerly, blew heavily
+from the west, and the storm once more worked round to the S.E.,
+with occasional coruscations from the N.W. and due N. Little
+Camaroons appeared to be the centre of attraction; the head was
+covered with a thick cap of cumuli, dense and grandiose, that moved
+gradually eastward. As the loud thunder died away in the several
+gradations of distance—sheet-lightning still appeared in the
+north—a cold wind set in from the east, and, freshening to a gale,
+brought with it an hour’s heavy rain from the tumultuous rollers
+around. After two hours of atmospheric commotion all was again
+quiet, and a clear moonlit night induced sound sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The savage appearance of the lightning upon these Acroceraunian
+Hills made me guard against possible accidents, by planting upon
+the southern lip of Earthwork Crater directly above our camp a
+young tree with a matchet lashed to the top. It was ‘strong
+medicine’ to the dejected Krumen, who disliked the appearance of
+fire-globes shooting across the path at least as much as their
+master did. Our rude <em>paratonnère</em>, however, was not struck,
+although it had the best of opportunities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>The 22nd January
+was to me a <em>dies mirabilis</em>. At 8·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> there was another bad storm, lightning volleying,
+and thunder cracking and pealing in unpleasant proximity. The
+phenomenon wore the usual aspect of Tornado,—the Turner: beginning
+in the N.W., it veered round through the S.E., and returned to its
+original direction, often dying away and presently resuscitating.
+At 10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> a high north-easterly gale
+brought with it large scattered gouts, which presently thickened to
+a close shower. I was afterwards informed that those below saw the
+north-eastern flank of Pico Grande sheeted with snow.</p>
+
+<p>At noon the weather had improved, and the tonic of oxygen
+developed by the storm enabled me to leave my leafy bower, after
+nearly four weeks of not unpleasant prison. Selim reported that
+Fernando Po was in sight for the first time. I crept a few yards
+along the south-western slope of Earthwork Crater, and, armed with
+sketching materials, sighted a peculiar view. The mists, at first
+thickly rising from the south-west, thinned out and floated
+northwards. They met and tussled, wearying themselves in the fray,
+now rendering everything invisible beyond ten yards, then opening
+out a prospect of twenty miles. At length the sickly sun became
+victorious. The horizon seemed raised high above its proper place,
+and in the dark grey abyss below purple-grey masses of
+cloud<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> floated over
+a sea undistinguishable from the misty sky, whilst on the extreme
+line of sight rose Fernando Po, a ghastly form, like one of
+Ossian’s favourite mountains. The Peak, which was apparently
+double, bore 229° 15′ (M.), and Clarence, or Sta. Isabel, a darker
+dot at the base, was 225°.</p>
+
+<p>The change of air and scene worked miracles for me: the next day
+and the next saw me on foot in picnicking guise, attended by my
+factotum and two Kruboys, laying down a base to check the distance
+of Mount Helen, and sketching the several craters that lay upon our
+line of ascent.</p>
+
+<p>At 1·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> on the 25th of January, M.
+Mann returned with three Krumen; he had made a gallant march,
+having left Victoria but yesterday morning. His health had been
+restored by a diet of iron-rust burned in brandy or rum, and cold
+arrowroot tempered with chalk,<a id="FNanchor_90"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> the prescription of the
+good Mr. Johnson. The traveller had procured little in the way of
+provision, only forty kokos were forthcoming: for his scarlet
+blanket he had been offered, in ascending series, a pig, a fat
+goat, a small boy, and a large girl; but he could not afford to
+part with it.</p>
+
+<p>The next day was one of rest. M. Mann botanized<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> in the woody region, and I
+visited some caves which the Judge had reported to be three miles
+off; actual measurement placed them at 3400 feet. It was a
+beautiful morning after a stormy night and a misty dawn; clouds
+like a congeries of white balloons lay against the blue empyrean,
+and caught the radiance of the golden shower from the east. The
+path lay to the west, along Earthwork Crater; and presently it
+plunged into a perfumed wood spangled with the yellow marigolds of
+the senecio, the pretty heath <i>Blæria spicata</i>, one of the
+seventeen plants already found to be absolutely peculiar to
+Abyssinia and Fernando Po, a red and yellow seed-casting
+impatiens,<a id="FNanchor_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91" class=
+"fnanchor">[91]</a> somewhat like a ‘lady’s slipper,’ and a
+honeysuckle-like plant unknown to the herbalist. A clearing in the
+forest showed us a hunter’s old hut, with evidence of modern
+tenure; and a little beyond it we found, in a hollow tree, a
+deserted bee-hive. Presently we saw the caves: two holes under a
+heap of lava, in a little barranca, a segment of one of those
+arched tunnels or galleries found under lava currents in Iceland,
+Bourbon, and elsewhere. The direction of the larger is from N. to
+S., and the dimensions are 24 feet long by 7 broad, and 2½
+high.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> Water deeply
+deposited in the soil trickles into it from above; the drops fall
+with a ceaseless tinkle upon a slimy floor, into which the water
+apparently sinks, and thus—perhaps a Cueva de Yelo may eventually
+be found—it may become useful to settlers.</p>
+
+<p>Monday, the 27th January—exactly a month from the day of my
+accident—was appointed for our final ascent, and for the ceremony
+of taking possession. The party consisted of M. Mann and myself,
+Selim and half a dozen Krumen carrying water, provisions, and
+sleeping tackle. We started at seven o’clock on a fine clear
+morning, soon emerged from the weald, and sighted, beyond the
+ascending foreground of dry white clover, spangled with gentian,
+dwarf heaths, little white bells (a Wahlenbergia?), and a sechorium
+not unlike the wild aster of the Western Prairies, Mount Helen, our
+Carmel. From that point we pursued a more direct course than we had
+yet made, passed to the left of Mount Selim, and after a short
+tough pull we reached the first nighting place, a deep grassy
+hollow in the northern counterslope of Mount Isabel. The Krumen
+straggled in long afterwards, pretending that they had missed the
+way: as they had not turned a hair, it is more probable that they
+had sat down and anathematized us in some quiet corner.</p>
+
+<p>On the topmost lip of Mount Isabel we now lingered long to enjoy
+the view behind us, which, though<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_188">[188]</span> not so grand, was fully as peculiar as that
+before us. Use, which lessens marvel, now enabled us to keep our
+eyes off the Pico Grande. The southern horizon was a broken line of
+numerous cones, each grisly with its own crater, some acute hills,
+others truncated hillocks—the smallest thing of the lot was named
+Mount ‘Wood’—all gashed and broken in every direction, mostly
+grassy, but in some places showing tufts and scatters of trees in
+their hollows on their lee side: and they rose from a manner of
+plain, whose crevasses showed it to be an old bed of degraded lava.
+After sketching this subrange of the main line, we ascended Mount
+Isabel, and found another ‘vacuity obscure,’ whose north-western
+rim formed an excellent position for a surveying pole: here we took
+a round of angles. On the north the main spiracle of the great
+central fire rose splendid, steely blue and sun-gilt; the strong
+east wind, sweeping the right side, kept clear the deep azure
+against which its form stood sharply out. On the west of the cone,
+the mist clouds,<a id="FNanchor_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92"
+class="fnanchor">[92]</a> gathering thick and heavy, melting away,
+but, immediately renewed, as if spread by the hands of genii,
+formed by their lightness and mobility a charming contrast with the
+fixed gigantesque forms below.</p>
+
+<p>Long before sunset we were forced to vacate our eyrie, which was
+nearly the height of Fernando Po<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_189">[189]</span> Peak. The thermometer showed only 45°, but
+the cold dry gusts cut our hands. We retired before dark to our
+more genial resting-place, where food and fire, and waterproofs,
+and hanging rocks of basalt and conglomerate helped us through the
+evening and the dreary night. From Mount Helen to Mount Isabel the
+tape showed 8648 feet, and the total distance from camp was 16,462
+feet. The crater in which we slept was 10,187 feet, and the summit
+10,590 feet above sea-level.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning broke red, dull, and raw, with a high and gusty
+east wind, which was an inducement to activity. At 7·30
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, after passing the Gateway, we
+crossed Lava Bed No. 3 to a grassy crater, which Mr. Saker had
+named Mount Leopold. We walked along its side, and then resumed the
+passage of the stream of extinguished fire till we reached the
+eastern base of a similar formation, Arthur Crater. As experience
+on Mount Etna, at Madeira, and at other places proves, decomposed
+lava makes a fruitful soil; it is, however, of slow growth, rarely
+attaining any depth before 2000 years.<a id=
+"FNanchor_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a>
+Altitude and latitude would greatly modify calculations; excessive
+humidity and fierce sunshine would, of course, accelerate the
+operation. In the dry atmosphere of Tenerife, above<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> the lower clouds there is
+little decay. The black cascades of stones on the more northern
+Peak, though probably outpoured before the age of man, appear to be
+the exudations of yesterday: the contrary must be the case here.
+This bed, then, must be very modern; in the artery, green with
+small mosses, and in the sheltered nooks and clefts were found
+stunted ferns, thyme, a lovely red mint, large yellow immortelles,
+and the delicate blue <i>Veronica Mannii</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Not feeling disposed to tempt the cold hollow under Mount
+Hooker, where Messrs. Calvo and Mann had passed the night, we left
+this lava-bed and turned to the right, rounding the eastern selvage
+of Mount Arthur, which in this direction is greatly elongated. We
+then crossed another lava-stream, which encircles the cone, and
+anastomozes with No. 3: it is composed of a soft green artery,
+rather more rugged than the former, and a hard black vein. The
+unlovely surface was lit up with the red bloom of the viscid
+<i>Blæria spicata</i>, and a chrysanthemum (?) with large golden
+flowers and long glaucous leaves doubled with silvery white. The
+chief arborescent plants were the leucothoë and monica, which
+attained a height of twenty feet, but grew only in sheltered
+bottoms. There was a beautiful gorse-like cytisus,<a id=
+"FNanchor_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a>
+covered with yellow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span>
+bloom, or short black pods: it brought to mind the old lines:</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent10">Non me pascente capellæ,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Florentem cytisum et salices carpetis
+amaras.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Here it is a stiff, round-topped tree, not more
+than six feet high; the last shrub found in the midst of the main
+cone had been dwarfed to six inches. The hypericum also occurred
+only as a shrub, not taller than eight feet.</p>
+
+<p>After a two hours’ march, during which we had accomplished 6937
+feet, ‘Black Beggar,’ who had accompanied Mr. Saker, pointed out to
+us a kind of form in which the reverend gentleman had passed the
+night: we called it Saker’s Camp. The position is a natural fosse
+between the slope of Mount Arthur, which defends it from the angry
+north-easter, and the last traversed lava-bed, which can supply a
+modicum of fuel. By B. P. thermometer the height proved to be
+10,595 above sea-level, about the altitude of Mount Isabel’s
+summit, and five hundred feet more elevated than Mount Etna.</p>
+
+<p>The main cone rose temptingly near; we breakfasted hurriedly,
+and, sending back three Krumen for water and other stores, we set
+out at 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> towards<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span> the south-eastern ridge of
+Victoria Mountain. Forty-five minutes of stumbling over the rough
+lava placed us at the base of the mighty spiracle, and in the
+depression forming a grassy rim round the foundation we boiled the
+thermometer, and found that it showed 10,530 feet. We then
+impatiently resumed the path, thinking that, as the Pico of
+Tenerife is not three geographical miles in circumference, we might
+easily encompass the head of Camaroons, and obtain a view of a new
+country towards the north. M. Mann pressed forwards from S.E. to
+E., and through a gap in the clouds now fast rolling up the side he
+caught sight of the lower platform, which he described as a ridge
+trending to the N.E., and looking like a plain patched with white
+and dark green. I espied a way northwards towards a dark chasm
+which afterwards proved to be the mouth of Victoria Crater. Selim
+and Seabreeze had remained in rear packing up the B. P. We were now
+scattered, and hallooing was of no avail.</p>
+
+<p>After making another tack, and walking over a true Mal Passo of
+lava ridge and loose scoriæ, I reached Victoria Crater at 2
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, and sat down to await the gathering
+of the party, which would inevitably be attracted by the aspect of
+the spot. The position upon the highest crest reminded me of the
+Chinese poet who celebrated the cataract of Leu Shan:—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_193">[193]</span>I am like a white bird among the
+clouds;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">I insult the winds and invade the
+profound abyss.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Northwards was the dividing ridge separating
+Victoria from Albert Crater. Southwards the former was burst by an
+eruption of once fiery matter, whose greenish course ‘like a river
+manifold’ swept down the cone’s side towards the wooded region
+below. The site was broken and uneven, cumbered with huge
+<em>débris</em>, and at the point of efflux stood a ‘Lot’s Wife,’ a
+solitary pillar of honeycombed black basalt conspicuous from the
+camp below. At 3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we met in the
+crater, and after remaining for some time in the mist—unhappily I
+had no hygrometer—we hastened down the south-western slope, reached
+the foot of Mount Milnes at 4 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, and
+after another hour found ourselves in camp.</p>
+
+<p>Over-eagerness had spoilt this day’s work. M. Mann had found the
+eastern side more interesting than the western; it was more or less
+covered with vegetation up to the crater, though completely exposed
+to the north-east wind. He brought a few shrubs, ericanella,
+cytisus, the helichrysum, a senecio which he was kind enough to
+name <i>S. Burtoni</i>, an anthospermum, and a ‘petty rerect
+lycopodium,’ whose flowers, red in the lower regions, here became a
+light pink. I added to my collection only some specimens of the
+coarse quartzose stone before seen in Victoria<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_194">[194]</span> Mountains. We had both seen traces of
+deer, which seem to visit the highest regions; but our guns had not
+once occasion to break the silence.</p>
+
+<p>The night was raw, the clouds threatening; and although the
+hill-shoulder defended us from the cutting squalls, the hoar-frost
+bit our hands and faces. At 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> the
+thermometer showed 37° (Fah.), and the aspect was that of a
+thunderstorm, which, combined with snow, would not have been
+pleasant to hutless men. Towards morning a gradual improvement took
+place, and we enjoyed a wonderful dawn. The tall black Piton,
+partially white, and powdered with congealed dew, rose sharply in
+the dull morning air with a peculiarly ghostly effect. The
+atmosphere kindled with a beautiful glow, soon quenching the stars
+and widening the horizon, which half an hour before seemed to be
+closing upon us. Then a flood of ruddy light poured over the
+eastern side of the Mount of Heaven, leaving the other still cold
+and grey, and lastly the large red sun arose, bringing in his train
+a bevy of rushing white clouds. The appearance was that of a dry
+day, for which we had reason to be grateful.</p>
+
+<p>We started early. M. Mann had agreed to ascend Victoria Mountain
+by the long south-eastern ridge, which forms a natural road. I
+undertook the steely-blue slope of burnt scoriæ between Victoria
+and Albert Mountains: all had deemed the passage not<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> feasible, but ‘<em>è
+impossibile, signorino</em>’ had in early youth sent me over the
+crumbling natural arch at Sorrento. After an hour’s slow walking
+we—factotum Selim and three Kruboys—had crossed at 8 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> the 4000 feet of broken lava and rugged ground
+separating us from Mount Milnes. Here we halted for breakfast, lit
+our fire, and leisurely prepared for work. A measurement from the
+base to the apex of Victoria Mountain gave 3300 feet along the
+slope, not quite the dimensions of Stromboli; the perpendicular
+height by B. P. was 2166 feet.<a id="FNanchor_95"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p>
+
+<p>After forty-five minutes we resumed our march, working towards
+the ‘Half-way Rocks’ that rose from the slope of Victoria Mountain.
+Here, after measuring a base, I halted to impress upon my mind the
+features of the wild scene. Looking southwards no great extent of
+country was visible from this point, and the breadth of the plateau
+shut out the sea from sight: the atmosphere, however, was so clear
+that all the minutiæ of scenery rose vivid and distinct. There was
+a perfect view of the first or loftiest range—a Puy de Dôme highly
+magnified, and the vast torrent<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_196">[196]</span> of black lava surging and re-surging,
+winding, dividing, and joining again between and around a
+‘<em>plaine bombée</em>’ of cinder cones and vent-hills, tall and
+short, naked and grass-clothed, perfect and truncated, buttressing
+ridges, pit-craters, high flues, chimney-pots and mamelons,
+Monteneros, Maladettas, Campi Phlegræi and clinker-fields—in fact a
+compilation of volcanoes the slow growth of countless ages, that
+fell off in long perspective towards the horizon, appeared for the
+first time to flow from, not towards, my feet. The shape of the
+‘Katakaumen’ before us seemed to be an immense Plutonic triangle
+whose apex was the majestic Mount Isabel—in this direction it
+appeared pierced with many a crater—which here completely shut out
+the view of the sub-ranges. On the right, or westward, was a ledge,
+with a clean cut, as if made by the hand of man, and beyond it
+nothing showed but clouds surging up from the void below, giving it
+the appearance of resting on air. On the left Mount Eliza and the
+Three Sisters proved themselves by blurred outline and green tinge
+a connecting link between the Mal Pais and the Regione Culta of the
+lesser altitudes. The further distance exposed undulations of the
+fire torrent, rivers of black and green lava, and plains, here
+black and bare, there untouched by oxidating influence, there tawny
+with shrubs, mosses, and lichens, which flourish in 70° N. lat.
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> Europe. The
+immediate foreground was worthy of the rest,—a rapid slope of black
+scoriæ, loose, finely powdered, reeking in the fiery sun, exposing
+under every footstep an under-crust of greyish ashes, and in rare
+places held together by a block of lava or a bunch of lichens.</p>
+
+<p>Viewed from this point the whole platform ground between Mount
+Isabel and the Pico Grande resembles the vast and far older ‘Crater
+of Elevation’—according to the <em>soulèvement</em> theory of the
+great ‘upheavalists’ Baron von Buch and M. Elie de Beaumont, or
+submarine according to Mr. Jukes—eight miles in diameter, with
+walls like giant mountain ranges, and 7000 feet above sea-level,
+which characterizes the Pico do Teyde. If such be the case, the
+central cone or crater of eruption does not stand in the midst of
+the ‘cirque,’ but has last broken out at the northern edge of the
+plateau. Thus the present Peak would be the Vesuvian as opposed to
+the ancient Monte Somma cone.</p>
+
+<p>After Half-Way Rocks it was necessary to cross the blue slide of
+comminuted scoriæ stretching between Victoria and Albert mountains;
+and this was done by treading on the edges of our feet, at times
+condescending to crawl when the mass under us appeared, from its
+extremity of steepness, likely to slide down to the base. This
+occupied but a few minutes, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_198">[198]</span> we all reached in safety the slope of
+Albert Mountain, where a tolerably regular ridge-line of blocks and
+boulders formed stepping-stones, and pointed out a stable path to
+the summit of the Ash cone. Having measured a second base, we began
+the ascent seriously. Again I noticed the utter absence of all
+suffering from the subtilty of the air. The height is considerable,
+though not sufficient of course to cause the effusion of blood
+which according to Humboldt burst from his ears and lips on the
+Andes, or the sufferings of M. Gay-Lussac in his balloon. The
+effects of sudden change from an equatorial climate to an altitude
+which showed many of the features of Hecla, were however mitigated
+probably by the high east wind. In half an hour after leaving
+Half-Way Rocks I sat down upon the terrepleine to await the arrival
+of the Krumen.</p>
+
+<p>The Regione Deserta had a wild and weird aspect. Due north of
+the boulder upon which I reposed rose a V-shaped dyke of
+close-textured grey stone, apparently a jaspidified or altered
+schist, piled in cyclopean blocks, as large as the Titanic stones
+in the unfinished quarries of Baalbak, to the height of about
+twenty-five feet above ground. It separated like a wall Victoria
+from Albert Crater; the longer or western arm descended from the
+high rim of the latter, and the shorter bordered the margin of
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> former. When
+the party reassembled our first visit was to a smaller
+‘<em>caldera</em>,’ which when seen from below looked like a chink
+or gash in the neck of the cone, whose apex is the wall behind
+Albert Crater. This escape-valve by which the ‘topping process’ was
+effected, was found to be a deep and precipitous cavity opening
+southwards, and separated from its E.N.E. neighbour, Albert Crater,
+by a thin rugged wall of black trachyte. The next visit was to
+Albert Crater, a bowl about 1000 feet in circumference, and whose
+greatest depth, viewed from the S.E., is fifty yards: it also
+discharged to the south, and on the N.E. and E. it is bounded by
+the V-shaped dyke before alluded to. The form is a regular inverted
+cone, with a slope varying from 45° to perpendicularity: the
+colours are red, white, and yellow where stone occupies the
+surface, a deep metallic blue shows the slides of scoriæ, and the
+sole is a floor of lamp-black. The north-western wall rises high
+above the lower rim of the bowl, and when the eye is acquainted
+with the details of the scene, it easily distinguishes from below
+this hog-shaped back which is the loftiest portion of the Camaroons
+Mountain. Albert Crater is at first view recognized as a more
+modern formation than Victoria: whilst the latter, though exposed
+to the furious N.E. wind, which everywhere renders vegetation
+poorer and scantier, has an abundant growth of<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_200">[200]</span> cryptogams, the former is almost bare.
+As in Stromboli, the main axis of the cone’s ellipse appears to
+have been shifted, here, however, the mountain has grown by
+subsequent eruptions, not by accumulated ejections upon the
+north-eastern flank.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile M. Mann had ascended this ‘Furnster Punkte,’ and found
+to his regret one of the self-registering thermometers hanging only
+on one hook, with the bulb uppermost. The wind had broken down the
+frail stand, and thus the result of a month was lost. The spirit
+also had changed from the usual red to a pale straw-yellow. Having
+re-arranged it and enjoyed a good view of the unvisited
+mountain-chain to the N.E., he met us below. We turned to the
+E.S.E. and ascended the tufty slope leading to the head of Victoria
+Mountain. The distance was short, and we presently gazed into the
+depths where brooded</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Nox omnibus nigrior densiorque.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Having thus reached our goal, Selim hoisted on the ‘very lip of
+the volcanic lion’ the Union Jack, and our last bottle of champagne
+was emptied in honour of the day. As a token of our visit we left a
+slip of sheet-lead upon which our names were roughly cut, and two
+sixpences in an empty bottle—rather a bright idea, not emanating
+from my pericranium. Mongo ma Loba, Theon Ochema is now ours. The
+B. P. showed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span>
+Victoria Mountain to be 12,700 feet above sea-level.<a id=
+"FNanchor_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96" class=
+"fnanchor">[96]</a></p>
+
+<p>After the ceremony we separated. M. Mann determined to return to
+camp, collecting specimens on the way. I was by no means satisfied
+with what had been done, and still felt that restlessness with
+which the good Genius should inspire his <em>protégé</em>. So,
+leaving one Kruman to rest, and taking with me Selim and Seabreeze,
+I climbed without difficulty the V-shaped dyke which runs up the
+background of Albert Mountain, narrowing and diminishing in height
+as it ascends. Then striking due north, we fell into a kind of
+depression between the outer walls of the two craters, a short,
+smooth valley of scoriæ, scantily dotted with stunted herbage, and
+with dun-coloured butterflies, whose ill-fated bodies the violent
+oblique wind had urged up from below. I have read of such things in
+ascents of Mont Blanc; Richard Lander found these lepidopters
+exceptionally numerous in the Nigerian regions; and in the
+‘Elevation Crater,’ Tenerife, Mr. Piazzi Smyth found drowned
+butterflies (<i>Polyommatus<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_202">[202]</span> Webbianus</i>) like floating spots of
+purple in a little pool. A walk of about a quarter of a mile placed
+us at the further end of the gorge; the cold mist-clouds had
+cleared away, and the unknown land lay before me like a mappamondo.
+I felt as joyful as if my eyes had gazed upon ‘all the kingdoms of
+the world, and the glory of them.’ An inverted arch of volcanic
+substance formed our foreground; on the right it was striated with
+lines of green; on the left the slope showed barren strata, hardly
+tinged with verdure. Over the key of the arch, and at the base of
+the Peak upon which we stood, rose a small hillock, a parasite
+showing verdant spots in the dreary waste of brown. Beyond it, on
+the further side of a deep but gradual fall, began the background,
+stretching far to the N.E., from 50° to 75°, bounded by a
+quoin-shaped range of hill bluff to the eastward, and falling, with
+serrated back, to the west. The lowlands at its base were
+white-yellow with dark streaks, like the formation which we had
+seen looking southwards from Mount Isabel, and the extreme distance
+of the hilly background might have been five miles—in these misty
+regions the near appears far. Such was my first glance at the
+‘Rumbi Hills;’ they did not, as has been shown, appear at all
+‘towering in rude and rugged masses, like the tombstones of a past
+earthquake.’<a id="FNanchor_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97" class=
+"fnanchor">[97]</a> The counter-slope<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_203">[203]</span> northwards was a perfect copy of that over
+which we had passed to ascend the Peak. But Capt. Owen saw them
+from a distance of many miles at sea, and the same phenomenon
+appears to the voyager as he coasts along the Gaboon shores, whilst
+the traveller in the interior finds the mountains assume entirely
+different forms.</p>
+
+<p>Finding an offset to this gorge from the north-west, we resumed
+our way, winding through the hills, and were encouraged to
+persevere by the sight of deep cracks and longitudinal fissures,
+with corresponding indentations in the rock. These evidences, on a
+small scale, of modern volcanic action, which are usually
+considered the preliminaries to the formation of a crater,<a id=
+"FNanchor_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a>
+were from one to two feet broad and from four to five feet deep,
+with a clean cut hardly weathered; they proved, however, to be
+extinct, nor could I detect in them any empyreumatic odour. At this
+place, too, appeared extensive deposits of a fresh lava, and
+curiously ropy filamentous basalt—Mr. Scrope compares it to
+barley-sugar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>—which
+appeared at first sight, from its long vesicular grain, to be the
+remains of a fossilized or imperfectly petrified forest. The colour
+was sometimes ochreish by oxidation, more often a dull black with
+the slightest admixture of green. In this form of lava exudation
+Professor Smyth discovered obsidian on the Peak of Tenerife.
+Somewhat disappointed by finding no vapour in the fissures, I
+crossed them, and, bending round to the S.S.E., ascended the slope
+upon whose crest M. Mann had placed his thermometers. It was about
+half a mile due north of the Victoria Mountain, and the B. P.
+thermometers showed 180°·2 (Fah.), temp. 62° = 13,129 feet, or 435
+feet higher than Victoria Mountain.<a id="FNanchor_99"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a></p>
+
+<p>The summit of Camaroons is thus eighteen statute miles of
+indirect, and thirteen geographical miles of direct, distance from
+Victoria.<a id="FNanchor_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100" class=
+"fnanchor">[100]</a> Assuming its altitude<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_205">[205]</span> in round numbers at 13,000 feet, it is 3000
+feet higher than Etna, the highest volcano in Europe, and 3300 feet
+below Mont Blanc, the highest European mountain. Situated in 4° N.
+lat., it is 3000 feet below the line of perpetual congelation,
+which, between the equator and 10° of N. or S. lat., is usually
+laid down at 16,000 feet. It must be observed that African
+mountains, like those of North America, are stunted in comparison
+with the gigantic size of the continent, and of its other
+geographical features—rivers, cataracts, lakes, and prairies. The
+peaks of Abyssinia, once so grossly exaggerated, have been reduced
+to 13,000 feet; and Miltsin, the loftiest of the Atlas, is now
+assumed at 11,400. According to those who distribute mountains into
+ten classes according to their heights—25,000 to 30,000 feet being
+No. 1, and 1000 to 3000 being No. 10—Camaroons Mountain occupies
+the sixth place, viz. those ranging from 12,000 to 14,000, as the
+Peak of Tenerife (12,180), the Jungfrau (13,730), and Ophir in
+Sumatra (13,840). Finally its phase is paroxysmal, neither
+permanently eruptive nor in a condition of moderate activity.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile Selim continued his course to the N.E., attracted by
+the glaring colours of the neighbourhood, a tricolor of white, red,
+and yellow, disposed in streaks along the perpendicular faces of
+dwarf cliffs, and conspicuous<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_206">[206]</span> in the brown and russet hues of its
+entourage. As my B. P. observation was ended, he appeared in hot
+haste, as he had seen something which justified even our risking a
+night, without any to assist in ‘a finding,’ in the open. Hurriedly
+I descended the chasm, climbed up the gay-tinted cliffs, and,
+turning a little eastward, emerged upon a Solfatara in full
+action.</p>
+
+<p>The site is on the northern counterslope of the high wall above
+Albert Crater—unfortunately the B. P. apparatus struck work for
+want of candle—a few feet below the summit, and in sight of the
+lower regions to the N.E. The surface of the <em>soufrière</em> is
+a convexity striated with alternate bands of bright green moss,
+white lime, and sulphurous marl, red and yellow. It was soft and
+yielding to the tread, and regular lines of smoke-jets and puffs
+rose in rings and curls from the stripes, somewhat like the
+Steamboat Springs in the Californian Sierra Nevada, or the vapour
+from the ‘narix’ of the Pico de Teyde. The flues smelled strongly
+of sulphur, and, though the wind blew cold and hard from the
+north-east, the thermometer, raised four feet above the ground,
+showed 52°, and many small birds, attracted by the genial heat,
+were hopping upon the green ground.<a id=
+"FNanchor_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101" class=
+"fnanchor">[101]</a> When there is much moisture<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> in the atmosphere the vapour
+must raise its fitful breaths in considerable volumes, and perhaps
+exhibit at night flashes of lambent flame.</p>
+
+<p>Here, then, was a discovery. Camaroons Mountain is so far
+<em>banale</em> that it follows the rule of other volcanoes in
+action, and rises in immediate proximity to the sea. On the other
+hand, it has the high distinction of being the only mountain on the
+body of the great continent whose fires have not wholly been
+extinguished, which still</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Spirat inexhaustum flagranti pectore
+sulphur.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Nor is there any cause to doubt that it will in
+some future time break out again. Though it lacks its pristine
+vigour of destructiveness, the vital principle is not extinct. It
+knows as yet none of those varieties of form and character which
+denote permanently-burnt out, or even of temporarily-quiescent
+volcanoes.<a id="FNanchor_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102" class=
+"fnanchor">[102]</a></p>
+
+<p>This Burning Field, with its escapes of volcanic breath,
+explains many a doubtful point. ‘From the present condition of the
+mountain’s surface,’ says Capt. W. Allen,<a id=
+"FNanchor_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103" class=
+"fnanchor">[103]</a> writing in 1842, ‘it must have been for ages
+in a condition of repose, though there is reason to<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> think it sometimes betrays its
+latent fires. Mr. Lilley, a trader who resides near the Camaroons
+River, says that he has seen flames near the summit. This might
+have been accounted for by the practice of the natives, who set
+fire to the grass in the dry season for the purpose of catching
+wild animals; but several of the principal natives of Bimbia
+declare that, about the year 1838, “fire came out of the ground.”
+They said “God made it,” in contradistinction from that caused by
+the burning of the grass.<a id="FNanchor_104"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> They all saw it, and at
+Mongo they felt the earth shake like a steamboat. The people feared
+that it would kill them all.’</p>
+
+<p>Africa suffers sadly from want of all classic associations; like
+America, she is yet sadly prosaic. No poet has sung the glories of
+this ‘pillared prop of heaven;’ no Proserpine has wandered over the
+Ennian fields below; Vulcan has no temple here, where he and his
+associates—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Brontesque Steropesque et nudus arma
+Pyracmon,—</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">are revered by man; no Ennosigæus shakes earth with
+infernal force; no Enceladus confined by Jupiter</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Interdum scopulos avulsaque viscera
+montis,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Erigit eructans, liquefactaque saxa sub
+auras,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Cum gemitu glomerat fundoque exæstuat
+imo.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span>Neither Plato
+nor Pliny ever visited our grand volcano, and the ‘fears and
+reverence of ages’ have yet to be expressed. It is not, however,
+wholly barbarous, having an antiquity of its own; and it is
+something for us to boast that we have carried out a discovery,
+initiated, I believe, by Hanno the Carthaginian in <span class=
+"sc2">B.C.</span> 600, and neglected until the present day.</p>
+
+<p>The following are the words of the Periplus (chap.
+xvi.):—Τέτταρας δ’ἡμέρας φερόμενοι, νυκτὸς τὴν γῆν ἀφεωρῶμεν φλογὸς
+μεστήν. Ἐν μέσῳ δ’ἦν ἠλιβατόν τι πῦρ τῶν ἄλλων μεῖζον ἁπτόμενον, ὡς
+ἐδόκει, τῶν ἄστρων. Τοῦτο δ’ἡμέρας ὅρος ἐφαίνετο μέγιστον θεῶν
+ὄχημα καλούμενον. ‘After a run of four days, by night we saw the
+land full of flame. And in the midst of it was a kind of lofty
+fire, bigger than the rest, touching, it appeared, the stars. This
+by day showed itself a very high mountain, called Theon
+Ochema’—<em>i.e.</em> the Vahana, or Vehicle of the Gods. There is
+absolutely no other mountain on the West Coast of Africa between
+Capes Spartel and Good Hope that suits this description, and,
+despite the discrepancy of the distance and the number of days
+which it occupied, the proximity of the Gorilla country determines
+the spot.</p>
+
+<p>And may not Dante—who, it will be remembered, distinctly
+described the Southern Cross—have borrowed from the Periplus of
+Hanno? Ulysses when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>
+tired, as might be expected, of the highly respectable but elderly
+Penelope, set out once more on his travels to become wiser in the
+wisdom of the world, of man’s vices and his virtues. He <em>passed
+through the Pillars of Hercules</em>, leaving the morning sun right
+astern; and made wings of his oars for the idle flight, always
+gaining upon the left: <em>i.e.</em> he started westward and turned
+to the south-west. <em>He beheld all the stars of the other pole,
+while their own was so low that it arose not out of the
+sea-floor</em>: <em>i.e.</em> he was somewhere near the Equator.
+‘Five times,’ he says, ‘the night had arisen underneath the moon,
+and five times fallen, since we put forth upon the great deep,
+<em>when we descried a dim mountain in the distance which appeared
+higher to me than any I had seen before</em>.’ We rejoiced, and as
+soon mourned, for there sprung a whirlwind from the new land (our
+N.E. wind?) and struck the foremost frame of our vessel, and</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Tre volte il fè girare con tutte
+l’acque,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">E la quarta levar la poppa in suso,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">E la prora ire in giù come altrui
+piacque,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Infin che ’l mar fra sopra noi
+richiuso.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Thus the adventurous explorer found himself in the
+Place paved with Good Intentions, where doubtless he met many of
+the confraternity of Master Shoe-tie.</p>
+
+<p>Before taking final leave of the Solfatara, I sketched the scene
+outstretched in wild magnificence, all desert<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_211">[211]</span> as the burnt-up moon, before us. Below
+my feet the counterslope fell rapidly, the angle being much more
+abrupt than the slope—hence the difficulty with which Messrs. Calvo
+and Mann had ascended it. On the right, looking to the E.N.E., the
+horizon was a vast conglomeration of peaks, and waves of ground
+already purpling in the obliquer rays of the sun. Beyond, the
+western end or left shoulder of this range, showed a long
+perspective of mountains rising in the distance; but their
+intervening depths and distances were concealed by volumes of
+fleecy cumulus. At the western foot of the main range, and far
+below the summit, rose a remarkable pyramidal formation, with
+well-defined faces, which M. Mann afterwards called Mount Dorothy.
+The hollow between Pico Grande and this south-western face of the
+Rumbi Mountains justifies Captain Owen’s description: ‘a plain,
+with several conical hills rising abruptly from the surface, and
+giving to the scene a novel and extraordinary appearance.’ And on
+the extreme left, looking to the N.W., and distant about half a
+mile, yawned a tremendous crevasse, or voragine, not unlike that
+immense ‘<em>caldera</em>’ which in fine weather appears upon the
+north-eastern side of Fernando Po Peak, a little below the clear
+ground capping the region of forest. Suboval in shape, it seemed to
+shelve down rapidly, and in places precipitously, from the plain in
+which it was sunk;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>
+and clouds issued from the ground seething and springing from its
+dark bosom like the smoke of a conflagration. Having now seen three
+sides of the Pico Grande, I was able to make a conjecture touching
+the local periphery of the compilation forming the main cone, which
+may be assumed to be about equal to that of Pico de Teyde,
+Tenerife.</p>
+
+<p>But the shadows deepening in the livid air warned us away. We
+hurried back to camp: in half an hour we found shelter under the
+lee of Mount Milnes, and at 6 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we were
+seated before a blazing bivouac-fire, where the immediate
+adhibition of hot porridge and grog effectually expelled the cold.
+M. Mann regretted that his precipitancy had prevented his seeing
+the Solfatara; he promised himself, however, a visit to it on the
+next day, when ascending the mountain to remove his thermometers.
+He probably missed the place, as he says, ‘I visited the
+chinks<a id="FNanchor_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105" class=
+"fnanchor">[105]</a> to ascertain the temperature in them, which I
+found to be <em>lower</em> than outside; no smoke issuing from
+them.’ It is hardly necessary to say that I had collected some of
+the burning sand and sulphur, of which a canister full was
+forwarded to the Geological Museum in Jermyn Street.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>The night was
+cross and noisy. A furious N.E. wind swept round ‘Arthur’s Seat,’
+and in its teeth, quaintly-shaped, ever-varying clouds—England,
+flying elephants, sitting children, spectres, saurians, and other
+monsters, vomiting many a flash of lightning—rose from the S.W.
+invading the sky. I had expected to find unusual whiteness and
+brilliancy in the heavenly bodies, to see each star shining like a
+planet, each planet like a little moon; on the contrary, they were
+exceedingly dim, though earth looked painted with Indian ink, and
+the peak shot up like a shadowy silhouette. Presently the umbral
+mass passed away from above our heads, and left exposed a canopy of
+open indigo-blue and black sky, the fittest for the formation of
+heavy dew. Our night was excited and disturbed, despite the
+soothing influence of ginger and rum. When we awoke the thermometer
+showed 32° 50′ (Fah.), and when we arose 37°. The white blankets
+were stiff, and our darker travelling rugs showed in places a thick
+icy deposit. When it is remembered that our lair was 2500 feet
+below the summit, it is clear that rain must on the peak often
+become snow, and that frost must prevail there all the year
+round.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 30th January we parted. M. Mann returned
+in light marching order to recover his thermometers; I resumed the
+road to camp,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> and
+took charge of the Krumen, promising to station some of them in
+readiness for my companion, with requisite necessaries, at our old
+nighting place on Mount Isabel. Setting out at 9 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, I occupied two hours in crossing little more
+than a mile;<a id="FNanchor_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106" class=
+"fnanchor">[106]</a> so cutting was the lava-bed, and tedious the
+operation of taping. After breakfasting on Mount Isabel we resumed
+our weary way—the advance on such occasions has its pleasures, the
+return is irksome. I had resolved to make a bend eastwards from
+Mount Helen, and to ascend the various peaks which range between
+that cone and the Three Sisters. But the weather pronounced an
+emphatic—No! Hardly had we passed Mount Selim than the storm from
+the S.W. was upon us: it broke with heavy thunder, drops the size
+of my thumb-nail, a sheet of water when the wind ceased; and
+lastly, as it veered round to the north, with hail the size of
+buckshot, which made us happy to take refuge under a natural grot
+of basalt.</p>
+
+<p>It was the worst day we had experienced upon the mountains. The
+surface became muddy and soppy, and in the myriad little pits
+formed between the grass tussocks, water stood in ankle-deep
+puddles. After a truly <em>mauvais pas</em> arriving at Mount
+Helen, and sorely longing for a ‘sketch’ of ‘something,’ I sought
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> Kruboys, but
+did not find them. The villains had taken leave from the clerk of
+the weather, and, privileged by the storm, had bolted for camp.
+Two-Glass was sent to recall them: meanwhile, wet—soppy wet,—cold
+and hungry, I waited vainly for two hours, and gave up all hopes of
+further exploration that day. Hardly, however, had we descended
+half a mile than the sky cleared, the sun shone fiery till we
+perspired, and the face of the country opened with beautiful
+distinctness. But it was now too late. Presently my three recreants
+were found about half way down the hill, stretched luxuriously
+before the hearth of heaven, and probably contrasting their wisdom
+with their master’s stupidity. But ah!—let them laugh who win.
+After an energetic scene, their lighter loads were placed on those
+who had not deserted me, and they were sent back to M. Mann for the
+night. They suffered more severely than I had intended. Not meeting
+M. Mann, and prevented by darkness from returning, they had passed
+the night without fire, and returned in the morning blue as nitrate
+of silver could have made them. They shook the head of contrition
+when asked—What cheer? and promised not to do it again, which
+promise they will keep until the very first opportunity of breaking
+it.</p>
+
+<p>A hot walk led us to camp: there is nothing more <em>triste</em>
+than a return home in Africa. All was foul<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_216">[216]</span> with a smell of decayed vegetation, which
+promised no good. Tom Bushman, the fellow in charge, pleaded sore
+feet—he had improved a little hurt till it became serious—for not
+sweeping; and the grass huts unexpectedly leaking, all our
+belongings were as wet as the forest. As more rain rose from the
+N.E., Selim and I lighted a fire. The Krumen sat perseveringly on
+their ‘hunkers:’ they were told—‘no work, no food;’ they were
+hungry, those inexplicable beings! yet all, except Black Beggar,
+the cook, went to bed supperless rather than bring in a few logs of
+wood.</p>
+
+<p>I was beginning to think that</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent12">Satis est requiescere lecto</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Si licet et solito membra levare
+toro</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Quam juvat immites ventos audire
+cubantem</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Et——!</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">and to feel for M. Mann, when his voice was heard
+in camp, which he had prudently preferred to the bivouac in the
+wilderness. He had removed his thermometers from Albert Mountain,
+fixing the maximum temperature 55°, the minimum 27°; and at the
+time of his return 35°. He had also boiled his thermometers at the
+base and on the summit of Mount Hooker, which he found to be 10,875
+and 11,725—a good check to our altitude-observations of the Cone.
+On the exposed N.E. of that mountain he found only a graminea; the
+sheltered S.W. side, however, was entirely clothed<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> with hypericum, ericinella,
+cytisus, and other shrubs. He had also passed a place where water
+stands for nine months in the year—a rare thing in these anhydrous
+formations where there is an utter absence of argillaceous
+substrata; and he had seen a beautiful white antelope pacing
+leisurely away from him at the distance of sixty or seventy
+yards.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc05">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90"><span class=
+"label">[90]</span></a>In the Old Calabar and Camaroons Rivers the
+boys are fond of eating a greyish clay brought up from under the
+water; I know not whether it contains organic remains.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91"><span class=
+"label">[91]</span></a>Four species of this herbaceous plant have
+been found at Fernando Po. The Proceedings of the Linnæan Society
+inform us that it is common in the hill regions of tropical Africa,
+and that only one species is known from Abyssinia and one from
+South Africa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92"><span class=
+"label">[92]</span></a>They must have been upwards of 14,000 feet
+high.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93"><span class=
+"label">[93]</span></a>Observations made on the well-known
+lava-beds of Mount Etna give about 1 inch of soil per century, 8
+inches in 450 years, and 1 foot in 600.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94"><span class=
+"label">[94]</span></a>According to the Proceedings of the Linnæan
+Society, this and two other leguminous plants (<i>Trifolium
+subrotundum</i> and <i>sinense</i>) found by M. Mann on Fernando Po
+Peak, are all essentially temperate forms growing upon the Canary
+Islands, but ‘hitherto unknown in tropical Africa, and known by one
+species only in Abyssinia.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95"><span class=
+"label">[95]</span></a>The observation at the base, however, was
+taken on the previous day at the very bottom of the cone, a much
+lower position than the place from which we taped. Stromboli, the
+type of a permanently active volcano, is an elliptical cone of
+nearly 3000 feet, rising from deep water with a crater at the
+summit, breached upon its weakest side; from this vent a plain
+steeper than the other sides of the mountain runs to the sea.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96"><span class=
+"label">[96]</span></a>Capt. Owen’s altitude of Camaroons Mountain
+is 13,760 feet; Mr. Saker’s (46 feet more), 13,806; mine (641 less)
+13,119. Mr. Saker’s boiling point at a place 150 feet below the
+summit was 188° (Fah.), temp. 59°. On the summit of Albert Mountain
+mine showed at 189°·2, temp. 62°. I prefer my own for this reason:
+M. Mann made the foot of Mount Hooker 10,875 feet, I the base of
+the Great Peak 10,530 feet, and taping up the slope found the cone
+to be 3300 feet long, thus rendering 13,800 feet too great an
+altitude. All, however, are mere approximations.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97"><span class=
+"label">[97]</span></a>Capt. Owen, vol. ii. chap. xxviii.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98"><span class=
+"label">[98]</span></a>Mr. Scrope (‘Volcanoes,’ Longman and Co.,
+1862) clearly explains how these fissures, injected by gas, steam,
+and lava from beneath, burst open at the weak points and thus form
+the circular or elliptical volcanic vent. The expansion and
+explosion of the pent-up steam, when coming in contact with the
+external air, is like the ignition of powder in a gun-barrel. The
+rocks, which are the walls of the fissure, are broken up and yield
+by the equal pressure on every side, and the character of the
+surface thus becomes approximately circular and elliptical where
+the sides of the fissure offer more resistance than its length.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99"><span class=
+"label">[99]</span></a>The regular gradation of the altitude
+observations speaks favourably for the correctness of my B. P.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100"><span class=
+"label">[100]</span></a>The stages are:—</p>
+
+<table id="t204">
+<tr>
+<td>1.</td>
+<td>From</td>
+<td>Victoria to Bosumbo</td>
+<td class="tdr">23,420</td>
+<td>feet.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>2.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Bosumbo to Mapanya</td>
+<td class="tdr">17,300</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>3.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Mapanya to Ridge Camp</td>
+<td class="tdr">6,000</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>4.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Ridge Camp to Black Crater</td>
+<td class="tdr">14,080</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>5.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Black Crater to Spring Camp (Earthwork Crater)</td>
+<td class="tdr">9,594</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>6.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Spring Camp to Mount Helen</td>
+<td class="tdr">7,814</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>7.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Mount Helen to Mount Isabel</td>
+<td class="tdr">8,648</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>8.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Mount Isabel to foot of Main Cone</td>
+<td class="tdr">10,232</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>9.</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>Foot to summit of Main Cone</td>
+<td class="tdr">3,300</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">Total</td>
+<td class="tdr bt">100,392</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="nind">This would be a little upwards of 19 statute miles,
+but it involves a détour to Saker’s Camp.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101"><span class=
+"label">[101]</span></a>Similarly on Tenerife the expiration of
+steam tempers the sharpness of the air and attracts a population of
+swallows, linnets (<i>Fringilla Teydensis</i>), bees, flies, and
+spiders: ‘a remarkable little colony,’ says Mr. Piazzi Smyth, ‘an
+oasis of life and activity in the midst of an elevated desert of
+lava.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102"><span class=
+"label">[102]</span></a>Thus Vesuvius in the dormant period between
+1139 <span class="sc2">A.D.</span> and 1306 <span class=
+"sc2">A.D.</span> showed chestnut groves and standing pools on the
+sides and at the bottom of the crater. These hanging woods are also
+to be seen in the largest crater of Fernando Po.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103"><span class=
+"label">[103]</span></a>Vol. ii. chap. ix.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104"><span class=
+"label">[104]</span></a>This accident also often takes place. On
+the 2nd February M. Mann saw the north side of the mountain on
+fire, and the conflagration became extensive.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105"><span class=
+"label">[105]</span></a>As has been seen, there were no chinks in
+the Solfatara. M. Mann probably alludes to the deep cracks in the
+lava-bed, where I had vainly sought for vapour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106"><span class=
+"label">[106]</span></a>More exactly, 6937 feet.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span><a id=
+"c06"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch1">RETURN TO FERNANDO PO.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">My</span> Christmas holidays were
+now done, and time was flying fast; the visit had been for a
+fortnight; it had lasted six weeks. After collecting some bouquets
+and pipe-sticks I apportioned the loads to the Krumen, who had been
+limping about camp like dogs on three legs, and looking as wretched
+as Lascars in the snows of London. By way of experiment Selim
+remarked audibly that the lame might stay till well with M. Mann,
+whilst the others returned to ‘Nanny Po.’ The effect was magical.
+Every back straightened; <em>jarrets tendus</em> were the rule;
+there was a forgotten elasticity of gait and movement; one would
+have said they had been ‘gingered’ for the occasion. We laughed at
+them and <em>with</em> them about their rascality. The African,
+whose paralysis of the moral sense seems to exceed that of the
+American, will always enjoy, if you do, the detection of a
+trick.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span>At 11·50
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, on Friday the last of January, 1862,
+after thirty-nine days from the 23rd December comfortably enough
+spent there, I left Spring Camp, and struck due north through the
+dense wood that flanked our late home. Taping delayed us till 3
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, and when we reached our
+nighting-place the Krumen had again been busy with the water: they
+were sent back to refill. In the evening I scaled Black Crater,
+ascertained that it was 7328 feet high, and was nearly swept from
+the summit by the furious wind. It afforded, however, a good view
+of the irregular group, the isolated masses above and around,
+especially Mount Eliza, one of the Three Sisters, which at the
+conjunction of the lava-field from above, and the forest clothing
+the mountain-flanks to the sea, was half above and half in the
+wood, the southern part and the crater being overgrown with dense
+trees. This comparatively open ground to the north would be highly
+advantageous for a settlement. Selim and I then revisited the
+little plain immediately below the volcanic platform, which had
+recommended itself to us as a sanitarium. The sharp wiry tussocks
+that covered the colder regions had here disappeared, and the
+continuous grass carpet promised a more genial temperature. Having
+visited the southern edge of the small plateau, where it bends
+towards the base of Little Camaroons, we retraced our steps with a
+profounder<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>
+conviction of the capabilities of the spot. On return we found that
+the Krumen had built their fire and had pitched my waterproof tent
+on the ledge below Black Crater, where our first hard night in high
+latitudes had been passed. The wild easterly gale, dashing itself
+in little whirlwinds against the dark cone, and eddying round it in
+furious gusts, soon saved them the trouble of striking; and
+presently we found below a sheltered spot with a few trees, more
+proper for a bivouac. The bees swarmed, probably attracted by the
+moisture under the cinders and scoriæ. In these milder regions they
+are fiercer than at Spring Camp. ‘Where there are bees there is
+honey,’ says the Asiatic proverb. We sought, however, but we did
+not find.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after we had turned in the wind fell almost to a calm.
+Exactly at 7·29 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> a flash passed
+through the crystal sky, and we saw a fiery ball crossing the
+heavens from south to north, leaving behind it a brush of light
+like the tail of a comet. Remaining distinctly visible for half an
+hour, after which its luminosity faded before the young moon, it
+enabled me to measure its angle with a sextant, which gave 30° 20′.
+It was the only example of the meteors which attracted Dr.
+Brydone’s attention on Mount Etna.</p>
+
+<p>We arose betimes on the next day; there was hard work before us.
+The dew was heavy in the ‘nest,’ and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_221">[221]</span> in the cool clear dawn the thermometer
+showed 46° (Fah.). Setting out at 6·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, we walked painfully over 2800 feet of the most
+rugged formation, broken and tossed about in chaotic masses,
+immediately at the vent of Black Crater. After passing the head of
+the fire current an easier descent began. We recounted six distinct
+ridges, breaks in the stream, with ‘drops’ sharper than elsewhere;
+but there may be sixty, if viewed from different points. In some
+places the torrent, strangled by its banks, was not more than 100
+feet; then, with all the accidents of a river, it would widen to
+100 yards. The heat overhead became painful, and the black charred
+wood and ashes under foot (the Krumen during their various journeys
+had burnt the bush) formed an excellent reflecting instrument.
+Lower down there were signs of rain in the soppiness of the soil;
+and the thick warm mists surging up from the caldron below rendered
+taking bearings anything but satisfactory. We crossed the stream,
+and rested at our old breakfasting place about 11 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> After boiling thermometers at Fern Gate, we bade
+adieu to the open fernery and plunged into the dense forest,
+bending to the S.S.E. The descent here was detestable: slides of
+clay, drops and falls, a cordage of llianas, and a network of
+tree-roots, made it longer than the ascent. It was 9·30 before we
+entered Mapanya.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>Old Balmat and
+the valiant Botani—we called him Sángo á Lobángo, ‘Lord of
+Lies’—met us in the grass lane outside the settlement, and seemed
+not to know what countenance to assume. I had made up my mind to
+night there, but, singer-like, required no end of friendly
+pressing, which was duly administered. My consent was given coyly,
+and only on condition that provisions, fuel, and water should be
+supplied reasonably. There was an attempt to extract cloth by means
+of firewood from the Mokárá:<a id="FNanchor_107"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> this, however, failed,
+and soon we saw at our feet a fowl, together with kokos and a large
+plantain-branch for the Krumen. The hut formerly occupied supplied
+us with ‘a refuge and a Bethel’ for the night. The air was cold,
+the hens would force their way to the wonted roosting-place, the
+hungry sandflies were unendurable to any but a pachyderm, and the
+bossy dirty floor caused hours of <em>insomnie</em>, which were
+devoted to eliminating the idea of a portable bed, chair, and
+table, all in one. It is offered gratis to travellers.<a id=
+"FNanchor_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108" class=
+"fnanchor">[108]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>On Sunday the
+2nd February I left Mapanya early, escorted <em>honoris causâ</em>
+by the chief Botani. Our pace was sharp, and after the sun had
+risen a spear’s length the air was something between the atmosphere
+of a Turkish bath and a London ballroom. The inhabitants of the
+several settlements on our way behaved very differently. Tátá, the
+chief of a little hamlet below Mapanya, actually ‘dashed’ me a
+fowl, which was carried off in triumph for Mrs. Saker at Victoria.
+At ‘Logo,’ a large clearing with nine huts near the Turu district,
+I found the Krumen, who had preceded us, standing with their loads
+at the edge of the bush. A fellow, armed with a musket and a sword,
+had levelled at them and caused the halt. His object was of course
+to make them cast their packs and fling themselves into the bush,
+under which circumstances the whole village would have turned out,
+and the matter would have become serious. By this time the Bakwiri
+had found out the Krumen to be perhaps greater cowards than
+themselves. They were, however, disappointed. My gang knew that the
+danger of being shot was problematical, but the punishment of
+desertion was certain. Selim and I travelled from<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> that place to nearly the foot
+of the mountain with cocked revolvers; and whenever a naked
+gentleman began to execute a war-dance, or to raise any more than
+justifiable clamour, he was easily persuaded to ‘make himself
+scarce.’ There were greedy looks as the line of bundles defiled
+past the settlements, and I thought it necessary to make special
+arrangements for M. Mann’s safe descent.<a id=
+"FNanchor_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109" class=
+"fnanchor">[109]</a></p>
+
+<p>Near Logo we passed on the right a little hut neatly built of
+new bamboos, and the doors were adorned with inverted T’s of white
+chalk. It was probably a meeting-house or lodge for the Dyengo, an
+initiation like the Jengo of the Camaroons River, which admits the
+Konja, or free-born, of both sexes.</p>
+
+<p>At 9·45 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> we made Bosumbo, where the
+drunken chief Myombi received us with a civility bordering upon
+servility. The water of the rivulet near this settlement was
+delicious after the moss-juice of Mapanya, which tainted even green
+tea. Resuming our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>
+march, we met in the lower slopes—it was market-day—long lines of
+women carrying on their backs and heads panniers and baskets of the
+produce of the bay, which had a very ancient and fish-like smell.
+The atmosphere of the forest became close and fœtid after the pure
+æther of the highlands; and the dense vegetation excluded even the
+searching ‘doctor,’ as the sea-breeze is called in these latitudes.
+The road was strewed with tonto, a red fruit eaten by monkeys, but
+not by Krumen. Thence we forded the little river, and at 2·30
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> we passed through the double palisade
+of tree-trunks which defends the new colony of Victoria Junior. My
+first steps were directed towards the Ethiopic Ocean, where,
+without the ceremony of disrobing, I walked straight in, compelling
+the Krumen to do the same.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Saker, who would not leave the place till she had seen us
+all return ‘safe and sound,’ received me with her usual kindness,
+and provided us with a boat for the Camaroons River. I left
+Victoria on the 4th February, 1862, with a sigh.</p>
+
+<p>Farewell, Camaroons! Farewell, beautiful heights! where so many
+calm and quiet days have sped without sandflies, or mosquitoes, or
+prickly heat. Adieu! happy rustic wilds! where I have spent so many
+pleasant weeks, even in West Africa. Adieu! and may adieu in this
+case bear all the significance of au revoir!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span>And now Victoria
+is shut in by the high hill-shoulders, the sentinel islands fade in
+the distance, the peaks wax more aërial, less earth-like,—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">Majoresque cadunt altis de montibus
+umbræ;</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">whilst a huge purple mist, belted with a fantastic
+zone of fleecy white cloud, drops its mysterious curtain upon the
+scene of my latest adventure.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc06">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107"><span class=
+"label">[107]</span></a>Mokara, plur. Bákárá, in the languages of
+this mountain and river means white man. May it not be the origin
+of the American negro’s Buckra man?</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108"><span class=
+"label">[108]</span></a>Its form is this: two pieces of usual deal
+plank 4 feet × 2—the sleeper’s legs need no care—connected by
+hinges of canvas, which are better than leather in these humid
+lands, with a batten crosswise under each end to raise it from the
+ground, and a hollow wooden pillow at one extremity. Thus placed
+upon the floor it is chair and bed. When acting as table it stands
+upon a strong St. Andrew’s cross, turning on central pivots and
+capable of being lashed to the plank when on the road. Those who
+object to its hardness as a couch have only to try the salient
+points of an African hut floor.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109"><span class=
+"label">[109]</span></a>The botanist left Spring Camp for Ridge
+Camp on the 13th of February, and at the latter place spent four
+days, of which two from heavy rain were lost for collecting. On the
+14th thunder lasted from 5 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> to 5
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, and ‘in the middle of the day it was
+so dark that the screech-owls and large bats left their
+hiding-places and announced their presence by their unpleasant
+cries.’ On the afternoon of the 17th, when descending, he met
+Messrs. Smith and Johnson, who had kindly ascertained that Botani
+had no unfriendly intentions. The next day he found Mapanya without
+trouble, reached Victoria at noon, left it on the 24th for
+Camaroons River, and returned to Fernando Po safely by the next
+steamer.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span><a id=
+"conc"></a><span class="letter-spaced01">CONCLUSIO</span>N.</h2>
+
+<p class="nind space-above15"><span class="sc">The</span> preceding
+pages will, I believe, have convinced the reader that the Camaroons
+Mountain is, unlike Fernando Po, highly adapted for a colony of
+liberated Africans, and for the Sanitarium now urgently required by
+Lagos and the Bights.<a id="FNanchor_110"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a></p>
+
+<p>The means of preparing the country for human habitation are
+ready to our hands. From the 45,000 refugee negroes in Canada, an
+ever-increasing pauperdom, it would be easy and economical to raise
+300 or 400 men with a suitable proportion of families. Instead of
+sending such persons by subscriptions to Yoruba, where, the ground
+being everywhere private property, they will meet with all
+disfavour, and where the climate is deadly, the emigrants can be
+settled, with equal benefit to themselves and to the white race, at
+Camaroons, whose native chiefs, few and far<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_228">[228]</span> between, are ever ready to sell ground
+for reasonable sums.<a id="FNanchor_111"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a></p>
+
+<p>After long thinking upon the subject and consulting with others,
+I venture to lay down—not dogmatically it is hoped—the conditions
+of success in such an undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>The classes preferred should be mechanics and artificers,
+lumberers and labourers; and even if a small sum per annum were
+given to each male by way of salary for the first year or two, the
+expenditure would not be wasted. But the best inducement would be a
+grant of land on the conditions that fair labour should be expended
+upon it, and that after the fifth year of residence and free tenure
+it should be liable to a small quit-rent for municipal purposes.
+The lots should not be extravagant, as they were in the old days of
+that Father of Failures, Sierra Leone. Three acres would suffice
+for a single man, five for husband and wife, and seven to ten for a
+family.</p>
+
+<p>The healthiest season for landing in this part of Western Africa
+is about May, at the beginning of the rains. As this would entail
+enforced idleness for six months, the colonists might be brought to
+Victoria between June and September, and placed in hulks
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> Ambas Bay, with
+light preparatory work during favourable weather till early
+November, when the dries are set in, and the labours of
+bush-clearing and road-making might begin. Thus it would be
+possible to avoid the terrible sickness that destroyed the pioneers
+at Sierra Leone and Bulama, and which gave to those places a
+permanent bad name.</p>
+
+<p>The colonists would require medical comforts and rations—rice
+and biscuit, beans and peas, salt pork and beef—for at least nine
+months: they would find fish in abundance and sometimes a few
+vegetables in the market. The superintendent should be furnished
+with a stock of cloth and knives, matchets and tobacco, to pay the
+natives of the country for service and supplies. Salt<a id=
+"FNanchor_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112" class=
+"fnanchor">[112]</a> should here, as throughout the Bights of Benin
+and Biafra, be made one of the great staples of trade. The sale of
+arms and ammunition and the purchase of slaves even for the purpose
+of manumission should be forbidden under pain of deportation. And
+there should be some limit to the introduction and the consumption
+of ardent spirits.</p>
+
+<p>The first work to be done would be to secure shelter ashore. The
+mainland contains, as has been shown, stone and wood only too
+plentifully, whilst the sea<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_230">[230]</span> offers coralline and madrepore for lime.
+But framehouses should be brought out from Europe or America, or
+there will be the same amount of sickness as that caused at
+Fernando Po by the refusal of the negroes to lodge the Spanish
+new-comers.</p>
+
+<p>The best position, I have shown, for the first settlement would
+be Mondori Island, at the mouth of Ambas Bay. The second would be
+Mount Henry, about two hours’ walk N.N.E. of Victoria Mission
+Establishment,<a id="FNanchor_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113"
+class="fnanchor">[113]</a> and about 1000 feet high. The third and
+last would be the clear and grassy country about Black Crater, 5000
+to 7000 feet above sea-level, and distant not more than ten miles.
+The great requisite at present is a corduroy road, practicable at
+all times of the year—the path is now a mass of swampy mud during
+the rainy season.</p>
+
+<p>After erecting the first habitations, the bush would be cleared
+after the fashion of the aborigines, by cutting down the underwood
+and thinning the trees,<a id="FNanchor_114"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> leaving the largest
+standing for shade and to break the force of the winds. Before the
+rains the clearings would be burned, and 400 acres roughly prepared
+for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> yam and koko,
+cassava and sweet potatoes, ground-nuts and Indian corn,
+bread-fruit and plantains, which produce after the first year. The
+palm-oil tree and the cocoa-nut are found growing wild in the lower
+altitudes; the only difficulty would be to protect them. European
+vegetables will thrive.<a id="FNanchor_115"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> After a time cacao might
+be made a source of wealth to the colony, and prepare the way for
+tobacco, coffee, and sugar. Live stock could be purchased in small
+quantities for herding purposes from the people, or it might be
+sent from England. Bullocks are fine animals upon these mountains,
+goats are excellent, sheep are tolerable, and ‘the impure’ abound.
+Poultry and pigeons are easily reared. The highlands, above 7000
+feet, are capable, as the footprints of large deer show, of
+becoming cattle-runs, and above that altitude they are admirable
+warrens, awaiting only rabbits. Asses and mules, when required for
+the sanitarium, could be procured at a moderate price from
+Tenerife.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the colonists, leaving the bleak and barren north, would
+soon be enabled to dwell under their own roof-trees in their own
+land. It is methinks erroneously said that Africa, who sends forth
+streams of population, vetoes by the deadliness of her
+climate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> the reflux
+of the West upon the East. The experiment is, however, worth
+trying, under favourable circumstances, and the success of the
+native establishment would be followed by a sanitarium equal to
+that of the Mahabaleshwar or the Neilgherry Hills in Western India.
+The colonists would enjoy full religious liberty and the means of
+normal education: the head-quarters of the Camaroons Mission are
+within an easy day’s boating, and there are already two native
+teachers at Victoria. By degrees the mail-steamers would visit once
+a month the new settlement—it is directly in their way between the
+Calabar and Camaroons Rivers, whereas they must make a détour to
+the island of Fernando Po. And, finally, the coal-depôt and the
+consulate would be removed from the starving Cove of malarious
+Clarence to a place of health and plenty. With which I
+conclude.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">A fin corona la obra.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftconc">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110"><span class=
+"label">[110]</span></a>During the winter of 1863 I was permitted
+by the ‘Times’ to show the advantages of Camaroons Mountain as a
+convict station, a Batavia, or a Loanda for English criminals. Here
+the place will be considered mainly with a view to a
+sanitarium.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111"><span class=
+"label">[111]</span></a>Above a certain altitude, certainly not
+exceeding 3500 out of 13,000 feet, the land is uninhabited and
+uncultivated; though claimed by King William of Bimbia, it can be
+bought for a nominal sum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112"><span class=
+"label">[112]</span></a>It is the most licit article of African
+commerce, its use causes an additional and increasing demand, and
+it benefits the people instead of demoralizing them, as the
+gunpowder, the muskets, and the pestilent rum of the trade have
+ever done.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113"><span class=
+"label">[113]</span></a>This settlement should be surrounded by a
+deep ditch and a strong palisade like Capt. Phil. Beaver’s at
+Bulama. The best form of house is lumber upon stone pillars, which
+admit a free current of air under the inhabited rooms.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114"><span class=
+"label">[114]</span></a>The present expense of felling a large
+trunk is 18 pence. A small and moveable saw-mill worked by
+steam-engine or water-power would make plankage worth only the
+price of labour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115"><span class=
+"label">[115]</span></a>The reader will conceive some idea of the
+Fernandian colonists when informed that there is not a kitchen
+garden—to say nothing of a flower garden—in the place. Selim, my
+factotum, found no difficulty in growing endive, onions, beans,
+cress, mustard, and a variety of European vegetables.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="space-above">
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor2">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor2.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center xlarge"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_233">[233]</span><a id="app"></a><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">APPENDI</span>X.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor2">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor2b.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span><a id=
+"app1"></a>APPENDIX I</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch2">Mr. Grazilhier’s Description of the Ambozes
+Country.</p>
+
+<p class="sch3">[Extracted from Barbot, <span class=
+"sc2">A.D.</span> 1678-1706.]</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">The</span> territory of Ambozes,
+which I said before is situated between Rio del Rey and Rio
+Camarones, is very remarkable for the immense height of the
+mountains it has near the seashore, which the Spaniards call
+Alta-Tierra de Ambozi, and reckon them as high as the Peak of
+Teneriffe. The coast runs from Rio del Rey to south-east; the
+little river Camarones Pequeno<a id="FNanchor_116"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> lies about five leagues
+from Rio del Rey; from it to Cape Camarones, the northern point of
+Rio Camarones Grande, the coast is low and woody—much more than it
+is from Little Camarones to Rio del Rey. This Little Camarones
+River is properly a branch of Great Camarones River,<a id=
+"FNanchor_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117" class=
+"fnanchor">[117]</a> and divides itself coming out from the latter
+into three branches, all three running through the lands of the
+Ambozes, into the Great Æthiopick Ocean; the principal of which,
+being the third river south-east of Rio del Rey, is called Old
+Camarones by the English. This third branch divides itself again
+into two other branches at a distance from each other, running to
+S.E. and S.S.E. into the Great Camaroon<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_236">[236]</span> River; and thus with the ocean form three
+islands in the territory of the Ambozes, wherein are the highest
+mountains, which extend near to the north point or head of Great
+Camarones; and at west and south-west of Old Camarones River are
+three round islands off at sea, two or three leagues<a id=
+"FNanchor_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118" class=
+"fnanchor">[118]</a> from the main, as lofty and high land as the
+opposite Ambozes hills. These islands are called by the Portuguese
+Ilhas Ambozes; the channel betwixt them and the main is seven
+fathoms deep, though from some distance off at sea they seem to
+touch the opposite continent, which is properly the effect of the
+immense altitude of the hills on either side of the channel; so
+that the biggest first-rate may sail through it with safety, the
+tide there running as the wind sets. The most northern island of
+the three lies four leagues from the Pescaria or fishery of Rio del
+Rey, and the most southern of them five leagues to the north of
+Cape Camarones, being the highest land of them all, and the
+largest; the other, which is the smallest, lies betwixt the two
+former. Though these little islands look but like large lofty rocks
+at a distance, yet they swarm with people,<a id=
+"FNanchor_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119" class=
+"fnanchor">[119]</a> and are so fertile—especially in palm-wine and
+oil—that the soil produces enough to subsist the inhabitants. It is
+surprising to find there such abundance of palm-trees, when there
+is not one to be seen on the opposite continent.<a id=
+"FNanchor_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120" class=
+"fnanchor">[120]</a> The sea about the islands abounds in many
+sorts of good fish, which is of great advantage to the islanders.
+The road for trading-ships is east of the most southern island. The
+inhabitants, for the most part, understand Portuguese pretty well,
+but are the worst Blacks of all<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_237">[237]</span> Guinea.<a id="FNanchor_121"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> They form a sort of
+commonwealth of the three islands, making continual descents with
+their canoes on the territory of Ambozes on the main, and get from
+thence in their incursions a vast quantity of provisions, and have
+no other commerce with those people. The territory of Ambozes
+comprehends several villages on the west of Cape Camarones, amongst
+which are those of Cesgis, Bodi, and Bodiwa, where there is a
+little trade for slaves and for accory.<a id=
+"FNanchor_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122" class=
+"fnanchor">[122]</a> The Hollanders trade there most of all
+Europeans, and export slaves for the same sorts of goods they use
+to import at Rio del Rey. The Blacks there have the same names for
+numbers as those of Camarones—one is ‘mo;’ two, ‘ba;’ three,
+‘melella;’ four, ‘meley;’ and five, ‘matau,’ &amp;c.<a id=
+"FNanchor_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123" class=
+"fnanchor">[123]</a></p>
+
+<p>The country of Ambozes is very fertile in all the sorts of
+plants and fruits of Guinea, except palm-trees, of which not one is
+to be seen, as I have already hinted; and to supply the defect of
+palm-wine they make a liquor for their usual drink of a certain
+root called Gajanlas, boiled in water, which is not disagreeable,
+and is, besides, a remedy for the cholic. They have great stores of
+poultry and other eatable animals, for which reason many European
+ships take provisions and refreshments there.<a id=
+"FNanchor_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124" class=
+"fnanchor">[124]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftapp1">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116"><span class=
+"label">[116]</span></a>Now called the Bimbia River.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117"><span class=
+"label">[117]</span></a>I doubt this, and believe them to have an
+independent origin.—R. B.s</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118"><span class=
+"label">[118]</span></a>Read miles.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119"><span class=
+"label">[119]</span></a>Now reduced to some 3000 souls.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120"><span class=
+"label">[120]</span></a>All this is changed. There are more
+palm-trees on the continent than on the islands.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121"><span class=
+"label">[121]</span></a>The same was said by Bosman of the poor
+timid Bubes of Fernando Po, and with equal justice.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122"><span class=
+"label">[122]</span></a>Aggri or Popo beads?—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123"><span class=
+"label">[123]</span></a>In the Isubu or Camarones dialect one is
+eoko or yoko; five, bitanu, subject to an alliterative concord.—R.
+B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124"><span class=
+"label">[124]</span></a>All this is also changed.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span><a id=
+"app2"></a>APPENDIX II.</h2>
+
+<p class="sch2">Mr. Merrick’s Tour in West Africa.</p>
+
+<p class="sch3">[Extracted from the ‘Baptist Magazine’ for
+1845.]</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Mr. Merrick</span> has lately
+visited the Camaroons Mountains, exploring a district of which very
+little was known, in order to ascertain facts respecting the state
+of the country and the condition of the inhabitants which might be
+of service in directing future operations. Believing that his
+account of his tour will be interesting to many of our readers, we
+abridge it but slightly:—</p>
+
+<p>‘Early on Tuesday morning, the 23rd April, Smith and I left our
+abode for John King’s Town, from whence we started with our
+travelling-party at half-past six for the Bwengga market.<a id=
+"FNanchor_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125" class=
+"fnanchor">[125]</a> Our band consisted of eleven men and boys as
+attendants and carriers: Copper, my interpreter; John King, my
+principal guide; Smith, and myself.<a id=
+"FNanchor_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126" class=
+"fnanchor">[126]</a> We were to have walked all the way, but, at
+the request of John King, I agreed to go as far as the Bwengga
+market by sea, with the understanding that, if spared, we should
+return by land. The passage to the market lies through a creek a
+short distance from King William’s Town, in a north-westerly
+direction; and the market is called Bwengga, after the district
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> which the people
+reside whose goods are sold at the market. We arrived at nine
+o’clock, and met a number of people from Bimbia and its vicinity.
+Not many of the people had yet come down from the interior, but
+several of those who had, resorted to the canoe in which I sat, and
+gazed on me with wonder and amazement. At twenty minutes to eleven
+I heard a rush, and, looking round, saw the people coming down to
+the market in a body. They approached with a trot, and hastened
+down the cliff to the canoes for the purpose of bartering their
+goods. The chief article was plantains, which were brought down in
+conical baskets fastened to the back by means of strings round the
+arms and forehead. I need hardly say that women were the principal
+carriers. About 200 came to market, among whom there were not more
+than about 20 men who carried loads; and those who did, had a much
+smaller proportion than the women. The plantains were bartered for
+a few dried shrimps and fishes. Having disposed of their goods, the
+people came up the cliff about twenty minutes after eleven, and,
+resorting to the spot where I was sitting, viewed me with perfect
+amazement. The simplicity of their manner formed a striking
+contrast to the proud bearing and mien of the Camaroons and many of
+the Bimbia gentlemen. It was with great difficulty that I obtained
+silence, which being done, I made known in a few words the object
+of my intended visit to the interior. I had spoken only a few
+sentences when one of the gentlemen remarked that the majority of
+the people who had come to market were very ignorant, that it was
+useless for me to speak to them, and that I had better wait till I
+reached the Bwengga district, and then speak to the gentlemen, who
+would listen attentively to all I had to say. I replied that, if
+they were ignorant, the good word which I intended to speak would
+make them wise. As soon as the poor women heard<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> this, they manifested their
+approbation by loud applause, and shortly after proceeded homeward,
+while I accompanied John King to his farm, which is in the vicinity
+of the Bwengga market. At a quarter after three our party left John
+King’s farm for the Bwengga district, and, after walking a short
+time along a track, reached the main road. This path—though walked
+over every five days by hundreds of people—is very narrow, and in
+many parts is a mere track. It runs for the most part through a
+thicket by which the clouds are frequently obscured, and as a walk
+is entirely devoid of interest. At five minutes before four we
+ascended a very steep hill, from which time the country became
+rather hilly. Five minutes after four we took a short rest, and
+proceeding on our journey ascended another steep hill at half-past
+four, from which we had a view of the sea, and, had it hot been for
+the mist, should, I understand, have seen Cape Camaroon.<a id=
+"FNanchor_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127" class=
+"fnanchor">[127]</a> At five o’clock we came in sight of a river,
+which John King informed me empties itself in the sea near his
+town. Here our whole party refreshed themselves with a good draught
+of water, which was very cool and pleasant. During our journey we
+passed two or three farms near the road, on which plantains are
+chiefly cultivated. I was informed by John King that a few people
+are living in the bush near the farms.</p>
+
+<p>‘At six o’clock we arrived at a group of houses, called by John
+King a town, when I discovered that Bwengga was not a large town or
+city, as I had all along imagined, but a district or a sort of
+county, in which are many towns.<a id="FNanchor_128"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> Our party sat down at
+this town to rest. Soon many of the children were around me, while
+some, afraid of a white face, remained at a distance with their
+eyes riveted on me.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span>‘After being
+regaled with a draught of palm-wine, our party proceeded onward,
+and, passing another town which consisted of four or five houses,
+arrived at our resting-place for the night at a quarter past six.
+The chief or master of this town is called Ebore, and, according to
+John King’s account, is his brother; but, during our journey, John
+claimed brotherhood to so many that it is difficult to say who are
+really related to him.<a id="FNanchor_129"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a> I, however, think that,
+if not his father’s or mother’s child, Ebore is a near kinsman. We
+met Ebore sitting on a stone near the door of his house, in
+conversation with one of his wives, who appears very fond of him,
+and for whom, I think, Ebore entertains much affection. Such
+reciprocal affection between husband and wife was to me very
+gratifying, as in my few short tours in Africa I have seldom seen
+it exhibited. The women are, for the most part, regarded and
+treated as the slaves of their husbands, who possess unlimited
+power over them, and do with them just what they please. When I was
+informed, on my arrival at Ebore’s town, that he was king of the
+place, I at first thought he was the ruler of the whole Bwengga
+district; but I soon discovered my mistake, and found that he was
+only king and ruler over his own wives and children. The mode of
+government in this part of Africa is strictly patriarchal. I was
+kindly received by Ebore, and, having seated myself near him, he
+began to expatiate on the great joy and pleasure which he
+experienced in being visited by a white man—an honour which he
+never expected, and which his father, though much more wealthy than
+he, never enjoyed. He admired also my fearlessness, and said that
+my heart must be very big, or I would never have come where a
+single white man had never before set foot. Shortly
+after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> my arrival I
+was saluted by the firing of muskets, not only at Ebore’s place,
+but at some distant town whose inhabitants must have concluded that
+I had arrived from the report of guns which they heard from Ebore’s
+town.</p>
+
+<p>‘After dinner—which consisted of palm-oil and fish and
+plantains, of which I ate heartily after my unusually long walk—I
+addressed the people, and endeavoured to point out as plainly as I
+could the way of salvation by Christ. My auditors listened
+patiently for a long time, and while I spoke Ebore frequently
+exclaimed, “Toto—mene! toto—mene!”—“True! true!” When I alluded to
+the folly of trusting to charms for deliverance in times of danger,
+he remarked that what I said was quite correct, for several men who
+had received charms to preserve them from danger and death had, to
+his knowledge, been shot, and that God alone could protect and
+save. At the close of my address, I sang, “Jesus shall reign,”
+&amp;c., and concluded with prayer. When I was ready to go to bed,
+I was conducted to a room about 10 feet long, 5½ feet wide, and 7
+feet high to the top of the roof. As my bed was placed across the
+room, my head lay against one side of the wall, while my feet
+reached the other side; yet I slept comfortably, and hope I felt
+grateful to God for having provided for me a shelter among the
+heathen.<a id="FNanchor_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130" class=
+"fnanchor">[130]</a> Ebore accompanied me to the room, and remained
+while I read a portion of Scripture and prayed, and during prayer
+knelt down. On rising from my knees, I told him my reasons for
+reading the Word of God and praying to Him before retiring to rest.
+As I found Ebore disinclined to leave the room, I undressed myself
+before him. He was quite surprised at the number of garments I
+wore, and viewed me from head to foot till I got into bed.<a id=
+"FNanchor_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131" class=
+"fnanchor">[131]</a></p>
+
+<p class="datesect"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_243">[243]</span>‘Wednesday, April 24.</p>
+
+<p>‘As soon as the door of my room was opened this morning, Ebore
+came to pay his respects, and addressed me “Sanggwosu”—the term
+used by servants when speaking to their masters. Before breakfast I
+read and explained to Copper and John King, both of whom speak and
+understand English, the second chapter of Matthew. Ebore came in
+while I was reading, and heard from John King and Copper what I
+communicated to them. After explaining the Scriptures, I showed
+Ebore the views of our Jamaica chapels, and told him of the
+affection which the people of God in Jamaica entertained for the
+African race. He listened with much attention and astonishment when
+I told him of the vast sums of money subscribed by the Christian
+world for the benefit of Africa, and said that if the people of God
+did not love them they would never act in that manner.</p>
+
+<p>‘After breakfast John King and Copper, Smith, and I, proceeded
+to the town of a man called Futa, and sometimes Madiba—a short
+distance to the south-east of Ebore’s place. On our arrival we
+learnt that he was not at home, but would soon return. I afterwards
+discovered that he was at the back part of his house, and directed
+John King to tell me he was out, intending while we walked a little
+way to dress himself. After a short walk to another town, where
+Mundere, the brother of Madiba, resides, we returned to Madiba’s
+house, when he made his appearance in a cloth round-jacket, a
+pretty wrapper, and a blue gossamer-hat. He was rather reserved and
+formal, but listened with attention to the truths which I declared.
+From the appearance and mien of Futa, I concluded that he was a man
+of influence and generally respected, and have since discovered
+that my conclusion was quite correct. Madiba’s town is situated on
+a beautiful plain on the top of a hill. One of his houses is
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span> large one
+compared with the houses of the other chiefs, and is very well
+constructed. He is evidently an ingenious man, and with a little
+instruction would make an excellent carpenter.</p>
+
+<p>‘While at Madiba’s house I tendered my hand to a man who refused
+to shake it, and, on inquiring the reason, learnt that the man had
+recently lost one of his relations, and that the people in the
+interior never shake hands with their dearest friends for a certain
+time after the death of a near relative. John King asked a question
+to-day which shows the necessity of explaining figurative language
+when employed in instructing the people. He inquired whether by
+giving the heart to God I meant a man was to cut out his heart. He
+next inquired whether God had a wife, and while I was speaking of
+the blessedness of Heaven, he asked how it could be a “good good”
+country when the people who lived there did not eat?<a id=
+"FNanchor_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132" class=
+"fnanchor">[132]</a> I explained to him that the spirit was not
+supported by food—that the body alone required food for its
+sustentation, and that after death the spirits of those who
+believed in Christ would live in the enjoyment of the knowledge and
+love of God. In returning to Ebore’s town we walked another way,
+and passed the town of an old man named Dume, who appeared very
+glad to see me. My soul was distressed when I thought that he would
+probably die before the Gospel could be fully and properly
+explained to him.</p>
+
+<p>‘I saw several women at Ebore’s town engaged in making palm-oil
+to-day. The palm-nut, or fruit, is first boiled, after which the
+part which contains the oil is separated from the kernel, and
+rolled up in small balls, from which the oil is extracted by
+twisting it with the fingers. A great deal of oil<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> is left in the husk, which,
+with suitable machinery, might be entirely extracted. We were to
+have proceeded on our journey to-day, but Ebore would not allow us
+to do so. In the evening I conversed again with the people about
+Christ and his salvation, when Ebore remarked that he believed God
+had sent me among them to teach them good things, and that he would
+willingly sit up all night to hear me. Before retiring to rest I
+made Ebore a present of cloth and other things, for which he
+expressed himself very grateful. Ebore is about forty years of age,
+of the middle stature, but appears short, in consequence of a bend
+in the back. His appearance is not calculated to command respect,
+but there is in him a great deal of real kindness, connected with
+humility, which cannot fail to excite the affections of those that
+may become acquainted with him. There is, I fear, but little
+firmness in his character, which would render him an unfit person
+to depend upon in times of trouble or danger.</p>
+
+<p>‘Unlike Ebore, Futa seems a man of great firmness and decision
+of character. His manner and bearing, though the reverse of pride,
+are much calculated to call forth respect, and, with his property
+(for he is considered wealthy), will render him influential
+wherever he goes. Futa is about the same age as Ebore, perhaps a
+little older; of the middle stature, and rather slender, but well
+made.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Thursday, April 25.</p>
+
+<p>‘We were to have proceeded this morning to the Sofo district,
+but yesterday evening we heard that an influential and wealthy old
+man in the Moriko district, named Manja, had made grand
+preparations for my reception, and sent to say he hoped I would not
+fail to call on him. As John King thought it prudent for us to
+visit Manja, we left for his place at twenty-five minutes after six
+this morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span>‘Shortly after
+leaving Ebore’s we passed three small towns, and crossed a small
+stream called Waugge, running from the west. Indeed, all the rivers
+which we saw and crossed in our journey flowed from the north-west.
+At a quarter after seven we crossed a beautiful stream about thirty
+yards wide, called Ben-yua, in which a large artificial basin was
+formed of stones, for the purpose of securing fishes. Our road at
+this point lay through a thick bush, and is evidently an
+unfrequented path. At fifteen minutes to eight we entered the
+Bore-pamba district, and passed Mbumbo’s town. Three minutes after
+eight we passed another stream, called the Ndunggu, and shortly
+after saw a small farm, on which maize, cocoa,<a id=
+"FNanchor_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133" class=
+"fnanchor">[133]</a> and peas were growing; passed the towns of
+Korame, Mukwure, Malape, and Monyunggo, and entered the Bakuku
+district; passed the town of Masu, and at five minutes after nine
+arrived at Manja’s town, in the Moriko district,<a id=
+"FNanchor_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134" class=
+"fnanchor">[134]</a> and seated myself under a tree, where old
+Manja in a short time came to see me. He was dressed in a large
+great-coat, which would have sat much better on a man twice his
+size. His hand was quite hidden by his large garment, so that when
+he presented it to me I had to shake his sleeve. I had not been
+seated long before I was informed that two gentlemen from
+Bwea,<a id="FNanchor_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135" class=
+"fnanchor">[135]</a> one of the last districts on the way to the
+Camaroons Mountains, had come down to see me, having understood
+that I had come for the purpose of visiting the mountain. I
+exceedingly regretted that, whenever the people asked John King the
+object of my visit, he always informed them that I<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> was going to the mountain,
+which led them to think I was in quest of treasures. Indeed John
+King himself did not believe that the sole object of my visit was
+to make known the Gospel of Salvation and find out the most
+eligible districts for establishing missionary stations.<a id=
+"FNanchor_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136" class=
+"fnanchor">[136]</a> After a few minutes’ conversation with Manja
+he left, but soon returned with a goat as a present. I directed
+John King to have it killed for our party, and began to declare the
+Gospel to the people who surrounded me; but they seemed more
+desirous to gaze upon me and make a noise than to listen to the
+solemn truths I was declaring. At breakfast I endeavoured again to
+engage the people’s attention, but could not get them to listen for
+any length of time. They were, however, quite delighted with an
+Isubu lesson, which I took with me for the purpose of teaching the
+children as I passed along, and were exceedingly astonished when I
+exhibited my watch.</p>
+
+<p>‘Many people from other districts resorted to Manja’s place to
+see me; some, I learn, from a distance, to whom I explained the
+object of my visit. In the afternoon Copper and I walked to the
+town of Junge, a short distance west of Manja’s place, where I
+conversed for some time about the Great Salvation, and instructed
+the people from my Isubu lesson. They called my watch the moon, and
+said I was indeed a God-man, for I had gone up to God, and brought
+down the moon with me. On my return from Junge’s place Smith and I
+took a long walk, and spent a sweet season in conversation about
+the universal dominion of Christ. Since my arrival in Africa,
+nothing administers more joy to my soul than reflection or
+conversation respecting the entire subjugation of the nations of
+the earth to our Divine Redeemer. Indeed, if<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_248">[248]</span> missionaries would be strengthened for
+their work, they must at all times keep the cheering truth before
+their minds. John King informed me this afternoon that the men who
+came from the Bwea district said they would not conduct me to the
+town without being well paid; but on finding that I evinced no
+anxiety for going thither they left, with promise of meeting me at
+Manja’s town early in the morning. African travellers must pay
+little attention to the talk and noise of the people, but act with
+kindness, firmness, prudence, and justice. Before going to bed I
+made old Manja a present of cloth, &amp;c., with which he was quite
+pleased. I also distributed some needles among the women and girls,
+and clothed three of Manja’s children, who were not a little
+delighted with their new garb.</p>
+
+<p>‘Both at Ebore’s and Manja’s place I distributed some English
+peas, which were kindly sent me by the St. Albans friends. When at
+Camaroons I also distributed some of the same peas, and have no
+doubt that by this time many of the Diwalla people have reaped a
+crop.<a id="FNanchor_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137" class=
+"fnanchor">[137]</a></p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Friday, April 26.</p>
+
+<p>‘We were to have left Manja’s town early this morning, but were
+detained by heavy rains till twelve o’clock, when we proceeded on
+our journey. At twenty-five minutes after twelve we entered the
+Bokwei district, and at the same time passed the town of Mamunde.
+Shortly after we passed Morio’s town. At one o’clock the country
+became very hilly. We arrived at Dickenye’s town at half-past one,
+which is situated in the Bwea district. I was kindly received by
+Dickenye, who appeared very happy to see me, and, like Ebore, dwelt
+for a long time on the great honour bestowed on<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span> him by the visit of a white
+man. I, however, soon discovered that great suspicions were
+entertained respecting my intended visit to the mountain; and John
+King, in order to learn the real object of my visit, took Smith
+aside, and questioned him closely on the subject. Shortly after my
+arrival Dickenye told John King that there were immense treasures
+on the mountain; that on the death of any influential person in the
+Bwea district they had frequently seen cloths of every description
+spread out on the mountain; that there was a great deal of
+gunpowder, salt, and dollars on the mountain;<a id=
+"FNanchor_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138" class=
+"fnanchor">[138]</a> and they thanked John King for bringing me to
+show them how to obtain the treasures. There was also a “large
+water” on the mountain, where a white man was often seen, and which
+no black man could pass; that they sometimes heard the report of
+guns fired by the white man; that that white was my brother, and I
+had come to see him and fetch him down from the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>‘In vain I endeavoured to persuade them that the sole object of
+my visit was to impart the knowledge of the true God, and to learn
+whether they were willing to receive religious teachers. During the
+day I embraced every opportunity of declaring the Gospel, but, like
+those of Manja’s town, the Bwea people were more desirous to sing
+and dance and make a noise than attend to what I had to say. In the
+afternoon several chiefs came to see me. After they had listened to
+the truth a short time, Dickenye, who is an incessant talker, began
+to address the people, after which he danced<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_250">[250]</span> about, and endeavoured to appear very
+great. He was followed by another man, who wore a sort of tippet
+made by himself. He also delivered an address, and, like Dickenye,
+danced and sung, and capered about amidst the applause of the
+surrounding multitude. As evening approached, John King informed me
+that all the gentlemen of the district were to assemble after dark,
+in order to come to some decision respecting the charge they were
+to make for allowing me to visit the mountain. Accordingly we had a
+meeting in one of Dickenye’s houses in the evening, when all the
+gentlemen strenuously maintained that there were incalculable
+treasures on the mountain, and that John King had brought me to
+obtain them. I replied that many of them would on the morrow
+accompany me to the mountain, and would have an opportunity of
+seeing all it contained, and that whatever I might bring down they
+were at perfect liberty to retain. During my short life I have met
+many great talkers, but never before heard so garrulous a man as
+Dickenye. He seems never tired of chatting, and will scarcely allow
+any one else to speak a word. None but those who have been engaged
+in an African palaver<a id="FNanchor_139"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> can form a correct idea
+of its tediousness. When you imagine that the subject in debate has
+been brought to a close and about to be settled, all on a sudden
+you find yourself at the point from whence you started, and the
+objections which you had before answered, again brought forward as
+if they were entirely new. This was the ordeal through which I had
+to pass at Dickenye’s place; and what rendered it more trying was
+my ignorance of the language, and consequent dependence on John
+King and Copper for an interpretation of all that was said. The
+palaver<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span> being
+closed, I returned to rest, after commending myself and our party
+to the Divine protection, and as usual slept well.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Saturday, April 27.</p>
+
+<p>‘We were to have started before daylight, but could not manage
+to get away before fifteen minutes before seven. It is very
+difficult to get an uncivilized African band to travel early. On my
+arrival at Dickenye’s I was informed that his town was the nearest
+to the mountain in the Bwea district, and I discovered this morning
+that my information was not correct. Shortly after leaving
+Dickenye’s we passed three towns, all near each other, and arrived
+at the last town on the way to the mountain at a quarter after
+seven. At this time we saw a road to the south, which I was
+informed leads to Rumby. At fifteen minutes to eight we arrived at
+a river flowing from the north-west, in a south-westerly direction.
+At this point there was a sensible change in the atmosphere. I
+drank of the water of the river, whose bed was very rocky, and
+found it delightfully cool. Near the river is a small abandoned
+farm, which was formerly cultivated by some of the Bwea people.
+Before visiting the interior I thought the people spent a great
+deal of their time in agricultural pursuits, but was surprised
+during my journey to see so few farms, and those so much neglected.
+All the plantain-farms I saw were covered with grass and bush. Like
+those on the coast, the people in the country live a life of almost
+absolute idleness. They do not set the smallest value on time, and
+prefer spending days and weeks in hunting (though they not
+unfrequently return home as empty as they went out) to cultivating
+the soil. May they soon come under the influence of that Gospel
+which so strongly condemns idleness, and inculcates the necessity
+of industrious habits! But to resume our<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_252">[252]</span> narrative. At eight o’clock the Bwea men
+who had accompanied me stopped to perform a ceremony called
+Mosere.<a id="FNanchor_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140" class=
+"fnanchor">[140]</a> Dickenye’s brother Bunggome, with a mug of
+water in his hand, delivered an address to the following
+effect:—“That the Moriko and Bwengga men were unwilling that the
+Bwea people should engage in trade with Bimbia, but that John King
+had kindly brought a white man to see them, who he hoped would open
+a communication between the coast and the Bwea district.” After the
+address a libation was poured out on the ground, and the remainder
+of the water in the mug drank by all who had engaged in the
+ceremony. I requested John King to say to them that the good word
+which I had spoken to them was calculated to unite all people in
+one common bond; and if they and the Moriko and Bwengga people
+attended to it, instead of opposing each other in trade, they would
+live as brethren, and do all in their power to promote the welfare
+of one another. They appeared quite pleased with my remarks, and
+proceeded on the journey with smiling countenances.</p>
+
+<p>‘A few minutes before the Mosere ceremony was performed we
+crossed a fine stream, whose water was very cold. At twenty minutes
+before ten we arrived at another river-course, destitute of water,
+except a small portion (rain-water, I suppose) in hollows of rocks,
+and which reminded me of the pools of rain-water from which the
+Israelites were wont to refresh themselves in their journeys to the
+Holy City. Our whole party took a long draught of water here, as we
+were given to understand that we should meet with no more during
+the remainder of our journey. Ten minutes before ten we had an
+excellent view of the sea. Perhaps it is necessary to<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> observe that the whole
+district through which we passed is very well furnished with hard
+wood. The wood is so hard that the Bwea men, not possessing proper
+axes, are unable to fell the trees for the purpose of making farms.
+Eight minutes after ten we passed the last farm of the Bwea people
+on the way to the Camaroons Mountains. On this farm is growing the
+finest piece of cocoa I have seen since my arrival in Africa. I was
+rather surprised that the Bwea people should cultivate farms so far
+from their towns, and thought they must have good reason for doing
+so; and on inquiry found that they were in the habit of spending
+whole weeks in the woods hunting the ngika, or buffalo, and during
+that time cultivated the soil in the vicinity of the chase.
+Twenty-five minutes before eleven the brother of Dickenye,
+perceiving that we were drawing near the mountain, broke a small
+bush, and, holding it in his hand, prayed aloud to his dead father
+and mother to protect him from danger in approaching the mountain.
+I directed John King to tell him that Obassa Luba<a id=
+"FNanchor_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141" class=
+"fnanchor">[141]</a> (the name by which the Deity is called) alone
+could afford him help, and that his petitions should have been
+presented to him. On hearing this he began to cry to Obassa Luba
+for help. The evident fear of the people as they drew near the
+mountain led me to conclude that they had never before travelled so
+far, though they wished to make me believe that many of them had
+before ascended the mountain. At twenty minutes before eleven, we
+arrived at a beautiful plain extending along the base of the
+mountain a considerable way. This plain is covered with a fine
+wing-grass, some of which I brought down as a memorial of my visit.
+A quarter before eleven we had an extensive and splendid view of
+the sea, rivers, and lowlands from the plain<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_254">[254]</span> at the base of the mountain. We saw very
+distinctly Balimba point and river, and a little eastward the
+Bakuku, Munggo, and Bunji rivers and country.<a id=
+"FNanchor_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142" class=
+"fnanchor">[142]</a> At ten minutes after eleven our band sat down
+on the grassy plain to hold a consultation as to whether they
+should ascend the mountain, at whose height and majestic aspect
+they were manifestly alarmed. While with wonder and awe they gazed
+upon the grand and lofty fabric, Smith observed that, if they were
+so alarmed at beholding the works of the Almighty, what would be
+the state of their mind when they beheld the Almighty himself on
+the Judgment-day? John King, who had all along spoken of his
+determination to go to the very apex of the mountain, declared that
+he could not proceed further; while the Bwea men said it was
+useless to accompany me if no treasures were to be obtained. I
+reminded them that I had agreed to pay them to go with me, and, if
+they broke their engagement, they could not expect payment. At
+length ten of the Bwea men made up their minds to accompany me, and
+with Smith, Copper, and myself, started for the much-dreaded
+Munggo,<a id="FNanchor_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143" class=
+"fnanchor">[143]</a> as the mountain is called in the Isubu tongue.
+With much difficulty we ascended about a third of the mountain at
+six minutes after one, where it was so cold that I judged it unwise
+to proceed higher with men who had only a piece of cloth around
+their loins. This, with other reasons, induced me to descend the
+mountain before reaching its apex, though I must confess I did so
+very reluctantly. At the elevation on which I stood I experienced
+all the sensations produced by an English winter. My nostrils ran
+copiously, my eyes were much affected, and my fingers stiff. The
+faces of my attendants were covered with a sort of white
+incrustation,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> such
+as may be seen on the skins of black men in England during winter.
+Their eyes were also much affected, and Dickenye’s brother had a
+fit of ague, and trembled like an aspen-leaf. The mountain after a
+certain height (perhaps from about the sixth of its altitude from
+the base) is entirely covered with a fine and beautifully green
+grass, with here and there a few shrubs. The soil is composed of
+small pieces of soft stone, which have evidently been subject to
+the action of fire, and which frequently crumbled or resigned their
+places as the weight of our bodies rested upon them in ascending.
+From the point on which we stood we had an excellent view of the
+lowlands and the different rivers in the Bight of Biafra. We began
+to descend the mountain about a quarter after one, and arrived at
+the grassy plain at ten minutes before three, from whence, though
+much fatigued, we immediately proceeded homeward. When we had
+nearly reached our resting-place the Bwea men assembled, and agreed
+to tell the people on their arrival that there were immense
+treasures on the mountain, but that I had resolved on not taking
+them till my return, when I would bring another white man with me.
+On hearing this I requested John King to undeceive the people, and
+let them know the truth. At fifteen minutes after five we arrived
+at the last town on the way to the mountain, and eight minutes
+after six reached Dickenye’s town, our resting-place. In returning
+the Bwea men sang the greater part of the way, and seemed very glad
+that no harm had befallen them on their way to the mountain. One of
+their songs was to the following effect:—“The white man cut down
+the grass,<a id="FNanchor_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144" class=
+"fnanchor">[144]</a> and told it to stand up. The grass replied,
+How can I stand? you have cut me down.” My feet ached so much at my
+long and difficult journey that I could hardly<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_256">[256]</span> stir, but a good night’s rest refreshed
+my wearied frame, and rendered me strong again for duty.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Lord’s day, April 28.</p>
+
+<p>‘I spent a pleasant time this morning in instructing several
+children and young people from my Isubu lesson. They exhibited
+considerable pleasure in spelling the words of their language, and,
+though they spent more than a quarter of an hour at their lesson,
+did not appear tired. Finding that the adult people were more
+inclined to drum and dance than listen to the Gospel, I left
+Dickenye’s town after breakfast and, accompanied by John King, went
+to see a very old man named Ibungge, who had been sick for a long
+time, and intelligence of whose death arrived at Bimbia a few days
+ago. I endeavoured to preach salvation by Christ to him and his
+people, but fear the old man did not comprehend what was said to
+him. I saw a woman this morning with her face besmeared with dirt,
+and a band of the fibre of the plantain-tree round her forehead,
+which I learn is the usual badge of mourning of the people of the
+district. The Bimbia women do not wear the band round their
+foreheads, but besmear their faces for several months with a
+mixture of dirt, lampblack, and palm-oil.</p>
+
+<p>‘About two o’clock to-day a man from the Boba<a id=
+"FNanchor_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145" class=
+"fnanchor">[145]</a> district came to see me, and listened very
+attentively to the truths which I declared to him. Dickenye
+introduced him to me, and sat for a short time. I had not, however,
+spoken long before he began to interrupt me; but finding that I
+would not attend to him, and was determined to go on conversing
+with the Boba man, he left the hut, and called away his friend, but
+he would not go. As the Boba man defended the practice
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> polygamy, I
+dwelt much on the evils of it, and assured him it was very
+offensive to God. After the departure of the poor man I learnt that
+he had recently shot a man for seducing one of his wives, and had
+in consequence to desert his house, and hide himself in the woods.
+According to a rule or law, called Dibumbe, every man from Bimbia
+to the Camaroons Mountains, and also on the Mungo and Bunge rivers,
+and I believe at other places, who commits murder, is given up by
+his townspeople to be hanged.<a id="FNanchor_146"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a> While speaking to the
+Boba man, little did I think I was pointing out the evils of the
+very sin which had compelled him to leave the few comforts of his
+home to wander in the woods.</p>
+
+<p>‘As in South Africa, there are men in the Bwea district and in
+other parts of the country who profess to be able to produce rain.
+John King firmly believes in the pretended power of the
+rain-makers, and strenuously maintained that they did possess the
+power, notwithstanding all I could say to convince him to the
+contrary.</p>
+
+<p>‘I understood this afternoon that the chief men of Bwea, and
+especially Dickenye, are entertaining large expectations respecting
+the presents they are to receive before my departure. They told
+John King that he, King William, Dick Merchant, and the other
+traders of Bimbia, had received large presents to allow me to visit
+the interior, and now I had seen their mountain, John King did not
+wish me to give them anything. The covetousness of the people is
+exceedingly trying and distressing, and, with vainglory, exhibits
+itself in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> almost
+every word and action. Oh that the time may speedily come when
+their selfishness will be subdued, and their hearts renovated by
+the Divine Spirit!</p>
+
+<p>‘About three o’clock Smith and I sang a hymn, read a portion of
+Scripture, and engaged in prayer, in which we specially implored
+the Lord to visit the dark places of the earth with the light of
+His glorious Gospel. Smith and I conversed much with Copper to-day
+about the necessity of a change of heart. It is very gratifying to
+me to be able to state that light seems gradually shining upon this
+man’s mind. He has already abandoned a few of his country
+practices, and will, I hope, be given to us as the first-fruit of
+our labours. When I resolved on visiting the Camaroons Mountains, I
+fully expected difficulties in the way. True, I did not entertain
+the slightest apprehensions of personal danger, yet I by no means
+imagined that my path would be a smooth one. Indeed from the day of
+my arrival at Bwea, I plainly foresaw that we should meet with
+opposition before our departure. It was not to be expected that
+Satan would sit quietly and see one of his strongholds attacked
+without retaliation. But greater is He that is for us than they who
+are against us. The prey of the enemy will yet be plucked from his
+teeth, and the kingdom of Christ established where Satan’s empire
+now raises its proud and lofty head.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Monday, April 29.</p>
+
+<p>‘I arose unusually early on Monday morning, and spent a sweet
+season in prayer. My soul was much drawn out in behalf of the
+heathens in general, but more particularly for Africa. I felt,
+while supplicating the Mercy-seat, that the Lord was preparing my
+mind and strengthening my spirit for some trial. When our baggage
+had been packed up, and we were ready to leave, I presented
+Dickenye and three of the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_259">[259]</span> chief men at Bwea with cloth, garments, and
+other things; but they were quite dissatisfied, and said they would
+not allow our boxes to be taken away unless I gave them more cloth.
+I knew well that, if I yielded to their unjust exaction, instead of
+being satisfied, they would be encouraged to make other demands,
+and consequently declined giving anything else. On hearing this
+they made a great noise, and seemed determined to detain us.
+Several of the men were armed with cutlasses, and during the
+palaver flourished them about (not however in a threatening
+manner), but the Lord graciously preserved me from fear, and kept
+my mind in perfect peace. Oh what a blessedness to be able to rest
+on the arms of Him who is powerful to save! Not one of our party
+had a weapon of any description. On leaving Bimbia, I strictly
+enjoined John King not to carry guns, swords, or cutlasses,
+assuring him that God, whom I loved and served, and whose truth I
+was going to declare, would protect and preserve us; and I have no
+doubt that our defenceless state tended more to disarm the Bwea
+people than anything else.<a id="FNanchor_147"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a> I do hope that all our
+missionaries who may come to Africa will be members of the Peace
+Society. After a long and noisy discussion, in which John King,
+Copper, and a few others of the men who conducted me, nearly talked
+themselves out of breath, the Bwea men withdrew and held a private
+consultation. At this juncture Smith became alarmed for our safety,
+and on my return from the mountain told Mr. Ducket that he was just
+waiting to know the result of the conference of the Bwea men, and,
+if they had resolved on killing us, he intended to request them to
+destroy him first, that he might not endure the pain of seeing me
+put to death. Smith’s fears were, however, quite groundless. I do
+not think that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span> the
+people had the remotest intention of hurting a hair of our heads.
+All they wanted was the contents of our boxes, and, not being able
+to frighten me into submission, they withdrew to come to some
+decision respecting the mode of bringing the palaver to a close.
+They soon returned, and said that, as I was unwilling to give them
+more cloth, they would be satisfied with a book (certificate)
+stating that I had visited the mountain from their district, in
+order that they might show it to any white man that might come
+after me. I very soon furnished the ‘book,’ when our carriers were
+permitted to leave, but we had only walked a short distance when
+one of our people was stopped by Dickenye’s brothers, because he
+said he had not received a shirt. The fact is, this man took a
+fancy to Smith’s flannel shirt, and requested me to give him one
+like it. On leaving I borrowed Smith’s flannel, and gave it to him,
+but after receiving it he was quite dissatisfied, and said he
+wanted a shirt similar to those the other chiefs had received, but,
+as all of that description were distributed, I could not comply
+with his request. He was, however, determined to get a shirt, and
+therefore followed us after we left his brother’s town, and stopped
+one of the boxes; Copper directly drew off his shirt and gave it to
+Bunggome, but took good care to secure for himself the flannel
+shirt, which is of more value than the one with which he
+parted.<a id="FNanchor_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148" class=
+"fnanchor">[148]</a> We left Dickenye’s town at twenty-five minutes
+before eight, and after passing a town in the Bwea district entered
+the Bokwei district at half-past eight; and after leaving the towns
+of Morio and Namunde, entered the Bakuku district at five minutes
+before nine, and arrived at Junge’s town at two minutes before
+nine. We again reached Manja’s place at seven minutes after nine.
+The old man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>
+appeared happy to see me, and pressed me to remain over the night,
+expecting no doubt another present in the event of my doing so; but
+I told him I could not by any means stop, as I was anxious to get
+down as early as possible.</p>
+
+<p>‘After breakfast our party prepared to leave Manja’s town, but
+one of his men, who had accompanied us to Bwea, stopped our boxes,
+because he had not in his opinion been sufficiently remunerated for
+his services. This man was not at all engaged by us, but, contrary
+to my desire, was sent by Manja to accompany us to Bwea. On my
+return to his town I made him a suitable present, but he would not
+allow us to proceed till he had received some cloth. During my
+journey I had to protest against people following me from different
+towns, who desired to do so, without at all being required, for the
+purpose of getting something. Unless the African traveller is
+watchful, he will at the end of his different journeys find many
+more servants in his employ than he set out with. Manja did all in
+his power to prevent Singga from stopping us, but such is the small
+influence and power of the old chief that he could not succeed.</p>
+
+<p>‘At twenty minutes before two we left Manja’s town, and,
+travelling through the Bakuku district, passed Mokeba’s town at
+five minutes before two, and at two crossed a small stream. It is
+perhaps necessary to note here that all the streams which we
+crossed to-day were small. Crossed a stream at twenty-eight minutes
+after two. At half-past two left Pende-Dikoba’s town. Crossed a
+stream twenty-five minutes before three, and another at twenty
+minutes before three, called Wangge, and entered the Bunjoku
+district.</p>
+
+<p>‘At five minutes after three passed Ekanye’s town, and shortly
+after that of Ebisa. There is a small house a few yards from the
+latter town. The road in this district is much better than any I
+have travelled over since I left Bimbia.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>‘At ten minutes
+before four entered the Bunjumba district, and passed the town of
+Ipike. At three minutes before four passed in sight of Dibesse’s
+town, near which is that of Matande.<a id=
+"FNanchor_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149" class=
+"fnanchor">[149]</a> Crossed a stream called Wende at five minutes
+after four. At ten minutes after four passed in sight of Ngake’s
+town, and entered the Minyarri-Munggo district. Eighteen minutes
+after four we passed three towns together. The names of the chiefs
+are Dikri and Ngande. A short distance from these towns we passed
+in sight of the house of Ekuba-Kuba, and a few minutes after passed
+the town of Musio.</p>
+
+<p>‘At half-past four arrived at a town whose chief, Dibutu Lanja,
+had died three days ago. The usual funeral ceremonies were being
+performed when we arrived, which were exceedingly ill adapted to
+the occasion. From five to six hundred people were assembled on an
+oblong piece of ground, and, amidst the noise of drums and the
+greatest confusion, danced up and down in the most ludicrous
+manner. A group of ten met together, and raising up their right
+hand struck it against the hand of each other till the ceremony of
+striking hands had been performed throughout the whole group.</p>
+
+<p>‘On my arrival I was conducted to the house of a man called
+Foke, a short distance from the scene of the funeral ceremonies,
+lest, as I was told, my presence should attract the attention of
+the people, and thus put an end to their mirth. Many followed me,
+to whom I showed the letters of the alphabet, and my Isubu lesson.
+My watch as usual was quite an object of wonder and amazement.
+Unable to obtain a sight of me, some of the boys, Zaccheus like,
+climbed on trees to gratify their curiosity. Being anxious to see
+the whole of the funeral ceremony, I got up to walk to the
+place<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> where the
+people were dancing, but Foke would not allow me to go. However,
+shortly after, Madiba, whose town I visited before going to the
+Camaroons Mountains, and to whom I have already alluded, came up,
+and, taking me by the hand, conducted me to the scene of action,
+and thus afforded me an opportunity of seeing all that was going
+on. I had not sat long before the man who was to succeed the
+deceased chief made his appearance in a soldier’s coat. A man held
+an umbrella over his head, and followed wherever he went. In a
+stooping posture the new chief ran among the crowd amidst the
+caressing of several young women, striking hands with all who
+presented theirs to him.</p>
+
+<p>‘After a great deal of noise and dancing, silence was commanded,
+when Madiba, being master of the ceremonies, arose to speak, but
+before he commenced his address he picked up a pebble, and spitting
+upon it, placed it under his foot, and then walked up and down the
+avenue, speaking as he walked along. He said that Dibutu Lanja had
+died three days ago, and had left so many pieces of cloth (I do not
+recollect the number), pigs, sheep, and goats, and that during his
+illness two of his goats had been killed for him. Madiba having
+finished his address, several of the people exclaimed, “He, he,”
+yes, yes; shortly after which the party began to disperse.</p>
+
+<p>‘I understand that on the death of a chief or master of a town,
+all his property, which generally consists of cloth, pigs, goats,
+and sheep, is distributed among his relatives and friends, and
+nothing is thought so honourable to a man as to be able on his
+death to leave a great deal of property for distribution. All the
+cloth which Dibutu Lanja possessed was on his death exhibited to
+the public for inspection, but was taken in before my arrival. I,
+however, saw his pigs, sheep, and goats, all of which were tied to
+stakes placed in the ground for the purpose.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span>‘At the close of
+the ceremonies, Copper, Smith, and I left for Ebore’s town, where
+we intended to sleep. Madiba on his way home walked with us a part
+of the road, and was very attentive and affectionate. On leaving us
+he inquired whether I did not intend to come and see him on the
+morrow. I promised to do so, and told him, in Isubu, as I best
+could, that I hoped he would love God, and give Him his heart. As I
+walked along, I began to think that the kindness and affection
+manifested by Madiba that evening (so contrary to his reserve and
+apparent sullenness when I visited his town a few days ago),
+proceeded from God, who I thought was moving his heart to favour
+us. I there resolved, if I saw it my duty, to ask him for some land
+on which to establish our first missionary station at Bwengga,
+which is a well-populated district, and where the inhabitants are
+not so widely scattered as in other parts of the country. The
+attention of our missionaries, as soon as they settle in the
+interior, must be directed to the concentrating of the population,
+or their work will be considerably increased. It will of course be
+a work of time, but with perseverance will I hope be effected.</p>
+
+<p>‘We left the town of the deceased man at fifteen minutes before
+six, and, after crossing a stream and passing three towns, arrived
+safely at Ebore’s place at about half-past six. Our dinner
+consisted of ripe plantains, palm-oil, and palm-nuts, after which
+we retired to rest thoroughly wearied.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Tuesday, April 30th.</p>
+
+<p>‘The selection of a place in the Bwengga district for the
+establishment of a station pressed much on my mind all the morning.
+Ebore is very willing to give land, and would be glad to see a
+missionary settled at his place; but his town is situated on an
+unfrequented spot, and is therefore ill adapted for a missionary.
+On the contrary, Madiba’s town is near<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_265">[265]</span> the highway which leads to the Bwengga
+market, and consequently is the resort of many people.</p>
+
+<p>‘After making Ebore another present, our party left his town at
+fifteen minutes before one, and proceeded to Madiba’s. On our way
+we crossed the stream which we passed last evening on our return to
+Ebore’s place. This stream supplies Madiba’s town and the adjacent
+ones with water; it is very small, and I was fearful that during
+the dry season it ceased to flow, but Copper informed me that it
+never dries.</p>
+
+<p>‘I met a very warm reception from Madiba on my arrival, and,
+after a short conversation respecting the object of my visit, I
+gave him an excellent wrapper and a child’s garment. I then stated
+that I was desirous, if agreeable to him, to establish a missionary
+station near his town for the purpose of imparting to him and all
+the people of the district the knowledge of the true God, for I
+well knew that unless they became acquainted with God, and served
+Him with their hearts, they could neither be happy in this life nor
+after death. I then inquired whether he would give me land on which
+to build, &amp;c. He most readily assented to my proposition, and,
+requesting me to follow him, showed me the land which he would give
+when we were ready to settle. I suppose he walked over ground about
+the sixth of a mile in length, and, pointing to the right and left,
+said, “This is yours—this is yours.” On our return to Madiba’s
+house I requested Copper to tell him plainly that he and his people
+were not to expect presents from the God-men who might come to
+reside at his town—that we did not intend to trade, but that our
+sole object was to impart religious instruction. Madiba replied
+that he heard what I had said, and would communicate the
+intelligence to all the people. Shortly after, he asked John King
+whether, like some of the white<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_266">[266]</span> men who came to Bimbia to trade, I was in
+the habit of beating black men; and on being told I was entirely
+different from such men, he said he believed so, or I would not
+have brought them such good news respecting a future state.</p>
+
+<p>‘With earnest longings for the enlightenment and conversion of
+Madiba, we left his town at three minutes before five, and eleven
+minutes after five entered the Bunjo district, and passed the towns
+of Bepingge and Bomani, which are very near each other. Seventeen
+minutes after five we arrived at Mekwalle’s town. This man is the
+father of Bepingge and Bomani, and is the most healthy individual
+in that part of the country. He is advanced in age, and according
+to the course of nature cannot be far from the gates of death. I
+explained to him the objects of my visit, and requested him to
+assemble his people, which he readily promised to do after dinner.
+At the appointed time about eighty people assembled, and listened
+very patiently to the solemn truths of the Gospel, but would not at
+all believe that Christian teachers would in time settle among
+them. I am not at all surprised at their incredulity, for,
+unacquainted as they are with the benevolence which the Gospel
+inculcates, it cannot but appear an anomalous thing that people
+should leave their country and come to reside among them, not for
+the purpose of gain, but only to do them good.</p>
+
+<p class="datesect">‘Wednesday, May 1.</p>
+
+<p>‘Early this morning Madiba came to see me, and evinced much
+affection. May the Lord move his heart to favour the missionaries
+who may settle in his district, and not only so, but renew his
+mind, and adopt him into His family!</p>
+
+<p>‘At seven o’clock our party left Mekwalle’s town. Five minutes
+after eight we passed a large farm in the Bunjo district. Indeed,
+from this time till half-past nine, we<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_267">[267]</span> passed a number of farms, some of them
+rather extensive. The country in this district is well wooded.</p>
+
+<p>‘Ten minutes before nine we entered the Mobeta district. Seeing
+one of our carriers with a few plantains, and knowing that he had
+taken them from the farm through which we were passing, I mentioned
+the circumstance to John King, in order that he might speak to the
+man about the impropriety of taking what was not his; but learnt
+that any person in passing a farm may, if hungry, take a few
+plantains, or canes, or any other edible, without being regarded as
+a thief.</p>
+
+<p>‘At fifteen minutes before ten we came in sight of a large
+stream running in a south-easterly direction, called Kumbe. The
+river and country in its vicinity reminded me much of the Bog Walk
+River in Jamaica, and induced a few thoughts respecting my dear
+native country. Twenty-five minutes before eleven we crossed the
+stream just alluded to, which is about forty yards at the fording.
+A splendid settlement might be formed on the banks of this river.
+The country is well wooded, the soil excellent, and there is
+abundance of water.</p>
+
+<p>‘Ten minutes after twelve we crossed a stream. Near the fording
+was a beautiful waterfall. The fall is about twenty feet, and at
+the landing of the water there is a basin about sixty yards in
+circumference.</p>
+
+<p>‘Twenty-five minutes before one we entered the Gijanga district,
+and crossed a small stream called Musunggu. Ten minutes before one
+we came in sight of another creek, and crossed a small stream which
+flows into the creek. We arrived at Bupe’s town in the Gyangu<a id=
+"FNanchor_150"></a><a href="#Footnote_150" class=
+"fnanchor">[150]</a> district at eight minutes after one. There are
+three towns near each other in this district, whose chiefs are
+called Bupe, Ngeke, and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_268">[268]</span> Ekeme. Shortly after entering the Mobeta
+district I discovered that John King, in order to arrive home
+to-day, had passed through a wood; so that from the time we left
+Mokwelle’s town in the morning, we did not see a single person till
+we arrived at the Gyangu district, which is situated on the coast,
+a short distance north of King William’s town. The sea being too
+high to enable us to walk along the beach to Dick Merchant’s town,
+from whence there is a road or tract to King William’s place, our
+party got into a canoe, and returned home by sea.</p>
+
+<p>‘We arrived safely at King John’s town about half-past four,
+where I met Mr. Ducket on his way to Macko’s town to instruct the
+people, and was thankful and happy to find him in good health and
+spirits. On reaching King William’s town the children ran from all
+directions to greet me, and seemed very glad that I had returned in
+safety. I assembled them in the house, sung one of their
+school-songs, and dismissed them with prayer.</p>
+
+<p>‘Thus, my dear sir, I have endeavoured to furnish a brief, and I
+fear an uninteresting, account of my tour. The grand object of my
+visit has, however, been attained, and with that I am satisfied. I
+have discovered that the way is opened for the introduction of the
+Gospel from Bimbia to the Camaroons Mountains, and, I have no
+doubt, much further in the interior. Land has been received for the
+establishment of our first station, where I hope myself to settle
+in a short time, and from whence the glorious Gospel will yet
+diffuse itself far and wide, not only among the Isubu tribes, but
+among other nations of Africa. May the great Head of the Church
+qualify us for our work by imparting every necessary grace and
+gift! I need hardly tell you that much devolves on our dear friends
+in England, Jamaica, and other parts of the world, where they know
+and experience the blessedness<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_269">[269]</span> of the Gospel. Oh, that the Church may
+always be found at her post, and daily become more diligent and
+zealous in this best of all works! I cannot too strongly press upon
+the Christian public the necessity of furnishing garments for
+distribution in Africa. Our female friends in England and Scotland
+have already exerted themselves nobly in this benevolent work, but
+I hope they will continue to send other supplies from time to
+time.</p>
+
+<p>‘I must not forget to mention that one of the most pleasing
+facts which I learnt in my journey was, that there were very few
+slaves in that part of the country. When the people were at one
+time very noisy at Manja’s place, I requested John King, if
+possible, to command silence. His reply was, “Oh, what a pity all
+the people in the bush are free!—we cannot get them to be quiet
+when we like.” The information made my heart leap for joy, and
+rendered the noise far less disagreeable than I at first considered
+it.</p>
+
+<p>‘The districts I have visited are to the north-west of Bimbia. I
+expected before now to have seen several others to the south-west,
+but the arrival of dear brother Clarke on the 1st instant, with the
+house which was given him by the Jericho people, and which is being
+erected here, has hindered me from carrying my intention into
+effect, my time being now occupied in looking after the
+building.’</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftapp2">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125"><span class=
+"label">[125]</span></a>Up the Bimbia or Little Camaroons River,
+turning to the left (ascending) on the mountain-side.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126"><span class=
+"label">[126]</span></a>Every soul dead—after twenty years or
+so!—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127"><span class=
+"label">[127]</span></a>It is on the left or west of Victoria
+Bay.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128"><span class=
+"label">[128]</span></a>The same is the case with Bosumbo, Mapanya,
+&amp;c.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129"><span class=
+"label">[129]</span></a>In Africa, as in India, any fellow-tribeman
+is a brother.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130"><span class=
+"label">[130]</span></a>Polite to his hospitable hosts!—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131"><span class=
+"label">[131]</span></a>So the Morocco women say of their European
+sisters that they dress in rags.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132"><span class=
+"label">[132]</span></a>These two questions are most
+characteristically African. They can hardly believe in a non-eating
+or non-marrying being, which to them becomes a nonentity.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133"><span class=
+"label">[133]</span></a>I presume the Colocasia esculenta.—R.
+B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134"><span class=
+"label">[134]</span></a>‘The Moriko and Bakuku district is the
+same, but is called by two names.’ [I much doubt this.—R. B.]</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135"><span class=
+"label">[135]</span></a>It is high up and to the east of the
+mountain, which the Bwea people, who are now on bad terms with
+those of Mapanya, cross to the west. M. Mann’s cowardly Krumen ran
+away probably from a Bwea man.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136"><span class=
+"label">[136]</span></a>During our ascent the report was that we
+were finding silks, cloth, wire, beads, &amp;c.—gold and silver are
+unknown here—on the Camaroons. Thus only could the people explain
+our visiting it.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137"><span class=
+"label">[137]</span></a>They probably never took the trouble to sow
+them.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138"><span class=
+"label">[138]</span></a>Note by Mr. Merrick.—‘Whenever an Isubu
+(Bimbia) man dies, all the cloth he possesses is spread out on the
+housetop and exposed to public view. In accordance with this custom
+the Bwea men think that the genii of the mountains entertain so
+much respect for their chiefs as on their death to exhibit a
+variety of cloths.’</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139"><span class=
+"label">[139]</span></a>Conference.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140"><span class=
+"label">[140]</span></a>It is a wild custom not known to the
+Duallas of the Camaroons River.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141"><span class=
+"label">[141]</span></a>Obásí, God—plur. Báobásí—á, of; and Lobá,
+heaven.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142"><span class=
+"label">[142]</span></a>There are also towns of this name on the
+east of the mountain.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143"><span class=
+"label">[143]</span></a>Prop. Moonggo, plur. Mionggoo.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144"><span class=
+"label">[144]</span></a>‘Alluding to the plants which I brought
+down with me.’—M.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145"><span class=
+"label">[145]</span></a>‘This district is some distance to the
+north of Bwea.’—M.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146"><span class=
+"label">[146]</span></a>Dibombe is an Isubu statute, which
+originated a few years ago in a dream. One Mfá má Ile, a man of the
+Ekombi district inland and north of Bimbia, saw a vision in which
+many dead men warned him of the evil of murdering or maiming, and
+that the bush people were to hang or wound the criminal only, not
+his innocent relations. The wholesome law is now, I fear, in
+abeyance.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147"><span class=
+"label">[147]</span></a>Our party found it very different.—R.
+B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148"><span class=
+"label">[148]</span></a>The shirt is still a favourite present: it
+makes a gentleman.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149"><span class=
+"label">[149]</span></a>This shows the size of the ‘towns.’—R.
+B.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150"><span class=
+"label">[150]</span></a>Generally called Jángí.—R. B.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span><a id=
+"app3"></a>APPENDIX III.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch4"><span class="sc">Enumeration</span> of the
+<span class="sc">Mountain Flowering Plants</span> and <span class=
+"sc">Ferns</span> collected by M. <span class="sc">Gustav
+Mann</span>, Government Botanist, during his various ascents of the
+Camaroons Mountains, of Clarence Peak, Fernando Po, and of the Peak
+of San Thomé. By J. D. <span class="sc">Hooker</span>, M.D., F.R.S.
+and L.S., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<ul class="simple4">
+<li>The figures denote the elevations at which the species were
+found.</li>
+
+<li>F. signifies Fernando Po.</li>
+
+<li>C. <span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Camaroons
+Mountains.</li>
+
+<li>S. T. <span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Peak of
+San Thomé.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<table class="padded2" id="t270">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Clematis simensis, Fres.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Thalictrum rhyncocarpum, A. R.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ranunculus pinnatus, Poir. var.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Stephania hernandifolia, Wall.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cardamine hirsuta, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Africana,
+var.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Viola Abyssinica, Steud.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-1,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Pittosporum Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Polygala tenuicaulis, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td>Silene Biafræ, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cerastium vulgatum, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Stellaria drynarioides, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Arenaria Africana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sagina Abyssinica, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-11,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Drynaria condata, Willd.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hypericum angustifolium, Lamk.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Radiola millegrana, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Geranium Emirnense, Hils. and Boj.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>Geranium
+Simense, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">20</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> favosum,
+Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oxalis corniculata, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Impatiens Sakeriana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> filicornu, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 4-5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Clausena inæqualis, Benth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Brucea antidysenterica, Mill.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gomphia micrantha, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ilex Capensis, S. and H.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Vitis cyphopetala, Fres.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Schmidelia Abyssinica, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">30</td>
+<td>Adenocarpus Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Trifolium subrotundum, St. and Hoch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Simense,
+Fres.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Indigofera atriceps, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Desmodium strangulatum, W. and A.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 2-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shuteria Africana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dalbergia, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Rubus apetalus, Poir.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Alchemilla tenuicaulis, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Pygeum Africanum, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">40</td>
+<td>Tillæa alsinoides, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> pharnaceoides,
+Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> pentandra,
+Royle</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Umbilicus pendulinus, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Crassula Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kalanchœ Ægyptiaca, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mukia, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bryonia, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. <span class="blank">&nbsp;</span>?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hydrocotyle, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Americana,
+L.?</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td>Sanicula Europæa, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Agrocharis melanantha, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Pimpinella oreophila, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Peucedanum Petitianum, A. R.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9-9,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anthriscus Africanus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Paratropia Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> elata, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span>Loranthus
+oreophilus, Oliv.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Baconia montana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ixora</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">60</td>
+<td>Vignaldia occidentals, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anthospermum asperuloides, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 10-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Galium rotundifolium, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> aparine,
+L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Scabiosa succisa, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 10,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Vernonia myriantha, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> blumeoides, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Clarenceana, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Stengelia nobilis, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 2-5,000-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> insignis, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Adenostemma viscosum, Forst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 2-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">70</td>
+<td>Mikania chenopodifolia, Willd.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Microglossa densiflora, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dichrocephala latifolia, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced13">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+chrysanthemifolia, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced13">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> oblonga, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 10,700</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Blumea alata, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Verbesina monticola, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Telekia Africana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Helichrysum Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-13,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> fœtidum,
+Cass.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">80</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Hochstetteri,
+Sch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> chrysocoma,
+Sch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-11,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> globosum,
+Sch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Biafranum, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gynura vitellina, Bth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 2-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Senecio Clarenceana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-11,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 25-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Bojeri, D.
+C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Burtoni, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lactuca Capensis, Th.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">90</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> glandulifera,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sonchus angustissimus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anisoramphus hypochæroides, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-13,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>Wahlenbergia
+polyclada, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> arguta, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cephalostigma Perottetii, A. D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lobelia columnaris, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> acutidens, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Leucothoe angustifolia, D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Blæria spicata, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 10-10,700</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">100</td>
+<td>Ericinella Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-11,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ardisiandra Sibthorpioides, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mæsa Indica, A. D. C.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Myrsine melanophlœos, Br.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anthocleista scandens, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nuxia congesta, Br.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sebæa brachyphylla, Griseb.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Swertia pumila, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Clarenceana, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 6-10,700</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">110</td>
+<td>Cynoglossum micranthum, Desf.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> lancifolium,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Myosotis stricta, Link.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Limosella aquatica, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Veronica Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,700</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Africana, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sibthorpia Europæa, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Celsia densifolia, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Alectra Senegalensis, Roth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bartsia Abyssinica, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">120</td>
+<td>Sopubia Madagascariensis, Roth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Plectranthus glandulosus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> insignis, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> ramosissimus,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> decumbens, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Coleus glandulosus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 2,500-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> tenuicaulis, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5-6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Pycnostachys Abyssinica, Fres.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Micromeria punctata, Br.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">130</td>
+<td>Calamintha Simensis, Br.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>Nepeta robusta,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Stachys aculeolata, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Leucas deflexa, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> oligocephala,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Solanum nigrum, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Indicum,
+L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Discopodium penninervium, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Utricularia orbiculata, Wall.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Plantago palmata, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">140</td>
+<td>Rumex Abyssinicus, Jacq.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> obtusifolius,
+L. var.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Polygonum Nepalense, Meism.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Achyranthes argentea, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cyathula cylindrica, Moq.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lasiosiphon glaucus, Fres.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Peddiea parviflora, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Thesium tenuissimum, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Euphorbia ampla, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Phyllanthus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">150</td>
+<td>Claoxylon Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Parietaria Mauritanica, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. F. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> debilis,
+Forst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. <span class="blank">&nbsp;</span>?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Laportea alatipes, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Elatostemma monticola, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Pilea quadrifolia, A. Rich.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Myrica salicifolia, Hochst.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lecanthus Wightii, Wedd.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Urera <span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Peperomia Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">160</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> monticola, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Coccobryon Capense, Kl.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Podocarpus Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. <span class="blank">&nbsp;</span>?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Liparis Capensis, Lindl.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bolbophyllum tenuicaule, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 4-5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> monticolum, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> aurantiacum,
+n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5-6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span><span class=
+"word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> bifarium, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">170</td>
+<td>Angræcum arcuatum, Lindl.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 4-6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Polystachys Alpina, Lindl.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced12">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span></td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Calanthe corymbosa, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Disa alpina, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">180</td>
+<td>Peristylus 3-dentatus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Habenaria debilis, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> attenuata, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> microceras, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> præalta,
+Lindb.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Trichonema bubocodium.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Geissorhiza alpina, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 9-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hypoxis villosa, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-7,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Melanthium tenue, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">190</td>
+<td>Commelyna, n. sp.?.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cyanotis Abyssinica, A. Rich.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Juncus capitatus, Wieg.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lugula campestris, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Cyperus elegantulus, Steud.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> ingratus,
+Kth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> adœnsis,
+Hoch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kyllingia macrocephala</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Isolepis capillaris, R. and S.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-10,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> schœnoides,
+Kth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">200</td>
+<td>Carex cruciata, var?</td>
+<td class="tdr">St. T. <span class="blank">&nbsp;</span>?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Wahlenbergiana,
+Boott.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Boryana,
+Schk.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,500-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Æthiopica,
+Schk.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Echinochlœ,
+Kunth.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Panicum Hochstetteri, Steud.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span><span class=
+"word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> acrotrichum, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> monticolum, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> pusillum, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Isachne refracta, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">210</td>
+<td>Pennisetum riparioides, Hoch.?</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Vilfa montana, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Deyeuxia Mannii, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-13,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Microchloa setacea, Br.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Deschampsia cæspitosa, P. B.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 9-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aira caryophyllea, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> pictigluma,
+Steud.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 9-13,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Avena lachnantha, Hoch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. F. 7-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced5">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Neesii,
+Steud.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Loudetia elegans, Hoch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">220</td>
+<td>Danthonia streblochæte, H.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Poa nemoralis, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kœleria cristata, Pers.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8-12,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Vulpia bromoides, Pal.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Festuca Simensis, Hoch.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> gigantea,
+Vill.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced7">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Schimperiana,
+A. R.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 8-13,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tripogon major, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bromus scabridus, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Brachypodium sylvaticum, Pal.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">230</td>
+<td>Andropogon distachyus, L.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> brachyatherus,
+Hoch.?</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Mannii, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,500-9,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Smithianus, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> pusillus, n.
+sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">235</td>
+<td>Arundinella elegantula, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 6-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<h3><span class="sc">Filices</span>.</h3>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t276">
+<tr>
+<td>Gleichenia dichotoma</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. from 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cyathea, n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">St. T. F. C.?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Adiantum Æthiopicum</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lonchitis glabra</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. C. F. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hypolepis pteridioides</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span>Cheilanthes
+farinosa</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pellæa hirsuta</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pteris quadri-aurita</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> flabellata</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced6">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> aquilina</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Asplenium anisophyllum</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> erectum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> monanthum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> protensum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Serra</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> furcatum,
+var.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+Adiantum-nigrum</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+Abyssinicum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+brachypterum</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+Filix-fœmina</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+aspidioides</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Aspidium aculeatum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nephrodium crini-bulbon</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. C. 4-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> filix-mas</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. 6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> inæquale</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 7-10,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nephrolepis tuberosa</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. C. 4-5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Polypodium villosissimum</td>
+<td class="tdr">St. T. 6,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> rugulosum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced9">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> n. sp.</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+oppositifolium</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pleopeltis lanceolata</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced10">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> nuda</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. F. 3-5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gymnogramme Javanica</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Totta</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 1-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span>
+lanceolata</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 3-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Elaphoglossum hybridum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 4-8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced13">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> splendens</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. C. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Acrostichum sorbifolium</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 5-7,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ophioglossum reticulatum</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 10,500</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lycopodium crassum</td>
+<td class="tdr">C. 1-5,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Selaginella, sp.?</td>
+<td class="tdr">F. 8,000</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced11">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> sp.?</td>
+<td class="tdr">S. T. 5,000</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span><a id=
+"app4"></a>APPENDIX IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch4"><span class="sc">Notes</span> on certain
+<span class="sc">Mammalia, Birds, Snakes</span>, and <span class=
+"sc">Landshells</span> collected on <span class="sc">Camaroons
+Mountains</span>, by Captain <span class="sc">Burton</span>, H.M.
+Consul, Fernando Po. By Dr. G. R. <span class="sc">Gray</span>, and
+Dr. <span class="sc">Wm. Baird</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center">(Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London,
+1862, p. 180.)</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Crocidura Morio</i>, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Uniform rather brownish black, rather paler and
+browner beneath. Teeth white. Feet very slender, weak. Tail nearly
+as long as the body and head, very slender, annulated, covered with
+very short closely adpressed hair.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Length of body and head, dry, 2¾ inches; tail, dry,
+2 inches.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">‘<em>Mole</em> from Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet
+above the level of the sea, January 1862.’</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Sciurus Isabella</i>, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Yellowish brown, minutely grizzled, with four broad
+dorsal streaks—the two central from the crown of the head to the
+base of the tail, the side ones from the shoulder only; the
+underside whitish grey. Tail slightly annulated.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Length of body and head 7 inches; tail 5
+inches.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">‘<em>Squirrel</em> from the Camaroons Mountains,
+7000 feet above the level of the sea, January 1862.’</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">I have great pleasure in naming this beautiful new
+species after Mrs. Isabel Burton,—her husband, the discoverer of
+it, having requested that any novelty that might be in the list
+should be so named.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_279">[279]</span><i>Anomalurus Beecroftii</i>, Fraser.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">‘A <em>Flying Squirrel</em>, shot in the Camaroons
+Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of the sea. Colour of the eyes
+dark grey. January 18, 1862.’</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Mus Maura</i>, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Fur very soft and silky; above black, slightly
+marked with brown from the minute brown tips of the hairs; beneath
+whitish—the hair of the underside black, white-tipped. Teeth very
+narrow, orange. Ears rounded, moderate. Sides of the nose and edge
+of the orbits black. Eyes covered with very short close-pressed
+hairs. Tail very long, slender, closely annulated with very
+slender, very short adpressed hair.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Length of body and head 4½ inches; tail 5 inches;
+hind foot very nearly 1 inch.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">‘Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above the level of
+the sea.’</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Euryotis Irrorata</i>, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">‘Rat from the Camaroons Mountains, 7000 feet above
+the level of the sea. January 1862.’</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">I am not certain about this species until I can
+compare the skull with those of the other species of the genus from
+Africa, as they are all very similar externally.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">With these animals was sent the skin of a
+Chimpanzee without its skull, but with the bones of the hand and
+feet enclosed in the skin. This skin differs from all the other
+specimens of this species which I have seen, in being covered with
+much more abundant and softer fur, and in the fur of the back being
+of a brown colour from the large brown tips to the blackish hair.
+It would seem to indicate a distinct variety or species, which may
+be designated, until we receive better specimens and more
+particulars, <i>Troglodytes vellerosus</i>.</p>
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span><span class=
+"sc">Descriptions of a few West-African Birds.<br>
+By Dr. G. R. Gray</span>.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">(From the ‘Annals and Magazine of Natural
+History’ for Dec. 1862.)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width4">
+
+<p class="center"><em>To the Editors of the ‘Annals of Natural
+History.’</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Gentlemen</span>,</p>
+
+<p>The following descriptions of a few birds, which appear new to
+the fauna of West Africa, may interest some of your readers. They
+were collected on the Camaroons Mountains, at an elevation of 7000
+feet above the level of the sea. They were sent to Mrs. Isabel
+Burton, the estimable lady of the distinguished traveller and
+Consul, Capt. Burton, and kindly presented by her to the British
+Museum.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Pratincola Salax</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2"><i>Pratincola salax</i>, Verr., Rev. et Mag. de
+Zool. 1851, p. 307.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Cossypha Isabellæ</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Head black, with a shining white mark between the
+nostril and the middle above the eye; back olivaceous-black; wings
+black, each feather margined with olivaceous; beneath the body
+rufous-buff, deeper on the breast; rump and outer tail-feathers
+deep rufous, with the tips of the second, third, and fourth
+feathers, and tip and outer margin of the first feather, black; the
+four middle feathers black, with the outer margin of the fifth near
+the base deep rufous.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Total length, 6″; wings 2″ 11‴; tarsi, 13‴; bill
+from gape, 9‴.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">This bird is named in compliment to Mrs. Isabel
+Burton.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Zosterops (Speirops) melanocephalus</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Mouse-colour, washed with olivaceous; head sooty
+black, with a spot on each side between the nostril and
+eye;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span> mentum and
+under wing-coverts white; beneath the body pale obscure grey,
+tinged with olivaceous; quills and tail fuscous-black, the former
+margined outwardly with grey. Bill and feet whitish
+horn-colour.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Total length, 4″ 9‴; wings, 2″ 5‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill
+from gape, 7‴.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Trichophorus tephrolæmus</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Yellowish-olive; head and throat slate-colour,
+darker on the head; abdomen yellow; breast, sides, and under
+tail-coverts olivaceous-yellow; quills fuscous-black, with outer
+webs olivaceous, the inner web margined near the base with buff;
+tail dull olivaceous, the end of the outer feather slightly tipped
+with yellow; bill black; feet plumbeous.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Total length, 7″ 6‴; wings, 3″ 3‴; tarsi, 10‴; bill
+from gape, 10‴.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Closely allied to <i>Trichophorus canicapillus</i>,
+Hartl.; but the throat is pale ash-colour.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Euplectes phœnicomerus</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Black; rump and wing-coverts pale clear yellow;
+under wing-coverts pale rufous-white; thighs pale brown.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Like <i>E. xanthomelas</i>; but the yellow on the
+rump and wings is paler, and the thighs are pale brown instead of
+black.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Total length, 5″ 3‴; wings, 2″ 10‴; tarsi, 11‴;
+bill from gape, 7½‴.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Ligurnus<a id="FNanchor_151"></a><a href=
+"#Footnote_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a> olivaceus</i>,
+Hartl.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2"><i>Coccothraustes olivaceus</i>, Fras., Proc. Z. S.
+1842, p. 144.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Adult male yellowish-olivaceous; head and throat
+deep black; sides and a narrow band round the neck, rump,
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> beneath the
+body bright orange-yellow; quills black, with the tertials and
+larger wing-coverts margined outwardly with bright yellow, and the
+quills inwardly with white; tail olivaceous-green, with each
+feather margined on the sides and tip with bright yellow; bill
+orange; feet pale.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">The <em>female</em> agrees with Mr. Fraser’s
+typical specimen, said to have been obtained at Fernando Po, and
+which is now deposited in the British Museum. It is figured in the
+‘Zoologica Typica,’ pl. 47, by Mr. Fraser.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2"><em>Young.</em>—Dull olivaceous-green; beneath the
+body dull olivaceous-yellow; bill and feet blackish
+lead-colour.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Strobilophaga Burtoni</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Fuscous, varied with pale olivaceous on the sides
+of the plumes; wing-coverts fuscous-black, tipped with white;
+quills and tail fuscous-black, margined narrowly with yellow;
+abdomen obscure white, spotted with fuscous-black down the shaft of
+some of the feathers; upper mandible horn-colour, lower mandible
+white; feet plumbeous.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Total length, 7″; wings, 3″ 6‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill
+from gape, 8‴.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">The formation of this bird agrees in every respect
+with the genus <i>Pinicola</i> or <i>Strobilophaga</i>. A species
+of this genus has not hitherto been recorded as found in
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">To these may be added the</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Cosmetornis Burtoni</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">It is very similar to the <i>Cosmetornis
+vexillarius</i> (Gould), G. R. Gr., but differs in the white spot
+at the base of each quill being narrower, while the white at the
+tip of the second, third, fourth, and fifth quills is more
+prominent and slightly mottled with rufous on the outer web; the
+first quill longer than the second, fuscous-black, and partly
+margined with rufous on the outer webs; the sixth feather is rather
+longer than the fifth, the seventh rather longer<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span> than the latter; both are
+fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale rufous, having the bases
+of the inner webs white; the eighth is much longer than the first
+quill, and fuscous-black, slightly mottled with pale rufous, the
+base of the inner web white or pale rufous; the ninth feather (or,
+as it has been termed, ‘standard feather’) is the longest of all,
+measuring more than 17 in.; it is white at the base of both inner
+and outer webs, but passing into pale rufous, or rufous-white
+mottled with black, on the outer web, while the inner is only
+rufous-white for its entire length from the basal white.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">The specimen is in an imperfect state, and only
+sufficient to afford the above description so as to distinguish it
+from the previously known species. The British Museum is indebted
+to the liberality of Capt. Burton, H.M. Consul, who has just sent
+it with other zoological specimens, all marked as from Fernando Po,
+and after whom I have the pleasure of naming this interesting
+bird.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">Major Burton has also sent to the British
+Museum a new kind of viper (<i>viperidæ</i>). It is probably
+scarce, as only a single specimen was sent in the collection.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Gunther has thus described it in the <em>An. and Mag. N.
+Hist.</em> 1863, 25, and intends to give a figure of it in the
+Proceedings of the Zoological Society.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><i>Pœcilostolus</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Head thick, broad, covered with strongly keeled
+scales; body compressed; tail prehensile, subcaudal shields.
+Entire.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">This genus differs from <i>Echis</i> in its
+compressed body, prehensile tail, and bright colours. While
+<i>Echis</i> is confined to dry sandy plains, <i>Pœcilostolus</i>
+inhabits trees and bushes. <i>Vipera chlorœchis Schegel</i>
+probably belongs to the same genus.</p>
+
+<p class="spec"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_284">[284]</span><i>Pœcilostolus Burtoni</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Scales strongly keeled, in nineteen rows; upper row
+nine, none of which enter the orbit; rostral shield very low,
+linear, with other scale-like shields above. Entirely bright
+yellow, single scales green.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2"><em>Inhab.</em> Camaroons country.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width15">
+
+<h3><span class="sc">Descriptions of two Species of Shells from
+Camaroons Mountains. By Wm. Baird</span>.</h3>
+
+<p class="spec">1. <i>Achatina Isabel</i>, Baird, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Testa cylindracea, fulva, minute undulato-striata
+et parum decussata, anfractibus octo, ultima tumida, dimidiam totæ
+testæ æquante, suturis impressis, apertura semilunari, parva.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Longitudo, 1⅓ unc.—Latitudo maxima, ½ unc.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa
+Occidentali.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">This shell is covered with an epidermis of a dark
+fulvous colour, and its surface is marked by numerous fine
+longitudinal striæ, which are most distinct near the suture, are
+waved and impressed, while at the same time several indistinct
+transverse lines run across them, giving a somewhat decussated
+appearance. The whirls are eight in number, the apical ones blunt,
+the last tumid and about half the length of the whole shell. The
+outer lip is thin, and the interior of the semilunar aperture
+somewhat purplish. The sutures are distinct, and rather deeply
+impressed.</p>
+
+<p class="spec">2. <i>Achatina montana</i>, Baird, sp. nov.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Testa parva, cylindracea, gracili, olivacea,
+nitida, prope suturas undulato-striata, anfractibus octo, ultimo
+tertiam partem testæ æquante, suturis impressis, apertura
+semilunari, parva.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_285">[285]</span>Longitudo, lin. 13.—Lat. max. lin. 3½.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">Habitat, Montes Camaroons dictæ, in Africa
+Occidentali.</p>
+
+<p class="pad2">This species of Achatina is much more slender and
+smoother than the preceding, and is of a darker colour. The apex is
+blunt, and the last whirl is much less tumid than the corresponding
+whirl of <i>A. Isabel</i>, and is shorter, being only about
+one-third the length of the shell. The surface is striated, but the
+striæ are scarcely perceptible except near the sutures, which are
+well marked and impressed.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftapp4">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151"><span class=
+"label">[151]</span></a><i>Ligurnus rufobrunneus</i>.—Rufous-brown,
+slightly darker along the shaft of each feather; wings and tail
+dull brown, margined with rufous-brown; beneath the body much
+paler, varied in some places with darker; bill and feet
+horn-colour.</p>
+
+<p>Length, 6″; wings, 3″ 5‴; tarsi, 9‴; bill, from gape, 7‴.</p>
+
+<p>This bird has been many years in the collection of the British
+Museum. It was brought to this country from Western Africa by Capt.
+(now Major-General) Sabine, R.A., and was presented by him to that
+institution.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span><a id=
+"app5"></a>APPENDIX V.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch1"><span class="sc">Reports and Letters touching Ambas
+Bay</span>.</p>
+
+<h3>No. 1.</h3>
+
+<p class="right less pad-right2">59 Fenchurch Street, August 15,
+1856.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">My Lord</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="ind3">I take the liberty of enclosing a memorandum on the
+High Land of Camaroons, the only position on the West Coast of
+Africa where immunity from tropical fever can be attained.</p>
+
+<p>The great change that the suppression of the slave trade will
+make in our commercial relations with the Coast of Africa, adds
+greatly to the value of this position, as we have no port from
+Sierra Leone to the Cape, where, in case of war, a British vessel
+could find protection.</p>
+
+<p>At present several British merchants have formed establishments
+at Fernando Po, as depôts for their trade with the mainland; but
+they are merely on sufferance, as the Spanish Government might at
+any time, by enforcing their tariff, render it impossible for them
+to continue.</p>
+
+<p>I have no doubt that, if the British flag were hoisted at
+Amboises, it would, in a few years, be the Singapore of Western
+Africa from its position and climate.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right6">I have, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2"><span class="word-spaced8">(Signed)
+M.</span> <span class="sc">Laird</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="nind less">The Right Hon. the Earl Grey.</p>
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span>No. 2.</h3>
+
+<p class="hang1"><em>Memorandum on the High Land of Camaroons, in
+the Bight of Biafra, as a site for a European Settlement, above the
+level of Tropical Fever.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">1. The physical characteristic of the West
+Coast of Africa, and the principal cause of its unhealthiness to
+Europeans, is its slight elevation above the level of the sea. From
+the range of the Atlas to the Cape of Good Hope, a distance of
+nearly 6000 miles, with the exception of the high land of
+Camaroons, there is no land of sufficient elevation to secure
+immunity from the fatal African fever.</p>
+
+<p>2. The high land of the Camaroons is situated at the extreme
+eastern point of the Gulf of Guinea, in longitude 8° 50′ E. and
+latitude 4° N., bounded on the W. by the Rio del Rey, and on the E.
+by the Camaroons River. The highest peak has an elevation of 13,700
+feet; the Rumli and Qua mountains of great height are visible to
+the N., but no measurement of their elevation has yet been made:
+they all form apparently part of one great mountain-range
+stretching into the interior.</p>
+
+<p>3. At the foot of the mountain of Camaroons, which abuts
+abruptly upon the sea, is the well-sheltered harbour of Amboises,
+capable of receiving the largest vessels, open to the sea-breeze,
+sheltered on the land side by nearly perpendicular cliffs of
+considerable height, and capable of being made a most complete
+naval station. The harbour was discovered in 1833, and surveyed by
+Captain Wm. Allen, R.N., of H.M.’s S.S. ‘Wilberforce,’ in 1842. A
+full description of it, with views of the surrounding scenery, is
+given in Captain Allen’s published narrative of the Niger
+Expedition of 1841. The land rises from the cliffs which form the
+landward side of the<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_288">[288]</span> harbour, and attains an elevation of
+upwards of 5000 feet within five miles of it.</p>
+
+<p>4. This is the only point upon the West Coast of Africa, N. of
+the Cape Colony, where a European settlement could be formed above
+the fever-level, which is presumed to be 4000 feet above the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p>Its advantages are:—A good open harbour, accessible at all times
+to ships of the largest class, and easily descended.</p>
+
+<p>A rapid ascent to a temperate climate, where tropical fever
+could not propagate itself.</p>
+
+<p>A small and peaceable native population, confined to the low
+grounds.</p>
+
+<p>A central position for all the trading ports from Whydah to
+Camaroons, being within 100 miles of the Niger, Bonny, and Calabar
+Rivers, where the bulk of the palm-oil trade is carried on.</p>
+
+<p>In case of war, a settlement at this point would command the
+embouchures of all the rivers in the Bight of Biafra, and be a key
+to the only entrance into the continent that seems practicable by
+land.</p>
+
+<p>5. From the twentieth parallel of south latitude to ten north,
+and for an average breadth of 25° of longitude, covering a space of
+nearly 3,000,000 square miles, lies the <em>terra incognita</em> of
+Africa: to the modern as well as to the ancient world, the sources
+of the Nile, the Sharry, and the Congo, and the countries which for
+centuries have given out their people as slaves, are unknown; the
+deadly climate of the low ground has proved the impassable barrier
+to discovery.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible that, from Camaroons, an expedition might reach
+in safety the elevated plateaus of Central Africa, and fill up the
+void that now appears in maps.</p>
+
+<p>6. From the fifth parallel of north latitude to the Sahara and
+the plateau of Abyssinia in the east, the depression of<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> the African continent is very
+remarkable. The Niger, with its course of 3500 miles, is only 1600
+feet at its source above the level of the sea, and no travellers
+have recorded any mountains or even hills of considerable
+elevation; the highest seen on the Niger did not exceed 1500
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>South of the fifth parallel a very different state of things
+exists, and there is strong presumptive evidence that a continuous
+tract of elevated land runs from Camaroons to the Indian Ocean,
+extending S. to the limits of Cape Colony. The late discoveries
+made by travellers from the Cape prove that, as far as the
+twentieth parallel, Europeans are perfectly safe in the centre of
+the continent, while descending on the same parallel to the coast
+is eminently dangerous. The discovery of a snowy range, if correct,
+on the East Coast, close to the Equator, a latitude at which the
+limit of perpetual snow exceeds 18,000 feet, and the high land
+which abuts upon the Atlantic at Camaroons, all tend to show that
+the southern division of the continent will, when explored, offer a
+marked contrast in its physical development to the northern, and
+probably contains vast stores of mineral wealth. Copper ore finds
+its way in small quantities now to the coast.</p>
+
+<p>7. It is not to be expected that Europeans would settle at
+Camaroons to grow tropical produce—they will naturally prefer a
+healthy tropical country for that purpose; nor will Africans. The
+climate of the low ground does not injure them. Its advantages will
+be appreciated by the merchant, who could transact his business at
+the port during the day, and sleep in pure air at night. This, with
+its safe harbour, will make it the centre of a great trade, and, by
+the naval service, who could always command a temperate climate for
+their invalids, without leaving the station. A hospital above the
+fever-level would be the means of saving many valuable lives
+annually.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span>The great value
+of this position to this country is undoubtedly its extraordinary
+adaptation for a penal settlement. Supposing, by that labour, a
+good road made to the superior land from the port, European
+prisoners might be kept there in perfect security; any attempt to
+escape would be defeated by the climate. They would displace no
+native population, for that is confined to the low ground. They
+would be completely isolated, and governed with greater ease than
+convict stations surrounded by white settlers. Employment could be
+found to any extent in cutting timber, making roads, and raising
+their own provisions.</p>
+
+<p>As long as they remained in the high land they would be safe;
+the penalty for leaving it would be levied by nature herself.
+Ground could be allotted to the well behaved, and the great source
+of depravity would be removed by allowing intermarriage with the
+native women. A mixed race would be the result, which experience
+has found to be the most efficient way of improving mankind. As
+long as transportation continues, and the difficulty of finding a
+practical substitute for it is generally acknowledged, there is no
+part of the world where a convict can be placed with less injury to
+his fellow-creatures, and with greater chance of reformation for
+himself.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width15">
+
+<h3>No. 3.</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><em>Rev. Mr. Saker to Mr. Consul Hutchison.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="right less pad-right2">Clarence, Fernando Po, June 30,
+1858.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Sir</span>,</p>
+
+<p class="ind3">The bay of Amboises we entered at 11 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span>, at its N.E. angle; we found an interior bay
+hidden from a great part of the principal anchorage, and its
+entrance not distinguished<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_291">[291]</span> without a very near approach. The heavy
+headland that defends the great bay from S.W. storms, continues of
+the same elevation, and runs into the bay, forming its S.E. side,
+and terminates in a precipitous hill, shutting in the inner bay.
+Rocks run out from this point in the line of high land, and extend
+many yards towards the mainland, thereby narrowing the entrance to
+the bay.</p>
+
+<p>On these rocks the surf beats heavily at times. On the mainland,
+too, a line of rocks extends in a direction to meet those spoken of
+above, thereby narrowing the entrance still more. These last rocks
+form a natural pier, on which may be built at small cost a platform
+for landing goods, &amp;c. On the inner side of the pier,
+coal-ships and steam-vessels may be brought, and discharge or
+receive coal without delay or damage. Coals may be conveyed from
+the pier in carriages on an iron tramway into the sheds on the
+beach. The clear entrance to this inner bay is about half a mile
+wide, with five and six fathoms water. The shores of this bay are
+one continued line of sand, varying at low water from 50 to 100
+yards in width, covered entirely with a tide which rises 9 feet on
+full and change. The water lies placid on the beach, and boats and
+small vessels can be brought to it at all seasons for examination
+and repair. This beach is covered by a level bank of two miles’
+extent, on which may be built stores for coal and merchandize,
+sheds for artificers of all sorts, and slips for boatbuilding,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The rocky pier forms the N.W. end of this bay, and from that
+point begins the N.E. shore of the greater bay, rocky and elevated.
+Beginning at the pier-end, a low table-land extends along the
+beach. Here can be built a town of large extent, open to the pure
+sea-breeze by day, and the mountain-air at night. This table-land
+is broken, at 330 yards from the pier, by a stream of pure water
+from the mountains,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span>
+here finding its outlet into the sea. Two other streams of fresh
+water empty themselves in the inner bay, but the one first named
+might be conveyed by pipe to the pier-head.</p>
+
+<p>A harbour equal to Amboises Bay, a locality so healthy, and a
+position for opening a trade with the interior tribes on this
+mountain-range of Central Africa, does not exist. The supposed want
+of a safe landing has alone prevented it being brought into
+notice.</p>
+
+<p>In this place we seek to establish a home for our friends, who
+are, in effect, expelled from Clarence. There are great
+difficulties in the way, but with the aid of our friends in
+England, especially with the countenance and support of our
+Government, we shall overcome them all. The work before us, besides
+forming a home for our friends, is the following:—To establish at
+the foot of the mountain of Camaroons an English colony, to be the
+foundation of an English city. To make that colony the centre of
+religious enlightenment, civilization, and commerce, to be a
+barrier to slavery, oppression, and cruelty. To succeed we need
+first the lawful possession of a tract of land. This I have limited
+to our immediate wants; but we need more for expansion and
+security. We need that the whole mountain seaboard be the lawful
+possession of the British crown.</p>
+
+<p>Her Majesty is now the acknowledged sovereign, but an honourable
+purchase from the present chief, who has been raised to authority
+by English officers, would prevent all future disputes.</p>
+
+<p>This would be readily effected, and the purchase of an
+uninhabited wilderness, as the greater portion is, would be but a
+trifle. We need that H.M.’s Government sanction and sustain the
+effort by making this English colony and bay their local depôt. And
+the naval officers would be but too<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_293">[293]</span> glad to make this exchange; as a
+sanitarium, and as a point of supply of provisions, Clarence cannot
+be compared to it.</p>
+
+<p>The countenance and support of H.M.’s Government is so essential
+that, without it, I fear we shall fail; and I do trust that the
+objects we seek to accomplish will commend this effort to the
+favourable notice of H.M.’s Government and the Admiralty.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right8">I have, &amp;c.,</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2"><span class="word-spaced8">(Signed)
+<span class="sc">Alfred</span></span> <span class=
+"sc">Saker</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span><a id=
+"app6"></a>APPENDIX VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch4"><span class="sc">Observations of Temperature below
+and upon the Camaroons Mountains, kept by M. Gustav Mann,
+Government Botanist, West Africa, and Selim Aga, between the 6th
+December, 1861, and the 24th February</span>, 1862.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">The instruments used were two Bath
+Thermometers, Negretti and Zambra, London (patent, Nos. 1064 and
+1063, graduated to 110° and 180° Fah.), suspended near camp with a
+south-westerly aspect: one,—the first of the double observation—in
+the sun; the other, the second, in the shade; both 3½ feet above
+the ground. The maximum and minimum were Nos. 2697 and 1764 of
+Messrs. Negretti and Zambra. In the minimum the alcohol was at
+first red; it presently paled to a dull straw yellow. In the
+remarks I have used a small pocket thermometer (Fah.) by Messrs.
+Cary, London.</p>
+
+<table id="t294">
+<tr>
+<td>The correction for No. 1064 (sun therm.) is</td>
+<td>at 32° − 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 42° − 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 52° − 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 62° + 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 72° + 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 82° correct.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 92° − 0·2</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The correction for No. 1063 (shade therm.) is</td>
+<td>at 32° − 0·1</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 42° − 0·4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 52° − 0·5</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 62° correct.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 72° − 0·4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 82° − 0·4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc word-spacedtab1">„ „</td>
+<td>at 92° − 0·4</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">The maximum and minimum are correct.</p>
+
+<table class="borders bd-ext" id="t295">
+<tr>
+<th><span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span><span class=
+"sc">Date.</span>
+</th>
+<th colspan="3">6 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></th>
+<th colspan="2"><span class="sc">Noon.</span>
+</th>
+<th colspan="3">6 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></th>
+<th><span class="sc">Wind.</span>
+</th>
+<th colspan="2"><span class="sc">Max. Self Regist.</span>
+</th>
+<th colspan="2"><span class="sc">Min. Self Regist.</span>
+</th>
+<th><span class="sc">Remarks.</span>
+</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="width5">Dec. 61.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right width-brace1">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">°</td>
+<td class="tdr col1">′</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">°</td>
+<td class="tdr col1">′</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">°</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">′</td>
+<td class="width-brace1">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">°</td>
+<td class="tdr col1">′</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right col1">°</td>
+<td class="tdr col1">′</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">6</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">84</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">84</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">M. Mann landed at
+Victoria. Base of the mountain. Cloudy day, strong sea-breeze.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">96</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">77</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">7</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">86</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">71</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Do.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">104</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">8</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">86</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Do.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">105</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">81</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">9</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">84</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">85</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Warm and sunny.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">10</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">84</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">82</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">85</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">67</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Do.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">95</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">82</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">11</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">83</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">82</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">86</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">70</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Do. Heavy thunderstorm,
+without wind, at night</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">94</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">82</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">12</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">85</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">70</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">First half of day cloudy,
+then clear.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">98</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">81</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">13</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At Bosumbo. Warm, clear
+day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">14</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">78</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">79</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">66</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At ditto. Rain.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">15</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">65</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At Mapanya. Sunny
+day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">16</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">76</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">59</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At do. Clear and
+sunny.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">78</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">17</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">On mountain. Hazy, smoky,
+and misty.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">18</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2">Dies non.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">On ditto. Cloudy as usual. At Victoria fine,
+clear, and warm.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">19</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">77</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Sea-breeze.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Began by march up the
+mountain to Mapanya. Clear and hot.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a id="FNanchor_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152"
+class="fnanchor">[152]</a>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_296">[296]</span>20</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At Mapanya. Fine clear
+day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">21</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">78</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Left Mapanya; reached
+Ridge Camp. Hot day; cold night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">76</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">22</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">40</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">Ascended hill. At 8·30 Therm. 80°. Wet day.
+Cold wind from E. At 4·45 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Therm.
+60°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">23</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">At 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> mist from
+S.W., Ther. 68°. At 10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, in sun, 92°;
+shade, 85°. At 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, cloud and wind,
+72°. At noon, sun and cloud, 84°. At 1 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, misty, in sun 91°. At 4 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span>, in the forest, 66°. Night very pleasant.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">24</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N. & N.E. Strong.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cloud at 8 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> On Mount Helen, Therm. at 8·30 A.M., 57° 5′-58°
+5′, a few feet below. At 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, in camp,
+Therm. 66°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Very fine day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">26</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At 2 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> very thick mist from W. like rain. Carried off by
+N.E. wind.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">27</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At 5·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> Therm. 48°, very little dew. On Mount Isabel at 5
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span>, 40°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">28</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At 3 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> few drops of rain. Wet and misty day. At night
+Venus veiled. Cold night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">29</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Misty morn and day.
+Threatened rain, none came. Loud thunder at night from W. and S.,
+but below gusts of wind. Cold at times.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">30</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N., W. & E.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">63</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cold, raw morning, 54° at
+8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Raw and misty till noon, then hot
+sun. Heavy cloud in W.; kind of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_297">[297]</span> Harmattan day. Wind from all quarters.
+Clouds torn to pieces.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">31</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">E.S. & S.W.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Very cold wind all
+night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">Jan. 62.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">1</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">66</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cold morning. Normal day.
+Misty day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">2</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">S.W. & N.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Thunder in morn. Day
+cool, misty and still. Even. fine, warm, and windless.<a id=
+"FNanchor_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153" class=
+"fnanchor">[153]</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">Hazy morn. Dry hazy noon. At 2 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> misty, and a few drops of rain. Warm and clear at
+3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Misty even. This and the next day’s
+obs. are with 1064 Therm. placed in sun.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">1 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">Misty morn. and even. Clear noon.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">5</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cool, clear morn. Day
+misty. Fine and windless evening. At 3·40 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> little rain from W.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">6</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">5</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">45</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Fine, clear day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">7</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Day changing. Sun and
+mist alternately. Clouds heavy in W. From 3 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> till night clear and light. Night cold.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">8</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">83</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Fine clear morn. Raw
+cloudy day. In afternoon hot sun. Beautiful even.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">9</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Clear morn. Heavy mist.
+At 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> few drops of rain (2nd time).
+Raw and cold. Weather seems breaking.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">10</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">74</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">41</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">At 5·30 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> 47°. Heavy thunder and lightning at night almost
+overhead. Morn. clear. Mist at 10. All night thunder and clouds
+from S.W. came overhead.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">68</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_298">[298]</span>5·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdc">6·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">11</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">No wind.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">Morn. cool and clear. Mist at 10 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> Thunder and lightning in S.W. At 4 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> mild and pleasant. Cold night. Therm. 1064.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">12</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Land-breeze N.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Very fine still morn.
+Thunder below. Cold mists at 10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> till
+3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>; warmer after noon. Cold, clear
+night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">13</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Splendid morning. Cool,
+clear, and still. Raw mist 11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> to 2
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Still warm even.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">47</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">14</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn hazy and still. Mist
+10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> to 4 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span>
+At noon few drops of rain. Fine clear even. Bright stars.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">15</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.W. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">N. wind about dawn; W.
+till 10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span>, then S.E. sea-breeze.
+Meridian obs. taken at 1 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Mist
+condensed by cold. Dull, but still even. Cold night; gusty near
+morn.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">16</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Misty day. Very calm in
+even. Fine night. Clear moon. Heavy dew.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">5 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">1·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">17</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59?</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Thunder in morn. Dull,
+misty day. In even. clouds. Stars obscured. Meridian obs. at 1·30
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">18</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. Thun., dry and
+fine. Wind S.W. at 8 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Fine clear view
+of sea at 5·45 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Leaves falling. Swarms
+of swifts. Hawks cry at night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">5 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">1·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">19</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">all round compass.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">First heavy storm. See
+diary. Meridional observation at 1·30 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_299">[299]</span>20</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">S.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Fine clear morn. Ditto
+day. Sharp cold S.E. wind till night. At 4 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> hot sun. Little mist. Clear moon. Bees swarming
+from east to west.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">7 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">21</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. obs. at 7
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Fine, clear. Wind less. Italian
+weather. At 7 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> thunder from N.W. At 10
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> very heavy mist. 2 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> distant thunder clap from N.W. At 3 <span class=
+"sc2">P.M.</span> few drops of rain. Clearer in even. Night thunder
+from W. by N.W. Bees still swarming.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">22</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. etc.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Bad thunder storm. See
+diary. Snow seen from below mountains.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">5 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">45m. <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">23</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. obs. at 5
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Fine, clear, and cold till 10
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Then mist from every direction.
+Thunder westward, 3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Therm. on ground
+near Calvo Crater, in sun, 82°, when mist came over, 74°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">4 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">24</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">E. strong.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. obs. 4 <span class=
+"sc2">A.M.</span> Noon, 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Dull morn.
+Little Camaroons clearly seen. Heavy mist from below. Cold, and hot
+sun. Threatened rain, but none fell. Calm even. Heavy thunder at
+night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E. & S.W.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Clear morn. Misty day and
+even. Thunder and lightning below. Fine cool night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">5·30 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">26</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">W. & S.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Thunder all morn. Day
+misty and fine by turns. Clear even. Thunder and lightning at
+night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">2·30 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">27</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">43</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Slept on Mount Isabel.
+Morn. cold, dear. Mists at 10 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> Heavy
+clouds from E. At 4 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> therm. 45°.
+Rain-drops at 2 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Heavy dew. At 5·50
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> 45° and 44°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">78</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">43</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_300">[300]</span>11 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">28</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">39</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">41</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. and even. obs. in
+Isabel and Saker’s Camp. Noon on mountain. Dull red morn. Cold, and
+few clouds at sunrise. Slept at Saker’s Camp.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">40</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">41</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">29</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">39</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">42</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Hoar frost in morn. At 2
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> 37°. Grey and cold. Sun not visible
+till high up. Slept at Saker’s Camp.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">39</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">42</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">30</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">36</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Hoar frost on clothes. At
+2 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> 32° 50′. Bad thunder from S.W. A
+vile day, with rain and hail. Descended to Mann’s Spring. See
+diary. New moon, bad omen. M. Mann’s maximum on summit of Albert
+Crater, 55°., minimum 27°. At time of inspection 35°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">36</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">31</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Left Mann’s Spring, and
+began the descent. At sunrise next morning, therm. 46°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="15" class="tdc">I then left the mountain, and soon
+found myself in an atmosphere of 80° F.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4" class="sc bdless-right">M. Mann.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">Feb. 62.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">1</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Clear in morn. and noon.
+Even. very strong wind. Max. 71°. Min. 50°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">5</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">2</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. clear and still. 8
+<span class="sc2">A.M.</span> wind rose. Thunder. Clear afternoon.
+Max. 71°. Min. 48°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">57</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">3</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cloudy and warm. Max.
+71°. Min. 50°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">56</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">4</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Wind light. Sunny and
+cloudy by turns. Max. 69°. Min. 49°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">5</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Calm. Morn. and even.
+clear. Cloudy at midday. Max. 66°. Min. 48°.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_301">[301]</span>6</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">68</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Wind light. Distant
+thunder from sea. Cloudy and sunny day by turns.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">7</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">84</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">63</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Wind light. Sunny and
+cloudy by turns.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">72</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">1 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">8</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">61</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">63</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. clear and calm. Day
+and even. cloudy.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">9</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">68</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">48</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Strong wind. Cloudy.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">68</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">25</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">10</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Sunny and warm. Very
+pleasant. Even. clear. Thunderstorm and rain at night.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">58</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">11</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">59</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">54</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">N.E.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">67</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">75</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">49</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Foggy till 3·0
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Then two hours sun. After 5
+<span class="sc2">P.M.</span> sky covered.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">55</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">12</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">90</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Rain and calm in morn.
+Clear and calm day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">53</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">13</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">51</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">48</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Clear morn. Calm and
+covered sky in day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">52</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">14</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">all round.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">M. Mann travelled to
+Ridge Camp this day. At 5 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> heavy
+tornado. Cloudy and rainy day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">60</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">15</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">65</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">60</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Cloudy day. Dry at Ridge
+Camp.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">16</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">62</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">67</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">63</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Ridge Camp. Rain all
+day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">17</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">71</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">61</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Day warm and sunny.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">63</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">18</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Sea-breeze.</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2">63</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Descended to Victoria,
+where even. obs. taken. Day sunny and warm.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">64</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">81</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2">R.C.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">19</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Sea-breeze (strong.)</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">78</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">70</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Rainy day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">75</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">20</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">66</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">88</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">78</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">87</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">67</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Day sunny and cloudy.
+Warm and dry.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">67</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">87</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_302">[302]</span>30m. <span class="sc2">P.M.</span></td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">21</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">69</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">100</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">81</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Sea-breeze strong.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">90</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">69</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Sunny and warm.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">90</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">82</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">22</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">95</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">79</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">88</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr">50</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">72</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Morn. sunny. Afternoon
+cloudy.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">85</td>
+<td class="tdr">25</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">79</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">50</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left">23</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1 bd-left bdless-right">{</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">70</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">100</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">80</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc br-large1">}</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdc bd-left">Do.</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">90</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdr bd-left bdless-right">71</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="tdl hang1 bd-left">Day warm and sunny.
+Thunder in the mountains at noon. Cloudy for 1h. 30m.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">71</td>
+<td class="tdr">75</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">86</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">81</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr">24</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">74</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="bdless-right">
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bdless-right">73</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl hang1">M. Mann left Victoria on his way to
+Camaroons.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftapp6">
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152"><span class=
+"label">[152]</span></a>Our camp below Earthwork Crater was in a
+thorough draught, the top of the forest conducting the wind. The
+prevalent were the N.E., which is almost constant in the upper
+regions, and is in fact the land-breeze rushing from the cold hills
+to the sea. During the day we had S.W. or sea-breezes, which
+brought up clouds.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153"><span class=
+"label">[153]</span></a>M. Mann left on Jan. 2nd for the crater,
+taking his maximum and minimum thermometers. He returned the 4th
+Jan., and on the 10th Jan. he left for Victoria, returning on the
+25th Jan.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span><a id=
+"app7"></a>APPENDIX VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter iwdecor3">
+<figure><img alt="[Decoration]" src="images/decor3.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="sch1"><span class="sc">Hypsometrical Table of Stations
+between Victoria Bay and Camaroons Mountains</span>.</p>
+
+<p>M. <span class="sc">Mann’s</span> instrument is a B. P. (Fah.)
+by Negretti and Zambra (no number). At sea-level, before starting,
+his readings were:—</p>
+
+<table class="bd-collapse" id="t303">
+<tr>
+<td>212°</td>
+<td>·4</td>
+<td class="brt width-brace1">
+</td>
+<td rowspan="5">Temperature 77° (Fah.).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>·5</td>
+<td class="liner">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>·4</td>
+<td class="liner">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>·3</td>
+<td class="liner">
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+<td>·3</td>
+<td class="brb">
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The mean was assumed at 212°·4.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening a series of five readings gave a mean of 212°·3.
+Temp. 88°·50 (Fah.).</p>
+
+<p>On return to Victoria Bay (Feb. 23rd) five readings gave a mean
+of 212°·1. Temp. 82°·50 (Fah.).</p>
+
+<p>The medium of M. Mann’s instrument was therefore assumed at 212°
++ ·3. The observations were corrected accordingly, and have been
+marked (M).</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Saker had a French aneroid. I, one by Messrs. Cary, Strand,
+London, an expensive and most carelessly made article, whose hand
+could not even be screwed round for correction.</p>
+
+<p>My B. P. was the zeometer, a new hypsometric apparatus made by
+Messrs. Casella, of 23 Hatton Garden, London. It answered
+tolerably, but, as has appeared, the cup was injured during the
+descent of the mountain on the 27th Dec. 1861, after which the
+glass tube was used in the ordinary way. Its observations are
+marked (B).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span>The average
+temperature has been assumed at 78°·5, and the calculations have
+been made by Mr. George, of the Royal Geographical Society.</p>
+
+<h3><span class="sc">Observations</span>.</h3>
+
+<table class="borders" id="t304">
+<tr>
+<th>Date.</th>
+<th>Station.</th>
+<th>Observation.</th>
+<th>Altitude.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">1861</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 14</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Bosumbo</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">210°·1 (M).<br>
+Temp. 71°.<br>
+Mean of two Obs.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">1055 feet.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 19</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Bosumbo</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29°·6 Aneroid.<br>
+Temp. 78°.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 15</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mapanya</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">28°·2 Aneroid.<br>
+Temp. 79°.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 15</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mapanya</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">207°·3 (M).<br>
+Temp. 66°. Morn.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">2610 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 15</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mapanya</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">207°·2 (M).<br>
+Temp. 73°. Even.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">2683 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 21</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Ridge Camp</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">27°·2 Aneroid.<br>
+Temp. 68°.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">1862</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Feb. 1</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Fern Gate</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">204° (B).<br>
+Temp. 80°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">4535 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">1861</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 23</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Black Crater</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">199° (M).<br>
+Temp. 63°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">7328 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 24</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mann’s Spring</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">198°·7 (M).<br>
+Temp. 58°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">7466 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 24</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mann’s Spring</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">199°·2 (M).<br>
+Temp. 63°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">7221 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 25</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Mann’s Spring</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">200° (B).<br>
+Temp. 65°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">6762 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">1862</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 27</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Foot of Mount Helen</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">198° (B).<br>
+Temp. 66°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">7932 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">1861</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 24</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Top of Mount Helen</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">195°·7 (M).<br>
+Mean of five Obs.<br>
+Temp. 58°·50.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">9223 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 24</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Top of Mount Helen</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">195°·4 (B).<br>
+Temp. 57°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">9383 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 27</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Below Earthwork Crater</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">24°·15 Aneroid.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Not worth<br>
+calculating.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Dec. 27</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Above Earthwork Crater .</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">23°·850 Aneroid.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Ditto.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_305">[305]</span>1862</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 28</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Crater of Mount Isabel</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">193°·9 (M).<br>
+Mean of five Read.<br>
+Temp. 50°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">10,187 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 28</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Summit of Mount Isabel</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">193°·4 (B).<br>
+Temp. 60°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">10,590 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 28</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Camp Saker</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">193° (B).<br>
+Temp. 48°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">10,595 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 28</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Foot of Victoria Mountain</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">193°·5 (B).<br>
+Temp. 60°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">10,530 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 30</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Foot of Mount Hooker</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">192°·7 (M).<br>
+Temp. 48°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">10,875 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 30</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Summit of Mount Hooker</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">191°·2 (M).<br>
+Temp. 45°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">11,725 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 14</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Victoria Crater</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">188°. Temp. 58°<br>
+Obs. by Mr. Saker.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">13,806 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 30</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Summit of Victoria Mountain</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">189°·7 (B).<br>
+Temp. 51°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">12,696 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 29</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Summit of Albert Crater</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">189°·5 (B).<br>
+Temp. 62°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">12,948 „</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc-top">Jan. 29</td>
+<td class="tdl-top">Highest Point of Albert Mountain</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">189°·2 (B).<br>
+Temp. 62°.</td>
+<td class="tdl-top word-spaced6">13,129 „</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>In assuming 78°·50 (Fah.) as the mean temperature at sea-level,
+I have been obliged, for want of other comparison, to adopt the
+mean of M. Mann’s observations.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Victoria Bay, he made, between the 6th and 12th
+of December, 1861, a series of thirteen maximum and minimum
+observations, whose mean is 79°.</p>
+
+<p>After returning to Victoria Bay, he made five maximum and six
+minimum observations between the 19th and the 24th February, and
+their mean is 78°.</p>
+
+<p>My friend Major Noeli, of the Spanish artillery, supplied me at
+Fernando Po with the following table. It will be seen that the mean
+of December, January, and February, 1859-60, are also 78°·50
+(Fah.).</p>
+
+<h3><span class="sc">Observations of Temperature by Major Noeli,
+H.C.M.’s Army, at Fernando Po</span>, 1859-1860.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">Observations taken at 6 a.m., 8 a.m., 10 a.m.,
+noon when possible, 3 p.m., 10 p.m.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Place:—Room facing N.E., and about 100 feet above
+sea-level.</p>
+
+<table class="borders" id="t306">
+<tr>
+<th rowspan="2">Date.</th>
+<th colspan="3">Thermometer.</th>
+<th>Barometer.</th>
+<th rowspan="2" class="bd-left">Remarks.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<th>Max.</th>
+<th>Min.</th>
+<th>Mean.</th>
+<th>Mean.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 width5">Sep. 1859.</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">81·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">69·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">75·44</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·66</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Only taken during last half month. Twelve
+days’ heavy rain. Frequent fresh breezes when there was no
+rain.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 word-spaced6">Oct. „</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">83·5</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">70·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">76·40</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·65</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Nine days’ rain. Sea-breezes when no
+rain.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 word-spaced6">Nov. „</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">85·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">70·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">78·05</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·61</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Sixteen days’ rain (less copious and
+shorter), chiefly in early morn. Five mild tornados. Frequent
+breezes.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 word-spaced6">Dec. „</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">86·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">69·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">78·90</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·59</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">9 <span class="sc2">A.M.</span> 26th.
+Tornado and rain. Another rainy day, fine drops. Frequent
+breezes.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">Jan. 1860.</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">86·5</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">67·5</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">77·87</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·59</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">One rainy day. Frequent breezes.
+Harmattan. Great heat on calm days.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 word-spaced6">Feb. „</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">88·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">69·0</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">78·73</td>
+<td class="tdc-top">29·54</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">One day’s rain. Various tornados.
+Sometimes no sea-breeze till 3 <span class="sc2">P.M.</span> Great
+heat. Therm. 88° only one day.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1 bt">Mean of 6<br>
+months.</td>
+<td class="tdc-top bt">85°</td>
+<td class="tdc-top bt">69°·1</td>
+<td class="tdc-top bt">77°·56</td>
+<td class="tdc-top bt">29·612</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">At Fernando Po the barometric wave is at its
+highest at 9·10 a.m. and 9·10 p.m., and at its lowest at 3·4 a.m.
+and 3·4 p.m.</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above2">THE END.</p>
+
+<p class="center small space-above2 spaced15">LONDON. PRINTED BY W.
+CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET<br>
+AND CHARING CROSS.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_v">v</a>, in Contents changed: "[Appendix]
+V." to: "IV.", and inserted "V. <span class="sc">Reports and
+Letters touching Ambas Bay</span> — 286"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, Changed: "to Dr. Baikei’s Niger
+expedition" to: "Baikie’s"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, Changed: "supplies from the
+mainand" to: "mainland"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, Changed: "<i>Mormida lucida
+Benthami</i>" to: "<i>Morinda</i>"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, Changed: "attire of the
+Fernadian Bube" to: "Fernandian"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, Changed: "a form now well-nigh
+obselete" to: "obsolete"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, Changed: "were ascepiadæ,
+gardeniaceæ" to: "asclepiadæ"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, Changed: "along a crater
+brenched on the S.E. side" to: "breached"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, Changed: "it was usless for
+me to speak" to: "useless"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, Changed: "a rule or law,
+called Diburnbe" to: "Dibumbe"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, Changed: "Sagnia Abyssinica,
+Hochst." to: "Sagina"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, Changed: "Senicula Europæa,
+L." to: "Sanicula"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, Changed: "[Lactuca]
+glanduligera, n. sp." to: "glandulifera"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, Changed: "Anisoraniphus
+hyperhæroides" to: "Anisoramphus hypochæroides"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, Changed: "[Carex] Echnochlœ,
+Kunth." to: "Echinochlœ"</li>
+
+<li>Page <a href="#Page_277">277</a>, Changed: "Selagenella" to:
+"Selaginella"</li>
+
+<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to
+the public domain.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79410 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
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+
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@@ -0,0 +1 @@
+[Project Gutenberg](https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook [#79410](https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/79410)